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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS 
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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
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Those marked with an asterisk (*) are illustrations. 


A. 


A BUTILON Boule de Nelge, 381 
Abutilons, 215, 601. 534 
os out flowers, 584 
growing lanky, 7, 24, 34 
In winter, 573 

* Acacia annate, cutting of, 180 
* Acacia, cutting, 180 
•Acacia false 5 
from seed, 573 
lophantha, 509 
Acacias, propagating, 573 
Acanthus latifoliua, 509 
Acanthuses, 433 

Achimenes and Gloxinias, 30,105, 235 
Aconitum japonicum, 356 
Adam's Needles. 258, 337 
.Ethionema grandiflora, 207 
•Aikanet, Indian, 28 
Allamandaa, 83 
•Alonsoa linifolia, 264 
AlpiDe garden. 49 

plants, protecting, 574 
Alyssums, propagating, 255 
Amarylllds. 20, 308 
Amaryllis Belladonna, 34 
Amaryllises, 30, 160, 405, 417, 535 
American Blackberries, 585 
American blight, 12 

and Gooseberry caterpillar, 389 
American garden, the, 115 
American plants, 115 
Ammonia, sulphate of, 89, 317 , 328, 340 
Ampelopsis Veitchi, 229 
and Ceanothus, 280 
for walls, 340 
•Anchusa italics, 28 
Andalusians, 25 
Andromeda japonic a, 265 
Anemone apennina, 207 
eoronaria,186, 226 
from seed, 208 
fulgens, 66 
japonica, 180 
•Anemone japonica, 245 
Anemone japonica and its varieties, 825 
Anemone japonica, forcing, 647 
Anemone nemorosa, 19 
scarlet, 26 
sulphur coloured, 18 
the wood, 19, 93 
Anemones, 93, 430 
soil for, 610 

•August, flowers of, 259 
Annuals, 226 

a few good greenhouse, 60 
Annuals and biennials, 3, 238 
Annuals and biennials in town gardens, 
267, 297 

Annuals and climbers. 128 
Annuals and perennials, 75 
Annuals, autumn^blooming, 297 

Digitized by VkjOO 


Annuals, autumn sowing of, 267 
Annuals and hardy plants, 147 
Antirrhinums, 243, 404 
Antirrhinums, culture of, 356 
Ants in the garden, 132, 152 
in beehives, 134 
in greenhouses, 160 
in Peach trees, 11 
Annual Chrysanthemums, 66 
Annuals for bouquets. 39 
for cutting, 108 
for mixed borders, 148 
for window boxes, 415 
for window gardening, 427 
greenhouse, 633 
list of hardy, 297 
notes on, 574 
on stones, 29 
ornamental, 248 
sowing, 610 

sowing and pricking nut, 52 
sowing under glass, 17 • 

suitable for baskets, 297 
tender, 74 
thinning, 164 
Aphides, 201 

Aphides and ladybirds, 204 
Aphides, destroying, 211 
Aphides, how they breed, 240 
Aphides, the Rose, 198 
Apiary, aspect for, 146 
Aponogeton distachyon, 194, 2C8 
Apples f&llincf off, 360 
Apples as wall trees, 327 
Apples for small gardens, 819 
Apples, pruning, 653 
Apple show, the great, 377 
Apple, the, in orchard and garden, 202 
Apple tree, a curious, 374 
Apple tree, blighting, 224 
•Apple tree branch, Mistletoe on, 612 
Apple tree cuttings, planting, 504 
Apple trees and red spider, 305 
Apple trees from cuttingB, 327, 410 
gralting, 122 
mildew on, 410 
moss covered, 410 
seedling, 410 
unhealthy, 374 
varieties of, 350 
when to plant, 350 
Apples, thinning and mulching, 122 
Apples, thinning, 199 
Apricots, 206 

Apricots and Cherries, 332 
Apricots, best, 199 
Apricots, pruning, 160 
•April flowers, 65 
Aquaria, 177 

Aquaria, management of, 353 
Aquarium, a bell glass, 330 
globe, 520, 646 
management of an, 330 
Aquatic and bog plants, 49 
Aralia Sicboldi, 424 



Araucarias, cutting back, 349 
manuring, 340, 348 
Ardhias, 636 
Arenaria baleaiica, 142 
Art in the garden, 119 
Artichokes, Globe, 431 
Artichokes, Jerusalem, 411 
Arum Lilies, 118, 221 
Arum Lily, 501, 684 
Arums after flowering, 98 
not flowering, 581 
Aseel fowls, 60 

Ash, the Mountain, in town gardens, 
348 

Asparagus, 605 

Asparagus and Tomatoes, forcing, 422 
Asparagus beds, mulching, 111 
Asparagus beds, salting, 144 
Asparagus competition, 164 
Asparagus culture, 144 
Asparagus cutting, 193 
Asparagus Kale, 508 
how to cook, 656 
Asparagus planting, 44 
prizes for, 188 
raising for forcing, 570 
summer managt meat of, 168 
Asphalte pavement, 99 
Asters and Stocks, 182 
Asters, dwarf, 523 
dying off, 340 

Athyrium Filix-fcemlna, 547 
Aubrietias, 304 
Aucutas, 85, 260 
berried, 31 
pruning, 6 

Auricula, the, 642, 581 
culture of the. 393, -419 
definition of the, 438 
seed sowing, 169 

Auriculas, 105, 319, 376, 382, 648, 560 
alpine, 162, 429 
and Polyanthuses, 648 
culture of, 385 
double, 404 
in bloom, 436 

old-fashioned, 116, 141, 153 
protecting, 194, 201, 208 
seedling, 185 
Australia, seeds for, 608 
Anthracite coal, 78 
•Autumn Crocuses, group of, 421 
Autumn, hardy flowers for, 186 
Autumn work in the garden, 355 
Aviary, birds for, 26, 60 
finches in,176 
in greenhouse, 176 
Azalea buds withering, 78 
Azalea cuttings, 265 
Azaleas, 3. 34, 117, 182, 500, 582 
after blooming, 144 
and Camellias, potting, 120 
and Camellias, 248 



Azaleas, hardy, 115, 219, 370 
Indian, 369 

Indian, planted out, 142 
losing their leaves, 410, 424 
potting, 20, 68 
propagating, 21, 561 
treatment of, 381, 396 
varieties of, 40S 


B 


•Tl A BIANA, 225 
_D Bacon, to smoke-dry, 566 
Balsams, 50, 205 
Balsams and Cockscombs, 159 
Balsams, how to grow, 19 
Bamboos, 2 
Bantam fowls, 145 
Barberries, 627 
Barberry, Darwin’s, 167 
Barley water, 426 
•Hartonia aurea, 416 
B irtonia, the golden, 427 
Basket, a pretty flower, 268 
Basket plants, 344 
Baskets and vases, 343, 392 
baskets, Ferns in, 666 
hanging, 75, 120 

S 'ants for hanging, 228 
eta, vases, Ac., 404 
Bate, to get rid of, 401 
Bean, Longs word French, 234 
Beans, Broad, 594 

climbing French, 11, 19 
Haricot, 145 
Windsor, 88 
Bear’s Breeches, 433 
*Bed of subtropical plants in Hyde Paik, 
153 

Bedding arrangements, summer, S3 
Bedding Calceolatias, 674 
Bedding, carpet, 672 
Bedding Geraniums, potting off, 502 
Bedcing out, 118 

Bedding plants, 42, 195. 206, 207, 227, 
312, 335, 358, -*06, 430, 500 
Bedding plants from seed, 574 
propagation of, 167 
Beading, spring, 370 
summer, 140 
winter, 157, S70 
Beds, small flower, 939 
Bee combs, fallen, 166 
Bee combs, misplaced, 241, 265 
winter passages In, 330 
Bee feeders. 588 
Bee hives, 26 
Bee hives, ants In, 134 

clearing floor boards in, 437 
improved straw skep, 80 
packing and removing, 437 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


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GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


iii 


Bees, queenless, 232 
stand* for, 146 

Bee keeping, advanced, 60,1)0 
commencing, 26 
Bee shews, exhibiting at, 252 
Bee veil and gloves, 131 
Bees, 530 

Bees and Dahlias, 339 
Bees and snow, 520 
Bees, artificial pollen for, 588 
artificial swarming of, 80, 165 
candy for, 339 
clustering 166 
diseases of, 402, 437 
destruction of drone, 291 
driving, 80 
drone, 202 
enemies of, 146. 567 
extracting surplus homy from, 201 
flowers for, 130 
food for. 48 
fumigating, 134 
sener&l management of, 507 
hiving, 113 
Ligurian, 91, 538 
moving, 134 
pasturage for, 865 
protecting from weather, 437 
removing supers from, 294 
robbers, as, 557 
seasonable notes on, 26 
fecoDd swarms of, 166 
s-cttonal boxes for, 202 
sugar cake for, 597 
Mipering, 166, 189 
straw hives, 597 
swarming, 113 
swarming late, 231 
transferring, 91 
uniting, 80 
wintering, 329 
Beet, 509 

Beet for bedding, 29 
Beet. Turnip-rooted, 193 
Beetles, 352 

destroying Strawberries, 566 
in greenhouses, 133 
’Beet?, ornamental leaved, 33 
Begonia cuttings. 32(i 
Begonia fnchsioides, 174 
’Begonia, perpetual fl.iwerins, 129 
'Begonia Queen of Doubles 173 
•Begonia semperflorens rosea, 129 
Begonias, 308 

culture of tuberous, 6 
double flowered, 173 
fine-leaved, 501 
for bedding, 6, 58 
from cuttings, fl 
propagating fine-leaved, 180 
seedling, 326 

tuberous, 43, 52, 74, 83,118, 200, 439 
tuberous, lor flower beds, 169 
tuberous, planting out, 196 
winter-flowering, 82, 180 
wintering, 440 
Belladonna Lilies, 523 
Benthamia fragifera, 513 
Berl»erls Darwinl, 119, 167 
stenophylla, 513 

•Berberls Wallichiana, spray of, 527 
Berry-bearing plants, 250 
'Beta hortensis metallic#, 38 
Biennials and annuals, 3, 238, 297 
Bleaniala and perennials, 227 
Biennials for greenhouses, 297 
late aown, 285 

Bird cages, insects in, 134,166 
Birds and cats, 154 
Birds and fruit buds, 529, 643, 554 
Birds, book on British, 48 
Birds for aviary, 26, 60 
from China, 113, 124 
in large cage, 48,100,146 
notes on, 135 
Bishop weed, 132 
Black Hamburghs, 508 
Blackberries, American, 585 
Blackberries, propagating, 350 
varieties of, 585 
Blanching Seakale, 596 
Blight spittle, 188 
Bocconia cordata, 2 
Bog plants, 49 
Boiler for greenhouse, 34 
gas, 35 

Boilers, management of, 401 
setting. 436 
Bones as manure, 383 
dissolving, 47 
for drainage, 149, 193 
Borage, culture of, 526 
Border plant, a good, 344 
Borders, herbaceous, 610 
in Kensington Gardens, 194 
mixed, 256 

Borecole, late Dwarf Curled, 122 
Veiteh's Dwarf Curled, 111 
Boronia elatior, 104 
Bougainvillea glabra, 83, 256, 500 
Bougainvilleas, 406 
Bouquets from annuals, 39 
Bouvardias, 34, 118, 300, 358, 417 
Ikmvardias, culture of, 339, 348 
in winter, 218, 432 
Bcuvardia leaves shrivelling, 421 
Box edgings, 155, 187 
Box, transplanting, 404 
Bracken clock, 197 
Brahma fowls, 202 
Brahma fowls ill, 18 
Brahma with pea-comb, 389 
Brier stocks, Boses on, 39, 86, 107 
Briers, Sweet, 349 
Broad Beans, 594 

Broccoli, 98, 594 | 

Digitized by VjO 


Broccoli between Potatof s, 228 
Broccoli, Cattell'B EcMpee, 122 
for winter, 223 
how to grow, 435 
manuring late, 526 
Broody hens, 598 
Krowallia elata, 51 
BrugmauBia, 41 
•Brugmansia, the, 249 
Brussels Sprouts, 350, 565 
culture of, 8 
falling, 566, 5S6 
sowing, 340 
Budding Roses, 137 
Budgerigars, 578 
Bulbous plants, 3 
Bulbous- rooted stove plants, 4C5 
Bulbs, 266, 419 
and tubers, 307 
early-flowering, 283 
forcing, 417, 420 
hardy, 103 
In beds, 131 
in Holland, 33 
lifting, 293 

notes on the culture of, 867 
permanent beds of, 345 
planting In Grass. 108 
spring, after flowering, 217 
storing, 111 
Bullaces, 593 

and Damsons, 593 
Bush Basil, culture of, 526 
Bush fruits in small gardens, 327 
Butcher’s Broom, 35 
’Butterfly flowers, 360, 361 


C. 


C ABBAGE, 323 

Cabbages, early, 154 
Cabbages for winter and spring, 193 
Cabbage, seed saving, 164 
Cabbage, sowing, 527 
Cabbages, spring, 594 
Cabbage, spring sown, 164 
Cabbage, pickling Red, 378 
Cabbages, planting, 301 
Cabbage plants, 235 
Caladiums, 322, 405, 635 
Caladiums dropping their leaves, 293 
Calceolarias, 524. 582 
Calceolarias and Cinerarias, 319, 332, 
582 

Calceolarias, bedding, 517, 574 
collapsing, 7, 34 
frame for, 436 

herbaceous, 30, 159, 300, 439 
in windows, 32 
old. 165 
frame for, 424 
shrubby, 30 
Calla, 584 

Calla relhioplca in windows, 535 
•Calochortus venustus. 3?5 
Calvary Clover, 98, 131, 326 
Camellia house, the, 407 
Camellia not blooming, 424 
notes on the, 419 

Camellias, 3, 182, 358, 331, 394, 500, 547 
Camellias and Azaleas, 243 
Camellias and canaries, 32 
CameHfas, buds not opening, 573 
from cuttings, 524 
in open air, 58 
leaves turning brown, 436 
not blooming, 420 
notes on, 95 
potting, 20 
propagating, 21 
renovating, 563 
summer treatment of, 120 
Campanula fragilis, 364 
’Campanula Host!, 207 
Campanula nobilis var. alba, 233 
pulla, 240 
Campanulas, 243 

Campanulas in pots and baskets, 206 
Canaries and Camellias, 32 
Canaries breeding, 100, 166 
cramp in, 124 
egg food for, 166,189 
for singing, 90 
food for, 113, 176, 556 , 678 
keeping, 656, 598 
neglecting their young, 189 
not singing, 156 
treatment of, 189, 205, 330 
young dying, 330 
Canary and goldfinch, 353 
Canary breeding, 146 
Canary losing its feathers, 26 
not singing, 100 
Candytufts, 522 
annual, 186 
Canker in Roses, 198 
Cannabis gigantea, 38 
•Cannas, 33 
Cannas, 53, 609 
Cann «s, wintering, 302 
Cape Gooseberries, 507, 593 
Capsicum Little Gem, 250 
Cardinal Lobelia, the, 543 
Carnadon, fly on, 508 
•Carnation Gloire de Nancy, 349 
Carnation Grenadin, 240 
Carnation grubs. 529 
Carnation layers, removing, 253 
Carnation Souvenir de la' M&lmaison, 
623 

Carnations, 191, 535, 512, 583 
Carnarionsand Cloves, 4L7 


o 


gie 


Carnations and Picotees, 266, 3' 5, 320, 
324, 372, 375, 429, 635, 542, 583 
varieties of, 384 
Carnations, green fly on, 529 
grubs in, 647 
manure for, 31, 67 
not flowering, 29, 412 
perpetual. 524 

perpetual flowering, 74, 195 
with Picotees and Pinks in borders, 
210 , 286 

propagating, 221, 225 
soil for, 293 
sowing, 522 
staking, 196 
thinning, 311- 
tree, 22, 633 
tree, in winter, 218 
perpetual flowering, 429 
varieties of, 210 
Carpet bedding, 572 
Carpet for Ferns, 19 
Carrot, culture of the, 18 
Carrots, 605 

Carrots and Onions for show, 10 
Carrots and Radishes, 517 
Carrots, early, 538 
for market, 218 
main crops of, 572 
sowing, 538 

•Case-knife Kidney Bean, the, 537 
Cassia corymbosa, 174 
Castor-oil plants, 53, 509 
•Catananche ccerulea, 404 
Caterpillar, the Gooseberry, 132, 169 
Cats and birds, 151 

Cauliflower, Veiteh’s Autumn G'ant, 
4tl 

Cauliflowers, 323, 518 
Cauliflowers, early, 141, 154 
large, 247 

Ceanothus and Ampelopsis, 286 
Ceanothus azureus, 512 
Celery, 128. 323 
blighted, 314 
cultivation of, 76,164 
culture made easy, 505 
disease in, 411 
failing, 34, 260 
grub in, 248 
keeping, 301 
plants of, 219 
pricking out, 44, 68 
Celosia, 533 

Celosia pyramidalis, 226 
pyramidalis in winter, 218 
Cement for cistern, 211 
for water-cans, 328. 340 
‘Centaurea moschata, ‘289 
Centaureas, 509 
•Cereus, 333 
CeBspool, water, 164 
Ceylon, flower seeds for. 251 
Chaffinch and canary mules. 202 
Chaffinch mules, 222 
Cheese, Gorgonzola, 13, 48 
Cherries, 672 

and Apricots, 332 
and Plums, 572 
pruning, 160 
Cherry, the Morello, 386 
Cherry trees and starlings, 144 
Chervil, culture of, 523 
Chicken dying, 48 
Chickens, 165, 597 
feeding, 155 
ill, 231 

rearing early, 59 
rearing, 79 
separating, 2-41 
Chicory culture, 59 
’Chicory, large-rooted, 3S3 
Chimneys, damp in, 554 
•Cliionodoxa Lucilim, 547 
Chou de Burghley, 19 
Christmas Roses, 56, 436, 547, 674 
•Christmas Roses, 357 
Chrysanthemum culture, notes on, 646 
Chrysanthemum cut! ings, 82, 502 
Etoile d’Or, 429 
Show, National. 339 
Chrysanthemums, 2», 105, 170, 205, 

207, 218, 227, 23 ', 31.0,334, 370,431, 
576, 582 

Chrysanthemums, annual, 143 
changing colour, 577 
early-flowering, 371 
exhibit ion blooms of, 546 
for out of doors, 73 
housing. 547 
in open air, 243 
in the Temple, 429 
in towns, 359 
in winter, 217 
Japanese, 20 
late-flowering, 584 
liquid manure for, 506 
not flowering, 591 
notes on, 564 
out of season, 293 
pinching, 34 
propagating, 377 
specimen plants-of, 546 
striking cuttings of, 546 
summer flowering, 373 
summer management of, 506 
training, 174, 606 
varieties of, 506 
Chutnee, Indian, 353 
Cineraria, leaves curling, 577 
Cinerarias, 81, 150, 246, 311, 347, 439, 
554, 582 

Cinerarias and Calceolarias, 819, 332, 
682 

Cinerarias and Fuchsia*, 30 
Cluerari-13 drooping, 18 


I 111 


86926 


Cinerarias sr eling. S3 
•Cinquefoil, toe double, 385 
Clssus discoler, 348 
Citrons and Oranges, 266, 394 
Clarkias and Nemophilas, 427 
Clay laud, crops for, 10 
Clay soil, 261, 529 

Improving, 221, 230, 292 
Cleanliness. 419 
Clema'is, 582 

Clematis and Honeysuckle mixed, ??0 
Clematisand Virginian Creeper?,propa¬ 
gating, 342 

Clematis for beds. 286 
•Clematis Jackmannl. 43 
Clematis Jockmanni pi u in?, 357 
Clematises, cutting back, 57, 69 
hints on, 43 
propagating, 2, 547 
single wild, »71 
Cliantnus puniccus, 104 
Climbers. 75, 215, 368 

and other plants for walls, 37 
evergreen, 17 
evergreen for walls, 326 
for buildings, wallB, A-c., 37 
for cool greenhouse, 20 
for conservatory, 344 
for fence, 4'2, 417 
for greenhouse, 367 
for north aspect, 349, 500 
for trees, ]7 
for walls, 244 
for winter bloom, 20, 33 
greenhouse, 148, 218 
in glasshouses, 195 
under trees, 111 
Climbing p<»nts. 159 
Climbing Jtoses, 671 
Clover, Calvary, 98 
Cloves and CaniaiioDS, 417 
I Club Mosses, 556 

Coal, anthracite, 35, 78 
Cobrca scan dens, 411 
Cobasa scandens vartegr.ta, 104, 148 
Cochin fowls, 519 
Cockatoos, food for, 202 
Cockroaches. 120 
Cockscomb, the, 533 
Cockscombs, 51 
and Balsams, 159 
for exbibiion, 20, 33 
Cocoa flore for Pansies, 155 
Coke for heating, 556 
Coleuses, 602 
wintering, 441 
Coleworta, 54, 569 
ColJards, 669 
culture of, 569 
varieties of, 670 
Collinsia bicolor in pots, 286 
Collinsias, 427 
•Coltsfoot, common, 522 
Coltsfoot, common and sweet acente L 
522 

Columbines, 104 

Coming week’s work, the, 500, 511, 524, 
635, 547, 660, 572, 582, 691 
Commelina ciclestis, 345 
Compost for potting. 577 
Conservatory, 215, 381 
unheated, 263 
the villa garden, 343 
Convolvulus minor, 427 
in baskets and beds, 239 
Cool houses, Grapes for, 639 
late Grapes in, 502 
Cool Orchids, 535 
Coprosma Baueriana variegata, 72 
Coral plaut, 534 

Corn, Indian, for flower beds, 29 
Coronllla not blooming, 7, 6o4 
Coronilla glauca, 170 
Correas, culture of, 5G3 
•Correas, group of, 563 
Cotoneaster microphylla, 260, 512 
Simonst, 512 
Cotoneasters, 433 
Cottage building, 131 
Cottage gardens designs for, 40 
Cottage garden in spring, 162 
Cottage garden societies, 127 
’Cottage in Somersetshire, 87 
Crassulas in windows, 5 
Crataegus Pyracantha, 512 
Creeping Jenny, the golden, 208 
Creeping Saxifrage, the, 501 
Crickets, 89 

and cockroaches, 120 
in plant houses, 99 
Crocus, the, 421 
Crocuses and mice, 11 
Crocuses and Snowdrops, 304 
Crocuses in pots, 20 
Cropping a garden, 35 
Cropping a neglocted garden, 10 
Cropping double, 564, 686 
Cropping for profit, 50S 
Cropping fruit and flower garden, 211 
Crops for clay land, 10 
for wet land, 35 
rotation of, 525 
Cross-bred poultry, 588 
Croton culture, 362 
Crotons and Dracienas, 524 
•Crown Imperial, well grown, 499 
Ciown Imperials, 499 
Cucumbers, 23, 4*2, 210, 236, 358, 504 
Cucumbers all the year round, 167 
and Mushrooms, 285 
culture, 550 
falling, 205 
forp'oflt, 198 
frame, 54 i », - - 

green fly on, 340 

Hrowing, heal tor 85 - 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



IV 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Cucumbers in pots and frames, 395 
not growing, 235 
tbrips on, 185 

Cultivation, value of deep, 164 
Culture of Strawberries, 528 
Cuphea platycentra, 392 
Currant and Gooseberry trees, 594 
Currant bushes, summer pruning, 206 
•Currant, the flowering, 119 
Currant trees, 594 
Currants and Gooseberries, 374 
Currants and Gooseberries, standard, 
434 

Currant, the flowering, 258 
Cut flowers, reviving, 567 
Cuttings, how to make and strike, 334 
making, 576 

management of soft-wooded, 420 
potting of, 537 
striking in water, 120 
Cyclamen culture, 33 
Cyclamen flowers, group of, 515 
•Cyclamen neapolitanum, 193 
persicum, 431, 515 
white Ivy leaved, 269 
Cyclamens, 44, 81, 117, 235, 322, 429, 576 
and Pelargoniums, 576 
culture of, 43 
hardy, 193, 324, 532 
in windows, 534 , 
infested by grubs, 410 
not flowering, fi 
Persian, 20, 439 
Cyperus alternifolius, 22 
Cypripedium speetabile, 542 
Cypripediums, 319 
CytUus, propagating, 573 
Cytisus racemosus, 53 
culture of, 516 


D. 


D AFFODIL, the earliest, 58I 
Daffodils, 39, 307 
flowering twice, 194 
Dahlia, the, 223 
-Dahlia Union Jack, 392 
•Dahlia White Queen, 143 
Dahlias, 131, 535, 583 
and Asters, 227 
and bees, 330 
and wasps, 375 
culture of single, 17 
fungus in, 240 
in pots, 218 

protecting from slugs, 169 
single, 3, 73, 143, 365, 386, 104, 590 
Daisies, 304 
double, 162 

double, and other spring flowers, 428 
Paris, 417 

Bari*, in autumn, 356 
Daisy culture for market, 236 
•Daisy, the great Ox-eye, 161 
Daisy, Yellow Paris, 429 
Damson, Crittenden, 270 
DamsonB, 598 

Damsons and Bullaces, 693] 

Dandelion salad. 350 
Dandelion wine, to make, 520 
Daphne Cueorum, 116 
indica, propagating. 257 
Date trees seedling, 373 
•Datura, the, 249 
Daturas, 127 
Day Lilies, 540 
•Day Lily, flowers of, 541 
•Delphinium cashmerianum, 309 
•Delphinium elatum, 217 
Delphiniums, 428, 5(50 
late-flowering, 233 
or Larkspurs, 234 
Designs for cottage gardens, 40, 72 
Deutzia gracilis, 53 
as a wall plant, 142 
Deutzias, 164 

Dianthus Heddewigt fl.pL, 546 
Dianthuses, 227 
Dicemra spectabilis, 143 
Dielytra spectabilis, 142, 582 
Disas, 319 
Dorking fowls, 242 
Double cropping, 686 
Doves, management of, 232 
Dracrcna leaves going brown, 130 
Dracaenas, 83, 205 
Dracccnas and Crotons, 524 
Dracophyllum graclle, 439 
Ducks ailing, 425 
Ducks aud geese, 353 
Ducks as slug destroyers, 435 
Aylesbury, 79J 
call. 402 
v. slugs, 332 
wild, 100,133, 166 


E arly carrots, 533 

Early Turnips, 580 
Earwigs, 197, 364 
in Apples, 375 
in house and garden. 352 
Kcheveria metalllca, 509, 564 
•Echinocactus, 332 
Edelweiss, 404 
Edging plants, 67 
Edging plants, vi 

Digitize"* 


fetr gi 


Edging tiles, 46. 89 
Edgings, Box, 155 
garden, 187 
Edible fungi, 424 
•Edwardsia grandiflora. 593 
Egg within an egg, 189 
Eggs, 13 

larre and small, 145 
milky, 598 
nest, 13 

not hatching, 365 
preserving, 166, 177 
pullet laying so/t, 124 
tainted, 124, 146, 166, 105 
to preserve, 100 
with pale yolks, 124 
with thin shells, 60 
yolk of, 25, 48 
Elderflowtr wine, 295, 330 
Klieagnus, the, 432 
Elm. the, 132 
Endive, 368, 505 
’Erigeron aurantiacum, 238 
Kpocris, the, 387 
Epacrises, 117, 246, 334, 430 
Epiphyllmn truneatum, 335,502 
Epfphyllums, 430, 584 
in Loudon, 644, 673 
Erica, culture of, 637 
Ericas or Heaths, 431 
Erythrina crlsta galll, 534 
Escalloiita macrantha, 348, 512 
EschBcholtzias, 427 
Espaliers, 350 

Eucalyptus globulus. 98, 116, 609 
Eucharis, 30, 287, 417 
•Eucnarls amazouica, 180 
Eucharis amazouica, 246 
insects on, 96 
not flowering, 584 
Euconiis punctata, 316 
Euonymus latifolius, 513 
Euonymuse the, as a seaside shrub, 299 
Euuiiymuses, 119, 394 
as town bushes, 110, 132 
planting, 230 

Eupatoriuin oduratum, 534 
Euphorbia jacquiniwflora in winter, 218 
Euphorbias and Poineettlas, 150, 394 
Evening Ibimroses, 313 
Evergreen climbers for walls, 326 
Evergreens, fungus in, 500 
planting in summer, 200 
transplanting, 84 
Exhibition, vegetables for, 627 
Expense of a garden, 343 


F. 


F eather eating, 597 

Fences, garden, 15 
painting iron, 120 
•Fern case, a rectangular, 151 
Fern cases without artificial heat, 151 
Fern fronds, 375 

Fern fronds turning brown, 130 
Fern, Hare’s-foot. 93 
•Fern, Java, Hare s-foot, 204 
•Fern, new, for a greenhouse, 204 
Fern, tlie climbing, 74, 302 
the Oak leaf, 19 
Fernoiies, ornamental, 580 
Fernery, 300 

and rock garden, 256 
and rockery, haidy, 358 
construction of a, 684 
hardy, 49 

hardy and rock garden, 94 
rats in, 577 
room, 284 
the, 565 

Ferns, 94, 215, 250, 348, 517, 560, 506 
climbing, 410 
culture of, in pots, 896 
culture of Maiden-hair, In windows, 
379 

damping, 293 
falling, 584 
Filmy, 74 

for cold greenhouse, 624 
for cutting, 429 
for exhibition, 82 
for window gardening, 415 
general collection of, 666 
green carpets for, 19 
growing, 130, 139 
hardy, and rockery, 30 
in baskets, 566 
In pots, culture of, 560 
in Wardian cases, 581 
Maiden-hair, 381, 396 
Maiden-hair, in rooms, 258 
New Zealand, 381 
plants for select, 50 
scale on, 316 
shade for, 565 
useful basket, 148 
varieties of, 566 
wintering Maiden-hair, 362 
Fever Gum tree, 116 
•Ficaria grandiflora, 17 
Ficus elastics, 432 
potting, 381 

•Fig, type of Indian, 332 
Figs as ornamental trees, 237 
on walls, 161 
treatment of, 260 
Fish, fungus on, 177 
keeping gold!, 177 
Fish pond, plants for, 117 
Firs, moving Scotch, 2*21 
Floors, greenhouse, 111, 629 


Floors, staining, 230 
Florists’ flowers, 340 
Florists' flowers, wintering, 542 
Flower beds and borders, 12 
and walks, 430 
clearing, 395 
forming, 111 
In autumn, 355 
small, 239 
manuring, 291 
preparing, 22 

Flower borders, mixed, 106, 182. 395 
Flower for greenhouse In winUr, 33 
Flower garden, cropping the, 211 
Flower garden, planting a small, 401 
Flower pots, china, 31 
Flower seeds from the Cap*, 47 
•Flowers, a garden of hardy, 21 
Flowers and foliage, 302 
FlowerB and fruit for garden, 255 
Flowers and plants in rooms, 22, 32, 
121, 248 

Flowers and seed-pods, removing dead, 

239 

Flower beds of summer and autumn, 
147 

mixed, in borders, 230 
choice hardy, 207 
cut in winter, 426 
fertilising, 292 
for bees, 130, 168 
for London garden, 29 
for market, 163 
for next spring, 304 
for small beds, 93 
for small gardens, 99 
hardy, 382, 576 
hardy florists’, 191 
hardy for cutting, 186 
hardy for exhibition, 216 
in rooms, 5 
•Flowers of April, 65 
•Flowers of August, 259 
•Flowers of July, 208 
•Flowers of June, 163 
•Flowers of March, 7 
•Flowers of May, 109 
•Flowers of September, 303 
Flowers, planting. 291 
producing double, 352 
scent from, 58 
spring, 74, 216, 428 
staking and tying, 336 
summer, 3 9 
sweet scented, 71 
to stand the winter, 340 
transplanting spring, 161 
weather proof, 392 
Food, change of, 413 
for canaries, 566,578 
reform, 175 
uses of animal, 295 
Forcing Anemone japonlca, 647 
Forget-me-not in Grass, 142 
Fork and hoe combined, 47 
Fowl*, ailing, 389 
Andalusian, 25, 100 
Aseel, 60 
Bantam, 145 
best for laying, 389 
Brahma, 202 
choice of breed, 565 
Cochin, 13 
Dorking, 242 

eating feathers, 100, 202, 353 

fatting, 330 

food for ten, 242 

for the table, 330 

dying, 544, 365 

gathering on feet of, 13 

Kiddy, 678 

Hamburgh, 20 

Hondan, 18 

in gardens, 351 

laying in winter, 318 

Leghorn, 25 

light Brahma, 79 

lime for, 426 

manure of. 351 

medicine for, 202 

noisy, 25 

not laying, 578 

Plymouth Rock, 262,330,335 

profit from, 90 

small run for, 00 ] 

Spanish, 13 
unhealthy, 231 
useful, 60 
with colds, 13 
with pea-combs, 389 
with swollen eyes, 25 
Frame, a propagating, 68 
for Calceolarias, 424 
Frames, cold, 264 
propolisation of, 631 
raising plants in, 81 
Rhubarb in, 618,527 
Fraxinella, 676 
•Fremontia callfornica, 397 
Freesias and their culture, 97 
•F’reesia refracta alba, 97 
Fruit and flower garden, cropping the, 
211 

Fruit and flowers for garden, 255 
Fruit and vegetables, preserving, 185 
Fruit buds and bird*, 529, 554 
Fruit culture, 331 
for profit, 202 
Fruit cover, frost proof, 8 
F'ruit for market, 434 ' 

Fruit garden, market, 23 
Fruit gardens, work In large, 152 
Fruit gathering. 368 

hardy, 30, 1 6, 128, 183,106, 207, 312, 


F’ruit, soil for, 562 

iu market gardens, 110 
locality for, 552 
profitable culture of, 552 
soil and position for, 652 
Fruit trees and birds, 543 
borders for, 640 
disbudding, 170 
fan trained, 434 
for small gardens, 328, 337 
from cuttings, 594 
grubs in, 32.182 
m hedges. 562 
manuring, 122,589 
moving, 386, t08 
newly planted, 8,11 
overcrowding, 169 
pruning, 8, 518 
pruning and nailing, 371 
recently planted, 110 
renovating old, 898, 594 
summer pruning, 132, 160 
vegetable crops between, 586 
walls for, 161 
watering in autumn, 360 
when to manure, 539 
winter dressing, 539 
Fruits, bush, in small gardens, 32 
for walls, 162 
hardy 227, 246, 335 
varieties of, 653 
Fuchsia culture, 293, 550 
Fuchsia flower* dropping, 440 
•F’uchsia fulgens, 149 
Fuchsia fulgens, 130, 348 
• Fuchsia globosa, 265 
•Fuchsia microphylla, 149 
Fuchsia Mrs Marshall, 673 

8unray for the flower garden, 428 
Fuchsias, 30, 82, 98, 118, 226, *35, 370 
600 

Fuchsias, cutting back, 6, 554 
dwarf, 396, 424 
for autumn, 120 
grafting, 20 
hardy, 55, 266 
in summer, 320 
in winter, 592 

Lord Beaconsfleld and Mrs. Bundle, 
302 

•Fuchsias, old, 149 
Fuchsias, old, 537 
potting, 326, 340, 550 
propagating, 369, 375 
soil for, 550 
standard, 563 
striking cuttings of, 550 
two good, 302 
F’unguson Dahlias, 240 
on fish, 177 
on Rose leaves, 270 
Funkia grandiflora, 302, 603 
•F’unkia Sieboldi, 116, 286 
Funklas, 142, 543 


G. 


G AILLARDIAS, 73 

Garden, a cottage, in spring, 132 
a little, 308 
a London, 559 
a wet, 211 

arranging the spring, 103 
art In the, 152 
cropping a, 35 
cropping a neglected, 10 
fertilisers, 92 
foes, 545 
friends, 545 
ground, preparing, 328 
improving a, 340 
•Garden of hardy flowers, 21 
Garden of the future, the, 657 
Garden, planning the flower, 141 
renovating an old, 270 
subtropical, 106 
the American, 115 
the reserve, 103 
•Garden, the wild, 121 
Garden, work in the town, 4, 23, 75, 84, 
95, 106, 161, 160 
Gardener’s Garter Grass, 324 
Gardenia culture, 139 
Gardenias, 256, 346, 358, 405, 441, 500 
Gardenias and Stephanotis, 74 
Gardening, hardy flower, 540 
notes on window, 403 
picturesque, 355 
profitable, 362 
subtropical, 153, 672 
suburban, 308 
winter, 392 

Gardens, law respecting, 412 
miniature, 510 
rats and mice In, 520 
•Garlic, 301 
Garrya elliptica, 432 
Garrya elliptica, propagating, 693 
Gas boiler, 35 
Gas heating, 400 
Gaslime as a manure, 556 
Gaslime for small gardens, 334 
Gazauia splendens, 255 
Geese and ducks, 353 
Genista not growing, 34 
Genista prostrata, 208 
Genistas, 216 

Gentiana acaulis, 108, 386, 542 
as an edging, 109 
from seed, 89 
Gontianella from seed, 142 
Geometric gardening, 1 


370, 383. 406, 491, 560 

protection of, 28 (JNIVERSI 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


V 


Geranium for winter bloom, 90 
Gerauiumleaves turning yellow, 305, 316 
Geranium Madame Salleral, 207 
Geranium stems rotting, 105 
Geranium v. Pelargonium, 424 
Geranium Winter Queen) £6 
Geraniums, 243, 524 
Geraniums all the year round, 0 
and Heliotropes, 98, 105 
and Petunias failing, 2i8 
and Roses, 105 
dying off, 32 
hardy, 238 
in vineries, 381 
in winter, *2 

not blooming, 73, 78, 105, 131 
scented-leaved, 584 
winter flowering, 19, 50 
wintering, 340, 348, 396 
zonal, 227 
Gesnerias, 256 
Gesncriaa in winter, 218 
Gesnerias, tuberous, 322 
Geum coccineum plenum, 29, 207 
Giant Hemp, 38 
Gladioli, 86, 98, 182, 307 
Gladioli, bulbs of. 577 
culture of, 56 
in pots, 148 

in pots not flowering, 317 
not flowering. 2 

Gladiolus Colvillei The Bride, 3S6 
Glass clOches, 127 „ 

Glass, coloured, for conservatory, 89, 99 
Glass, catting, 352, 364 
Glasshouses, protecting, 513 
(Jlazing without putty, 529 
Globe aquarium, 645 
notes on a, 520 
Glory Pea, Ilarrison's, 260 
Gloxinias, 320, 322 

and Achimenes, 30, 235 
failing, 410 
propagating, 174 
raising from seed, 530 
GodetiaB as bedding plants, 85 
Goldfinch and caiwry, 353 
Goldfinch not slngiDg, 650, 598 
Goldfish, 177,189 

Gooseberries and Currants, 374, 434 
Gooseberries, big, 224 
Cape, 507, 518,640 
select, 260 

Oooseberry and Currant treep, 594 
Gooseberry bushes, lifting olu, 434 
Gooseberry, Cape, 593 
Gooseberry caterpillar and American 
blight, 389 

Gooseberry caterpillar, 110, 132, 169, 
237 

Gooseberry trees, 594 
Gooseberry trees, removing, 270 
Gooseberry trees, lime washing, 09 
Gorse, 499 

Gourds and Vegetable Marrows, 126 
Grafting apple trees, 122 
Fuchsias, 20 
Roses, 137 
Grafting wax, 5 

Grape culture, pimple, 305, 327 
Grape growing, notes on, 169 
Grape room, 382 
Grape Vine, the, 422 
Grape Vines, joung, 569 
Grapes, 331 
Grapes cracking, 289 
early, 183 

for cool houses, 630 
keeping, 328, 338 
late keeping, 433 
mid-season, 183 
ripening and packing, 350 
second crops of, 374 
thinning, 169, 181 
Grass ss manure, 133 
Grass cutting, 195 
Grass drying, 154 
Grass, Gardener s Oarter, 324 
Grass land, 89 
Grass seed, 411 
Grass seed, sowing, 424 
Orasaes, ornamental, 22,248 
Gravel, loose, on walks, 240 
Graves, plants for. 194 
Green tiy, destroying, 529 
on Ro36S, 572 

Greenhouse, an amateur's, 432 
Greenhouse annuals, 533 
Oreenhouse, badly managed, 543, 587 
Oreenhouse bulldiDg, 34, 45, 46, 618 
Greenhouse, climbers for, 148 
floors for, 629 
heating a, 132 
heating portable, 220 
lean-to, 47 

Greenhouse plants, 130, 175, 560, 5i3 
Greenhouse, plants failing in the, 510 
plants for, 578 
plants for, from seed, 439 
housing, plants for, 311 
portable, 508 
stages in, 46 
success In the, 75 
the cool, 431 

the unheated, 203, 283, 297, 307, 319 
the villa garden, 362 
Greenhouses, 32, 63 
building, 508 

•Greenhouses, construction of, 45 
Greenhouses, Ferns for cold, 524 
for profit, 220 

heating and stocking small, 391 
heating villa, 421 
law as to, 570 
lean-to, 35 
plants failing in, 564 


GoJigfc 


Greenhouses, Roses in, 508, 525 
In towns. 23 
uses of, 570, 584 
ventilating, 45, 556 
Grevillea robusta, 619 
Ground glass for roofs, 554 
Groundsel, Tyerman’s, 404 
Grubs, 200 

and slugs, 340 
Carnation, 508 
in fruit trees, 32, 182 
in garden soil, 211 
In Onions, 34,8S, 111 
Guano for Rosea, 138 
Guelder Rose, the, 397 
Gutta-percha tubing, mending, 401, 412 
Gynerium argenteum, 153 


H ABROTHAMNU8 fasclcularia, 396 
Hrcmanthus, 308, 130 
*Hairbell, Host’s, 207 
Hamburgh fowls, 26 
Hams not taking salt, 426 
pickle for, 13 
pickling, 00. 100, 437 
Hanging basket, plant for, 554 
Hard-wooded greenhouse plant, 216 
Hardy Cyclamens, 582 
'Hardy double Pieony. 575 
Hardy flower gardening, 540 
Hardy flower gardening, a Scottish 
experience in, 497, 542.557 
Hardy flower gardening, commencing, 
658 

Hardy flowers, 243, 246, 312, 382, 576 
Hardy flowers, choice, 207 
Hardy flowers, florists’, 191 
•Hardy flowers, garden of, 21 
Hardy flowers for autumn, 126 
for cutting. 1S6 
for exhibitions, 216 
for spring, 172 
for summer, 172 
in small gardens, 304 
Hardy fruit, 207, 548, 560 
Hardy Piconies, 675 
Hardy plants, 170, 548 
and annuals, 147 
in London, 271 
propagating, 187, 217 
Heath house, the, 386 
Heath, the winter, 582 
Heaths, 41, 417, 431 
culture of, 684 
propagating, 387, 573 
varieties of, 387 
Heating a greenhouse, 132 
Heating and ventilating, 344 
Heating, coke for, 556 
Heating Cucumber houses, 35 
Heating, gas, for small greenhouses, 400 
Heating greenhouses, 45 
lamp for, 430 

portable greenhouse, 211, 220 
small greenhouses, 251, 438 
villa greenhouses, 421 
Htdge, pruning Holly, 73 
Hedges, clipping, 109, 348 
clipping Laurel, 5 
Holly, 200 
of Sweet Brier, 58 
Thuja Lobbi for, 424 
Heliotrope White Lady, 325 
♦Heliotrope, winter, 623 
Heliotrope, winter, 590 
Heliotropes, 96, 117, 195, 235, 335 
Heliotropes and Geraniums, 93 
Hemerocallis, 244, 540 
•Hemerocallis Hava, 510 
•Hemerocallis Hava llore-pleno, 540 
Hens, broody, 318 
prolific, 124 

eating eggs, 60, 231, 262 
laying In winter, 318 
not laying, 100 
sitting, 25 

Hepatica, propagating. 543 
Herbaceous and mixed flower borders, 
161 

Herbaceous borders, 23, 227, 358, 418, 
510 

Herbaceous plants, 23, 691 
Herbs, 100,313, 626 
culture of, 626 
drying, 227 
Hibiscus syriacua. 677 
Hives, dampness in, 607 
shading, 189 

Hoe and fork combined, 47 
Hollies, maggots on, 194 
Holly Golden Queen, 432 
Holly hedge, pruning, 73 
Holly hedges, 200 
planting, 661 

Hollyhock, culture of the, 28, 39, 191 
Hollyhocks, 20, 292, 535, 642, 660, 583 
Hollyhocks, disease In, 337 
Honesty, common, 3 
dried pods of, 284 

Honeysuckle and Clematis mixed, 286 
Honeysuckle, winter, 507 
Honeysuckles, scarlet, 200 
Hop beer, 232 

•Hop, the, as a climber, 197 
Hops, spent, for hotbeds, 59 
Hose repairing, 173 
Hotbed, a lasting, 651 
linings fur, > 52 

iking a, 411, 424, 594 
■paring material for, 551 


Hoi bed, straw for, 11 
Hotbeds, 23 
permanent, 11 

Hot-water pipes, arrangement of, 656 
fixing, 59 
painting, 519 
tarring, 518 

Houdans losing feathers, 148 
House slops, 163,188, 237, 250 
House, the temperate, 362 
Household the, 13 
Hoya bella, 421 
Humea elegans, 30 
Humea elegans out of doors, 169 
Hyacinth, the Mask, 255 
Hyacinths, 307 

after bloomli g, 78, 108, 116, 193 
age of, 35 

and other bulbs, 335 
and Tulips, planting, 394 
culture of, 367 
culture of in pots, 442 
early, 516 

early flowering, 287 
failing. 11 
for pots, 367 
for window culture, 441 
in gla*8e , 411 
in open ground, 108 
in pots, 99 
Roman, 370 

Hyacinthus candicnns, 245 
Hyacinthus candicans in pota, 536 
•Hyde Park, bed of subtropical plants 
in, 153 

Hydrangea paniculata, 364 
Hydrangea paniculata grandiilora, 359 
Hydrangeas, 105, 226, 311, 634 
and Neriums, 30 
blue, 372 

for conservatories, 302 
for greenhouses, 129 


I. 


I MPROVING a garden, 328 
Incubators, 425 

lndiarubber plants, propagating, 237 
Indian corn, 76 

Indian corn for flower beds, 29 
Indian pinks, 309 

IndlaruDher plants, cutting down, 692 
Insecticide, a cheap, 285 
Insect pests, 351, 419 
Insects, cleaning plants of, 389 
in cages, 134, 106, 
in Eucharis, 96 
in greenhouse, 24 
in vegetables, 185 
in vine rods, 59 
remedy for, 597 
Inula glandulosa, 337 
♦Inula glandulosa, flower head of, 337 
•Ipomioa Bona nox, 82 
Iris common blue, 36, 38 
flag or common, 244 
Kaempferi, 404 
•Iris neglecta Victorine, 373 
Iris reticulata. 93 
In towns, 373 

Isleof Wight, notes from the, 298 
Ivy as a gate ornament. 337 
as a seaside plant, 433 
for corridors, 121 
for indoor decoration, 580 
injurious to poultry, 79 
propagsting, 326, 66 L 
•Ixias, 225 
Ixias, 93, 307, 543 
in open ground, 18 
Ixias, Sparaxis, and Tritomas, 224 


J. 


J APANESE Privet, propagating, 593 
Jerusalem Artichokes, 518 
Jerusalem Artichokes, to grow, 565 
July, flowers of, 208 
June, flowers of, 103 


K. 


K ALOSANTHE8, 159, 382, 534 
Kalosanthes in windows, 5 
Keeping canaries, 556, $93 
Keeping poultry, 568 
•Kentia canterburyana, 592 
Kerria japonlca, 574 
Kidney Bean, White Dutch, 637 
Kitchen garden, edgings for, 586 
•Kittatinnv Blackberry, the. 586 
Knotweed, the Sschalian, 311 


Lantans, 206 

’Lapageria, the white, 409 
Lapagerias, 117, 250, 347 
from seed, 33, 44 
Larks, food for, 124 
•Larkspur, cashmerian, 309 
Larkspurs, 217 

Larkspurs v. Delphiniums, 234 
Larkspurs, perennial, 243 
Laatrea fragrans. 3l6 
laurel hedges, clipp : ng, 5 
Laurels, fungus on, 89 
Lauristinuses, 432 
Lavender, 309 

Law respecting gardens, 412 
Lawn, improving a, 412 
making a, 11 
making a tennis, 292 
preparing, 37 
the turf of the, 291 
unlevel, 11 
weeds on, 607 
Lawns, 32, 648, 5SS, 591 
Lawns ana walks. 260 
flowers on, 239 
inakin .’, 45 
repairing old, 45 
weedy, 188 
worms in 35, 103 
Yarrow in, 375 
Leek, main crops of, 572 
Leeks, 44,185 
and onions, 128 
for exhibition, 422 
sowing. 424 
Leghorns, 25 
white, 318 

Lemon pips, saving, 420 
Lettuce, 505, 694 
good, 53 

stalks, preserving, 353 
Lettuces for salad in spring, 110 
summer. 184 

their culture and varieties, 284 
wintering, 411 
•Leucojum aestivum, 185 
Libnia floribunda, 348, 376 
Lichen in pots. 401 
Ligurian bees, 6:8 
Lilacs, 398 
Lilacs for forcing, 5 
lilacs, forced, 20 

Lilies, 3, 105, 216, 287, 308, 382, 541 
•Lilies, a bed of Tiger, 357 
Lilies, Arum, 118, 221 
ss pot plants, 249 
culture of in pots, 409 
culture of Water, 293 
Day, 153 
dying, 208 
early, 141 

•Lilies, Guernsey, 380 
Lilies in pots, 7 
manure for, 154 
not blooming, 516 
•Lilies, Plantain, 116,142 
the Day, 244 

the Scarborough and African, f57 
Water, 254 

Lilium auratum, 400, 410, 502, 507, 554 
and speciosum, 411 
in open ground, 17 
not grow ing, 517 
small buds of, 508, 616 
worms in, 518 
Lilium candidum, 373, 375 
giganteum, 30 
Thunbergianum, 511 
•Lilium umbellatum, 141 
Lily, Arum, 218 

•Lily, common yellow Water, 251 
Lily, Ethiopian, 218 

large flowered Plantain, 302 
Lily of ihe Valley, 394, 404, 561, 676 
Lily of the Valley and Solomon’s St a 
307 

in open beds, 93 
in pots, 265 
not flowering, 186 
not growing, 554, 573 
transplanting, 269 
well grown, 268 
Lily, Sieboid s Plantain, 286 
•Lily, the Amazon, 180 
•Lily, the Mariposa, 325 
Lime for fruits, 425 
Linum trigynum, 78 
Liver disease, 597 
Lobelia cardinalis fulgent, 543 
Lobelia fulgens, 2 
‘Lobelia Queen Victoria, 168 
Lobelia. Swauley blue, 682 
•Lobelia, the scarlet, lo8 
Lobelias, bedding, 346 
in pant, 592 
Lolier, cultive, 93 
London, window gardening in, 514 
Love lies bleeding, 2 
; Luculia gratlssim, 19, 822, 534 
Lychnis viscaria splendens fl.-pl., 208 
Lycopod, training, 98 
Lygodium seandens, 74, 302 


L abels for piant», 31 

•Lachenalia pendula, flower spike 
of, 651 

Lachenalias, 308, S70, 551 
planting, 430 
potting, 441 

Ladybirds and aphides, 204 

Lady Fern, the, 647 , 

Land, new, 89 


M. 


M aggot, onion, 314 

Maggots in Hollies, 194 
•Magnolia conspicna, 95 
•Magnolia, flower of the Yulan, 95 
Magnolia grandiilora, 513 
Magnolia?, 119 

early flowering, 95 
Maidenhair Ferns, 664 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Vi GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Maze, how to plan a, 11 

Nasturtium, double, 317 

Pansies, show and fancy, 233, 50 

Phlox, varieties of the, 210 

•Malope trill »la, 2 

the flame, 269 

show v. bedding, 2 

Phloxes, 5:15 

"Malva moschata alba, 268 

Nectarines and Peaches, 101,257,322, 331 

show v. fancy, 29 

tall heibaceotis, 581 

Manure, bones as, 383 

culture of, 669 

under trees, 522 

Pickling, vinegar for, 550 

cheap, 4, 58, 75, 220 

Nectarines, culture of, 569 

PaDsy and V ioia cuttings, 116 

Plcoters. 191, 535, 542, 583 

earth closet, 78, 230 

planting, 509 

•Pansy, blooms of show and fancy, 157 

and Carnations, 266, 320, 324, 372 

for Carnations, 34 

Nemophllas and Clarkias, 427 

Pansy culture In pots, 233 

975, 43ti, 535, 542, 6S3 

for garden, 328 

'Nephrolepis davalioides furcans, 204 

•Pansy, detailed culture of the, 107 

varieties of, 384 

for Lilies, 154 

•Nerine JfothergilU, 380 

Pansy Magpie, 193, 304 

Carnations, and Pinks, 286 

for Pansies, 265 

Neriues, 312 

Papaver umbrosa, 325 

sowing, 623 

for plants, 352 

Nerlum Oleander, 302 

Paris Daisies. 417 

varieties of, 210 

for Roses, 78 

•Neriums, 182, 368 

in autumn, 1356 

Pigeons dying, 281, 556 

for Verbenas, 586 

and Hydrangeas, 30 

the yt llow, 429 

Paraffin lamp for heating frame, 436 

Pigeons for own use, 25 

grass as, 133 

•Neriums, double, 368 

in gardens, 89 

fowl. 240 

Nertera depressa, 432 

Parrukeet moulting, 232, 272 

Pigs ; do they pay ? 79 

liquid, 11, 375 

Nettle beer, 177, 295 

plucking its feathers, 18, 113 

ringworm in, 8 

sewage as, 132 

New Holland plants, management of, 

training, 598 

Pikelets, to make, 113 

soot as, 187 

363 

Parrot dying, 134 

•Pllewort great, 17 

us-** of poultry, 328 

Nicotians artinis, 120 

having fits, 156 

Pimeleas, 165, 250 

waste in, 106, 220 

Nightingale, Japanese, 146, 17G 

plucking its feathers, 378 

Pinching plants, 98 

water. 78 

\ irginiau, 222, 202 

Parrots, 262 

Pinks, 182, 191, 542, 580 

wood a^hes as, 12 

North wall, climber for, 500 

breeding, 232 

culture of, 209, 416 

Manuring a garden, 11 

Notes on annuals, 674 

management of, 113, 146, 150, 176 

forcing, 210 

flower-beds, 291 

Notes on Pansies, 690 

water for, 202 

Indian, 309 

fruit trees, 122 

Notes, seasonable, 567 

with fits, 170 

varieties of, 210 

waste ill, 117, 173, 240 

Nuts, pruning, 23 

Parsley for winter, 270 

white. 194 

Maples in flower garden, 158 
* March flowers, group of, 7 

Marigolds, 429 

Marigolds for show, 73 

Market, flowers for, 153 

O. 

in spring, 144 

Parsnip wine, to make, 520 

Parsnip Elcombe, 54 

Pannips, liquid manure for, 310 
main crops of, 572 

Pipes, fixing hot water, 18 

material for binding round, 340 
Plant, a good border, 344 

Plant borders, herbaceous, 200 

Plant culture, failure In, 513 

Market fruit garden, 23 
•Marjoram, sweet or knotted, 53 

Marvel of Peru, 574 

/"'VAKS, bleeding, 230 

V/ propagating, 32 

notes on culture of the, 9 

Paths, material* for, 343 

Pea, American Wonder, 111 

Plants for hanging basket, 554 

Plant houses, 343 

Plant stove, the, 695 

*VI ask flowers, 264 

Harrison’s Glory, -60 

Plantain Lille*, 543 

'May, flowers of, 109 

Obeliscaria pulcherrima, 570 

the winged, 35 

•Plantain Lily, large flowered, 5*3 

McLean’s Little Gem Fen, 5S0 

Odoutogloscum Roezli album, 105 

Walker’s Perpetual B c arer, 338 

Planting flowers, 291 

Mead, common to make, 365 

Old Man or Southernwood, 659, 670 

Peach trees, ants in, 11 

spring o. autumn, 376 
the flower ganlen, 145 

Mead, to make, .Sack, 365 

•Oleander, double, 308 

neglected, 338 

Mealy bug on Pear trees, 122 

oleanders, 105,182 , 368 

scale on, 269 

Plants, American, 116 

on plants, 96 
on Vines. 289 

Onion culture, 44 

Peaches, 312 

aquatic and bog, 49 

grub, 10. 34 

and Nectarines, 161, 206, 2 7, 322, 

berry bearing, 260 

Meat, tainted, 166 

maggot, 314 

331 

bulbous, 3 

Medicago echinus, 326 

seed sowing. Spanish. 293 

culture of, 569 

bulbous rooted stove, 4P5 

Medicine for fowl, 202 

the Trebona, 270, 285 

Peaches, dropping, 328 

climbing, 591 

Melianthua major, 5(9 

Onions, 592 

planting, 569 

cutting back, 577 

Melon bed, 40 

Onions and Carrots for show, 10 

ripening, 198 

damping off, 550, 677 

•Melon Thistle, 332 

and Leeks, 128 

under glass, 195 

disturbing roots of. 429 

Melons, 84, 106, 140, 21G, 256, 288, 312, 

and Strawberries, 204 

Pear, Althorpe Crassane, 484 

dying in border, 39 

336, 548 

autumn sown, 537 

Pear growing for profit, 528 

edging, 57 

failing In greenhouses, 664 
flne-leaved, raising from seed, 509 

disease in, 237 

culture of, 63 

Pear, Pitmaston Duchess, 434 

for house, 300 

grubs in, 8s>, 111 

Prince Consort, Huyshc s, 507 

in hot-bed frames, 76 

maggots in, 18 

Pear tree not fruiting, 224, 300, 528 

for back wall, 205, 120 

not setting, 32 

main crops of, 572 

pruning, 88 

for baskets, 344 

'•Melons, water, 214 

notes on, 10, 53 

Pear trees not fruiting, 374 

for borders, 73 

•Mesembryanthemum pomeridianum, 

Onosma taurica, 208 

scale and bug in, 122 

for carpets, vs 

580 

-Optunia, 332 

scale in, 88 

Pears cracking, 424 

for case, 373 

Meserabryanthemump, soil for, 579 

orange culture in windows, 78 

f >r cool greenhouse, 33, 432 

•Mesembryanthemum ligrinum, 581 

Orange trees, 32, 44 

for stewing, 314 

for conservatory, 344 

'Mesembryanthemum tricolor, 6S0 

Orangery, the, 407 

in unheated greenhouses, 332 

for covered passage, 441 

Mesembryanthemums, 547 

Oranges, 159 

and Citrons, 266, 394 
and Palms from s*ed, 149 

pruning, 161 

for edging, 29 

annual species of, 580 

Teas, 518, 592 

for fish pond, 117 

as window plants, 579 

and mice, 595 

for gas lighted rooms 

perennial species or, 580 

Orchard blossoms, 77 

and sparrows, 567 

for graves, 194 

Mice and Crocuses, 11 

Orchard houses, 84. 128, 159, 206, 267. 

between crops, 10 

for greenhouse, 573, 176 

Mice in gardens, 520 

323, 347, 430, 501, 592 

Orchard, planting a, 327 

early, 431 

for grouping, 350 

Mignonette, 51, 127, 250. 266, 370, 533 

early Sweet, 393 

for halls, 403 

Mignonette failing, 131,142 

In pots. 6 

Orchards, freeing from Moss, 562 

for seed, 14 

for hangine baskets. ?28 

Orchids, 319 

in succession, 88 

for north bordei, .Ox 

in winter. 218 

British, 319 

in trenches, 10 

for seaside, 57, 59 

Mile’s Spiral, 130 

cool, 106 

in turv es, 31 

for shaded greenhouse, 43 

winter, 235 

In winter. 218 

late sown, 122 

for show, 149 

Mildew on Apple trees, 410 

treatment of imported, 139 

mildew on, 270 

for sloping hank, 165 

on Pears, 270 

•Origanum vulgare, 63 

prizes for, 18 

for small garden, 268 

on Roses, 198 

Omithogalum nutans, 307 
•On ithogalum nmbeUatum, 72 

sowing, 10 

for sunless border, 58 

on Vines, 271, 5'0. 563 

Sweet, 324, 581 

for various positions, 356 

Milla uniflora, 308 

osmanthus illicifollus, 432 

without stakes, 164 

for walls, 11, 344 

Mimulus, the, as a bedding plant, 194 
Miniature gardens, 510 

Minorca and Leghorn, 508 

Mint, culture of, 526 

Mistletoe, propagation of, 512 

Mouarda dldymn, 542 

Outdoor garden, 63 

Peat Moss, 99,132, 164 

for warm greenhouse, 34 

P. 

Pelargonium Guillton Wangilll, 20 

Happy Thought, 139 
or Geranium, 424 

Pelargoniums, 181. 228, 266, 382, 431 
Pelargoniums, bedding, 517 

for window case, 11 
for winter bloom, 44 
for winter decoration, 380 
for winter flowering, 237 
greenhouse, 42, 139, 170, 560 

Moneywort, 225 

Moss, freeing orchards from, 502 

Moss manure, ft 66 , 687 

pO-'ONIES, hardiness of, 575 

J. hardy, 575 

for pot culture, 377 
for winter blooming, 43 
in flower beds, 194 

out of-doors, 205 
growing spindly, 524 
hard-wooded, 150, 691 
hard-wooded greenhouse, 246 

Mountain Ash, ihe, 348 

in pots, 51 

Moving fruit trees, 508 

herbaceous, 243 

In summer, 319 

hardy,170 

Mulberry trees, 374 

herbaceous, with double flowers, 234 

in winter, 144 

hardy border, 171 

Mulching and top-dressing, 215 

Moutan, 397 
position for, 575 
tree or Moutan, 234, 239 

Ivy-leaved, 237, 369 

hardy edging, 157 

and watering, 291 

larg-’-flowered and fancy, 117 

herbaceous, 23, 691 

Apple trees, 122 

propagating, 129, 257 

hints on potting, 592 

for tree roots, 95 

varieties of, 67« 

semi-double, 218 

housing greenhouse, 311 

on top-dresBtng, 200, 230 

culture of, 233 

Zonal, 82 

in cold frame, 376 

Roses, 150 

Painting iron fences, 120 

Zonal, in spring, 149 

iti rooms, 32, 84, 121 

•Mullein, the purple, 285 

Palms. 432 

Zonal, in winter, 217 

in small pots, S3 

Musa ensete, 348 

Hnd Oranges from seed, 149 

Pentas, 127 

losing their leaves, 554 

•Muscari roosebatum, 256 

Dat3 from seed, 78 

* Pt n tsi a carnea, 138 

management of New Holland, 363 

Mushroom bed, making a, 192 

from Calcutta, 44 

Pcnistemons, 210. 236 

picking faded flowers off, 325 

woodlice in, 411 

greenhouse, 357 

Pentsternons and Phloxes, 42 

pinching or stopping, 98 
propagating Indiarubbcr, 237 

Mushroom beds, preparing, 422 
Mushroom culture in meadows, 09 

in pots, 573 

Pentstemons Murrayanus and spcciosus, 

injwindows, 592 

325 

propagating New Holland, 387 

Mushrooms, badly flavoured, 99 

potting, 61, 69 

Perch and tench, bait for, 353 

Perennials, a few showy, 310 

propagation of bedding. 157 

how to grow, 9 

Tampas Grass, 131, 142, 153 

raising in cold frames, SI 


culture of, 16 

and annual.*, 75 

repotting, 570 

and Cucumbers, 285 

Psnicnm varies a turn, 127 

and biennials, 227 

restoring unhealthy, 363 

•Musk Hyacinth, the, 256 

Pans, Lob* lias in. 592 

best kinds of, 509 

soft-wooded, 591 

•Musk, Mallow, the white, 268 

Pansies, 182, 207, 263, 339, 5F>, 560, 

for cutting, 108 

B00t-w*ter for, 572 
spring flowering, 393 

My garden, 179 

682 

hardy, 42 

M>o>)otia dissitittora from seed, 225 

and Violas, 215, 560 

propagating, 316 

stove and greenhouse, 94 

Myrtle, broad-leaved, 513 

propagating, 280 
beautiful, 142 

select hard*. 609 

syringing, 660 , 577 

Myrtles, 105, 206, 4:40 

Periwinkles as basket plants, 420 

table, 321 

not blooming, 348 

bedding and show, 18 

Periwinkles under trees, 309 

to bloom at Christmas, 5S7 

propagating, 166 

Cocoa fibre for, 155 

Persian Cyclamens, potting, 515 

two good table, 129 

N. 

exhibition, 39 
fancy, 28, 86, 508 

In cold seasons, 286 

in hot dry soils, 350 

in pot*, 683 

insects Id, 328, 840 

manure for, 256 

notes on, 590 • 

propagation of, 515 
sowing seed of, 615 

Petasites fra grans, 523,676 

Petunias, 235 

and Geraniums failing, 218 

under stages, 410 

watering pot, 418 

window, 320, 566 

winter bedding, 167 

winter blooming, 174, 217, 3S1 

"VTA RCISSI and Iris, 255 

JLN Narcissus bicolor Horsfleldi, 511 

double and single, 500 
double, varieties of, 507 
single, varieties of, 507 

wintering. 3SI 

wintering in cold frames, 301 
Platycodon grandiflOTum, 207 

propagating, 233 

striped. 225 

Pleroma elegans, 174 

Ploughs, garden. 11 

•Narcissus bulbocodlum, 130 

protecting. 429 

Phlox Drummond!, 73, 533 

Narcissus dubius, 550 

seedling, 153, 188 

•Phlox Drummond! grandiflora striata, 

Plum Denyer’s V ictoria. 199, 359 

•Narcissus Hoop Petticoat, 130 

show, 89, 508 

169 

double-blossomed, 3i’b 

Digitized by CjOOQ 

;le 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


VI1 


Plum trees in pots, 214 
Plumbago capensis, 138, 235, 31G 
chnns, 572 

Plums and Cherries, 572 
Plums, pruning, 161 
Plymouth Rock fowl-, 2«2, 330, 853 
•Poinaettla p<ilch«-rriina. 61 
Poinsettias, 51, 174, 322, 535 
PnLiiettl&s and Euphorbias, 150, 394 
Poison for slugs, 317 
Polyanthus Hos’ -in hose, 142, 145 
Primroses, 570 
striped, 581 

■ Polyanthus, striped seedling, 558 
Polyanthuses, 153, 548 
and Auriculas, 5*8 
and Primroses. 116, 117, 131, 142 
culture of 642 
Polygonum cu-pldatum, 372 
'Polygonum sachalieme, 3il 
Polygonum vacclnifoliuDi, *08 
Po>ypodlum dryopterts, 19 
Portulacas, 72, 372 
Post, the new parcels, 175 
Pot culture, Primroses h r, 570 
Pot Roses, pruning, 554 
Po'ato crop, the, 383, 399 
Potato culture, 618 
Potato, Myatt'a Prolific Kidney, 234 
Potato sets, 550 
cutting, 594 

Potato, the farm and garden, 252 
Potatoes, 31, 314, 504, 517, 572, 5c3 
early, U4 

for exhibition, 76, 2*29, 300 
frozen, 24 
late, 164 
lifting early, 248 
notes on, 874 
planting, 9, 644, 565 
raising new kinds of, 204 
scabby, 577 
storing, 340 
with lime, 144 
Potentilla, 220 
•Potenfcillas, 385 
Pots, china flower, 31 
Pots getting green, 292 
Pots, Irises in, 417 
Palms in, 573 
Pansies in, 583 
planting out, 551 
Potting, compost for, 677 
Potting-house, the, 362 
Potting of cuttings, 537 
Potting soil, 328 
Poultry, 13 

at dairy shows, 389 

cross-bred, 588 

diseased, 544 

farm, 100 

feeding, 26, 563 

feeding and rearing, 588 

for profit, 544 

for show, 131 

keeping, 5B8, 598 

keeping, commencing, 103, 156 

Ivy injurious to, 79 

leg weakness in, 598 

liver disease in, 134 

losing feathers, 60 

profitable, 26 

rearing, 668 

rearing and feeding, 563 
run for, 231 

seasonable notes on, 437 
Primrose, hardy while, 110 
Slebold’s, 96 

Primroses and Polyanthuses, 116, 117, 
131, 142 

Primrose, early, 558 
Evening, 313 
for pot culture, 570 
growing, 86 
our native, 570 
raising from seed, 658 
seedling plants of, 571 

* Primula demlculata. 571 
Primula japonica alba, 1 16 

* Primula rosea, 570 
Primula rosea, 671 
Primula seed, 104, 164 

saving, 564 
Primula Sieboldi, 901 
‘Primula Sleboldi, 57i 
Primula sinensis, 43 

sinensis and varieties, 505 
verticillata, 571 
4 Primula vulgaris, 570 
Primulas, 81, 98, 195. 246. 347, 551, 666 
Primulas, Chinese, 204, 236 
double, 506 
in winter, 217 
propagating double, 96, 120 
saving seeds of, 551 
seedling, 83 

Prince Consort Pear, Huyahe's, 507 
Prince's Feathers, 2 

Privet and Garrya elliptica, propaga¬ 
ting. 393 

Privet and ThornB, propagating, 549 
Privet, propagating, 549 
Profit, cropping for, 608 
Pear growing for, 628 
Profits on poultry. 544 
Profitable gardening, 362 
Propaaating flower garden plants, 287 
Propagating frame, a useful, 68 
Propagating hardy plants, 217 
notes on, 260 
perennials, 316 
Propagation, 256 
Propollsation of frames, 631 
Protector, paper as a plant, 75 
Prunella on lawns, 326 
Pruning, 519, 562 

. I 



Pruning fruit trees, 8,160, 518, 
root, 410 
vines, 566 
•Prunus triloba, 41 
Pterls scaberula, 381 
Purslanes, 372 

Vyracantha not fruitine, 549 
Pyracanthui failing, 144 
4 Pyrethrum uliginosum, 161 
P>rethrums. 220 

double, 162, 239, 244 
single, 507 

Pyrus japonica, treatment of, 613 
Pyrus mains fiorlbunda, 110 


\UAILS in aviary, 113, 140, 177 


R abbits, breeding, 177 

Patagonian, 545 
"Radish, long frame, 549 
Radishes, cultivation of, 550 
early. 650 
how to grow, 549 
summer, 550 
winter, 550 

‘Ranunculus, a florist's, 428 
Ranunculus, the, ‘290 
the douhie, 403 
Ranunc uluses, 428, 430 
Rare plants, 567 
Rare plants and slugs, 567 
Raspberries, autumn-bearing. SCO 
digging amongst, 540 
how to grow, 662 
planting, 224, 562 
soil for, 562 
training, 562 
varieties of, 662 
Rats in fernery, 577 
in gardens, 520 
Red Cabbage, pickling, 389 
Red spider, 111, 245 
and Apple trees, 305 
destruction of, 299 
Rhod&nthe masculata, 51 
Rhododendron, early, 683 
prtccox, 583 
seed of, 74 

Rhododendrons, 41, 220 
and Azaleas, 184, 814, 408 
cutting back, 110 
early, 583 
from seed, 340 
greenhouse. 623 
in heavy soil, 265 
neglected, 184 
propagation of, 623 
soil for, 523 
Rhubarb, 205, 505 
at Christmas, 875 
early forcing Ruby, 384 
forcing, 321 
in frames, 618, 527 
jam, 177 

Johnstone's St. Martins, 111 
seed sowing, 10 
•Ribes sanguineum, 119 
Richardia cethiopica, 634 
Ring doves, 853 

management of, 262 
Roads and walks, 16 
Robinla pseudacacia, 5 
•Rochea falcata, 104 
Rochea falcata, 246, 441, 516 
Rock garden and fernery, 94, 256 
Rockery, 300 

and fernery forming, 251 
and fernery hardy, 358 
plants for, 261 
Rogierl gratlssima, 534 
Roman Hyacinths, 870 
Roofs, ground glass for, 554 
Room plants, 5,107 

Rooms, flowers and plants in, 42, 52, 
74, 121, 128, 179. 217, 248, *37, 268, 
284, 302, 326, 338, 359, 373 

Rooms, flowers in, 22 
plants in, 84 

Root cropB, best soil for, 53S 
Root pruning, 410 
‘Rosa rugosa, 168 
Rcsa rugosa, 611 
Rose, a new Tea Sunset, 278 
conservatory, a, 284 
crimson, 47 
culture in pots, 209 
culture of the, 203 
cuttings, 400 
cutting, striking, 5, 316 
election, the, 661, 579 
enemies, 197 

Fdlicitd Perpetu6, 384, 401 
for the greenhouse, 236 
Gloire de Dijon, 293 
house for the, 107, 553 
La France, 378 
leaves diseased, 817 
leaves, fungus on, 270 
lists, 378 
maggots, 150 

MarOchal Niel, 5, 179. 859, 525 
Marshal Niel not flowering, 122 
Martchal Niel, pruning, 68 

I of Scotland, the red, 40 
stqpks, 137 


Rose, the Guelder, 897 
trees, guano for, 183 
Willliamss double yellow, 378 
'Rosemary, 76 
Rosery, the, 126 
Roses, 3, 83, 159, 382, 418 
a few words on, 71 
and climbers, 62 
and Geraniums,, 105 
and Rose stocks, 92 
assisting, 150 
autumn flowering. 92 
best soil for, 203, 315 
blighted, 293 
budding, 137, 213 
canker In,198 
China. 138 
Christmas, 28, 56 
‘Roses, Christmas, 357 
Roses, Christmas, 436, 547, 574 
cleansing, 159 
climbers and annuals, *28 
climbing, 9*, 179, 138. 384, 671 
deformed, 268 
dwarf standard, 40 
failing, 20£ 
for a greenhouse, 158 
for forcing, 226 
for greenhouse, 369 
for noith wall, 251 
for show, 40 
for walls, 338 

from cuttings, 137 , 213, 323, 349, 405 
from seed, 334 
fungus on, 198 
garden, 572 
Gloire de Dijon, 138 
grafting, 137 
green-fly on, 572 
hardy, 362 
guano for, 138 
how to make own-root, 213 
Hybrid Perpetual, 137 
In boxes. 436 
in greenhouse, 4,1S2, 626 
in London areas, 572 
in pots, 206, 563 
in town gardens, 138, 236 
in towns, 258, 324 
in vineries, 107 
In windows, 316 
in winter, 384 
increasing own root. 204 
indoor, 3 
insects in, 140 
manure for, 78, 595 
Marshal Kiel. 138 
mildew on, 198, 270 
Moss, 138, 324 
mulching, 150, 316 
objection to standard, 39 
old-fashioned town, 226 
on Brier stocks, 39, 86, 107, 168, 179, 
213 

on fences, 226 

on Manetti »tock, pruning, 57 
on walls, 167 
own roots, 28, 122 
pegging down, 58 
planting, 203 

planting and transplanting, 405 
position and soil for, 125 
pot, 378 

pruning, 125, 208, 691 
root pruning, 677 
selecting, 203 
single flowered, 158 
soli for, 563 
standard, 92, 121, 149 
thiuning, 203 
transplanting. 125 
varieties of, 563 
when and how to plant, 316 
white, 236, 270 
‘Rosmarium officinalis, 75 
Rotation of crops, 526 
Rustic seats and summer houses, 337 


S AGE, culture of, 526 
Saipiglnesis, 311 
Salsafy and Hoorzonera, 400 
Salsafy, wintering, 838 
Salvia Bethelli, 372 
patens, 372 

patens, wintering, 340, 346 
Salvias, 182, 346, 534 
Salvias and Veronicas, 300 
Salvias in winter, 218 
Sandwort, European, 142 
Saponaria calabrica, 304 
ocymordes, 207 
Sarracenia purpurea, 420 
Satin flower, 669 
culture of, 559 
varieties of, 669 
Savoury pudding, 402, 426 
Sawdust, 231 
Sawfly, 197 

Sax!fruga samientosa, 19, 501 
Wallace!, 208, 225 
8axifrages as bedding plants, 225 
Scale on Ferns, 316 
on Peach trees, 289 
on Pear trees, 88,122 
Scarlet Runners, 98 
sowing roots of, 411 
transplanting, 126 
Scent from flowers, 58 
*Schfzanthus retusus, 360, 861 
Schizoatylis coccinea, 394 


Scorzonora and Salsafy, 400 
Scotch Firs, moving, 221 
Scotland, hardy flowering gardening in, 
587 

Seakale, 505, 692 
blanching, 588 
culture of, 144 
roots of, 10 

Sea rand for plants, 352, 364 
Seaside planting, 71 
Seaside, plants for, 57, 69 
Seasonable notes, 567 
Seaweed and slugs, 351 
Seaweed in gardens, 173 
Sedums, 244 
Seed, Acacia^ from, 673 
Seed sowing in di y weather, 229 
Seedlings, raising 415 
Seeds, flower, from the Cape, 47 
for Australia, 608 
for borders, 73 

K lnaiing, 111 
on sowiiig, 85 
last year’s, 24 
raising, 11, 35 
raising small, 624 
saving and gathering, 336 
second year, 221 
sowing, 338. 564 
sowing tender, 34 
Selaginella denticuiata, 19 
Semperviren8, 244 
Senecio pulcher, 404, 641 
"September flowers, 803 
Sewage manure, 132 
Shading greenhouse, 263 
Shading plant house, 87 
‘Shallot, common, 301 
‘Shallot, Jersey, 013 
Shallots and Garlic, 301 
‘Shot plants, 33 
•Shrub for wall, 397 
Shrubberies, 183, 300, 382 
Shrubs, 392 
Shrubs and trees, 41 
evergreen, 27 
flowering, 94 
list of, 16 
planting, 15, 23 
propagating, 91 
selecting, 115 
transplanting, 91 
variegated, 27 

Shrubs, choice deciduous, 27 
flowering, 169, 283, 356 
for forcing, 265 
for seaside, 369 
for window boxes, 415 
forced, 105 

handsome evergreen, 432 
hardy, 3 

hardy for forcing, 397 
importance of thinning, 37 
planting near walks, 31 
pruning, 613 
•Shrubs, seaside, 183 
Silene pendula compacts, 304 
Siskin, unhealthy, 378 
Slsyrinchium grandlflorum, 669 
Slops for plauts, 165 
Slugs, 193, 402, 628, 567 
and rare plants, 567 
and seaweed, 351 
catching, 5 

destroying, in gardens, 320 
eating strawberries, 199, 240 
poison for, 317 
to destroy, 143 
aud ducks, 332 
and grubs, 340 
Smil&x, 554 

Small gardens and what to do with 
them, 604 

Smokeless hearing apparatus, 629 
Snapdragon, the, 210 
Snapdragons, 404 
culture of, 356 
Snowdrops, 39, 581 
and Crocuses, 304 
transplanting, 57 
•Snowflake, the Summer, 185 
Snowslip, protecting glasshouses from, 
613 

Societies, Cottage Garden, 127 
Soil for potting, 266, 828 
for window boxes, 661 
improving clay, 221, 230 
improving garden, 339 
Solanum capslcastrum, 431 
Solanums, 51, 182, 250, 610 
and Carnations, 300 
berry-bearing, 256, 347 
not fruiting, 421 
sowing, 624 

Solomon's Seal In greenhouse, 104 
in winter, 616 

•Somersetshire, a cottage in, 87 
Soot as manure, 187 
Soot water, 160, 164, 187, 189, 375 
Soot water for plants, 572 
Sorrel, culture of, 626 
Southernwood, 659, 676 
Sowing seeds, 564 
Sparaxls, 543 

Sparmannia africana, 106, 369, 564 
Sparrows and Pens, 667 
SparrowB. Java, 124 
Speedwells. 286 
Spinach, 312 
•Spinach, common, 234 
spinach for autumn, winter, and spring, 
234 

in small gardens, 88 
perpetual, 9 
•Spinsda oieracea, 234 
•fiplnea chADjecdrifoUft,^' 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



viii 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Spirica japonlca, 93, 394 
Splneas, 400, 502, 517 
*Spineal, shrubby, 85 
'Spire Lily, the, 536 
Spring Cabbages, 594 
Spring flowers, 74, 172, 215 
transplanting, 161 
Spring garden, arranging the, 103 
Spring, Tomatoes in, 595 
Stages, greenhouse, 45 
Staining floors, 251 
Standard Apple trees, 350 
Standard Fuchsias, 563 
*3tar of Bethlehem, 72 
Starlings and Cherry trees, 144 
statices, 170, 634 
Stephanotis and Gardenias, 74 
Stock, Snowflake, 101 
Virginian, 427 
Stocks, 583 

and Asters, 182 
Ten-week, 217, 255 
white, 372 

Stoking, hints on, 559 
Stonecrops, 244 
Stopping plants, 98 
Stove plants, 582 
Stoves, slow combustion, 221, 435 
Strawberries, 183, 207, 236, 320,592 
and Onions, 204 
beetles destroying, 666 
dying, 58 
for forciug, 152 
for pot culture, 214 
general culture of, 628 
grubs in, 161 
ia pots, 199 
layering, 199 
manure for, 539 
mulching, 181 
uot fruiting, 161 
planting, 237, 338, 350, 528 
protecting, 401 
slugs eating, 199 
soil for, 628 

summer treatment of, 594 
varieties of, 528 

♦Strawberry alpine, or Four-Season, 224 
Strawberry beds, bark on, 360 
manuring, 89S 
notes on, 398 
Strawberry bloom, 99 
Strawberry, crop of, 247, 528, 594 
La Grosse Sucree, 122 
plants for forcing, 221, 224 
Joseph Paxton, 260 
Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury, 152 
Subtropical garden, 106, 300 
■Subtropical plants, bed of in Hyde 
Park, 153 

Sulphate of ammonia, 317, 328, 340 
Summer flowera, 172, 319 
Sunflowers, large, 310, 372, 393 
Superlng, 166 
Superphosphate guano, 78 
Swans, black, 156 
management of, 156 
Sweet Brier hedges, 53 
Sweet Brier seeds, 340 
Sweet Briers, 349 
Sweet Peas, 324, 581 
•Sweet Sultans, 289 
Sweet Williams, cuttings of, 271 
Syringa, the common forced, 20 
Syringing plants, 677 


T. 


ABLE plants, 321 
Tagetes pumila, 356 
•i all herbaceous Phloxes, 581 
Tamarix tetrandra, 183 
Tankervilles, 378 
Tarragon, culture of, 526 
Tea Roses, protecting, 579 
pruuing, 579 
Teazle, culture of, 508 
Ten-week Stocks, 622 
Tench and perch, bait for, 353 
Tennis lawn, making a, 292 
Thorna and Privet, propagating, 549 
Thorns, propagating, 549 
Thoughts on garden design, 1 
Thrips, 411, 424 

in Cucumbers, 185 
Thuja Lobbi for hedges, 424 
Thyme, golden, 304 
Thyme in the flower garden, 244 
Tiles for edging, 46 
•Tritoma, 224 
Tobacco, British-grown, 89 
Tobacco for fumigating, 24 
Tomato, cuttingB of, 350 
how I grow the, 399 


Tomato plants, 106 
preserv e, 353 

* Tomato, the Capsicum, 192 
Tomatoes, 336 

all the year round, 192 
and Asparagus, forcing, 422 
cuttings of, 349 
in greenhouses, 332 
in open air, 218 
in spring, 595 
in varieties, 565, 570 
on walls and fences, 110 
sowing, 3L 
top-dressing, 54 
under glass, 229, 374 
watering. 227 
•Torch Thistle, 333 

Tortoise and toads v. slugs and snails, 
240 

Tortoise, feeding a, 353 
Tortoises, food for, 365 
In winter, 437 

Town garden, shrubs and trees for, 548 
Town garden, work in the, 4, 23, 75, 84, 
95, 106, 118, 128, 141, 161, 160, 171, 
183, 196, 207, 216, 227, 230, 247, 257, 
267, 288, 301, 313, 323, 336, 348, 383, 
395, 407, 418, 431 

Town garden, evergreen shrubs for, 649 
annuals and biennials iu, 267 
(fees and shrubs for, 548 
Transplanting Box, 600 
Tree Carnations, 533 
Tree Ferns, 666 
Trees and shrubs, 32, 41 
evergreen, 27 
flowering, 94 
hat of, 16 
planting, 15, 23 
propagating, 91 
selecting, 115 
transplanting, 92 
variegated, 27 
Trees in small gardens, 258 
Pansies under, 622 
planting fruit, S 

Trenching and double digging, 422 
Triteleia uniflora, 308 
Tritonias, 116, 287, 543 
Tropreulum azureum, 521 
dwarf, 142 

specloBum, 28, 89, 57, 93 , 269, 811, 
352, 681 

tricolor, 308, 621 
tuberosum, 647 
Tropicolums, 370 
culture of, 521 
for greenhouses, 22S 
training, 522 
tuberous, 521 

Tropteulums, winter-blooming, 440 
Tuberoses, 346, 405 
culture of, 537, 564 
uot flowering, 420 

Tuberous Begonias out-of-doors, 810 
Tubers and bulbs, 807 
Tulip, the, 290 
Tulips, 182, 307 

and Auriculas, 208 
covering for, 89, 131 
double, 307 
early for bedding, 307 
for pots, 367 
planting, 269 
taking up, 162 
Turkeys, 48 

’Turnip, Early Norwich, 127 
Early Paris Market, 164 
Early Purple-top Norwich, 193 
Turnip tops, 618, 565, 577 
Turnips, 236, 312 

ana their culture, 320 
early, 164, 586 
for winter, 144 

•Turnips. Golden Ball, Jersey Navet, 
Chirk Castle, Blackstone, Jersey 
Lily, American Strap-leaf, Early 
Red Norwich, Snowball, 321 
Tussilago fragrans, 622 


U. 


U NHEATED greenhouse, the, 25?, 263, 
273, 297, 307, 319 


V. 


Y ALLOT A purpurea, 5, 235, 287, 411 
Vallotas, 41 

l Tuberoses and Bouavardias, 381 
I Vases and Baskets, 343, 404 


Vases or rustic baskets, 392 
winter, 561 

Vegetable crops, prices of, 186 
Vegetable Marrows, 18, 211 
and Gourds, 123 

Vegetables, 4, 23, 74, 84, 94, 128, 257, 
347 383, 501 

Vegetable* and fruit preserving, 185 
and salads, early forced, 604 
crops between fruit trees, 686 
early, 154 

for exhibition, 44, 527 
for winter, 247 
forced, 583 
harvesting, Ac., 227 
healing material for, 517 
hoeing among, 196 
in succession, 126 
insects in, 185 
large, 435 
manuring, 1S3 
pits and frames for, 617 
planting, 171 
sowing and thinning, 207 
sowing, 236 
storing, 371 
suitable soils for, 517 
thinning, 110 

Veltheimia veridifolia, 308 
•Venedium calendulaceum, 344, 345 
Ventilating and heating, 344 
Ventilating greenhouses, 526 
Ventilation, 419 
Verandah, enclosing a, 411 
♦Verbascum phumiceum, 285 
Verbenas from seed, 2 
manure for, 586 
Veronicas, 170, 286, 287, 534 
and Salvias, 300 

Villa Garden, the, 1,15, 27, 37, 49, 71, 91, 
101, 116, 125, 137, 147, 157, 171, 186, 
191, 209, 220, 223, 233, 243, 336, 343, 
362, 367, 386, 407, 505, 534, 553,605, 
595 

Vine border, remaking a, 289 
renovating, 214 
watering, 237 
Vine in tub, 364 

laterals and tendrils of, 270 
manure for, 639 
rods, insects in, 59 
the Grape, 422 

Vinegar for pickling, 556, 598 
to make, 13 
to make a cheap, 598 
Vineries, Tomatoes in, 570 
Vinery, covering back walls of, 396 
Tomatoes in, 565 
treatment of cold, 101 
Vines, 30. 52, 74,118, 140, 216, 246, 250, 
266, 288, 312, 322, 382, 400, 418, 692 
Vines and Vine culture, 180 
blight on, 314 
early, 94, 406, 430 
from eyes, 77 
ground bones for, 594 
in pots, 360 
in tubs, 300 
in verandah, 424 
late, 94. 347 
late and early, 3 
mealy bug on, 289 
mid-season, 430 
mildew on, 270, 271, 530, 553 
Muscat and Lady Downs, 227 
names of, 360 
not breaking well, 507, 528 
planting, 374, 375, 434, 60S 
pruning, 566, 560 
pruning and training, 423 
treatment of, 434 
watering, 199 
young, 395 

Viola and Pansy cuttings, 11G 
Viola Blue Bell, 207 
Violas, 304, 660 

and other bedding plants, 3 
and PanBies, 215, 560 
aud Pansies, propagating, 286 
decaying, 268 
for bedding, 345 
good, 286 
three distinct, 225 
I Violets. 227 

and how to grow them, 416 
Dog's-tooth, 372 
for winter bloom, 93, 244 
how I grow, 5S1 
In September, 194 
iu winter, 309, 218, 516 
not blooming, 544 

; Virginian Creepers, Veltch’s, 229 
! Virginian Creepers aud Clematis, pro¬ 
pagating, 349 

I Virginian Creepers in autumn, 359 
Virginian Creepers, pr .pagating, 348 
1 •Virgin’s Bower, 871 


W. 


W ALKS, 59 

and flower beds, 436 
and lawns, 266 
and roads, 16 
cleaning, 436 
loose gravel on, 240 
weeds on, 200, 435 
Wall plants, 11 
Wall shrubs, evergreen, 512 
Wallflowers, 357, 582 
in autumn, 417 
single, in autumn, 429 
Walls, copings for, 508, 529 
covering in Vinery, 396 
for fruit trees, 161 
fruits for, 152 
plants for, 120, 344 
Wardian cases. Ferns in, 581 
Wasps and Dahlias, 375 
Wasps, destroying, 315 
in beehives, 294 
iu gardens, 339 
stings, cure for, 214 
Water, drawing from a well, 433 
Water Lilies, culture of, 293 
Water, management of, 49 
Watercress, culture of, 520 
Watercresses, 351 
Watering aud mulching, 291 
Watering crops, 123 
Watering pot plants, 418 
Waterproofing calico, 47 
Wax grafting, 6 
Weed, a troublesome, 424 
Weeds, 195 

destroying, 337 
on walks, 200, 435 
Weedy garden, a, 261 
•Weigella, white, 220 
'Weigelia hortensis nivea, 229 
•Wild garden, the, 121 
•Windflower, the Japanese, 245 
5Window and balcony boxes, 392 
Window boxes, 129, 141, 403 
annuals and shrubs for; 416 
soil for, 561 

Window cases, plants for, 11 
Window gardening in London, 514 
notes on, 403, 416, 427 
Windows, Palms in, 692 
plants for. 288, 326, 660 
Calla athiupica in, 535 
Call as in, 514 
Cyclamens in, 534 
Winter, AbutllonB in, 573 
Winter arrangements and effects, 91 
Winter bedding, 167 
Winter beddiDg plants, 157 
Winter bloom for greenhouse, 4 4 
Winter-blooming plants, 174, 217 
Winter flowers for greenhouse, 33 
Winter, preparing for, 322 
Solomon’s,Seal in, 516 
vases for, 501 
Violets in, 516 
Wireworms, 251, 271 
Wistaria not blooming, 131 
Wistaria sinensis, 158 
Wood ashes, 11 
as manure, 12 
Woodlico, 111, 678 
in frames, 24 
in greenhouse. 375 
iu Mushroom bed, 411 
in Vinery, 251 

Work in the town garden. 52, 95, 106, 
118, 128, 141, 151, 160. 171, 183, 196, 
207, 216, 227, 236, 247, 257, 267, 2S8, 
301, 313, 323, 336, 348, 355, 369, So3 
395, 407, 418, 431 
Worms and plants, 188 
In lawns, 35 

In lawns, to destroy, 163 


Y. 


Y arrow in lawns, 375 

Yew, Golden, 230 
Yew tree, moving old, 110 
Yew trees, old, 424 
Young canaries, food for, 59S 
Yuccas, 258, 337 


Z 


Z EA japonica variegata, 610 
Zinnias and Asters, 510 


Digitized by Google 


Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. V. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

( Continued from page 563.) 

Saleotingf the Bite. —It is possible to make 
the poorest soil fertile, but it is a long, expensive 
operation, and in selecting the site for a villa 
residence, if one is fond of gardening, some con¬ 
sideration should be given to the character of 
the soil, as on a good soil the gardening opera¬ 
tions may not only be more extended in 
character, but they will give more satisfaction. 
In fact, if we garden on very bad land we shall 
be shut out from the higher flights of open air 
gardening, which, after all, is the most enjoyable. 
We may quote Cowper, and say, •« Who loves a 
garden loves a greenhouse too,” with perfect 
truth ; but gardening in the open air is the 
healthiostand pleasantest, as well as the least ex¬ 
pensive, and much more may be done with trees, 
shrubs, and hardy plants generally than has yet 
been attempted in most gardens. 

Three main requisites to successful gardening 
are a good deep soil, sheltered from biting winds, 
and an atmosphere free from impurities, or at 
least nearly so. And happy is the man who can 
secure a combination of these three on the same 
site. Too often if we obtain good soil we are 
blown to pieces by the winds, and nearly always 
in the neighbourhood of large towns the atmo¬ 
spheric question is a serious one, and pnts a limit 
to the number of plants that can be grown with 
success, and I hold it to be the merest folly to 
attempt to grow a plant that experience has 
shown cannot do more than pass a lingering 
existence in that particular situation. In all 
gardening there is yet something to learn as 
regards the right things to plant in one 
given situation, and this matter perhaps will not 
be altogether put right until those most directly 
interested take it up and work it out for them¬ 
selves. Rule of thumb men, deeply steeped in 
preconceived notions, seldom get out of the 
deep groove they and their fathers have made 
for themselves. If the track is to be broken up 
and a new departure made, the chief impetus 
must come from without. Though good soil is 
essential in all-round gardens, yet there is no soil 
so bad but something may be made to thrive in 
it, and no atmosphere so murky but some living 
plant will adapt itself to it, and success in 
gardening is often a question of adapting means 
to ends, and in finding out what we can and 
what we cannot do, and though the experience of 
others will be a great help to us, yet so varied 
are the conditions under which we work that in 
the main each one for himself has to work 
out his own position, and find that eternal fitness 
of things for which all men are striving, but 
which is sometimes so difficult to explain or point 
out. 

Next in importance to the soil being of fair 
gardening quality (a light loam being the bes 
for most things and clay the worst), comes the 
question of shelter from winds. The motion of 
the atmosphere, when not too violent, is beneficial 
to most things, but where the currents are 
fierce and frequent, the list of plants that are 
capable of resisting their force is limited. Still, 
though limited in number, if made use of in the 
right way, shelters can quickly be created, 
and here again comes in the question of 
adapting mean3 to ends, as the sheltering beds 
or groups that would suit one position would not 
fit in everywhere. A very exposed position on 
the top of a hill might require elaborate pre¬ 
parations, but I have never seen a position but 
might be sheltered from cold cutting winds 
if set about in I he right way. In situations 
where it is important that shelter should be 
quickly raised, a mound might be thrown up on 
the windward side and planted with wind-re¬ 
sisting plants. On the outer margin might be 
planted a thick verge of the common Gorse. The 
margin need not be of the same width through¬ 
out, but it should possess a sufficient depth to 
arrest and lift up the swift current of air, 
robbing it at the same time of its icy coldness. 
Inside the Gorse might come a belt of Austrian 
Pine, among which may he thinly planted the 
Huntingdon Elm. The Gorse and the Pines 
alone might suffice in some cases, and in others 
the Elms would be sufficient, and the latter bear 

Digitized by GOOgle 


MARCH 3, 1883. 


pruning so well, and are tough and elastic, not 
easily splintered by the wind. There are other 
trees that may be employed for this purpose 
— the Wyeh Elm, the Lime, and the Ash-leaved 
Maple all bear pruning until a dense habit 
capable of offering a great resistance to the 
wind is created. There are many ways of shel¬ 
tering ourselves and our dwellings from rough 
winds, but there is nothing equal to a long wall 
of tree or shrub growth. A stout, thick Thorn 
hedge is better than a brick or stone wall for 
sheltering tender plants from cutting winds. 
The hedge or belt of trees being open and elastic, 
the wind becomes entangled, and its force 
broken and scattered, whilst the swift, current 
simply rebounds from the harsh, stubborn, un¬ 
yielding surface of the wall, and starts again 
with a fresh impetus added to its force. 

Thoughts on Garden Design. 

The uppermost impression on my mind is that 
villa gardens are needlessly expensive in de¬ 
sign, and that the cost of after keeping is 
increased by over-elaboration at the outset. 
This must he taken of course as a general state¬ 
ment. There are exceptions, which are usually 
the reflections of superior individual minds 
brought to bear upon their gardens. There are 
villas and villas, but the vicarage garden comes 
nearest to my idea of what an average villa 
garden should be for real comfort and happiness. 
The evidences of refined thought which com¬ 
monly abound in the average rectory garden, 
the free use that is made of trees and shrubs, 
the freedom of treatment which is the natural 
outcome of much thought unfettered by precon¬ 
ceived notions, produces a pleasing whole. The 
gardens of the present day are most of them 
too stiff, too formal, to give pleasure to the 
calmest thinking man who goes to nature for 
his models. But the average man is an imitator ; 
it saves trouble to do as others are doing rather 
than think out a course for ourselves. Hence it 
follows that there is such adearth of originality. 
Where in laying out a garden the tendency is 
towards extravagance, the result is seldom com¬ 
mensurate with the outlay. Extravagance never 
gives pleasure for any length of time; the idea 
is sure to crop up in the mind when the novelty 
has worn off—is the game worth the candle ? 
And the answer nearly always is in the negative. 
The pleasantest gardens are those which present 
a series of pretty pictures separate and distinct, 
and yet blending harmoniously, and the garden 
must be very small which does not permit of 
this beiDg done. It is delightful to have a lawn 
of closely shaven tuif running up to the 
windows, failing away and losing itself in 
vistas and glades through shrnbs and the 
branches of trees. Then, again, how nice it 
will be to penetrate these openings in the 
shrubs and trees, and discover the rockery, the 
fernery, and other phases of culture which a 
garden of only very moderate extent may 
possess. 

Of late years too much use has been made of 
bright flowered exotics. Every bit of level 
ground has been laid out in geometrical figures, 
and every mound or bit of rising ground has 
been scarped into terraces with their accompa¬ 
nying architectural features, which has spoiled 
many a country residence by destroying its re¬ 
pose. The simplest designed garden is generally 
the most pleasing. Trees and shrnbs in variety 
are always pleasant features, and so much can 
be made of them by a thoughtful, skilful de¬ 
signer. The great evil of amateur work in garden 
designing is from the want of knowledge of the 
materials employed ; trees and shrubs are often 
wrongly placed. But still, with all the draw¬ 
backs arising from this and other causes, I think 
the owners of gardens might with advantage 
make their influence more felt. To do this, of 
course with effect, they must take more interest 
in their gardens— must become acquainted with 
the plants and their wants. And no matter in 
bow small or simple a manner we may begiD, 
when we have wrought among and studied the 
materials, more or less effective combinations 
will grow out of it, in the same way as a tiny 
plant may grow into a large spreading mass, 
assuming fresh forms and outlines with every 


No. 208. 


change of season. It is a common thing for a 
person to take up a thing—gardening, for in¬ 
stance-somewhat languidly, and before much 
progress is made something occurs that arouses 
fresh interest in the matter in hand; the lethargy 
—the feeling of ennui —wears off, and we view 
not only this one particular thing, but all others, 
in a different light. Now, this is the feeling I 
am anxious to inspire, but it is never wise to 
begin too lavishly at first; for lavish expenditure 
when applied to gardening, unless the means are 
unlimited, very often when the inevitable reac¬ 
tion sets in gives rise to feelings akin to disgust. 

Flowers there must and may be at all seasons, 
in even the smallest gardens. Well-cared cot¬ 
tage gardens even are rarely altogether flower¬ 
less, unless sealed up with frost in winter. It is 
pleasant to see a roomy old-fashioned house 
embowered in trees, with pleasant patches of 
green undulated turf beneath the windows, not 
dotted over witli flower-beds, as was till lately 
too much the fashion, but free and open for the 
children to romp and play on. Here and there 
trees and shrubs and groups of flowers may 
grow out of it, but not in formal masses, and its 
boundaries should be as free and informal as 
are the tangled creepers growing up the walls 
and over the verandah of the house itself. There 
should, of course, be order and method even in 
a garden like this. The swaying branch of the 
creeper must have a limit assigned to it, or the 
wall may be stripped of its covering. All the 
difference between the natural and the severely 
formal is—in the one case every shoot and leaf 
must fill its special place, and in the other only 
security from wind is sought. Beyond all is free, 
and the grace, motion, and life which this free¬ 
dom gives is pleasant to witness. Bnt this is 
only one phase of gardening, and all men's 
minds are not framed alike any more than their 
faces, and there is room for working out every 
shade and variety of opinion. And the more 
thought there is brought to bear upon any 
business the better. As regards formal or 

Geometric Gardening', 

That eternal “fitness of things” to which I 
have already alluded will find and suggest 
many a place where it can be appropriately 
carried out. In small gardens, where the out¬ 
lines are formal, there must of necessity be 
straight lines, and the geometrical pattern fits 
in so easily with a square house; bnt even in this 
case sharp points and corners should be avoided 
as much as possible, 83 they contribute neither 
grace nor beauty to the scene. A house or 
building of any kind without tree furniture has 
always a bare and barren look about it, and 
whoever adopts the geometric style of gardening 
must bear in mind it is more expensive than 
where one can set out beds and borders by 
simply trailing a long rope behind one as we 
walk around the place, and mark out the beds, 
borders, and walks, by driving down stakes on 
the rope’s sinuous course. It is the custom in 
building the villa house to place the house in 
the centre of the grounds, but when the place is 
limited in extent this is not always wise, as 
it cuts up the ground so much and contracts the 
gardener’s efforts. A better plan would be to 
place the house further back, or to so select the 
site as to give more scope for creating a deeper, 
more extensive view from the windows. There 
mnst of necessity be room behind for the offices, 
but if a good part of the ground was in front of 
the house, the surface could be so arranged as to 
give greater apparent extent without sacrificing 
either appearance or utility. There would thus be 
more privacy, and room might be found in front 
and on the flanks for fruit and vegetables, if it 
was not thought desirable to give up so much 
space for merely ornamental purposes. Apples 
and Pears, Asparagus and Strawberries might be 
elevated in character, and perhaps better culti¬ 
vated, by promotion to a moie prominent posi¬ 
tion. In building a villa residence where the 
garden was thought worthy of being made a 
special feature of, there may be circumstances 
under which it would be desirable not only to 
put back the house, but to alter its position from 
right to left, or wherever the best effects could 
be obtained, taking advantage of the formation of 





2 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED [March 3, 1883. 


the ground. I have known villas so badly placed 
as to be cramped in front, whilst behind there 
was plenty o£ room. 

I merely throw ont this hint, not with the 
view of dictating to anyone, but as a suggestion 
out of which something might perhaps grow. 
Intricate patterns that may attract attention on 
paper generally lose some of their beauty when 
laid down in the garden, and the difficulties of 
planting such patterns satisfactorily are very 
considerable; therefore I should advise all geo¬ 
metrical gardens attached to villa residences 
should be simple in design. Intricacy or em¬ 
broidery always adds to the first cost, as well as 
to the annual expense of keeping. Perhaps 
this additional cost might be borne if it con¬ 
tinued to give pleasure, but this rarely happens, 
and I would strongly advise all who really love 
flowers, and want to enjoy them in their gardens 
in all stages of their growth, to have the outlines 
of the garden as simple and flowing a3 possible, 
that both the eye and the mind may love to 
dwell npon it; and having done this, to specially 
care for the beds and borders that are to receive 
the living occupants of the garden. 

E. Hobday. 

(To be continued.) 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


Love-lies-bleeding and Prince's 
Feather.— Several varieties of Amarantus are 
extremely effective in the summer flower garden, 
but on this occasion I shall only allude to two, 
viz, A. caudatus (Love-lies-bleeding) and A. 
hypochondriac us (Prince’s Feather). The latter 
in good soil grows 6 feet high, and produces its 
erect plume-like flowersin great profusion. Given 
plenty of space for full development, this kind 
makes a strikingly effective bed; but perhaps 
the best of all positions for it is as a pot plant 
in large basket beds. We have also used it 
alternately with Humes elegans, the light 
feathery flower-stems of which show off to the 
greatest advantage the more formal and stiff 
plumes of the Amarantus. A. caudatus, as its 
name implies, produces long drooping racemes 
of flowers frequently 30 inches in length ; under 
good cultivation the plant will grow 4 feet high 
and erect, but the heavy inflorescence renders it 
necessary to keep it tied to supports. Treated 
in this manner it makes an excellent front or 
outer line to large beds of Cannas, and is un¬ 
equalled for basket-bed planting, near the outer 
edge of course, in order that the long racemes 
of flowers may droop over the sides, and when 
thus used no supports are needed. Seeds sown 
in a warm frame or greenhouse any time during 
March, and the young plants pricked off into 
small pots two or three together as soon as they 
can be handled will make large plants by the 
middle of May, at which time they may safely 
be transferred to the open ground.—W. 

BambOOB.— It may, I think, be taken for 
granted that any Bamboos that safely withstood 
the severity of the winter of 1880-81 are hardy, 
and to this class belong, at least so far as this 
part of the country (Hampshire) is concerned, 
Bambusa Fortunei, Fortnnei variegata, and 
Metake. These were all somewhat injured, but 
in spring they threw up fresh stems from the 
roots as vigorously as if there had been no frost 
whatever, and many of the old canes had only a 
few of the weakest, unripe branches destroyed; 
therefore, being so hardy, their culture deserves 
to be largely extended, particularly for sub¬ 
tropical purposes. Metake makes a good central 
plant for a large bed of Cannas, and it likewise 
does well in a permanent position on a lawn, as 
do also the other two varieties. They require a 
deep, rich loam and plenty of moisture ; hence 
waterside positions are best for them. They 
are increased by division of the roots in spring. 
They are long in recruiting the injury caused 
by transplantation, and therefore this should 
be rarely practised. Old established plants may 
be divided by means of a sharp edging iron, 
digging out the severed portions, and filling in 
the cavities thus made with good soil.—W. 


Lobelia fulgena. —This is one of the 
brightest of hardy flowers, and owing to its 
blooming in late summer and autumn, forming, 
when well-grown, masses of scarlet, it may be 
usefully employed with the ordinary run of 
tender bedding plants. It has an excellent 
effect in the centre of a bed surrounded by some¬ 
thing of dwarfer growth and co: 


gill 




contr isti 


with it 


in colour. March is a good time for planting, 
and to ensure good blooms the soil should be 
well stirred and well manured, as the Lobelias 
like plenty of nutriment when in full growth.— 

Byfleet. 

Verbenas from seed. —Where the Ver¬ 
bena has been found to fail grown in the ordi¬ 
nary manner from cuttings, I would advise a 
trial of seedling plants to be made. Seedlings 
possess much greater vigour of constitution, and 
are consequently far less liable to be attacked 
or crippled by mildew. The present is a 
good time to sow the seed, which requires a 
temperature of 60° for its free germination.— 
Byfleet. 

Malope triflda. —As the time is at hand 
when all kinds of hardy annuals should be sown, 
a word in favour of this old, but beautiful, Mai- 
vaceous plant may be acceptable. It is one of 
about four species belonging to a genus of 
annuals, natives of the south of Europe, chiefly 



Spain and Portugal. M. triflda grows from 1 foot 
to 3 feet high, and lias a spreading habit of 
growth. The flowers, which are plentifully pro¬ 
duced somewhat late in the summer, are Mallow¬ 
like and of a fine crimson colour, pencilled with 
dark vein9. There is a white variety (alba) also 
very pretty, and another, called grandiflora, 
which is much superior to the type, and which 
should always be preferred. The flowers of 
this variety measure 2£ inches to 3 inches across, 
and are of a bright crimson-pnrple. M. mala- 
coides is the other kind in cultivation ; it is 
similar to the others, the flowers being a bright 
rose and produced in profusion. These Malopes 
are all of the simplest culture, merely requiring 
to be sown in the open border in the end of 
March or beginning of April. The soil in which 
they thrive best is a rich, moist, and somewhat 
light loam, and the young plants should be well 
thinned out, in order that they may have ample 
space in which to develop themselves. 

Bocconia cordata.— This hardy peren¬ 
nial in deep sandy loam grows to a height of 8 
feet. The foliage is large and deeply serrated, 
and the flowers, which are produced on panicles 
on the upper portions of the stems, are of a 
whitish brown colour, and under favourable 
conditions as to shelter from wind continue in 
a flowering state from July to the end of Sep¬ 
tember, a fact that justifies its being placed 
amongst the very best of the taller growing 
section of hardy flowering plants. It is well 
adapted for planting in large masses in the back 
lines of herbaceous borders, but undoubtedly 
seems more at home on turf, something after 
the way in which the Pampas grass is generally 
planted, i.e., in separate tufts in front of shrub¬ 
beries to break or relieve the ofttimes unavoid¬ 
able formality of straight lines. For the “ wild 
garden” it is in every way suited, for the less the 
roots are disturbed, the better the plant grows. 
It is increased by division, which requires to be 


done with great care, the best time being just 
as the plant is starting into growth. 

9272.— Bedding r. show Pansies.— In 
reply to the query referring to the above, I may 
say for the information of “ T. W.” that at the last 
flower show in this town I took the two first prizes 
offered for Pansies, and in both lots I had abloom 
of Bluestone as a blue self. The show was judged 
by three first-class judges. I have also Sunny 
Park Rival, which I consider twice as good as 
the above, but I stopped it rather too near the 
show day, and the blooms were a little too late. 
Bluestone is an excellent bedder, being very 
hardy and very floriferous. Sunny Park Rival 
has been universally praised by all who have seen 
the blooms, but it is a poor bedder with me, and 
must be grown in pots in a frame to have it at 
its best here. I must certainly agree with Mr. 
Walters on the latter being a show variety, and 
one of if not the very best blues ; in fact, I have 
seen none to equal it. The judges mentioned as 
being “two thorough good florists” ought to 
have pointed out the reason why they considered 
them bedders, as there were several exhibitors 
who staged those varieties. 1 have looked in several 
catalogues, and Sunny Park Rival is mentioned 
as being the best show blue self yet sent out, and 
itgot first prize as the finest blue self at the Edin¬ 
burgh show in 1880. So I will leave “ T. W.* to be 
his own judgein the matter. Bluestone is in nearly 
every catalogue I get hold of as a show variety. 
If I had been one of those disqualified I should 
have lodged an objection with the committee, if 
only to call attention to it. I should like to re¬ 
commend Inspector and Lady Walden as good 
yellow grounds, Mrs. Galloway and The Mede 
good white grounds, Locomotive, James Fergie, 
and Garry as dark seifs, and Grand Duchess a 
splendid cream self in hot weather.—P. Rain- 
ford, Wigan. 

- In answer to this query, allow me to in¬ 
form “ T. W.” that, as an exhibitor of Pansies, 
I have never seen bedding Pansies disqualified 
as either show' or fancies; but since the rapid 
improvement in both kinds, there is no telling 
beforehand what judges may do. Bluestone and 
Sunny Park Rival both possess a blotch, and 
each lias only one colour in the body, which, 
in the opinion and consistent practice of a very 
eminent judge I have met, is sufficient distinc¬ 
tion for all practical judging to qualify them 
as show Pansies. Unless I am mistaken, Blue- 
stone is mentioned in the raiser’s catalogue as 
a show and bedding Pansy, and Sonny Park 
Rival as a show, but judges cannot be guided by 
contradictory catalogues, and the above is a 
very simple solution of the difficulty.—B. H. L. 

- Certainly the judges were wrong in dis¬ 
qualifying the stands containing the blue seifs 
(Bluestone and Sunny Fark Rival), for without a 
doubt they are about the two best blues we 
possess among the show kinds. The same thing 
happened to myself last year at our Pansy show. 
I was disqualified in three stands for showing 
Bluestone; nevertheless I intend showing it 
again this year, to convince the judge he was 
wrong last year. I will in a future paper give 
the points of show and also fancy Pansies for 
the good of amateurs.— Geo. Henderson, 
Halam , near Southwell. 

9337 — Gladioli not flowering.— The plan 
which I have adopted with success for some 
years past on a heavy, wet clay soil is as follows : 
The bed is dug and manured as usual. Some 
time in April I scoop out with the trowel as many 
round holes as are required, each about 12 inches 
deep, and as narrow as possible. I then fill np 
the holes for 6 or 7 inches with sand with which 
I have mixed a very small quantity of old dry 
manure. The bulbs are put on the top of this, 
and the holes are filled up with sand and loose 
dry earth. Occasionally during summer some 
liquid manure is given, but only in dry weather. 
The commoner and hardier bulbs always suc¬ 
ceed, and it is only the finer kinds that succumb 
to the damp.—P. R. 

9323.- Propagating Clematises.— The 

garden varieties of Clematis are usually propa¬ 
gated by grafting on the common kind (Clematis 
vitalba) by the method termed cleft-grafting. 
They may also be increased by cuttings of the 
half-ripened wood put in during July or August. 
A very successful way of striking them is to take 
young shoots off plants in pots, which have been 
put in a growing temperature for two or three 
weeks ; these shoots strike root readily, and soon 
form good plants. The chief thing to guard 


March 3, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


3 


against is damping off, bnt when once struck the 
danger is over. The herbaceous kinds are, of 
course, multiplied by division of the roots.— 
A. H. C. Watson, Caytharne. 

9326.—Common Honesty.—This is a biennial, and 
cannot be induced to flower and produce seed pods the 
same year as sown. Seeds should be sown in May to get 
strong plants to bloom the following spring.—A. D. 

9332.- Single Dahlias—These will bloom well in 
any fairly good garden soli to which some manure i3 
added. Plants made from cuttings struck in warmth may 
be planted out at the end of May, and seed sown now in 
heat will give scores of plants to go out in May also. 
—A. D. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 


Extract* from a Garden Diary.—March 5 to 10. 

Pruning and nailing Tears. Digging vacant ground- 
Thinning Grapes. Painting Vines in late houses. Props* 
gating bedding plants. Pruning and nailing Mardcna* 
Mel Rose and Clematis. Earthing up Potatoes in frames- 
Propagating Verbenas. Emptying Cucumber house of 
winter plants and getting fresh plants in. Filling bed in 
Cucumber house with manure for Molons. Looking over 
Apples in fruit room. Sorting Potatoes for growing for 
exhibition. Sowing Begonia and Amarantus seed, and 
potting Palms. Earthing up Peas in boxes in cold houses. 
Laying turf in hotbed for Melons 4* inches thick. Pre¬ 
paring Strawberries for forcing. Sowing first batch of 
White Spanish Onions, also of Tom Thumb and summer 
Cos Lettuce between the Onions. Sowing cold frame with 
Savory, Marjoram, and Sweet Basil. Sowing Peas in 
pot* for starting in cold houses ; also sowing first batch 
of Bruasols Sprouts and Cauliflowers out-of-doors. 
Getting In soil for planting Cucumbers. Pruning Apple 
trees. 


Flower Garden. 

Bulbous Plants, such as Hyacinths, 
Tulips, and Narcissi, as well as hardy shrubs 
used for flowering in pots, do not require much 
forcing after this time, os they naturally come 
into bloom under glass without much fire heat; 
and where there is any deficiency of the ordinary 
spring-flowering greenhouse stock to keep up 
the requisite supply of bloom to follow the 
forced plants, a portion of bulbs and other hardy 
subjects may with advantage be kept back by 
giving them no more warmth than that afforded 
by greenhouse treatment. The indifferent usage 
which forced bulbs frequently receive after 
flowering makes them of little use subsequently ; 
whereas if fairly cared for. Tulips, Narcissi, 
Crocuses, and even Hyacinths answer well for 
outdoor cultivation. With their foliage soft and 
tender, consequent on the forcing to which they 
have been subjected, they are often at once put 
out in the open air; whereas if turned out into 
a bed of prepared good soil in a frame and well 
attended to until their growth stands a chance 
of getting matured, they will do good service in 
after years planted where they are to remain. 

Hardy shrubs. —These also are often badly 
used when they have done blooming under glass. 
Lilacs and Laurustines, especially such of these 
as have been prepared for pot culture along with 
double Prunus, Ghent and the mollis varieties of 
Azalea and Rhododendrons, should have a place 
iu a pit or any spare structure where their growth 
can be fairly matured before being exposed to 
the open air. Deutzia gracilis should, if room 
can be found, be kept in warmth, such as that 
afforded by a vinery at work, until the wood is 
bard and the next year’s flower-buds visible. 

Camellias. —As these go out of flower they 
should, if affected with white or brown scale, at 
once be cleared from it, as it will increase apace 
under the warmer treatment to which the plants 
ought to be subjected whilst making their growth. 

I have found nothing better to assist them during 
the time when growth is beiDg made than soot 
tater, which not only has an invigorating effect 
and improves the size and colour of the leaves, 
hut also banishes wormB from the soil, should 
these be present. A little shade will now be 
beneficial to those that are making growth, and 
also to those that are in bloom, as the flowers 
will not last long if subjected to bright sunshine. 
Id the case of examples that are turned out in 
beds as well as in pots or tubs, be careful that 
the whole of the Boil is sufficiently moist, for 
Camellias more than most plants cannot endure 
draught at the root, particularly whilst their 
lowers are opening and their growth is being 
unde. 

Azaleas. —Such of these as have been forced 
to come in during the winter and have done 
blooming should immediately they are out of 
lower have the seed-pods picked off, as the 
production of seed exhausts the plants even 
more than the flowers. If t^ey are at once 

Digitized by GOOglC 


placed in a little heat, and kept growing until 
their bloom-buds are fully formed, the time of 
their flowering next season can be accelerated. 
The course here advised is different from that of 
keeping the plants after flowering fora time in 
an ordinary, dry, cool greenhouse temperature, 
and then placing them out-of-doors early in the 
summer with the season’s shoots only partially 
matured. So managed they will bloom in a 
certain way, but the fact of Azaleas flowering at 
all under such treatment only shows their 
accommodating nature; the growth and bloom 
so produced are extremely meagre and poor 
compared with that which is attainable under 
more liberal management. In all cases care 
should be taken that the plants before being 
started into growth are quite free from their 
worst enemy, thrips. Tobacco water is the safest 
and best remedy out of the many I have tried 
for the destruction of these pests and their eggs. 
It is much better not to shift any plants that, 
require potting until the young shoots have 
made some progress, as the roots of Azaleas do 
not begin to move nearly so early as the top 
growth. Plants required for late blooming, to 
come in say at the end of May and the following 
month, should now be moved to a north house, 
and kept as cool as possible without subjecting 
them to absolute frost. 

Lilies. —Any of these that have been wintered 
in cellars and under plant stages should, imme¬ 
diately the shoots appear above the soil, be 
placed in a light position, or they will become 
diawn and weak, a condition that no after treat¬ 
ment can rectify. See that the soil is sufficiently 
moist, but not too much so. The different 
varieties of L. speciosum, L. auratum, and a few 
others as soon as they begin to grow do well in 
a cold pit where they can be kept near the glass. 
In this way they make strong, sturdy growth, 
calculated to flower well. L. eximium, than 
which there is no more useful species, coming in 
as it does before the other kinds, should be grown 
by all who have a greenhouse. From this time 
forward it will bear a little warmth if its early 
flowering is desired. It is most serviceable when 
two or three good strong bulbs are grown 
together in a 7-inch or 8-inch pot. T. B. 

Violas and other bedding plants.— 

Where spring bedding is not practised and the 
beds vacant, several kinds of hardy flowers may 
now be planted, each bed, as regards manure and 
digging or trenching, boing given such treat¬ 
ment as the intended occupants demand to 
produce the best results. Violas, Pansies, Calceo¬ 
larias, and Verbenas never thrive satisfactorily 
without abundance of manure and deep digging, 
but, given these, failure is all but impossible; 
on the other hand, it should be remembered that 
it is possible to have too much of a good thing ; 
for instance, in rich soil many kinds of Pelar¬ 
goniums, though they will grow like weeds, 
refuse to flower, and the same may be said of 
Ageratums, Heliotropes, Lantanas, and many 
others. Still, it will not be safe to follow this 
line of treatment too severely; there are always 
exceptions to rales. For example, fine-foliaged 
Pelargoniums must have as liberal treatment as 
Violas and Calceolarias if they are to grow and 
colour to perfection. But to return to Violas ; 
plant them ont as early as possible in the richest 
soil, and no other spring or summer flower will 
be able to match them for free and continuous 
blooming, and few kinds equal them either for 
massing or edgings. The best all-the-year-ronnd 
varieties are Bluebell, Tory (blue), Crown Jewel 
(blue), Princess Teck (light mauve), Snowflake 
(white), and Lntea (yellow). On the terrace at 
Hampton Court Palace last summer, the blue varie¬ 
ties were used more effectively than I ever before 
saw them as a carpet or setting for the tall 
variegated Abutilons Thompsoni and Darwini. 
Several large oblong beds were so planted, and 
though there were most elaborate carpet beds, 
grand beds of Pelargoniums, Verbenas, Ac., none 
were half so beautiful as these, and it should be 
added that the simplicity of the arrangement in 
no small measure enhanced the general effect. 
Had the beds in question been planted with an 
outer marginal edging of golden variegated 
Arabis, the arrangement would have been as 
near perfection as it is possible for any bedding 
arrangement to be. Once arrangements are 
completed, there are sundry other kinds of hardy 
beddera that should be planted at this early 
period, not only because the plants will be likely 
to do better, but also because much precious 


time will be saved when the busy season arrives. 
Among these are the variegated Arabis, Ajugas, 
Cerastiums, Golden Feather, variegated Thymes, 
variegated Lamiums, Lavender Cottons,Veronica 
incana, and Euonymus radicans. This last makes 
a striking and permanent edging, and is espe¬ 
cially well suited for edgings to beds of Cannas 
and Ricinus, or indeed for any fine-foliaged 
plants. 

Annuals and biennials.— It is now time 
to sow many of these, and especially those in¬ 
tended to be used in the general bedding arrange 
ments. The endless varieties of good kinds of 
Pelargonium have pushed to the rear many good 
old annuals that twenty years ago did excellent 
duty on the parterre, foremost amongst which 
may be named Sanvitalia procumbens, compact 
and dwarf, with light yellow flowers having a 
black disc; Kaponaria calabrica, similar in habit 
of growth, but slightly taller; Brachycome 
iberidifolia, same habit as the last, but having 
bright blue flowers; Portulacas of several col¬ 
ours, but all of low, dense growth, and alike 
suitable either for outer lines of beds or for 
massing in small beds; Silene pendula compacta, 
not nnlike the Saponaria just named, but, owing 
to the habit of the plant being tufty, the effect 
produced by the two plants is very different; 
Tagetes signata pumila, bright yellow—in poor 
soil it is dwarf and keeps in flower for months. 
These are a few only of the many kinds of 
annuals that may be relied on for summer bed¬ 
ding, and which, if used in fair proportion to 
other kinds, will tend t# obviate the charge of 
samenesss often made against bedding arrange¬ 
ments. They should be sown now on a south 
aspect in the open garden. If lights can be 
placed over them till fairly well out of the 
ground, all the better; but after this the more 
they are exposed the more robust will be their 
growth. If sown thinly, no transplanting will 
be needed till they can be placed in permanent 
positions. Asters, Stocks, Zinnias, Phloxes, 
Indian Pinks, and Everlastings should also now 
be sown in frames; and Wallflowers, Antirr¬ 
hinums, Sweet Williams, Larkspurs, &c., in the 
open air. To guard against loss through slugs 
and birds whilst the plants are in the seedling 
state, when possible ail the kinds should have 
the protection of frames or hand-lights ; lacking 
such structures, sow the seeds on a plot of 
ground by themselves, and as soon as sown 
sprinkle the ground thickly with wood ashes and 
soot, the best preventive against injury from 
slugs ; and against injury from birds, net over 
the entire plot.—W. W. 

Boses. 

Those who have not had their Rose beds dug 
and well dressed with manure should now lose 
no time in doing so. All Hybrid Perpetuals may 
now be pruned, leaving the Teas till later in the 
season. Here we never saw Hoses in the open 
air so forward before. Indeed, plants which 
have not been disturbed have been full of life 
and activity all winter, many varieties remain¬ 
ing evergreen. Under these circumstances they 
will, when pruned, bleed freely and lose much 
of what we would rather was retained, but the 
longer the delny in pruning the greater the evil. 
Should no break in the present mild weather 
occur, we shall have an early flowering season. 

Indoor Rosea.— Such Roses as are grown 
in conservatories, or in any structure along with 
other plants, require especial care at this season 
to sec that they are free from aphides. Where 
planted out, if the soil needs manurial assistance, 
this should at once be given, as on this mainly 
depends the suceessional crop of bloom. Where 
Hybrid Perpetuals are used in quantity for 
forcingthey should now be introduced to the Rose 
house in succession ; these will give flowers at a 
time when the Tea varieties that have been 
earliest at work are beginning to fall off more or 
less, but even in the case of the latter it is sur¬ 
prising how they will keep yielding a succession 
of bloom if they are regularly supplied with 
manure water from the time when they are first 
started; without this the aftergrowth comes too 
weak to bloom strongly. W. H. F. 

Fruit. 

Late Vines. —Practical Grape growers who 
have to keep Mrs. Piace, Black Alicante, and 
Lady Downes fresh, black, and plump until new 
Hamburghs are ready, will not have to be re¬ 
minded that the houses should now be closed 


4 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 3, 1883, 


and the buds fairly moving by the middle of the 
present month. Assuming that the roots have 
the run of external and internal borders resting 
upon ample drainage, the inside roots, previously 
watered with cold water, may now be mulched 
and copiously watered with weak liquid manure 
at a temperature of 90°; and as well matured wood 
has a great deal to do with compact bunches, 
perfect fertilisation, and finish, a little extra 
tire-heat combined with early closing on fine 
days will enable the cultivator to steal a march 
upon the spring, and give more time to the col¬ 
ouring and finishing process, which should be 
complete by the month of September. Having 
so often drawn attention to the importance of 
an early start, a repetition of the above remarks 
seems uncalled for; but when we find Grape 
growers inquiring how they must proceed to 
make their Mrs. Pinces indifferently coloured, 
and their Lady Downes become shrivelled, to in¬ 
sure their keeping, one begins to feel that some 
at least are still in urgent need of the practical 
advice which will he found reiterated in the 
Calendar. When the buds begin to swell a 
higher temperature than that recommended for 
early houses may be indulged in ; indeed, to have 
Lady Downes thin skinned, full flavoured, and 
capable of keeping fresh and plump until May, 
the Vines should receive warm treatment until 
the Grapes begin to colour, when a cooler treat¬ 
ment will insure colour. Black Morocco and 
Gros Colmar, when properly managed and 
allowed a long growing season, are valuable for 
use from January up to March, but they should 
be ripe in September. Gros Colmar should hang 
for some time on the Vines after the leaves fall, 
and a few weeks in a warm Grape room will re¬ 
move the earthy flavour, which makes badly 
ripened examples uneatable. A promising late 
Grape, Mrs, Pearson, is well worthy of a place in 
every autumn and winter vinery. As a grower 
it is quite as free as its inferior relative, the 
Golden Queen. It shows an abundancoof hand¬ 
some bunches which set well, and my experience 
justifies me in saying it will keep for a long 
time and improve in quality after it is ripe. 

Early Vines. —When all the Grapes are 
thinned and the berries begin to swell away 
freely, give the inside borders another liberal 
supply of warm liquid manure, and maintain a 
healthy growing atmosphere by damping the 
walls and floors with the same. Let the night 
temperature range from 65° to 68°, with a chink 
of air when practicable, and ventilate freely 
through the early part of the day to maintain 
the colour and texture of the foliage. A rise of 
10° by day when fire-heat is applied will be 
quite sufficient, but 86° for a short time after 
the house is closed with sun-heat will add 
greatly to the size of the berries without dis¬ 
tressing the Vines. If any part of the trellis 
remains uncovered, tie down the laterals in pre¬ 
ference to hard stopping, and let all, with the 
exception of the strongest, have full play when 
the Btoning process sets in. W. C. 

Vegetables. 

More Peas may be sown. I like the round 
better than the wrinkled ones at this season. 
Pride of the Market is a thoroughly good Pea, 
but as yet scarcely cheap enough for the million ; 
I am therefore sowing Telegraph, an excellent 
variety. Another sowing of Broad Beans may 
also be made. The giant class of Beans, of late 
so fashionable, I am not in favour of; I sow 
Early Mazagan and good old Green Windsor. 
Few vegetables have come to the front more of 
late than Broad Beans eaten when about the 
size of Peas. Our first spring Cucumber plants 
will be in their places on Monday. We grow 
the first lot on the top of a stage, where we place 
about a peck of soil in hillocks under each light, 
and as the roots come out more soil is added. 
Always have some in the house warmed. I have 
not grown Cucumbers long in this way, but I 
can recommend the plan. Last year they did 
really well, and doubtless they will do so this 
season. Tomatoes should be staked at once to 
lead them up to the roof of the house; the 
lattershould be kept at from 60° to 66° at night, 
and there should be a proportionate rise with 
sun heat in the daytime, giving air when the 
temperature has risen from 70° to 76°, but 
screen the air through canvas if possible. 

R. G. 


Vol. I. " Gardening " la out of print, and we are 
therefore unable to further supply either separate copies 
or bound volumes. 

DWtlreSb, GOOgle 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

Among all plants that succeed in the more or 
less impure atmosphere of a large town, the 
Chrysanthemum stands pre-eminent. Hardly 
anything else seems to mind the smoke and dust 
so little, and with a moderate amount of care 
and trouble, and particularly if the aid of a 
glass structure of some kind is available, as fine 
flowers can be, and actually are, produced in 
the heart of London or any great city as in more 
favoured localities outside. 

It is now high time to commence working up 
a stock of these deservedly favourite flowers, or 
if this has been already done, to see that there 
is a sufficient number of the most useful and 
beautiful varieties, and also, by constant atten¬ 
tion, to keep the young plants in perfect health 
and vigour, for a good start is at all times half 
the battle. 

Cuttings already struck or put in at once will 
both make finer plants and produce more and 
finer flowers than those left till late in spring. 
This applies more particularly to the large 
flowered show and Japanese varieties. Slay, or 
even early in June, is quite early enough to 
strike cuttings of Pompones, especially if very 
large plants are not desired. But, at the same 
time, plants of the early flowering sorts, whether 
required for pots or the open ground, should be 
obtained as speedily as possible now. To strike 
Chrysanthemums a hotbed is by no means neces¬ 
sary. They will succeed admirably if placed in 
a warm quiet corner of an ordinary greenhouse, 
and kept moderately moist and shaded from 
strong sun. The best way is to put six or seven 
cuttings round the sides of a large 3-inch pot, 
using light sandy soil and good drainage. 

It is not advisable, unless a great variety is 
particularly desired, to grow more than a few 
kinds. White flowers are the most useful, on 
the whole, and the best white variety for general 
purposes is Fair Maid of Guernsey (Japanese). 
Too many of these can hardly be grown, for 
the whole nature of this variety is so wonder¬ 
fully vigorous and free, that it will produce an 
abundance of flowers under treatment that 
would bring Mrs. Rundle and many other fine 
varieties to grief very shortly. Elaine is more 
beautiful even than the Fair Maid, but more 
shy, and needs more liberal treatment. Still it 
is in every way desirable. As many as can be 
found room for of these two lovely whites, a 
few of Mrs. Rundle, Mrs. Dixon, James Salter, 
and Jardin des Plantes, with some Prince 
Alfred or Prince of Wales and General Slade 
to give a little deeper colour, would be a much 
better selection for a small place than a lot of 
fancy kinds. Of the early kinds, Illustration, 
Madame Pecoul, and Scarlet Gem are much the 
best, either for pots or out of doors. Among 
Pompones, Madame Marthe, Golden Madame 
Marthc, Aigle d'Or, St. Michael, and Marabout, 
with General Canrobert or Crimson Perfection for 
reds, and perhaps a plant of Model of Perfection, 
would make about the best possible selection. 
When the plants are fairly rooted, pot them off 
singly into 3-inch pots, using any good light 
compost, keep close for a few days, and then 
grow on in a cool frame or light airy green¬ 
house till ready for repotting. 

The perennial Asters (Michaelmas Daisies) 
are also grand town plants, and should now re¬ 
ceive attention. A few of the best are; Amcllus, 
Novaj Anglia;, Novae Bclgiae, pyrenseus, poly- 
phyllus, and versicolor. Perennial Phloxes, also 
extremely useful, should now be propagated. 
Treat similar to Chrysanthemums, and plant 
out in rich soil when strong enough. 

_ B. C. R. 

Cheap manure.—I had in my garden an 
ordinary privy, which I have converted into what 
I call an earth closet, the contents of which I 
use in my garden with great advantage. From a 
sanitary point of view, the arrangement is excel¬ 
lent, and there is no smell whatever. The ordi¬ 
nary seat is made to lift off, and about 16 inches 
below it is a stage of wood, on which stands a 
galvanised iron bucket 14 inches in diameter 
(cost Is. 4d.). Into this bucket I put about half 
an ounce of common green vitriol (sulphate of 
iron), which costs 2d. per pound, and when the 
bucket is nearly full I have it carried into the 
arden and mixed with half a barrowful of the 
riest soil I can find and a little quicklime—not 
more than a handful. The sulphate of iron de¬ 
composes and forms sulphate of ammonia, which 
is a most powerful manure, and the quicklime 


combines with the sulphuretted hydrogen. For 
the collection of manure water, soap-suds, and 
house slops I have an old petroleum cask (cost 2s.'), 
into which 1 put about an ounce of sulphate of 
iron, which, by fixing the ammonia as well as 
the soda in the soap-suds, not only prevents all 
smell, but increases the strength of the manure 
water immensely. The cask stands end up on a 
stillage, so that 1 can get my watering pot under 
the tap.—B urgeon. 


ROSE& 


ROSES IN GREENHOUSES. 

WnERE Roses have to be forced along with a 
miscellaneous collection of other plants, they 
cannot be expected to succeed nearly so well a-s 
when accommodated by themselves, and where 
such shifts have to be made there will always be 
a difficulty in keeping up a continuous supply of 
flowers through the winter not experienced when 
they have a house to themselves. The Rose under 
natural conditions requires plenty of air to keep 
it in health, but when forced the foliage cannot 
bear the admission of external air to an extent 
that most other things require without its leaves 
continually becoming a prey to mould. "Where 
mixed forcing is carried on, and Roses form a 
part, the air given should be confined to admis¬ 
sion at the roof ventilators, and only in small 
quantities, at the same time giving the plants 
plenty of light. In forcing Roses, especially the 
Tea varieties, the quantity of flowers produced 
will always be dependent on the strength the 
plants have in them ; consequently from the time 
of their introduction to heat they should be regu¬ 
larly supplied with manure in some form, giving 
it either in the shape of liquid or in a solid state 
applied to the surface to be washed down to the 
roots in the ordinary process of watering. The 
Tea varieties are much the most under the influ¬ 
ence of such feeding as here described, for so 
long as there is enough strength in them they at 
once start into fresh growth after one or 
two crops of flowers have been produced, 
which growth will bloom if not too weak. 
Plants of the Tea kinds that were put in heat 
in the autumn, and have been at work ever 
since, will now requires rest. Assumingtliat they 
arc grown in pots, they should be accommodated 
in a house or pit where they can be kept mode¬ 
rately close and not subjected to cold draughts 
or frost, for upon their being well treated now in 
this way depends their yearly gaining strength 
and ability to give an increased amount of bloom 
the ensuing winter. They should l* kept as free 
from mildew and insects all through the spring 
and summer as they have been duringthe time of 
forcing. Another lotof plants oughtto be put in to 
take their place, and if strong and in good condi¬ 
tion, with fair treatment they will yielda succes¬ 
sion of flowers that will keep on until the spring 
is far advanced. In Rose forcing during March 
and April a good deal of forethought is required 
in firing. The sun by that time gets powerful, and 
if the fire is not stopped early in the morning 
whenever there is a likelihood of bright weather, 
the temperature runs up so as to necessitate the ad - 
mission of much more air than the tender foliage 
will bear; it is better when such occurs to let the 
heat rise even to 86® or 90° than to let in cold 
draughts on the plants. The use of thin shading 
in an emergency of this kind is preferable. Hy¬ 
brid Perpetuals that have been prepared by a 
season or more’s growth in pots may now be put 
in heat, and if not hurried will give a much 
better return than if started earlier. Even plants 
that were potted up in autumn from the open 
ground will yield a moderate quantity of flowers; 
but where no further preparation has been given 
than this, unless allowed to come on with little, 
if any, above a greenhouse temperature, the 
plants will be of little use for pot work, as the 
bloom they give under their unprepared condition 
is produced at the expense of the strength that 
was in them when taken from outdoors. Where 
Roses are wanted all the year round the right 
course is to get a sufficient quantity of plants 
strong and well established in pots, when with 
proper attention they will keep on gaining 
strength to produce many more and much finer 
flowers than partially established or non-pre- 
pared examples. If any of the plants are affected 
with worms, a little soot laid on the surface of 
of the pots, where it will be washed down into 
the soil, will drive them away; their presence in 
the soil of pot Roses has a worse effect than with 
most things. B. 



March 3 1882.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


5 


Marechal Niel Rose.— A fine plant of 
Marechal Niel Rose at Burghley shows the suit¬ 
ability of that Rose for a cold house. It com¬ 
pletely fills the roof of a house 25 feet by 12 feet, 
and runs over the walk of a cherry house adjoining 
for another 25 feet, and is remarkable for its 
vigorous health. It has stood for nine years, 
annually yielding an abundant golden harvest. 
Mr. Gilbert attributes its remarkable growth to 
his practice of cutting the Rose down to the old 
stem annually, training the young rods up the 
rafters like vines, taking a crop of flowers and 
cutting down again,so that all flowers are borne 
on young and vigorous wood of the previous 
season. 

9311.— Striking Rose cuttings —It is 

not too late to put in cuttings of those trees, if 
wood that is both young and fairly stout can be 
obtained that has not pushed growth. The cut¬ 
tings should be from 5 inches to 6 inches in 
length, be cut at the bottom to a leaf bud, and 
be put in now where it is shaded from summer 
sunshine, as there is no chance that the cuttings 
would root to make plants fit to lift before 
next autumn. The soil should be cut down with a 
spade to form shallow drills into which the cut¬ 
tings must be stood, using at the bottom some 
.'•harp sand, then filling in the soil and pressing 
it firmly with the feet.—A. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


FALSE ACACIA (ROBINIA PSEUDACACIA). 
The False Acacia, being different in general 
appearance from other trees, always commands 
attention, especially when laden with its 
drooping racemes of sweet-scented white flowers. 
That condition is, however, only of short dura¬ 
tion, as the blossoms soon drop. Its peculiarly 
coloured furrowed bark when old, and its light, 
airy, pinnate leaves render it a favourite in 
dressed ground, and even for street planting the 
varieties Bessoniana, Decaisneana, and others 
are sometimes employed. Its ornamental pro¬ 
perties are not, however, the only points in its 
favour; its timber is of first-rate quality, and 
the long creeping roots, though troublesome in 
some situations from their habit of throwing up 
suckers, and from their close proximity to the 
surface, are of great service in fixing shifting 
soils, especially on the sides of cuttings and 
similar places. As might be expected in the case 
of a plant so long introduced and so extensively 
propagated from seed, there are now a great 
many well marked and distinct varieties, of 
which the following are well worthy of notice : 
The golden-leaved kind (aurea) is a form in 
which the leaves are, on their first appearance, 
of a beautiful golden hue, but they become 
somewhat greener as the season advances. 
When in good condition it is very bright and 
effective and of much slighter growth than the 
type. 

A handsome kind called Bessoniana is that 
most suitable for street planting. It is of quick 
growth, and forms a highly ornamental compact 
growing tree, the foliage of which is large and 
bold, and the branches destitute of spines. In 
crispa the leaflets are curled, giving it a curious 
and distinct but by no means an ornamental 
appearance. The branches of this variety are 
also spineless. As a rapid grower, the variety 
Decaisneana is unapproached by any of the other 
Robinias, and in another point it differs greatly 
from them, viz., in the colour of the flowers, 
which are pink instead of white. One of the 
most strongly-marked kinds is the upright Acacia 
(fastigiata), a tree quite as erect in growth as 
the Lombardy Poplar, while another form (pyra¬ 
midal!) is in habit about intermediate between 
it and the common kind. The small-leaved sort 
(microphylla) forms a pretty miniature tree of 
slight but by no means stunted growth. Mono- 
phylla, another variety, derives it name from the 
fact of the leaflets being blended into one, as in 
the case of the one-leafed Ash, thus presenting 
3 curious appearance, but still very ornamental, 
the growth being free, and the tree forming a 
well-balanced head. Sophormfolia has very dark 
green leaves, which bear a great resemblance to 
those of the Sophora japonica. A peculiar form 
is the twisted Acacia (tortuosa), the branches of 
which are crowded together and full of abrupt 
twistings and turnings. This peculiarity is more 
noticeable in winter when the tree is without 
foliage than in summer. 

(umbraculifera) is gener 


high on a clear stem of the common kind, and so 
treated it forms a dense globular head, which is 
certainly very conspicuous, but if not judiciously 
planted, or if overdone, apt to give a formal 
rather than a natural appearance to the places 
in which it is planted. 


Clipping Laurel hedges. — I see the 

month of May recommended as the best time to 
clip hedges, but I always find if done then the 
second growth is so great that the hedge looks 
untidy all the next winter. I clip mire in 
the middle of June, and then the second growth 
is only sufficient to withstand the frost, and not 
so luxuriant as to look as if the hedge required 
clipping again.—I. T. 

9313.— Lilacs for forcing— The Lilacs 
that figure in florists' shops at this season of the 
year are mostly imported ones; and the large 
flowered variety, known as Charles the Tenth, is 
the best, but the smaller flowered Persian Lilac is 
very floriferous, and makes pretty plants for 
pots. When forced in strong heat, the purple or 
lilac coloured varieties, come pure white, or if 
slower forcing is followed the same result may 
be attained by growing the plants in the dark. 
Although imported plants are the ones mostly 


used for forcing, there is really no difficulty 
in getting home-grown plants equally good, 
the best plan being to get nice healthy young 
bushes in the winter preceding the one they are 
intended for forcing ; pot them in good soil in 8- 
inch pots, and plunge the pots in leaves or old tan, 
and let them be well attended to for water 
during the growing season; they will develop 
fine flower buds, and being well established at 
the root, will force readily, and when done 
flowering, if gradually hardened off in cool 
houses until April, they will do good service for 
years ; but if taken from a temperature of 60°, 
and set out of doors to take its chance during 
spring, there will be no flower the following 
season. It is simply a question of which pays 
best with growers for sale ; but private owners 
of gardens may find in the Lilac a very valuable 
aid to their floral decorations. By treating the 
plants on rational principles, they will repay 
generous treatment and protection by producing 
many crops of deliciously fragrant flowers.—J. 
Groom, Qosport. 

9312. — Pruning Aucubas. — Where 
Aucubas have become so large as to need very 
hard pruning, it will be well to cut back at once, 
and then the plants will break up strong as soon 
as the weather becomes a little warmer, and 
make green bushes in a few weeks. The flowers 
and berries must be sacrificed for a year or two. 
—D. 


Catching slugs— Having often seen in 
Gardening queries about catching slugs, I 
think my experience might be useful. I tske 
a little bran and put boiling water to it; then 
drain off the water, and add about a teacup c-f 
vinegar to two quarts of bran, and lay it about 
the garden on slates. I have caught 17,251 in 
twenty-four nights in about an acre of ground . 
I do not believe chimney soot will kill slugs.— 
Torquay. 

HOUSE AND WINDOW GARDENING. 

Flowers and plants in rooms —A 

large porcelain bowl 13 inches across, filled with 
yellow single Tulips, is aline ornament for the 
dinner table. The Tulips may be either turned 
out of pots or cut and put in water. In the 
latter case it may be convenient to have a disc 
of zinc perforated with holes to receive the 
stalks of a diameter as will fit the bowl at about 
the water level; this is covered with some care¬ 
fully-picked fresh Moss. Sheaf-shaped bouquets 
of the same yellow Tulips, in four pieces of the 
same china of rather upright form, complete the 
decoration of the table. This arrangement also 
does well with white and yellow Tulips, using 
the two colours together—not mixed up, but 
grouped in masses — 
and a rosy-pink kind 
called ltosine, rather 
double, is to be re¬ 
commended either alone 
or grouped with white. 
A good bunch of red- 
purple Christmas Roses 
and a few white, with 
the handsomely veined 
leaves of the Italian 
Arum, fill a glass bowl; 
the red Hellebores have 
leafy collars that are 
a pretty variety from 
the more naked stalks 
of the white. Cut 
Hyacinths, pale blue- 
grey and white, are 
arranged with the Olive¬ 
like foliage of ever¬ 
green Oak, and a smaller 
table bouquet is made 
of a few flowers of a 
pale salmon pink win¬ 
ter-flowering Carnation 
with Lavender twigs 
and some taller sprays 
of Rosemary — a plea¬ 
sant concord both of 
colour and scent. A 
large oval embossed 
copper holds two pots of 
green-leaved Aspidistra, 
with an undergrowth of 
Lily of the Valley placed 
as thickly as the pots 
will allow, and carpeted 
with fresh Moss. 

Kalosanthes (Crassulas) in windows. 
— I have never seen Kalosanthes recommended 
as window plants, and as I have grown some suc¬ 
cessfully in my window, it may interest some 
readers of Gardening if I give my experience 
of growing them. I got young plants in the 
spring, potting in small pots at first, soil sandy 
loam and a little leaf-mould, and as soon as they 
showed flower I put them into pots a size larger, 
using the same kind of soil as before, but with a 
little more leaf-mould. They flowered very well 
with me, but I could not get them to keep over 
the winter. Last year, however, I put one plant 
outside my window in June, and let it get all 
the sun and air possible till September. I then 
took it indoors and put it in the kitchen window ; 
it is doing well as yet. I never give water till 
the pot rings like a bell.—J. M. 

9336.— Vallota purpurea.— Good turfy 
loam, a little rotten manure, and rough grit will 
grow this plant to perfection. Give good drain¬ 
age, and supply the roots with plenty of water 
during the growing season, but keep rather dry 
in winter.—W. Harris, Barnstaple. 

Grafting wax.—Allow me to introduce to 
your readers an article I have found of great 
service in grafting, in place of the compositions 
recommended lately in GARDENING by “Ombu.” 

, I refer to thin gutta percha. Pieces of about 2 
I inches square put in hot water, and placed round 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Umbrella Acacia 
gr^f^d rto»t|5^f§et 



False Acacia (Ilobiaia pscmlacacla). 



6 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 3, 1883. 


the graft, makes a nice clean graft, and is always 
successful.—P axton. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


ON THE CULTIVATION OF THE 
TUBEROUS BEGONIA. 

The present being about the Beason when pre¬ 
parations for raising and growing a batch of 
these popular plants should be commenced, a 
few words upon their successful culture may 
not be out of place. The Begonia is certainly 
one of the most accommodating plants we 
possess, being almost equally at home in the 
stove, greenhouse, conservatory, window garden, 
or planted out of doors in summer, like the 
ordinary Geranium. It possesses an almost in¬ 
finite variety and range of colour, surpassing in 
this particular even the Zonal Pelargonium or 
Geranium, numberless as the different shades of 
this latter plant appear. Begonias bloom con¬ 
tinuously throughout the entire summer, and 
when bedded out certainly stand wet and 
stormy weather much better than the universal 
Geranium. If a gentle but steady warmth of 
65° to 70° can be commanded, seed-sowing is 
the best and by far the least expensive method 
of obtaining a stock of Begonias. Seedling 
plants also grow much more freely than those 
propagated in any other way, and the flowers 
have been so vastly improved the last few years 
that a packet of really good seed will produce 
a large majority of flowers, superior in shape 
and colour to kinds that were sold for half a 
guinea apiece a few years ago. If no heat is 
available a few tubers should be purchased. 
These may be started at once in a gentle 
bottom-heat, if required early, but they will do 
so quite naturally in an ordinary greenhouse 
temperature about the month of March, and 
plants so treated succeed better than by the 
other method. 


Sowing. —To raise plants from seed prepare 
one or more clean hard 6-inch pots, selecting 
those having level rims, by filling them half full 
of crocks broken small, the smaller pieces on the 
top, and on this place a handful of spent hops or 
rough leaf-soil. Now fill up to within three 
quarters of an inch of the rim with a mixture of 
good leaf-soil, not sifted, but with all lumps or 
pieces of stick picked out, two parts, and coarse 
silver sand one part. Press this firmly down, 
and place the pots in a pail of water two-thirds 
of their depth. When thoroughly moistened, 
surface with finely sifted leaf-soil and sand in 
equal parts to the depth of nearly half an inch 
more, pressing this also down fairly firm, and 
making the surface very level and even. Now 
sow the seed evenly and thinly, give a mere 
dusting of dry sand, cover each pot with a sheet 
of glass, and place them in a sweet gentle hot¬ 
bed, or in a stove or propagating house at 65° 
to 70°. Wipe the glass clean from condensed 
drops every day, and give a little air, tilting the 
glass a little if the surface seems too wet. If the 
soil becomes dry before the seeds germinate, or 
even afterwards, until the young plants gain a 
little strength do not water overhead, but place 
the pots two-thirds of their depths in tepid 
water for fifteen minutes. Shade from all sunshine, 
but when the seedlings appear they must have 
full and free light to keep them strong. The 
young plants will begin to appear in from two 
to three weeks after sowing, but do not expect 
to see a lot come up together, for Begonia seed 
germinates slowly and very irregularly, however 
fresh and good it may be. 


Potting off— When there are a dozen or 
two of the seedlings about an inch in height, 
carefully remove these, disturbing the surround¬ 
ing soil as little as possible, and prick them out 
2 inches apart in shallow boxes of leaf-soil and 
sand, with good drainage. Put them in fairly 
firm, water well, and replace in a warm house or 
gentle hotbed. They will soon take root in their 
new quarters, and at this stage grow very rapidly 
in warm weather in a moist, genial atmosphere. 
When getting a little crowded, pot them singly 
in 8-inch pots, using the same compost as 
before, with good drainage. Keep them close 
for a few days, then accustom to a moderate 
amount of air, and the influence of sunshine, 
except when very strong, will now be beneficial. 
When these pots are getting full of roots, shift 
into 5-inch or 6-inch, in which size the plants 


will bloom nicely. /Tile same soil, 

Go 


erf-mould 

e 


and sand, with the addition of a little fibrous 
loam, is most suitable. If the seed were sown 
the end of January, or in the early part of 
February, and grown along freely, nice bushy 
plants in 6-inch or 6-inch pots, just coming into 
full bloom, may be produced by the month of 
July. When well established in the size men¬ 
tioned, ordinary greenhouse treatment will suit 
them admirably, but if any are wanted to pro¬ 
duce extra fine blooms they should be placed in 
an intermediate temperature, with a rather moist 
atmosphere, air only from about 9 o’clock till 
4 or 6 in the afternoon, and be shaded from all 
strong sunshine. This course of treatment will 
suit any named or extra choice varieties 
admirably, and to do them justice a light span- 
roofed house, running east and west, with a set 
of blinds arranged on rollers on the south side, 
so as to be readily run up or down as needed, 
will grow these plants to the greatest perfection. 
They should be kept evenly and moderately 
moist at the roots, but the stems and leaves 
should be wetted as little as possible, par¬ 
ticularly late in the day, as any part remain¬ 
ing wet for more than a few hours will inevitably 
decay. Other batches of seedlings will appear 
and require pricking off at intervals long after 
the first lot were removed ; in fact, we frequently 
keep on removing plants from the same seed-pot 
throughout the whole summer. 

Old tubers are easily started at any time 
in spring, but one point must be carefully 
attended to, i.e., the soil should be maintained in 
a barely moist condition until the growth is pretty 
well advanced, or the tubers are very likely to 
decay, particularly if they have been shaken out 
and repotted previously. We always find them 
start best in the pots in which they grew the pre¬ 
vious year, and shaken out when the shoots are 
2 or 3 inches in length. Shift the plants onward 
into larger pots as required, and when 7 or 8 
inches or larger sizes are reached, a moderate 
quantity of old flaky decayed manure may be 
with advantage added to the compost. 

For bedding out, tubers raised the pre¬ 
vious season, started into growth under glass, 
hardened off a little, and planted out early in 
June, will give the best results ; though strong 
seedlings of the same year, carefully hardened, 
and turned out of 3 or 4-inch pots will do well 
in a good season. For Begonias out-of-doors 
the soil must be light and very rich; an open 
and sunny position is also necessary to their 
well being. When planted out thus, they grow 
very fast when the roots begin to lay hold of the 
soil, and rapidly form large tubers, which also 
start vigorously and make grand specimens the 
following season. 

Cuttings —Very choice or named varieties 
may be propagated from cuttings. These are 
made either of the young shoots produced by 
the corms in spring, which are taken off when 
2 or 3 inches long and struck in the same 
manner as Dahlias, or strong tops or side shoots 
can be taken in summer and autumn. The 
parent plants must be in a perfect state of 
health, however, for nothing in the least sickly 
will emit a single root. The growths should be 
a little hard and strong, and yet be in a growing 
state when taken off. Insert them singly in 
very sandy soil in small pots half filled with 
drainage, and place them on a shelf in some 
warm structure, such as a Cucumber or pro¬ 
pagating house or pit, kept rather close and 
shaded from sun. Here many will take root and 
form tubers, which will make good plants the 
following season, but these Begonias are very 
ticklish things to strike, and it takes a very 
skilful hand to do much good with them by this 
method. 

The double varieties are treated in much the 
same manner as the singles; they are, however, 
rather more delicate in growth, and require more 
heat and more careful attention in every way to 
do them well. Seedling doubles are even more 
preferable to cutting plants than in the case of 
the single kinds, as when grown from cuttings 
they rapidly lose their constitution. 

All who have ever seen a large houseful of 
well-grown Begonias, or even a collection of 
blooms from the best varieties, will, we feel sure, 
gladly incur the Bmall amount of trouble—if so 
interesting an occupation can be called trouble 
—necessary in order to acquire a few plants to 
render their own greenhouse or garden gay for 
several months. 

B. C. E. 


Geraniums all the year round—I 

cannot agree with “A. B. T., East Anglia," 
p. 676, that scarlet Pelargoniums to bloom all 
the year round require no special treatment; 
and, moreover, I do not think such a thing can be 
accomplished by placing them in a cool vinery 
through the winter. My experience confirms me 
that Geraniums must have a temperature of from 
60° to 56° to flower them in the winter, which 
temperature could not be maintained in a cool 
vinery in December nor January without turning 
such a structure into a forcing house. In ad¬ 
dition to the growing temperature, the plants 
must have careful treatment throughout the 
spring and summer previous. Cuttings should 
be struck in tbe autumn singly in small pots, 
kept through the winter as ordinary bedding 
stuff, potted on in the spring in 4-inch pots, set 
out of doors in a sunny situation and all blooms 
pinched off as they appear. Treated in the above 
manner, and well attended to in respect to 
watering, strong short-jointed plants may be had 
by the autumn which will be sure to give satis¬ 
faction through the winter. I do not say old 
plants are of no value—they often supply a large 
quantity of cut bloom, but they must be supplied 
with necessary stimulants to keep them growing. 
The plants will be greatly benefited by a little 
soot water occasionally. Such accounts as that 
given by ’■ A. B. T.” may lead the inexperienced 
to think things come by chance, which is not the 
case, as all engaged in gardening pursuits will be 
ready to admit.—J. Hankins. 

9264.— Cutting back Fuchsias— When 
it is desired to get old Fuchsias into shape, the 
cutting for that purpose should be when the 
winter pruning is done. As the wood will cer¬ 
tainly break beyond the cutting, let it be ever 
so hard, provided there ,are leaf-buds behind, 
Fuchsias should be got into shape when they are 
young plants, and are then ductile in the hands 
of the grower. If the young wood which is now 
breaking be much cut, the bloom for the season 
will materially suffer. It would be better rather 
to let the plants remain somewhat ungainly in 
shape than to sacrifice so much of the new 
growth as must be the case if it is purposed to 
cut it to shape the plants. At the same time it 
may be possible, by pinching the new growth 
here and there, and to encourage growth in other 
places, to improve the shape of the plants very' 
considerably.—D. 

9262— Cyclamens not flowering— The 
open air is not the place for young Cyclamens 
during the summer, our climate being too vari¬ 
able to allow of their maturing sufficiently to 
form flower-buds. Old bulbs are often planted 
out in the open for several months, and will 
flower well thus treated, but seedlings must be 
grown along under glass, so that they make 
good-sized corms by the end of August, at which 
time the flower-buds, many of them, are well 
developed. As your plants have no flowers on 
them, they will start into growth again early in 
the summer, and should not be dried off, but be 
kept nicely moist, shifting them into larger pots 
by the middle of J uly. The best place for Cycla¬ 
mens in summer is a cold frame, where they can 
be shaded from hot sun, get plenty of air on fine 
days, and be exposed to the night air when 
balmy.—J. C., Jiytltci. 

9249— Mignonette In pots. —Mignonette 
for early summer bloom may be sown at once. 
The pots should be well drained and filled to 
within nearly an inch of the rim with good free 
soil. Make the surface quite firm and level, 
water before sowing, and sow about a dozen 
seeds in each pot. Cover the pots with a piece 
of paper or a pane of glass until the seed 
germinates, and thin the plants out when well 
up, leaving about five in a 44-inch pot. Grow 
them in a light greenhouse or frame. To main¬ 
tain a good succession later sowings should be 
made, and for winter bloom the seed should be 
sown about the last week in August, growing 
the young plants in the open air, merely- pro¬ 
tecting against heavy rains until the latter end 
of October, when they should be placed on a 
shelf in a light position in a cool greenhouse, or 
where the temperature does not range higher 
than 55° by day. For spring bloom sow late in 
September, and keep quite cool all the winter.— 
J. C. B. 

- I would recommend “Ignoramus” to 

grow his Mignonette in 6-inch pots. First crock 
the pots well to insure good drainage, then half 
fill them with good rotten stable manure, then 


March 3, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


7 



take a piece of wood or the bottom of a smaller 
pot and press down the manure quite firm on 
the crocks, 611 up the pot to about an inch of 
the surface with a mixture of good turfy loam, 
rotten manure, and leaf-mould, smooth the 
surface over and sow the seed thinly, then cover 
lightly with finely sifted soil from the mixture 
and a little sand. Place in a cool frame, which, 
until the young plants are nicely up must be 
kept rather close and shaded, to prevent the 
surface soil from being dried up quickly. 
Afterwards ventilate freely to ensure good stout 
growth ; thin out as soon as the plants can be 
handled to about 6ve or six in a pot. When 
they have grown about 2 inches high, put four 
neat stakes at equal distances in each pot and 
tie a piece of Btring or any other tying material 
round from stake to stake to keep the plants 
from falling over the sides of the pots. Clean 
soft water is the most 
suitable until they have 
tilled the pots well with 
roots, then give occa¬ 
sional supplies of liquid 
manure. During the 
whole season of growth 
do not let the plants 
suffer from dryness at 
the roots.—A. J. M. 

9246. — Lilies In 
pots. —The plants are 
too far advanced for the 
time of year, indeed we 
never knew Lilium aura- 
turn to make such growth 
so early. This Lily, as 
well as lancifolium, goes 
to rest in October, and 
when the stems die 
away they are repotted, 
placed in a cold house 
or frame, or plunged in 
ashes in some sheltered 
situation in the open 
air. Treated thus, they 
start naturally into 
growth in March, and 
only need to be sheltered 
from frost during the 
late spring months, mak¬ 
ing strong stems, and 
dowering in late summer 
or in early autumn. 

Even a cool greenhouse 
is too confined in spring. 

There is no place so good 
as a frame, where the 
lights can be pulled eff 
on fine days. All that 
can be done now is to 
give as much air as pos¬ 
sible until the beginning 
of June, at which time 
they should, if not in 
flower, be placed in the 
open air. Another season 
keep them as cool as pos¬ 
sible after potting, so that 
they come into growth 
naturally in spring. — 

J. C. B. 

9296. — Coronilla 
not blooming. — 

Plenty of nourishment 
when growing, with light 
and air in abundance, 
and several weeks' ex¬ 
posure to the open 
air when they complete 
their growth, are the conditions necessary to 
ensure Coronillas flowering freely. When starved, 
the wood does not acquire sufficient substance to 
form flower buds, and when the plants are grown 
in a close partially shaded situation, it does not 
ripen. The Coronilla is hardy as a wall plant in 
some parts of this country, and only needs even 
in the coldest localities the shelter of a glass 
roof from vicissitudes of climate In winter and 
spring, preferring full exposure to sun and air 
in the open during the summer months. It is 
not necessary to shift very often, and if your 
plant was repotted last year it may remain in 
the same pot this season, but some weak liquid 
manure should be given once or twice a week 
when the young growth is being made, or a top¬ 
dressing of some concentrated manure should 
be given after flowering. When the flowers fade, 
prone the shoots back to vratblh a third of their 

Digitized by 


length, water carefully until fresh shoots form. 
Keep in a light position indoors until the 
middle of July, and then place in the open 
until the middle of September. Be sure and 
give plenty of water in hot weather, and sprinkle 
overhead in fine days. When the pot becomes 
crammed with roots, shift as soon as growth 
begins again after blooming time, using good 
loam with a little leaf-mould in it, and potting 
firmly. J. C. B. 

9281.—Herbaoeoua Calceolarias col¬ 
lapsing. — Not only Calceolarias but many 
other soft-wooded plants will suddenly collapse 
when looking healthy and vigorous. It is some¬ 
times thought to he due to strains that are not 
robust, then it is believed that permitting plants 
to get very dry at the roots and suddenly soak¬ 
ing them with water will bring about this 
damping off. Sometimes also it is attributed to 


Grcup of March Flowers. 

soil. In any case the place of disease seems 
always to be in the stem of the plant, just on the 
surface of the soil. It is well never to let the soil in 
the pots get too dry, nor to become too wet. The 
plants also dislike sudden changes of tempera¬ 
ture, and bursts of warm sunshine, sending the 
temperature of a house or frame up 10° or 12° 
in a few moments after a long spell of dull, cold 
weather, is often productive of flagging and 
doubtless damping off, as complained of.— 
A. D. 

9319— Abutllona growing lanky.— Cut 

the Abutilons well back, keep rather dry at the 
root, syringe overhead often, and keep close till 
they break into growth again ; then shake the 
soil from the roots and repot, keeping close 
till recovered. Pinch the young growths till the 
desired shape is attained, when they may be 
allowed to flower. Do not keep the roots 


cramped when the plants are making wood, but 
aim to get the pots full of roots when they are 
wanted to flower, and when flowering has well 
commenced give plenty of good manure water, 
and the bloom will be abundant.—W. Harris, 
Barnstaple. 

FLOWERS OF MARCH. 

Though March may not unfitly be regarded as 
the month of east winds and hoar frosts, things 
decidedly unpleasant for flowers, yet nature is 
wilful, and in spite of deterring influences from 
above, will force her charms out before the gate 
of humanity .which, after the long, gloomy winter, 
is but too pleased to hail the evidence of the 
coming spring. In our kitchen or fruit gardens 
there is no lack of evidence that flowers are quick¬ 
ening, for early Pears are bursting their bloom- 
buds and giving the gardener much anxiety 
as to the dangers inci¬ 
dental to such precocity. 
Some of the early Plums 
are also following suit, 
whilst upon the walls 
Apricots and Peaches are 
full of flower, and need 
ample protection when 
keen winds and white 
frosts prevail The com¬ 
mon Horse Nut and the 
more delicate Filbert 
are getting covered with 
the furry catkins, the 
male blossoms that, 
laden with pollen, are 
so pretty and graceful; 
the tiny red female 
flowers found on the ex¬ 
tremity of the brown 
leaf-buds are barely visi¬ 
ble to unobservant 
people ; it is these, how¬ 
ever, fertilised by the 
pollen from the male cat¬ 
kins,which in the autumn 
produce those clusters of 
nuts that are so de¬ 
lightful to gather and 
so exasperating to the 
aged to eat. In ourshrub- 
beries and on walls that 
grand Japanese shrub 
the Camellia is blooming 
abundantly. Too few 
people yet know how 
finely the Camellia will 
thrive in the open air, 
and prefer to have them 
in pots and tubs under 
glass. There it is, a grand 
March flower, and fur¬ 
nishes myriads of beau¬ 
tiful flowers for many 
uses. There are some few 
of the early Rhododen- 
dronsthatwill flowerthus 
early, so also will several 
of the Daphnes and For- 
sythias, and even the 
winter blooming naked 
Jasmine has not yet lost 
all its pretty yellow 
blooms. On walls the 
white flowers of Stan- 
dish's Honeysuckle are 
making the air full of per¬ 
fume, and the Almond 
and Double Peach fur¬ 
nish exquisite masses uf 
colour. The chief wealth of March flowers, how¬ 
ever, is found amongst what are commonly 
termed hardy plants, and these comprise nume¬ 
rous perennials and bulbouB plants. Of these 
latter the blue Siberian Squill furnishes a lovely 
contrast to the Snowdrop, and following come 
the Chionodoxas, or Glory of the Snow, as these 
pretty blue-flowered hardy bulbs are termed. 
A great contrast is seen in the bold Double 
Daffodils, large massive flowers that are univer¬ 
sally grown as they should be. The later 
Crocuses, purple, white, and striped forms, are 
now very beautiful grown in clumps of a dozen 
bulbs, or in lines mixed, and are worthy of a 
place in any garden. Anemones are now getting 
truly lovely. There is the rich scarlet fulgens, 
and the pretty pale blue apennina, both charm¬ 
ing spring flowers that will thrive in any soil, 
and rather prefer a warm position. The well 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 











8 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 3, 1883, 


known forms of the garden Anemone coming 
early will be blooming freely through March, 
full as they are of variety in colour, and lovely 
in the extreme. The early dwarf purple Iris 
reticulata will be making gardens gay in March, 
as also will the later Hellebores, so-called 
Christmas Roses, though more fitly termed Lent 
Roses, just as the Narcissi are called Lent Lilies. 
Those of the orientalis or tall growing group are 
capital March flowers, as those who are fortunate 
enough to have them admit. We must not omit 
the pretty liepaticas, blue, white, and red, in 
several varieties, lovely amongst the loveliest, 
yet most modest of spring flowers. The red 
is both single and double, so is the blue, 
but the white is single only. Hcpatica 
angulosa is a beauty, and even is a capital 
border plant for its foliage only. Still 
where it thrives well it blooms abundantly. 
We are so accustomed to associate the Cycla¬ 
men with greenhouses, that no wonder many 
overlook the charms of the lowly Coum and the 
bi-coloured persicum, the progenitors largely of 
all the grand kinds which our market growers 
now turn out by tens of thousands. There are 
some charming March flowers found in the her¬ 
baceous Primulas, such as the mauve coloured 
kind from the Himalayas, known as denticulata, 
and the wondrously pleasing rose-coloured 
kind from the Crimea, better known as Primula 
rosea. These are but members of our Primrose 
family, but cannot, though brought from such 
far off regions, in but a remote degree compare 
with our garden Primroses and Polyanthuses, for 
these are now flowering in marvellous beauty 
and variety of colours. Then we have Violets 
in great abundance, for every hedgerow is a 
manufactory of rich perfumes, and in gardens 
the single and double kinds are in abundant 
bloom. Daisies also deserve notice, because 
though a very humble family of plants, yet are 
pleasingly decorative. The golden-leaved variety 
is always pretty in the winter, but never more 
so than in March, when, whilst the leaves are 
full of colour, the deep red flowers begin to un¬ 
fold. There is a striking contrast between the 
starry-yellow flowers of the hardy and early- 
blooming Doronicum from the Caucasus, and the 
reddish blue-flowered Pulmonaria grandillora. 
Roth these are delightful border flowers for 
March. The blue Forget-me-not, Myosotis dis- 
sitiflora, is now getting to its best, and its masses 
of oolonr are truly beautiful. We must not over¬ 
look in this imperfect resume of March flowers 
the noble Megaseas with their clusters of rosy- 
pink flowers ; but perhaps enough has been men¬ 
tioned to show that March, the month of east 
wind, is not quite so flowerless as may be by the 
ignorant imagined ; whilst in our greenhouses, 
Dielytras, Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, Cinerarias 
Cyclamens, Amaryllis, and many other things 
make the month truly gay. > 


FRUIT. 

PLANTING FRUIT TREES. 

It may seem superfluous to urge on owners of 
gardens the absolute necessity of early planting 
of fruit trees and bushes to ensure the fullest 
amount of success, for it has been done so 
repeatedly as to have lost a good deal of force. 
It is surprising how late in the season the 
demand for fruit trees continues. I have 
repeatedly seen them being sent out when in 
active growth, and when the young tender root¬ 
lets must of necessity perish in transit, for as 
soon as the drying winds of March set in all 
planting ought to be completed and the trees 
securely staked, and have a good mulching over 
the roots to guard against sudden fluctuations of 
heat and cold, drought, &c. Although the trees 
may live if planted later, it is impossible for the 
growth to be satisfactory. Last autumn we had 
a brief spell of excellent weather for tree planting, 
and those who seized the earliest opportunity 
are likely to be rewarded with good growth, but 
those who deferred planting have either had to 
put their trees into the soil reeking with 
moisture, or else to defer it beyond the limits 
that prudence would dictate or thnt in practice 
is found to answer. As a constant succession of 
storm and flood have followed each other with¬ 
out intermission, and now that we have arrived 
at the extreme limit at which planting can be 
safely carried out, it may be well to once 
more call the attention of planters to the im- 
pbrtarce of taking note during the coming year 
how their trees progress, and marking on the 

c t Go gle 


labels the date of planting, so as to serve as a 
reminder for future operations, as I feel certain 
that healthy, well-rooted trees, if planted in 
October, may be relied on to not only produce 
blossoms, but to mature fruit as well. I have 
on several occasions planted Apples on the Para¬ 
dise stock that are exceptionally well provided 
with fibrous roots close to the surface, and 
gathered a nice crop of fruit within the year of 
planting. I have heard the theory advanced 
that the soil is too cold and wet for root action 
to take place before the spring sunshine has 
warmed it by its cheering rays; bat in practice 
this is found quite a fallacy, for only a few days 
since, in lifting fruit trees of various kinds that 
had been laid in since November, I found they 
had made fresh rootlets, 2 or 3 inches in length, 
along the entire length of roots that were quite 
destitute of fibres when laid in, and I find that 
those permanently planted and mulched at the 
same date are looking most promising in the 
buds, and will, I believe, stand as good a chance 
of carrying a crop as old-established trees. 
After many years’ experience I can safely say 
there is only one way to ensure early planting 
if done on a large scale, viz., to have the soil 
trenched a considerable time before it is wanted, 
say in the winter preceding, and crop it with 
Potatoes, Carrots, or any crop that can be cleared 
off in October; then it will be in first-class con¬ 
dition for planting at once with every prospect 
of successful results.—J. Gboom. 


9308.-— Newly planted fruit trees— 
*• A. B.” asks if wall fruit trees planted last 
autumn should now be pruned and nailed. 
My plan is, with fan trained trees, to leave the 
bottom shoots at their full length, and to shorten 
the middle or more erect growing ones about 
one-third of their length as the bottom ones arc 
required to extend, and the centre one to branch 
out to fill up the centre of the tree. As regards 
nailing, I think it decidedly best not to fasten 
young shoots too tightly, only enough to pre¬ 
vent breakage and retain the form of the tree; 
the lowest branches that are intended to be 
horizontal when the tree is matured should be 
allowed to rise up in a slanting position to en¬ 
courage growth, as the main point of successful 
culture of fruit trees on walls is to keep an 
evenly-balanced growth, and the fan system of 
training is doubtless the most natural and best 
for the majority of trees; and, moreover, stone 
fruits that are liable to lose branches from 
various causes are easier filled up by means of 
} oung growth in this form than any other. As 
regards pruning, I can safely say the less of it 
the better, and the only way to avoid the use of 
the knife is by the timely removal of superfluous 
shoots, and pinching those retained for the 
formation of fruiting spurs. Young shoots 
should bo laid in on the upper side of main 
branches wherever a vacancy occurs.— James 
Ghoom. 

9320.— Frost proof fruit room— Walls 
of good concrete 12 inches thick will exclude 
almost any frost, and to match the roof should 
be of thatch laid on thickly. This roofing also 
serves to maintain a more equable temperature. 
Failing concrete or brickwork, thick walls of 
wood 8 inches through, the intermediate Bpace 
between the outer and inner casings of boards 
being filled with stuffed hay or sawdust, will do 
very well. The room should have one window 
on either Bide, but these should be protected 
outside and inside with stout shutters, over 
which in very hard weather sacks may be hung 
if needed.—A. D. 

9308— Pmninsr fruit trees— All wall 
trees, whether newly planted or not, should be 
pruned and nailed in at once. All stroDg shoots 
should be partly shortened, all thin or weak 
shoots cut clean out, as also all foreright shoots, 
that is those shoots which project direct from 
the front of the trees. In laying in or nailing, 
care should be taken that no shoots are laid 
to cross each other, or are unequally dis¬ 
tributed over the wall. There is much room 
for display of art and taste in training and 
nailing a wall tree.—A. 


Ringworm in pigs— Can anyone recom¬ 
mend a safe and effectual cure for ringworm in 
pigs; and do they know whether the flesh is 
likely to be injured or rendered unwholesome 
by this disease ?—Novice. 


VEGETABLES. 


CULTURE OF BRUSSELS SrROUTS. 

The plan of sowing the seeds of these in the 
ordinary way and at the same time at which 
early Broccoli and winter greens are sown may in 
some plaeesprove satisfactory, bat in some locali¬ 
ties a different system has to be adopted in order 
to secure them in good condition. The garden 
of which I have the care lies high, and the soil is 
cold and ungenial, circumstances which necessi¬ 
tate my devoting more than ordinary care to the 
production of this crop. The selection of a good 
strain is of great importance. There are several 
with high-sounding names, but as they are 
merely selections it is only necessary to choose 
from a good type to secure all that is desired. 

Sowing the seed— Early in March I se¬ 
lect a piece of ground that has previously been 
deeply dug and manured, and which has not 
lately been occupied by any member of the 
Brassica family, for it is important that a 
thorough rotation of crops be studied in order to 
secure the best results I then draw drills half-inch 
deep and 2 feet apart, and sufficient in number 
to meet my requirements. The seed is then 
sown very thinly in the drills and lightly covered 
over, and as soon as the plants are large enough 
to handle, we thin them out to a distance of 2 
feet from each other. By adopting this plan it 
will be seen that transplanting is done away 
with; consequently the plants receive no check. 
The tap root is not severed, consequently it 
penetrates deep down into the soil, and the 
result is that if a dry summer occurs the 
plants are in a much better condition to take 
care of themselves than those transplanted from 
a seed bed. At the end of the season, too, it 
will be found that there is a clear gain of a fort¬ 
night or three weeks in the state of the plants 
(even if sown at the same time) compared with 
those transplanted. This plan is specially to be 
recommended for those who have not the con¬ 
venience of 

Raising the plants under glass.— 

There are two ways of doing this ; a slight hot¬ 
bed may be put up about the middle of February, 
and a frame put on it. About 6 inches of soil 
should be placed in the frame, and in this the 
seed should be sown. In the same frame early 
Cauliflowers and Lettuces may be raised, and 
they will all succeed, under the same treatment, 
but there must be no coddling. They require 
plenty of air in order to get them hardy. About 
the middle of April they should be large enough 
to bo pricked out into another frame, or placed 
on a south border where they can have the 
shelter of a spare light or two for about a fort¬ 
night, after which if gradually inured to the air 
they will take care of themselves. 

Another plan is to sow the seed about the end 
of February in a cold Peach house. This is what 
I have done during the last five years, and I find 
it to answer admirably. Between the trees on 
one of the borders of an unheated Teach bouse, 
where the position is light and plenty of air ad¬ 
mitted, the seed is sown. From this seed bed the 
plants are taken as soon as they are large enough 
and pricked out 6 inches apart each way in some 
temporary frames where they have the shelter of 
glass lights night and day for eight or ten days. 
The lights are taken off in fine weather during 
the daytime and replaced at night for a week 
longer, when they are fully exposed. 

Planting out. —If all has gone well with 
the plants raised in either of the ways just 
indicated, they will be ready for planting out 
permanently by the middle of May, and this 
is not a day too early to obtain stems 2 feet 
to 3 feet high well furnished with Sprouts from 
top to bottom. The distance at which the 
plants should stand from each other should 
depend on the quality of the soil. In light, poor 
soils, whether the seed is sown where the plants 
are to stand to make their growth or the plants 
are raised in any other way, 2 feet apart each 
way I consider is the least distance apart at 
which they should be planted. In strong, rich 
soils 30 inches each way is none too much in 
order to secure a vigorous growth in all the 
crops. 

Successional crops—I find that plants 
from early-sown seeds get exhausted early in 
the winter if a mild autumn occurs, and in order 
to prevent any scarcity of Sprouts it is neces¬ 
sary to have a successional crop in case the 
earliest should run out before the season is 


March 3, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


9 


over. For this crop the seed may be sown on 
a warm border about the middle of March, 
and if sown thinly broadcast the plants ac¬ 
quire sufficient strength in the seed bed without 
being pricked out. its soon as they get large 
enough they should be planted out. The soil 
for these should be rich and deep, and if dry 
weather occurs at the time at which they are 
planted they should have two or three soakings 
of water in order to assist them to take hold of 
the soil. If put out 2 feet apart that will be 
sufficient room, as they will not get so large as 
the produce of the earliest-sown seed. It may 
not be amiss to say that through the summer 
months it is very beneficial to the crop to have 
the Dutch hoe applied vigorously between the 
plants every two or three weeks ; it will keep the 
surface open and destroy weeds. J. C. C. 


NOTES ON THE PARSNIP. 

Few vegetables are more easy of cultivation than 
this, and its cropping qualities are so great that 
it may fairly be ranked amongst the most pro¬ 
fitable of garden crops. When properly cooked 
the Parsnip is a most agreeable vegetable, and 
being tolerably free from any kind of disease, it 
is a crop that may be relied npon as a substitute 
for the Potato when the latter crop fails. The 
nutritive qualities of the Parsnip are very great, 
and where pigs are kept a quantity should be 
grown for their use, if for no other. 

Culture.—The most essential point in this 
respect is depth of soil, for when grown on 
shallow soils the crop turns out anything but 
satisfactory. Land in which Parsnips are grown 
should be tolerably riph, but should never be 
freshly manured. If manure be applied at all, 
it should be in the autumn, when it should be- 
worked deeply in the soil, for if left too near the 
surface the roots of the plants ramble after 
the pieces of manure, and thus become forked 
and comparatively useless. Ground cleared of 
crops for which it was manured answers well for 
Parsnips, but it should be deeply dug, and if 
possible trenched previous to the seed being 
sown. If the land be stiff and clayey, a liberal 
dressing of road or river sand will to a great ex¬ 
tent counteract this evil. As regards situation, 
the Parsnip is by no means particular, but the 
best results are always obtained when grown in 
a light and open quarter. 

Sowing. —This may take place in March or 
April, according to the state of the land and 
weather. It is not, however, advisable to sow 
earlier than the middle of March nor later than 
the middle of April. Parsnip seed being light 
and easily blown away with the wind, a dry 
calm day should be chosen in which to sow it 
as it can then be evenly and more steadily 
distributed in the drills. In no case should this 
crop be sown broadcast, as it is only waste of 
time and labour. The drills should bo drawn 
2 inches deep and from 9 inches to 12 inches 
asunder; and if this can be done in the morning 
and the seed be sown in the afternoon, when 
the soil will be warm, earlier germination of the 
seed will be the result When sowing is finished 
the drills should be covered in with the back of 
a rake, and the ground be firmly trodden or 
rolled with a light roller. This, however, should 
never be dene unless the soil is in a dry and 
friable condition. When the plants have risen 
2 inches or 3 inches high they should be thinned 
out by removing a few of the weakest, and a 
week or so afterwards they may be finally 
thinned so as to leave the best and strongest 
plants 9 inches apart, after which the hoe must 
be kept between the rows until the foliage gets 
too thick to allow of it being conveniently done. 

Varieties —Of these there are at present 
only two, viz., the Student and the Hollow Crown. 
The latter is a long variety, and suited only to 
very deep soils, therefore as a rule the former is 
preferable, as it grows much thicker roots, which 
are short and well flavoured. It is, however, 
advisable to try both kinds, inasmuch as some 
description of soils favour the one more than the 
other. 

Taking the crop, storing, &c— This 
may take place as soon as the foliage has fairly 
died down, but as a rule Parsnips should not be 
dug before November, they being then much better 
flavoured than any time previous. It is a 
common practice to lift the roots and store them 
away in dry sand or soil in cellars and out¬ 
houses, but when thus treated they are much 

Digitized by GOOgle 


inferior in flavour to those left in the ground 
and dug as wanted. Where, however, the ground 
is required for other purposes the best way is to 
dig up the crop, pack up in an out -of t he-wiy 
corner of the garden, cover up with dry straw r 
Fern, and pack a good coat of soil over ti e 
whole to exclude frost and rain; or a trench may 
be dug out and the roots packed in it closely to¬ 
gether, and have a few inches of soil placed over 
them. S. 


PERPETUAL SPINACH. 

This is a good Spinach, which can be had both 
in summer and winter by making two sowings 
at different times, and when well grown it is 
equal to either the early round-leaved or the 
late prickly-seeded or winter Spinach. For early 
spring crops nothing equals the round-leaved ; 
and for autumn and winter crops the prickly- 
seeded is the best where it does well, but upon 
heavy clay and very wet soils the crops are often 
nearly failures. 

The perpetual Spinach seems to grow luxuri¬ 
antly on any soil and at all seasons of the year, 
and being a gross feeder one can give the plants 
a good quantity of liqnid or other manure. From 
one sowing made in the first or second week in 
April I get a good supply of fine large leaves 
during the summer. In hot dry weather the 
ronnd-leaved Spinach is liable to run early to 
seed ; therefore it produces but few leaves, and 
those of only second quality. The perpetual sort 
grows well in hot weather, and by feeding the 
plants freely with artificial manure one is able 
to get from the spring sowing a good supply 
during the summer and autumn. The second 
sowing must be made early in July in order to 
give the plants time to get well established be¬ 
fore winter, and from these one is able to have a 
good supply in proportion to the piece of ground 
devoted to the crop. 

In severe winters nearly the whole of our 
prickly Spinach has been killed, while our crop 
of the perpetual withstood the severe frost; 
therefore we had plenty to pick from until the 
round-leaved was fit for use, and also the spring 
sown crop of the perpetual. The latter with¬ 
stood the hot, dry weather of sun mer, and pro¬ 
duced a plentiful supply of good Spinach. Ground 
for this Spinach is either dug deeply, or, better 
still, trenched, working into it deeply at the 
same time plenty of rotten mannre for the roots 
to feed upon. 

The seed may cither be sown broadcast upon 
the beds, or in rows 12 inches apart, thinning 
the plants in the rows to from 6 inches to 9 inches 
asunder. I prefer rows, as they afford a better 
opportunity for keeping the ground free from 
weeds, and iE need be artificial manure can be 
sown between the rows, hoeing it in deeply with 
a draw hoe. I find superphosphate or bone meal 
one of the best manures for Spinach; it seems 
to invigorate the plants in a very short time after 
being used. Liqnid manure from the farmyard 
is, however, quite as good, only it requires to be 
oftener used during the season. I find two 
good dressings of bone meal to carry a crop on 
for six months. W. C. 


IIOW TO GROW MUSHROOMS. 

9277.—Mushrooms may be grown in pots, 
boxes, or hampers. Eatffi box may be 3 feet 
long, H feet broad, and 7 inches in depth. 
Let each box be half filled with horse manure 
from the stables (the fresher the better), and if 
wet to be dried for three or four days before it 
is put into the boxes ; the manure is to be well 
beaten down in the box. After the second or third 
day, if any heat has arisen amongst the manure, 
break each spawn brick into three parts as 
equally as possible; then lay the pieces about 
4 inches apart upon the surface of the manure in 
the box. Here they are to lie for six days, when 
it will probably be found that the side of the 
spawn next to the manure has begun to run in the 
manure below ; then add 1 h inch more of fresh 
manure on the top of the spawn in the box, and 
beat it down as formerly. In the course of a 
fortnight, when you find that the spawn has 
run through the mannre, the box will be ready to 
receive the mould at the top ; this mould must 
be 2.J inches deep, well beaten down, and the sur¬ 
face "made quite oven. In the space of five or 
six weeks the Mushrooms will begin to 
come up; if then the mould seems dry, 
give a gentle watering with luke warm 
water. The box will continue to produce for 


from six weeks to two months, if duly attended to 
by giving a little water when dry, for they need 
neither light nor free air. If cut as button 
mushrooms, each box will yield from twenty- 
four to forty-eight pints, according to the season 
and other circumstances. They may be kept in 
dry, dark cellars, or any other places where the 
frost will not reach them ; and by preparing in 
succession of boxes, Mushrooms may be had all 
the year through. They may be grown without 
the manure, and be of a finer flavour. Take a 
little straw, and lay it carefully in the bottom 
of the Mushroom-box, about an inch thick or 
rather more. Then take some of the spawn 
bricks and break them down, each brick in 
about ten pieces, and lay the fragments on the 
straw as close to each other as they will lie. 
Cover them up with mould 3.} inches deep, and 
well pressed down. When the surface appears 
dry give a little tepid water, as directed for the 
last way of raising them ; but this method needs 
about double the quantity of water that the 
former does, owing to having the moisture in the 
bottom, while the other has the manure. The 
Mushrooms will begin to start in a month or 
five weeks, sometimes sooner, sometimes later, 
according to the heat of the place where the 
boxes are situated. The spawn may be obtained 
of seedsmen or be collected from the meadows. 

Celer et Audax. 


I’LANTING POTATOES. 

Very soon now will gardeners of all classes be 
thinking of getting in their early Potatoes, but 
it will be wise this season at least to exercise 
patience, for the soil is very wet and cold, and 
the long immunity we have enjoyed from frost 
does but lead to the conviction that we may have 
a cold spring and late frosts. Now' in spite of all 
that has been written from time to time in favour 
of both early planting and late autumn plant¬ 
ing, it is the experience of all good growers of 
the Potato that the best crops invariably come 
from those planted late enough to have tleir 
growth in no way checked by soil or frosts, and 
which as a rule are quickest in doing their work 
under ground. Two things of considerable im¬ 
portance should govern the planting of early 
kinds; first,, the condition of the soil, and second, 
the probable nature of the season. Tims if the 
soil be naturally loose and dry—is indeed rather 
sandy than clayey and retentive of moisture—it 
is evident that so long aB below frost the tubers 
cannot suffer, and may perchance lie more dor¬ 
mant in this soil than in the Potato store. It is 
so entirely a question of stiff or free working 
soils, that themerest tyro in gardening will 1 ave 
no difficulty in deciding according to the nature 
of the soil ii his garden, whether early p’anting 
is wise or not. The natvre of the sea:on is also 
a matter of considerable importance, because 
with a mild temperature such as prevailed for 
the past few weeks early sorts of Potatoes 
would be induced to make growth rapidly, and 
an early appearance of the tors above ground 
could but lead to disaster, except wht re there 
were special means for givir g protects n. Cold 
weather from tl e time of plint ng wonld keep 
the tubers in check in the soil, still it is difficult 
to see what would be gained by very early plant¬ 
ing if the tubers did but lii as dormant in the 
soil as they would out of it. 

Those gardeners who have ample frame room 
for the growth of early Potatoes are almost inde¬ 
pendent of the seasons, and very much so are 
those who, having a warm south border and 
plant early, can protect the tops by erecting a 
lath framework about 12 inches or 15 inches in 
height, and throwing over it at night mats, old 
pieces of carpet, or any other frost-resisting 
material. Even strawmaybeused for the purpose, 
and thus dispense with the framework of wood, but 
then it is costly and very untidy. Still, better 
endure that evil than lose the crop of Potatoes. 
Averyadmirable plan toobtain an evenearlycrop 
is to plant up, say a couple of hundred tubers of 
any early kind in small pots, so that the tops of 
the tubers from which the shoots come are but 
just beneath the soil. When the shoots are well 
through it is easy to thin out all the small ones, 
leaving only one very strong shoot or a couple of 
weaker ones. When the growth is 6 inches in 
height, they may he planted out, and there is 
special advantage in planting the strongest 
together and the weaker ones later, so that 
when the roots are lifted for the young tubers, 
each one comes out very much alike in size of 
tubers and in produce. Where planted in the 



10 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 3 , 1883 . 


open border, it ia evident that they will be as 
forward or more so as are those planted a month 
earlier direct into the soil. Of course, gentle 
warmth is desirable to promote the growth in 
pots, but only a very little extra heat will suffice, 
and the plants should be kept very near to the 
glass. Inplantingthesepottubersout intoframes, 
they may not only be put in about 12 inches apart, 
but also may be partly earthed up at once with 
fine leaf-soil, andwillgivenofurther trouble until 
ready for lifting. It is very much the rule to 
plant the earliest kinds of Potatoes first because 
they push growth first, but it is simply necessary 
to spread the seed tubers out thinly in a cool airy 
place to keep the growth from going ahead too 
fast, to have them as fit for planting in May as 
in March. No doubt it would be wiser were we 
to plant all our strong-growing late kinds first, 
say, from the middle of March to the middle of 
April, and then during the end of the latter 
month get in the first early sorts, for if the seed 
were well prepared and started, as all good seed 
of early kinds should be, these early ones would 
still be ahead of the earlier planted but later 
sorts. 

The host kinds for the earliest planting are 
such late sorts as Reading Hero, Magnum 
Bonum, Vicar of Laleham, Champion, Pride of 
the Market, and similar robust sorts. For first 
early use few, if any, growers care for coloured, 
varieties. There is an obvious reason for this. 
All young new Potatoes are simply scraped and 
not peeled, and in the case of coloured kinds the 
mere scraping off of the outer skins does not 
remove the colouring matter which is found 
between that and the flesh. Later on when the 
skins are set and the tubers have to be peeled, 
the colouring matter goes with the rind. Of 
Kidney kinds, the best are the Aslileaf, as known 
under its various aliases of Myatt's, Veitch’s, ice.; 
Mona's Pride, which is a green-stemmed Walnut 
leaf; Duke of Albany, a rather rough-looking 
kind, but really a white form of Beauty of 
Hebron; and Victor, a dwarf-topped sort, well 
fitted for pot culture. Of Round sorts, the best 
are Early Cluster, Early Market—both very 
dwarf, Early Border, Fox’s .Seedling, Feltham 
White, White Emperor, Early Eight Weeks, and 
Premier, the two latter being like early forms of 
Climax. A. D. 


SOWING PEAS. 

The best land for Peas is a light vegetable soil 
(with little or no manure) that has been cropped 
last year with Celery or Potatoes that have been 
liberally supplied with horse manure. If the land 
be heavy, it must bo well turned over with tho 
spade, and a good supply of new stable litter be 
given at the same time, which will have the 
effect of making the land light and porous, and it 
enables the young shoots to come more readily 
through. The drills should be made on the level 
ground, and should not be less than a foot wide, 
and they should be from 4 feet to 6 feet apart, 
according to the character of Pea grown. The 
ground should be as little trodden upon as 
possible, as Peas like a free open soil. The 
seed should be sown thinly, each seed 
having plenty of room to develop a robust 
plant, as it is impossible for a plant to 
bear a large number of well-filled pods if 
the roots have not sufficient room wherein to 
procure a good supply of food. It will surprise 
many new beginners when I tell them that as 
many as 129 pods have been taken from one 
plant last year, but each seed was sown more 
i han a foot from its fellow. This goes to prove 
that a good pea, with high cultivation and a 
favourable season, is a profitable crop. The drills 
should run from north to south, that the sun may' 
get at both side3 of the rows. When the young 
plants have come fairly through they should be 
lightly covered up with loose soil, to keep them 
from the ravages of birds; also the soil should 
be kept well stirred about the surface with a rake 
to keep slugs and snails at a distance. Fine coal 
ashes are useful to dust about the roots of the 
young plants, which not only protects from in¬ 
sects, but is also a light covering through which 
the young shoots readily push, and it also gives a 
lit tie nourishment as the finer particles are washed 
down to the roots. Sharp-pointed pea sticks 
should be pushed down along each side the drills 
when the plants are 2 inches or 3 inches high, 
but care must be taken not to damage the roots 
by pushing the sticks down too near to the 
plants. Where good, smooth sticks are not pro¬ 
curable it is best to grow dwarf or medium sorts. 

Digitized by GoOgle 


as there is an abundant assortment of really 
good podding kinds that grow from 1 foot to 
3 feet in height, some of which require no sticks 
whatever. In gathering the crop, it is much 
better to use a strong pair of scissors to cut the 
pods from the plants, as in pulling them off 
with the hands the plants are broken, and the 
half-filled pods have not the chance to swell out, 
which is an occasion of much waste. In con¬ 
clusion, I would advise sowing late rather than 
too early, especially anywhere in the north of 
England, as my experience goes to prove that 
the sparrows take a large proportion of all early- 
sown Peas in late districts. G. C. 

Eceles. 


Notes on Onions. — In Gardening, 
January 27, page 671, “ G. C.,” in notes on 
Onions, says, “ You must give a heavy dressing 
of manure, and this must be buried lightly, as 
Onion roots go such a little way down.'' From 
this I differ very much, and I think everyone 
who has grown Onions must know there are not 
many, if any, deeper-rooted vegetables than 
Onions. I have seen them from 12 inches to 15 
inches underground when I have dug the bed 
over after clearing the Onions off, especially indry 
summers. In regard to “ burying the manure in 
lightly,’’ I differ entirely from “ G. C.,” as when the 
manure comes in contact with the bulb, which it 
must do if only just buried, it causes them to rot. 
I grow Onions largely for exhibition and market 
purposes, and the varieties I grow are Magnum 
Bonum and White Spanish. I dig my Onion 
bed very deeply, or trench it and manure it 
about October, and leave it all the winter until 
March, or until the ground is in a fit state to 
work. I then rake it down, and draw drills 
and sow the seed. No one can state the exact 
time of sowing, as everyone must be guided by 
his own soil; some years it can be sown the 
first week in March, and sometimes not until the 
last week, and I think that in choosing a good 
time for sowing, much of my success in Onion 
growing may be attributed. I always find that 
a good beginning results in a good ending.— 
E. S., Maidstone. 

-Ui dor this heading, “ G. C., Eccles ” (p. 

571), in giving hints to “novices” on sowing 
Onion seed, makes the following remarks : “ To 
begin with you must give a heavy dressing of 
horse manure”—which, by the way, he does not 
say whether it onght to be rotted or put on 
fresh from tho stable, and as it reads I think in¬ 
experienced persons will understand that the 
latter condition is meant, and which would be 
about the very worst preparation for Onions, and 
more particularly so on light soils. Continuing, 
he says, “ and this should be buried lightly. The 
fact is, the roots of an Onion go such a little 
way down into the soil, that their food must be 
at hand, or they will never find it.” Is this the 
fact ? If so, I have been entirely mistaken, for I 
have always considered the Onion a deep-rooting 
plant, and have prepared the ground for it 
accordingly, and I believe the opinion of the 
majority of market gardeners is quite contrary 
to that of “G. C.” Not wishing to be too confident 
in my own opinion, however, I should like some 
other authorities to give us their opinions, and 
endeavour to set us right.—W. S. F. 

Peas In trenches. —A friend of mine and 
myself adopted the following plan of sowing 
Peas, and we noted that Peas thusplanted yielded 
nearly double the crop that others planted in 
the ordinary way bore. Firstdigatrcnchaboutthe 
same depth as one would for Celery, and put in 
some good manure, and cover it with earth, say 
an inch deep, and then sow the Peas (first soak¬ 
ing them in paraffin) ; by so doing they are not 
palatable to mice or any other vermin; then 
cover them up in the ordinary way. As soon as 
the Peas get high enough, keep putting the 
remaining earth in the trench till it is level, and 
then put the sticks in. Whoever tries this 
method will find themselves amply repaid for 
the little extra trouble.— James Caine. 

9295.— Crops for clayey land. —In reply 
to “ F, A.,” I should advise him to grow Potatoes, 
Myatt's Prolific Kidney for early use, and Regents 
for a late variety. I lived for years on a farm 
of which almost all the land was a heavy clay. 
AVe used to grow the kind of early Potato named, 
as well as several other varieties for first use, 
and the produce was always dry and floury, al¬ 
though we had to throw away all the others as 
quite unfit for use. The Myatt's Prolific is a 
good kind for yielding, although most seedsmen 


now prefer others ; but I have never found its 
equal yet. The Regents, too, are a better kind 
than Magnum Bonum for heavy land, as they 
always eat dry and white, even in such wet seasons 
as we liave had recently. They are not quite so 
prolific as the Kidney, which I have named, but 
for those who prize quality as much as quantity, 
1 consider them unsurpassed, that is for culture 
on clay land. I do not care for the Early Rose, 
which “ F. A.” speaks of, for I have found that 
they are very wet in eating, and very much pre¬ 
disposed to disease, except in dry seasons and on 
dry land.—J. AV. A. 

9398.— Onions and Carrots for exhi¬ 
bition. —The best Onion to grow for exhibition 
in the summer is the Giant Kocca, seed being 
sown the last week in August, the plants standing 
the winter, and then dibbled out 12 inches apart 
in good soil at the end of March. For autumn 
and winter exhibition the best Onion is some 
good strain of white Spanish sown in good 
holding soil early in the spring, the youDg plants 
being well thinned out when strong enough. 
The best show Carrots for the Bummer is the 
Early NaDtes, sown in a frame or warm border 
early in March, and for the antnmn and winter 
Scarlet Intermediate, sown in deep holding soil 
early in April.—D. 

9303.— Crops between Peas.—If Sunrise 
Peas, which will grow 3 feet in height are 
sown in rows 3 feet apart and arc then stuck, 
there will be no room for other crops between, 
but if allowed to lie on the ground Cabbage or 
Lettuce plants may be put between the rows.— 
D. 

9288.— Onion grub- The best plan when 
the Onion grub infests a piece of ground is to 
grow on it for a couple of years some other crop 
upon which the grub cannot prey, and to sow 
Onion seed in a diverse fresh piece of ground 
When the grab appears it may be kept in check 
by frequent dressings of soot, but no positive cure 
is known. Kg manure is so far unfit for seed 
beds that it is more productive of maggots of 
many kinds than is any other kind of animal 
manure.—D. 

9341.— Seakale roots.— Cut the roots into lengths ot 
3 or 4 Inches, and plant In tine soil. The pieces will pro¬ 
duce crowns from one etui and roots from the other, and 
will soon make good plants for use again.—W. Hakri 
Barnstaple. 

Sowing Rhubarb seed — Will any of your readers 
inform me of the best way to sow Rhubarb aeed, and time 
to sow it, and how long It will take to get roots ready tor 
forcing 1—A MATF.l'R. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES, 


9270.— Cropping a negleoted. garden. 

—It is very advisable that an old, neglected 
garden should be well dressed once or twice 
either witli hot slaked lime or fresh soot to kill 
slugs, which, especially in such a soft, damp sea¬ 
son as is the present, are sure to be abundant. 
The lime or Boot should be sown pretty densely 
in the evening that it may come into contact 
with the vermin when on the soil. Good horse 
or stable manure is much better fitted for garden 
land, and especially for stiff land, than is night- 
soil. This latter, however, may be used with ad¬ 
vantage, but should first be mixed with decom¬ 
posed rubbish, ashes, or similar material, and be 
several times turned or mixed before applying it 
to the soil. An old bed of Strawberry plants 
had better remain for the present year, but 
would be much helped by dressings of guano 
and liquid manure. A fresh bed should be made 
in the autumn from strong runners and following 
upon early Potatoes or Peas, and the old bed 
may be destroyed. Gooseberry bushes, if neg-. 
lected in pruning, should be thinned by means 
of a sharp knife, the soil about them forked and 
cleaned and then dressed with manure. As soon 
as portions of the soil are manured and dug, 
early Peas and Broad Beans may be sown, the 
former in rows 3 feet apart and the latter at 
2 feet apart. Celery should be sown at once in 
a pan under glass to get strong plants to go out 
in trenches in the summer. Carrot seed may be 
sown on a finely prepared surface next month, 
and Cabbage seed may be sown at once. Turnip 
seed should not be sown till August, as Turnips 
are of little value during hot weather. The 
weekly cultural directions in this paper shonld 
be followed.—A. D. 

-“ In Difficulty ” says he has an old garden 

which he wishes to devote to vegetables. He 
has a Strawberry bed which is much neglected. 




March 3, 1883.] 


GAEDENIJVG ILLUSTRATED 


11 


He also says that the garden is infested with 
snails, and asks should he lime the land before 
manuring ? As it is clay land he asks would night- 
soil be beneficial to it? Clear (with a fork) all 
rubbish from about the Gooseberry bushes, and 
give them a good top-dressing with night-soil. 
Turn all the land over except where the Celery 
is to stand, and when doing so give a liberal 
supply of night-soil, taking care not to bury it 
too deeply. You cannot give clay land too much 
clean (free from pots and rubbish) night-fibil. 
Next, take out the Celery trenches 6 inches or 9 
inches deep, and fill to the depth of 6 inches with 
horse manure. The bottom of the trenches 
should be well dug over before putting in the 
manure. When planting the Cabbages it would 
be well to give them a little horse manure (in 
addition to the night-soil dug into the land), but 
the Beans, Teas, Carrots, and Turnips will not 
require it. It is too lat e this season to lime the 
land, it would be best to give agood top-dressing 
with lime about October, when all the crops are 
gathered. Give the Strawberry bed a slight top- 
dressing with horse manure, first weeding the 
bed well.—G. C., Eccles. 

9279.— Permanent hotbeds— It will be 
a very undesirable arrangement if, in converting 
an old orchard-house into a block of hotbeds, 
the manure for heating which is also within the 
covered space. Heating manure must of neces¬ 
sity emit a large quantity of steam or vapour, 
and this condensing causes damp. Unless 
ample air or ventilation is given, and that means 
the introduction of much cold air as well as the 
escape of steam, the plants within would greatly 
suffer. Wood is certainly better to form plates 
on which to run the lights than any kind of 
metal; as being non-conductive, it is far less 
affected by heat and cold. The run or pitch of 
the roof should be about 1J inches per foot to 
give free run for the rain. Breadth and depth 
of the house must depend upon local conditions, 
but 4 feet in depth and 8 feet in breadth would 
be ample. In any case the beds in it should be 
made up as near the glass as possible before 
any seeds are sown or plants put in.—D. 

9208.— Plants for window oaee.— As 
“ Roquelle ” does not wish for pots in the 
window case, I would advise him to cover the 
bottom of the frame with half an inch of cement, 
sloping it to one corner, so that all superfluous 
water will drain away, as the worst of all enemies 
to plants in cases is stagnant moisture. After 
the cement has set hard, cover the bottom with 
two or three inches of clinkers, or anything 
rough that will make good drainage, then the 
roughest portions of the soil, or what is perhaps 
better, some dried Moss, and then the soil on the 
top. Rockwork might be put into it, as another 
correspondent suggests, and ferns be planted, 
which I think would repay best for the trouble. 
The soil for them should be sandy peat. The 
case should be so constructed as to allow either 
sides or top to open for air-giving. — W. G. 
Jewitt. 

9282.— Making a lawn.— A rough piece 
of ground on which it is purposed to make a 
lawn must first be well cleaned from Couch- 
grass and other weeds, and that can only be 
done by frequent forking; whether turfed or 
sown, the ground must be both clean and solid. 
It must also be fine on the surface, and very 
evenly levelled. Turf is best, though at the first 
costly; failing that, seed may be sown pretty 
thickly the first week in April on a dry day. It 
most be sown with great care and very evenly. 
Mixtures suitable for lawn, a description of the 
nature of the soil being sent, can always be ob¬ 
tained from good seed houses cheaply. Birds 
mast be kept from the seed, and in dry weather, 
alter the blade has sprung, the roller must be 
freely used till the grass be thick enough for 
the mower to be employed.—A. D. 

- I'erhaps if “M. M. D.” were to manure 

his ground this spring, and plant it with 
Potatoes, he might be able to get rid of the 
Couch grass and duckweed which are coming 
up so thickly. The frequent grubbing and 
toeing which the Potato crop requires during the 
summer months help very much to keep down 
the weeds, and if the ground be dug after the 
crop is lifted, the exposure to the wint< t's frosts 
will prepare it for being levelled and raked and 
mwn down the following spring. If turf of good 
quality can be got, a smooth and level lawn may 
he mile in a very Bhort time,Sant if it contains 
Dandelions, or Daisies, or(Planialkn, )k>tii£r > 


coarse weeds—not to mention Couch grass—and 
if the soil is somewhat damp, “ M. 31. D. ” will 
probably regret that he did not wait a year 
longer before making his lawn. He cannot get 
the Couch grass and Chickweed effectually rooted 
out this year without the Potato crop.—P. It. 

-Cover the piece of ground intended for 

a lawn with good grass sods (the top turf off a 
pasture field). First level down the ground, 
and cover it as evenly as possible ; then roll well 
with a heavy roller. By this means he will have 
a good lawn this summer. The weeds now on 
the ground will be smothered by the sods. The 
great secret in keeping a lawn nice, is in having 
it regularly cut and rolled. All house slops are 
good fertilisers for lawns.— G. C., Eeclca. 

9283.— Liquid manure.— The liquid in a 
large cesspool or pit, whether of house sewage or 
similarly produced, would be about equable in 
nntritiveness, even though it were clear on the 
surface and the sediment were at the bottom. 
The sediment would in such a large body of 
water have parted with its manurial properties, 
which the water would hold in solution, but, of 
course, the manurial value of such water would 
depend upon the amount of solids mixed with it, 
and perchance would be worth very little as a 
manure, though, perhaps, worth much as an 
irrigant in dry weather. If an ordinary iron 
lift pump is too costly, a common galvanised 
iron bucket dropped into the pit through a lid 
would bring up the liquid in as useful a form as 
a pump would.—D. 

9309 — Straw for hotbed.— The addition 
of dry inert straw to a bulk of stable manure 
for the making of a hotbed would be of doubtful 
value. The bulk would be increased, but no 
heating power would be gained. Straw alone, 
even if ever so fresh, if damped and put into 
bulk, would but rot. It is the manure added to 
a good quantity of straw from a stable and 
animal urine which creates fermentation, and 
hence its product heats. Spare straw placed on 
and around a hotbed after it is made up 
would be of service in protecting the fermenting 
manure from raiDs and cold winds, but mixed 
with the manure would not help it in any way.— 
A. D. 

9318.—Garden ploughs.—Garden ploughs 
may be useful in large places where there is 
ample space to work such implements profitably 
and a stout pony is also available; but the work 
performed would compare badly with what is 
done by the fork or spade and hand labour. In 
a small garden a plough would be useless, and 
as with even a good pony it could not be set'to 
plough deeper than 4 inches or 6 inches, the 
cultivation would be worthless for all garden 
crops. Where a horse-hoe or cultivator can be 
used between garden crops, much good may be 
done, but forks and garden hoes would doubtless 
do the same work more effectively.—A. D. 

9240.— English grown Tobacco. — I 
recollect hearing my father say that when he 
was a boy (some sixty or more years ago) he saw 
large fields of Tobacco in Ireland, I forget in 
what part, and that a considerable industry was 
springing up, but the cultivation was prohibited 
by the authorities. Tobacco is very largely 
grown in Brittany, where the mean tem¬ 
perature is about the same as in the south of 
England, and a great deal of this Breton grown 
weed is manufactured and sold under the name 
of “ Maryland Tobacco,” or “ Tabac de Mary- 
and.’—W. T. Greene, F. Z. S. 

9286.— Raising vegetable and flower 
seeds. —Seeds may be grown in such a room as 
J. Clayton’s if there be no gas consumed in it. 
The window should be left open about half an 
inch at the top only, night and day, with the 
door kept shut. The seed should be sown in 
boxes, with the soil an inch or more from the 
top, and these boxes should each have a sheet of 
glass placed over them to keep in the moisture, 
and to equalise the temperature. The room 
might be made useful in the summer months for 
growing cool greenhouse plants, particularly 
Ferns.—G. C., Ecclea. 

9317— How to plant amaze— The plant¬ 
ing of a maze in one's garden is not a very wise 
thing to do under any circumstances, as such 
planting never can be artistic, and the ground is 
as good as wasted. In any case a maze should 
be planted only on a large scale with some quick 
growing Bhrub that is dense in the summer at 
least. Trivet would do very well, so also would 
Laurel, but Yew is the best. All would require 


much regular clipping. A design that is intri¬ 
cate or involved should be traced on paper, then 
marked out on the ground to be planted, giving 
a width of 4 feet between every hedge.—A. 

9285.— Hyacinths failing. —lly Hyacinths 
have nearly all failed in the same way as men¬ 
tioned by “Heran.'' I have some of Baron Von 
Thuyll, Charles Dickens, Anna Maria Veronica, 
L’Ami du Coeur (red), &c., in pots and glasses, 
kept in the dark till the roots got to the bottom. 
The leaves grow about 4 inches or 5 inches high, 
and the flower spike begins to bloom at about 
l inch or 2 inches high, and in some before it is 
scarcely out of the bulb. Perhaps the very mild 
weather has something to do with it. Those in 
beds out of doors are not up enough yet to see if 
they are going the same way.— Wood Green. 

9308. — Newly planted fruit trees.— 

These should be nailed in at once, cutting back 
all branches that cross or interfere with others 
in any way, and nailing in the remainder, using 
soft shreds of cloth for the pnrposc, making 
them fast enough to kosp them from being 
rubbed against the wall by the wind, but not so 
tight as to interfere with the circulation of the 
sap, as either extreme will cause gumming. It 
is a good plan to mulch newly planted trees 
with half decayed manure.—W. G. Jewitt. 

9307.— Ants on Peach treeB.— Drop some 
quicklime on the mouth of their nest, and wash 
in with boiling water, or dissolve some camphor 
in spirits of wine, then mix with water and pour 
into their haunts, or tobacco water, which has 
been found effectual. They are averse to strong 
scents. Camphor will prevent their infesting a 
cupboard, or a sponge saturated with creosote. 
To prevent their climbing up trees, place a ring 
of tar about the truuk, or a circle of rag 
moistened occasionally with creosote.— Celer 
et Audax. 

9314.— Unlevel tennis lawn.— If the 

Grass on an uneven lawn is dense to bear lifting, 
the best thing to do is to take off the turf in rolls, 
and having made the surface of the soil quite 
level and smooth, to relay the turf, and beat and 
roll it down smooth and firm. In other cases 
stones may be gathered off, the humps in the 
Grass beaten down, the hollows raised, and sown 
with soot, which will help to promote a free 
growth of grass. D. 

9255.— Manuring garden. — If “ Ayr¬ 
shire’s ’’ garden has been cropped for the last two 
years, he may take it for granted that the ma¬ 
nure is exhausted, and that it will require a sup¬ 
ply this year as formerly. I think he will be 
disappointed in the results if he substitutes 
guano alone, but a weak solution of guano may 
be useful to some vegetables and flowers when 
other manure is deficient. I 5 . R. 

9316.— Mice and Crocuses.— IfCrocuso 3 
or Peas be soaked for a short time in water be” 
fore being planted, and then laid out on a news" 
paper and freely dusted with either Paris green 
or red lead, both highly poisonous, it is not. at 
all probable that mice would further trouble 
either the bulbs or seeds ; flat tile traps are also 
most useful if properly set on the surface near 
where the mice work, D. 

9304.— Wood-ashes.— The ashes of wood 
or vegetable matter of any kind, if thoroughly 
burnt, always makeexcellent manure, and should 
be spread evenly over the surface of any vacant 
pieces of ground and be dug in. As the ten¬ 
dency of such compounds is to lighten the soil, 
of course ashes would be more useful on stiff 
soils, and agood dressingof strong manure would 
best help the light land.—A. D. 

9355.— Climbing Trench Beans. — 

When I lived in Brittany some years ago, we had 
an excellent kind of Bean, called Puis d la Reine. 
It was a very high climber I recollect, and was 
cooked in the pod, without slitting. When ripe 
the seeds were quite round like peas, but re¬ 
sembling in colour the ordinary white Haricot 
Bean.—W. T. Greene, F. Z. S. 

9322.— Plants for walls. —The following 
might be tried, and I think would do well and 
give satisfaction :—Jasminum nudiflorum, Coto- 
neaster microphylla, and Clematis Jackmani. 
The soil might be made a little better for the 
Clematis by adding some rotten manure and 
good loam —W. G. Jewitt. 

9309. —Btraw for hotbed.— “ Tomato " 
should thoroughly mix his packing straw with 




12 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 3, 1883. 


the manure when it is first brought out, and 
throw a few pails of water on to it to cause it to 
heat, and then work it up in the usual way.—W. 
G. Jewitt. 

9315.—American bliflrht—A simple cure for Ameri 
can blight on Apple trees Is to paint with paraffin oil, 
using an old paint brush. An occasional application of 
the oil during the summer suffices to kill the pest.—D. 

-Paint the effected parts with linseed oil and 

paraffin oil—two parts of linseed to one of paraffin. 
W. Harris, Barnstaple. 

9304. — Wood ash as manure. — This is a capital 
manure for almost any kind of crop. “Grocer" should 
spread it over the ground and dig it in before planting 
vegetables.—W. G. Jewitt. 

9318.—Garden ploughs.—If " J. J. B."will write 
to J. Scarliff, Sutton-oil-Trent. Notts., he will obtain all 
particulars relative to the implement he requires.— 

White Clove.— Abundant information was given on 
the Carnation in Gardening last year, and no doubt 
more will bo lorthcoming in due season. 

Parsnips.—The treatment suggested will answer 
very well. One plant only must be lelt to each hole. 

The Little Gardener.— We fear we cannot help you; the 

numbers are of no use to us.- Westfield.—We cannot 

give a return* of the merits of lawn mowers advertised 
by different makers. All have some so-called special 
advantage, but if you get a good machine from a good 

shop it is of little consequence who is the maker.- J. 

if. and A. II. i/.—“ Orchid Growers’ Manual," by B. 8. Wil¬ 
liams, Victoria Nurseries, Upper Holloway, London, N. 

-—if. J?.A’.—Procure young plants (runners) in June or 
July, and pot them in good yellow loam. Winter them 
in a cold frame and introduce into heat as needed 

in spring.- J. J. A—Your best way would be to write 

to the secretaries of a few similar societies and get a 
copy of their rules, and from these frame your own. 
—— Subscriber. T. T.— Pull Information has lately been 
given in GARDENING in regard to Mistletoe We fear 
you will have some difficulty in getting berries now. 

J. B., Wolverhampton .—We do not think that ordinary 
crops would pay. Early salads, early Rhubarb, early 
Cauliflower, and such crops might pay, and if you kept a 
few pigs, fowls, Ac., you would provide an outlet for 
waste vegetables, Ac., get a supply of manure, and 
give a man plenty of work to occupy hia whole time. 

—-E. T. B .—See last week’s Gardening.- Enquirer. 

—If well worked by a man who thoroughly understood 
Grape growing and had some knowledge of the require 
merit of the market it would no doubt prove a success. 
We would make another suggestion if we had your 

name and address, which you omitted to give.- Mrs. T. 

—From our office, price Ijd. each post free. On condi¬ 
tion that they are sent to us, and are reliable. 

***&-Sn some of the large »eed and bulb houses. 
—«■ AT.—Get the last three volumes of Gardening 
and you will get more information than is contained in any 

book on gardening.- K .—A small hot water apparatus 

would decidedly be the best. As to the cost, you can best 
ascertain this by Bending to each advertiser named for 
an estimate. 

QUERIES. 

Roles, for Correspondents .—AU communis 

mans for insertion should be clearly and concisely written 
on one side qf the paper only and addressed to the Editor. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
and address qf the sender is required, in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title qf the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each sAould 
be on a separate piece qf paper. Owing to the necessity 01 
Gardening going to press a considerable time be/ore the 
day qf publication, it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 


9368. -Cropping a firarden.-Can any reader give 
information on the following. I have just moved into a 
new house. The garden (50 yards by 20 yards, with an 
incline of l in 40) has been part of an old field allowed to 
run wild ; south-east aspect. I turned It up roughly last 
November and picked out stones, Ac., and have just 
turned it over again. I found the soil as followsabout 
6 inches top, dark loam ; below, 8 inches clay; sub-soil 
sand, and in some parts great quantities of iron-pan ; of 
different colours, dark, yellow, and light; generally of a 
heavy, clayey nature. How shall I go to work, and what 
shall I plant ? Is it too late for planting fruit trees ? Is 
the soil suitable for potatoes ?—A Young Beginner. 

9369. —Grubs on fruit trees.— We have been very 
much troubled for two or three years past with grubs on 
our Pear, Apple, and Cherry trees. As soon as the buds 
begin to expand and the leaves to develop, we find one 
and sometimes three or four grubs in each leaf, which 
they roll up with a kind of web and from the leaves they 

f ro into the blossom, which they completely destroy No 
nsecticide seems to kill them, the great difficulty being 
to get at them as they are rolled up in the leaves. There 
are two kinds, one a Bmall brown grub like the Rose 
grub, the other a pale green, about half an inch long 
when fully developed. How can I destroy them?—W. C. 

. 937 . 0 ;^?.°^ e 5. l n erreenhouse.—T-nst year x grow 
two Martchal Niel Kosob in pots in a Bmall greenhouse 
and each threw up a long, dean shoot about 6 feet long’ 
This winter I put the roots In the ground and formed an 
arch under the wall of the house with plenty of go, d 
rotten manure under.the roots and in the border outside 
taking Otr all the shoots but tho threo top ones which 
are now about 8 inches long and showing flower.’ Ought 
b L°?, m ° r niP, olfX As an amateur, 1 
vi p ofI the bDds 11 would strengthen the siem 
teitructcd t>y j°B m it Ml " tblck ' 1 wouW pleased to be 

9371.-Trop®qlum Bpeelosum.-Can anyone In- 
form mo whether this can l>e grown satisfactorily within 
a mile of the sea, in one of the north-eastern counties of 


England, as I have been repeatedly told when in Scot¬ 
land that It will not grow south of the Border ? I have seen 
it growing to great perfection in various parts of Perth¬ 
shire. I have several times brought plants out of the 
open ground and established plants in pot* from Scot- 
laud. but they all foiled with me. I know it will grow In 
England, for I have had established plants In pots from 
London, but they also failed.—M. H. 

9372. —Gas boiler. —I wish to heat a lean-to green¬ 
house, which is 18 feet long, 6 feet wide, 7 feet at back, 
and 3 feet 6 inches front. My neighbours object to having 
wnoke near them, so that 1 shall have to utilise gas 
instead. I should like some practical person’s opinion na 
to the consumption of gas required in heating a boiler and 
pipes for such a house as above. Tho position is rather 
sheltered, temperature in winter to be about 66^. Can 
anyone give me a few hints how to make a boiler to be 
he £ te ?* by gas ' tbe 8ize ret l uI|,ed - and what materials. 
—E. M. 

9373. —Lucerne. —We h&veaplot of ground altogether 
C iv, lreea P lanted with Lucerne, which would be 
valuable for the culture of other vegetables, such as 
Peas, Beans, Ac.; also, we have another plot very much 

^ Apple trees, so that our vegetables do but 
little good on it. I have been advised to sow Lucerne on 
the latter plot, and have been told that the Lucerne 
would grow as well, if not better, on the shaded ground 
as on the open plot. 1 should be obliged if any reader 
would give me the benefit of his experience.-J. W. A. 

937 1 .—Failure in Celery.—For two years our Celery 
has been a failure. We use London manure and vege¬ 
table refuse, such as green Potato tops, in abundance, 
and water frequently in dry weather with liquid manure, 
soap-suds, blood from the slaughterhouse, Ac., but still 
we fail to produce Celery of good quality. It grows to a 
good length, but is pithy, and the white, rooty part runs 
all up the stalk; also the sticks are very join tv and 
ungainly in appearance. If any reader of Gardening 
can advise me 1 shall be glad.- J. W. A. 

. e 4 3 , 76 *— Spent Hops for hotbeds.—These are used 
In the North of England to tome extent in forming hot¬ 
beds mixed with stable manure in equal parts, and it is 
said that these beds retain their heat better and longer 
than if the manure were used alone. I have applied 
them for years asa base on whlcn to prick out Celery plants 
from the Beed pans, and have found them answer well, 
but I wish to know if they are useful in forming hotbeds, 
as I can obtain an unlimited quantity every week through¬ 
out the year.—M. H. 

9376. —Pit for Cucumbers and Melons.—I have 
a brick pit, 5 feet wide, 12 feet loug, on a border facing 
south ; the front of the pit is 3 feet deep and the back 
6 feet. The brickwork is only 4} inches at the front, and 
two end walls. I want to grow some early Cucumbers 
and Melons. Could anyone tell me if I Bhould put a 
boarded partition in the middle, and how to manage? 
Any^lnformation will be thanktully received. — Essex 

9377. — Greenhouse plants.— Would any *f your 
readers be good enough to give mo a list of good pot 
plants for greenhouse, temperaturo averaging about 60°, 
that will bloom in succession from the end of September 
until the end of April, and make a good display ; also 
state whether they are raised from Beed or cuttings, 
when the best time to sow or plant, and when they will 
be in full bloom.—S ooth London. 

9378. —Greenhouse building'.—I am putting up a 
lean-to greenhouse 30 feet loug in two divisions, heated 
by hot water flred from one end, and I propose to carry 
the flue right through the house to chimney at other 
end. Is this advisable? What width should the house 
be, and height back and front, best mode of flooring; 
al.-o paths and staging ? I shall be obliged for any infor¬ 


mation.— Amatrur. 


0379.-Palms from Calcutta--A friend haa brought 
me two Palms from Calcutta in 7-inch pots ; they are in 
clay, anil the potB seem well tilled with roota. ilay 1 
repot them Into better soil, Bay loam, leaf-mould, and peat, 
or will they grow well here in the clay 7 I have no accom¬ 
modation for them but aroom window facing north, and 
do they require much moisture? They are the (awn¬ 
leaved variety.—A Lovkb or Palms. 

9380. — Flower seeds for the Gape. — I have 
just received from a friend at the Cape (Jausenville 
Kastern Province), a request that I Bhould Bend him out 
some English flower seedB that would bo likely to succeed 
in that climate. lie adds, “ thermometer 110° In shade 
to-day." Would Sweet Peas and Mignonette do, and 
what other annuals J—A. E. A. 

,,Ml—Plante and sea water.—1 have a garden 
which unfortunately is at times'submerged when the spring 
and autumn high tides back the land water, and so 
saturates the flowers with a mixture of land and sea 
water that they die. Will some correspondent kindly 
say what are the best vegetables, plants, and flowers for 
such a piece of land 7 —Cochtrxmah. 


1 , l ’^ 2 T? oron ‘ llaa not blooming. — Can anyone 
kindly tell me the reason why my Corunillas have failed 

toflower? They made their leaves and flower buds, but i , K „ „ . „ 

both leaves and buds are falling oil; they did just the I o thor English or Scotch 7- 
snme last year. I have them in a greenhouse heated by 
a flue ; I have Borne small plants which are going Just in 
the same way.—T. C. 


.Hyacinths falling to bloom.—What is the 
reason of my Hyacinths In glasses failing to flower 7 The 
bloom, although showing well for flower, instead of 
bursting, shrivelled up and died away. They were kept In 
tho dark for a month and tbe roota were good. They 
have since b -en in a room with fire and gas Ih bus 
I njurious to them 7—M. H. T. ' “ 

9MA.—Glimbors for arches—Names of a few 
hardy, free-growing, and free-blooming creepers for train- 
ing over garden arches would oblige ; also mode ol treat¬ 
ment. Last year 1 tried Tropceolum canarieusc, wmon 
was all but ruined by slugs attacking roots and stems 
and at best made a poor shew. I require something 
hardier.—E. W. C. 

9386.—Annuals on stones.—I should be obliged 
for information a* to the best kind of annual to sow on 
small round stones fixed in the ground, where Virginia 
stock grown freely, but Mignonette will not thrive; also 


how to transplant tiny seedling Auriculas. Will they do 
inaborder? Whatsoil? 1 b it too soon to put lu Gladioli 
rootol—A Cohstamt XtKAPWl. 

9386 —Manure for Carnations.—Will someone 
kindly inform me wlmt is the boat artificial manure for 
Carnations and Plcotees in pota, as I have a great diffi¬ 
culty in obtaining well-rotted stable or cow manure ? Is 
Clay's fertiliser suitable, and if so, how should it be used? 
—J. R. 

0357.—Plant for edging— A border in my garden 
Iiad a narrow edging of grass, which 1 wish to do away 
with. What could I plant to mane a neat, permanent 
edging, a pretty flowering plant preferable. The soil is 
only two inches or three inches deep, situation north-east 
London.—C lapton. 

9388. —How to grrow Melons.—will some reader 
tell mo when to bow Melon seeds to have ripe fruit by 
the middle of August; also tho beat method of training 
them on trellis work, and if Melon* will keep long when 
ripe? A few practical hiuts ua to heat, Ac., will be 
thankfully received.—S pots. 

9389. -Melons not setting.-I fail to get my Melons, 
which are grown in an unhealed frame (except a little 
manure to shirt with) to set their fruit. I can grow them 
up t that point and ripen them afterwards, if perchance 
1 gev - uy to set. Any information will be mankiuu v 
receivt d.—M. T. 

939b. — Anthracite coal. — Some time ago I saw 
anthracite coal recommended for burning in greenhouse 
flres, and I should very much like to try it. Is any special 
stove requirtd, and where can the coal be obtained and 
the price per ton?—W. u. C. 

9391. —Artificial manure for flowers.—Can any 
one give analysis of what might be considered a flrst-cl&ss 
artificial manure for flowers, aud would a large propor- 
portion of the phosphates made into a soluble state be 
adva tageous, and would 10 per cent of ammonia be 
enough ?— ABERDEEN. 

9392. —Culture of Mustard.—I should be obliged 
if some reader of Gardening would give me particulars 
of tne culture of Miutard for seed, the best kind to sow, 
and an average value of the yield per acre, aud if the 
produce of an acre would go near covering the expense 
incurred ?—Sinapis. 

9393. —Seeds of Retinosporas. — I have a quan¬ 
tity of seed I gathered this day (Feb. 14) of Retinospora 
piaifera. Would someone kindly tell me how to plant it 
and treat it, also how long it will take to make plants ?— 
G. M. S. 

9394. —Mushrooms —Would some reader kindly give 
the best method of making Mushroom spawn, and say if 
I could grow Mushrooms in a dark place in a potting 
shed, where there is no heat save from manure.—Y oung 
Gardener. 

9395. — Pelargoniums in pots.—Will someone 
kindly give u few hint* upon tne treatment of Pelur- 
goniuin Vesuvius, Ac., to produce good specimen plants 
in pot* ? I can get them to grow to a large size in the open 
ground, but not In pots.—C lapton. 

9396. —Fancy Pansies.-I should be obliged to any 
Pansy exhibitor who would give the names of thirty-six of 
the best varieties of fancy Pansies, both the newest and 
standard sort* of such excellence as one meets with In 
8cotch shows.—A uld Reekie. 

0397.—Worms in lawns.-Can any reader kindly 
inform me of the best means to destroy worms on lawns 
without injuring the grass? I Bee lime-water is recom¬ 
mended in this weeks Gardening, but uo proportions 
given. —J. A. A. 

6398.—Crops for wet land.— There Is a corner in 
my garden that is very wet from water coming from n 
high lock immediately at the back ; tho soil is good. 
What vegetables or fruit trees would do best in this 
ground ?— T. B. 

9309.—Flowers for London garden.—What is the 
proper time to sow seeds of Golden Feather, to get good 
plants for bordering in summer? 1 should be grateful for 
any hint* as to how to make a London garden look pretty 
with as little expense os possible?—E. E. N. 

9100.—Climber for porch.—Would some reader 
klnuly advise me as to the best climber for a small glass 
porch facing north ? Bloom not so much an object as u 
fast growing evergreen likely to endure for several years 
—A. G. F. 

9401. —Alternantheras and Iiiaines.— can these 
be raised from seedB? If not, what led or brown leaved 
annual is there growing about 0 Inches high suitable for 
bedding out ?—8POTB. 

9402. —Butchers’Broom.—I have an old-established 
bush of Butchers’ Broom. What is the best mode of 
propagating it; if by cuttings, when should they be taken? 
— A. A. H. 


9403.—British Ferns.—Could anyone Interested in 
the culture of British Ferns supply me with the names 
and addresses of the principal growers of this section. 

Ailhfir V.nollnh nr Hisnfnh V TKRI BUS * 


9404.—Carnations not flowering. — W’ill some 
one kindly tell me why all my Carnations bloomed so 
badly last year? The flowers only appeared for a whlie 
at one aide of the bud and then faded away.—G. G. 

9406.—Size of lean-to grreenhouse.-Would some 
competent authority kindly give me advice as to proper 
dimensions, say height front and back and depth of a 
lean-to greenhouse?—E. W.C. 

9406. —Early Rhododendron.—Can anyone say 
what is the name of the Rose-pink Rhododendron to bo 
Been early ill March in Kndsleigh Grounds, near Tavi¬ 
stock, south Devon — La Rosier®. 

9407. -Crimson Rose.—Wanted the name of the 
most profuse summer flowering crimson-scarlet Rose. 
Is It Paul’s Vivid ? The one meant looks as if it had rela¬ 
tionship with the old scarlet China Rose.— La Rosieke. 

9408 —Beetroot for flower beds.—How and when 
°* 10 supply plants for flower 

beds ? What kind ol soil and treatment do they require ? 
—E. E. N. 



March 3, 1883 ] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


13 


0109. —Geum cocdneum.-Will someone inform 
me aa to the cultivation of Geum ooccineum plenum ? 
Does it require strong manure to force it on to bloom 
early in a cool greenhouse ?—Geum. 

9410.—Cyclamens.—I should be obliged for any 
information about growing Cyclamens so as to make fine 
plants. Mine seem healthy, but do not grow large and 
bloom freely.—J. T. 

0411.—Woodlice in Cucumber houses.—Will 
someone inform me how to destroy woodlice in Cucum¬ 
ber houses ?—T. W. 

9412. —Age of Hyacinths.—Can any reader inform 
me how the age or Hyacinths can be determined ?— 
1>QUJ8ITIVB. 

9413. —Sowing seeds.—When should I sow Balsams, 
Coxcombs, Asters, Stocks (ten-week), to be ready for 
exhibition the third week in August?—J. H. 

»4i4. — How to get berries on Aucubas. — 
Will some experienced reader kindly give us an article 
on this subject ?—F. W. 

9415. —Propagating Azaleas.—Can hardy Azaleas 
be propagated by cuttings taken off like Laurel slips, 
and when is the proper time to do this?—L a R siere 

9416. —Amaryllis belladonna —Will someone give 
me the routine treatment required to bloom this bulb in 
pots ? I have been trying in vain for four or five years. 
—S. D. 

9417. —Gas stove.—Whftt is the experience of any 
reader regarding Ritchie's gas stove, as recommended by 
Messrs. Veitch for greenhouse T—M. M. 

9418. —Hollyhocks.—What is the best wny to grow 
Hollyhocks ?-E. M L. 

9419 —Indian Corn.—When is the proper time to 
bow Indian Corn in a flower border?— Zea. 

9420 —Capsicums.—Will someone give a few hints 
on growing Capsicums without heat?- F. G. F. 


POULTRY. 


Brahma ill.— Hubert .— If you would be 
more erplicit in your description of the symp¬ 
toms, we might possibly suggest a remedy. Your 
bird, as far as we caa see, only requires a tonic 
to bring back its appetite. Ask your chemist for 
a little of the mixture known as ^arrish's food, 
of which put a tablespoonful in the water to 
every six fowls. If the tail feathers of your 
birds appear straggling and broken, it is probably 
due to either your laying boxes being too small, 
or the perches in the roosting house are too close 
to the wall, whereby the feathers are constantly 
being bruised and crumpled If the tonic as 
advised above has not the desired effect, then 
there is something more the matter, and we will 
endeavour to advise on hearing further from you. 
Try an entire change of food, with a little extra 
supply of meat. The large pro, i ortion of wet 
weather this winter has been vi ry trying to 
poultry, and they require sometht. g extra to 
keep up their stamina.— Andalusian. 

Eggs. — Y. O .—We consider 150 eggs per 
bird in your yard very good as a yearly average, 
and although many individual liens lay a greater 
number during that period, yet there are sure to 
he some whose numbers come very much under 
that. By working up a laying strain is meant 
only breeding from hens which have proved 
somewhat extraordinary in that respect, and by 
rnatiDg them with a cock of a known good 
laying variety. This will in a few generations 
of birds provide you with a flock of most prolific 
hens, but the plan must he carried out to the 
letter, and all hens which do not come up to the 
standard must be weeded out, so far as breeding 
is concerned. It is best tried with pure bred birds 
and non-sitters, and either the Minorca, Leghorn, 
Hamburg, or Houdan would be best. A young 
cock of the first year is not so good for breeding 
as a two-year-old, and should be mated with 
two-year-old hens if used. Fowls in confined 
runs do not generally breed so well as those 
enjoying full liberty, so that fewer hens must 
he allowed to each male.— Andalusian. 


Gathering on foot.— J". B. a .—No breed 
is so liable to this disease as the Dorking, why 
we cannot say. It is generally caused by perches 
being too narrow, or by gravel or other sharp 
substances being forced into the ball of the 
foot, although it often appears where fowlB are 
kept on grass only. If it is only a small affair, 
paint the spot daily with iodine, or an application 
or two of lunar caustic will generally cause it to 
disappear. Where, however, there is a regular 
tumour, it must be first lanced and the matter 
squeezed out, and then fomented with warm 
water as often as possible for a few days. 
Caustic should afterwards be applied. During 
treatment the bird must be confined and not 
allowed to roost, but be provided with clean 
straw. They often appear a second time, if so, 
you may as well kill the bird, as a cure pannot 
be effected.— Andalusian, , a 


Golds. — R. Pieter —Tincture of aconite is 
much recommended for the treatment of colds 
in fowls, and although it is a poison, yet in small 
quantities it does no harm, but proves very 
beneficial. Four drops in a pint of water would 
not be too much, and we doubt very much if that 
caused the death of your hen. It might have 
hastened it, supposing her to be in a very bad 
state indeed, but when affected with simple 
cold tincture of aconite is largely used for 
poultry. Of course, it does not cure without 
other steps be taken, such as confining the bird 
in a warm dry place, free from draughts, and 
feeding on the most nutritious food. In all 
poultry diseases the great thing is to keep up 
the strength of the patient, therefore the best of 
food must be given and even forced on the bird. 
A good little work on poultry is published by 
Cassell, entitled, “The Practical Poultry Keeper,” 
price 5s. Ask your bookseller to procure it for 
you.— Andalusian. 

Spanish. — IF. H. —Your hen is suffering 
from what is commonly called “ down behind,” 
or great weakness of the abdomen, which the 
poor bird is compelled to drag along the ground. 
It is generally brought about by excessive eating. 
The only remedy we know of is to let the bird 
sit for a few weeks, feeding meanwhile very 
moderately, but as yours is a non-sitting variety 
this will be of no use. You might try starving 
her into proper condition, but we are inclined to 
think any hen in this condition should be killed. 
Of course you must pay more attention to the 
regularity and quantity of your feeding or you 
will soon have others go in the same way. 
Brahmas are very liable to this disease, but we 
never before heard of a Spanish hen being 
affected.— Andalusian. 

Houdana- J. O. O. —These birds often 
attain the weight of 7 lbs. in the hen and 9 lbs. 
in the cock bird. They are, as yon say, excellent 
table fowl, and of course the shorter on the leg 
and squarer in build you can breed them the 
better. We will not say they are better than 
Dorkings for killing, but they run this well- 
known table fowl very close, and if fanciers will 
only continue to pay attention to size, even 
sacrificing colour, combs, and other minor de¬ 
tails, we expect shortly to see them surpassed by 
none. Brahmas are certainly larger birds, and a 
full-grown cock will often turn the scale at 
14 lbs. But Ihe flesh, unless killed young, is not 
first-elassin comparison with many other breeds. 
The cross produced by matching a Houdan cock 
with dark Brahma hens generally turns out well, 
but they will not. be non-sitters, and in plumage 
will oe nearly all black, with more or less top- 
knot. Five Brahma hens will be sufficient for 
one Houdan cock, and the sooner you see about 
sitting a few hens on eggs the better— Anda¬ 
lusian. 

Cochina.— Lucy. —We presume you refer lo 
buff Cochins. If so, there should be no black 
feathers either in the hackle (neck) feathers or 
in the tail. The plumage of the whole bird 
should be a rich yellow buff, with a darker Bhade 
of the same colour in the hackle, tail and wing- 
coverts. If yours are as you describe, it is very 
evident'yoil have not got the genuine article, but 
some crossed birds.— Andalusian. 

Nest eggs. — J. J. — We always recom¬ 
mend china nest eggs in preference to painted 
wooden ones, as lasting much longer and being 
cleaner. Those made of lumps of chalk are 
worse than either, aa they never look clean, and 
in time wear away. Some fanciers blow the con¬ 
tents out of an ordinary egg and fill it in with 
plaster of Paris, which, when set firm, makes a 
very good nest egg.— Andalusian. 

Sultans. —As I have kept Sultan fowls for 
some time, I should like to correct “Andalu¬ 
sian’s” error concerning their legs; they are 
neither yellow nor blue, but white; at least, 
that is what they should be, and I find they 
breed very true. They are good layers of large 
eggs; small but good table fowls, carrying much 
breast meat, and the flesh is beautifully white. 
I have tried several breeds of fowls, and Sultans 
are my favourites, as I consider them most useful 
little birds, besides being so very handsome.— 
Sultan. 

Redoaps. —“ Andalusian ” in an article on 
the above birds says they are a mongrel offshoot 
of the Spangled Hamburg. Allow me to say 
that the breed is now entirely worn out, and 
that a proper Redcap cannot be obtained. They 
I were bred almost exclusively in Yorkshire when 


they were in their prime. A friend of mine 
showed a stag whose comb was 16 inches round 
and entirely blinded it. I agree with “ Andalu¬ 
sian that they are mongrels now, but they are 
not a mongrel offshoot of the Spangled Hamburg. 
—C. D. 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 

Gorgonzola cheese. — There are two 
Italian cheeses of high repute, Strachino di 
Milano and Strachino di Gorgonzola. The 
first is something of the quality of cream 
cheese, the second resembles a very superior, 
refined Stilton. It would seem as if our climate 
did not agree with their constitutions, for those 
who have only tasted the cheeses imported to 
England have no idea of their excellence. I 
believe they are made of goats’ milk. 1 am 
afraid “ A Constant Reader ” would find any 
attempt to manufacture Strachino di Gorgonzola 
a very forlorn hope indeed.—M. S. M. 

Hot plokle for hams. —What can pos¬ 
sibly he the value of a pickle that will 
not preserve the hams through hot weather? It 
must be a great deal more trouble than it is 
worth. The followingrecipe is simple, easy, and 
most efficacious, and as I have pickled about six¬ 
teen hams with it every year for quite thirty 
years, and never had one fail, I think I may 
venture to recommend it, provided the one who 
pickles will fulfil to the letter the instructions of 
the recipe. The hams will be perfectly delicious 
for two years and a little more. Longer than that 
I have not found it necessary to keep them. 
To each ham of about 18 pounds allow 1 pound 
bay salt, 2 pounds common salt, 1 pound coarse 
brown sugar, 1 quart of ale, and 1 pint of vine¬ 
gar. Have the bay salt pounded, and'mix all 
the ingredients well together. Tut them into a 
saucepan, and when quite boiling and well 
stirred pour them boiling over the hams. The 
hams must he previously rubbed with 3 ounces 
of saltpetre each, and left for twenty-four hours. 
Leave in the pickle for a month, turning every 
day for a week, and twice a week afterwards. 

To make vinegar with a vinegar 

plant.—Half a pound of foot sugar, three 
quarters of a pound of good treacle, five pints of 
cold water. Boil all together for a quarter of an 
hour; skim it, and when cold pour it on the 
plant, which should be placed in a white glazed 
pan. Cover it with brown paper pricked full of 
holes, and keep the pan in a dry' kitchen cup¬ 
board for ten weeks. It is then fit to bottle. 
It is better for keeping.— Wai.mer. 

Making vinegar. —To eight gallons of clean 
rain water add three quarts of molasses; turn 
the mixture into a clean tight cask, shake it well 
two or three times, and add three spoonfuls of 
good yeast, or two yeast cakes; place the cask In a 
warm place, and in ten or fifteen days add a 
sheet of common wrapping paper, smeared with 
molasses and torn into narrow strips, and yon 
will have good vinegar. The paper is necessary 
to form the " mother," or life of the vinegar— 
Celeb et Audax. 


Birds in large cage—I have a large cage 
2 feet 6 inches high, 2 feet 6 inches long, and 1 
foot 6 inches wide ; how many birds may I keep 
in this, what will be the best kinds, and must 
they be in pairs ? Where can I buy a cheap book 
on the management of birds ?—Siskin. 

Books on British birds— Con anyone kindly re¬ 
commend me one or two good books on British birds ?— 
K Hathurst. 

Breeding rabbits.—Will any readers have the 
kindness to give me Information aa to the most profitable 
method of breeding and rearing rabbits for the table ? I 
want to know the beat breed for the purpose, their food, 
and the best form of hutches. — J. B,, Manchester. 


Complete Index to "The Garden.”— 

The general index, embracing the whole of the 
volume* from the commencement to the end of the 
twentieth , is now ready. It has been compiled, 
printed , and bound with much care , and will be 
very useful in malting more accessible to all who 
possess the volumes the immense mass of practical 
gardening matter, plates , and woodcuts embodied 
in its pages. Those who intimated their willing¬ 
ness to subscribe for it will be supplied at the sub¬ 
scribers price of 10s. 6 A. per copy. As its pro¬ 
duction has been more expensive than was 
anticipated, the price has to be fixed at 1 2s. 6/1. 
per copy . There will he no free copies, and no 
reduction to the trade in the published price . 







GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


I March 3, 1883 



ARIGOLD, French prize striped, ditto African orange or 
lemon, International prize, grand for competition; 
MATTHIOLA BI CORN 18 (Evening Scented Stock) ; 
MIMT7LU8 CUPREU8 (scarlet), handsome for edging. Ac. ; 
MIMULUS, beautifully spotted; MUSK: CKNOTHERA 
(Evening Primrose), white, yellow, Ac.; PANSIES. Inter¬ 
national largo stained varieties, English show, Scotch fancy, 
French large flowering, blotched, and finest striped; PE- 


aoume innged flowers, most desirable; PETUNIA, finest 
Bingle; PENTSTEMON8 and PHLOXES from named 
varieties; PHLOX DRUMMONDI. finest extant, twenty- 
four colours; PICOTEES, new French perpetual, in¬ 
cluding beautiful yellow, and English from stage flowers; 
POLYANTHUS, gold laced: PORTULACA, splendid 
double; PRIMULA SINENSTS FIMBRIATA. very Bclect. 
finest colours ; PYRETHRUM, French hybrids, with large 
double flowers, and Golden Feather; SOLANUMS (Winter 
Cherry); 8TOCK8, German large flowering, now Giant 
8carlet, new Giant White, German Ten-wee’s, Wallflower- 
leaved. Emperor, specially adapted for exhibition ; BROMP- 
TON STOCKS; TKOPIFOLUM canariense and Lobbi- 
anum in twelve varieties, separate or mixed; SWEET 
WILLIAMS, finest double and single; VERBENAS, large 
Prize, pure white-eyed and Italian etripod; VIOLA Blue 
Bell, Mauve Queen. Golden Queen, Purple Qupcd, White 
Queen; SWEET VIOLET The Czar; WALLFLOWERS, 
Blood-red, striped, Blue King, Golden Tom Thumb, German 
double; ZINNIAS, finest double, carmine, violet, yellow, 
rose, scarlet, and white, separate or mixed; ZINNIA 
HAAGEANA fl.-pl., splendid novelty, brilliant double 
orange-yellow flowers. Is. worth free by post. 

Any twelve packet* of above 2s. Od., jx>st free. 

See Catalogue for larger packets and descriptions of these 
and other choice seeds and plants. 

HARKNESS & SONS, 

Nurserymen and Seedsmen. Bedalf„ Yorkshire. 

ANEMONE SYLVESTRIS (the Snowdrop 

XJ. Anemone).—Seed of this remarkably beautiful spring- 
flowering. pure white Anemone haa never yet been offered in 
any quantity. Its flowers, closely resembling those of the 
white Japan Anemone (Honorine Jobert), but produced in 
early spring, are so beautiful in their whiteness, and so 
valuable, that the present opportunity may profitably be 
embraced to secure a stock of a plant that must prove of 
great value foryielding white flowers in the earliest month 
in the year. We believe it will be found capable of boing 
forced, and altogether we can scarcely yet estimate the full 
importance of this charming subject. Is. per packet free by 
post of HOOPER & CO.. Covent Garden, London. 


m king’s m 

CHOICE SEED POTATOES 

AT 

Grower’s Prices- 


MYATT’S A8HLEAF .. .. 2 0 7 0 * 

BEAUTY OF HEBRON .. 2 0 7 0 M 

WOODSTOCK KIDNEY .. 3 6 12 0 ® £>5 

WHITE ELKPHANT .. 3 0 10 B £&£ 

QUEEN OF THE VALLEY .. 3 0 11 8 

SCHOOLMASTER .. ..2 0 7 0 5® 

MAGNUM BONUM .. .1 0 6 0 £ (7J 

SCOTCH CHAMPION .. ..19 6 0 

List of the fifty best sorts post free. 


All Potatoes of 10s. value carriage free 
to any railway station. 


All the best Vegetables and Flowers 

IN CULTIVATION. 

Full particulars on application. 

JOHN K. KING, 

ROYAL SEEDSMAN, 

Coggeshall, Essex. 

A BEEP LIST ~ 

ILLUSTRATED 

and as full as can be desired of useful and reliable inform* 
tion on Garden and Flower SeedB. yet without any unneces¬ 
sary costliness, post free on application Such a catalogue aa 
this is claimed to be must of necessity conduce to ECO¬ 
NOMY, both as regards purchaser and vendor. 

In addition to the well known and trusty favourites in 
Seeds, the 

best novelties 

are included, but unproved and excessively expensive kinds 
are omitted. 

Every endeavour is made to supply seeds of 
The FINEST QUALITY ard of the BEST VARIETIES at a 
MODERATE PRU.E 

to attain which desirable object neither trouble nor expense 
are spared in the procuring and proving of the Seeds. 

THE GUINEA COLLECTION 

(Carriage free), for the Amateur’s Garden has been much ap 
proved, and contains a most valuable and useful assortment 
of Vegetable Seeds. 

All enquiries are gladly and promptly attouded to. 

richard^smTth & co., 

Seed Merchants & Nurserymen, Worcester 

. W A 2R, ~m 7 @ 

fJATALOGUK OF CHOICE HARDY PEREN- 

VJ NIAL8, Florists' Flower and othei Seeds may be bad 
post free upou application to THOMAS 8. W AKE, Hale 


COOLING & SON’S 

MULTUM - IN - PARVO BOX, 

Being a Combined Collection of 

VEGETABLE SEEDS, 

SEED POTATOES, 

AND 

CHOICEST FLOWER SEEDS. 

PRICE ONE GUINEA. 

Cate and Caniage Free to any Railway Station. 
CONTENTS: 

1 peck SEED POTATOES, Improved Ashleaf 
1 peck SEED POTATOE8, for main crop 


MR. R. W. BEAOHEY, 

Fluder, Kingjskerswall, Devonshire, 

Offers Roses. Panries. Violas, Sweet Violet*, green¬ 
house plants, Ferns, Ac., all good and cheap for cash. 
Bend for Catalogue with instructions for cultivation, 1883, 
3d., post free. 

SEEDS ! SEEDS ! ! SEEDS ! 11—Pansy, finest show and 
fancy, all from named varieties, Is. and 2s. 6d.; Pansy, 


post free upou application to r 
Farm Nurseries. Tottenham, Loi 


rieties), Campanula, Calycanthemo, Pentstemon, Anemone, 
all fid. and Is. per {racket, free. 

R. W. BEACHEY, as above. 

DICKSON & ROBINSON I 

IS, OLD MILLGATE, 

MANCHESTER. 

Genuine Seeds free by post. 

Perpkt.—8. d. 

CAULIFLOWER, Dickson’s Eclipse, superb .. 10 
CELERY, D. tfc R.’s Manchester Champion Reel 1 0 
,, Major Clarke's splendid red.. .. 0 6 

CUCUMBER, D. & R.’s Improved Telegraph I 0 
LETTUCE, D. & R.’s Champion "White Cos .. 0 6 
J „ Dickson's All the Year Round Cabbage 0 6 
ONION, Cantello’s Prize, extra fine ..06 

TOM ATO, Stamfordian, an excellent rod kind 0 6 

Illustrated Seed Catalogue free on receipt of Sd. in stamps 
to cover postage. Gratis to customers. 

SUSP GrLE 

HOOPER’S SUPERB HYBRIDS 

Have taken prizo3 and certificates, and contain numberless 
variations of every colour. Seed*, in mixture of all colours, 
l>d., 2s. (kl., and 5 b. per packet. 


HOOPER & OO. 


G ent Garden London. 

oogle 


12 zonal Geraniums, finest named kinds.13 

12 double Geraniunn, excellent varieties.13 

12 Ruperb bronze Geraniums, very choice.16 

12 best Coleus, moat striking colours .13 

12 double Petunias, flue aorta (unnamed).10 

6 Mosses for greenhouse, pretty and useful .. .. 0 9 

6 variegated Fuchsias, rare and beautiful .. ..10 

12 finest show Fuchsias, single and double .. ..10 

2 Fuchsia procumbens for baskets, choice .. .. 0 3 

12 Geranium Wonderful, double scarlet bedder .. .. 0 9 

3 Geraniums, Distinction, Happy Thought, and West 

Brighton Gem, all capital sorts.0 4 

AU post or carriage free, carefully packed, for cash. 
SPECIAL OFFER.— 1 The above collection of Cuttings and 
six cholco greenhouse Ferns (including Adiantum cunontum) 
carefully packed in hamper and free per passenger train to 
any railway station in Great Britain for 11s. fid 

RYDER & SON, Sale, Manchester. 

~~ Jt'EJtLNS A SPE0JA LIT I. 

Special List (August, 1882) now ready. 

THE LARGEST STOCK in the greatest num- 

ber of varieties in the trad *, suitable for stove and green¬ 
house cultivation, alio for outdoor ferneries and other 
purposes. Intending purchasers should send for above list 
before buying elsewhere. Post free. 

W. & d. BIRKENHEAD, 

KEEN NURSERY, SALE, MANCHESTER 


6 pints Peas 
2 pints Broad Beans 
H pints French Beans 
1 pkt. Beet 
1 pkt Borecole 

1 pkt Brussels Sprouts 

2 pkts. Broccoli 
2 pkla. Cabbage 

1 pkt. Savoy 

2 oz. Carrot 

1 pkt. Cauliflower 

1 pkt. Celery 

2 oz. Cress 

1 pkt. Endive 

1 pkt. Leek 

2 pkta. Lettuce 
4 oz. Mustard 
2 oz. Onion 


1 pkt. Parsley 

1 oz. Parsnip 
3 oz. Radish 

2 oz. Spinach 
2 oz. Turnip 

1 pkt. Vegetable Marrow 
1 pkt. French Aster, finest 
imported 

1 pkt. German Stocks 
1 pkt. Phlox Drummond! 

1 pkt. Blue Lobelia 
1 pkt. Petunia, choice 
1 pkt. Verbena 
12 large packets hardy and 
showy Annuals, including 
Mignonette, Sweet Peas, 
Scarlet Linum, Larkspur, 
Marigold, ko. 


This Collection contains everything necessary to stock 
a moderatc-tized garden for the whole year, aud we 
believe it to be the cheapest and most comprehensive 
ever offered. Eveiy article included is of the choicest 
quality. 

Our SEED CATALOGUE for 1883 

Will be forwarded gratis and post free. 

GEO, COOLING & SON, 

Seed Merchants and Nurserymen, 

BATH. 


Troproolum epeciosum. 

"ROOTS of this beautiful hardv climber at 
J-u 3s. 6d. per dozen, post free.—R L. CROUCHER, Florist. 
View Park Gardens, Wnrrender Park Crescent, Edinburgh 

(4769 

Choice cuttincs. 

CHEAP SPRING OFFER. 

Thia offer will not be repeated. 

This is the best time for striking cuttings. Amateurs may 
noic obtain a nice stock of greenhouse plants at merely nominal 
prices. All excellent varieties. 


m WILLIAMS’ m 

Specialities in Flower Seeds 

E0E 1883 POST FREE 

Per packet—a. d. 

Williams’ Capsicum Little Gem .. .. 16 

Williams’ Prize Cockscomb.2 6 

Single Dahlia, choic« 

mixed .16 

If the seed is sown in heat in Fe¬ 
bruary, the plants will produce 
blooms in the autumn. 

Petunia, choice mixed. . 1 6 

Picotee, choice mixed .. 16 
Pint, extra choice .. 1 6 
Polyanthus, prize 

strain .10 

Primula sinensis flmbriata, collections 
of six varieties, containing alba mngnifica, Chis¬ 
wick lied, coccinea, purple, red, and white. 

Is. Cd. and 2 6 
These have been specially prepared to meet the require¬ 
ments of amateurs and small growers. 

Illustrated Seed Catalogue post free oh application. 

B. S. WILLIAMS, 

SEED MERCHANT AND NURSERYMAN, 
VICTORIA AND PARADISE NURSERIES 
_ Upper Holloway, London, N. _ 

The Largest hose Gardens in England. 

CRANSTON’S NURSERIES 

(Established 1785). 

ROSES O N OWN ROOTS 

A large quantity of very fine plants of Hybrid 
Perpetuala, Bourbons, Hybrid Chinas, ice. List 
of varieties, with prices, on application. 

CRANSTON’S NURSERY AND SEED CO. 

(LIMITED), 

KING’8 ACHE, HEREFORD. 

NET. 131. SMITH 

OFFERS the following strong plants : 6 selected 
VJ Geraniums, including Henry Jacoby, la. 6d. ; 12, mixed. 
Is. fid. fi selected Fuchsias (autumn-struck), Is. 6d , named; 
12, 2s. Cd.; 12 mixed plants, 1 b. 6d., all free. Single Dahlia 
seedlings with four and six leaves, from the best strain in 
cultivation, 6 plants. Is., 12 for 1». 9d., free; cuttings of Gera¬ 
niums, named, selected. Is. doz ; without names, 9d. doz. 
Fuchsias 2d. doz.; 24 mixed cuttings, Is. 2d., free. Genuine 
and choice seeds, 24 packets, post free, Is. 2d., comprising 
Lobelia, Return*, double titocks and Asters, Fhlox, Linum 

W H. SMITH, St. Faith’s. Norwich. 


Ulylt 



























































GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. y. 


MARCH 10, 1883. 


No. 209. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Continued front page 2.) 

Preparatory Work. 

This will consist first of draining, which should 
be thoroughly done in order to lay the place 
dry and make it comfortable to work and walk 
on at all seasons. The details of this work can 
only be arranged on the spot, as heavy cold 
clays may require drains at frequent intervals, 
and where tree3 are going to be planted the 
drains should be not less than 3.} feet deep. 
Then after the draining is accomplished the 
roads and walks should be set out, and all the 
ground intended for shrubs or turf trenched not 
less than 20 inches deep, and before this work is 
done, and at least during the progress of the 
work, any alteration of surface that may be 
desirable to improve the outlook of the place 
should be carried out. A geometrical or formal 
garden will require flat surfaces, whilst the 
picturesque or the rustic, or what we may term 
the English garden, in contradistinction to the 
Italian or Dutch style, should have the surface 
undulated, sometimes rising into boldness of ex¬ 
pression, at others sinking gradually away. 

Wherever the ground rises into prominence 
the summits should be crowned with trees and 
shrubs, or perhaps a tree or two may be planted 
in the background with shrubs in front, those 
near the margin being of a drooping character 
of growth. In arranging an English garden 
special sites should be created for hardy plants 
and other features which it may desirable to 
introduce. Alpines and Ferns are specially 
interesting subjects, and in laying out the place 
an eye could be had to a suitable site for them, 
although their day may be for a time deferred. 
There must, of course, be Roses, but I do not 
care about a formal garden for them. They 
may be planted anywhere and everywhere, and 
they will be referred to again hereafter, so 
I shall not dwell upon this part of my subject 
now. 

What are called American shrubs, such as Rho¬ 
dodendrons and Azaleas,are so beautiful in spring 
that an effort should be made, if possible, to pro¬ 
vide a place for some of them. In the majority 
of gardens some little extra preps ration is re¬ 
quired by the addition of manure, leaf-mould, 
sand, See., to the soil, and all such work can be 
done better before the place is laid out, or at 
least before the finishing touches are given, than 
after. The site of the different features should be 
marked on a plan of the ground, but no one can 
give a plan that will be adapted to any given 
site without seeing the place and its surround¬ 
ings. Useful ideas may sometimes be gleaned 
from plans in books, but except in the case of 
geometrical figures and as illustrations of par¬ 
ticular ideas, they are practically useless, and the 
man who undertakes to furnish a plan for a gar¬ 
den without having seen the site generally 
misses his mark. The advantages of thinking 
out the whole plan so as to grasp all the probable 
features as a whole are very great, especially in 
the economical arrangement of the work, and the 
beds for the different subjects should be pre¬ 
pared early to give time for settling. 

Fences. 

Brick walls are commonly employed as boun¬ 
dary fences to gardens, because of the sense of 
security which they impart, but as regards ap¬ 
pearance they are always unsatisfactory until 
clothed and hidden by greenery of some kind. 
In some places long, straight boundary walls are 
exceedingly objectionable, and a long, straight, 
closely cut hedge is almost as bad, unless its utility 
as a fence carries conviction to the mind of its ne¬ 
cessity ; and so mere usefulness carries the day. 
Bat there are many ways of breaking up 
the unsightliness of ugly dead walls. The 
Irish Ivy will soon hide a high wall, and 
a collection of various coloured Ivies will 
be an interesting feature always. Straight lines 
of wall or hedge can be broken up by a group of 
shrubs here and there placed judiciously for that 
purpose. Hollies make splendid fences where 
the soil suits them, but they will not grow with 
equal luxuriance everywhere; still, with liberal 
treatment there are but few places where the 

Digits 6, Google 


Holly will not in a few years form an excellent 
fence, and once formed it will be a fixture. 
"Where a fence and nothing but a fence is wanted, 
for general utility very few plants will beat the 
White Thorn. The site should be well prepared 
by trenching, and the plants put in 6 inches 
apart in a single row. The plants should be 
about the same strength, so that all may come 
away together, and then with care and the right 
shape insisted on, a splendid fence will be the 
result. A very great deal depends upon the 
shape in the case of a Thorn hedge. If the 
sides are cut straight up nothing can prevent 
the bottom branches dying off, and the hedge 
as a fence is soon spoiled, and has to be cut 
down ; but if from the first the hedge is cut into 
a pyramidal or inverted form every branch gets 
its fair share of light, air, and rain, and con- 
sequently all flourish alike. The Yew Tree, the 
ArborviUe, the Spruce Fir, Box, Privet, Asiatic 
Barberry, and the common Laurel are all useful 
as hedge plants ^wliere evergreen hedges are 
required. And in the south of England, where 
the climate is mild, the Laurustinus and the 
Fuchsia may be employed for ornamental fences 
and for screens; the Clematis, the Rose, and 
Honeysuckle may blend together charmingly 
on a rustic fence or be trained over a wire trellis. 

For suburban gardens, ornamental iron fences 
are frequently employed, and where the garden 
or grounds are bounded by a public road, unless 
privacy requires it, there is no occasion to hide 
every part of it, as its evident necessity and 
purpose satisfies the mind. 

Roads and Walks. 

Where the grounds are extensive, the approach 
to the house often offers facilities for the display 
of the designer’s skill and taste; but anything 
that is glaringly deceptive, though it may amuse 
for a time, will not satisfy. For instance, it is 
possible to so arrange groups of shrubs and 
trees as to lead the approach road from point to 
point, with the view of making a small place 
appear a large one, entirely ignoring the utility 
of the road as a means of reaching the house. 
But this principle, though excusable when ap¬ 
plied to walks in pleasure grounds, should be 
very' cautiously employed in works of mere use¬ 
fulness. Garden paths may r wind and meander 
about to take in objects of interest; but an 
approach road is first of all a work of utility, 
its necessity is self-evident, and though it may 
turn aside to take in a fine view or a charming 
prospect, yet the useful should not be sacrificed 
to it. 

Roads should be well drained and made of 
durable materials, and not too wide or too con¬ 
spicuous. Uusually there are materials for road¬ 
making on or near every estate or district. The 
surface should be laid at such an angle that the 
water can drain freely off it, as nothing wears 
out a road so fast as pools and puddles of water 
standing about its surface. A long stretch of 
brown road, if in full view of the windows, is 
objectionable from its wearisome appearance, 
but a group of low trees just skirting the edge 
will break up the monotonous aspect, and it can 
be repeated if necessary. In some cases the road 
may^be sunk beneath the ordinary ground level. 
I have adopted this plan sometimes to take a 
road through a fine bit of lawn without 
spoiling the view. Garden walks should be 
made well in the first instance. There is 
no work in which thoroughness will yield 
so good a return. When the garden walks 
are scamped, the trouble with weeds will 
be incessant, and the annoyance from damp 
paths in winter great. There should be a drain 
along the lowest point, and the foundation of 
the path should be composed of broken bricks, 
stones, clinkers, or something equally porous, 
and this material should be at least a foot thick 
on paths much used; and on this foundation 
should be laid from 3 inches to 4 inches of good 
binding gravel. Such a path will last without 
much labour for a century' if need be; but unless 
the walk is laid perfectly dry it will never be 
satisfactory, and well-made roads and walks 
about a place are a luxury which everybody 
appreciates in bad weather. 

Very conspicuous garden paths may have their 


bareness of aspect toned down and made in¬ 
teresting by a Weeping Ash, which can be sup¬ 
plemented in the foreground by a group of low 
shrubs, such as Barberrys or Rhododendrons, and 
in the distance a conifer of some free growing 
kind, such as the Cedar of Lebanon or Picea 
Nordmanniana, might be introduced. These are 
merely suggestions based on what I have found 
useful in practice. Unnecessary walks or roads 
should never be tolerated, as a garden or grounds 
interlaced with brown stripes of gravel cannot 
please. 

Asphalte, when properly laid down, makes 
firm, dry paths, but a gravel path seems to ac¬ 
cord more with our idea of what a garden path 
should be; and in the country, where the 
materials for walk-making are always at hand, 
very few asphalte walks are made. Still, asphalte 
forms a very useful and durable path. 

Planting Trees and Shrubs. 

There is scarcely anything in gardening that 
calls for the exercise of taste, judgment, and 
knowledge in a greater degree than does the 
planting of trees. If well-placed, trees are a 
constantly increasing source of interest. Those 
who have not made trees a study have no idea 
of the beauty and grandeur of the scenes which 
may be created by them. It is true in a villa 
garden we cannot have the woods upon woods 
the poet speaks of, but exceedingly pretty pic¬ 
tures may be made in a limited space if the 
right materials are selected and judiciously 
placed. The collection of trees and shrubs at 
the planter's disposal are very ex tensive, without 
touching those whose hardiness is doubtful. 
Our own native trees are a host in themselves, 
and besides this, every country possessing a 
temperate climate has* been ransacked by col¬ 
lectors for the express purpose of adding to our 
stock. To form screens, or to blind unsightly 
objects, the Red-twigged Lime, the Wycli Elm, 
and the Ash-leaved Maple form rapidly and sub¬ 
mit readily to pruning. The Lombardy Poplar 
is also a rapid growing tree, and may be planted 
where the space is too limited for a tree of 
spreading habit. Evergreen trees for a like pur¬ 
pose may be found among Conifers, such as the 
Austrian Pine, the Lawson Cypress, and Thuja 
Lobbiana. 

Among evergreen shrubs of lower growth but 
dense habit are the common Yew, the evergreen 
Oak, the common Laurel, and the green-leaved 
Holly. The screens or blinds can be made to 
serve as backgrounds for pleasant pictures of 
tree and shrub growth. Here, for instance, is 
a description of a very pretty garden scene, the 
first idea of which sprang up in a desire to hide 
an unsightly building. A group of Limes was 
planted first because of their rapid growth, and 
as they grew up, the further idea of using them 
as a background occurred. A purple Beech 
was planted opposite the centre of the group of 
Limes, but some 15 yards in advance. Right of 
the Beech was a Cedar of Lebanon, and a Cedrus 
atlantica was planted on the left hand ; a like 
distance in front of the Beech was a group of 
five variegated Hollies, back a little on the flank 
of the Hollies was a Lawson Cypress on one side 
and Cupressus macrocarpa on the other. The 
Hollies formed a denser group, but the other 
trees stood thinly for the light to play in 
amongst them, and the grass grew up round 
their stems. Overcrowding I hold to be almost 
a crime. Let everything have a chance to show 
what it is capable of doing. The collections of 
shrubs and trees are now so extensive, anyone 
that will take the trouble to get up a little 
knowledge respecting them may form pretty 
pictures suitable for small as well as large 
places. Wherever there is space, the Plane and 
the Weeping silver-barked Birch are well 
adapted for central positions, around which may 
be grouped trees and shrubs remarkable for 
their beauty of leafage or striking habit of 
growth. The Weeping Lime and the Weeping 
Willow, with other trees of standard growth, 
are specially desirable for making effective 
pictures in certain positions. 

Few gardens are so well planted as they 
might and ought to be, though how or why this 
is I need not stop to enquire; but during the 




16 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 10, 1883. 


rush after scarlet Geraniums and other ephe¬ 
meral things of no particular value, the perma¬ 
nent things, “ the joys for ever/’ have been 
neglected, and ever, in large places, where the 
shrubberies and grounds are extensive, too much 
space is occupied by the Laurel, the Larch, and 
common things generally, which are well enough 
in their place as nurses or as foils to other con¬ 
trasting trees of graceful habit, such as the 
Birch for instance, but in no case should so 
much space be given up to them when so many 
better things are waiting to find a home in our 
plantations and pleasure grounds. I should like 
to see more character imparted to the shrub¬ 
beries to make them less monotonous, for there 
ought not to be that perpetual sameness there so 
frequently is. A variegated Holly always imparts 
character as it gathers size, and some of the 
green Hollies are not much behind for effective¬ 
ness, notably Hodginsi, which is a grand plant . 
Fruit bearing trees, such as bright coloured 
Apples, might be usefully planted as background 
plants. Then standard trees might be made 
more use of. The Hawthorns and Laburnums, 
of course everybody plants, but the Rose 
Acacias, the flowering Almonds, Acacia inermis, 
Rhododendrons, and Golden Yews might be used 
to break up and give tone to flat surfaces. Very 
few planters allow space enough for the trees 
and shrubs to develop into handsome specimens. 

Usually as many things are crammed into bed 
and border as will produce some effect, and no 
thought about thinning till the whole are 
seriously injured. Seeking after immediate 
effect is right enough in principle; it is what 
all thoughtful planters do. But there is a right 
and a wrong way about doing this. The planter 
should first arrange in his mind and jot. down 
on a rough plan his main features, allowing 
sufficient space for full development. For in¬ 
stance, a plant of Hodgins's Holly will in a few 
years be 10 or 16 feet in diameter, even if 
directed upwards by occasionally shortening 
back a robust side shoot, and it will be a folly 
to plant anything nearer to it of a permanent 
character than 8 or 9 feet; and the same rule 
will apply to most of the best class of shrubs, 
The spiral growing Conifers, the Cypress, the 
Juniper, Retinospora, and Arborvitre must have 
plenty of space; indeed, these latter are the 
most effective when used sparingly to break up 
lines and flat surfaces, although occasionally 
such things may be gathered into a group with 
considerable effect. But if I recommend the 
main or permanent things to be planted in the 
positions adapted for them to develop into 
beauty, f do not advocate barrenness of aspect, 
and this can be avoided by planting cheap, com¬ 
mon things as nurses. The Laurel, the Larch, 
and other things are adapted to fill up back¬ 
grounds and shelter the young, choicer things, 
which are destined to give character to the 
place at the same time; and along the front 
herbaceous plants and annuals may be used to 
fill up vacant spots till the shrubs and trees re¬ 
quire the space. Of course the nurses must be 
watched, and kept well in hand. This work 
unfortunately is too often neglected, and much 
injury results therefrom. 

Select Lists of Trees and Shrubs. 

I purpose here giving a few select lists of trees 
andshrubs adaptedfordifferentpurposes,adding 
as we proceed a running commentary to notify 
anything striking in growth or character about 
any that may seem to require it. I hope this 
plan will be found useful to the planter not well 
up in this special knowledge. 

Trees for blinds and backgrounds .—Populus 
argeDtea (Silver Poplar), P. candicans (Canadian 
Poplar), P. fastigiata (Lombardy Poplar), Ulmus 
glabra vegeta (Huntingdon Elm), Ulmus mon- 
tana (Wych Elm), Tilia rubra (red-twigged 
Lime). The above are all rapid growing trees 
and will bear pruning. The Lombardy Poplar 
is an erect-growing tree of shrubby character. 
The Silver Poplar is a very effective tree, and 
the Canadian Poplar deserves a place in the 
house grounds. Then there are numbers of ever¬ 
green trees suitable for shelters and forming 
backgrounds and blinds. The Scotch Fir, the 
Norway Spruce Fir, the Silver Fir, the Austrian 
Pine, and the Larch are well suited for certain 
positions; they are all hardy, and not particular 
as to soil if the situation is dry. Evergreens of 
lesser growth will be found in the Evergreen 
Oak, the green Holly, the common Yew, Law¬ 
son's Cypress, the American and Siberian Arbor- 

Digitized C <gTe 


vitaes, and the Juniperus communis and others. 
The Japanese Privets are useful screen plants, 
being quick in furnishing, and are not unorna¬ 
mental, especially when in flower. Then there 
are the Laurels where a dense bed of evergreens 
are required. 

Deciduous trees for specimen or choice groups. 
—The scarlet Maple is seldom met with, but it 
is a beautiful tree in autumn. The Hawk’s-foot 
Maple has peculiar shaped foliage, from which 
it derives its name; the tree nurseries are rich 
in Maples, and more might be done with them. 
The scarlet Horse Chestnut is of less dimensions 
than the common form, and is a desirable lawn 
tree. The Pavias are not so much planted as 
they deserve to be; they are nearly related to 
the Horse Chestnut, but are much smaller in 
every way, and flower late in summer. The 
scarlet Oak should be planted for its bright 
autumn tint, and there are many other Oaks not 
commonly planted which might be used to give 
variety and character to our Oak plantations. 
The Lucombe Oak is well worthy a prominent 
position, and the Turkey Oak may be useful for 
its handsome shape and rapid growth. The 
Canadian Poplar is a very handsome large- 
foliaged tree, and would make a grand avenue 
tree; and the Aspen Poplar might be planted 
for the quivering music of its foliage ; it should 
be located near water. There are several kinds 
of Walnuts which may be planted for their fruit, 
and they are not unornamental in appearance, 
and Walnuts are nice trees to sit under in hot 
weather, as flies and other insects usually avoid 
them. The Tulip Tree is a grand tree where it 
thrives, but handsome specimens are far from 
being common. Planters seem to run pretty 
much in one groove, and, so far as I have seen, 
anything that is rare is not selected except by 
connoisseurs. Hut there are a host of subjects, 
really handsome things, capable of inspiring 
interest, and yet they are usually passed over. 
Besides the Tulip Tree, I may name the Maiden¬ 
hair tree (Salisburia),the flowering Ash (Ormus), 
the Service Tree (Pyrus sorbus), the Cataipa, the 
Locust Tree (Robinia), the Snowy Mespilus(Ame- 
lanchier),the Bird Cherry, the Fern-leaved Beech, 
and many good things in Magnolias. The Purple 
Beech is indispensable, as no other tree can give 
us its peculiar metallic tint. The Tree of Heaven 
(Ailanthus glandulosa); the Mountain Ash 
should be planted for its bright fruit; the double 
flowered Cherries and Peaches are excellent fore¬ 
ground plants, and the Mulberry should occupy 
a quiet corner somewhere. Hawthorns are in 
great force now in the best nurseries, and both 
double and single flowered varieties may be had 
in many shades of colour. 

Firr avenue planting, there are the Horse 
Chestnut, the Spanish Chestnut, the Canadian 
Poplar, the Beech, the Lime, the London Plane, 
and the Elms in several varieties and species. 
For evergreen avenues the Cedar of Lebanon is 
unequalled, and the Holly for avenues of less 
extent has its merits, especially for a winter 
residence. The Laburnum is so well kriown and 
appreciated, it is perhaps scarcely necessary to 
mention it in a list that does not profess to an ex¬ 
haustive catalogue. Then, again, what a source 
of beauty there is almost untouched by the 
average planter in the 

Weeping trees .—I was looking the other day 
at a Weeping Birch standing on a bank, 
and wishing every [planter could see how 
beautiful and effective it was. Then there are 
Weeping Beeches and Elms, and the Weeping 
Lime is really a good thing where a pendant 
tree of rapid growth is required. It has good 
foliage, white underneath, and it flowers later 
than the common form. The Weeping Ash, of 
course, is an old favourite, and the Weeping 
Willows add a new beauty to the margins of 
lakes and rivers. Sophora japonica is a very 
pretty weeping tree for small lawns. More 
might be done with weeping trees in giving 
character to both small and large gardens. In 
all cases they must occupy prominent positions, 
where their peculiar characteristics can be seen 
to the best advantage. 

Standard trees .—For the most part standard 
trees are grafted or budded 4 feet or more high, 
and have either round or conical shaped heads, 
though in the case of weeping trees a pendant 
habit is obtained. The Cotoneaster microphylla 
grafted on the Thorn form pretty weeping trees 
in miniature, and the Pyracantha grafted 
standard high has a pretty effect when in fruit. 
Hollies in many varieties may be had as 


standards. Thorns likewise, and LaburntitQS, 
Rhododendrons, Portugal Laurels, Laurestines, 
and Japanese Privets are useful evergreens. For 
flowering deciduous specimens the double- 
blossomed Cherry, the Peach, and the Almond 
are desirable things in spring The Spindle 
trees (Euonymus) in several species when laden 
with fruit are very effective. Acer negundo 
variegata (variegated Maple) is a very effective 
little tree for a foreground of choice things, and 
probably the more recently introduced orna¬ 
mental Maples from Japan will be found hardy, 
such as Acer polymorphum, atropurpurea, &c. 
The Sweet Bays make neat standards, but are 
scarcely hardy in our climate ; they are, neverthe¬ 
less useful when grown in tubs to stand on 
terraces or in conspicuous positions in the 
geometrical garden, to break up its flat surface. 
They should be placed under shelter during 
severe weather. Standard Laurestines are very 
effective employed in this way. Rhus glabra 
lacinata is a very pretty little foreground shrub 
or tree iu miniature, and the Acacia inermis 
makes one of the best and prettiest standard 
trees for town gardens, its small, compact habit 
rendering it suitable for forecourt gardening. 
The Golden Yew grafted standard has a very 
effective appearance among green-leaved things. 

E. Houday. 

(To he continued.) 


OUTDOOR PLANT& 


PAMPAS GRASS. 

Many* have been disappointed with this orna¬ 
mental grass, either on account of the plumes 
not coming to the silvery whiteness w-bich 
makes a well developed specimen a very striking 
object, or by reason of their not opening suffi¬ 
ciently early to allow of their complete develop¬ 
ment. The greater portion of the plants 
sold by nurserymen are seedlings which are 
apt to vary much in quality and time of 
blooming, so much so indeed that a percentage 
of them are almost sure to be always entirely 
wanting in those characteristics which render 
the Pampas Grass such a desirable addition to 
the outdoor garden. In some cases the flower 
spikes remain quite green and do not expand, 
and as it fortunately happens that these ill- 
coloured novelties are those which bloom so 
late, there need be no hesitation as to dis¬ 
carding them. Whoever may have a Pampas 
Grass answering to the above description should 
destroy it, and substitute for it another better 
variety. There exists a variety of dwarf compact 
habit, having a finer foliage, and which does not 
seem to vary much when propagated from seed, 
the plumes being as a rule purer than the type. 
This is the kind which owners of small gardens 
should, if possible, procure, as it requires com¬ 
paratively but little space, and is by far the more 
graceful plant. 

Preparing the soil.— The Pampas Grass 
will grow more or less well in almost any kind 
of soil, from nearly pure sand to stiff loam 
verging on clay, but, like all other hardy plants, 
it well repays good culture. As this grass is not 
effective until it attains considerable dimensions, 
where the natural soil is poor it should be well 
enriched with rotten manure ; and if of a sandy, 
porous nature, it will be well to incorporate with 
it some good holding loam, pulverised clay, road, 
scrapings, or any good soil of a nature likely to 
render the natural staple more moisture-holding 
and lastingly nutritious. Poor, light soils cannot 
be too deeply stirred; the more easily the 
roots descend into the earth, the better will 
the plants withstand heat and drought, and the 
greater will be the store of food at their disposal. 
Stir them to a depth of 2 feet, and thoroughly 
mix whatever improving materials are added with 
the entire mass of earth. 

Planting.— There is no better time for 
planting Pampas Grass than the middle of April, 
and if the plants cannot be set out by the end 
of September at the latest, they should be 
allowed to remain untouched until winter has 
quite passed away, and growth and root action 
have once more commenced. Never be tempted 
to plant Tam pas Grass in winter, as this is a 
plant which does not appear able to resist our 
climate at that time, unless the roots have a firm 
grasp of the soil, so that unless transplantation 
is effected at a time when root action has not 
ceased, or has fairly begun, there is but little 
prospect of good growth being made that season. 



March 10, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


17 


an A much chance of the plants dying should the | 
winter prove severe. Planted in April they 
immediately start into growth, and get so well 
established by the autumn that only very ex¬ 
ceptional weather will affect them. 

Position. —Plenty of sun and shelter from 
high winds are essential to the perfect well¬ 
being of the Pampas Grass ; the sun to give 
strength to the foliage aad hasten the ma¬ 
turity of the flower-spikes, and shelter to pre¬ 
serve them in good condition when expanded, 
as the beauty of this fine Grass is often com¬ 
pletely marred by the rough westerly and 
southerly winds which frequently usher in the 
autumn months. To me there is something 
incongruous in the appearance of a Pampas Grass 
standing completely isolated ; it seems to wear a 
more-at-home look when in the close proximity 
of some other vegetation, not completely sur¬ 
rounded by it, but backed up by evergreens or 
deciduous trees or shrubs, which, Nvhilst forming 
a complete contrast to it, imparts the needful 
security against violent storms. It is quite a 
mistake to plant the Pampas Grass amongst 
rank-growing shrubs, as, if these latter do not 
smother it, they hide its fine graceful propor¬ 
tions, and almost entirely destroy the effect 
which this plant is capable of producing in a 
high state of development. Amongst low-growing 
evergreens it is rightly placed, and when, as is 
often the case, it forms one of the occupants of 
the shrubbery, this is the only proper position 
lor it. Byfleet. 


Sowing annuals under glass. —There 
are many very beautiful flowers raised from 
seed, which, although quite hardy, are grateful 
for a little protection in their earliest stages of 
growth, for in the spring the ground is cold, and 
slugs and other garden pests are active, and 
when growth is slow these destroyers are most 
active, and after many years’ trial I have found 
it far the most economical plan to sow seeds in 
pans or boxes under glass. A good drainage of 
crocks should be put at the bottom, then some 
rough soil, finishing off with finely sifted soil. 
It is not necessary to have heated glass struc¬ 
tures, for a cold frame, or cold house, or even a 
window will suffice to bring on the young plants 
as the cheery rays of the spring sunshine gain 
strength; and as soon as the plants are well 
rooted they may be set out in the shelter of a 
wall until the middle or end of April, when they 
may be planted out in the southern part of the 
kingdom, but in the central and northern parts 
it will be best to wait until May is well advanced. 
Asters are amongst the best and most useful 
of plants, and if got up to nice sturdy plants by 
May will make a fine display. Stocks of the 
dwarf section, or what are called German Ten- 
week, are really beautiful and fragrant. Zinnias 
in great variety of colour make capital bed or 
border flowers. Carnations if raised early as 
seedlings make excellent material for the flower 
basket, even the single ones proving acceptable 
for this purpose. The Paris Daisies, or Mar¬ 
guerites, are now in great favour both as pot 
plants and for open beds. Phlox Drummondi 
is well worth all the attention that can be given 
it; also Portulacas, Rhodanthe maculata, Prince’s 
Feather, Marvel of Peru, Tagetes signata, Me- 
sembryanthemums, Cineraria maritima, and 
Amarantus melancholicus.—J. G., Hants. 

9333— Culture of single Dahlias.— 
These demand the same treatment as the double 
kinds—requiring to be set out in good soil about 
the second week in June. They may easily be 
raised from seed, which, if the young plants 
are to bloom the same season, should be sown 
in warmth early in the year, growing them along 
in heat until May,and then gradually hardening 
them off, so that they bear exposure to the open 
air by the beginning of June. Old roots may 
either be started in warmth in April, or may be 
allowed to break naturally in a cool structure. 
If placed in warmth about the middle of February 
they will furnish cuttings which will strike freely 
in a temperature of 60°. In the meanwhile the 
ground should be prepared for them by deeply 
Egging it, stirring it several times with the 
I°rk, and adding plenty of good manure. Set 
the plants out 4 feet apart, and insert a strong 
stake to each one at the same time, later on 
adding several more in such a manner as to 
^ord support to the main branches, which 
> otherwise are liable to be broken off by rough 
is w inds. Look sharply after slu^s after planting, 

Digitized by GOOgle 


keeping the soil around the plants thickly! 
strewn with soot and water in dry weather.— 
J. C. B. 

9340.— Lilium auratum in the open 
ground. — It is only under exceptionally 
favourable conditions that this Lily thrives from 
year to year in the open ground in this country. 
Planted amongst Rhododendrons in good peaty 
soil, it often succeeds admirably, getting shelter 
against spring frosts, and not suffering from 
stagnant moisture in winter. In a general way 
the bulbs flower well the first year, indifferently 
the second, and do not come up the third, our 
moi9t winters causing them to decay, and this is 
why one does not find this Lily in a thriving 
condition in gardens generally. The only way 
to succeed is to take out the natural soil 2 feet 
deep, put 6 inches of brick rubble at the bottom, 
and fill up with sandy peat, which seems to 
exercise a preservative effect on the bulbs. In 
the northern parts of this country the bed may 
be made in full sunshine, but in warm localities 
it is better to secure some shelter against mid¬ 
day sun.—J. C. B. 

G-reat Pile wort (Ficaria grandiflora).— 
One of the brightest ornaments among the 
earliest of our spring flowers is this Pilewort— 
the value of which is as yet not half enough 



known. It is really a bold, handsome flower 
suitable either for adorning the flower border 
early in spring or for cutting purposes, for, un¬ 
like its congener the common Pilewort, it bears 
its flowers on tall slender stalks amidst rich 
green foliage. It seems to revel in retentive 
soil, for it is a plant that will not take kindly 
to dry, poor soil. As an early spring flower it is 
much to be recommended. It is known also as 
F. calthsefolia and Ranuncnlus Ficaria grandi¬ 
flora. 

9347.~Climbersfor trees.—Strong growing 
kinds of the Jackmanni section of the Clematis 
would give the be9t climbers for tree stems, as 
they are remarkably effective when in bloom, 
and will give divers hues of colour. Some of 
the strong growing Tea Roses, such as Gloire de 
Dijon and Cheshunt Hybrid, would do also. 
Some of the robust hardy Honeysuckles are also 
good tree climbers. It is worth pointing out 
that the Weeping Elm is a shallow rooter, and 
that if beds be made over the roots, or the soil 
be made specially good to receive climbers, the 
roots will run in and eat up all the fresh soil in 
a season, so that climbers would have but little 
chance in a year or two. That is a point which 
must be faced, and, if possible, should be pro¬ 
vided against.—A. D. 

- The Ivy is the most familiar climber we 

have, and right beautiful it makes many a 


withered trunk with its glossy leaves. Amongst 
the best flowering creepers I have tried are Roses 
of the common kinds, such as the Dundee 
Rambler, the Banksian Rose, white and yellow; 
Aimee Vibert, and others. Next to the Rose, 
and even excelling the climbing sorts in sweet¬ 
ness, are the Honeysuckles. These make rapid 
progress, and a tree covered with Honeysuckle 
is really one of the most delightful things in 
our gardens. The plain-leaved varieties are the 
sweetest, but the variegated Lonicera aurea 
reticulata is very beautiful, and holds its leaves 
well through the entire year. The Virginian 
Creeper, although deciduous, is well worthy of 
culture for the beautiful effect it produces in 
autumn; the small-leaved Ampelopsis Veitchi 
clings tenaciously to rough bark or any kind of 
support equal to Ivy. The Dutchman’s Pipe 
(Aristolochia sipho) is another deciduous climber 
of great merit, the foliage being very handsome. 
But perhaps the Clematis is the plant that will 
commend itself to the greatest number; the 
well-known Traveller’s Joy, or wild Clematis of 
our hedgerows, is an example of the adaptability 
of the Clematis for tree stem adornment. I well 
remember the beautiful effect produced by a wild 
Clematis that had taken possession of some lofty, 
slender Birch trees, and hung in graceful droop¬ 
ing wreaths, swaying with the slightest breeze. 
But the brilliant flowering varieties of the Jack¬ 
manni type are equally at home on tree stems, 
and the cultivated varieties of Hop, although 
they die down to the ground in winter, will make 
the stems and lower branches look really beau¬ 
tiful. Cydonia japonica, that produces its bril¬ 
liant blossoms in early spring, does well on tree 
stems, and looks particularly well mingling with 
Jasminum nudiflorum, that produces its bright 
yellow blossoms more or less all through the 
winter, and is quite aglow with golden blossoms. 
The common white Jasmine is also well worthy 
of culture, the flowers being very fragrant, and 
to these may be added Wistarias, Pyracanthas, 
Passiflora ccerulea, etc. The best plan I have 
found to establish climbers quickly is to get 
some plants well established in pots of the desired 
kinds, and excavate good-sized holes as near to 
the bole of the tree as possible, and fill them up 
with good rich soil to give the plants a rapid 
start. In spring, just as growth is commencing, 
is the best time to plant. Put strong strings or 
cord round the stem of the tree and tie the 
climbers to it as they progress in growth, water 
well in dry weather the first season, but after the 
young shoots reach the lowest branches they 
will need little more attention, for they will 
support themselves.—J. Groom. 

9349.— Evergreen climbers. — There is 
no better evergreen climber than Ivy, and al¬ 
though its flowers are poor and make no show, 
yet its splendid glossy dense foliage compensates 
for all floral deficiencies. Such creeping annuals 
as Cobaaas, Lophospermums, Canary Creepers, or 
other Tropieolums, would look very gay in the 
summer, but would give no covering for seven 
months of the year. The Pyracanthas, which 
produce such large bunches of coloured berries, 
are evergreen ; and a grand plant to cover walls 
in warm places, though not a climber, is the 
coral-flowered Escallonia macrantha, which has 
such deep-coloured leafage. This plant needs 
some slight protection during very hard weather 
—A. D. * 

-“Ireland ’*may find in the following list 

some climbers that would suit his purpose. 
First, the new evergreen Virginian Creeper (Am¬ 
pelopsis sempervirens,) which is a valuable 
addition to the limited number of ever¬ 
green climbers; it is rich in growth, and not 
unlike the pretty Veitchi, but retains its dark 
green shining foliage throughout the winter ; it 
is right to mention, however, that it requires 
nailing, as it does not cling as Veitchi does. The 
two varieties of Banksian Roses, with their bright 
green and distinct foliage and pretty clusters of 
yellow and white blossoms in early summer, are 
unique as evergreen climbers. The variegated, or 
Japanese Honeysuckle, as it is sometimes called 
(Lonicera aurea reticulata), and the evergreen 
Honeysuckles are also very useful; the Coto- 
neaster mycrophylla, with its bright red berries; 
Passion Flowers and Magnolias, for favourable 
positions; and the immense variety of plain 
and variegated Ivies, which will flourish in 
almost any situation, are all valuable climbers 
that retain their foliage during the winter. 
All that I have mentioned may be 
purchased in pots for transplanting at 



18 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 10, 1883. 


any time of the year, but the spring months 
are perhaps the most suitable. Amongst summer 
climbing plants the following are easily raised 
from seed and are very rapid in growth : Cobiea 
scandens, purple-lilac; Eccremocarpus scaber, 
bright orange-scarlet; Lophospermum scandens, 
deep rose; Maurandya Barclayana and Bar- 
clayana alba, beautiful blue and pure white; 
Ipomceas in variety ; the Tropaiolum canariense 
and the many brilliant varieties of Lobbianum 
are all quick growing and robust climbing 
plants, particularly suitable for covering old 
walls, trellis work, for festoons, or any other 
purpose for which flowering climbers and 
creepers are required.—\V. F. C., Bath. 

9325.— Ixias in the open ground.— A 

very sheltered situation and a well-drained soil 
are indispensable to the perfect growth of these 
Cape bulbs. There is no better place than the 
foot of a wall, but any position where the sun 
comes freely and screened from cold winds will 
do. Ixias like a free, rather sandy soil, and 
when the natural staple is of a heavy holding 
nature, some sand, leaf-mould, or light material 
of some kind should be added to it. Plant in 
February or March and take up the bulbs when 
the foliage dies away.—J. C. B. 

9.324— Cinerarias drooping.— Even with 
the best of care Cinerarias will sometimes dieoff 
in the winter, the stem rotting away at its 
junction with the soil : but careful watering 
wi 1 always prevent serious loss. The great 
point is to regulate the waterings so that the 
mould is kept just nicely moist without becom¬ 
ing in any way waterlogged. The plants should 
stand during the winter in a light but cool 
position, and if on an ash bed so much the 
better, as then frequent waterings are not needed. 
The soil should be light and well sanded. —J. C. B. 

9.343. -Sulphur-coloured Anemone — 

Probably it is the very little-known Anemone 
snlphurea that is alluded to, for few of this 
family of plants produce yellow-colouted flowers. 
Anemone palmata is a very old kind, but has 
tuberous roots, whilst A. sulphurea is one of the 
herbaceous section. One of the best known 
yellow-flowered Anemones is the little ranuncu- 
loides, the habit of which is very like that of 
our Wood Anemone nemorosa. Perhaps the 
kind to which “ J. C. M.” refers is, though hardy 
enough on the Alpine ranges, yet unfitted for 
cultivation in low countries. There are many 
Alpine plants that simply refuse to thrive even j 
with the utmost care away from their native 
habitat, as not only the climate and temperature 
but the peculiar soil also is lacking.—D. 

9272.— Bedding and show Pansies — 
I think Mr. Walters is right. A show Pansy is 
a Pansy with a small blotch. The judges may 
have been very good florists and not know very 
much about the Pansy. In this district we grow 
600 varieties, and consider Bluestone, Blue KiDg, 
Blue Bedder, P. W. Syme, Robert Grigor, Sunny 
Park Rival, &c., also several new ones of 1883 
and 1882—in fact, any blue Tansy with a good 
blotch—as blue seifs, “show” Pansies. In my 
opinion, a Pansy that will give as good a bloom 
for a show as Bluestone, and at the same time 
act as a bedder, ought to be encouraged in every 
exhibitor’s list. I have grown Pansies as long 
as I can remember, and never yet heard of a 
blue Pansy being disqualified as a bedder.— 
Roxburghshire. 


Fixing hot-water pipes— In reference 
to “ B. C. R.’s ” article on the fixing of hot-water 
pipes, I would be glad if others who have had 
long experience with indiarubber rings for 
sockets would state the average duration of these 
—say 4-inch ones. One tells me they will last 
ten years, another twenty years, and an engineer 
here “very many yearsbut “ B. C .R.” says only 
“ one or two years ” if a constant strong heat is 
applied. The pipes with which this engineer 
has to do are done with rings. Steam heat is 
applied, and some of the pipes are subject to 
40 pounds pressure; yet he says the rings last 
very long. If a pipe cracks by reason of over¬ 
pressure, and causes a leakage, instead of a new 
pipe, thin, flat indiarnbber is put on the crack 
or crevice, and held tight with sheet iron around, 
bolted. As this is a question for the public good, 
let those who have managed rings for years give 
their experience of their duration, as surely they 
will last longer than a year or two, else they 
would not be bought, 4-inch socket rings costing 

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about 12s. a dozen wholesale. So far as I am 
aware, these rings are now generalh' used; and 
would they be used knowing that their duration 
is no longer than “ B. C. R.” says, or even five 
years; and that the same joint to last a century 
might be done with Portland cement for one- 
twelfth its cost ? So expeditious is this mode 
over others that a house 180 feet long may be 
done with socket rings in two days by two men, 
four rows only within. For quickness in fitting 
it is not so much in the pushing in the proper 
placing of the end to enter socket; indeed, 
without this care pushing is useless.— P. 


VEGETABLES. 


THE CARROT. 

This w'ell-known vegetable is probably more 
extensively cultivated in England than any other 
root crop. In addition to being one of the most 
agreeable of vegetable dishes, it is in every-day 
use in the kitchen for flavouring soups, stews, &c. 
The Carrot is considered to be highly nutritious, 
and when subjected to good culture constitutes 
a most profitable crop whether grown for 
kitchen use or for hog fattening, the weight of 
roots that can be produced per acre in good soils 
being something enormous. 

Soil —The most suitable soil for the culture 
of the Carrot is one of a sandy character, and 
where long-rooted sorts are cultivated it must 
be deep; but if short-rooted kinds are grown, 
depth is not of so much importance. Carrots should 
never be grown on land that has been recently 
manured, but be grown after other crops for 
which the land was enriched. Carrots grown in 
stiff clayey soil are always anything but satis¬ 
factory. and when such soils exist, the following 
method may be pursued with advantage After 
deeply digging the ground, ranks of holes may 
be made in straight lines along the bed by means 
of a taper-pointed dibber ; this done, the holes 
should be filled up with fine rich sandy 
soil, and a few seeds sown in each. As the plants 
advance in growth they should be gradually 
thinned out, eventually bearing only the strong¬ 
est in each place. These row’s of holes made 
should be for large growing kinds 8 inches apart, 
and 5 or 6 inches apart in the rows. Short Horn 
varieties may be as thick again ; thus treated ex¬ 
cellent sorts may be obtained. 

Sowing 1 , &c —The main crop of Carrots is 
generally made in the end of March, but it is a 
good plan to sow half the crop in the middle^of 
that month and the other early in April; this 
will in a measure guard against the Carrot grub, 
which pest frequently destroys a greater part of 
early sown crops. In cottage gardens we seldom 
see the Short Horn kinds of Carrots grown in 
such quantities as we could wish. They are 
certainly the best flavoured and most nutritious, 
and, moreover, they take up little space, and can 
be grown in a much shallower soil than long 
growing sorts. The Scarlet Horn is the best of 
these small kinds for cottagers* use, and the seed 
may be sown broadcast in a warm border as 
early as February for giving a supply in May 
and June, and several other sowings may be made 
through the summer, not forgetting to.make a 
sowing in August for pulling through thewinter. 
For the main crops the seed should be sown 
in drills 9 inches apart, more or less according 
to the variety grown, and be slightly covered 
with fine soil. The exact distance to which 
Carrots should be left apart when thinned must, 
in a measure, be determined by the varieties 
grown, but in no case is it advisable to thin 
them out to the required distance at one time. 
The first thinning should take place as soon as 
the plants are large enough to be conveniently 
handled, leaving them just as thick again in the 
rows as they are ultimately required to remain. 
They may then be allowed to grow until they 
have attained considerable size, when each alter¬ 
nate one may be pulled out for present use, and 
the remainder be allowed to attain their full 
size. The subsequent culture consists simply in 
hoeing between the row’s, and pulling out the 
weeds from amongst the plants. 

Varieties. —There are many varieties of 
Carrots in cultivation, some of which are only 
fit for pigs and cattle. The best varieties for 
table use are the Scarlet Horn, Early Nantes, 
James’s Scarlet Intermediate, and Altrincham. 
Long Surrey and Belgian Green-top, and other 


large-growing varieties, should be grown only 
for the pig. 

Lifting the crop, storing, &c — Carrots 
are by no means improved by being left in the 
ground all the winter, inasmuch as they are 
liable to become rotten and worm-eaten. It is 
therefore advisable, as soon as the leaves begin 
to turn yellow in the autumn,-to lift the roots 
and store them away in dry sand or soil in any 
cool shed or cellar, or, in the absence of such a 
place, they may be stacked away in clamps in 
the open ground in the same way as Potatoes. 

Insects and diseases.— The principal 
enemies of the Carrot are the Carrot grub and 
wireworm. The former is the most difficult one 
to keep in check ; indeed, it may almost be said 
that there is no preventive beyond growing 
the roots in deep, sandy, well pulverized soil, 
subject to frequent dressings of quicklime 
applied in the autumn, and well incorporated 
with the soil. Land infested with either of the 
above pests should be exposed to the influence 
of frosty weather by throwing it up in ridges, 
and leaving it in as rough a condition as pos¬ 
sible during the winter. 


Vegetable Marrows.— At this time of 
year when owners of gardens are deciding on 
what crops of vegetables to grow, it may be well 
to urge the claims of the Vegetable Marrow’, for 
it is most prolific and may be grown in positions 
that can hardly be turned to any other account. 
I have found excellent results follow from 
adopting the following plan, viz., when Cabbage 
and Broccoli stumps are cleared off the ground, 
they are made to form the foundation of a bed 
on which is packed any kind of garden refuse 
that has accumulated duriDg the winter, 
finishing off with old potting soil, or even ordi¬ 
nary kitchen garden soil; if this is packed 
together as a solid bed, decomposition of the 
green vegetable matter will cause a gentle 
bottom-heat that will last for a long time, and 
keep up a healthy, vigorous growth in the plants 
to the end of the seasoD. The seed should be 
sown in March, one seed in a 3-inch pot is the 
least trouble, as it saves the necessity of potting 
off. In a warm house or frame the plants will 
be up in a few days, and when they have made 
four leaves they may be put in a cold house and 
hardened off, and in April some liandlights or 
bell-glasses should be set on the soil and two 
plants put under each. A box with a sheet of 
glass laid on the top to form a miniature frame 
answers well if hand-glasses are not available, 
as the sun-heat will generally be found suffi¬ 
cient to keep the plants growing until in May 
they will begin to extend rapidly and require 
more space, when the box or liandlights may be 
raised on bricks placed under each corner, a 
covering of litter or straw being put over the 
soil to keep the moisture from evaporating so 
rapidly. Cut the fruits directly they are large 
enough, and water liberally in dry weather, and 
few crops will repay the labour expended on 
them better than Vegetable Marrows.—J. 
Groom, Seajiehl , Oosj)ort. 

Prizes for Peas. —We are requested to 
publish the following : In order to stimulate the 
production of new sorts of early Peas and high 
quality in early sorts, and also to test the value 
of Mr. Laxton’s latest effort in this direction, 
Messrs. Hooper and Co., of Covent Garden, offer 
the following special prizes, to be competed for 
at the Royal Horticultural Society’s meeting at 
South Kensington on May 22 next—viz., for two 
dishes of early Peas, one of them to be Laxton’s 
Earliest of All, first prize, £3 ; second, 30s. ; 
third, 15s. Each di-h to consist of twenty-five 
pods, and the trade mark of the seed packet of 
Earliest of All must be placed on the exhibit, as 
a proof of its genuineness. Intending exhibitors 
will please make a note of this announcement, 
as it is not inserted in the society’s schedule. 

92S8.- Maggots In Onions.— Onions are 
subject to maggot when grown on ground which 
is inclined to be coarse or rank. Early in the 
autnmn the ground should be deeply dug, work¬ 
ing in a sufficient quantity of well-decayed 
manure, also a quantity of wood ashes or charred 
rubbish, leaving the surface rough for the winter 
frost, so as to have in the spring what you would 
term a rich, sweet, and mellow soil. Then be¬ 
fore breaking in the ground with the rake, in 
preparation for the seed, give a coating of soot 
and wood ashes. I have found the above plan 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Maech 10, 1883] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


19 


answer well for the maggot and mildew. Some 
make a mistake in the preparation of wood ashes. 
Any combustible rubbish, such as prunings of 
fruit trees, gooseberries, hedge clippings, &c., 
should be made into a bonfire. When consumed, 
the heap should be covered over with soil made 
firm with a spade. When allowed to smoulder, 
a red or white ash is produced of little or no con¬ 
sequence, and nearly every property relating to 
charcoal is gone.— Kibkton. 

-I should advise “ W. A.” not to use pig 

manure for the Onion bed, as that will create 
grub and other insects, which he is so desirous of 
getting rid of. The ground should be well ridged 
up in autumn, so as to get exposed to frost as 
much as possible, and some good, short, stable 
manure should be forked into the soil when the 
bed is being prepared. I find wood ashes very 
beneficial. In drawing the drills I draw them 
rather deep, and partly fill up with the ashes, 
then sow the seed and fill in the drills in the 
usual way. If the grub should make its appear¬ 
ance, which may be detected by the deformed 
appearance of the young Onions, paraffin oil 
mixed with water, at the rate of half a pint 
of oil to four gallons of water, and applied to the 
bed with a fine-rosed water-pot, will check their 
ravages. The operation may be repeated at 
intervals if necessary.—T. P. Cowley. 

9363.— Chou de Burghley.— This is a 
bastard kind of Broccoli, a form common enough 
in Broccolis, but in this case has been carefully 
selected and made a set form, so that it will 
come true from seed. It should be sown early 
as Broccolis are, and be planted out in good 
ground, giving ample space. Its peculiarity is 
that it may be cut as a Cabbage in the autumn, 
or be allowed to stand, when it will take the 
form of a Broccoli in the spring. Of course, if 
cut in the autumn as a Cabbage there is an end 
of it, but then it is not better than any ordinary 
Cabbage, whilst if left to stand as a Broccoli, it 
is hardly so good as any good Broccoli, though 
perhaps hardier.—A. D. 

9355.— Climbing’ French Bean.— There 
was a climbing or runner French Bean named 
Premier in commerce a few years since, but it 
is not certain that it is now in trade. It was 
sent. out by the Messrs. Yeitch, of Chelsea. The 
dried seeds were reddish blotched in colour, and 
the bean exactly resembled that of some good 
dwarf kind. It was esteemed as very prolific, 
and presenting a delightful change from the 
monotony of the ordinary Scarlet Runner.—A. 


INDOOR PLANTS, 

HOW TO GROW BALSAMS. 

Tue Balsam is without doubt “everybody’s 
plant,” for it may certainly be grown by anyone, 
in town or country, either in the greenhouse, 
frame, or window. To produce really fine plants, 
fit for exhibition, a very light glass structure of 
some kind is, however, absolutely necessary, and 
to give the best results this should be a span, 
roofed structure, either house or pit will do, with 
very wide panes, light rafters, low, so that the 
plants will be close to the glass, and provided 
with a few heating pipes. Balsams cannot be 
grown well in a dark, heavy, or lofty house; 
full and free light, with plenty of air, and a little 
warmth, are the very essentials of their healthy 
growth. 

Seed should not be sown before the middle 
of March at the earliest, and as Balsams are 
usually not wanted before the month of August, 
and fine plants can be produced in three months 
from the time of sowing, or even less, April or 
the early part of May even is not at all too late. 
Sow the seed in pots or boxes, nearly half full 
of drainage, using a light, rich mixture of about 
equal parts of yellow loam, leaf-mould, and 
sand, at any rate this compost should be used 
on the surface, though something rougher will 
do below. Moisten the soil well, having pressed 
it down firmly, then surface with a little dry 
soil, on this scatter the seeds thinly, just cover 
with fine soil, and place a sheet of glass over the 
pot or box. A temperature of 60° or 65° 
is quite sufficient to induce the seed to germi¬ 
nate, and the plants will thus be much stronger 
than if raised in a greater degree of heat. 
When the young plants appear the} - must be 
placed within 3 inches or 4 inches of the glass, 
and this should be both wide and clean. Admit 
& little air for some hours daily, and maintain a 

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fairly moist atmosphere by frequently using the 
syringe in the house or pit. 

When the young plants have formed the first 
pair of rough or proper leaves, lift them care¬ 
fully and pot off singly into 3-inch pots ; give 
good drainage, use a light rich mixture of leaf- 
mould, loam, and sand, and bury the stems in 
potting as deeply as possible, or nearly up to 
the seed-leaves. Water them well, and keep 
close in a temperature of about 60° for a few 
days subsequently, shading from the sun. From 
this stage onward, until the plants come into 
flower, it is absolutely necessary that they should 
be kept as close to the glass as possible, in full 
and free light, and air should be admitted daily, 
more or less according to the weather. If kept 
too close. Balsams speedily become drawn 
and weak, yet the lights should be closed during 
all cold or stormy periods. As soon as ever 
the roots begin to coil round the sides of these 
small pots, give a shift into 5-inch or G-inch pots, 
and keep close a little for a few days as be¬ 
fore. 

Soil. —For this shift use a compost of two 
parts rich yellow loam and one each of decayed 
manure and leaf-soil. Make the soil fairly firm, 
and again bury the stems a little deeper, so as 
to bring the junction of the first pair of 
branches down to the level of the soil, or as 
nearly so as possible. Keep the plants growing 
on freely by a genial and even warmth of 60° 
to 65°, or thereabouts—more only weakens the 
plants, also by frequent syrmgings overhead ; 
the syringe may be drawn over a batch of Bal¬ 
sams ten or a dozen times on a bright day, with 
the greatest advantage. 

Strengthen the growth by free admission of 
air both by day and night in genial weather; 
water abundantly at the roots, and if the plants 
are to bloom in these pots some good liquid 
manure must be given twice or three times a 
week as soon as ever they are full of roots. 
Administer this weak at first, and gradually 
increase the strength. If large plants are wanted, 
shift into 7, 8, or 9-ineh pots directly the last 
are filled. Balsams should never be pinched or 
stopped in any way, merely tie the branches 
into shape if needed. Abundance of light and 
air and liberal feeding are the great secrets of 
success. 

Balsams may he grown to a considerable 
degree of perfection in a cold frame by care¬ 
fully husbanding the heat of the sun, shutting 
up in good time, and throwing a mat over the 
frame in very cold nights. In all other respects 
proceed exactly as directed above; in this case, 
however, Eeed should not be sown before quite 
the end of April, or some time in May. In 
windows Balsams are frequently very well 
grown. In this case the plants must be well 
fed with water and liquid manure, freely venti¬ 
lated, and kept always as near the light as 
possible. B. C. R. 


GREEN CARPETS FOR FERNS. 

The beauty of every fernery is much enhanced 
by having the larger kinds o: Ferns growing 
out of some plant of dwarfer natit, and at the 
same time the Ferns themselves are much bene¬ 
fited thereby, becanse there is not the excessive 
evaporation constantly going cn during dry and 
hot weather. The small Ferns are best without 
any carpet. They are the choicest, rarest and 
most difficult to grow, and as they require a 
little extra attention, it would be better not to 
run the risk of their being smothered. The 
following grow best on the perpendicular, and 
will scarcely admit of any carpet, unless it be 
the Mosses, which will soon establish themselves 
naturally : The Maidenhair, all the Aspleniums, 
the hard Fern (Bleehnum spicant), the Parsley 
Fern (Allosorus crispus), the Woodsias, and 
Hymenophyllums. As the most appropriate 
carpet for a fernery is a Fern, I place first on 
the list the 

Oak: Fern (rolypodium dryopteris). It 
suits the tall Lastreas, Polystichums, Athyriums, 
Osmundas, Onoclea sensibilis, and Struthiopteris 
germanica, See. Now is a good tune to plant it, 
as it is at rest. Remove 1 inch of soil, spread 
the branching underground stems on the surface, 
peg them down a little, or, better still, fix them 
with a few pieces of gritty sandstone or broken 
brick, and then cover with leaf-mould and peat. 
It will spread rapidly, and cannot fail to please 
during spring, summer, and autumn. 


Selaginella denticulata.— If I were 
compelled to adhere to one carpet only this 
would bo my choice, being well adapted to a 
moist fernery, and rooting as it runs over the 
surface. There is an element of tenderness in 
its constitution, and a severe winter will clear 
off great patches of it, but some is sure to re¬ 
main to replace quickly that which was lost. It 
is a very shallow rooting plant, and looks 
especially fresh and green during the moist at¬ 
mosphere of autumn and winter. It loves shade ; 
sunshine soon shrivels it up. I once tried it as 
a carpet to the blue African Lily (Agapanthus 
umbellatus) in a warm border well exposed to 
the sun. Result, complete failure. I am sure 
it would be worth the trouble of keeping a stock 
of it in cold frames during winter, and planting 
it out among the Ferns in spring. It will suit 
Ferns of large or medium size. Scolopendriums 
look very well in it. 

The Wood Anemone (Anemone nerno- 
rosa).—A glorious carpet in spring when the 
deciduous Ferns are at rest. Tins is one of the 
most beautiful of our native wild flowers, and 
those who have seen acres and acres of it in full 
bloom, as we have it about here, will never for¬ 
get the charm it adds to woodland scenery. 
Leaf and flower are alike ornamental. It is 
easily propagated, for the least scrap of the 
thick fleshy stems, popularly called roots, will 
grow. It planted itself here by being carried in 
among leaf-mould from a neighbouring wood. It 
loves shady places. 

Saxifraga sarmentosa. — The creeping 
Saxifrage, or our old friend the “Wandering Jew.” 
Well adapted for shady places, where the leaves 
assume a dark green colour, and the markings 
become more strongly defined than in full ex¬ 
posure to light. It answers well in rough fer¬ 
neries where there is plenty of the perpendicular 
over which it can droop, and in the crevices of 
which it can root itself. Perfectly hardy. Habit, 
that of the Strawberry. I planted it out many 
years ago, and it has taken care of itself ever 
since. 

The oregoing have been my groundwork for 
Ferns for many years past. There are many 
other plants which would answer equally well. I 
am sure Campanula hederacea would do. I have 
no experience of the Arenarias as shade loving 
plants. Have any readers of Gardening tried 
Campanula csespitosa or any of the mossy Saxi¬ 
frages 1 E. J. 


Winter - flowering Geraniums.— In 

Gardening, Feb. 3, there appear two articles 
on the above subject, though not under exactly 
the same heading. The first one is signed “ C.,” 
who says that to have Geraniums to bloom well 
in winter they must have suitable preparation 
in summer. The second one is signed “ A. B. T., 
East Anglia,” who says that no special t reatment 
is required to have them blooming continuously 
all the year round. I should like to know 
which is right, I myself have always found 
that to have a good display of Geranium bloom 
in winter, the plants must have care and atten¬ 
tion to their wants in summer, and I always 
found them repay any trouble I might have in 
giving them a suitable preparation, and I can 
endorse the remarks of “ C.,” both as to prepara¬ 
tion and the varieties he mentions. As this is a 
matter that has been brought much under our 
notice of late, it would be interesting to have 
the experience of readers who have grown this 
ever-useful plant for winter bloom. — W. G. 
J E WITT. 

Luculia gratissima.— Wherever there is 
a warm greenhouse this should find a place, 
planted out if convenient; if not, in a large pot 
or tub. It is rather a difficult plant to strike, 
and the cuttings must be put in when they have 
arrived at the right age and size. If too young 
and sappy they are liable to damp off, and if too 
old they will not root freely. I found them to 
succeed best when about! inches or 5 inches long, 
taken off with a heel. Healthy plants in a 
genial temperature, say that of an intermediate 
house, start into growth immediately they have 
done flowering, and when the young shoots have 
attained the size just mentioned they should be 
put in pots filled with sand in the ordinary way, 
kept moist, and covered with propagating glasses, 
being careful that the cuttings are neither 
allowed to flag before being put in or after¬ 
wards. Should this occur the chances are that 
few will strike. In other respects this most 


20 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 10, 1883. 


beautiful and fragrant of autumn flowering 
plants requires no special treatment. It thrives 
ia good turfy loam with a little sand, and makes 
more progress, especially in its early stages, if 
treated to an intermediate temperature than 
that of a greenhouse. 

Tiie common Syrlnga forced.—If 

plants of this are taken up very early, that is, 
immediately after the leaves fall, they will be 
found to force well, as then they have timo to 
get root hold, but. by far the best way of mana¬ 
ging them is to keep them in pots plunged 
during the summer, as when they are established, 
they are the more able to push forth and open 
their blooms. SyriDgas will not stand hard 
forcing, but should be brought on gradually by 
standing the plants in any cool house or pot for 
prolecticn till the turn of the year, when they 
may be introduced to the gentle heat of a vinery 
jusrt put to work. Syringas, Guelder Roses, 
Deutzias, Lilacs, and hardy Azaleas may be 
helped forward by being plunged deeply in a 
bed of fresh gathered leaves, where, feeling the 
slight warmtli they afford, roots are set in 
motion, and the buds swell up by steady degrees, 
and produce much finer bloom than is generally 
seen without such assistance. Why .Syringas 
are not more grown, I think, for forcing, is that 
the scent of the flowers is too strong for most 
people, but one or two plants in a greenhouse or 
conservatory are not overpowering in the per¬ 
fume they exhale.—J. S. 

Persian Cyclamens- Cyclamen gigan- 
teuru roseum superbum is a long name for a very 
lovely variety of the Persian Cyclamen. The 
flowers come very large, and are of a beautiful 
soft rose tint, which in the case of large speci¬ 
mens carrying a score or so of expanded blooms 
is extremely pleasing and effective. The indi¬ 
vidual flowers certainly do not come very near 
to the florists’ ideal, but their size compensates 
for any deficiency in this respect, whilst the 
foliage is broad, of great substance, and prettily 
mottled. Those who grow Cyclamens should 
acquire this variety.— Byfleet. 

Amaryllis—Where a sufficient stock of 
these is cultivated, and their growth was com¬ 
pleted early so as to admit of their being put to 
rest in good time, a portion may now be started, 
as by regulating the period of growth and rest, 
they may be had in at almost any time. They will 
bear a brisk heat, and if the bulbs are strong 
they will seldom fail to flower. Give the soil a 
good soaking. This is earlier than it would be 
advisable to start the main stock, but if a few be 
put in heat at a time they will give a succession, 
and the earliest flowered portion will come in 
when flowers are not too plentiful. 

Japanese Chrysanthemums.— These 
are certainly very valuable for late flowering, 
many of them blooming at a time when the 
greater portion of the reflexed and incurved 
kinds are over, lasting some of them quite up to 
February. Even those who do not care for 
Chrysanthemums in a general way would do well 
to patronise the Japanese varieties, as they pre¬ 
sent such a graceful appearance when used in a 
cut state. Cuttings put in now in a cold frame 
or cool greenhouse will make good plants by the 
autumn.— Byfleet. 

Guillion Mangilli Pelargonium.— Mr. 
Martin forms a correct estimate of the merits of 
this variety. It is really one of the most useful 
kinds in cultivation, and I would strongly urge 
those who may not have grown it to give it a 
trial. Some two years ago much was written 
about this Pelargonium in a contemporary, and 
one of our foremost plant growers asserted that 
as a winter bloomer it had no equal. However 
this may be, it certainly is a fine variety for 
winter flowering, as the trusses are freely pro¬ 
duced, and are just the right size for button¬ 
holes. The semi-double flowers, too, last a long 
time in perfection when cut. Like all other 
Geraniums, however, employed as winter bloom¬ 
ers, it should be rested in summer by picking off 
all flowers as they form until September, when, 
in a temperature of from 50° to 56°, a large 
amount of bloom will be produced. For summer 
I consider this Geranium of much value, being 
especially suitable for small beds, as the growth 
is so compact, and the colour of the flower is 
wonderfully brilliant, quite throwing Vesuvius 
into the shade. I fancy that many have been 
disappointed with Guillion Mangilli on account 
of its slow growth and consequent want of 
effectiveness in a young state. Autumn struck 

Digitizes by GO glC 


cuttiDgs are not large enough the following year 
to show the true worth of this variety. It is 
only when the plants get into their second year 
that they display their fioriferous character; 
therefore, in all cases I would counsel the 
employment of two-year-old specimens. For bed¬ 
ding and for conservatory decoration, or for 
winter bloom, they may be used for several years, 
in fact I know of on* large grower who prefers 
to have his plants at least three years old.— 
Byfleet. 

- I have grown the above-named Pelar¬ 
gonium for the last five years, and I have proved 
it to be the best of all the so-called winter 
bloomers. I have nearly all of those named in 
an article signed “C.” in Gardening, Feb.il. 
With me they all make bloom-buds, but they do 
not open them ; they do not seem to be able to 
do so for want of sun or top-heat; but Guillion 
Mangilli never fails to open its buds all the 
winter through. I can always depend upon it for 
bloom. I have two large plants now w ith plenty 
of blooms on them. All the treatment 1 give 
them is when they are near done blooming in 
summer (I mean small plants) I put them in 
larger pots about August, not shaking them out, 
and keeping the house at about 50° through the 
winter.—J. Mavi.k. 

Crocuses In pots. —Although tlie Crocus 
is one of the bulbs that does not submit to rapid 
forcing so as to have it in bloom much before 
its ordinary season, it is nevertheless well worthy 
of pot culture, so as to have it a little in advance 
of the ordinary season, when the weather is 
usually stormy and the blossoms get dashed and 
soiled by heavy storms. I find the Crocus make 
a good effect in 4-inch pots ; about five large 
bulbs will send up at least a dozen blooms,"and 
if potted in separate colours of golden yellow, 
purple, white, and striped, they have a very 
pretty effect for filling plant baskets, window 
boxes,&c. A few pots of Club Mosses or very dwarf 
Ferns, make a good ground work for such dwarf 
bulbs, and give them the appearance of springing 
from verdant turf. The method of culture I 
have found answer well is to procure fine bulbs 
not later than October and pot them at once in 
good soil. Tmf that has got pretty well decayed, 
a little rotten manure, ai.d sand makes a good 
compost. About 1 inch of finely broken pot¬ 
sherds should be put into I be bottom of the pots, 
then the roughest soil, and the finest soil at the 
top; press the bulb- into the soil firmly so that 
they are just covered ; set the pots on a dry 
foundation and cover 1 inch deep in coal ashes. 
They will soon get well rooted and begin to 
grow, and about New Year's Day they will be 
pushing their leaves through the ashes, and must 
be moved to a cool house or frame, for, if put 
into a strong heat, the majority will fail to 
(lower, but in a temperature of from 40° to 50° 
the Crocus will come on readily and flower to 
perfection during February—a month when al¬ 
most any kind of flower is welcome.— James 
Groom, Gotsport . 

9313.— Forced Lilacs.— If it is the white 
Lilac so much in favour now to which you refer, 
we should inform you that it is brought into 
flower in total darkness. Curiously enough, the 
dark kinds are those that come purest when 
forced, the white flowered one being of no use 
for that purpose. The varieties most favoured 
by the Rarisian growers, who have brought the 
production of white Lilac to a high point of per¬ 
fection, are Morley and to a lesser extent 
Charles X. One great point is to thoroughly 
well grow the plants in summer so that they 
form plenty of good buds—plants which have 
been forced requiring to have a season of rest. 
The plants should be taken up in November 
with all their roots, and either potted or laid in 
soil in a dark place,where the temperature ranges 
at 60° or 05°; the flowers will then form gradu¬ 
ally,and will cotneof a most beautiful purewhite. 
—j. C.. Bijflect. 

9287. — Grafting Fuchsias. — “ Delta ” 
asks for information as to the best way to get 
various sorts of Fuchsia united to one stock. I 
have not tried grafting, but I have found inarch¬ 
ing answer well for Fuchsias, and by following 
the same plan I have no doubt that “ Delta ” 
will be equally successful. As soon as the 
young shoots of the present year's growth have 
reached the length of one foot, select the 
strongest ones for inarching, and pinch the 
points ont to arrest growth. Then get yonng 
plants of the kinds it is desired to put on, and 
elevate the pots they are in close to the shoot to 


be operated on ; then, with a very sharp knife, 
cut a portion of the wood away from both stock 
and scion, and bind them firmly together with 
soft bass matting or cotton. If the shoots are 
of nearly the same size, they will unite at both 
edges, and very soon start to grow freely, but if 
the scion is smaller than the stock shoot, see 
that the bark meets on one side evenly, as on 
the union of the inner bark depends a good deal 
of the success of inarching, and as the scion con¬ 
tinues to get nourishment from its own roots 
until fully united to the stock, there is little 
fearof failure if done with strong-growing kinds. 
When young plants have not been available, I 
have taken strong shoots and inarched them in 
the same way, and left the base long enough to 
insert in a small bottle of water, that will keep 
the scion plump and fresh until a union is 
effected. I may add that on a dark Fuchsia 
the lightest sorts should be selected for grafts 
to contrast, and vice rtnn . This is an interest¬ 
ing and by no means common mode of adding 
interest to one's plant bouses.— James Groom, 
Qotpart . 

9359.— Potting Camellias and Aza¬ 
leas. —The best time to re-pot these is just 
after they have done flowering, as they are then 
just starting to make their season's growth, and 
the best soil is doubtless good peat, although I 
have proved that both Camellias and Azaleas 
will grow luxuriantly in fibry turf cut from any 
old pasture, even better than in some kinds of 
peat, especially when they are planted out; for it 
is surprising how vigorously plants that are 
usually considered of delicate growth do grow 
when the roots are allowed to extend at will. 
But in “Telephone’s” case, with small plants 
that require more pot-room, it will be best to 
well soak the ball of roots in tepid water to 
ensure the soil being thoroughly moistened to 
the centre; then pick out the crocks carefully, 
and loosen the soil all round the outside with a 
pointed stick, so as to let the roots at liberty. 
Have clean dry pots, and after putting potsherds 
at the bottom about one inch deep put some of 
the roughest soil over the crocks, and set the 
plant on it, so that the base of the stem is just 
level with the rim of the pot, and fill in all 
round the plant with finely broken up soil, ram¬ 
ming it very firm with a blunt stick, such as a 
stout lath, for both Camellias and Azaleas do 
best in very firmly compressed soil. Give a good 
soaking with water, and set the plants in ahonse 
with a moist growing temperature, syringing 
the plants overhead as soon as the sun begins 
to decline, and shut up with a brisk tempera¬ 
ture; shade from • bright sunshine UDtil well 
rooted and the growth is beginning to get firm, 
when the plants must be inured to more light 
and air, and towards the end of the summer 
they may be set out of doors ; but the plants 
must never be allowed to get dry at the roots, or 
they will be ruined for flowering at least for one 
season.—J. Groom, Gosjxtrt. 

-Just as they start into growth is the best 

time for shifting them, as then they immediately 
lay hold of the new soil. The best fibrous peat, 
with plenty of silver sand in it, is the right com¬ 
post for Azaleas, but a little good turfy loam 
may be added for Camellias. Use the compost 
moist, but not wet, and pot firmly.—J. C., By- 
Jleet . 

9356.— Climbers for cool greenhouse. 

You cannot have anything better for furnishing 
button-hole bouquets than a Niphetos Rose, the 
buds of which are of just the right size and 
shape, and the plant is such a perpetual fiowerer 
as to furnish them all the season through until 
quite late in the autumn. Now is a good time 
to plant, as it will get a long season of growth 
under glass.—J. C. B. 

9352.— Climber for winter bloom.— 

Winter flowering Troyseolums would probably 
answer the purpose best, as they would be grown 
in the open in summer, when the foliage of the 
Vines would be too dense to allow of climbers 
thriving under them, and would not need to be 
brought in the house until September. There 
are various colours, and if the plants are grown 
along so as to come into 8-inch pots by the 
autumn, they will give plenty of bloom from 
November onwards. The old plants are to be 
discarded and youDg ones grown on again in 
spring.—J. C. B. 

9326.— Cockscombs for exhibition.— 

Any good dwarf strain will give fine heads for 
show if well grown. Their production depends 



March 10, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


21 


chiefly upon good culture. Seed should be sown 
at once in a gentle heat, and from the time of 
sowing to the end of June the plants should 
always have warmth and be kept as near the 
glass as possible.—A. D. 


STRIKING CAMELLIAS AND AZALEAS. 
Tiibsk may both be struck from cuttings, al¬ 
though it is a mode of propagation seldom em¬ 
ployed, as their rate of progress is at first slow 
compared with that of grafted specimens. In 
the case of Azaleas, cuttings taken from plants 
that have been forced strike with the greatest 
readiness, and for this purpose Bhould be 
selected when the young growth is about half 
ri [>ened. They may either be put in a close case 
or under bell-glasses; if the former, 4^-inch pots 
are a useful size; if the latter, take of course 
pots to suit the glasses. The pots must be clean 
and filled to within 2 inches of the top with 
broken crocks, rough at the bottom and tine to¬ 
wards the top; then fill up nearly to the level 
of the rim with sandy peat, sifted fine and 
pressed down firmly; finally put a layer of silver 
sand on the top, bringing it up to the level. The 


frame, in which they will callus, and when re¬ 
moved into a little heat will soon root. I have 
often struck them by putting them at once in 
the temperature of an intermediate house, but 
so treated careful attention is necessary. 

_ n. r. 

A GARDEN OF IIARDV FLOWERS. 
Such a charming garden as the one depicted in 
our illustration is a rare exception to the ordinary 
run of gardens, and teaches much as regards the 
way in which a garden may be made enjoyable 
even by simple means. To the lover of hardy 
plants it abounds with interest, for they are 
everywhere. Even the trim little lawn, about 
the only flowerless spot in the garden in summer, 
is lit up in the early days of spring with myriads 
of gay coloured Crocuses, which push their way 
through the turf, flower, grow, and decay before 
the mowing machine is required. This garden 
lies within an easy distance of London, but far 
beyond the reach of its smoke or even the rattle 
of the railway train. It is surrounded by some 
of the choicest bits of Hertfordshire scenery, 
richly wooded, and diversified by hill and dale. 
The pretty cottage shown in the accompanying 


garden, to which are relegated all such plants as 
arc apt to encroach upon their weaker neigh¬ 
bours, such, for instance, as the wide spreading 
Polygonum cuspidatum, P. Nieboldi, the big Cow 
Parsnip (Heracleum), and others. At no season 
of the year is a garden like this without flowers; 
in spring, summer, and autumn they are in 
abundance; even in the depth of winter and in 
the earliest of spring days Christmas Roses, 
winter Aconites, Snowdrops, Meadow Saffron, 
Snowflakes,and other plants bestrew the borders, 
while among shrubs many are winter or early 
flowerere. With regard to soil, Mr. Kingsmill 
(the proprietor) has to contend with one that is 
not the best for a general collection of hard)' 
plants, being a stiff, clayey loam, apt to become 
somewhat waterlogged during winter and in 
rainy seasons. Some things, however, such as 
Delphiniums, Columbines, Poppies, and the 
larger types of perennials, do uncommonly well 
in it. Free use is made of Cocoanut fibre refuse 
as a surface mulching, and the majority of the 
plants seem to enjoy it; each digging tends to 
incorporate it with the stiff soil, and so in 
course of time will make it lighter. Most of the 
beds, too, are raised considerably above the 



beBt time to take the cuttings is just as the young 
growth commences to get woody; if taken too 
succulent they damp off, and if delayed too long 
the emission of roots is a slow process. From 3 
inches to 4 inches is a very suitable length for 
the cuttings, and of this an inch at the base must 
have the leaves removed for the purpose of in¬ 
sertion. Put them in firmly and not too thickly; 
this done, place them in a temperature of from 
60° to 70°, in which they will soon root. When 
first watered, and indeed whenever that opera¬ 
tion is performed, leave off the glasses for a little 
time to allow the foliage to dry, but not long 
enough to cause the cuttings to flag. If the cut¬ 
tings are taken from plants that have not been 
forced, the same process must be followed, but 
of course it will be later in the season before 
they are ready. If placed in a dry heat they 
become infested with thrips, which will greatly 
retard the rooting. For Camellias prepare the 
pots as for Azaleas, but let the soil consist of 
equal parts of peat, loam, and sand, and make 
tbs cuttings also of the half ripened wood, 
with, if possible, a slight heel of harder growth. 
When put in, which will be towards the end 
of the summer, they may fee placed in a.close 


Digiti; 


ay be placed in a dost 

Gck >gle 


illustration is embowered in greenery on all 
sides. One wall is almost entirely covered with 
a fine plant of Hedera Rcegneriana, one of the 
very handsomest of all Ivies, having bold, heart- 
shaped leaves of the brightest emerald green. 
Part of the south front of the cottage is covered 
with Clematis montana, which will presently be 
profusely covered with snowy blossoms. A fine | 
Gloire de Dijon Rose and a Wistaria are doing 
their best to clothe the west side, while in front 
the walls are covered entirely with Garrya 
elliptica (which in autumn is profusely orna¬ 
mented with its long graceful catkins), an early 
flowering Clematis, and a fine variegated Honey¬ 
suckle, while an isolated building is completely 
embowered with the common Honeysuckle. 
Another Honeysuckle, by the way, is worthy of 
note; it is the North American Trumpet Honey¬ 
suckle (Lonicera sempervirens), which one sel¬ 
dom sees outside a greenhouse, but which here 
flowers beautifully against the cottage, the 
scarlet clusters of blossoms being very pretty. 

In this little garden may be found a little of 
everything. It has its rockeries, artificial bogs, 
aquatic pond, frames and pits for half-barfly 
plants, and last, but not least, its little wild 


general level, and have sharply sloping fronts, so 
as to throw off water. 

A profitable lesson may be taken from this 
little garden by those who are ever complaining 
of weeds; here there is no room for them to 
grow, for every border is so carpeted with low 
growing plants that weeds have no chance to 
get a start. That this plan of surfacing the 
ground entirely with low spreading plants is tie 
best way cannot be doubted, though there are 
some who contend that no individuality is given 
to the plants when surrounded closely by other 
things. Such is not the case, however, if the 
system is carried out properly, for with care 
each plant may be arranged so as to tell its own 
tale, as it were, and yet be closely carpeted with 
a variety of ground plants. 

Some bold and good effects are obtained by 
grouping the large types of plants so that they 
make a harmonious whole; as, for instance, 
perennial and annual Sunflowers and single 
Dahlias, a striking mixture. Another fine group 
is formed by a row of tall-growing Delphiniums 
(huge clumps of the finest sorts) in front of 
Clematises and Roses, which festoon horizontal 
chains attached to tall posts, 10 or 12 feet apart. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






























22 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 10, 1883. 


The early summer trees and shrubs, of which 
there is a good collection of the more uncommon 
types, have a beautiful aspect. The various 
kinds of Thorns and Laburnums are in flower. 

The white Broom and a sulphur-coloured 
Cytisus with flowers as large as those of the 
common Broom are very fine, as is also a large 
rounded bush of Genista hispanica, which pro¬ 
duces literally a mass of golden flowers. The 
beautiful Austrian Brier, whose flowers are 
among the loveliest yellows we have, is one of 
the shrubs one cannot pass ; the double variety 
of it is not so fine, the colour being paler, and the 
form spoilt by the semi-duplication. Roses arc 
pegged down and make effective beds. Amongst 
Aquilegias the lovely A. coerulea apparently 
seeds itself, for it is everywhere about the 
borders, and charming the delicate hued and 
graceful flowers look. The scarlet A. canadensis 
makes a good show, and contrasts charmingly 
with the clear yellow of A. chrysantha. These 
Columbines everybody should try to have in 
their gardens, as they are so different and so 
much handsomer in colour than the varieties of 
the common A. vulgaris. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 


Extract* from a Garden Diary — March 12 
to March 17. 

Sprinkling with artificial manure, cultivating, and 
drilling south border for Potatoes. Propagating Verbenas 
and Ageratums. Sowing Lobelias and Schizanthuses. 
Earthing up Potatoes in frames. Sowing east border 
witli Student Parsnip and James's Intermediate Carrot. 
Planting south border with Alpha, King of the Earlies, 
and Early Umnsworth Potatoes. Plauting first batch of 
Melons. Tying Tomatoes in fruiting pit. Tying Cucum¬ 
bers. Potting Ferns. Sowing first batch of Turnips 
between Rhubarb. Sowing first batch of Celery. Hoeing 
and cleaning Asparagus beds. Sowing Pyrethrums. 
Thinning Mignonette in pots. Sowing Begonia seeds. 
Staking and tying Roses. Propagating Begonias. Plant¬ 
ing Potatoes. Pruning and nailing Pears and Morello 
Cherries. Getting Rosea, Deuizias, &c., that have been 
forced from cold houses to the open air. Potting 
Gloxinias, Calanthes, and Calceolarias. Staking Pyramid 
Apples ; also first crop of Pens outside. Clearing ground 
of Brussels Sprouts, <fec. Sow ing Poinsettia seed and a 
pan of Lavender. Clearing off and cultivating ground 
for Potatoes. Planting International Kidney Potatoes. 
Pruning and nailing Cherries and Figs on east wall. 
Getting half-hardy plants out of span-roofed house. 

Glasshouses. 

In the houses and frames there is now much 
requiring to be done. All kinds of roots and 
tubers ought to be started into growth. Cannas 
are quickly increased by cutting up the roots 
into single eyes, and starting them in small pots 
in warmth. Part the roots of herbaceous 
Lobelias, and plant them out in frames having 
a temperature of 50°. Dahlias may be planted 
in the same way, but require greater heat if 
intended to produce cuttings. Those started a 
month ago will now afford cuttings, which strike 
quickly in a bottom-heat of 75°. The stronger 
the cuttings the longer are they in forming 
roots, and as they make no better plants than 
smaller ones, it is not therefore necessary to 
delay propagation in order to get strong shoots. 
Tuberous Begonias are gradually growing in 
favour for summer bedding; we tried a few last 
year, and they withstood the rain far better than 
Pelargoniums. Any tubers that are to be used 
for planting out should now be potted, and be 
allowed to start into growth slowly. A tempera¬ 
ture of 45° or 50° is ample. Begonia castanerc- 
folia, a first-rate summer bedder, must be 
increased by means of cuttings. Begonia 
Weltoniensis also makes a fine bed, and this 
variety is most expeditiously propagated by 
division of the roots. Seedling sub-tropicals 
should be potted off before the roots get matted 
together in the seed-pans, and seeds of the quick 
growing kinds, such as Tobacco, Castor-oil, Sun¬ 
flower, Hemp, Maize, and Chilian Beet, should 
now be sown. In order to make room for slow 
growing and less hardy kinds. Lobelias, Verbenas, 
Ageratums, and Mesembryanthemums may now 
be planted out in cold frames. The soil should 
consist of loam and leaf-mould in equal pro¬ 
portions. They will then lift with plenty of 
roots at bedding-out time. Alternantlieras may 
now be planted out in manure frames, and a 
fortnight hence cuttings in abundance may be 
bad, which, if inserted after the manner of the 
old plants in frames, will give but little trouble, 
except as to airing, till they are required for 
the beds. Fine-foliaged Pelargoniums must 
still be kept in warmth, but the common and 
hardier varieties may be transferred to cold pits. 

Digitized by GOOgle 


Cuttings of the same struck during the winter 
will now be ready for potting off, and till re¬ 
established in the pots should be kept close and 
warm. 

Propagating. —No more suitable time could 
be chosen for cutting back and striking Croton6 
than the present. When the cuttings are taken 
off insert them as quickly as possible, removing 
no more leaves than is absolutely necessary; 
take some clean 2£-inch pots, put a few crocks 
in the bottom, and fill up moderately firm with 
soil consisting of loam, peat, and sand in equal 
parts. After insert ion give them a good watering 
and keep them close, when they will soon root. 
Nepenthes may also be struck without difficulty, 
especially in spring, and by this means short, 
sturdy, fully developed plants may be secured. 
The soil in which they root best is fibrous peat 
and Sphagnum, cut up moderately fine, with a 
liberal admixture of sand. Take the cuttings, 
not necessarily at a joint, and insert them in 
small well drained pots in the compost just 
named ; after this water them, and then place 
them in a close case or under a handlight in the 
stove, if possible, where there is come bottom- 
heat. Take care to keep them close and shaded 
from bright sunshine till rooted, and on no 
account allow them to become dry, as a moist, 
steamy atmosphere .hastens the formation of 
roots. 

Tree Carnations that have been flowering 
during the winter will, from the warmth received 
during that time, have made good young growth 
suitable for cutting, and if put in now will make 
fine flowering plants by winter. A suitable soil 
for them is equal parts loam and leaf mould, 
with a good sprinkling of sand, the whole being 
well mixed together and sifted moderately fine. 
Let the cuttings be of as recent growth as 
possible. Remove the two bottom leaves, and 
shorten the others if they are of an unwieldy 
length, then insert them four or five around the 
edges of a 4-inch pot, and place them in a gentle 
hotbed. In this way they will soon root, when 
they must be hardened off and potted singly in 
small pots. 

Cyperus alternifolius is frequently in¬ 
creased by division and treated as a stove plant, 
while if raised from seed now and grown on in a 
cool temperature till autumn the produce would 
be stout healthy plants, well calculated to resist 
the various changes of temperature to which, 
when used for indoor decoration, it is exposed. 
In order to obtain seed two or three old plants 
should be potted in large pots and allowed to 
flower, when seed in abundance will be the re¬ 
sult. It Bbould be sown as soon as possible 
after it is gathered, for if kept long it germinates 
much more slowly and irregularly. Before sowing 
give the pots intended to receive it a good 
watering, then sow on the surface, and afterwards 
sprinkle a lit tle dry sand over the seeds. Place a 
pane of glass over the pot, and set it in the stove 
till germination takes place, which will not be 
long if the seed is fresh, and when that takes 
place remove the glass at once. The variegated 
form can only be increased by division, for which 
the present is a suitable time. In preparing pots 
for all kinds of soft-wooded cuttings do not 
press the soil too firmly, as that retards rooting. 
This remark only applies to soft-wooded subjects 
such as Fuchsias, Heliotropes, Verbenas, &c. All 
firm-wooded plants, such as Heaths, Camellias. 
Rhododendrons, and Conifene, require the soil 
to be made as firm as possible.—T. 

Flowers and Plante in Rooms. 

Arrangements of white flowers with substan¬ 
tial green foliage are always satisfactory. The 
broad glossy leaves of Japan Privet suit all 
white flowers and last long. A capacious glass 
bowl holds large twigs of this useful shrub, with 
white Hyacinths, white Narcissus, and Lily of 
the Valley; some fronds of the dark shining 
Cyrtomium falcatum stand well up among the 
taller flowers. Agreeably contrasting with the 
solid white and dark green of this bouquet is 
another, also white and green, but made of 
Spiraea japonica, Deutzia, and long sprays of 
Spiraea Thunbergi, now in flow’er in the open air, 
with foliage of sweet Geranium Prince of Orange 
and Maidenhair Fern put together with a light 
hand ; the Fern is cut from a cool house and 
immersed in water for some hours before being 
used. A wide bowl is filled with red-tinted 
foliage of Berberis Aquifolium and broad-leaved 
Saxifrage; groups of yellow flowers are worked 


into this foundation, yellow Tulips, Jonquils, 
and pale yellow Hyacinths, with some rather 
long shoots of yellow Jasmine; the Tulips are 
without leaves, their glaucous colour not being 
suitable with the dark warm-coloured foliage. 
In a large antique tumbler of engraved glass a 
few Iris reticulata are grouped with young shoots 
of the large variegated Periwinkle; these fresh 
green leaves with their broad markings of ivory 
white well setoff the splendid purple of the Iris 
flowers. Deep dishes set in sunny windows 
hold masses of Crocus that open wide in bright 
weather. The dishes are first filled with small- 
leaved hedgerow Ivy, and the Crocuses worked 
in in bold groups. One dish has red and brown- 
tinted Ivy and yellow flowers; in the other the 
Ivy is greeD, veined with white, and the flowers 
are purple, lilac, and white, the colours grouped 
rather than mixed. Varieties of Azalea mollis, 
forced, are now useful house plants. 

Flower Garden. 

Ornamental grasses.— Though seldom 
used in that way, some of the ornamental grasses 
produce the most pleasing effects when asso¬ 
ciated with herbaceous perennials, and amongst 
them none are better for the purpose than the 
two varieties just named. Their habit is erect, 
yet graceful, growing as they do from 15 inches 
to 18 inches in height; the spikes of flower are 
about 3 inches long and purplish green in colour. 
The constant nodding of the florets, even in the 
calmest weather, is delightful, and it is owiDgto 
this characteristic that they are usually called 
Quaking Grasses. Their culture is of the simplest 
kind ; they are not particular as to soil, and are 
readily increased by division or seeds ; seedlings 
are best. Sow the first week in April where the 
plants are to grow permanently, and thin out the 
seedlings as soon as they can be handled to 6 
inches apart. The flowers are valuable, in a dry 
state, for table decoration and vases in winter. 
If only for this purpose they are worthy of 
cultivation, but doubtless their most appropriate 
positions are as occasional “dot ” plants in large 
borders of herbaceous plants, and as large masses 
by the sides of woodland walks and drives. 

Preparing flower beds— That flower 
beds may be afforded the necessary cultivation 
preparatory to the summer planting, it is now 
time that the shrubs and other hardy plants with 
which they have been filled in winter should be 
transferred to their summer quarters. If planted 
later than this the probability is they might 
suffer from drought ere the plants had got estab¬ 
lished in the soil, but to guard against the 
possibility of such a check, it is our invariable 
practice to mulch with bracken as soon as they 
are in their places, and for neatness sake the 
mulching is removed after there has been a 
long spell of showery weather to start the roots 
into active growth. Small plants of some few 
kinds of shrubs we use in summer as “dot” 
plants in foliage beds, and these, as a matter of 
course, when they can be made to fit in with the 
summer arrangements, are not transplanted at 
all. In order to better illustrate what I mean, I 
may say that w T e have here a border consisting of 
oblong panels and circles alternately. In winter 
the oblong panels have had as a centre small 
bushy plants of Retinospora pisifera aurea, and 
the circles, small plants of Cupressus Lawsoniana 
erecta viridis. The winter groundwork of the 
oblongs was Heather, and that of the circles 
Sedum glaucum. All these shrubs will remain 
for the summer; the ground-work for the Reti- 
nosporaswill either be Alternantheras or Ajuga 
reptans purpurea, and that for circles, Mesem- 
bryanthemum cordifolium variegatum. By thus 
endeavouring to retain all the plants possible 
that have done duty during winter, Dot only is the 
work lessened both as to labour of planting and 
propagation, but an effectiveand uncommon sum¬ 
mer bedding arrangement is ensured. Beds that 
are vacant should be deeply dug, and manured or 
not according to the requirements of the plants 
to be used; all fine-foliaged plants require 
abundance of manure, but the ordinary kinds 
of bedding plants need but little. When the 
beds are on Grass, the best arrangement, the 
soil should stand well above the turf and be edged 
with some kind of dwarf, close-growing, hardy 
plant. The best for this purpose that has yet 
come under my notice is Hemiaria glabra ; all 
our beds are edged with it, and they always 
look neat, and give but little trouble to keep 
them in order. About thrice during the summer 


March 10, 1883,] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


23 


they need trimming with sheep-shears. Box 
does not look half so neat, and certainly needs 
more keeping in order. 

Herbaceous plants.— Borders of these 
are already beginning to look gay with Crocuses, 
Hepaticas, Scillas,and Primroses. All the kinds 
are now above ground, and gaps can therefore 
be perceived and be tilled up either by dividing 
some of the old stools or by fresh importations, 
or indeed by sewing patches of hardy annuals. 
Trim off all decayed stems, clear away mulchings, 
and where it is not practicable from fear of 
injury to the plants to digin well decayed stable 
manure, give a dressing of guano or of soot and 
wood ashes, and then surface fork the entire 
border. Fresh labels should be substituted for all 
that are becoming illegible, and especially 
should they be fixed to the less known kinds of 
plants, in order that all who are interested in 
them may the more readily become conversant 
with their names.—W. 

Market Fruit Garden. 
Planting 1 may now be considered to be 
finished. Stocks intended for grafting are headed 
down in readiness for that operation, and younger 
stock is planted out in nursery lines. Grafts, if 
not already secured, should be cut immediately, 
as the sap will now be moving in nearly all kinds, 
and they are best cut in as dormant a condition 
as possible. Young bush fruits, such as Goose¬ 
berries, Currants, and Nuts, not required for 
forming new plantations, should be lifted and 
cut in quite close and replanted about 1J feet 
apart, so as to make useful little bushes for 
another season. Cuttings collected and laid in 
by the heels during the pruning season must 
now be prepared and planted in lines. Suckers 
of the Farleigh Prolific Damson, a kind that re¬ 
produces ilself true in that manner, are collected 
and planted in rows to gain strength for forming 
standard or half-standard trees, the latter being 
preferred, except in positions where cattle would 
destroy the branches; for, if required, a half¬ 
standard can be readily converted into a full 
standard by cutting away the lowest tiers of 
branches by degrees ; the stem, too, needs less 
supporting by means of stakes than that of 
standards, and it increases in diameter much 
more rapidly when the lower branches are left 
on for a few years than when they are trimmed 
at once. If not already done, all freshly planted 
trees should have a covering of partially rotted 
manure spread over their roots before drying 
spring winds affect them. 

The pruning of Nuts of all kinds may 
now be completed, for the catkins are fully in 
liower, and the abundance of little red-tipped 
female blossoms give promise of a good crop. 
All useless wood is cut away and only fruitful 
spray reserved. The Nut crop is so valuable 
that special care is taken not only in forming 
the bushes by careful pruning, but also in 
manuring them—a favourite application being 
the refuse from skin and hair factories, such as 
the dressings from hare and rabbit skins, old 
rags, &c. This is lightly forked in around 
the bushes, which, being surface-rooters, are 
found to depend more for fruitfulness on their 
active roots close to the surface than those that 
penetrate deeper. This is a good time to give 
both trees and hushes a good dusting of freshly- 
slaked lime, which answers the double purpose 
of killing Moss and Lichen and making the 
buds distasteful to birds; when washed off, too, 
it acts as a stimulant to the surface roots. It 
should be put on in damp, still weather, so that 
it may stick to the trees and get dried on before 
heavy rains occur. 

The protection of fruit in the wav 

usually practised in gardens is not possible on 
a large scale in market grounds; nevertheless, 
owners of such grounds are fully alive to the 
importance of shelter, and I find many are now 
planting rows of Poplars and other quick, erect- 
growing trees quite thickly, so that they may run 
up and form a barrier to break cold currents 
from exposed quarters. Thorn or Quick hedges 
may also be allowed to run up, keeping them 
cat in narrow both at base and top, as it is sur¬ 
prising the amount of shelter which a hedge 
will afford. Preparation must also be made 
for the comiDg fruit season by looking over the 
stock of baskets, ladders, &c., and replacing any 
deficiency before the busy season arrives. A 
good supply of packing wood must be cut and 
stored in some dry place. I<png rods of Ash, 

Digitized by GOOgle 


Hazel, or Chestnut are generally used ; they are 
preparedin wet weather by cutting them in lengths 
to suit sieves or half-sieves, and split up to the 
size required. If kept dry until a few days 
before they are wanted and then soaked in 
water, they will be found to be as tough as wire, 
and will withstand the rough usuage to which 
the baskets are subjected in travelling to market, 
while green wood would fail. J. G. 

Vegetables. 

The main crop of Brussels Sprouts, Snow's 
Broccoli, and lied Cabbage, the latter for cutting 
late, should now be sown on a slight hotbed 
under glass; also Veitch’s Autumn and Self-pro¬ 
tecting Broccoli, with a pinch of l'aris Cos 
Lettuce. Still I always find in spring-sown 
Lettuce the few seeds sprinkled on the top of 
the Onion quarter the earliest. Onions and 
Carrot had better wait for ten days; when sown 
early the sharp spring winds turn them yellow, 
and I have had on two occasions to resow Onions. 
Parsnips may now be sown with advantage. We 
aro busily employed turning up every inch of 
ground which we possess, thus bringing all under 
crop at the proper season. Now is a good time 
to make plantations of Globe Artichokes. On 
taking up the old stools we found in one case 
many dead or crippled ; we pulled away the young 
suckers and planted them in burnt refuse, a 
capital thing for many purposes; whenever 1 
sow small seeds, outside or in, I always cover 
them with this material. Early frame Potatoes, 
Radishes, Carrots and young plants generally 
should be duly aired. Prick off early Celery in 
small boxes for early work, and get manure well 
worked to make the bed which the main crop 
of Celery will occupy. I sow from March 10 to 
March 1-1. Tomatoes may soon be sown ; grow 
them on until they worthily occupy 6-inch pots, 
when they will be 3 feet high in May, and begin 
to flower and fruit at once. Little plants put 
out in May grow up to September before setting 
or ripening i heir fruit. French Beans must be 
attended to in accordance with the demand (as 
a market crop they are ruinous). This fine open 
weather gives us an opportunity of getting all 
walks free from weeds, thus making all clean 
and tidy. 

Cucumbers— To maintain the supply 
through March and Ajril, old plants which have 
been in bearing all the winter will take liberal 
supplies of warm liquid to keep them going, for 
if once allowed to receive a check, early spring- 
sown plants will commence fruiting before they 
can recover and be of further use. By this time 
the plants will have replaced the old foliage 
with young growths, which must be neatly tied 
down and stopped at the first joint beyond tlie 
fruit when it becomes evident that the founda¬ 
tion of a complete covering has been laid. If 
spider has gained a lodgment, this dull weather 
will favour its destruction by the use of in¬ 
secticides or regular syringing with clean, soft 
water, light cropping, and high feeding with 
good liquid from the tank and guano water alter¬ 
nately. Sprinkle all available surfaces with the 
same, top-dress the roots with pure loam and old 
lime rubble in preference to manure, which en¬ 
courages worms and leads to ultimate failure. 
Aim at a steady bottom-heat of 85° from pipes 
and fermenting material combined. Let 70° be 
the standard at night, and 85° by day. Give air 
at 78°, and close early with atmospheric moisture, 
but avoid wetting the pipes when they are hot 
enough to generate scalding steam. Spring 
plants are now making good progress, and their 
clean, healthy growth is always pleasant to look 
upon. If planted upon hills, avoid producing a 
too vigorous flash of vine by feeding or the nse 
of manure, as the time is at hand when stimu¬ 
lants will be needed. Train regularly without 
crowding, and defer stopping until quite two- 
thirds of the allotted space is covered. Keep the 
glass well washed inside and out. Let the night 
heat stand at about 68°, give air at 76°, and close 
with plenty of solar beat in preference to having 
recourse to sharp firing. Earth up plants in 
frames, renovate the linings back and front 
alternately to prevent checks, and aim at the 
heat recommended for spring plants in houses. 
Always keep a supply of warm, dry compost and 
plenty of fermenting material on hand. Cover 
at night with dry mats and give a little air to 
prevent the accumulation of injurious gases. 


Vol. I. " Gardening ’’ ii out of print, and we are 
therefore unable to further supply either separate ooplei 
or bound voluinei. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

With the advent of March it becomes necessary 
to commence to bring most subjects forward, or 
they do not attain sufficient strength to make a 
satisfactory display through the summer months. 

The planting of treeB and shrubs 
may now be commenced in most situations in 
town, except where very smoky, in which case it 
would probably be better to defer the work for 
a month or so. The best evergreen by far for 
town air is the Euonymus; of this there are 
now many varieties, but the plain or green 
broad-leaved form is more free and vigorous in 
growth than any of the variegated kinds, though 
all may be planted, in most places, with a fair 
chance of snccess. Aucubas, Rhododendrons, 
Arbutus and Privets come next in the order of 
usefulness; Hollies may do in some places, but 
it is of no use to plant Laurels where the air is 
at all smoky. Ivy grows well in all town gardens, 
though it is often a long time making a start. 
Of deciduous shrubs, the Ribes or flowering 
currant is the best all round town subject. Next 
may be taken Lilacs, Sumach, Syringas, ami 
others. 

Herbaceous borders.— During this and 
the next month herbaceous and other border 
plants should be put in their places. Among the 
best of these may be mentioned Delphiniums, 
Hollyhocks, early flowering Chrysanthemums, 
Phlox (perennials), Pyrethrum, Michaelmas 
Daisies, Lupins, Veronicas (hcrbaceons), and 
Centranthus of varieties. Pentstemons are very 
beautiful, but reed purer air than those men¬ 
tioned above, to do well. If no 

Hotbed has yet been made up, if it can 
possibly be done, by all means lose no time in 
throwing up a nice heap of well sweetened 
manure, mixed with a moderate quantity of 
leaves, spent hops, or tan. When ready this may 
be filled with pots or pans of Cannas, Iticinns, 
Amarantus, and other similar showy things j 
also sow a little Gloxinia, Begonia, and Primula 
seed, if these can be grown; Thunbergias, Cobseas, 
Lophospermums, Maurandyas, and Ipomceas arc 
all useful climbers; these will germinate best 
in the frame. It is not, however, of much use 
to sow any Cinerarias so early, they do not, as 
a rule, bloom at all well in town till early spring, 
so are better left till July or August. Cuttings 
of Fuchsias, Petunias, etc., may be struck in tho 
same frame if there is no other place. 

Greenhouse.— In the greenhouse look well 
to the advancing stock, assist Zonal Pelar¬ 
goniums, Cinerarias, and other spring-flowering 
plants with a liberal supply of water on bright 
days; give air moderately as often as safe, and 
keep up a moist growing atmosphere by the 
judicious use of the syringe whenever necessary. 
Plants never thrive in a dry parching tempera¬ 
ture. If east wind sets in, attention to this 
point will be more than ever necessary. A do.-e 
of liquid manure twice a week will greatly help 
all plants coming into flower ; guano is as good 
as anything, and is, betides, very clean and 
handy. 

Plants in rooms must still be kept clean, 
and if in flower, abundantly supplied with 
water. Dielytra spectabilis makes a beautiful 
object in a pot, and may bo grown well in any 
dwelling room. Pot strong roots at once in 
6-inch or 7-inch pots, keep them dry till they 
begin to grow freely, then water and feed with 
liquid manure till the flowers expand. B. C. It. 


ROSES. 


OWN-ROOT ROSES. 

9203.—If “ H. M.” wishes to have fine healthy 
Rose bashes on their own roots he must be con¬ 
tent to wait longer than a year for them. Own- 
root Roses as sent out from nurseries are small 
plants in pots coDsisting of only one or two small 
shoots, mere baby Roses in fact, which will take 
three years before they begin to form good 
bushes even with the best cultivation. During 
that period they should not be pruned, but weak 
or unhealthy wood should be thinned ont. Old- 
fashioned RoFes were almost all summer 
bloomers, and although they bloomed profusely, 
they bloomed but once, and that is tho reason 
why they have been superseded by the more 
modem families of Roses which bloom twice or 
three times a year. Few of these modern Roses 
have the very sweet, perfume of the old kinds, 
although many of them are nicely scented. 



24 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[MaUch 10, 1883. 


If “H. M.” will get the following selection on 
seedling Brier or Manetti (the stock is best left to 
the nurseryman, as some kinds do best on one stock 1 
some on others), he will have no reason to be 
dissatisfied with his choice. The names are from 
light to dark: Ducher (China), Souvenir de la 
Malinaison (Bourbon), Homer (Tea), Gloire de 
Dijon (Tea), Baronne Prevost, La France, Com- 
tease de Serenye, Victor Verdier, John Hopper, ' 
Alfred Colomb, Duke of Connaught, and Prince 
Camille de Rohan, all Hybrid Perpetuals. Own- 
root Roses can be made from these by means of ! 
layers or cuttings. If “ H. M.” wishes to make : 
the acquaintance of the old-fashioned Roses, he | 
should arrange a sunny nook for them in some 
out-of-the-way corner where they need not be 
visited when out of bloom, or a few borders or 
beds in the kitchen garden will do. If that 
cannot be arranged for, they may be planted 
where they can be comparatively hidden by 
Dahlias, Phloxes,and other late-flowering plants, 
or behind rows of Teas and Bourbons. Of old- 
fashioned Roses, the Austrian Roses Harrisoni 
and Persian l'ellow are very distinct and good ; 
they are very bright in colour and profuse in 
bloom. As own-root Roses they arc best allowed 
to scramble over a trellis, but are usually grown 
as weeping standards with the shoots tied down. 
They are as difficult to handle as a hedgehog. 
The Provence Roses everyone knows. The com¬ 
mon Cabbage, the white Cabbage, and the Moss 
Roses are all very fragrant, and worthy of a 
place in every garden. 

Perhaps the most satisfactory bush Roses are 
the albas. The old white forms a nice bush 5 feet 
or 6 feet high, with crinkled foliage and sweet- 
scented pure white flowers; it forms a dense, 
handsome shrub. The Maiden’s Blush is similar, 
but with blush flowers, and not so tall. Other 
good Roses of the family are Madame Audot, 
Madame Lepras, and Diademe de Flora. The 
Damask Roses are similar, but not quite such 
bushy plants. La Ville de Bruxelles, Madame 
Hardy and Madame Zoutmans are good repre¬ 
sentatives. The Gallica Roses are wholly super¬ 
seded by the Perpetuals. Of Hybrid summer- 
flowering Roses, one of the best is Madame 
Plan tier, a pure white Rose, blooming profusely 
and very sweet scented. Coupe de Hebe is a 
beautiful pink Rose but scentless. 

If “ H. M.” is willing to wait for his own-root 
Roses, the following will suit him : Gloire de 
Dijon, Homer, Souvenir de la Malmaisou, 
Ducher, common China, Comtesse Adele de 
Murinais, La Reine, Baron Prevost, John 
Hopper, Charles Lefebvre, Alfred Colomb, 
General Jacqueminot. Whether these Roses 
will do at the seaside I cannot say. Several lists 
of Roses for the seaside have appeared in former 
numbers of Gardening. September is the best 
time to plant own-root Roses. J. D. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

9357.— Woodlice in frames.— Woodlice 
can be poisoned like cockroaches, or trapped 
like earwigs, or in the following manner : A 
bucket of water is in most cases necessary to put 
them in when the traps are emptied. Cook par¬ 
snips or beetroot in a solution of arsenic, and 
place in the haunts of the woodlice. They will 
eat greedily, and soon be all killed. Or, fill some 
10*inch pots with half dry horse manure, and 
lay where the insects congregate. Once in a week 
turn the manure into the fire, and put fresh 
into the pots. If this is persisted in, a riddance 
will soon be made. Or, into some small pots put 
cold boiled Potatoes, and cover with Moss. 
Examine night and morning, and transfer the 
woodlice to a bucket of hot water. The Pota¬ 
toes will last for some time, and the traps are 
about the best for the purpose. Wherever toads 
and tomtits can be induced to stay in the 
houses, or robins build nests, woodlice soon be¬ 
come scarce, and, therefore, both toads and 
robins should be encouraged, for, if taken 
early enough, woodlice never become very in¬ 
jurious.— Celer et Audax. 

9316.— Last years seeds.— There is so 
much risk in sowing old seeds in the open 
ground, especially when the ground is wet and 
cold and gives _ no help to germination, that it is 
better to test samples of all the kinds first under 
glass by sowing 100 seeds of each kind in pots, 
and placing these in a greenhouse. When the 
seedlings are well up those growing may be 

Digitized by GOOgle 


counted, and the growth in the open ground may 
be estimated accordingly. It must, however, be 
I remembered that seeds under glass are in very 
favourable conditions as compared with those 
sown in the open ground, and a deduction of 20 j 
per cent, from those germinating should be 
made ; so that, if 80 out of 100 seeds grew, the 
fair estimate would be that from 50 to 60 seeds 
in the 100 would grow in the open ground. If 
sown in the garden without testing, the seed 
should be twice as thick as is customary to en¬ 
sure a good plant of the various kinds.—A. D. 

9151.— Insects in greenhouse.— Acting 
on the advice of a correspondent in Gardening, 
I purchased in Liverpool two little waxbills, 
and two love birds (no avadavats in stock) to 
destroy insects in my conservatory. It may be 
of some service if I record the result. Knowing 
the birds to be tropical species 1 took ever}' care 
about keeping them warm ; the house was 58° to 
70°. The day after T got them one of the wax- 
bills died, the day following the other three died. 
Evidently the poor little things were diseased 
when I got them, and no wonder, as they had 
very little room,and large quantities of them were 
stowed away in what resembled a set of shelves, 
with wire only at the front. I do not feel dis¬ 
posed to try foreign birds again. Are there no 
British birds that would answer the purpose 1 I 
paid 15s. for the birds.—W. N. B. 

9315.— Chrysanthemums. —The loss of 
leafage on the stems of Chrysanthemums in the 
open ground is no doubt due chiefly to the 
starved condition of the roots. Old stools or 
roots of Chrysanthemums should never be kept. 
The young shoots that are so abundant in the 
roots just now will strike freely if put into pans 
or pots as cuttings and into a frame, and then 
when well rooted planted out into the ground. 
These get full of robust foliage and make fine 
blooming plants, far better indeed than old 
stools can make. Such plants need no pinching. 
They will be neither too drawn nor too early 
to flower; on the other hand, the flowers are 
much finer, and if the plants be lifted with balls 
of soil and be put under glass, will carry good 
blooms up to Christmas.—D. 

9361.— Tobacco for] fumigating— The 

making of Tobacco paper and cloth is a process 
known to the respective manufacturers, who 
have various modes and employ divers mate¬ 
rials, but of course the chief element is satura¬ 
tion in a strong solution of Tobacco, then dried. 
The home-grown Tobacco leaves, though making 
when carefully and slowly dried very fair fumi¬ 
gating material, yet falls below the best manu¬ 
factured paper or cloth, because the Tobacco 
lacks that high percentage of nicotine found in 
the imported article. The leaves should be 
dried and burnt as needed, but to make paper 
or cloth by their means would be waste of labour. 
—D. 

9081.— Frozen Potatoes.— It is well 
known that if you put the frozen Potatoes into a 
bucket of cold water, and place the bucket in 
the kitchen, not too near the fire, and change 
the water every day for a week or ten days, the 
Potatoes will then be fit to cook, and will have 
entirely lost the sweet flavour that frostbite 
gives them.—H. S. 

9319.— Abutilons growing lanky.— 

Prune them back at once to within 1 foot, or in 
the case of small specimens G inches of the soil. 
Water carefully until they come well into 
growth, then shake away as much of the old 
soil as possible without injuring the roots, and 
replace in a clean pot, shifting- later on and 
growing all thesummer in the open air.—J.C. B. 


Back numbers of “Gardening.”—3/. L. E. T., 
Norwood .—All the numbers named can bo BUpplied from 
our office, price ljd. each, post free. 

Sunflowers .—George Bimjcss.—Awy seedsman will 
supply you. 

S. C. D .—The pins when inserted into pieces of wood, 
6 inches long, make little spears. Stick the handles in 
the soil and let the pins project in a sloping direction. 

Place them 0 inches or so apart.- E. S. W .—We would 

not advise you to use any of the manure for seeds, they 
do not need it. A 3-inch pot full to a bushel of soil is a 
fair quantity for plants in general, giving them a top 

dressing when not bound.- H. N. Stafford.— No, not 

legally.- M. P. P. J.— Try Mr. Thompson. Tavern 

Street, Ipswich.- Subscriber From the Beginning .— 

Move the Roses into boxes now.- W.U.C.— Yes, it 

applies to all trees and shrubs. 

G. If'.—It is not a disease. It is, we believe, caused 
either by bad drainage or want of air. Some sorts are 
more tender than others.- Rev. Arthur f\—A very 


common occurrence in the Primrose.- S. C. —Mr. 

Dickson or Mr. Buck, Central Avenue Covent Garden 

Market.- S. Harts .—There is no book on the subject 

that we are aware of. 

Names of Plants.- Flower in long red box.— Libo- 

nia floribunda.- Miss E. Harrison. — Omphalodes 

Verna, not wild, and always blue.- 11. Wad ding ton. — 

Please send better and larger specimens of all.- -Mrs. 

Horsley .— Senecio Petasitea.- A. Skate.— 1, Species of 

Carpinus; 2, species of Euphorbia; too withered to 

recognise names of species.- Bella.— S&xifraga sarmen- 

tosa ; re pot the plant in About a month.- Ashtead. —1. 

Cornua Mas ; 2, Daphne Mezereum. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents. —AU communica¬ 
tions for insertion should be clearly and concisely written 
on one side qf the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
and address qf the sender is required , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title q f the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day qf publication , it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

0421.— Designs for cottage gardens.— I am 
about to build u number of labourers’ cottages of a su¬ 
perior class, with a view to the permanent improvement 
in comfort and morality of the village in which I reside. 
They will have gardens of a quarter of an acre each, the 
part in front of each cotta.e, intended to be for orna¬ 
ment, being about 15 yards square. The walls will be 
covered with creepers of all sorts ; the style of architec- 
tere will he Elizabethan, with half timbered gables, 
dormer windows, Ac., and windows with latticed panes. 
Can anyone suggest designs for laying out the front 
gardens? There will he nearly thirty cottages, and I 
wish the gardens to be all different and individual, a3 the 
cottages will be. Any suggestions will .oblige.— M. A., 
Cantab. 

9422 —Management of greenhouse.—I am sud¬ 
denly in possession of a fair sized greenhouse, with hot- 
water pipes and two frames presumably for bottom heat. 
How should this be got, and what temperature must 1 
keep it at for striking ordinary plants ? What tempera¬ 
ture will be best for the greenhouse by day as well as 
night ? What suudries (iu the way of potting mould and 
manure) had I better supply myself with ? My wish is to 
grow most of the more common flowering plants—Cal¬ 
ceolarias, Hydrangeas, Fuchsias, Arc., and if possible to 
have some of the Palm species, or nuy with massive 
foliage by way of ornamentation for the house and resi¬ 
dence. Is this practicable, and what will suit the 
purpose? - A. J. M. 

9423.—Common blue Iris.—Will someone kindly 
tell me what kind of treatment the common blue Iris 
(not the Spanish) requires ? We have many roots in an 
old fashioned garden that for several years have almost 
entirely ceased to flower. Some of the clumps are be¬ 
tween 2 feet and 3 feet across, but the tubers have come 
to the surface and become exposed; ought they to be 
covered over with good soil? We have tried takingsome of 
them up, and digging in fresh soil, and re planting, but 
this cannot be doue without breaking them a good deal. 
Under what circumstances do they flourish and flower ? 
Some of ours are in sunny and some in shady situations, 
but none of them flower well.—S omerset. 

94 24.—Plants for shaded greenhouse.— What 
plants might be tried with most reasonable hope of 
success under the following circumstances:—I have a 
lean-to greenhouse which though open in front is so 
overshaded by the house and adjacent buildings as to 
get but little sun, in fact, none to speak of. It is within 
town limits (Liverpool), and the air is necessarily inferior 
to that of tlie country. Artificial heat, though not yet 
provided, might be added should there appear sufficient 
Inducement What is wanted is something that will not 
require very much attention and that will grow well.— 
Fekayla. 

9425.— Plants for Fern case.— I have a Wardian 
case, 26 inches by 14 inches, dome roofed. In it is growing 
a fine specimen of the Killaruey Fern, which yet leaves 
a considerable portion of the soil unoccupied. The situa¬ 
tion is in town; dim light through staiued glass. The 
Fern is doing admirably. I wish to fill up the case with 
three basket Ferns, or Selaginellas, and two or three 
suitable to the ground level. All must be calculated to 
thrive under same conditions as Tricliomanes radiums. 
—II. A. D. 

942C.— Greenhouse In town — I have a very small 
greenhouse in a London area, facing south, sheltered 
from north and east. It has no heating apparatus, lowest 
night temperature hitherto 40°, but with sun heat it gets 
up to between 70° and 80“. Is that too hot for seedlings, 
and if so, what can I do to lower it ? To-day, with a 
north-east wind, two open windows made no difference 
to the temperature. What is the best way of shading in 
summer?—L. D. 

9427.—Cinder tennis court.—Although not strictly 
within the province of Gardening, doubtless many 
readers can answer this question : What is the best way 
of inducing cinders, already laid aud properly drained, 
to bind, and yet allow'the rain to percolate quickly? I 
have been advised tar, also small admixture of e>rth. 
Would either of these answer the purpose, and, if so, 
how and in what proportion should either be applied ?— 
Tyro. 

9128.—Plants dying in border.—This week a 
couple of plants which had looked extremely healthy 
suddenly withered and died. The one was a Polyanthus 
with several flowers and buds, the other an Aquilegia 
vulgaris. The latter was quite rotten just above the 
ground although the crown was quite sound aud 
numerous leaves had begun to unfold. Can anyone sug¬ 
gest tlie cause of this ?—Tyro. 

9429.—Edging tiles.—Can any reader give me any 
practical suggestion as to the best kind of edging tiles 




March 10, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


25 


for a kitchen garden ? I require about 600 yards, and 
wish to combine economy with eflkiendy. I thought of 
having Staffordshire blue tiles with a plain rolled top, as 
Mug least liable to be broken by a wheelbarrow passing 
ever them. Where can these he procured to the best 
advantage ?-E. L. M. 

9430.-Mushrooms end Cucumbers.-Will any 
reader kindly inform me whether I can grow Mushrooms 
in ray Cucumber frames collaterally with the Cucumber 
plants, which w ill be put in as soon as the manure is in 
suitable condition. I have been very successful with 
cucumbers, but not so with Mushrooms, and wish to 
know if this new idea is likely to prove a success or not ? 

-G lit HART. 

9IS 1—Gas heating.—Can any render inform me if 
it is practicable to heat a greenhouse, 10 feet by 18 feet, 
by gas with hot-water pipes, especially in very cold 
weather? If so, should 1 use a copper coil or boiler? 
What should be the length and diameter of beating pipes? 
There is a difficulty about erecting chimney for ordinary 
coal tire, alse about attention to same. Any hint will 
oblige.—M. E. 

9432.—Melon bed.—I should be obliged if some 
reader would give me a few hints on Melon culture. I 
am just about to prepare the manure rank from the 
slublc, and have nothing to mix with it. Will it answer 
as it is; also will road scrapings do to grow the plants 
in, or should I mix some rotten manure with it? A few 
plain hints will oblige. I have a large frame with three 
lights.—Y oung Gardener. 

9433 —Double Daffodil8.—Will anyone kindly tell 
me whether double Daffodils die out in London soil ? 
Mine were fairly good last year, and 1 left them undis¬ 
turbed, but this year only one or two show any signs of 
flowering, Narcissus in pots, too, I cannot get to grow 
properly. What can I do with them?—L. D. 

9434. —Hoe and fork combined.—In Gardening 
for October 12, 1882, page 381, amongst the answers to 
queries mention is made of a handy tool consisting of a 
hoe and fork combined. I have tried to procure this 
article, but none of the tradesmen I have applied to 
know anything of it. Will someone kindly say where it 
can be obtained?—S. C. D. 

9435. — Apples end Pears shrivelling.—Will 
some reader tell me the cause of late Apples and Pears 
shrivelling and turning out useless? To avoid the evil I 
did not gather Winter Nelia, Crassane, ami Beurre Ranee 
Tears, and lie88pool. Duke of Devonshire, and Nonpareil 
Apples until the end of October, but they shrivelled up 
very much.—O. F. 

9438. —Orange trees.—Can I get Orange trees raised 
from pips to flower? I do not care about fruit. Is It 
necessary to work the Orange on a stock to get bloom 
only, and if so, would the Shaddock answer to graft on? 
My plants are strong, three years old, and two feet high. 
-T.T. J. 

9437.— Sowing Lily seed.—I have some seed of 
Lilium auratum which I wish to sow. Does It require 
any special treatment ? I sowed some two years ago in 
an open bed, but it did not come up. I shall therefore 
he obliged for any information on the subject.—LlLlUM. 

9438—Vegetables for exhibition.—I should be 
glad if someone would give the names of the best kinds 
of Potatoes for exhibition in August. Best Red Round, 
Red Kidney, also best Cabbage, Cos and Cabbage Lettuce 
and Onions.—W. P. 

9439. —To dissolve bones —I have seen questions 
asked in Gardening how to dissolve bones into some¬ 
thing like bone meal, but have not seen an answer 
given. Would someone kindly say how It can be done.— 
Kkkdlet. 

9440. —Repairing old lawn.—The house in which 
I now live has been unoccupied for several years, and 
the grass is in a veiy bad state—bare in places, and very 
full of Moss. Dock, *fcc. What is the cheapest and easiest 
way of repairing it ? Is soot good ?—Tyro. 

9441. —How to eoften old putty. — I want to 
renew broken panes in a greenhouse. The putty is as 
hard as atone and resists the chisel. How can 1 soften 
it?—F. H. 

9442. —Snowdrops.—Will it injure the bulbs of 
Snowdrops to dig them up now the floweis are gone, and 
divide the weakly grown bulbs and plant them again 
directly.-M. 8. P. 

9443. —Peas for seed.—In the case of saving Peas 
for seed, is it better to set apart a few plants specially 
for the purpose, or to save the first Peas that come over 
the entire rows ?—E. H. H. 

9444. —Waterproofing calico. — Would any of 
our readers kindly say how to make calico waterproof ? 

want it to take the place of glass on frames.— 
Reed ley. 

9445. —Leek bed.—I shall he glad if some reader will 
give me some information with regard to Leeks. I have 
abed planted lute last autumn, will they be of any use, 
and what treatment do they require ? —Young Gardener. 

9446. —Offsets on Pel me-1 have a Palm with 
several young suckers an inch from its base. How can I 
remove them and get them to grow ? 1 took one off last 
year ; it died in a lew weeks — G. B. S. 

9447. —Bulbs In Holland.—Can anyone inform me 
how bulbs, such as Hyacinths, &c., are raised in Holland? 
-T. J. A. 

944?.-Plenting Aeperague.—I am about to plant 
Asparagus ; will someone kindly give me clear instruc¬ 
tions how to proceed ?— R. F. 

9149.—PrickiLg out Celery.— When pricking out 
Celery plants from the seedbed should the bottoms of the 
roots be pinched ott?—E. H. H. 

9450.—Wocdlice ir Muehrcom bed.—Will some 
one give me information as to the best way of destroying 
wood lice in a Mushroom bed?—C onstant Reader. 

H5i.— Hypericum elegans. — When should the 
•ecd of Hypericum elegans be sown and how treated?— 
Kiro. 

9452. —Winged Pea (Tetragonolobus purpureus).— 
Where can 1 got seed of this?—S altmarket. 

9453. —Sowing seeds of Peeoniea.—When Bhould 
wtds be sown ana how treated ?—Kiro. 


POULTRY AND PIGEONS. 


PIGEONS FOR HOME USE. 

I CAN only answer “ M. S. T. A.’s” query by 
detailing my own experience in rearing pigeons 
for home use. Some years ago I paid a visit to 
a farmer in the north of England. On the after¬ 
noon of my arrival his lady sent out to the 
pigeon-house for some young pigeons for supper. 
The stewed pigeons were so excellent, and they 
seemed to have been got with so little trouble, 
that when I reached home again I set about 
building a pigeon-house somewhat after the 
model of the one I had seen at the farmsteading. 
On the joists or couplings under the roof of an 
outhouse I got a wooden floor laid, extending it 
to within about 4 feet of the walls on every side. 
This space was then enclosed by walls of wooden 
boards run up from the floor and joists to the 
roof, which was a slated one. The points where 
the flooring boards rested on the joists were 
lined with zinc to prevent the rats from gnawing 
their way through, and a wooden passage, lined 
with zinc, and on a level with the floor of the 
pigeon-house, was carried through the roof in 
front. Abroad belt of zinc projected round the 
mouth of the entrance in such a way that neither 
cats nor rats could get a footing on the alighting 
board. The interior was furnished with rows of 
pigeon-holes ranged along the walls, and access 
to the house for the purposes of cleaning and 
feeding was got by a moveable ladder, and a door 
in one side of the wooden walls. 

I wished to rear a breed of pigeons that should 
be as large and plump as possible, and yet be 
sufficiently active to be able to fly well, so that 
in case of their home feeding beiDg at any time 
neglected, they might be able to pick up 
something for themselves at a distance. I got a 
few’ pairs of what the dealers called “Horsemen," 
large, heavy, longish birds, with a uniform light 
blue plumage, and with black bars on the wings 
and tails. These were too unweildy for 1113 ’ 
purpose, and I procured an equal number of 
what were called “ Blue Rocks,” but they had 
little resemblance to their wild congener of that 
name, which I have seen frequently. The 
dealer’s “ Blue Rock ” was a short, thick, strong- 
looking bird for its size, and its plumage w r as 
uniformly dark mottled blue. There were onl 3 ’ 
vestiges of black bars on the wings and tail. I 
crossed these two kinds, and I had reason to be 
satisfied with the result of mj’ experiment. The 
cross was in every case a pigeon as beautifully 
and regularly marked as the “ Horseman,” but 
somewhat smaller in size, and of a stouter and 
thicker build, and more active in flight. At table 
the birds were much appreciated, whether stewed 
or roasted. I frequently made presents of them 
to friends, and was as often told that for plump¬ 
ness and delicacy of flavour they were much 
superior to home-fed pigeons generally. 

The principal trouble in connection with this 
pigeon-house was the feeding and cleaning. 
Every morning at 9 o’clock, or earlier, a few 
handfuls of Indian corn were strewed on the 
floor of the pigeon house, and in the after¬ 
noon the same quantity was thrown into the 
court outside. The quantity was, of course, pro¬ 
portioned to the number of pigeons in stock, 
and could easily be guaged by watching them 
feeding. The rest of their food was got from 
the poultry meat, and from scraps and crumbs 
thrown from the house. In consequence of the 
attention they received, they seldom left the 
place, although there were many temptations, 
and they had great powers of flight; and it was 
only in the autumn, after the crops were cut, 
that they made frequent excursions to the 
nearest fields, where they were often seen feed¬ 
ing amongst the stubbles. They were so wary, 
however, that they could never be approached by 
anyone when so engaged. 

To rear pigeons with success it is necessary 
that they have complete protection in their houses 
from the attacks of both rats and cats. How¬ 
ever willing they may be to remain inside, they 
will stay out all night if a cat has gained ad¬ 
mittance ; and if its visits by r night are frequent, 
they’ will generally leave the house altogether, 
and take up their quarters elsewhere—perhaps 
in some place still more exposed to the visits of 
their enemies. It is not difficult to keep out the 
cats, but it is not so easy to provide against the 
cunning and perseverance of the rats. Every 
little chink and cranny which seems to offer the 
least chance of getting inside will be carefully 
examined and tested by them, and they can 


only be prevented by zinc or iron from cutting 
their way in, if they consider the “game”worth 
the trouble. One summer morning after I had 
got my pigeon house stocked, I saw from my 
room window a large rat on the top of the out¬ 
house. It spent nearly two hours in examining 
the joinings and overlappings of the slates 
immediately over the pigeon house, but it had 
ultimately’ to retire, baffled in its attempts to 
commit burglary’. P. R. 


Yolks of eggB.—J. C. P. —We can give no 
reason for the yolks of eggs being lighter in 
colour than others, but believe that those from 
birds in confinement are generally so. We do 
not think it is any detriment to them as regards 
quality, but they certainly do look better on tho 
breakfast table when of a dark rich yellow. 
Your feeding is good, but beware of too much 
Indian corn. Bran, except in very small pro¬ 
portion, is of no good as a soft food. You cannot 
do better than sharps mixed with Spratt’s 
poultry food, substituting barley or Indian meal 
for the formei - as a change. The best method of 
preparing SpTatt’s food is as follows : Place the 
quantity required in a vessel of some kind and 
add an equal quantity of cold water. This should 
be done the night previous to its being wanted 
the following morning. In the morning work 
into it as much barley or other meal as 
will make it into a stiff paste, not sloppy, but 
should break into fragments when thrown on 
the ground. For utensils nothing is better than 
a small 3-inch pail and a garden trowl, and if 
the latter be provided with an extra long handle 
it prevents the hands from becoming soiled.— 
Andalusian. 

Noisy fowls.— F. K. C \—We cannot name 
any breed of cockerel which w’ould prove less 
noisy as regards crowing than others. Indivi¬ 
dual birds of all varieties often possess this 
advantage—if we may use the term—but there 
is no dependence on them, and the near prox¬ 
imity of another male bird generally causes 
them to break out. If your neighbours so strongly 
object, and you desire to remain friendly with 
them, why keep a cock bird at all ? Hens lav 
just as well without one. On the other hand, 
they can do no more than complain, and cannot 
indict poultry as a nuisance, provided they are 
kept within bounds and the sanitary arrange¬ 
ments are properly looked after— Andalusian. 

Andalusians-— Enquirer. —If, as you state, 
your run is very damp, we should not advise you 
to attempt to keep this breed. Tr)’ either 
Brahmas or Plymouth Rocks. On a run of half 
an acre you could comfortably keep twenty- 
birds. Be sure your house is pitched on a dry 
spot, and it would be advisable to raise the 
ground round about it a few inches above the 
surrounding ground so that the birds can at all 
times have a dry spot to stand on. Also provide 
a shed of some sort, however rough, for them to 
retire to in wet or windy weather.— Anda¬ 
lusian. 

Sitting hens.— Troubled One. —You cannot 
prevent other hens from disturbing a sitting hen 
if she occupies a nest in the common laying 
house. It is folly to attempt hatching chicken 
unless a proper and separate house is available. 
The others will not only worry her, but will lay 
their eggs in her nest which she will at once 
cover, whereby good eggs will be spoilt and the 
whole arrangements upset.— Andalusian. 

Eyes swollen. — Chimbo. — Undoubtedly 
your pullet is suffering from roup or verj’ severe 
cold. Bathe the eyes night and morning in 
warm water, and administer at the same time 
one of Bailey’s roup pills (113, Mount Street, 
London). Keep warm, and feed on the most 
nourishing food. It should be remembered that 
roup is contagious; so that directly any of the 
flock be observed suffering from it, it must at 
once be separated from the others. It is a good 
plan to place iron tonic in the water after re¬ 
covery, as an attack of roup generally greatly 
weakens the system.— Andalusian. 

Leghorns.— P . T. C From your description, 
the birds are evidently white Leghorns, and 
when the pullets do commence laying you will 
find them most prolific. Here we have another 
instance of the folly of late hatching. If your 
chickens had been hatched last March instead of 
June, you would have had them laying before 
Christmas, whereas they have not yet started. 
Leghorns are non-sitters, and for sitters you 


26 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 10, 1883, 


cannot do better than procure one or two cross¬ 
bred Game hens.— Andalusian. 

Hamburghs. — I read with interest 
“J. C. C's.” account of the laying of his Ham¬ 
burghs, and thoroughly agree with most of his 
remarks upon that breed of fowl. “ J. C. C." 
states that from thirteen birds he obtained 1599 
eggs in twelve months, being an average of 123 
per bird. This result is an exceedingly good one, 
but as I can show a still better ODe, I commit 
the particulars to paper, thinking they may 
interest “J. C. C.’’ and some of your many 
readers. Four Silver Hamburgh pullets laid 
as follows: January, 78; February, 80 ; March, 
104; April, 101; May, 85 ; June, 84; July, G9; 
August, 53; September, nil ; October, 23; 
November, 40; December, 49 ; total for year, 
766; average, 191^ per bird. I may add the 
birds are still laying, and up to the present time 
(February 27) I have obtained 85 eggs from 
them. I keep Brahmas, Cochins, Houdans, and 
Indian Game, but find none of them possess the 
laying propensity of the Hamburghs.—C. G. F. 

Profitable poultry.— As various cor¬ 
respondents have thought proper to record their 
experience of poultry keeping, I think it will 
not be out of place to add mine to the many very 
interesting notes already published. I began last 
year with two pullets, one a Spanish and one a 
common fowl. They began laying on February 
8, and up to February 7 of the present year have 
laid 439 eggs. I set one hen in April, and she 
began laying again in July. 1 feed them in the 
morning upon soft food, middlings, or barley 
meal and bran, or soaked bread and middlings 
mixed; barley or buckwheat in the evening ; the 
scraps from the kitchen, and a good supply of 
green food. I do not use maize, because it gives 
the eggs a strong flavour, and makes the yolks a 
dark colour. The hens are kept in a small covered 
run, with a north-western aspect, and get but 
few rays of sunshine. The following is an 
analysis of the laying:—February 8 to 28, 16 
eggs; March, 55; April, 48 ; May, 29 ; June, 26; 
July, 44; August, 42; September, 37; October, 
45; November, 34 ; December, 37; January to 
February 7, 1883, 26 eggs; total 439. The eggs 
laid in May and June were from one hen only. 
—Hydra. 

Poultry feeding.— In reply to “ A. B. A.” 
I would request that the article be carefully 
read again. If “A. 11. A’s.” experience has not 
been similar, it is hardly fair to institute a com¬ 
parison, the feeding of chickens and the feeding 
of adult fowls differ so widely. My purchases 
consisted of oats, oatmeal, Indian meal, pollard, 
and sharps. The following is my experience for 
the past eight weeks:—From January 1 to 
February 25, consumed by twenty-six hens and 
two cocks.—Wheat screenings, at 7s. per 
hundredweight, 6s.; sound barley, at 9s. per 
hundredweight, 4s. 6d.; good oats, at 8s. 6d. per 
hundredweight, 3s. lOd.; pollard, at 8s. per 
hundredweight, 3s. 8d.; Indian meal at 9s. 4d. 
per hundredweight, 4s 8d.—total £1 2s. 8d., or 
1 )d. per head per week. I got 656 eggs, at Id., 
£2 14s. 8d„ or 3d. per head per v|sek—profit, 
£1 12s. Manner of feeding: —8 o’clock a.m., 
equal parts pollard and Indian meal, boiling 
water to moisten, and to be well kneaded. 
12 o’clock a.m., good short oats. 4 o'clock p.m., 
wheat or barley. On alternate nights they are 
also thrown the household scraps, which consist 
of vegetable refuse only. I have used a penny¬ 
worth of black pepper, and a halfpennyworth 
ofcastoroil—the former given on frosty mornings, 
and the latter administered to two pullets 
threatened with roup through having roosted in 
a draught. The symptoms were a harsh croak¬ 
ing noise in the throat. The beak being held 
partly open, the oil was given at roosting time, 
and they were quite well in the morning. I have 
placed thin boards 6 inches below the perches 
and covered with 2 inches of earth. I do not 
now fear roup. They have had the run of a 
small garden and grass field.—H. L. O. 


BEES. 

SEASONABLE NOTES. 

Commencing bee keeping. —This is 
the best month in the year for purchasing stocks. 
May for swarms. The bees have stood through 
the winter, and of course there is not the risk 
of losing them that there would have been had 

Digits by Google 


they been bought in the autumn. If a stock is 
in a healthy and prosperous condition, numbers 
of bees will be seen on a fine day earning into 
the hive large quantities of pollen, which is now 
collected for the nourishment of the young ; 
and if as many as twenty or thirty bees per 
minute be seen entering the hive so laden, it 
may be judged a prosperous stock. Before pur¬ 
chasing, however, the inside of the hive should 
also be thoroughly examined—having first 
smoked the bees ; the combs should be free from 
mould, and built straight, and if brood is found, 
the presence of a fertile queen is indicated. 
Stocks of bees should be moved late in the 
evening or very early in the morning; if in straw 
skeps, should be carried bottom upwards with a 
piece of cheese cloth tied over, and for better 
security a stick may be passed through the hive 
so as to pierce each comb; if this is done a few 
days before removal the bees will fasten the 
combs to the stick and make all secure and safe 
for moving. 

Hives.— All hives, sections, supers, &c., that 
are likely to be required during the coining 
season should now be provided ; it is better to 
have more hives than are required than to risk 
losing a swarm by having to run about to pro¬ 
cure a hive at the last moment. The bar-frame 
hive is fast superseding the old straw skep, be¬ 
cause in a bar-frame hive the bee-keeper has 
much more control over his bees, is able to ob¬ 
serve all that is goiDg on within the hive, can 
more readily obtain the honey and in more 
suitable form, and that without destroying his 
bees, the old-fashioned way of taking honey 
from straw skeps, as practised by cottagers, 
being to make a small hole in the ground, light 
brimstone therein, place the hive of bees over 
the horrible pit, and so do them to death, a 
pretty mess being the result, empty cells full of 
dead bees, and grubs, honey, and pollen, in a 
state of mash, the bees thus sacrificed often 
being worth as much as the sulphur-flavoured 
honey so obtained. 

The cottagers’ straw skep could, how¬ 
ever, be made much more profitable under en¬ 
lightened management, in supering, driving, 
uniting, See., than it has been hitherto, and 
sectional supers for working upon straw hives 
are now coming into vogue, and will be a great 
boon to the skepist; as white comb honey in 
good form can thus be obtained equal to any¬ 
thing produced from bar-frame_hives. S. S. G. 

Boxii'orth. 

Bee-feeding.— Would “S. S. G., Boxworth,” kindly 
Inform me how the syrup he recommends is made, the 
proportions of sugar and water ?—J. G. B. 


BIRDS. 

Canary losing its feathers.— I beg to 

thank those correspondents who replied to my 
queries with regard to “ canary losiDg his 
feathers.' 1 The bird is still living, and is in 
better song, bat his plumage does not improve. 
Would it be advisable to give him Watercress, 
the only green food available at present, as he 
has for some time been suffering from diarrhoea ? 
He won't take sherry as recommended. Would it 
do to mix the Hartz mountain bread with it 1 — 
C. M. S. 

Birds for aviary. — I have fixed in a 
spare room an aviary, the dimensions of which 
are 4 feet 6 inches wide, 2 feet 6 inches deep, 
and 6 feet high. I have in it a chaffinch and 
two pairs of canaries ; may I reasonably expect 
the canaries to breed in. such a place 1 They are 
quite healthy and get plenty of light and air. 
Would the presence of other birds be likely to 
prevent them breeding ? Also, what number of 
birds would be considered sufficient for sucli a 
place, and what are the best sorts ?—Avis. 

Books on British birds — “ British Birds in their 
Haunts," by the late Rev. C. A. Johns (Society for Pro- 
motinR Christian Knowledge), price 7s. 6d., will doubt¬ 
less meet the requirements of your correspondent.—W. 
W. Kino. 


DO PIGS PAY ? 

I have been very much pleased with a few par¬ 
ticulars on this subject, given by a corre¬ 
spondent in Gardening, showing that he gave 
£4 14s. for four young pigs about May last year, 
and by January 25, 1883, he had realised nearly 
double the original cost of the pigs, reckoning the 
selling price of the bacon and hams at 9d. perpound 


when cured and smoked, the actual profit being 
£8 6s. on the four pigs. When we read such 
accounts as the above we wonder why our home 
consumption is not more generally supplied from 
this country, instead of sending such large sums 
of money to America and elsewhere every year 
for bacon, bams, and pork. We all know the 
superiority of English-fed bams and bacon, and 
yet we have paid more than a million and a 
quarter of money in one month (January of this 
year) for pig flesh, cured or uncured. While it 
is estimated by competent authorities that this 
country has not increased its yield of hams and 
bacon for the last ten years, though the popula¬ 
tion (and consequently the demand for this class 
of food) is every year on the increase, it seems 
incomprehensible why everybody who has the 
accommodation for them does not keep 
two or more pigs—at least while green 
stuffs are plentiful, say from May to Oc¬ 
tober. And in cases where there is a large 
garden and a farm where the manure can be 
utilised, the mere pigs kept on the place the 
better. I know of a gentleman in Scotland 
living on his own estate of between three and 
four hundred acres, who keeps as many aseighty 
pigs at one time ; and there is a nobleman living 
within three miles of where the writer lives who 
is an extensive breeder of prize pigs. Of course, 
in this case, there is always a good supply of 
new milk and butter milk for the pigs, as the 
gentleman is also a breeder of prize cattle, and 
keeps a good stock of milch cows. Bnt these 
are not essential adjuncts of pig keeping, as 
wherever there is a few vegetables and potatoes 
grown there is always something towards the 
pigs’ keep. Some people will be without pigs 
lor a season simply because the price of young 
store pigs is high; but if there were a steady 
demand for them there would always be a 
supply, except when disease is prevalent. The 
price of a young pig should be a small matter. If 
the breed be good ; of course, I should not pay 
a fancy price for store purposes. My father 
never used to think he had any Christmas cheer 
if he had not a good, heavy pig to kill in the 
early winter. And the pleasure of keeping pigs 
can only be rightly estimated by those who have 
kept them and seen them thrive. 

Some people wrill not keep pigs because they 
cannot see a large profit out of them before¬ 
hand. I may tell these people that they may 
enter into scores of speculations more doubtful 
than keeping pigs. There are other people who 
will not keep pigs because of the trouble. I would 
tell this class of people that they spend ten times 
the labour over some things that do not yield 
half the pleasure, and certainly not near so 
much profit. There are other people who will 
not keep pigs because of the Bmell. Now, I 
never advocate keeping pigs where Hwre is not 
ample accommodation for them, but where there 
is a good kitchen garden they may be kept safely 
and profitably. It is wise to have a good space 
covered with Potatoes and Cabbages where pigs 
are kept, but they will clear off any green staffs 
that are to spare. It is often more convenient 
to keep pigs than to keep fowls, as they do not 
require so much fencing off. With many poor 
people the pig is their bank where they save 
their littles and take it up in a lamp. G. C. 


Scarlet Anemone. — Messrs. Collins A 
Gabriel, Waterloo Road, have shown us a basket 
of bloom of Anemone fulgens, which made us wish 
that we could see the plant grown in many more 
gardens than it is at present. The bulbs are 
cheap ; they will grow in any ordinary garden 
soil, and they supply abundance of brilliant 
scarlet blossoms for several weeks in winter and 
early spring. 

Geranium Winter Queen.— This is the 
name of a new double Scarlet Zonal Pelargo¬ 
nium sent to us by Mr. Ravenscroft, Granville 
Nursery, High Street, Lewisham. It is the 
brightest and best Pelargonium we have seen 
for winter flowering. It is very short jointed, 
and when each shoot has made two or three 
leaves a truss of bloom is formed. Even small 
plants in cutting pots flower abundantly. The 
individual blooms are large and of the most 
brilliant scarlet, and they do not drop their 
petals after being cut, as is the case with most 
kinds of Geraniums. For bouquets they are 
invaluable. Anyone having a warm greenhouse 
should not fail to get this Pelargonium for 
winter blooming. 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


VoL V. 


MARCH 17, 1883. 


No. 210. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Continued from page 16.) 


Deolduous Trees and Shrubs of 
choice character. 

Ai.th.-ea pitUTKX and its varieties are ex¬ 
ceedingly pretty plants of compact habit, flower¬ 
ing late in summer; one or two have variegated 
foliage. They usually grow from 4 feet to 5 
feet high. Berberis vulgaris (the common 
fruiting Barberry) has a very ornamental appear¬ 
ance in spring when in blossom, and also again 
later on when in fruit. Its fruit is sometimes 
used to make jellies, Ac. It shows best when 
planted on elevated or sloping ground, so that it 
may stand out prominently. A cluster of it 
growing on a little eminence by the side of a 
winding path or road looks well. B. atropur- 
purea is also a very useful variety for a planter 
who is seeking to create striking effects. B. 
asialica is a good hedge plant, or for forming 
screens. The Calycanthus (Allspice) should be 
planted for its scent, Cotoneaster Simonsi for 
its neat habit and bright berries in winter. The 
Cydonias (Japan Quince), such as rosea, alba, 
and others,are very desirable, early flowering, low 
growing plants. The Mezereum Daphne, that 
(lowers with the Snowdrop and Crocus, and is 
later on laden heavily with scarlet berries, is one 
of the most effective little shrubs we have. 
Deutzia scabra, D. crenata fl.-pl., and D. gracilis 
are all pretty white flowering spring shrubs, 
i’orsythia viridissima and B’ortunei, the yellow 
flowers of which come before the leaves early in 
spring, are very effective, also the Brooms (Ge¬ 
nista hispanica and tinctoria fl.-pl.). Snowdrop 
tree (Halesia tetraptera), Sea Buckthorn (Hippo- 
phiie rhamnoides), Hydrangea paniculata grandi 
flora, St. John’s Wort (Hypericum elatum), and 
others. Kerria japonica fl.-pl., and Leycesteria for- 
mosa, Liquidambar styraciflua, should be planted 
for the brilliancy of its foliage in autumn if for 
nothing else. The Lilacs are indispensable, and 
such varieties as Charles X. should, in choice 
collections of shrubs, take the place of the com¬ 
moner kinds; virginalis is a pure white. The 
Magnolias are a neglected race, the reason being 
probably that some of them are rather tender, but 
Magnolia Lenne and M.tripetala(Umbrella tree) 
are hardy, and M. acuminata is a grand lawn 
tree. 

The Honeysuckles are well known to every¬ 
body as wall and pole climbers, but they are 
equally beautiful as standards and half¬ 
standards in the front of the borders. Lonicera 
nigra, L. rosea grandiflora, and L. tatarica alba 
are all useful. The Tree Pieony may be had 
in numerous varieties, and are so beautiful in 
spring, either as border plants or in pots for the 
conservatory, and they will be largely grown 
some day when their merits are recognised. The 
1'hiladelphus (Syringa), or Mock Orange as it is 
commonly called, from its strong fragrance 
being much akin to the real orange blossom, 
are also excellent summer-flowering shrubs. P. 
grandiflorus and P. speciosissima are amongst 
the best; all are white-flowered, two have double 
flowers and one has variegated foliage. Poten- 
ttlla fruticosa, Prnnus triloba, P. sinensis alba 
l.-pl., and P. rosea fl.-pl., are very desirable, 
« are also the following:—Pyrus Aucuparia 
(Mountain Ash), P. Aria (White Beam tree), P. 
Jumestica (true Service tree), Eibes (flowering 
Currants), R. sanguines (red), R. s. flore-pleno 
(double red). It. albidum (white), R. aureum 
(yellow), Spirit:a aritefolia (white), S. bella 
(rose), S. callosa (rose), S. Douglasi (pink), 
S. "pulaefolia lutea (yellow), S. prunifolia 
d-pl. (white), 8. Reevesi (white), S. salicifolia 
mmea(pink). The Spineas are beautiful flower¬ 
ing shrubs, mostly of low growth. The Vene¬ 
tian Sumach (Rhus Cotinus) is one of the most 
beautiful and interesting shrubs for a front 
plant in the border, or as a single specimen on 
the lawn R. typhina (Stag’s-hom). Tamarix 
elegans, a very interesting elegant little plant 
ol feathery growth, makes a pretty low group 
on the grass or at the edge of the border—ex¬ 
cellent for seaside planting. Viburnum Opulus 
(Guelder Rrse), V. Lantana (Wayfaring Tree), 


alba are very pretty and interesting families of 
low shrubs adapted for pot culture in a collec¬ 
tion of hardy plants in a cool house or for forcing, 
also Xanthocera sorbifolia, a pretty, hardy, white- 
flowered shrub. I do not profess to give more 
than a selection. If more are required, pay a 
visit to a large nursery in the spring, when 
shrubs are mostly in flower. 

Select List of Evergreen Trees and 
Shrubs. 

Conifers, —Of these I have already referred 
with approval to the Cedar of Lebanon, the 
Cedar of Mount Atlas, Picea Nordmanniana 
and Picea Pinsapo. To these I will now add 
Picea nobilis, Cryptomeria japonica, Abies 
canadensis (Hemlock Spruce), Abies Clanbra- 
siliana—a dwarf, dense species suitable for small 
grass plots or planting ou rockwork. The Cedrus 
Deodara and the Wellingtonia gigantea are 
ornamental in a young state, but are uncertain 
afterwards, and it is unsatisfactory to plant a 
thing one cannot rely upon. Abies Smithiana 
is a handsome tree, and not so particular about 
soil or situation as many Conifers are. The 
Deciduous or Swamp Cypress (Taxodium dis- 
tichum) is a handsome tree for damp situations 
on strong soil. A somewhat similar situation 
also suits the Hemlock Spruce. Of the smaller 
Conifers a more extended list may be made, 
as the Biotas (Chinese Arbor-vittes), the Yews, 
Thujas, Junipers, and the many forms of Japanese 
Cypress will succeed in most places. Biota 
orientalis, B. aurea, B. elegantissima, B. semper- 
aurescens, Cryptomeria elegans, Cupressus 
macrocarpa, C. Lawsoniana, C. L. erecta viridis, 
C. L. gracilis, C. L. lutea, C. L. pendula alba, 
Juniperus chinensis, J. hibernica, J. prostrata, 
J. virginiana, Retinospora fllifera, R. obtnsa, R. 
pisifera, R. p. argentea, R. plumosa, R. p. aurea, 
R. squarrosa, Taxus adpressa, T. baccata (com¬ 
mon Yew), T. b. elegantissima, T. b. aureo- 
variegata, T. fastigiata (Irish Yew), T. f. aureo- 
variegata, Thuja occidentals (American Arbor- 
vitre), T. o. Vervieana, and Thujopsis borealis. 

Other eiergrcens .—Arbutus Unedo (Straw, 
berry tree), A. Andrachne, Aralia Sieboldi, 
Aucuba dentata variegata, A. macuiata, A. japonica 
vera, A. j. luteo-carpa (yellow berries). Male 
varieties: — Aucuba japonica macuiata, A. 
japonica viridis. The introductions from J apan 
of late years have added to the numbers and 
increased the interest of this family. It is a very 
ornamental class, and with the Hollies and Ivies 
should be largely planted in suburban gardens. 
A very limited number of male plants will suffice 
to fertilise a large quantity of female plants if 
growing in the immediate neighbourhood with¬ 
out any further trouble, as the wind, aided by 
insect agency, conveys the pollen from one plant 
to the other. Sometimes the males bloom first, 
and in that case the pollen must be collected 
and kept dry till the flowers of the females open, 
tnen be dusted among the plants on a fine, dry 
day. The evergreen Barberries are a large and 
beautiful family, for the most part bearing 
yellow or orange flowers in spring. B. Darwini, 
B. dulcis, and B. stenophylla are free growing, 
graceful-habited shrubs. B. japonica is less well 
known, but is very handsome. B. Aquifolium is 
one of the best plants for forming masses of 
undergrowth and covering dry banks. The 
Barberries Bhonld, as a role, be planted in a small 
state, us when large they do not transplant well. 
Buxus (Box tree), B. balearica, B. japonica, B. 
sempervirens, B. s. argenteus, B. s Handg- 
worthiana, B. suffruticosa, B. s. marginata aurea. 
When, as in some cases, a large number of Boxes 
are planted, it is better to have a number of varie¬ 
ties than to have so many duplicates as we com¬ 
monly meet with, even in well-kept places. Cerasus 
lusitanica (Portugal Laurel), C. Laurocerasns 
(common Laurel), C. colchica, and C. caucasica 
are excellent nurses, and useful for blinds 
and clothing banks, or forming undergrowth 
beneath trees where the shade is not too dense. 
Colletia horrida, Cotoneaster microphylla, Cra¬ 
taegus Pyracantha, Daphne Cneorum, Elteagnus 
reflexa variegata, Euonymus japonicus, E. j. 
aureo-variegatus, E. j. ovatns aureo-variegatus, 


Virgiiia lutea, Weigsla rosea, and W. amabilis land E. radicans variegatus, are interesting low 

fv- _, l I /"V nl/i 


growing Japanese shrubs, but several species 
are of doubtful hardiness. 

Holly (Ilex): Ilex Aquifolium (common), I. 
altraclerensis, I. angustifolium, I. flavum, I. 
fremina, I. Hodginsi, I. nigrescens, I. Shepherdi, 
I. latifolium, I. ferox foliis argenteis (silver 
hedgehog), I. ferox foliis (golden hedgehog), I 
Golden Queen, I. Silver Queen, I. Hands- 
worthiana, and Bronze-leaved. Where the soil is 
suitable, there is no class of plants capable of 
being used so effectively in villa or other gardens 
as a collection of Hollies, and with regard to 
Hollies, the remark I made of the Box applies 
with still greater force. I know places where 
there are hundreds of Hollies, and yet all, or 
nearly all, are the common green variety ; and 
this, when so much variety can be had, is, I think, 
a great mistake. Laurus nobilis (Sweet Bay), 
Ligustrum (Privet) japonicum, L. j. aureum 
variegatum, L. j. ovalifolium, L. j. o. elegan- 
tissimum, L. j. pendulum aureum. The Japanese 
Privets are very ornamental, fast-growiDg shrubs. 
Magnolia grandiflora (Exmouth variety) for 
warm, sheltered places, and on south or west 
walls. The Laurustines are all pretty, and 
are especially desirable, as they flower in winter 
and spring. They often suffer during severe 
winters north of London. Osmanthus myrti- 
folius, O. ilicifolius, O. argenteo-variegatus, 
0. aureo-variegatus, Phillyrea anguBtifolia, P. 
buxifolia, Quercus Ilex (evergreen Oak), 
Raphiolepis japoniea (Indian Hawthorn), 
Khamnus alaternus, latifolins (Buckthorn), 
Pemettya angustifolia, Skimmia japonica, 8. 
j. oblata—useful for winter effect when in 
fruit—Lavender, Rosemary, and Southernwood 
produce striking effects when disposed in large 
patches or groups on banks or in front of shrub¬ 
beries ; S partium junccum, Dlex europsea flore- 
pleno (double Goree), Vinca major, V. m. 
elegantissima, V. minor, V. m. aureo-varic- 
gata. The Periwinkles or Vincas are especially 
adapted for dry banks or under trees, where little 
else will grow. Ruscus aculeatus (Butcher's 
Broom), R. racemosus, Yuccas (Adam’s Needle), 
Y. filamentosa, Y. f. variegata, Y. gloriosa, and 
Y. recurva, though not exactly shrubs are 
generally classed as such. They are quite indis- 
pensablein every phase of ornamental gardening, 
being as suitable for the wild garden as for the 
most elaborate geometrical design. 

The Tree Ivies : Hedera arborea, H. a. tricolor 
marginata, H. a. marginata argentea, H. a. anrea 
macuiata, H. a. luteo-baccifera (yellow fruited), 
H. a. palmata, H. a. canariensis, and H. 
Rsugneriana. The Tree Ivies are, I think, destined 
to become popular, being so cheerful looking in 
winter. 

Variegated Trees and Shrubs. 

Though some look upon variegation as a 
disease (and when bred too finely perhaps it 
may be), all plants having a fair proportion 
of green in their leaves are healthy and long- 
lived ; for instance, the variegated Holly, the 
Box, and Aucuba, are as hardy as the green¬ 
leaved forms. Doubtless some of the golden¬ 
leaved plants, where there is at certain seasons 
an almost total absence of green, are delicate. 
The golden Catalpa may be cited as a case in 
point, yet the majority are hardy and healthy, 
and no garden is complete without some of them, 
as they give such a warm glow of colour in 
winter. Below I append a selection of the best 
and hardiest of all sections of variegation, and 
the curious in such matters may extend the list 
considerably. Of trees of large growth there are 
the variegated Elms, the purple Beech, the 
scarlet Oak (Qucrcus coccinea), the golden Oak 
(Q. conoordia), the purple Oak (Q. Robur atro- 
purpurea), the purple Biroh (Betula alba 
purpurea), golden Poplar (Populus canadensis 
Van Geerti), silver Poplar (P. argentea), scarlet 
Maples (Acer sanguineum and A. Colchicum 
rubrum), the silver Maple (A. Negundo varie¬ 
gatum), Golden Laburnum, the silver Willow 
(Salix argyrea), the variegated Phiiadelphus, or 
Syringa, as it is commonly called, the two forms 
of variegated Elder, gold and silver. 

To return to the Maples again for a minute 
there are plants of elegant habit and splendid 









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March 17, 1883,] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


29 


•George Ramsay, ‘James Dixon, ‘James Gallo¬ 
way (extra), ‘John Fortune, and ‘Prince of 
Orange (grand).—J ohn Turnbull. 

- In reply to “ Old Reekie,” it is a most 

difficult matter to name thirty-six of the very 
lost Fancy Pansies, as there are so many varieties 
■sent out now by various growers, all of which 
are more or less commendable. I have been an 
cxhi bitor for many years, and have made Fancy 
Pansies a specialty. I therefore give the names 
of the thirty-six Pansies with which I have been 
most successful, and which were included in my 
first prize collections at Leeds in 1881-2,viz: 
City Lantern, Marjory, Adonis, Florinda, Mrs. 
J. Welsh. F. W. Lelland, Anthony, Champion, 

J. B. Downi, Harry Lister, Hecla, Justice 
Hawkins, Horseman, Bruce Findlay, Buttercup, 
Kirbie, Miss Darling. Mrs. Birkmyre, Theebau, 
Captain Tomlin, Beatrice, Thalia, Rose Charlton, 
Mrs. Felton, Rob. Cowan, The Favourite, Mrs. 
Crawley, Mrs. Irvine, Vesta, Mrs. Taylor, Little 
Gem, Defiance, Medina, Lucy, Argus, Eleanor.— 

K. M., Shadrrell. 

—— Thirty-six of the best Fancy Pansies arc 
Lady Falmouth, Mrs. Scott Plummer, Mrs. 
Jamieson, Mrs. E. H. Wood, J. B. Downie, Mrs. 
McTaggart, Mrs. Taylor, Mrs. Crawley, James 
Grieve, Thomas Grainger, Robert Cowan, George 
Wood, Monarch, Miss Darling, Thomas Ham- 
mersley, Captain Tomlin, Fred Giffard, Mias 
Minnie Methven, Miss Lizzie Matthews, R. 
Goodwin, R. K. Mitchell, Mrs. Birkenzie, Mrs. 
Hubbard, Kirbie, R. Dunlop, Ringleader, Thalia, 
W. Melville, Ertie Welsh, L. V. Heathcote, W. 
Cuthbertson, Sir F. K. Murray, Miss McNutt, 
David Cavan, Buttercup, R. Laird. —William 
Walters, Jiturion-on-Trent. 

- As an exhibitor of Pansies, and the 

winner of many prizes, I herewith give ‘‘Auld 
lleekie ” the names of standard sorts for exhibi¬ 
tion as met with in Scotch shows, viz.:—Agnes 
W. Scott, Bailie Armour, Bruce Findlay, Duchess 
of Edinburgh, George White, J. B. Downie, 
.Irannie Malcolm, Maggie Henderson, May 
Queen, Miss M. Methven, Mrs. E. H. Wood, 
Mrs. Hubbard, Robert Cowan, Sirs. Scott 
I'lumnier, Thalia, Thomas Grainger, Beaconsfield, 
Hugh Baton, Maggie Don, Mrs. Findlay, Miss 
Darling, Mrs. Birkmyre, Miss Allan, Prince of 
Wales, Robert Laird, Lavidia, David Scott, Mrs. 
Turner, Nelly Thomson, Signor Foli, Mrs. 
Jamieson, Vesta, Mrs. Greenaway, Angus 
Mc Leod, Lady Dunmore, Mrs. Murray Jardine. 
—John Jardine, Kilmarnock, Ti.B. 

D109.— Qeum coccineum plenum.— It 
were a pity to attempt to force this capital hardy 
border flower, for though so useful for the fur¬ 
nishing cut bloom, yet it is so contingent for its 
value upon its rich colour, that forcing under 
glass would rob it of its chief charm, because the 
colour would be so pale. The plant under any 
conditions of culture does not need specially rich 
soil, it thrives well in a pot in a cold frame, or in 
the open border, which is its best place.—A. 

9385.— Annuals on stones, <Sco—A pretty 
shallow rooting annual for growing on stones is 
Nemophila (blue), and Saponariacalabrica(pink) 
would also do admirably. Seedling Auriculas 
should be first transplanted either into small 
pots singly or else into shallow boxes or pans 
filled with soil before they are planted out into 
the open ground. It is well to get them strong 
first, and to plant ont in May, or for spring 
flowering some time in October. Any good 
holding soil will suit, but the position should be 
a cool rather than a hot one. Plant Gladioli 
Imlbs daring the month of April, from the middle 
to the end, and about 3 inches deep.—D. 

in 19.— Indian corn for flower beds. 
—The striped J apanese Maize, which I suppose 
is meant, should not be sown in the open border 
before the 1st of May, but plants raised in the open 
do very little good unless the summer is very 
warm, the soil in this country not being warm 
enough for the seed to germinate till the season 
is far advanced. It would be much better to 
raise the plants in heat, and plant them out in 
June A Cucumber or Melon frame answers 
admirably for this purpose without in any way 
interfering with its rightful occupants. The 
seed should be sown the third week in April, in 
pots filled with light rich soil, and the plants 
potted off as soon as they are large enough to 
handle; they should be grown on in heat and 
potted in larger pots when required. It is im¬ 
portant to grow them from. t-Ije first without a 
heck, they should be takefc grariua'ly indbwev 


temperatures before getting them in a cold 
frame to harden off prior to planting out. In 
this way the plants would be far advanced by 
planting out time, and aa a portion of them are 
sure to come green, the best marked ones should 
be selected for planting, which should not be 
done before the beginning of June. This Maize 
requires a deep, rich, mellow soil, and a sheltered 
sunny aspect and abundance of water to grow 
it well.—O. P. 

- Abont the middle of April is a safe time 

to sow Indian Corn in the open ground, as ere 
it gets up danger from frost is past. In any 
case a little light soil may be drawn up over the 
young shoots if found to be too early. The chief 
enemies of Maize are birds and slugs, for the 
young shoots are very sweet and succulent.—D. 

- This may be sown in a flower border any 

time during May j but (except in very favour¬ 
able situations) the plants succeed best if raised 
under glass, and planted when the weather 
becomes warm and settled.—A. H. C. AVatson, 
Copthome. 

8272.— Bedding: r. Show Pansies —Re¬ 
ferring to Mr. P. Rainford and Mr. G. Hender¬ 
son’s replies, I may state that both Bluestone 
and Sunny Park Rival appear constantly in 
stands of Show Pansies at the Scotch exhibitions, 
and I have never yet heard of them being dis¬ 
qualified. Their habit of growth proves them to 
be quite distinct from Bedding Pansies. The 
following are good additions to this section of 
Show Pansies—viz., Alexander Scott (1882), blue 
self; Robert Grigor (1881), deep cobalt blue 
self; AV. J. Rawlings (1882), clear azure blue 
self; also Blue King and P. AV. Syme.— John 
Turnbull. 

9399.— Flowers for London grarden.— 

The seed of Golden Feather should be sown 
abont the end of March in a cold frame, and 
transplanted as soon as the seedlings are large 
enough to handle. The garden may be made 
very gay by planting plenty of Geraniums, Cal¬ 
ceolarias, and Lobelias. “E. E.N.” might also 
plant plenty of Polyanthuses, Primroses, Antir¬ 
rhinums, &c.—A. H. Davis, Canhalton. 

9404.— Carnations not flowering.—I 
should say from “CL G’s” description that his 
Carnations were not well rooted. Possibly he 
obtained his plants in the spring. When moved 
in the spring and perhaps partially disrooted, 
they take a long time to recover the check, and 
the bloom suffers accordingly ; but if bought in 
t he autumn and grown steadily on during winter 
and spring into 9turdy plants, there will be no 
failure of the buds to open when blooming time 
comes.—J. K., Hornsey. 

- That Carnations did not bloom well last 

year was doubtless due to some local cause. No 
doubt if layers were made in the antnmn, and 
thus strong young plants formed and trans¬ 
planted into good fresh soil, they will bloom freely 
and properly this year. It is absolutely impossible 
to give general reasons for failures that are not due 
to general causes, but solely to trivial ones.— D. 

9387.— Plant for edging.— Next to Grass, 
no plant makes a similar or more permanent 
edging than does one of the mossy Sednms, such 
as the green Lydium or the silvery glaucum, but 
these are not flowering plants. The common 
Thrift makes a pretty edge or margin when in 
bloom, but it likes depth of soil to root in. 
Perhaps one of the best flowering plants would 
be Aubrietia deltoidea, which grows very dwarf 
and dense, and may easily be trimmed into 
shape and straightness by a spade.—D. 

-I advise “ Clapton ” to try Thrift in the 

situation named, as it is a very pretty border 
plant. Gentiana acaulis also forms a verypretty 
edging, and Santolina incana makes a good 
permanent edging, but it does not flower.— 
A. H. C. Watson, Cay theme. 

9108.— Beet for bedding.— The best kind 
of Beet for bedding is Dell’s crimson. Seed 
may be sown where it is to stand for the summer 
at the end of April, but it is perhaps best to 
sow in shallow boxes under glass about the 
middle of April, and then transplant the seed¬ 
lings by dibbling them in carefully where 
wanted when strong enough. Transplanted 
plants usually come all the more even in height. 
Brazilian Beet are tall and coarse growing, bat 
have rich coloured leaf stems, and singly or in 
clumps of three here and there are very orna¬ 
mental. Seeds of these may be sown in patches 
where wanted to grow, and be thinned out, or 


may be sown in small pots for turning out.— 
A. D. 

-I have found Dell’s black-leaf Beet the 

best for flower beds; it is dwarf, and of a very 
deep crimson, approaching black, and the best 
plan of raising it is to sow the seed in boxes of 
very poor soil in March, placing in a cool house 
or frame, and when the young plants are large 
enough prick off into other boxes 2 inches apart, 
and gradually harden off. They may be planted 
out the end of April or first week in May. 
AVater well at first, but as soon as they take 
root, the hotter and drier the weather the better 
they grow. Some object to Beetroot in the 
flower garden, by reason of its culinary associa¬ 
tions, but otherwise it is a most effective foliaged 
plant, being quite equal to Iresine, that requires 
heated structures to preserve it all the winter. 
It is not, however, only in summer, but especially 
in winter and spring gardening that the value of 
Beet is most apparent, for if the roots are 
planted deeply so as to be covered by 2 inches 
of soil, it is surprising the amount of frost they 
will resist, looking especially well in conjunction 
with Centaureas and other silvery-leaved plants. 
The old foliage will make a good display until 
cut off by frost, and by the middle of March a 
crop of young leaves will have pushed up from 
the old roots. The leaves are most beautifully 
coloured in spring before the plant runs up to 
seed, and before this takes place the beds will be 
cleared of their occupants. This of course 
refers to the southern part of the kingdom, 
where Beet grows to perfection. I observe in 
many gardens about here the Brazilian or Chilian 
Beet has been most effective all the winter, and 
is now growing freely, forming effective masses 
of colour from the varied hues of the midribs of 
its large leaves. The same routine of culture as 
that given above will also suit this highly useful 
variety.— James Groom, Seafield, (Import. 

9418.— Hollyhocks.— If really first-class 
kinds of Hollyhocks are desired, they should be 
purchased at once or during the present month 
from the florist. Named kinds will be in pots, 
and good seedlings just fit for replanting. The 
soil should be well manured and deeply worked, 
and the plants put out, if in rows, to grow Bhow 
spikes, 3 feet apart, and if in a bed 2 feet 
apart each way. Plants should as a rule cany 
only one strong spike, and certainly not more 
than two spikes. These also, when from 5 feet 
to 6 feet in height, should have the tops pinched 
out, to prevent them getting top heavy. Each 
plant needs a strong, tali stake to support the 
spike, and during hot dry weather, not only 
often sprinkling over the leaves at night, but 
also frequent soakings at the roots. A mulching 
of long manure about the roots is also very 
serviceable. The HoUyhock fungus is a great 
pest, and is best kept in check by free sprinklings 
and quick robust growth.—D. 

- To grow the Hollyhock well, the soil 

should be deep, moist, and rich. Sewage in a 
weak state suits it admirably. Plant in March 
or April, 3 feet apart each way. They should be 
staked at the time of planting and tied loosely 
as they advance in growth. To grow from seed 
sow in February in a gentle heat; the seedlings 
may be planted out in May, and will flower the 
first year.—A. H. Davis, Carshalton. 

- Get good plants from the nursery and 

plant them next month in loose, well-mannred 
soil, near a south or south-west wall. If they 
grow strong, each plant will require a wooden 
stake about 1J inches thick, and from 8 feet to 
10 feet long, and the stakes can be steadied and 
kept upright by being fastened to nails in the 
wall. If it is very uncertain what may be the 
ultimate height of the plants, the stakes may 
be applied in pieces. The first or lowest piec" 
may be 6 feet long, and another piece cau 
be added when required. The advantage of 
planting near a wall is that thin wooden stakes, 
which do not interfere much with, the flower 
spikes, can be used, whereas, if planted in tbe 
open ground, the tall growing stems require to 
be supported either by thick wooden poles, o. 
else by thin, stiff iron rods, which are expensive 
The disadvantage of growing them Dear a wall 
is that the flower-spikes may be somewhat more 
onesided than they would be in the open 
•Diluted liquid from farmyard manure should be 
given occasionally to ensure strong growth,— 
P. B. __ 

Vol I. “ Gardening ” is ont of print, and we are 
therefore unable to further supply either separate copier 
or hound volumes. 





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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Mahch 17, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


31 


simply barbarous. Look over Strawberry beds, 
remove all weeds, spread down the mulching and 
rake oS before the crowns become too prominent. 
On onr cold damp soil we make it a rule to lay 
the autumn mulching in ridges between the 
rows, and after dressing the beds with soot, the 
manure is levelled down early in the spring— 
the advantages being freedom from slugs, more 
complete rest to the crowns, and a later and 
better bloom in the spring. W. C. 

Vegetables. 

Fill up blanks in Cabbage and Lettuce 
quarters, and keep the soil well cultivated be¬ 
tween the rows, which is the very life of vege¬ 
tation, and which should receive attention on all 
favourable opportunities. Now is about the very 
best time to make a selection of Broccoli for 
seed. Some seeds of Brussels Sprouts should 
now be sown. It is well to make sowings of this 
vegetable twice—at the present time and again 
later on—the later sowing will form Sprouts late 
in the autumn that will stand better through the 
winter than those sown earlier, but the latter 
furnish the finest produce. A little Cauliflower 
seed should also be sown at the same time. It 
is advisable to coat the seeds with red lead, as a 
preventive to the attacks of birds. A little 
sweet oil used in place of water before the 
powdered lead is dusted upon the seed will cause 
it to adhere better, and prevent it being removed 
cither by wet or by coming in contact with the 
soil. 

Potatoes. —More early and second early 
Potatoes should now be planted. For the ear¬ 
liest in most soils Kidneys are preferable to the 
Bound varieties, being much better for the 
table in a young state. As representatives of 
the old well-known Ashleaf Kidney, there is 
nothing to surpass Hammersmith Kidney, Mona's 
Pride, and Myatt's Ashleaf; they are all excel¬ 
lent in quality, very early, and succeed in old 
gardens and soil not the best adapted for Potato 
culture. As an early Hound kind, Early Oxford is 
a good sort and a free cropper; as a second early, 
nothing yet surpasses York Regent, either for 
its eatable properties, weight of produce, or 
adaptability to any soil where Potatoes can be 
grown. Any two of the above Kidneys, with the 
Regents and Paterson’s Victorias, are ample for 
a supply all the year round. 

Peas sown in turves or boxes should now be 
planted out; give them a sheltered situation in 
the driest part of the garden, and choose a day 
when the soil is tolerably dry; where it is so 
moist as to become compressed by treading 
upon boards should be used. As soon as the 
Peas are planted draw a little soil to them, and 
at once stake them with small sticks, placing 
outside these a few branches of evergreens to 
protect them from cold winds. Keep a daily 
look-out for sparrows. 

Tomatoes. —Some seeds of these should 
now be sown in heat, to get the plants estab¬ 
lished before planting-out time. The seeds may 
be sown in an ordinary 8-inch or 10-inch pot or 
seed-pan, covering them with ^ inch of soil or 
half-a-dozen seeds each may be put into 2-inch 
or 3-inch pots, afterwards thinned out to a couple 
of plants, and potted on as they need it. As 
soon as the seedjvegetates keep the plants near 
the glass, or they will get drawn up so weakly 
as to lack their requisite vigour. The seed 
should always be well shaken or stirred with 
the hand after the lead is dusted on, so as to 
cause it to stick closely; then spread out thinly 
for a day or two to dry before sowing. It is the 
omission of the performance of these details that 
is so frequently the cause of failure. 


Plant labels.— Messrs. Gibbs & Co., Wood- 
bridge, submit to us a kind of label for plants 
and trees, made by them, which might be more 
largely used than at present. They are similar 
to the paper labels attached to Rose and fruit 
trees when received from the nurseries, but they 
are much stiifer, and are by some preparation 
rendered waterproof. They are very light and 
cheap, and when written on with waterproof ink, 
which is supplied with them, they will no doubt 
last perfect for a long time. 

China flower-pots.— These may be used 
for plants without any ill results to the plants 
growing in them, but they will not do as well as 
the common clay ones, as they are impervious to 
either air or moisture, whilst the common ones 

ti i Go gle 


are porous, and so conduce to the health and 
well-being of the plants in them by admitting 
both air and moisture to the roots. — W. G. 
Jewitt. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 


Chimonanthus fragrans — The delight¬ 
ful fragrance emitted by the blossoms of this 
Japanese shrub renders it a most desirable 
object in the garden, and especially as it 
blossoms in the winter season, when all else is 
destitute of bloom. A better plant for growing 
against a warm wall could scarcely be named, 
particularly if near a walk from which its fra¬ 
grance would be perceptible. It will grow in 
any kind of soil, and is perfectly hardy, though 
it likes the protection of a wall, and besides in 
such a position the blooms can receive some 
slight covering when frost happens to be severe. 
C. grandiflora has larger flowers than C. fragrans, 



Winter-flowering Shrub (Chimonanthus fragrans). 

but both are desirable. C. pauciflora has smaller 
flowers than those of the type, and in C. lutea 
the flowers are yellow, both inside and outside, 
instead of crimson in the interior, as in the other 
forms. These may all be raised by cuttings 
inserted in sand under a bell-glass in a gentle 
hotbed.—G. 

-This shrub has been in fine condition on 

the south coast; having had a protracted spell of 
tolerably mild weather, this and other winter- 
flowering plants have expanded an unusually 
fine display of bloom. But it is not so much 
the beauty as the delightful fragrance of this 
plant that makes it so much prized. I have 
frequently been arrested by the fragrance before 
I have seen the plants, for they grow to a large 
size; and many plants that have been in years 
gone by trained to walls have eventually been 
allowed to grow in their natural form, some 
of them many feet above the walls and ex¬ 
tending far out from it with branches 
laden with flowers. It is of too stiff a habit 
of growth to conform to close wall training, 
for if pruned in closely the flowering wood is 
cut off, but when allowed to grow unchecked it 
flowers freely on every spray. There is no diffi¬ 
culty as to growing this plant, as it is quite 
hardy in colder localities than this, but it is only 
in the mildest parts of the kingdom that it 
flowers satisfactorily aa an open-air shrub; but 
is well worthy of cultivation in sheltered nooks 
and corners, as with but little attention as to 
protection its flowers may be enjoyed by any 
one fond of perfumed flowers, for if kept dry 
the blossoms will withstand a good deal of cold. 
Unfortunately the blossoms are not well adapted 
for decoration, hut I have seen them used in 
saucers, or very shallow flower stands with very 
good effect, at least when delicate perfume and 
sombre colours arc appreciated more than bril¬ 
liant colouring.— James Groom, Srafeld, Got. 
part. 

Planting Bhrubs near walks.— I find a 
very common error repealed daily in gardens 
both large and small, viz., of planting shrubs 


too close to the margins of walks, so that before 
they make much growth they have to be cut or 
clipped, and thereby are robbed of more than 
half their beauty. In this locality the ruthless 
gales of wind are the great enemy the trees have 
to contend with, for where exposed to its fury 
they get quite defaced in those places exposed to 
westerly gales; but in sheltered spots they grow 
most luxuriantly, the atmosphere being mild 
and balmy. The shrubs in highest favour are 
the Euonymus, Laurustinus, Bay, Aucuba, Box, 
and others of medium growth, and in the villa 
gardens, that are usually of moderate extent, 
the usual plan is to plant divisional lines, both 
between the villa gardens and also next to the 
footways, so as to give a furnished aspect at 
once to the place. These pretty shrubs with 
glistening foliage look bright and cheerful at 
all times of the year, and look none the worse 
for the blowings and drenchings to which they 
are so frequently subjected on the coast; but 
wherever it is possible all shrubs and trees 
should get plenty of space to develop into their 
natural form, as it is impossible to improve on it 
by clipping or cutting There is no better way 
of showing shrubs to advantage than that of 
planting them either as single specimens or in 
irregular groups on the grass. Here they can 
extend at will, the lower shoots resting on the 
turf. A group of Berberis Darwini is really 
a lovely object when in flower or covered with 
purple berries, and amongst deciduous shrubs 
the Weigcliaa are very handsome; only give 
them room to extend so that neither knife nor 
shears are requir¬ 
ed, and there is 
little fear but 
that they will 
prove beautiful 
objects. — J. 
Groom, Ootport. 

9114.—Aucu¬ 
ba berries. — 
There is little 
after all to be 
said as to getting 
berries on to Au- 
cubas; the requi¬ 
sites are, a few 
female bushes— 
and almost all 
the common va¬ 
riegated Aucubas 
are female—and 
near them plant 
a male plant. The 
pollen of the 
latter will be 
carried by the 
wind and insects 
several yards, in¬ 
deed, often many 
yards, to ferti¬ 
lise the female 
flowers. If there be no male plant near, then 
pollen should be purchased or obtained from 
some one who has a male plant, and this, packed 
in white paper and placed in a small box, may 
be sent by post, and be used with a small brush 
to fertilise the flowers on the female plants.— 
A. D. 

- This question was asked and answered 

by several correspondents in the early part of last 
summer. I was one who suggested a plan, of 
which I knew nothing except what I had been 
told, and that was to cut off the flowers from the 
male plant and tie little bits (for they are on 
several slender stalks) to the flowers of the 
female plant, and as I afterwards tried the ex¬ 
periment, I am now enabled to give the result. 
On some of the bushes I tied at least two dozen 
sprigs of flowers, and at the present time those 
bushes are covered with fine scarlet berries, 
many clusters containing as many as seven 
berries. A neighbour adopted the plan of 
havingthemaleplantsin pots, and he moved them 
about where he wished the berries produced : he, 
too has been very successful. The matter is so 
simple that an article on the subject is not 
needed. My plan requires patience, as the tying 
on of minute stalks to a large-leaved shrub 
is rather a tedious and back-breaking operation, 
that is if done thoroughly, and unless it iB 
done thoroughly it will not be successful.— 
J. L., Smith Hill. 

- To get berries on Aucuhas, plant a male plant 

(plain leal) close to female plant (variegated lent).— 

RSITY OF Kl 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



32 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 17, 1883, 


9358.— Propagating Oaks. —Variegated 
Oaks cannot be propagated either by seed or cut¬ 
tings, as the plants they produce invariably turn 
green; therefore they must be grafted on young 
green plants of the same genus. Oak stocks, if 
of fair size, may be cleft-grafted in March, or if 
small, they should be side-grafted in August, 
with shoots of half-ripened wood of the variega¬ 
ted variety.—A. H. C. Watson, Copthorne. 


WOEK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

Lawns. —The present is a very good time 
for fo rming lawns, particularly if turf is to be 
laid down. The end of this month or the first 
week in April would be better for sowing grass 
seeds, though of course the ground can be 
drained, levelled, and otherwise prepared at 
once. It must be borne in mind that grass 
always flourishes best upon a thoroughly open, 
porous, and fairly well drained soil. Turf laid 
upon close, heavy, or soapy ground seldom does 
well, and is always slippery and easily destroyed 
by the smallest amount of wear. So be very 
particular, when making a new lawn, whether in 
town or country, to have the ground well 
drained and well digged, and if it is very close 
or holding in texture, it should be lightened, 
particularly just below the surface, by a liberal 
mixture of some coarse open matter, such as fine 
brick or mortar rubbish, ashes, &c. For seed 
sowing, prepare the ground in exactly the same 
manner, but the surface should be covered with 
some very finely sifted soil, and when the seed 
is sown, give a very slight covering of the same. 


Trees and shrubs.— All kinds of shrubs 
and trees may also be successfully planted from 
the present time till the end of April; plant at 
once in surburban localities, but in very large 
towns, where the air is very bad, it will be well 
to defer the operation for another month. Dig 
n at once any manure that was placed upon the 
borders in the autumn in readiness for sowing 
or planting for the summer display. Where 
there is a difficulty in getting other things to 
grow, sow at once plenty of Sunflower, common 
Marigold, and Evening Primrose (CF.nothera 
biennis or grandiflora) seed; these will grow and 
flower freely in fairly rich soil, where hardly 
anything else will do so. 

Greenhouse.— In the greenhouse, frames, 
&c., look well to the advancing seedlings of 
Pyrethrum, Lobelia, Petunia, and other things 
previously directed to be sown. These should 
now be well up, and will need constant attention 
for some time, or they will come to a standstill 
or go off altogether. An even and moderate 
state of moistnre must be maintained, water 
should not be given till required, then give a 
thorough supply. This should be done as far as 
possible on a fine morning, so that all may be 
dry again before night. If damping occurs give 
less water, and more air and sun. If the surface 
becomes hard and caked, it must be pricked up, 
and a little fresh surfacing is a great help. In 
this case, as well as where the seedlings are very 
thick, it is advisable to prick them off, as soon 
as large enough to be handled, into boxes of 
light soil, an inch or so apart. Freshly struck 
cuttings of all sorts are also much better potted 
off as soon as fairly rooted; they will do much 
better thus than if left long in the cutting pots. 
Keep all growing by a fairly moist and genial 
atmosphere at 60° to 65°, or thereabouts, with 
air for a few hours on fine days. It is not yet 
too late for a sowing of Petunias and Verbenas; 
stocks may still be sown, but Asters are better 
left till quite the end of the month. Now is the 
time to put in seed of Primula sinensis for early 
blooming; with the help of a frame and a green¬ 
house, however small, these can be grown almost 
anywhere. Cut back and put in cuttings of all 
kinds of 

Zonal Pelargoniums that have become at all 
overgrown. The old plants will break freely 
now, and the tops will root freely in well-drained 
pots of sandy soil placed on a dry airy shelf. 
No plants do better, under glass particularly, or 
make more of a glare in a smoky atmosphere, 
than these. Put in cuttings of Fuchsias, pot off 
singly in sandy loam and leaf-mould anvalready 
rooted, and shake out and repot old plants that 
have been pruned and are breaking again. 
Abutilons sre fine town plants. These need 
much the same treatment as Fuchsias, at least 
for the present. A few of these should be grown 
in every greenhouse, as they grow very freely, 
are no trouble, and/the foliag" aavfell>as the 


flowers is extremely handsome. Pay great 
attention to Campanula grandiflora and others 
of the drooping varieties, the long pendent 
growths covered with the beautiful blue blooms 
give a splendid effect when placed in a hanging 
basket or pot. 

Cinerarias will be opening nicely now, and 
should be assisted by a good supply of water 
and liquid manure, and a shower from the 
syringe overhead on fine mornings. Be sure to se¬ 
cure a good supply of Helichrysums (Everlasting 
Flowers); they are very easily raised, and succeed 
admirably both in pots and the open ground. 
Schizanthus papilionaceus and Salpiglossis of 
sorts make very pretty objects grown in pots; 
they should be sown in the pots in which they 
are to flower, and thinned out to five or seven 
plants in each. 

Plants In rooms, such as scarlet 
Geraniums, Myrtles, Ficus, etc., will now be 
commencing to make growth, and will need more 
water, particularly on a sunny day. Arum (Calla) 
Lilies should be showing flower; any that do not 
may be induced to bloom by keeping them 
somewhat dry for a time, but as soon as the 
bloom is perceived, abundance of moisture must 
be afforded, as these plants are naturally almost 
aquatic. B. C. R. 


FRUIT, 

9369.— Grubs in fruit trees. -The little 
grub that attacks “ \V. C.’s ” fruit trees so 
vigorously when the trees are in leaf is a little 
black-headed grub that curls itself into a leaf, 
and when disturbed it spins a line (like a spider) 
and lets itself to the ground by it. It is mostly 
found on land that has not been dug over for 
some years, and in winter it seems to secrete 
itself in the ground near the roots of the trees. 
It may be that the larva; of this grub is also 
buried in the ground during the winter. The 
only way to get rid of this pest is to syringe the 
trees at once with a mixture of lime and soot, 
which must be mixed together in water and 
afterwards strained through a coarse cloth or a 
line sieve, that it may the more readily go 
through the rose of the syringe. All the ground 
for some distance round the trees must be well 
watered with the same liquid. It will take two 
or three years to exterminate the grubs.—G. C., 
Eccles. 

-Grubs on orchard trees and fruit 

bushes will sometimes be sufficiently numerous 
to spoil a crop; but if a bonfire be made with 
dry sticks and weeds on the windward side of 
the orchard, so that the smoke may blow among 
the trees, you will destroy thousands, for grubs 
have such an objection to smoke that very little 
of it makes them roll themselves up and fall off. 
They must be swept up afterwards.— Celeb et 
Audax. 

-Hand-picking is one of the best remedies 

for the destruction of maggots and grubs on 
fruit trees. A good smoking by burning damp 
refuse beneath the trees is also very effective. 
Syringing with a strong solution of Quassia chips 
in water may be of some sendee, but after all 
the chief means of destruction must be found in 
patient hand-picking. This is just a case where 
help from the birds might be looked for, but just 
where they fail to show their assumed useful¬ 
ness.—D. 

9389.— Melons not Betting — “ M. T.” 
complains that he cannot get his Melons to set, 
although he is successful in other parts of their 
culture. As a rule Melons set freely in summer 
when plenty of air can be admitted into the 
frames, as the honey bees getting free access to 
the blossoms fertilise them by carrying the 
pollen on their legs and bodies from the male to 
the female blossoms. The blossoms are, however, 
quite distinct, and may be readily distinguished 
by the female blossoms having embryo fruits at 
their base, and in the early part of the season 
Melons must be artificially set or impregnated, 
or they will turn yellow and fail to swell. The 
best plan to set the fruit is by means of a 
camel-hair brush, going over the blossoms in 
the middle of the day when the atmosphere is 
dry. It is very essential to set blossoms enough 
for a crop as near as possible at the same time, 
for if one or two fruits start swelling, it is use¬ 
less setting the successional fruits; the best 
plan is to remove the blossoms entirely until a 
good lot flower simultaneously, then fertilise more 
than are required for a crop, and as soon as they 


begin to swell thin them out to the required 
number. Four or five fruits is a good crop for a 
plant.—J. Gboom, Gotport. 

HOUSE AND WINDOW GAEDENING. 

FLOWERS AND PLANTS IN ROOMS. 
Wild Primroses may be used in a variety of 
ways, and are always enjoyable in rooms. They 
do well in a broad, deep dish, or shallow bowl, 
placed as simply and naturally as possible, by 
gathering them up a few at a time with the 
heads uneveD, placing them in the dish, then 
putting some wet Moss against the stalks to 
keep them steady, then more flowers, and so on 
till the dish is full, whole crowns of leaves, cut 
with a bit of root, being placed irregularly 
among the flowers. The Moss at the stalk ends 
also serves to keep the flowers more apart. Two 
or three extra hands can greatly help by gather¬ 
ing up and handing the Primroses in a continual 
supply. A little of the Moss showing here and 
there is an improvement, but it must be care¬ 
fully chosen and not overdone. We sometimes 
so fill a round glass milk-pan 2 feet in diameter, 
and even in so large a space, if rightly done, 
the effect is not monotonous. A good deal de¬ 
pends on the choice and placing of the foliage; 
at the time of picking, if it is intended to dress 
so large a bowl, we take up two or three hand¬ 
some plants with large foliage and long-stalked 
flowers to be worked in near the centre. Such an 
arrangement does well on a large hall table, and 
is a pleasant greeting on entering a house. 
Single scarlet Anemone fulgens are arranged in 
cream-coloured glazed pottery with their own 
leaves, and placed near a sunny window. In 
picking from a bed of Anemones, those latest 
blown, and therefore most durable, may be 
known by the fringe of bracts being high np 
near the flowers. One or two clusters of Veitch's 
hybrid Rhododendrons, rosy pink and pale blush, 
are grouped with golden-green twigs of Kalmia 
latifolia in white china. A tall glass holds Arum 
Lilies ; to save cutting their own we use foliage 
of wild Arum, whole groups of leaves being 
pulled up together; in this way they live well 
in water. A polished brass flower-holder of cir¬ 
cular shape has in the centre a pot of Deutzia. 
and round it as thickly as they can be placed are 
pots of Scilla siberica, all well carpeted with 
fresh Moss. G. T. 8. 


Calceolarias in windows.— I read in 
Gahdeninc. about two years ago a hint on 
growing shrubby Calceolarias, but I had no 
garden and thought I would try it in my window. 
I therefore filled a 5-inch pot with sandy loam 
and leaf-mould, and in September I put in the 
pot seven young shoots. I put the pot into a 
larger ODe, and on the top put a piece of glass. 
I covered it up when frost came, and I got 
seven fine young plants in April. I shifted them 
into 5-inch pots, using sandy' loam, leaf- 
mould, and horse manure. Every one did well, 
and I took first prize with one at a show. Never 
let them get dry.—J. M. 

9289.— Orange trees— The plant in ques¬ 
tion seems to have made very little growth in¬ 
deed. An orange from Beed should attain a 
height of 3 feet or 4 feet in five or six years. 
For one thiDg, it is in too large a pot; a 3|-inch 
or 4-inch would be quite large enough. Oranges 
like a light peaty loam, with some sand, the soil 
rammed firm, and good drainage. They should 
be kept rather dry in winter, at which time the 
temperature of an ordinary sitting room, or 45° 
or 50° degrees at night, is quite sufficient. 
During the growing season, however, a warm 
moist greenhouse temperature of about 70° is a 
great assistance to a free healthy growth, with 
a free supply of water at the roots.—B. C. R. 

9300.— Geraniums dying oflf.— Probably 
too much heat and water and not enongh air 
and light. Keep them dry, and close to the 
window, which should be opened on every fine 
day for a time.—B. C. R. 


Camellias and canaries.— It may in¬ 
terest some of the readers of Gardening to 
know that Camellias and canaries will stand the 
winter and thrive in the open air in Surrey. I 
have a Camellia tree now in full bloom in my 
garden. It was planted out about two and 
a half years ago, and although my gardener 
assured me the first frost would kill it, it has 




March 17, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


33 



done well without the slightest protection. 
Mr canaries have been in an outdoor aviary fonr 
or five winters with only a protection of matting 
from the north when the wind is very cold. They 
have a good thatched roof, bnt otherwise are 
quite exposed. I have frequently seen them en¬ 
joying their bath when snow has been on the 
ground. They now daily delight us with a full 
choir of song, and are just beginning to make 
their nests.—R. N. S. 


SHOT PLANTS 

(CANNA8). 

For the decoration of the flower garden in 
summer these cannot well be overrated; 
they are of easy culture, quickly increased, and 
wonderfully effective, both before and when they 
are in flower, and the variety and colour of both 
foliage and flowers are very great, though some 
are better than others. All the, varieties grow and 
flower freely in the open air from June to 
October. They produce the best effects when 
planted in masses, the taller ones in the centre, 
and those that aredwarfer out¬ 
side. They also look well alter¬ 
nated at wide distances apart 
with large plants of variegated 
Abutilons or Acacia lophantha. 

They attain the greatest perfec¬ 
tion in deep, light, rich soil (a 
peaty loam with plenty of stable 
manure in it is best): they 
also do moderately well in 
suffer soil provided the drain¬ 
age is good. To get up a stock 
quickly the best way is to raise 
them from seeds, which, if sown 
in bottom - heat at once, will 
make useful plants for putting 
out in June next. Seedlings 
do not always come true; there- 
fore when it is desired to re¬ 
tain any given variety, recourse 
must be had to division, an 
operation which may be per¬ 
formed any time before the 
roots start into growth; the 
portions separated should be 
potted in small pots and started 
into growth in heat. In dry 
soils in the south of England 
the roots winter safely in the 
beds if the surface be mulched 
with Bracken or Cocoa-nut 
fibre ; but in less favoured dis¬ 
tricts and soils they shonld be 
lifted after the first severe 
frost occurs in autumn, and 
packed in dry soil in frost-proof 
sheds or cellars. The follow¬ 
ing are a few of the best 
varieties, via., aurantiaca, mag- 


to furnish bloom nearly all the year round is 
the scarlet - flowered Honeysuckle (Lonicera 
semperflorens). This is nearly hardy; in fact, 
has stood well on a wall outdoors all the winter, 
and is now showing bloom. In a greenhouse it 
will flower freely. The flowers are borne in 
small clusters on long stems, and are very 
enduring in water. There is danger that any 
climber would get unduly drawn on a back wall 
beneath Vines, but that must be borne with, as 
it cannot be avoided.—D. 

9364.— Lapagerlas from seed. — The 

seed will germinate freely in a cool house or 
frame if sown in well-drained pots of sandy 
peat, covering the soil with Moss and keeping 
the same damp until germination takes place. 
Even under good culture, from three to five 
years will elapse before the young plants flower 
with any freedom, Lapagerias being of slow 
growth when young. By far the best way is to 
purchase a good plant, which will, if well treated, 
bloom with freedom the second year after 
planting.—J. C. B. 

9299.— Wlnterflowersforgreenhouse. 

—In the front rank of plants 
which bloom in a cool house in 
winter are the Chinese Primu¬ 
las, young plants of which 
should be put into small pots 
as early as they can be pro¬ 
cured in the summer, and 
shifted on as required. A frame 
or airy greenhouse suits them, 
as they like plenty of light at 
all times. Quite equal to the 
Primula is the Persian Cycla¬ 
men, of which there are now 
many beautiful white and high- 
coloured kinds, and if good 
thrifty young plants are pot¬ 
ted at once, they will bloom 
next winter. They like a cool, 
moist atmosphere in Bummer, 
with shade against hot sun, a 
light, sandy soil, and frequent 
sprinklings in hot dry weather. 
Paris Daisies are excellent for 
winter, notably the yellow- 
flowered Etoile d'Or. Grow 
out of doors in Bummer, pick¬ 
ing off all buds during July 
and August. Winter-flowering 
Tropmolums arc very bright, 
and shonld be grown along 
freely all the summer, train¬ 
ing them to the rafters early 
in September. In the warm 
house may be grown Epipbyl- 
lums, winter - flowering Bego¬ 
nias such as Ingrami, nitida, 
semperflorens, rosea, and mani- 
cata, Abutilons, Heliotropes, 
and Zonal Geraniums, which, 
grown without blooming all the 
summer in the open, will flower 
in winter in a temperature of 
65°. In the case of the Cycla¬ 
mens the better plan would be 
to grow them in the warm 
house all the spring, removing 
them to cool quarters by June. 
Give them a light position so that they do not 
draw, and they grow along nicely; and be 
ready to shift into larger pots by the middle 
of July. Good clumps oi Christmas Roses lifted 
and potted in October bloom beautifully nnder 
glass in December, and Lilacs, Spiraea japonica, 
bulbs, Lily of the Valley, and Dielytra specta- 
bilis may be brought along in the warm house. 
—J. C. B. 

9326.— Cockscombs for exhibition.— 
The International or Glasgow Prize are good sorts 
for exhibition. But in growing handsome combs 
a good deal more depends on cultivation than 
on the selection of seed. Last year I saw Cocks¬ 
combs which were grown successfully for exhi¬ 
bition. They were not grown as is generally the 
case, that is, starving them in their earlier stages 
of growth so as to make them comb, but they 
were encouraged by liberal treatment and at¬ 
tention to grow without check, picking off in¬ 
ferior combs, giving them shifts until 7-inch or 
8-ioch pots were reached, then allowing them to 
get pot-bound, so as to encourage the comb to 
form. When you have got a handsome comb, you 
must improve the plant, which will be far too 
tall, what is wanted is dwarf plants. These are 

CJHB A N A- CH AMP A1GN 


nitica, peruviana, gigantea ma¬ 
jor, nigricans, Premicesde Nice, 
iridiflora, and Warscewiczi. One 
of the noblest and most beauti¬ 
ful amongst recent additions 
to Cannas is C. iridiflora 
Khemanni, of which we here¬ 
with give an illustration. 

Cannas are, as a rule, very stately plants, but 
this one excels them all in that respect, for 
not only is its foliage bold and ornamental, but 
its blossoms are very lovely. It would be diffi¬ 
cult to imagine a more charming object than a 
well-grown specimen of this plant, such as we 
have seen in the garden at Pendell Court, Bletch- 
iogley. Here it occupies the margin of a large 
tank, planted on a raised mound of good soil, so 
that its roots have free access to the water, and 
being associated with other large aquatic and 
sub-aquatic plants, and itself rising from a 
carpet of the feathery foliage of Herpestis 
reflcxa (Myriophyllum proscrpinacoides), it pro¬ 
duces a striking effect. It would no doubt 
succeed out of doors as well as other kinds, if 
good plants were put out to start with. 


Canna growing on the margin of a tank in a warm greenliou e. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


9292. — Oyolamen culture. — The seed 
should be sown in August, so that the young 
plants become strong by the winter, for although 
many sow in warmth in December or Janu 
nnd grow the young seedlings Jnto 
blooming specimens in ten Vpoi|t(ipJthif 


described. Begonias also would do very little 
good, except perhaps a few of such kinds as 
Weltoniensis and the old Begonia discolor, which 
might just be kept alive through the winter, and 
make a little show in summer. It might be 
possible, with care, to keep alive some of the 
hardier foliaged Begonias also, which would 
flourish in such a moist, shady spot during the 
summer months. No plants can be induced to 
flower during the winter season without light, 
and as much of it as can be got too, in our 
climate. Primulas, if well grown and strong, 
may be taken as an exception ; but even these 
would not flower as they would in a lighter and 
more genial situation. Towards the spring time 
Hyacinths and Tulips, Ac., would make the 
house gay; Camellias would also be very suitable 
for such a place, but could not be expected to I 
bloom before March or April. On the whole,! 
however, I should strongly recommend putting 
sufficient hot-water pipes in to keep the house up 
to 55° or 60°, and filling it with Palms, Ferns, 
Begonias, Ac., which would succeed well in Buch 
a temperature —B. C. R. 

9352.— Climber for winter blooming: 

—One of the very be-t of greenhouse climbers I 


no means the easiest and most economical plan, 
involving, as it does, a constantly high tem¬ 
perature during the spring months. With 
strong young plants having bulbs about the size 
of a pea, and with from two to three leaves, 
good success may be obtained under quite cool 
culture. Sow in a well-drained pan in sandy 
peat and leaf-mould, and keep moist until the 
seed germinates. When the young plants are 
large enough to handle, prick out about 2 inches 
apart, which will be room enough for them until 
February or the beginning of March, when 
they must be carefully put into very small pots, 
using two-thirds leaf-mould and one-third loam. 
Keep the soil nicely moist, shade from hot sun, 
and give plenty of air in warm weather. By 
the middle of July the pots will be full of 
roots, when they may be shifted into larger 
pots. During the summer, a cool, moist atmo¬ 
sphere should, as far as possible, be maintained. 
—J. C , Byjlret. 

9271.— Plants for cool greenhouse in 
bad aspect. —It would be quite impassible to 
grow Tuberoses in such a house as the one 






















34 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 17, 1883. 


obtained by cutting off the combe with part of 
the steins, leaving a sufficient amount of foliage 
to make them ornamental; inserting them in 
a smaller sized pot, and placing them in a brisk 
heat—a hotbed if possible—they will root in a 
very short time. 1 have, however, seen very 
handsome combs grown in the ordinary way. 
March is a good time to sow the seed. A Melon 
frame is a good place for them in their early 
stages.— Kibkton. 

9329.—Bouvardias.— After flowering (in 
winter) harden off by keeping ratber dry in a 
cool airy house for three or four weeks. Then 
cut out all weak shoots, and shorten back the 
stronger ones, more or less according to the in¬ 
crease desired in the size of the plant. Still 
keep cool, airy, and dry, and at this stage clean 
thoroughly from all traces of aphis or scale, so 
as to give the young growths a good start. 
When the plants break give cool greenhouse 
treatment, syringing overhead frequently to 
encourage free growth. When the shoots are 
an inch or two in length, shake out and repot, 
keeping close for a week or two subsequently. 
Stop the shoots at 4 inches to 6 inches in length, 
as often as requisite, and if larger plants are 
required, shift into pots 3-inch or 4-inch larger 
when the first are getting full of roots. Place 
out of doors for a month in August or Septem¬ 
ber, to ripen the growth, and bring under cover 
again at the end of September. They will flower 
freely in a somewhat moist temperature of 50° 
to 60°. We have a large house full of plants, 
3 feet to 4 feet high which succeed admirably 
under the above treatment, and yield a large 
quantity of bloom through the winter. We find 
Vreelandi and Hogarthi the most useful kinds. 
Soil sandy loam with a little leaf soil and 
decayed manure.—B. C. R. 

9310 — G-onista not growing. —Probably 
the soil has become sodden. When Genistas 
get so much out of health, the only thing is to 
repot, cut back hard, and start in a moist heat. 
But there is nothing like healthy young plants 
that have never had a check, and perhaps the 
best thing to do would be to throw it away and 
get another. Try placing it out of doors.— 
B. C. E. 

9319.— Abutilons growing lanky.— 

Harden the plants off by giving abundance of 
air and but little water for a month. Then cut 
the plants down to within 9 inches of the soil, 
and place them in a close, warm, and moist 
house, where, if not over-watered at the root, 
but sprinkled overhead frequently in bright 
weather, they will soon break into fresh growth. 
Put the tops in as cuttings; these will do well 
under the same conditions.—B. C. R. 

9386.— Manure for Carnations in 
pots. —Clay’s fertiliser is an admirable manure 
for Carnations in pots, and should be used by 
scooping out half-an-inch depth of the surface- 
soil, sprinkling in some manure, and then adding 
fresh soil. By this plan the manure is gradually 
worked down to feed the roots. If Carnations 
can have some compost of good, fresh turfy 
loam, a little sand, and rotten manure from a 
Cucumber bed, they will need but little other 
stimulus.—D. 

9416. — Amaryllis belladonna. — The 

Belladonna Lily has the peculiarity of throwing 
up its flower-stalks when devoid of leaves. I 
have successfully flowered it in pots, treated as 
follows: The bulbs had been planted in a south 
border in a very sheltered position, where for 
many years they grew luxuriantly. The bulbs 
seemed to increase in strength, but they never 
flowered; accordingly, some of the bulbs were 
potted singly in 5-inch pots in ordinary potting 
soil early in the spring, and were placed in a 
vinery prior to the house being fired, which 
would be about the middle of February. This 
warm, moist temperature appeared to suit them 
remarkably well, as they soon shot forth their 
leaves and grew very fast. When, however, the 
leaves were nearly full-grown they were given 
greenhouse temperature, and were kept in the 
sunniest part, where their leaves soon withered 
and droppedoff, when they were given only water 
enough to keep the bulbs from shrivelling, and 
towards the end of September they threw up 
their flower-spikes. They require being watered 
pretty freely after the flowers begin to rise until 
they open; also, when they are making their 
leaf-growth a little liquid manure now and then 
would help them/^-©. P. 

Digitized by GO^glC 


9413.— Sowing tender seeds.— To secure 
plants of Balsams, Cockscombs, Asters, and Ten- 
week Stocks in bloom at the end of August, 
seed of the first should be sown under glass 
about the middle of April, the plants to be 
grown on rapidly and as strong as possible. Cocks¬ 
comb seed should be sown in a gentle warmth at 
the end of the present month. The plants will re¬ 
quire a gentle warmth for some time, also plenty 
of air, and must be kept near the glass to keep 
them dwarf. Reed of Asters should be sown 
under glass for transplanting the first week in 
April, and Ten-week Stock seed at the end of 
April, as these latter bloom early, unless in deep 
holding soil. Perhaps another sowing in May 
would be safer.—A. D. 

9348.—Azaleas.—It is a disputable point 
amongst growers whether premature growths 
should be removed or not. On the whole, I in¬ 
cline to think it is advisable to remove them, 
especially if they appear much before the bloom 
expands, as they not only spoil the shape of the 
plant, but rob the bud of nourishment, some¬ 
times so much so as to cause it to fall before 
opening.—B. C. R. 

9350.— Plants for warm greenhouse. 

—In winter, Primulas, single and double (on 
shelves near the glass), Zonal Geraniums, Bou¬ 
vardias, Azaleas, Cyclamens, Heliotropes, 
Spirreas, &c„ with a plant or two of Hoya, 
Plumbago, and even Stephanotis, to make a show 
in the summer. All the above will do well and 
bloom the winter through. In summer fill the 
place with Gloxinias, Achimenes, Begonias, both 
fine-leaved and flowering; nothing can be more 
beautiful or suitable for such a house. Many 
Orchids would also flourish under such treat¬ 
ment as would be suitable for the above.— 
B. C. R. 

9346.— Pinching Chrysanthemums.— 

It is entirely optional whether the plants be 
pinched or not, only bear in mind that if you 
pinch frequently you get a more dwarf and 
bushy plant, with a greater number of blooms, 
though these will not be of nearly so fine a 
quality or so large as if the growth were never 
stopped. Let the shoots run up and you have 
very tall plants with a comparatively few very 
fine flowers upon them. Plants become bare at 
the base of the stems from want of nourishment 
chiefly, i.e., from insufficiency of either manure 
or water, or perhaps both, while growing.— 
B. C. R. 

9281. — Calceolarias suddenly col¬ 
lapsing. —This is a very common complaint 
with the herbaceous Calceolaria. The cause is as 
follows: When the sun gains power in the 
spring and the plants are exposed to its in¬ 
fluence, as of course occurs in such position, 
they wilt or flag badly, being of a very suc¬ 
culent nature; the grower immediately comes 
to the conclusion that water is needed, and 
gives a full supply. This the plant in its ex¬ 
hausted condition cannot absorb, the soil 
becomes at once waterlogged, and the plant 
succumbs. The herbaceous Calceolaria is es¬ 
sentially a shade-loving plant—at least in 
bright weather. The gleam of sun we get from 
the end of October till the end of February will 
do the plants good, but after this date they must 
be carefully shaded from all bright sunshine, 
and the temperature should be kept down to 
about 50° or 65°, with a moist atmosphere rather 
than much water at the roots. Again, these plants 
are often moved into large flowering pots too 
late, and the roots have not fully occupied the 
mass of fresh soil when the flowering occurs. 
Get them well established by February, and keep 
cool, moist, and shady when coming into flower, 
and all will be well.—B. C. R. 


VEGETABLES. 


9288.— Onion grub. —Nitrate of soda should 
be applied at the rate of 4 cwt. to the acre, or, 
for safety, rather less than that quantity, but 
not more than three times in the season, and 
only when the foliage is dry. If given before a 
shower so much the better, otherwise it should 
be watered in. Wherever nitrate touches a wet 
spot on the foliage it bums or shrivels it. Soot 
and salt applied in the proportion of 2 cwt. of 
clean soot to the acre as a broadcast dressing 
will tend to prevent the fly, but it should be done 
early in the season. After the Onions are at¬ 
tacked they cannot be saved; but by destroying 


all infested plants the second crop of grubs will 
be prevented. The author of a book entitled 
“ Garden pests and their eradication ’’ writes 
that he once applied gypsum at the rate of a ton 
to the acre during dry weather, and the cure was 
effectual, but the ground had to be hoed after 
the first rain. It is a cheap remedy if it be 
found to answer generally; but as to this the 
author states he cannot speak, as he had only 
one chance of using it. The grubs were all dead 
in the plants about a couple of days after the 
application.— Celeb et Audax. 

9347.— Failure In Celery.— The chief 
reason why Celery comes pithy, or as gardeners 
term it “ pipey,” is that the strain or sort is bad, 
and no cultivation can make it good ; in fact, 
if manured with such stuff as blood from 
a slaughter-house, Celery would certainly be de¬ 
moralised. Get seed of the dwarf white Incom¬ 
parable, Leicester Red, 8ulham Prize, or other 
good sorts, and sow it under glass, but where 
the plants will not get drawn, as that is one step 
to hollow stems. Unless the soil is deep and 
good, the trenches should be shallow, and have 
in them about 4 inches of stable manure, which 
should be forked in before the plants are put 
out. It is better to induce Celery to grow 
slowly and solid rather than to force it to be¬ 
come lanky and useless.—A. D. 

-The Celery has been rendered unfit for 

table by mistaken kindness in the indiscriminate 
application of stimulating manures. Plants can 
take up only a certain amount of nutriment, 
and when this is applied in excessive quantities 
it often proves injurious and always useless. 
From your description some of your plants had 
“ piped,” or produced the rudiments of a flower- 
stalk, which is caused by a check in the early 
stages of growth. This should be carefuUy 
guarded against by never allowing the plants to 
suffer from drought or any sudden changes of 
temperature, and when transplanted not a single 
leaf should be allowed to flag. In preparing the 
trenches dig out the soil 6 inches deep and 15 
inches wide, and lay along the bottom 3 inches 
of pig manure, rotten enough to be chopped up 
readily with a spade. This should be dug in 
and well mixed with the soil, and the plants, 
each with a good ball of earth, be put in firmly 
with a trowel along the centre of the trench 9 
inches apart; water carefully and shade the 
plants till established. Give copious supplies of 
sofwvater in dry weather, but use no liquid 
manure or other strong stimulants.—J. Martin 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES, 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

9278.— Boiler for Greenhouse. — A saddle 
boiler would not be at all necessary for a house 
20 feet by 12 feet. If one were employed, a very 
small one indeed would be necessary. No. 2 
or 3 coil boiler (slow combustion) would be 
quite sufficient to heat the piping required, 
which would be about 100 feet, if I understand 
the query right. But the construction of the 
house must be somewhat peculiar to allow of 
the flow pipe going beneath the beds, and the 
return along the wall plate. The latter is usually 
much higher than the beds, while the return 
pipe must be lower than the flow or the water 
will not circulate. No. 2 coil or “ star ” boiler 
would consume three sacks of coke per week, if 
carefully fired, but it is quite impossible to say 
what quantity of fruit could be produced, so 
much depends upon the skill of the grower, the 
season, &c. Where a beginner might cut about a 
dozen fruit per week, a good hand (if fortunate) 
would probably get a hundred or more.—B.C. R. 

9378. — Greenhouse building.— The di¬ 
mensions given in reply to query No. 9405 will 
apply in this case, but a house 30 feet long may 
well be 12 feet in width, and rise up to a height 
of 10 feet at the back, to give a sharp run for 
the water. It is hardly desirable to carry the 
smoke from a boiler furnace through a flue 30 
feet in length beneath the floor, because what is 
gained in auxiliary heat may be more than lost 
in defective draught, and where hot water is to 
he heated a good draught is absolutely indis¬ 
pensable. A short chimney at the boiler end 
fitted with a damper would be less expensive, 
and prove far more satisfactory. Asphalte 
makes the best flooring for a greenhouse, the 
stages being of wood, trellis fashion, so that all 
water from the pots may pass freely away. If 





March 17, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


35 


undesirable to asphalte the whole of the floor, 
the space under the stages may be covered with 
line gravel, and the patbB only be asphalted.— 

A. D. 

9342— Heating- greenhouse for Cu¬ 
cumber growing. — Hot-water pipes are 
much better than a flue ; the latter gives off so 
dry a heat that it is almost an impossibility to 
keep the red spider away. A pair of 4-inch pipes 
along the front would be quite sufficient. These 
could doubtless be heated by the kitchen fire, 
but it would never do to have such a dip in 
the flow-pipes. Could yon not make a rise in 
the pipes instead 1 It would be infinitely better. 
It is the simplest matter in the world to fix hot- 
water pipes properly if you always bear in mind 
the following rules : First, to place the boiler as 
low as possible, so as to have a considerable rise 
to the level of the pipes ; secondly, for the flow- 
pipe to have a gentle upward inclination to the 
highest point, and the return to fall gently and 
regularly down to the boiler again. You may 
have a rise (up and down again) in the flow, or 
a dip (down and up again) in the return, with 
very little hindrance to the circulation, but not 
rice ter»a, or the current can never be depended 
upon.—B. C. R. 

9372.— Gao boiler.— It is scarcely possible 
for anyone to make his own boiler nnless he be 
a smith; and “ E. M.” should apply to a hot- 
water engineer used to gas boilers. It shonld 
be made of copper, not tin or iron, though there 
are some cheap things made of these materials, 
which may stand twelve months’ burning. The 
quantity of gas depends on the make of boiler 
and size of pipes to be used. If cast-iron pipes 
are used, they shonld not be more than 2 inches 
diameter, and four pipes will be necessary to 
secure 56° In a hard winter. For ordinary green¬ 
house purposes, two pipes and 40° to 45° is 
ample. The pipes are only required in front of 
a lean-to of the narrow width mentioned—6 feet. 
Not less than 10 feet of gas hourly for two pipes, 
or IS feet of gas for four pipes will require to be 
burnt.— B. W. Warhdrst. 

9405.— Lean-to greenhouse. —A lean-to 
greenhouse may be of any length, but height 
and width must depend upon the building 
against which it is to be erected. If 10 feet 
wide, the front should be 5 feet in height, and 
at the back 0 feet. The door, being one-third 
removed from the front, will be about 6 feet in 
height, and this will admit of a broad shelf, 
some 2£ feet in width, along the front of the 
house inside; then a path straight with the 
door, 2 feet wide, and behind that a stage rising 
with three or four shelves about 5 feet in width. 
That would make a capital amateur's green¬ 
house, especially if from 18 feet to 20 feet in 
length.—A. D. 

9305.— Raising seeds. —Many seeds will 
germinate perfectly in a moderately warm green¬ 
house without any bottom-heat whatever. 
Among these may be specified Lobelias, Petunias, 
Verbenas, Pyrethrums, Stocks, Pansies, Indian 
Pinks, Mimnli, Asters, Phlox Drummondi, and 
Palsams. The last three should not be sown 
before April, the others at any time now. Chry¬ 
santhemum cuttings should root freely in a quiet 
comer of the greenhouse; the pot should behalf 
filled with broken crocks, and plenty of sand be 
used on the surface, or they will damp off. If 
Ihey wilt badly, cover them with a bell or hand¬ 
glass. Read “ Work in the Town Garden ” in 
Gardening every week.—B. C. R. 

9423.— Common blue Iris.— This should 
be broken up and replanted about every three 
rears, late summer or early autumn being about 
the best time. These old neglected clumps are 
so unsightly that I should be for breaking up 
even now, renewing the soil or replanting else¬ 
where, taking some of the more vigorous outer 
pieces aDd planting in a group of three, which 
m a year's time will be a good clump and could 
stand two years. If it is desired to propagate a 
quantity of the Iris, the middle parts of the old 
roots will divide into a large number. They 
prefer a sunDy position.—G. 3. 

539".— Worms in lawns.— Add a pound of 
quicklime to a gallon of water, stir well; when 
rettled water with the clear liquid. This will 
tring all the worms to the surface, when they 
ran be picked up and destroyed. Guano or soot 
used in the same manner as lime-water are 
equally effective. Salt applied at the rate of 
eight bushels to the acre is efficacious in de¬ 
terring worms. An equal quantity 'fjw' 


mixed with salt makes a good dressing. Both 
should be applied in wet weather. Lime-water 
is, however, the cheapest in the end.— Celeb 
et Audax. 

- Mix ten pounds of newly-slaked lime 

with thirty gallons of water, stir it frequently, 
and let it stand to settle; when it has done so, 
draw off the clear water, and spread it freely 
over the lawn with a fine-rose watering-pot. The 
worms will then very quickly come to the 
surface, and may be swept up with a broom. 
This plan is most effectual in damp weather, 
as the worms then lie nearer the surface. The 
operation may be repeated until the worms 
disappear.—A. H. C. Watson, Copthome. 

9390.— Anthracite coal— Anthracite coal 
or culm is a hard, smokeless coal, raised in the 
neighbourhood of Swansea and Llanelly in 
South Wales, and is used for malting and green¬ 
house purposes on account of its freedoom from 
smoke and sulphur ; it requires a strong draught, 
but gives great heat. It is sent to all parts of 
the south and west of England and midland 
counties, and is to be obtained of the local coal 
merchants ; the price delivered varies from 10s. 
to 12s. per ton in the vicinity of the pits, to 24s. 
to 25s. in the more remote districts.— Coal 
Tbade. 

-I have frequently used anthracite coal 

for greenhouse fires, and its freedom from 
smoke and sulphur seem to me to render it 
particularly suitable for the purpose. The price 
in London is now about 22s. per ton, but at 
places nearer the South Wales coalflelds it 
would no doubt be less. When broken into little 
pieces I do not think there is a better fuel for 
stoves, certainly none cleaner or more lasting.— 
J. K., Hormey. 

9376.— Cucumber pit— A brick pit 12 feet 
in length may easily be divided by boards. The 
walls (4J inches) are too thin for f jrcing with¬ 
out the help of manure linings outside, but these 
would be of little service unless the walls were 
pigeon-holed. It will be wisest to wait till the 
middle of April; then nearly fill up the pit with 
hot stable manure, let it settle, add 9 inches of 
good loam in the middle, and plant out Cucum¬ 
ber and Melon plants. The sun will then render 
great assistance.—D. 

9452.— Winged Pea. —Seed of this is offered 
by Messrs. Vilmorin, 4, Quai de la M(gisserie, 
Paris. In their last catalogue (spring 1883) it 
appears as No. 31440, Lotier cultirtj, at forty 
centimes per packet. I should recommend a 
note to them enclosing seven English postage 
stamps, which they will accept. Sow in a sunny 
place in poor soil, or the handsome red and 
black flowers will be smothered in over much 
foliage.—G. J. 

9368.— Cropping a garden. — “ Young 
Beginner” should plant his garden with 
Potatoes this season, as there is not time now to 
lay it out and plant trees. He can have every¬ 
thing in readiness to start when the Potato crop 
is off the ground, and if he will get a volume of 
Gardening and peruse it at his leisure, he may 
get a pretty good idea what to do and how to go 
about it.—P. R. 

-“ A Young Beginner ” should cover the 

whole of his ground this season with Magnum 
Bonum, or some other late Potato, using at the 
time of planting a liberal supply of horse 
manure. This will bring the land into good 
heart, and it will also clear it of all rubbish, 
making it suitable for the planting of fruit trees 
or green crops next season.— G. C., Ecclef. 

9398.— Crops for wet land.— Black Cur¬ 
rants or Cabbages do as well as most things 
where there is a surfeit of moisture; but there 
should be some means of draining the land, or 
the earth will be cold and sour, and nothing will 
do well under such conditions. Willows might 
be grown if nothing else would succeed. —G. 
C., Eccles. 

9402. — Butohers Broom. — Butcher’s 
Broom is a common name for the family of 
Ruscus. The kind which grows wild in woods is 
Ruscus aculeatus, and may be propagated by 
suckers, or lifting and dividing the roots. That 
may be done now or in the autumn, taking 
special care not to injure the roots.—D. 

9412.— Ago of Hyacinths.— It is not 
possible to tell the age of Hyacinths, and it 
would serve no useful purpose if it were so. 
The bqlbs in the Dutch gardens take several 


years to grow to blooming size, but some sorts 
perfect their bloom heads quicker than others.— 
A. 

Crocuses In pots.— F.— See Gardkhino last week, 
March 10. 

Index to “ Gardening "—T. L.—K complete Index 
is Issued at the end of each volume, which terminates at 
the end of February, i he index for voL 4 will be ready 
next week, price Id., of all newsagents, IJd. post free. 

Cool Orchids.— E. T. A—It is difficult to keep an 
unheated structure at a lowor temperature than 66® 
during the summer months, and sometimes it may even 
reach 55°, but to give Odontoglossums a similar tempera¬ 
ture through the winter and spring months would simply 
ruin them. 

J/. A—Covers made of oiled calico.- Tyro .—You 

could have nothing better than Camellias for covering 
the walls, and now&agood time to plant,- P P.— Pro¬ 
bably you refer to Clematis lanuginosa.- G. Bartle and 

S. G. Gardner.—Try Messrs. Barr and Son, 12, King 
Street, Covent Garden.—A. //. A—All oil Btovea will 
produce the same effect unless there is Bomo means pro¬ 
vided for the fumes to escape. 

Cheshire.—See our advertising columns.-IF. Pick 

and Geum.— Mr. Ware, llale Farm Nurseries, Tottenham. 

- R. P.—Vie would advlso you to have nothing to do 

with such a stove in your greenhouse. It would bo far 
better to haves email boiler and hot-water pipes. 

Names of plants.— T. L.— 1, Primula capltata ; 2, 

Butcher's Broom (Ruscus aculeatus).- Cloves .—The 

Green HeUebore(nelleborusvlridus).- B. A—Anemone 

fulgsns.- C. S.—We do not name seeds.- A Sub¬ 
scriber. — No. 2 paper, we should say.- H. It. O .— 

The specimens sent were not good enough to ennble us 

to name them accurately.- Marigold.—The Winter 

Heliotrope (Tussilago fragrans). 


QUERIES. 

Rules for Correspondents.— AH communica¬ 
tions for insertion should oe clearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
and address of the tender is required , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. A muers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title qf the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each Mould 
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day qf publication , it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

9454. —Camellias out-of-doors. — Would anyone 
experienced in the growth of Caraelliaa out-of-doors tell 
me if one would be sure to grow and flower well as far 
north as Edinburgh, on a south wall quite protected from 
cast wind, and nearly so from west, and with a glass roof 
over it which projects 3 feet from the wall; the front edge 
of the roof is 10 feet from the ground. Hitherto I have 
had an Escallonia in this corner; it grows and flowers 
splendidly, but when the thermometer goes dowm to 6°, 
or lower, as it did last December, the leaves are quite 
killed, and at this season Instead of being evergreen, it is 
an unsightly object at the entrance door of the house. 
Would a Camellia do better? Which good flowering 
Camellia does best out-of-doors ?— Edinburgh. 

9455. —Analysis of manures —I Bhall be glad if 
some scientific reader will kindly Bupply me with an 
analysis of a few of the common manures, such as that 
from the cow, horse, and poultry, also guano, with the 
view to apply to my garden a manure which shall supply 
in a maximum degree those essential parts that it at present 
lacks. It is of a chalky nature, loose in texture, and but 
recently broken up. Potatoes and cabbage were grown 
upon it last year with poor result. Some notes in Gar¬ 
dening Illustrated upon the subject induce me to 
think that in order to make the ground available for 
general purposes, I must impart into its composition 
potash, alkalis, and sulphur.—B ariiam House. 

9456. — Heating” greenhouse.— Will some reader 
kindly explain what is meant by the statement often made 
in Gardening—“ Certain plants should not have more 
than 55° or 60° heat in the daytime ? ” This is the usual heat 
I keep my greenhouse at, but lately the sun has brought 
it to nearly 100*, and with a thin shading it was almost as 
high. I presume it would not be right to put such a 
thick shading as would make the whole structure dark, 
nor Is it convenient to let the fire out, and even that 
would not cool the house for a considerable time. I shall 
be anxious to have an explanation.— Leyton. 

9457. — Plants for sunless border.— In my garden 

there was a piece of very old mossy turf, which last 
spring we had dug up and made into a border. It faces 
north, so gets little or no sun, as the wall behind it is 
fully 6^ feet high. I tried Auriculas, Hepaticns, and 
double Primroses, but they have done badly. Would Nar¬ 
cissi, Snowdrops, and other bulbs succeed, or Christmas 
ltoses and Funkias? The ground gets covered with Moss, 
which frequently requires to be cleared off; would some¬ 
one suggest what would grow well on L. 

9458. — Tuberous Begonias.—I have a few tubers 
which I wish to put into the open border in June; they 
M ere imported last autumn. I have no greenhouse, but 
purpose making a hotbed at the end of this month. The 
tubers are just starting. Will someone kindly advise me 
whether I should pot the tubers now and endeavour to 
grow them on in a south window in a room where there 
is no lire, or whether I had better wait until I get my 
hotbed and start them in it? What is the best size of 
pot to commence with ?—R. F. 

9459. —Old Yew trees.— In a work on arboriculture 
published thirty-five years ago by Messrs. Chambers there 
is an account given of two very ancient Yew trees. One 
of these, growing in Brabourn churchyard, Kent, was 
said to be 3000 years old. The other, growing at Hcdsor, 
Buckinghamshire's described as the most ancient speci¬ 
mens of vegetation in Europe, iis age being given at 
3240 years. I should be glad if any readers of Gardening 



36 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 17, 1883. 


residing in the respective localities would kindly tell me 
whether or not those trees are still in existence.—J. 
Martin. 

9460. —Sulphate of Ammonia.—Can any reader 
give me any information on the uses of the above, what 
kind of garden crops it is most suitable for, and in 
what way it 6hould be used, whether in a dry or a liquid 
state, and in what quantities ? I have used it very success¬ 
fully for some kinds of flowers, especially for Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, and I think it might be used more extensively for 
the garden I find it can be bought at our gasworks for 
iiOs per cwt.—A. R. 

9461. —Potting Azaleas.—I have a single red 
Azalea just going out of flower; should I repot it at once 
before it starts into growth, and how much larger pot 
shall I put it into? I suppose I had better keep it in a 
sunny greenhouse. A semi-double pink Azalea, covered 
with buds, only develops them very slowly, and the 
flowers come very small. Does it want more warmth, or 
would a top-dressing with Clay’s fertiliser do it good ? 
How can I discover thrips?-L. D. 

9462. —Grafting" Lilacs.—Having read of the possi¬ 
bility of grafting the Lilac on the Ash, will some of 
your readers kindly inform me if Buch is the case, and 
also the right time to graft with a probability of success, as 
I have several young Ash trees in a situation where I 
should like to grow the Lilac.—H. G. P. 

9463. —Eucharis and Hibiscus.—Will someone 
be so good as to give me some hints how to manage the 
Eucharis and Hibiscus ; w r hat temperature they ought to 
be grown in, if they require much water, and when 
they ought to bloom, and when done blooming what 
ought to be done with them ?— Erin. 

9464. —Cheap] manure. — Will “Surgeon,” the 
writer of the paragraph in GARDENING, March 3, under 
the above heading, be good enough to say how he uses the 
liquid manure, that is, ho w much of it say to a gallon of 
water ? If any reader will advise me as to the best way 
to use fowl manure, I shall be glad. —Enquirer. 

9165.—Manure for Vine border.—I shall be glad 
to be informed what proportions of guano and water are 
to be used on my V Lne border (an inside one), which haB 
had no manure put on for two years ; also would a 
quantity of bones broken small and applied to the border 
be beneficial to the Vines.— Goodyear. 

9466. —Cutting back Clematiftes.—I read in Gar- 
t.knino that Clematises should be cut down in March to 
about 18 inches from the ground. My Clematis on a 
wall is now showing leaf-buds as high os it grows, which 
is about 20 feet. 8hould I still cut it down ? It did not 
flower well last )ear.—BUMBLE BEK. 

9467. —Solanums. — Would some person say how 
Solanums should be treated w hen the berries have faded 
in order to insure success next Beason? I find when 
placed out-of-doors in Bunimer the berries soon drop off 
when brought into heat.—M agdalene. 

0468.—Strawberries dying.—I got loo plants of 
Strawberries last September from a first-rate garden 
establishment; they appeared to take well, but now are 
all dead ; they were planted In September last. What is 
the cause of failure?— General. 

9469. —hyacinths in pots.—I planted some Hya¬ 
cinth roots fresh from Holland last September. The 
flowers In most cases have been good, but the leaves 
rather too long for the flowers. Please Inform me how to 
avoid this evil in future —F. 

9470. —Peas for boiling.—Would any reader kindly 
inform me in which district of England Imperial and 
Medium Peas for boiling purposes are principally grown, 
and where they could be had In quantity?— Phila¬ 
delphia. 

9471. —Pruning Marechal Nlel Rose.—I shall 
feel much obligedlf someone will kindly tell me if the 
Marechal Niel Rose ought ever to be pruned, as I have 
been told It ought never to be cut ?— Erin. 

9472. —Points of a Show Rose.—Would some 
reader kindly describe the different “ points ” of a Show 
Rose, so as to guide amateurs in their selection of Roses 
for exhibition?—G. E. G. 

9473. —Blanching Dandelions.—I have a number 
of well-grown Dandelion plants from last year's sowing. 
What is the best way to blanch them lor saladB ?— Vege¬ 
tarian. 

9474. —Plants for seaside —I shall be obliged by 
any reader telling me the names of a few flowers and 
shrubs likely to flourish in a garden in an exposed situa¬ 
tion in Sussex near the sea.—F. T. 

9475. —Potting Palms.—I should be glad of some 
hints as to the treatment of Palms. Should they be 
repotted now, and what Boil suits them ?— Magdalene. 

9476. —Celeriac.—Will someone tell me how to grow 
Celeriac ? I shall be much obliged for any information, 
as I only know it as a delicious vegetable to be bought 
in London at the present time.— Vinca. 

9477. —Chicory.—I keep rabbits, and wish to grow 
Chicory for them. Will someone inform me as to the 
nature of the plant and the time and method of sowing ? 
—Crosby. 

9478. —Vegetables and flowers for north 
border.—Will someone kindly inform me the best vege¬ 
tables or flowers to plant in a walled border ; north as¬ 
pect, clay soil ?—V. 

94< 9.—Rhododendron seed —I should be obliged 
to any reader who could tell me where I can get Rhodo¬ 
dendron seed; also how to strike Hollies and the proper 
time?— Constant Reader. 

9480. — Sweet Nancies. — What is the true name 
of the old-fashioned flowers called Sweet Nancies?— 
Mother. 

9481. —Culture of Gladioli.—W'ill some reader 
kindly give a few hints on the culture of Gladioli? What 
soil suitB them best ?—T. R. 


Bees.— Messrs. Neigfrbolir and Sons 
>ur columns frequently Arfpll' o t 


srtise Bees in 
u^p&rticulars. 


FLOWERS FOR MARKET 

AND 

TABLE DECORATION. 


SINGLE DAHLIA SEED. 

SPECIAL SELECTION. 


If seed of Single Dahlia be sown in gentle bottom-heat in 
February, nice plants will be ready to plant out in June, and 
will bloom until cut down by frost Plants of the Black 
Dahlia lifted in August and brought within doors in a cool 
temperature bloom until Christmas. 


Per packet, poet free.—e. 


Collection of 10 very fine sorts (separate), put up per¬ 
sonally .3 

Splendid mixed seeds from the following sorts (Paragon 

type) and others . Is.. Is. 6d, and 2 

Cervantesi, brilliant carmine.1 

Colbri, very dwarf scarlet .1 

Gracilis type, rich scarlet, 4c., mixed .0 

Gracilis perfect*, velvety-scarlet .1 

Gracilis eiegans, fine scarlet.1 

Yellow Queen, fine deep yellow .1 

White Perfection ) , 

Ware’s White Queen / Bplendld whlt es.1 

Paragon, velvety-maroon, edged with rosy purple, most 

beautiful .1 

Coccinta frustranca, Bcarlct.0 

Scapigera, dwarf brilliant red.1 

Zimapani, the black Dahlia, very interesting species of 
dwarf compact habit, colour claret-crimson, almost 
black, and very free to bloom .. .. 6d. and 1 


d. 

0 

6 

0 

6 

6 

0 

0 

0 

0 


0 

6 

0 


0 


Seed of the* very unique winter-bloom¬ 
ing plant, COSMEA BIPINNATA PUR¬ 
PUREA, so much admired at i resent by 
visitors to Chib wick, 6d. per pack et. 


V Catalogue, very select edition for 1883, roBT trek for 
SIX stamps. Special seeds to sow for Bees, wt p. 3£. The 
cost may be deducted from all orders above Five Shillings' 
value. 


HARTLAND'S 

OLD ESTABLISHED SEED WAREHOUSE, 

24 PATRICK STREET, CORK. 
TTEITCH’S SUPERB PRIMULAS"red, white, 

V and mixed, the finest in cultivation, each per packet, 
2s. 6d.-JAMES VEITCH & SONS, Royal Exotic Nursery, 
Chelsea. 


p HO ICE PLANTS CHEAP—Begonia Rex, 

Is. each ; 9s. doz ; Coleus, 12 splendid varieties, 2*. ; 24. 
3s. 6d. ; Carnations, 3s. 6d. doz.; Oaitor-oil plants and 
Gannas, 3 for Is. 3d. ; Fuchsias, a choice collection 12 va¬ 
rieties for 2s.; zonal Geraniums for greenhouse, 6 fine va¬ 
rieties for Is. 9d.: Pansies. Is. doz.; choice mixed, 100 for 
6s. ; Cyclamen, fine little plants, 3 for Is.; 12 for 3a. ; Madame 
Vaucher (white) and Wonderful Geraniums (scarlet, double), 
Is. 6d. doz.; larger size from single pots, 2s. fid. doz.; larger 
still with lots of cuttings, 4s. 6d. doz. All plants sent, free 
carefully packed in more Send for catalogue, gratis to 
customers —JAMES LOOME8, F.R.H.S., The Nurseries, 
Whittlesey, near Peterborough. 


TTEGETLABE SEEDS.—Finest quality guaran- 
V teed.—Broccoli, Cabbage, Celery, Lettuce. Onion, 5d. per 
oz. ; Brussels 8prouts, Beet. Kale, Savoy. 4d. oz.: Carrot, 
Parsley, 3d. oz.; Parsnip, Radish, Turnip, 2d. oz.; Mustard, 
Cress, Spinach. 8d. per pint. 2d. per oz.; also fourteen Penny 
Packets (assorted), Is. ; all post free.—T SMITH & CO.. 
S eedsm en , 27. Ellington Street, Barosbury, London, N. [5022 

TTNIQUE VEGETABLE MARROW.—Invalu- 

U able for town gardens and where much space cannot bo 
allowed, as it does not run, but grows in the form of a cluster 
or bush ; very prolific bearer and of fine flavour. Many testi¬ 
monials. Eighteen Beeda, 7d., poBt free.—C. SHILLING, 
8eedaman, Winchfleld, Han ts._ 

7WTIXEI) FLOWER SEEDS.-A largo packet of 

ILL beautiful hardy flower Beecls, containing about 50 varie¬ 
ties (mixed) suitable for sowing in borders, shrubDerles. 4c. ; 
sure to please, post free, Is.—C. SHILLING, Seedsman, 
Winchfleld, Hants. 


•TWOPENCE PER PACKET.-Single Dahlia, 

-L Petunia, Heliotrope, Verbena, Asters, Stocks, Phlox 
Drummondi. Zinnia, Sweet Peas. Antirrhinum. Pansy. 
Godetia, Tropieolum, ornamental Grasses, Lobelia, 
Mignonette, Everlasting Flower. Balsam. Cineraria, Primula, 
Begonia, Carnation. Acacia, Cockscomb, &c.. all from the 
finest strains ; cannot be surpassed ; Is. worth and upwards, 
post free —C. SHILLING, Seedsman, Winchfleld, Hants. 

OUTDOOR CUCUMBER.—The tat sort in 

V/ cultivation is the Incomparable Ridge, which produces 
in the open ground abundance of fruit from 18 in. to 22 in. 
in length; trial solicited; 21 seeds, 7(L, post free, with 
testimonials, 4c.—C. SHILLING, Seedsman, Winchfleld, 
Hants. _ 


VEITCH’S SUPERB BALSAMS.-Flowers of 

V good form and perfectly double}: gTeat variety of 
colour; per packet, 2s. 6d—JAMES VEITOH 4 SONS, 
Royal Exotic Nursery, Chelsea._ 


BEAUTIFUL IVIES (gold and silver 

■D variegated), six named varieties for 2s. 6cL : Honey¬ 
suckles, four for Is.; Herbaceous Phloxes, six named varieties, 
six for Is. 6d.; Violets Czar, 7d. per doz.—H. WHEEL¬ 
WRIGHT, Rose Cottage, New 8treet, Oldswinford, Stour¬ 
bridge._ [5041 

OPECIAL CHEAP OFFER—Surplus Stock.— 
O Geraniums, strong autumn struck, named, 6s. per 100; 
Calceolaria Kayii ana Golden Gem, Ageratum Imperial 
Dwarf, blue, all 3s. 6d. per 100 ; Fuchsias. Heliotrope, Violets, 
blue and white, and Clove-scented Pinks, all 4s. per 100; 
Lobelias and Ledum variegatum, true from cuttings, 2s. per 
100 ; Wallflowers, double Daisies, Perilla, Tagetes, double 
and Golden Pjrethrum. all Is 6d. per 100; good well-rooted 
plants, package free; pricelist for Btamp.—JOHN NORFOLK, 
Wilburton, El y. Cambs. __[5027 

3 SWEET BkIERS^ ioliase delightfully 

peifumed, hardy, can be forced; 2 Honeysuckles, grand 
perfume; 1 Virginian Creeper, hardiest climber for town 
planting, beautiful crimson foliage in autumn ; 1 Periwinkle, 
beautiful creeper ; and 12 finest selected varieties of Hardy 
Annuals : cultural directions ; all the above for 2s 9d_, free. 
ROBSON'S Plant and Seed Emporium, Market, Newcaatle- 

on-Tyue. Old established, [5031 


TJOSES, PANSIES.—A splendid collection of 

■Lw both. Catalogues of either for a penny stamp.— 
GEORGE TEMPLETON, Rose Merchant. Prestwick, N.B. 


TTEITCH’S SINGLE DAHLIA, mixed colours, 

V embracing all the new and best sorts in cultivation, per 
packet, Is.—JAMES VEITCH 4 SONS, Royal Exotic Nur- 
ery, Chelsea, _ 


QHRUBS, cheap collection, 50 for 8a. 6d. ; 100, 

14b. 6d., paid to London; including Magnolia, Sweet 
Bays. Pinus, Cupressus, Piceae, Retinosporas. height 9 in. to 
4ft.; also 100 small ornamental shrubs and Conifers, vet y 
healthy and true to name, 7 in. to 22 in. high. 20 varieties, 
including Cedrus Deodars, Rhododendron., Hollies. 
Cupressus, Sweet Bav. 4c., for 7s., paid to any railway 
station —S. 4 W. HENRY, Oakland*, Chigwell Row, Essex. 

5026 


XTEW HYBRID WHITE CLOVE — MRS. 

•Ll SINK.1N8—First-class certificateR.H.S. ; blooms 3 in. 
across, perfect rosettes, produced in great profusion from 
May till November in open ground. Plante 5a. and 6s. per 
doz. Single Dahlia and tuberous Begonia seed, from ex¬ 
cellent strains, fid. and la. per packet, post free for cash.— 
W. WE ALE, Taplow, Bucks._ 

VEITCH’S “CHELSEA”COLLECTIONS OF 

V FLOWER SEEDS (free by post) at 5s. 6d., 10*. 6d_, 15a., 
and 21s —These are arranged on the most liberal scale, and 
comprise the most showy and useful varieties.—JAMES 
VEITCH & SONS, Royal Exotic Nursery, Chelsea. 

PAPER ON CULTIVATION with each order. 
-L —“The Wonderful " 25 packets choice imported seeds. 
Asters, Stocks. Petunia, Lobelia. Balsams, Mimulus. Pnlox. 
Everlastings, Grasses, annuals, 4c.. Is. 2d., free. “The All 
Hardy " 25 packets of Annual^ Perennials. 4c., Is. 2d., free ; 
both 50 varieties, 2s 3d free. Mr W. Frank, Westerdale 
Hall, Grosmont, Yorkshire, writes : “Your collections aro a 
marvel of cheapness." Mr. H. Mills, Auctioneer, Nairn, N.B., 
writes : ** Your collections are the cheapest and bxt offered to 
the public ”— F. B. BAILEY, Seedsman, 4, Market Street, 
Westhought-on, Bolton. 

TVATOSOTISDISSIT1FLORA ALBA7 a true 

•Lai pure white form of the lovely M. dissitiflora. per packet 
Is. 6d.—JAMES VEITCH & SONS. Royal Exotic Nursery. 
Chelsea, S.W._ 

VEITCH’S STRIPED SINGLE PETUNIA 

V produoes beautifully striped and spotted flower* ; per 

packet Is—JAMES VEITOH & SONS, Royal Exotic 
Nursery, Chelsea. _ 


Coleus. 

IO DISTINCT and most beautiful named 
jlLI varieties, strong plants in pots for 4s.; by post. 3a. 3d. 
W, M CROWE, Boleyn Nursery, Upton, Essex. 

Bedding plants. 

T OBELIAS Emperor William and Blue King, 

-LI the two best, 6s. per 100 ; Is. 2d. per doz.; Heliotrope 
General Gartield, new 1881, 6d. each ; 3s. 6d. doz. ; 
bryantheraum cold, variegatum, 6e. per liO; Is. per doz. ; 
Altemanthera tnagoitica, 6s. per 100; Is. per doz ; It tarns 
Linden'. 7s. per 100 : Is. 3J. per rtnz. Strong plants by poet. 
W. M- CROWE. Boleyn Nursery, Upton. Essex 

Salvias. 

4 DISTINCT varieties (patens, tpleodens, 
Bttheli, and rubilan*), 6d. each, or the four for Is. 6d.; 
the new white variety Mous. Js*nnchou 9d. 

W. M. CROWE, Boleyn Nursery, Upton, Es*ex. 


Foliage Begonias- 

T WELVE distinct and beautiful named va¬ 
rieties. in 3-in. pots, or by post, my selection, 6e. ; six for 
3b. 6d. Four grand new varieties of the discolor-rex section 
sent out in 1882, Is. each ; strong plants in pots or by poet. 
W. M. CROWE, Boleyn Nursery, Upton, Essex. 


Dahlias. 



named sorts, 6s. and 9s. ; strong plants by poet or in pots. 
W. M. CROWE, Boleyn Nurrery, Upton, Essex. 


Gladioli. 

ITELWAY & SON offer all the sort* worth 
XL cultivating. TWENTY ACRE8 are devoted to the 
oulture of this flower. Our bulbs this season are very fine, 
and we are enabled to supply to any extent. Catalogues wi ih 
instructions for growing free. See report of our culture in 
Gardener's Magazine, October 7, 1882. 

_LANGPORT, SOMERSET._ 


50,000 Pyrethrums. 

TTELWAY & SON offer all the tat sorts in 

XL cultivation. Catalogues free. 

_ LANGPORT, 8QMERSET. _ 

Single Dahlias. 

OKED of these sown early in spring will flower 

O abundantly the first Beason. Packet* containing about 
300 seeds, with directions for culture, post free for 2e. 6d. 
This strain we guarantee to be one the finest and choicest 
existing, being saved from none but best varieties, including 
whites. 

KEYNES & CO., The Nurseries, Salisbury. 


W. SMITH 

riFFERS the following strong plants : 6 selected 
Geraniums, including Henry Jacoby, Is. 6d. ; 12. mixed. 
Is. 6d. 6 selected Fuchsias (autumn-struck), Is. 6d , named ; 
12, 2s. 6d. ; 12 mixed plants, 1 b. 6d., all free. 8inglc Dahlia 
seedlings with four and six leaves, from the best strain in 
cultivation, 6 plants, Is., 12 for 1 b. 9d., free; cuttings of Gera¬ 
niums, named, selected. Is. doz ; without names, 9d. doz. 
Fuchsias. 9d. doz ; 24 mixed cuttings. Is. 2d., free. Genuine 
and choice seeds, 24 packets, post free. Is. 2d., comprising 
Lobelia, Petunia, double Stocks and Asters, Phlox, Liuum, 

W. H. SMITH, St. Faith’s, Norwich. 

HHEAP AND GOOD PLANTS for rooms: 

\J certain to please ; for Foliage, Aralias, Grevilleas, and 
green Dractena* ; Flowering, Primulas and Monochwtons ; 
lor Ferns, Pteris tremula and Adiantum pubescens, all from 
6d. to Is. each. Plant list free. Chrysanthemum cuttings. 
Is. 6d. per aoz.; best Virgin Cork for Ferneries. 3d. per lb., 
18s. 6d. per cwt. Our noted Bouquets from Is. 6d.: Wreaths 
and Crosses from 5s., constantly forwarded to all parts of 
the United Kingdom — W. BAJLEY. 8outhbourne Winter 
Gaiden, near Christchurch. Telegrams to Bouthbourne. Es¬ 
tablished 1872. 















GARDENING!- ILLUSTRATED 


Vou V. MARCH 24, 1883. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Continued from page 28.) 


Importance of timely thinning of 
shrubs. 

It ia a misfortune when the planter’s ideas are 
not grasped by his successors, as his best efforts 
may take many years to develop, for the best 
and choicest trees and shrubs are generally of 
slow growth, hence the importance of intelligent 
watchfulness and supervision. The Larch, the 
Laurel, and the Privet, which are largely used as 
nurses, if neglected, will soon overtop and 
destroy the choice things they were intended to 
shelter and protect. In keeping rampant grow¬ 
ing things within bounds, a good deal may be 
done with the knife, and then as they progress, 
if not too large, the overshadowing nurse may 
be removed and planted elsewhere. In new 
neighbourhoods there is often a demand for 
common things of large size, to form screens 
and blinds, and sometimes the thinnings of 
shrabberies may be disposed of to advantage in 
this way. At any rate, whenever the best plants 
require the space the nurses must give way, even 
if they have to be destroyed. For the first few 
years but little will be required beyond annual 
regulation with the knife, and there are but few 
things but require a little help sometimes. It 
may be a strong growth has been developed, 
which is monopolizing the strength of the plant 
and injuring the natural leader, and this should 
be checked in time. With the majority of per¬ 
manent trees and shrubs the knife should be 
used only to secure the symmetry of the plant, 
or in other words, to maintain the balance of 
power ; but as regards the nurses, or those things 
planted for shelter only, when fhey have served 
their intended purpose there should be no hesi¬ 
tation about dealing with them, either with 
knife or spade. The common Laurel, besides 
being an excellent plant for making blinds, and 
for nursing tender things, may be used with ex¬ 
cellent effect in covering banks, or for creating 
a green base for pictorial trees, such as the 
Weeping Birch and the variegated Holly. When 
submitted to an annual pruning to keep them 
low, they produce a striking effect. 

Climbers for Buildings, Walls, &o. 

The most unsightly building may be made 
beautiful by a covering of living plant growth. 
Let but a spray of Ivy attach itself to a hard, 
bare brick wall, and gradually it steals upwards, 
spreading out laterally as it advances, imparting 
a tone and finish to the dead face of the wall or 
building in a way which no hand of man can 
rival. Creepers on the outside of the dwelling 
are on a par with the paper and curtains of the 
interior, and they add to its appearance in pro¬ 
portion to the value of the materials employed. 
A Uose-covered cottage would to some minds be 
preferable to one covered with Ivy, but the Ivy 
should not be despised, as it will succeed where 
Roses would fail. Old-fashioned houses of a 
mixed style of architecture may be appropriately 
covered with creepers in variety. Roses, Cle¬ 
matises, Honeysuckles, and Jasmines may blend 
in one sweet mixture, festooning over verandahs, 
or rambling up the gables. But in modern 
houses there is often an advantage in planting 
each aspect with a different kind of plant; the 
south aide, for instance, may be covered with 
Roses, using such rapid growing kinds as Mar6- 
chal Niel and Gloire de Dijon to cover the upper 
part and ramble about the chimneys, with the 
less vigorous Teas and a few of the strong 
growing Hybrid Perpetuals for clothing the 
bottom. The western aspect would look well 
covered with the Pyracantha, which, though 
slow of growth, when once the wall was covered 
its effect would be permanent, and it is worth 
waiting a few years for. The north might be 
covered with Veitch’s variety of the Virginian 
Creeper, which clings to the wall like Ivy, and 
the foliage dies off in autumn a beautiful bronze 
superior to anything else of the kind, and the 
habit of growth is close and neat. Many of the 
hardy evergreens and deciduous shrubs are well 
adapted for covering walls of ~hnly a moderate 


height. The evergreen Barberries (stenophylla 
and Darwini), the Laurustinus, the Cotoneaster 
(with its neat foliage and brilliant scarlet berries), 
the Escallonia macrantha (deep green, glossy 
leaves and bright rose-coloured flowers late in 
autumn, when flowers are scarce), and Euony- 
mus radicans variegata, with its close habit and 
neat, variegated foliage, can be highly recom¬ 
mended as samples of a much larger list. Of 
deciduous things we might select the Wistaria 
9inen6is, the Forsythia, the naked-flowered Jas¬ 
mine, the Honeysuckles, the Japan Quince 
(Pyrus japonica), Chimonanthus fragrans, Mag¬ 
nolia conspicua, and the very large family of 
Clematis are a host in themselves. A wall might 
be made very effective in this way. Plant Cle¬ 
matises, either of the Jackmani or lanuginosa 
type, 10 feet apart, allowing each plant to spread 
3 feet. In the panels between the Clematises 
plant variegated Ivies, of which there are now 
so many beautiful varieties, allowing one kind 
to each panel. When the wall was well furnished 
the effect w'ould be very chaste. 

Many other ways of planting walls with 
creepers will occur to those who turn the matter 
over in their minds that will be an agreeable 
change from the mixed system commonly 
adopted. In all cases where creepers are planted, 
unless the site is in good order, some pains 
should be taken to fit it for them before plant¬ 
ing. If needed, manure and fresh soil should be 
brought, and if these are not required, the border 
should at least be deeply dug. Wherever Roses 
are planted a little extra pains should be taken, 
as Roses in weight of flowers alone dissipate a 
good deal of nutriment, and this must be given 
to them in some form, and liquid manure cannot 
easily be applied just under the borders. Walls 
or buildings on which climbing plants are to be 
trained should be wired, as this does away with 
the necessity of using nails or shreds, and be¬ 
sides, there is a saving in it. Of course, wires 
are not needed for Ivies. There are many ways 
in which creeping and climbing plants may be 
employed to adorn a garden besides taking the 
harshness and bareness from walls and build¬ 
ings. The Virginian Creeper, the Wistaria, the 
Honeysuckle, and the Clematis may be planted 
near stiff - growing trees or shrubs, up 
which they may be trained till they have reached 
the top, then encouraged to fall about grace¬ 
fully and naturally. Then they will cover wire 
screens and quickly shut out any unsightly 
object. The Hop is a very useful summer 
climber, and there are annuals which may be 
raised from seeds sown in spring that will cover 
a good large space in one season, the Canary 
creeper being as effective as anything of the 
kind can possibly be. 

Select climbers and other plants for 
walls. 

Ampelopsis Veitchi, A. hederacea, Aristolochia 
Sipho (Birthwort), Berberis Darwini, B. steno¬ 
phylla, Ceanothus thyrsiflorus (south aspect), 
Bignonia grandiflora, B. radicans major, Coto-! 
neaster, Escallonia macrantha, Euonymus radi- ( 
cans variegata, Garrya elliptica; Ivies, a very j 
great number, including such beautiful kinds as 
aureo-maculata (clouded gold), Emerald Gem, 
japonica argentea, latimaculata, marmorata 1 
elegans, marginata argentea, palmata, palmata 
aureo-purpurea, Rmgneriana, tricolor variegata, 
baccifera lutea, salina elegantissima, kc. Honey¬ 
suckles, Jasmines, and Clematis are numerous 
enough to suit the most fastidious. The Honey¬ 
suckles and Clematis are well suited to train 
round doors and windows, even when the other 
parts of the building are clothed with other 
plants. Lycium europceum is a grand plant 
for a warm southern situation. I have seen 
plants of this 70 feet high in the West of 
England. For southern aspects Passiflora ccerulea 
Pomegranates, Japan Privets, Pyrus japonica, 
and Pyracantha. Roses in great variety. Staun- 
tonia latifolia (a fast growing climber in a warm 
aspect), Vinca major elegantissima. Grape Vines 
are pretty wall plants, and when well cultivated 
their fruit is useful, but I shall have something 
to say about this further on. Chimonanthus fra¬ 
grans, Wistaria chinensis, and the Laurustinus. 


No. 211. 


The Lawn. 

What is commonly termed the lawn assumes 
a variety of characters. There is the formal 
lawn, which it is customary for the architect to 
embellish with steps, often with walls and 
sometimes with statuary. The ontlineis generally 
square, or at least straight lines prevail, and the 
surface is fiat, and sometimes intersected by 
green slopes. This is an expensive lawn to make 
and keep, though in its best form it is not with¬ 
out a certain degree of grandeur when placed in 
front of a modern Grecian or Italian villa. But 
this kind of lawn broken up into formal walks 
and terraces does not look well on a small scale, 
as it wants breadth and depth to show it off to 
the best advantage. If the terraced garden is 
introduced in small places the elevations should 
be in proportion to the size of the place. Short 
slopes are best if only a moderate elevation for 
villa gardens of small dimensions, that is if it is 
necessary to introduce the terrace garden 
system at all; but I cannot help thinking when 
the garden does not exceed half-an-acre, the 
terrace system does not fit in so well as when 
the plants and shrubs are disposed in a more 
natural manner. There are many ways of 
making a lawn, and there is more than one plant 
adapted for small lawns. Turf composed of a 
mixture of grasses, with generally a certain 
proportion of weeds, is the material com¬ 
monly employed for covering the ground in 
front of the house, and which we call a lawn. 
There are many advantages in having the ground 
in the immediate front of the house covered 
with something that will bear walking or running 
upon, where little feet may dance about to their 
hearts’ content without doing any damage, and 
turf forms the best medium. Local circum¬ 
stances will sometimes guide us as to the for¬ 
mation of the lawn—whether it shall be laid 
with turf or sown with seeds. In either case the 
ground should be well prepared, and, if possible, 
it should be free from the seeds of weeds, which 
implies that it has been under cleanly cultiva¬ 
tion for some time previously. If grass seeds 
are sown, it is very important that the Land 
should have undergone a course of cleanly cul¬ 
ture for a year or two, and unless turf can be 
obtained very cheaply in the neighbourhood, I 
should certainly recommend grass seed in pre¬ 
ference. The site of the proposed lawn should 
be dug over, and if the ground is poor, a dressing 
of manure will be beneficial. The surface should 
be raked fine, removing all stones and roots or 
other foreign matters, so as to secure a fine 
tilth. It will be better if the digging can be 
done a month or two before it is necessary to 
sow the seeds, as exposure to the weather will 
improve the working, especially if the soil is 
heavy. The seeds may be sown in September, if 
it is convenient, as early in the month as pos¬ 
sible, as then a good plant will be obtained 
before winter sets in. I have seen a good turf 
secured the following spring from September- 
sown seeds. 

Next to September the best time to sow is 
towards the end of March or beginning of April. 
In the preparation of the surface for the seeds 
the same amount of pressure should be applied 
all over, or it may settle unevenly and give 
trouble. To obtain a good turf quickly from 
seeds they must be sown thickly. At least 4 
bushels per acre should be sown. And for small 
lawns near trees, or where birds are numerous, 
6 bushels per acre will not be too much, as the 
birds wdll take some. And one—I may say the 
chief—reason why lawns from seeds take so long 
to establish is, the seeds are too thinly scattered 
about. The same pains should be taken in pre¬ 
paring the land where turf is employed in apply¬ 
ing pressure equally all over the surface, so that 
the lawn may settle evenly. Lawns newly 
planted with seeds or turf should be skimmed 
over lightly with the scythe a time or two 
before the machine is used. And where seeds 
have been used for forming the lawn the machine 
should at first be set to cut rather high. I need 
hardly say the roller will be a most useful im¬ 
plement to thicken »Dd form the turf. For small 
surburban lawns, instead of employing tnrf, the 
small-leaved or the large-leaved Irish Ivy would 





38 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 24, 1883. 


make a pleasant green patch. Of course, it would 
not bear the pressure of much traffic, but it 
would look well and would make a nice base for 
Daffodils and other bulbs in spring. It would 
bear catting to any extent in order to keep it 
close to the ground. The expense of forming an 
Ivy lawn would be small, as cuttings planted 
in autumn would do ; pegged down close to the 
ground, the bare earth would be covered in one 
season. There are other substitutes for Grass 
perhaps as useful as Ivy. A well-known town 
plant called Creeping Jenny I have seen em¬ 
ployed with considerable effect. And it might 
be used even where Ivy was employed to form 
contrasting patches or to fill in recesses. The 
Creeping Jenny is otherwise known as the 
Moneywort, or Lysimachia Nummularis, and is 
a common British plant. But wherever a lawn 
is required for traffic it must he formed of turf. 
The advantages of planting the open spaces 
usually turfed over with one or more green 
creeping plants are very considerable in point 
of expense, as a well-kept Grass plot involves a 
good deal of labour, and unless it is well kept 
the Ivy or the Moneywort will look better. 

E. Hobday. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


BULBS IN HOLLAND. 


9447.—Hyacinths and other flowering bulbs 
are grown principally in the nurseries outside 
the southern suburb of the town of Haarlem. 
One would suppose that if the method of culti¬ 
vation which is practised there were tried in 
some of the warmer parts of England where the 
surface of the ground is fiat and the soil some¬ 
what sandy, and where there is sufficient shelter 
from high winds, many bulbs, such as Hyacinths, 
could be grown as successfully as in Holland. 
This, however, perhaps from difference of climate, 
appears not to be the case, for we do not hear of 
home-grown entering into competition with 
Dutch bulbs. 

For the cultivation of the Hyacinth a bed is 
dug out to the depth of 2 feet or 3 feet, and a 
layer of stones put in the bottom to ensure 
perfect drainage. It is then filled up, and raised 
6 inches above the general level, with a compost 
of old cow manure, leaf-mould, and the fine 
sandy soil which is a characteristic of the dis¬ 
trict about Haarlem. In this the bulbs are 
planted about 3 inches deep in rows, and 6 
inches apart, in October and the beginning of 
November. The plants, in the first period of 
their growth, derive their nourishment from the 
fleshy scales which go to make up the bulb. By 
the time the roots have been sent out into the 
soil, these scales are exhausted, and they ulti¬ 
mately shrivel up and fall away, and their place 
is gradually supplied by new scales which are 
formed inside, and which make up the bulb for 
next year. The earlier kinds flower about the 
beginning of April, and the others keep up a 
succession of bloom for at least a couple of 
months later. After flowering, the bulbs are 
kept as dry as possible, and about a month later, 
when the leaves have withered, they are taken 
up and dried, and kept for replanting or for sale. 

Besides rich, porous, sandy soil and thorough 
drainage, the other chief requisites seem to be 
moisture during the period of growth, and sun- 
"sfune during the period of flowering and ripening. 
The stock is increased from the bulblets that 
spring from the bottom of the bulbs. These 
bulblets are subjected to treatment much the 
same as that described, but it takes at least two 
seasons' growth to make them fit to be sent into 
the market. If the tourist who is in Holland 
about the beginning of August, and before the 
ground has been touched for the next year’s 
crop, Ehould happen to walk along one of the 
roads which lead past the nurseries at Haarlem, 
he will not be gratified with a view of the great 
blaze of colour that might have been seen some 
months earlier, but if he will look over a hedge 
on the roadside, lie will probably see some long, 
flat beds, dotted with rows of little cup-shaped 
empty holes. Each hole marks the place where 
a bulb, probably a Hyacinth, has been grown. 

P. R. 


-It would take up too much space and be a 

long story to tell minutely how bulbs are raised 
in Holland, but in the case of Hyacinths it is 
the rule to scoop out the base of the old bulbs, 
and thus induce them to throw out large numbers 
of tiny bulbs or ^Ta#n beneath^ jTl^ese tiny 


i^a^n^mea^^ J 


bulbs are grown on year after year in richly 
manured and deeply trenched soil, getting, in 
fact, as all bulbs do, the very highest culture 
that can be given in the very best of soil. The 
great object of the grower is to get size and 
firmness into the bulbs, not bloom, and the latter 
is soon gathered and thrown away.—D. 

-Having visited Holland, I can inform 

“ T. J. A.” that bulbs in that country are grown 
in fields of earth, chiefly composed of sea sand 
and cow manure; no other manure is used. I have 
used with good effect sea sand which has 
received drainage from a town.—W almer. 


ORNAMENTAL-LEAVED BEETS. 
Apart from the culinary value of the garden 
Beet, it is really a fine-foliaged plant in the 
fullest sense of the term, few other outdoor 
plants surpassing it as regards rich, deep crimson 
colour. For several years past some of tbe 
brightest leaved sorts have been used with good 
effect in gardens in combination with other 
plants, the colour of the Beet being uniform 
throughout the 'season, n valuable character in 
ornamental gardening. One of the best sorts for 
ornamental purposes is a variety lately dis¬ 
tributed by Messrs. Haage Sc Schmidt, of Erfurt, 
and which can now be obtained at any good 
English seed house, under the name of the 
Victoria Beet, or Beta hortensis metallica. In 
this the growth is uncommonly robust, the foliage 


in flower gardens during summer months, there 
is not one that requires so little attention, or 
that attains effectiveness so quickly, as the 
Giant Hemp. Last year we sowed seeds of it 
in warmth on March 16, and grew the young 
plants on in an intermediate house till the end 
of May, when they were transferred to the beds, 
which they completely furnished by the begin¬ 
ning of July, and before the end of August 
many of them were upwards of 9 feet high, and 
bushy in proportion. They show themselves off 
to the best advantage when planted in groups 
of three as centres to large beds, surrounded 
with Ricinus Gibsoni, and edged with Cineraria 
maritima. As a background or screen to hide 
for the summer months any objectionable fence 
or wall, their feathery, tall, bushy, and rapid 
growth renders them worthy of attention, even 
if only by way of a change from the never- 
ending Scarlet Runners, Gourds, Canary Creepers, 
and Convolvuluses generally used for such a 
purpose. The plants require deep, rich soil and 
plenty of space, at least 4 feet for each plant, 
and they must be kept tied to stout stakes as 
growth proceeds. Sow now, grow in a tem¬ 
perature of 66°, and plant out any time after 
May 20. 

9423.— Common blue Iris— I suppose 
that “Somerset ” refers to the Blue Flag (Iris 
germanioa), so common in cottage gardens. 
There is another blue Iris, I. feetidissima, which 



Ornamental-leaved Beet (Beta hortensis metallica). 


ample, and of a rich, deep metallic crimson hue, 
which no weather affects. It will, therefore, be 
found to be an important plant for sub-tropical 
gardening, or for use in any way where plants 
possessing ornamental foliage form the chief 
attraction. It is as easily grown as the ordinary 
garden Beet, though when plants are required 
expressly for decorative purposes, they should 
be raised in Blightly heated frames early in 
spring, so that by May they will be good-sized 
plants, capable of producing an immediate effect. 
What is known as the Chilian Beet is a variety 
of B. cicla, a showy plant. When well grown 
its leaves are often more than 3 feet long, and 
produced in erect tufts; the most attractive 
parts of the foliage are the brightly coloured 
stalks, midribs, and veins, which in one variety 
ore deep magenta crimson, in another deep 
yellow, colours that contrast strikingly with the 
shining deep green of the blade of the leaf. 
Such plants are very effective, and the fact of 
their being almost, if not quite, hardy, renders 
them all the more valuable. The seedlings vary 
considerably with respect to colour, but the best 
may be easily distinguished even in a young 
state before they are planted out permanently. 
On account of the colour of their foliage being 
very pronounced. Beets should be used sparingly 
in ornamental gardening, and with discretion, 
a remark which also applies to all plants of a 
similar character. 


Giant Hemp (Cannabis gigantea).—Among 
the numerous species of plants that can be used 


is also common, and which grows wild in woods, 
thickets, and pastures in Devonshire and other 
parts of the south of England. The yellow wild 
Iris, I. Pseudo-Aoorus, common everywhere, 
flourishes in watery places, such as wet meadows 
and choked ditches at the corners of neglected 
pasture fields; but I have never seen it flower so 
well and so regularly anywhere as in the soft 
wet loam which gathers at the turnings and in 
the creeks in the beds of small lowland streams. 
I imagine that the Blue Flag also prefers wet 
places, for the spots in which I have seen it 
flowering best under cultivation have generally 
been in the damper parts of gardens, and always 
in rich loamy soils. The rhizome or root-stock of 
the Iris is a thick procumbent stem, partly and 
sometimes quite under the surface of the ground. 
The root stock develops roots from its under side, 
and leaves from one end of its upper side. This 
end is generally pointing slightly upwards, and 
as the offshoots or new root-stocks which spring 
from it are also pointing upwards, the plant in 
the course of a few years gets bare of Boil. 
Some of the new offshoots of the root-stock, 
however, keep a nearly level position. The 
nourishment found in the soil may have some¬ 
thing to do with this, and may .help to keep them 
under the surface. Those which rise above it 
are ready to receive a covering of the river silt 
brought down by the winter floods. I would 
recommend “ Somerset ” to try more moisture, 
and to see that the soil is of the nature described. 
If he cannot conveniently comply with these 
conditions of soil and moisture, let him dig and 



March 24, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


39 


manure the ground well, and replant his Iris 
roots rather deeply, sinking the tops not less 
than 4 inches under the surface.—P. K. 


1*329.— Annuals for bouquets.— Sweet 
Peas, Mignonette, Coreopsis, Phlox Drummondi, 
Stocks, Asters, Cornflowers, Candytuft, Chrysan¬ 
themums (tricolor varieties), Clarkias, Lark¬ 
spurs, Indian Pinks,Eschscholtzias, Helichrysums 
(Everlasting Flowers), Scabious, Zinnias, Salpi- 
glossis, Schizanthus, Petunias, and Verbenas. 
The last two are not really annuals, but succeed 
admirably under the treatment suitable for 
half-hardy annuals. Zonal Geraniums (scarlet) 
also do well under the same treatment, and if 
sown early bloom the same summer.—11. C. B. 


9418.— Cultivation of the Hollyhock. 
—Hollyhocks may be propagated either by 
means of seeds or cuttings. A good way to grow 
Hollyhocks is to sow the seed in the last week 
in March, on a seed-bed prepared in the follow¬ 
ing manner. The bed should be 4 feet wide 
with an alley on each side; the soil should be 
very rich, and in good heart, and be trenched 2 
feet deep, breaking the soil up thoroughly. On 
this bed, when raked down fine, row the seeds 
about an inch apart, and cover them with some 
rich dry soil, about half an inch deep. When 
the plants make their appearance keep the bed 
free from weeds, and water during dry weather. 
About June the plants may be removed to a 
nursery bed prepared in the same way as the 
seed-bed. Plant them in the new bed 6 inches 
apart each way, and again keep the bed free 
from weeds, and supply the plants with water in 
very dry weather. In autumn, the plants will 
be strong enough to put out where they are 
intended to bloom.—A. H. C. Watson, Cop- 
thomc, 

9371.— Tropseolum epecloaum—I do 
not think there is any reason why Tropamlum 
speciosum should not grow a mile or even 
more from the sea, but it is a most capricious 
plant. I have grown it successfully for many 
years in Scotland (but not in Perthshire), and 
given plants of it to friends a few miles away 
who did not sncceed with it. It does grow in 
England, and there will succeed best in a west 
or north-west aspect, giving it plenty of moisture 
at the roots in dry weather, and on no account 
allow the ground where it grows to be dug over— 
else you will lose it. The roots run for yards all 
round, therefore it does best among small shrnbs, 
where its festoons of lovely scarlet blossoms will 
twine all over them, and it is not to be disturbed 
by the spade in snch a situation.—S t. W. 

9396.— Exhibition Pansies —In reply to 
" Auid Reekie," the following thirty-six Pansies 
are probably the finest exhibition varieties in 
commerce (excluding 1883 sorts) : Alexander 
Stevene, Catherine Agnes, Countess of Home, 
Earl Beaconsfield, Formosa, George Wyness, 
Gold Digger, Hecla, H. L. Blaeklaw, James 
Lillie, Jane Adair Martin, James Gardner, Jessie 
Budd, Livadia, Miss Bliss, Miss Reeve, Mrs. 
Barrie, Mrs. Findlay, Mrs. Jamieson, Mrs. John 
Stewart, Mrs. M’Taggart, Mrs. Robertson, Mrs. 
Robinson, Mrs. Russell, Perfection, Prize-taker, 
Rev. J. Graham, Robert Congalton, R. Goodwin, 
SirP. K. Murray, Tom M'Comb, W.Cuthbertson, 
W. M’lntosh, W. Stewart, W. Storrie, and W. 
Windle.—J. G. Paul, Faulty. 


9428.— Plants dying In border.— The 
sudden collapse of hardy border plants is doubt- 
lessdueto the excessive damp and consequent rot. 
The wet, cold condition of the soil has doubtless 
led to the gradual decay of the roots, and though 
the plants have continued to look fresh, yet, 
when a bright, warm, sunny day has come they 
have been nnable to withstand the trial, and 
have suddenly collapsed. Polyanthuses are 
peculiarly liable to root rot, and Aquilegias 
often Buffer very muoh from a lodgment of 
moisture about the crowns of the plants.—D. 


9432— Daffodils. — The double Daffodi 
thrives very well as a rule in the environs o 
hondon, and but a few miles out on the Londoi 
clay is very fine. If very often happens in tb 
ea»e of bulbous flowers that the crown of tb 
bulbs in the season of rest get cut off by tb 
reckless nse of the hoe, and then they die 
There may be special cases in which in thi 
thickly populated parts of London the sulphnrou: 
•moke is detrimental to the Daffodil, or the soi 
—become impregnated with gas—is little bette: 
than poisonous to the roots. Still, the partic 
case seems exceptional ^ 


roots. Still, the particul 

- D Co gl 


9442. — Snowdrops. — It would very 
materially check the growth of Snowdrops 
and injure them were they to be lifted and 
replanted whilst in green leaf. The bulbs are 
just now swelling and maturing, and to lift 
them would probably prevent their blooming 
next year. Far better will it be to let the bulbs 
remain until the leaves have died away, and 
then they may be lifted and divided with entire 
safety.—A. D. 

- They wilt do quits well It taken up and divided 

and planted apdn immediately, particularly if theaoll is 
a little damp and the locality shaded.—P. K. 


ROSES. 

ROSES ON BRIER STOCKS. 
NOTHING demonstrates more the necessity and 
ubefulness of gardening, in which the possessors 
of small gardens can compare notes and state 
their requirements, than the way in which ex¬ 
perienced and extensive cultivators seem unable 
to comprehend the position and necessities of 
the smaller class of cultivators. 

All that “ A Practical Man ’’ writes about the 
growth of the Rose on the Brier stock has been 
described over and over again in books on the 
subject. The dictum of a well-known judge at 
the Rose shuws on the subject is “ that to keep 
up the stock of the right sort of plants, you 
must plant young Briers every autumn, and bud 
those young Briers every summer; ” but the 
equally true dictum of the same writer on the 
Brier stock is, “ To speak of it truthfully and 
collectively, it may be said to be tiie curse of 
the suburban garden.” 

If Roses are wanted for the exhibition table, 
the culture described by “ A Practical Man,’’ or 
that formerly described by Mr. Burrell, are the 
only two alternatives; but of what nse is all 
that to a man who wants a dozen Rose bushes 
to decorate his little garden, and expects those 
bushes to furnish him with a crop of nice 
flowers every summer for as many years as he 
chooses to grow them, with as little trouble and 
attention as possible. 8uch Roses can be had, 
and why should the small gardener not have 
them without having to trouble himself about 
all the niceties of budding, or distinguishing 
stock from scion. Everyone who knows anything 
of amateur gardening must know that tor one 
person who has the time or the wish to grow the 
Rose up to exhibition mark, there are a thou¬ 
sand who merely want a few pretty Roses in 
their garden borders. It is for these, and for 
these only, that I should always recommend the 
exclusive use of strong-growing Roses on their 
own roots as being the only plants suitable for 
their purpose. 

The objections; to Standard Roses 
on the Brier stock as a garden feature are two, 
the first decorative, the second cultural. Take 
first the decorative objection: The most beauti¬ 
ful growth of a thin-foliaged shrub like the 
Rose, in which the lines of the branches can 
generally be seen, is that which springs from the 
ground in a straight, upright line, and gradually 
falls into curvature as it rises. The least beauti¬ 
ful growth is that which springs outwards at the 
bottom with a quick curve and rises into a 
straight line, decreasing in curvature as it rises. 
When we bud the Hose, we compel it to spring 
from a single point and change its natnrally 
graceful growth into one of a far less beautiful 
character; and if we raise this point of springing 
above the ground level, we bring into distinct 
view a kind of branching which, in our country 
at least, is generally hidden by foliage or under¬ 
growth. A Standard Rose tree of an upright 
growing variety is just about the ugliest form of 
plant that ever was introduced into a garden; 
the description of snch trees by the writer already 
quoted, “The best are mops, the worst are scare¬ 
crows,” is not a whit too severe. Gardening 11 is 
an art that doth mend natnre ” in some things, 
but certainly not when we assume that a totally 
unnatural growth of plant is an improvement on 
the natural one ; it may be more showy, more 
convenient, more profitable, but never more 
beautifnl. That is the curse of gardening; in 
too many cases we attempt to bring nature down 
to the level of our untrained perceptions, instead 
of striving to bring our perceptions up to the level 
of the natural beauty of form. What Standard 
Rose was ever half so beautiful as a fine bush of 
the old white Rose, or its offspring the Maiden’s 
Blush, or the round, dense, Boxtree-like bushes 


of the Scotch Roses, or a scrambling plant of the 
old crimson China, trained on a rustic trellis or 
up the rough whitewashed stones of a cottage 
wall ? In striving after beauty in cut bloom 
our raisers of new Roses liave in too many cases 
lost sight of the plant, the most important thing 
by far from a decorative point of view. Give us 
Alfred Colomb, Marie Baumann, La France, and 
all the other queens, prinoes, princesses, and 
other nobilities of the Rose family by all means, 
but let us have them in the form in which we 
can grow them “ as is their nature to,” if we 
choose, and do not oblige ns to grow them as 
exhibitors do, whether we like it or not. 

Now, as to the cnltural objection : —It will 
enable the readers of Gardening to understand 
why standard Roses so often fail if I describe 
the behaviour of some exceptionally strong 
shoots of Brier I have notioed since the end of 
their first year’s growth. Having a ditch on one 
side, and a stream which, except in rainy weather, 
was little better than a sewer, on the other, and 
being manured with the clearings of the ditch 
annually as well, these shoots were 10 feet high, 
and as thick at the bottom as a man’s thumb in 
their first year ; the second year they flowered 
well and increased a little in thickness ; the 
third year they scarcely grew and did not in¬ 
crease in size; the fourth year they were evi¬ 
dently dying and were cut down in the autumn 
when the hedge was trimmed. The first year 
the bark was bright, glossy, and green; the 
second year it became brown, but was still 
smooth; the third year it was just a little 
crinkly; the fourth it was becoming grey 
and had assumed a cracked appearance on the 
surface. That fairly represents the ordinary 
behaviour of the wild Brier in its native hedge, 
and let those who purchase standard Roses bear 
that in mind when purchasing. To form the 
stock of a healthy standard, the Brier should be 
moved at the end of its first, or at least 
not later than the end of its second year's 
growth; it should be budded in the following 
manner, and planted in its permanent position 
in the autumn of the year following. 

When standards are received from a nursery 
the bark of the stem should be clean and smooth, 
or at the very worst only slighly cracked looking, 
and should never be dull, grey, and old looking. 
Especially notice the scars where the thorns 
have been removed, if these look old and grey, 
do not have anything to do with that standard. 
If we revert to the growth of the wild Brier al¬ 
ready described, it will be seen that little or no 
growth was made after the second year, and 
that is usually the case. Now, when we bnd 
a cultivated Rose on a Brier stock with the in¬ 
tention that it shall live a number of years, we 
attempt to change the stem of the Brier 
into a perennial stem like that of a tree shrub. 
Every leaf on a tree sends down a thread of 
wood to the root, and it is the meeting of these 
threads of wood which gives the peculiar appear¬ 
ance to the junctions of the limbs and the bole 
of old trees; in old Oaks and old Beeches, for 
instances, the masses of wood made by each 
branch can be distinctly made oat. 

Now, if we are to change an evanescent stem 
into a perennial one, the sooner we set about it 
the better, and it has always seemed to me that 
the best time to bud a Brier would be on the 
young shoot in its first year, either as Backer or 
seedling. In any case the sooner the stock and 
scion are united the better, as then the sap from 
and for the Rose flows freely down and up the 
long stem of the Brier, and there is every chance 
of a fresh layer of wood being formed every year, 
and the Brier stem becoming more or less truly 
perennial. 

When a standard is thoroughly well made on 
a young Brier, with all useless wood removed 
from the Brier root, the root having plenty of 
fibres to feed it and the Rose a tolerably strong 
grower, there is little or no tendency to pro¬ 
duce suckers, as the Rose takes all the sap 
that the roots of the Brier can gather, the 
plant falls as it were into regular habits, use 
becomes second nature, a mass of wood is 
formed about the budding, which seems to 
take the character of the underground growth 
of the Rose when on ita own roots, and which 
keepe on sending out strong yonng shoots, and 
the plant will, most likely, last a lifetime if 
well attended to. 

On the contrary, wiien a Rose is budded on 
an old Brier already becoming hide-bound, and 
in the stem of which the vessels which carry 


40 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 24, 1883. 


the sap are fast becoming closed by woody 
matter, and no new ones are being formed to 
take their place as in the case of a truly 
perennial stem, the half-dead stem is interposed 
between the fresh young Rose and the perennial 
root of the Brier, the result being that the Rose 
never does well, and the Brier continually sends 
up suckers. 

The foregoing remarks on the physiology of 
the subject will sufficiently explain why it is 
necessary to be careful in buying standard Roses, 
and why the culture described by "A Practical 
Man ” was so successful. Kxtreme instances 
always form the most telling and impressive 
illustrations, amt a good extreme instance is 
furnished by the behaviour of the vigorous 
Marechal Niel on an old Brier. It was budded 
three years ago, and has grown with tolerable 
vigour, but already there is a pear-shaped mass 
of wood above the budding as iarge os a boy’s 
spinning top, showing that the downward flow 
of the wood is checked at that point. If we 
must have standards, why not choose for a stock 
some wild Rose which shows more tendency to 
form a perennial stem than the English Brier, 
which scarcely ever does so in its wild state, and 
seems intended by nature to depend on the 
shelter and support of other plants? Have any 
of our northern friends tried 


The “ red, red Rose ” of Scotland as 

a stock ? -It is as vigorous as the Dog Brier, far 
less particular about soil and situation, rather 
resents the shelter of a hedgerow, preferring to 
stand as an independent bush in the open when 
it can get a chance, and it often becomes a true 
shrub with one or more perennial stems ; it is 
also considerably more hardy than the English 
Brier. Southern readers may not be aware that 
the English Dog Rose (Rosa canina), with white 
or pale bluish flowers, is comparatively rare in 
Scotland. Its place and familiar name of the 
common wild Rose is taken by a pure white 
Rose of very similar growth but botanically dif¬ 
ferent, known as Rosa svstyla, and by a Rose 
varying from pale pink to the colour of the 
.Sweet Brier Rose. This Rose is usually de¬ 
scribed as a local variety of the Dog Rose, but 
its appearance and habits are very different. It 
often forms a branching, bushy head, flowers 
with great freedom, and produces its large hips 
in such close clusters, and in such quantity, that 
it is worth growing in a shrubbery foritships 
alone, being far more showy than many plants 
grown for that purpose. With regard to dwarfs 
on Brier stocks, my experience is not such as to 
enable me to recommend them. 

Some years ago I ordered some dozens of 
dwarf bush Roses, own roots in preference. 
When the plants came to hand half were dwarf 
standards and half of the remainder on seedling 
Briers. It was too late in the season to send 
them back, as I wanted the flowers next summer. 
Not one of these plants made anything but the 
very weakest growth, and some of them died in 
the spring. With those that lived it was a con¬ 
tinual struggle with strong suckers. All died 
the next winter. As if to show my culture was 
not in fault, a sucker allowed to rise from one of 
the earliest to die reached 6 feet high in almost 
as many weeks, so that the whole cause of 
failure was the foolish bit of Brier stick inter¬ 
posed between the Rose above and living root 
below. 


Dwarf standards are too often old Briers 
cut down and re-budded. Mr. Farren has taken 
my assertion as far more sweeping than it was 
intended to be. I only intended to say what I 
did say—namely, that the majority of the plants 
1 had seen in the hands of small amateurs, as 
well as those I had myself purchased, were of 
an unsatisfactory character. Those nurserymen 
who are willing to forward a single dozen or two 
or three dozen standard or dwarf Roses on young 
Briers, or carefully budded on the Manetti, at a 
remunerative price, have only to advertise in 
Gardening. No one wishes nurserymen to 
supply plants on other than strictly commercial 
principles, although everyone interested in 
gardening should protest most energetically 
against the slightest attempt to introduce into 
the trade the pernicious principle of attempting 
to induce the public to buy not what the public 
want to buy, but what it suits the trade to sell, 
and also of indneing the public to buy what 
suits the requiiements of only a very limited 
section of the gardening community. I have 
seen enough of ^Ihe sn^ril airntjeu^ and bis 


failures to know that budded Roses as sent out 
from nurseries are not the plants for him. 

The thing that is wanted is that Roses sliall 
be grown at nurseries as large old plants, pro¬ 
ducing plenty of suckers, that these rooted 
suckers shall be sold to the publio in the same 
state as that in which a private grower can 
separate them from own-root plants, and move 
them in his own garden ; that plants raised from 
cuttings, layers, and wood buds shall be adver¬ 
tised, catalogued, and sold as such, so that a 
purchaser can clearly understand what kind of 
plant he is ordering; and that all this stock and 
budding business shall be strictly confined to 
supplying the requirements of those who wish 
for it, instead of being recommended to the 
public on the strength of successes gained by 
plants of a class which, in the case of standards, 
the nurseryman can never supply. 

Roses for show are cut from plants such 
as “ A Practical Man ” describes moved from the 
hedgerows in a young state, and producing their 
show flowers the first year after budding, that 
is, in the sammer of the season in the autumn of 
which they are sent out to the public, and rarely 
produce such flowers again. They are still less 
likely to produce good flowers if the first bud¬ 
ding has failed, and a year is added to the age 
of the Brier before it can be budded again, and 
the double moving is a still farther injury. 
Nurserymen do not bud Lilacs, Clematises, 
Fuchsias, or Pelargoniums on stocks worthless 
in themselves, and yet they can sell those plants 
at a remunerative price. Why cannot they do the 
same with Roses ? Will any nurseryman who 
makes a speciality of Roses reply, and tell us 
why there should be any more difficulty in get¬ 
ting a supply of good, strong Roses on their 
own roots, such as any amateur can make in his 
own garden, than there is in obtaining budded 
plants, which are simply a vexation and a nui¬ 
sance to anyone who does not wish to grow Roses 
to the exclusion of most other flowers. Person¬ 
ally, I am particularly anxious to develop the 
decorative capabilities of the ’Rose, but find 
myself baulked and time wasted because I can¬ 
not get large, strong plants of own-root Roses, 
and am obliged to put up with little mites in 
pots, knowing perfectly well all the while that 
if I could only get good, strong-rooted suckers 
of one year's growth, I should have fine bushes 
in a third of the time these pot plants will take 
to make a show. The only reason I have ever 
heard given by a nurseryman why they did not 
develop the growth of own-root Roses left on 
my mind the very strong impression that it was 
the only form of Rose growing which insured 
the purchaser against ever having to come to 
the nursery for a further supply, except of sorts 
differing from those he already had. 

As Mr. Fish recently pointed out in The 
Garden, there is a great future in store for the 
Rose as a decorative plant. We have so many 
fine varieties of thoroughly perpetual character, 
that we can bring the plant into the front of 
the garden as freely as the scarlet Pelargonium. 
We cau have bashes, bowers, fences, arches, 
trellises, and beds of Roses on the lawn, with 
the long shoots trailing on the turf or pegged 
down to it. It will greatly hinder this fresh 
development of Rosy beauty if nurserymen are 
to act as drags on the wheel of progress by en¬ 
deavouring to perpetuate forms of plants which 
should be allowed to become obsolete, and 
making a difficulty about supplying strong 
suckers of good Roses which will grow away at 
once, and make the desired effect quickly. They 
must remember that new demands must create 
new forms of supply, and that in Roses, as in 
everything earthly, “The old order changeth, 
yielding place to the new.” J. D. 


DESIGNS FOR COTTAGE GARDENS. 

9481.—Compared with the small and miserable 
hovels in which agricultural labourers are too 
often boused, it seems almost like flying to the 
extreme of landlord philanthropy to erect for 
them Elizabethan cottages, in which there is 
too much reason to fear the architecture will 
dominate the convenient and possibly the use¬ 
ful. The effort seems to have about it a tinge of 
Arcadia, very charming to the aesthete,but hardly 
such as will commend itself to the hard, practical 
man, who holds that even labourers’ cottages are 
built to live in, and that endurance, comfort, and 
convenience should always have primary con¬ 


sideration. We have no desire to check on the 
part of owners of property any desire to improve 
the arcbitectural features of the buildings in 
their locality, or to encourage that which is 
picturesque, but it cannot be too obvious that 
whilst latticed windows were esteemed ad¬ 
mirable in the days of Queen Elizabeth, in the 
Victorian age large, fnll-sized windows, with 
ample light, and admitting plenty of air into the 
rooms, are regarded as far more conducive to 
health and comfort. 

The proposal to cover the walls with creepers 
is of course very pleasing from a garden point 
of view, though the brickwork must materially 
suffer, unless in erecting the cottages wooden 
trellises are fixed to the wails. To these creepers 
may be tied or nailed with ease and advantage, 
but galvanised wire is useless, the creepers 
declining to grow on it. Ivy wiU of course 
attach itself to brickwork without the aid of 
nails, and so far will do little harm, so also will 
the Virginian Creeper (Ampelopsis Veitehi) after 
it has once got a start, but Roses, Jasmines, 
Clematises, Pyracantha, Vines, and similar desi¬ 
rable climers must be kept well nailed, and freely 
too, If they are to be properly trained and tidy. 
Of course if wood trellises are fixed on the walls 
of the cottages the injury resulting from free 
nailing is at once obviated. 

The giving of designs for the front gardens 
for each cottage, each one to be diverse, is a 
matter of exceeding difficulty, and, we think, 
very undesirable. In the first place, all designs 
for gardens, however simple or complex, must 
be made subservient to this one important fact, 
viz., that the cottages have to be reached through 
the gardens, that the road to and from should 
be broad and direct; for if not so arranged, 
unless some kind of fence is employed, complex 
designs, however beautiful on paper, will have 
to give place to the convenience of the shortest 
cut; for the agricultural labourer, even though 
as msthetic as bis landlord, will soon find the 
nearest cut, even if across flower beds, the most 
acceptable for him. We may well take exception 
to the proposed size of the ornamental gardens, as 
16 yards square means nearly 8 rods of ground— 
far more than many cottagers often get for entire 
gardens, and far too much to devote to orna¬ 
mental or flower growing uses. To fully design 
such an expanse, turf should be largely employed, 
and that would be an absurdity; the most suit¬ 
able, then, would be neat gravel walks edged with 
neatly-trimmed Box; but to edge, say 30 or 40 
yards of paths with Box would be to inflict upon 
the tenant, who will never have too much time 
for gardening, an exacting labour that could 
not be performed, and once the trimming of the 
Box is neglected the beauty of the garden is 
gone. 

Perhaps the best way of dealing with such 
large gardens would be to plant shrubs liberally 
around the front and sides, and when tbese grow 
up an air of privacy and cosiness would be given 
that certainly would be pleasing and acceptable. 
The inner space devoted to flowerbeds or borders, 
should be planted with Roses and various kinds 
of hardy border plants. Fancy parterre designs 
would be ridiculous. They are bad enough 
when seen attached to villas, but in cottage 
gardens would be a monstrous anomaly. It 
will probably be found best, having made direct 
walks and planted shrubs, to leave the rest to 
the diverse fancies of the various tenants. 

A. D. 


FRUIT. 

9432.— Melon toed. —“A Young Gaidener” 
will do well not to hurry in making up a manure 
bed for Melons, for if ever so well prepared and 
effectually made, yet should one or two days of 
heavy cold rain, snow, or harsh east winds come 
the heat will go down feist, and once lowered 
will not rise again. It is wise not to start 
Melon growing on a manure bed until thespring 
is well advanced; indeed, if the bed were left to 
the end of April till made it would be a wise 
course. The manure must first be well prepared 
by frequent turnings and waterings of the dry 
portions, so that all eventually has been made 
damp and of an equal temperature. It will 
perhaps, with a large body of long stable manure, 
take three or four turnings and mixings at 
intervals of three days to secure the desired 
result. The heap, when turned, should even 
then be protected by mats or other covering 




March 24 , 1883 .] 


GAEEEfrlJfG ILL VSTUA TED 


41 


from cold winds and rains. One great benefit 
to the manure resulting from the turnings and 
short heatings is that the rank steam is 
eliminated. Were this not done before the bed 
is made up, the plants would probably be killed 
by the excess of hot vapour in the frame. Road- 
scrapings will never do as soil for Melons, and 
mixed with other soil it does more harm than 
good. Melons like a good, yellow, turfy loam, 
free from wireworms and grubs. If it is from 
an old pasture and well rotted, no manure is 
needed, but if poor, then a little thoroughly 
rotted manure should be added. It cannot be 
too well understood that it is no child’s work to 
grow good Melons in a frame, especially when 
there is only the sun's regular heat to ripen the 
frnits. On the other hand, a hot, dry heat will 
breed thrip and spider furiously.—D. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


PrnnUB triloba. — If any shrub merits 
popularity more than another it is surely this 
one; it is one of the finest of all hardy spring- 
flowering shrnbs, and one of the least known. 
We have Almonds and Peaches in abundance, 
but rarely hare we met with Frunus triloba. 



Flower of Prunus trlloha (natural size). 


There is a fine plant of it against one of the 

walls at Kew, where it covers several square 
yards, and every spring is literally covered with 
rosy pink blossoms. It begins to flower just 
before the leaves expand, and before the last 
flowers have fallen it is in full leaf. The blossoms, 
which are semi-double, are arranged so thickly 
on the slender branches as to make them quite 
floral wreaths. As a standard its growth is 


i» ri 



Flowering Bpray of Prunus trilob 


3uyi‘ 

dwarf and spreading. The only good examples 
of it in this shape which we have seen about 
London are in Battersea Park. Though a native 
of China, it is perfectly hardy, but the flowers 
are Bometimes injured by late frosts. It appears 
to grow well under any ordinary condition, and 
requires very little attention when once planted. 
It is also called Amygdalopsis Lindleyi. 


Vol I- " hardening ” la (out o; 
t he r ef ore urifchlio to further an 
or bound rolunn*a. 


.t, ii 
t«pr 


.ape 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 


Extracts from a Garden Diary — March 26 
to March 31. 

Propagating Lobelia*. Petunias, and Ageratums. 
Sowing Phlox seed. Putting in cuttings of Euphorbia 
jacquiniaeflora, and sowing seeds of Poinsettiaa. Shifting 
Altemantheras, Meeemhryanthomums, and Petunias out 
of cutting pots into 3-incn ones. Sowing Primulas and 
Cinerarias. Nailing Camellias on walls. Putting Primulas 
into cold frame. Pricking out Pyrethrums into boxes. 
Boxing Iresines and Lobelias. Breaking up old stools 
of Begonia Weltonienais and potting them ; also potting 
Caladiuma and fancy Pelargoniums. Tying Roses ana 
freeing them from suckers. Potting Miles's Hybrid Migno¬ 
nette. Sowing Sweet Basil and French Beans ; also main 
crop of Onions and a little Lettuce. Planting Potatoes 
for exhibition; also batch of French Beans. Sowing 
Leeks. Preparing ground for planting show Potatoes by 
giving it a dressing of ashes. 


Glasshouses. 

Heaths.— If the different varieties of soft- 
wooded winter-flowering Heaths, such as 
hyemalis, were cut back freely after blooming:, 
they will now have started into growth, and 
should be potted at once. Pots 2 inches larger 
than those they are already in will, in most cases, 
be sufficient; no disturbance of the roots should 
be attempted; merely remove the crocks from 
the bottom of the ball. Stock of this kind is 
often pot-bound, and therefore the new soil must 
be rammed more than ordinarily solid, other¬ 
wise in watering the water will be sure to pass 
through the new .material, leaving the old ball 
dry. A mistaken impression often exists as ta 
the time Heaths generally sliould be potted. 
Early in the spring before the weather gets hot, 
or in the early autumn after the dry, parching 
season is over, are the safest times for repotting, 
and where any portions of the younger description 
of stock arc suffering from want of root room, I 
should not hesitu’e to move tl em now, even 
though their bloomtee season is tpproaching, as 
if the potting is managed with the care it should 
be, so as not to injure or disturb the roots, the 
flowering will be little interfered with. The 
principal thing is to see that each plant has the 
soil well moistened before being shifted, and to 
place them for two or three weeks afterwards in 
a pit or house with only a little air given at the 
roof or on one side, so as to avoid the drying 
effects of a through draught, for although Heaths 
are essentially air-loving plants, and will not 
succeed for any length of time with a deficiency 
of it, yet for the short period named, until the 
roots begin to move, no harm will be done. A 
word as to the description of soil suitable for the 
different sections of these plants. The hard, 
black, hungry peat that was at one time almost 
exclusively used for Heaths in general is any¬ 
thing but the best, and its use alone should be 
confined to the slowest growing, hardest-wooded 
varieties. All the freer growing kinds will make 
much better growth in peat of softer texture, 
which contains much more vegetable fibre, and 
is usually brown in colour. This seldom lias 
much sand naturally in it, and consequently in 
its preparation proportionately more must be 
added. 

Hard-wooded greenhouse plants.— 

In potting these, commence with the freest 
growingsorts.such as Genistas, Acacias, Boronias, 
Eriostemons, Polygalas, Clianthus, and others of 
a like description, giving them pet room pro¬ 
portionate to the more or less naturally vigorous 
habit of the respective kinds. It may be well 
to remind those who may not have had much 
experience with plants of this character that they 
will not bear partial removal of the old soil in 
the operation of potting, and that unless they 
have sufficient pot-room they soon get naked and 
deficient of foliage at the bottom. 

Vallotas. —These handsome late summer 
flowerings plants'will now be making growth, 
BDd, where required, larger pots should be given 
them, yet discrimination here is required, for in 
common with most bulbous subjects of a similar 
character they do not succeed well if over-potted. 
Vallotas may be increased by the quantities of 
offsets which they produce, and which if allowed 
to remain attached to the old bulbs soon 
impoverish and overcrowd them. It is therefore 
well at this season to remove all the little bulbs, 
putting them in small pots about 1 inch apart 
just within the rim like cuttings, and using, as 
in the case of old bulbs, good holding loam with 
a little sand, making it firm, as they do not 
succeed with light potting. An ordinary green¬ 
house temperature is sufficient during the 


growing season, but, like a good many kindred 
species, these Vallotas enjoy a few degrees more 
warmth during this and the following month if 
at the same time they are accommodated with a 
light position, otherwise the extra heat would 
induce over-lengthening of the leaves. 

Brugmansias. — Few plants are more 
easily managed than the Daturas or Brugman- 
sias, yet they are not so generally cultivated as 
they deserve to be. Cuttings put in now in the 
ordinary way and placed in a little warmth will 
soon strike and make nice flowering plants in a 
year, forming beautiful objects when in flower 
in conservatories, halls, and similar places; they 
also come freely from seed, which, if sown at tfce 
present time and placed in a little warmth, will 
soon germinate, after which, when large enough, 
the seedlings must be put singly in 3 inch or 
4 inch pots, giving them more space as the season 
advances. Old plants that require more room 
should now have a shift, using pots or tubs, 
regulating the size of these by the extent avail¬ 
able for the plants, as they will bloom fairly well 
in 15-inch pots; still, so confined, the size and 
quantity of the flowers are much less than is 
attainable with more root space. Large plants 
that were cut. back after blooming, and that have 
made some growth, should now be repotted, 
giving them good turfy loam with some sand 
added, and as soon as they begin to make free 
growth, manure water ought to be given 
regularly. 

Double Primulas.— The flowering will 
have somewhat weakened the plants, and it is 
better to now pinch out the bloom-stems as they 
appear; this is the more necessary where au 
increase of the stock is required. Where large 
plants exists these may now be divided, 
separating the crowns and inserting them singly 
in small pots, placing them in an intermediate 
heat, and so far confined under propagating 
glasses as is requisite to prevent flagging, but no 
more than this, as if kept so close as some things 
require damping off will follow. 

Rhododendrons of the greenhouse section, 
such as Princesses Royal, Alexandra, and Helena, 
besides the newer kinds called Taylori, Duchess 
of Edinburgh, Duchess of Teck, and others, 
will, if in good condition, by this time have 
made new shoots, which will root without much 
difficulty and form useful plants. As these 
shoots, which should be about half ripened, 
consist of a cluster of leaves with a good length 
of bare stem below them, they form when taken 
off ready-made cuttings, bnt in removing them 
always leave two or three buds on the plant, in 
order to give it the means of furnishing itself 
with new growth. Sometimes the shoot removed 
is too long to be used in its entirety; in that 
case it may be cut to the required length, but 
the buds at the base hasten the rooting process, 
and should be left on if possible. The soil most 
suitable for such cuttings is fine sandy peat, 
with a liberal admixture of crocks broken very 
small, or pounded charcoal. In this they will 
root far more readily than in peat and sand 
alone, the young roots evincing a great par¬ 
tiality for the broken crocks by clinging closely 
around them. Use small, clean, well-drained 
pots for the purpose, and insert the cuttings 
firmly; then give them a good watering, and 
place them in a close case in a temperature of 
from 65° to 76°; water and shade them as may 
be required; if too damp, give air for a little 
time. A sharp outlook must be kept for thrips, 
which, if once a lodgment is gained, will increase 
rapidly in the confined atmosphere, and greatly 
disfigure the leaves. T. B. 

Flower Garden. 

General work.— In order to get. all ex¬ 
traneous work out of hand, we are as rapidly 
as possible finishing up Laurel and hedge cutting, 
applying mulchings to recently moved trees and 
shrubs, and edging and regravelling roads and 
walks. These done, mowing and the general 
preservation of neatness will constitute the whole 
of what we term our “ far afield ” duties. Local 
ones consist in affording beds of spring flowers 
timely attention; Hyacinths most be tied, and 
the less hardy flowers protected from the sharp 
frosts that generally prevail at this time. Where 
any of the beds are vacant, summer bedding 
arrangements may be determined, and the 
edgings and groundworks of hardy plants got 
out. Hcrniarics.Oevastinms, ijcdnmu, iiazifrages, 
Thymes, Violas, Pansies, and small shrubs are a 


42 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 24 , 1883 . 


few of the kinds the planting of which we hope 
soon to finish. As used here in the formation of 
upright edgings, 4 inches high, Hemiaria glabra 
makes the most perfect green fretwork wall that 
can be conceived, and naturally grows so dwarf 
and dense that it requires no attention to keep 
it in form. As edgings of Echeverias and Sem- 
pervivums have become so common, and look so 
formal and artificial, and as for such purposes 
there are so many better plants, their use in this 
way should be discontinued, but as a ground¬ 
work for taller succulents they are in every way 
appropriate, and when so used and allowed to 
llower, which they do profusely, succulents may 
safely be olassed among the most quaint, yet 
gay, of all summer beddere, and in all weathers 
effective 1 

Bedding 1 plants. — Alternantheras are 
growing so freely that abundance of cuttings 
may now be had from them at any time, and the 
hotbed mode of propagation described in a 
former paper is by far the best way to strike them, 
the frames being moved or thrown quite open as 
soon as the plants have become well established. 
Coleuses and Iresines may still be struck, and 
those cramped in catting pots may be potted 
off. These are both so long in starting when 
first planted out that, with a view to immediate 
effect, the aim should be to get the plants large 
before planting-out time. As increased space 
will daily now be needed for the tender kinds of 
seedlings, all sorts that will stand a degree or 
two of frost should be put out into pits or 
sheltered spots. Lobelias, Verbenas, and Petu¬ 
nias we put in turf pits and cover up with straw 
hurdles or felt frames. Calceolarias, Gnaphalium 
lanatum, and Abutilons are placed at the foot of 
the fruit walls, where they have the benefit of 
the wall covering. Most kinds of Pelargoniums 
are also quite safe under the same conditions. 
The tricolor section must, however, yet have 
glass shelter, but be given abundance of air on 
all favourable occasions. Seedlings of Solanums, 
Wigandias, Daturas, single Dahlias, and others 
sown a few weeks ago will now be quite ready 
to pot off, and when done place them in a close, 
warm atmosphere, and shade them for a few 
days till the roots have started in the new soil. 
Castor-oils should always be sown singly in pots, 
as they are bad subjects to handle in the seedling 
state. There is yet ample time if sown now to 
have good plants by the end of May; those 
sown earlier will be ready to remove to a cooler 
atmosphere to be grown on in plenty of light, 
otherwise the growth becomes attenuated and 
the plants liable to be severely crippled when 
first planted out. The same remarks apply to 
Tobaccos, Ferulas, Acacia lophanthas, aad 
Grevillea robustas. In mild weather draw the 
lights entirely off frames in which seedling 
Stocks, Asters, Phlox Drnmmondi, Everlastings, 
and others of the annual and biennial sections 
are growing, and prick them off or thin them 
out as soon as they can be bandied; even if the 
surplus seedlings should be destroyed it is better 
than that all should be injured by overcrowding. 

Phloxes and Pentstemons may, where 
scarce, be propagated now in the same way as 
Chrysanthemums—viz., as the young shoots 
come up cut them off and mukc cuttings of 
them, which should, however, if possible, be put 
where there is a little heat, say on a gentle hot¬ 
bed. If the plants are in pots they should be 
kept close a few days before the cuttings are 
taken off. Cuttings struck in this way make 
good little flowering specimens the first season, 
but of course the above method will only need 
to be used for [scarce kinds. Where large 
masses exist division is the best mode of pro¬ 
pagation. T. 

Flowers and Plants In Booms. 

Wild Daffodils and their garden relatives are 
now some of our most' valuable plants for indoor 
decoration. A quantity of flowers of the common 
single garden kind (N. Pseudo-Narcissus) are 
placed in a large china bowl with leaves here, 
and there. They stand upright in bold masses, 
supported by Moss below the water; the heads 
stand at various heights, the stalks being of 
different lengths, and all touching the bottom. 
Such a mass of delicate yellow is a cheerful 
object in a living room. A bold group of the 
great golden Daffodil (N. maximus) stands in an 
upright jar of dark hlue porcelain ; they are cut 
their full lent'* 1 ’ of 22 inches, 
bowl hr Ids irofusely-flowered 


Japan Quince and Almond blossom. Another 
china bowl, large and deep, is filled with an 
important mass of blood-red Wallflowers ; they 
are at their best when only the lower flowers are 
expanded, leaving a good space of the brown- 
purple buds in the centre—the whole year gives 
us few such feasts of splendid rich colour as such 
a bowl of Wallflower. From the greenhouse 
there are Tea Roses, Madame Falcot and 
Souvenir d’un Ami. The foliage of forced Roses 
is unsatisfactory, limp in texture, and of an 
even, dull, uninteresting green; we therefore 
substitute some old leaves of Maruchal Xiel from 
the open air; these are large, stiff, polished, and 
of a bright golden green that suits well with the 
pink and copper-yellow Tea Robes, and they have 
crimson stains and spots that add to their 
interest and colour-value. In an entrance hall 
stands a large white Indian Azalea, a mass of 
bloom, about 8 feet through, not trained in the 
stiff pyramidal shape so commonly seen, but 
grown as a graceful and naturally Bhaped bush; 
it is accompanied by plants of Aralia Sieboldi.— 

a. j. 

Fruit. 

Vinos in late houses now breaking under the 
influence of bright weather will require good 
syringing two or three times a day, and the 
inside borders will be the better for a covering 
of some kind that will radiate atmospheric 
moisture as the temperature rises. Strong young 
rods may require beading down to a horizontal 
position to ensure an even break, and when all 
the buds are on the move they may be tied up to 
the wires. Let the night temperature range 
between 50° and 65°. Give a little air at 05°, 
and encourage free growth by closing with 
plenty of moisture when the house stands at 76°. 
In succession and midseason houses the greatest 
activity will be necessary, as growth is very rapid. 
The most tedious work is thinning, and on this 
account it should be taken in hand as soon as 
the free setting kinds are cut of llower. No role 
can be laid down for thinning Grapes, as the 
different varieties of the same kind differ so 
much in size of berry and structure of bunch. 
When properly thinned, ripe Grapes should not 
press each other ont of form, neither should the 
bunches open when ent and laid on the dish. 
When the Grapes in the early house have 
finished stoning, the borders will require a liberal 
watering with warm liquid manure to help them 
through the last swelling. The paths and 
surfacesmay also be damped with it after closing 
on fine afternoons up to the time the berries 
begin to show signs of colouring, when pure 
water only mast be used. Wage incessant war 
with red spider, and destroy the Bmall spinning 
spiders which endeavour to gain a lodgment in 
the bunches and injure the bloom before it is 
properly set by travelling over the berries. 

Vo ge tab lea 

Doubtless many will have Snow's Broccoli 
sown on the plea that second sowings form a 
good succession, but this is a mistaken idea. If 
this Broccoli is sown jnst now, or any time be¬ 
fore this, it grows quite oat of all character— 
becomes large, soft, and succulent, and the first 
sharp frost prostrates the foliage, leaving the 
heart unprotected. If sown the first week in 
May it will be fit for cutting the first week in 
November, and the plants will be close to the 
ground and have much the same appearance as 
Walcheren Broccoli. This I have proved for 
three years running. Onions, Carrots, and a few 
Turnips may now be sown. We are at present 
briskly employed in planting our main crop of 
late Potatoes, consisting of Beauty of Hebron, 
Schoolmaster, and Paterson's Victoria chiefly. 
The Champion (but for that objectionable deep 
eye) would be largely planted here. I consider 
this variety, so far as flavour goes, excellent. 
Early plants of Celery will now be ready to prick 
out. A slight hotbed is the best place for them, 
but they will do well in boxes under glass. 
Early Cauliflower will also now require attention 
in the way of pricking out, in order to obtain 
good plants for the second batch of this indis¬ 
pensable vegetable. Onions may be sown ; the 
two varieties which we grow are White Spanish 
and James's Long-keeping; the latter we are now 
supplying firm, and not shot in the least. The 
main crop of Carrots may also be sown. Sweet 
Basil, a really useful herb, should be potted and 
grown in Cucumber frames for use green; all 
kinds of herbs may now be sown under glass. 


A broad shallow 
spray pi scarlet 


Cucumbers. —If old plants cannot be dis¬ 
pensed with, thoroughly renovate the beds by 
forking out as much of the sour soil as can be 
taken away without injuring the roots, and 
replace with good nch tnrf and lime rubble. If 
worms have got into the pots or beds this 
operation will offer a favourable opportunity to 
apply lime water for their destruction, as 
Cucumbers cannot succeed where the soil is 
exhausted by these pests. Woodlice, very often 
the cause of canker at the surface of the soil, 
may also be greatly reduced by the application 
of boiling water, as they beat a hasty escape to 
the edges of the pits for temporary shelter. 
Continue to cut the plants over until sdl the old 
foliage is renewed, then train thinly and keep 
the foliage clean by syringing with warm soft 
water, light cropping, and early closing with 
solar heat and moistnre. If it is needed, spring- 
sown plants may now be allowed to carry a 
few fruit; but light cropping is imperative. 
Ventilate freely through the early part of the 
day to keep the foliage firm and healthy, and 
avoid shading as much as possible, or altogether 
where the fruit is not affected by the sun. In 
light houses the fruit of Telegraph is very liable 
to morning scalding; but a thin shade for a 
short time until the fruit is dry, and early venti¬ 
lation will always correct this evil. Linings 
round frames will now require regular renovation 
to maintain a steady minimum of 70°, and good 
dry covering must not be neglected. Add a 
little fresh soil as the roots protrude, peg down 
the young shoots, train thinly, and rob off all 
male blossoms up to the time their services are 
needed. Be guided by the weather in the 
application of water; if bright and fine and the 
heat is strong, overhead watering about 2.30 p.m. 
will do good, but for the present the wetting 
of the foliage must be conducted with gxeat 
caution. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

Flower beds and borders.— It is now 
time to prepare the beds and borders for the re¬ 
ception of summer bedding plants, including 
Slocks, Asters, and others. For the ordinary 
run of Geraniums, I’yrethrums, Lobelias, &c., it is 
quite sufficient to thoroughly dig the ground 
over one spade deep, adding at the same time a 
moderate quantity of old decayed manure or 
leaf-soil. Calceolarias and Verbenas, however, 
particularly the former, will need a more care¬ 
fully prepared site, and for Asters and Stocks 
the soil can scarcely be made too rich or deep. 
Where any of these are to find a place, then a 
really fine result can only be obtained by 
trenching the beds at least two spades in depth, 
working in a quantity of hotbed manure, de¬ 
cayed turf, &e., particularly near the bottom of 
the trench. Thus treated, the roots will readily 
penetrate to the cool rich material provided for 
them at a distance from the surface, and no 
matter how hot the season, the plants will keep on 
growing and flowering all the summer, with very 
little danger of “ going off," as they are so apt to 
do on a poor shallow soil. 

Hardy Perennials.— During this month, 
or the early part of next, the planting of hardy 
perennials, such as Delphiniums, Lupins, l’ent- 
stemons, Hollyhocks, as well as Carnations and 
other things that have been wintered in cold 
frames, should be attended to. Shrubby Calceo¬ 
larias also, if strong and healthy, are much 
better planted out the end of this month or the 
beginning of April than if left till the other 
bedding plants are put out, when, if a spell of 
parching weather sets in, they are almost sure 
to get scorched up before they can get hold of 
the ground. Thrift is a capital town plant, and 
makes a fin* edging; Centranthus ruber and 
other varieties are equally valuable, and another 
plant that should not be neglected is the Marvel 
of Peru, Mirabilis multifiora, which seems to 
flourish anywhere. Seed of this sown at once 
in a gentle heat, and planted out at the end of 
May on a sunny border will bloom nicely the 
same season. 

Greenhouse plants will now need con¬ 
stant attention. Cinerarias are fast coming into 
bloom, if not already expanded; keep them cool, 
clean, and moist. Calceolarias must also be kept 
clean and growing; the flowering pots should 
now be getting pretty well filled with roots. If 
the pots are small, it is better to supply a little 
extra nourishment by means of liquid manure 
than to give more pot room, as the bioem buds 




March 24, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


43 



will now be appearing, by which time the roots | or March, when all weak, straggling, or crowded 
should be getting well round the sides of the | branches must be removed. In some of these 
pots. Chrysanthemums that are well rooted , types, the plants flower from the old or ripened 
shonld be potted off singly in large 3 inch pots, wood ; therefore, to secure blossoms, the strong 
1 1 * • ' * " ' one-year-old wood should be trained in as far as 

it ha9 become thoroughly ripened, beyond which 
it may be cut away, the parts retained being so 
disposed as to fill up all vacant spaces. The 
varieties of the Viticella and Jackmani types 
are mostly large-flowered summer and autumn 
bloomers, therefore favour to the utmost the de¬ 
velopment of vigorous young shoots, and this is 
effected by cutting the summer growth back each 
season as soon as the frosts have disfigured the 
plants, say in November, to within about G inches 
of the soil. 


and kept close and warm for a few days subse 
quently. There is still plenty of time to propa¬ 
gate Pompones. Pot off also young struck 
Fuchsias, and put in more cuttings if required. 
These and nearly all plants strike very easily 
and rapidly during this and the following month. 
Old plants of Zonal Pelargoniums of various 
colours that are getting too tall should now be 
cut back closely; the tops strike quickly on a 
coo) greenhouse shelf if put (four in each) in 
well-drained 3-inch pots filled with open, gritty 
soil. 

Pay great attention to the pots and boxes of 
young seedling Petunias, Lobelias, Pyrethrums, 
and many others previously mentioned. If 
allowed to become either very wet or very dry, 
they are very liable to damp or “ shank M off at 
the collar; Stocks in particular are often very 
troublesome in this respect. The 
great preventives are: First, main¬ 
taining an even degree of mode¬ 
rate moisture, and when water 
u needed, take care to give enough 
to thoroughly moisten the soil 
right through to the drainage. 

This should be done on fine 
mornings, so that the young 
plants may be quite dry by 
nightfall. Secondly, keeping the 
pots or boxes within a few inches 
of the glass, almost touching 
it, if possible; this has a won¬ 
derful effect in giving the seed¬ 
lings a strong and sturdy nature ; 
aad thirdly, admitting air mode¬ 
rately for a few hours on fine 
days, and also allowing the sun 
to act upon them when not too 
strong. When large enough, or at 
any time if very thick, prick off 
all young seedlings into other 
pots or boxes, using light, sandy 
soil, and providing good drain¬ 
age. This frequently has a most 
beneficial effect, particularly if 
the surface of the seed-pan has 
become caked or green. About 
the end of the month sow Asters, 

Phlox Drummondi, and Balsams; 
these are all splendid town 
plants, and will do better sown 
now than earlier. They must, of 
course, be placed in a gentle 
hotbed, on a warm greenhouse 
shelf, or at least in a cold frame 
in a sheltered position, and in 
the latter case would be better 
left till April is well in. 

The present is a capital time 
to cut back old plants of Gera¬ 
niums, Fuchsias, &c-, in sitting- 
room windows. They should have 
been kept dry for some time previ¬ 
ously, and after pruning should be 
dry at the root, though an occa¬ 
sional sprinkle overhead with a 
syringe or brush will help them 
to break greatly. A warm place and, 
if possible, a close atmosphere, such as that of 
a window case or small greenhouse, will suit 
them best. When the young shoots are an 
inch long shake out and repot in fresh soil.— 
B. C. R. _ 

Hinta on Olematises. —These are the 
besi of hardy flowering climbers no matter how 
trained. Where it can be provided, a rich soil 
of a light loamy character is the best for Clema¬ 
tises ; and if this be mixed, either naturally or 
artificially, with chalk or lime so much the 
better. Thorough drainage is indispensable to 
good healthy development, and the vigour of the 
plants must be kept up by at least annual 
nianurings with horse or cow manure. On dry 
bot soils, cow manure would probably be the 
boat; while, on heavy soils, a thorough dressing 
of good leaf-mould would be beneficial. Mulch- 
with half-rotten manure, on the approach 
of winter, also tends to increase both the strength 
of the plants and the size of the flowers. Pruning 
most likewise receive attention. The varieties 
belonging to the montana, patei^, fiorida, am 
lanuginosa types should be pjpned^; 


INDOOR PLANTS, 


Zonal Pelargoniums for winter 
flowering. —My opinion is (and I have grown 
Pelargoniums for some time) that they cannot 


enough silver sand to keep the soil porous. If 
the above treatment is carried out, there will be 
no difficulty in having a good display of bloom 
through the dark and dreary months of winter. 
—T. B., Stoke. 


Clematis Jackmani. 


be had to perfection in winter without special 
preparation ; and to show this I will give my 
mode of proceeding with them. I grow over 
one hundred* varieties, which are now put. into 
3-inch pots. About the first week in May I re¬ 
pot into their flowering pots (5-inch, 6-inch, and 
8-inch), and about the first or second week in 
June, I prepare a bed of ashes in a sunny situa¬ 
tion, and plunge the pots in it up to their rims. 
As blooms show they are all picked off, and the 
points of the shoots are taken out with the 
thumb and finger; by no means use the knife. 
As the plants fill the pots with roots, manure 
water twice a week will help them. Turn the 
pots once a fortnight to keep the roots from 
growing through the bottom, and about the 
middle of September cease stopping the points. 
If the weather be mild, the middle of October is 
soon enough to take them under cover. Treated 
in this way, I get a blaze of bloom in November 
and the two following months. I may add that 
almost any soil suits the Zonal, but following 
the principle that “whatever is worth doing at 
all is worth doing well,” I prefer two parts good 
tjirfy loam, one part well-decayed manure, with 


Tuberous Begonias.— Where these have 
been kept in cool quarters all the winter they 
will now be starting into growth, and should 
consequently receive a greater amount of atten¬ 
tion than they have enjoyed during the resting 
period. Water should be given them as soon as 
the soil gets dry, and when they have been stored 
away many together in sand or Cocoa fibre, they 
should at once be potted. If wintered in the 
pots in which they have bloomed, it is well to 
allow them to make an inch or so of growth be¬ 
fore disturbing them, as they then make roots at 
once. Every particle of the old soil should be 
shaken away so that the tubers come in contact 
with the fresh compost, and only pots just large 
enough to contain them comfortably should be 
used. Let the soil be light and well sanded, setting 
the tubers just below the surface, 
potting firmly, but by no means 
hard, and watering carefully until 
the roots fairly fill the soil. 
Allowed to come on naturally in 
a cool structure, they will need 
shifting about June into larger 
pots, and will bloom during late 
summer and throughout the 
autumn months.—J. C. B. 

9292.— Cultivation of Cy¬ 
clamens. — To do these jus¬ 
tice something more than merely 
keeping frost away is necessary, 
a temperature of 45° to 55° being 
requisite to keep Cyclamens in 
first-class condition throughout 
the winter months, especially if 
an early bloom is desired. Again, 
the warmth given off by a brick 
flue is of somewhat too dry and 
parching a character for these 
levely plants. Still, it is possible 
to grow them, and, with care, to 
grow them well in such a house, 
though it would be better, if 
possible, to put a couple of hot- 
water pipes in, which would give 
the plants a much better chance. 
Sow the seed in June or July 
in a moist shady frame, using well- 
drained boxes filled with a light 
mixture of loam, peat, leaf-mould, 
and sand. Do not make the soil 
too firm, and keep constantly 
moist. A place on a shelf about 
1 foot from the glass in a green¬ 
house at 40° to 50° will suit them 
best through the winter. Iq 
M arch pot singly into 2^-inch 
pots, and grow on in a warm, 
moist atmosphere in full light, 
but shading from strong sun. 
When ready, shift into small 3.J- 
inch pots. Keep close for a week 
or so afterwards, then grow on in 
a sweet, airy frame till Septem¬ 
ber. Then place on a shelf in the 
greenhouse as before, where the 
plants should bloom the next 
winter, earlier or later according to the amount 
of heat afforded them.—B. C. It. 

9424.— Plants for shaded greenhouse. 

—Where the sun scarcely comes one may not 
hope to grow flowering plants with any fair 
measure of success, and I would say do not 
attempt the impossible, but devote the structure 
to Fern 4, which would find themselves quite at 
home therein. If you do not care to have the 
trouble of heating to keep frost out, you may 
grow such kinds as, although not quite hardy in 
the open, are 90 under a glass roof. Many of the 
beautifnl filmy Ferns thrive admirably in a cold 
greenhouse, and there are many fine Japanese 
kinds which only demand that amount of shelter 
to be quite happy. If the houses were ours we 
would plant the majority of the Ferns out in 
good peaty soil, as then they would need but 
little care. One flowering plant might be tried, 
viz., the Lapageria, which does well in shade, and 
is nearly hardy. We would try a plant each of 
the white and red varieties, planting them out in 
fine, well sanded peat. If you want a list of 
Ferns suitable we will gladly give you one.— 

j. c. b. UNIVERSiTi OF ILLINOIS A 


UNA-CHA 



44 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 24 , 1883 . 


9299.—Winter bloom for greenhouse. 
—The following list of well-tried and most use¬ 
ful plants for the above purpose, with time and 
mode of starting, will probably suit “ J. W. T. P.'s" 
requirements. I give them as nearly as possible 
in the order of their flowering:— 

Time of starting. p^^tion. 
Chrysanthemum* .. March to May .. cuttings. 

Salvias .April .cuttings. 

Pelargoniums, Zonal March.cuttings. 

Primula?, tingle .. March .seeds. 

Cyclamens .. .. June to February seeds. 

Primulas, double .. April .cuttings. 

Bouvardias .. .. January to May.. cuttings. 

Roman Hyacinths August and Sept, purchase. 
Hyacinths, ordinary Sept, and October purchase. 

Abutilona.January to March cuttings. 

Epacris .2 years previously cuttings. 

Ericas (Heaths) .. 2 years previously cuttings. 
Carnations (tree) .. January to March cuttings. 

Cinerarias.March.seeds. 

llabrothamnus .. January to March cuttingB. 

Heliotropes.March.cuttings. 

Narcissi.September .. .. purchase. 

Tulips .September .. ., purchase. 

Azaleas .Old plants .. .purchase. 

Camellias.Old plants .. ..purchase. 

Euphorbia .. ..March .. .. .cuttings. 

Poinsettias .. .. February to May cuttings. 

Roses.Old plants .. .. cuttings or pure. 

B. C. R. 

9364.—Lapager ias from seed—Lapa- 
gerias do not flower for several seasons after 
the seed is sown. The seed should be sown in 
seed-pans filled with roughly-chopped peat, in 
spring or summer. The pans should be put in 
a gentle hotbed, and the soil kept rather moist. 
—A. H. C. Watson, Copthome. 

9410.—Cyclamens.—The Cyclamen grown 
in pits likes good soil, the preference amongst 
market growers being for two-thirds really good 
or turfy loam, and the rest well rotted leaf-soil, 
or well decayed manure and white sand. If the 
soil be not good and fitting, no skill can make 
good plants of Cyclamens. Just now the best 
thing to do with old plants is to remove some of 
the old surface soil and replace with good fresh 
soil. Keep the plants in a cool frame after they 
have bloomed, and about August shake out the 
roots and re-pot into clean pots a trifle larger, 
and in good compost. The plants should not be 
allowed to dry off, but be kept just moist and 
growing all the summer.—A. 

9379.—Palme from Calcutta — By all 
means pot the plants into some good compost, 
such as yon mention, viz., loam and peat, with a 
little lcaf-BOil, that is, if what they are now in 
is really clay, which seems hardly credible. It 
is not, however, likely that Indian l’alrns will 
grow much in a cool room, though they may 
remain in beauty for a long time.—B. C. It. 

943G.—Orange trees—Orange trees raised 
from pips will flower and fruit, if they are pro¬ 
perly managed. The majority of Orange trees 
that I have seen have been potted in soil so 
drenched with water that it resembled mud in 
appearance. Is it any wonder that-they do not 
succeed ? The compost which suits them best 
is four parts rich loam to one part each of well- 
decayed manure, leaf-mould, peat, and sand. 
The only good which grafting does is to hasten 
the fruiting. Should the stock be of doubtful 
origin, a good sort can be grafted on it.—A. H. 
Davis, Carthalton. 

- Orange trees from pips will very often 

produce flower, but cannot be relied on to flower 
in a young state ; neither do they flower so freely 
as worked plants. Any of the Citrus family will 
answer for stocks, but preference is generally 
given to the most robust growing kinds—to the 
Citron especially. They may be either grafted, 
budded, orin-arched, and should be placed in a 
close, warm frame or stove, and shaded till the 
union is complete. If pips are sown at once in 
light, rich mould, and placed in a Cucumber 
frame, they will soon vegetate, and if grown on 
liberally, in about four months they will be 18 
inches high, and may at once be operated on by 
grafting. A deep frame facing north, and kept 
close, and shaded when required, answers ad¬ 
mirably at this season of the year for the worked 
plants. As soon as the union between scion 
and stock is perfect, the plants may be hardened 
off and placed in the greenhouse.—W. Harris, 
Barnstaple. 

-- Orange trees are mostly useless for flower 

or fruit from pips; some of them might do very 
well; however, the* are much better grafted. 
Graft nearly ttuTlfull^pjt, ■ joJ jt^e* stock, and 


make standards of them. The Shaddock will do 
very well. —Lucky. 

9377.—Greenhouse plants.— See reply to query 
9209. 

VEGETABLES 

ONION CULTURE. 

As the manuring and general preparation 
of a seed bed for Onions seems to be evoking 
some discussion, it may not be without interest 
to learn something of the mode of culture 
adopted by a large grower in this locality, who 
annually sows from twenty to thirty acres of 
land with Onion seed for the production of good 
market samples of winter keeping bulbs, and 
also for the production of picklers, for which 
there seems to be an enormous demand. The 
soil is a stiff loam, somewhat clayey in texture, 
is fairly holding and naturally fairly good. 
Onions usually follow upon corn-stubble, Swede 
seed, or other green crop. The land is always 
kept in good condition by ample manuring for 
other crops, and in the autumn prior to the 
sowing season, a good dressing of stable manure 
is spread over the soil, and this is ploughed in to 
a depth of about 10 inches. The soil lies roughly 
all the winter, and towards the spring another 
dressing of manure, this time short and well 
decayed, is drawn out and spread over it. Then 
early in March the horse cultivator is set to work, 
and the soil is broken up to a depth of 3 inches, 
the top-dressing of manure getting thoroughly 
mixed with the soil in the working. The surface 
is then harrowed and rolled; then finely 
harrowed, and is then ready for the seed, which 
is about the middle of March sown broadcast, 
and is once more finely harrowed and well rolled. 

For pickling Onions, about nine pounds of seed 
per acre is sown, but about one-third the 
quantity suffices for the production of a crop of 
market bulbs. When the crop is good—and that 
is the rule—it averages nine to ten tons per acre, 
a very large produoe, and only possible under 
good culture, and in the one case with large bnlbs, 
and in the other with an enormous quantity of 
small ones. Generally the pickier crop is the 
heaviest, because these are produced so thickly, 
literally covering the surface of the soil. The 
market bulbs are not, of course, so large as are 
those to be found in some high-class gardens, 
where special attention is given to the growth of 
show samples, but being of good size, solid, and 
keeping well, are always a very profitable crop. 
It will thus be seen that whilst ample manure is 
used to fertilise the soil, yet only a small quantity 
is added at sowing time, and this not raw and 
fresh, but well decomposed. The use of this 
additional dressing is that it stimulates growth 
rapidly in the young plants, and that is most 
desirable, as Onions are troubled with many 
enemies in the youthful stage, but the more 
rapid and robust the growth the sooner are the 
plants out of danger. A couple of dressings of 
fresh soot is of the greates ; value to the Onion 
plant in its young stage, and hardly less service¬ 
able are frequent flat iioeings, to keep the surface 
of the soil stirred and free from weeds. 

It is not desirable that the roots of Onions 
should be induced to push too low into the soil 
in search of food. Very deep rooting and 
specially feeding upon rank strong manures 
tends to produce too much green top at the ex¬ 
pense of bulb. Where this is the case the exces¬ 
sive stem growth may be, to some extent, 
checked by pinching and bending th» necks over 
so that the strong upward ascent of the Bap is 
cheeked. There can be no doubt that if not the 
very finest, at least the firmest and best 
keeping bulbs are got on soil that is fairly firm. 
In olden days—that is from forty to fifty years 
ago—the routine of preparing a bed was to 
tread and roll the surface until it was quite hard, 
then to mark out the drills, and to make these 
not by drawing them out withahoe, but by beating 
them down with a heavy stout stick to a depth of 
about half-an-inch. The seed was sown and 
covered with fine soil drawn in by means of a 
hoe from between the drills, then the roller 
was again used and the bed left. It will be 
seen that in addition to having good soil for 
Onion beds, our progenitors in gardening were 
firm believers in the value of solidity of the soil 
for Onions, holding as they did that good bulbs 
would come only on the surface, and that to 
secure them there the soil must be solid; that 
the plants should grow on the soil and not in it. 
i llmwlon, A, D. 


9445.— Leeks.— Leek plants that have stood 
the winter, even though sown late, will probably 
ran off to seed early in the summer and be of 
no further survioe. It will be wise to sow seed 
at once in a sheltered plaoe in the garden, 
transplanting the seedlings when 6 inches high 
later on into trenches formed as for Celery, as 
the plants are gross feeders and like plenty of 
stimulus. When strong, they will need earthing 
up some 8 inches to 10 inches in height to 
blanch the stems well, for an unblanched Leek 
is of little value.—A. 

9443.— Peas for seed. —It is much better 
to leave a portion of a row of Pea plants to seed 
entirely, than to let the first pods remain 
to ripen, or the last ones only. In the former 
case the ripening j>ods detraot from the produc¬ 
tive powers of the plant, and the after crop of 
pods together is less, whilst in the latter case 
the last pods are always Ihe weakest, and stock 
is to some extent deteriorated when the smaller 
pods and seeds only are saved.— A. 

-It is considered better to buy seed that 

has been raised on other ground rather than 
grow your own, as nearly all crops do best when 
the seed is changed every year. If “ E. H. H.' 
is desirous of trying to raise his own Pea seed, 
he had better sow a row or two by themselves, 
giving each plant 8 inches or 12 inches of ground. 
The pods should not be taken off the plants till 
they are ripe. All weakly and half-filled pods 
should be picked out, and nothing bnt the 
strongest kept for seed. By changing from one 
part of the garden to another every year you 
may be moderately successful.—G. C., Ecelrs. 

9449.—Picking out Celery.—It is not at 
all necessary that the tap or downward roots 
of Celery plants should be cut away when being 
pricked out. Just then is a time when the 
plants need all their root power to help them to 
recover from the check given in the transplant¬ 
ing; and still further, if the plants are mere seed¬ 
lings, they will have none too much root. Plants 
that have remained in the seed-bed till they are 
6 inches in height, and have become drawn, will 
probably have unduly long roots, which will be 
all the better to be shortened before replanting: 
but the pricking out should be done when the 
plants are much younger.—A. 

-“ E. H. H.” asks, “ .Should the bottoms of 

the roots of Celery seedlings be pinched off when 
pricking them out ?" No, certainly not, as 
whenever the root of a Celery plant is tom or 
cut, it bleeds, and loses part of its strength. 
Both in pricking out seedlings, and also in 
planting Celery into the trenches, care should 
be taken to lift the whole of the roots unbroken. 
They are lest lifted with a little soil adhering 
to them, as they then strike the more readily.— 
G. C„ Eccltt. 

9448.— Planting ABparagua —The fol¬ 
lowing would be a very good mode of treatment: 
The soil should be a light mellow loam, the 
ground should be well drained to a depth of 4 
feet, the surface being covered to a depth of 
3 inches or 4 iDches with well decayed stable- 
yard manure. Trench to a depth of 3 feet, well 
intermixing the manure as the work proceeds. 
When the ground is well prepared, set a line and 
take out a trench sufficiently wide and deep to 
allow of spreading the roots, aDd cover the 
crowns about 2 inches or 3 inches. If the ground 
is heavy and imperfectly drained, cover the roots 
and crowns with sand. During the growing 
season keep the ground free from weeds, and the 
surface open by frequent hoeings ; a soaking of 
manure water may be given with advantage if 
the season be droughty. Clear off the tops in the 
autumn, and apply a dressing of well decayed 
manure, which may be lightly forked in between 
the lines. During the second and following 
seasons, too much manure water cannot be given. 
The plants should not be cut for use until they 
throw up nice strong spikes. The greurnl must 
be well manured every autumn — A. H. Davis, 
Carahalton. 

-Any time for a month or six weeks. Plant 

in shallow trenches 4 feet apart each way, gradu¬ 
ally filling the trenches by top-dressing. When 
in full growth, protect the shoots from being 
broken by the wind.—L ucky. 

9438.—Vegetables for exhibition.— 

For exhibition in August the best coloured round 
Potatoes are Vicar of Lalebam, purple, ac ,q 
Beading Russett, red. These are the two best 


















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Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



46 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 24 , 1883 . 


pipes—a very good arrangement, for if they 
have to be opened in cold weather, the air gets 
warmed before entering the house. These are 
little more than the width of a single brick, 
though by a little alteration in the height of the 
stages, they may be increased to two or more 
courses ; but If made in lengths of about 3 feet, 
and as many as can be got in the space so as to 
allow sufficient brickwork between properly to 
support the wall-plates A A, they will admit 
quite enough air for the majority of greenhouse 
plants, even in summer; and if the house is only 
wanted to keep bedding plants in during winter, 
and to grow cucumbers, &c , in summer, these 
might be dispensed with altogether. However, 
we recommend placing three of these 3 feet 
openings on each side of a 20 feet house. 


Position.— The position or aspect of a 
house needs a few words. A lean-to is usually 
placed against a south wall, if possible, for the 
sake of economy in firing during winter, and 
particularly if any bloom is looked for at that 
season, also where Vines or Cucumbers are 
grown, but in the summer months better results 
can be obtained, as a rule, from a house facing 
ea3t, west, or even north, at least as far as re¬ 
gards most flowering plants. The position of a 
span-roofed house should also depend upon the 
purpose for which it is intended. If merely re¬ 
quired to preserve bedding plants during the 
winter, and to grow Cucumbers or Tomatoes, or 
to remain but slightly occupied in the summer 
months, the house should run north and south, 
as the rafters will break the force of the sun's rays 
to some extent at mid-day, and little or no 
shading will ever be needed. If, on the contrary, 
any class of plants requiring high culture are 
intended to be grown, such as Begonias or 
Gloxinias, or even to bring Zonal Geraniums or 
Fuchsias to a state of perfection, then the house 
should run east and west, and a set of blinds 
be properly arranged on the south side with 
rollers, so as to be readily run up or down when 
required, while the inmates will be greatly 
benefited by the permanent north light thus 
afforded. In all casts an open position os far 
as possible from houses or high walls should be 
chosen for a span house. 

We will now proceed to consider the construc¬ 
tion of the two houses in the figures. In No. 1, 
which is 12 feet in width, and any convenient 
length, say, 20 feet, L L are 9-inch brick walls, 
which we recommend to be partially sunk in the 
ground, as shown. A A are the wall plates, 
which should be of at least 4-inch by 2-inch 
quartering, and if 5-inch by 3-inch can’ be had, 
all the better. These are halved together at 
the corners. The upper course or two of the 
brickwork should be cemented, previously wet¬ 
ting the bricks, to make a sound job. n B are 
the rafters, of 3-inch by 1 J-inch sashbar stuff, 
carefully cut at the ends, and either nailed or 
screwed on to the wall, and ridge plates at top 
and bottom. N is the ridge plate or plank, of 
6-inch by 2-inch deal, bevelled on both sides at 
top, and grooved for the glass. E H are the 
ventilators, to be either glazed or plain wooden 
flaps, as before directed, c c D M is the door¬ 
way, 6 feet by 2 feet, the posts and lintel of 
3-inch by 2-inch stuff, the narrow way facing 
you.andM the sill,of 4 inches by 3 inches, with the 
posts mortised into it. The door may be either 
framed together and glazed down to the wall 
plates and panelled below, or a plain clamp 
door of J-inch boards will answer every purpose. 
H H are the Iters to take the end glass ; they 
should be of 2-inch by 1-inch stuff, and strips of 
deal, about 1£ inch by jf inch, can be tacked 
along the door posts and on the underside of the 
end rafters (which, by the way, should be of 

3- inch by 2-inch stuff) to take the other edges of 
the glass; this is much easier, and, I think, on 
the whole better than grooving*. G G are the 

4- inch hot-water pipes; a single row of this size 
all round a house 12 feet wide will be amply 
sufficient for all greenhouse plants; if more 
heat than this is likely to be required, it would 
be better to put a 3-inch flow and return along 
each side. The side ventilators, F f, are merely 
1-inch boards hinged along the upper edge, with 
a button to eaoh to keep them closed. 


Stages. —Now for the ordinary run of green¬ 
house plants we recommend the side stages to 
be constructed as shown on the left hand side, 
viz., with a 4^-inch brick wall k, the space so 
formed filled up with earth, ashes, or almost any 
r ubbish, and finis|rfkr*<fff_with 




winches of 


gravel or ballast, and a concrete surface of sand 
and cement at I I, which forms, in our opinion, 
about the best bottom for most plants to stand 
upon. If hard-wooded plants. Begonias, or any¬ 
thing requiring a free circulation of air are to be 
grown, or if a space is required under the stage 
to store away dormant roots or plants of any 
kind, a stage formed as at j j would be prefer¬ 
able. This is made of 4-inch by 1-inch bearers, 
supported by 3-inch by 3-inch posts, at intervals 
of 2 feet 6 inches or 3 feet, with battens about 

inches by 1 inch nailed across, leaving 1 inch 
between each. Snch a house as this will be 
found of the very simplest construction, and far 
more effective than a more pretentious structure. 

We will now take No. 2. The construction is 
very similar. The stuff to be employed is about 
the same size in all cases as that recommended 
in No. 1. The bouse is, however, planned for 
10 feet wide, the doorway 5 feet from the front 
wall, and 2 feet 8 inches from the back. The 
brickwork in front is 2 feet 3 inches high, and to 
the top of the upper plate A at the eaves is 
3 feet 6 inches. This upper plate is of 4-inch by 
2 inch stuff, and the lower one A of fi-inch by 

3- inch, bevelled off in front, and with a 
groove run along the under side 1 inch from 
the front, as shown, to keep the drip away 
from the wall. The upper and lower plates 
are connected by 3-inch by 3-inch posts or styles, 
mortised in at top and bottom. These should 
be placed nearly 3 feet apart. The spaces 
are fitted with glazed sashes r, each 11 inches 
wide, hinged at top and fitted with racks to open 
and afford ventilation. The front stage, 1 I, is 
shown solid, with concrete top, as recommended 
before, but a lattice stage may be substituted if 
desired. The back stage, J J, is made either of 
close boards or open battens, and can be used to 
stand large plants upon, or for pots or boxes with 
oreepers for the wall. The top ventilators are 
made 3 feet long, and to cover two spaces if the 
rafters are 18 inches apart, or three if there are 
only 1 foot or 15 inches, o' are 2-inch pipes, 
flow and return, and G" a 3-inch flow and 
return, or these may be 4-inch. These will warm 
the house sufficiently if the aspect is south. 
There should be a cock or valve on each set, the 
front pair to be generally used, and the back 
ones only brought into action in severe weather. 

If the front bed, 11 , were drained and filled with 
good soil, this would form a capital house for 
the growth of Vines; or if for Cucumbers a false 
perforated bottom (kiln tiles supported by 
| irons are about the best for this) should be 
placed 15 inches from the top, upon which 
drainage and earth are put, and underneath a 

4- inch flow aDd return pipe to furnish bottom 

heat, and if possible a few evaporating pans 
should be arranged on the pipes. Bat for either 
of these purposes, for producing cat flowers, 
especially in winter, or indeed for almost any 
purpose, the span house. No. 1, would be found 
to produce better results, mainly on account of 
the more full and free light afforded by this 
form of construction. In glazing, bed and tack 
the glass in well, and trim off neatly inside and 
out, but use no outside putty, which is entirely 
unnecessary,, and only becomes a nuisance and 
an eyesore. B. C. R. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 

(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

9283.— Making lawn.—The ground must 
be gone over again and again until all traces of 
the Couch-grass are removed; Chickweed will 
not do much harm. It must be dug over quite 
evenly, and carefully levelled both lengthways 
and across. If the soil is naturally somewhat light 
and dry, or on a well-drained bottom, such as 
gravel, this will be sufficient; but if very heavy 
or retentive, the ground should be thoroughly 
drained before commencing any further opera¬ 
tions, left for a time to settle, and if very damp 
or clayey, a quantity of ashes, grit, or some 
open material should be worked in near the sur¬ 
face as well, for grass seldom or never does 
really well on a close or “ soapy ” surface. When 
levelled, rake all rough stones or clods off, and 
if really good turf can be easily obtained, use it, 
rolling and beating it down well after laying. 
Otherwise seed is the best, and in this oase the 
surface must be made very fine and even, and 
good seed be thickly sown, and then just dusted 
over with very finely sifted soil. The first week 
in April is the best time for sowing grass seed, 


but turf may be laid at almost any time in spring 
or autumn. If seed is sown the ground must not 
be trampled on till the grass is tit to cut. This 
should be done the first two or three times with 
a very sharp Bcythe; when the turf gets pretty 
strong tlie machine may be used, but not before. 
If turf is laid and hot or dry weather follows, it 
must be kept well watered or the grass will 
speedily perish.—B. C. R. 

9378.— Greenhouse building.— It is cer¬ 
tainly more economical to carry a flue through 
the hous;, if it can be done, as much less heat is 
wasted; but it must be borne in mind that the 
height of the chimney from the furnace level 
must equal the horizontal length of flue, or the 
draught will not be good. Bo you would want 
a chimney 30 feet high, or 25 feet at the very 
least. A better plan would be to carry the flue 
across one end (the warmest or stove end) from 
front to back; it is also a very good arrange¬ 
ment to take the flow-pipe from the boiler, in a 
1$ or 2-inch pipe, along inside such a fine, with 
a gentle rise all the way, and thence into the 
pipes. In this way a great deal of heat that 
would otherwise be lost is utilised. The flue 
should be made large, and be swept frequently. 
Ten or twelve feet would be a very good height 
for such a house, and 8 feet high at the 
back and 4 feet 6 inches or 5 feet in front, 
with a wide stage in front and a narrow 
one behind, would be suitable. Three-inch 
battens nailed on to cross bearers make a good 
dry pathway, and slate slabs form capital 
stages; but on the whole I should prefer con¬ 
crete, both for paths and stages. This is easily 
kept either dry or damp ; it is also always hard, 
level, cool, and clean. Some like open lattice 
stages, and if room is wanted beneath, or a low 
temperature only kept up, these are also good. 
—B. C. R. 

- I suppose “ Amateur ” means to utilise 

the heat of the existing furnace still further by 
carrying the smoke flue as well as the water- 
pipes through the house. If he consults a hor¬ 
ticultural engineer, as he ought to do, I think he 
will be told to abandon this idea, even if it should 
be found quite practicable. Flues inside a green¬ 
house are not desirable when hot water is at 
hand.—P. R. 

9440.—Repairing old lawns.— Clean out 
the weeds and rake off the Moss, and top-dress 
at once with fine leaf-mould or road Bcrapings, 
and sow some lawn grass seed, then give a good 
rolling. The following spring give a light 
dressing of two-thirds soot and one of lime 
mixed.—L ucky. 

-Relay the bare places at once with new 

turf if readily procurable. If not, then early in 
April loosen the soil lightly with a fork, break 
down finely all lumps and sow moderately thick 
with lawn grass seeds. Beat down slightly with 
the back of a spade, when the seeds will be half 
covered, and then sift over them a quarter of an 
inch of fine rich soil. They will soon germinate, 
and the patches become green in a few weeks. 
The only effectual method of getting rid of snch 
tap-rooted weeds as Docks and Dandelions is to 
cut them off below the crown with a knife, draw 
out the top and then drop in each hole a good 
pinch of Balt. This will destroy the roots, which 
would otherwise soon send up three or four new 
plants each to replace the old one, and thus 
make matters worse. If the lawn be extensive 
and the weeds numerous, this process will doubt¬ 
less prove a tedious one, but, as there is no royal 
road to the acquirement of a good lawn, 
perseverance will be found to work wonders. 
When the bare patches have become green and 
the weeds destroyed, give the lawn a dressing of 
bonedust during showery weather, at the rate of 
about two or three pounds to the square rod. 
Soot [may be also applied with advantage, but 
its effects are only temporary. Roll frequently 
and mow often to keep down the coarse grasses 
and allow the finer and dwarfer herbage a chance 
to spread and predominate.—J. Martin. 

9429.— Edging tiles— Requiring a similar 
number of tiles (or something similar to replace 
600 yards of Box edging) to that mentioned by 
“ E. L. U.,” I first thought to have Broseley tiles 
similar in all respects to the blue Staffordshire. 
Finding, however, that the railway charges 
so much enhanced their cost, I looked out for 
something else, and have now what I consider a 
far better article for kitchen garden use than 
tiles. When ordering some slates from Cornwall 
for roofing purposes the seller sent with the 



^ March 24, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


47 


slates a number of waste pieces, being the 
refuse after sawing slabs for cisterns and window 
sills. These pieces vary in length from 2 feet to 
4 feet, in width l inch, and depth seldom less 
tlian 12 inches, and generally at least 16 inches. 
This great length and depth compared with tiles, 
. which are generally only 9 inches each way, 
makes them more useful where much digging is 
done as they are firm when once put into position. 
They cost me at station 2d. per foot run, which 
is about the price at the works of Broseley tiles 
with the rope pattern at top.—K. M. 

-The fireclay edging tiles with the cable- 

pattern top will be found to suit well for the 
kitchen garden. Every tile has a hole at each 
end into which a wooden pin can be fitted. 
When a firm and straight and level bed has been 
made for the tiles to rest upon, one tile is laid 
with the pin firmly filed in the end to which 
another tile is to be joined. The pin is left pro¬ 
jecting about an inch, and another tile is fitted 
on to this, and so on to the end of the row. By 
means of the pins the tiles support each other, 
and the line may be kept straight and level for 
a long time if care is taken during the digging 
season not to allow the spade to disturb it. 
Before the digging commences, the spade should 
be made to cut into the ground, all along and 
inside the line, but in a direction sloping from 
the top of the tiles. When this is done care¬ 
fully, the bed is not so liable to sink and pro¬ 
duce those irregularities which are so often seen 
in tile edgings.—P. B. 

-A plain tile or brick 12 inches in length, 

6 inches in depth, 3 inches broad at the base 
and 14 inches at the top, which should be plain 
and rounded, makes one of the most permanent 
and satisfactory edgings to be fotmd. In fixing 
the tiles the soil should be taken out 4 inches in 
depth, the furrow made perfectly level with sand 
or fine soil, and fairly firm, then as the tiles are 
placed end to end a little good mortar orcement 
should be plaoed in the joint, not only to keep 
the tiles firm to each other, but also to prevent 
weeds from getting into the joints. Such an 
edging properly laid at the first will last a life¬ 
time, and is far preferable to any kind of caile 
or fancy pattern tile.—A. D. 

- Any pattern of Staffordshire tiles can be 

used, and look very well, but good stock bricks 
are the most serviceable. They can be put 
down with the side or angular edge up. Wheel¬ 
barrows should not be run over edgings. Get a 
span-shaped block of wood and nail two fiat 
pieces to it, and place it by the side of the 
edging.—L ucky. 

9380.—Flower seeds for the Oape.— 

Mignonette and Sweet Peas would be suitable, 
but should be sown early, or would probably get 
burnt up before flowering. The following seeds 
would do well in the warm and somewhat dry 
climate of the Cape: Amarantus of sorts, 
Anchnsa, Asters, Balsams, Brachycome, Browallia, 
Calandrinia, Celosia, Clarkia, Clianthus, Dahlia, 
Egg Plant, Eschscholtzia, Geranium, Godetia, 
Helichrysum, Hibiscus, Jacobsea, Kennedya, 
I.eptosiphon, Linmanthes, Linum, Lobelia, 
Marigold, Marvel of Peru, Maurandya, Mesem- 
brvantbemum, Mimulus, Nemophila, Nicotiana, 
Nolana, Oxalis, PenUtemon, Phlox Drummondi, 
Portulaca, Bhodanthe, Ricinus, fialpiglossis, 
.Schizanthus, Sunflower, ZiDnia. Petunias and 
Verbenas also grow splendidly from seed at the 
Cape, and make a grand display.—B. C. B. 

9434.— Hoe and fork combined— Com¬ 
bination tools are of very questionable value. 
If a fork is needed, a plain, stout, digging steel 
fork is worth a score of fancy combination tools, 
and if a hoe be needed, then a proper hoe is the 
best tool to be had. The two things conjoined 
are incompatible. The best tool we have seen 
of a combined form is neither fork nor hoe, but 
is a pickfork. The handle is of good ash, light, 
and not too stout, whilst the actual tool is a 
light, fiat blade, 4 inches across at one end, and 
a prong fork with two tines 4 inches long at the 
other. This is a first-rate tool.—A. D. 

—— This implement is seldom, if ever, kept 
in stock at the tool shops, but is usually made to 
order by country blacksmiths. It is formed with 
an eye, similar to that of a mattock, to receive 
the handle. On one side of the eye, welded to 
a shank 2 inches in length, is a common hoe, 
and opposite to this is similarly fixed what may 
he termed a small cultivator, consisting of three 
fiat tines about 3 inches or 
be handy it should be light! 


the shanks bent inwards, and forming with the 
handle an angle of about 70°. A tool of this kind 
6 inches wide will be found the most useful size 
in the garden, the fork end being chiefly used 
for stirring the soil deeply amoDggrowing crops. 
—J. Martin. 

9444.— Waterproofing calico.— Pine 
white calico may be made waterproof by steep¬ 
ing it in raw linseed oil, then wringing it out, 
and stretching it npon a frame to dry, when it 
may receive a coat or two of linseed oil on both 
sides. When dry it will be found impervious to 
wet.—G. C., Ecclet. 

- I have used a composition consisting of 

linseed oil, litharge, and resin for this purpose, 
but find that linseed oil alone answers equally 
well. First make a framework of the required 
size by nailing together four pieces of deal bat¬ 
tens, procurable at any builders, and then fit in, 
longitudinally, narrowstrips of the same material 
about. 18 inches apart. Stretch over this a piece 
of new, unbleached calico, turn in the edges 
and fasten down tightly with tinned tacks; 
apply the oil with a large soft brush, rubbing it 
well in till the calico is uniformly saturated, 
and then set aside to dry. Lights thus made 
are perfectly waterproof and transparent, and 
for raising cuttings during the summer or 
growing such plants as require partial shade, 
are superior to glass. When not in use they 
should be placed under cover, as the calico soons 
gets weather-stained and opaque.—J. Martin. 

9378 and 9405.— Lean-to greenhouse.— 
Many answers have appeared to such questions, 
and no fixed rule can be given beyond this: 
That the slope of roof should be equal to half 
the width—that is, if 10 feet wide and 6 feet 
high in front, the back must be 10 feet high; 
or if 12 feet wide and 4.J feet front, the back 
wall should be 10 feet 6 inches high. The size 
otherways must depend on space and means at 
disposal—9 feet to 12 feet wide with path down 
centre, flat stage in front, and a three-stepped 
stage at back. Hot-water pipes should be near 
the front; they are not wanted at back, but 
where convenient the flue from boiler to chimney 
can be utilised under the bask stage.—B. W. W. 

9407.—Orimson Rose.—One of the most 
abundant blooming of all crimson coloured 
Roses is Noble's KiDg of the Iiedders. It blooms 
in clusters and for a long period. One of the 
most favoured of crimson Roses with the market 
growers is General Jacqueminot, an old Hybrid 
Perpetual, but flowers very freely. The double 
crimson China is very charming, but still some¬ 
what delicate, and is liable to injury from severe 
frosts in hard winters.— D. 

9439.— Dissolving bones. —The manure 
manufacturers dissolve bones by breaking them 
np small first, and then steeping them in sul¬ 
phuric acid or vitriol for several hours in a huge 
tank. The bones absorb the vitriol, and are 
softened; then, being mixed with phosphates 
and other dry ingredients, are finally sifted, 
and, being dried, are bagged and sent out for 
use.—D. 

9458.—Tuberous Begonias.—Do not put the Be¬ 
gonias in a hotbed, which will draw them up and make 
them weak. Shake them out aud put in aa small pots aa 
they will go Into, and keep shitting aa they make root.— 
Heath Esi>. 

9444.— Waterproofing calico —Dress It two or 
three times separately with boiled linseed oil, warm. To 
keep it from cracking mix a little lampblack with the 
oil.—L ucky. 

9441.—How to soften old putty.—Pass a hot iron 
over the putty, and cut it away while soft with an old 
knife or chisel.—S. Q. B. 


Salsafy.— A A'etc Subscribtr .—Sow in the open ground 
at the end of this mouth or beginning of April in drills 
ten Inches apart. When up thin out the plants to eight 
iucheB apart. 

Mimulus.—Probably Mimulus cardinalis is the plant 
you refer to. 

A Mother .—Your question ia out of our province.- 

T. H. H.—Apply to Mr. Dean, Bedfont, Hounslow, Mid¬ 
dlesex- D. If. N. B .—Try Messrs. Barr and Sons, 

12, King Street Coveut Garden, London.- A. T. H. W. 

- Get a descriptive catalogue from some nurseryman. 
We have not space to give descriptions of plants. 

J. M .—Unfasten the branches from the wail and scrub 
them with strong soapsuds. Also well wash the wall. 

- D. H .—It is impossible for us to tell the cause of the 

branches of your Apple trees dying unless we were on the 

spot.- M. C. C.— Pay a visit to Measrs. Veltch's nursery 

at Chelsea, or Mr. Williams's nursery, Upper Holloway. 


QUERIES. 

Roles for Correspondents. —A U communica¬ 
tions for insertion should Is dearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
and address of the sender is required , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the Query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece qf paper. Owina to the necessity qf 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day qf publication , it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

9482. —Orchard house. — I have a small lean-to 
greenhouse, 9 feet wide, which I am desirous of utilising 
for the growth of small pyramidal fruit trees In pots. 
For the reception of the pots I propose to arrange the 
house in the following manner : To form the floor into 
three wide steps, running the length of the house, each 
step being 3 feot wide, and rising 1 foot. This I propose 
to ao by sinking a trench 1 foot deep along the front, 
leaving the middle step the present level of the ground, 
and raising the back step 1 foot, covering these steps, on 
which I propose to place the pots, 2 Inches deep with 
fine cinders, to keep the worms from getting into the pots. 
Will anyone kindly tell me whether this plan will 
answer, or whether it is neeesaarv tout the steps be 
formed of prepared soil, into which the trees may strike 
down their roots? Will they also tell me whether, aa 
the house is 0 feet high in front and about 9 feet 6 Inches 
at the back, the trees would be too far from the glass, 
and if so, would they do if raised on rough wooden stages ; 
also, if the trees are placed out-of-doors in the winter, 
the pots should be placed on ashes or sunk into the 
ground ?— Somersetshire. 

9483. —Flowers for bleak aspect.—Will some 
reader tell me what flowers will grow In a garden that is 
always subjected to a thorough draught. North-east 
and south-west winds play havoc with everything planted 
there—Pansies are dwarfed, Snowdrops appear In leaf 
only, Crocuses are levelled to the ground directly they 
peep out, and even the hardy white Arabis grows stunted. 

I have dotted a few hardy shrubs about for protection, 
but they grow all on one side and look wiud-worried, and 
the few climbers I have planted up the house live but do 
not move. From the situation the draught cannot be 
prevented; the wind rushes between the houses a short 
distance away. A close fence would do much good, but 
I may not alter the existing open iron railing. As the 

rincipal windows in the house overlook this bleak spot, 

should like a few flowers in the beds on the crass, anil 
a few suggestions to this effect would be very thankfully 
received by—E. G. C. 

9484. —Artificial manure.—Some time since I read 
in Gardening that a mixture of 4 ounces of sulphate 
of ammonia, 2 ounces nitrate of potash, and 1 ounce 
of white sugar dissolved in a quart of water was a useful 
manure. One tableapoou^ul of this mixture added to a 
gallon of water, and given at every other watering was 
most beneficial to all conservatory plants. I have 
adopted it. and find that while it appears to promote the 
growth of foliage of some plants, such as Abutllons, there 
are other plants which it appears to have seriously injured, 
and in some cases killed : this more particularly applies 
to Ferns and tender plants. Will anyone Inform me how 
this manure is safely to be used for various plants, or If 
it is unsuitable for Ferns?— Somersetshire. 

9486. —Filmy Feme.—Under a 12-inch bell gloss in 
my dwelling-house I have a Todea nuperba along with 
Hymenophylltim Tunbridgense and H. Wilsoni. The 
Todea. which is in the centre, has so grown this last year 
that the fronds now touch the glass all round, and I shall 
have to provide more commodious quarters for them, and 
for a Killarney Fern that I have just obtained. Would 
they do well each potted singly, and enclosed in a box 
with gloss sides and lid, or can anyone suggest something 
better ? I shall be glad of any hints as to the best 
method of providing for them, and also for information 
aa to propagation, with names of other Ferns that would 
thrive with them.—F ilmy. 

9480.—Bronze Geraniums and Mignonette'.— 
A friend has sent me a bronze Geranium, whi h took a 
first prize last September, and as it has not been inter¬ 
fered with since, I should be obliged if someone 
would kindly advise me how to treat it. I believe it was 
cut down last March. It is beginning to put forth leaf 
nicely. Should it be cut down now, and changed into a 
smaller pot, or left as it is. Also, when is the proper time 
to sow M ignonette, and the best kind for exhibition first 
week in September.—S ubscriber. 

9487. —Mushrooms without manure.—A recent 
number of Gardening contaius an article by "Celer et 
Audax,” on muahroom growiKg, in which he says they 
can be grown without manure, out on straw; yet he does 
not say whether the boxes are to be kept in a hot room 
or covered up. Perhaps “Celer et Audax” will kindly 
say. If this plan will answer, very few people will go to 
the trouble of using manure. I am afraid the bottom of 
the box will be too cold. How many bricks should be 
put in a box 3 feet by 1 foot 6 inches wide 7 —Inquirer. 

9488. —Plants and seeds for border.—I have a 
border 53 feet by 3 feet facing east, and there is a wall at 
the back. It gets the sun from about 9 a.m. till 2.30 p.m. I 
have some flower seeds, and am able to raise the tender 
sorts in a cold frame. The soil is in parts loom and in 
others heavy clay. Would bedding plants, such as 
Geraniums and Calceolarias, do, ana what flower seeds 
would be the best? If any reader would kindly tell me 
I should be extremely obliged.—A. E. Hall. 

9489. — Hydrangeas not blooming. — About 
eighteen months ago I procured a number of Hydrangeas, 
strong bushy plants. 1 kept them in a cool vinery, and 
before starting cut them down about half way, but they 
did not yield a single bunch of bloom ln3t summer, 
although they made plentv of wood and to all appearance 
were in perfect health. Will someone give me the reason, 
or tell me how to avoid a similar failure this Bummer?— 
contretemps. 

9400.—Llllacd virglnalw.-I have a Lilimn virginalo 
which, on re potting lately, I found surrounded by weak 


V inches long. 




Names of plants.— P. D. D.—Probably Mathotiana, 
but such flowers can only be named with certainty by a 

specialist who has the means of comparison.- J. W. T. 

}‘— Sisyrinchum grandiflorum. 



48 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 24 , 1883 . 


small off-shoots, or bulbs, and I unfortunately broke the 
leading shoot growing Iron) the big or chief bulb. 
Knowing but little of gardening, I shall be glad of any in¬ 
formation on the subject.—L ilium. 

9191.- Earth-cloeet manure. -1 have a large quan¬ 
tity of soil from earth-closets. Will someone oblige me 
by stating what is the best method of treating this, so as 
to make it of use in the garden? If merely laid in a 
heap. I find that it Is full of maggots and too hot for use. 
Would the addition of Balt or soot or bo ll be of any good ? 
—Subscriber. 

9)92.— Bose election of 1882.—In Gardening of 
January 20, Mr. Walters kindly volunteered to give 
“ Sam ” the result of the above election for Teas ami 
Noisettes. As the list has not yet appeared, I presume 
it has not been asked for. May I now ask Mr. Walters 
kindly to give it?—W. B. 

9493 —Cost of sommer-house.—I am going to put 
up a summer-house, size 7 feet by 7 feet. 1 wish it to be 
as cheap as possible ; roof thatched. What would be a 
reasonai-le eharge, carpenter finding the materials? Any 
information on tne subject gratefully received by—A 
New Subscriber. 

9494. —Stopping and pinching.— "ill someone 
explain fully and clearly the meaning of stopping and 
pin chine, and say how to do it? I am going to grow 
gome Cucumbers on a hotbed, and as I know nothing 
about their culture I shall be glad of a few hints on the 
subject.—F irst Attempt. 

9495. —Cheap manure.—Will “.Surgeon” kindly 

f ;ive fuller details respecting the use of green vitriol 
n his ea>th closet ? Dues he use it every time that the 
closet is used, and is it applied in a powdered or in a 
dissolved state ? If latter, is it dissolved in warm water? 
Does he dispense with earth or ashes altogether7— 
E. H. H. 

9496 —Magnolias.—What can be done with a large 
Magnoiia trained against the walls of a house, the leaves 
of which the hist three months have begun to curl up and 
get Drown ? The aspect is south-west, the soil is light 
»nd sandy. The plant has done well till lately.— 
L. D. W. 

9497.—Potatoes for exhibition.—W r ill any reader 
give me the names of the best late and best early Pota¬ 
toes to grow for exhibition, and also what would be the 
beat artificial manure for them? 1 would like to know if 
ammonia would Buit them or any other vegetables?— 
Tatties. * 

9498.—Azalea buds withering—Can anyone tell 
me the reason why Azalea buds go brown and withered 
instead of expanding ? I have a very fine plant well set 
with bloom buds, bub instead of opening they are 
gradually going brown and falling off.— Amateur. 

9499.-Plai.ts for baskets. — Would any reader 
kindly infoi m me what plants would look best in wire 
baskets hanging from front of house, aspect north-west, 
and for variety, would ornamental grasses look well; If 
so, which kinds?-M ontpellier. 

9500.—Lavender.—Can anyone tell me why young 
Lavender plants die ofl ? I have tried both cuttings and 
seeds, but cannot get them to grow well. I should be 
glad of directions for the successful culture of this sweet 
old-fashioned herb.— Knockmaroon. 

9501.- Spot on Pelargonium leaves.—I am at a 
loss to know the cause and cure of spot on my show 
Pelargoniums. They were potted last autumn in loam 
and Band, and have since been in a cold greenhouse. 
Can anyone assist me?—A nxious. 

9502.-Pony for mowing-machine.—I have a 
quiet pony ihat I wish to use for the roller and mowing- 
machine. What kind of harness do I want for each, and 
ia there any difficulty in teaching the pony to draw them ? 
—H. F. P. 

9503.—Dilapidated fence.—The owner of the fence 
bounding my garden on one side lms allowed it, by many 
ears’ nt gleet, to become in a very dilapidated state ; also 
is tenants throw all kinds of rubbish through. What 
remedy have I ?—Y. Z. 

950k—Boses in greenhouee.—I am constructing 
a small unseated house wherein to grow Tea Roses. They 
will be planted in a border. What space should be 
allowod between each plant, and what distance should 
the border be from the gloss ?—W. B. 

9596.—Vines lrom eyes.—A friend has sent me 
some eyeB or cuttings from Grapo Vines ; I put them 
into pots, four in each, and placed them in a cool green¬ 
house. Kindly tell me if this is right, and advise me as 
to future treatment ?— F. 

9606.—Sow.ng Melon and Cucumber seeds.— 
Information wanted about the sowing of Melon, Cucum¬ 
ber, and Vegetable Marrow seeds in a frame. What degree 
of bottom heat Is required, and when the plants appear 
how eught they to be treated ?—A New Subscriber, 
9507.—Cucumbers decaying.— Will some reader 
kindly state the cause of my Cucumbers decaying at the 
base of the stem ? They are young plants, and are in 
houses, any infoimation will obi is e.—W. R. 

9503.—Tomato culture.—Will someone kindly say 
If it is possible to fruit Tomato plants two or more con¬ 
secutive seasons without renewing them, or should young 
plants be raised yearly ?—R. 8. 

95°9. — Manure water.—I have a tank into which all 
the liquid manure runs from my stable. Is it too strong 
to use for Roses ; if so, how much water must be mixed 
with it ?—Vicar. 

9510.—Marigolds for show.—Will some reader 
kindly give me a few bints on the culture of Marigolds 
for exhibition in the third week in July, when to sow, 
and the management after sowing?—AMATEUR. 

9511.—Nitrate of potash.—Can any reader givo me 
instructions as to how nitrate of potash should be used 
for Pelargoniums and Roses in pots ? I wish to use it as 
a liquid manure.—I gnoramus. 

9512.—Fowls in gardens.—My neighbours have 
about a dozen pigeons and also fowls which do my garden 
much damage by destroying my young green crops. 
What ii my remedy ?—Y. Z. 

9513.—Solanums^-W ill 
treat my Solan umjAlirongh t 



9514.—Gaillardlas.—I got some seeds of Gaillardia 
picta and G. plcta murginata, and have sown them in 
boxes and placed them in a cold frame. Will some reader 
kindly tell me how I should now treat them ?—A. E. HALL. 

9516.- Keeping vegetables In winter.— What is 
the best way of keeping Onions, Potatoes, and Sa'.safy 
through the winter?—A New Subs riijbr. 

9516. —Daisies on lawns.—Will someone giveinfor- 
mntion as to the beat mode of eradicating Daisies and 
Dindelions from lawns ?— North. 

9517. —Pansies in pots.—Will someone tell me If 
Pansy cuttings will strike root In May and flower in the 
autumn if put in pots in a cold frame.—A. T. H. W. 

9518. —Sea sand for lawn.—Will any reader tell 
me if sea-sand would injure a lawn if used, as quarry 
Band is recommended ?—F. K. C. 

6519.—Wire netting for Peas.- I shall bo glad to 
know the opinion of some experienced reader respecting 
wire netting as a support for Peua?—E. II. II. 

962 ’.—Date Palme.— Would some correspondent 
kiudly tell me the best way to raise the above from seed 
and subsequent treatment ?—W. T. u. 

6521. — Tropeeolum specloeum.—Can this be 
grown well from seed, and ft so raised, will it flower the 
first year.—M. C. C. 

9622.—Cauliflower.—What distance apart should 
Carter’s Mont Blanc Cauliflower be planted ?—E. H. H. 


POULTRY. 

Turkeya.— B. j. G.— We would not recom¬ 
mend you to put turkey’s eggs under a Brahma 
hen. They are very delicate birds, and as they 
grow would miss the extra protection afforded 
by the turkey hen. If you do try the experiment 
do not place more than six or seven egg8 under 
the Brahma. Leghorns certainly are good flyers, 
but we should have thought a fence 8 feet high 
would have kept them within bounds. Only cut 
one wing, and that not too close to the flesh, so 
that no cruelty will be practised. For chickens 
just hatched nothing is better than placing them 
in a hamper half filled with soft hay, and putting 
same before a moderate fire. To mate a Brahma 
cockerel nine months old with pullets the same 
age is to ensure only weakly chickens as the 
result, or at least they will be of small size. 
The cock should be a two year old bird if mated 
with pullets. The eggs, will, however, prove 
equally fertile in both cases. We do not under¬ 
stand yonr expression “ broken yolks.” It is as 
well to leave sitting eggs alone during the 
process of incubation.— Andalusian. 

Chicken dyin g.—A. T —Your chicken 
suffered from cramp. Although the winter has 
been most trying for early hatched broods, yet 
nine out of every ten poultry keepers make 
matters worse by too much pampering. You 
state you re were kept in the house for three 
weeks. This is quite unnecessary, and only 
tends to make them delicate, so that they suc¬ 
cumb to the first exposure. What is required is 
plenty of liberty after the first two or three days, 
providing, of course, a good shelter in the shape 
of a roomy coop, free from draughts, and 
placed so as always to have the wind at the 
back. It should also be placed on a dry piece 
of ground and the position changed every day, 
so that the birds may not be subject to the 
many ills arising from tainted ground. We are 
quite sure if there was no confinement after the 
youngsters could run there would be no such 
thing as cramp. Of course, there are generally 
one or two weakly members in every brood, 
which would, under any circumstances, require 
a little extra attention, but still, on the whole 
it is besl to sacrifice these in order to rear the 
remainder to good robust birds. The treatment 
of cramp is very simple. The chicken must be 
taken away from the hen and confined in a 
hamper or basket before the fire with plenty of 
soft, clean straw. Bathe its legs and feet in 
warm mustard and water two or three times a 
day, gently opening and expanding the toes 
while under water, and afterwards drying with 
a warm flannel and replacing in the basket. If 
the chicken does not take kindly to its food 
when away from the mother, it must be replaced 
under her every night and taken away again 
early in the morning. We need scarcely add 
that the patient must be fed on the best food, 
including meat, and if a little tonic be added to 
the drinking water, so much the better. —Anda¬ 
lusian. 

Yolks of eggs — J. C. P.—k grass run 
is all that is necessary to ensure your hens 
laying deeply coloured yolked eggs. Fowls in 
confinement, unless plentifully supplied with 
green food, especially grass, will lay pale coloured 
eggs.—R. M. 


BIRDS. 

Birds in large cage.— “ Siskin’s ” 44 large 
cage *’ of 2.J feet by lj feet is a miserably small 
affair. “ Siskin ” t-hould by no means keep more 
than one pair of birds in it. A rule for bird- 
keepers is to allow one bird to each foot frontage 
of the cage or aviary, so if “Siskin ” does nor 
want a pair he can keep three, say canaries, in 
his little cage.—W. T. Greene, F.Z.S. 

Parrakeet plucking its feathers — 
About three months ago I bought a green South 
American parrakeet, which I was informed was 
then moulting. I have since discovered, to my 
dismay, that the bird is constantly pulling its 
feathers and eating them. I give it plenty of 
liberty, and keep it chiefly on caDary seed: it 
bathes frequently, is a very cheerful bird, and 
talks plainly. Can any reader tell me wbat to 
do to cure it of this objectionable habit ?— 
K. M. S. 

Books on British birds. — Cassell? 
“Canaries and cage birds,’or Rev. J. "Woods 
numerous works on birds might be useful to 
“ F. Hayhurst,” but 1 would especially recom¬ 
mend Bechstein's “Natural history of cage birds, 
which includes most of the British and conti¬ 
nental varieties, and though an old work has 
not as yet been improved upon.— W. T. Greene. 
F. Z. 8. 

-One of the best is “The birds of Great 

Britain and Ireland.” It forms a part of •• Tbe 
naturalist’s library,” edited by Sir William 
Jardine. Any of the dealers in natural history 
objects could procure a copy of one of the 
cheaper editions.— P. R. 


BEES. 

Bee food.— /. Q. B.— Take four pounds of 
loaf sugar, one pound of honey, and quarter 
ounce of goo*, vinegar, and put these with plenty 
of water into a stew-pan, skim and boil down 
to a thick syrup like new honey. Should the 
stock of bees be weak in the spring, a small 
quantity of old rum added to the above is ex¬ 
cellent food, and will restore them when other 
food has failed. I am aware that old rum is an 
innovation, and have no doubt its usefulness 
will be doubted, but on the authority of an old 
bee-keeper of my acquaintace, who for years has 
kept and made money by bees, I can safely 
recommend the spirit, which it must be observed 
is a product of the sugar plant, and may be 
termed perhaps the essence of sugar. Of course, 
a small quantity only must be given in tne syrup. 
W. W., Beljjer. 

- J. G. B .—The syrup given now should 

be composed of three pounds of sugar to one 
quart of water, with the addition of a dessert¬ 
spoonful of vinegar and a small pinch of sail, 
boiled for two or three minutes, and, kept stirred 
to prevent the burning of the sugar, burnt sugar 
being very unwholesome for bees. Loaf sugar is 
best for feeding purposes, although relined moist 
i9 sometimes used; coarse brown sugar is not at 
all suitable.—S. S. G., Boxn orth . 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 

Gorgonzola cheese. — English made 
Gorgonzolas were exhibited at the last Dairy 
Show, I think, by Mr. Jubal Webb, of Kensing¬ 
ton. They were made by Mr. Edward Lovett, 
farmer, Nether Broughton, near Melton Mow¬ 
bray, from a recipe brought by Mr. Webb from 
Italy. Whether either of them will give your 
correspondent a copy of the recipe I cannot 
tell. Nether Broughton is at the head of the 
vale of Bel voir, and is the head quarters of the 
Stilton cheese district. The Gorgonzolas made 
there seem to me like very rich Stiltons. They 
have not the peculiar flavour of the Italian 
cheese.—C. G. 

Keeping baoon.— Can any reader inform 
me which is the best way to keep bacon after 
it has been well dried 1 I have been told it will 
keep well if put in a chest and well covered with 
fine dry' lime or malt combs. Any information 
as to the above will oblige.—J. C. 

Pikelets.—I should be glad if someone would kindly 
describe the whole process of making pikelets ; also the 
kind of stove, Ac., required.—G. M. S. 

Balm wine.—I should be much obliged for a 
recipe for making bairn wine.— Jane. 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol, V. 


MARCH 31, 1883. 


Ho. 212. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Continued from page 38.) 

Management of Water. 

Iv a natural river flow within view of the win¬ 
dows of tho house, one of the chief features of 
a beautiful landscape is for ever present without 
cost. There are places in rural districts where a 
little streamlet can have its course so altered 
and expanded by labour and fashioned by art 
as to become a charming artificial lake. Not 
far from where I am writing there is a country 
rectory with an exceedingly pretty miniature 
lake attached to its grounds. Many years ago 
a former proprietor led a little stream away 
from the meadow near, and caused it to wind 
about in a picturesque manner through the mar¬ 
gins of the lawn. Just opposite the windows it 
opens out into a rather broad sheet of water, 
where it ripples and sparkles in the sunlight in a 
delightful manner. Trees of various kinds, in¬ 
cluding those of weeping habit, were planted on 
the banks, their branches drooping down to the 
water in which they are reflected. Openings 
and vistas are left in the trees, and over the lake 
to the country beyond the view extends for 
some distance, making as charming a landscape 
as one would wish for. A rustic bridge and a tree 
and shrub clad island are among the accessories 
which add to the effect. The lawn dips down 
to the water without any formal or sharply 
defined edge, and altogether the outlines of the 
little lake are so easy, graceful, and flowing, as 
to suggest the thought that man has had but 
little hand in the work of placing it there. It is 
not every person, even among those who have 
some taste in such matters, that can be trusted 
to design and carry out the creation of artificial 
water of an ornamental character, so as to make 
it fit in the landscape and be as effective as if it 
grew there and formed a part of the whole, 
without any harsh lines or incongruous features. 

Wherever there is a running stream near, 
something might be done with it, and in a land 
so full of water as our own, more might be 
done to turn, that indispensable fluid to orna¬ 
mental purposes without injury to its utility. 
In my rambles about the fields I often come 
upon a pond just as it came from the hand 
of Nature. I saw one yesterday—it was only a 
little one—with clustering Thorns, and Dog 
Hoses, and old Pollard Elms on the bank, which 
would have delighted the heart of a painter. 
Though all may not be able to improvise a lake, 
or even a pond, with the Weeping Birch, the 
Willow, and the Rhodedendrons clothing its mar¬ 
gin, yet ornamental water in some shape or 
form is within the reach of all. A single tub 
sunk in a corner under the light shade of a 
Weeping Birch, and filled full of water, will 
furnish an interesting home for some of the 
smaller aqnntios. Such a tub full of Callas or 
Ethiopian Lilies will all summer be an object 
of interest, and in winter will require no Bpecial 
care, and this idea might grow to any reasonable 
extent. I have grown aquatics in large flower 
pots with the holes in the bottom puddled up 
with clay after a cork had been inserted, and a 
group of large No. 1 pots on the lawn (sunk 
in the ground in some conspicuous corner) full 
of water plants is calculated to attract the 
attention of the thoughtful person, and would 
be within the means of everybody. If the 
water supply of the place is sufficient a 
shallow pond for Water Lilies may be made, 
a pipe being led into it from the main water 
supply. The shape of the pond may be oval 
or circular, and it may be made of any size 
from 10 feet or 12 feet in diameter up to 30 
feet. The earth excavated may be used for 
creating banks for the fernery or an alpine 
mound. 

The bottom and sides of the Lily pond must 
he puddled with clay, and on the puddle should 
i»e placed a foot at least of i:ood loam and 
manure to plant the roots of the Lilies in. The 
White Lily (Nymphrea alba) is the most beautiful, 
and the flowers are so useful for cutting. Other 
aquatics may be grown in the Lily pond if it is 
large enough, and variety is always charming. 
The pond can be kept up to its full height by 

Digits b, Google 


the pipe which leads into it being turned on 
for a short time each day. In some cases it 
may be possible to extend the aquatic idea by 
permitting the overflow from the pond to descend 
through an artificially-created bog, and which 
will be mainly a question of labour, and can 
be made by instalments. The soil should be 
excavated to a depth of 2 feet or so, and the 
bottom be puddled with clay, and on the clay 
a bed of peat should be laid. A perforated iron 
pipe should run through the bog for the purpose of 
supplying water when necessary. The bog may 
either be in connection with the Lily pond or 
be a separate and independent idea; but there 
are details which will suggest themselves to any 
person of intelligence who thinks the matter 
over. I append a list of 

Aquatio and Bog: Plants. 

The following may be of use to beginners: 
Nympbma alba, N.odorata (white Water Lilies), 
Nuphar lutea (yellow Water Lily), Butomus 
umbellatus (Flowering Rush), Menyanthes trifo- 
liata (Buck Bean), Hottonia palustris (Water 
Violet), Acorus calamus (Sweet Flag), Alisma 
Plantago (Water Plantain), Calla palustris 
(Bog Arum), Calla sethiopica (Ethiopian Lily), 
Aponogeton distachyon (Cape Pond Weed)—; 
this is a lovely little plant with Hawthorn- i 
scented flowers, and may be easily grown in an 
earthenware pan in the open-air, or the green¬ 
house, or in the room,—Caltha palustris (Marsh 
Marigold), Iris Pseudacorus (Water Flag), 
Pontederia cordata (Pickerell Weed), Sagittaria 
sagittifolia plena (Double Arrowhead), Typha 
angustifolia (Long-leavtd Cat's-tail), T. latifolia 
(Cat’s-tail Flag), Orontium aquaticum (Golden 
Club), Stratiotes aloides (Water Soldier), Tul- 
baghia alliacea (Water Onion). Among what 
are termed bog plants are Arundo Donax (Great 
Reed), A&tiibe rivularis (False Goat’s-beard), 
Bambusa Metake (Bamboo), Cypripediumspecta- 
bilis (Lady’s Slipper),— a beautiful Orchidaceous 
plant should occupy the highest and driest part 
of the bog,—Gunnera scabra, Habenaria ciliaris 
(yellow-fringed Orchis),H. nivea (Surrey OrcLis), 
Juncus conglomeratus variegatus (Variegated 
Rush), Lobelia cardinalis, Lysimachia deth¬ 
rones (Loosestrife), Mimulus cardinalis (Monkey 
flower), Mysotis palustris semperflorens (For¬ 
get-me-not), Osmunda regalis (Royal Fern), 
Phormium tenax (New Zealand Flax), Poly¬ 
gonum Sieboldi (Siebold’s Buckwheat), Saxi- 
fraga aquatiea (Water Saxifrage), Sarracenia 
purpurea (Hardy Pitcher plant), Spinea Aruncus, 
S. palmata, S. Ulmaria fl.-pl., S. venusta ; all the 
Spineas or Meadow Sweets are beautiful, also 
Lythrum Salicaria and L. rubrum compactum. 
Besides these named above there are the families 
of Carex (Sedges), Equisetums (Horsetails), 
Epilobiums (Willow Weeds), Eriophorum (Cot¬ 
ton Grass), Iris from Japan and elsewhere, 
Trilliums (Wood Lily), that might be planted 
en masse to create special features if the bog was 
extensive. The Pampas Grass associates well 
with water, and does well on a raised mound in 
the midst of the bog. 

The Hardy Fernery and Alpine 
Garden. 

There is plenty of scope for taste in the 
arrangement of the hardy fernery. The site 
should be a secluded one, sheltered by f-hrubs, 
and if partially shaded the wants of the different 
species can be better provided for than if fully 
exposed. The rockery or alpine garden and the 
fernery may be separate and distinct features, 
and with these may blend the American garden, 
employing the American shrubs to form groups 
and backgrounds for the Fern and alpine 
mounds. Many of our British Ferns, as well as 
the exotic alpines will thrive in borders on the 
natural level, yet their culture is made more in¬ 
teresting when collected together in some 
picturesque arrangement. The surface of the 
ground when flat can be thrown into irregular 
mounds, with winding paths intersecting the 
various groups, and rustic st< ps to form the con¬ 
necting links between the different levels. Logs 
and rough billets of wood, or roots of large 
trees when they can be obtained, may serve to 


give character to the fernery, reserving the 
stones to form the rockery for the choice alpines. 
The summits of the mounds may be appro¬ 
priately clothed with American plants. Where 
there is a good depth of soil Rhododendrons and 
Azaleas will thrive, and both the American and 
Japanese Conifers will beat home. 

Much can be done by judicious planting to 
tone down that bare, bald appearance fer¬ 
neries and rockeries have when nothing but Ferns 
and alpines are grown, and shrub and tree 
growth are quite appropriate in such positions. 
Abies Clandbrassiliana is well suited to crown a 
Fern or alpine mound, and the names of other 
suitable subjects will be given in a list hereafter. 
Most of the designs of rockeries that I have seen 
in books somehow disappoint me. They carry 
in their outlines too much of the impress of the 
professional builder. If it is not possible to 
imitate in some simple way the geological for¬ 
mation of a district, it is better, I think, to cast 
the stones down as if placed there by some 
eruption of Nature than build up an elaborate 
affair such as one frequently comes across in 
suburban gardens. It is a matter of taste, I 
know, and if the plants will grow well, it may, 
perhaps, be immaterial how the work is con¬ 
structed. Some of the more delicate rooted 
alpines require a mixture of rock debris t# grow 
in. Again, some of the Ferns require a dry bank, 
others, such as the Marsh-Fern and the Royal 
Fern, must have moisture; all the Hart’s- 
tongues, for instance, require shade and a moist 
atmosphere, yet there must not be too much 
moisture at the root. In the matter of soil the 
same variation exists. Most of the Ferns and 
many of the alpines will grow in good ordinary 
garden soil, but there are a few for which 
special preparation must be made. In construct¬ 
ing the beds or mounds for both Ferns and 
alpines, it will be best to first excavate the paths 
forming the mounds with the soil thrown out, 
keeping the bad subsoil in the bottom. When 
the work is completed the Tustic arches, if any 
are needed, should be built. Arches roughly 
built of stone, and covered with creepers or Ivy, 
have a telling effect. Arches built with rough 
Oak for creepers also look well. The roots or 
logs of timber should be disposed in as natural 
and pleasing a manner as possible ; and the 
site for any dwarf Conifers or other plants 
should be prepared first of all, before any elabo¬ 
rate fixing of stems or logs takes place ; and in 
the arrangement of the shrubs or plants of large 
growth, they should not be set out on any regu¬ 
lar formal system, but arranged as naturally 
and informally as possible. Sometimes a dwarf 
Conifer, or a Barberry, or a Mountain Ash, may 
grow out of the summit of a mound; at other 
places it may seem to be clinging to the side. 
Again, occasionally a group may be dropped 
down in some suitable position to avoid the 
sameness which too many single specimens 
dotted about would inflict upon us. These and 
many other necessary details, which can only be 
glanced at here, >ill require carefully thinking 
out by the planter. 

LayiDgr out the Alpine Garden. 

If this is formed in connection with the fernery 
it should occupy the sunniest position, as 
shady spots for those alpines which love shade 
can always be improvised by placing a shrub or a 
stone on the sunny side. Ambitious people may 
succeed in obtaining pleasing imitations of al¬ 
pine scenery on a small scale, if they go the 
right way to work, without any stones at all. An 
imitation mountain, with a towering peak, may 
be obtained without difficulty. The peak, of 
course, must be planted with the Snow plant 
(Antennaria tomentosa), a close growing, while 
foliaged plant, having the appearance of snow 
when viewed from a distance. The sides of the 
miniature mountains must be clothed with suit¬ 
able vegetation, and in planting an alpine mound 
there is scope for a good deal of taste and in¬ 
genuity; and such a feature is calculated to 
inspire a good deal of interest without incurring 
much expense. All the various kinds of Ivies 
may be utilised in the rockery or fernery, or their 
immediate neighbourhood, such as the approaches 
to their site. Some of the most ornamental may 






50 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 3l f 1883. 


climb over trunks of trees set upright in the 
ground; others may cover arches or be trained to 
poles, and the tree Ivies may occupy salient 
points anywhere. The Ryracantha, the Cotone- 
aster, and other berry-bearing plants, such as 
Aucubas, bkimmias, and Pernettyas, may fill pro¬ 
minent positions on rockworkor elsewhere ; and 
here beautiful large irregular patches of the 
hardy Heaths will appear growing on the side of 
the banks or wherever suitable positions can be 
found. Having thought of the hardy things 
that require no special preparation beyond good 
soil, the plants that are considered delicate or 
miffy will come on after, and the wants of these 
must be specially studied A good deal of know¬ 
ledge may be gleaned of the soil and treatment 
a plant requires, from its appearance and espe¬ 
cially from its root structure. All plants with 
tine hair-like roots do best in peat; strong, thick- 
rooted plants require a strong, deep loam to 
bring out their true characteristics ; whilst the 
medium-rooted plants should have sandy loam. 
This will probably be considered a somewhat 
rough estimate, but it will oe found in the main 
correct. 

In Planting 

Both the fernery and the alpine garden it will 
be best to group each family by itself, as this 
enables us to give each the right treatment; it 
will, besides, make the collection more inte¬ 
resting. In the course of time some plants will 
spread out into large masses, and there will 
always be a danger of the strong growers de¬ 
stroying the weakly plants unless constant watch¬ 
fulness is exercised. All plants like depth of soil 
— oven the most delicate species, but in the case 
of these pieces of rock or rocky debris should 
be intermixed to secure the porosity required, 
ltoad drift, that is, the sandy deposit which 
accumulates after heavy’ rains by the sides of 
the road, will be suitable for mixing with peat or 
loam or leaf-mould for many plants. It fre¬ 
quently happens that rare delicate little plants 
which refuse to grow under the usual treatment 
will llower in a mixture of earth and charcoal. 
Again, many of the choicer alpines, though they 
are not particular as regards food, want full ex¬ 
posure. The plant that in its native habitat 
grows in the cleft of a rock on some steep moun¬ 
tain side docs not take kindly to the confined 
atmosphere of a place overhung by trees. All 
these and many other details will have to be 
thought out before all the rare choice alpines 
will stay with us; but, though this is so, yet the 
beginner need not be alarmed, as by far the 
greater number of alpines will flourish under 
good ordinary cultivation such as is given by 
people who love their flowers. 

Select Plants for Fernery. 

In making the following short list 1 have given 
here and there a few hints as to their treatment, 
because some like shade and dampness, others 
do best in a well-drained position : Adiantum 
pedatum, Allosorus crispus (Parsley Fern), Asple- 
nium Adiantum nigrum (black Maiden-hair), A. 
fontanum, A. germanicum, A. lanceolatum, A. 
Halleri, A. trichomanes, A. viride, A. Ruta-mu- 
raria (Wall Rue), Athyrium Filix-foemina (Lady 
Fern). A. F.-f. coronatum, A. F.-f. crispum, A. 
F.-f. Elworthi, A. F.-f. Frizellias, A. F.-f. grandi- 
ceps, A. F.-f. plumosum, A. F.-f. multifidum, A. 
F.-f. Victoria*. The Athyriums are deciduous, and 
will thrive well in loain and leaf-mould or loam 
and peat in a partially-shaded position inclined to 
dampness ; Ceterach ofticinarum, Cystopteris 
fragilis, C. f. Dickieana, C. f. montana, C. alpina 
must have a well-drained, stony site, partially 
shaded ; Blechnum Spicant, 13. 8. concinnum, 15. 
8. cristatum, B. 8. imbricatum, B. S. hetero- 
phyllum, low-growing evergreen Ferns, will 
grow in good soil anywhere ; Cyrtomium falca- 
tum, Lastrea Filix-mas (male Fern), L. F.-m 
crispa, L. F.-m. cristata, L. F.-m. furcans, L. 
F.-m. Barnesi, L. F.-m. polydactylum, L. dilatata 
cristata, L. Goldieana, L. intermedia, L. margi- 
nalis, L. Standishi, a most interesting family, of 
strong, vigorous habit, nearly evergreen, not par¬ 
ticular to soil or situation ; Lastrea montana, L. 
thclypteris (Marsh Fern), Osmuuda regalis 
(Royal Fern), O. r. cristata, 0. cinnamomea; 
the Marsh and Royal Ferns delight in moisture 
when growing, the latter succeeds well on the 
banks of a stream or pond. Onoclea sensibilis, 
Platyloma atro-purpurea, P. rot undifolia, Poly¬ 
podium vulgare, P. v. crenatum, P. v. cambricum, 
1\ v. pulcherrimom, P. v. cristatum, P. v. omula- 

Google 


cerum, I\ alpestre, P. a. flexile, P. Dryopteris, P* 
phegopteris, P. calcareum, P. bexagonopterum. 

The Polypodies are low growing, mostly ever¬ 
green, and grow freely on dry, stony banks, or 
decaying wood :—Polystichum acu lea turn, P. n. 
prolifer urn, P. angulare cristatum, P. a. gracile, P. 
a. lineare, P. a proliferuiu, P. a. imbricatum, P. a. 
grandiceps, P. setosum, P. vestitum venustum. 
The Polyst.ichums are u very effective group of 
evergreen Ferns, will do well in a partially shady 
situation, loam and leaf-mould, site to be well 
drained. Pteris aquilina (common Brake), 
8colopendrium vulgare, S. v. bimarginatum 
cordatum, 8. v. contractual, 8. v. crispum, S. v. 
digitatum, 8. v. laceratum, S. v. ramosum majus, 
S. v. subcornutum. 

The Harts-tongues are a numerous family, 
strong loam and leaf-mould suits them well. 
The position should be lightly shaded, and they 
thrive best near water. The rocky banks of a 
river where they catch the moist exhalations which 
arise from the water is where I have found the 
most luxuriant specimens. Strathiopteris ger- 
manica, 8. pennsylvanica, Woodsia hyperborea, 
W. Ilvensis, Woodwardia areolata, W. aspera, 
W. angustifolia. The above list includes many 
of the most beautiful and interesting British 
Ferns, and a few of the best hardy exotics. 

Ornamental plants suitable for the fernery .— 
Arundo conspicua, A. I)onax, Arundinaria 
Faleoneri, Bambusa Metake, Carex japonica 
variegata, Pampas Grass, Phormium tenax, 
Gunnera scabra, Equisetum syl vatic urn, Aralia 
Sieboldi, Chamserops excelsa, 0. humilis, C. 
Fortunei, Farfugium grande. Iris foetid issima 
variegata. E. IIobday. 

(To be continued.) 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


WINTER-FLOWERING GERANIUMS. 

In reference to the remarks on the abovesubject 
in Gardening of March 10 by W. G. Jewitt, 
and in the previous remarks by “C.” and 
“A. B. T., East Anglia,” in Gardening of 
February 3, I may say that I have Geraniums in 
bloom in my greenhouse all the year round, and 
that I have always a sufficient quantity of them 
blooming to make my house look gay all through 
the winter months. I have referred back to the 
remarks by “ A. B. T.” and I agree with him in 
one respect, viz., that it is absolutely necessary 
for them to have all the sun and air possible 
with judicious watering in summer, but then I 
have done ; the other remarks are hard to digest. 
We are told the plants are put in a cool vinery 
where they bloom continuously. I can only say 
I have seen a good number of Geraniums 
wintered in vineries, but I cannot remember 
having seen many blooms on them. 44 A. B. T.” 
must have a very good manure or something 
else to keep up their blooming propensities so 
well. If he will kindly give the readers of 
Gardening a fuller account of his culture, size 
of pots, and the varieties that do so well with 
him, it would I think be of great assistance to 
many, for if they bloom so well in a cool vinery, 
how well they must bloom in a warm green¬ 
house. 

With regard to the remarks of “ C.,” on the 
whole I agree with them, only—and this is the 
main point in my case—I do not grow two seta of 
plants, which he recommends, one of them 
specially prepared for winter blooming. For 
the assistance of any reader who is similarly 
situated to myself, i.e., gets the full sun from 
eight in the morning until sunset, I will give 
my method of culture. I cut down those that 
require it about the month of February, and put 
in what cuttings I want. I do not cut down in 
autumn, as a good many do, if I did a gTeat 
amount of bloom would be sacrificed. I also put 
in a few cuttings at different times during the 
summer; the majority of them are bloomed in 
44-inch to 6-inch pots, and I make up for the 
smallness of pots by’ judicious watering with 
weak guano water. Another thing is I have 
always well-ripened, short-jointed wood. 

My greenhouse, as I said before, gets all the 
sun from eight in the morning until sunset, and 
I never shade my plants even in the hottest days 
of summer, instead, I give all the ventilation 
possible to keep the heat. down. The blooms do 
not last so long as they would do if 1 shaded the 
plants, especially the single varieties, but it so 
thoroughly ripens the wood that it more than 
compensates for that by the increased quantity 


of blooms that come. I give a remark made by 
a gentleman who saw my plants in the summer, 
He said: 44 In the greenhouses I have been iu 
previously I have seen more green leaves than 
flowers, but there are more flowers than green' 
leaves here.” These are the same plaut-s that 
also bloom so well during the winter months, 
which I attribute to the fact of never shading 
and having the wood thoroughly ripened, judi¬ 
cious watering, and not over-potting. 

Over-pot ting causes strong growth, while 
judicious potting makes bloom instead of rant, 
growth, and being watered with weak liquid; 
guano now and then keeps up the strength of 
the plants; aided by a little heat as the cold 
weather comes on to keep a temperature of 50 c 
as near as possible, enables a lot of them to keep 
on blooming all through the winter. By the aid 
of those plants not requiring cutting down, and 
young plants coming on, I have always a lot of 
Geraniums in bloom. In my opinion there h 
far more lost by shading than is gained by 
it, if there is the requisite amount of ventilation 
at the time. I do not say the above will suit 
greenhouses that do not get much sue to ripen 
the wood, but if a greenhouse is so situated that 
it gets a fair amount of sun, then the method I 
mention will be found to answer well and with a 
deal less trouble than having a specially prepared 
lot for winter blooming. Everyone has not the 
convenience to store away the plants that have 
bloomed through the summer to make room for 
the second set of plants. 

The varieties mentioned by “ C.” are very good, 
but there are a few others that should be 
included, viz.; Singles—Charles Smith (best of all 
winter bloomers), dark crimson. I have had 
immense trusses of this in the winter, which were 
fairly dazzling in colour. I have grown it for 
about seven years, and of the many varieties I 
have had it beats them all. It is also a 
good Geranium for window culture. Havelock 
and Sunbeam, scarlets; Ilettie and Zuleika, 
magenta; Mrs. Pearson, rosy crimson; Lucy 
Bosworth, pink ; Mrs. Leavers, deep pink ; and 
St. Leon, crimson. Doubles—Azim, Emile de 
Girardin, M. Gelein Lowagie,and Edouard LeguiD. 
on all of which I have had some geo 1 blooms 
during this winter.—P. Rainford, W igan. 

-Mr. Jewitt may rest assured that some 

kind of special treatment is necessary to induce 
Geraniums to bloom freely in winter. It is not 
reasonable to suppose that a free “blooming plan : 
like the Zonal Geranium can go on flowering all 
the year without any rest. If it is to yield a 
good display in winter the flowers must cer¬ 
tainly be picked off during the summer, so that 
the energies of the plants are concentrated on 
the work they have to perform in winter. Tie 
best plants for the purpose are such as have never 
felt any great strain, and which bloom for the j 
first time in their existence in the winter. 
Either autumn or spring struck cuttings will, if 
grown along freely in the open air in a sunny 
position, make excellent specimens by autumn. 
Pinch them now and then, pick off all budsa$ 
they form, house them by the middle of Septem¬ 
ber, wintering them in a light, airy structure, 
maintaining a dry atmosphere and a tempera¬ 
ture of from 50° to 55°, and you will get plentv 
of bloom in winter.—J. Corn hill. 


A FEW GOOD GREENHOUSE ANNUALS. 

AT this time of the year plants that are readily 
increased from seed come in most useful for 
greenhouse and conservatory decoration, and 
perhaps a brief list of sorts now needing atten¬ 
tion as regards sowing may be acceptable, as 
they grow on rapidly to good-sized plants, and 
fill the spaces that are vacated by hard-wooded 
greenhouse plants when these are placed out of 
doors in the summer. The following are espe¬ 
cially useful:— 

Balsams. — These have of late years 
been greatly improved, the Camellia-flowered 
varieties, when well grown, producing flowers 
almost equal in size to those of the Camellia. 
Sow in pots or pans, pot off when large enough! 
and keep close to the glass. A warm frame is 
the best position for them, as there is more mois¬ 
ture in a frame than in a greenhouse. Repot 
into larger pots as required ; a light, rich soil 
suits these rapid growing plants to perfection 
and plenty of water both at the root and over- i 
head should be given to keep down red spider 
Shut up early, to ensure a brisk growing 

NIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
N 


Digits 


WA-CH 



March 31, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


51 


temperature, and ventilate early in the morning 
to avoid scorching. The above are the main re¬ 
quirements of this useful class of plants. 

Begonias of the tuberous-rooted section are 
now very popular, and although the roots may 
be kept for several years, a fresh supply should 
be added of young plants yearly to keep up the 
stock. 

Browallia elata, blue and white, is an 
excellent plant either for ornament or for 
cutting. Treated as Balsams, they make beau- 
tif ul plants for room or conservatory decoration. 
To get them bushy, they should be pinched two 
or three times, as without this they rush up with 
a single stem, but if stopped after they make 
three pairs of leaves, they branch into nice 
bushy plants, and when covered with flowers, 
they resemble a giant Forget-me-not, and are 
very beautiful, and last a long time if kept well 
supplied with manure water. 

Cockscombs. —The Feathery Cockscomb 
(Celosia pyramidalis) is a very elegant annual, 
and if seed be sown now in heat and the plants 
are grown on in a moist, warm temperature, 
keeping the flowers pinched out until the plants 
attain the desired size, well-grown specimens 
may be produced for autumn flowering. The 
old-fashioned dwarf red or crimson Cockscomb 
is of stiff habit, although so near an ally to the 
preceding. It requires the same kind of treat¬ 
ment. except that it must not be pinched, the 
flrst flower produced being the best. I find it 
Ijest to pot the plants off from seed pans into 
3-inch pots and let them remain in these until 
they show flower; then shift them into 4-iuch or 
5-inch pots, using rich soil, and keeping them 
close to the glass. The dwarfer they are the 
more highly are they valued. 

Cinerarias, if sown in gentle heat, will 
flower early next winter. Grow them in cold 
frames, as they are sure to get infested with 
green fly if placed in heated structures. 

Dahlias of the single kinds now so highly 
prized are readily increased from seed, and if 
sown in heat now and planted out in May will 
flower well in the autumn, or they maybe grown 
on in pots for indoor decoration. They are 
excellent plants for supplying cut flowers. 

Gloxinias. —Both the erect and drooping- 
flowered varieties of Gloxinia are most beautiful 
summer plants, and if sown in heat now and 
grown on in warm frames they make nice 
flowering plants late in the summer. 

Mimuluses, or Monkey flowers, make very 
pretty pot plants, the colours being rich and 
varied. Sow in gentle heat, and keep the soil 
constantly moist, as the least drought is fatal to 
them. Varieties of the common Mu*k may now 
be had with flowers nearly as large an 1 richly- 
coloured as the Mimulus. 

Paris Daisies (Marguerites) are most 
popular and useful pot plants treated a .mnuals. 
If sown early and potted off in 2^-inch pots, and 
shifted into 5-inch pots they make pretty little 
plants, the foliage being silvery, and the large 
Daisy-like flowers rising well above it, look light 
and elegant; the principal colours are various 
shades of white and yellow, both single and 
double 

Petunias, both single and double, striped 
and fringed, are rapid growing plants, the double 
fringed ones making beautiful pot plants, they 
are very brittle, and should have small neat 
stakes put to the main shoots before they come 
iuto flower. 

Primula sinensis, in several varieties, is 
indispensable for conservatories. If sown now, 
and grown on in cool shaded frames, the plants 
come into flower in the dull dark days of autumn, 
and if a little fire-heat is kept on to maintain a 
dry buoyant atmosphere they will flower all the 
winter. 

Rhodanthe maculata, Mignonette, and 
several kinds of trailing plants, such as Mau- 
randya Bar clay an a, Lophosphermum, &c., come 
in useful as pot plants for furnishing plant 
stands, and may be sown thinly in the pots in 
which they are to flower, about half a dozen 
plants are plenty in a 5-inch pot. The Sensitive 
plant is interesting on account of its leaves 
closing at the slightest touch. Thunbergia 
alata, T. alata alba, and T. aurantiaca are 
pretty trailing plants, either for suspending in 
baskets or edging shelves and stages. Keep 
the plants moist, as red spider their greatest 


enemy. Zea japonica variegata(Japanese Maize) 
makes' a very handsome foliaged plant of rapid 
growth, and if sown now comes in well for 
filling spaces vacated by early flowering plants. 

Seafield , Gosport. James Groom. 


Poinsettias. —The following is a good and 
simple way to grow Poinsettias : Start the old 
plants in May, and from these you can take cut¬ 
tings during J une and July. Insert one cutting 
in a 3-inch pot, and as soil use two-thirds loam 
and one of leaf-mould, with a good allowance of 
sand. Then place them in a propagating pit as 
near the glass as possible, and shade them care¬ 
fully for a few days, afterwards gradually ex¬ 
pose them to the full rays of the sun and air; 
repot when needful in 5-inch and 6-inch pots 
using two-thirds loam, one of well decayed 
manure, a good dressing of coarse road sand and 
charcoal, with a litle bone dust. Keep them 
rather close for a few days till the plants have 
become somewhat established, after which gra¬ 
dually harden them off, and pluDge them in a 
cold frame not far from the glass. Give plenty of 
air on all favourable occasions, a good syringing 
after a fine day, and be careful not to let them 
get dry at the roots. About the end of September 
place them in a warm house, and in a few weeks 
they will commence forming their beautiful 
bracts. I have sometimes potted one-year old 



ler is their g: 

Goo 



Poinsettla pulcherr ma. 

plants in 7-inch pots after taking cuttings from 
them, and from these I have cut two or three bracts 
measuring from 18 inches to 22 inches in dia¬ 
meter. Store the old plants anywhere in a 
temperature between 40° and 50°, just giving 
them sufficient water to keep them from shrivel¬ 
ling.—T. B. S. 

9249.— Growing 1 Mignonette.— Sow in 
well-drained pots, filled only about three parts 
full of some really good rich soil; equal parts of 
yellow turfy loatn and leaf-mould is as good as 
anything. Press the lower part of this down 
firmly, in fact, it may be rammed in hard with 
the best results, though we generally do not go 
quite so far as this ; leave a quarter of an inch 
on the top a little looser. Now water well, 
sprinkle a thin layer of fine dry soil on the sur¬ 
face, sow the seed, allowing about a dozen seeds 
to a 5-inch pot, and cover with another sprinkle 
of light soil. The seed should be evenly dis¬ 
tributed over the soil—not all in one place. 
Place the pots in a gentle warmth at this season, 
but when fairly up, a cool house, pit, or cold 
frame is the best place for them, with plenty of 
light and air. Thin out to six or seven plants 
(five or six round the sides and one in the centre 
for a 4^-inch pot), leaving the best plants at 
equal distances. Grow on quietly, keeping close 
to the glass, and evenly moist at the root. Give 
a few doses of soot water or some liquid manure 
when the pots are getting full of roots, and 
when just showing flower top-dress with equal 
parts of loam and rotten manure, filling up the 
space left when sowing. If large individual 
spikes are required pinch out all side shoots.— 
B. C. R. 

9395 — Pelargoniums in pots— There 
should be no difficulty in getting these to grow, 
though it takes time to obtain a really fine 
specimen. Pot the plants in sound, rich, loamy 
soil, water freely while growing, and shift on 
into larger pots as required, stopping the shoots 
when requisite, so as to get a well-shaped bushy 


plant. They Usually do best in a light, sunny 
house, with plenty of air on fine days, but shut 
up rather early in the afternoon, damping down 
with the syringe at the same time, which induces 

free growth. The largo flat specimens 6een 
at exhibitions are usually obtained by letting a 
plant with five or six stems run u p to 3 feet or more 
in height, then bending these round and tying 
them down to a circular trellis or frame fastened 
on to the pot. With careful treatment these will 
produce a shoot and bloom at almost every joint. 

A more naturally grown bush, more or less glo¬ 
bular in outline, is however much preferable in 
every way to such distorted objects.—B. C. R. 

9475.— Potting Palms.— Although Palms 
are plants that may be safely repotted at any time, 
the present is the best time of the year for doing 
so, as growth is becoming more active with in¬ 
creasing solar heat, and the roots consequently 
take quickly to the new soil, and young leaves 
are freely produced and get well matured 
before winter again come3 on. Although by no 
means difficult plants to manage, it is always 
best to have the pots well filled with roots before 
the dark days of winter come on, and, besides, 
in decorations for which Palms are most useful 
in winter when flowering plants are scarce, they 
need to be well established to stand the ordeal 
well. As regards soil a mixture of turf cut from 
an old pasture, and an equal quantity of peat, 
a little leaf-soil and sharp silver sand will grow 
nearly any of the Palm tribe to perfection.— 
James Groom, Seafield, Gosport. 

- In order to secure a nice collection of 

these it will be prudent to purchase plants of 
small size. The house in which they are grown 
should be kept free from frost in the winter. 
Palms should be repotted every year. The 
month of May is the best time for the opera¬ 
tion. The compost should consist of a mixture 
of tough peat and grit or fibrous yellow loam 
and silver sand. Palms enjoy partial shade in 
summer and plenty of water. In the winter 
they should be moderately watered, but the soil 
should never be allowed to become dust dry.— 

A. H. Davis, Carshalton. 

9467.—Solanums.— “ Magdalene ” should 
plant her Solanums out about the end of April. 
The soil should be light and rich, and the situa¬ 
tion sunny. Give plenty of water all the summer, 
and slightly train them out so as to form open 
heads. They should be stopped twice the first 
and last weeks in June by nipping off the points 
of all the shoots. About September take them 
up and pot them. This operation must be per¬ 
formed carefully, and as much soil kept about 
the roots as possible. When potted stake them 
out neatly and shade for ten days, and after that 
keep them in the sunniest part of the greenhonse. 

If these directions are followed the plants 
will bear a mass of berries in November. The 
best sorts are Solanum capsicastrum and Wil¬ 
liams's hybridum compactum. The latter is a 
free grower and bears large berries. — A. H. 
Davis, Carshalton, 

-It would not be by any means safe to turn 

the plants outdoors until the middle of May, as 
late sharp frosts may do much harm, and then 
the place selected should be one sheltered from 
strong winds and fairly warm, so that the bloom 
may set freely and the berries induced to colour. 
Still it is not probable that they will colour much 
in the open air, and to secure this desideratum 
the plants should be lifted not later than the 
first week in October, and be put into good 
sized pots so that the roots may not be reduced 
more than is absolutely necessary. When potted, 
however, the plants should not be at once placed 
in heat, but in the shade in a greenhouse for a 
fortnight to encourage the formation of new 
roots ; and once these are in action, the plants 
may be removed into a gentle heat to promote 
colouring of the berries.—D. 

- When the berries fade, the wood made 

last year should be cut back to within two 
eyes of the base, so as to induce the formation 
of strong shoots. As soon as the young growths 
are formed let the soil dry out, and shake away 
as much of it as possible, repotting in a pot one 
size larger. From June onwards grow in the 
open air in the sunniest place in the garden. 
Give plenty of water, and sprinkle daily in hot 
weather. The best way is to place in the 
autumn in a cool room until the end of the 
year; the change is then not so great as when 
brought direct from the open to a warm room, 
and the berries remain on.—J. C. B. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


52 


9468— Tuberous Begonias. “Roots of 
tuberous Begonias should be potted at once, aB 
the season for growth has arrived, and if they do 
not make rapid top growth they will be making 
roots, and what is of more importance the little 
top growth they do make in cool quarters will 
be stout and strong, and as “ R. F.” is anxious 
to try these plants out-of-doors he had better 
keep them cooi, as any extra excitement in the 
way of iieat to make them produce top growth 
before they are planted out will be rather detri¬ 
mental than otherwise, as they will feel the 
check of planting out far more than plants that 
liave been brought on very gently. A warm 
dwelling-room will be plenty hot enough to 
grow these bulbous plants in, but if a frame is 
available so much the better ; ventilate freely, 
and on fine days take the lights right off, so as 
to keep them hardy. As regards size of pot 
4J-inch ones will grow plants fit for turning out, 
but one of the finest beds of these plants I ever 
saw in the open air was the produce of plants 
that had never been in pots at all, but were 
grown as seedlings in boxes of light sandy soil 
like any of the soft-wooded bedding plants, and 
transferred with good masses of roots to their 
summer quarters, which consisted of a large cir¬ 
cular bed raised in several tiers by means of 
large stones, and here they made splendid spe¬ 
cimens, every plant having hundreds of drooping 
blossoms. In October the bulbs were lifted and 
stored in moderately dry earth in boxes, and 
placed under the stages in greenhouses, and in 
spring when they began to push up fresh .shoots 
they received a little more space by beiDg put 
in shallow boxes and covered with fine sandy 
soil, and treated exactly as other bedding 
plants.— James Groom, Seajield Nwnery, 
Qexport. 

9469. —Hyacinths In pots.— To have Hyacinths 
with leaves of moderate length the pots should, when 
once growth has fairly begun, be kept very near the 
glass. Nothing more is needed to ensure stout, robust 
growth of both leaves and flower stalks.—D. 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORE. 

Extract* from a Garden Diary,—April 2 to 
April 7. 

Propagating Verbenas, Meseinbryanthemums, Lobelias, 
and Ageratums. Planting out Gladioli. Shifting Straw¬ 
berries, the fruits of which are swelling, into a warmer 
house, and moving those which are ripening fruit into a 
cool vinery, In order to improve their flavour. Tying and 
stopping the shoots of Cucumbers. Top-dresaing Straw¬ 
berry beds. Sowing Major Clarke Celery in boxes in 
frames. Preparing old Rhubarb ground for Potatoes. 
Sowing Veitch’8 Self-protecting Broccoli and Autumn 
Giant Cauliflower in frames. Planting Myatt’s Prolific 
Potato, and preparing sets for the main field crop. 
Pricking out Tomatoes from seed pans into boxes for 
planting out-of-doors in June. 

Glasshouses. 

A thorough root examination of all specimen 
Heaths and other hard-wooded plants should 
be made early in this month ; and if there is any 
doubt about their balls of earth being dry in the 
centre, they should be soaked in tubs of soft 
water till every part is moistened. The early- 
flowering Heaths, such as Erica Cavendishi and 
the different varieties of E. ventricosa, must not 
Ibe allowed to suffer from the want of water 
mow when the flowers are formed, otherwise 
many of them will not come to perfection. 
Chorozemas, Eriostemons, and other free-growing 
plants, should be slightly pruned now when they 
have finished blooming, and should receive a 
liberal shift, when they will soon start into free 
^growth again and quickly make large specimens. 

Camellias making their growth must be 
liberally treated with water at the root, and the 
atmosphere around them should be kept moist; 
■during bright weather, too, a shading of some 
kind must be placed over them. A good stock 
of the autumn-blooming Sedum purpureum 
should now be potted and placed in gold frames. 
These will be found very useful for the conser¬ 
vatory duriDg September. Lilies in pots will 
now demand attention. It is a very common 
occurrence to let them remain too long in a 
heated greenhouse so that the shoots get drawn ; 
where this is permitted to occur no treatment 
during the season will remedy the defect, which 
generally ends in the bottom leaves turning 
yellow and falling off before the flowers are 
open. To avoid this the plants should be moved 
to cold frames if possible as soon as they show 
above the soil; here they should he kept with 
their tops close up to the glass; the lights 

Digitizes by GOOgle 


[March 3l # 1883. 


should be drawn completely off during the day— 
unless there is danger of the soil getting satu¬ 
rated by too great a downpour of rain—putting 
them on again at night, but leaving them tilted, j 
so as to allow an abundance of air when there is i 
no likelihood of frost. The frames should be 
placed where they will get all the sun and light 
possible. If frames be not available, instead of 
keeping the plants to get drawn in a house, put 
them under a south wall with a slight framework 
over to protect from frost, laying the pots down 
on their sides when the weather is very wet. 
Where a good selection of Lilies is made they 
are essentially amateurs' plants, as they afford a 
succession of bloom lasting a considerable time, 
and are easily grown, providing a few essentials 
are not lost sight of. To the fact of their not 
dying right out when subjected to unsuitable 
treatment may be attributed their being fre¬ 
quently seen in very poor condition. 

Flowers and plants in rooms. 

A good bunch of Polyanthus, if the flowers 
are well chosen, is a feast of rich colour. Where 
good kinds are grown there will be a variety of 
crimsons, browns, and deep yellows to choose 
from for one bunch, and of rosy reds, pale 
yellows, and whites for another; the kinds to be 
avoided in a bouquet are the dull browns mot tied 
and edged with yellow, that give a spotty look 
without richness. A large brass bowl filled with 
the early-flowering red Rhododendron has an 
imposing effect, and a polished embossed copper 
holding large pieces of Berberis Aquifolium is 
another fine decoration. A pretty table bouquet 
is of Ornithogalum nutans, with palest blue 
Hyacinths and a few Hyacinth leaves. A white 
china basket holds flowers and foliage of 
Omphalodes verna, the growths of whole crowns 
being cut low down—a wasteful-sounding plan, 
but one that may be practised with a few such 
vigorous and rapid growers. In a dark-coloured 
Venetian glass are twigs of Bay in flower and 
fruit from an old tree in a sheltered place, and 
a flower or two of Laurustinus. A large 
sheaf of Polyanthus Narcissus stands in a tall 
glass. The colours pass from the pure white of 
Tazetta papyraceus, through the white and 
yellow of Bazelman major to the fine yellow 
and deep orange of Jaune supreme.—G. J. S. 

Flower Garden. 

Bowing and pricking out annuals — 

The common varieties of annuals may now be 
sown in the open borders. Sweet Peas, Migno¬ 
nette, Virginian Stocks, Bartonia aurea, Candy¬ 
tufts, Clarkias, Larkspurs, Eschscholtzias, Lu¬ 
pines, Nemophilas, Scabious, Silenes, and Sweet 
Sultans, are amongst those that we usually sow' 
in small patches amongst Roses or on vacant 
spots in mixed borders, where most of the varie¬ 
ties not only do good service in filling up blanks, 
but are also invaluable for cuttings. Though 
we sow annuals amongst Roses, it is only be¬ 
cause, from want of space, we have no choice in 
the matter, as we would much prefer the ground 
being kept for the Roses alone, and any who are 
compelled to follow our practice in this respect 
would do well to sow the annuals at long dis¬ 
tances apart, and as far removed from the Roses 
as under the circumstances is possible. It is 
also now time that ornamental Grasses were 
sown. These we find quite indispensable for 
winter decoration, and hitherto have had the 
best success with them when sown where they 
are to grow much in the same way as the flowers 
just named. A still better plan, however, is to 
sow them altogether in some sheltered border, 
arranged, as to distance of drills, according to 
the height to which each variety attains. The 
drills being drawn, as here indicated, fine soil 
should be sprinkled in them, and the seeds 
should be covered with the same material; if 
dry, they should be well watered. The soil drawn 
out of the drills should be left to serve as a pro¬ 
tection to the young seedlings, and by and by, as 
soon as they have been thinned out, it should be 
levelled down with the hand, to serve as a mulch¬ 
ing to the roots. Asters, Stocks, Zinnias, and 
Phlox Drummondi should be pricked off as soon 
as they can be handled, as except for the germi¬ 
nation of the seeds, glass cannot be spared here 
for these classes of plants. We have recourse to 
turf pits and coverings of hurdles or mats, and 
under such conditions they invariably do well. 
They are pricked out in light vegetable soil, half 
light loam and half leaf-soil. About 4 inches in 
thickness we find ample, and as this rests on a 


hard bottom, the plants lift with such an abun¬ 
dance of earth, that they scarcely feel the check 
occasioned by removal. 

Hoses and climbers.— Now is the time 
when Roses are most generally pruned, but most 
of ours have been done six weeks ago. Some that 
we left by way of experiment are in full bud. 
Among these are several plants of Souvenir de la 
Malmaison and Gloire de Dijon, which are now 
quite as vigorous and the buds as fine as in J one, 
though how they will expand it is difficult to say. 
The plants have never lost their leaves, or indeed 
stopped growing the whole of the wintt r; there¬ 
fore, all the pruning we propose doing is to thin 
out the weakly shoots, cutting these quite back 
to the main stems, and shortening here and 
there one or two of the longest, more for the 
sake of neatness than from any benefit likely to I 
accrue to the plants by so doing. Those who ■ 
decide to prune in the ordinary way should los* 
no time in doing so, nor in the cutting back of 
those kinds of climbers that need such attention 
While the walls or trellises are thus bared the 
opportunity should be taken to thoronghk 
cleanse them from red spider and other vermin 
by bringing into play the hose or garden engine. 
This is especially needed where the eaves or 
verandahs so project that rain-storms cannot 
reach them ; hence the attacks of spider and the 
unsatisfactory growth of the plants. 

Fruit. 

Vines. —Assuming that former direction* 
have been followed, the Vines in the latent j 
houses will now be ready for disbudding. If j 
they have been suspended in a horizontal posi 
tion get them tied up to the wires before tb j 
young growths are too far advanced, syring? 
regularly until the bunches become prominent, 
and close with sun-heat at 75°. Attend to dL 
budding and tying down in succession house-' 
and remove all superfluous bunches from fm 
setting kinds as soon as the most compact are ! 
best placed can be selected for the crop; fertilise i 
when ready with pollen from the Black Ham 
burgh, and thin out the berries when the size of I 
peppercorns. When all the bunches have beer 
thinned allow the laterals to extend over vacant 
parts of the trellis before they are again pinche*'. j 
give the inside borders a good supply of wan: 
dilated liquid, and add more fresh, but well 
worked manure where the surface is not weL 
covered. Keep up a circulation of warm aii 
in houses where Grapes are in flow er, and fer 
tilise when the heat has reached the maximum 
on fine days. Maintain a minimum of 65° for 
Hamburghs, and allow 5° more for Muscats 
when the weather is mild and air can be ad¬ 
mitted with the aid of moderate firing; but on 
no account abide by these figures when external 
conditions are unfavourable. Although I do not 
approve of syringing Vines when in flower, some 
Grape growers do, and attribute their success to 
the application of water, which is doubtful, as 
Grapes that would set with the syringe would j 
in all probability, set just as well, if not better, 
without it, provided the roots are in a warm, 
well-drained border, and sufficient atmospheric 
moisture to support the delicate organs is pro¬ 
duced by damping the stems and floors oc 
bright days. When the fermenting material 
has been removed from the inside of the early 
house, and the berries begin to show signs of 
colouring, remove any stoneless berries where 
they can be spared, as their presence always de¬ 
tracts from the appearance of an otherwise 
perfect bunch. Give the borders the final 
watering with water at a temperature of 80°. 
and if necessary add a little more short stable 
manure to keep in moisture and throw cfl 
ammonia when the house is closed for a short 
time every afternoon. When spring planting 
is contemplated, April is the best month iB 
which to turn out growing Vines. These should 
always be planted in internal borders, and the 
compost should be made warm by the sun befort 
it is placed about the tender roots. Settle the 
soil as soon as they are planted by giving a 
little water at a temperature of 80°; shade 
slightly for two or three days, and then give 
plenty of air and keep the house moist._W. C. 

Vegetables. 

Outside Mushroom beds should now be bearind 
good crops. Winds soon dry their surface. iB 
which case they should be watered with luk<3 
warm water through a fine rose. It is importaaj 


March 31, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATE I) 


53 


to allow 1 inch or 2 inch iu depth of straw to be 
on the bed while it is being watered, as in that 
case the water soaks into the bed instead of 
ruuuing away. Late Celery may now be sown 
outside, also Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, and 
curled greens, and, above all, do not forget 
plenty of Parsley. All kinds of Broccoli, 
except Veitch’s Autumn, should be sown later 
on. My first early Potatoes are planted close 
under south walls. The soil is slightly broken, 
the Potatoes planted shallow, and a covering, 
consisting of burnt refuse and sand 3 inches in 
thickness, is placed upon each set. The variety 
planted is the true Myatt’s—undoubtedly the 
best of all early Potatoes if £ s. d. is a con¬ 
sideration. Asparagus may be planted directly 
it begins to shoot. I have a large breadth to 
plant this season. I shall draw widedrills 3 feet 
apart, lay the plants in flat at the bottom, and 
cover them 2 inches deep with sand and burnt 
refuse. As regards Seakale, we are now cutting 
excellent heads from young plants planted last 
season, over the crowns of which we put a couple 
of forkfuls of half-rotted leaves. Just now is a 
capital time to form new beds. I think seedling 

? lanta aro better than cuttings. Vegetable 
larrows and Gherkin Cucumber beds may now 
be formed by taking out a trench 3 feet wide 
and 1 foot deep. Any old material from Sea- 
kale or Rhubarb beds now done with may be 
advantageously used with a little fresh material 
f rom the stables. Mix up altogether, and earth 
up from the sides; place handlights on the top, 
and sow the seeds at once.—R. G. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

Outdoor garden.— Mattei-s in the out¬ 
door department ought now to be in fairly good 
order, if the weekly directions have been steadily 
attended to. The present is a very good time 
for laying down gravel, which is usually about 
the last thing to be done in laying out or reno¬ 
vating a garden, for obvious reasons. The last 
week in this month, or the first week of April 
is also the most suitable time for sowing lawn 
grass seed on ground previously prepared; in¬ 
deed, there are very few lawns that will not be 
greatly benefited by having the surface loosened 
by means of a sharp-toothed rake, being freely 
sprinkled with the finest grass seed, and then a 
sifting of fine light soil added at about the pre¬ 
sent time. Be careful to give in dry weather a 
good supply of water to newly planted trees and 
slurubs. 

Greenhouses. — Most greenhouse plants 
are now fairly in growth, and many should be 
producing a fair show of bloom. Keep Stocks, 
Petunias, Lobelias, Pyrethrums, aud other seed¬ 
lings pricked off constantly into other pots or 
boxes as they become crowded in the seed pans, 
or they soon become very weak, and damping off 
is also liable to occur if allowed to get too 
thick. All these should be kept near the glass ; 
a shelf is the best place, so as to keep them 
sturdy and strong. Maintain also a moist 
genial atmosphere, to induce them to grow freely, 
for if once they come to a standstill they will 
not as a rule make good plants afterwards. 

Gannas are fine stately subjects, and grow 
well in town air. Seeds of these should be sown 
at once, but they require a strong heat of 75° or 
80° to germinate freely : the seeds mnst. also be 
soaked for some hours in water at 120° before 
sowing. 

T*he Oastor-oil plant (Ricinus) is also 
desirable ; seeds of this germinate freely in a 
warm greenhouse, and if potted and grown on 
quickly they make very handsome plants by the 
summer. The Ricinus is useful as well as orna¬ 
mental, for a single plant in a room or shop will 
usually banish all flies from the apartment—a 
great boon to many. R. Gibsoni, with dark 
bronzy foliage, is much superior in appearance, 
though not so rank in growth as the green¬ 
leaved sorts. 

Sow now Asters and Phlox Drummondi in 
any quantity. Both these are splendid town 
plants, and with rich soil will make a grand 
display any where. The dwarf Chrysanthemum 
Aster is much the best for bedding, bnt the 
Victoria is preferable where large and finely- 
formed blooms are desired. Sow these in well- 
drained boxes of light, rich soil -leaf-mould and 
sand is best. The Phlox seems to 
better In a more loamy coi^ rpofrt ^^ 


Cytisue racemosus and Deutzia 
gracilis are two very pretty and desirable 
greenhouse shrubs, now just coming into 
flower. At this stage they delight in a genial 
temperature of 00° or so, and a frequent shower 
from the syringe greatly assists them. These do 
not succeed well in a very smoky locality, but 
in outer suburbs may be done very' well with a 
little care. The grand point with both is to in¬ 
duce a free and healthy growth in spring and 
early summer, and to get this well ripened by 
exposure to sun and air in autumn. 

Repot Camellias, if necessarj', as soon as the 
bloom is over; good fibrous peat, with a little 
loam if the plants are large, is the best stuff for 
them. Myrtles may also now be shifted, they 
must be grown freely and strongly to produce 
any bloom. Auriculas are now in flower, or 
nearly so, and, if they have had ordinary care, 
will be very beautiful. Keep the pips clear of 
green fly, and give a good supply of water. 

Hyacinths that have done blooming in rooms, 
&c., should be planted about 6 inches deep on a 
warm south border, where they will produce 
pretty little spikes every spring for years. This 
is a much better plan than keeping them in pots 
after the first season. B. C. R. 


VEGETABLES. 


NOTES ON ONIONS. 

In recent numbers of Gardening differences 
of opinion on the culture of the Onion are given. 
May I be allowed to make a few remarks on the 
subject. “ G. G\, Eccles,’* recommends horse 
manure, and to be buried lightly; others prefer 
to bury the manure deeply. I quite agree that 
the Onion is a deep-rooting plant, but I do not 
exactly approve of inducing the roots to ramble 
down into the subsoil. The following is my 
favourite plan of preparing ground for and grow¬ 
ing Onions: Dig the ground deeply in autumn, 
and leave it as rough as possible to allow the 
frost to purify it, also to admit the air to a cer¬ 
tain amount, which causes the soil to moulder. 
Then when the time arrives for the beds to be 
prepared, pigeon m inure, or manure from the 
poultry pen, is wheeled on to the ground, and 
a dressing of about 2 inches thick is given ; then 
it is worked in lightly, smoothing the ground 
at the same time ; it is then left for a day to 
allow the surface to dry, so that it can be rolled. 
After it is rolled, draw drills about 1 inch deep 
with the back of a rake, which answers admir¬ 
ably ; the drills are about 7 inches apart. The 
seed is then sown, and before covering a slight 
dusting of soot is distributed all over the bed : 
after that the seed is carefully covered and 
smoothed over with a spade. When the Onions 
are large enough to handle they are thinned out, 
leaving a space of about 3 inches between eacli 
one in the row. One or two sprinklings of nitrate 
of soda are applied during the time the bulbs 
are swelling, which is a great help to them, and 
as for a regular crop and fine bulbs, they are as 
good as could be wished for. The rolling of the 
bed is done with a view to let the roots have a 
firm hold, in addition to check the worms from 
drawing down the young plants. Burying the 
manure lightly is expressly to give thorn a good 
start, while in their infancy, likewise all through 
the growing season the nutritive will wash down 
and feed the roots successfully ; whereas, if the 
manure were buried deeply, the principal part 
of the nutrition would be lost before the roots 
could reach its depth, and it is my belief that 
when the roots have to go down into the subsoil 
for their nourishment, the result is a quantity of 
thick-necked Onions, because they lack nourish¬ 
ment in their early stage when they should be 
forming their bulbs. The sprinkling of soot 
over the bed before the seed is covered is a slight 
protection against the grub. C. E. C. 


Culture of Onions. — If my mode of 
growing Onions is of any use to “W. S. F-,” 
p. 10, he is welcome to it. My bed is 9 yards 
long by 14 yards wide, and after the crop is off 
I dig it over very deeply and spread (1 pecks of 
soot upon it, and then let it remain for about 
three weeks. I then put on 10 hundredweight 
of butchers’ manure, and on the top of this 4 
hundredweight of nightsoil, free from ashes, and 
then strew 60 pounds of salt over the manure, 
and let it remain until March. I now dig over very 
deeply, and what manure is not decayed I bury 


germinate 

gle 


deeply. I then get 1 bundredweight of white 
lime and slake it, and spread it on the bed 
while hot, and dig again. I now tread firmly, 
then rake down level and riddle a quarter of an 
inch of slack (dust coal) on next. 1 make drills 
in the slack and sow the seed (mixed with flour 
or salt to enable me to see that I sow evenly) 
and I then riddle just enough slack to cover 
the seed, and iny bed is complete. Time of 
sowing depends upon the weather. In April and 
May I give a watering with white lime water, 
and wash it down with clean water. The Onion 
grub, I believe, comes through using fresh manure 
late in spring. My Onions have roots over 18 
inches loDg.— Upholsterer. 

Good Lettuce. —We often hear the remark 
“ We have plenty of Lettuces in the garden, but 
not one fit to eat; they are all so tough, and 
many of them are running to seed.” And this 
all arises from the want of a little management 
in the culture. There is no more difficulty in the 
way of growing a Lettuce with a heart than 
there is in growing a Cabbage with a heart; and 
if we take the care with the one that we do with 
the other, the result will be the same in both 
cases. In April prepare a plot on which to sow 
the seed (thinly) by mixing with the soil the 
remains of an old hotbed, or by adding a good’ 
supply of horse manure. When the seedlings are 
large enough to handle, thin them out to an inch 
apart, then prepare the land on which to plant them 
by adding a liberal supply of horse, ashpit, or con¬ 
centrated town manure, and before planting, 
dust the land over with a dry mixture of lime 
and soot to keep the slugs and snails in check. 
In planting let the land be raised to a ridge, and 
plant deeply on the ridge, each plant having a ball 
of earth to the root. Let the plants be fully de¬ 
veloped before planting out, as they make slow 
progress when taken up too soon. Keep the 
Lettuce well earthed up, which will also keep 
weeds down, and give a liberal supply of weak 
liquid manure three times a week, which will 
nourish and give succulence and crispness to the 
salad. The Cos Lettuce is greatly helped to heart 
by being lightly tied round near the top with 
bast, but the Maltese kinds will heart readily 
without tying. We may regulate the size of ti e 
drum-head Lettuce by the distances the plants 
are from each other. In growing for show, I 
should say plant 2 feet apart each way, for homo 
consumption 6 inches to 12 inches apart.— G. C., 
Eccles. 

Sweet or knotted Marjoram (Origa¬ 
num Marjorana).—This is an annual, and a 



Mfild Marjoram (Origanum vulgore). 


native of Portugal. Its seeds may bo sown in 
the open air about the third week in April; but. 
it is better to sow them about the beginning of 
that month in pots or pans under glass in a gentle 
heat. When large enough to handle, the plants 
should be pricked into boxes or seod-pans, from 
which they should be transferred to their places 
in the open air about the second or third week in 
May. They should bo planted in a bed at a 
distance of 6 inches or 8 inches from each other, 
and should he well attended to with water during 
dry weather until they have become fairly estab¬ 
lished. As soon a* the plants are in flower they 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 31 , 1883 . 


should be cut down to nearly the surface of the 
soil, and the portion cut off should be tied up into 
bunches and dried in the shade. Pot Marjoram 
is a perennial plant, and is more hardy than the 
knotted kind. It is easily increased by division 
of the roots. It is used for similar purposes, but 
is less frequently grown than the sweet or knotted 
variety. 

Top-dressing Tomatoes.— Few plants 
cultivated under glass are more prolific than 
Tomatoes, provided they are kept supplied with 
fresh food, and the readiest way of doing this 
is by means of adding rich top-dressings, so as 
to keep the roots constantly active on the sur¬ 
face ; for in the earliest stages of growth 
Tomatoes are more liable to make too much leaf 
and wood growth, but after they begin to swell 
the crop they need plenty of food. Trained so 
as to cover a large surface, evaporation is rapid 
in bright weather, and plenty of liquid manure 
should be applied at alternate waterings. The 
best top-dressing material I have yet tried is 
fowl or pigeort manure mixed with loam, water¬ 
ing with a coarse-rosed pot, so as to wash the 
nutriment down to the roots, and at this time of 
year well-established plants with pots full of 
roots will send up feeding roots quite covering 
the new material in a few days, and the effect is 
magical, producing a dark, healthy look in the 
foliage and a rapid swelling of the fruit. Lack¬ 
ing these manures, a little fresh soil of any kind 
may' be applied, mixed with guano or some of 
the fertilising manures that are sold in a pow¬ 
dered form, and washed in with clear w ater. It 
is of the highest importance to keep the young 
growths carefully stopped as soon as bunches of 
fruit are set, and all superfluous shoots removed, 
as nothing is got by overcrowding. Tomatoes 
are not much subject to insect pests, except a 
little white fly that, when once established on 
them, is difficult to eradicate, the best antidote 
being to keep the plants growing vigorously by 
means of fresh food, both solid and liquid, so 
that the old leaves can be cut away occasionally 
to make room for young healthy foliage.—J. 
Groom, Sea field, Gosjjort. 

Ool©worts.— These, though one of our most 
useful winter vegetables, are not, as a rule, grown 
so much in private gardens as one would expect 
them to be, and they are seldom seen in cottagers’ 
gardens, but our principal market men grow 
them upon a large scale. They are generally 
sold as bunched greens, and very profitable they 
are. Being very hardy, they will withstand the 
severest winters, even when other crops are 
destroyed. The Rosette is the most useful for 
early crops, as it forms nice compact heads 
during the autumn, and keeps good for a long 
time after it becomes closely hearted. The 
hardy green Colewort seldom hearts like the 
Rosette, its leaves being loose and more spreading, 
and somewhat less tender when cooked. Cole- 
wort seeds are often sown too early in spring, 
and in that case the crop comes into use in 
autumn, when there is plenty of late Cabbages 
to cut from. Cabbages for early autumn are 
more profitable, and by growing some hardy sort, 
such as Early Heartwell, one is able to have a 
good supply until late in autumn, when the 
Coleworts should be ready to take their place. 

I make my first sowing in the second week in 
May, and my sowing for the main crop the 
second or third week in June, the produce of 
which I find is in good time for my winter crops 
of both sorts. The ground must be well prepared 
before the seeds are sown, for the result depends 
upon getting strong, healthy plants with which 
to make the plantations. The seeds may be 
sown on beds 4 feet wide with 12 inch alleys 
between them, or drills may be drawn 3 inches 
apart upon a piece of ground firmly raked. After 
sowing some fine soil mixed with a portion of 
lime and wood ashes may be strewn over the 
seeds. These invigorate the young seedlings, 
which when drawn from the beds are furnished 
with a mass of clean healthy roots. If the 
ground is dry give it a good soaking of water 
with a coarse-rosed watering pot the day previous 
to sowing, for if dry the seeds will not germinate 
freely, and if watered after the seed is sown a 
hard crust is formed, and the seedlings seldom 
do so well as when the beds are thoroughly 
moistened before sowing. As soon as the 
seedlings have got into the third or fourth leaf, 
prepare a piece of ground well enriched with 
rotten manure, and upon this prick the young 1 
plants out from to 4 b^|es^part. In 


this way stronger plants are produced than i inch thick over the soil, but this did not appear 
they arc drawn from the seed beds. When in the least to affect the crop of Mushrooms, for 
large enough, plant in rows 12 inches apart and they would push through the ashes in great 
0 inches asunder in the row. Old Strawberry bunches, and in cool weather the finest Mush- 
beds make good ground for Coleworts when rooms I have ever seen were produced by this 
picking is finished; trench them deeply and kind of double crop beds, and in spring as solar 
manure them well before planting. From such heat increased the quantity of Mushrooms would 
ground a fine crop of useful Coleworts may be increase, but the substance would decrease, the 
expected.—W. C. largest and heaviest being those that grew slowly 

Frame Cuoumberd.- For several seasons in co,c * frames with a good covering externally 
I have grown Telegraph Cucumber in a large t0 exclude frost, for in this sort of beds there is 
frame used in winter for storing plants, and have always a certain amount of bottom-heat that 
had sufficient fruit for far .ily use without the lingers until the material is quite decayed 
trouble of a hotbed. I pursued the following ' here no regular Mushroom house exists, the J 
plan : Dug a square hole in the sunniest spot in a ^° vc system is well worth a trial. — James , 
the garden half a yard deep, filled this hole with Groom, Scofield, O'osjfort. 

a mixture of rotten manure, leaf-mould,soot, bone ‘ ‘ I am afraid “ Garhart’s ” idea of growing 

dust, and soil from floor of hen-house, and Mushrooms in Cucumber frames collaterally 
covered it over with the garden soil and the the Cucumber plants is not likely to prove 

frame. In June I obtained two well-grown a success, as the moisture the Cncuml>er plants 
plants in pots, and placed one under each light, require at the roots during summer would be in 
and turned them out at the top end of the frame excess of what the Mushrooms require. Mush- 
on the mixture aforesaid, closed the frame and rooms ma 7 be grown in pits or frames after 
left them to grow in their own way, only opening having been cleared of a crop of Melons or 
the frame to give them water or cut the fruit. J Cucumbers at the end of the summer with the 
think the plan of opening the frame when the 881116 material then in the pits or frames. Take 
sun is on a waste of heat, and consequently a portion 0 f the soil, only leaving 2 or 3 
growth, and may in the case of Cucumbers be inches to cover the manure, and tread the bed 
dispensed with. All that is required is some- down. If very dry, which is often 

thing to cover the glass when the sun is power- case after Melons, give the bed a good 
ful. As for air, I think few frames are con- watering and shut np close for a few days. The 
structed to exclude it.—W. W. spawn may then be placed in the bed, breaking it 

Elcombe Parenip.-Krom many years’ ex- &b ?° t th ? size °? a h u cn ’ s 

perience I can strongly recommend thcElcombe £ , c *. m , 1 ,°, lnche f a P srt 5? ch w ?3" 1D the 
Parsnip; it is not so large or such a weight e * ea 1D 8 a ii down firmly. It will be neces- 
yielder as some others, but its flavour is so mild 8al ? to kee P the /j rame « «P dose and to place d 
that it is acceptable to many of sensitive palate n ] a S ’ * or an ^! material at hand, over the 

and those who cannot venture to partake of any ^ .° exc * n de the light, and more may be 

of the ordinary varieties, as 1 hey are too pungent. a e m case of frost *“ T * 1 •» Cowley, 

Boiled and mashed with an equal quantity of 9445.— Leek bed.—“A Young Gardener” 
Potatoes it makes an acceptable accompaniment for information respecting Leeks. My plan 

to most ordinary viands. Any respectable seeds- 18 sow the seed in March in open seed beds 
man will supply the seed.— Bei g. moderately thick, and as soon as large enough, 

9347.—Failure in Celery.—It appears that dig out some shallow trenches, 2 feet wide and 
“ J. W. A.” has “coddled” his Celery too much, one spit deep; put in some good rotten manure, 
so that it comes up “ stalky.” He has “ given it dig it over, and plant three rows of Leek plants, 
London manure and vegetable refuse, such as making holes with a dibble and dropping the 
green Potato tops, in abundance,” and also plants in full length up to the tips of their 
“watered it with liquid manure, soap-suds, blood leaves, putting just enough soil to cover the 
from the slaughterhouse, Ac.” Now, “ J. W. A.” roots and giving a good soaking of water. They 
could not possibly have anything better in which will grow rapidly, when the soil may be filled in 
to grow Celery than the manures he has named, by degrees, and beautifully blanched stems will 
but they should all be rotted down together be the result. Very good Leeks may be grown 
with equal proportions of horse manure. This on level ground, but I prefer trenches, if long 
combination should be placed at the bottom of blanched stems are required. They are a most 
the trenches before planting the Celery. A useful vegetable for spring when Onions get 
serious cause of Celery running to stalk is scarce.—J. G., Hants. 

earthing up too early. Let the plants grow two 9473. — Blanching Dandelions. — The 
to three months in the trenches before any Boil simplest way to blanch Dandelions is to lift the 
is placed about them ; then bank them np very roots and either plant in soil in a dark cellar or 
gradually. Liquid manure may be poured into in a frame, covering up the latter to keeD the 
the trench.* any time, let the weather be wet light excluded. Also, the plants may be tied up 
or dry, so that it does not touch the plants or like Lettuces, and have flower-pots turned over 
lodge in pools in the trenches Celery likes them to keep them dark, and thus induce 
strong food and plenty of water, but it must not blanching._D. 

become stagnant about the roots, or the soil will - .. Vegetarian ” may very easily blanch 

become cold and.sour, and the plants will nearly the young growth of the Dandeiions by taking 
cease to grow. If “ J. W. A. s soil is very light, large flower-pots or boxes and filling them about 
he might use cow manure with advantage for half full of soil and planting the roots in it 
p anting Ins Celeiy upon and give every plant rather thickly. Place the box or pot in any out 
plenty of room.—G. L., Eccles. of the way place and cover with a sack or" any 

9430.—Mushrooms and Cucumbers, covering to exclude the light, and beautifully 
—The plan of growiDg a crop of Mushrooms in blanched salading will be quickly produced, or if 
the same bed as Cucumbers and Melons may a dark cellar is available the same result may be 
certainly be made a success with but very little obtained by merely placing some soil on the floor 
expense or extra trouble. I have many times and planting the roots in it. One good watering 
had excellent crops by adopting the following t° settle the soil about the roots is sufficient to 
plan, and doubtless “ Gar hart ” will find the host a long time, for if over-watered the confined 
same results follow his experiment, viz.; At this atmosphere induces decay. Chicory is blanched 
time of year, when making up beds for Cucum- ' n exactly the same way, and strong roots will 
bers or Melons, a portion of an exhausted Mush- produce two or three crops of leaves before they 
room bed is spread over the manure before the are worn out.—J. Groom, Oonjiort. 

soil for planting the Cucumbers is put on; or, -I have blanched Dandelions growing wild 

lacking this, a few pieces of Mushroom spawn are when a boy by building round them a wall 
inserted in the manure and left to take their of bricks and putting a board on the top to cover 
chance, the bed being soiled over more or less an ^ keep them in the dark. If “ Vegetarian ” 
deeply, according to the length of time the would try the method used in forcing and 
Cucumbers or Melons may be in bearing, and blanching Rhubarb outside in early spring, I 
frequently I have had good crops of both at the think he would find it suit well. A large 
same time, but the best results follow during the inverted pot with a hole at the top is placed 
next winter and spring, for the spawn will over eac h plant, and heaped over with fresh 

run through the entire mass of material and 8ta ble manure to force the plant into rapid 

continue to produce Mushrooms for a great growth. The result is easily understood.— p. R. 
length of time As a rule, we used the 9476.-Oelerlao.-Sow in heat in February 
frames after the Cucumbers or Melons were or March, prick out the seedlings when 2 inches 
cleared off for Cinerarias, Primulas, &c„ sitnply high 2 inches apart. Plant in a piece of rich I 

putting a covering of coal ashes about half an ground in June 15 inches apart each M ay Give | 


March 31, 1883 .] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


55 



plenty of water and keep the weeds hoed down. 
—Roxburghshire. 


OUTDOOR PT.ANT8. 


FLOWERS OF APRIL. 

How often in childhood have we been reminded 
of the proverbial dampness of the month of 
April by the constant repetition of the old 
adage, “ March winds and April showers bring 
forth May flowers.” We have had the March 
winds and something more in unpleasant forms, 
and most distressing have been their effects 
upon the spring (lowers and leafage, withering 
and blasting those which the warm weather of 
February had so abundantly advanced. Farther, 
it has resulted that the severe check given to 
vegetation has kept many of the March dowers 
over to assist in beautifying the present month, 
whilst the change from 
sharp frosts and biting 
winds do bat serve to 
promote donil re-action, 
and to fill our gardens 
with gaiety and beauty. 

We shall be pleased 
enough to have the April 
showers if they be of the 
true sentimental order 
—soft, warm, and not 
too frequent, and then 
with frequent bursts of 
sunshine, April will, as 
Duke Aranza puts it, 

•• Wear a changeful face 
of cloud and sunshine," 
but will none the less 
be a beautiful month 
both for flowers and for 
humanity. 

There are no more 
attractive April flowers 
than those which for 
a few weeks convert 
our too prosaic hardy 
fruit trees into garlands 
of bloom and colour. No 
flowers do we more ad¬ 
mire, none do we more 
anxiously scan or watch 
the fortunes of. It is a 
sight to gladden the 
eyes of the gods when 
orchard after orchard of 
fruit trees in tens of thou¬ 
sands exhibit literally 
masses of bloom and 
glorious promise for the 
coming autumn. But 
when the dread frosts 
and bitter blasting east 
winds come and kill and 
destroy all this beauty, 
then may angels weep 
over the sad wreck of 
human hopes. The Peach 
and Nectarine on the 
walls. Pear, Plum, and 
Cherry out in the open, 
and towards the end of 
the month the 4pple, 
will all be full of bloom, 
though the Apple, be¬ 


convey the fine form and rioh colours which 
marks the Pansy of the florist, yet they convey 
something of the charms incidental to the 
commoner bedding and garden varieties. Bansies, 
whether so-called, or Violas, give to us in April 
a wealth of bloom and colour—white, blue, 
purple, mauve, and in wondrous mixture far 
beyond description. We have but to sow a pinch 
of seed in July, and there are hundreds of 
strong plants resuming, all of which will bloom 
gaily in the spring. Then Daisies, such very 
irrepressible spring flowers, are represented also, 
and singularly gay are they, not least amongst 
them being the variegated foliaged kinds. We 
must get within the greenhouse to find the 
Cinerarias and the Mignonettes, the pretty 
Chinese Dicentra, with its racemes of red and 
white, heart-shaped flowers, the early Roses, the 
white Deutzias, the herbaceous Calceolarias, the 
yellow-flowered Genistas, and many other plants, 
all making the green¬ 
house and conservatory 
look wondrously gay, 
whilst of forced plants 
in brilliant bloom there 
is legion. After all our 
loves perhaps are most 
with the humble border 
flowers—the Forget-me- 
nots, the Polyanthuses, 
the Auriculas, Aralias, 
Aubrietias, Vellow Alys- 
sum, and the thousand 
and one hardy denizens 
of the Sower garden. For 
the florists' April is, with 
the Auriculas and gold- 
laced Polyanthus, truly 
a matter of joy, for these 
favourites are indeed at 
their best. So, too, do we 
get in Primulas japoni- 
ca, Sieboldi, denticulata, 
abyssinica, and many 
others of the cosinopoli- 
litan Primrose family, 
charming flowers. To 
particularise all plants 
that gladden April with 
their flowers would be to 
fill a volume. The few 
named must stand spon¬ 
sors for all the rest, for 
what between natural 
life and that artificial ac¬ 
tion imparted by forcing 
and heat, we may render 
April, whether within 
our houses or without, 
truly one of the most 
floral months of the 
year. 


Hardy Fuchsias. 

— Amongst the many 
old - fashioned flowers 
that have of late become 
very popular, few are 
more deservin; of gene¬ 
ral culture than hardy 
Fuchsias, of the small 
flowered section of which 
Kiccartoni and gracilis 
are the best known 
examples. I would ad¬ 
vise all who con template 
planting this season to 
get strong young plants at once, those that 
were struck last autumn are the best, for if 
grown on in cool quarters they will now be 
throwing up strong shoots from the base, and if 
carefully hardened off and planted out in May 
they will make flne bushes by the autumn. They 
look well in beds planted about 2 feet apart, as 
they form a solid mass of flowering shoots, and 
single specimens look extremely well on grass. 
The finest plants I ever remember to have seen 
were planted in old hollow tree stumps, cut ipto 
lengths of about 2 feet, and set on the soil, so 
that the roots after filling the soil in the hollow 
stump run through into the soil beneath. When 
well established these Fuchsias make really 
beautiful objects ; cut down annually they send 
up a perfect thicket of shoots that hang over, 
nearly touching the grass, and the strongest 
erect ones rising 4 feet or 5 feet high by the end 
of the season, a model of perfect symmetry that 
staking or tying never excelled, and as regards 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Flowers of April—Tulips, Pansies, Amiculss, Anemones, Ac. 


cause of its lovely rosy- 
tinted blossom, is per¬ 
haps the most charming 
of all. Of fruitless trees that will bloom in great 
beauty are the double-blossomed Cherry and 
Peach, and the rich-ooloured single-flowered 
Almond will help to make our shrubberies gay. 
But shrubs are not lacking bloom also, as may 
be found in many of the second early Rhodo¬ 
dendrons, the scarlet Ribes, some of the Ber- 
beris, hardy shrubs of exceeding beauty ; of 
Camellias, too, flowering finely in the open where 
planted as shrubs. Then, too, there are Daphnes, 
one of the most charming of which is indica; 
not a few Heaths, all very interesting; Lithos- 
permum prostratum, with its rich blue flowers, 
and one of the loveliest of rock plants, and 
many others of the shrubby order, all helping to 
make gardens rich in colour during the interest¬ 
ing month of April. 

But it is after all amongst the hardy border 
flowers, the biennials and herbaceous, and ever¬ 
green perennials where we look for the chief 
elements of floral beauty, aficT>of these, bulbs 

Digitized t;. VjCK ^Im¬ 


moderate dimensions. All, even the old double 
Daffodil, give us capital flowers for cutting. 
We have bad Anemones in bloom all through 
the winter, but April will to all the coronaria or 
garden kinds be the month par excellence for 
bloom. But less showy though not less interest¬ 
ing kinds are the wood variety, Anemone 
nemorosa, both white and pink, and the 
double white kind also. Then there is 
the little grown A. ranunculoides, with its 
pretty yellow blooms, and the lovely blue A. 
apennina, whilst the glorious scarlet A. stellata 
fulgens yet gives colour which other spring 
flowers fail to outvie. The charming Scilla 
family also are April flowers, and in our woods 
the Bluebell waves its azure bells in the evening 
sunshine in abundant profusion, making the 
woody glades, in conjuction with the carpets of 
pale Primroses, nocturnes in blue and sulphur. 

Our old garden favourites, the Pansies, too, 
are figured in the picture, and though failing to 


especially are the gayest of the gay. The 
Tulip is rightly made a prominent flower in our 
illustration, and none are more gorgeous, for 
l what can excel in grand colours masses of 
Kaiser Kroon, Vermilion Brilliant, or Golden 
Prince, and then how easy it is to have these 
and the noble double kinds also by expending 
a few shillings on bulbs in the autumn, and 
planting them in beds and in good soil. 
Hyacinths, too, make fine masses, though 
essentially somewhat stiff of form. They give 
a beautiful perfume, none the less, and should 
be grown in masses of distinct colours on carpets 
of Daisies, Pansies, Forget-me-Nots, and similar 
dwarf flowering plants. During April, too, such 
bulbous plants as Lent Lilies of the Narcissi 
tribe are blooming in wondrous profusion. 
Varied in form materially the Narcissus, how¬ 
ever, gives little variety in colour, hence some 
dozen or so of kinds is enough for any garden of 












GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


56 


[Mabch 31, 1883. 


flowers I do not know of any plant that con¬ 
tinues to flower so continuously through storm 
or drought as these Fuchsias. In addition to 
the above-mentioned there is a larger flowering 
kind called gracilis major ; and the old globosa 
and fulgens, and many of the greenhouse kinds 
are exceedingly effective, especially those with a 
whitecorolla like Madame Cornellissen, but these 
should have a good covering of dry coal ashes 
put over their roots at the commencement of 
winter, as they are not so hardy as the cider 
sorts, but add a very pleasing variety by means 
of contrast. —James Groom, Seajield jiwrtery, 
Gosport. 


CULTURE OF GLADIOLI. 

Preparing the soil.— As the period for the 
planting of these beautiful autumn-flowering 
bulbs i* at hand, and as I have been for many 
years a -cultivator of them, perhaps a few re¬ 
marks on the very important matter of planting 
may be useful to some who are commencing 
their cultivation. Like most other plants, there 
can be little doubt that trenching in the autumn 
is the best method of preparation of the beds, 
and where this has been done no further pre¬ 
paration will be necessary ; but supposing that 
no such prepared beds are ready for the recep¬ 
tion of the bulbs, my experience does not lead 
me to believe that it is absolutely necessary, but 
that they can be successfully grown without it. 
If beds have been well manured for the previous 
occupants, then a small quantity of well decom¬ 
posed hotbed manure will be sufficient, but if 
not, it will be needful to dig in a considerable 
quantity; the danger of its being done now is 
that some of the manure may come in contact 
with the bulbs, and so occasion loss; but this 
may to some extent, with a little extra trouble, 

4 be provided against. 

Planting. —Let us suppose, then, that the 
beds, whether they have been prepared in au¬ 
tumn or spring, are ready; let the rake be run 
lightly over them, and lines marked out where 
the rows are to go. I think that 1 foot is not 
too great a distance to allow for the rows, nor 
should the bulbs be planted nearer to one another 
than 9 inches, and where space is not of much 
rfjonsequence 1 foot may be allowed. There are 
various ways of planting where acres of them 
are grown; they may be ploughed in, or drills 
may be drawn and the bulbs planted at the 
bottom and then covered in. this in the more 
ordinary way of planting; but where time can 
be given to it, I prefer taking out the soil where 
- each bulb is to be planted, making the hole with 
the trowel about 4 incheswide and about 6 inches 
deep. Where there is any danger of the fresh 
manure coming into contact with the bulb, I 
should fill in each hole with good fresh loam, 
placing a little at the bottom and then covering 
in. If the loam is at all stiff, sand and a little 
leaf-mould maybe added to it; each bulb will 
thus be provided with some fresh soil in which to 
make a start. Where this is necessary the hole 
must be a little deeper than 6 inches, as I never 
now allow the bulbs when planted to be nearer 
the surface than G inches; formerly I used to 
plant them not so deep, but a very experienced 
and successful Scotch grower told me that lie 
always planted at that depth, and that he be¬ 
lieved the roots stood better the changes of 
temperature, and were in dry seasons less liable 
£ r to suffer from lack of moisture. When the first 
row of the bed is thus ready it will be easy to 
strange the bulbs for planting, and if it is 
thought desirable to obtain a proper mixture of 
colours the whole bed may be arranged pre¬ 
viously on paper and planted accordingly. 

Before planting the bulbs 5 always take off the 
outer skin, as this enables one to see if the bulb 
is all right, and if there are any black or brownish 
spots to ent them out; moreover, it enables one 
to see where the bulb is going to make its shoots. 
If on examination I find that there are two 
shoots I cut it in two, and where the variety is 
scarce this is a decided gain. I have always 
found that where this is done the new corm 
formed is as large, if not larger, than that pro¬ 
duced by those planted whole. Some growers I 
lme known who cut uptheircorms into as many 
pieces as they see there are eyes in them, but I 
have never done more than ent them in halves. 

I am sure, too, this is helpful in another way. If 
a corm has two good eyes, and one of these is in 
advance in throwing up its shoots than the other 
(as is often the ease), it so absorbs the strength 
of the corm, that either the second bud remains 

Digitized by GOOgle 


dormant-, or else produces ft very slender shoot, 
and consequently a small corm. In planting I 
mark in my book those that are planted whole 
and those that are cut, so that I am enabled 
to compare the result when I lift them, thus: 
Eugene Scribe, three whole, four cut. These 
may seem to be minute and unnecessary details, 
but I have so often found when I wanted infor¬ 
mation that these were the very things that 
people have never thought of writing about, sup¬ 
posing that everybody knew them. When 
planting is completed the holes are completely 
filled in and the bed lightly raked over. I have 
in former years used both sand and charcoal to 
put into the holes wheti planting, but I cannot 
say in looking back that I have found much 
benefit from so doing. My soil is not stiff; were 
it so, I should probably use some; but I believe 
if there is good drainage that the Glat^iolus likes 
moisture, although, like others of its tribe, it is 
impatient of stagnant water about the roots. 

The question is often put, What varieties do 
you recommend ? and I think the answer to this 
must depend a great deal on the purpose for 
which the questioner wants them. There are 
many persons who see fine varieties at an exhibi¬ 
tion, and think that they would like to have 
them in their gardens, but they are perfectly 
alarmed when they hear the price, imagining 
that, like a Rose, they can be multiplied in great 
numbers ; whereas all who grow them know how 
slow the process is. There are some varieties 
which spawn so very sparsely that, though they 
have been in cultivation for a dozen years or 
more, yet are quite as dear as some of those intro¬ 
duced within the last two years. I therefore 
subjoin two lists, one of French, the other of 
English varieties, divided into two sections, the 
first section containing the cheaper varieties, 
some of which are very excellent exhibition 
flowers, the second such as may be depended on 
for exhibition, having the characteristics of good 
show flowers. 

French varieties.— Section 1.—Mar- 
suerette, Jeanne d’Arc, Madame du Vatry, 
Etendard, Colombine, Delicatissima, Enrydice, 
Norma, Phidias, John Bull, Lord Raglan, Charles 
Dickens, Redout6, Belle Gabrielle, Le Dante, 
Roseus Perfectua, Giganteus, Le Phare, Nestor, 
Semiramis, Moli&re, Le Poussin, Meteore, Meyer¬ 
beer, Madame Furtado, Racine, Horace, Robert 
Fortune, Schiller. Section 2.— Shakespeare, 
Madame Desportes, Hesperide, Baroness Bur- 
dett-Coutts, Conquete, Le V6suve, Ovide, 
Pygmalion, Archiduchesse Marie Christine, 
Flamingo, Ondine, Atlas, Leandre, Pasquin, 
Horace Yernet, Matador, Pactole, Psyche, 
Murillo, Jupiter, Africain. 

English" varieties.— Section 1 —Adonis, 
Attractive, Black Knight, Brennus, Countess of 
Pembroke, Erasippus, Hecate, Helenus, Undine, 
Hemus, Indian Chief, Jubilee, Julia Kelway, 
Lady of Lyons, Lcntulus, Liger, Lord Napier, 
Venuleius, Miss Selway, Mrs. Reynolds Hole, 
Nitocris, PJato, Rival, Sibel, Sot hie, Thyrens, 
Traitor. Section 2.—Admiral Willis, Ball of 
Fire, Cymbeline, Dr. Woodman, Dr. Woodford, 
Duchess of Edinburgh, Duke of Connaught, 
Earl Russell, Egyptian King, Electra, James 
Kelway, Lady Aberdare, Lady Bridport, Lord 
Ilchester, Orange Iloven, Mrs. D’Ombrain, 
Pithys, Maximus, Queen Mary, Rev. H. II. 

D Ombrain, Jessica, Rev. J. B. M. Camm, Mr. 
Marshall, Phillis Stuckey, Lady Leigh, Lord 
Beaconsfield, Galopin, Marquis of Exeter, Mrs. 
Dobree, Actieon.—D. O. 


CHRISTMAS ROSES. 

Like “ A. C. H.,” I have also been unusually, 
and beyond expectation, successful in flowering 
the Christmas Rose this last winter. I have 
grown it for eight or nine years on a cold clay 
soil with a northern exposure, but up till this 
year I have only had stunted plants and poor 
scraggy-looking flowers. Last spring, in the 
month of March, and just before the new leaves 
began to make their appearance, I lifted two 
plants and divided them into four. For each 
plant I dug a hole 18 inches deep, and of about 
the same width, and filled it up with a mixture 
of good garden soil, sand, and old farmyard 
manure. During the summer several doses of 
liquid were given from a barrel in connection 
with a vegetable refuse pit. The plants grew 
luxuriantly, and although they did not furnish 
flowers so early as November 20, they gave a 


continuous and plentiful supply of large pure J 
white bloom—extremely useful for cut flowers— i 
from the end of December up till about a week ) 
ago. One circumstance was very noticeable ; I j 
had dug the holes in a row with intervals 
between each—one hole near the north wall, but 
not covered by its shadow at any time, the second 
and third about 5 yards and 10 yards farther 
out respectively, and the fourth in a border 
fully exposed to the sun. Although all tbe 
plants received the very same treatment, and 
were, as nearly as possible, of the same size, the 
growth of each plant and the number of flowers 
on it were in proportion to its nearness to the 
north wall. This was so obvious that I have 
lifted the other three this week and replanted 
them nearer the wall. 

The size of flower in all the plants was very ( 
uniform, for on measuring a couple of dozen. | 
when fully expanded as cut flowers in glasses, I 
found them all about 2$ inches across. A glass 
cap was used occasionally for each clump, but 
I cannot say that it served any other purpose 
than to keep the heavy rains from dashing the 
earth ou to the flowers, or to prevent the birch 
and slugs from nibbling at their edges; I do not 
think that it helped the flowering. The plants 
seem to exhaust the soil sooner or later, ac¬ 
cording to its nature. 

A friend of mine up country, whose place is 
at an elevation of 300 feet above the sea. Las 
grown Christmas Roses very successfully for 
nine or ten years in the rich mould-like soil of 
the whinstone rock, and that without the appli¬ 
cation of any manure further than what might 
fall upon them when manuring tbe Currant 
bushes near which they grew. Last year an«l 
this, however, they have not flowered as usual, 
and they will require to be lifted and divided. 

On a cold clay soil probably four or five years 
will be the limit of successful flowering. 

r. R- 


Anemone flllgrens. — I was pleased to see 
this Anemone noticed in Gardening. How is 
it that this class is so seldom seen ? There is 
also the beautiful Anemone sylvestris puls&tilla, 
and many other varieties, not forgetting japo- 
nica. I believe in many instances the more easy 
a plant is to grow the less it is thought of, and 
such plants are often the best for spring decora¬ 
tion. The last few years there has been such a 
rage for dressed or artificial gardening that our 
woodland subjects are entirely thrown aside. 
There are many estates and pleasure grounds 
surrounded with plantation or dressed shrub¬ 
bery that would look graud if planted near tbe 
walks with Camellias, Azaleas, and Rhododen¬ 
drons, instead of Laurel or other common 
shrubs, leaving breaks for such plants as Ane- 
monies, wild Hyacinths, Lily cf the Valley, and 
many others. In the neighbourhood of London, 
and in some country places, we are continually 
loosing sight of our native flowering plants and 
Ferns. Hawkers of plants will have them to 
sell, therefore a remedy is very easily arrived at. 
About two years ago I was passing by a wood of 
several acres, all the underwood had been cut, 
leaving the timber, and the natural carpet under 
the trees was a mass of flower, consisting of wild 
Anemone, wild Hyacinth, and the common Prim¬ 
rose. Such a sight is not often seen : just fancy 
such a carpet at home. A great many young ladies, 
even if fond of dancing in a woodland glen, 
would think it a desecration to tread on it.— 
Lucky. 

Annual Chrysanthemums —How very 
few, comparatively, are aware of the wonderful 
variety and beauty there are to be found amongst 
these annual Chrysanthemums. These annual 
Chrysanthemums‘have all been derived from 
two wild types, C. coronarium, of the Levant 
and North Africa, and C. carinatum, or tricolor, 
as it is often called, a native of Barbary. The 
showy varieties known as Burrigeanum have 
sprung from C. carinatum. These constitute a 
beautiful class, characterised by compact growth, 
and having crimson, white, and yellow iu the 
flowers in concentrate rings. What are known 
as Dunnet’s varieties are also showy, the flowers 
being large and perfectly double, and either 
pure white or golden yellow. These Chrysan¬ 
themums may be used in a variety of wavs 
and they look well in various positions, and 
never assume the weedy appearance of some 
other annuals. In large masses they look well, 
particularly if grouped in uniform colours, and 
they also have a fine effect in groups in the 




March 31, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


57 


mixed border, but in all cases they should have 
ample space to develop fully. Their culture is 
simple; they should all be treated as half-hardy 
annuals, but C. coronarium is hardier than the 
others and sometimes duririg mild winters 
autumn-sown seedlings will survive and make 
an early display of bloom. The seeds of all the 
varieties may be sown in April or early in May 
in open beds or borders where the plants are to 
(lower, or they may be sown earlier in pans or 
boxes of light, rich earth in a pit or frame, from 
which they can be transplanted after all danger 
of frost is over. Planted singly in rich soil in 
an open and sunny position, they usually begin 
to bloom in the early part of August, and last 
in beauty until cut down by frost. They are 
most invaluable for supplying cut bloom, and 
worth growing for that alone.—Q. 

Edging plants.— I have been trying several 
things for garden and shrubbery edgings and I do 
not find any plants so effective as Cotoneaster 
microphylla. Voung plants put in during April 
abont 1 foot apart, and pegged down, form 
a graceful edging in a few weeks. During 
the summer the longer growths should be 
shortened, and in future years cut in any form to 
suit the taste. It is a pleasing shrub at all 
times, more especially when in flower or fruit. 
Cotoneaster is not so stiff as Box nor so sombre 
as Ivy.—W. 

9412.— Transplanting Snowdrops — 

“M. 8. P.” enquires if it will be injurious to 
Snowdrops to transplant them now. Well, it 
will certainly do them no good, although, being 
most tenacious of life, they will probably survive 
the ordeal. I would advise waiting until the 
foliage tipens off and dies down naturally, then 
transplant at once, for with nearly all bulbs the 
best time to take up and replant is as soon as 
the foliage turns yellow, and the sooner they are 
replanted the better. There is no necessity for 
sorting the bulbs, the best plan being to dig up 
the soil and spread the bulbs evenly, little and 
big together, then return the soil from 1 to 2 
inches thick over the bulbs, and next spring they 
will produce a beautiful crop of bloom. Aconites, 
Daffodils, and other hardy bulbs are satisfactory 
when treated in the same way as Snowdrops, and 
if the garden gets too full, plant the surplus 
bulbs on banks or hedgerows or under spreading 
trees; they will add a fresh beauty to many a 
waste and uninteresting spot with a minimum 
of labour and expense.— James Gkoom. 

9466.— Cutting back Clematises-— I 
think the plant referred to should get several 
good doses of liquid manure and be only slightly 
cut back to give it a chance of flowering as it 
is. It would be a pity to cut short a plant 20 
feet, and to have to grow it all over again. It 
is quite common in many places to see a Clema¬ 
tis, the main stem of which has not been touched 
with ti e knife for years, covering a porch, or 
running along a balcony, and sending down 
branches and festoons of flowers in all direc¬ 
tions. A rich soil and plenty of manure have 
generally a good deal to do with this. I have 
two plants of C. Jackmani which have been 
planted for two yean and trained up the window- 
stanchions. Last year they grew to a height of 
12 feet, and flowered profusely ; but they have 
since died back to 8 feet high. I do not mean 
to prune them, but to treat them well as regards 
feeding them.— P. II. 

-The cutting or pruning of Clematis mast 

be contingent npon the section to_which it be¬ 
longs. If it is one of the Jackmani groupwhich 
blooms from the long shoots of the same year’s 
growth and towards the autumn, then the growth 
should always be cut hard back nearly to the 
ground, as if this is not done, not only will the 
growths become very weak, bnt it will be all at 
the top, and the bottom will be bare. If the 
annual shoots be cut back hard, then those of 
the next season are strong, and cover the wall 
from the bottom to the top with foliage and 
flowers. It would be better to cut back a 
neglected plant at once and cause it to break 
afresh and later, rather than to let it spoil by 
breaking so far from home as 20 feet high. If 
the variety is one of the spring blooming section 
it would be well to sacrifice hope of bloom this 
year by cutting back hard all the long, bare 
shoots, and thus induce the plant to make a fresh 
start.—D. 

9474 .—Plants for seaside.—" P. T.’s” 

enquiry respecting plants suitable for an exposed 
seaside situation in Sussex will probably be met 

Digitized by GOOgle 


by a list of plants that succeed here (Gosport), 
hs we get the violent gales and moist atmosphere 
of the south coast in about the same degree as 
in Sussex ; in fact, it is the wind that is the great 
enemy to gardening ; here, as in sheltered nooks, 
nearly all kinds of plants and shrubs grow freely, 
but in exposed places only a limited number 
grow really well. In the way of shrubs we hare 
all kinds of Euonymuses doing extremely well, 
and they are planted everywhere. Hollies and 
Ivies are also in great favour, Laurustines, Sweet 
Bays, Aucuba, Box, Tamarisk, Berberis Aqni- 
folium, and a few of the hardiest dwarf Conifers 
do well, but in taller-growing trees there is 
hardly any 1 hat equal the evergreen Oak for with¬ 
standing rough gales, as it looks none the worse 
for a buffeting that would entirely destroy the 
foliage of most trees. The Irish Yew also 
stands well. Of flowering plants I find hardy 
Fuchsias of the Riccartoni and gracilis type do 
extremely well, also Myrtles of several kinds, 
and Lilium candidum grows in large clumps in 
nearly all cottage gardens. I believe they like 
the salt sea sand. All the old-fashioned border 
Cloves and Carnations grow well, and attain 
large dimensions; also Pinks, Pasonies, Michael¬ 
mas Daisies, autumn-floweriDg Anemones, hardy 
Ferns, Hydrangeas, Vincas or Periwinkles, 
Daisies, Violets, Primroses, Daffodils, Phloxes, 
Chrysanthemums, and many others grow well, 
but Roses are very short-lived, and many plants 
that succeed in inland stations can only be kept 
alive for a short time, for although many plants 
and trees live here they have a starved, weather¬ 
beaten look, caused by the continual violent 
gales that sweep in from the south-west.—J ames 
Groom, Seajield , Gosport. 

9396.— Fancy Pansies.—I am pleased to 
see that the question of “ Auld Reekie ” as to 
which are the best thirty-six fancy Pansies, has 
brought out several veiy fine selections, but 
these do not near exhaust the list of really fine 
sorts, but it is not my intention to make out a 
list, but to take exception to seme of the re¬ 
marks of a correspond! nt (p. 28), who says that 
“ such a splendid race of Pansies are almost un¬ 
known in England,” and further he calls the 
Pansy “ this favourite Scotch flower.” Now, I 
beg to say that these little beauties are not 
almost unknown herein England, but are grown 
in large quantities in many parts, and have been 
for many years— even before they were grown in 
Scotland, so I cannot see why they should be 
called a Scotch flower. I believe Mr. Wm. Dean, 
of Shipley, Yorkshire, was the first to offer the 
fancy Pansy in the trade, he grew them exten¬ 
sively about twenty-five years ago. I had my 
first lot from him about that time, and have 
grown them ever since, so that although the 
fancy Pansy has found a very congenial home in 
Scotland, I believe it did not originate there, 
and so cannot truly be called a Scotch flower ; 
in fact, I believe it was imported from the 
Continent here, as it was called the Belgian 
Pansy for many years, and the first variety with 
which I was acquainted, named Princess 
Mathilda, was imported from France—so I was 
informed by Mr. Dean.—S. S. Belper. 

- In reply to “ Auld Reekie ” I give the 

following thirty-six names of fancy Pansies, all 
of which have been in prize lots in the South of 
Scotland shows: Agnes Irvine, Alex. Cuthbert- 
son, Cleopatra, Countess of Minto, Countess of 
Home, Colonel Richards, Catherine Angnes, C. 
Brackstone, Danger, F. W. Leeland, George 
Temple, G. Hagg-Gill, Gladiator, John Huisb, 
John Ormiston, John M’Nee, Joan Isabella, J. 
Tait, Lady Salisbury, Lady Falmouth, Lady 
Napier, Miss Temple, Miss Munro, Miss Reeve, 
Miss Brackstone, Miss J. Watt (improved), Mrs. 
G. Ogilive, Mrs. Jamieson, Mrs. Taylor, Prize- 
taker, Sir P. K. Murray, Thomas Darling, W. 
Cuthbertson, Theodore, Yellow Prince, Zulu.— 
Roxburghshire. 

9386. — Manure for Carnations — 

“ J. R.” will find Smyth’s blood and bone ma¬ 
nure one of the best manures for the above. 
When the pots are full of roots a teaspoonful of 
the manure should be sprinkled on the surface 
and a good watering given. When in bloom, an 
occasional watering with manure water, made 
by putting about a tablespoonful to a gallon of 
water, will be found to greatly benefit the 
plants.—W. E. B. 

- “ J. R." might try Clay’s fertiliser for 

his Carnations in pots, but to my mind nothing 
can make up for the loss of the good mechanical 


tffect which well-rotted stable manure has 
upon the soil. If obliged to use artificial ma¬ 
nure, see that the loam for {.otting has plenty 
of fibre in it, and add some rough, flaky leaf- 
mould.—J. K., Hornsey. 

-I have used Clay’s fertiliser wiih much 

success in the culture of Cainatuns. It should 
be used in the proportion of two or thiee jarts 
of the manure to eighty of mould. It should 
not be used as a liquid. It can he used as a top- 
dressing in the proportion of a table pooniul to 
a 5-inch pot.— A. H. Davis, Car limit on. 

9371.- Tropseolum epeoio&um.— “ Plant 
Tropteolum speciosum in a cool, shaded position, 
so that the sun does not shine on it until 
it has made considerable growth.*’ This was 
the advice of a well-known floriculturist to me 
last year. I got a plant, and put it into light 
soil, in a sheltered, shaded position under a 
south fence, kept it always moist, and it grew 
up a wirework fence 4 feet, and then out into 
the light and sun on some bushy sprays I put 
for it, and blossomed finely. It was covered 
with leaves and litter in late autumn, and now I 
see it is sprouting up for this season.— B. W. 


ROBBS. 


PRUNING ROSES ON THE MANETTI STOCK. 
Much has been written about growing Roses on 
the Manetti; some prefer it as a stock to the 
Brier. For pruning Brier Rotes grown as 
standards or half standards, we have certain 
fixed rules laid down which have been pioved 
by experience to be successful. As regards 
pruning Manetti Roses, opinions differ, almost 
every grower appearing to have a system of his 
own. One thing is certain, that it is always 
safe to cut clean away to the base any shoots 
which may cross each other, dead wood, and thin 
w’eakly twigs. From neither of the above is a 
good Rose e^er produced. Home varieties on 
this stock (I am speaking of Hybrid Perpetuals) 
are very vigorous, making shoots in one season 
from 9 feet to 10 feet high; very often these 
shootsdo not bloom, or if they do it is lale in 
the summer; other varieties make shoots frem 
2 feet to 4 feet. The latter may be pruned to 
about 18 inches above the ground. The longer 
shoots may be pruned down to 3 feet, and any 
shoots on the same stool may be cut down to 
2 feet. 

Roses on the Manetti bloom much earlier than 
those on the Brier; therefore they should not 
be finally pruned until about the first week in 
April. If pruned earlier, the young shoots pro¬ 
duced in April are often cut to pieces by the 
frosts and easterly winds which generally prevail 
in the spring. When such is the case, it is 
better to cut back again to a firm plump bud 
which has not been thus injured. If the amateur 
who is growing for exhibition find his Roses too 
early, he should cut back to an eye or two below 
the top shoots, the effect being to delay the 
blooming a week or ten days. One thing it is 
necessary for him always to remember, that the 
lower he prunes his Manetti Roses the longer 
they will be in coming into bloom; it is plain, 
therefore, that a medium course is best. If one 
were to cut a long rod down to 6 inches it 
would probably produce one long rod again, 
which would not bloom in time for the summer 
exhibitions. Should a large quantity of Roses 
for bouquets be required, it is a good plan to 
pull the long rods down to a horizontal position, 
merely cutting off a few inches at the top ; tho 
rod must be fastened down by means of small 
stakes driven into the ground, to which it must 
be tied. This operation should take place early 
in April; in the middle of May it will be found 
that the long rod has broken at every joint; the 
rod should now be raised, and fastened to a 
stout stake. After it has done blooming, it may 
be cut down to within 1 foot of the ground, 
when it will push out several strong shoots, 
which will flower in the autumn, and cause the 
tree to assume the bush form. 

Dwarf or bush Roses on the Manetti must be 
well manured, mulched, and watered, as recom¬ 
mended for standards. They will bear rougher 
treatment than standards, and they are not so 
fickle as to soil, growing and flourishing where 
a Brier Rose would perish; but they should not, 
on that account, be neglected, particularly where 
fine blooms are required. Supply them regularly 
with liquid manure throughout the growing 
season in the same manner as juggested for 




58 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Majich 31, 1883. 


standards, and keep the foliage clean and free 
from grub and aphis by means of a constant use 
ot the syringe. After the first series of blooms 
are exhausted, the plants must be looked over 
and the shoots shortened to a good eye. It will 
Vie found that this process will greatly assist 
them in producing their second display of flowers 
in the autumn, and is far better than leaving 
then to chance. H. T. 


Pegging down Roses.— This system may 
be easily understood. The shoots made in 
summer are pegged down in spring near the sur¬ 
face of the earth, while those that flowered in 
summer are cut clean away. In like manner, 
the pegged down shoots that will flower through¬ 
out the coming season will be cut away next 
pruning time, and the young shoots made this 
y*ar from the central parts of the plant will be 
pegged down in their turn. By this system 
flowers and shoots seem to spring from the leaf- 
covered earth, and the pruning is simplified ; we 
have merely to cut away the old shoots that 
flo wered in the past year and peg down the young 
ones, shortening and thinning these last as each 
variety may require. This gives us a totally new 
set of fresh vigorous flowering shoots every year. 
By the old system we had no such advantage, 
and it was quite common to so badly prune 
Roses, by hacking away at old and new wood 
alike, that they hardly paid for root-room.—R. 

9171.—Pruning Marechal Niel Rose.— 
Tnis Rose so soon gets weak in its growth if left 
alone that the flowers produced get small and 
almost worthless. Large blooms can only be 
obtained from young plants or from very robust 
shoots. To get these latter it is necessary to 
knife hard, indeed, almost ruthlessly, compelling 
the plants to break hard back and drive out 
strong, robust shoots.—D. 

- It is not true that this Rose requires no 

pruning, but it is safe to assert that very few 
kaow how to do so. MariSchal Niel occupies a posi¬ 
tion almost unique in the Rose world, and any 
attempt to subject it to identical treatment 
with Hybrid Ferpetuals will be sure to have 
failure for result. The great point is to secure 
an annual supply of strong, young shoots, which 
alone yield good blooms, and the only way to 
get these is to prune back hard every year. If 
the plant is under glass, say in a cool house, it 
will have finished flowering by the middle of 
J une; there is then time for young rods to form 
if the flowering shoots are cut back to within 
two eyes of the base. In the open air a rather 
different method must be followed. No pruning 
must be done in summer, as the new shoots 
would have no time to ripen, but in March the 
shoots which bore the bloom the preceding year 
should be cut in hard, all weak wood cut away, 
and the strong branches shortened to two-thirds 
of their length.—J. C .,B\jjlect. 

Sweet Brier hedges. —It is not generally 
known how good a plant the Sweet Brier is for 
forming boundary hedges. I do not mean outside 
fences, but such as are used, for instance, where 
the kitchen garden is parted from the pleasure 
ground, or in any similar way. Far better use 
this fragrant shrub than Privet, which robs the 
soil severely and gives nothing in return.—J. 
Corn hill. 


A USEFUL PROPAGATING FRAME. 
The annexed engraving is a sketch or section 
of a simple and easily constructed frame, to be 
heated by an ordinary paraffin lamp. If placed 
in a light position in any cool greenhouse, or 
under a skylight in a shed, where the lamp will 
be protected from wind, it will be found quite 
as effective as a hotbed, and will afford a much 
more steady and controllable heat. As will be 
seen, it consists mainly of an ordinary small 
frame, resting on a flat slate or wooden bed or 
stage, through a hole in the centre of which the 
chimney of the lamp is introduced; the beat 
from this acts directly upon the bottom of a 
shallow pan or tank of water, so that a moist 
atmosphere may be afforded. The apparatus 
may be constructed of almost any size, and, as 
the sketch is drawn to scale, it will do for any 
dimensions. About 3 feet (5 inches in length by 
2 feet (J inches wide, is a very convenient size, 
and an ordinary strongly made kitchen lamp 
will heat a frame of these dimensions very well. 

a A is the light or sash, which should be 
constructed with very large panes, particularly 

Digitized b, GOUgle 


if many seedlings are to be raised ; if not more 
than 2 feet wide it would be better to dispense 
with sash bars, and use only one large sheet of 
glass, or two might be employed, overlapping 
across the middle, as shown, mis a sheet of 
perforated zinc or galvanised iron, fitting the 
frame closely all round, and supported by strips 
or cleats of wood nailed round D D. On this 
perforated bottom is placed about an inch of 
spent Hops or Cocoa-nut fibre, c, upon which 
the pots and boxes of cuttings, Ac., are placed. 
F is the pan of water, which should be kept 
always partially filled ; if the moisture is found 
to rise too much, a sheet of tin may be placed 



chimney; K x, poBts supporting E K. 

over it, or it may go dry for a short time. In 
order to get at this a door should bo arranged in 
the side or back of the frame, or a pipe fixed 
through which it may be filled. The pan rests 
upon two or more bricks, oo. E E is the bed, 
which is best of slate, though stout wood will do. 
This is supported by posts, K K. The lamp, i, 
stands upon the floor, or may be blocked up to 
any required height. Its chimney, J, is pre¬ 
ferably made of metal, but a glass one will do, 
with care. The top should come within an inch 
or 1J inches of the bottom of the evaporating 
pan. I omitted to say that, if of any con¬ 
siderable size, the perforated bottom should be 
supported by one or more longitudinal bearers 
at D D, as well as the side ledges. 13. C. K. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES, 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

9464.—Cheap manure.—Referring to the 
latter part of this query, I would say that a good 
way to utilise manure from tho poultry house is 
to put it into the vegetable refuse pit. This pit 
is built of brick, of a size corresponding to the 
size of the garden, say 4 feet square (inside 
measurement), and 3 feet deep ; the bottom, 
laid with brick, is sunk about 1 foot into the 
ground, and make to slope to one comer, where 
a small opening leads, by means of a drain-tile 
pipe, into a barrel sunk in the ground outside. 
The barrel has an overflow pipe at abont the 
same level as the floor of the pit, connecting it 
with the main drain, and it is covered by a 
hinged lid. The pit and barrel are best situated 
in some out-of-the-way corner, and should be 
enclosed to prevent children from getting access 
to them. During summer and autumn, the re¬ 
fuse of the vegetables and flowers grown in the 
garden is thrown into this pit, and every time 
the poultry house is cleaned the swee.-ings are 
thrown in also. Slops from the house are added 
occasionally. The pit is emptied when the 
garden is dug in the spring, and furnishes an 
excellent manure for vegetables, and the barrel 
gives a supply of liquid, varying in strength, 
and useful for many plants all the year round.— 
P. R. 

9457.— Plants for sunless border.— 

We think the main cause of your failure 
lies in the sour state of the soil, and before 
again planting we would allow it to thoroughly 
sweeten. The better plan will be to let it lie 
all the summer, turning it over often. By the 
autumn it will be in good order for planting. 
The situation will do for many flowering plants, 
such as Primroses, Polyanthuses, Auriculas, 
London Pride, Forget-me-nots, Pansies, Violas, 
Daffodils, Hyacinths, Tulips, Scillas, Lily of the 
Valley, Tiger and Orange Lilies, and even the 
Japan Lily (Lilium speciosum), Violets, Snow- i 


drops, Crocuses, and Triteleia uniflom. With 
these might be mixed a few good hardy Ferns, 
and the back wall could be covered with the 
small leafed variegated Ivy—not the larged foli- 
aged kinds, they rob the soil too much. The best 
time to plant is the end of September, and if 
good strong plants are procured we can guaran¬ 
tee success. All the bulbs may be planted then, 
except the Lilies which would have to be set 
about a month later.—J. C., By fleet. 

9371. — Pricking out Celery. — The 
object in view in pinchiDg the roots of Celery 
plants when pricking them out is to induce the 
formation of fibres, instead of allowing the tap 
roots to continue their growth, as tap-rooted 
plants have a tendency to run to seed pre¬ 
maturely. This pinching, however, is seldom 

f iractised, and is, indeed, unnecessary, especially 
f the following plan be adopted: On a perfectly 
hard surface spread a layer of rotten manure 3 
inches thick, making it moderately firm. Over 
the manure place about an inch of fine soil, and 
in this prick the plants 4 inches apart. Celery 
plants root much better in manure than in soil, 
and the hard surface beneath prevents them 
from forming tap roots. Treated thus they may¬ 
be taken up with balls of matted fibres, and 
transferred to the trenches with the slightest 
possible interruption to their growth.— J. 
Martin. 

9458.- -Tuberous Begonias for bed¬ 
ding. —The very worst thing that can be done 
is to put the tubers in heat; they should start 
naturally, and come along cool until the 
beginning of June, when they will grow with 
the season, instead of standing still, as is often 
the case when they have been coddled all through 
the spring. The best way is to set them out 
in a cold frame at once in light soil in a sunny 
place. Keep them close until they are well in 
growth, and then give plenty of air on fine days, 
leaving the lights off after the first week in May 
all day if the weather is warm. Thus treated 
they will form sturdy, bushy plants, and if 
transferred carefully with a ball of earth to their 
assigned position in the open they will bloom 
grandly. Vie repeat, do not put old tubers in 
heat, this is the main cause of so many failures 
when bedded out, they suffer when the summer 
is variable and cool.—-J. Cornhill. 

9454.— Camellias In tho open air.— 
With the shelter of a grass coping, and screened 
from cold winds,we think you have every chance 
of succeeding even in the climate of Edinburgh. 
The Camellia is very hardy, much more so than 
the Escallonia, which is often killed, and is 
properly a plant for the south. Make the border 
well of fibrous loam and peat in equal parts, 
and plant in the latter part of May, bnt take 
care to get plants which have been grown quite 
cool during the spring. If there is room we 
would try a red and a white, say Imbricata and 
the alba plena.—J. C. B. 

9366.— Scent from flowers — I copied the 
following recipe from a book lent me some 
years ago, but which I never found time to try 
Take a pint of olive oil and steep a quantity of 
flowers or leaves in it for twelve hours; then 
strain these out, and put a further quantity of 
fresh flowers in the oil, and repeat this for two 
or three days, keeping carefully covered all tho 
time. The scented oil must then be washer! in 
spirits of wine, which absorbs the perfume, and 
after standing a certain time for the liquids to 
separate, the oil may be poured away and the 
spirit bottled for use.—J. G., Worsbro. 

9468.— Strawberries dying- — An ex¬ 
ceedingly wet winter must have been the cause 
of the death of so many young Strawberry- 
plants, as the circumstance is very unusual • 
Strawbetiy plants being as a rule so hardy. Per¬ 
haps the soft -is too wet naturally and needs 
draining, or it may happen that it is full of wire- 
worm, but excessive wet producing rot in the 
roots seems to be the most probable operating 
cause. It would be well to get forced plants after 
they have done fruiting and plant them out in 
the spring.—A. D. 

-Are yon sure that the Strawberry plants 

are dead ? They may have only lost their 
foliage and be yet sound in the crowns. If dead, 
they must have become too dry either before or 
after planting. The circumstance is very un¬ 
usual, and will not occur if the roots do not dry 
in transplanting. Plant next time early in 
October.—J. C. B. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



March 31, 1883,] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


59 


9 461.—Potting Azaleas. — Shift them 
just as the young growths push, nob before, 
and use pots one size larger only. Pot firmly, 
using good peat with plenty of silver sand in 
it. Perhaps the one which flowers so poorly 
also needs a shift, but a dressing of Clay’s 
manure would sure to be right. Thrips will not 
be very troublesome in a cool house. As soon 
as the plants have made their growth place 
them in the open air until the latter end of 
September.—J. C. B. 

9475.— Potting Palms. —If growing in a 
cool house shift them about the beginning of 
June, but not to liberally, and not unless the 
pots are full of roots. Palms may be kept for 
years in health in the same pots by giving them 
plenty of water when growing, and some liquid 
manure from time to time. Loam and peat in 
equal parts form a good compost for most 
Palms. Give good drainage, and pot firmly.— 
J. Corn hill. 

9477.— Chicory culture.— Sow in drills 
about the beginning of May; if sown earlier 
i he young plants are apt to run to flower before 
the roots mature. Thin out to 8 inches apart, 
leaving about 9 inches between the rows. The 
best w’ay in your case would be to select an odd 
corner where the plants may remain from year 
to year undisturbed, as Chicory is a perennial 
of the nature of Dandelion, the roots increasing 
in size.— J. C. B. 

9375.— Spent Hops for ^hotbeds — 

Nothing better. Turn them over once, then 
make up the bed, which should be large and 
deep. Almost anything may be put in directly 
the first fierce heat has gone off. Apply linings 
of fresh material when the temperature falls be¬ 
low the necessary point. Hops may be mixed 
with stable manure, but they form an admirably 
sweet and lasting hotbed by themselves.— 
B. C. K. 

9474.—Plants for seaside.—I have 
known the following plants to grow well in a 
garden at Bognor, Sussex, much exposed to the 
sea breezes : Primroses, Daffodils, Wallflowers, 
Stocks, Pinks, Carnations, Poppies of various 
kinds, Evening Primroses, Violets, and Pansies, 
also some kinds of Roses, if at all sheltered. 
Euonymuses are the shrubs that flourish best 
there.— A. E. E. 

9466.—Cutting back Clematises.— 

Cat them down at once to within 18 inches of 
the soil, and another year do so about the middle 
of March. They bloom better thus, and the 
flowers come fine. Give plenty of liquid manure 
when growing, they like plenty of good food and 
water—J. C. B. 


Insects in Vine rode— Weston-super-Mare.— Your 
Vines are attacked by the caterpillars (by no means fully 
grown) of the goat moth (Cossus lignipertla). The moth 
lays her eggs in the creviees of the bark, and the young 
caterpillars gradually work their way into the wood 
Trees, Ac., may be protected from the moth depositing 
her e^gs on them, by coating the steins with a dressing of 
clay and cow manure, or some similar compound, or by 
twi'sting hay bands round them. The epgs are generally 
laid near the ground in June or July. If a tree is attacked 
the holes of the caterpillars may usually be detected by 
the exudation of sap from the branch and by small 
pieces of the gnawed wood, which resembles sawdust, 
sticking to the entrance. The best thing to be done then 
is to pass a sharp-pointed flexible wire up the hole and 
to pierce the caterpillar. It is easy to tell by examining 
the point if the insect has been smashed. If this method 
does not answer, inject parailiu oil with a tine-pointed 
syringe and plug up the hole w ith clay. - G. S. S. 

Thrips.— E. A— Little bright black spots on the 
tuidersides of the leaves. Wash with soft soap and 
Tobacco water. 

Agricola .—See last week's GARDENING. - Subscriber 

and H. Taylor .—Kindly repeat your queries.-Rim- 

b led on .—That would protect the plants from rain. In 
case of severe weather a piece of canvas could be 
fctretched along the back and front. Millington A Co., 

43, Commercial Road, London, E.- A Pant)! —We 

could only insert your communication as an advertise¬ 
ment. 

Names of plants-./. II. A.—l, Erica herbacea 

carnea ; 2, too small to name ; 3, Anemone Hepatica.- 

X. A'.—1, Saxifrage cymbalaria; 2, S. ligulata; 3, Au- 

brietia purpurea.-- Maynooth. Double pink Hepatica. 

— R. U. —l, Fittonia Pearcei; 2, Peperomia arifolia.- 

J. r. — Daphne M« zereum album (white Mezerecn) 

- E. 8. K. —1, Trichopilia eauvis; 2, too withered to 

name.- Y. O. S., Ashtead .—Agathcca coeleatis.—— J. 

Horner .—Anemone fulgens, fl.-pl. (hardy).- T. Htys.— 

l'lease send again.- J B.— Send better specimens.- 

J. Coot.—Imantophyllum minlatum.- Fury .— l, Den- 

drobitm nubile; 2, Zygopetalum Macknyi; 3, too small 

to name ; 4, species of Aloe.- J Hoot on. —1, Aspldium 

aeuleatoin ; 2. Polypodium vulgare ; 3, Pteris cambri- 
cum longifolia ; 4, Onychium japonicum ; 5, Selaginella 

Mertemi; fl, Pteris semflata.- Amateur.- 1, not in a 

condition to name; 2, Aspldium aculeatum; 3 and fi, 
varieties of Kcolopendrium vulgare; 4, Aapleuium pra- 
moraum.- S. J. L.— Dennst»dtia apiifolia. 

Digitized by GOOgle 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents.— All communica¬ 
tions for insertion should be clearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. 
Letters relating to business to the. Publisher. The name 
and address of the sender is required, in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. A movers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity eg 
Gardening going to press a consider able time bejore the 
day qf publication , it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

9523.—Geraniums not blooming’.—My Geraniums 
last year made profuse foliage but very little flower. 
When I took them up I found long roots close to the 
surface. What should I do to get good heads of bloom? 
The soil is good, situation sunny and open all day. I 
have been advised to put them in the ground in pots. 
What sized pots should they be, how deep, and how far 
apart? I may say that 1 watered them with hose during 
the hot days of summer.—H itite. 

6624.— Gentians acaulls.—I am anxious to grow 
plants of Gentinna ucaulis successfully, and also to raise 
more from seed. I have several times purchased seed 
from first-class firms, but failed to make it germinate. 
Will any reader kindly tell me how to succeed ?—F. C. 

9525. —Orange culture In windows.—Will some 
reader be kind enough to give information concerning 
growing the pips of Oranges in a sitting-room. I have 
been told they take a year to germinate, and then do not 
bloom without bciDg grafted.— Lover of Flowers. 

9526. — Chrysanthemums. — What are the best 
varieties of Chrysanthemums for outdoor culture, aspect 
south and west? What early flowering ones will also do 
in tile garden, and the best time for a beginner to pro¬ 
cure rooted cuttings?—G hielnotb. 

9527. —Plants for small bed.—I have an octagon¬ 
shaped bed, 6 feet across, with small fountain In centre, 
partially shaded by fruit trees. Will some render give 
hints as to the best kinds of plants to grow on it, such as 
Ferns, Mosses, alpine plants, Ac.— Bar Frame. 

9528. —Pruning Holly hedges.—When is the best 
time for pruning a Holly hedge ? I have one 12 feet high 
and bare at the bottom Would it be advisable to reduce 
the hedge now to 0 feet? I do not want to cut it right 
down.—11. M. 3. 

9529. —Hyacinths after blooming —Would any 
reader kindly inform me what to do with Hyacinths 
after they have done blooming ? They have been grown 
in glasses.—A n Anxious One. 

95 ;0.—Indian Pinks —Will these look well as a 
bordering for a round bed containing Geraniums and 
yellow Calceolarias ? and how far apart should they be 
planted ? Hitite. 

9531. —Phlox Drummondi. —Will someone tell me 
the best way to grow I’hlox Drummondi oculata; how 
far should the young seedlings be planted apart, and do 
they continue in flower a long time (—Silver Stork. 

9532. —Herbaceous plants for show.—Wanted 
the names of a dozen of the best and most distinct her¬ 
baceous plants to supply cut blooms for show early in 
August 

9533. —Myrtles in rooms.—I have a Afjrtlc which 
I am desirous of protecting from the dust of a room. Will 
it thrive under a glass shade provided with a ventilator 
at the top?—M yrtle. 

9534. —Superphosphate and guano.— 1 should 
like to know how much superphosphate should be put to 
a gallon of water for greenhouse plants, and how much 
guano, and which is best?—it. R. 

9335.—Single Dahlias.—Will seedling single Dahlias 
just up flower this year, and how should I treat them?— 
C. It. M. 

9536. —Daphnes —I have a small bed of Daphnes. 
The plants look very sickly. How should I treat them, 
and how can I increase them ?—C. R. M. 

9537. —Seedlincr C«,rn itions.—I have some seed¬ 
ling Carnations. How should I treat them to flower 
out-of-doors tills 3 ear?—C. R. M 

1538 —Double Pyrethrums.—I should be obliged 
for any information on raising double Pyrethrums from 
seed.—SUBSCRIBER. 

9539. —Anthracite coal.—From what pits or col¬ 
lieries is tills obtained near Swansea? It is highly spoken 
of for the purpose of greenhouse heating.—J. H. 

9540. —Indian Corn.—Can any reader give me infor¬ 
mation as to the best way to grow Indian Com (Maize) 
In the garden, time to sow, Ac., not for ornament ?—J. E. 

9541. —Begonias for exhibition.—Will any reader 
kindly favour mo with the names of half-a-dozen of the 
very best tuberous-rooted Begonias for exhibition ? —W. C. 

9542. —Manure for Rose trees. - What kind of 
manure is best for Rose trees?—SUBSCRIBER. 


Fixing hot-water pipes.— I was sur¬ 
prised to learn that India-rubber rings have in 
some instances proved a failure. I always 
understood that in galvanising the material it 
was subjected to such intense heat that even 
water in a boiling state could not affect it. 
Possibly the material is not always of the best; 
hence the cause of decay. We have had the 
same rings in use for ten years, and they show 
no signs of decay. I agree with “ B. C. K.” as 
to the difficulty of fixing the 2-inch joints. The 
rings seem to be made too large for this size 
of pipe, but as to the 3-inch and 4-inch, with us 
they go together like one o’clock—not the least 
trouble. Perhaps the rings vary a little in size. 


The pipes certainly do; at least, the sockets are 
not uniform, probably owing to the fact that 
some manufacturers cast them thicker than 
others. In any case the rings should be bought 
from the same firm as tlie piping; there is then 
a greater chance of getting them to correspond. 
I have always recommended the rings, as so 
little 2-inch pipe is used, and the few joints 
of this size can always be stopped. We have 
more than once put together 200 feet of 4-inch 
pipe in an hour.—J. C., By fleet. 


POULTRY. 


BEARING EARLY CHICKENS. 

I have been very successful so far this year 
with my early broods, which are Brahma- 
Dorkings. On Jauuarj r 2, I placed nine eggs 
each under two hens, and obtained fourteen 
strong chicks, the whole of which I $:ave to one 
hen to look after, and at the present time I have 
twelve of them alive, strong and well. The two 
that died did so during the first week, beingpro- 
bably weakly from the commencement, as I 
could find nq traces of disease. I account for 
my success, first, from the fact of not placing 
too many eggs under each hen, so that they are 
well covered during the long, cold nights ; and, 
secondly, because they were well, and, what is of 
more importance, regularly fed from the time of 
hatching. They are always fed as soon as it is 
light in the morning by my gardener with good 
warm barley meal and milk, and during the day 
at intervals of about two hours either with small 
wheat or scalded groats. This latter I consider 
first rate for chickens, and if a hundredweight 
be ordered at a time from the grocer it does 
not come dear. I pay 17s. per hundredweight. 
During the first few weeks I always give them a 
feed by candle light about 10 o'clock at night. 
This is a good plan as the interval during the 
winter nights is too long for their stomachs to 
remain empty. I reckon on obtaining from this 
brood half a dozen good pullets, which will com¬ 
mence to lay in September, if not earlier, and 
continue to do so throughout the winter. I may 
have been put to a deal of trouble and incon¬ 
venience to obtain these birds, but I shall con¬ 
sider myself amply repaid when I am gathering 
up eggs daily throughout next winter, while my 
neighbours, who did not think of setting hens 
until spring had far advanced, will not be getting 
one. In order to obtain fertile eggs during the 
cold season not many hens should be allowed to 
one cock—say three or four. I have a shed open 
in front only about 12 feet by 6 feet; under this 
up in one corner I placed my coop, which is 
about 3 feet square, with wooden bars one side 
only. If the wind blew straight into the shed I 
placed it back outwards, and always put a sack 
or two on the top and half way down the front 
at night. As I could not move the coop to fresh 
ground every day, I strewed fine dry earth and 
sawdust mixed over the ground inside the shed, 
which I swept up and renewed two or three 
times a week. The shed is close to my lawn, 
and is used as well for tools and a few 
garden odds and ends, but by carefully 
packing them away there was plenty of room 
left for the chickens to run about. Of course 
they are now too big to be let run in the 
garden, but their place is taken by another 
brood batched about a month later, which I am 
treating likewise. The youngsters on fine days 
can be seen all over the garden many yards from 
the coop, but, of course, do not pick up much 
at this time of the year in the shape of insects 
or grubs, but I make up for that by giving them 
three or four times a week a plate of boiled bul¬ 
lock's liver chopped fine and mixed up with 
scraps from the table. I am a great advocate 
for giving milk to chickens to drink, w'armed in 
cold weather, but on no account must it be 
allowed to remain until sour, as it will for cer¬ 
tain upset the digestive organs, which must be 
kept in proper working order, so that the grow¬ 
ing bird may consume as much nourishing food 
as possible, and pass the same rapidly into its 
system. To aid this, I sometimes (say every ten 
days) mix a tablespoonful of castor oil in the 
soft food, but this should not be done where 
there exists the slightest signs of diarrhoea. I 
hear a great deal about pure Brahmas and pure 
Dorkings, but I doubt very much if either of 
them make such good birds as the two breeds 
crossed, but I suppose I am not what is termed 
a true fancier of poultry. ,| fi ; X. Y. Z. 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


60 


Hens eating eggs.— J. S.— You need not 
be alarmed about pullets eating eggs laid with¬ 
out shells, for they were in all probability broken 
before they commenced on them. However, it 
may create in them an appetite for this vice, so 
it will be advisable to go in for prevention 
rather than cure. In the first place, you are 
overcrowding your run of 8 feet square by keep¬ 
ing six birds in it; four is quite enough. Then, 
again, you do not seem to have provided any 
egg-shell forming material. Procure a bushel 
or two of old mortar and place in a corner of 
the run. Also throw them any egg-shells used 
in the house, which should be first broken up 
well. Some people have the idea that this 
teaches them to eat the shells of whole eggs, 
but we are certain it does not, provided they be 
broken into small pieces. Spratt's poultry food 
contains a large proportion of crushed oyster 
shell, which is unequalled as an egg forming 
material.— Andalusian. 

Useful fowls. — W. W.C. —We are surprised 
you did not find light Ilrahmas satisfactory as 
regards table birds, especially as you killed them 
at the age of five months, but we are inclined to 
think you must refer to cockerels, which, if 
allowed to run with hens, no matter what breed 
they are, will always be tough even at that age. 
However, if you desire a change of variety, and 
that a cross-bred one, good both for laying and as 
table fowl, we would recommend you to procure 
four or five dark Brahma hen 1 ’, and run a Malay 
cock with them, the whole to be of good size and 
moderately well bred. This cross is coe much 
practised by farmers who take an interest in 
their poultry, but is equally applicable to those 
who keep their birds in a suburban garden. But 
you must never expect to raise such good table 
fowl as if they were enjoying full liberty, and if 
we were in your position we should give up all 
idea of such, and only keep a variety of well- 
known laying qualities, such as the Minorca or 
Leghorn.— Andalusian. 

Small run — J. L. —Three fowls might be 
kept in the house and run described, but every 
attention to sanitary matters m ust be paid ; renew 
the gravel in the run once or twice a year. You 
will also do well to raise the run at least 6 inches 
above the surrounding ground. This is easily 
done by boarding up the run to the height of 
1 foot from the ground. The gravel should be 
as loose as possible, just the opposite to what is 
required to make a garden path, so that it can 
be well raked and turned over occasionally. We 
doubt, however, if you will be enabled to keep 
any birds more than one year, and think you 
will do best by buying fresh pullets every year, 
even if you lose money by selling the old birds. 
Be sure in feeding not to allow any food to remain 
in the run untouched, let them have as much as 
they will cat eagerly and no more. This is the 
great secret with fowls in confinement.— Anda¬ 
lusian. 

Poultry losing feathers.— T. B. B .— 

From your description we should say the birds 
are overfed on too heating a diet and without 
sufficient exercise. It is very doubtful whether 
you will get them to grow again until next 
moulting season, but you can pave the way, as 
it were, by seeing to the diet of the birds, and 
occasionally washing the bare parts in warm 
water and afterwards anointing with petroleum 
ointment. Is your supply of green meat suffi¬ 
cient and regular 1 We would recommend you 
also to at once give a slight purge, consisting 
of one grain of calomel per bird every other 
day fora week.— Andalusian. 

Thin shells. — Country Paraon'sWife .— Pul¬ 
lets very often, when first commencing to lay, 
do so without shells to the eggs, and often 
deposit them on the ground instead of in the 
regular laying places. We should recommend 
you to procure some old mortar, surely you can 
do so for the expense of carting, as we are in 
doubt whether so much new lime will not, in the 
long run, prove injurious to your birds. Pounded 
oyster shells are very good, also common snail 
shells. Spratt's poultry food contains a quan¬ 
tity of the former, which renders it very valuable 
for poultry in confinement.— Andalusian. 

AeGel fowls.— J. PuUford. —In a run 10 
feet by 20 feet you can keep ten or a dozen birds 
in health, provided they are kept clean. The 
portion covered in will prove a great boon to 
them, especially in wet or windy weather. We 
tnust confess our ignorance of the points of Aseel 

Digitized bv Google 


fowls, although we have heard of them. Perhaps 
some reader of Gardening may possess a 
knowledge of this breed. Why are you so much 
in favour of them ? With your good accommo¬ 
dation we would recommend some variety of 
well-known good qualities, such as the Houdan 
or Brahma.— Andalusian. 

Incubatoiv.—I should be obliged for any information 
about incubators. Are they usually considered better 
than ihe hen mother? I know nothing about them, and 
ns I am thinking of getting one would be glad of ary 
bints.—F. C. 


BIEDa 

Birds for aviary.— In answer to “ Avis ’* 
I beg to say that his canaries will do fairly in 
the room he names, but I should keep the chaf¬ 
finch in a cage by himself, as they are sometimes 
spiteful and destroy the eggs, and kill the young 
birds. I should not keep more than five or six 
pairs in the aviary, as they breed better when 
when they have plenty of room. I have an 
aviary 9 feet square and 8 feet high, in which I 
keep goldfinches, canaries, linnets, and red poles. 
If “ Avis ” intends his canaries to breed in the 
aviary he had better remove any other birds 
which he may keep. I always remove my 
canaries when breeding time comes round, and 
place them in cages by themselves, which I think 
is the best plan. “Avis” might keep a pair of 
Java sparrows, a couple of goldfinches, and one 
or two siskins with his canaries. Siskins will 
breed in confinement if a tree be provided for 
them to nest in.—A. H. Davis, Carthalton. 

-Canariesasa rule do not breed in an aviary 

with other birds for many reasons. The others 
will eat up the soft food the canaries require 
while rearing their young. They will also be very 
inquisitive to know what is going on in the 
canaries’ nest, which will disturb the hen and 
prevent her from feeding her young. The best 
sort of birds for the aviary would be canaries ; 
for breeding purposes have three hens and one 
cock.—A mateur. 

Canary not singing.— I have a canary 
which used to sing continually till within this 
last twelve months ; now it does not even attempt 
it, although we have put another close by it to 
entice it to sing; and it keeps losing its feathers, 
and it seems also as if it had got something in 
its throat. It is fed chiefly on what is called 
canary seed and about one-third of hemp seed, 
a bit of fresh meat occasionally, a bit of 
egg about once a fortnight, and a small lump 
of sugar occasionally. I have noticed it flutter 
as if it wanted a bath. Should it have water 
baths or sand baths ? Any information will be 
gratefully received—J. Game. 

-I should be glad if any reader would 

tell me why two canaries, one an old and the 
other a young bird and excellent songsters, have 
never uttered a single note since their last 
moulting. They seem in perfect health and 
plumage, and are quite lively, but utter no 
sound beyond a chirp.— M. S. M. 

Birds in greenhouses.—I wish to keep a Non¬ 
pareil and Virginian nightingale in a cool greenhouse 
which is never watered in winter more than three times 
a week, therefore not damp. The birds come from an 
outdoor aviary. Will they thrive under these conditions? 
—Novice. 

Breeding canaries.—Will someone who has had 
experience in this line tell me whether it is advisable to 
put up two hens with one cock, as I have been advised to 
do, and what is the best kind of food to give them ?— 
Dicky. 

Canaries.—Will someone kindly tell me the best 
bred canaries to insure a sweet songster, and where in 
London to procure them ?—G. M. 


BEES. 

ADVANCED BEE-KEEPING. 
Bee-keeping as a scientific and practical pur¬ 
suit has made great progress during the past 
few years ; bee-keepers’ associations have been 
formed in many parts of the country, and the 
knowledge of improved bee-keeping has been 
spread by these associations by means of bee and 
honey shows, together with lectures and practi¬ 
cal demonstrations. Cottagers and others are 
thus being taught a more intelligent and pro¬ 
fitable way of managing their bees than has 
hitherto been practised. One great acquisition 
in modern bee-keeping is 

Oomb foundation, for use In movable 
C^mh hives. It consists of thin sheets of wax 
‘embossed to the shape of the base of the cells; 
a sheet is fixed in a frame, and it supplies all 


[Masch 31, 1883. 


the wax needed to form the comb, the beojl 
often working it out in a single night into i9 
perfect sheet of comb ; whereas, for the bees tin 
secrete the wax in the usual way, comb building 
would take a very much longer time, and as it is 
supposed that it takes 20 pounds of hor.ey to 
produce one pound of wax, it will be seen that 
to use comb foundation is a very great advan¬ 
tage to the bee-keeper in the honey gathering 
season. By giving the bees foundation impressed 
with worker or drone cells, all worker comb or 
drone comb cen be insured ; and if fixed in the 
frames with due precaution, they are quickly 
converted into combs of perfect flatness. Strip 
of comb foundation are also used as guides, to 
insure combs being built in the centre of tbs 
frames ; for frame hives lose their advantages 
if the combs arc built in aD irregular manner. 
Strips of comb foundation one inch or 2 inches 
wide are therefore fixed to the top bar by gltis 
or melted wax, or inserted in a saw scarf sawa 
in the top bar. 

Sectional boxee are again a most capital 
institution, by which pure comb honey is pro¬ 
cured. They are small frames, made to hold, 
when filled, a pound of honey ; they are plan ! 
in racks upon frame and straw hives, and ia 
piles in the body of the frame hive ; they are 
provided with guide comb to insure the building 
in the centre of the section, and to prevent ill 
comb of one section intruding upon the nest, 
separators of wood, zinc, or glass are placed 
between each section, which keeps the combs J 
regular thicknesses and with perfectly flat faces. 
As the boxes are filled they are removed, ati 
empty ones take their places. There is some, 
times a little difficulty in getting the bees to 
take to the section boxes placed upon hives. To 
overcome this the sections are placed in the body 
of the hive, where the bees very readily com¬ 
mence to work in them, they' are then replace! 
on the top of the hive, when the bees willingly 
complete what they commenced in the body of 
the hive. Honey taken in this form is more 
saleable than any other. The sections, when 
filled, are ready to be sent to market, and are 
sold without the necessity of cutting the comb, 
which is always so objectionable. These sections 
are now, for the convenience of bee keepers, made 
all in a piece, to fold into square boxes. They are 
made of a white wood, peculiar to America, of a 
very tough nature, and the thin shavings left on 
three of the corners after grooving are sufficient 
to hold them firmly together when the fourth 
dovetailed corners are properly joined ; but they 
may be readily nailed or glued at pleasure. 

The honey extractor is another valu¬ 
able invention; by its use honey is extracted 
without injury to the combs, which are returned 
to the bees to be refilled; this causes great saving 
of time and labour in comb building, and 
increases the honey harvest greatly, for when 
honey is abundant the operation of extracting 
may be repeated every three or four days 
another advantage of the extractor is this : the 
brood chamber often gets so filled with honey 
that the queen cannot find empty cells in which 
to lay, and so the production of brood ceases, 
and the population of the hive rapidly decreases 
By extracting the honey from the brood 
combs the queen has more buildiDg space, and 
the bees are stimulated to greater activity. The 
extractor consists of a tinned iron can with an 
outlet near the bottom, closed by a valve, by 
which the honey is drawn off; there is within 
the can a four-sided frame of wirework, which 
revolves, being set in motion by a handle at the 
top; frames of comb are taken from the hive, 
the covers of the honey cells are shaken off with 
a sharp, bent knife, the combs are then placed 
in pairs on the revolving cage, and the honey is 
thrown out from the outer sides by a few turns 
of Ihe handle; the wire cages are now swung 
round, which brings the other sides of the combs 
outward, which are extracted in the same way. 
These and other improvements are now fast 
coming into vogue, and bee-keeping is being 
made a study, and is attracting the attention 
of a larger number of intelligent persons than 
at any previous time, and it is obvious that the 
large sums paid to other nations for honey might 
be kept at home if more bees were kept to bring 
in the ungathered honey from the flowers of the 
field, garden, and orchard. S. S. G. 

Boxtoorth. 


Vol. I. “ Gardening " 1 b out of print, anil we are 
therefore unable to further supply either separate coni oh 
or bound volume*. 


ur 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vou V. APRIL 7, 1883. No. 213. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Continued from page 50.) 

Alpine or Rockery Plants. 

A long list might be made of bright showy things 
which arc at home on the rockery, and in many 
instances in the herbaceous border also, with no 
preparation beyond what good cultivation in all 
cases gives. Of these may be mentioned the 
Alyssums, Aquilegias, Aubrietias, Campanulas, 
Ccrastiums, Cheiranthus, 1’rimulas, Iberis, 
Silenes, Veronicas, Thymes, Saxifrages, Seduma, 
Sempervivums, Ac. Nearly, if not quite all the 
following list of plants may be cultivated with¬ 
out more difficulty or thought than must be 
given to the same number of exotic species 
from Africa, Australia, or any other country: 
Aubrietia grandiflora, Androsace sarmentosa, A. 
carnea—the Androsace should be planted amid 
the debris of crushed or decaying rocks inter¬ 
mixed with good soil—-Ethionema cordifolium, 
Ac.'cna Novar-Zelandire, Aflemone apennina, A. 
fulgens, A. pulsatilla, Antennaria tomentosa, A. 
dioica rosea, Antholimon glumaceum, Alyssum 
speciosum, Anthyllis montana, Arabis lucida 
variegata, Armeria plantaginea rubra, Campanula 
garganica, C. pulla, C. turbinata lloribunda, C. 
t. f. alba, Calandrinia umbellata (sandy peat 
in the clefts of rockwork), Convolvulus manri- 
tanicas, Diantbus alpinus, D. deltoides, D. 
petrteus. All the alpine pinks are beautiful 
(mix a little peat with the soil), Draba gigas, 
Erysimum rupestre, Erimus alpinus does well 
on old walks or on stones that are perishing, 
Gcntiana verna, G. acaulis, G. cruciata. The 
Gentians like gritty soil and a good supply of 
moisture. Geranium sanguineum, Gaultkerea 
procumbens (should be planted in peat fully 
exposed), Globnlaria trichosantha, Gnaphalium 
leontopodium, Geum montanum, Hesperos- 
eordurn pumilus (is fond of moisture) Helianthe- 
mums (Rockrose), an interesting class of plants, 
suitable for covering rocky banks in dry situa¬ 
tions, Lithospermum fruticosum, Linaria alpina, 
L. pallida, Lychnis Haageana, L. Lagascie, 
Mesembryanthemum nncmatum.Mazus 1’umilio, 
Mvosotis rupicola (damp situations), l’apaver 
nudicaule, Phlox stolonifera, P. setacea atro- 
urpurea, P. The Bride, P. Nelsoni, P. procum¬ 
bens, P. frondosa (very effective close-spreading 
plants, light sandy soil), Polygonum vaccini- 
folium, Primula farinosa, P. cortusoides amcena, 
P. nivalis, P. cashmeriana, P. marginata, P. den- 
ticulata, P. ciliata, P. viscosa. The Primroses 
are among the most interesting border and rock 
plants. A rather shady situation, moist and yet 
not stagnant, suits them best. Ramondia py- 
renaica, Saponaria ocymoides, Saxifraga longi- 
folia, S. csesia, S. cristata, S. pyramidalis, S. 
liypnoides, S. juniperina, S. rosutaris, S. lingu¬ 
ists, S. oppositifolia, Sedum elegans, S. Ewersi, 
S. rupestre, Sempervivnm californicum, S. mon¬ 
tanum, S. globiferum, S. hirsutum. The three 
genera last named are excellent rook plants, and 
many beautiful species may he added to my list. 
Their culture is very easy. Silene alpestris, S. 
acanlis, S. maritima flore-pleno, S. pennsylvanica 
(plant in dry stony places). Iris reticulata, 
Sisyrinchum grandiflorum, Soldanella alpina 
(moisture and shade), Statice incana, Thymus 
lanuginosus, T. micans, Dryas octopetala, Sib- 
thorpia europma, Veronica incana, V. Lyalli, V. 
prostrata, V. repens, V. rupestris, Vinca minor 
argenteavariegata, V.major elegantissima,Viola 
pedata, V. p. bicolor, Cyclamen europteum C. hede- 
rafolium, C. h. album, C. h. grarcum, C. repan- 
dnm.C. vernum album. The Cyclamens are very 
lovely planted in groups, sheltered and shaded 
by rocks, and left undisturbed. Yucca acumi¬ 
nata, Y, angustifolia, Y. filamentosa, Y. recurva, 
Y gloriosa, Y. rupicola. The Yuccas are indis¬ 
pensable for the rockery, their effect being so 
striking growing on the top or out of the side 
of a mound amid low-growing plants, Rosa ru- 
gwa, R. r. rosea, R. r. rubra, R. pyrenaica. 

There are many kinds of bulbs which would 
be at home on the rockery, and this would add 
»> much to its appearance and he calculated to 
Inspire interest. Home of the Clematis and 
Other creeping and climbing plants mightibe 
introduced with advantage, £nd no vria tenhpw 
frvll the site was prepared ire-tht Nust instan'cer 


there would come a time when exhaustion 
set in, and it would be necessary to lift some of 
the plants and add manure, leaf-mould, and 
peat, to supply them with food in the place of 
that they had dissipated. This may cot be re¬ 
quired perhaps for years, especially if top- 
dressings are given occasionally, but in order to 
keep the plants in full vigour removal will some¬ 
times be necessary. 

Trees and Shrubs for Rookery. 

There is room on the smallest rockery for a 
low growing tree or a trailing shrub. They give 
elevation and character to the place, and afford 
shade and shelter to the delicate species which 
are impatient of much sunshine. Weeping trees, 
such as the silver Weeping Birch, Sophora 
japonica pendnla, Ac., arc very effective. The 
double-blossomed Gorse and the Brooms may be 
used with effect in clothing rugged banks and 
mounds. Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Kalmias, Se- 
dums, and other American shrubs may be grouped 
about or near to the rockery if space can be 
found and the soil happens be suitable or can be 
made so, and amid these groups of Americans 
might be planted the Californian and other Lilies, 
not forgetting auratum, which flourishes well 
among low growing shrubs, which seems to afford 
just the conditions as to shelter the Lilies re¬ 
quire. A few of the Bpiriea and other low- 
growing conifers will add to the appearance of 
the rockery, and colour may be given by using 
some of the many species which have gold and 
silver hues upon their foliage. The berry-bearing 
plants will appropriately find a home among the 
alpines, the Mountain Ash, some of the Aucubas, 
the Eernettyas, Skimmias, and the small 
Euonymus, which bear berriesso freely, will add 
warmth and colour at a time when flowers are 
scarce. Some of the recently introduced Japa¬ 
nese Maples, with their elegantly cut foliage, 
will give character to the fernery. The Aralias 
and some of the graceful habited Sumachs 
might be added. In elevated positions where 
the natural soil is of a stony or rocky character, 
it is better in designing the garden to take a 
hint from Nature, and plant those things only 
which the place is naturally adapted to support 
to the best advantage. This idea will refer to 
many places near the sea coast, or in mountain¬ 
ous or hilly districts everywhere. W e all know how 
charming variety is, but amid a scene beautified 
by alpine shrubs and flowers, with climbing 
and creeping plants draping bare snrfaces of 
cliff or bank, and Ferns in endless variety in the 
shady nooks and corners, there should be no 
wearisome monotony. On the contrary, ’all will 
be bright and fresh amid the ever-changiDg pro¬ 
gress of plant growth. In my view such a spot, 
arranged in a simple, natural manner, is capable 
of affording a great deal of pleasure without 
causing enormous outlay in the first instance or 
afterwards. E. Hobday. 


ROSES. 

ROSES ON BRIER STOCKS. 
Evekyone who has grown Roses on their own 
roots to any extent must know that only the 
common sorts flourish well in that way, and in 
small gardens take up too much room ; whereas, 
in the case of standards, pretty flowers can be 
planted under them, and thus utilise the space. 
“ J. D." seems to think nurserymen do not 
understand the requirements of the amateur; 
in this I think ho is mistaken, for the amateur 
is, as a rule, the best class of customer a nur¬ 
seryman can have (I am glad to say I have some 
dozens of them), and care is taken not to mis¬ 
lead. Another reason why I am in favourof the 
healthy Brier is that they will live as long as 
the man himself. It is folly to say that Roses 
for exhibition are only cut from the first year’s 
wood, and that they are not so fine afterwards. 
I saw Roses cut last year from very old stan¬ 
dards, and they took first prize at. an exhibition. 
In this case, the amateur beat the professional 
gardener. If “J. D.” would pay me a visit at 
midsummer, I would show him some standard 
Roses which I helped to plant twenty years ago. 
They have about 1-feet stems, and very large 


heads. I should like “ J. D.” to see them, as I 
should then have the pleasure of asking him if 
he thought they were “ mops and scarecrows.” 
It appears to me that “ J. D.” wants practical 
experience to teach him he is wrong in advo¬ 
cating own-root Roses for the masses of ama¬ 
teurs, for their gardens would soon look like a 
wilderness, and they would lack all the best 
Roses we have in cultivation. “ J. D.” should 
start a nursery for own-root Roses to supply 
those who want them ; he would then soon know 
why nurserymen do not grow own-root Roses 
largely. It is all very well to grow a few for 
the sake of having a variety, but they will never 
take the place of standards. “ J. D.” makes a 
great mistake about budding and grafting on 
the wild or Brier stock. That which we cannot 
"obtain by seed we obtain by grafting and bud¬ 
ding. One might as well ask why we bud and 
graft Apples, Pears, riums, Ac., on other stocks ! 
By these means we make the strong carry the 
weak, and so obtain perfection. If it were not 
so, we should bud the wild on the cultivated 
Rose. “ J. D.” appears to lose all sight of the 
fact that nurserymen graft on very young Briers 
instead of the Manetti as in former years; 
although the system is somewhat new, it is now 
getting generally in practice. "J. D.” said all 
that I write about the growth of the Rose on the 
Brier stock has been described over and over 
again in books on the subject. I shall feel 
grateful to him for the name of the author of 
such a book, as it would please me to know that 
someone is of the same opinion as myself, al¬ 
though I am not a bookworm, but rather a 
ground worm, and am always grubbing about to 
find out the freaks and secrets of Nature ; and 
to me nothing is more beautiful than a garden 
with plenty of well-grown standard Roses, some 
short, some tall and graceful. I admire and love 
them all. However much “ J. D." may admire 
his short, squatty Rose bushes, with Raspberry 
cane-like appearance, and however much he may 
ridicule those beautiful standards described by 
me, I think he will stand somewhat alone in the 
opinion of all lovers of the Rose. 

Woodford. A Pbacticai. Man. 


To cure mossy lawns.— There are two 
causes why Moss grow s two abundantly on lawns, 
viz., poverty and damp, and the particular cause 
should be ascertained before setting about the 
removal of the Moss, otherwise we shall be 
working in the dark. Assuming that the lawn, 
if wet, has be drained, the Moss can be scratched 
up with a short-toothed harrow drawn over the 
surface in opposite directions till the Moss has 
been loosened ; then line the harrow with thorn 
spray and give the lawn a good scrubbing in 
various directions, till the Moss has been dragged 
up aud removed. A small lawn might be worked 
with an iron rake and a hard birch broom. When 
the Moss is all removed, top-dress with half an 
inch of rich fine soil that can he relied upon to 
be free from weed seeds. The compost may 
contain a good proportion of charred refuse that 
has been sifted; wood ashes, or the refuse from 
charcoal heaps will also be very suitable. The 
thing to aim at is a close thick turf, and this will 
be obtained better by the use of dressings rich 
in phosphates than by giving ammoniaeal 
manures, though the latter might be the right 
thing to do if we wanted heavy crops of Grass. 
The land should be got into a nice condition for 
sowing a renovating mixture of Grass and 
Clover seeds in the end of March or in April. A 
bushel per acre will not be too much to sow, as 
the birds will probably take some of the seeds. 
I am convinced that in iayiDg down lawns few 
people use enough seeds. White Clover and 
yellow Trefoil alone, without any Grass seeds, 
may suffice in f me cases. Where Moss is due 
to poverty in the soil, a good manuring will put 
it right; and it often happens that it is better 
to rely on a mixture of artificial manures than 
place entire dependence upon any one kind. At 
the same time what has been said about phos¬ 
phates should be borne in mind.—E. 

Fixing hot-water pipes. — In reply to "P.'s 
question, indlnrubber rings tor socket* will last nearly n 
lifetime if nut removed from the time they are tlxeti. — 
Lucky. 






62 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[April 7, 1883. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


THE MONKEY PUZZLE. 

(ARAUCARIA IMBRICATA.) 

This ornamental lawn tree will succeed in nearly 
all parts of England where the situation is dry 
and the soil suitable, but in low damp situations 
it frequently gets injured in very cold winters. 
When the Boil is not suitable the tree loses its 
lower branches, and becomes anything but an 
object of beauty. Turfy loam, such as that cut 
from the roadsides, mixed with common garden 
soil would be excellent for it. A round hole 
should be dug, say G feet in diameter and 2£ feet 
deep, the bottom should then be roughly turned 
over and a little brick rubbish or similar material 
be mixed with it to act as drainage. A little of 
the coarsest loam may then be placed in the 
form of a cone over the drainage, and on this the 
plant may be placed, allowing the roots to be 
laid out evenly all round and in a slightly 
slanting direction. Place over the roots a little 
line soil, which work well in between them with 
the hand; then fill up the hole, well tread the 
soil in, give a good soaking with water, place a 
stout stake to the tree, and tie it with stout 
woollen material, yarn, or anything that will not 
cut into the bark of the tree; leave it for a few 
days and the earth may be turned over, or 
planted with plants, or sown with annuals as 
desired. The great point is to secure thorough 
drainage, for without this the roots get injured 
in winter, and the tree soon begins to decline. 
The prasent is a good time to plant. 


SWEET HAY'S. 

The Sweet Bay (Laurus nobilis) is well known 
Hi a strong-growing tree-like shrub, a native of 
Asia, but cultivated now over the greater part of 
Southern Europe and the more temperate part 9 
of the north. It forms a vigorous shrub with 
arching branches, smooth twigs, and short- 
stalked leathery leaves, which are highly aroma¬ 
tic. The liower is of a yellowish white colour, 
the fruit an oval, cherry-like berry of a blue- 
black tint-. This Bay, in the form of round- 
headed standards and pyramids of various 
dimensions, is largely used for the embellish¬ 
ment of villa gardens, terraces, and other formal 
arrangements. The trade with the Belgian and 
French houses in Sweet Bays in these shapes 
has of late years acquired great importance, bur, 
the first cost, together with the transit and 
agency expenses, makes them exceedingly dear, 
thereby rendering them accessible to the wealthy 
ou'y. The Belgians were the first who grew 
them in large quantities for export, being greatly 
assisted in that respect by the favourable cli¬ 
mate. Ours is, however, equally favourable, and 
therefore we ought to grow such trees ourselves. 

Pyramids. —When it is desired to have a 
standard, pyramid, or any form requiring a stem 
ic is essential to raise the plants from seed. 
Plants from cuttings or suckers are by no means 
to be recommended, and any attempt made with 
such will end in failure. The seed comes chiefly 
from Italy and the countries bordering the Adria¬ 
tic, and should be easily obtained. Like all ody 
seeds, those of the Bay lose their vitality in a com¬ 
paratively short period afterbeinggathered; there¬ 
fore no time should be lost in sowing them. New 
seed sown in autumn will come up in spring, 
or if sown in the early part of the year in 
about two or three months. A cold pit or frost¬ 
proof frame is the most suitable place for it, 
\ he young plants being more vigorous under cold 
t reatment than warm. When they are 2 inches 
n height they may be potted off singly to be 
planted out in a place where they can be pro¬ 
tected with a frame in winter, or they may be 
pricked out in good loamy soil at once and kept 
close till well rooted. They will grow strongly 
the first year, and must be allowed to grow un- 
praned. The growth will, however, be stronger 
rue second year, and it will then be possible to 
distinguish those that will be most suitable 
owiug to their branch arrangements to form 
pyramids, which must then be assisted by the 
knife to assume the proper form. 

Standards.— In autumn those intended for 
this purpose must have their stem bent close to 
the soil, and be securely fastened there with a 
stout wooden hook, taking care not to fracture 
the rind. By the spring two strong buds will 
have formed at the base of the stem, and, owing 
to the husbanding of the sap by the bendiDg 
process, they wi/lgrqw^ very, ftfopgly. The 


ling or^ the sap by the be 
vif grow very *tjongly. 



weaker must be removed as soon as distinguish- which will consequently be of a greenish colour, 
able, and the other allowed to grow on. By the This will improve the quality of the manure as 
end of the summer it will have reached the stan- a fertiliser, and quickly free it from worms, 
dard height, and have a thickness at the base of large and small. Whether it kills them or 
three quarters of an inch. The two-year-old bent- drives them away I am unable to say, but at all 


down stem must becutoff as soon as the bud leftat 
its base has made a good start. Herewith the 
work of stem rearing becomes complete. The 
formation of the head will depend in all cases 
on the amount of skill brought to bear on the 
after operations of pruning and arranging the 
branches. Six or eight years will be required 
to grow a well-balanced, saleable specimen of 
either form. S. 


events they disappear. A similar result may be 
obtained by well watering the heap with strong 
lime water, but gas lime, if it can be obtained, 
is best.—P. G. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


Potting and watering Ferns.— As a 

rule we only pot our Ferns once in two years. 
When established they do not like being dis¬ 
turbed; sometimes they may even do without 
repotting for three or four seasons, but about 
this time every one of them should be turned 


EuonymuBea as town bushes.— These 
are about the best shrubs anyone can plant in 
towns, as they withstand all kinds of adverse 
conditions better than any other kind of ever- out of their pots, and if everything be right, the 


green. They are extremely hard}', being seldom j drainage and ever inch of the outer part of the 
or never injured by severe weather. Smoke has ball will be one mass of fibres. If worms have 
no influence on them, and under bushes and j been running amongst the roots, and the drain¬ 
age is choked up with 
small particles of soil 
with no roots in it, then 
success need not be ex¬ 
pected if they are allow¬ 
ed to remain in that con¬ 
dition. The drainage at 
least must be removed, 
and clean material ana 
a clean pot substituted, 
but in most cases of the 
kind it is best to repot 
altogether, and in doing 
this all b id soil and 
decayed roots should 
be removed. This will 
allow the plant to be 
replaced in a pot about 
the same size as that 
from which it came, and 
l would not use any much 
larger, as the roots do 
not require much space, 
especially when reduced. 
If plants in large pots 
are required it is those 
well furnished with roots 
that should be trans¬ 
ferred. A mixture of 
rough loam, rough peat, 
and plenty of sand suits 
all kinds of Ferns well. 
In potting, the finest of 
the mixture should oever 
be put at the bottom; 
it must be on the top, if 
anywhere, but very fine 
material should not be 
used. What soil requires 
to be put at the bottom 

trees or in the shade of houses and dark corners ! should be placed carefully over the crocks and be 
they are as healthy as in the most favourable firmly rammed down before the plant is put in, and 
positions, facts which deserve to be made widely | when space is limited between the old ball and 
known, as there is a constant demand for bushes I the sides of the pot it may be a difficult matter 
for situations of the kind. Half of those planted i to get rough pieces filled in, but they should be 
fail to grow, and the greater part of the other pressed firmly down with a piece of stick, and 
half are never attractive. In some of the smoke- care should be taken that no little vacancies are 
laden atmospheres and towns in Wales I have j left. After potting, one thorough watering at 
lately seen many Euonymuses growing in the ' the root should be given, and the soil will not 
greatest luxuriance, and not only forming become dry again for some days. By one water- 
handsome individual bushes, but actually making ing I, however, mean more than once filling the 
great hedges and effectually shutting out ob- space left for this purpose. After the first quan- 

— u, ~ — * - J - J ^ tity has soaked in, another should be given, and 

if it is thought that this may not be enough to 
wet all parts of the soil, more may be applied. 
Once the whole of the material has become 
thoroughly wet the roots are sure to go on well, 
but if only the surface soil is wetted, growth 
will neither begin nor continue satisfactorily. 
Ferns whose fronds have become ragged and 
discoloured should be cut down to the crown. 
Flants which are not to be repotted should be 
treated in this way before they have begun to 
grow, and those which are repotted should be 
cut over when that operation is being performed. 
It is astonishing how much Ferns may be bene¬ 
fited by weak doses of liquid manure given twice 
a week or so. Soot water and cow manure 
water are both good, and when these are used 
—especially m the case of plants which have 
not been repotted—the result is most satisfac¬ 
tory.—C. 

Geranium b in winter. — I have just 
seen Mr. Hankin’s assertion that my system of 
having scarlet Pelargoniums in flower all the 
year is an impossible one. I beg to say I have 


Monkey Puzzle (Araucaria imbiicata). 


jectionable views from roads and other houses. 
There are a good many forms of Euonymus, in¬ 
cluding green and goldeD, green and silver, and 
dark green. They are all most pleasing in 
appearance, and all appear to be alike hardy. 
Where other shrubs have failed in the positions 
indicated, let me ask those interested to give 
Euonymuses a trial. They are easily raised 
from cuttings, and they may now be bought 
cheaply in nurseries.—C. 

Ornamental shrubs —We seldom see 
mentioned an old-fashioned shrub at this time 
of the year in full flower and highly ornamental; 
although each flower may be small, yet the mass 
of bright yellow is very effective. I refer to the 
Cornelian Cherry (Cornus mascula).— Paxton. 


Worms in manure.— These should be got 
rid of, particularly if the manure is intended for 
potting purposes. The best way to effect this 
is to turn the manure, and add to it while doing 
?o a few bushels of gas lime, that is, lime from 
the purifiers through which gas has passed, and 


A“C 




Arm 7, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


63 


pursued it for fifteen years, and there is at this 
moment a salmon-coloured Geranium in the 
vinery, quite 4 feet high and as much through, 
covered with buds and flowers, which has never 
been out of bloom for two years; it has had no 
liquid manure nor any special treatment. Mr. 
Han kin fails to see that I advocate the treat¬ 
ment of the scarlet Pelargonium as a continuous 
bloomer as giving the amateur less trouble and 
far less expense. By raising young plants 
yearly of course only one period of blooming can 
be ensured. As to the vinery being a forcing 
house, the Vines are all Black Ham burghs and 
we never have a Grape ripe before September. 

1 did not say things come of themselves ; on the 
contrary, I feel sure our success is due to the 
large amount of sun-heat our Geraniums receive. 
—A. B. T., JSast Anglia. 

Poinsettias planted out.— Last year I 
had a considerably larger stock of Poinsettias 
than was required for pot work. A quantity of 
the oldest plants, instead of being consigned 
to the rubbish heap, were cut down close and 
planted out in the open air on a south border 
about the end of May. They soon commenced 
to grow, two or three shoots being on each plant, 
and in most cases stronger than those on the 
plants that were potted. They continued grow¬ 
ing all summer, when they were carefully lifted 
in September and placed in a moderate tem¬ 
perature near the glass to set root action in 
motion again. The flower-heads when fully 
developed in December measured from 12 inches 
to 15 inches across, and in every respect out- 
rivalled those growing in pots. I have never 
seen nor heard of Poinsettias being planted out¬ 
doors, but I intend planting more of them in the 
same manner this summer.—T. C., Srvenoahx. 

Freeeia refracta alba.— This charming 
white-flowered plant is exceedingly useful for 
the production of flowers for cutting in winter. 
They are deliciously fragrant, and are arranged 
in spikes, with a peculiar bend, the stem of which 
continues to throw out additional spikclets of 
bloom. The plant lasts in beauty for several 
months during the very depth of winter, and the 
flowers when cut and placed in water remain in 
good condition for more than a week, emitting 
all that time a delicious perfume. For forming 
bouquets or for ladies’ hair, scarcely any blooms 
can surpass those of this Freesia, which is nearly 
if not quite hardy ; at all events, it comes into 
bloom early in December in a cold pit, or in the 
temperature of an ordinary greenhouse. The 
bulbs should be potted in any ordinary light rich 
soil early in August, placing five bulbs in a 
flinch pot.—P. G. 

9520.— Date Palms.— The seed of the or¬ 
dinary Date—that is the long hard substance in 
the centre of each—will germinate freely in a 
brisk hotbed, such as is made up for Melons at 
this time of year. The seed should be sown in 
pots in rather stiff soil, and it should be buried 
an inch deep and the soil pressed in pretty 
firmly, taking care not to fill it too full, so as to 
allow plenty of room for water, for the seed 
must be constantly kept damp from the time it 
is sown till the plants are up. The pots should 
be plunged into the bed nearly to the rim. The 
after culture consists in potting them when large 
enough,shifting them in larger pots when required, 
and this must be regulated according to the size 
they are wanted; if for table plants they should 
be kept in 6-inch pots in which they may remain 
for years, and they will keep green and healthy 
if given a suitable temperature. Although the 
plants will live for a long time in a living 
room without injury—indeed, during the summer 
months they are as well there as in a green¬ 
house—it is well to have sufficient plants to 
change them now and then in winter. If they are 
required to make specimen plants they should 
be shifted into larger pots whenever required, 
always potting them in rather stiff soil, adding 
eand enough to keep it porous ; they require a 
winter temperature of from 66° to 60° with a 
corresponding rise in summer, and plenty of 
water at the root, and a rather moist atmosphere 
to grow them fast. The plants want sponging 
with clean water pretty often when in rooms, 
and with soap suds should insects gather on 
them in the greenhouse.—0. P. 

9513 — Solanums.— If “ R. D.” adopts the 
following mode of treatment I think he will be 
well satisfied with his Solanums: When the 
plants have flowered, remove them 
house and harden them off. / ABout 


them out in the open border, exposed to the full 
sun, and slightly cut them back and train out so 
that they will be nice, bushy plants about Septem¬ 
ber, when they should be carefully taken up and 
potted. When potted, shade for a week, and 
after this keep them in the sunniest place in the 
house.—A. H. Davis, Carshalton. 

-Cut down the plants at once to within 

3 or 4 inches of the stem, then keep them in 
a cool greenhouse or frame until the last week 
in May, giving plenty of air, then plant them out 
in good, lignt soil in a sunny situation. About 
the first week in September take them up and 
pot them; let them remain out-of-doors for a 
fortnight or three weeks longer, and afterwards 
remove them to a cool greenhouse (on noaccouDt 
give them heat) ; give plenty of air on all favour¬ 
able occasions, for if kept too close they will 
soon loose part of their leaves. By this treat¬ 
ment “ Magdalene ” will ensure plenty of berries. 
—A. J. M. 

9498.— Azalea buds withering. — The 

Azalea has sustained a check in some way that 
the bloom buds fall off. A very low temperature 
would do it, or, what is more likely, stagnation 
at the roots, with over-wateriDg and bad drain¬ 
age. Bad drainage is the source of untold evils 
in the greenhouse, as then the plants are wet and 
cold at the roots.—G. C., Eccleg. 

- The Azalea buds may wither from either 

of three causes, (1) through being grown in 
too great heat with insufficient air; (2) from 
beiDg kept in too dry an atmosphere: and (3) 
from want of water at the rcot. It. should be 
borne in mind that when Azaleas are swelling 
their flower buds they are also in most cases 
starting their wood growth at the same time; 
consequently the strain on the roots would be 
great, therefore they require liberal wateiings; 
indeed, during the time 1 lie buds are swelling, 
when they are in flower, and till their wood 
growth is completed, they require abundance of 
water at the root, a rather moist atmosphere, 
and air on all favourable occasions; and care 
should be taken never to let them suffer from 
want of water when out of doors in summer, 
for not only would they be infested with thrips, 
but their flowering another season would be 
injured thereby.—0. P. 


FRUIT. 


FIG TREES IN TOTS. 

Within the memoiy of many middle-aged fruit 
growers the culture of the Fig was confinrd to 
a limited number of gardens, and none but the 
wealthy thought of giving it. a place under glass, 
but, thanks to such enterprising men as Messrs. 
Rivers, Veitcb, and Osborn, we now have a Dum¬ 
ber of kinds of the highest quality peculiarly 
adapted for pot culture under glass, and so well 
is the management of this beat-loviDg tree 
understood by men who have to provide large 
supplies for the London market demand that we 
now have English fruit from the early part of 
April until the end of the “ Sussex season.'* But 
the amateur whose space or heating power may 
be extremely small must not suppose that all 
kinds are alike adapted for his convenience. By 
all means plant the Ischias of different sorts, 
Castle Kennedy, Brunswick, and others against 
warm, lofty walls, or in large houses for mid¬ 
season and late use; but as some of these do 
not fruit or force well when young, short-jointed 
kinds like Osborn’s Prolific, which shows as 
many Figs as leaves, forces well, and ripens off 
most delicious fruit, should be selected. 

There are, of course, many other kinds well 
adapted for growing in pots or planting out in 
borders ; and some of the best are Black, Brown, 
and White Ischia, Doct or Hogg, Negro Largo—a 
mo8t excellent black Fig—Brown Turkey, and 
White Marseilles. Where pot culture is contem¬ 
plated, now is a good time to commence, and as 
plants can be manufactured from eyes, cuttings, 
or suckers in a very short time, suitable kinds 
should be put in without delay, or, time beiDg 
an object, established fruiting trees may be 
obtained from aDy of the leading nurseries. 

In selecting young Figs, the same rule should 
be followed as in the case of Gooseberry and Cur¬ 
rant bushes, viz., those should be chosen which 
have single stems about 1 foot high, and regular, 
well-balanced heads of branches should Ve 
formed by pinching out the points of the strong 
shoots as soon as they have attained the desired 
length ; after the heads are well furnish* d with 



bearing wood, every shoot should be stopped at 
the third or fourth leaf, as the second crop under 
glass is usually more abundant than the first: 
and if well supplied with liquid manure, the 
trees will perfect both crops well, and likewise 
ripen eff their youDg wood and an embryo crop 
for the first of the following year, but care 
should be taken not to excite growth before 
the trees have shed their foliage. As soon, how¬ 
ever, as the frnit is ripe the trees should be kept 
as cool and airy as possible, and less root and 
atmospheric moisture supplied, so as to ripen off 
the wood and induce a season of rest under as 
natural conditions as possible. No doubt the 
wood of pot Fig trees grown in this manner 
would stand without injury a degree of cold that 
would prove fatal to the soft, watery shoots that 
are frequently found on trees out of doors. 

Pot Fig trees are, however, always safest under 
some kind of protection, and as light is not ab¬ 
solutely necessary for them during the resting 
period, they may be set in any dark shed, and 
the greenhouse may be more advantageously 
employed up to the season when it is thought 
most desirable to re-introduce the Figs for the 
season’s work, which must of course be regulated 
by the time at which the produce is most re¬ 
quired. Figs will not only bear but are greatly 
improved by a high temperature and plenty of 
moisture, but along with them the plants should 
have all the light which it is possible to give them 
in our dull climate, for if grown under Vines or 
other kiDd of shade, onlj r secondary results must 
be expected. As regards soil nothing is better 
than turfy loam and old mortar rubbish rammed 
hard into the pots, room being left for watering, 
which is one of the chief items in Fig culture, 
for when loaded with frnit and foliage, the 
amount of moisture which a large Fig bush will 
require on a bright day is astonishing, and if 
allowed to get dry enough for the foliage to 
flag, the loss of the crop will probably be the 
result. 


Coil boilers —I have had a couple of win¬ 
ters' experience with two slow combustion coil 
boilers, and find that they are not satisfactory 
to me. - The fault with both of them is that the 
fire gradually burns away the inner sheet iron 
casiDg, which is above the coil; and this not 
only permits the outer casiDg to become unsafely 
hot where woodwork is near to it, but wastes a 
considerable amount of fuel in doiDg so. When 
I found that this had occurred in my first boiler, 
I blamed my bad management as the cause, 
thinking I had not been sufficiently careful to 
keepthegrooveintowhichthetoplid fits filled with 
sand, and thus permuting a current &f air to go 
from above and cause a top combustion. I sold 
the boiler at a sacrifice, and when I purchased 
another it is reedless to add that I exeicised 
special care to in all wajs guard against the 
evil, but, as in the former case, the inner lining 
has within three months consumed away for a 
considerable distance up. Another fault they 
both possess is that, unless a tolerably brisk 
fire is kept going, the coke, be it broken 
small or used in large lumps, will usually at the 
most critical time “hang up,” whilst the fire 
burns away and dies out underneath it. When 
I say critical time, I mean in the coldest 
weather, which seems to contract the ironwork 
slightly and grip the coke; and this will happen 
despite the utmost precautions as to regulating 
the draught and using coke nicely broken, uo 
matter whether the boiler be indoors or out. I 
had thought of procuring a boiler advertised by 
different firms as the “Star,” but a friend of 
mine procured one, and on examination I find 
that the fire chamber for about 3 or 4 inches 
above the grating (and this is the place where a 
small fire always is) is not surrounded by water, 
and thus the heat radiates to waste, whether 
the fire be big or little. I Fee boilers adver¬ 
tised by other makers in which the cylinder 
for water descends right to the gTatiDg, and 
these, I believe, would be the most effective aLd 
economical of fuel, although they cost twice 
as much as the forms of boiler I have adverted 
to. I think that true efficiency and reliability 
are cheapest in the end, although purchased at 
twice the cost; but as I propose ousting my 
present boiler before another season, I, and 
dorlllcV? >cores of other renders, will be glad 
• f a concensus of opinion on this important 
matter. During the late unusually inclement 
weather I have had to rise at three or four 
o'clock each morning to go and meicd the 


64 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[April 7, 1883, 


fire. This in future I should like to avoid. Will 
other amateurs please send their experiences.— 
Kew. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 


Extractt f rom a Garden Diary—April 9 to 
April 14. 

Sowing Cottager's Kale, Asparagus Kale, and green 
Curled Kale; also Snow’s Winter White, Leamington, 
Knight’s Protecting, Wilcove, and Summer Broccoli 
Thinning out Carrots in frames ; also thinning lettuces, 
Kadi«hes, and Turnips. Sowing a collection of Ever¬ 
lastings. Sticking Peas. Getting all bedding plants out 
under south walls, to harden as fast as they become fit 
for exposure. Hoeing amongst all growing crops as fast 
as the weather u ill permit. Sowing Scarlet Itunners in 
deep trenches, so that they may he easily protected from 
frost; also Nasturtiums, Mignonette, Larkspurs, and 
Convolvulus ; and likew ise a collection of Antirrhinums. 
Pricking out Lettuces, Celery, Asters, Stocks, and 
Tagctes. Planting out spring-sown Cauliflower plants ; 
also Giant White Cos and All tho Year Round Lettuces. 
Tying down young shoots in early vineries, and thinning 
Grapes where required. Potting plants of Scented Ver¬ 
benas, Tricolor Pelargoniums, and Tomatoes. Giving 
Cucumbers a little top-dressing, picking off all false 
blossoms, and stopping them where required. Clearing 
off Broccoli stumps and other vegetable refuse. Manur¬ 
ing the ground and getting it dug up as fast as is conve¬ 
nient. Potting off seedling Ageratums, Solanums, and 
Petunias ; also Alteruantheras, Coleus, Verbenas. Vege¬ 
table Marrows, and ridge Cucumbers. Mowing and 
cleaning up pleasure grounds, and rolliug down all 
gravel and turf that require it. Hoeing between rows of 
Parsnips, Onions, and Carrots. 

Glasshouses. 

Daphne indica. —Young or medium-sized 
plants that have done flowering should at once 
be placed in an intermediate temperature, for if 
only treated as ordinary greenhouse stock, the 
progress they make is slow, and the flowers 
they produce small and wanting in quantity. As 
to tho amount of pot room given, it is necessary 
to adopt a medium course, for although this 
Daphne cannot bear over-potting, yet, if the 
opposite extreme is followed, it gets into a 
stunted condition, out of which it is difficult to 
move it. Old examples are much benefited by 
the use of weak manure water at the time when 
they are making growth. 

Pelargoniums. —Exception is often taken 
to the formally trained examples of the large- 
flowered and fancy varieties of these plants seen 
at exhibitions, and for ordinary decorative pur¬ 
poses it is not necessary nor desirable to either 
grow them to the size of exhibition plants or 
attempt tho same form of training; fall! in other 
matters the general cultivator will do well to 
adopt the treatment that the exhibitors follow, 
which is first to induce the greatest amount of 
root formation of which the plants are capable, 
and afterwards to sustain them by liberal stimu¬ 
lants in the shape of manure water applied at 
the right time, which is when the flower trusses 
are formed in quantity ; without this the bloom 
will bo deficient in size, and the foliage will be 
wanting in the rich green colour that adds so 
much to the general appearance. If the plants 
have all along been kept, as advised, through 
the winter close up to the glass, the shoots will 
be so stout and short-jointed as to require not 
more than half a dozen small sticks to each to 
give the requisite support. Many of the newer 
varieties of zonal Pelargoniums are alike re¬ 
markable for the size of the individual flowers 
and for the size of the trusses, but where the 
bloom is much required for cutting this is a 
questionable advantage, as small bunches forth¬ 
coming in quantity are generally more useful. 
It is therefore well to select such kinds as will 
best meet the purpose required. In the case of 
young stock propagated last autumn, it will be 
advisable to stop the shoots sufficiently often to 
lay the foundation for bushy examples with a 
view of having them at their best towards the 
latter part of summer when the ordinary spring- 
ilowering plants are over. 

Primulas. —Some seed of these, if not 
already sown, should at once be put in, so as to 
give time for the plants to get large enough to 
bloom strongly in the last months of the year, 
for if the stock is lato and weak their flowering 
will be proportionately meagre. Hardy Prim¬ 
roses, such as the different coloured varieties of 
P. cortusoides with P. japonica, are deserving of 
pot culture wherever there is a greenhouse, for 
when well managed they are beautiful objects 
in no way inferior to the more generally grown 
Chinese varieties. Now is a good time to get 
up a stock ; small plants procured at the present 
peason wi|l, if well wed for, matte strong 

Mgitized by GOOgle 


examples before the end of summer that will 
bloom freely next spring. Double Primulas 
intended for division in about a fortnight will 
be the better now for being thoroughly cleaned 
and kept rather close till .that time, as by so 
doing the formation of roots is hastened ; indeed, 
after being so treated it is often possible to see 
the young roots just protruding from the exposed 
parts of the stem.—T. B. 

Flowers and Plants in Rooms. 

These are now in such general request that 
sufficient must be provided to meet the demand. 
In the selection of varieties, particularly of such 
as are grown for their handsome leaves, it is 
advisable to choose those that are capable of 
keeping np a healthy appearance under tho 
adverse conditions by which they will be sur¬ 
rounded. Amongst the species and varieties 
that will bear the atmosphere of living rooms 
where gas or oil is burnt, are some of the hardier 
kinds of Palms, the green and variegated forms 
of Aspidistra, the India-rubber plant, and small 
growing green kinds of Dractena that will thrive 
in a greenhouse, such as D. congesta, D. lineata, 
and D. rubra. The Aspidistra may be increased 
by division of its creeping underground stems 
now when commencing growth. The Palms are 
raised from seed, but their propagation is better 
left to those who raise them in large numbers. 
Small plants beginning to show their natural 
habit can be kept in a healthy state in very little 
pots by the use of manure water through the 
summer season whilst the most active growth is 
going on. Palms will grow in almost any de¬ 
scription of soil, but where they are to be sub¬ 
jected to the rough usage indispensable from 
being located in rooms, loam imparts more 
substance to the foliage. The India-rubber is 
easily increased from cuttings made of the young 
shoots with some two or three leaves each; they 
will root if kept confined under a propagating 
glass either with or without heat, but where they 
can have warmth the rooting process will be 
sooner effected. Each Bpring a sufficient 
quantity of this description of stock, to take the 
place of that which gets too large, ought to be 
provided. Amongst Ferns that will bear full 
exposure to the atmosphere of a room may be 
mentioned Davallia canariensis, Adiantum 
cuneatum, A. pubescens, Pteris serrulata, and 
some of the crested forms of this Fern which 
attain a much larger size than the type, and P. 
cretica and its variegated variety. These, if 
regularly supplied with water and allowed to 
make their growth in the rooms in which they 
are to be kept, will produce fronds of a hard, 
enduring character that will last much better 
than those that are grown in plant houses and 
afterwards moved to the rooms.—B. 

Flower Garden. 

General work.— Cuttings of tender kinds 
of beddiDg plants may still be put in, others 
may be potted off, and so should seedling sub¬ 
tropical plants. The earliest sown Castor-oils 
and Solanums will now require a shift into 5-inch 
pots; old roots of Cannas must be divided, 
potted, and placed in warmth, and in order to 
make room for these gradually remove from the 
pita all the kinds that will stand a degree or 
two of frost. Tuberous Begonias should now be 
started into growth. Plant them in boxes, 
placing the tubers about 3 inches apart. The 
soil should be at least half leaf-mould ; they will 
then transplant with abundance of fibres. Seed¬ 
lings of the present year to be of much service 
during the coming summer will still need all the 
heat that can be afforded them, and about the 
middle of May they may be removed to cooler 
quarters. Our experience in the use of the 
current year’s seedlings of these plants is such 
that to any who may be depending on plants of 
that age we would say, “ Don’t.” Be content 
to wait another year, and in the meantime grow 
on the seedlings as vigorously as possible; the 
tubers will then be in good order for next sum¬ 
mer’s arrangements. Tubers or roots of every 
other kind should also now be taken out of their 
winter quarters, and be placed in pits to start 
them steadily into growth. In the open air the 
most pressing duties are the completion of 
pruning shrubs and hedges, and the placing of 
supports to and mulching the roots of recently 
moved trees, an operation which the long con¬ 
tinued dry weather renders necessary. Newly 
sown laws should be frequently rolled, and if 
pe^tpesfi be valued, do pot neglect to mow, and 


also to dress with soot or wood ashes any j.-m 
lions of the turf that have a sickly hue. 

Herbaceous borders — All plants j| 
these will now be above ground, and therefore ai 
soon as the necessary digging and manuring hat 
been done all vacant plots should be filled n 
with Gladioli, Hollyhocks, Campanulas, Antifl 
rhinums, Pentstemons, Foxgloves, Violas, PinkiJ 
Sunflowers, Sweet Peas, and suitable annuals 
The whole of the border should be lightly forkel 
over, and stakes should be placed to kinds liab* 
to be injured by winds or heavy rains. Delphi 
niums, Dielytras, and the flower-stems of Geura 
are among those that at the present time nee 
supports. Any bare spots near the margins 3 
borders should be sown with Mignonette, Vii 
ginian Stocks, and dwarf Silenes, or, as soon a 
weather permits, be planted with Lobelia 
variegated Mesembryanthemums, Verbenas, am 
Heliotropes. 

Planting hardy bedders. —In order ii 
keep pace with the work to be done at lit 
general planting-out time, every kind of pha 
that can now be put out should be so. Edging 
and groundworks consisting of hardy Seduiis 
Saxifrages, and Cerastiums are what we su 
dow planting; next will come Violas, Verber^i, 
Calceolarias, the hardier succulents, and Goldei 
Feather Pyrethrum, and when these have all 
been planted the remaining vacant plots will U 
labelled and the plants put out as soon as they 
can be safely exposed. Meanwhile some of th 
plots will have special attention as to the soil 
those for Alternantheras will be given a dresii-c 
of lialf-decayed leaf-mould and horse mature 
plots for Calceolarias, Violas, Fuchsias, ar 
Verbenas will receive an extra good dressing 
manure, and all the plots will be forked up az: 
left rough till planted, in order that they may 
bo subjected to the ameliorating influences of 
sun and wind.—W. W. II. 

Fruit. 

Melons. —Keep the atmosphere of the hoim: 
in which early Melons are setting their frci'. 
moderately dry with a circulation of air ; fertile 
all blossoms on fine days, and give very little 
water to the roots until a good set has been 
secured. With pot. plants this is not difficult, a- 
the most troublesome setters can be brought inn- 
subjection by the application of bottom hear, 
and withholding water from the roots. As soon ] 
as the fruits begin to swell syringing may be I 
resumed to keep them free from spider; bo* 
water must be sparingly given at first, as a flutf. 
before the fruit attains the size of Walna!.* 
would most likely cause it to turn yellow ar<. 
go off. If the compost—stiff calcareous loan; 
and bone dust—is dry and in a tit state for om; 
as a top-dressing see that it is made as warm 
the soil in which the plants are growing befoif 
it touches the stems, and guard against mjnrirs 
them in its application, as canker is oft€i 
brought on by undue pressure, or the use of co’d 
materials. As soon as the roots have taken v. 
the top-dressing apply warm stimulating liquid 
as often as the plants can take it. Keep the 
bottom heat at 85°, syringe at S0° on fine after¬ 
noons, and run up 5° to 10° after closing. Give 
a little front air at the close of the day, and let 
the night heat range about 70°. 

Thin out and train the laterals on succession 
plants, pinch the points of leaders were they 
have covered two-thirds of the trellis, and in¬ 
duce a firm wiry growth by giving plenty of heat 
and air through the early part of the day. Make 
fresh sowings for succession and for planting in 
pits and frames after Potatoes and other forced 
vegetables are cleared away. Hardy kinds like 
Golden Gem answer best for this culture. In pits 
and frames keep up a bottom heat of 85° by 
means of linings and cover the glass at night. 
Earth up with fresh friable loam as the roots re¬ 
quire it, usiDg lumps of charcoal or broken brick 
to keep the soil away from the stems of the 
plants. Avoid wetting the foliage until the 
weather becomes warmer, as moisture is generally 
abundant where fermenting material is used as 
a heat-producing agent. 

Hardy fruit.—If not already done, Figs 
may now be pruned and nailed or tied to the 
walls, care being observed that a space is not 
left to admit of a current of air behind the 
shoots. As I have before observed, pmniDg 
should simply consist of thinning out the shoots 
and arranging the past year's growths, so as to 
(rave an even sprejyl of well-ripened shoot i 



Arttn. 7, 1883 ] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


65 



studded with embryo fruit, all over the space 
allotted to the tree, and as all the fruit of any 
value will be found near the points or the shoots, 
the latter should never be shortened at the 
spring pruning unless young branches are wanted 
to fill up vacancies. 

Apricots.—Where broad coping boards and 
heavy coverings have been used, a little judicious 
management in their removal will be necessary. 
The boards will, of course, remain for some time 
longer, but the canvas must be taken off every 
day and put back at night on the approach of 
danger. Disbud gross shoots and keep a sharp 
look-out for the active little grubs whose where¬ 
abouts is easily detected by the rolled-up 
appearance of the points of the young shoots. 

Peaches and Neotarlnes, now in full 
bloom, and many of the early kinds setting, will 
require constant attention to keep them from 
aphis until it is safe to apply the usual dressing. 
Avoid the use of dangerous dressings until their 
strength has been properly tested. Our fore¬ 
fathers used soft soap, sulphur, and Tobacco 
water; their trees were kept alive for half a 
century, and if they did not cultivate so many 
kinds, they grew quite as good Teaches as we 
do.—W. C. 

Market fruit gardens.— Grafting is now 
an important operation. By means of crown or 
rind grafting Apples, Pears, and Plums are con¬ 
verted from unsatisfactory trees into fruitful 
and profitable ones. Top-dressing trees recently 
planted must no longer be delayed; it is the 
drought in spring before the roots get established 
that is so much to be dreaded. Last season a 
large quantity of Cob Nuts and Filberts were 
planted late on a south slope, and a severe 
drought followed. The greater portion of these 
bushes had each about a barrowful of manure 
spread over their roots, and amongst them not 
one failed, whilst of some left bare nearly half 
died, and the rest only just kept alive, but made 
no growth like those that were mulched. 
Orchards on Grass, to which farmyard manure 
was applied during the winter, will now need 
bush harrowing and rolling, at the same time 
picking off stones and forkingup Docks, Thistles, 
or Nettles. Orchard Grass should never be 
made into bay, but fed off closely, as is just 
now being done by ewes and lambs. Orchards 
or fruit gardens dug up roughly in winter should 
now have the soil made fine by means of prong 
hoes. Strawberry beds must be divested of 
weeds and heavily mulched with fresh stable 
manure, the good properties of which will get 
washed down to the roots by rain and thus stimu¬ 
late growth and form a clean, dry bed for the 
fruit to rest upon. 

Birds must be kept off fruit buds either by 
powder and shot or by means of some other 
remedy, for if allowod undisturbed access to 
trees and bushes but little fruit will come to 
maturity. Sparrows are especially troublesome 
to Gooseberries, and bullfinches to Plums, 
Cherries, and Apples, and the next month will 
be their period of greatest activity. Hedges of 
White Thom really well kept are a speciality in 
Kent; by repeated clipping they get almost as 
thick as walls; the only way by which they can 
be kept in good condition for many years is 
keeping them clean at the base. At this time 
of the year about 2 feet on each side is lightly 
forked over ; all Couch Grass and other weeds 
are carefully picked out, and after that hoeing a 
few times during summer will keep the ground 
thus treated quite clean, and the hedge will 
grow right down close to the Soil. Roads and 
walks cut up with heavy carting in wet weather 
must now be levelled and rolled. In large fruit 
plantations the cross walks may be of Grass; 
ruch pathways for carrying the fruit to the main 
walks or roads answer exceedingly well, and look 
at all times neat and trim. In young planta¬ 
tions recently planted the work of putting in a 
row of Potatoes will now need attention ; a 
furrow made with a plough and the sets laid in 
answers well. Potatoes and fruit do well 
t"aether for the first year or two aftor planting. 
-J. G. M. 


a really good bearer and otherwise excellent Pea; 
but we have many more that are perhaps equal 
to it. Pride of the Market and Stratagem are 
both good where fl-feet stakes and plenty of room 
is no object; Telephone and Telegraph are like¬ 
wise two grand varieties. Broad Beans have 
now become an indispensable vegetable; eaten 
when about the size of large Peas, they are both 
delicate and delicious. Green Windsor and 
Mazagan are as yet the best; they are so easily 
satisfied, that they will succeed almost anywhere 
provided the soil is rich. Stretch the line on the 
ground proposed to be planted, and dibble the 
seed in on each side of it at from 6 inches to 
9 inches apart. Keep the hoe well at work 
amongst Lettuces and Cabbages, and, in fact, 
amongst all growing crops. I notice many in¬ 
quiries about Carrots going backwards rather 
than forward. I always use gas lime with soot 
and burnt refuse, and apply it to the land at the 
time of sowing, and wc have never any difficulty 
with our Carrot crop.—R. G. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


PLANTING OCT BULBS AFTER 
FLOWERING. 

At this time of year, when bulbs are being forced 
into flower for decorative purposes, it may not 
be inopportune to ask what becomes of all the 


home growth might make but a sorry display in 
competition with bulbs from Haarlem and other 
places famed for their growth, but have we given 
anything like the attention to bulbs which the 
Dutch growers do? No; in fact, it is only 
in the case of those who make certain classes 
of plants either a hobby or a study that the 
required attention is given. I need only refer 
to the Lily of the Valley as an example. Home¬ 
grown roots of this are now flowered in quan¬ 
tities, and of a size both as regards leaf and 
flower that has never been excelled by plants 
from imported bulbs. But even if we fail to 
grow bulbs for exhibition, that is no reason why 
we should not enjoy their lovely blossoms in our 
ordinary garden soil, and under the same con¬ 
ditions of culture as are common in the case of 
ordinary garden plants. Where one person makes 
exhibiting his aim hundreds grow plants simply 
for the enjoyment which they afford, either in 
the form of early cut flowers, or as decoi ativo 
plants for the conservatory and dwelling rooms. 
To these I would commend the following plan : 
As the bulbs cease flowering, harden them off, 
keeping them watered and tended as carefully 
as they were before they flowered. In April and 
May take them out to the mossy banks and 
sheltered comers of the semi-wild garden, or 
where choice shrubs are planted thinly, there 
dig large holes, fill them with rich soil, and plant 
the bulbs moderately deep ; give a good watcr- 


Winter DalTollU (Stembcrgla lutes and 3. angustifolia). 


Vegetables. 

Xow is a capital time for sowing a good quan¬ 
tity of Peas. I generally form miniature Celery 
trenches for their reception, and earth up by 
retting down the sides of the trench. When 
earthed they become level with the rest of the r 
"round. My special variety it/umpjps Sfundnll if-! 

r VjQv ylC 


bulbs that are imported, for if only a tithe of 
them were kept alive we should have more than 
sufficient for every purpose, yet except in gardens 
where the expenditure allows of imported bulbs 
being bought yearly, it cannot be said that we 
are surfeited with either Hyacinths, Tulips, 
Narcissi, Jonquils, Crocuses, or Scillas. The 
conviction is, therefore, forced upon us that in 
too many cases as soon as the flowering season 
is over the roots are thrown aside as worthless, 
yet it has been proved over and over again that 
if the foliage is carefully preserved the majority 
of bulbs will flower annually for years, while in 
the case of others they only require a season of 
rest to recruit their strength, and, with the ex¬ 
ception of those forced rapidly, or very far in 
advance of their natural season, there iB no 
reason why they should not flower for many 
years in succession, for, nnliko tropical plants, 
that require certain atmospheric conditions 
which it is impossible for us to give in our 


and leave them to perfect their foliage. A little 
top-dressing in autumn is all they will after¬ 
wards require, and they will send up yearly 
spikes of bloom, which, if not so large as the 
first produced under glass from imported bulbs, 
will nevertheless make a welcome addition to 
our list of hardy flowers. G. 


Winter Daffodil ( Stern bergia).—One of 
the few hardy flowers that enliven our borders 
in October and November is Sternbergia lutea, 
or Winter Daffodil, asit wascalled in Parkinson's 
time. It is a hardy perennial bulbous plant of 
the Amaryllis family; a native of Spain and 
other southern parts of Europe. The typical 
plant is fairly common in gardens, but tho 
narrow-leaved variety (angustifolia) is not often 
met with, and, moreover is a desirable plant. 
S. angustifolia differs from lutea not only in its 
narrow leaves and rather wider and brighter 

little later 


temperate climes, nearly all of these lovely | petals, but angustifolqi flowers... - - 

plants come to the greqfest perfection under a ] than lutea. It is peifedtly hardy and easily 
limntp similar t<j our Q'vn. True, our bulbs of 1 grown, best Ijt a, Jq<|ijc£ately rich, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 










GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


66 


[Apbil 7, 1883. 


moist soil, and flowers most satisfactorily when 
the roots have been allowed to remain for some 
years undisturbed in the same spot. It is in¬ 
creased readily by means of offsets. 


THE GARDEN FINK. 

The old-fashioned laced Pinks should be in every 
garden; they are easily propagated and easily 
grown. I find it more difficult to get the “ pip¬ 
ings " or cuttings to strike root in the south of 
England than I did in the south of Scotland. In 
the north I had no frames, handlights, or bell- 
glasses, and had to manage without them. Our 
plan was to choose a rainy day, as the pipings 
always did best when put in during a wet, dull 
period, and a place was chosen for them where 
they were shaded during the hottest part of the 
day, and, thus managed, I obtained ninety plants 
for every hundred cuttings put in. In the south 
of England I have been very successful with them 
by placing them in a gentle hotbed. When 
rooted, the young plants must be pricked out into 
store beds in the open air, where they soon form 
compact healthy plants, to be again planted out 
where they are to bloom in October. 

Fine blooming plants may also readily be ob¬ 
tained from seeds. These should be saved from 
the best laced flowers, and they can be easily 
obtained in warm favourable seasons like the 
present. The pods should be picked when they 
open a little at the top; if they remain on the 
plants a day or two after that the seeds fall out 
and are wasted. The seeds keep best in the pods 
in a dry place, but out of the reach of mice, 
which are very partial to them. Sow in April to 
flower the second season after sowing ; the seeds 
will vegetate best if sown in pots and placed in 
a frane, but the Pink is truly an open-air plant 
and may be raised both from slips and seeds 
without the aid of glass at all. 

The florists’ Pinks have all got red. rose, or 
purple lacing on a white ground. The early- 
flowering or forcing Pinks are valuable either for 
flowering out-of-doors or for forcing early in the 
season in pots. They are quite distinct in 
character from the others, and all of them are 
pretty as well as sweetly scented. I,a Blanche 
has pure white flowers which are produced in 
great abundance even on youn plants; the 
edges of the petals are smooth. '1 ere is another 
pure white variety not quite so double, but the 
petals are prettily fringed; it. is common in 
cottage gardens. Mrs. Moore and Mrs. l’ettifer 
are dwarf growing varieties with white flowers 
and dark centres. Another valuable type com¬ 
prises the varieties with rosy or reddish purple 
grounds, with a darker marking or lacing about 
the centres of the petals. Derby Day, Lord 
Lyons, Newmarket, and the old Anne Boleyn 
are the most distinct of this class. 

I generally propagate this section about the 
end of April or early in May. The very small 
side slips are the best; they form roots much 
more readily than the stout., pithy growths. 
These are propagated early because it is best to 
have good large plants for forcing, and sc early 
in the year they must be putin in a little bottom 
heat if it can be afforded; if not, I would not put 
in the cuttings until quite the end of May. The 
early propagated plants are now very large, and 
in two or three weeks they may be lifted and 
potted in rich compost. The plants should then 
be placed in a close frame until they are well 
established, when air should be freely admitted 
to them. The plants that are to flower in the 
open ground should be planted out any time 
during the month of September or early in 
October. They like deep rich soil, but will flower 
well in the poorest; the only difference is that 
the flowers will be much larger and fuller when 
they are liberally treated. J. D. 


and in a mixture of the two. They do well 
either in sun or in shade, provided they are not 
in a soil which gets parched np in summer, 
which they cannot endure. Still they have spe¬ 
cial antipathies to some soils, though I cannot 
say what they are. I was in a nursery garden 
near Derby lately, where the soil and drainage 
seemed to be perfect, and where everything does 
well except Hepaticas. Gentiana verp.a, for in¬ 
stance, was so rigorous that I mistook it. for G. 
acaulis. Dodecatheon Jeffreyanum, I thought, 
was a strong bunch of Orange Lilies just appear¬ 
ing through the ground, but the Hepaticas were 
only existing. 

Varieties —The fine single blue American 
Hepatica called H. angulosa is a stronger and 
more vigorous species than any European kind 
and increases faster, and is a beautifuljplant if 
slugs can be prevented from eating the buds. 
Of the old H. triloba as many as eight or ten 
single varieties are enumerated by nurserymen. 
As the species comes up freely from seed it is 
perhaps a wonder when Nature has made three 
distinct colours to start with that the variation 
of colour is not greater in cultivation. I have 
only seen four really distinct—white, pink 
(wrongly called red), blue, and purple, the latter 
known as H. Barlowi. The Hepatica improves 
by doubling. I have never seen or heard of 
more than two doubles, pink and blue, both of 
them brighter in colour than their singles. Of 
these the double pink has the strongest consti¬ 
tution of any of the species,and the double blue 
the weakest. The best plants of double blue 1 
have ever seen were growing in light, sandy soil, 
hut with a wet subsoil, in a garden at Bourne¬ 
mouth. I never heard where, or by whom, the 
double Hepaticas were raised, but gardeners 
will agree in wishing that the raiser had lived 
long enough to produce a double white. 

Propagating.— The kindest treatment of 
Hepaticas, and that which they like best, is to 
leave their roots undisturbed, but to give them 
at the beginning of every autumn a thin dress¬ 
ing of leaf-mould and finely sifted manure ; but 
as most people wish to increase their stock, the 
question arises as to the best time. Gardening 
books advise us to divide them as soon as the 
flowering is over. The writers probably know 
that their advice would not be followed if they 
advised dividing just when the flowering is 
beginning, which, I think, is a much better 
time; but at any time between October or 
March, if the weather is favourable, is better 
than any time between March and October, The 
new leaves begin to grow before the flowering is 
over, and the old leaves ought to be retained if 
the plant is healthy until the new ones, as it 
were, absorb them. Upon the healthy develop¬ 
ment of the new leaves depends the flowers of 
next year. Their growth is completed in a 
marvellously short space of time—generally 
before the end of April, and nothing ought to 
interrupt it. Again, if the plant is divided in 
summer, the leaves probably die, and the flower- 
buds are deprived of their shelter, which is most 
essential to them in winter. So much for 
dividing. In transplanting it must be remem¬ 
bered that perhaps no other plant has roots 
which extend so widely and so deeply in pro¬ 
portion to the show the plant makes above 
ground. Dig up a ball as large as you will, 
some stray bits of wiry root always appear out¬ 
side it. I said that Hepaticas grow readily from 
seed, but if the seed is stored it seldom germi¬ 
nates, and if sown at once it will not come up 
till the following spring. The seeds grow best 
when allowed to shed upon the crown of the 
plant, if covered as I advised with fine soil. 
They may be transplanted at any time, and with 
careful nursing become good plants in two 
years. C. W. D. 


HEPATICAS. 

Soil and drainage— The Hepatica is a 
flower that requires no special pleading to com¬ 
mend it. Everyone knows it, and wishes to have 
as many plants of it as he can. Where the soil 
and other conditions suit them they may be in¬ 
creased tolerably fast, but no plant is more fre¬ 
quently regretted as a failure. In this respect 
they resemble their near relations, the Christmas 
Roses, and I think that where one does well the 
other will. For some years Idespaired of the 
till I took to excessive draining and to growing 
them on rookeries and raised beds, and now they 
do very fairly in a variety of soils, for I have 


them growing jfijfcrcu^s loa 


!M|J 


moist peat, 


LOBELIAS FOR FLOWER BEDS. 
Where flower gardening with what are termed 
summer bedding plants is still followed the blue 
Lobelia is indispensable from the fact that it is 
nearly the only plant with really blue flowers 
that conforms to the requirements of a bedding 
plant. My experience is decidedly in favour of 
raising Lobelias from cuttings, for although seed¬ 
lings give less trouble and make a good display, 
they are as a rule but transient, and the plants 
are always more straggling than those raised 
from cuttings ; in fact, seedlings are frequently 
quite done by September—just the pleasantest 
time of the year in which to enjoy a flower 


garden. In order to make their display as last¬ 
ing; as possible, cuttings should be carefully pro 
pared and planted in deeply cultivated soil, and 
not allowed to suffer from drought; there need 
then be no fear of their failing before the frost 
of autumn cuts off the tenderer subjects, and so 
bring the display to an end. The mode we 
adopt is to keep a few dozens of small late-struck 
cuttings in pots during the summer in a partially 
shaded position, and to cut the heads of bloon, 
entirely off as fast as they are formed. H 
autumn they will be dense little tufts of healthy 
shoots. They may then be shifted into 5-itch 
pots, and wintered on a shelf near the glass in 3 
cold house. In February each plant will yield a 
hundred or more cuttings, or cuttings may be 
struck from the outdoor plants and wintered is 
the same way; some shallow pans answer well for 
this purpose,and sometimes we have cut the bloon 
off a few dozens of plants in the flower beds it 
September, and potted them up in Octcbe 
covered with healthy shoots, and they have done 
well. In taking cuttings we like to have supply 
enough to afford about two good batches it 
February. They are dibbled thickly into shallot. 
pans filled with light sandy soil, and placed mi 
brisk moist heat where they will be found to be 
rooted in about ten days and fit for transfeniri 
to a cooler pit until thoronghlv rooted, wbe: 
they may be potted off singly into 3-inch pots, 
or planted in boxes 3 inches apart each way. 4 
temperature of about 55° suits them well until 
rooted, when they may be transferred to cold 
frames and kept quite open as the days pi 
warmer in spring, protecting them securely 
against frost at night. As they push up towe 
shoots every one must be cut off, for, like otbe: 
bedding plants, every bloom made before plstl- 
ing is at the expense of the summer display, us 
with Lobelias the object, should be to get test 
little tufts of healthy growing shoots by fre¬ 
quent stopping. Little fear of a good disphr 
need then be apprehended; and as plants lit® 
cuttings do not make long straggling shoots like 
seedlings, they should be planted proportionally 
thick. There are many varieties ot tlx bice 
bedding Lobelia, and nearly every grower las 
his favourite sort, but I believe a good strain of 
speciosa, selected and kept true by cuttings,is 
as good as any. The difference in result is more 
attributable to treatment than to the variety. 
Speciosa is probably the parent of selected 
stocks that pass under various names. L. pumila, 
so useful in carpet bed arrangements, is nstorall; 
of a dense tufty habit of growth, but I prefer 1 
cuttings to seedlings of all the varieties I hare 
ever grown. J-6. 


PLANTS FOR SHADY POSUIOSS. 
The list of hardy plants suitable for grotrirp 
under the shade and drip of trees is, compara¬ 
tively speaking, very small and principally err- 
fined to those that are British. Amongst this 
useful class of plants the following ore those 
generally in use, several of which, though of a 
low trailing habit of growth, are admirably 
adapted for carpets for our larger woodland 
trees, viz., St. John’s-wort (Hypericum calyci- 
num). Periwinkles (Vinca major and minor', 
Butcher’s - broom (Ruscus aculeatus), Sp nl Fj 
Laurel and Mezereon (Daphne Lanreola am, 
Mezereum), and our common British Ivv (Hedera 
Helix). The St. John’s-wort, a beautiful dwait 
creeping plant, soon covers a considerable sur¬ 
face of ground and forms a dense evergreen 
mass, covered in summer with bright golden 
flowers. It is easily propagated by division ot 
the roots, and when planted in clumps 2 f«< 
apart these soon unite and form a dense Bias- 
Not only is the St. John’s-wort useful for flan'- 
ing beneath deciduous forest trees, butirrvaluab e 
for covering the base of walls where few otter 
plants could exist. Many are under the unjxes- 
sion that the St. .John’s-wort is injurious to tree* 
under which it is growing, and although case 
have occurred here in which trees, princip* 
Horse Chestnut, surrounded by this plan P® ' 
nally became unhealthy and ultimately ; - 
still I believe the cause of decline to be tra • 
able to another source than that under consiae 
tion. Periwinkles are similar in habit to 
St. John’s-wort; they are valued for their 
continued flowering and as evergreens a ap 
for growing in the shade. A very pleasing e . . 
is produced by having mixed patches ot 
winkle and St. John’s-wort, as in s” 111 ® 1 

contrast of co-triingled yellow on.. t> 




Apiul 7, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


67 


strikingly beautiful. The double and white- 
flowering varieties are very pretty, and make 
excellent rock plants. 

The Butcher's-broom is a fine glaucous green 
shrub, densely covered with sharp prickly leaves, 
and invaluable for planting in shady places; in¬ 
deed, in such positions it seems to be quite at 
home. Here it flowers and fruits freely beneath 
half standard Rhododendrons, where few other 
plants would exist, let alone succeed. The twigs 
of this shrub were formerly used by butchers for 
sweeping their blocks, hence the English name. 
A striking peculiarity about this plant is that 
the flowers are produced on the middle of the 
leaves, on the upper side, and when they first 
appear they are similar in size and shape to 
the head of a pin. The female flowers are suc¬ 
ceeded by pretty red berries. The broad-leaved 
Butcher's-broom (Ruscus Hypophyllnm) pro¬ 
duces its flowers on the under sides of the 
leaves, and its berries are smaller than those 
of R. aculeatus. 

The Spurge Laurel and Mezereon hare highly 
fragrant flowers. The former grows from 3 feet 
to 4 feet in height, always symmetrical in figure 
and useful as a stock on which to graft the rarer 
kinds. The Mezereon of our gardens is found 
wild in mountain woods in many parts of 
Europe, especially the middle and south, also 
frequently in various parts of England, but it 
was first introduced into this country before it 
was observed to be a native. It is much admired 
for its precocity and fragrance, and although 
most parts of the plant, especially the berries, 
are a powerful poison, yet it still remains a 
universal favourite in mosr gardens. 

Than our common British Ivy, though in some 
cases not desirable, few plants are better adapted 
for carpeting our larger woodland trees. The 
dark glaucous evergreen leaves, creeping habit 
of growth, and extreme hardiness renders this 
plant a particular favourite with most people. 
In many places it is. however, quite a nuisance, 
no end of trouble being taking to eradicate it 
from young plantations. A damp climate and 
maritime situation seem to foster the growth of 
Ivy, and in woods where it prevails tj a great 
extent its growth seems inimical to underwood 
generally. As an ornamental plant for covering 
bare walls or any unsightly garden object it has 
no equal, and it seems to luxuriate in almost 
any soil or situation. 

The above list includes only plants of dwarf 
habit; several others of more robust growth arc, 
however, equally applicable for planting in 
shady positions, the principal amongst which are 
Box, Aucuba, Privet, Rhododendron, Yew, Holly, 
evergreen Oak, and in situations not too confined 
the different kinds of Berberis and Laurel may 
also be successfully employed. A. D. W. 


Lily of the Valley. —The fitness of the 
Lily of the Valley for early flowering the second 
tear depends entirely on the way in which it is 
treated and the time of year when it is got into 
bloom, as plants that are not started to force till 
February are in a much better position for 
recovering their strength than others that have 
been subjected to heat at an earlier period, 
home time ago we had a number of pots that 
were forced annually and used for the em¬ 
bellishment of the greenhouse or conservatory, 
where they stood till the flowers faded, when 
they were removed to cold pits or frames where 
they were taken care of and encouriged to 
complete their growth and ripen off properly, 
points of the greatest importance, for if the 
leaves are not preserved in a fresh, healthy state 
the crowns do not attain sufficient strength and 
sire to form and throw up their blooms. If pots 
of Lily of the Valley are expected to do this 
yearly they must be managed in the manner 
referred to, and be liberally fed wilh liquid 
manure and top-dressings, but as they are so 
much less trouble planted out in beds or just 
close under the shady side of a wall, it is best 
to heat them in that way, as they can be dug 
up and forced in large clumps in boxes, or the 
fioevt crowns may be picked out and a dozen 
or so of them placed in a 6-inch or G-inch pot. 
Treated in this fashion they are quite equal to 
imported roots, that is, if well grown, but to 
get them fine they must have rich soil and lie 
replanted every three or four years. The course 
»e pursue is to have three beds, and every third 
year we take up one for farcing, when we,go 
over the ropta and pick opt all ,tlie sfri 



which are laid in and buried with soil to be 
drawn from as wanted. The others are then 
pulled apart and a fresh plantation made of 
them, which is done in this manner; We mark 
out abed 3 feet wide between our young Apple 
trees, and having skimmed out about 3 inches of 
soil and thrown it right and left, we put on a 
heavy coating of manure and slightly fork it in, 
and then distribute the roots regularly over the 
surface, after which the soil is returned to its 
former position to cover the crowns. A raking 


glass or some protection to prevent the seed, 
which is small, from being blown or washed 
awBy, and when the plants are large enough to 
handle, transplant into groups of half a dozen or 
so, where they are to remain in rich sandy soil. 
Last year I tried raising some in pots in a green¬ 
house, but the plants so treated were very in¬ 
ferior to those grown entirely in the border. In 
heavy retentive soils I think it would require 
good drainage in addition to the soil I have 
mentioned, as the young plants I had in pots 
seemed rather inclined to damp off. I may also 
add that the transplanted plants were finer than 
those left to bloom in the original seed patch, 
although the latter were well thinned out.— 
W. Addison, Hroxhourne. 

FoxgloveB.—The wild Foxglove of our 
hedgerows is a favourite and pleasing summer 
flower growing here and there singly or in clumps 
by the sides of the lanes, or in the woods ; but 
its decorative qualities are best seen when grow¬ 
ing in large masses. Wild Foxgloves seldom 
differ in colour; rarely is one seen that is Dot 
of the common red kind, and if one that is really 
distinct were found it probably would be torn 
from its roots and borne away in triumph. 
Garden varieties are not so circumscribed in this 
respect. In these the colours vary much, and 
include pure white, cream, rose, red, deep red, 
and other shades. The great charm, however, 
of the garden varieties lies in pretty throat 
makings, consisting of spots and blotchings of 
deep purple and maroon, and these, when seen in 
large flowers, make them resemble those of a 
Gloxinia; hence the name gloxinioides, applied 
to some finely spotted kinds. The garden plants 
are more robust, the stems stouter, and the 
flowers much larger than those of the wild kind; 
and, altogether, they make tiuly grand border 
flowers. The seed being small, it is best sown 
in pans or boxes under glass early in May. and 
when the young plants are well up they should 
be placed out-of-doors to get thoroughly 
hardened before finally planting out. Where 
planted in shrubbery borders it is well to make 


Foxgloves, Hare-bells, anti Solomon's Seal. 


down with a wooden rake completes the work and 
leaves all neat and tidy. The older beds we de¬ 
pend on for picking flowers from late, and in 
seasons when they escape injury from frost we 
obtain an abundant supply. We also have a 
narrow strip of these charming Lilies under a 
north wall, where they seem to hug the bricks as 
it were, and cling to them closely for the sake 
of the moisture they supply,—S. D. 

A fine annual (Campanula macrostyla). 
—Now that the time for sowing annuals is 
approaching I should like to call attention to 
the merits of this easily grown and very effective 
plant, which is by far the finest of the annual 
Campanulas, not only from its singular shape 
and conspicuous style, but from its delicate 
veining and colours, which latter vary from pale 
pink to deep purplish lilac. It is best grown 
entirely out-of-doors. Sow in fine light soil, 
quite half sand, cover lightly, using a hand¬ 


clumps of three plants, as they produce a finer 
effect than when set singly. Not unfrequently 
the Foxglove blooms two years in succession; 
j but in all cases it is well to sow a little seed 
annually. 

Single Dahlias. - The great popularity 
which these have attained to in so short a time 
is probably due to the influence of fashion on 
I the one hand, and to the fact that the double 
kinds are outdoor flowers only, whereas the 
single ones are so useful in a cut state. Then, 
again, it is found that in autumn, if frost will 
only keep off, they are fresh and full of flower 
when most tender flowering plants have quite 
lost their good looks. This is a grand point in 
their favour, and tells greatly with many who 
have a large extent of pleasure ground to furnish, 
and who are often obliged to bemoan its miserable 
aspect under the influence of heavy autumnal 
rains. Single Dahlias are easily raise! from 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 














68 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Apr.iL 7, 1883. 


seed, and it is urged in their favour that under 
good treatment they bloom the same year. Small 
growers will, however, find it more to their 
interest to sow in May and grow the young 
plants along into 24-inch pots, wintering them 
therein. Allowing them to start naturally they 
will be sure to grow strongly when planted out, 
and will bloom at an earlier date than plants 
sown early in the year.— John Cobnhill. 

The Scarlet Anemone.—No large garden 
should be without a goodly bed of this winter¬ 
blooming Anemone, for it is that as much as any 
hardy (lower we have. The bed should bo in a 
sheltered, warm, sunny place, so as to induce 
early bloom. I think a good bed of early-planted 
roots of this, or of any of the single florists 
kinds, would give as much bloom as would the 
contents of a hothouse during the winter months, 
whilst the cost would be but trifling. The foliage, 
too, is not without merit for decoration, as it is 
often elegantly cut, and is always pleasing. Beds 
of these Anemones once formed need little culti¬ 
vation for several years. The chief thing to do 
after the foliage has died off in the summer is to 
gently stir the surface, and then add some well- 
rotted manure and a little fine soil spread 
over that. As the tubers root near the surface, 
this top-dressing will give the beds ample feed¬ 
ing material, and assist annually in the produc¬ 
tion of fine blooms.—A. D. 

Tropseolum speoiosum.—I fully endorse 
4 ‘ G. E. T.'s ” remarks on the above, and I will 
just supplement them with a few hints on the 
planting and treatment of this plant, as there 
seems to be some difficulty experienced in its 
culture. Procure good fresh roots, and plant at! 
once ; any good loamy soil will suit them, but 
do not plant too deep—not more than 1£ inches. 
Lay the roots flat, and cover over with” a little 
lighter soil. Special care should be taken that 
the soil does not get too dry at any time, and as 
the young shoots appear they should be sup¬ 
ported by a trellis or stakes. I have seen it 
growing luxuriantly in various aspects, but if 
planted at the bottom of a south wall, or any- | 
where fully exposed to the sun, it is better to j 
slightly shade it until fully established.—R.L.C., j 
Edinburgh. 

The Widow flower.—It may perhaps 
give additional interest in the purple Scabious 1 
to be told that it is known in some places by the 
name of the Widow flower, also that the seed 
of that sweet flower was sent from France by 
Virginia, during her enforced absence, to her 
brother Paul, to adorn their joint garden in 
Mauritius, or Isle of France. This information 
we have from vSt. Pierre, the writer of the 
touching history of “ Paul and Virginia.”—A. G., 
Mid-Scotland. 

9517.-— Pansies In pots.— Pansies will 
take root freely in May, and bloom in autumn, 
as they bloom almost any time; we have had 
them blooming here all winter in the open i 
ground. If “ A. T. H. W.” has his selection to 
make yet, I would advise him to choose fancy in 
preference to show kinds, as they bloom more 
freely. I give the names of six, all of which are 
free bloomers and well adapted for framework. 
Mrs. E. H. Wood, mauve and purple; James 
Grieve, crimson; Lady Salisbury, white; Annette, 
yellow; Miss Anderson, lilac and white ; Mr. 
Iio bert, dark bronze. All the above are good 
varieties, although not the best for exhibi¬ 
tion. The best compost I have found for Pansies 
is turf and cow manure. I also give a liberal 
supply of cow manure in a liquid state.— Rox¬ 
burgh. 

9490.— Lilium virginal©.— Take all the 
bulblets that surround the parent bulb, and 
plant them in a box filled with a compost of rich 
loam and well-rotted cow manure, and a little 
sharp river or sea sand to give good drainage. 
Leaf-mould is good to mix with the above where 
it can be had. Let each bulblet have ample 
room to develop. Keep them uniformly moist, 
but not wet. Good drainage is indispensable. 
Next season the bulblets may be planted out 
into their permanent quarters.—G. C., Eccles. 

9500. — Lavender. — Where there is light, 
dry soil and a warm climate, Lavender cuttings 
readily strike if put pretty deeply in the open 
ground in April or May, or September. “ Knock- 
maroon ” will succeed if he will strike cuttings 
under a hand-glass or frame, and place a mat 
over the glass for three or four days after put- 
fipgthcm ip to exelnfle the HghWG. C\, Ecrfep, 

Digitized by GOOgle 


9481.— Culture of Gladioli.— The situa¬ 
tion should be open, but not too much exposed 
to violent winds, which will spoil the dowers, 
and care should be taken that the place where 
they are grown should 1* well drained, for al¬ 
though they like plenty of moisture, they are 
very impatient of any stagnant water about the 
roots. The compost should be a good friable 
loam, but they will succeed in common garden 
mould unless it be very heavy. The beds should be 
trenched three or four spits deep, and have plenty 
of well-rotted manure added. The bulbs should be 
planted in April, and a dry day should be chosen 
for the operation. The soil should be taken 
out separately for each bulb, and a little silver 
sand placed at the bottom. Each bulb should 
be covered 6 inches deep. The bulbs should be 
planted 9 inches apart each way. When the 
plants are about 1 foot high the beds should be 
top-dressed with well-decayed manure, and they 
should be neatly stalked. If the weather is dry, 
the beds should be well watered once a week. 
The following are a few of the best varieties : 
Jupiter, light red; Phoebus, fiery-red spotted; 
Ulysse, brilliant rose; Armide, white; Felix, 
crimson; Andanson, rose-carmine and white. 
—A. H. Davis, Carshalton. 


VEGETABLES. 


SPINACH AND ITS SUBSTITUTES. 
There are no fewer than four or five distinct 
plants, the leaves of which are occasionally used 
as Spinach, all being nearly equally delicious 
when properly cooked, viz., the three varieties of 
common Spinach (Round-leaved, Prickly, and 
Flanders), the New Zealand Spinach (Tetragonia 
expansa), the Mesembryanthemum edule, or 
Hottentot Fig, the Atriplex hortensis, or Giant 
Orache, and the Beta maritima, or Perpetual 
Spinach. 

Common Spinach.— The Round-leaved 
variety of this is less hardy than the Prickly and 
also more succulent, and consequently preferred 
for summer use. It is mostly sown in lines 
between other summer crops, such as Peas and 
Beans. It requires a rich, well-manured soil in 
order to induce it to develop its large and succu¬ 
lent leaves—the only part of the plant used. 
The seeds generally vegetate quickly, and as 
soon as the young plants are large enough to be 
handled they should be thinned out to a distance 
of 9 inches or 12 inches apart. During dry, 
warm weather and on light land, however, it is 
impossible to prevent the plants running pre¬ 
maturely to seed ; therefore it is necessary to 
make repeated successional sowings or have re¬ 
course to some of the other varieties named, 
such as the New Zealand sort. As soon as the 
Round-leaved sort has become seedy and unfit 
for use, it should at once, unless seed is desired, 
be cleared off to prevent the exhaustion of the 
soil. The Prickly variety, being very hardy, 
should be sown for winter use towards the end of 
August on deeply-dug, well-manured land. The 
seed should be sown in lines 18 inches apart and 
the plants thinned out to the same distance 
apart, as has already been recommended in the case 
of the Round-leaved or summer variety. It will 
then only require to be kept free from weeds. No 
amount of cold or frost will greatly affect this 
plant, but it is sometimes attacked at the root 
by a maggot, which soon produces unseemly bare 
patches. In order to as far as possible obviate 
this, a good portion of soot should be dug in 
along with the other manure, and repeated slight 
surface-dressings of soot may be occasionally 
given while the plants are young, which will 
also free them from slugs and other garden 
pests. 

New Zealand Spinach is altogether a 
different plant from the above, and forms an 
exceedingly useful culinary vegetable, indis¬ 
pensable, in fact, in dry summers in light land 
gardens. It furnishes a constant supply of 
Spinach throughout the summer months, and as 
regards quality it is considered by some to be 
even superior to any of the other varieties. It 
is, however, a tender plant, and succumbs to a 
very few degrees of frost. It should conse¬ 
quently be sown in heat about the beginning of 
April, potted singly in 5-inch pots, and planted 
out in the open air soon after the middle of 
May. In order to give every encouragement to 
so useful a plant a piece of ground should be 
selected for it well exposed to the sun. The 
soil should be thrown out on each side of the 


bed (which should be about 5 feet wide, and 
any convenient or desired length) to a depth 
of 2 feet or 2£ feet, and in the bottom of this 
trench some 18 inches or 2 feet of rich pig or 
stable-yard manure should be placed ; if not too 
much rotted, so much the better, as it will then 
be likely to give out a little warmth. When the 
excavated soil has been placed upon it, ajid when 
this has fairly settled down, the plants should 
be turned out upon it, placing them in the centre 
of the bed and 4 feet or 5 feet asundeT. A bed, 
say 15 yards or 20 yards long by 5 feet or 6 feet 
wide, will furnish an ample supply for almost 
any establishment; therefore, only a few plants 
will be likely to be required for even a large bed; 
and placing a hand-glass over each plant for a 
week or ten days after being planted will 
materially assist them in establishing themselves, 
and in producing abundance of their succulent 
leaves from the middle of June until the end of 
October, or until frost destroys them. It pro¬ 
duces seeds freely, and if the bed or portion of 
ground occupied by it during one season is left 
undisturbed until the following month of Msy 
abundance of self-sown plants will be found 
upon it, and the required number of these can 
be very readily transplanted to the newly formed 
beds, therefore, sowing the seeds annually in 
heat is not absolutely necessary. 

The Hottentot Fig (Mesembiyanthemun: 
edule), sometimes used as a substitute for 
Spinach, is in many respects similar to the New 
Zealand, and it is quite likely that similar treat¬ 
ment will suit it. The Giant Orache (Atriplex 
hortensis) attains a height of 6 feet or upwards 
it belongs to the same order as the Spinach, and 
produces large leaves, which form a good substi¬ 
tute for it, as do also several species of the 
genus Chenopodium, which, being annuals, may 
be sown in March or early in April, and the 
plants thinned out to the necessary distance 
apart. 

Perpetual or Beet Spinach. (Beta mari- 
tiraa) belongs also to the same family or order. 
It is possibly a better substitute for Spinach 
than the Orache or any of the Chenopodiums. Ii 
is a biennial, and if sown in April in lines, and 
properly thinned out and kept clean, it will pro¬ 
duce abundance of fine large leaves daring the 
ensuing summer and winter months, as well as 
during the early months of the second summer, 
when it will probably begin to show symptoms 
of running to seed. I may, however, add that 
although the two last-named plants form fairly 
good substitutes for true Spinach,still the latter, 
in its several varieties, together with the New 
Zealand Spinach, are always, when they can be 
had, preferred to them. 1‘. G. 


Succession Peas in small gardens — 

A cottager to whom I occasionally gave seeds 
drew my attention the other day to a system 
that I consider worth the notice of those similarly 
situated. Ilis plot is small comparatively, as 
most gardens are ; so in order to have a constant 
succession of Peas he manures the space in t ended 
heavily in November, and sows an early kind, 
say some of the numerous round varieties—as 
being the hardiest,—1 inch asunder. Then a 
month later he dibbles in Challenger in the same 
row, and in March he dibbles in Stratagem. The 
one manuring and the one row of stakes is 
sufficient; time and labour is saved, and the 
three different varieties come in for use one after 
the other. This is worth the notice, when 
properly done, of small suburban garden occu¬ 
piers.—W. J. M. 

The Underground Onion.— This is a 
very useful kind of Onion for the cottager to 
grow, as by liberal culture enormous yields ma}' 
be obtained therefrom. The soil in which tho*e 
are grown should be deep and rich, and the 
bulbs should be planted in rows 12 inches apart 
each way, as early in the season as the state of 
the weather and soil will permit. A good way 
is to place the bulbs at a proper distance apart 
on the level ground, and then cover them over 
with light leaf-mould or rotten manure, after 
which earth up the rows with soil in the same 
way as is done with Potatoes. By this means 
large clusters of bulbs will be produced round 
the old root, and they will be much larger than 
bulbs that remain uncovered. The only draw¬ 
back, however, to this plan is, the bulbs will 
not keep long; therefore, where keeping roots 
are requiredp-it is best (o leave them exposed tq 



April 7, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


60 


the air and sun instead of covering them over, 
but in this case abundance of manure water 
must be given during dry weather, or the pro¬ 
duce will be but small. Thus treated, however, 
they keep for almost any length of time in 
a sound condition. 

The Tree Onion— This kind of Onion is 
well adapted to small gardens, inasmuch as it 
may be successfully grown in land unsuited 
to the ordinary kinds, and, moreover, pig manure, 
which is usually the principal manure obtainable 
in cottage gardens, is better suited to its culture 
than any other manure. The seed should be sown 
now on a warm border, and early in May the 
plants should be transplanted into drills 12 inches 
asunder and 4 inches or 5 inches deep. Previous 
to planting, however, the drills should be nearly 
tilled up with manure, which should be slightly 
covered with fine soil. The plants should then 
be carefully taken up and planted firmly in the 
drills 10 inches apart, taking care to bury the 
bulbs only just deep enough to allow of the 
roots being covered. After planting a good 
soaking of water should be given during the 
summer, the ground should be kept clear of 
weeds, and occasionally' the plants may receive 
a good dose of manure water at the roots. When 
ripe the bulbs may be pulled up, dried, and 
stored away in the same manner as other Onions. 
-S. 

Surface-planted Potatoes.— For some 
years I have seen Potatoes planted within 
2 inches of the surface and earthed up at the 
time when they were planted. Thus treated 
they have invariably produced a finer crop, of 
better quality, and at least a fortnight earlier 
than those planted at the usnal depth of 6 inches 
or 8 inches. The method adopted was to draw 
a line with a hoe 2 inches deep, and in this to 
insert the sets, which were covered np in the 
usual way. When they are about 4 inches in 
height another earthing up is given them. In 
wet and tenacious soils, where Potatoes have 
been grown side by side under both systems 
the surface-planted ones have yielded nearly 
double the quantity that the others did, and 
much freer from disease. Those who have not 
tried this system will do well to try a few on it 
this year. —J. Kiddell, Wentworth. 

9430.—Mushrooms and Cucumbers — 

Towards the end of September last I spawned a 
Cucumber frame just as the Cucumbers were 
going off. After the Cucumbers had done bear¬ 
ing, I cleared off the haulm and left the bed 
just as it was, keeping the lights on. For the 
last two months I have been gathering fine large 
Mushrooms, about two cuttings a week, and 
about a couple of pounds each cutting. The 
bed has not had a drop of water. Had the 
weather been very severe, I should have covered 
the frame with some mats. I expect I should be 
able to keep the bed on bearing for another 
month or two by giving it a watering with tepid 
water, but I shall want the frame for Cucumbers. 

1 yesterday cut a Mushroom 9 inches across and 

2 feet round.—K. T. B. 

9515.—Keeping vegetables in winter. 

—The only safe way of keeping Potatoes and 
Onions during winter is to take them np when 
ripe, dry them well in the sun, and store them 
in a dry dark room or cellar, out of the reach of 
frost. Salsify is best left in the ground, and 
(ing np when wanted. It should be protected 
bv throwing loose stable litter about it to keep 
off hard frosts.—6. C., i'ecles. 

950S.—Tomato culture.—1 have always found It 
best to raise the plants from Beed each fcason. If the old 
plants nre kept they will give a lot of trouble, and will 
breed a lot of insects —A. II. Davis, Car.halton, 


Best forms of greenhouses.— Having 
read with interest an article on the above subject 
by “ B. C. R.,’’ I am rather surprised he has not 
gone more fully into the system of glazing. 
About two years since I had a new lean-to vinery 
built and was strongly recommended to use the 
“Simplex ” system. I obtained two estimates 
from two separate carpenters, the one on the old 
system of sashes and putty, and the other the 
“Simplex.'’ There was nearly 25 per cent 
difference in the amount, the “ Simplex " being 
the cheaper. 1 had the vinery built on that 
principleand am very much pleased with it; there 
are many advantages too numerous for me to 
mention. Since this has been built I have made 


lurtelf four largo Cticqmhcp^Jights and 

Digitized by GO 


n *>mp 

gle 


lights to hang on a wall to protect fruit trees.— 
H. W. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 

(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

9490.—Lilium virginal©.—In reply to 
“ Lilium’s” query respecting the above, I may 
say that he ought to have repotted the bulb of 
L. auratum virginale last October, or as soon 
after as possible—that is, as soon as the stem 
had died down—instead of leaving it until the 
bulb had started growing again. The best way 
to treat the bulb now that the stem has been 
broken off would be to let it remain in the same 
pot, and to be very careful not to over-water it, 
just keeping the soil moist. With the main 
stem broken off, the bulb will be as it were 
at rest, and if too much water be given it will 
most probably cause the bulb to rot away; but 
by keeping the soil moderately dry the bulb will 
most likely send up a fresh stem, but it will not 
be as strong as the first stem would have been. 
The weak small off-shoots or bulbs would have 
been best planted in a small pot by themselves, 
and grown on; they would make first-class 
blooming bulbs in the course of two or three 
years. I should advise “ Lilium " to always re¬ 
pot his bulbs during October, if the stems have 
died down, for if put off later they begin to send 
out fresh roots from the base of the bulb, which 
get broken and damaged during the repotting, 
which must materially weaken the capabilities 
of the bulb.— P. Rainford, Wigan . 

9492.— Rose election of 1882.—I have 
now much pleasure in giving the result of the 
election as regards Teas and Noisettes. Sixty- 
four electors took part—thirty-nine amateurs 
and twenty-five nurserymen. The following 
were the selected twenty :— 


No. of 

[ ^ No. of 

No. votes. 

No. votes. 

1 Catherine Mermet.. 

64 

10 .Jean Ducher 

52 

2 Mardchal Kiel 

W 

11 Perle do J ardins .. 

50 

3 Souvenir d’un Amt 

02 

12 Rubens 

50 

4 Marie Van Houtte.. 

61 

l Belle Lyonnaise 
equal. Souvenir de Faul 
( Neron 

47 

5 Souvenir d’Ellse .. 

60 

» r 1 Devoniensia 58 

° ( Climbing do. 2 

7 Madame Lambard .. 

1 jjj 

47 

69 

15 Comtesse de Nadaillac43 

16 Madame Willermoz 43 

8 Niphetos 

58 

17 Anna Ollivier 

42 

i Madame Bravy 31 ) 

) 

18 Innocenti Pirola .. 

36 

Alba rosea .. 1* I 
y ’i Josephine Malton 3| 

-54 

19 Caroline Kuster 

30 

20 Gloire de Dijon 

29 

( .Madame de Berio11J 

1 



* These Roses are considered “ too much alike,” and 
voters were allowed only to give a vote to one of them. 

It should be understood that exhibition varieties 
were asked for, and this will explain the posi¬ 
tions arrived at.— William Walters, Burton- 
on-Trent. 

9541.— Begonias for exhibition.— The 

following are good Begonias for exhibition— 
Doubles: Blanche Jean Pierre, white ; Madame 
de Dumast, cream colour; Comtesse H. de Choi- 
sent, cream, rose colour when expanding, very 
good; Pieonimflora, deep rose, drooping, enor¬ 
mous flowers ; Glorie de Nancy, dark rose, one of 
the best; M. Drouet, magenta; Marie Bouchet, 
dark red. Singles: Heine Blanche or Mrs. 
Laing, both good whites—Reine the best habit, 
and Mrs. Laing, best blossom; Golden Nugget 
(Hare of Sittingbourne), the best yellow I know; 
Mrs. Robert Whyte, pink; Exoniensis, orange- 
salmon ; J. W. Ferrand, carmine; General Wood 
or A. G. Soames, very dark, approaching purple. 
—Heath End. 

9491.—Earth-closet manure —“ Subscriber ” need 
only spread the closet manure on the land, and then dig 
it in, and it will be found to be a useful fertiliser for al¬ 
most any kind of crop, without the addition of either 
salt or soot. Soot is a rich fertiliser itself, but salt makes 
the soil damp.—G. C., Eccles. 

9522.— Planting Cauliflowers.—Carter's Mont 
Blanc Cauliflower should be planted not leas than 18 
inches to 2 feet apart every way if the plants must 
develop into large heads. Land is never wasted by 
giving every individual plant plenty of room.—G. C., 
Eccles. 

9494.— Stopping and pinching.— Stopping and 
pinching are practically one and the Barue thing. To 
pinch off the end of a runner or shoot with the forefinger 
and thumb, is to stop it, as when the end of a shoot is 

E inched off it ceases to grow in that direction, and so it 
stopped.—G. C., Eccles. 

9509.—Manure water.—The liquid manure from 
the stable will not be too strong for Roses in the open 
garden if used in moderation, and only thrown on the 
top of the soil a little way from the Rose stems. Rosea 
are fond of rich food.—G. C. t Eccles. 

9518.—Spa eand for lawns.—For potting plants 
sea sand mixed with soil is excellent, and is regularly 
used for this purpose. It may also he safely used for a 
lawn,—G. c.j Ectfes, ' 


9371.— Tropceolum speclosum — This grows 
beautifully at Buckden-inWharfedale, Yorkshire, also 
very well uear Derby, both places many miles from the 
sea.—Guo. B. 

9478.—Greens for north border.—I havo found 
Asparagus Kale, Curled Kale, and Cottager’s Kale do 
very well In such a position.—A. J. M. 


Pseudo bulbs of Orchids.— B .—Ought these 
to be removed when dono flowering? [No; unless they 
are quite dead.] 

Plants in bedrooms. — A. B. C.— We question 
whether such powerfully scented plants as Hyacinths 
could be considered healthful in sickrooms, but ordinary 
plants in moderation we should think would do no harm. 
As, however, your doctor advised you not to have them, 
it would be best to only Introduce them to the room for a 
few hours during the day. 

Berniaria glabra.— C. T. — This is the smooth¬ 
leaved Rupture-wort, a British plant found on the shores 
of Cornwall, Suffolk, and Lincoln. It may be procured 
from any good nursery. 

Hollyhocks.— Enquirer. — See our advertisement 
columns. 

nitite.—We know of no plant named Truncketas.- 

Malmaison .—It is a pretty colour and well worth grow¬ 
ing.- AIJred Ilundcll. — Your communication in the 

form Bent is an advertisement, and we could only admit 

it as such.-3f arguerite .—Send twelve stumps, and ask 

for Chrysanthemum fniteseent.—— J. L. U. «/.—If you 
will kindly state clearly and concisely what glass you 
have, how heated, <fec., we will insert the question, slid 
no doubt some of our readers will be able to advise you 
what to grow in it. But the question in its present 
form is not understandable. 

Edging .—From any hardy plant nursery. Apply to 
some of the nurserymen who advertise hardy plants in 

our columns.- Albyina .—We cannot forward letters to 

our correspondents. Any reasonable questions you think 
well to send to the paper shall be inserted and answered. 

- E. T., Wigan, and F. J. L .—We do not know who 

supplies them ready made; but they could, no doubt, 

be easily got to order at any ironmongers.- E. T. B.— 

If you state the difficulty you are in in the shape of 
concise questions (separate) we will insert them, and, no 
doubt they will get well answered. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents.—AO communica¬ 
tions for insertion should oe clearly and concisely written 
oil one ride of the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the Publisher, The name 
and address of the sender is required , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should alwavs bear the number and title of the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity <\r 
GARDENING going to press a considerable time before the 
day of publication, it is not possible to insert queries aiul 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

9513.—Coloured glass for conservatory.—Some 
years ago I saw at the house of a friend what appeared 
to me to be a stained glass picture, quite transparent, 
but if I remember rightly I was told It was only a cheap 
sort of transfer from some paper, and varnished I think. 
I have a small conservatory which is only a few yards 
away frorr the turnpike road, and it occurs to me that if 
I could procure a few of these pictures, if they are to bo 
had cheaply, for the lower panes facing tho road, they 
would effectually screen the interior, and at the same 
time rather add to the general appearance of the con¬ 
servatory inside. If anyone can give me any information 
on the subject I shall be obliged.— Conservatory. 

9544.—Seal eon fruit trees.—Will someone kindly 
suggest what I may try to destroy brown scale, which is 
ruining my Pear trees? I have painted all round the bark 
with a mixture of train oil two parts and spirit of tar 
and turpentine one part each. I have also tried paraffin 
oil, Fowler's Insecticide (exactly as recommended), and 
Fowler’s mixed with sulphur and black aoap, but to no 

f urposo. Of course, there are lots of so-called cures, but 
want a tried and proved one. In return, I shall be glad 
to tell you of some of my successful experiments on other 
garden pests.—M. K. N. Graham. 

9545.—Reducing bones.—I am desirous of utilising 
as manure, if possible, the small quantity of bones which 
accumulate in my house. I have heard that caustic pot¬ 
ash sprinkled on bones reduces them to powder in a short 
time, and that wood ashes have the same effect if used 
plentifully, but take longer. As the subject may be of 
interest to others besides myself, perhaps some reader 
could kindly supply a useful hint or two how to proceed. 

I should feel obliged if I could be informed where to 
obtain caustic potash, and also nitrate of soda.—A mateur 
Gardener. 

9546.—Fungus on Portugal Laurel.—I have a 
Portugal Laurel in my garden in a midland county, somo 
of the upper leaves of which began to turn white, as if 
covered with mildew r , the year before last. Last year 
the whiteness spread, and this winter it looks very bad, 
and many of the white leaves have shrivelled up and 
turned brown. I should be much obliged for informa¬ 
tion as to the treatment to bo pursued. The tree is olil 
and has had a great deal of old wood taken out of it. Tho 
soil is sandy and the air pure.— C. A. L. 

9547.—Heating frames by flues.-I havo a frame 
about 18 feet by 6 feet heated by a brick flue 8 inches by 
7 inches, but it does not answer very well, ns the fire 
requires almost constant attention or it soon goea out. 
Will someone kindly tell me how such a flue should best 
be constructed, the size of the grate required, and all 
particulars. I fancy I have seen Cucumbers and Melons 
grown in such a frame, the requisite bottom heat being 
obtained from the flue. I should like tp use mine fop 
.IQCl] aPVWnnMfilW II | ||l|sx|c 


70 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Aim 7, 1883. 


9548. — New land.—T have had some Grass land dug | 
up In November and December last year, and I find that 
on turning it over now for sowing and planting, the 
grass turns up in some places as green as when first 
turned in. What am I to do in planting Potatoes? 
Would it do turned over to about half the depth origi¬ 
nally dug. for of course if brought to the top it will grow 
again, beside? looking untidy and weedy ? What is the 
usual course under such circumstances ’—Perplexed. 

9549. — Chrysanthemum cuttintjs. — Having 
noticed contradictory opinions about taking off Chrysan¬ 
themum cuttings, I should like to ask Is it best to take the 
cuttings from growth springing out of the old wood or 
from what I call the suckers, which spring up so plenti¬ 
fully from the roots ? I have been told that cuttings from 
the suckers are no good by some people, and others say 
they take theirs from these so-called suckers. Which is 
right ’—Questioner. 

9550. — Crickets in plant houses —My plant stove 
is overrun with cricfee s. They have destroyed many 
valuable plants and Orchids. Can anyone tell me how to 
get rid of them ? I have tried beetle paste, phosphorus, 
and paraffin, but without any good result. I have also 
had th* house entirely cleared out and every available 
hole fill in with cement.—A Subscriber. 

9551. —Annuals for northern county.—will any 
reader give me a list of hardy annuals which, if sown this 
spring in a border, will bloom in a northern county 
daring August or the two following months till winter, 
also of some creepers (annuals) for blooming at the same 
time, which would look well on a red brick wall?— 
Novice. 

9552. —Hardiness of Gladioli.—Will some reader 
kindly inform me if the following named varieties of 
Gladioli are perfectly hardy, as I have had them planted 
out since before the frost came (about a month since) 
partly protected : Belle Gabriellc, Norma, Ophir, Philidas, 
Meyerbeer, Semiramis. —Yorkshire. 

9663.— Seeds for Argentine.- Can anyone give me 
a list of seeds (for kitchen garden aud flower girden) 
suitable for the Argentine Republic, naming the best 
time for sending them out to that country? Would 
Prickly Comfrey grow wtll there? and can it be raised 
from seed?—L a LLAVE. 

9554. —Orchids from Honduras.-1 have a case of 
Orchids coming from the Britbh Honduras and should be 
glad of any hints as to the necessary treatment. 1 have 
a span-roofed house heated, aud a sunk pit unheated, 
fully exposed to every blink of sun. I grew Cucumbers 
In the house from April to October.—W. M. Graham. 

9555. —Grubs in Onions—I have been lately dig- 
ging up a piece of garden in which I have be* n told it is 
impossible to grow Onions, owing to the wireworm and 
other insects destroying them. As I am but an amateur, 
a reply, stating the best u.eihod of destroying the grubs 
without injuring the Onions, would oblige.—G. 11. B. 

9556— Sulphate of ammonia.— Can any reader 
inform me wnether the above would do to apply as a 
liquid manure for soft-wooded plants, such as Geraniums, 
Fuchsias, &c., and if so, what proportion should be used 
per gallon of water?—W. C. 

9557.—Creeper for wall.—Would some reader 
kindly give me the name, and time to plant, of a rapid 
creeper to cover an unsightly wall in a yard ? It would 
t-t no sun. If a quick-growing evergreen could be had 
would prefer it.—R. A. D. 

or58.—Ferns for exhibition.-Will " j. c. B *’ or 
some Fern-loving reader kindly give the names of nix of 
the best greenhouse Ferns for exhibition next July, m.d 
from whom they may be purchased?— An Admikku. k 
Ferns. 


9571. —Seml-cJouble Geraniums.—Would some 
one kindly give the names of a few of the best of the 
above ?—New Beginner. 

9572. - Pea with coloured blossoms.—Can any 
reader tell me where the edible Pea, w hich bears blossoms 
like those of the 8 tree t Pea, can be obtained.—8. L. G. 

9573 — Gardenias. — When should Gardenias be 
potted, and in what soil ? and will they endure fumigs- 
tion with other plants ?— Ignoramus. 

9674.—Pruning Standard Rose trees.— Would 
some reader give me a few simple directions for pruning 
Standard Rose trees.—1 gnotes. 

9575. —Tin postal boxes.—Will someone oblige by 
giving me addresses of makers of thin tin boxes used for 
sending plants and cuttings by post?-F. C. 

9576. _Hare-foot Fern.—What treatment does this 
Fern require ?—REX. 

9577. —Eucalyptus gflobulus—What treatment 
does this require in a pot in an invalid's room ? 

9678.— Propagating Genistas. —How is this best 

done? 


POULTRY. 

Fowls In gardens.— “ Y. Z.” must ascer¬ 
tain to whom the fowls and pigeons belong that 
trespass in his garden. He should then send to 
the owner a written warning to the effect that 
if the nuisance be not stopped he shall summon 
him for damages in the county court. Fowls 
are admitted to be a great nuisance, and they 
do much damage in a garden, but I think it 
would be difficult to assess the amount of 
damage that pigeons do in a garden, as it would 
be so small. No poison must be thrown on the 
land as this is strictly illegal.—G. C., Eccles. 

Turkeys with swollen eyes— Our 

turkeys last year when about a month old were 
affiicted with swollen heads, and a kind of 
watery discharge came from their eyes and 
noses. They scarcely see to go about, and a 
number of them died. The old ones are now in 
the same condition. Will someone suggest the 
cause and cure?—II. T. E. 

Wild ducks. — I have a pair of these birds, 
and want to know when the ducks should begin 
to lay? If the eggs are removed will she lay 
; gain, and after what interval? Will she con¬ 
tinue to lay if the eggs are removed, and would 
this affect her next year ? As my object is to 
obtain eggs lather than ducklings, when is the 
latest time she should be allowed to sit ? Are 
they good mothers, and do they sit after being 
deprived of their first batch of eggs ? Mine will 
not eat house scraps, although chopped fine and 
mixed into a paste with “ toppings,” why is this ? 
They will starve in order to get me to let them 
have maize.—C. A. J. 


BEES. 


Robbing and fighting will be sure to 
ensue, and when found to be taking place the 
entrance of the hive attacked must be contracted 
so that one bee only can enter at a time, the in¬ 
mates can thereby better defend themselves, and 
this will probably stop the attack if it has not 
been goiDg on very long; sometimes, however, it 
is necessary to stop the entrance entirely until 
sunset, taking care to provide sufficient venti¬ 
lation. Some bar-frame hives are provided with 
zigzag entrance slides which, when contracted, 
are an effectual check to robbing, giving the bees 
a great advantage over their adversaries. Weak 
stocks generally suffer most from pillage, the 
usual indication of which is a good deal of ex¬ 
citement about the hive door, the robbers being 
distinguished from the others by their flying 
rapidly round the hive and hovering in front of 
the entrance before alighting, and on doing so 
a fierce combat is seen to take place between 
them and the sentinels that guaid the entrance, 
when they mostly fall fightiDg to the ground, 
where many dead and dying bees will be found. 
A strong stock will sometimes attack and de¬ 
stroy several weak ones aDd transfer all their 
stores to tbeir own hive, this is one great reason 
why all stocks should be kept stroDg. 

Feeders. —There are vaiious ways of feeding 
bees, and a great variety of feeders have been 
introduced, but for rapid feeding a very good 
and simple way is to bore a hole about two 
inches in diameter in a small square block of 
w ood about 1£ inches thick, fix a piece of per¬ 
forated zinc over the hole, place the block of 
wood (with the perforated zinc at the bottom) 
over the hole in the top of the hive; put the feed¬ 
ing syrup into a common wide-mouthed pickle 
bottle, covering the mouth with a pieceof muflit 
doubled, and insert t he mouth of the bottle in 
the block of wood, allowing it to rest on t he per¬ 
forated zinc; but for stimulative feeding to 
encourage brood rearing, when food must be 
given in small quantities, a more scientific affair 
is necessary, consisting of a glass jar with ground 
edge covered with a tin cap, which is inverted 
on a w ooden block prepared to receive it, the tin 
top is pierced on one side only, with five boles; 
the wooden block contains a diaphragm, one 
half of which is composed of perforated zinc and 
the other of plain zinc, when the pierced fide of 
the tin top i9 over the perforated side of the fine 
diaphragm, the bees have access to all the holes, 
but by eimply turning the bottle round tbe 
supply of food may be reduced or cut off alto¬ 
gether, the index pin attached to the tin cap 
showing at a glance how many holes the bees 
have access to, the wooden block being set over 
a hole in the quilt of the bar-frame hive 

Boxnorth. S. S. G. 


9559 —Violets for winter.—Will someone kindly 
give full particulars of how to grow violets in pot - for 
winter blooming, and say which aie the best double and 
single kinds for the purpose ?—E. C. 

9560.— Weeds on tennis ground.— Could anyone 
tell n.e what is the be9t cure for weeds on a red ash tennis 
trround? They are mostly weeds with very long roots, 
called, I believe, Couch Grass.—T ennis Player. 

0561.— Geranium e terns rotting.— What is the 
cause of the stems of my Geraniums going black and 
rotten ? I have lost several old plants as well as cuttings. 
—Silver Stork.; 

9562. — Thom hedge.— I have made a short hedge of 
young Quicks or Thorns about 2 feet high, and planted 
singly 0 inches apart. What should I do in order to 
make it thick close to the ground?—T horn. 

9563. — Gardeners in New Zealand —Will some¬ 
one give me reliable information respecting New Z-alaml, 
and the amount of salary gardeners may get there ?— 
Gardener. 

0564.— Pruning Pear trees.— Would someone give 
me a few simple directions for pniuing a Jargonelle Pear 
trained on a wall ? The tree was plsnted November l»8l, 
and has not boen pruned since.—I gnotus. 

9565. — Melons on stages.—Can I grow Melons on 
the top of a stage in the same way as “R. 0." says he 
does Cucumbers? If so. what is the minimum of soil 
required, and the best mixture?—S wardeston. 

9566. -Show Pansies—wm Mr. J. G. Paul, Paisley, 
now favour me with the names of eighteen of what he 
considers the very best show Pansies, excluding 1883 
sorts?—A uld Reekie No. 2. 

9567. —Covering for Tulips. — What is the best 
material for protecting Tulipa, and how should it be 
used ? I want to cover two beds with a walk between. — 
J. C. 

95f8 — Mobs Roses —Will some reader give the 
names of two best Moss Roses for exhibition, red and 
white; how to he planted, and what kind of manure is 
best?—B eginner. 

9569. —Edging tiles —I would be glad if “ A. D.” 
would kindly inform me where such bricks as he recom¬ 
mends can be procured?— K. L. M. 

9570. —Vegetables for shady ground. — Will 
some reader advise ine as to the best vegetables to grow 
on ground more or less-shaded hy garden walls?— Cephas. 

* Co gle 


SEASONABLE NOTES. 

The severe weather experienced during the 
greater part of March kept the bees within their 
hives, and prevented them gathering in what 
supply of food the Crocus and other spring 
flowers would have afforded them, and which 
they really much needed, as the mildness of the 
past winter kept them on the alert, and caused 
them to consume a large quantity of their stores. 
Many stocks will in consequence be found to 
be very light, and in a critical state now; it 
therefore becomes necessary to again urge the 
importance of 

Feeding, both to preserve the lives of the 
bees and to assist in brood raising, for there will 
now be little to be gathered till the fruit trees 
are in blossom, and colonies having much 
maturing broods if not kept up by gentle feed¬ 
ing, will be thrown back more in a few days 
than they will be able to regain in as many 
weeks. The food given now must be thinner 
than that given in the autumn, as a greater 
quantity of water is now used by the bees in the 
feeding of the rapidly developing brood. To 
those colonies whose stores are running short it 
is best to feed a few pounds rapidly at first, 
afterwards gently to stimulate brood raising,the 
amount given in the latter case being regulated 
by feeding through a greater or less number of 
holes in the feeding stage. If the bees have 
access to the syrup through more than two or 
three holes at a time, too much food will be 
taken, which will be stored in the combs in¬ 
stead of being consumed as wanted. In feeding, 
great care should be taken not to spill or smear 
the syrup about the outside of the hive or leave 
the feeder uncovered, or the neighbouring bees 
will get a scent of the food, and 


BIRDS. 

Cattery losing Its feathers.—" C.M. S” 

will find that the white heart of a Brussel* 
Sprout for the canary is much better than water¬ 
cress at Ibis time of the year. Sherry is not 
good for diarrhoea or losing of feathers. Loree- 
ness of feathers sometimes proceeds from the 
canary parasite.—A mateur. 

- I think “ 0. M. 8." will find the Dost 

frequent cause is that the birds and cafes mc 
infested with a small insect. The following 
directions I have found a perfect cure: Eray 
evening before the bird roosts take a camel e 
hair pencil and paint over the perches with 
essence of lemon; place under the perches at the 
bottom of the cage small white saucers or any¬ 
thing that will hold water. In the morning yon 
will find on the surface of the water s® a 
insects, the largest red, paler as they are smaller, 
and some like transparent skin; these should be 
burnt. By using a magnifying glass yon wi 
see how numerous they are. Occasionally when 
and fumigate the cage (of course first re m0 ™8 
the bird); fumigate by putting the cage in >“• 
with a lid and burning stick brimstone in i • 
Feed with canary seed, bread and milk tres 
every morning, and occasionally give watercre • 
The feathers will begin to show in a few ' iee ^ 
and the bird will become perfectly tame.- 
Constaxt Reader. 

German canaries —I have often 
stated that German canaries lose their - s 
after the first or second year. I should Hi 
if some one experienced with these birds Wl _ 
give their opinion as to the truth of tins, 
also state the cause, if known, and the rem . • 

fc Wc rt V OF II I iwfMC at 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. V. APRIL 14, 1883. No. 214. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Continued from page Gl.) 

Seaside Planting:. 

In seaside gardening the first and most impor¬ 
tant thing is shelter from the force of the fierce 
sea blast, and fortunately there are trees and 
shrubs in sufficient numbers for all purposes. 
The experienced planter finds no difficulty in 
making a selection for any position he may be 
called upon to plant. The first thing to be done 
is to thoroughly prepare the site by trenching 
and deepening the soil. It often happens in 
such positions the soil is shallow and inferior, 
and, if possible, this should be deepened and 
improved. In making alterations it may be pos¬ 
sible, by a little variation of surface, to deepen 
the side of the garden that is most exposed, or to 
raise a mound against the wind. When this can 
be done, the creation of shelter will be a com¬ 
paratively easy task. 

Assuming that on the side from whence the 
cold wind comes we have raised a mound having 
an easy natural outline, on the outer edge plant a 
deep band of the common Gorse, next might come 
a mixture of the Wych Elm and the Austrian Pine. 
The Elms should be pruned, so as to make them 
flense of habit; and as they grow, both the 
Elms and the Pines will require thinning, as thick 
plant ing in exposed places is necessary at first to 
keep out the wind, but if the plants are allowed 
to injure each other by stealing each other’s light 
and air, the planter’s object will be frustrated. 
Those having charge of plantations of trees and 
shrubs have need of constant watchfulness, and 
especially is this the case in planting for shelter. 
Having created a long belt or wall of shrubs and 
trees, many things may be planted inside it that 
it would have been useless to plant before the 
shelter had been raised. Nearly all the common 
and many of the choice things may be planted 
by the seaside if well sheltered by first planting 
a substantial belt or mound of proved hardy 
shrubs. Hollies, Ivies, Boxes, Barberries, Lau- 
rustines, Arbutus, Aucubas, Magnolias, Escal- 
lonias, Euonymus, Evergreen Oaks, Japanese 
Privets, Tamarisk, and Laurels may be safely 
planted. The Cedar of Lebanon and the silver 
Mount Atlas Cedar, and many of the smaller 
Conifers may occupy sheltered positions. 

The Chilian Pine (Araucaria imbricata) only 
feels really at home in the maritime districts, 
and the Wellingtonia usually thrives better by 
the seaside than in the midlands. All the Cy¬ 
presses, but specially Cupressus macrocarpa, 
may be planted. Among deciduous things a 
very large selection might be made. The Alders, 
Barberries, Thorns, Laburnums, Dogwoods, Deut- 
zias, Lilacs, Spindle Trees (Euonymus), and 
on the Bouth and west coasts the Hydrangeas, 
grow to a large size, and flower abundantly. 
Leycesteria formosa does well near the sea, and 
the Syringa or Mock Orange, the Magnolias, the 
Sumachs, Ribes, and the Robinias, or Acacias, 
thrive in the sea air, only the wind breaks and 
splinters the branches of the latter so badly in 
consequence of their brittle nature. Many of 
the Spiraeas will succeed, and the Elders, in¬ 
cluding the variegated varieties, may stand in 
the front rank. In sheltered nooks by the sea¬ 
side many things will grow better and with 
greater luxuriance than inland, in consequence of 
the greater mildness of climate near to a body 
of water that never freezes. A short time ago, 
when at Hastings, I saw a house within a few 
yards of the sea covered completely with Mag¬ 
nolia grandiflora in the rudest health ; another 
only a few yards away was covered with the 
blue Passion flowers, and with good shelter from 
the winds seaside gardening becomes compara¬ 
tively easy. But if living shelters must be 
raised, that work should be done, if possible, 
several years in advance of the general planting, 
and I would strongly urge the necessity of a 
thorough preparation of the site to create depth 
of soil, and a free use of the knife for a few 
years after planting, to thicken the growth to 
Icep out the wind. 

Decorating the Lawn. 

It is only of late years that the phrase “gar¬ 
dening on the grass ” hag come4pto use, but the 

Digitized by GOOgle 


principle advocated has been in use many years, 
in fact, it has been practised with the happiest 
results in many places in retired parts of the 
country. People with artistic ideas and feelings, 
probably centuries ago, conceived the idea of 
allowing the lawn and shrubbery to meet and 
blend without any harsh dividing lines. The 
grass was permitted to grow up to the stems of the 
shrubs, and hide all the bare earth between them 
with a bright green carpet. Then came the want 
of a little colour to impart life to the masses of 
green, and so great clusters of Daffodils were 
planted on the grass in front on the salient points 
and angles. Other things, such as Pmonies, 
Fuchsias, Roses, &c., naturally followed, and so 
the idea grew, and a most excellent idea it was; 
and one might easily conceive that with the 
spread of Schools of Art this idea should be still 
futher developed, but it is not new—indeed, 
few things are. 

I was a short time ago looking round an old 
garden of the bygone times, where gardening on 
the grass had been practised at least more than 
fifty years ago. The place has been unoccupied 
for many years, so the modern bedding-out gar- 
deuer has been kept out, and though the grounds 
are in a rough, unkempt condition, yet in the 
spring time the Snowdrops and Daffodils form¬ 
ing great clusters, and the old China Roses 
standing about in irregular patches, are a glori¬ 
ous sight, and are in fact the only redeeming 
features of the place, because they are the only 
things which seem to have benefited by neglect. 
To dispose these groups tastefully requires much 
thought, as when patches of colour are strewn 
too liberally the effect sought may not bo ob¬ 
tained through being overdone. Picturesque 
grouping accords best with this kind of decora¬ 
tion, rather than formality or a striving after 
symmetry; and the background of shrubs, 
their height and breadth, with the extent of the 
lawn, must all be taken into consideration in the 
arrangement of these groups of flowers on the 
grass, so that all may blend and harmonise 
together. Snowdrops may be dibbled in 
Kie turf; and the Golden Primrose and the 
Wood Anemone may occupy positions amid 
the shrubs. And what a chance is here offered 
for making an effective display amid the 
shrnbs of tiie many beautiful Lilies from Cali¬ 
fornia and elsewhere. The Lily of the Valley 
may also be utilised to form a carpet in the sub¬ 
dued light of the spaces between the trees and 
shrubs just within the margins. Some of the 
strong-growing hardy Ferns may be grouped in 
the nooks and corners, and the Celandine tree 
(ISocconia cordata), the Giant Knotweed (Poly¬ 
gonum cuspidatum), and other plants of stately 
habit may find suitable positions for displaying 
their noble proportions. The Pampas and other 
Grasses, and in sheltered nooks some of the or¬ 
namental Bamboos, may be planted for creating 
variety of foliage. This phase of gardening is 
calculated to give much pleasure to all thinking 
people, because it opens up such a field for 
change and variety. Not only in the disposition 
of the plants, but also in the treatment of the 
surface of the ground, by creating artificial un¬ 
dulations, taking advantage ot the hillocks and 
hollows for planting those things which by their 
habit of growth produce an enhanced effect in 
such positions. 

Sweet-scented Flowers. 

The idea of a garden of sweet-scented 
flowers is an old one, but it is none the worse 
for being old; and those of my readers who 
have followed me thus far in this work will have 
discovered that one of my anxieties is to provide 
or suggest an opening for the employment in 
gardening of every order of mind. Though glare 
and glitter has until lately so much abounded, 
it is not because there are not plenty of ma¬ 
terials to furnish gardens to suit those whose 
tastes are quiet and refined. The garden of 
sweet-scented flowers shonld not be of formal 
design, as many of the sweetest flowers, snch as 
the Honeysuckle, the Jasmine, the Virgin's 
Bower, and the Rose do not show forth all their 
beauty when restricted and confined. 

The climbing plants should have arches to 
clothe, and poles or pillars or the stems of trees 


to climb up. We do not all admire the same 
flowers, and the fragrance of some flowers is too 
powerful for delicate nerved people, but there 
are so many things to select from, all may bo 
suited. The garden of scented flowers may be 
only a small plot in a back yard, or it may be a 
single feature in a grand garden many acres in 
extent; it may include trees and shrubs, or it 
may be confined to the loveliest flowers, snch as 
Musk, Mignonette, and Pinks, but in every 
phase of it there will be room for climbing 
plants. The following list includes most of 
the best known fragrant flowers that are well- 
adapted for open air culture ;— 

Trees and shrubs will include the Limes, 
Thorns, Laburnums, flowering Almonds, Bar¬ 
berries, Magnolias, Double Cherries, Portugal 
Laurels, Japanese Privets, flowering Currants, 
Azaleas, Rhododendrons, double blossomed Furze, 
Lilacs, Philadelphus (Mock Orange), Brooms, 
Spiraeas, Sweet Briers, Kalmias, Daphnes, Sweet 
Bay, Cistus, Laurustines, Honeysuckles, Roses 
(especially the old-fashioned Roses sncli as the 
Provence, Boursault, &c.), Jasmines, Wistaria 
sinensis, and Chimonanthes fragrans. 

Among the hardy flowers which all shonld 
plant are the following: Lavender in great 
clumps, Rosemary, Hyssop, Southernwood, Car¬ 
nations, Picotees and Pinks, Sweet Sultans, 
Sweet Scabious, Musk, Mignonette, Stocks, and 
Wallflowers, including the Night Scented Stock. 
Sweet Peas in abundance should be planted in 
succession, that is to say, early in the spring and 
again in April; on warm soils Sweet Peas may 
withadvantagebeplantedin autumn. Sweet Alys- 
sum, Lilies of various kinds, not forgetting the 
old white Candidum, Hyacinths including the 
Musk-scented Hyacinths, Narcissus, Lily of the 
Valley, (Dictamnus fraxinclla). Snowdrops, Vio¬ 
lets, Water Lilies,if a place can be made for them, 
should have a home in the garden of sweet- 
scented flowers, as should also the Water Haw¬ 
thorn (Aponogeton distachyon), the Mints and 
Thymes, Tussilago fragrans (Winter Heliotrope) 
should also be planted in large patches. There 
are many exotics which can be planted early in 
summer, such as the Heliotrope, the sweet- 
scented Pelargonium, the Verbena, &c. As re¬ 
gards their arrangement some things look best 
in mixture, and others in separate groups. Musk 
and Mignonette form a nice groundwork to taller 
growing plants such as Roses. In old-fashioned 
gardens Musk is often found Ailing out-of-the- 
way corners where it is not often disturbed, and 
very sweet and nice ft is to come all at once 
upon a patch of Musk and Provence Roses about 
the end of June on a bright snnny morning. 
Carnations and Pinks may occur in good sized 
patches, as the foliage in a mass has a nice 
effect in winter. The preparation of the beds 
and borders must be well attended to before 
planting and then with an annual top-dressing 
many of the plants may remain undisturbed 
for years. The garden of fragrance will not be 
costly to keep. Weeds must, of course, be kept 
down, and the surface be stirred frequently with 
the hoe. Patches of annuals and biennials may 
be sown to fill up any vacancies that, there may 
be at any time. People who have not much 
time for gardening will find this kind of garden 
suit them better than if arranged more elabo¬ 
rately. E. Hobday. 


ROSES. 


A FEW WORDS ON ROSES. 

I READ “ J. D.’s” paper on Roses, which appeared 
on March 24, with much interest, and, perhaps, 
I may be allowed to point out, that I think the 
article calculated to stir up enmity between the 
florist and garden decorator. Now, surely, no 
such enmity should exist. The specialist and he 
who loves to see artistically decorated gardens 
work hand in hand, or more correctly the former 
to the hand of the latter. The large choice of 
beautiful flowers and plants, from which the 
decorator can 6elect those suitable, are in great 
measure due to the specialist, who devotes him¬ 
self to one or a few kinds of plants and raises 
new varieties and multiplies those that are good. 
Granted that in the case of Roses specialists 






72 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[April 14, 1883. 


have for years devoted themselves to raising a 
race unsuitable for garden decoration, doubtless 
by-and-by, and I think before long, we shall see 
a new group of specialists devoting themselves 
to the garden Rose. “ J. D ” accuses nursery¬ 
men of hindering the distribution of garden 
Roses on their own roots. I do not think the 
nurserymen are to blame. “J. D.” strikes the 
true note in his opening sentence, where he 
speaks of the need for gardeners comparing 
notes and stating their requirements. Let 
nurserymen receive a sufficient number of en¬ 
quiries for own-root garden Roses, and we shall 
have them in plenty. For example, the enquiry 
for own-root Roses is already bearing fruit, for 
a number of weeks Cranston Sc Co.’s advertise¬ 
ment in this paper has had in extra large type 
“ Roses on own roots." 

The fact is, we have all been dazzled by the 
beauty of the blooms of the Hybrid 1'erpetual 
Rose, whose development is within the lifetime 
of many of us, and we are only now beginning to 
learn that its capabilities are limited, and that 
it is useless for growing as bushes. Now, letters 
such as that of “ J. D.” are of great service, and 
will bring this before gardeners and amateurs 
who are struggling despondingly with their 
Hybrid Perpetuals and know not what to do. A 
man becomes possessed of a garden, wishes to 
have Roses, and orders a dozen from a nursery¬ 
man. If he is a thoughtful man he procures a 
treatise on the Rose, and, owing to present liter- 
ature on the subject, gets a book treating of 
the cultivation of the Rose for cut blooms only. 
He naturally thinks that if he gives his plants 
the good culture therein set forth that he will 
have a quantity of good blooms; but the best 
cultivator in the world, on the rules given, can¬ 
not do this; for there is one thing that this 
treatise does not tell him, and that is the few 
blooms, and still fewer good blooms, that he will 
get off his dozen plants. Converse with the 
prizetakers of even third-rate provincial shows, 
and they will tell you that they require from thirty 
to fifty plants for one Rose exhibited; in other 
words, that to have a dozen show blooms on a 
given day, you must have at least 100 plants. 
The purchaser is disappointed in his plants, but 
this is not the fault of the nurseryman, it is the 
foolish hopes unintentionally raised by the 
treatise which he has read. 

Perhaps “J. D.” underrates the number of 
those who grow florists’ (lowers up to show mark. 
I never exhibited a flower, feeling no inclination 
so to do, but still to me the great pleasure of 
garden and greenhouse is the growing florists’ 
flowers up to show form, and trying to raise new 
varieties of merit. Hut although I never exhibit, 
I am grateful to those who take the trouble to 
do so; some of my happiest moments have been 
spent opposite a bench of cut blooms, eagerly 
taking notes ; and although my own pleasure is 
got in specialist work, I duly delight in an 
artistic garden, and hail with pleasure eman¬ 
cipation from the thraldom of the bedding-out 
system, towards which emancipation “ J. D.” 
has done good work. There is a garden which 
I often pass, that in the season is a blaze of 
alba Ro3es, scenting the air all round. Many a 
time I have stopped and looked, and remember¬ 
ing the few blooms just beginning to come on 
my own close pruned H.-P.’s., have asked myself 
am I on the right track ? But I always come to 
the conclusion, that granting the beauty of a 
garden lit up with free blooming Roses, I my¬ 
self would rather work to get one good bloom of, 
say, Charles Lefebvre than an acre of such as 
these. When I have more room than I need for 
H.-P.’s., I shall grow garden Roses in quantity, 
llut what man feeling as I do, can have enough 
room for H.-P.’s? As Canon Hole exclaims, “If 
1 had Nottinghamshire full of Roses, I should 
desire Derbyshire for a budding ground.” Doubt¬ 
less the show rules f-or florists’ flowers are arbi¬ 
trary, and often exclude flowers more beautiful 
than tii 066 admitted. There must be some rules 
to judge by, but much might be done by creating 
new classes. Better still, wh*y should not those 
who devote themselves to garden and conserva¬ 
tory decoration hold special exhibitions, which 
might of themselves be big lessons in floral and 
plant decoration, and where there would be no 
need for the ugly tables set out with stiff cut 
blooms, for which I make with all speed upon 
entering a show. 

I am at one with “ J. D.” in liking own-root 
Roses, and think that lie underrates the quality 
of blooms to hcrltot from thcril, and overrates 


the time required before you can cut blooms. 
I have had good blooms from very young plants, 
and never hesitate to closely prune a healthy 
young Rose on its own roots ; indeed, I have 
got to look upon own-root Roses in general as 
having much better constitutions than those 
budded on other stocks. It is doubtful if nur¬ 
serymen will ever take to retailing rooted 
suckers, as this method of propagation is too 
uncertain; and it is doubtful if there will ever 
be much demand for large established plants, 
all the tendency at present being the other way. 
A few years ago we could only buy choice plants 
for garden or greenhouse in a more or less 
established state, but now by means of cuttings 
it is no great exaggeration to say that garden 
and greenhouse can be furnished for pence, 
which ten }’ears ago would have cost pounds. 
“ J. D.’’ must Iiave had exceptionally unlucky 
experience in buying budded Roses. I have no 
experience in bought standards, as I always buy 
dwarfs on the Manetti, because I can get the 
varieties I wish cheaper in that way than any 
other, and I have always admired the careful and 
excellent manner in which the majority of them 
have been budded close to the roots; and the 
roots, in my experience, are well handled, for I 
rarely have any trouble from suckers. Several 
writers in Gardening have, it seems to me, 


lattice window would seem to be at least as good 
as a small square-paned one. No one, I hope, 
is more fully alive than myself to the fact that 
no amount of architectural beauty can make np 
for an unhealthy house, but these cottager, I 
hope, may unite all sanitary excellencies wiib. 
at all events, some amount of artistic taste. Tin 
designs include trellis work, so that theereeper* 
will not have to be nailed to the walls. Mvob¬ 
ject in writing was principally to see whether 
anyone would refer me to any practical work on 
the laving out of cottage gardens.— M. A. 
Cantab. 


OUTDOOR PLANT8. 


Star of Bethlehem (Omithogalum Dm 
bellatum). — This is a popular garden plant 
growing from G inches to 12 inches high. Its 
flowers which are produced in early summer arr 
satiny white inside and gTeen striped with white 
outside, arranged in a cluster on loDg stalks. The 
flowers have the peculiarity of opening about 
eleven o'clock in the morning and closing at 
three o’clock in the afternoon. The bulbs are 
Tear shaped and white, and will grow in&rr 
ordinary garden soil. 

Ooproama B^ueriana varlegata - 

This is an evergreen greenhouse shrub with a 
bushy trailing habit .if 
growt h and foliagerichly 
variegated-bright green 
and cream colour. It 
is hardier than mat 
kinds of summer bed¬ 
ding plants, ami well de¬ 
serves a foremost place 
amongst them. It has 
not yet become very 
popular, probably owing 
to the difficulty ap¬ 
posed to exist with re¬ 
gard to its propagation,a 
difficulty soon overcome 
when the cuttings ore 
made of new grturtb 
and inserted in saucers 
of sand, which should 
be kept saturated with 
water and placed in i 
close moist temperature 
of 75°. Under such con¬ 
ditions they root in less 
than a week, when they 
require potting in sandy 
loam and replacing in 
heat till the roots have 
got hold of the new soil, 
soil, when ordinary cold 
frame treatment suits 
them perfectly. They 
can be planted out with 
safety any time after 
the middle of May, the 
soil in which they do 
best being moderately 
rich sandy loam. Owing 
to the distinctnes 11 of 
the variegation and the 
ease with which the 
growth is regulated, tlii s 
New Zealand shrub 



Star of Bethlehem (Omithogalum urn bellatum). 


much exaggerated the difficulty of dist inguish¬ 
ing the suckers of the stock from those 
of the scion. Colour, foliage, and thorns 
point out the intruder, and if there is any 
doubt it is easily set at rest by carefully re¬ 
moving the soil, and seeing whether the shoot 
starts from above or below the junct ion of stock 
and scion. S. 


Designs for cottage gardens.— I am 

obliged by “ A. D.’s ” letter on the subject of 
gardens to my proposed cottages, but he is quite 
in error in supposing that the scheme partakes 
in any way of enthusiasm or aestheticism. My 
desire and intention is firstly and chiefly to give 
the labourers comfortable homes, and it is for 
this very reason that I have chosen to have cot¬ 
tages in the Elizabethan style, because I feel 
sure that this style most easily lends itself to con¬ 
venience as well as ornament in all classes of 
buildings, and as beauty and ugliness are eq ually 
cheap 1 prefer the former. As regards lattice 
panes, they are, in my opinion, far more beautiful 
than squares of glass, and as the object of a win¬ 
dow is simply to admit light and air, a good-sized 


one of the best plants we 
have for forming divisional lines in bedsthat 
are to be planted with dark-coloured foliage*! or 
flowering plants, and it is equally suitable for 
edgings to large beds or to encircle lines of dark 
Lobelias, Ageratums, or Violas, and it has no 
rival when used as a central plant in small 
panels of dark-leaved Alternanthera*. 

Portulacas.— Of all annuals that can be 
grown out-of-doors 1 know of none more beautiful 
than Portulacas ; their rich colours and the free 
dom with which they flower when under favour¬ 
able conditions render them well worth special 
attention. Anyone who has a narrow, dry 
border or small flower bed similarly circnm 
stanced may grow these beautiful plants to per¬ 
fection with a minimum amount of trouble. 
Seeds of them are offered for .‘ale by mast of 
our seedsmen in mixed packets, and also in 
separate colours; but I prefer to have each 
colour separate and mix them myself. I find 
the simplest way to raise a stock of plants is to 
sow seeds in small pots. I prepare a number of 
3-inch pots, sow a few seeds in each, and then 
place them in a warm house. Early in April is a 
good time to sow the seed. After being sown, 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Afril 14, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


73 


water must be given sparingly until the young 
plants appear above the soil, and even then damp 
is a greater enemy to them than drought; careful 
watering is therefore necessary. About the middle 
of May they may be taken to a cold pit or frame 
to be hardened off like other bedding plants. 
The next thing is to select a position for them. 
This being done, a suitable compost must be 
prepared for them. As they are not deep-rooting 
plants the depth need not be more than 6 inches. 
The compost should consist of equal quantities of 
light garden soil, old mortar, leaf-soil, and a 
pood sprinkling of sand, all sifted through a 
coarse sieve. Early in June the plants may be 
turned out of their pots without being disturbed, 
and placed about 5 inches apart, which will be 
wide enough to ensure the ground being covered. 
A little water should be given at the time of 
planting to settle the soil about their roots, and 
they must also have some during the summer, 
but they do not want nearly so much water as 
most other plants.—J. C. C. 

11531.—Phlox Drummondi.-I have found 
this a most useful and ornamental annual, both 
as regards its abundant and continuous bloom, 
and the pure and brilliant colours of its flowers, 
and one that always repays a little extra care 
bestowed on its cnlr.ivarion. I commenced with 
a dozen plants which I got from a friend who 
had raised them in a hotbed frame, and they 
M-enied to suit the soil and exposure of my 
garden so well, that I was induced to try to raise 
them myself in a cold frame, and I have 
succeeded perfectly, althongh they are some¬ 
what later in coming into flower than those raised 
in heat. The seed is sown early in April, if the 
weather is not too cold, in finely sifted soil, and 
when the seedlings will bear handling they are 
lifted with the trowel and replanted separately 
about 2 inches apart. Sometimes in May they 
are ready to be planted out in the bed in which they 
are to flower, and they are gradually hardened by 
leaving the sa*liof the frame off during the day, 
and latterly during the night as well. The bed 
is dug in February, when it gets a moderate 
supply of old farmyard manure, and it is allowed 
to lie in a rough state till the time for planting 
arrives. It is then raked smooth, and the young 
plants are planted G inches apart with a small 
trowel, which I prefer to a wooden dibbler. To 
encourage a strong growth they should be kept 
moist at first, and receive protection from the 
attacks of worms and slugs. When they have 
grown about 6 inches long they should be pegged 
down with piece* of bent wire, and be conducted 
along the ground in such a way as to cover as 
much of the surface as possible. I should sup¬ 
pose that on a hot, dry soil a liberal supply of 
liquid manure would be required, but in a clay 
soil with a northern exposure it is better to 
depend on the manure put in when the bed was 
dug, unless the summer should happen to be an 
unusually dry one. The bloom lasts till the 
plants are killed with the cold.—P. R. 

- The seed should be sown in a gentle heat 

in March or April. When the seedlings are an 
inch or so in height, they should be potted off 
immediately, as it ruins the plants to remain 
crowded after they are well up. About the 
middle of June they should be transferred 
to the border and planted about 0 inches or 10 
inches apart. The Phlox will flower continu¬ 
ously all through the summer. The following 
are some of the best varieties : alba, pure white; 
Heynholdi, a splendid scarlet; atrococcinea, a 
deep scarlet; Queen Victoria, rosy purple ; Leo¬ 
pold!, pink and white. The above should be 
planted according to colour.—A. H. Davis, Car- 
*hulton. 

- The time for sowing this annual has 

now arrived, and “ Silver Stork ” should sow the 
teed in a pan or box, placing it in a frame, and 
gradually hardening the plants off by exposure 
to the open air. On good soil in well cultivated 
condition put out the seedlings about 6 inches 
3 part, water until rooted, and keep the bed free 
from weeds, and stir the surface to promote 
growth. Regulate the shoots by pegging them 
<iown evenly over the surface with wooden pegs 
f-r hair-pins until they begin to flower; then let 
Tp.em grow naturally. Tick off the old flower 
beads to prevent seed-bearing, as this exhausts 
the plants quickly. Water freely in dry weather, 
and give liquid manure about once a week ; this 
beautiful annual will then continue to flower 
freely the whole season.—J am^s Groom, Qos- 

^ Digitized b GCK glC 


9488.— Plants and seeds for borders. 

—The situation is favourable to the growth of 
annuals, bedding plants, and hardy flowers of 
many kinds. Violas and Pansies would be sure 
to do well, as tbev do not care so much for a 
maximum of sunlight, lasting much longer in 
beauty, and seldom dying off where they are 
screened from the sun during some portion of 
the day. Tho soil should be well turned over 
and broken, so that it becomes sweet, when 
hardy annuals, such as Saponaria, Nemophila, 
Godetia, Clarkia, annual tricolor Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, Collinsia, &c., may at once be sown in 
patches, eventually leaving three plants to¬ 
gether. Later on Asters, Phlox Drummondi, 
and Ten-week Stocks which have been raised 
under glass may be planted, and bedding plants 
of all kinds may be employed at the proper time. 
Seedling l'ansies, Violas, and Christmas Roses 
may be planted now, but hardy flowers gene¬ 
rally are best planted late in October. We would 
try Daisies, Pinks, Primroses, Polyanthuses, 
hardy Fuchsias, Snowdrops, Crocuses, Daffo¬ 
dils of kinds, Tulips, Triteleia uniflora. Anemone 
japonica, apennina, coronaria, and falgcns, 
Myosotis, I’yrethrums, Wallflowers, Spirsea Fili- 
pendula, Tiger and Orange and white Lilies, 
summer-blooming Chrysanthemums.Colum bines, 
double Rocket, Monarda did/ma. Coreopsis 
lauceolata, Campanula carpatica and persicifolia 
alba, and China and other Roses. The above is 
by no means an exhaustive list, but comprises 
some of the very best and most easily cultivated 
of hardy flowers.—J. C., By fleet. 

9533.—Single Dahlias. —There is no diffi¬ 
culty in flowering seedlings of single Dahlias the 
first year, in fact, they can be truly termed 
annuals, for, with the convenience of heatedglass 
st ructures, the seed may be sown in February and 
fine plants ready for planting out in May will be 
the result, and iD good soil seedlings will attain 
large proportions, and flower abundantly from 
August to October, and as seedlings are not 
only interesting but very useful, there is little 
doubt but that the single Dahlia will for some time 
at least continue to be raised in large quantities 
from seed. Old strong roots will flower earliest, 
for if started in gentle heat they may be grown 
on nearly to the flowering state before planting 
out, but the interest attaching to a batch of 
seedlings, watching the blossoms open, to note 
if they are superior to existing sorts, more than 
compensates for a little delay in flowering.—J. 
Groom, Bantu. 

- Dahlias from seed sown in February 

will flower this year. If the plants are strong 
plant out about June in a stiff and well-manured 
loam. The Dahlia is a gross feeder, and the 
richer the soil the better will be the flowers. A 
shovelful or two of manure should be placed 
under each plant. As soon as the plants begin 
to grow, the leading and ,side-shoots should be 
staked out. The plants should be well watered 
in dry weather. When the foliage becomes 
black in autumn after flowering has ceased the 
stems should be cut off about 5 inches from the 
ground, the roots should be lifted and placed in 
a ccol place free from frost, and examined occa¬ 
sionally to prevent, decay. If any is discovered 
the affected part should be cut off.—A. H. Davis, 
Carshalton. 

9526.— Chrysanthemums for out-of- 
doors. —The most suitable time to plant out 
cuttings of Chrysanthemums is about the end of 
April. When the Chrysanthemum is grown in 
the garden it should never be stopped. The 
following are some of the best:— Incurred: 
Beethoven, lleverley, Fingal, Gloria Mundi, 
Guernsey Nugget, Lord Derby, Golden John 
Salter, Princess of Wales. Bettered ; Alma, 
Christine, Dr. Sharp, Progne, Sam Slick, White 
Christine. Ancmone-flan-ered: Emperor, Gluck, 
Mrs. Tethers, Sunflower, Virginale. Pom pone*: 
Adonis, Aigle d'Or, IL'lcne, Salomon, Mrs. Tur¬ 
ner, Rose Trovenna. Japanese: Dr. Masters, 
Giant., James Salter, Red Dragon, The Mikado, 
Wizard.— A. H. Davis, Carshalton. 

9510.— Marigolds for show.— It is not 
stated in t his query wbat are the kinds of Mari¬ 
golds alluded to, but we presume they are of the 
striped French section, as these are almost 
exclusively the favoured for exhibition. The first 
consideration is to secure seed of a first-class 
striped strain; the next is to sow at once in 
shallow pans or pots and in gentle heat to induce 
rapid germination, for there is no time to lose if 
flowers are needed for show during July. The 


soil should be fairly good but not too rich, as 
that may but develop coarseness in the mark¬ 
ings. If the plants were dibbled up singly into 
small pots that they might be turned out strong 
and without disturbing the roots so much the 
better. The French kinds grow very densely and 
need some occasional thinning of the branches. 
The Africans grow more erect and will thrive 
best on rich soil, producing grand double flowers. 
—D. 

9523,— Geraniums not blooming.— 

" Hittite ” says his Geraniums that were planted 
in the open garden “ made a profusion of foliage 
but very little flower,” though they were planted 
in a " sunny situation.” Then he tells us that he 
watered them with a “ hose during the hot days of 
summer." Now, in this last sentence he gives ns 
the secret of his ill-success. The fact is, in our 
humid climate the Geranium requires no water¬ 
ing when once it is properly rooted in the open 
air. The Geranium hardly ever gets enough sun 
out of doors, and however dry the summer may 
be it is never too dry for it. The over-watering 
is the sole cause of failure.—G. C., Eccles. 

9514.—Gaillardias.—It is perfectly correct 
to sow seed of these annuals under glass in 
shallow boxes or in pans, and when the seedlings 
are about 2 inches in height they will need 
ample light and air daily to harden or mature 
them before being planted out into beds and 
borders. It is better to allow the plants to 
remain in the seed boxes until the spring is well 
advanced, as the harder and firmer the plants 
the safer will they be to transplant. If from 3 
inches to 4 inches in height and having good 
roots lift carefully out of the boxes, disturbing 
the roots as little as possible, and then either 
dibble out or transplant with a garden trowel.— 
D. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


9528.— Pruning Holly hedge.— With a 
hedge of Holly 12 feet in height, it is not re¬ 
markable if the bottom has become thin. Pro¬ 
bably the hedge has not been properly looked 
after, hence its inordinate height and its thin¬ 
ness below. It is, however, well to furnish a 
drastic remedy by cutting the head clean down 
to 6 feet in height, and cutting-in one side of 
the remainder only, but quite hard this season. 
After the pruning has been recovered from, the 
other side may be cat next year, and thus the 
fence will not be left quite bare for any time. 
The pruning should be done from the middle 
to the end of April, as most Evergreen trees 
make their chief annual growth in the month of 
May.—D. 

- “ H. M. S." may prune his Holly hedge 

any time in May. It is not considered a good 
thing to cut the leading shoot off a Holly. If 
the only object is to produce a bushy uDder- 
growth, I should advise thinning down both 
sides the hedge from top to bottom, which will 
have the desired effect. Give a good top-dressing 
of stable manure at once.—G. C., Eccles. 

-The present is the best time of the whole 

year forpruninghedges just before growth begins. 
As the hedge in question has been allowed to 
run up too high, to the detriment of the bottom 
shoots, it will be best to saw the main shoots off 
at the height required; then with a pair of 
shears or secateurs shorten the side branches. 
There is no plant, evergreen or deciduous, that 
makes so handsome a hedge as the Holly, pro¬ 
vided it is kept in good order. The main point 
to observe is to keep the top from rushing up too 
fast, or the lower branches will suffer. A seca¬ 
teur, or pair of strong pruning scissors, is better 
than shears for shortening the annual growths, 
as with them no leaves need be cut in halves. 
The Holly flourishes best in good strong soil, 
but will make a good hedge in light, sandy soil; 
in fact, about here it supersedes most other 
hedge shrubs, growing freely in the light 
gravelly soil of the district, and good hedges 
may be formed in very little time if plants that 
have been specially prepared by frequent re¬ 
moval are obtained ; for, althongl the Holly is 
a difficult plant to transplant when it has stood 
many years in one spot, there is not the slightest 
danger when they are annually transplanted, as 
they get such a mass of fibrous roots as to 
bear removal at any time of the year. And in 
poor, rather light, dry soil, they make far more 
fibrous roots than in that, of a strong loamy 
nature. The Holly naturally forms pyramidal 




74 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Apkil 14, 1883. 


bushes, and in forming hedges the tendency to 
rush upwards must be checked by taking out 
any sappy, erect-growing shoots or leaders, so as 
to equalise the growth in the lower branches.— 
James Groom, Sea field Nursery , Gosport. 

- Holly hedges may be pruned back now. 

I cut one down two years ago, about this time, 
and it has done very well. In pruning be care¬ 
ful to go over the cuts after the saw with a 
sharp knife and make them smooth.—W. Harris, 
Barnstaple. 

9479— Rhododendron seed.— We can 
supply the above. Hollies may be struck in 
sand in an ordinary greenhouse or a cold frame. 
November is a good time to put them in ; cut¬ 
tings of the young wood with a heel or small 
piece of the previous year’s growth attached 
are best. Insert firmly 1 inch deep and 1 inch 
apart each way; next November transplant into 
pots or boxes, in good loam, put in a cold house 
or frame.— Maclennan & Co., Neiciugton , 
Edinbtsrgh. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 


Extracts from a Garden Diary—April 1 Q to 
April 21. 

.Sowing G. F. Wilson, Veitch’s Perfection, and Giant 
Emerald Marrow Peas; also Mammoth and Longnod 
Beans. Pricking off Asters, Poppies, Stocks, and Violas. 
Potting off Dahlias, Verbenas, and Heliotropes. Sowing 
Autumn Giant Cauliflower ; also Autumn Self-protecting 
and Snow’s Winter White Broccoli. Removing bedding 
plants from pits to convenient places to harden. Thin¬ 
ning Carrots and Radishes on early borders. Sowing 
Radishes, Mustard and Cress, French Marigolds, Celosia 
japonica, and Cockscombs. Getting out trenches for 
early Celery and hoeing amongst growing crons. Sowing 
Turnips, Spinach, and Melons. Potting off Alternan- 
theras, Coleus, Mesembryanthemums. Looking over all 
Strawberries that are well set, and picking off all weak 
blossoms and deformed fruit. Thinning out Turnips, 
and hoeing amongst them. Looking over Peach and 
^Nectarine trees on walls, and washing them with Quassia- 
chip water to kill green fly. Potting off Gourds, Sweet 
Basil, and Marjoram. Pricking off Snow’s Winter White 
and Autumn Self-protecting Broccoli; also Autumn 
Giant CaulDiower into frames. Giving all Rose trees 
that are infested with green fiy a good washing with 
Quassia-chip water. Forking amongst early Potatoes and 
turning over manure for Celery. Thinning out Spinach 
and tying up Lettuces. 

Glasshouses, 

Stephanotls and Gardenias —Plants 
of these two fragrant white flowers started in a 
brisk heat some time back will now come rapidly 
forward. The Gardenia requires plenty of son, 
as however much heat it receives the flowers do 
not make much progress until tho sun gets some 
power. Use every means to keep down scale 
and mealy bug which will now increase apace. 
Tf the growth of the Stephanotis was well ripened 
1 tst autumn, the plants will generally show 
flower freely on the young shoots as soon as 
formed. Do not use too much atmospheric 
moisture, as where subjected to an over humid 
atmosphere, the bloom is usually proportionately 
deficient. 

Perpetual flowering Carnations.— 

Where there is a well-managed stock of these, 
the principal lot should now be fast pushing up 
their tlower-stqms, for, although from their per¬ 
petual blooming habit with a sufficient number 
of plants their flowers may be had all the year 
round, still they come much finer and in greater 
abundance during the spring and summer. The 
plants will be much benefited by the application 
of manure water once a week. This will not 
only assist the earliest flowers, hut also the suc- 
cessional bloom. A little soot added to the 
manure water will be found an advantage, as 
besides its manurial properties, it tends to banish 
worms, and there is no insect that appears to 
liko depositing its eggs on plants that have the 
odour of soot about them. 

Tuberous Begonias. — If not already 
started, the old bulbs of these should at once be 
set to work, repotting them in good, fresh soil, 
and giving root-room proportionate to the size 
of the bulbs, for though they may be con¬ 
siderably assisted by liquid stimulants, yet with 
free-growing subjects like these Begonias, that 
form large heads in little time, a good amount 
of space is requisite for the roots; if too much 
confined the amount of growth and flowers 
forthcoming will be limited. 

Tender annuals.—Even in gardens where 
are made the 
oqiett annuals 


suitable for pot culture may be grown with 
advantage. Such things as Balsams, Globe 
Amarantus, Khodanthe Manglesi, Celcsia pyra- 
midalis, and the old-fashioned Cockscomb, when 
well managed, are amongst the most etfective 
plants that can be grown for summer decoration, 
and when in flower they can be placed about in 
conservatories and similar structures where it 
would not be expedient to set plants of more 
value. The feathery plumes of tho Celosia are 
unequalled as regards effect when grouped with 
plants of more bushy habit. The principal 
matter to be kept in view in the cultivation of 
these things is to give them sufficient room and 
keep them close to the glass from the time the 
seed germinates until they are in bloom. It is 
not advisable to place the seeds in too much 
heat; an intermediate temperature, such as that 
obtainable from a moderate hotbed composed 
of leaves and manure in about equal quantities, 
answers best. Pits or frames now occupied with 
bedding plants will in most places he at liberty 
in a short time, and will be available for them 
in their subsequent stages. 

Filmy Ferns. —Many who have attempted 
the cultivation of these elegant Ferns have 
failed through keeping them too warm. No heat 
is required except simply to keep out frost. 
They require to be confined within a glazed case, 
for though they will live exposed to the atmo¬ 
sphere of an ordinary cool fernery, yet they do 
not get on so well as if less air was given them. 
Any that need more root-room should be repotted, 
being careful not to disturb the roots more than 
is unavoidable, as now when growth is com¬ 
mencing any mutilation of them will interfere 
with the development of the young fronds. 
Keep the soil well supplied with water, as the 
least approach to dryness is most injurious at 
all times, but much more so during the early 
stages of growth than at any other time. In 
giving water be careful not to wet the plants 
overhead, as if this is not avoided they always 
have a brown, shabby appearance. 

The climbing Fern (Lygodium scandcns). 
—Where large stands or baskets are required to 
be filled with flowers this climbing Korn should 
be grown in sufficient quantity to admit of its 
being used freely, as its elegant long sprays have 
a beautiful effect when entwined amongst 
flowers and other green foliage.—T. B. 

Flowers and Plants in Rooms. 

A large and brilliant bouquet, all yellow and 
golden, is made of Berberis, yellow Wallflower, 
yellow Polyanthus, Iverrin japonica, and Jonquils, 
with some of the bright Daisy-like blooms of 
Doronicum caucasicum, and foliage of Golden 
Valerian. Myosotis dissitiflora with the young 
growtli of Woodruff gathered in tufts combine 
to make a charming table bouquet in white 
china. The fresh lively green of the young 
Woodruff agrees well with the colour of the For¬ 
get-me-not, and the two together in the clean 
white porcelain give a pleasant impression of 
the bright young growths of spring. In another 
table bouquet, one or two clusters of Pulmonaria 
virginica, with it fine broad leaves, rises from a 
group of double white Wood Anemone. Wild 
Marsh Marigolds fill a large bowl on a hall 
table. A silver cup, broad and shallow, 1ms 
Stephanotis and Gardenia; the former, for its 
better preservation, kept low in the water. A 
twig or two of Portugal Laurel makes suitable 
foliage, the leaves not too large, but of the 
darkest green, and most brilliant polish. Cydonia 
japonica, pink and rosy scarlet, now well clothed 
with its own foliage, is beautiful in cream- 
coloured ware. A tall glass holds whole shoots 
of Dielytra spectabilis, flowered indoors. Alpine 
Auriculas in pots are grouped in large china 
bowls well mossed over—purple and lilac in one 
bowl, and yellow and golden bronze in another. 

—a. j. s. 

Flower Garden. 

General work. —This, to a large extent, 
still consists in the preparation of plants for 
summer arrangements. We are at present busy 
making hotbeds, consisting of stable litter and 
lawn mowings, for Alterantheras; putting in 
cuttings of Mesembryanthemum cordifolium 
variegatum in boxes, which are placed over the 
pipes in vineries to strike; pricking off seed¬ 
ling Tagetes, Pyretbrams, Zinnias, Asters, and 
Stocks, also potting off Coleuses, Iresines, Helio¬ 
tropes, and Petunias, and planting out Lobelias 
and Verbenas in turf pits, and Calceolarias and 


plants of a permanent character 
principal feature some of tk- hands 


Violas in the open air. Dahlias and sub-tropira! 
plants require the extra space thus gained, acd 
some of these need larger pots, our rule being 
never to let them get root-bound, as that cripples 
the growth of the plants for the whole season 
The outside operations now are principal!v 
mowing and sweeping; preparing beds and 
borders for planting; pruning and tying up,or 
nailing in climbers; sowing hardy annuals, and 
making successional sowings of Sweet leas, 
Mignonette, and Virginian Stocks; weeding, and 
in mossy places, salting walks and roads. 

Spring flowers.— Whilst Wallflower-, 
Primroses, Hyacinths, Tulips, and other spring 
flowers are yet in flower, notes should he made 
of the most popular kinds in order that their 
propagation may be undertaken at the proper 
season, and the approved varieties of bulbs 
ordered early. Wallflowers, Primroses, ar. 
Polyanthuses may be sown now, and gor-i 
varieties of the two last should be increased ty 
division as soon as they have done flowering 
New plots of Violets should be made as soon >■ 
runners can be had; from these early plantings 
good flowers are frequently produced in quantity 
throughout the autumn and winter. The Car 
and Victoria llegina are the best winter bloomers, 
simply because they are the hardiest. In otto 
the better to insure a long succession of flower; 
in spring different aspects should be chosen. 
We plant a few at the foot of the fruit tree wall- 
in every aspect: from the south we gathers: 
quantities of blooms in January, and from tit 
north and east aspects they have not yet dure 
flowering. Lily of the Valley is amenable to 
the same mode of culture, and the season d 
flowering is also proportionately extended. Beds 
of this Lily should now be top-dressed, and m* 
beds made by- dividing the roots that have Ire. 
forced. Plant single crowns in lines 3 inches 
apart and 3 inches asunder in the line; pres 
them firmly into the soil, and then mulch with 
cow manure, which should remain on the whole 
of the summer: next season some good flora- 
may be expected, and the following one they 
will be as fine as those from imported cresus- 
W. W. 

Fruit. 

Vines.—By this time the Vines in the latest 
houses will be lit for stopping if the operation 
has not already been performed. Syringe well 
twice a day until the bunches become prominent 
encourage a short-jointed, sturdy growth by ven¬ 
tilating freely through the early part of the day. 
close with brisk sun heat to save firing, aid 
allow the temperature to range about GO 2 at 
night. If the inside borders have not been 
watered since tha Vines broke, now will be a 
good time to give them a thorough watcrict’- 
if gross, with pure water; if weak, with liquid 
manure or guano water—which will carry the® 
on until after the fruit is set, when they may t* 
again watered and mulched with short mancie. 
Pay regular attention to daily details in sucks- 
sion houses, and on no account let the thinning 
of the berries get behind, otherwise a tedious 
operation of this kind, which require* great 
pat ience, is sure to be hurried over and imper¬ 
fectly performed. Fertilise Muscat* now in 
flower, also Black Morocco and other shy-setting 
kinds, using Hamburgh pollen if it can be ob¬ 
tained or ha« been preserved in a dry. warm 
place. A camel-hair brush should be used in 
preference to drawing the hand down the 
bunches, and the atmosphere of the house should 
be dry and warm when the operation is per¬ 
formed. 

Examine the foliage in out-of-the-way corners 
in the early house, and if a suspicious-looking 
leaf is found, either sponge at once with weak 
Tobacco or soap water or apply the usual 
remedy to the pipes for the destruction of spider. 
At the same time look well to inside borders, and 
if found dry, a condition under which spider 
makes rapid strides, water freely with guano 
water and mulch with short stable manure which 
has been well worked as for a Mushroom bed 
Damp this frequently to keep the atmosphere 
charged with moisture, maintain a low nipt 
temperature by giving front air, and, roost im¬ 
portant of all, see that the Vines are not carrying 
more fruit than they- are likely to swell up ar.d 
finish.—\V. C. 

Vegetables. 

Of Celery, which is always useful and enjoy¬ 
able when well blanched and well grown, our earn 
sowing now pricked out in boxes for second o' 



Apkil 14, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


75 


for main crop is well above the ground; for the 
last crop of all we sow in the middle of this 
month; this proves most useful for soups in 
early spring. Early Broccoli, such as Veitch’s 
xtutumn Giant, good old Walcheren, and White 
Cape should, if not already done, be sown at 
once—under glass if possible. To sow seeds 
outside, is not a good system; the young seed¬ 
lings do not grow and flourish in the same manner 
as if raised under glass, and weakly, crippled 
plants are not the thing if success is a considera¬ 
tion. Defer sowing the later kinds until the 
1st of May. Scarlet Runners I grow in minia¬ 
ture trenches, the same as Peas; the trenches 
should be taken out at once, well manured, and 
dug deeply, breaking the soil well as the work 
proceeds. We then put an inch deep of burnt 
refuse on the top of the broken soil, and wait 
until tfye second week in May; then with a 
cultivator we mix the ashes and the soil in the 
trenches, draw a shallow drill down the middle, 
and. in this plant the Beans in single rows, 
earthing them up when large enough, until the 
ground is level before staking. This method of 
planting Scarlet Runners makes them to a great 
extent independent of dry, hot weather. Peas 
that are sufficiently grown should be staked after 
slightly earthing them up; and here I must 
remark that Peas are very much benefited by 
staking, it keeps that worst of all enemies— 
the surface wind—at bay. I consider wind far 
more dangerous than frost for all outside Peas. 
Onr earliest Pea, Ringleader, is showing flower, 
but I have Minimum in pod, grown in boxes 
under glass, no fire-heat being used. While 
speaking of Peas I must say that in last week’s 
calendar I described Stratagem and Pride of the 
Market as 6 feet Peas, meaning Telegraph and 
Telephone. We are just finishing planting 
Potatoes, for which the land is in fine condition. 
Hicks’ and Black-seeded Brown Cos Lettuces, 
both good winter varieties, we have been cutting 
for use all winter, and just now we have a very 
good supply. I like Hicks’ Hardy the best so 
far as colour goes. Tomatoes grow apace just 
now. Keep the side-shoots thin, and supply 
them with water abundantly, but nothing more 
at present . When a good crop Is well set, treat 
them to a little manure water, but not too much 
— 1 quart of manure water to 3 gallons of clean 
soft water. French Beans should now be sown 
in small pots, and planted out under south walls 
or in warm corners for an early supply.—R. G. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

April is a busy month indeed, both in the 
garden and in the greenhouse. A great part of 
the summer display depends almost entirely 
upon what is done at the present time. 

Annuals and perennials. — Plant at 
once, in properly prepared beds or borders, 
nearly all kinds of hardy herbaceous and peren¬ 
nial plants. Among the best of these, for cul¬ 
ture in towns, may be reckoned the following : 
Larkspurs, Lupines, Sweet Williams, Carnations, 
Pajonies, Anemones (A. japonica is a good town 
plant), Campanulas, and Hollyhocks. The many 
beautiful varieties of Iris succeed splendidly in 
smoky air, if afforded a somewhat damp and 
shady, yet well-drained position. The ordinary 
Iris Germanica will grow anywhere, and with a 
very little care most of the others may be made 
to grow and flower well. Few have any idea of 
the loveliness of many of these. Plant also 
Gladioli, in many varieties, at once for flowering 
in good time this summer. A little dry silver 
sand should always be placed round the bulbs, 
particularly if the soil is of a damp nature. 
Saxifragas, especially such varieties as crassi- 
foiia, pellata, and ligulata, are fine for shady 
and damp situations ; when well established, 
several of these produce fine spikes of flowers in 
the most persistent manner. One other, the 
gorgeous Tigridia, should be mentioned; plant 
in the same manner as a Tulip, and on a warm, 
dry border they are sure to do well. 

Sowings of many annuals, such as Mignonette, 
Cyanus, Linums, and many others, should still 
bo made, particularly where a succession of 
bloom is desired throughout the summer. 

Climbers.—Of climbing annuals, Sweet 
Peas though so generally admired, do not do 
much good in town gardens; in the outer suburbs 
they may be tried, but are vety different fmm 
those in a cottager's garder^fn the country. (|ne> 
great point in succeeding i a WfjivL 


them fresh soil each year, they are always poor 
in exhausted or old soil. The best of this class 
is the beautiful Convolvulus major, or Morning 
Glory. In rich soil and a sunny aspect these do 
well anywhere, and the finest we ever saw were 
growing very nearly in the heart of London. Sow 
these any time this month, where they are to 
flower; they are far better thus than sown in 
heat and transplanted as some direct. The 
elegant Canary Creeper (Tropjeolum canariense) 
may be taken next. Treat this exactly the same 
as the last, and their long wreaths of golden 
blossoms will delight you until the autumn frosts 
destroy them. The Everlasting Pea does well 
in town gardens, growing with great vigour when 
once it becomes established, though this often 
takes time. One of the most showy climbers for 
suburban gardens is the large wild white Con¬ 
volvulus, or Bindweed. Any rooted pieces planted 
in good soil are almost sure to grow, and in size 
and purity it surpasses any of this family, not 
excepting the many beautiful exotic species. 
We have frequently seen flowers of this too 
seldom seen plant measuring over 5 inches in 
diameter when under cultivation. Most of the 
other most useful climbing plants need to be 
sown under glass, and planted out early in 
June. 

Passiflora crerulea, the blue Passion flower, is a 
fine town plant, though in very smoky places it 
does better under glass. The present is the 
best time to plant this curious and beautiful 
climber, as, becoming well-established before 
winter, the plant has a much better chance of 
withstanding frost. 

The greenhouse. —Every inch of space in 
the greenhouse should now be occupied, and the 
frames also be crowded with healthy young 
scions, which will need all the labour and care 
that can be bestowed upon them. This should, 
however, be a “labour of love,” and where this 
is indeed the case success is certain. As before 
directed, keep all seedlings pricked off as soon 
as ready; it is astonishing how fast they will 
grow now when fresh soil and more root-room 
is afforded them. Shade from hot sun, par¬ 
ticularly such as have been recently transplanted ; 
plenty of moisture should also be supplied 
whenever the temperature rises to 70° or 80°. 
Petunias for early flowering in pots should now 
be potted singly in small 3-incli pots, and 
shifted presently into 5-inch or 6-inch pots; 
pot up also a good supply of Fuchsias, and any 
spring-struck Geraniums that are well rooted, 
particularly of choice named sorts. Encourage 
the growth of these young plants, Fuchsias 
more particularly, by a genial temperature and 
frequent use of the syringe overhead. 

Hanging baskets.— The present is a good 
time to fill hanging baskets in conservatories 
with flowering plants, Ferns, and drooping sub¬ 
jects. Many Fuchsias, especially those of the 
Mrs. Marshall class, make admirable basket 
plants ; many Begonias, both foliage and flower¬ 
ing kinds, are also well adapted as centre sub¬ 
jects, while nothing can surpass the appearance 
of a good Fern, such as an Asplenium or Pberis; 
even many of the common hardy Ferns, Poly- 
stichum aculeatum for instance, or the delicate 
Lady Fern, have a most elegant appearance. 
Round the sides plant little rooted bits of 
Tradescantia, Campanula, the drooping Saxafrage 
(Mother of Thousands), Lobelias, Lithospermum, 
Ac.; and fill up the interstices with Selaginella, 
Lycopodium, or the like. Of course, everyone 
knows that the basket should be well lined with 
Moss, then filled with light rich soil pressed in 
rather firmly, and when the plants are all put in, 
water well, and keep in a warm, close, and 
shaded house till all are established and 
growing. 

Pelargoniums in pots (show and fancy) are 
now advancing rapidly. Keep them near the 
glass, tie out the shoots and thin where neces¬ 
sary, and give plenty of water on a sunny day. 
A dose of soot water and guano water alternately 
will greatly help them just now. Do not forget 
to have a plentiful supply of the beautiful and 
useful Helichrysum compositum coming on. Sow 
also now Asters, Balsams, and tender climbing 
plants, such as Thunbergias, lpomaeas, Mauran- 
dias, and others. Where space is limited and 
appliances not very perfect, it is, however, perhaps 
better to purchase young plants of many of these 
when they are wanted. B. C. R. 

Cheap manure.— To any one who has 
much land the cost of manure forms a very 


serious item in the yearly account, but as War¬ 
rington farmers say, “ If you put nothing in 
you can get nothing out,” and also, as another 
proverb from the same district says, “ There is 
nothing more honest than land; if you put it 
(manure) in it will come out.” But on the other 
hand there are pe^ pie who spend an extravagant 
amount of money on manure for small gardens, 
which causes everything that is grown to be 
dear. I have known an instance where a large 
productive garden was allowed to run wild 
rather than that the owner would buy manure 
and employ labour to supplement his own. Now, 
true economy is the happy medium. There are 
many things grown in a garden that do as well, 
or better, when the land is only manured once 
in two years, as, for instance, Turnips, Peas, 
Beans, Carrots, Tarsnips, and salads (Mustard 
and Cress); and there are some other things 
that do very well if they are planted in deeply- 
worked soil, and when they are nicely rooted, 
supplied liberally with house slops. For some 
things manure is indispensable, as in the case of 
Celery, Onions, Potatoes, and some others. Grass 
plots may be kept in the best condition by 
nothing but house slops being regularly thrown 
on. A useful fertiliser may be made by throwing 
all the garden refuse in a heap, and allowing it 
to rot, and then it may be used for planting 
Potatoes in, or for lightening heavy land where 
Peas are to be sown, or for planting almost any 
bulbous-rooted plants in. It is, in fact a vege¬ 
table soil.—G. C., Ecclcs. 

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis).—This 
plant is to be found in most European gardens. 
It is largely grown in France and Germany, 
where it is used in the manufactme of Eau-de- 



Uosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis). 


Cologne and other scents. It is also used in 
preparations for the growth of the hair, for 
which purpose it is said to be an important 
ingredient. Rosemary being a hardy evergreen 
shrub, it may be planted in almost any part of 
the garden ; indeed, there are several variegated 
kinds that are very ornamental, but are some-r 
what tender compared with the old green-leaved 
variety. All the kinds are easily propagated 
by slips or cuttiDgs in the spring. Cuttings 
should consist of young growths 3 inches or 
4 inches long, placed in sandy soil in a warm 
house or pit; but slips torn from the old plant 
with a heel attached will root readily in sandy 
soil in any shady situation out-of-doors. Occa¬ 
sional pruning is necessary, in order to keep 
the plants from assuming a straggling habit. 

Paper as a plant proteotor— During 
the late severe frost, I tried the value of large 
sheets of paper for covering plants in unheated 
houses, and I was surprised at the amount of 
cold a covering of even the thinnest tissue paper 
would keep out. Although such frail protectors 
are of little service out of doors they are of the 
highest importance as aids in protecting any 
tender plants in unheated houses, window gar¬ 
dens, or glass-covered balconies, such as form 
the main stronghold of the amateur gardener. 
I would advise anyone having such structures to 
test the value of paper as a covering, for it equal¬ 
ises extremes not only by its friendly shelter, but 
also by its equally friendly shade,for the scorching 
sun that- frequently follows close on the heels 
of a frosty morning is very trying to tender 



7 6 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[April 14, 1883, 


plants, and in severe frosty weather the sheets of 
paper should be left on any plants it is desired to 
protect all day or until a change of weather 
occurs, only removing them on dull, sunless days, 
or after the rays of the sun have begun to de¬ 
cline removing them for a few hours, replacing 
them again in the evening. I can confidently 
recommend this plan, for having some unheated 
structures partly filled with Geraniums and other 
bedding plants when the late severe frost set in, 
1 put paper coverings on trial, and although the 
frost penetrated the glass, not a leaf was injured 
under the additional covering of large sheets of 
paper, that were only removed when the ther¬ 
mometer had gradually risen for some hours 
above freezing point. I believe shading plants 
alone will frequently save them from the effects 
of frost-bite.—J. Gkoom, Gosport. 


VEGETABLES. 


CFLTIVATION OF CELERY. 

Celery requires good cultivation to bring it to 
perfection. It may be had in use from the 
beginning of September till late in April. The 
ground on which it is to be grown must be well 
drained to the depth of 3 feet or 4 feet, and 
trenched 2 feet deep, enriching it at the same 
time with good stable-yard manure and rotten 
leaves. The best way is to trench and ridge the 
ground at the same time, burying the manure 
deeply, so as to encourage deep rooting, an 
advantage during dry weather. Some time 
before the ground is required level down the 
ridges ; if the soil is heavy, fork it over several 
times, in order to bring it into good condition 
before forming the trenches. The latter, for 
tall-growing varieties, should be 6 feet apart, 
and fordwarfer sorts 4 feet apart. Make them 
18 inches deep and 15 inches wide. If possible 
they ought to run north and south, in order that 
the plants may have the benefit of the midday 
sun. Tread the bottom of them quite firm, and 
place in them from 6 inches to 9 inches of 
perfectly rotten manure, always preferring rich, 
well-decayed material from the stable-yard. On 
this must be placed some soot, when the trenches 
will be ready to receive the plants. I find by 
placing the manure deep that the roots reach it 
just when the centre leaves are coming up that 
are blanched, and if the plants are well fed at 
that time they form large hearts, crisp and white 
as ivory. 

1 f very early Celery is required prepare some 
l ich soil and fill a seed pan or box with the 
compost, firming it well; sow the seeds thinly, 
cover them over lightly with some finely sifted 
soil, and water through a fine-rosed watering 
pot, placing the paDs or boxes upon a shelf in 
thestovc or in a vinery at work. The seeds will 
soon germinate, and when the young plants have 
made two or three leaves, prick them off into 
boxes in rich loamy soil with plenty of manure, 
a portion of leaf-mould, and a sprinkling of 
silver sand to keep the compost open. Seeds for 
the early crop ought to be sown in February, 
and the seedlings will be ready to plant out as 
soon as all danger from frost is over. Some¬ 
times early Celery plants are grown in 4-inch 
pots where pits or houses are at command, and 
thus treated when planted out they sustain no 
check when planted in the trenches and well 
watered. 

A second sowing may be made about the 
middle of March, either in boxes in a warm house 
or pit, or on a slight hotbed on which are put 
6 inches of fine, rich soil made pretty firm, cover¬ 
ing lightly with some finely sifted soil. Prepare 
a piece of ground by treading it firmly and 
placing on it 6 inches of rotten horse manure 
and leaf-mould in equal portions, tread firmly 
and cover with 2 inches of fine, rich soil. When 
the plants have made two or three leaves prick 
them out in rows 4 inches apart upon the bed 
thus prepared, firming them well in as the plant¬ 
ing proceeds, and watering them with a fine- 
rosed pot, so as to settle the soil round them. If 
at hand a frame might be placed over the bed 
for a short time until the young plants have got 
established, giving plenty of air during the day¬ 
time, or the plants can be covered with mats at 
night. If properly cared for they will be fit to 
be transplanted into the trenches in two months 
from the time the seed was sown. For late 
plants a sowing may be made in April the same 
need no protect 

e 


Trenches for Celery are often made between 
rows of early I’eas, which shade the Celery 
plants when newly planted in hot weather, and 
when the Pea crop is harvested the Celery has 
the full benefit of sun and air. The trenches 
being ready for the reception of the plants, 
water them the day previous to transplanting; 
lift them carefully with a trowel, preserving 
every fibre, replant 1 foot apart, press the soil 
firmly round the roots, water well, and shade 
for a few days if the weather be dry and 
warm. The summer treatment consists in keep¬ 
ing the ground free from weeds by frequent 
hoeings, watering twice a week if the weather is 
very dry, and once if dull. When the plants 
are from fi inches to 9 inches high, weak 
manure water may be given them once a week. 
This is prepared by soaking either cow or horse 
manure in a large tub or tank, applying a por¬ 
tion of soot with the manure water, or a hand¬ 
ful of soot may be scattered occasionally around 
the plants before watering them. This destroys 
slugs and feeds the plants, giving them a fine 
green colour. In exposed situations it is often 
necessary to tie the leaves up when 1 foot or so 
high to save them from being broken by high 
winds, using for the purpose strands of fine 
matting, but be careful that the ties do not cut 
the leaves when growing. It is best not to 
eartli the plants up much until they have 
nearly completed theirgrowth. Merely scatter 
a little soil over the roots once a fortnight to 
serve as a mulching and induce the roots to 
come to the surface. 

Blanching: requires from five to seven weeks 
after the final earthing, before commencing to 
earth up all small leaves and any suckers, or 
secondary shoots, which may have grown from 
the base of the plants should be removed; tie 
the leaves carefully with some pieces of thin 
bast, which will give way as the plants swell. 
Some use tubes for blanching, such as drain-pipes, 
placed round the plants; others paper collars, 
and some employ clean paper, which keeps the 
soil from getting into the hearts of the plants 
when earthing is being performed, raising the 
collars as the earthing proceeds, or the collars 
may be left upon the plants. If tubes are not 
used, the soil must be banked up in the usual 
way at several times, being careful to keep the 
leaves close together, so that the heads may he 
straight and compact after being blanched. 
Choose dry weather for earthing, for if damp 
the hearts are sure to rot. Before earthing, 
scatter a little lime round each plant, which 
destroys all slugs, which are often destructive to 
Celery during the winter in damp soil. A sprink¬ 
ling may also be used when proceeding with the 
earthing. 

Celery may be grown in single rows or as 
many as may be thought fit, making the trenches 
wide enough to receive the number of rows in¬ 
tended. One row is the most convenient in 
private gardens, and even market growers adopt 
single rows more than double ones. When the 
earthing is finished, and before severe frost 
sets in, cover the tops of the ridges with dry 
straw, or better, if at hand, some dry bracken, 
which prevents the frost from injuring the tops 
of the leaves and keeps the hearts of the plants 
dry. 

Varieties. — I have grown the following for 
some time, and have found them to give satis¬ 
faction both as regards growth and quality, and 
they keep well—an important matter. Perfect 
specimens of Celery must have the following 
good points, viz., the leaf, or stalk, must be 
broad, thick, solid, crisp, free from ridges and 
stringiness, and the heads good in form and 
weight. Carter’s Incomparable Crimson is ex¬ 
cellent in quality and a good keeper. Sandring¬ 
ham White is one of the best dwarf white 
sorts, suitable either for early or late crops. 
Major Clarke’s Red is one of the best for the 
main crop, being solid and crisp, and keeping 
till late in the spring. Williams' Matchless Red 
is a good useful variety. White’s Grove White 
is one of the best for the earliest crop, blanching 
freely early in the autumn. Hooley's Conqueror, 
a red sort, is one of the heaviest of Celeries, and 
good in quality. Large-rooted Celeriac I find 
to be useful for soups. W. C. 


9497. — Potatoes for exhibition. — 

Amongst the best early varieties of Potatoes 
suitable for exhibition are : of white kidneys, the 
Ashleaf, is a good clean sample, though it is not 



adesirable variety; Alderman,large,liattisb,and 
handsome ; and Cosmopolitan. Of later white 
kinds. International, Woodstock Kidney, and 
Magnum Bonum. Of white rounds the earliest 
to produce handsome tubers are Keltham White, 
White Emperor. Premier, and First and Best; 
and of late ones, Bpdfont Prolific, Schoolmaster, 
and Piftyfold. Of coloured Kidneys, Beauty 
of Hebron, Queen of the Valley, and Wonder, 
ful lied are early; and Mr. Bieeee, I’rizetaker, 
and American Purple, late exhibition kinds. 
Lastly, of coloured rounds the best are, for early 
culture, Triumph, Reading Iiussett, and Early 
Ohio; and for later purposes. Vicar of Laleham, 
Iiadstock Beauty, and Adirondack. Ammonia 
is not, if largely employed, very profitable Potato 
manure. We have tested it as against phos¬ 
phates and found the latter far more productive 
of tubers. Ammonia promotes plant growth or 
leafage, but the Potato is most productive when 
its top is moderate, and the manure, as phos¬ 
phates do, tends to the promotion of tuben. 
Wood ashes, bones dissolved in sulphuric add. 
and similar compounds make excellent Potato 
manures. Ammonia will prove serviceable to 
Cabbages, Celery, Lettuces, and almost all other 
strong-growiDg kinds that are valued the more 
the greater their leaf area.—A. D. 

9540.— Indian corn. —The safest period a; 
which to sow Indian corn in the open ground ;■ 
about the middle of April. If needed earlier 
seed should be sown in pans or boxes and placed 
in a greenhouse or in a frame to encourage earl; 
growth for transplanting, as the plants will dibble 
out freely, and then are safest if done about 
the middle of May. The soil should be deeply 
worked, well manured, be free, and clean. The 
rows should be 2 £ feet apart, and the plants 
about 18 inches apart in the rows to admit of 
free earthing to help to support the plants 
against wirid. The soil between the rows mist 
be kept freely stirred all through the summci- 
A. D. 

-I should say Indian corn (Maize) will not 

grow to produce grain in an open field in Eng¬ 
land, except, perhaps, in a very warm spot in tie 
south. If for a garden plant sow in flower [«ts 
—four grains to each pot of 6 inches in diameter 
—and keep in a warm place. When 4 inches or 
6 inches high remove from the pots to tie 
warmest spot in the garden, disturbing the earth 
as little as possible. Much water will not be re¬ 
quired after the growth shows above ground. Re 
corn from first to last can bear any degree of 
heat.—A Canadian. 


FRUIT. 

MELONS IN HOTBED FRAMES. 
There is reason to think that we bavetoapest 
extent lost the art of Melon culture on hotbed- 
in which the heat is wholly supplied from fer¬ 
menting materials. It is not a matter of mnti 
importance to those who have more convenient 
appliances in the shape of hot-water iittinp. 
but it is well to remind those who have no such 
appliances, but who may have all the means of 
making good hotbeds within there own gardens 
that from now till October or November they 
may produce excellent crops of Melons in 
manure frames—equal, indeed, if not superior 
to those in houses specially designed for'te 
purpose, for a hotbed frame well managed n 
still one of the best places for the culture or 
Melons and Cucumbers and many other plants. 
There are many who yet prefer to use fermenting 
materials for bottom-heat for the fruit name 
while employing hot-water pipes for top-heat, W 
which are not used when the hotbed will 
tain the temperature of itself. The heater a 
hotbed is more natural, genial; and withon 
here staying to explain the why and the when!' 
fore, it is sufficient to say it suits plants be e 
than heat from hot-water pipes or flues- “ 
Melon culture in manure frames the mam ff'P. 
is the preparation of the bed. This shemd 
composed of tree leaves and stable utter 
equal quantities, or if leaves are not pmo” 13 ... 
of any half-rotten vegetable refuse tba 
temper the violent heat of the stable emi • 
Mixing the materials thoroughly two or 
times in the course of as many wee ~’ , 
sprinkling them with water at the same tim . 
of vast importance, and when all are in a m 
condition, they should be built into a sq • 
firm, and well-trodden stack, at least - 
wider than the frame.all round, ami from 



April 14, 1883] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


77 


to 5 feet deep. A heap like this, well knit to¬ 
gether and solid, will retain a high temperature 
all through the summer and autumn, with the 
aid of additions two or three times in the shape 
of loose litter laid round the frame up to the 
glass, in order to sustain the top-heat. 

Planting and culture. — The frame 
having been placed on the bed and filled with 
wjil-Tialf-decayed turfy loam, if procurable, or 
good common garden soil, which will do quite as 
well if it be such as grows Teas and 1’otatoes or 
the like well—the young Melon plants should be 
prc|>ared if not already at hand. It is better to 
sow somewhere else when the bed is being pre¬ 
pared in order to save time. Be that as it may, 
» 6-inch pot will raise a score or thirty seeds, and 
the plants should be potted off in small 4-inch 
pots when they have made their first rough 
leaves, and planted out in the bed a few weeks 
later. The number of plants to a frame depends 
upon circumstances, but if each plant has a 
space of 15 square feet to itself, it is not more 
than is required to grow a good plant intended 
to bear a good crop of fruit; but less will do by 
judicious training. The usual and best plan is 
to plant the Melon in the centre of the bed, top 
it to cause two or more branches to spring, ami 
lead one set towards the front of the frame and 
one set to the back. Usually the object is to 
"set'' a crop of fruit as soon as possible, and in 
that case it is essential that the limbs of the 
plants should be evenly balanced, and that all 
should produce flowers in time to be set within 
almost a couple of days of each other at the most 
It is quite a common thing in inexperienced 
lands to see a frame of Melon plants with 
perhaps one fruit to a light or to a plant 
when there might just as well have been 
half a dozen, or four at the least, if the 
training had been rightly managed. Such a re¬ 
sult can be secured in this way : Top the young 
plant above the first two good leaves (which 
means about the third joint above the seed leaf) 
if only two shoots are wanted from each plant. 
Two shoots of equal strength are more easily 
originated than four, and the plants may be 
planted closer in the frame on that account 
These two shoots almost invariably make equal 
progress, and one Bhould be pegged loosely 
towards the back of the frame and one to¬ 
wards the front. When 2 feet long, or there¬ 
abouts, pinch the top off each kind at the 
same time, no matter if one be shorter than 
the other. Both will shortly afterwards push 
from three to four good laterals or sub-shoots 
from the joints nearest the point pinched, and 
these will show fruit at the second or third joints, 
and all will expand their flowers on or about the 
same day. These flowers should be fertilised with 
pollen from the male flowers(alwaysplentiful and 
known by having no fruit behind them), at the 
same time performing the operation when the air 
of the frame is dry, about two o’clock in the 
afternoon, and when the flowers are usually in 
good condition. All the fruits thus set will likely 
swell equally, and a plentiful and even crop will 
be the result. Two or three fruits should be had 
on each of the two limbs on good strong plants 
with good foliage, or about six to the plant. 
Everything depends on the vigour, however; a 
heavy crop cannot be expected from plants with 
few and poor leaves, and by good leaves, I mean 
leaves of the circumference of the outstretched 
fingers of a man's hand at least, and of good stiff 
substance as well. It sometimes happens that 
the first laterals do not show fruit, as has been 
described, or do not show enough, and the way 
to do in that case is to pick off the one or two 
female flowers that do show, and pinch the 
laterals in their turn again at the first or second 
joints to cause a second sub-break, which seldom 
fails to fruit. The great point is to pinch 
methodically, and pinch all the main limbs at 
the same time. After-training consists in giving 
the shoots left room to grow beyond the fruit, 
and cutting out those that room cannot be found 
for. Take great care of the first and lnrgest 
leaves; it is these that do the work. Later in 
the season numbers of small shoots will push 
from the main stems, but these should be 
pinched out without hesitation, taking care never 
to cut a shoot close off at the point of origin 
from the main limb, which is apt to gangrene in 
consequence and rot off. 

Temperature and ventilation —From 

the time the seed is sown/tit> the fruit isfripe 
Melons should have a nighitemjterkf nr ■fc’Jrj'mfJ 


from f>5° to 70°, according to the weather, and a 
day temperature of from 75° to 85° and 00° 
under the same circumstances, giving least heat 
when it is coldest outside, and most when it is 
mild. At the same time there should always be 
free ventilation. The flame should now be 
quite closed, and more and more air should be 
admitted steadily as the thermometer rises, and 
be reduced as it falls to the chink of air that 
should always be loft on at nights in any frames 
to let the gases escape that would accumulate 
and do mischief, more especially at the beginning 
when the fermenting materials have not quite 
lost their rankness. 

Wateringf. —Melons in manure frames re¬ 
quire much less water than in hot-water pits, 
but up to the time the fruit is set the bed should 


ORCHARD BLOSSOMS. 

Tiie time of orchards is at hand, and we counsel 
all those who have the opportunity to enjoy 
them when they come. The glorious beauty of 
an orchard in flowering time one would wish to 
be seen in every village and on every hillside, 
but it is surprising how seldom it is seen when 
one considers the love and the opportunities for 
gardening which exist in our country. In cer¬ 
tain districts in Kent and other counties one 
sees little but fruit trees and orchards, but 
throughout the country generally they are far 
too rare. Every country gentleman should show 
the example of a well-kept and well-cultivated 
orchard in his place ; it would lead to emulation 
in a whole district. • It is not for its profit only 
that one desires this, though that is great, but 



be regularly sprinkled or well watered when it 
appears dry, or feels dry to the hand, only do 
not let the soil become sodden. By the time the 
fruit has swelled to its full size the roots will 
have penetrated the moist hotbed beneath, after 
which they will need little or no water from the 
watering-pot, and may almost be left to ripen 
off in as dry an at mosphere as can be maintained, 
otherwise the ripe fruit is apt to split, but much 
depends on the season. J. 8. W. 


9505.— Vines from eyes. —The eyes 
would be better on a hotbed or in a warm house, 
as then they would root quickly and, having a 
long season before them, could be grown into 
strong enough canes to bear a fair crop of fruit 
the following year. They will make roots freely 
enough in a cool house, but of course will not 
make such large plants by the autumn as when 
started in heat. When the shoots peep through 
the soil pot them at once into small pots; they 
will not have made roots, being callused only, 
but that does not matter, it is better to pot them 
before they strike root. They should be kept 
growing in a light house all the summer until 
I he latter end of August , when they ought to be 
placed in the open air to harden their wood. 
When propagated so late in the season, and with¬ 
out heat in spring to push them along, it is not 
advisable to get them into large pots, and if 
they fill 6-incn ones with roots, it will bo very 
good work. The following spring tbey may be 
shifted into 12-inch pots, and wil’ make good 
fruiting canes, or they may be ranted out if so 
desired about the latter end April.—J. C. R. 


for its extreme 
beauty. Every kind 
of fruittree is beau¬ 
tiful in an orchard 
when in bloom, 
some particularly 
so. Cherries, when 
they get old, are 
marvellous for 
beauty. Walking 
over some hills 
near East Grinstead last spring we came 
upon an old farmhou.se surrounded by old 
Cherry trees ; they were very healthy and very 
large, and leant in various directions through 
age, but were full of blossom. From three 
separate points of view along the road this 
house and its surroundings formed a picture 
such as one seldom sees at the Academy ; yet 
this could scarcely bo called an orchard, but 
was simply a group of Cherry trees around a 
modest house. A picture no less lovely is the 
old Cherry orchard with grass beneath, and 
sheep and lambs on it, the trees above a mass of 
snowy bloom, and the petals floating down on 
the wind and whitening the grass. Then we 
have the Bear, early and beautiful; he would be 
a wise man who would plant a few of the kinds 
peculiar in the beauty and size of their blossoms. 
So one might go through the list; most of our 
fruit trees have beautiful blossoms. Last, and 
best of all, however, is the Apple tree, the most 
important fruit of Europe or America, and the 
most beautiful flowering tree. What is the good 
of recommending botanical curiosities if people 
want to be told to plant an Apple orchard, the 








78 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[April 14, 1883, 


fairest, sight, perhaps, that has hitherto resulted 
from man’s labours ? It ought to be well done 
or not done at all; the soil, shelter, selection of 
sorts, proper trees to begin with, truth to name, 
not too many kinds, and proper cultivation of 
the ground for some years—these are amoDg the 
points that should be attended to if a good re¬ 
sult is looked for. No amount of telling will 
probably ever induce people to plant sufficiently 
few kinds. Everywhere we see the result of too 
many kinds. Better three sorts than thirty; 
but each sort should be looked at from every 
point of view—hardiness, fertility, titness for 
the climate, the stock it grows best upon, the 
time the fruit ripens, and the length of time it 
keeps. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


Linum trigynum.— Where yellow flowers 
are prized, combined with a plant that occupies 
little room, this old-fashioned Flax is deserving 
of cultivation. If seeds of it are sown at once 
they will make nice blooming plants before 
autumn. It is somewhat liable to the attacks 
of red spider, consequently a constant use of 
the syringe will be necessary, dewing the plants 
over every day. Six-inch or 7-inch pots are large 
enough, stopping once or twice to induce a 
bushy condition. 

0498.— Azalea buds withering.— This 
may be caused by dryness at the roots in winter. 
Azaleas should be kept moist even when at rest, ! 
or the foliage falls and the buds turn brown. At 
the same time it is possible that the roots have 
come into a bad state either through defective 
drainage or some other cause. When the plant 
starts into growth turn it out of the pot care¬ 
fully, and if the soil does not appear to be well 
filled with fibres and the drainage is full of 
dirt, work away as much of the old soil as 
possible without injuring the roots, and replace 
in a pot of the same size, giving fresh drainage. 
If the soil is packed with roots, shift into the 
next sized pot, in any case using good, well- 
sanded peat, and pressing it in firmly round the 
old ball. When growth is completed, place the 
plant in the open air until the middle of Sep¬ 
tember.—J. C. B. 

9520.— Date Palms from seed.— The 

seeds germinate freely in a warm house in 
spring or in a greenhouse in summer, bow in 
light well-sanded soil, burying the seeds about 
half an inch deep, and keep moist until they 
germinate. They take some years to make deco¬ 
rative plants unless they can have a good, strong, 
moist heat in spring; in any case do not be in a 
hurry to shift, let the pot get full of roots before 
doing so.—J. C. B. 

9523.— Geraniums not blooming.— It 

very often happens that Geraniums made from 
late spring-struck cuttings do run away all to 
root and leaf, and prove anything but florifer- 
ous. If, before being planted out, they have got 
a little pot-bound, and have begun to flower, 
they will do well. It is a mistake to have the 
soil too rich, as if the season proves to be moist, 
growth is almost sure to be coarse. Old cut¬ 
back plants turned out of pots about the middle 
of May, being then full of shoots and bloom, 
should give a grand display of flower all the sum¬ 
mer, as these will not become over luxuriant. 
Plunging the plants in pots into the beds is of 
doubtful value; far better make the soil less rich, 
in fact, dig deep, but dispense with any manure, 
and the difficulty would be removed.—D. 

9525.— Orange culture in windows.— 
Oranges may be raised in a sitting-room window 
with very little trouble. Sow the pips in 2^-inch 
pots (one in each) in light, rich soil, and water 
with tepid water, and place a sheet of glass over 
each, and keep in a warm part of the room till 
the young plants are above the soil, then trans¬ 
fer to the window, and keep them carefully 
supplied with water ; on no account should the 
soil be made sodden. By November they will 
have made nice little plants, and must up till 
the end of March be kept only just moist at the 
root. As soon as the plants begin to start into 
growth pot into 5 inch pots, and carefully attend 
them with water as before. Sponge the leaves 
occasionally to remove dust. The third season 
you may expect a few flowers—that is if they 
have done well. It is usual to graft young 
stocks raised in thurway, as they bJjoom earlier, 
seedling Orange t i^jJ^ny years 


before they flower, and then by no means well, 
and often not at all. The seedlings will appear 
in about a month.—W. Harris, Barnstaple. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

9491.— Earth closet manure. —This is 
excellent manure if properly looked after, and 
should neither breed maggots nor get hot. The 
soil used as the deodoriser should be free and 
perfectly dry, and always used in such bulk as to 
absorb all impurities freely. If this be not done, 
then the most important principle of the earth 
closet is lacking. In winter the heap of accu¬ 
mulated manure should be covered, but in sum¬ 
mer it may be exposed. Really, however, there 
should be little necessity for storing it, as it can 
be spread over spare portions of soil and can be 
dug in at once. We have found this earth closet 
manure capital for Fotatos, Celery, all kinds of 
winter stuff, &c., but it needs the assistance of a 
dressing of animal manure occasionally to keep 
the garden soil in good heart. The addition of a 
little soot or salt to the manure heap can hardly 
be otherwise than productive of good.—A. 

9509.— Manure water. — Liquid manure 
as it runs from a stable will need the addition 
of about its own bulk of water to make it safe 
for application to Roses and other plants. In 
such a case the proportion of strong urine would 
be rather large and that is a dangerous element. 
On the other hand liquid manure made from 
the clean horse manure dissolved in water, even 
though very strong, is probably the safest and 
most effective of all these manorial combinations. 
Scarcely any pot plants, soft-wooded ones es¬ 
pecially, and all garden crops but will be bene¬ 
fited by liberal applications of such home-made 
liquid manure.—A. 

9529.- Hyacinths after blooming — 

Hyacinths that have bloomed in glasses are 
almost worthless, as all the substance has been 
consumed in producing the flower. It is possible 
partially to re-invigorate them by planting them 
carefully in a rich turfy loam in the open air, 
with all their roots attached, but they will never 
bloom as at first. Plant them at once, and take 
them up in October.—G. C., Eccles. 

- The best thing to do with Hyacinths 

which have been grown in glasses is to plant them 
in the border, and leave them to flower as they 
like, as they are no good for pot culture.—A. H. 
Davis, Carskalton. 

9539.— Superphosphate and guano — 

Phosphates are best suited for the growth of 
root and grain-bearing plants, whilst guano is 
of a more ammoniacal nature, and is better 
fitted to help pot plants generally. A teacupful 
of guano should make a gallon of good liquid 
manure, if it be well stirred and then allowed 
to settle before being used. It is best, however, 
to make a much greater bulk at once, say 10 or 
12 gallons of it.—D. 

9542.— Manure for Rosea.— Speaking 
generally, horse manure is best for Roses, but 
where the land is very light or sandy cow manure 
is better than stable manure, as it is more last¬ 
ing and it retains moisture better than horse 
manure. You cannot well give Roses too much 
manure, care must, however, be taken not to 
place it against the bare roots, as it sometimes 
rote them.—G. 0., EccUs. 

9539.— Anthracite coal. — This furnace 
coal can be obtained from Mr. T. T. Pascoe, coal 
proprietor, Swansea, who offers the Diamond 
Anthracite expressly for burning in gardens. 
Anthracite is specially valuable for its smoke¬ 
lessness, and not least for its great heating pro¬ 
perties. Price is necessarily contingent upon 
the distance over which it has to be carried from 
Swansea.—D. 

-This can be had from Messrs. Norton & Co., Stone 

Coal Collieries, Llanelly. 


Scarlet Runners.—In planting Scarlet Runners is 
the position of the bean of any importance ? If so, which 
Bide up ought they to be sown ?-S. G. C. [The position 
is not of the slightest consequence.] 

Pure White Lily.— Richard II.— The name of the 
old white Lily, whicn we presume you mean, is Lilium 
candid um. 

Spent Hops —Subscriber. —Apply at the nearest 
large brewery to you. 

M. B.— Pull the bulblets off.- S. C. D.— Such frames 

can be had from Messrs. Kippingale, The Albion Lamp 
Company, High Holborn, London. Anyone handy with 


tools can make one much cheaper than he can buy it- 

- B. L. and A Rtgular Subscriber —Apply to Messrs. 

Messenger A Co., engineers, Loughborough, Leicester. 

Mrs. (?) Sotherton Hall.— They are pods of the Ground 
Nut, a little leguminous plant grown in w armer countries 
than ours, but imported to a large extent. Its Latin 
name is Arachis hypogrea. 

Names of plants.— Questor.—l, Daphne Mezereum ; 

2,l'olygala Dalmsisiana ; 3, Ardisia crenulata.- Cornu4. 

—1, Lachen&lia tricolor ; 2, Eranthcmum pulchellum ; 3, 

Deutzia scabra; 4, cannot name such a scrap.- Brooklet?. 

—Ceanothus dentatus.- E. L — Sempervivnm arbo- 

reuni.- C. T.— Saxifragacordifolia(pink), Pteri*crctica, 

Aspleuium bulbiferum.- Spcs.— 1, Kieus repens ; 2, 

Aspidistra lurida vaiiegata; 3, send with flowers.- 

East Anglia.— Omphalodes vema, Squill (Scllla blfolia 

var.), Daffodil (Narcissus minor) - Blanche .—White 

Allium lieapolitanum, Senecio Retasites.- Mrs. B Y. 

— Sparmannia africana.- Devon Dabbler. — Libonia 

flonbunda. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents—AM comnmnira- 
tiom for insertion should be clearly and concisely xcrittea 
on one side of th *• paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. Th* name 
and address of the sender is required , in addition to any 
liom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Querir* 
should alicays bear the number and title of the axierjr 
answered. When more than one query is sent eachshcmld 
be on a separate piece of paper. Oicing to the necessity of 
GARDENING goirui to press a considerable time before th* 
day of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
anmeered should be sent to us again. 

9679.—Vines failing.—Will some reader tell me tlis 
cause of my Vines not showing fruit ? I pruned them the 
end of November. I found that they were infested with 
mealy bug. I therefore removed the loose bark and 
washed them with sulphur and soft soap, and soon after 
painted them with a mixture of sulphur, soft soap, clay, 
and a little paraffin oil. .Some of the shoots are now from 
1 foot to 2 feet in length, and touch the glass, and are 
breaking out at each joint where I expected the bundles 
to form, and there are only two or three bunches on a 
rod. I started them soon after Christmas at a tempera¬ 
ture of about 4-6* at night, and gradually Increased it to 
about 00*, with a rise in the daytime. I have not syringed 
the Vines, but damped the floors and walls several times 
daily in bright weather. I have given air daily at the top 
in mild weather, nnd closed about two o’clock. The 
roots are in an outside border, and covered over with 
long stable litter. The house is heated with a 6-inch 
flow and return pipe. I have been informed that they 
wore allowed to carry two and three bunches on each 
shoot last season, which 1 thought might account for 
the failure. Can 1 do anything to help it now ? Any in¬ 
formation will oblige.—W. 

9580. —Tacsonia Van Volxemi. —I have a young 
Tacsonia 'N an Volxemi in a small conservatory wherr 
there are no beds. I want, therefore, to know how small 
a box this Tacsonia would do well in permanently. There 
would be room for the box to be 4 feet or 5 feet high, bet 
perhaps the roots would not go so deep. The TaosonU 
is at present in a small pot. Would it do to plant it in a 
box at once, or should it first be in a large pot? How 
much space should bo left between the stage and the 
earth in a box below it for air, Ac. The stages are ship, 
so there is no drip. Also how deep will things like 
Cobtea scan dens send down rcots?— K. A. J. 

9581. —Cheap manure.—On March 3, under the 
above, a “ Surgeon ” speaks of the way he uses the refuse 
from the house. I shall feel greatly obliged if lie will 
kindly give me a little more information. Where dors 
he, or where can I, get the sulphate of iron at 2d. per 
pound? I have had to pay fd. How many gallons does 
his bucket hold, and how many his petroleum cwk 
The sewage from my house has to l>e pumped up and 
applied ill summer and winter. What is the best way of 
putting it on the land lu the winter wheu it is wet?— 
J. W. B. 

9582. - Roses and stocks .- Will one of those cor¬ 
respondents who have been writing recently upon the 
above subject kindly say how I can distinguish the growth 
of Roses from that of suckers from the stocks, whether 
Manetti, Brier, or other ? I have some bushes in pots 
and in the garden and they are throwing up shoots 
from under the ground which I cannot ascertain to be 
from the stock or the graft. I notice the writer of one of 
the articles says he found stocks In a garden instead of 
Roses, and I am afraid mine are similar.—C hiswick, 

9583. —Hot- water apparatus and incubator 
combined. — I have put a small tenant's fixture green¬ 
house up without any heating apparatus in it. A* I am 
thinking of getting a poultry incubator shortly I should 
be glad to learn if there is any kind which would serve 
the double purpose of raising flower seeds and hatching 
eggs at the same time. I have a bench along the front 
about a yard high, under which I could place the Incu¬ 
bator. My greenhouse is a lean-to, about 10 feet by 7 
feet.—P oultry Girl. 

9584. —Calvary Clover.—Will any of your readers 
kindly give information respecting this plant ; I have a 
seedpoa containing four seeds, the plant of which is said 
to have been brought from Mount Calvary by a minister. 
Each leaf contains a red spot, and when the stems grow 
up they are formed into a circle and represent a crown 
of thorns. That is what I have been told I desire in¬ 
formation as to planting and treatment, and shall be 
obliged if Buch can be furnished.— M., Yorks. 

0585.—Arums after flowering.-How shall I treat 
two Arums just going out of flower? They are single 
crowns in 44-inch pots. Should I plant them out at once, 
or Bhould they be allowed to dry off a little first? Will 
it do to put them in larger pots and plunge them out-of- 
doors ? Those I planted out last summer did not do w» 11 
when lifted and brought in. Should they be put out in 
the sun, or In a shady place ?—L. 1). 

9586.—Flowers for small beds.—Win any reader 
kindly Inform me what kind of inexpensive flowers I 



April 14, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


79 


could crow that would look nice In twd flower bedg, 
10 feet long and 8 feet broad. This is the first year I have 
thought about my garden. I shall be extremely obliged 
if any reader will tell me the best time to sow the seeds, 
Ac.—B egin n k r, If'o Uh a VIA me. 

9587. —Insects on Eucharis.—The leaves of my 
Eucharia amazonlca are all changing to a yellow colour, 
and T find on close examination that there is a very 
minute brown-coloured insect on the underside of the 
leaves. I would be very glut! if some reader would give 
a few hints as to culture of the plant, also as to how the 
insects that infest it can be exterminated ?—W. J. M. . 

9588. —Training Lycopodium?.—Will any reader 
say how these should be trained '/ 1 saw some at a show 
last year which seemed to be planted in shallow pans and 
were grown into pyramids 15 inches high. Are there 
proper pans for these, and how are the pyramids formed? 
Chiswick. 

9569.—GeraDiumsand Heliotropes.—W T ill some¬ 
one tell me if it is time to repot Geranium cuttings 
taken last autumn; they are now fine, strong,healthy, young 
plants, but seem too much crowded ? Also does it matter 
if Heliotrope cuttings have flower buds on them?—L ittle 
Gardener. 

9590 —Underground stems of Ferns —Ferns 
when dug up in the woods frequently have a large under¬ 
ground stem, the result of many years growth. Goes it 
injure the Fern to cut this away ? Those sold at the 
florist's appear to have been trimmed.—S. G. 0. 

9591. —A gat h sea cceleetis.—I have two small plants 
of Agatha^a ctrleetis, and want to know how to treat 
them. AVhen may they he expected to flower, aud what 
sized pots would they want? Would they do best in north 
or south greenhouse ?—L. D. 

9592. —Soap suds and house slope as manures. 
Will some of your correspondents kindly inform me 
what these liquids can be profitably used for in gardens ? 
Also, whether it is advantageous to mix them in a tub 
for watering, and how they should be used.—M., Yorks. 

0593.—Hyacinths in pots.—I planted some Hya¬ 
cinth roots freah from Holland last September. The 
Mowers in moat cases have been good, but the leaves 
rather too long for the flowora. Please inform me how to 
avoid this evil in future.—F. 

9594.—Lotier cultive.—Would some reader kindly 
inform me if the Lotier cultiv^ sold by MM. Vilmorin- 
Andrieux et Cie, of Paris, isn climbing plant likely to suc¬ 
ceed so far north a-* Huddersfield, and what culture does 
it require?— G. II. E. 

9596 —Plants for carpets. --Gan any reader kindly 
say what plants would be suitable for planting on a 
rootcry, to act as a carpet, in a greenhouse devoted to 
Fenia? The position is very much shaded.—C. L. G. 

:>59C.— Asphalte pavement.— Will some practical 
reader inform me or the best method of making an 
iwphalte pavement in ft vinery about34 yards long?— , 
1L G. P. 

9597.—Peat moss —I shall feel obliged if any reader 
of Gardening would give his experience of the peat 
moss fibre as litter for horses, and say whether it is of 
any use as manure?—E. E. E. 

953d-Myrtles in rooms —I have a Myrtle which 
I am desirous of protecting from the dust of a room. 
Will it thrive under a glass shade provided with a venti¬ 
lator at the top ?— Myrtle. 

9599. —Fuchelas.— How soon may I stand Fuchsias 
out of doors, or would they do better in doors ? Should I 
stop the leading shoot to make them grow bushy, or do 
they come into a good shape naturally.—L. D. 

9600. — Strawberry blossoms going- back. — 
Ould any of your correspondents say what is the cause 
of Strawberry blooms going black in the centre?— 

Axxious. 

9’01.—Bed forPansies.—Will some practical reader 
kindly tell me how to prepare a bed for Pansies on a 
light sandy soil? What is the best manuro to use ?— 
J. W., Leicester. 

9502.—Marantas —Can anyone give me hints as to 
growing Marantas? The young plants come up spotted 
with me. 1 have only a warm intermediate house.— 
subscriber. 

9603,— Primulas.—Would someone tell me the proper 
way to sow Primula Beeds, and also the proper way to 
divide old plants ? They are now in bloom.—T. W. A. 

9601. — Mealy bug on Coleuses.— My Coleuses are 
much infested with mealy bug. Con any readers tell me 
what are the beat means of destroying this pest ?—H. D. 

9C06 —Oleanders.—Are they safe plants for a green¬ 
house? lam told they fill the houses with insects. If 
this is true, can it be prevented by any means?—It. E. K. 


Do pigs pay ?—As I take a special interest 
in this question, I give my experience, having 
kept a strict account of outlay and return on 
three pigs recently kept by me. I do not for a 
moment doubt the correctness of the statement 
_ , made by J. E. Vaux in Gardening of Feb¬ 
ruary 24, but according to his reckoning he has 
made as large profit per pig as I made out of 
three pigs. But this difference is manifest, he 
reckons Ins pork at 9d. per pound ; I sold mine 
at lis. per score, or a trifle under 7d. per pound, 
which is a fair market price. I find his reckoned 
st 7d. comes to about £3 4s. profit, a wide dif- 
ference to £8 6s. It will be seen by my account 
y 1 made £2 3s. 8d. on the three. “ G. C.” says 
■i J. E. Vaux reckons his bacon and hams at 9d. 
jr per pound when cured. Here is a point that 
y vants to be clearly understood, as there is a 
' vide difference between fr/sh > meat andciied* 
c t bacon, and I understand 


he sells his meat fresh at 9d., which he certainly 
could not do wholesale. 1 quite agree with 
“ G. C.” respecting a workingman’s pigs keeping 
the money together, and I think this is the chief 
encouragement to keep them. The following is 
my account of three pigs, viz: June 20, strong 
pig, £2; August 23, two pigs, £2 2s.; sharps and 
fourths, £5 3s. 5d.; barley flour, £4 13s. 3d.; 
Indian corn, 8s. 2d.; grains (brewers’) 8s. Od.— 
£14 15s. 4d. October 24, by pig, £5 19s. ; March 
1, two pigs, £11—£1G 19s.; leaving a balance of 
£2 3s. 8d. profit. After careful calculation I 
believe 15s. to be a fair average profit per pig of 
10 scores. To make this weight entails an out¬ 
lay of £5 extending over six months; this is 30 
per cent, profit per annum. This, in addition to 
the pleasure of watching them grow (which in 
my case is no small item, as 1 seldom come 
home from work without looking at the pigs), I 
come to the conclusion that pigs do pay, and 
pay well.—J AS. Button. 

- I have this winter proved that a pig does 

pay, if looked after. In November I bought a 
small pig, weighing about 63 pounds, for£*l 11s. 
It was fed twice a day on waste vegetables from 
the house (no scraps, these go to the fowN), 
viz., Cabbage, Potato peelings, Turnip, and an 
occasional Mangold. These were boiled with 
one quart of barley-meal per day, and mixed 
with 3 quarts of scald milk—that is, milk from 
which the cream has been removed for butter, 
and which the poor people will not even take 
the trouble to fetch when given to them. In 
January it was fed three times a day, and the 
barley-meal increased to 3 quarts, till the begin¬ 
ning of February, when it was killed, and 
weighed 164 pounds, costing 3$d. per pound. 
Some of the roasting pieces were bought 
by the butcher for 8d. per pound. Our man 
continually predicted that the pig would never 
thrive unless it was given much more barley- 
meal, which would, of course, have diminished 
our profit. We have often tried keeping a pig 
before, but always left it to the care of the ser¬ 
vant, and we came to the conclusion that as the 
pig cost Is. per pound when killed, we could not 
afford to keep one.—0., CWmtall. 


POULTRY. 


Rearing chickens.— One reads with as¬ 
tonishment that it should be thought needful to 
disturb little chickens at ten o'clock at night 
just when they are warm and cosy and asleep 
under their mother’s wings to give them a sup¬ 
per. Surely the idea is an absurd one and is 
not practiced by one raiser of chickens in ten 
thousand. I prefer to think such feeding would 
end in killing by kindness rather than promo¬ 
ting life. It does seem as if not a few persons, 
taking to poultry keeping, imagined that in 
their experience something quite new and clever 
had originated; but poultry have been kept and 
chickens raised by many millions before their 
time, and kept and raised without adopting 
measures that are not merely absurd but are in 
direct violation to all natural laws. Now, I 
want to say a few words about chicken rais¬ 
ing early, for late set hens can always be 
left to take care of themselves, but early 
set birds always want looking after, as in cold 
weather but a few minutes’ undue exposure of 
the eggs may upset all hope for a successful 
issue. And first there comes the question as to 
the fertility of the eggs, for it is cot difficult to 
understand for various reasons that in mid¬ 
winter some may be germless. Young cocks 
are always more active than old birds, and 
hence there should always be one young bird in 
the run, or more if the number of hens be large. 
Much has been said from time to time as to the 
number of hens that may be safely allotted to 
a cock bird, and I think in the case of young 
birds the number is often under-estimated. I 
have found during the past winter that one fine 
early young white Leghorn cock has not been at 
all over-matched with eighteen hens, having, of 
course, a good run and plenty of food. Several 
hens set early in March, the coldest and by far 
the most trying month of the whole winter for 
sitting hens, gave every egg fertile, although 
the average of one egg to each hen had dead 
chickens, but that was due to the excessive cold 
weather. I have every reason to be satisfied 
with a result that has not been excelled in this 
neighbourhood, whilst many cases of miserable 
failure have been reported. The nests in each 
case, also, were ffiade on the grotind, where 


there was no lack of moisture in the soil, a little 
rough straw and hay being employed solely. 
The eggs were all marked to prevent mistakes, 
and each hen’s first sitting duly recorded. The 
place of nesting was a large shed looking north, 
very cold indeed, but still not greatly exposed 
to the winds. Each hen when set was covered up 
with a big basket, or penned into her corner by 
means of a board, and whilst other hens were kept 
away from them, the bens themselves were not en¬ 
couraged to leave their eggs until a set time each 
morning, when they were visited, lifted off, en¬ 
couraged to feed, drink, and have a run, then 
returned to the nest, this course being followed 
until all were fed. Of course this takes the hen- 
wife some little time, and gives trouble; but it 
only lasts a few weeks, and when, as in my case, 
three hens brought out twenty-eight chickens 
from thirty-one eggs, all strong, and enabled to 
feed freely the moment removed from the nest , 
what better reward could be hoped for. We do 
not feed our chickens on “muck’ of aDy kind. 
Ilard-boiled eggs are the best of all food for the 
little ones at first, and may be followed by free 
feediDgwitli groats, soaked bread,crushed Maize, 
boiled Potatoes, mixed with barley meal, <fcc., 
and in a few weeks they will eat almost any 
thing. Not least important is it that the 
chickens should be honsed in a warm, dry place, 
and the floor of a greenhouse or Runny shed is 
first rate. Chickens need ordinary care only, 
but neither nursing or coddling.—A. D. 

Light Brahmas —From time to time T 
have read articles in these columns praising up 
Brahmas before any other breed as regards 
keeping for profit. I kept some of these birds 
about three years ago and had an impression 
that they were very bad layers ; but on reading 
so much in favour of them, I bought six pullets 
and a cock, sold to me as March, 1882, birds. 
This was in the early part of last November, and 
the first, egg was obtained the day before Christ • 
mas day. For two months after that I only got. 
thirty eggs, and one of them became broody. I 
should think there must be something wrong in 
my management, but the birds look well and 1 
feed them every morning with barley meal and 
Potatoes, and in the afternoon with mixed corn. 
I like the look of the light Brahma, but prefer 
the Game, and as I think the latter cannot be 
worse than the former, I shall get rid of them 
and go in for Game fowls.—J. P. [We are in¬ 
clined to think that “ J. P.” is rather prejudiced 
against the Brahma, than which no better 
all-round fowl ever existed, and we consider 
the rapid strides which this breed has made 
towards popular favour since the time of its first 
introduction is sufficient guarantee of its great 
utility. Is “ J. P.” quite sure that the birds bo 
purchased were really all well-matured pullets ? 
Again, a change of locality is sure to interfere 
with the laying, and he would have done much 
better to have bought the birds a month or two 
earlier. He has, again, some doubts whether his 
management is correct. If his fowls are in con¬ 
finement they ought to have three meals a day, 
and even if at liberty this number is not too 
many during the winter months. We doubt very 
much if he will find the Game such good layers 
as the Brahma, but as he desires only eggs, 
why does he not keep some well-known laying* 
breed, such as the Minorca or Leghorn.— Anda¬ 
lusian. 

Ivy injurious to poultry.— .£. A .—We 
do not think Ivy’ has the effect on fowls when 
eaten by them which many people imagine, and 
we could cite dozens of instances where the sides 
of the run were covered with it, but the fowls 
enjoyed good health year after year. Plenty of 
green meat must, however, be supplied or the 
birds will for certain eat large quantities of Ivy, 
which cannot be beneficial to them. In your 
instance we do not think it has anything to do 
with the scarcity’ of eggs, and no doubt when 
the weather sets in warmer you will obtain them 
in greater abundance. Your feeding is good, 
but perhaps a little too much of it. The mid¬ 
day’ meal should only be a light one. An occa¬ 
sional change in character of the meal and grain 
is advisable.— Andalusian. 

Aylesbury ducks.—//. P. J/.—If you 
require a really good strain of these birds you 
cannot do better than apply to Messrs. Fowler, 
of Prebendal Farm, Aylesbury, who are large 
breeders and exhibitors of this aud other varie¬ 
ties of ducks. They also supply gratis a little 
work oo the general treatment of these birds. 




so 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Apbil 14, 1883, 


You will find them very hardy and of good size, 
besides being capital layers. They require no 
special treatment beyond that generally practised 
for ordinary kinds of ducks. It is quite time for 
you to see about sitting the eggs, as ducks, like 
fowls, are much better if hatched in early spring. 

—Andalusian. 


BEES. 


IMPROVED STRAW SKEP HIVES. 

The promoters of advanced bee keeping are 
anxious to do away with the ancient and waste¬ 
ful practice of the cottage bee-keeper of de¬ 
stroying his bees in order to obtain the honey, 
(a barbarous practice truly, compatible with the 
kill-ng of the goose to obtain the golden egg !) 
an.< would teach him a more humane and in¬ 
telligent way of managing his bees generally, 
and so enable him to add to his income and 
better his condition as well as providing him 
with a constant source of study and amusement, 
and in order to do so would induce him to adopt 
the bar-frame hive, in the use of which he would 
become better acquainted with the habits and 
wants of his bees; but as a first step towards bee 
keeping of a more advanced and difficult 
character, would instruct him how to make the 
most of the straw skep, and thus lead up to the 
more scientific frame-hive management, and 
really much may be done with a llat-topped 
straw skep having a hole in the top fitted with 
queen excluder zinc, and it will be a great ad¬ 
vance in cottage bee keeping if the horrible 
brimstone pit can be done away with, and the 
skepist taught to take the honey without de¬ 
stroying his bees by 

Driving.— It is well known to bee-keepers 
that bees are very little disposed to sting at 
swarming time, this is because they are gorged 
with honey, having wisely taken sufficient food 
to last them three days, and so enable them to 
start fair in their new home, and in this gorged 
condition will seldom sting, unless injured. If 
therefore before lifting the hive to he operated 
upon, a little smoke is blown amongst the bees 
and the sides of the hive struck a few times with 
the open hands, ihe bees become alarmed, and 
immediately fill themselves with honey and be¬ 
come as harmless as at swarming time ; the hive 
is then turned bottom upwards and an empty 
skep placed over it, bringingthe edges together at 
the point towards which the combs run; a skewer 
is next pushed through the edge of the empty 
skep into the one below, so forming a hinge, and 
a strip of wood with nails in the ends is fixed 
on either side, to keep the empty skep up, like 
an open lid ; the sides of the stock hive are then 
rapped with the open hands, and the rapping 
being continued a loud buzzing is soon heard, 
and the bees are seen rushing up helter-skelter 
into the empty skep; should it be desired to 
capture the queen she can mostly be secured as 
she runs up in the crowd. Thus the honey is 
obtained without destroying the bees, and the 
honey being unflavoured with brimstone is more 
saleable than that obtained from smothered 
hives, a double advantage over the brimstone pit 
performance. This is open driving. In close 
driving the upper skep is so placed that the 
rims of both meet, and a strip of cloth is tied 
round the junction to prevent the escape of the 
bees in their upward march; but open driving 
is to be preferred. The driven bees are then fed 
up quickly, so that they may be well established 
before cold weather sets in, or they are united to 
another stock; in 


Uniting, success depends upon the bees 
having the same scent, and being filled with 
sweets; so the hive containing the driven bees 
is turned up, the bees smoked, and sprinkled 
with thin syrup scented with peppermint, and 
1 lie bees to which they are to be joined are 
Ireated in like manner, and the hive propped up 
a couple of inches from the floor board, the 
driven bees are then, by a sharp and sudden 
movement, thrown from the empty skep, in 
which they are clustered, against the entrance 
of the stock hive (upon a newspaper or sheet), 
which they at once enter and become peacefully 
and harmoniously united, the queen having 
been previously removed, although if she be 
left the two queens will fight it out, the weaker 
being destroyed. The stock to be driven, and 
that to which it if intended to uikite it, having 
been gradually bfcugji^t^p eti 4ih]f ^oving them 


two or three feet a day, not reckoning those 
days on which they are not able to fly. 

Artificial swarming can also be per¬ 
formed with straw skeps, and a very good thing 
it is to practice, being particularly advantageous 
to those who have not time to spare to watch 
for natural swarming. Well then, when a stock 
shows signs of swarming it is driven in the way 
explained above, a sharp look-out being kept to 
sec that the queen goes up into the empty skep 
with the bees, of which not more than about 
half must be driven up, as a sufficient number 
must be left in the parent hive to hatch out the 
brood Sec ; the parent hive and artificial swarm 
are now placed one on either side of the old 
stand, that they may receive an equal number 
of the bees returning from the fields, thus the 
swarm is obtained without loss of time either to 
the bee keeper or the bees, besides obviating the 
risk of losing the bees altogether, as they some¬ 
times become fugitive if they are not hived 
without delay after having clustered, b. S. G. 


A STEM! ASTERS ! ASTERS !—The German 

H crop of Asters being almost a complete failure, and the 
seed Wing therefore rt ported of indifferent growth, Wm. IS. 
Hartlaud offers seed of nrst-rate quality, harvested at Nice, 
in the south of France All the leading sorts, per packet, 
post free for stamps, fid. and Is. 

IIARTLAND’8 Old Established 8eed Wa'ehouse. Cork. 

CfTUCKS (German, East Lothian, KromDtonl.— 
kJ Perpetual Emperor, Giant CajK!, per packet, each 6rL and 
Is . post free. New Giant Perfection Ten-week. migoiflttGl 
strain for cutting purposes, per packet, 6d. and Is. This is the 
finest possible variety 

HARTLANP8 Old Establish ed Seed Warehouse. Cork. 

P HLOX DRUM MON DI GRAN DI FLORA.— 

No Annual cultivated stands the test so well under 
adverse seasons as Phlox Drummomli. Selections in twelve 
distinct colours, separate, most select large blooms, t* rr. tj- , 
2s. fid. Mixed packets, the finest strain offered in the l*kited 
Kingdom, per packet. 3d., 6d, and Is., post free. 

HARTLANI) S Old Established Seed Warehouse. Cork. 

DETUNLAS ! PETUNIAS !! PETUNIAS !! 1 

-L (Extra select for pot* and bedding purposes) —DOUBLE 
SECTION—magnificent fringed strain, awarded specuxijvnzts 
at r«*cent Cork and Lismore Floral Exhibition. i**r packet, 
post free, Is. fid. and 2s. fid. SINGLE SECTION—magni¬ 
ficent fringed flowers for pots, per packet Is. ; bedding sort*, 
ex. quality in mixture, special, fid. ; new dwarf section, very 
suitable for edgings and small beds, per packet, fid. 
HAKTLAND8 old Established Seed Warehouse, Cork 


Boxmrrth. 


BIRDS. 

Breeding canaries. — In answer to 
“ Dicky,” I beg to say that two hens will do 
fairly well with one cock, but the second hen 
should not be introduced until the first has 
commenced to sit. The best food for breeding 
canaries is a mixture of canary seed, millet, 
good sound growing rape, and linseed. Canary 
seed should form three-quarters of the mixture, 
the others in about equal parts; a liberal supply 
of hard-boiled egg and Osborne biscuits amalga¬ 
mated with a pestle and mortar is a most useful 
food for breeding canaries; where a supply of 
Watercress can be obtained, a little should be 
given frequently, plenty of sea sand would be a 
most valuable adjunct. —Thomas Gillis. 

- In answer to “ Dicky, ’ I always have 

found it best to keep birds for breeding in pairs— 
one cock and one lien. If two hens to one cock 
then it must be a double compartment cage so 
that each hen can have a separate cage, so to 
speak, for herself, but I do not think to much 
success is to be obtained as keeping one hen to 
a cock.— G. W. Singleton. 

Canary food. —The best food for canaries 
consists of two-thirds canary seed and one-third 
rape seed mixed. If summer rape can be procured 
it is the best. As to green food, a bitof Lettuce or 
a spray of Mignonette in summer will both be 
grateful and serviceable to the birds. It is better 
to avoid all sweets and confections, and in lieu 
of them to give once a week a few grains of 
hemp seed. At moulting time there should be a 
little Saffron placed in ihe water fountains, as 
it assists them very much to throw off their 
feathers. Feeding on hemp stops the singing 
of the canary, and engenders disease of the 
glands from its unctuous nature ; canaries, how¬ 
ever, are very fond of it, and can be rendered 
quite tame by holding grains of the hemp seed 
to them on the finger, from which after a while 
they will peck them off. Occasionally in spring 
the yolk of a hard-boiled egg may be given a 
little at a time.—M. W. R. 


pLOVE CARNATION (Old). 2s. 6d. doz.; 

VJ Wal flower*—Harbinger, Golden Yellow. Ac., 9d. doz . 
5*. per 100 ; Sweet Williams, white Pink*, Canterbury Bell*. 
6d. do/., 3*. 100 -W. & F. WHEELWRIGHT. Florists. Old- 
swinford, Stourbridge. __ 

OERANIUMS for i,ot culture, Is. doz. ; for 
VJ bedding. 3s. doz.: Fuchsia*, nice plant*, Is. do/., named, 
poet free.—W. & F. WHEELWRIGHT, Florists, Oldswiu- 
rord. Stourbridge. 

PANSIES.— Best show and fancy varieties. 
X Show varieties, named. 2g. per doz.; fancy ditto, 3*. per 
doz.. strong healthy stuff, true to name, post free.—W. & F. 
WHEELWRIGHT, Florists, Oldswiuford, Stourbridge. 


T7TOLAS, named varieties, 9d. doz., . r >s. per 100 ; 
V Daisies, common pink and white, fid. do/., 3 a. fid. i>er 
100; Polyanthuses (gold-laced), 7d do/.., 4s. jx-r 100, post 
free, extra for carriage.—W. & F. WHEELWRIGHT, 
Florists, Oldawinford, Stourbridge. _ 

QEEDS OF BEAUTIFUL CLIMBIN' i 

O AN NUALS. — Canary Creeper, Convolvulus major, 
Climbing Nasturtium, and Sweet Pea. nlso Giant Sunflower, 
3d. packet, 5 Is , free.—C. KEMP, Russell Street, Norwich. 

PLANT Privet Hedges for Shelter.—Good stuff, 
X 14 ft- to 2 ft.. 18*. per fOOO; 2 ft to 3 ft., 22a. per 1000 ; 3 ft. 
to 4 ft . 25*. per 1000.—Messrs. STANSFIELD, Nurserymen, 
Pontefract. 


TREE CARNATION CUTTINGS. - Strike 

X now for winter blooming. Miss Joliffe. La Belle, .and 
Souvenir de la Malmaison, 2s. 6d. doz., fTee.—E. TYLER, 
Cambridge. 


\TEW DWARF SCARLET CARNATION 

ll for bouquets-THE BRITISH GRENADIER. 
packet, Ir., poet free. For market florists this tine early- 
flowering variety will be fouud invaluable ; it blooms ful y 
three weeks or a month earlier than any other sort, and fur¬ 
nishes a succession of charming double flower* of deep RICH 
SCARLET, hence the name •‘Grenadier." 

IIAKTLANIVS old Established S eed W arehouse. Cork. 

PANSIES ! PANSIES :! PANSIES ' ’ ■ F,om 

X seed—The *eed offered here will give the highest sab- 
faction. Mixed packet*, from one of the best Scotch grower-, 
each 1*. ; mixed packets, extra quality. French seed, striped, 
blotched, stained. Ac , Is. fid. per packet. Emperor William 
rich ultramarine blue. 6d. per packet, post free; Lord 
Beaconsfleld, plum colour, edged with white, 6d. per packet, 
post free; t>uadricolor. most distinct marking*, fid- ter 
packet, post free ; Dr. Faust, jet black, 6d per j-acket, post 
free ; new striped, very distinct striped sort. Collection a 
8ix sorts from Normamly. Is. fid., Ac. 

H AKTLA ND’S Old Establ is hed Seed Warehou*e, Cork. 

OLOXINIa HYBRIDA ERECT A, from the 

VJ flnest col'ectirn in Europe, specially recoinm+nded. 
Is. 6d. and 2s. 6d. Jr.uu Mr M. Mullins, Gardener to Me. 
Colliding ‘Hyde P«rr, cork. Mr. Hartlaud, come, for tbc 
second season, and sc© your Gloiinias in flower. 1 have I*»d 
for thirty yews giowing Gloxinias often paying a high figure 
for a single tuber, and never saw any thing to equal the bioosi 
1 have now.” 

H Ah TLAND'S Old Established Seed Warehouse, Cork. 

pOVKN'FUAK den market FLOWERS 

VJ as sold in bunches Ac.—The collection of fotutevn 
sorts, 3s., post free. Everlasting flowers, b!ne Gframe 
tricolor Marguerites, all colours, from white to velvety ma¬ 
son ; Cuphea ktrigulosa. Mignonette, new pyramidal lor pots; 
Rhodauthe rraculata and Manglesi at present tiring sent to 
Corent Garden from the London suburbs . yellow Sultan 
Centaurea americaua, or basket flower of New York flower 
market; Double Geutn or Mountain Arens, German Scabidoj, 
extra quality; Viola odorata; White Czar, Wallfl&ver 
Covent Garden **loorl Red. 

HART LAND'S Old Established See d W arob on«e, Cork._ 

ALPINE PLANTS FROM SEED.-Tie 

collection pom free for 3s. And rosace coronopilotu 
(bloom like a immature Gypsophila). Aquilegia J ucunda, At- 
ineria tplendeua, Aubrieua, Bougaiuvinea. Campanula 
barbata alba, Dianthus BUDtrbus nanus, Doronicum eao 
casicum Elion* alpinus. Gentian a Andrews, Gyp*opbii» 
rep- us, Iberia .J ucunda, Lychnis Lagusca? (most lovely io pea. 
full of bloom at pre<eut). 

H ART LAND ' ti uld Esta b! i* hed Seed Wavehonae. Cork 

rPHE MULLEIN PLANT, Verb&scum I hap 

X bus. —Seed, per packet, pos. free fid. Of a curatiTe and 
remedial nature in the worst stages of consumption. Gene¬ 
rally taken as a decoction boiled upon new milk. 

HART LAN I)'8 Old Established Seed Warehouse, Cork. 

TTERBENAST REDDING SORTS FROM 

V SEED.—Six distinct colours post free 2* Scar.V; 
Defiance (scarlet), Sky Blue (tine blue), Black Blue (whin- 
eyed), Camlidiasuna (pure white, beautifully perfumed:, 
Auriculiettora (white-eyed). Carnation striped (Italian form); 
each, per packet ted. and Is , post free. 

HARTLaND’S Old Established Seed Warehouse, Cork. 

DEGONIA SEMPEKFLORENh ROSEA, new 
D and most striking novelty for pots and summer bedding 
Thousands of plants irom a sixpenny packet, post free. 

HA RTLAN P'S Old Est ablished ftecd Warehouse, Cork. 
ALPINE PRIMULAS. — Sow now in cold 

*-A frama or very slight bittom-heat. Use burned soil aarf 
charcoal drainage. A mixed packet from the following sort', 
post free, 2s. 6d. :'Rosea, denticulata, farinosa. pul.herring, 
purpurea, luteoL, "verticillata, cishmeriana, Ac. Single 
packets each Is. Plants, po»t free, each Is., very strong 
HARTLAND’S Old Established Seed Warehouse, Cork 


rpHE BLACK DAHLIA (Dahlia ZimapaniX 

-I- very curiou* and interesting for pots in conservatory, 
and for the Belcct herbaceous border; blooms Mack jet; seen, 
j»er packet, Gd. ; plants ix*t ree in May three fo- Is.; order j 
booked now ; seed of the beautiful Cosmea hipmu&t* pur¬ 
purea, ho much admired at Chiswick, all winter under gloss 
6d. per packet: sow in Juue and July. 

HARTLAND’S Uld Established Seed Warehouse. Cork. 

fjLlMBERS FOR WIRE ARBU URS^Ac. - 

VJ Collection, six sorts, post free, 2*. Angora Gourd ion*' 
of the most iuterefting feature* in W. B. Hartlaod's prirau- 
garden the past season, trained to wire arches; the fiuit 
makes a delicious preserve), Oobsea scandens ullta (flowers 
pure white, like Canterbury Bells). Momordica balsamir-a 
(the Balsam Apple), Tropmolum canariense (Canary Creeper). 
Tropjvolum Spitfire, Hop feed (very rapid growth). 

11 ART LAN P'S Ol d Established Seed Warehouse, Cork. 

OTRONG CLIMBING ROSES, toree varieties 

O for Is. 2d.; Clematis montana and Vifcicella, four, la 2d . 
Bignonia radicans, scarlet flowers, three. Is 2d. : wlaUtu, 
two, Is. 2d.; Hydrangea paniculata, Aralia Sieboldi. Id 
each ; Crassula ja&minea, equal to Bouvardia, lour. R: 
scarlet and white Honeysuckles, four. Is. 2d. ; true old 
criniBou Clove CurnationB. four, Is. 2d ; red Miniature Rose. 
7d.; white do., 9d. each ; Mimulus, hardy perennial, flower* 
yellow and crim*on, six, !s.; Magnolia, three, la, \ all strongly f 
rooted ; carriage fret—S. a W. HENRY,, Oakland*. Chi? 
well Row, Essex. 


I 

I 





GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. v. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


RAISING PLANTS IN COLD FRAMES. 

I THINK it is cot so generally known amongst 
amateurs as it might be, what use can be made of 
a garden frame without artificial heat. Frames 
are associated in the minds of many, as they 
used to be in my own, with ideas of hotbeds and 
heaps of fermenting stable manure, and they are 
often allowed to lie all summer and winter un¬ 
occupied till spring comes round again with the 
usual steaming cartload of fresh litter from the 
manure heap. Where this is objectionable, or is 
r't considered worth the expense, the frame is 
T-l'p'wed to lie in a corner like a piece of furni- 
t -2 which wants some particular and important 
p; Vt to render it of any use. As a general rule 
i is a mistake on the part of amateurs with 
small pieces of ground to attempt to use artifi¬ 
cial heat at all in raising the more common half- 
hardy plants, for unless it is to serve some 
special purpose, such as raising seedlings which 
are wanted very early for exhibition, the work 
can be done quite as well without it. The seed¬ 
lings will not be quite so early, that is certain, 
as if grown in heat, but they will be quite 
early enough to exhaust their flowering before 
they are killed with the cold, and that is ns 
much as any reasonable amateur could wish. 

A cold frame may be used for two principal 
purposes throughout the year, first for striking 
cuttings in autumn which are to be planted out 
in spring, and second for sowing seeds in spring 
to be planted out in summer. If these two 
periods could be kept clear of each other, the 
work would be somewhat simplified, but unfor¬ 
tunately, in our cold climate at least, the first 
period over-laps the second by about a month, 
for the half-hardy cuttings cannot be planted 
out with safety for a month or six weeks after 
the time for sowing the annuals has arrived; 
consequently, a frame with two compartments 
and two sashes, or what is called a double 
frame, is required, and with such a frame the 
plan which I have acted upon for some years, on 
a wet clay soil with a northern exposure, may 
be adopted without any difficulty. 

The interior of the frame requires to be kept 
as dry as possible in winter, and with that 
object in view it is placed on a wooden stage 
raised about 6 inches clear of the ground. The 
stage is open at the sides all round, and has a 
perforated wooden floor forming the bottom of 
the frame, which is placed upon it. On the floor 
*1 inches or more of dry ashes are laid, and on 
the top of this good dry soil, which has been 
mixed with some old manure, is sifted through a 
riddle till it rises within a foot or 9 inches of 
the sashes. More than 6 inches of ashes may 
be used to save the trouble of sifting so much 
soil; but it should be noted that the soil does 
not require to be renewed every year, but may 
be used for an indefinite number of years in 
succession without requiring any further atten¬ 
tion than digging and mixing it up some time in 
the course of the summer. In wet weather the 
sashes should be kept shut to prevent the rain 
getting in, and when air is required it should be 
given by raising the sasheB at one end by props 
made for the purpose. 

In the month of October one compartment is 
tilled with cuttings of Violas, which do not re¬ 
quire much protection in winter except from 
damp. The second is occupied by cuttings of 
Calceolarias and Pentstemons, &c., which require 
protection from both cold and damp. In spring 
the Yiolas in the first compartment give place 
to the seeds of Stocks, Asters, Phlox Drum- 
mondi, and such other half-hardy annuals 
as require a similar treatment. The cuttings 
of Calceolarias and Pentstemons, Ac., are put in 
about 2 inches apart and in rows; a slight 
sprinkling of water is given, just to keep them 
moist till the hot weather has gone and the cold 
has set in, say, till about the beginning of 
November. The soil at this time will be a little 
moist, but not wet, and if care is taken 
not to let in the rain, it will remain in 
that state all winter. The frame is kept 
closely shut at first till the cuttings have 
rooted, when the sash may be raided in mild 
dry weather to give more air; but to no ac- 

Digitized by GOOgle 


APRIL 21, 1883. 


count should it be drawn up or down or taken 
off in wet or cold weather: and when frost sets 
in it ought to be kept quite close again, even 
should it be for months at a time. As milder 
weather approaches in spring the sash should be 
raised, or even taken off, every day during fine 
weather, and by the end of April or some time 
iu May tlie young plants will be sufficiently 
hardened off to stand transplanting into the bed 
where they are to flower. The amateur who 
follows this plan will discover that it is not so 
much protection from cold »s from damp that is 
required, for the soil inside may be frequently 
frozen quite bard, and may remain in this state 
for weeks or months without injury to the plants, 
provided it is not loaded with too much mois¬ 
ture. When a change of weather comes, care 
should be taken not to admit the warmer air 
from the outside too suddenly, but rather, if 
possible, to let the soil in the frame get thawed 
gradually without opening the sashes. The 
Violas in the other division should receive the 
same attention, bnt they require to have the 
sash more frequently open, or off altogether, to 
prevent them from getting too much “drawn.” 

About the middle of April they may be all 
planted out, and the soil in the compartment 
which they occupied can be smoothed down to 
receive the seeds of the half-hardy annuals. 
These are sown in rows as soon as there is 
sufficient sunshine to warm the air iDside the 
frame, and keep out the cold air during the night. 
It is of little use sowing them in cold weather, 
for either they will not start at all, or they will 
start in a slow and weakly manner, and some 
will rot in the ground before the heat conies. It 
is better to wait even till May to get plenty of sun¬ 
shine and a vigorousgrowth,and it will ultimately 
be found that no time has been lost by the delay. 
When the seedlings are fit to be handled, they 
are lifted with a trowel and replanted in the 
same place singly about 1 inch or 2 inches apart , 
according to their size, and they remain there 
till they have grown sufficiently to he fit for 
planting out, which may be about the end of 
May, or earlier or later according to locality and 
exposure. As the Calceolarias which were in the 
second compartment have been planted out since 
the annual seeds were sown, the frame is now 
unoccupied, and will remain so till the cuttings 
for next year are put in in October, but some other 
use may be found forit even during that period. 
I usually keep a few spare plants of both cuttings 
and seedlings to fill up any blanks that may 
occur in the beds outside during summer. The 
plants which I have grown in this way have been 
principally Pentstemons, Calceolarias, Antir¬ 
rhinums, Hollyhocks, Stocks, Asters, Phlox 
Drummondi, Golden Feather, and Zinnia ole- 
gans; but many more may be added by those 
who have had more experience. This year I 
have grown in a frame, measuring 6 feet by 4 
feet, abont a hundred cuttings of Calceolarias, 
fifty of Pentstemons, and some hundreds of 
Violas, besides other plants, and in consequence 
of a little extra attention bestowed upon them 
by members of the household not a dozen 
cuttings have failed out of the whole lot. 

P. B. 


SEASONABLE NOTES. 

Primulas— The value of the Chinese Pri¬ 
mula for the embellishment of cool greenhouses 
during the winter is so great that all possessing 
the smallest glass accomodation should en¬ 
deavour to grow some good plants for that pur¬ 
pose. Fortunately, this charming flower is of 
very easy culture, demanding nothing more than 
the slight experience which a very small plant 
grower may have acquired. An ordinary green¬ 
house, where the plants can be kept tolerably 
near to the glass, will suit the young plants dur¬ 
ing the growing time, and providing frost be"kept 
at bay and a little fire made in very damp 
weather, there will be a bright display of bloom 
from December till May. In order to obtain 
good, effective specimens, the seed should be 
gown without delay. Fill a 6-inch pot to within a 
quarter of an inch of the rim with well-sanded leaf- 
soil, leave the surface rather rough, and after sow¬ 
ing scatter a litt le silver sand on it, just enough to 


No. 215. 


bury the seeds; but I should have said that tiie 
soil should be watered, and the pot allowed to 
stand an hour or so before sowing, as then little 
or no water is required until the seed germinates. 
Cover with a pane of glass, place under a hand- 
light, or stand the pot in another of larger size, 
putting a piece of glass thereon, and shade, or 
indeed keep quite dark, until the youDg plants 
appear. When up, inure to the general atmo¬ 
sphere of the house, and when large enough to 
handle, prick off some half dozen together into 
0 -inch pots, transferring them later ou to small 
pots. Primulas like plenty of light and air when 
growing; they strongly object to anything 
approaching coddling, a close moist atmosphere 
causing them to draw and become much en¬ 
feebled. If the seed is sown at once there will 
be ample time to obtain good, strong specimens, 
which will come into flower in November, and 
will last in beauty until April or later. 

Cinerarias.— Where any large quantity of 
these are necessary to keep up a supply of bloom 
from January to June, it is customary to make 
several sowings during March, April, and May : 
but, in a general way, if some seed is sown 
abont the beginning or middle of April, and 
some more the first week in May, it will suffice 
to render a cool house gay during the late spring 
months, or where a little warmth is at command 
from March onwards. Very few greenhouse 
flowering plants are bo effective and more easily 
grown than Cinerarias, bnt during summer they 
like rather cooler quarters than an ordinaiy 
greenhouse affords. A frame is the best place 
for them where they stand on a cool ash bottom, 
and can be easily managed as regards shading 
and air giving. Where no frame can be had, a 
good way is to cover a portion of the stage with 
an old mat, placing thereon 2 or 3 inches of 
Cocoa fibre or ashes, which, if sprinkled fre¬ 
quently in hot weather, will diffuse a grateful 
moisture, and will keep the roots in a mote 
equable state. Cover the seed thinly, amd be 
careful not. to allow the young plants to become 
crowded, but prick them off as soon as they can 
be handled. In the early stages of growth they 
like a light, well-sanded soil, not too rich, but 
when shifted on some well-rotted manure and 
fibrous loam should be used. Pot lightly and 
water gently until the roots get hold of tho 
soil. 

OyolamenB,—Where these were sown in 
heat during the winter months or in the first 
days of spring they will still need to be pushed 
along in a constant temperature of from 55“ to 
60°, or they will not come to flowering size by 
the autumn. Those who sowed in autumn, or 
rather in late summer, will, however, not need to 
apply much, or indeed any, artificial warmth, as 
the young plants will be so well rooted as to 
grow very strongly with the season. The present 
is an excellent time to pot them, as most things 
are now taking on an increased root action, and 
consequently lay hold of the soil almost imme¬ 
diately after transplanting. I cannot toostrongly 
impress on small growers who have bnt one glass¬ 
house the great advantages arising from plant¬ 
ing out during the summer. Many who have 
hitherto failed would, I am sure, succeed if they 
would make up a bed of light rich soil in a cold 
frame anywhere from now up to the middle of 
June, but the sooner the better, as if planted at 
once they will get good root-hold by the lime the 
very hot weather may be expected. If a very 
good light fibrous loam is available, use one- 
third of it to one-third leaf-mould and one-third 
fibrous peat with about one-fifth of the entire 
bulk of thoroughly decomposed manure, but do 
not employ fresh manure, which is fatal to the 
tender roots of Cyclamens. A good substitute for 
manure is Clay's fertiliser, which may be mixed 
with the soil at the rate of a good handful to a 
barrow-load of the compost. Add to this a good 
dash of silver sand, and you will have a compost 
which will grow Cyclamens to perfection. Set 
the young plants out some 8 inches apart, and 
keep the soil just nicely moist without watering 
heavily. Cyclamens only root freely in their 
early stages of growth when the soil is main¬ 
tained in an intermediate state of moisture 
Shade from hot sun, give air according to the 






82 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[April 21, 1883. 


weather, and about the middle of July they will 
commence to form young leaves, growing more 
and more rapidly as the season advances. With 
respect to potting at the close of the summer, I 
hope to say a few words at the proper time. 
Should there be no frame at command, and the 
plants have to be grown along in pots, put them 
in what are commonly called *• thumbs,” which 
is the smallest size poi made. Do not put them 
on a shelf at t he top of the house, bat arrange 
a portion of the front stage in the manner re¬ 
commended for Cinerarias, which indeed may ] 
be grown alongside of them all the summer, 
both liking a moist cool atmosphere, and requir¬ 
ing about the same amount of air, not liking to 
be coddled, but very much disliking cold cur¬ 
rents of air or draughts of any description, and 
hot sun. 

Tuberous Begonias. —These will now be 
showing signs of growth, which is just the right 
time for shaking all the old soil away and re¬ 
potting. Let the soil be light and well sanded, 
and the pots small to start them in ; the less soil 
the better until they have come well into growth. 
Be sure and give good drainage, and water very 
moderately for a time. Begonias are of very 
easy culture, but they require some care when 
first starting, or the tubers are apt to decay. 
Keep warm until fine weather arrives, and then 
give plenty of air. Begonias like a free circula¬ 
tion of air during the summer with abundant 
light, needing little or no shade from the sun ; 
but this will depend in a great measure upon 
the aspect of the house, and how it is provided 
with means of admitting air. Amateurs’ green¬ 
houses are generally lean-to's, and when fully ex¬ 
posed to the midday sun they require some 
shade during the hottest hours of the day, or 
the air becomes too parching. In a warm house 
seed may now be sown: it comes up very freely 
if good. Do not cover, but scatter a little silver 
sand amongst it, and keep close and dark until 
it germinates. Here I may remark that tubers 
intended for bedding out should never be put 
into warmth. The best way is to put them at 
once into light soil in a frame in a sunny posi¬ 
tion, not potting them, but setting them a few 
inches apart. Allowed to come on naturally, 
with abundance of air, they will be in prime 
order for planting out in June, and coming up 
with a good bunch of fibrous roots they will 
suffer no check from the removal. 

Winter-flowering Begonias— All who 
have a warm house in winter should grow a few 
of these, as if properly grown in summer they 
will bloom uninterruptedly all through the win¬ 
ter months. It is rather late to put in cuttings; 
they should have been propogated a month or so 
back, still, if a temperature of 60° to 66° can be 
had, they will soon make roots and will make 
nice little specimens by the autumn. For the 
benefit of those who may not be acquainted with 
this class of Begonias I may say that they 
differ from the summer-blooming kinds in not 
having tuberous roots, and that under good cul¬ 
ture the generality of them form compact bushy 
plants, and present a most cheerful appearance 
when studded with bloom. Young plants pro¬ 
cured now and grown along in a day tem¬ 
perature of 60° will make fine specimens. They 
like a fine, rather light soil, and should be pinched 
now and then to cause them to branch out. 

Fuchsias. —Old specimens which have been 
rested during the winter, and which will have 
started into growth, ought, if they are to flower 
well the coming summer.to be repotted. As the 
old mould is of but little service as affording 
nutriment, as much of it as possible should be 
shaken away so that the plants may be returned 
to pots of the same size merely substituting a 
good, free, rich compost for the old worn out 
material. Let the soil nearly dry out before 
turning them out of their pots, as then it will 
come away more freely and without bringing 
many of the fibrous roots with it. In the case 
of very old plants some of the ugly twisted roots 
may be cut away with advantage, but every care 
should be taken to preserve all young ones and 
fibres. The present is a good time to procure 
young plants or rooted cuttings, which will come 
along in the ordinary temperature of a cool 
greenhouse. Be careful not to employ a reten- 
tive compost for Fuchsias, they like a porous 
soil with plenty of sand in it. Pot rather 
lightly, and avoid heavy waterings until they 
fill the soil with active roots. Avoid draughts, 
and shade from hot sun. 

Digitized by G(X>gle 


Zonal Pelargoniums— Plants which 
were potted up from the open ground last 
autumn, and which were not cut back will many 
of them have long shoots which destroy the 
symmetry of the plants, but which make first- 
rate cuttings, striking readily in a cool house at 
this time of year. It is an excellent plan to 
look over the stock just now and take a cutting 
or two of every kind, as even from a well- 
balanced specimen a cutting may be Btolen with¬ 
out being missed. These spring propagated 
plants make nice specimens for autumn flower¬ 
ing, or will come in well for winter blooming if 
the buds are picked off all t lie summer. In any 
case they guarantee the grower against the loss 
of any favourite kind, and keep up a stock of 
strong specimens. J. CoRNHILL. 

Byjlfft. _ 


Ipomaea bona-nox. —Although this is a 
most, interesting and really beautiful climbing 
plant for a warm greenhouse or plant stove, yet, 
singular to say, one seldom meets with it ex¬ 
cept in botanic gardens. It is a plant which has 
been long under cultivation, having been grown 
as far back as the middle of the last century. It 
is a rapid growing plant, with slender stems 
furnished with heart-shaped leaves. The flowers 
are tubular, and the corolla, which measures 
from 4 inches to 5 inches across, is pure white, 



Ipoimea bona-nox. 


with five green streaks on the outside. It ex¬ 
pands about nine o'clock in the evening, and 
remains open till daylight. It is an easily cul¬ 
tivated plant in a warm greenhouse, grown 
either in a large pot, or planted out in soil con¬ 
sisting of equal parts loam and peat, with a 
little sharp sand. It is a native of Jamaica, 
where it festoons the trees along the banks 
of the river in a beautiful way. It may be 
raised from seeds, procurable in almost any seed 
shop. 

Geraniums In winter. —I am extremely 
sorry I cannot answer J. Itainford's query 
respecting the sorts of Geraniums we grow, as 
the constant bloomers are all seedlings (self 
sown) which have been selected for their good 
qualities, the four best are a salmon fading to 
white, a deep rose pink, a scarlet with white eye, 
and scarlet with white-edged leaf. The pots 
used are from 6 inches to 14 inches across, mostly 
6 inches. The plan we pursue is much the same 
as his own except that liquid manure is only 
used for the fancy Pelargoniums. In this 
part of England November is rarely a cold 
month ; indeed, we do not expect much 
frost before Christmas, and the vinery is 
exposed to the sun as soon as it rises. 
The same remark of more flowers than leaves 
has often been made about our Geraniums, and 
I believe the well-ripened wood is the cause of 
so many flowers. We have had to keep more 
fire this year on account of the extraordinary 
dampness of the weather; but that is ex¬ 
ceptional, as the gardener likes only to keep 
frost out, and we have once or twice been caught 
by ap unexpected one. I think this is a very 
good soil and climate for Geraniums, as we have 
had them stand the winter more than once, and 
that too with a couple of days' frost at intervals. 
In Lancashire I suppose it would not answer to 
have the plants out from May to November; 
this is an essential part of onr treatment, as I 
notice the half-dozen that remain indoors do not 
bloom so freely, though they retain their flowers 
longer.—A. B. T„ Eiut Anglia. 


FERNS FOR EXHIBITION. 


9558.—This is a very difficult question to an- 
swer, inasmuch as many of the Ferns usually 
seen in greenhouses are really hardy British 
Ferns, therefore they would be disqualified a< 
exotics; for instance all the varieties of the 
Lady Fern (Athyrium Filix-F’cemina) are hardy 
and some of them are crested, twisted, divided 
and sub-divided, the most distinct being 
Fieldi and A. cristata, they are all fast growing 
subjects and soon make fine specimens and are 
worthy of a place in any greenhouse; these aie 
all deciduous and are moisture loving plants 
Lastrea Filix-mas cristata and decompoitt ; 
are very showy Ferns for greenhouses; they art i 
hardy free growers, requiring but little care it 
their cultivation, l’olypodium cambricum, or 
Welsh Fern, is generally grown in greenhouses 
it is a moderately fast grower, of easy culture, 
and very useful for cutting for bouquets. The 
Oak Fern (P. Dryopteris) and the Beech Kern(t 
Phegopteris) are pretty little Ferns, and if grtun 
in shallow pans are very effective, but it tale, 
some time to get a good specimen. They are 
deciduous, and the chief drawback in their cul¬ 
ture is their being without green leaves ; 
winter; however, the pots can be placed nedt: 
the stage or other out of the way place till they 
show signs of starting in spring. 

The l’olystichums are amongst the very ter i 
winter Ferns, keeping green under glass till 
very late in spring. P. Wollestoni with plain 
fronds, P. Greyi with the tips of the leaflets 
curled, and P. cristata are the most showy it 
this class, and they require but very little cart 
in cultivation. Some of the forms of the Hait i- tt 
tongue Fern (Scolopendrium), especially tl* 
crested and forked species, are very showy, they 
are fast growers, and of remarkably easy cul¬ 
ture, and they are effective show plants. All 
the above are perfectly hardy, nevertheless the:: 
fronds, when grown out-of-doors, are not to lie 
compared with those that are grown under 
glass when rightly managed. The Royal Ken 
(Osmunda regalis) belongs to the hardy class 
it is a fairly good exhibition variety, and do 
doubt would attract considerable attention, 
especially if it could be shown with fronds 9 
feet in length. In a class for six greenhouse 
exotic Ferns the foremost amongst them would be 
the Maiden-hair (Adiantum cuneatnm). This, »o 
doubt, is the most useful Fern extant; the fronds 
find their way into all kinds of bouquets, and it 
requires but a moderate amount of care to 
grow it well. A. formosum is another vert- 
useful Fern of the Maiden-hair type, a fast- 
growing variety, and requires similar treatment 
to the above. Asplenium bulbiterum is another 
Fern very easily managed, a strong grower, and 
rather showy. Cyrtominm falcatum is quite a | 
distinct Fern, with dark green, Bhining foliage, 
and a free grower; it will stand rough treat¬ 
ment better than most Ferns. The Hare's-foot 
Fern (Davallia canariensis) is another that re 
quires but little attention to grow it well. 
Nephrolepis exaltata is a strong growing va¬ 
riety, having long, slender fronds in the war 
of Blechnum Spicant. The above six varieties 
will do well in the same temperature—what is 
called cold greenhouse treatment. There sir 
many others that would do well similarly- 
treated , especially rteris serrulata (sometime 
called the Ribbon Fern) and the crested form. 

P. serrnlata cristata, P. cretica, P. cretica alto- 
lineata, P. tremula, Asplenum flacciduru and 
rotundifolium. 


In a class for six exotics that require the aid 
of a warm greenhouse, but not strong stove-heat, 
there is the lovely Adiantum concinnum, in the 
way of the common Maiden-hair, with fronds 2; 
to 3 feet in length and proportionate in breadth, 
and A. gracillimum, having the most finely 
divided fronds of all the Maiden-hair species, it 
is a rather tender variety, the fronds being liable h 
damp if syringed much overhead, but a most use 
f ul Fern for button-hole bouquets. Lomariagiblu, 
a miniature tree Fern, is a free grower and a good 
exhibition kind. The Bird’s-nest (Neottopteris 
Nidus) is a telling plant in an exhibition. The 
Stag's-horn Fern (Platycerium nlcicorne) is a 
distinct variety, and Dicksonia antartica (the 
Australian tree Fern) is another showy kind- 
The above six Ferns are all fast glowers and 
distinct varieties, and will do well in the same 
temperature, to which may be added Bavalha 
dissecta, a pretty little Fern with finely divided 
fronds, Blechnum brasiliense, a smooth-leaved 



April 21, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


83 


tree Fern with stout, bold fronds, and Phlebo- 
dicm aureum, a distinct variety, having fronds 
of a peculiar sea-green colour. Any of the above 
can be got from any good plant nursery ; and it 
would be better to get good sized plants to start 
with, seeing that there will not be time to grow 
small ones to anything like exhibition size 
between this and July. 0. P. 


95-19. — Chrysanthemum cuttings.— 

The best and most natural method of pro¬ 
pagating the Chrysanthemum is by utilising the 
strong growth called suckers which spring up so 
freely from the base or root of the plants. To 
have these good the plants should be cut hard 
back as soon as they have done blooming and be 
placed in a cold frame where they will get 
plenty of light and air; that will induce sturdy 
short-jointed growth- The first week in February 
is an excellent time for amateur growers to take 
off cuttiDgs, putting some nine or ten into a 
6 -inch pot, using sharp sandy soil. The cuttings 
should be about 3 inches in length, and some 
will perhaps be found to have small rootlets 
already formed. These of course soon grow and 
are best put into pots by themselves. The non- 
rooted cuttings should have a gentle bottom- 
heat to assist them, and in a few weeks are 
ready to be potted singly and thenceforth crown 
on continuously, having no check from that time 
until they bloom.—D. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 


Extract! from a Garden Diary — April 23 to 28. 

Sowing victoria Stocks, ornamental Grasses, Clarkins, 
t'olllnaias, and Xemophilas ; also Turnips amongst bush 
fruit trees, and more Spiuach between newly bowd rows 
of Marrow Peas on a north border ; planting Violets In 
Ocds, herbaceous plants, Myosotls, and Cersstlum ; also 
strawberry plants that have been forced and duly 
hardened off ; hoeing among Cabbage and Cauliflower 
plantations: repotting Vallota purpurea, Palms, and 
Pomegranates ; sowing another batch of Balsams, Cine¬ 
rarias, Calceolarias, and Cockscombs ; also a bed of 
Walcheren and White Cape Broccoli, Marjoram, and 
sweet Basil; likewise Syon House Cucumber, MelonB; 
planting Asparagus, Celery, Globe Artichokes, Vegetable 
Marrows, and Tomatoes; putting In Pink and Carnation 
cuttings ; top-dressing Lilies in pots ; washing Roses on 
walls with Quassia-chip water to kill green fly; removing 
the coverings off Apricot trees, and thinning tbe fruit 
where set too thickly; sowing Scarlet Runner Besns, 
also Mustard and Cress; putting in cuttings of double 
White Primulas; sowing Cockscombs, Celoaia pyranil- 
dalis, and French beans ; mulching Strawberries out-of- 
doors with short Btraw ; dusting Turnips with lime and 
soot to kill fly. 

Digging land for main crop of Turnips ; clipping Box 
edging; sowing Spinach, Cardoons, Early Snowball 
Turnips, and a little Endive; getting out drills and 
planting early sown Leeks; sowing Peas in trenches 
which have previously been heavily manured, also a few 
rows of Broad Beans amongst Currant trees ; planting 
Uly of the Valley and Spirtca japonica, also Gladioli in 
well-manured ground; syringing Plum trees with soft 
soap and Tobacco water in order to kill black fly ; raking 
round Rose trees to roako the ground available for sowing 
•Mignonette seed; sowing prickly Spinach, Parsley, 
Chervil, Ridge Cucumbers, Scotch Kale, Broccoli, 
Radishes, and a little Cauliflower; disbudding Peach and 
Sectarine trees out-of-doors; digging ground for late 
Peas ; looking over Rose trees for maggot; sowing Asters 
■''locks. Mignonette, and other annuals; potting zonal 
Pelargoniums for conservatory decoration; also Musk, 

( 'stasias, and Calceolarias ; top-dressing Cucumbers where 
the roots can be seen on the surface ; cutting flower- 
spikes from Rhubarb ; sowing Canadian Wonder French 
Beans ; digging out Celery trenches and getting manure 
into them ; planting out old Chrysanthemums on north 
border ; putting in cuttlngsof Violets under hand-lights, 
and planting old plants outside under north wall; tying 
and pruning outdoor Fig trees ; making a bed for Vege¬ 
table Marrows with old Cabbage stumps and manure. 

Glasshouses. 

Allamandas. — Where these have made 
very long, straggling growth without showing 
Sowers they may have their points nipped out; 
the shoots should then be trained regularly over 
the trellis, bringing the points low down. This 
will cause a quantity of the back eyes to break 
that in due time will show bloom. See that the 
plants are now liberally supplied weekly with 
manure water. 

Bougainvillea glabra. — Keep the 
strongest shoots, which are those that must 
he depended on for flowering, in an erect 
position, as, if allowed to droop, they break 
back, which interferes with the blooming. Of 
all the hard-wooded stove plants that I have 
ever grown, this, under pot culture, if allowed 
to get anything approaching dry at the root, has 
its blooming the most interfered with. 1 If it 
gets a check in this w«v beSor* tk Utkin* is 
tormed the shoots usually4o*not exiendQOiTher, 


but set a few flowers at the points in place of 
the long wreaths that are forthcoming when all 
goes well with the plant. Both this and Alla¬ 
mandas will stand manure water in a stronger 
state than most things, and to have them in tbe 
vigorous condition essential to profuse flowering, 
they have it, as has been stated, weekly after 
the roots and top growth have begun to move 
freely. 

Plants In small pots. —For the purposes 
of ordinary cultivation it is a great mistake to 
to use larger pots than can be made to suffice, 
either for flowering plants or for those that are 
grown for their effective foliage. In the case of 
the former, where too much root-room is allowed, 
it induces over-extension of the shoots and 
foliage, and often a straggling condition col¬ 
lectively without proportionate increase in the 
quantity of flowers. Where larger pots are used 
for fine-leaved subjeets than needful, their 
appearance is meither so attractive, nor are they 
so enduring, as gross, over-luxuriant foliage 
soon loses its bright, healthy look. In addition 
to these objections, where plants are so treated 
as to induce extraordinary development, there 
is necessarily less room for variety; conse¬ 
quently, in the potting operations that take 
place with the stock generally through the 
spring months, it is well to give no more root- 
space" than is requisite, trusting to the aid of 
surface-manuring or liquid stimulants to keep 
the plants in a robust, healthy state. This par¬ 
ticularly applies to such plants as are wholly or 
partially shaken out, and which have their soil 
renewed annually. Where plants are wanted 
for exhibition purposes, and size is an object, to 
some extent this course may be departed from, 
especially when grown in thoroughly light-giving 
structures and kept close to the roof, conditions 
which directly check over-extension of the top 
growth. In the case of soft-wooded plants of 
quick growth a continuous supply of manure 
water at short intervals is indispensable at this 
season, and it must never be given too strong. 
For quick-growing plants like shrubby or herba¬ 
ceous Calceolarias, Cinerarias, Fuchsias, Pelar¬ 
goniums, Hydrangeas, Petunias, and tender 
annuals I have found no better plan when once 
the pots get thoroughly full of roots and the 
flowers formed than to use it continuously every 
time the soil requires moistening until the 
blooming is over. Hard-wooded greenhouse 
plants, such as Azaleas, Aphelexis, Boronias, 
Acacias, Chorozemas, Correas, Daphnes, Myrtles, 
Eriostemon8, Pimeleas, Polygalas, Pleromas. 
Neriums, Hoveas, and Genistas, at this season of 
the year, when taxed with the development of 
their flowers or with shoot growth, are greatly 
benefited either by manure water or the use of 
some solid fertiliser applied to the surface of 
the soil, which will not only assist the current 
season’s bloom, but its effects will be still more 
apparent on the ensuing growth. 

Seeding Primulas and Cinerarias.— 

Those who have really good strains of these 
useful plants, and who are desirous of saving 
seed which they can rely on, should select in the 
case of Cinerarias plants that possess the best 
form and colour of flower. Each plant possessing 
these properties should be isolated from the in¬ 
ferior stock whilst in bloom, as in this way only 
can seed that will produce flowers of the requisite 
stamp be secured. As regards Primulas, the later 
sowings made last year, which have not been so 
much weakened by blooming as the earliest, will | 
be in the best state to seed freely; these should 
be set on a shelf or stage under the influence of 
strong light and sufficiently supplied with water, 
nipping out the successional flowers formed after 
enough for seed purposes have been secured. 

Roses- —Tea Boses in pots that have been 
forced and flowering for some time will, if 
strODg, yet keep on making wood that will yield 
flowers, but to have them of large size and 
sufficient in quantity the plants must be regularly 
and liberally fed with rich surface dressings. 
Where any falling off occurs in this matter the 
after-growth will come too weak to flower; or if 
a portion of it does bloom, the produce will be 
thin and poor. It rarely happens that pot Tea 
Roses in the hands of private growers yield 
nearly the quantity of flowers of which t hey are 
capable, through want of liberal feeding. The 
nature of these Roses is to keep on all but con¬ 
tinuously growing when in a temperature that 
admits of such taking place, but, unless they 
receive a regular and liberal supply of manure in 


either a solid or liquid form, they neither in¬ 
crease in size nor produce flowers in abundance. 
They require and will bear much more in the way 
of stimulants than is generally supposed, and 
so applied they have a much better effect than 
any quantity of solid matter added to the soil 
which they will bear at the time of potting. 
Where the plants are turned out in beds, and 
their roots have thus unrestricted space in which 
to extend, they naturally are better able to take 
care of themselves, but even in this case a free 
use of manure water will be found advantageous. 
Whether cultivated in pots or planted out, they 
should be regularly syringed every day to keep 
down red spider—not merely sprinkled in the 
way often thought sufficient, but letting them 
have water without stint, so as to drench the 
foliage. Where Rose culture under glass is ever 
expected to be above mediocrity, there must be 
a ceaseless outlook for mildew, especially during 
this and the ensuing month, and wherever a 
curled leaf is seen sulphur should at once be 
applied.—T. II. 

Flower Garden. 

Dracaenas. — Most of the varieties of 
Draciena are so tender as to be only suited for 
indoor decoration, but there are a few so hardy 
as to render them all but indispensable for open 
air use in the summer flower garden. The kinds 
to which I allude are D. australis, which has 
broad, bright green foliage ; lineata, a sort with 
narrow green foliage; gracilis, a kind with very 
narrow striped green and brown foliage; and 
Veitchi, a species much like australis, butstiffer 
in the foliage, and therefore better able to with¬ 
stand the force of the wind. For sub-tropical 
bedding arrangements these Dracicnas are in¬ 
valuable, and a very few plants serve for a large 
bed, as, owing to the recurved and drooping 
habit of some and the spiral and perfectly round 
form of others, in order to show them off to the 
best advantage it is necessary to give them plenty 
of space, nine or twelve good plants being ample 
tofurnishabed 12 feet in diameter. Thusplanted, 
and the ground beneath them carpeted either 
with Sedum acre elegans or Golden Thyme, no 
more beantiful sub-tropical effect could be de¬ 
sired. They also make capital lawn plants, and 
in warm, sheltered positions stand our average 
winters. Several large plants of them stood out 
hero for years, but they all succumbed to the 
severe weather experienced in 1880 and 1881. 
They may be propagated at any season from 
seeds or cuttings. Ours are obtained by cutting 
up the old stems and conn-like roots into pieces 
of abont 1 inch long; these are placed in pans 
of sandy soil just in the way in which Vines are 
propagated, and plunged in a brisk bottom-heat, 
in which they quickly form roots and break into 
growth 

Summer bedding arrangements — 

These at the present time demand all but a 
monopoly of attention as regards propagation, 
arrangement, and planting. Winter effect having 
to be considered as well as summer, in order to 
avoid much autumnal removal, every hardy 
plant anything like suitable is pressed into the 
service; this to some extent excludes as unsuit¬ 
able many plants which we should otherwise 
like to use, and in some degree robs the summer 
garden of its gaiety, bat this loss is more than 
repaid by the extended season during which it 
is effective. Space will not admit of giving in 
detail all the arrangements now being made 
from the standpoint just alluded to, but the 
following treatment of a large circular bed may 
be taken as a fair example of the many ways 
in which hardy and tender bedders may be 
planted in combination. It is edged with 
Hermaria glabra, green, and the groundwork, or 
divisional lines, which ent up the bed into 
smaller circular or oblong beds, consist of 
Veronica incana, greyish white, the smaller 
angles being filled with Ajnga reptans purpurea, 
and tbe central and smaller beds as follows. In 
the centre is a large plant of Phormium tenax 
variegatum, which is quite hardy here; this is 
surrounded by Viola Blue Bell and Ageratum 
Cupid in mixture. The oblong beds have for the 
centre small plants of Cupressus erecta viridis, 
and a surrounding line next the Veronica of 
Coleus, the centre bciDg filled in with tricolor 
Pelargonium Sophia Dumaresque. The small 
circles have as centres small plants of Retino- 
spora pisifera aurca ; one half of them is filled 
with Lobelias of the pumila section, and the 
other half with Alternantheras It will thus be 


84 


HARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Apbil 21, 1883, 


seen that the whole of the framework of the 
bed, including the centre, is entirely composed 
of hardy plants, and therefore its conversion to 
a winter bed is an easy matter. Some of our 
beds have more, and others a less number of 
hardy plants than that here given, so that the 
bed just described may be accepted as about 
the average. When determining these arrange¬ 
ments and selecting plants for them, our pre¬ 
ponderating thoughts are length of season 
during which the plants continue effective, the 
reducing of labour by propagation of tender 
kinds, and the saving of house room for other 
and more profitable purposes. Most of the 
plants which we use have from time to time been 
alluded t q ; among those now being planted are 
Sedum glaucum, corsicum, and acre elegans, 
Saxifraga rosularils and oppositifolia major, 
Cerastium arvense and tomentosum, Echeverias, 
Semperviviums, Lamium maculatum aureum, 
Gold and Silver Thymes, Guaphalium lanatum, 
Helichrysum plicatum, Veronica incana and 
rupestris, small shrubs, Yuccas, Chamiepeuces 
(Fish-bone Thistles), Violas, and Calceolarias.— 
W. W. ' 

Fruit. 

Orchard houses. —When the stoning pro¬ 
cess is complete make the final thinning, bearing 
in mind that a light crop of fine fruit gives more 
satisfaction than a heavy one. Always give the 
preference to l’eaches and Nectarines which 
point to the sun or can be coaxed into doing so, 
otherwise the stalk instead of the apex will re¬ 
ceive the colour so much admired, but not al¬ 
ways attained. A general pinching of all the 
strong shoots will now be beneficial to the rapidly 
swelling fruit, but weak ones will be best left 
alone, as the only wood bud which they make is 
at the point, and stopping would render the 
shoot useless for another year. Good syringing 
and liberal feeding must have daily attention, 
and sharper forcing may be indulged in by day, 
particularly when the house can be closed with 
plenty of solar heat and moisture, but hard forc¬ 
ing is not advised, as it invariably ends in pale 
watery apologies for Peaches which nobody thinks 
of eating. It is understood that the house must 
be closed every afternoon for the attainment of 
size, but night air should be given, and the 
temperature should range from 56° to 58° when 
the fire is banked up for the night, and 50° in 
the morning, with a steady rise to 6">° or 70° by 
day. 

Late houses. —If the trees in late houses 
were clean and in good condition, the * set ” of 
fruit should be all that can be desired, as the 
days have been brilliant, although the nights 
have been cold. Lose no time in giving relief 
by timely thinning down to within a moderate 
percentage of the intended crop. Disbud by de¬ 
grees, use water freely, always warm if attain¬ 
able; feed with weak liquid manure for the 
present, and aim at a firm, sturdy growth by 
giving plenty of air through the early part of the 
day, and by closing in time for the water from 
the last syringing to dry off the foliage before 
nightfall. If fires are available, be ever on the 
watch, as a severe frost might injure the young 
fruit where blossoms would escape. Where Plums 
or Cherries are grown with the Peaches, they will 
do best, in the coolest and most airy part of the 
house, as a close, moist atmosphere often does 
more mischief than dry frost. Figs require the 
warmest end, and Pears, where space is limited, 
may be plunged on a warm border out-of-doors 
when the fruit begins to swell and there is no 
longer danger from spring frosts. Look well to 
pot Strawberries on the side shelves, and keep 
them well fed and syringed, as it is to their 
culture that we are invariably indebted for the 
first appearance of spider. 

Melons. —Early Melons now swelling will 
require liberal feeding with warm liquid 
until they have attained their full size and 
show signs of changing for ripenir when a 
moderate quantity of pure water t prevent 
flagging will keep them going and improve their 
flavour. If the plants are well cropped, lateral 
growths will no longer be troublesome, and as 
the size and quality of the fruit will depend upon 
the health of the old foliage, this must be kept 
clean and free from insects by copious syringing 
every afternoon at closing time. Morning 
syringing in light, bright houses must now be 
given up, otheryfse^the foliage Ivill scald; but 
pll paths, wallt J^y be well 


damped with warm water as soon as the morning 1 
heat begins to rise. Ventilate early to allow 
moisture to dry off the foliage, then gradually 
raise the heat to 85° or 90° with sun; close at 
these figures, and descend to 70° for the night. 
Grow cn successions with plenty of heat, air, and 
water, but carefully avoid producing a gross 
habit by feeding until after the fruit is set and 
swelling. Keep the glass clean, never shade 
after the plants get established, thin out and 
train the young growths, also remove male 
blossoms, and allow a wild, abandoned style of 
growth during the time the fruit is setting. The 
end of this month is a good time to make up 
manure beds in the frame ground for the growth 
of a summer crop of Melons, and as a steady 
heat is of the greatest importance, let the manure 
and leaves be well worked and fermented before 
they are put together. Build the bed just large 
enough to receive the frame, make it very firm, 
and protect from the weather. When the heat 
begins to decline and approaches 90°, prepare 
the hills in the usual way, always bearing in 
mind that the strong roots should be prevented 
from going down into the manure by the use of 
large sods of fresh turf laid Grass-side down¬ 
wards along the centre of the bed. To economise 
compost and to facilitate feeding, place two 
broad planks on their edges and 2 feet apart 
longitudinally on the sods; fill loosely with 
compost, beat firmly when warmed through, and 
turn out the young plants 12 inches apart.— 
W. C. 

Vegetables. 

Vegetable Marrows, ridge Cucumbers, and 
Gherkins—all useful vegetables—should just now 
claim attention. We make trenches 8 feet wide 
and 1 foot deep, building up the soil at the edges 
of the trench and filling it up with old material 
used for beakale and llhubarb forcing in the 
spring. Mixing with this a few loads of fresh 
manure from the stable soon gives the whole 
mass a nice gentle heat. We then earth it over 
from each side of the trench, and it is ready for 
hand-lights placed in the centre. I always sow 
the seed about the first week in May, taking the 
nurserymen’s advice to sow thick and thin early. 
Early Potatoes now showing above ground should 
be earthed over to keep them safe from frost ; 
when caught and blackened they never turn out 
so good a crop. The frost seems to paralyse them 
and does them much injury. Turnips, Spinach, 
Parsley, Brussels Sprouts, and a pinch of Cabbage 
seed may now be sown, the Brussels Sprouts 
being for late use, but all spring Broccoli keep 
in the seed store until the beginning of May. 
Beet should now be sown ; also make succes- 
sional sowings of Peas. Broad Beans should be 
sown according to the demand. Witloof sow at 
once if wanted. The ground lately occupied with 
Broccoli should now be made ready for Celery 
by taking out the trenches. Lettuces may be 
planted on the ridges. Well manure the trenches 
and dig them up a good depth if the soil admits 
of it, and by the time the plants are ready the 
soil will be well pulverised t hrough the action of 
the weather. Mustard and Cress, lladislies, kc., 
sow in accordance with the demand.— It. G. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 
Many shrubs, especially of flowering and free- 
growing sorts, may still be planted, and in very 
smoky places will do better than if put out 
earlier. Slow growing Evergreens, however, will 
not now do much good, unless very carefully 
attended to, and plentifully watered both at the 
root and overhead in dry weather. 

Make successional sowings of Mignonette and 
other hardy annuals if required, and carefully 
thin out, water, and otherwise attend to the 
patches of those already sowm and up. 

Shrubby Calceolarias (yellow’) will succeed 
much better if planted out at once in deep rich 
soil than if left till the other bedding plants are 
put out; being almost hardy, there will now be 
no frost to hurt them. Obtain plants of the 
many beautiful varieties of Pvrethrams, both 
single and double, and put them out into beds of 
rich soil in a sunny position. No plants are 
better adapted for town culture, and the blooms, 
being of a very enduring character, are very use¬ 
ful for cut flowers. Hollyhocks, Phloxes, Pent- 
stemons, and other hardy and half hardy 
perennials, may also be planted at the present* 
time with every prospect of success. 


In the greenhouse everything grows 
apace, and constant attention is now an absolute 
necessity. Cinerarias should now make a fine 
show. Shade from hot sun will greatly benefit 
the plants, as well as prolong the bloom. Above 
all, keep aphis well under. The simplest way is 
to have a rather deep frame or pit set apart for 
the purpose, with a few shelves for the plants to 
stand on, so as to allow the smoke to get all 
round them. When a plant, or a few plants, are 
seen to be getting infested, remove them here, 
shut up closely, and fumigate gently but 
thoroughly. Calceolarias are showing bloom 
also, and must be kept cool and clean; for these 
as w’ell as the Ciueraries a little shade is far 
preferable to excessive watering on hot, dry 
days. 

Pot off young struck Fuchsias, and grow them 
on quickly in a warm, moist, and rather shady 
house or pit. If sprinkled overhead three or 
four times a day in bright weather, it is wonder¬ 
ful how fast these grow. Thus treated, and 
potted on as soon as needed, fine plants 4 feet 
or 5 feet in height may be grown from cuttings 
in one season. Shift choice zonal Geraniums 
from 8-inch pots into 4A-inch ones for summer 
blooming, and pot of singly any that may be 
still in the cutting pots. Seedlings of all *ort> 
still need to be constantly’ pricked off as ready, 
or they speedily become spoiled and tndcu. 
Petunias sown early and pricked off some time 
since should be potted into 3-inch pets for early 
flowering. If grown on in a warm, light, and 
airy house or frame, and kept properly watered, 
these seedlings will make much more handsome 
plants, with larger and finer flowers than ary 
from cuttings. 

Sow at once a box of Cineraria and Primula 
for early flowering next winter. A greenhea* 
shelf, protected from sun, is the best place for 
the former, and a gentle hotbed, or a damp bot¬ 
tom in a warm house for the latter. 

Plants in rooms.— Keep plants in rooms 
clean and well watered. One frequently bi&rs 
complaints at this season that plants taken from 
a greenhouse “ go off ” so when placed in a room. 
Gas has a great deal to do with this, but the 
chief cause is the change to the parching air of 
the room, as compared with the mixture of a 
genial greenhouse. Careful watering and a fre¬ 
quent damping overhead with a syringe, or brush 
dipped in water, will go far to counteract this 
evil, but the best plan is to have a wooden lay 
constructed, 3 inches or 4 inches in depth, and 
large enough to comfortahly hold the desitf i 
number of plants. Place this on a stand or table 
near the window, and fill it with fresh Cocoa- 
nut fibre. Nothing can be cleaner or sweeter, 
and if the plants arc stood upon, or partially 
plunged in this substance, and this kept cor- 
tantly moist, the plants will flourish wonder¬ 
fully, and no dropping of buds or any unplea¬ 
santness of that sort take place. 

Again, if plants are to do well, the atmosphere 
of the room must be frequently changed-?^t 
is, the w’indow must be opened a little, prefer¬ 
ably at the top, for at least two or three honr> 
every day, unless very cold. With many this is 
the usual practice, and a highly commendable 
one in every way ; but plants cannot thrive in 
the stuffy atmosphere to be found in some 
houses. 

Ferns starting into fresh growth should be 
repotted into fresh peaty soil aud clean poU- A 
liberal supply of water will be reqnired as the 
growth advances, but do not give too much at 
first. Pay great attention to Grevillea robusta, 
which is one of the very best, as well a# 120 * 1 
elegant, of room plants. If not already gTOju, 
a plant or two should at once be secured, as t.,ej 
will just now be commencing to grow freely^ 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


TRANSPLANTING EVERGREENS- 
This is the best month in the.wbQR.J?: 31 
the transplanting of evergreen shrubs, as wi j 
ordinary caro they may be moved now witlioa 
any fear of loss, the genial showers ana - 
night dews being of material assistance keep¬ 
ing the foliage fresh, and helping the plan 
start into rapid root action. In theantunm 

vital powers of Evergreens are at a macn 

ebb, and they have the winter with its 
frosts and seating winds to contend with, 
each rfay then the earth is losing ite war 1 ’ 



April 21, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


85 


■whereas now the temperature is continually 
rising-, and all vegetation is waking to new life 
anti strength. 

The great point in the successful transplanting 
of Evergreens is to lift them carefully, so as to 
preserve all their roots, and especially the fibry 
portions of them, which are essential for keeping 
the plants alive till they are able to form other 
feeders. Not. only is it necessary to lift care¬ 
fully and preserve rootlets, but they must be 
kept from drying, which can only be done by 
covering them and the ball of earth during the 
transit of the plants to the place where they are 
to be planted. A wet mat is as good as any¬ 
thing to lay over or wrap round; but, previous 
to putting iton.it is a good plan to syringe or 
sprinkle the ball of earth with water, as then 
the ball and the roots will keep damp a long 
time. That the plantsmay be out of the ground 
as short a period as possible, the holes for their 
reception should be dug before they are lifted, 
as then there is no delay, and they can be 
dropped and covered up in their places at once. 
In the digging of the holes they should be 
broken up deeply, as it often happens that there 
is a hard pan below, which, if not disturbed, is 
impervious to roots, and it is impossible for 
plants to thrive if these cannot act ; and not 
only should the holes bo deeply dug. but they 
should be large, that the roots may be spread 
out properly at full length, instead of being 
doubled up and crippled for want of room to 
extend. 

In placing the plants in position in the holes, 
the balls should be kept so high that the collar 
of the trees or shrubs may be on a level witli the 
surface of the ground, and, with the roots ar¬ 
ranged in the way referred to, the filling in with 
fine soil may commence. Before this work pro¬ 
ceeds faraheavy wateringshouldbegiven, which 
will -wash the earth into any cavities that may 
exist under the ball, as the filling of these is a 
matter of the utmost importance to the after 
welfare of the plants. If these happen to be of 
large size, it is a good plan to slightly sway them 
to and fro, so that the puddled soil may draw 
under and in amongst the roots, after which it 
should be left for a time to subside, when the 
remainder of the earth may be shovelled in and 
made firm by the foot. The next tiling is lo 
mulch heavily with long strawy manure; if this 
be done, it is the greatest help that can be 
afforded to newly transplanted shrubs, as it not 
only maintains an equable temperature in the 
ground, but prevents evaporation, and thus con¬ 
serves the earth's moisture and enables the 
roots to take care of themselves. What inter¬ 
feres more than anything else with newly- 
moved shrubs and trees, and prevents them from 
becoming quickly established, is wind-waving, 
which causes a perpetual strain, and destroys 
the young tender fibres as soon as they form. 
To guard against this is therefore a matter of 
consequence, and the steadying of the stems 
Bhould meet with early attention. There are 
several ways in which this may be done, but the 
most secure is by the use of three long, stout 
poles, or stakes to each plant, which poles or 
stakes should be placed tripod fashion, with the 
stoutest ends in the ground and the points 
brought together at top, so as to meet the stem 
of the tree or shrub about three parts of the way 
np. To prevent chafing, it is necessary to pro¬ 
tect the trunk where they meet by binding 
around the bark some soft hay or old carpet, 
when the stakes may be securely tied, and the 
plant kept perfectly steady. Stout galvanised 
wire used in a similar manner to the poles, and 
made fast to stakes in the ground, answers the 
purpose equally well, and is neater and better 
on lawns where the plants come into view. For 
trees or shrubs of a small size a single stake to 
each is sufficient if driven well into the ground, 
in doing which care should be exercised to steer 
clear of the roots. N. D. 

Auoubas. -We find the Aucuba the best of 
all shrubs for planting under the shade of trees, 
as its st rong fleshy roots enable it to live where 
other shrubs would starve. Being easily propa- 

1 gated, we have of late years substituted it for the 
common Laurel where a thick ungrowth or 
screen was needed in dense shade, and by plant¬ 
ing a few of the male variety amongst the 
• ordinary kinds, we find they set their blossoms 
1 } most abundantly, and generally get a good crop 
■ of berries. Although hardyenough to withstand 
rieyere winters, their growth is eridiutl -afrcbfeft 


by them. As an instance of what an accomo¬ 
dating shrub the Aucuba is, I may state that it 
may be safely removed at midsummer or mid¬ 
winter. We have shifted it in all kinds of 
weathers, and have never lost one. Last summer 
we moved a quantity during the warmest, 
weather in July from a very hot exposed situa¬ 
tion to a shaded spot under large trees, and they 
are now in better condition than if they had re¬ 
mained undisturbed. The only thing I find them 
to dislike is the full glare of the snn. To have 
them in perfection they require shelter and 
shade; therefore they succeed where many 
sun-loving shrubs would fail. As regards the 
proportion of males to females, I may state that 
we have large clumps, many yards in circum¬ 
ference, of the common Aucuba with one plant 
of the male Aucuba in the centre, andourbushes 
are laden with fruit; but isolated bushes 10 
yards or 12 yards off are only thinly sprinkled 
with berries, and at longer distances fiom the 
male variety they cease fruiting altogether with 
the exception of a few stray berries, probably 
the result of insect fertilisation. Therefore, if 
we wish for a perfect crop of berries without 
having resource to artificial fertilisation, we 
must plant males about every 30 ft. apart among 
the ordinary form. Aucuba berries begin to 
colour late ; in fact, they do not begin to colour 
until those of the Holly and other berry-bearing 
shrubs are past; nevertheless they- add quite a 
distinct charm to the shrubbery during the 
spring months.—J. G. L. 

Shrubby Spirssas.— The i-ipirasas are re¬ 
markable for their floriferousnessand the beauty 
of their blossoms, which, from early spring to 



Shrubby Spine as (Chamtetlrifolla). 

autumn, contribute towards the floral embellish¬ 
ment of our gardens. Although they will grow 
and flower well in almost any situation, it is only 
when in a good holding and rather moist soil, 
well exposed to the sun, that their beauty be¬ 
comes fully developed. Most of them seed abun¬ 
dantly, but it is not necessary to propagate them 
in that way, as they produce suckers freely, 
which may bedetached without difficulty in win¬ 
ter, with a few roots adhering to them, and 
which, with ordinary care, will make good plants. 
S. Chamiedrifolia, of which the annexed is an 
illustration, is a very widely distributed kind, 
being found throughout the northern parts of 
Asia and America. It is a dense twiggy bush, 
studded during June or July with corymbs of 
white flowers, which are very ornamental. 

Hints on sowing seeds.— Meed sowing 
is, at this season of the year, one of the most im¬ 
portant operations of both the outdoor and in¬ 
door garden, and on the success of the seed lime a 
great deal of the pleasure or profit of the garden 
for the year depends. A few practical hints 
may help many who may not have had much 
experience with the wants of plants in their 
infant stages of growth, and of the many 
causes that militate against the young plants 
reaching mature age. As soon as the tiny 
seedling makes it first appearance above the 
soil countless enemies are ready to prey upon it, 
and even the beneficial rays of the sun that 


waken it into life, if allowed to shine too fiercely 
on it, will quickly scorch the as yet imperfect 
seedling. Birds devour the seedlings by thou¬ 
sands. Slugs and snails, if not carefully 
warded off, make a clean sweep of the seed 
bed, and the amateur looking on his bare seed 
bed comes to the conclusion that the seed 
supplied was old, while all the time it may have 
germinated well, and as rapidly have been de¬ 
stroyed, for I can safely say that even with un¬ 
remitting care at least 50 per cent of seedlings 
raised in gardens are lost from various causes 
before they arrive at a mature state. Now, in 
sowing seeds in the open garden, it is of the first 
importance to thoroughly prepare the seed bed, 
and have the soil in fine crumbling condition, so 
that the tender rootlets may easily penetrate it 
and find sustenance. Be careful to sow in drills 
of one uniform depth, and cover lightly, making 
the surface tolerably firm and even, then cover 
with fish netting at once, and if the crop is of a 
kind that slugs and snails prey upon, dust the 
bed with soot and lime at the first sign of 
the seedlings appearing above the soil. In 
the case of sowing seeds under glass, I have 
tried wooden boxes, flower-pots, and seed-pans 
in which to sow the seed, but have found little 
difference in result. In the first place put ample 
drainage, say one-third the depth of the box or 
pan, then one-third rough soil, and fill up with 
finely sifted, sandy soil. Press this down quite 
evenly and firmly, and give a good soaking with 
water, and as soon as the surface is firm, sprinkle 
the seed evenly and only moderately thick over 
the surface, and cover with fine sandy soil. 
Place the boxes or pans in a position where they 
can be easily shaded from the mid-day sun, and 
if the seed is very minute, such as that of 
Lobelia, Musk, &o., cover the top of the pot or 
box with a sheet of glass to prevent too rapid 
evaporation, and above this put sheets of paper, 
which make good shading. Remove these cover¬ 
ings in the afternoon, and dew the surface with 
tepid water from a very fine-rosed waterpot; be 
very careful that the sun does not shine too 
hotly on the soil, as if it becomes too dry the 
whole batch of seedlings may wither in an hour. 
As soon as large enough to handle prepare larger 
boxes in a similar manner, and prick the seed¬ 
lings out in regular order.—J. Groom, Seafittd, 
Gosport. 

OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

GODETIAS AS BEDDING PLANTS. 
Beautiful as many annuals are, they are too 
evanescent for bedding purposes, and with the 
exception of Stocks, Zinnias, and Asters, very 
few are used in that way ; and yet the Godetias, 
of which there are several varieties, grow freely 
and succeed almost anywhere. One of the most 
noteworthy is G. Whitneyi, and from this others 
have originated : the two best are Lady Albe¬ 
marle and The Bride, the first-named having 
brilliant satiny magenta-coloured flowers, and 
the latter blooms of a rich creamy white. Planted 
and grown together, or the one as an edging to 
the other, their effect is most charming, espe¬ 
cially when seen with the sun on them, as then 
their blossoms are fully expanded. These, when 
the plants are grown in good deep soil, measure 
at least 3 inches across, and are borne in great 
profusion ; and the more so if the seed-pods are 
picked off as they form instead of being allowed 
to remain on, exhausting the plants. 

The best way to get Godetias to bloom early 
is to sow in the autumn ; and, as they are per¬ 
fectly hardy, this may be done in the open, either 
where they are to stand or in small patches in 
sheltered spots, whence in spring the strongest 
may be lifted with balls, and replanted in clumps 
in the borders or in lines or rows in the beds. 
Being of a dose, upright habit, they should not 
be more than about ‘J inches apart, as then they 
gel well together and form a fine mass. If grown 
in borders they make the finest display in groups 
of three; and it is a great mistake to leave them 
thicker, as they only draw each other up, and 
have a weedy appearance. Those who have not. 
the good fortune to have plants that have stood 
the winter should sow at once, and when up 
thin out well; and, to save any check in trans¬ 
planting, it is advisable to sow where they are 
to remain ; but before doing this the beds or 
sites in the borders where it is intended to have 
them should be deeply dug and hcavil-, manured : 
as like most annual*, Godetias are fond "f wow( 



86 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[April 21, 1883. 


liviDg, and if they can get their roots well down 
they continue in Bower longer, and are more in¬ 
dependent of water and better able to take care 
of themselves. Not only are Godetias fine for 
beds and borders, but they are equally valuable 
for pots, to embellish greenhouses or conserva¬ 
tories during early spring—a purpose for which 
they are well adapted, as'also for sunny windows 
in rooms, where they make a great show. The 
proper time to sow, when wanted for such uses, 
is about the middle of August; and as soon as 
the plants are up they should be potted in 
-U-inch pots, three in a pot, and at the turn of the 
year, or a little later, shifted on into others 
about double the size. The best place to winter 
them is a rold house or frame where they can 
be kept well up to the glass, so as to have plenty 
of light and air to prevent them from drawing. 
As soon as they have filled their pots with roots 
and are showing bloom, it will be a great help 
to them if they are supplied with weak liquid 
manure once or twice a week, or as often as 
they may require water to keep the soil moist. 

_ S. D. 

PRIMROSES. 

The floral procession of the year may be now 
said to have fairly commenced. The advance 
guard of Christmas Roses, Snowdrops, and 
Crocuses has passed, and we are now in the hey¬ 
day of the Daffodils. Hepaticas are in full 
glory, Scilla sibirica and S. bifolia are making 
little pools of blue in the borders, Anemones are 
beginning to open their cups and stars, Pansies 
are opening their first flowers, and, perhaps 
sweetest of all, the Primroses are coming out in 
profusion, and scenting the air with their faint, 
sweet breath. There is no sweeter April flower, 
or one more easy to grow. The common wild 
one is not at all fastidious,but its richly coloured 
varieties require a light soil of fine texture, 
plentifully mixed with leaf-mould or peat. In a 
horder of such soil, sheltered from cutting 
winds and shaded from the heat of the sun in 
summer, a collection of Primroses can be pro¬ 
pagated by division, and kept on from year to 
year. They can be grown in the ordinary bor¬ 
der, if the soil is not too heavy, by putting out 
plants raised from seed every' year, throwing 
away the old plants at the end of the third 
year. 

A packet of good seed will yield plants of 
many shades of pink, lilac, rose, crimson, deep 
crimson, and purple, as well as pure white, so 
that quite a bright bed can be made of them. 
They ripen seed in plenty, but if true seed is 
required bell-glasses should be placed over the 
plants required to seed, to prevent cross fer¬ 
tilisation. The double Primroses, with the ex¬ 
ception of the lilac, white Primrose, and pink, 
require careful cultivation, but will do well in a 
bed prepared as previously described for the 
single kinds. These cannot be propagated from 
seed. They arc not so showy at a distance as 
the singles as they rarely smother themselves in 
flowers in the same profuse manner. Some of 
my t.wo-year-old plants of singles have from 80 
to 100 blooms open, besides an equal number of 
buds and of part flowers. When the soil is too 
heavy for Primroses, the Polyanthus comes in 
nicely, and especially the German Primrose 
Polyanthus, which is merely a Primrose, with the 
undivided part of the stem lengthened at the 
expense of the separate flower stalks. The early 
blooms of these are Primroses, while the later 
blooms have the Polyanthus stem. They are 
very free bloomers, and in the Polyanthus state 
very showy cut flowers. They are now to be 
had of nearly as many colours as the single 
Primroses. One advantage these have is that 
they admit of Auriculas being grown amongst 
I hem for succession, as both require the same 
soil, namely, one intermediate between that 
suitable for the Primrose and that suitable for 
the Polyanthus. Primroses, Polyanthuses, and 
Auriculas can all be grown together in a border 
with a slight, slope, having the soil graduated 
from rather light at the back to a good loam at 
the front. In such a border a goodall-the-year- 
rotind display' can be made by mixing the 
Primula family with English, Spanish, Persian, 
and Crimean Iris, Gladioli, Tigridia, Pinks, Carna¬ 
tions, and tall open-growing annuals, to give a 
slight shade in the heat of the summer. 

J. D. 



of the fancy Pansy into England. To clear up 
any future doubts, I will give a brief history of 
the introduction of this most popular flower. I 
think it was in 1860 or 1861 that Mr. Andrew 
Henderson, of the Wellington Road Nurseries. 
London, wrote to me to say that he had met 
with a new race of Pansies when on sne of his 
continental trips, and suggested to me that I 
should take them in hand at Shipley. It resulted 
in his procuring a few plants of each of the six or 
eight varieties, which I think he discovered in 
the late M. Mielleiz garden at Lille. Sly first 
year of growing these brought a storm of ridicule 
upon me from many of my friends, who con¬ 
demned me asa florist for taking upsuch mongrels. 
My old friend, John Downio, was one of its 
strongest enemies at first, and I think I am cor¬ 
rect in saying that Mr. John Laing, when at 
Dysart, was the first person in Scotland to take 
up what was then called the Belgian Pansy. I 
took to the flower from the first, and the first 
English seedling sent out was my Princess Alice, 
a large white self with an immense blotch, 
and to this variety and the continental 
varieties I had received, we owe the present 
race of fancy Tansies. The writer of the remark 
that “ such a splendid race of Pansies are almost 
unknown in England ” is either unacquainted 
with this side of the “ border,” or is only a tyro 
in Pansy growing, for the flower is extremely 
popular in England and there are a very large 
number of growers, but very few raisers of new 
kinds. Scotland has now that monopoly. The 
firm of Downie k Laird took the flower in 
hand I own, after I made it popular, when 
the veteran John Downie at last threw his 
scruples to the wind, and no person has done more 
to make this flower popular than that greatly 
esteemed florist. I may fairly claim to be the 
father of the fancy Pansy, for I first took it in 
hand and raised seedlings, and sent out for, I 
think, three years the only new fancy kinds that 
were sent out during that period. My old correspon¬ 
dent Mr. Samuel Shepperson, of Helper, mentions 
Princess Mathilda. This was one of my earliest 
seedlings, as also was Her Majesty, His Majesty, 
Harlequin, Imperatrice Eugenie. King of Italy, 
and others. I was a grower of Pansies when a 
lad, and have by me now coloured illustrations 
of our Pansies of nearly fifty years ago, which 
we then regarded as choice. Allen's Queen 
Adelaide and Appleby's William IV., two yellow 
ground flowers, and Maid of Athens, a white 
ground flower, are small and ill-formed and with¬ 
out any blotch, but they were the parents of our 
present grand Pansies. I still grow a large quan¬ 
tity of my favourite flowersand Violas also. Some 
of the most valuable varieties of Violas in culti¬ 
vation are my seedlings, such as True Blue, 
Yellow Dwarf, and others. — W. Dean, Walsall , 
Staffordshire. 

0552.— Gladioli. —The various kinds named 
in “Yorkshires” query are all of the summer 
and autumn hlooming or large-flowered section, 
and all have somewhat tender roots, although, 
perhaps, having regard to the dry condition of 
soil, they have not suffered from the recent frosts. 
Much would depend upon the depth at which 
the bulbs are planted. As a rule it is not safe 
to plant, especially far north, until April. The 
spring blooming or Colvilli section are somewhat 
hardy, the bulbs being smaller than are those of 
the Gandavensis kinds. The bulbs if left in the 
soil for the winter should be planted quite 
6 inches in depth, and then have the top shelter 
of some ashes.—D. 

ROSES. 

ROSES ON BRIER STOCKS. 

“ A Practical Man ” has not replied to my ob¬ 
jections to the Rose on t he Brier stock, and those 
statements he has made are calculated to mis¬ 
lead, He stated in his former article that the 
secret of his success was the once moving of 
the stocks, or in other words, the budding of 
the Rose on established young Briers. Will 
he tell us how the amateur with a small garden 
is to obtain such plants unless he masters the 
whole process of budding, and selects and plants 
his own Briers and buds them himself. 

I am quite aware that good flowers can be 
grown on old Briers, and that in some seasons 
the cut-backs beat the maiden plants, but the 
whole of my remarks must be taken as written 
from the decorative gardener's point of view and 
not from the special cultivators or the exhi¬ 


bitor's. "A Practical Man” no doubt knon 
that for garden decoration standard Roses mu4 
be allowed to a certain extent to ran on so as to 
form large handsome heads, to the advantage c< 
the quantity of flowers, but to the disadvantage 
of their quality; whereas, when exhibition 
flowers are wanted, new wood only must be pr» 
served, and the heads kept to the limit of one 
year's growth, so that the plants are notefko 
tive in the garden. 

“ A Practical Man ” admits he has not tried 
own-root Roses to any extent. If he had dot* 
so, he would not have allowed his enthusiasm fet 
the Brier stock to betray him into such state 
ments, as that only common kinds flourish in this 
way, or that if we grow onr Roses in this fashion, 
ourgardens would lack all the best varieties in cul¬ 
tivation. As a matter of fact a great proportion 
of the best garden Roses do well on their cm 
roots. By garden Roses I mean the free-giowinj 
and free-blooming sorts, in contradistirctfci 
to the shy-flowering and moderate-growingkiudi 
useful only to the exhibitor. La France, Alfred 
Colomb, General Jacqueminot,Charles Lefebm, 
Victor Verdier, Souvenir de la Malmaison, Mo 
Bosanquct, Ducher, Emily Laxton, John Hop¬ 
per, Julea Margottin, Baroness Rothschild, Sera, 
teur Vaisse, Camille Bemardin, La Seine. 
Hippolyte Jamain, Baronne Prevost, Princes 
Louise, Glory of Waltham, Comtesse Adele de 
Murinais, 11 ombre, Gloire de Dijon, and Arch 
mede are all good Roses, and all do well or thru 
own roots, and if nurserymen would only devrte 
attention to the own-root department we shook 
soon have plenty of good varieties over m 
above these. As matters are at present amupri 
in the Rose world, the hundred or so of exhibi¬ 
tors have their requirements attended to bp * 
large a class of raisers of new Roses and nurser- 
men, that it is wholly impossible that tbe business 
could pay. if exhibitors alone were the pur¬ 
chasers. It is only because the great body of 
the public are eager purchasers of everynoveltpic 
Roses that new varieties can be introduced s: 
the low maximum price of ill per plant. If the 
exhibitors alone were purchasers, a new Rtw 
would have to be sold at as high a price a- a 
new Gladiolus. Three out of every fourof the« 
new Roses are useless in the garden,and it s 
high time the whole system of supply 
changed, and far more attention than hitherto 
given to the development of a series of race oi 
free-flowering hardy Perpetual Roses doing 
on their own roots. We have too many globule 
flowers; these do not open well in a colAwtt 
season, a race of flatty Roses like the old Alba 1 
and Damasks would be an advantage; anda'-rJ 
a race of recurved Roses with ail the pf“ J 
turned back, showing only the inside of each 
petal. This is a very beautiful form of Bose* 11 
but totally neglected. 

With regard to the decorative effect of tte 
Rose I must agree to differ from " A IVarticaJ 
Man.” The standard Rose is part and panel n 
a style of garden design and effect so hope¬ 
lessly and utterly bad, that no person claiming 
to have any feeling for beauty could tote« j 
it for an instant. Those who admire atandai * 
Rose trees are in the same state as res 8 ' 
beauty, as the inhabitants of Banyan's City 8 
Destruction were as regards morals, so utte J 
purblind tliat they can barely see the light 0 
the gate which is the entrance to the right pa 
The wilderness style of garden which “At 
tical Man” deprecates, and which Holton 
scribes as that of Paradise, as distinguisn 
from the formal style of his time, is the 
one at which everyone slionld aim. It; 16 ■ 

by abolishing formal walks, geometric 
trim-edged grass, clipped shrubs, one* 
figures of plants, and standard Roses, 
can arrive at the natural and the pictures'! 
the garden, and until our gardens are f“ c , 
artist would sit down and make a . ' 

they cannot be assumed to have approacoe 
ffiction m any way. 

One great disadvantage the standard h - ^ 

as compared witli bush Roses of an J 0 f 
that wherever planted it must have a 
bare earth all round it sufficient for l . 0 f fat 
This space must be covered with a coatig 
manure in the winter, which must be jn 
in the spring, and must also be 
summer, so that liquid manure can 
and suckers got at, as soon as they appear , c 
wise the plants will suffer. It i* simply 
to~say that flowers can be planted over ^ 
of standard Roses, if the Roses a 





April 21, 1883,] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


87 


properly fed. Bush Roses on the contrary fill 
the space they occupy completely, and there need 
be no bare earth. The space a bush Rose 
occupies is very similar to what it occupies as a 
standard. 

Amateurs buy standards through bad taste 
and through ignorance. They do not know how 
to lay their gardens out in picturesque fashion, 
mistaking the false and paltry order of line and 
rule, and plants at regular intervals, for the true 
order of Nature. They are also taken by the 
size of budded plants, and in many cases are 
wholly ignorant of the nature of their purchases. 
If they purchase their plants from men like a 
practical man, who have an enthusiastic adrnira- 
tion for a certain form of plant, they cannot be 
expected to be capable of forming a correct 
judgment. “A Practical Man" will find in 
•' The Amateur's Rose Hook ’’ all he has told us 
about Roses on Brier stocks, and a good deal 
more which will I hope enable him to supply 
own-root Roses at a cheap rate. The following 
quotations are so valuable that I cannot refrain 
from making them :— 

•• When the branches consist of one plant and 
the roots of another, as must be the case with 


will be renewed from the roots, and thus for all 
practical purposes they may be considered in¬ 
destructible. It is an objection to own-root Roses 
that in the first two seasons they grow slowly, 
and that is the only objection ever raised that is 
worth the consideration of a reasonable being. 
They are said to be difficult to produce, but that 
is untrue, and a trade grower should be the very 
last to give currency to the ridiculous doctrine 
that there is any difficulty in obtaining own-root 
Hoses from buds or cuttings. 

“ Dwarf Roses are worthy of more attention 
thnn they obtain from amateurs, for as a rule 
they are considered very inferior things as com¬ 
pared with standards, even if the latter are of 
the consumptive, bogey, broom-stick, worn-out, 
bottle-brush kind frequently met with in the 
front gardens of suburban villas. Let us plant, 
say a dozen of the more robust-habited l’erpetuals 
on their own roots in a border of deep, rich 
loam at about 5 feet apart in a straight line. For 
the sake of being concise, we will suppose them 
to consist of such sorts as La France, Jules 
Margottin, Baroness Rothschild, and Victor 
Verdier. These may be bought, perhaps, in pots, 
and planted in April or May, and have regular 


for lovers of a garden, and all available occu¬ 
pants, single and double. J. D. 


A COTTAGE IN SOMERSETSHIRE. 

The pleasant country house here illustrated is 
placed on the brow of a hill overlooking a pas¬ 
toral Somersetshire valley. The trees by which 
it is protected from the north winds form an 
effective background to the thatched roof and 
verandah, and from many points of view it forms 
one of the most pleasing features in the peace¬ 
ful landscape, with which it iB entirely in har¬ 
mony. The garden has long been well cared 
for; it is planted with hardy flowers which, 
coming up year after year in the well-known 
spot, become as much a part of the home as the 
house itself. In this garden are several plants 
which, until the recent revival in favour of hardy 
flowers, were almost unknown. The small but wel l 
arranged hardy fernery is very good, and a line of 
stones overgrown with Ferns and yellow Welsh 
Poppy (Meconopsis cambrica) makes a very 
beautiful edging to the shrubbery. The garden 
is protected by a ha-ha, the wall of which has 
become beautiful with a luxuriant growth of 



Brier Roses, there is more or less of conflict 
between them ; but own-root Roses are all of a 
piece, and roots and branches always agree in 
their times of growing, and their respective 
duties to each other. A singular advantage of 
own-root Roses is that if they throw up suckers 
they are so much gain to the garden, which is a 
very different case to that of suckers from Briers, 
that are a nuisance in any way, and may prove 
destructive in the end. 

“ Another singular advantage of own-root 
Roses is, that in the event of a destructive frost, 
such as for instance occurred in the winter of 
1860-61, they are likely to suffer only a little in¬ 
jury, whereas Brier Roses are likely to be killed 
outright, as actually occurred, and to a tremen¬ 
dous extent in that disastrous winter. 

“ It is worthy of observation that if the frost 
kills a tree to the ground, the roots may be 
spared, and may in due time renew the plant. 
And here we may see the difference in value of 
the two sorts of Roses in the event of a destruc¬ 
tive frost. Those that were on Brier storks are 
gone entirely, because tmesiuflmrs will bespit 
worthless Briers; but t %pei 4p)l ei wi| loots 


supplies of water until July, to promote free 
growth from the first; cr they may be bought 
in the shape of strong bushes in October, and 
be then planted. In the following month of 
March they should be moderately pruned, but 
far less severely than it is the practice of 
gardeners to prune them. Say all the long rods 
are shortened to one half their length, and all 
the little twigs that bore flowers last year are 
removed altogether. By this course of treat¬ 
ment they will in time form large, compact 
bushes, producing Roses of fine quality in great 
profusion, and in beauty of contour and richness 
of bloom probably surpassing by many degrees 
all the standard Roses in the district." 

These quotations are sufficient to show the 
opinion of own-root Roses formed by one of the 
beet known and most successful amateur ex¬ 
hibitors. 

I will endeavour with the editor's permission 
to give some illustrations of own-root Roses in 
bloom which will enable the readers of Garden¬ 
ing to judge of their appearanceduring the coming 
season, at the same time, I must say that I do 
not pretend to write for lovers of the Rose, but 


rock plants; this, backed by a border of Lilies 
and such like flowers, forms the foreground in 
the sketch; the projecting stoneB and iron hand¬ 
rail make a convenient and picturesque stairway 
to the fields beyond. When last there I noticed 
an A raucaria, hideous and stunted as an Arau¬ 
caria sometimes is, quite glorified by a healthy 
plant of Canary flower, which bad found its way 
into the branches and concealed its bore ugli¬ 
ness with a mass of yellow blossoms. This gar¬ 
den shows how much individuality and interest 
may be displayed in quite a small space when 
thought and loving care are bestowed upon it. 

A. P. 


SHADING PLANT HOUSES. 

Few practical men are in favour of what may be 
called permanent shading—that is, shading put 
on at the commencement of the summer and 
allowed to remain as long as shading is required 
except in the case of such structures as ferneries 
and perhaps conservatories, but maDy have never¬ 
theless to adopt it because it is the cheapest. It 
may therefore lie of some service to point out one 
or two substances that are available for that 

URBA NA-CHAMPA IGN 



















S8 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[April 21, 1883. 


purpose. For those who do not require a dense 
shade “ summer cloud ” is in every way satis¬ 
factory ; it is not expensive, and it is easily ap¬ 
plied. The glass must be quite clean and dry, 
and it must be put on inside. I have used it for 
greenhouse and other plants that do not require 
very thick shading, and I find it to answer. I 
find that it will remain on the glass the whole 
summer, and, when necessary it is not difficult 
to remove. Tiffany affords a very good shade 
for most plants; it diffuses a fair amount of 
light and has not an unsightly appearance. It 
is also easy to fix on the inside of all wooden 
framed houses. Fix it to the rafters, a plan 
■which allows a current of air to pass between 
the shading and the glass, thus allowing the 
heated air to escape more readily than when the 
shading is fixed to the sash-bars. Some kinds of 
tiffany are subjected to a chemical preparation 
which is said to make it more durable, but I 
have not found it better in that respect than the 
ordinary material. 

I have found the following mixture a good 
substitute for either of the above, though not 
quite equal to them, viz ., three quarts of skim 
milk, one pound of whiting, and 3 ounces or 4 
ounces of glue dissolved, the milk being heated, 
but not boiled, and the whole mixed together and 
applied to the inside of the glass while the 
mixture is warm and the glass dry. I may re¬ 
mark, however, that this mixture is not so easily 
removed in the autumn as plain limewash or 
“ summer cloud.” For permanent outside shad¬ 
ing perhaps nothing is better than a netting 
manufactured for the purpose by a firm in Corn¬ 
wall. This is white in colour, composed of small 
• meshes, and made with a strong thread. Its ap¬ 
pearance, therefore, is light, and it is also durable, 
and affords a fair amount of shade without 
obstructing too much light. 

The best form of shading is, however, blinds 
and rollers, and where expense is not taken into 
consideration, these should be used in preference 
i o any other material, as they enable the culti¬ 
vator to treat his plants in a proper manner. 
Where there are roller blinds to be drawn down 
at pleasure, there is no necessity to shade the 
plants when it is not wanted : but with shading 
fixed either inside or outside it must of necessity 
remain there on dull days as well as when the 
Min shines brightly, therefore the plants are 
shaded, taking an average of seasons, a very much 
longer time than is absolutely necessary. A good 
deal depends of course on the consistency of the 
permanent shading ; but one can hardly estimate 
the extent of injury which overshading does in 
t he case of a mixed collection of plants. Dealing 
with a houseful of Camellias or Ferns that 
require dense shade is much more easy than a 
houseful of stove plants consisting of hard- 
wooded and flowering plants and tender foliaged 
exotics mixed together. Moveable blinds should 
always be employed for such houses, but some¬ 
thing may be done by placing at one end of the 
house such as require the most shade, always 
bearing in mind that the farther plants are from 
the glass the less shading is necessary. The 
farther plants are from the glass the larger is 
the vacuum of air through which the sun’s rays 
have to travel, and their force is moderated in 
proportion. Therefore the nearer tender foliaged 
plants are to the glass, the greater should be the 
thickness of the shade to maintain their leaves 
in a healthy condition. J. C. C. 

VEGETABLES: 

Spinach in small gardens.—I would 
like to see this more generally grown in small 
and middle-class gardens than it is. Of all 
vegetables it is one of the easiest to grow, and 
the quickest to arrive at maturity. Seed of it 
is cheap and generally good, and it will often 
grow luxuriantly, even in cool, shady comers 
where most other vegetables would fail. On this 
account we have sometimes grown it in the 
worst parts of the garden, but we find it to be 
so much appreciated that it cannot be too well 
grown, and now we put it in some of our best 
soil. It may be had all the year round from 
the open air, and this is more than can be said 
regarding any other choice vegetable. In sum¬ 
mer it becomes ready for use in a month or so 
after sowing the seed, but at this season it takes 
a week or two longer. Seed sown at once would 
supply fine succulent leaves seon after Whit¬ 
suntide, and sowiy m<N Ira# every fort¬ 


night until the end of August, a supply might 
be had weekly until far into next spring. Where 
ground is scarce, it may be sown broadcast, and 
when the plants are a few inches high part of 
them may bo drawn out and used, the remainder 
being left to grow and form as it were a succes- 
sional crop. Where ground is more plentiful, 
it is best sown 1 foot or so apart. Here, again, 
the plants may be thinned in the row’s, and used 
before the others are ready. Another plan with 
Spinach is to sow it in small.fruit plantations, such 
as between Gooseberries, Currants, Raspberries, 
k Strawberries, and similar crops. We have also had 
it between Asparagus rows before the latter re¬ 
quired all the ground, but it is well worthy of a 
piece of soil to itself, and I only mention these 
extra places for the benefit of those who may 
think they cannot give up one of their main 
quarters to it. In hot dry weather it is rather 
inclined to run early to flower, but this occurs 
more readily and oftener on poor soil than on 
that which is good. It is the round-seeded 
variety which is best for summer use, and the 
prickly one is the most suitable for winter. The 
drills for the reception of the seed need not be 
more than 2 inches deep, and for the winter 
crop the plants should always be thinned out 
sufficiently to stand clear of each other before 
the shortest days.—J. M. 

Peas In succession. —I fail altogether to 
see what benefit can result from following the 
plan of successional sowing of Peas as advised 
by “ W. J. M.” There is probably not one prac¬ 
tical gardener in a thousand that would follow 
such a plan, and what gardeners will not do 
it is not wise to advise cottagers to adopt. If a 
piece of ground be prepared ever so well for 
Peas, it will only fairly produce one crop, 
whether that crop be sown successionally or all 
at once, as is the rule. “W. J. M.” mentions 
that the successional plan is to sow thinly an 
early kind, then afterwards dibble in a second 
crop kind, and still later follow with a third 
kind. Now it is absurd to suppose that in this 
way the same space of ground really carries 
three crops of Peas ; the crop from the first early 
kind can only be proportionate to the seed sown, 
that is, one third; the second crop the same, and 
the third ditto, so that three distinct sowings 
gives after all but one good crop. In addition 
to that, the rootsof the first having got possession, 
those of the second are partially dispossessed, 
and the third sowing finding the root space quite 
pre-occupied have little chance whatever, because 
they come into the soil so late. Then it is not 
possible to get more Peas in this way or to save 
soil or sticks. The same quantity of Peas, sown 
just as advised by “ W. J. M.,” would, if sown 
separately, only require the same extent of 
ground and the same quantity of sticks, whilst 
there would be this advantage in the separate 
sowing, that the earliest sown crop could be re¬ 
moved, and the ground cleared nearly a month 
before any portion could be so cleared if the Peas 
were sown successionally as advised. Such 
cleared ground could be used at once for Celery, 
Coleworts, or other crops. Probably the cottager, 
whose plan “ W. J. M.” admires, thinks that in 
his roundabout way he is achieving a great 
economy, but the notion is purely deceptive. 
Very much less exception could be taken if 
three successional kinds of the same height were 
sown all at once, but as I have shown there is 
nothing in the plan that is meritorious.—A. D. 

Windsor Beans —It is not my intention 
to speak of the different kinds of Windsor 
Beans, which any seedsman's catalogue will 
give, but how best to produce a good crop of 
well filled pods. They should have good soil that 
has been manured the previous year. The plot 
should be open and if possible sloping towards the 
south. Many young gardeners think that because 
Windsor Bean seeds are large they should be 
planted deeply; the consequence is that by the 
time the main stalk is a foot high a number of 
young shoots or suckers spring up all round the 
parent stem and rob the plant of that nourish¬ 
ment that should go to feed the pods. This is 
more frequently the case in wet seasons, when I 
have known many stalks not to pod at all for 
want of sun and through bad planting (sowing). 
Drills should be drawn across the plot, 2 feet 
apart and about 1 inch or li inches deep, and 
the seeds should be dropped in singly, a foot 
apart in the drills, and then covered up with 
soil. When the plants have attained their full 
height it is well to nip off the tops of the plants 


so as to help the pods to fill, and also to keep 
down black aphis which sometimes seeks pro¬ 
tection and shelter on the tops of Bean stalks. 
—G. C., Ecclct. 

3555.— Grubs in Onions— Sulphuric add 
is a good and effectual preventive. It is only 
available for small crops however, the cost 
being rather heavy. In autumn the ground 
should have a good watering with sulphuric add, 
diluted with about twelve times its bulk of 
water. This is expensive, as the acid is about 
3d. per pound, but is effect usd, as it will kill 
every living thing in and on the soil, both animal 
and vegetable. Nitrate of soda should be applied 
at the rate of 4 cwt. to the acre, or, for safety, 
rather less than that quantity, but not more than 
three times in the season, and only when the 
foliage is dry. If just before a shower so much 
the better, otherwise it should be watered in. 
Wherever nitrate touches a wet spot on the 
foliage it burns or shrivels it. Soot and salt, 
applied in the proportion of 2 cwt. of salt and 
40 bushels of clean soot to the acre as a broad¬ 
cast dressing, will tend to prevent the fly, but it 
should be done early in the season. After th« 
Onions are attacked they cannot be saved; but 
by destroying all infested plants, the second 
crop of grubs will be prevented. The author of 
a book, entitled “ Garden Pests and their Eradi¬ 
cation,” writes that he once applied gypsum at 
the rate of a ton to the acre in dry weather, and 
the cure was effectual, but the ground had to be 
hoed after the first rain. It is a cheap remedy, 
the author continues, if it be found to answer 
generally ; but as to this he cannot speak, as he 
had only one chance of using it. The grubs are 
all dead in the plants about a couple of days 
after the application.— Celeb et Audax. 


9544.— Scale on Pear tree.—When the 
scale has taken such a fearful hold upon fruit 
trees that all customary remedies fail to effect a 
cure, there seems to be but one other remedy, 
and that is to cut down the trees and bum them. 
It is evident that when trees get into such a pes¬ 
tilent state, they must have been greatly 
neglected, and their culture must have been the 
worst possible. A severe remedy short of total 
destruction would be found in scraping the bark 
with an old knife, then scrubbing it with a wire 
brush, and finally painting the entire surface 
with Gisliurst compound or some other strong 
insecticide, or else a solution of paraffin. Then 
the soil about the roots of the trees to a depth 
of 6 inches should be removed and replaced with 
fresh soil from one of the open parts of the gar¬ 
den, and some short manure should be worked 
in to encourage quick action amongst the root*. 
—A. D. 

- From the description, I imagine the 

scale on the Pear trees is known as the Pear tree 
oyster scale (Aspidiotus ostreceformis). Left t0 
itself it covers and smothers the bark and leave 4 , 
and hinders either or both from performing 
their proper functions. The old remedy for this 
formidable evil was a scrubbing-brush and sharp 
sand or strong suds, but a much more simple 
and sure cure is train oil. This at once smothers 
and kills, so that the white or brown scale 
comes off of itself, and the bark that has become 
hard and useless grows soft and pliable, and is 
once more fitted to perform its vital function 
in a proper and satisfactory' manner. The oil 
not only smothers the scale, but renders the 
bark unfit and ungenial to it. There are several 
other insects which attack the Pear, for which 
I shall be glad to give the remedies, should I bo 
mistaken as to the particular insect to which 
M. K. N. Graham refers.— Celeb et Audax. 

9564. — Pruning: wall Pear tree.-A 
young wall-trained Pear tree of any kind should 
have all its strongest shoots or branches laid w 
regularly close to the wall. Tf fan-shaped the 
tree will fill up, as it grows by simply laying in 
other good shoots. If it is to be horizontally 
trained from an upright centre, then the strongest 
centre shoot mu9t be cut back hard, that it may 
break two side shoots and a leader, and so the 
process of cutting back hard to three buds got* 
on till the tree has reached the top of the vail. 
—D. _ 

Vol. I. " Gardening ” is out of print, and wc «« 
therefore unable to further supply either 
or bowutl VBt4jjM, wl 1 u r * B 


\pril 21 , 1883 .] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


89 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

9548.—Grass land.— It is evident that in 
turning' in grass sward to convert it into vegetable 
land the grass should be buried of sufficient 
dwpth at the first to enable the surface to be 
■worked freely without bringing the turf to the 
rop. To secure this desideratum the ground 
should, not be dug but half trenched, paring off 
the turf to a depth of 3 inches, throwing that 
into the bottom of the trench, chopping it some¬ 
what, and then turning a spit of soil not less 
ihan 10 inches thick over on to the turf, the crumbs 
being shovelled clean out and the bottom broken 
up to a depth of some 8 inches or 9 inches. So 
treated, the soil is not only worked 2 feet in 
depth but the turf being long in decaying really 
becomes valuable manure. It is very wise, however, 
to sprinkle the turf when turned in thinly with salt 
to destroy wireworm, which is invariably plenti¬ 
ful in old grass sward. When turf land has 
been so treated the surface can be forked over 
to a depth of several inches, and will thus form 
a good seed-bed, or receive Potatoes or plants. 
In the present case, the grass being imperfectly 
buried some sacrifice must be made now in fork- 
ing the surface to keep the turf down, as if 
brought to the top the turf will either have to 
be entirely removed, or it will either grow if the 
weather becomes rainy, or it will dry up and 
die if drought with east wind continues. In the 
latter case, if well beaten about, so that all soil 
is removed from the grass, it will soon wither 
up, and be of little further trouble. As buried 
turf is not an active stimulant, it is well to add 
a little short manure in forkingover the surface. 
—A. D. 

9543.— Coloured glass for conserva¬ 
tory. —Although the introduction of coloured 
glass into plant houses is objectionable in many 
ways, and especially so in strong sunlight, as 
it sheds over the plants most unnatural hues, 
yet, where a greenhouse abuts on the high road, 
and it is desired to keep the interior private, it 
may be thought desirable to employ for the 
purpose opaque coloured glass of some kind. A 
simple method, and one that has a pleasing 
look without introducing unnatural colours into 
the glass, is to get some floral pictures, such as 
those issued weekly with The Garden, neatly cut 
out the flower picture, paste it carefully on to 
the glass and in the centre of each pane, and 
then very neatly and finely stipple the glass 
over inside, and on the back of the picture as 
well, with stone coloured or French grey paint. 
This would prove opaque to parsers by, would 
last many years, give ou the outside a very pleas¬ 
ing aspect, and lend no unnatural lmc of colour 
to the house.—A. D. 

-Doubtless the patent glacier window 

decorations are what is enquired for. They are 
manufactured by McCaw, Stevenson, & Orr, Bel¬ 
fast. A.j Brown & Son, Savile Street, Hull, are 
agents, from whom illustrated price list can be 
had on application.—W. 

-The process mentioned by your correspon¬ 
dent is called either decalcomanio or vitramanie, 
both expensive and troublesome to work on 
glass, already fixed especially. I would recom¬ 
mend him to use the glacier window decora¬ 
tion, as far more simple and effective, and 
difficult to tell from real stained glass. I have 
used it myself, so can speak as to its merits.— 
J. T. F. 

9521 — G-entiana acaulis from seed.— 
The best way to grow this from seed is to pur¬ 
chase a plant in the first instance, and save the 
seed, sowing it in pots of light loam as soon as 
ripe, and direct from the seed pods, it will then 
germinate in a few weeks. A bell-glass should be 
placed over the pots to keep the soil from drying j 
up, otherwise the pots or pans should be placed 
in a cold frame. The earth should not be allowed 
to get dry. Unless a very large quantity of 
plants are wanted it is needless to raise seedlings. 
Big out a space of about. 18 inches square, and 
♦ill it with loam and leaf-mould, mixed with 
-tones about the size of half and quarter bricks. 
Plant the plants firmly in the middle of the 
•pace, and do not allow them to be parched 
in dry weather. Water with cold water. With 
this treatment the plants will spread under and 
amongst the stones with short suckers, coming 
up as small plants all round, every one of these 
-an be rooted, and will make a plant.—J. D. 

3562.—Thorn hedge. -/fRe farmers.in jny, 
neighbourhood are very 


Thorn hedges. The ground is dug and manured 
before the plants are put in, and they are allowed 
to grow for two years without being touched by 
the knife. About the third year or so, if they 
have made a fair growth, they are shortened 
about one-half or less, and all the side branches 
and shoots are cut back at the same time, and 
to the same extent. I understand that the 
reason they are let alone the first two years is to 
allow them to make good roots. Every year, 
generally during open win ter weather, the ground 
at the roots is carefully dug over, and all grass 
and weeds removed. The hedges which receive 
this attention have a uniform thickness down to 
the surface of the ground. This is on a heavy 
clay soil, but the results might be different in 
soil of a lighter description.—1*. R. 

9567.— Covering for Tulips.— Assuming 
the covering for beds of Tulips is meant to be 
one overhead, the best plan would be to erect a 
span-shaped framework like for a long tent, the 
sides 4 feet high, and the centre 7 feet high, 
with opening in the centre at either end for ad¬ 
mission. The centre path between the beds 
should be at least 2 feet wide to admit of free 
perambulation. Over all, just before the blooms 
are ready to open, strain thin, yet strong, can¬ 
vas or stout tiffany. That will give shade, 
shelter from rough winds, and, not least, keep 
off heavy rains. Of course, such covering is 
expensive, but if done at all it is best done well. 
—D. 

9569. — Edging tiles. — Unfortunately I 
cannot give “E. L. M.” the desired information 
as to where edging tiles, or rather bricks, of the 
kind previously described by me can be obtained, 
as I employed them some twenty-five years since 
in a very diverse part of the country, and cannot 
now remember where they were made. I believe 
they were made specially from a wooden pattern 
supplied. It would not be difficult, though 
perhaps costly, to make tiles of a similar pattern 
in a specially made mould by using a mixture of 
Portland cement and fine washed sand or gravel. 
The tiles referred to were made of hard white 
clay, and proved to be singularly enduring.— 
A. D. 

9512.— Pigeons in gardens. —In reply to 
“ Y. Z.,” “ G. C., Eccles,” writes: ** But I think 
it would be difficult to assess the amount of 
damage that pigeons do in a garden, as it would 
be so small.’’ Allow me to say that my experi¬ 
ence is very different from that; I have had to 
give up keeping pigeons (high flying Tumblers) 
on account of the injury they do my garden 
crops. I have kept something like a dozen, and 
they have completely destroyed my garden. All 
newly sown seeds they consume, and all the 
green crops of Peas, newly planted cabbages, 
and such like they devour bodily—this more 
especially during the breeding season. I find 
them as bad as fowls ; surely mine is not an iso¬ 
lated case. — T. H., West Kirby. 

9548.— New land. —It would perhaps have 
been better to have taken a ceical crop such as 
oats off the ground the first year, and phnted 
Potatoes the second. Any farmer could have 
given useful advice in the circumstances. If, 
however. Potatoes are planted this year, the 
ground will require lobe frequently hoed till they 
have covered the drills to keep down the Grass 
and weeds. If this is attended to, the uprooted 
Grass will probably succumb before the end of 
the season to scorching rays of the summer sun. 
— P. R. 

9566.— ShowPaneies.— In reply to “AnId 
Reekie, No. 2,” I consider the following eighteen 
show Pansies (excluding 1883 varieties) first- 
class flowers : Mrs. Cadzon, Mrs. Dobbie, white 
seifs; Artemis, Rev. J. Morrison, dark seifs; 
Gomar, Geo. M’Millan, yellow seifs; Fair Maid, 
Jeannie Grieve, Jessie Foote, Miss Barr, Miss 
Meikle, Mrs. Ritchie, white grounds; D. Dalg¬ 
lish, J.B. Robertson, John AViaterston, R. Pollock, 
Thos. Ritchie, Wm. Robin, mellow grounds.—J. 
G. Paul, Pauley. 

9550.—Crickets —If “ Subscriber” will use 
every night a little of Townson’s cricket powder 
(which I get from them at Altrincham), he will 
clear his house in a night or two. It has been a 
blessing to me. Having to grow early Cucum¬ 
bers, I used to find them eaten off in the morning, 
which every grower knows is a great loss. Now 
I can rely on them being all right, for I never 
see a cricket or cockroach. Every gardener 


ought to have it by him in case these pests visit 
him.—J. W., Burton. 

-I will simply give “A Subscriber’’ my ex¬ 
perience, and I think if he adopts the same plan 
he will find it successful. I detest crickets, and 
yet our neighbourhood is infested with them, 
but the moment I find one on my premises, 
either in the house or garden, I find out where it 
is located, which can easily be done by listening, 
I then insert (by various means, according to 
the position) a small quantity of Keating s or 
any other insect powder, sending it thoroughly 
into the hole or crevice by means of a small pair 
of kitchen bellows, and then watch for the 
cricket or crickets'to crawl out (which they will 
do directly they smell the powder) when I put 
my foot on them and destroy them. I have tried 
this repeatedly in the kitchen, cellar, and garden 
without failure once.— Ferndale. 

9240. — British-grown Tobacco. — In 

1832 I saw a large field of Tobacco in front of a 
farmhouse about five miles south of the city of 
Cork. In passing, I stopped to admire the luxu¬ 
riant growth and bright green colour of the 
large plants. I afterwards heard many expres¬ 
sions of regret, not unmixed with anger, that so 
promising an industry should be prohibited by 
the authorities.—A. B. 

9556.— Sulphate of ammonia.— This is 
a most valuable stimulant for soft-wooded plants 
when the pots are well filled with roots. I use 
a tablespoonful to a gallon of water. I tried it 
last season, and had some of the largest trusses 
of Geraniums I ever saw, also Primulas.—J. W. 
Burton. 

0546.— Fungus on Portugal Laurel.— 1 The best 
preventive is to keep the plant subject to it occasionally 
syringed with a decoction of Elder leaves, which will pre¬ 
vent the fungus growing on them.—C elek et Aupax. 

9560.— Weeds on tennis ground.—I should advise 
a Btrong application of comraoD salt where the weeds are 
troublesome.— Another Tennis Player. 


Flower bed.— We should think your best course 
would be to write to the principal or have an interview 
with him, intimating that unless the nuisance ceases you 
will sue him for damages. 

Euonymus with berries. — Phool Bagh. — Pro¬ 
bably EuonjmiiB latifolius is meant. It can be obtained 
at any good hardy tree nursery. 

Kano .—Xt is Mrs. Rundell, not Run die.- A. Jeffrey*. 

—If you will send us a bloom and leaves of the Bignonia 
we will endeavour to name it, but we cannot do so from 

your description.- Vicar .—Pinch at one or two points 

beyond the bunch, i.«., leave one or two leaves past the 
bunch according as there is room for development of the 

foliage.- E. D. Taylor.— Try Mr. Ware, Hale Farm, 

Tottenham. London, N.- B. 0. J.— Try Messrs, forty, 

Soper, Fowlor, & Co., Finsbury Street.- Novice.— “Ele¬ 

mentary Botany,” by Henry Edmonds. London : Spottis- 

woode & Co., New Street Square.- W. Byku r. Tlio 

Auricula Show at South Kensington will be held on Tuos- 
day, April 24, and at Regent’s Park, April 25. The covers 
for Gardening can be supplied as usual. 

Names of plants.— Mr*. B. B— Sparmanniaafri- 

cana.- T. L.— 1, Species of Oxalis; 2, Mescmbryuntile- 

mum species.-Anon.—1, PimeleaspectabiUs; 2, species 

of Nephrodium : Pteris semi-pinnaU.- H. C. Tucker.— 

Bignonia unguis.- Kembraze.— Eucalyptus globulus. 

- Phool Bagh. — Nephrolepis exaltata.— Woods.— We 

cannot mime.- F. W. Thompson. — Allium neapoli- 

tauura.- Sun ray.—I, Phyllocactus, but we cannot »,iy 

which variety; 2, Solanum capsicastruin; 2, Gardenia 
intermedia. _ 


QUERIES. 


Rulea for Correspondents.— All communica¬ 
tions for insertion should be clearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
and address of the sender is required , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece of paper. Oioing to the necessity of 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the. 
day of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again . 

JM506.— Rosea for beds.—I wish to plant two beds 
of Roses, and shall be very much obliged for information 
upon the subject The beds are cut in a lawn sloping to 
the south, sheltered from the east and north, and the soil 
is very light and gravelly. I dial! be glad to know what 
will be tho ImjbI kinds to plant for cut bloom, and algo 
for garden decoration. I prefer dwarf Roses ; do they 
flower as well ns standards, and are they as likely to do 
well? What preparation will the soil require? it lias 
been in use for ordinary bedding flowers for many years. 
Abo what is the best time to plant, ami what distance 
apart? I want to plant now, if the time is suitable. I 
shall also be glad of any hints for future culture, a* 
regards pruning, watering, and manuring. Will liquid 
manure from stable drainage Ik* good for them undiluted 
when they arc first planted ? Pro. 

9607.—Hose house.—1 have a span-roofed Rose 
house, 12 feet by 12 feet, side walls 4 feet, and plenty of_ 
top ventilation. I planted it with Roses in October 188J, 
the plants made n poor weak growth the first year, the 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[April 21 , 1885 . 


second likewise, and this year worfe, I may say quite a 
failure. They are planted in a mixture of good loam, 
leaf-soil, and manure, equal parts. The temperature I 
keep is 45° or 50° by night, and of course a little higher 
by day. It is heated with a flue all round. On the flue I 
have moisture pam kept filled with water. The aspect 
of my house is east and west. The roots are kept supplied 
with plenty of water. Any hints for the improvement of 
my Roses will be gladly received.—U nfortunate. 

9608.— Geraniums and Roses.— I have a green¬ 
house heated with hot-water pipes, and all the Geranium 
blooms I have had up to the present time this year have 
faded as soon as the bud expanded. I have about forty 
blooms at present, and every bloom is brown at theedges. 

I also have two Marshal Niel Roses, which were budded 
on a John Hopper last year. They are planted in the soil 
under the front stage of the greenhouse one at each end. 
There are two shoots about 10 feet long, the leaves are 
mildewed. They have not flowered this season. Would 
someone tell me what is wrong with my Ruses and 
Geraniums ?—Presto. 

oeoo.— Chrysanthemums'* for open air. —Will 
Eotne reader kindly tell me which of the following Chry¬ 
santhemums are most suitable for flowering in the open 
air? Queen of England, General Bainbiidge, Mount 
Edgcumbe, Felicity, Pink Perfection, Jnrdin des Plantes 
(bronze and yellow), Lady Talfourd, Countess of Derby, 
white and pink Venus, Mrs. George Rundell, Mrs. Dixon, 
Julia Lagravere, Alma, Flngal, Mrs Haliburton, Elaine, 
James Salter, Fair Maid of Guernsey ? The cuttings were 
put in during the second week in February, and the 
plants are now in 4-inch pots. What is the smallest sized 
pots in which they can be properly flowered?—V arun A. 

9610. — Pruning' Rossb in pots.—I have some young 
Rose plants in pots, on the Manetti, which I pruned 
moderately a month since, the top shoots are now form¬ 
ing buds, but the lower eyes are merely bursting, and the 
plants look too long and stalky. Would it be well to 
prune them back to 10 inches or 12 inches now, or leave 
them until the first bloom is over and then prune hard 
back on last season’s growth ? 1 am not particular about 
the time of flowering nor the quantity of flowers, but 
would like to lay the foundation for good strong plants. 
Any information will oblige.—M. V. 

9611. —Me rectal Nlel Rose.—Can any reader tell 
me what is the cause of the leaves and many of the buds 
falling off my Mardchal Mel Rose ? I fancy the hot sun 
scorched the foliage last month ; but it has been shaded 
ever since the buds first began to show. Hie tree was 
planted in the greenhouse two years ago, and has spread 
about V0 feet. It is in a corner and possibly the roots 
had not room or the ground was not prepared sufficiently 
deep and wide. I hear, however, others are complaining 
of the fame thing. Last year the tree flowered splendidly. 
—Lea Bridge. 

9612. —Planting bulbs in the Grass.—I have this 
year planted bulbs in beds, but should like to put them 
in the Grass when they have died down. They are Tulips, 
large single Hyacinths, Narcissi, Jonquils, St ill as, Cro¬ 
cuses, Snowdrops, Aconites, Anemones, and Ranunculuses. 
Will it spoil any of these to plant and leave them per¬ 
manently in the Grass, as wherever possible I so much 
prefer leaving things to come up year after 3 ear, but I 
do not wish to risk losing them ?—Buds and Blossoms. 

9613 —Htemanthus coccineus. — Will someone 
kindly tell me how to grow and flower the above plant? 

1 have had one about five years. It starts w'ell, but when 
the two leaves are about six inc hes long they turn yellow 
and decay. 1 bought another bulb last year (a very fine 
one); it is now about the same size, but although it has 
not. yet begun to turn, It does not seem to grow. I shall 
he greatly obliged to anyone who will tell me how to 
treat it.—A. S. C. 

9014.—Walnuts and Filberts.—In November last 
I bought some very tine English Walnuts, also some 
Kentish Filberts, and kept them through the winter and 
planted them the flist week in April. What I want to 
know is, if either of them will ever bear fruit without 
grafting? and if so, how many years old must either of 
them be before 1 may expect them to do so ? and what 
treatment must they receive ?—Ignoramus. 

9615. —Deer’s-foot Fern.—I have had a Polypodium 
glaucum (Deer s-foot Fern) since last August. It has 
only produced two or three fronds about an inch high. 

I have kept it iu a window facing south, shaded from 
the hot suu. It is potted in a compost of leaf-mould, 
sand, and a little garden moulu, but it is not thriving. 

I should be glad if anyone would tell me how I should 
treat it, and what kind of soil it should have?—A nxious. 

9616. —Hyacinthus candicans and Orchids — 
May the seeds of Hyacinthus candicans be sown now, and 
in what soil, situation, drc. ? Will it bear forcing? Also, 
can Phalienopsis amabilis, Peristeria elata, and Cattleya 
crispa be kept moist by a little tin of water overhead, 
perforated to let a drop fall every few minutes? Are 
they apt to rot if Moss is tied round the roots?— 
STRETTON. 

9617. —Gloire de Dijon Rose.—A portion of buds 
on the above Rose have turned black and died off. 
Would syringing in the evening cause this, and should I 
cut off those sprays? How often must this Rose be 
re potted? Any hints upon correct treatment will be 
appreciated. It is twelve months old and on Brier stock. 
—J. T. F. 

9618. —Cinder tennis court.— Would “A Tennis 
Player ” (query 9560) kindly inform me how he keeps his 
court in order, and the best method of inducing the ash 
(mine is fine cinders) to bind firmly ? Is there any way to 
obviate the need of constant watering in hot weather ? 
Any hints would be most acceptable.—A nother Tennis 
Player. 

9619. —Forming flower beds.—Will some practical 
reader please inform me the best method to cut out a 
circular bed, and also four half-moon shaped beds round 
it? Also what annuals will suit these beds to the 
best advantage ? Our village is situated on the borders 
of Derbyshire, Cheshire, and Staffordshire. — North 
CHESHIRE. 

3620. —Eu char Is no t flowering.—I should be glad 
of information aaf to flowering !he Kuthaiis. I have kept 
the plants in b^sk he Jll[ ^Inter. They are 


full of healthy foliage, and the large pots are crowded 
with bulbs, but no appearance of bloom. 1 wanted them 
to bloom in winter.—A mateur, Selby. 

9621. —Cool Orchids.—I should like to know the 
experience of those amateurs who have grown cool 
house Orchids, how they succeeded, what temperature 
they require, also time for re-potting and soil required, 
and names of a few of the easiest managed Borta?— 
R T. H. 

9622. —Storingf bulbs —What ought to be done with 
bulbs when taken up after the foliage is dead ? Should 
they be put in the sun or in the dark to dry, and how 
preserved afterwards till the autumn ?They are Daffodils, 
Jonquils, Crocuses, Ac.—P ug. 

9623. — Evergreen hedge for town.—I shall he 
glad to know what kind of evergreen shrub would form 
a hedge in front of a town garden in a sunny square, and 
what kind of flowering plants and annuals would do well 
in the balconies facing south during summer.—M. M. Y. 

9624. —Cutting back Rhododendrons.— I have 
just transplanted some hybrid Rhododendrons which 
have grown long and straggly. Will it be safe to cut 
them back now, say 2 feet, they are about 4 feet high T 
-E. W. C. 

9625. —Annuals and perennials for cut flowers. 
—Will someone give a list of a few good hardy aunuals 
and perennials to supply cut flowers, and what would be 
the best to be grown for green foliage to mix with the 
flowers?—T. W. 

9626. —Moving old Tew tree.— I shall feel obliged 
for any information to enable me to remove an old Yew 
tree, almost 200 years old, so that it can be transplanted. 

I believe this can be done. Early information will be 
esteemed.—F. H. Peters. 

9627. — Red spider.- This affected my Vines, Peach, 
and Nectarine trees iB the house very much last year, 
and, although I tried sulphur and syringing, it was only 
partially effective. What is the best preventive?—C on¬ 
stant Reader. 

9628. - Deodars going rusty.—I have three Deodars 
on my lawn which are looking a little rusty. Would it 
improve them to remove the earth from around (he roots 
and apply a dressing of fresh soil ?-S. C. S. 

9629. —Reman Hyacinths.—Can anyone tell me if 
Roman Hyacinths are lmrdy ? I have planted those 
forced in the greenhouse in the garden, and they have 
failed to come up.—R. G., Norfolk. 

0030.—Preserving leaves and flowers — Can any 
reader tell mo of a book that gives information as to the 
method of collecting and preserving the leaves and 
flowers of plants?—T. S. 

9631. — Preserving Rose leaves. — Would any 
reader kindly inform me how to preserve Rose leaves 
so that they will retain their scent win n diicd?— Rose 
Leaf. 

9632. —Hyacinths.—I planted Hyacinth bulbs early 
in March. Is it likely that they will flower before June, 
and ought they to be taken uj> afterwards or left in the 
ground?— E. M. 

9633. -Apple trees from seed.—I sowed some 
Apple pips in a 3-inch pot. They are now up nicely, and 
look very healthy. How should I treat them in future? 

-1.11. 

9634. —Plants for greenhouse —What plants can I 
grow succcsslully in a house fitted with hot-water pipes, 
only getting the sun from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. ?—L. C. 

9635. —Climbers under trees. — Could anyone 
recommend a good, hardy, quick growing plant 'to cover 
a trellis in a shady situation under trees ?—E. W. C. 

9636. — Greenhouse floors. — I am putting up a 
house 45J feet by 12 feet. Could anyone advise me as too 
best material for the pathways ?—E. YV. C. 

9637. —Ridge Cucumbers.—WJ11 someone kindly 
tell me the best way to grow ridge Cucumbers? Is it too 
early to sow in a box under a sheet of glass ?—Warum. 

9638. —Treatirent of Auriculas.—How pm I to 
treat offshoots of Auricula in 3-inch pot in a cold green¬ 
house?—J. H. 

6639 -Mealy-bug.—What is the best remedy for 
mealy-bug, both outdoor and under glass, on Peach, 
Nectarine, and Plum tretB?— Constant Reader. 

9640. —Bignonia capreolata.—Is this suitable for 
pot culture In a cold lrouBe, and what treatment is re¬ 
quired ?—J. T F. 

9641. —Aspidistra ©latior. — Can anyone tell me 

what this plant is, and treatment required for same — 
J. T. F. f 

9642. — Rochea falcata.—Will some reader give the 
proper treatment of this plant bo as to make it flower 
every year ?—Tot. 

9643. —Ferns In viDery.—Can anyone inform me 
what is the proper treatment of Maidm hair Ferns in a 
vinery? I cannot get mine to thrive.—E. M. 

9644. —Myrtles.—When do these bloom, and what is 
the requisite treatment.—J. T. F. 

9645. —American Hop.—Will some one kindly de¬ 
scribe a plant called the American Hop?— Harston. 

9046.—Woodlice.—What can be done to get rid of 
woodlice from a dairy where they abound ?—Subscriber. 


POULTRY. 

Profit from fowls.— If there be any doubt 
respecting fowls paying well when kept in a 
suitable place, the following account kept from 
February 22, 1882, to February 21, 1883, will 
dispel the doubt. The fowls are mostly a cross 
between black Spanish and black Hamburghs 
and a few mixed sorts. These are kept in a 
clean, well ventilated house, and the birds have 
a good grass run on land that may some time be 
used for building purposes, but which would 


not be put to any useful purpose at present were 
it not given over to the fowls. Coat of elever 
pullets and cock, ill 19s.; cost of keep, Ac 
£4 18s. 4d.; interest on cost of fowl-house, run. 
,Vc , 10s.; total, i7 7s. 4d. Eggs laid during the 
year, 1,430 at 9 for Is., the average price 
for year, i7 18s. lOd.; eight chickens killed, 
il 0s. fid.; manure (value), 7s. 6d.; present 
stock of hens and pullets, and three cocks, ill 
total, il2 8s. lOd. Cost of stock (original), 
keep. Arc., £7 7s. 4d; profit on the rear. 
£4 19s. fid.— G. C., Kcclcx. 

Poultry food.— Can “ X. Y. Z.” or anr 
olher reader of Gardening give the address c'f 
a place where chickens' groats can be pur¬ 
chased at 17s. per hundredweight as“X.Y.Z.’ 
states in Gardening of March 31, as 24s. a 
the price at some grocers.— Chicken. 

Black swans.—(’an anyone inform me where I nr 
buy a pair of black cygnets(black swans), and what km!: 
be the probable cost?—S. H. 

Preserved eggs. —Will any reader give me a recip 
for preserving egga in lime and water ? What props 
tlons of lime and water are required I—Crate Ego. 


BIRDS. 

Pood for canaries —I should be glad l» 
know whether lump sugar, or a bit of bread:; 
cake is hurtful to a canary. I have been ven 
unfortunate with my birds, and having just go 
a fresh one, should like to know how best to kttj 
him, as all my others hare died off after two e 
three years. I have been in the habit of giviK 
them such things as named. 1 give eqrni 
quantities of canary, rape, and hemp seed. I a z 
obliged to move the cage night and monur: 
from the window; would that affect the bird, 
health?—A Reader. 

Canaries for singing.—I should advia 
“ G. M.” if he requires a sweet soDgster io pn- 
cure a good Hartz Mountain bird, and let hit 
be particular and see that it is a Hartz Mom 
tain canary, as some dealers who offer them ss 
cheaply sell the ordinary Germans as the Hat! 
birds. It is a great mistake, as there is as muck 
difference as possible : a good Hartz bird's not- 
is exquisite in the extreme, very soft and low. 
and gradually swells out, but is still musical, 
not harsh. I should advise “ G. M.” to go to 
Hawkins, of Leicester Square, or Etable, of Grea: 
Portland Street, both of which are respectable 
dealers, and would not sell him a German as i 
Hartz bird. The price varies from Ids. fid. 
upwards to 30s„ or more according to quality 
If " G. M." cannot get a good one, I shall be 
pleased to let him have one of mine, as I gene 
rally have plenty of these songsters, being ven 
fond of them.—G. W. Singleton, AVeriaiay 
Ion, Middlesex. 

Canary notelnglng —I am not surprise! 
that J. Game cannot induce her canaiv to 
sing; the little fongster is over-fed, or tot fed 
on the light sort of food. I have a canau 
which has lived in a conservatory for rocr 
than ten years, and with the exception of ar 
occasional supply of green food, he has neve? 
had any thing more than canary, rape, ail 
hemp seed, and these in the proportion of ait 
pound of canary, half pound of rape, and ; 
quarter pound of hemp, and a little maw seedii 
the winter. He is very healthy, his plumage is 
perfect, and he sings beautifully, lie enjoys 
his bath of cold water almost daily, and his seel 
and water glasses are emptied, cleaned, and re¬ 
filled every morning.— Margaret. 

Java sparrows —Would someone tell me how ts 
treat Java sparrows, ami say whether they should have, 
bath, and what food ?—J. S. W\ 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 

Hot pickle for hams.— My wife has 
pickled two hams in the manner described in 
Gardening, March 3, and she has just 'started 
upon two more. It occurs to her that the pickle 
used for the first two would do for a second two 
if re-boiled, but before attempting this she world 
like to ask the question ; and at the same time 
she would feel obliged if the correspondent 
would kindly say, how it is that the salt does 
not dissolve more in the process of boiling.— 
F. B. lY) r jnj na | frni 

Keeping bacon.—1 have had no difficulty In ktcpf 
ing Rams and bacon since they have bet-u put in a lea 
or chest and covered with rather tine charcoal, with hott 
for ventilation at rides or top.— Geo. B. j 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. Y. APRIL 28, 1883. No. 216. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 
(Continued, from, page 71.) 


Winter Arrangements and Effects. 

A house nestling amid trees! How pleasantly it 
sounds, and how pretty the effect either in 
summer or winter. The trees, of course, need 
not touch or overshadow the buildings, as they 
generate damp in our climate, and somehow 
modern builders, in their efforts to create stylish- 
looking structures, frequently fail to keep out 
damp. In seeking for winter effects. Ever¬ 
greens are sure to be largely employed, but they 
should not monopolise all our attention, for there 
is a charm about a leafless tree that Evergreens 
cannot furnish. I like to stand under the spread¬ 
ing boughs of the old forest trees in winter and 
look up into the sky through the branches; how 
beautiful they are on a frosty morning when 
covered with white rime! As I walked across 
the lawn the other evening, I stood for a minute 
under the spreading boughs of a large Horse 
Chestnut. I have done this with all kinds of 
trees at all seasons, for there is a fascination in 
thus, as it were, being able to get behind the 
scenes. Every tree has its own individuality. 
The Horse Chestnut, with its drooping, densely 
branched conical shape, towering towards the 
sky, is always and everywhere an object of in¬ 
terest ; unfortunately nothing will live under it, 
so dense is the shade. The Beech is another 
delightful tree, yet when well developed, as I 
have seen them, they, too, are bad neighbours. 
The Lime has a light and elegant habit, so 
numerous and delicate are the twigs which form 
upon the branches. And let me ask how is it 
that as a rule the Birch is so much neglected by 
planters ? For winter or summer no tree can 
surpass it for lighting up the sombre effect of 
heavy masses of evergreens. The Plane is an¬ 
other tree that should become more common 
near a winter residepce to give dignity and 
elevation to the lumpish groups of Evergreens. 

A group of Cedars or Hollies fits in well 
beside a fine old Plane, and Rhododendrons or 
Laurels associate well with the Birch. A winter 
residence should always have plenty of trees for 
shelter, and deciduous trees are as useful for 
breaking up cold winds as are Evergreens. The 
Evergreens will for the most part be used to fill 
in the foregrounds, and partially the middle 
distance also, the Scotch and the Silver Firs 
mingling their dark foliage with the lighter 
shades of the deciduous trees for distant effect. 
On the sides of the hills where space can be 
found for considerable plantations of timber, a 
bold group of forest trees is always a great set 
off to any place. I saw the other day, near 
Norwich, a very happy instance of the way in 
which a wood-crowned hill had lent its charm to 
a number of villa residences standing near its 
margin. There is a grandeur about these forest 
giants that the Evergreens for the most part 
cannot attain to. 

Fruit-beanring trees and shrubs which ripen and 
retain their fruit in winter aro indispensable in 
winter arrangements. There is much beauty in 
the arrangement of cones upon the Fir tribe, 
and everbody is acquainted with the cheerful 
aspect of a group of Hollies when laden with 
berries. In t.he wild garden bold masses of the 
Dog Rose and the Sweet Brier have a brilliant 
effect when in fruit. To come to smaller fruiting 
plants we have the Aucuba, Cotoneaster, Per- 
nettya, Skimmia, and Ivies in great variety. The 
Pyracantha and Cotoneaster Simonsi grafted 
standard high are very effective for ground 
plants. 

And neither need the winter be destitute of 
flowering subjects. The naked-flowered Jasmine, 
the Laurustine,Chimonanthes fragrans, the Box, 
and the Yew tree flower in February, scattering 
clouds of pollen on a windy day. A group of 
the early-flowering Sallows or Willows might be 
appropriately used to give character to any re¬ 
tired spot where there is at present a dearth of 
interest, for the sake of the early catkins. Among 
the lowly flowering plants can anything surpass 
the Christmas Rose ? and few plants have so long 
a season. In sheltered places the early plants 
begin to blossom in November, and I gathered a 

Digitized byXjOOglC 


dozen flowers on March 28, so that the Christmas 
Rose really forms a link between the autumn 
andthespring. Wallflowers and Primroses,Violets 
and Pansies are seldom flowerless in winter, and 
the garden Anemone (coronaria) in many shades 
of colour will flower freely in winter on a dry 
border. I have elsewhere referred to the early and 
late flowering bulbs, the Sternbergia lutea.late in 
autumn, and winter Aconites and the Snowdrop 
and Crocus are really more of the winter than 
the spring. Much may be done to give warmth 
and cheerfulness to a place by the free use of 
plants having variegated foliage. Among these 
subjects the variegated Holly stands pre-eminent; 
then come the Aucubas and the variegated Coni¬ 
fers, of which there are many forms among the 
Cypress family, including the Japanese group. 
Golden Yews are effective; so are all the Biotas 
and Arbor-vita's, especially Vervameana among 
the latter. The bronze-leaved Cryptomeria ele- 
gans, which is also a Japanese species, is a very 
useful winter tree, and succeeds well as a small 
specimen for the villa garden in the suburbs. 
Much more might be said upon this subject, but 
I do not want to make these chapters unneces¬ 
sarily lengthy. 

Transplanting Trees and Shrubs. 

Before I leave this part of my subject I should 
like to say a few words upon the best time to 
plant. I have already referred elsewhere to the 
importance of a thorough preparation of the site. 
Whether the subject to be planted be a Prim¬ 
rose, or a Gooseberry bush, a common Laurel, a 
Cedar of Lebanon, or a forest tree, the same 
rule holds good. The working aud deepening 
of the root-run will have an influence upon the 
life-history of the plant or tree ; but in the 
deepening of the bed of soil or in the ameliora¬ 
tion of its condition, no great amount of the bad 
subsoil should be brought to the surface, espe¬ 
cially if the subsoil is clay or chalk. Sand is of 
less consequence, because it is not of such an un¬ 
manageable nature as clay, and chalk requires a 
long exposure before it will blend with any¬ 
thing ; therefore except in the smallest possible 
quantities, it should not be brought to the sur¬ 
face. Where the main staple is shallow, resting 
on a bad subsoil, it may be possible to make 
Bpecial situations during the formation of the 
grounds for choice subjects. In the construction 
of the roads and walks or other accessories, the 
good soil may be carted to any site where it 
may be required. As a case in point we will say 
we want to establish a group of Cedars in a 
situation where the soil is thin and the subsoil 
indifferent. Well, we cart spare soil from another 
place and elevate the Cedar mound a foot or so, 
and the difficulty, so far as their future is con¬ 
cerned, disappears. This is only acting on the 
principle of doing well what is worth doing at 
all, and if this system could always be acted on 
our difficulties would vanish, and failures would 
become less and less frequent. Trees and shrubs 
that are frequently transplanted suffer less from 
removal than those which are seldom moved, 
for the reason that the treatment received by 
the plants causes a ball of fibry roots to be de¬ 
veloped, instead of the few thick fleshy roots 
which a long residence in one position produces. 
This is why nurserymen are constantly trans¬ 
planting their young stock, so that they may 
always be in a condition to remove with safety 
to any part of the country. 

In a country possessing such a variety of 
soils the same treatment will not suit all alike, 
and experience alone can guide us aright. In 
some places Evergreens may be moved at any 
time, if the work be done with care. I wa9 visiting 
a noted place in Norfolk some time ago, and my 
attention was drawn to a full-grown Holly hedge 
that was moved the previous July without, so 
far as I could see, suffering any injury. The soil 
was of a light, sandy nature, and closed in over 
the roots, fixing them firmly in their situation 
immediately, i know places in Surrey where 
the soil is of a soft, silky texture, containing a 
good deal of vegetable matter, marked by an 
absence of lime, and Rhododendrons and other 
Evergreenscan be moved successfully at any time. 
But it would be unwise to assume from these 
instances that the same thing could he done 


everywhere, and this is why personal experience 
of a locality is so valuable in conducting plant¬ 
ing operations of any magnitude. As a rule, it 
is never wise to obtain plants from a good soil to 
plant on an inferior one"; but the opposite course 
is always safe. In difficult situations where the 
work has to be done by unskilful hands, from the 
middle of September to the end of October is the 
best time to move Evergreens. The next best 
time is from the first of April to the middle of 
May. Frequently in careful hands the spring 
planting is a great success; but there are little 
details in the after-management which enables 
the thoughtful planter to counteract vicissitudes 
of season, and these are mulching over the roots, 
occasionally shading in the case of rare or choice 
specimens, and sprinkling the foliage to check 
evaporation during a dry time until the roots 
get into active work. 

In moving plants from a sheltered place to an 
exposed one great care is necessary, and a 
shelter of some kind for the first season in¬ 
dispensable. In dealing with some soils, balls 
to the plants shifted must, sis far as possible, be 
secured of considerable size. In others it is 
more important to secure plenty of nnmutiiated 
roots than a ton or two of earth attached ; hence 
the importance, as I said before, of studying 
each locality separately and on its own merits, 
as it does not necessarily follow that because 
any particular line of action has been attended 
with success in one place the same result will 
be obtained in all others. Usually the reason 
why one person succeeds and another fails in 
similar operations must be sought for in the 
personal character of the man. Just merely 
sticking in a tree or a shrub is not enough to 
secure success, in fact it does not deserve it; 
and, as a rule, all men meet with the success 
they merit in the long run. All newly planted 
trees must be secured from the effects of wind, 
either by placing a strong stake near and tying 
the main stem to it, wrapping a piece of old 
sack or something soft round the stem to guard 
it from injury by abrasion. Another way is to 
drive three stumps in the ground at equal 
distances round the tree, and 5 or 6 feet from 
it, fix a padded ring loosely round the main 
stem at the right elevation, and. attach three 
wires to the ring, and strain them to the stumps. 

Propagation of Trees and Shrubs. 

If the heading I have taken for this chapter 
was fully worked out and amplified there would 
be matter enough for a good-sized treatise, but 
all I am aiming at is to show amateurs how they 
may, if they wish, propagate in a small way the 
trees and shrubs which form the framework of 
their gardens and grounds. The proper time to 
take 

Cuttings of trees and shrubs is in autumn, 
beginning with the Evergreens early in Septem¬ 
ber, and the deciduous things as soon as the 
leaves fall. First as to the Evergreens. All the 
Conifers', such as the Cypress, Biota, Thujopsis, 
Arbor-vitm, Yew tree, &c., should be planted 
under glass, and during the early stages must be 
kept close. A cloche or bell-glass will do when 
only half a dozen cuttings are required, increasing 
the area according to the number. It is best to 
raise a mound of prepared compost in which 
sandy loam and leaf-mould are blended together, 
with half an inch of clean sand on the top. 
Make it firm ; if dry, water; then mark the size 
of the glass by pressing it down, and dibble in 
the cuttings, fastening them by pressing the soil 
round them. Water with a rosed pot, and when 
the damp condition has passed away put on the 
glass. The glass should either occupy a shaded 
position, or else a shade should be employed. 
When possible the cuttings should be taken off 
with a heel of old wood, and should be from 
5 inches to 8 inches long. They do not involve 
much labour—just a look occasionally to see that 
the soil is moist enough to keep the sap fresh, 
that is in motion at the base of the cuttings. 

In the case of the resin-bearing trees the 
work of healing the wounds and covering them 
with granulated matter from which in time 
roots will issue is a slow process; but still it is 
performed with regularity, and but few failures 
occur. All we have to do is to keep *he cuttings 







GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[April 28, 1883. 



just moist, and in a close, confined atmosphere 
to keep the foliage fresh and active till the young 
rootlets begin to work, then more moisture will 
be required, and a little ventilation as soon at top- 
growth begins, till by-and-by the glasses can 
be taken off altogether; and in course of time 
the young plants should be transplanted to the 
reserve garden to prepare them for the lawn or 
shrubbery. All the choice kinds of Ever¬ 
greens, such as the Aucnbas, Arbutus, Berberis, 
Euonymus, Cotoneaster, Escallonia, &c., will 
strike well under a glass-light or frame in a 
shady position. The common things, such as 
Laurels, Privets, Ac., may be planted in rows 
in the open ground, with just a little litter 
scattered among them in frosty weather. 
Bores strike very well in the open, also in a 
partially shaded position on the west side of a 
wall or fence. In all cases the heel of old 
wood will expedite the formation of roots ; and 
it is most important that the cuttings be taken 
from their parents and be trimmed early in 
autumn. If this be done, they may afterwards 
be laid in thickly in a shady border and re¬ 
planted later on. As the work of forming the 
callus will be in active operation only, of course, 
when finally planted, no more exposure must 
take place than is absolutely necessary. The 
cuttings of deoiduous trees and shrubs should 
be taken as soon as the leaves fall, be cut to 
the required length (from 6 inches to 8 inches), 
and laid in a cool, shady border, and be finally 
planted out as opportunity offers. 

In planting the cuttings, only a small portion 
may appear above ground. A single bud will be 
sufficient, as the more there is exposed to the 
drying influence of the atmosphere the greater 
will be the evaporation, and the difficulty of 
keeping a branch of a tree alive exposed to 
drying winds will ',be great; but. if the cuttings 
are inserted in the earth nearly full length, and 
if, in addition, when a difficult time comes of 
dry, frosty winds in March, a thin mulching of 
dry litter or partially decayed leaves be em¬ 
ployed, the cuttings will be perfectly safe, and 
the formation of roots will proceed quietly and 
surely. 

Layering .—Very many trees and shrubs (in 
fact most of them) will form roots if the shoots 
aie simply bent down and firmly secured in the 
soil at the base of the plants; but the rooting 
is facilitated and hastened by notching or split¬ 
ting the stem that is brought down to be layered 
about the centre of the part buried in the earth. 
The whole process is a very simple one. In the 
nursery, the stools from which the layers are 
taken are thinly planted, leaving space all round 
their circumference to peg down the young shoots 
which are annually thrown up. Thus the shoots 
grown this year will be layered some time be¬ 
fore growth begins, and a new forest of young 
shoots will spring up from the old stool when 
those of the previous year are pegged down; and 
so it goes on year after year, one set of shoots 
arc pegged down, forming roots, to be severed 
from the parents as soon as that is accom¬ 
plished, another set is growing up to be 
operated on in the following year. But where 
only a few plants are required—for instance, say 
we have a choice Rhododendron, it mav be, and 
we want a young plant of it—a young shoot may 
be bent down to the ground; have a notch half 
through the stem cut in the lower side—the 
upper side willdoif more convenient , or a slit will 
answer as well,—cutting upwards half tlirough 
the stem, and then peg the shoot down, burying 
the wounded part 3 inches or 4 inches in the 
ground, making all firm. Nearly all things will 
root from cuttings, and layers are even more cer¬ 
tain than cuttings, because the connection with 
the parent is continued till the roots are formed. 

Grafting is a more expeditious way of in¬ 
creasing choice shrubs and trees than layering. 
All the choice variegated Hollies are grafted 
upon the common green variety. All the choice 
named varieties of Rhododendrons are grafted, 
and so are many of the Conifers ; but no useful 
purpose would be answered by going fully into 
this subject here, as a propagating house, or at 
least a close pit, will be required for carrying it 
out successfully, even if only done in a small 
way for experiment. Grafting is simply uniting 
two separate individuals together, and these must 
not only be in a fit condition as regards age and 
size for the union, but the manipulating must be 
carefully done with a keen edged inplement so 
as to fit exactly, probably no great amount of 
sfeill may tie r^uire^Djo euWy^Jwgnchps of 


suitable size to fit and bring together as large a 
surface of the inner bark of each individual as 
possible, and on this lies the chance of a suc¬ 
cessful operation, assuming that the two plants 
are suitably matched; but experience (practical 
knowledge) tells in this, as in all other work we 
are called upon to perform. Something rests 
with the tying the graft to the Btock with the 
requisite, but not unnecessary, firmness, and the 
application of the clay or wax to keep out the air 
from the wounded parts so that the sap may 
flow freely; in fact, every operation connected 
with grafting is important. There are many 
ways of grafting for young stocks. Whip graft¬ 
ing is the simplest and best, and it consists in 
heading down the 6tock, cutting a thick slice 
from one side, and cutting the scion in a corres¬ 
ponding manner to make a perfect fit. Cleft or 
crown grafting iB better adapted for larger sub¬ 
jects, and inarching can only be practised when 
the subjects to be united are growing side by 
side, or can be brought near to each other. 

Budding is an excellent mode of propagation, 
and is largely employed in the propagation of 
deciduous trees, such as Thorns, Roses, Ac. I 
shall have occasion to refer to it fully when 
treating of the Rose, se shall say no more about 
it here. This article on the propagation of trees 
and shrubs will hardly be complete without a 
few words regarding the sowing of seeds ; as, 
though it may not be necessary in a small way 
to raise such things from seeds, yet in a con¬ 
densed form the knowledge is worth having, as 
friends from foreign countries arc continually 
sending or bringing home seeds of Conifers or 
other choice trees and shrubs. Seeds of Coni¬ 
fers and American plants are best sown thinly 
in pans of peat and sand placed in a darkened 
frame. A little artificial heat, if very slight, not 
objected to. The darkened frame enables us to 
keep the soli in which the seeds are placed 
at an even state of moisture without using the 
waterpot much, and some source of danger is 
removed. Light, of course, must be admitted 
as soon as germination takes place. 

Seeds of forest trees may be sown in drills in 
the open air. Haws and Holly berries are 
buried in moist sand for a season to soften 
their outer covering, and are then sown either in 
drills or broadcast on beds, covering with the 
soil from the alleys. E. Hobday. 

BOSES. 

Climbing Boses. —Roses trained against 
walls, trellises, arches, Ac., should be treated as 
Grape Vines. Although spring pruning should 
have been completed long ere this, the most 
important matter now is to commence with the 
new growth. We will assume the Roses have 
been properly pruned, all the weakly-grown 
wood has been cut away, and large branches 
from 6 feet to 8 feet long left to produce new 
wood and bloom. When the new growths are a 
few inches long they should be carefully 
looked over and all weakly ones rubbed off. 
This will throw all tbe strength into the strong 
shoots which are left. By these means both 
quantity and quality of bloom will be secured. 
The wood will be ripe and fine for entting back 
next season, because you have allowed the sun 
and air to do its work by the removal of all 
weakly shoots. When the first crop of Roses has 
been cut the growths may be shortened back to 
about two or three eyes, and with a good soaking 
of liquid manure a good second crop may be 
secured. I consider the best four Roses for the 
above purpose to be Blairi No. 2, Cheshnnt 
Hybrid, Gloire de Dijon, and General Jacque¬ 
minot. All should be worked on healthy Briers 
about 12 inches high, and if properly planted 
they will do well in almost any aspect.— 
Practical Man, Woodford. 

Standard Boses —Itbink“A Practical Man” 
lets his enthusiasm on the above subject get the 
better of his reason. He may have very good 
standard Roses at Woodford, which I do not 
doubt in the least, but he should bear in mind 
that “ J. D.” may not be so happily situated as 
himself. If “ J. D.” is near to some large town 
in the north, as I myself am, I do not wonder at 
him calling standards “ mops and scarecrows." 
and I think if “ A Practical Man ” saw them in 
this locality he would change his opinion about 
them. As for own root Roses, with regard to 
“ Practical Man’s " remarks that we should lack 
all the best varieties and our gardens would look 


like so many wildernesses, I beg to tell him that 
we can have the best of bloom, and that from 
the best varieties, from own root plants where 
standards will not grow at all, and I would 
advise all who plant ltoseB in such localities at 
this, if they get them budded on Brier or Manetti 
stocks, to plant them deep enough to cover the' 
union, so that they may make roots above it and 
so be independent of the stock. I think that 
the sooner the erroneous idea that Rotes do 
better on the Brier and Manetti stock than on 
their own roots is expelled from the amateur, 
mind the better, as for one locality where etan- 
dards would do well there is a dozen where they 
would not, and therefore people following “ i 
Practical Man's ” advice, would not only hare 
the expense (which is somewhat considerable in 
the first instance in the case of standards), hot 
would be very much disappointed when they 
found the plants produced no flowers bat had 
gone hence, leaving 4 feet of walking sticks aid 
a few dead twigs at the end.—W'.G. Jewiti, 
Headingley, Leeds. 

Autumnal-flowering BoBes.-Lastao. 

tumn the old China Roses proved most aband&oi 
fiowarers, displaying their charms in great pro¬ 
fusion up to quite late in the season. Noisette, 
Aimfie Vibert, Lamarque, and CelinA Forestier, 
though not usually classed as autumn bloomer,, 
were conspicuously fine worked on the seedling 
Brier. Madame Berard on the same stock 
proved a very vigorous grower, flowering «s 
freely and finely in September and October n 
Gloire de Dijon. The following varieties art 
good autumn bloomers, viz.. Beauty of Wallhan. 
Baron Gonella, especially fine and free, Ron!: 
de Neige, Charles Lefebvre, La France, Mabel 
Morrison, Madame Gecrge Kchwartz, Amu 
Alexieff, and Gloire de Dijon. It would not be 
difficult to extend this list, but the foregoiop 
were excellent last autumn. They were ill 
worked on the cultivated Brier, which appear, 
to be, taking it altogether, the very best stock 
for dwarf Roses.—R. D. 

9582.— Boses and Bose stooks.-Pries 
a grower of Roses has some knowledge of the 
foliage of the Rose, and the divergence it ihow* 
from the foliage of the Brier and the Manetti. 
it is not easy to instruct those who are ignorant 
in the matter. A very close observance will, 
however, suffice to show that, whilst nearly ah 
Rose leafage is fairly broad and mostly imeMfi 
and glossy, the leafage of both Brier and Ma- 
netti is small and narrow, although that of the 
latter stock more nearly resembles the foliage 
of some Roses than do that of the Brier All 
suckers from below the soil on worked Rose, 
may well be regarded with suspicion, and if the 
foliage is found not to be like that of the Rcw 
on the stock, they should be at once cat clean 
away. It is one excellent advantage arising 
from having Rose trees on their own rods, that 
all suckers thrown up are necessarily new and 
valuable additions to the plants, and produce 
beautiful flowers. If all Roses could be induce*, 
to strike freely from cuttings, we should won 
see dwarf stocks, such as the Manetti, going am 
of use. The trade growers arc more in lore with 
these stocks than are the purchasers, as with the 
former they can be utilised to work up a stock 
of plants by early grafting, and forcing in th p 
spring with great rapidity. Where standard- 
are needed. Briers are indispensable, hut owing 
to the enormous demand that is made on the 
hedgerow Brier, we must expect in a few yes'- 
to learn that the stock is being exhausted, am* 
unless they are raised from seed in a trade way. 
standard Roses must die out.—A. D 

Garden fertilisers.— I have lately ton 

testing the value of Standen’s manure on several 
kinds of pot plants to satisfy myself if it 
merited the high encomiums passed on it, >ua 1 
am fully satisfied that it is a valuable and sa e 
manure. It is not a new, but nevertheless a very 
reliable article. The way I applied it was 0 
select a given quantity of plants, and set them 
side by side with an equal quantity that wen 
watered with ordinary liquid manure and ot era 
with clear wat er, and in every case Standee- 
manure showed the most marked results, pc 
during dark shining foliage, and very ro 
growth. The safest plan of applying it is to wai« 
the plants with clear water first, then so 
the manure on the surface of the sou. 
after it has lain a little while on the nj ' 
earth water very gently with a flne-yosed w> 





April 28 , 1883 .] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


93 


pot, being careful not to float the particles over 
the edge of the pot. About a teaspoonful is 
enough at a time for a good sized pot, or a 
tablespoonful for a very large one, snch as speci¬ 
men plants or fruit trees are grown in, and if 
given at alternate waterings with clear water it 
will not be long before the result of the applica¬ 
tion is apparent. Plants that are in pots full of 
roots are the ones to most speedily ibew good 
results, having plenty of hungry feeding roots 
ready to absorb the rich nutriment contained 
in this manure. In addition to various stove 
plants, Azaleas, Camellias, Ac., I have used this 
mixture for Tomatoes in pots, Strawberries, and 
other fruits; and anyone having Tomatoes ex¬ 
hausted by winter bearing would find them 
good subjects to experiment on, being gross 
feeders. Try a little manure shaken on the 
surface of the soil before watering, and I feel 
confident you will soon see a marked improve¬ 
ment in the plants and their produce—at least, 
such is my own experience.— James Gboom. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


Lilies of the Valley in open-air beds. 

—These are now coming into full beauty, and 
tew plants repay generous culture better than 
this exquisite little gem. Lilies of the Valley as 
usually seen are in thick masses, and planted 
where the roots of trees rob them of what 
nourishment the soil possesses. The flowers are 
therefore small, and thin in consequence ; but 
when planted thinly in rich soil fully exposed to 
sunshine, and where they receive an annual top¬ 
dressing of 3 inches or 4 inches of short rotten 
manure in autumn, they continue to strengthen, 
and to send up finer foliage and blooms until 
one would almost imagine that another variety 
has sprung up. The blooms are invaluable for 
indoor decoration, and a few lights put over a 
portion of the beds in March advance blooming 
considerably. They are flowers with which one 
never seems to be overstocked.—J. G. L. 

Ixias —I do not know whether these are 
muoh grown in open borders or not, but I rarely 
see them. Here in Somerset they stand our 
severest winters. I have planted several dozen 
for about six years, and they come np stronger 
every year and flower well They are planted in 
good, well drained soil; for the first two years I 
covered them with Cocoa-nut refuse, but since then 
they have had no protection whatever.—J. C. C 

Tropseolum specloaum.— The first time 
I saw this plant in Scotland it was growing on 
the front of a lodge at the entrance to a noble¬ 
man's park in Selkirkshire, and from a distance, 
when the sun was shining on it, the front of 
the cottage seemed a perfect blaze of scarlet 
flowers. As many have failed in the culture of 
this Tropseolum, I would recommend that the 
roots be established in pots the first year, and 
then transplanted the following spring without 
breaking the ball, putting in a stick to mark 
where it is planted, so that it may not be dis¬ 
turbed again. As the roots so much resemble 
that pest of the garden, Couch Grass (Triticum 
repens), I am afraid that on digging over the 
border they are frequently thrown out, thinking 
they are this obnoxious weed.—A. 

Spireea japomoa as an edging.— This 
charming Spinea, so well known as a pot plant, 
forms a good hardy edging, its fresh Fern-like 
foliage alone rendering it very beautiful. It 
makes an excellent edging for permanent beds, 
such as those for Roses or hardy herbaceous 
plants. Its foliage comes up early and continues 
in good condition throughout the season, and 
when covered with beautiful white flowers it is 
doubly attractive. It is readily increased by 
division of the roots, and when planted in good 
soil it will stand for several years with no other 
attention than that of keeping it clean in sum¬ 
mer and giving it a top-dressing of rich soil or 
manure in winter.—J. G. L. 

The Wood Anemone in good soil.— 
I was pleased lately to see the Wood Anemone 
—the common kind, as I suppose—large and 
full in the rich and overgrown borders of a neg¬ 
lected garden. We so often see the plant strug¬ 
gling and starved in woody places, that when 
grown like this it seems almost a new plant; or 
it may be there are several forms of it. The 
flowers struck me by their fulness and size in 
this respect, comiDg nearer to A. sylvestris in 

S gitizedby GOOglC 


IriB reticulata.— Too much attention can¬ 
not be directed to the value and usefulness of 
this lovely Iris. We consider no box of cut 
flowers which we have to send to town perfect 
without a good bunch of its flowers ; their colours 
are rich and striking, and contrast agreeably 
with those of other flowers.—W. A. 

Hyacinths after blooming.—I con¬ 
stantly see advice given to throw away 
Hyacinths after blooming. My experience shows 
that this would be a mistake. Nine or ten 
years ago I had three Hyacinths in glasses in 
London. They flowered very well and were 
put for two years in a window-box. There they 
flowered but very poorly, then they were brought 
to Wimbledon and put in a clump in a sunny 
rockery. They have flowered well every year 
since. Last year one of the blooms nearly 
equalled the best in the conservatory, this year 
they are blooming well. They have never been 
disturbed, and I recommend others to try the 
same plan.—A. M. 

Eooremooarpus ecaber.— This is a good 
old-fashioned climber, not very often met with 
in good condition, but it is a rapid grower and 
profuse flowerer under favourable conditions. 
It will grow well in a warm corner against a 
sunny wall, but it is too tender to stand the 
winter in the open garden, but the roots can be 


9669.— Violets for winter bloom.— To 

bloom Violets well in pots in winter good strong 
plants must be taken up from the open ground 
in October. These are obtained by dividing old 
plants anywhere from now on, or by layering the 
young runners which form on established plants 
later on. In any case they should be planted in 
rich soil about 6 inches apart, and be kept clean 
and well watered in dry weather. Violets do 
not much like very hot sun nor drying winds, 
and therefore are more happy when somewhat 
screened from both. The north or east side of 
a hedge or wall is a good place, where they get 
plenty of light all the growing season. In hot, 
dry weather sprinkle them twice a day. A good 
dressing of soot will also be of great value. 
Some of the best kinds are Marie Louise, Czar, 
De 1’arme, Swanley White, Neapolitan, and Belle 
de Chatenay (white).—J. C. li. 

9592— Soapsuds and house slope — 
There is really so little that is nutritive or 
manurial in these liquids that they are far le38 
valuable than is commonly held to be the case. 
To employ them to water coarse growing vege¬ 
table crops in gardens is all very well, or they 
may be given to trees and bushes in dry weather; 
but in moist seasons their free use to plants of 
any kind may result in more harm th%n good. 
The safest way in the wet months of the year is 
to pour them into the sewer, but in dry weather 



Summer flowering Climber (Eccremocarpus acaber.) Flowers orange scarlet. 


lifted and put in a box of soil in autumn, and 
if kept away from frost will throw up strong 
shoots again in spring. We have seen it growing 
well in a window-box near London, allowed to 
climb up strings stretched across the window, so 
as to form a screen from the sun. It is also 
easily raised from seed sown in spring. Its 
flowers are orange scarlet. 

Anemones. —The truly superb group of cut 
flowers of single garden Anemones shown recently 
at South Kensington by Messrs. Collins and 
Gabriel showed far more forcibly than any words 
can how beautiful Anemones are and how lovely 
and truly brilliant they are for the decoration of 
the garden in spring. It is true all these flowers 
came from the south of France, but they show 
the strain and what seeds from such a strain 
will produce. We have plenty of such beautiful 
and varied colours in our home-grown Anemo¬ 
nes, but the blooms from the sunny south are 
naturally finer because our spring has been so 
very cold and ungenerous for all spring flowers. 
Market growers tell us that the single Anemone 
is not a good keeping cut flower, but from that 
conclusion we must differ, as we have had plenty 
of flowers to keep fresh and beautiful a fortnight 
after being cut. In using them for this purpose 
the blooms should be gathered ere fully ex¬ 
panded, and they will do that in the water. The 
grand blooms, several hundred in number, shown 
by Messrs. Collins and Gabriel, most have been 
gathered quire thirty-six hoars, if not longer, 
before they were staged, and at the end of the 
day not a petal had fallen, although the flowers 
had travelled hundreds of miles. It is now such 
a good time to sow seed that the importance of 
doing so at once cannot be too strongly im¬ 
pressed. We prefer to sow under glass and trans¬ 
plant later on, as the seed certainly geminates 
much more freely and rapidly so sown than 
when sown in the open ground. From a present 
sowing will come an abundance of plants to 
bloom freely and in wondrons beauty next 
spring. 


they may be employed on st rong growing plants 
as advised.—A. 

9694.— Lotler cultive. —This plant, Lotus 
tetragonolobus, is not a climber; it suceeds in the 
south of England as an ordinary annual sown 
out-of-doors in poor or sandy soil in March or 
April. It might do better in Yorkshire sown 
under glass and planted out. It should not be 
in rich soil, or the foliage becomes too dense and 
rank, hiding the red and black flowers. In its 
native places on the Mediterraean coasts, itgrows 
in rocky spots where there is litte soil, and the 
flowers are a fine scarlet; in England their colour 
is paler.—G. J. 

9552.— Gladioli. —The varieties mentioned 
all belong to the "choice hybrid ” section, and 
are not hardy enough to pass the winter in the 
open ground, but may be planted out with per¬ 
fect safety from the end of March onwards. In 
light soils they may be set out in the beginning 
of that month but it is very seldom that the 
ground is frozen sufficiently in March to harm 
the bulbs.—J. C. B. 

9686— Flowers for small beds— At this 
season of the year, when it is desirable to fill 
small beds with flowers raised from seed, it is 
evident that only some quick growing annuals 
can be employed. A very pretty effect is got by 
sowing Mignonette in the beds, and around one 
a margin of blue Nemophila, and the other a 
margin of pink Saponaria. If not too thick these 
edgings will last a long time, and the Mignonette 
will bloom profusely until the winter comes. 
Into the Mignonette may be thinly dibbled 
either some Asters, Annual Chrysanthemums, or 
African Marigolds. These growing well above 
the carpet of JMignonette would look well. Sow 
the tall plants under glass, and the carpet plants 
on the beds.—D. 

9591 — Aaatlisea cceleatls—Thii plant la half hardy, 
and will thrive well In any greenhouse, whether looking 
south or north, at this time of the year. It flowers all 
the more freely If a little pot-bound, though not ol ne¬ 
cessity so much so AS to lead to starring.- .4. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



94 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Apkil 28 , 1883 . 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 


Extract) from a Garden Diary—April 30 to 
May 5. 

Sowing Dwarf Green Curled Savoys, Walcheren, 
Autumn Self-protecting, Champion, Wilcove Late White, 
Cattell'a Eclipse and Leamington Broccoli Potting on 
Cockscombs, Celosias, young Cjclamens, and Deutzia 
gracilis, lioeing up all weeds and suckers amongst 
Raspberries, leaving six canes to a root for training. 
Digging out a trench and getting it filled with ferment¬ 
ing material, and otherwise getting it ready for Ridge 
Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows. Sowing Giant 
Emerald Marrow, Dr. McLean, Ne Plus Ultra, and 
Omega Peas, also two rows of Johnson's Wonderful 
Longpod Beans. Giving all Broccoli, Turnip, and other 
seeds a dusting with wood-ashes early in the morning to 
keep down the fly. Digging all flower borders ready for 
planting. Turning over gravel walks in back shrubberies 
to give them a fiesh appearance. Looking over all 
Strawberries that are well set, picking off the weak and 
late blossoms, and tying up Lettuces to blanch. Sowing 
Primulas, Cinerarias, Stocks, Asters, and Humea elegans. 
Potting on Chrysanthemums and Azaleas. Sowing Leeks, 
and Mustard and Cress. Potting Balsams and spring- 
struck Fuchsias. Stopping all young shoots on Fig trees. 
Planting out Red and white Celery to come in about the 
middle of August Hoeing amongst Strawberries. 
Looking over Peach trees on walls, picking oif all curled 
leaves, and disbudding them where required. Staking 
and tying up Mignonette in pots. Thinning Turnips. 
Carrots, and Spinach. Renovating all linings round 
frames. Planting out Sweet Basil into a rough frame 
for protection. Hoeing amongst all growing crops. Stick¬ 
ing Peas and getting them earthed up. 


Glasshouses. 


Stove and greenhouse plants.— The 

earliest tuberous Begonias will now be fast 
approaching the flowering state, and should 
receive a liberal amount of air in order to keep 
them dwarf and stocky, a condition that will 
ensure them a long season of beauty. Young 
Cyclamens that were sown in autumn will now 
be best grown on in close frames, giving them 
very liberal treatment all through the growing 
season, when they will make fine blooming 
plants by autumn. Others sown early in spring 
will now require pricking out into pans, in rich, 
light soil, and should be kept growing in warm 
quarters. Push on a good batch of Amarantus 
salicifolius and A. tricolor; those will be found 
useful in the conservatory by-and-bye. Attend 
carefully to Vallotas now that they have com¬ 
menced growing, and endeavour to get a good 
development of healthy foliage on them. These 
will now require close frame treatment, but 
expose them to all the sunshine possible, to give 
substance to the foliage and an early ripeness to 
the bulbs. Anyone requiring a beautiful minia¬ 
ture basket plant for a small conservatory or a 
Wardian case should now divide Sibthorpia 
europsea variegata, and place it in small baskets 
or pans, over the edges of which it will grow 
and show its beautiful habit and variegation to 
perfection. Where only one house is devoted 
to stove plants it will be necessary to make use 
of heated frames for forwarding young soft- 
wooded stock. Most of the winter-blooming 
plants will now do equally well in warm frames 
as in the stove. These should now be pushed 
forward rapidly, and as fast as they fill then- 
pot with roots should be moved into pots a size 
larger. Maintain a moist atmosphere around 
them, and shade moderately during bright 
weather, closing up early on fine days. Quantities 
of fresh cuttings should now be put in; these 
will make smaller but useful plants if grown on 
freely during the remainder of the season. Keep 
the different varieties of Coleus well up to the 
light and in full sun, in order to get up their 
colour early, as they are among the most useful 
plants for the conservatory to succeed the early- 
forced plants of Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Ac., 
which, will now soon be over. Attend to the 
pricking out and potting on of young Gloxinias 
and other seedling plants in this house. 


Ferns.— These will now be throwing up 
mass of young fronds, which must be carefully 
watched, in order to prevent them from getting 
spoiled in their upward course by becoming en¬ 
tangled with the old fronds. The centres should 
be kept well opened out while the young fronds 
are developing. Large supplies of water will now 
be required by all kinds growing freely, and the 
tree varieties will require their stems damping 
several times daily during hot weather. Plants 
growing in baskets will require more attention 
than those in pots, as the air, having full access 
to the outsides of the baskets, quickly dries them 
up. Among the finest kinds for growing in bas¬ 
kets are Goniophlebium snbauriculatum, As- 
plenium caudatum, and A. Serra. Among the 
assets may be 


vauviatuui, ouu a. v 

■mailer growing^™ suitable 


w 


named the different varieties of Adiantums; 
those that form underground rhizomes are the 
best, as they quickly travel to all parts of the 
baskets, and soon form a perfect ball of delicate 
verdure. Two of the freest growers in this way 
are A assimile and A. amabile; but the most 
beautiful and distinct of all the Adiantums for a 
basket is A. lunulatum. 

Flower Garden. 

General work. —Lawns should be mown 
and grass verges clipped. Apart from the un¬ 
tidy aspect of uncut edgings, it is desirable to 
cut these regularly to prevent seeding Grasses 
making weedy walks, and the same remark 
applies to grass margins of shrubbery clumps. 
Continue to plant out all the hardy section of 
bedding plants, also thin out hardy annuals 
sown in the open borders, and plant out those 
sown in warmth. Stake Sweet Peas and make 
another sowing. Place in sheltered positions, 
easy of protection, out of doors all the hardiest 
kinds of bedding plants, such as Pelargoniums, 
Ageratums, Lobelias, Verbenas, Ac., which will 
allow of the potting on of recently struck plants 
of the same kinds, and also the tender sorts, 
such as Coleus, Amarantus, Iresine, and seed¬ 
ling subtropicals, which to do them justice re¬ 
quire plenty of space and warmth. 

Rook garden and hardy fernery— 

Pick off seed vessels and decayed flowers from 
the earlier flowering plants, and keep the whole 
free from weeds. Couch Grass and Spergula 
are at this season very troublesome, and unless 
destroyed betimes quickly overrun the weaker 
growing plants. The dwarf Phloxes, Aubrietias, 
Myosotis, Omphalodes, and two or three varieties 
of Saxifrages are now finely in flower, but, 
handsome as they are, they should not be per¬ 
mitted to encroach on others, which, like weeds, 
they quickly do if permitted to grow un¬ 
restrictedly. Keep the walks free from weeds, 
but not too dressy; Moss-grown or heathy are 
the most appropriate. Formal walks or edgings 
do not harmonise well with the surrounding 
irregularities of a rock garden, but where these 
exist keep the edgings clipped and the walks 
hard and clean. Ferns from which the old 
fronds have not yet been removed should have 
that attention at once, and additional soil should 
be given to all that need it; transplanting, too, 
may yet be done. When there is not sufficient 
to well furnish the ground, plant at long dis¬ 
tances, and fill the intervening spaces with the 
common Wood Mosses, Sedums, and Stonecrops. 
The common wild Hyacinths, Wood Anemones, 
Violets, Primroses, Snowdrops, and Daffodils are 
all in their season most effective as undergrowths 
for Ferns. 

Flowering trees and shrubs— Many 
flowering trees and shrubs are now in their 
beauty, and by way of memoranda for future 
planting, the present is the time to decide the 
varying merits of each, both as to the position 
for which they are best suited and colours of 
blossom. The wild Cherries, the Almonds, and 
Laburnums are all excellent for planting as stan¬ 
dards in large shrubberies for distant effect; and 
the double and single blossomed Gorse, Broom, 
both white and yellow flowered Lilacs, Syringas 
and Weigelas are suitable for forming groups, 
either alone or in combination, but Syringas and 
Weigelas look best when well backed up with 
evergreen shrubs, Horse and Spanish Chestnuts, 
False Acacias and Hawthorns seem most at home 
perhaps when planted singly on the turf, but this 
is purely a matter of taste and the character of 
the ground formation to be planted, which 
obviously can only be satisfactorily decided on 
the spot. Be that as it may, every place having 
any pretension to gardening should have some 
flowering trees and slirubs ; and now when they 
are in full beauty is the time to note and 
decide to what extent it may be desirable to use 
them.—W. W. 


Fruit. 

Late Vines. —Take advantage of every ray 
of sunshine in the management of late houses 
by closing about 3.S0 with moisture, when 
the fire-heat may be kept shut off until the tem¬ 
perature falls to within 6° of the night heat, 
which need not exceed 60° for the present. If 
inside borders are well drained they may be 
copiously watered without fear of injury; indeed 
a large percentage of inside borders never get 
half enough water; the roots go out in search of 


that which is denied to them at home, and many 
people imagine it is the position of the border 
and not their own bad treatment which drives 
them downwards and outwards, often into deep 
subsoils too crude and oold for anything le,; 
hardy than a common Oak. Another mistake 
which many people make is the giving their late 
Vines too much root room, particularly in low, 
damp situations, where everything but the 
moisture-laden atmosphere is unfavourable to 
good Grape growing. In such situations I haTe 
always found that internal borders 6 feet wide, 
and external herders 9 feet wide, will give a 
maximum of good Grapes at a minimum ol 
cost, simply because they are fuU of active 
roots which can be fed without watering half 
the garden, and being warm the Grape; 
invariably set, swell, and colour welL An¬ 
other advantage is the alternate system of 
taking out and renovating the borders with 
new soil without having to sacrifice a crop, whet 
too much vigour is unfavourable to the proper 
ripening of the wood, and as the latter means 
unripe Grapes, growers of late kinds who com¬ 
plained so much last winter will do well to look 
to their borders, and if they are wide, deep, rich, 
and cold, steel forks must be brought into use 
before they will again be successful in the Grape 
room. 

Early Vines. —Early houses in which the 
Grapes are ripening may have more air on fine 
days, but draughts must be avoided, and if the 
inside borders are sufficiently moist the usual 
damping down may be continued, as spring 
Grapes require more moisture than can be given 
to late ones. Let laterals grow without a check 
if they seem inclined to Btart, and keep a sharp 
eye on the old foliage, as spider is almost sure to 
be present, and injury to the primary leaves at 
this early season is very often the cause of early 
Vines breaking prematurely in the autumn, and 
covering their unfortunate owners with glory by 
ripening np new Grapes in January. With many 
the usual remedy for spider is flowers of sulphur, 
but, independently of the fact that Frontignam- 
and other thin-skinned kinds are often rusted and 
ruined by its use, timely sponging of the upper 
and undersides of the leaves with soapy water it 
undoubtedly the most effectual, as it is the mos: 
economical mode of dealing with this trouble 
some pest. Another troublesome marauder is the 
spider, as it thoroughly enjoys the dry wamth 
and security which it finds in a bunch of Gmpes. 
but it must be destroyed, otherwise the delicate 
bloom will be disturbed before it is properly set 
—W. C. ‘ 


Vegetables. 

Bru8sels Sprouts should now be ready for 
pricking out. Get some old manure, spread i; 
on the surface of any out-of-the-way comer 
(1 inch deep is ample), and finish off with 
another inch deep of fine soil. Burnt refuse is 
the best of all mixtures for young plants, say 
four barrow-loads of soil to one of refuse; on this 
prick out the young plants 4 inches apart, and 
when planting out finally force the spade under 
the bottom of the bed, and each plant will come 
up with a ball. Set your line across the Bite to be 
planted, and take out one side spit, and at even 
3 feet apart lay in your plant, pressing the soil 
firmly round it. Nothing more is needed except 
keeping the ground free from weeds. As regard; 
spring Broccoli, before my next calendar appear, 
the time will be slightly past for sowing this 
really paying crop. I sow on May 1, and find that 
date, or about that, preferable to any other time 
I always sow in drills 1 foot apart, and plant 
out the plants from the seed beds to their per¬ 
manent quarters, the site being that occupied 
by early Potatoes. When the Potatoes are all 
lifted we give the land a rough rake over with 
an implement called the agitator, set the line 
across the site, and make the holes with a crow¬ 
bar ; one man drops in the plants while another 
fills the holes with water. The work of planting 
is then complete. For a selection of Cauli¬ 
flowers and Broccoli to span the year, see former 
calendars as to the early Broccoli, such as 
Veitch’s two varieties, good old Walcheren, and 
Early Dwarf Mammoth, leaving me on this oc¬ 
casion to mention the winter and spring varie¬ 
ties, which 1 have found to do best. Of all winter 
Broccoli I have ever seen I pronounce Snow's 
(when true) to be the very best, followed by 
those two really fine varieties Leamington and 
Watts’s, both too well known to require furtherre 
mark. For the latest I find Burghley Champion 


April 28 , 1883 .] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


95 


and Cattell’s Eclipse to be the very best. We have 
the two latter now coming into use. Keep 
plenty of Lettuces tied up for blanching. Black- 
seeded hardy Cos is the sort to grow for the 
winter. In these Lettuces one finds something 
crisp and good, but French Cos Lettuces grown 
under cloches are soft, like tissue paper com¬ 
pared with brown paper as regards thickness 
and substance of leaf. They are really hand¬ 
some Lettuces, but never could the old proverb, 
“ Beauty is but skin deep,” be better applied than 
in the case of these French Lettuces. R. G. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

In the outdoor garden things will now 
be coming on so much more rapidly that constant 
attention will be necessary. Grass will require 
cutting at intervals, and if at all thin or patchy 
scatter a little of the finest lawn grass seed over 
the turf, after having loosened the surface with 
a sharp toothed rake, and over this sift a little 
tine mould. If done at once, this will greatly 
improve the appearance of any lawn in a short 
time. 

Prepare beds for the reception of bedding and 
other summer plants. For Asters and Calceo¬ 
larias, also for Cannas, Ricinuses, and other 
free growing plants, the soil can scarcely be 
made too rich; while Geraniums, Petunias— 
especially if seedling plants are employed— 
though needing a fair amount of nourishment, 
are yet very apt to run too much to leaf at the 
expense of bloom if afforded a too highly en¬ 
riched soil. Now is a good time to make a 
liberal sowing of Convolvulus major, as well as 
of Tropmolum canariense, at the foot of a warm 
wall or fence; Phlox Drummondi may also be 
sown in well-prepared beds about the end of the 
month. This last is one of the most showy and 
useful of all annuals ; it thrives well treated as 
above, though, of course, will not come into 
bloom until late in the season. If required to 
Rower early, it must be sown in a gentle warmth 
in March, and be pricked off and planted out 
when sufficiently strong. 

In the greenhouse everything seems to 
need attention at once. Cinerarias are now in 
full bloom, and if of a good strain, and well 
grown, will make a beautiful show. Give Cal¬ 
ceolarias coming into flower an occasional dose 
of manure water, shade from strong sunshine, 
and maintain a moist atmosphere round the 
plants; this wiH be far preferable to excessive 
root watering during the present dry warm 
weather. Gite such plants of Fuchsias, Petunias, 
Zonal Geraniums, &c., as are well rooted in 
3-inch pots a shift into 5-inch ones, some of the 
strongest into 6-inch ones if required so large ; 
try to keep them a little close and shaded for a 
few days after this operation, and do not make the 
fresh soil too wet before the roots have begun 
to work in it. Afford Pelargoniums of the show 
and fancy sections a light and airy position, 
with exposure to all but the very strongest sun¬ 
shine ; these require abundance of moisture at 
the roots on bright days, and a dose of guano or 
soet water twice a week will greatly assist them. 

Sow Balsams in light, rich soil, and keep them 
close to the glass when up. If already started, pot 
the plants singly in 3-inch pots as soon as they 
have a pair of rough leaves, setting them deeply in 
the soil. See that some nice plants of Plumbago 
capensis are coming on for summer flowering; 
if they cannot be planted out against a wall 
give them a good shift when well in growth, 
and train the young shoots to four or five neat 
si _,kes stack round the sides of the pots ; if 
nicely done these make fine specimens. Cuttings 
of this plant, also of Myrtles, Acacias, Cytisus, 
and most other hard-wooded greenhouse plants, 
will now strike very easily in sandy soil under 
a hand-glass in the greenhouse, or even in a 
plain wooden box, with a sheet or two of glass 
for a lid. Boxes of Stocks, Indian Pinks, 
Lobelias, I’yretlirums, and other half-hardy 
plants that have been pricked off and are well 
established will now do much better in cold 
frames, with plenty of air on fine days, than in 
an even moderately warm house. 

Make up at once hot-beds for growing Cu¬ 
cumbers, and put the plants out as soon as 
ready, or if there is room in a house at 65° to 
75®, a few plants may be put out on mounds of 
rich soil placed on the front stage or shelf. 
Dielytra spectabilis, with its long, drooping 
racemes, is now a very beautiful object as a 
pot plant for a drawing-room or window. Kept 

Digitized by (jOi gTC 


cool and moist, this plant retains its lovely 
appearance for a long time. B. C. R. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


EARLY FLOWERING MAGNOLIAS. 

The Ynlan Magnolia (M.conspicua) forms a con¬ 
spicuous object amongst spring flowering trees, 
especially when viewed against a background of 
evergreens, which, as the blossoms are produced 
before the leaves, serve to show them off to ad¬ 
vantage. The only drawback is the havoc made 
by spring frosts, which sometimes destroy the 
whole of the flowers in a single night. Notwith¬ 
standing this, however, this Magnolia is well 
worth attention. It forms a fine conical shaped 
tree, grows freely, and in mild springs remains 
for a long time in beauty. Though introduced 
nearly a century ago, it seems to have been 
planted but sparingly, but, judging by the num¬ 
bers of it which one now sees in nurseries, a 
greater demand appears to be anticipated. Of 
quite a different habit is the purple Magnolia (M. 
purpurea), which assumes the shape of a loose, 
spreading shrub, 6 feet or 8 feet high; its stems 
are generally somewhat crowded, but not much 
branched, and as they acquire solidity press out¬ 
wards, so as to attain at times a semi-procumbent 
position. The flowers are not so globular as those 
of M. conspicua, and seldom open fully until a 
day or two before they fall off. In colour they are 
deep purple outside and white within, and they 



Flower of the Yulan Magnolia (M. conspicua). 


open about a month later than those of the Yulan. 
M. purpurea is a native of Japan; several varie¬ 
ties of it are met with in different lists, but as 
they resemble each other very closely, for all 
practical purposes they are the same. Between M. 
purpurea and the Yulan several hybrids have 
been raised, the best of which is Soulangeana, 
for although it was an accidental seedling 
from M. conspicua, there is no doubt that the 
latter was crossed with M. purpurea, a plant 
of which stood close to it. Soulangeana is in 
all respects intermediate between its two parents. 
It forms a somewhat spreading tree, the flowers 
of which are tinged with purple outside, and 
about a fortnight later than those of the Yulan; 
thus it often escapes frost, and thereby pro¬ 
longs the flowering season till M. purpurea opens 
its blossoms. M. Halleana is very beautiful, 
and very distinct from any of the above. It is 
quite a small growing kind, bearing pure white, 
highly fragrant flowers composed of a number 
of strap-shaped petals, which reflex after opening. 
Although quite hardy, it is well adapted for 
pot culture, and flowers freely under that kind of 
treatment. A. 


Mulchings for tree roots— About two 
years ago I chanced on an interesting article, in 
one of the monthly magazines, on the old trees 
in our public parks. The writer asserted that 
these trees are slowly but surely dying from 
starvation, the craze for tidiness obliging every 
withered leaf to be swept up, and no substitute 
for this food in the way of mulching being given. 
Knowing little of arboriculture, I was somewhat 
sceptical of this writers statements as to the 
quick upward action of tree roots when they can 
reach food. However, I have since found by 
experiment that this upward growth of root 


fibres is very quick. I placed isolated mounds, 
composed of half rotted leaves, garden refuse, 
and a little loam over the roots of several trees- 
These mounds were small, say 3 feet in diameter 
by 18 inches high, and yet in spite of being such 
mere points, subject to great drought at times, 
in five or six months they were full of interlaced 
root fibres. This indeed shows how starved the 
trees standing on a closely shaven lawn must 
be.—8. S. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

NOTES ON CAMELLIAS. 
Camellias which have not been repotted for 
two or three seasons will require that attention 
as they approach the end of the blooming season. 
Many nostrums are propounded for the growth of 
Camellias, and growers succeed fairly well with 
very dissimilar composts. Continental growers 
commonly employ forest leaf-mould for the rear¬ 
ing of small trade plants, and where it can be 
got of the right quality it is used alone. For 
larger plants it is usually either mixed with 
loam or some kind of peat. With us this forest 
soil cannot be obtained of sufficient age. I have 
found that leaf-mould is unsuitable for plants 
in large pots and tubs, becoming in the course of 
a year sour and quite inert towards the centre of 
the'ball, but for trade plants in small pots (6- 
inch ones) it succeeds admirably. One of the 
composts which I have fonnd to answer well for 
large plants exposed to an arid summer air is a 
mixture of one-half loam, of a rich fibry charac¬ 
ter, a little sand, tolerably fine broken charcoal, 
and one half decayed wood earth, that is, refuse 
wood chips, shavings and similar material, includ¬ 
ing a good portion of the bark, which had lain to¬ 
gether for three or four years. The finer portions 
were screened from the coarser, the latter being 
again thrown into a heap, to remain still more 
decayed. This material has all the properties 
of leaf-mould minus the disadvantage of getting 
soured in after years. It also scarcely contains any 
worms or injurious insects. Worms are a great 
annoyance to the Camellia grower, and to prevent 
future trouble all plants in pots should be plunged 
in their summer quarters in beds of clean sand 
or fine gravel, or in lieu of these coal ashes; but 
if growing in wooden tubs it will be enough if 
these are placed on such materials. Cultivators 
often give Camellias too much drainage, thus 
rendering the soil incapable of retaining moisture 
enough for the wants of the plants. One large 
crock or oyster-shell over each hole in the pots 
or tubs with about 1 inch to 2 inch of coarsely 
broken potsherds over them, covering the whole 
with a layer of fibry loam or peat, will be found 
sufficient. 

Guttings. —Now is a good time to insert 
cuttings of either the single or double sorts for 
growing on to form specimens. The single kinds, 
both white and red, and Camellia Waratah, are 
exceedingly showy plants either for rooms or con¬ 
servatories when well bloomed. When grown from 
seed the single sorts grow freely enough, but 
they are more spindly than plants from cuttings, 
although for grafting purposes they grow to the 
thickness of a goose-quill in two years. The 
double kinds grow just as well on their own roots 
as worked, although for trade purposes they are 
usually grafted on the single ones. Cuttings root 
freely if cut just before growth naturally com¬ 
mences. They should be taken off about three 
joints in length, cutting them through just 
under a joint, and leaving the bottom leaf. 
It greatly assists the formation of roots when 
a piece of rind is sliced off for about 1 
inch at the butt end of the cutting. A 
close atmosphere of from 76° to 80°, with from 
85° to 90° bottom-heat, will suit them admirably. 
Pure sand may be used for striking the cuttings 
without any earth at all under it, only they must 
be taken out of it as soon as they have developed 
a good portion of roots ; or sandy earth may be 
employed, which will allow of their remaining in 
it for a longer period if required to do so. The 
young plants succeed very well if planted out in 
a box or pit over a partly exhausted hotbed—if 
consisting of leaves so much the better. In this 
they will make more growth than in pots. 
Shading, with syringing morning and evening, 
will be required on sunny days for three weeks, 
when they must be gradually inured to the full 
sun, without the lights. Young plants require a 
plentiful supply of water during the growing 
period, and an occasional watering with weak 

?N 


MA-CH. 


96 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[April, 28 , 1883 . 


manure water or soot water; the latter is the 
finest tiling for giving a dark green colour to the 
foliage of Azaleas and also Oranges. The single 
ones must be potted the following March if in¬ 
tended for grafting purposes; the others may 
remain for another year in the box, if not too 
crowded, or they may be transferred to another 
frame in the same month, and the same course 
of treatment pursued for another year, when 
they must be potted off. 


MEALY BCG ON PLANTS. 

9601.— From experience of it I can thoroughly 
recommend Hughes's tir tree oil insecticide, 
for the use of which full directions are given on 
the botttle. The mealy bug should never be 
allowed to establish itself in a house, as in such 
a case it is probable that little short of burning 
the building and all its contents will thoroughly 
get rid of it. It is not only the plants but the 
woodwork which becomes covered; and when 
this is the case, the place should be cleared of 
any plants that may be valuable, and the rest 
left to be destroyed The female attains to a 
considerable size. In spring she deposits im¬ 
mense numbers of eggs ; but the breeding takes 
place besides in all other seasons—even in the 
depth of winter. Besides the insecticide I have 
recommended, I will suggest the following reme¬ 
dies : Close all the crevices of the house that 
would admit air, and then bum sulphur at the 
rate of one pound to every 600 cubic feet of 
space the house contains. In twenty-four hours 
the house may be opened, and all the plants, Sec., 
should be burned, and the top 3 inches of soil 
on the borders served in the same manner. The 
woodwork should then be thoroughly cleansed 
with hot soda water or a solution of potash, and 
thoroughly painted. After being thus cleansed, 
care should be taken not to re-introduce infested 
plants. Soft wooded plants, like Melons, are best 
de; troyed, as they will not stand the treatment 
ne essary to destroy bugs. 

A byssinian mixture, applied as directed on the 
hot; les, will clean any plants infested, but it in jures 
tender ones. Strong solutions of size,applied with a 
syringe to hard, smooth foliaged plants, such as 
Camellias, and allowed to dry, will smother the 
insects. Wash off in about twenty-four hours 
with the syringe and warm water. About three 
applications will make a clearance, and when 
once this is effected cleanliness can easily be 
preserved. Plants washed with a soft brush or 
sponge dipped in a solution of Gishurst com¬ 
pound, and well syringed with clean water after¬ 
wards, can be cleaned, if the bug has not taken 
too firm a hold. Constant attention, of course, 
is necessary. If the bug is removed with a brush 
just damped with either salad oil, paraffin oil, 
or diluted spirits ot wine, and a small portion 
be rubbed on the place, the eggs left will be 
destroyed. Of course, this is only useful on the 
stems of Vines and hard-wooded plants, but 
then it is very successful, as a house can soon be 
cleared by it. 

In Vine dressing any of the mixtures advised 
for this purpose will keep the bugs away if the 
Vines are fairly clean when applied. It suffo¬ 
cates the eggs or young bugs. Water at the 
temperature of 100°, and also cold wat er forcibly 
and frequently applied, will clean the worst cases 
of meal bug. Celeb et Audax. 


INSECTS ON EUCIIARIS. 

9687.—“W. J. M.’s” Eucharis plants are, I 
imagine, infested with scale. These insects 
grow until the females are as large as peas, never 
move, and seemjscarcely endowed with life at 
all. The male, however, is small, active, with 
beautiful opaque white win-s twice as long as 
the body, andrichly decorat 1 with carmine; and, 
moreover, with a body of a bright purple hue. 
The female lays about a thousand eggs, to which 
her own now withered skin forms a protection. 
These insects are most difficnlt to eradicate on 
plants where they have existed for any length of 
time, on account of the difficulty experienced in 
getting any insecticide under their shells, and 
especially when they infest such plants as 
Gardenia, Orange trees, Camellias, Heaths, 
Epacris, Orchids, Ac. Evergreen plants are far 
more difficult to treat than deciduous ones; con¬ 
stant scrubbings with soap and water and dips 
into various killing mixt ures are the more general 
and popular remedies. Bnt the scale are difficult 
to smother, and therefore to kill, and are among 
the most troublesome pests of the garden. When 

Digitized by GOOgle 


practicable to apply, smothers composed of various 
mixtures, such as soft soap, Gishurst’s compound, 
Tobacco-water, clay, sulphur, nux-vomica, have 
been tried. This latter, a deadly compound, has 
to be used sparingly in any case; a very 
small quantity, too, suffices to kill the scale if it 
can only be brought into contact with it and 
kept so for a sufficient time; 2 ounces of nux- 
vomica to a gallon of smear has been found 
sufficient to clear the scale from Beach and 
Nectarine trees. 

Besides the aforementioned smears, cleaning 
off by hand has been found a sure method, al¬ 
though slow. On Gardenias and like subjects 
hand cleaning is about the only remedy, except 
when the plants are at rest. The following 
remedies are also suggested : Take some common 
size and dissolve at the rate of 4 pounds to the 
gallon of water, and, while warm, thoroughly 
wet all parts of the infested plants. Let this 
dry on, and in the course of about twenty-four 
hours thoroughly and forcibly wash off with 
warm water, using a syringe or garden engine 
for the purpose. This plan removes the insects 
mechanically. 

Paraffin oil, at the rate of half a fluid ounce to 
the gallon of water (in which quarter pound of 
soap has been previously dissolved), kept well 
agitated with the syringe while using, is a good 
remedy for scale. Wash off in an hour after 
using. Neither of the preceding can be used 
on other than smooth-leaved plants, as 
Camellias, Ac.; on woolly or hairy foliage they 
could not be again washed off, and the plants 
would suffer in consequence. Hughes’s fir tree 
oil insecticide is most effectual, and does not 
require to be washed off after dipping or syring¬ 
ing the plants. Celeb et Audax. 


Propagating double PrimulaB. — 

There are some double Primulas which cannot 
be raised true from seeds ; the only way. there¬ 
fore, of increasing them is to propagate them 
from cuttings, and now is a good time to per¬ 
form that operation. With us, and doubtless 
with others, double-flowering Primulas are more 
branching than the single kinds; some of our 
old double-flowered plants have as many as a 
dozen side growths on them at the present time, 
others have fewer, but all have some, and of 
these every one will be converted into a cutting. 
Some have naked stems several inches in height; 
others are well furnished close down to the soil. 
The former are hardiest and easiest rooted; the 
latter need most care, being rather inclined to 
damp off if any excess of moisture gets about 
them. In taking the cuttings each should be 
cut clean through, as far down as possible, with 
a sharp knife, and if any can readily be secured 
with a little bit of root attached to them all the 
better. When any of the leaves have to be re¬ 
moved from the cuttiDgs they should be gently 
drawn off from the axil, and not cut, as this 
makes an objectionable wound. The best way 
of treating them is to pot them singly into 
21-inch pots, using a mixture of sand and 
leaf-soil in equal parts, with the addition of 
a little fine charcoal. This being done, they 
should be plunged in a little bottom-heat if pos¬ 
sible—from 60° to 70° being enough—and the 
temperature of the atmosphere may be about 
the same. One watering may be given at first, 
but little afterwards until they have formed 
roots, as water is more liable to do harm than 
good. Our cuttings root in about a fortnight, 
and as soon as that takes place they are with¬ 
drawn from the bottom-heat, but still kept in 
rather a warm house or pit until they are estab¬ 
lished, when they are shifted into larger pots, 
and grown on like ordinary Primulas.— Cam¬ 
brian. 

Slebold s Primrose (Primula Sieboldi) 
and its varieties.—These are well suited for 
greenhouse decoration ; for, although hardy, 
under glass their flowers are much richer 
in colour than when unprotected. Large masses 
of them may be grown in pots or pans, or a 
very useful way is to have single-flowering 
plants in small pots, as they may then be used 
for decorative purposes where space is limited. 
To ensure this end shake out the plants in winter 
and pot all the plump eyes singly in sandy loam 
and set them in a cold frame till the blossoms 
commence to expand, when they should be re¬ 
moved to the house. The small crowns may be 
potted several together in a large pot, when in 
one season they will reach a flowering size. After 


the blooming season is over plunge the pots it: 
cool, shady position out-of-doors, and keep then 
moderately moist during the summer, by whii ! 
means they will root and grow vigorously. Tti 
following are distinct and good, viz., Clarkisefloi a 
bright in colour, but somewhat small; ccerul*; 
alba, white tinged with bine; Hermia, deep 
purplish lilac; laciniata, a red with beautiful;; , 
fringed petals; lilacina marginata, whitish 
edged with lavender; Pink Beauty, delicate 
pink and much fringed ; purpurea, deep purpk 
Vincasflora, a variety which in general appear 
ance reminds one of Vinca minor.—II. P. 

Heliotropes.— Four years ago I plantc ! 
out a Heliotrope against the back wall of a 
vinery; it grew apace, and by the time it hat 
been twelve months planted it had tilled in 
allotted space—about 144 square feet. Could 
we have allowed it more wall surface it evident!; 
would have covered as much more in anotkr 
year. It has been in bloom I might say ever 
since, and by a judicious use of the knife we tan 
have it more or less in bloom at any particular 
time of the year, winter being the season it 
which it is most appreciated. In order to havt 
it in bloom then we give it a partial cut over in 
autumn. 1 say partial, for pruning is done 
piecemeal and cautiously and on the spur sv-- 
tem, cutting off all the long shoots only, an; 
leaving the shorter ones to do duty until we 
require to take them off, which we generally dc 
about Christmas. During summer the shat, 
become much drawn on account of the fofiaye 
and shade from the Vines, but we do not make 
ourselves uneasy about that, as bloom is not s. 
much thought of then as in winter : nevertk- 
less, bloom there is if required, which, at thi- 
season, is almost white on account of If* 
heavy shade, so much so that I have fre¬ 
quently been asked if it was a white variety 
When the Vine leaves fall the growth soot 
becomes more stubby, and the flow ers assuint 
their natural hue. Not only do we find thi; 
plant serviceable in keeping us supplied with its 
sweet-smelling flowers, but from it we get yearly 
a full supply of cuttings for flower garden me. 
saving us the necessity of keeping a stock in pots 
from which to get cuttings. We cut over again 
partially asabove about Christmas, and by March 
we have nice young growths from which we take 
our stock of cuttings. As this is the season most 
suitable forplantingout, I would recommendany- 
one who has the convenience to plant our a 
Heliotrope, believing if they do they will not be 
disappointed as to the results, provided they can 
place it in a suitable position. I may here re¬ 
mark that the position in which we nave ours» 
not the best, as will be seen from the above,but 
on the whole it answers very well. The vinery 
in question throughout the winter months is 
kept at a temperature fluctuating from 35° to 
45°, according to the outside temperature, and 
being the then rendezvous of Camellias, Azalea.-, 

&C., it must necessarily be kept up to about that 
temperature, suiting to perfection the Heliotrope 
and other things therein. For pot culture we 
grow the dwarf dark Imperial and Bose Supreme , 
a variety which came ont two or three years ago, 
and which is a decided acquisition, being a 
robust grower and producing very large trusses 
of a decided pinky colour.—S. K. 

Geraniums for winter bloom.—I am 

pleased to see that someone has at last induced 
“A. B. T., East Anglia," to give ns some expla¬ 
nation of his meaning that Geraniums require 
no special treatment to induce them to bloom in 
winter, though it does not amount to much, as be 
wanders away from the question at issue, which, 
by the way, was the treatment for winter bloom, 
not continuous bloom. I do not wish to contra¬ 
dict his statement that they will bloom moDth 
after month without the help of any stimulant 
whatever, but the impossibility of their giving 
anything like satisfaction is too evident to be 
commented upon. Without wishing to put him 
to any inconvenience, I should like to ask him 
two questions. First—Does he get from his con¬ 
tinuous bloomers (in winter I mean) the same 
quantity and quality of bloom, and the same 
sturdy, robust plants, as would be obtained 
from an equal number of plants properly pre¬ 
pared the summer preceding 1 Second—Can he 
give his Geraniums the proper temperature re¬ 
quired to induce them to bloom freely, which 
should be 50° at the lowest, and still at the same 
time let his Vines have a proper season of rest 7 
According to the experience of mnch older 


J 



April 28, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


97 


growers than myself, the heat required to bloom 
the Geraniums with any degree of satisfaction 
would be most disastrous to Vines that did not 
npen their fruit till September.— W. G. Jewitt, 
Headinghty. 

FREESIAS AND THEIR CULTURE. 
These fine greenhouse bulbs from the Cape are 
not nearly so well known as they should be, for 
their uses are innumerable and their culture so 


they received plenty of air, but were not abun¬ 
dantly watered until the foliage began to show 
up, which was in about six weeks. They wei e 
kept in the same airy house till the middle of 
January, when they showed abundance of flower- 
spikes. Early in that month they were tied up, 
each plant to a slight stick about 15 inches long. 
F. Leichtlini, however, does not require such 
long supports. They were then removed to a 
span-roofed house containing Pelargoniums and 


then there was a rapid succession. The arrange¬ 
ment of the smaller spikes on the main flowering 
shoot is like that of the Sparaxis. The flowers 
on the centre spike open first, and are uninter¬ 
ruptedly succeeded by those on the side shoots 
and I feel confident that by adopting the ordinary 
methods of advancing and retarding their blooms 
they might easily be had in flower for two 
months. When the first bloom-spikes appear, 
for instance, let them be taken to a waim house 


A winter-flowering bulb for a cool greenhouse (Preesia refracts alba). Flowers white and sweetly scented. 



eaay that they should certainly be in every place 
in which there is even a frame. This season we 
treated our stock as follows: We potted six 
bclbs in a 6-inch pot on July 24, 1882, the top of 
the bulbs being about 2£ inches below the surface 
of the soil — a compost of fibry loam, sand, and 
thoroughly decomposed manure (old hotbed), 
with a slight dash of peat and wood ashes. After 
being potted they were placed in a Vinery from 
whlcn the crop had been cut; here, of course, 

Digitize^ by GOOglC 


a general collection of plants, and ventilated on 
every favourable opportunity. They had now 
occasionally a weak application of guano water 
or a pinch of Standen's manure sprinkled over 
the top and mixed with the surface soil. At first 
they appeared to be very weak, not even suffi¬ 
ciently strong to maintain their flower-spikes, 
bnt the stems gradually thickened, and the re¬ 
sult was all that could be desired. The first long- 
looked-for bloom expanded on February 7, and 


and placed in a good sunny possition ; while for 
late flowers, another lot might be grown in a 
light, well-ventilated, cold frame. Abundance of 
light is, with Freesias as with nearly all Cape 
bulbs, an absolute necessity. 

F. Leichtlini, F. refracta alba, and F. major 
are the only forms with which I am acquainted, 
although they appear in catalogues under different 
synonyms. F. Leichtlini, the first form intro¬ 
duced, I believe, greatly resembles a Tritonia of 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






















GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[April 28 , 1883 , 


th« crocata section It is of a clear creamy- which would soon spoil them by making them about a dozeD seed pods, each containing sera 
yellow colour, mottled in the throat with deep unshapely and late in flowering. If required to or eight seeds, some of which I am now going to 
orange, and sweet scented. This variety is most form a compact bush the leading shoot should be sow.-Zeta. 

useful as a dwarf pot plant. Its foliage, stopped, and also some of the side shoots. By 9588.—Training Lycopode.—Pyramids of 
which is much broader than that of any letting the leader grow and training up the side Lycopodium may be formed in several different 
other of the genus, varies in height from shoots, the plants form very pretty pyramids wa ys, but I have seen very fine ones formed ai 

G inches to 1 foot. ’ Of F. major, little can which are both graceful and attractive.— follows. Have a flat piece of board of the desired 

be said; its colour is an undecided yellow, C. Dabbs, Tunbridge W elU. size for the base, with stout wires let into it 

and the’ flowers are small, at least so they-Fuchsias are of extremely diverse round the board, and fastened together at the 

proved with us. It grows from 15 inches habits of growth, the greater portion assuming top in a slanting position, so as to form a regn- 

to 18 inches high. F. refracta alba, on the con- naturally a pyramidal form up to a certain lar cone, wire of slighter texture being pm 

trary, may be looked upon as the very cream of size, and then becoming bushes if left to grow’ round to keep the soil in. Some partly decayed 
recent introductions from the Cape. It is, I naturally. If the leading shoot is stopped it is turf or peat is the best soil to use, and this should 
think, destined to be a favourite with the more conducive to forming the plant into bush be firmly packed inside the wire cage. Ufcen 
London bouquet people, and also for general form early. Fuchsias should not be stood out- ready, little rooted pieces of Lycopod should be 
cultivation. Its white, though pure, is slightly doors until the middle of May, or even later, dibbled regularly over the surface. Keep the soil 
relieved by a tint of yellow, and also occa- and prior to that should be well hardened by ex- constantly moist by syringing, and if placed in a 
sionally by a few pale lilac streaks half way posure to light and air in the greenhouse. The warm moist house shaded from sunshine, you will 
down the tube. The stem is refracted, so as to position out-of-doors should be one sheltered soon have verdant pyramids of Lycopod. Anotha 
make it the beau Ideal of a bouquet flower; its from strong winds, and if a little shady so much way is to take a broad flat pan, and in this set > 
fragrance, too, is delightful, and the power of the better. Fuchsias in the summer rather pre- flower-pot of a size to allow of the soil being put 
endurance of the flowers in a cut state is well fer a cool temperature.—A. D. around it in a circle sloping upwards to form the 

known. Even the unexpanded blooms open _p r i inu i aa _l find the following the bottom of a cone. This flower-pot should then be 

after being cut. This variety varies from 1 foot J^ode 0 f lowing Primulas from seed:- one-third filled with Mil, and another flower- 
to 2 feet in height. H. 0. S. ““ in March, April, June, and July, in pots P»t of a smaller size set into H int to 

-Freesias may be cultivated outdoors on ^ “0 within haH-an-inch of the top with good “1.1 a regular pyramid is formed, fitog he 

sheltered borders in the south of England, but “^ouldLeave the surface rough, and sprinkle "JJf edges with fine sandy soil and in tto 
they are much more beautiful when grown in the see a rather thinly upon it. Do not cover the dibble smalltuftsof Ljcopodium.SetitmawKE 
pots in a cool frame and brought into the con- ^^ e wlth Boll but t f e Lr the pot a piece of moist house, keep shaded and syringed, and. 
servatory to flower. Thus managed, they may thin paper if the seeds are dry water the paper, beautiful P> ranlKl ? f L >‘j®P od “>° n k 

be had in blossom as early as the middle of and t h e n plunge the pots in a good bottom heat f° I ' me . <i Jlie beautiful club Moss known a, 
January. They last in bloom for three or four *nd they will lerminate in one or two weeks, belaginella 1 denticulate grows fraly either in. 
weeks, after which the plant should be gradually n 6 v er ahow thesurface of the soil to become cool greenhouse or a hot, moist stove, but tafer 
ripened and dried off. A dry place out-of-doors or the lo^ of all theseed is certain. When best when kept m cool quarters, being sturdier a 

should be given them in summer. In autumn ^tteTnuy be growth and altogether better for decorative pur- 

they may be shaken out of the old soil and, and tted the same fe a3 seedlings.- P osea than when grown in heat. J. G. BanU. 

repotted into a compost of loam, peat, and a A H DAVigt (jarshalton . 9595.— Plants for carpets. — The clnb 

little manure. Plunge the pots in ashes in a * - M VnrvfhmFpnm Moss, Selaginella denticulata, is the best of all 

cool, light frame, and as the plants grow a 9576. Hare 8-foot Fern. ry plants for carpeting a rootery in a shaded 

liberal supply of water should be given them, require more perfect drainage than this, and the *; reenhogse ^m^ow in very little soil if 
Care should be taken not to allow cold currents very best and indeed the only way of growing g moist> and on roots or an ,. kM c i 
of air topass thiough the frame, or injury to it thoroughly well is to plant it in a wire basket. drainage it wiu keep health y much 

the young leaves will be the result. Z. B. Hare s-foot herns extend by means of creeping )nnDf((T than nn solid M if keDt very 



I longer than on solid soil, as if kept very 


- stems, winch nave to attach inemseives m some- = 8uch ltion8 it is liable to rot ‘ ofl . ] 

Pinching or stopping planta.-fn ^/may f W f ^'‘7 

articles on floriculture the following advice is lin< f d wi th Moss, and filled nearly to the rim Mosses, such as are foundunder toedeepEtoi 
often to be met with: “When the plant has with a 1 ’ fibroa8 pea t, these creeping of excellent carpet tarsi 

attained the desired height pinch out the top; rhizomes will, when the plant comes into a position as that desenbed,as when k p - 
this will cause lateral growth and make nice thriving state, and is growing freely, gradually the ^’ "i, 1 ’ luxuriantly and pro e <ay ^ 
bushy plants," &c. On reading such advice as find their way down the sides of the basket, and some. The I lttomas make very handsom catpa 
the above I always wonder on how many plants wd [ ^ that manner drape it with its ele- rug plants, and for unxing with the L 
the writer has so operated The fact is that tly cut foliage. . The next best thing to a • ’ *f?T£een Jste 


the very worst material you could have from cloc k and 601nc silver sand. Now is a good .- 

which tu build swell furnished plant. The young time to repot. Keep the soil nicely moist, and T7Ti'nti’ r P a tit ma 

plant should be allowed to attain at least one- sba d e from hot sun—J. Cobnhill, By fleet. v ian Liiaa. 

9577.— Eucalyptus globulus.— This de- Soarlet Runners. -About here whe* 
t pvprv pvp lpft^ Side shoots should be stopped man ^8 a large amount of sun and light during gardens are of very limited extent, the Scarlet 

totoelSe wav but^ for ntote in small S the summer, and if continuously kept in a close | unner forms the staple of the vegetable pit- 

rj^^ stonnin. jvtol fivl or siTshortTto room, it will in time lose the greater portion dacts that can be grown in them. The soils 

a nlant will be\>\m<fsufficient.—S. S. of its folia ? e - If the window cannot be open deeply cultivated and enriched, and the seed 

P ’ long at a time, place it on the ledge or in the sown from the middle to end of April, and & 

9589.— G-eraniums and Heliotropes.-- open during the warmest part of the day when soon as the plants are up, either sticks are 
44 Little Gardener r must pot off his cuttings of mild, leaving it there all night in fine weather, placed for their support or strings are stretched 
Geraniums immediately into 3-inch pots, and (j ive plenty of water in hot weather.—J. C. B. along the face of the wall, for it is against the 

those intended for pot culture must be repotted _ Arums after flowering — Al- walls that they are chiefly grown, and if kept 

as soon as they fill the pots with roots I never 9586. Arums Ubera l ly supplied with water at the roots, it s 

aliow my Heliotropes to flower unt, they mre ^XeyCe doomed toattheyma? racu£- surprising tS quantity of produce even a t* 
^n the buds -A H rate and increase in the open ground, yet where plants will yield. The Beans must be kept 
h 11 h b d A ' H ' the stock consists of but a couple of plants, it closely gathered as soon as large enough, for» 
DAVIS, Canhalton. of Heliotrones would, perhaps, be safest to shift into pots a size left to get seedy they soon bring the plants to 

.~7” putting in cuttings of Heliotropes ^ er us i nK f or the BO n good turfy loam and state of exhaustion. It is when diy at the rco! 
pmch out any flowers on the shoots, as these ^ ^ , and inBtead of plunging the pots that the flowers drop off without setting. B* 

woidd render the cutting no assistance bu “ ound ; rather to sta nd them on slates or best way to keep the roots moist is a H 

would rather hinder grow th. In thecase of taes to “ xcIude wormSi Bnd heap up around the preparation of the soil before sowing the seed 
autumn-struck ° £ ]d bedd ' n ? G ® tted ’ po ts either ashes or cocoa fibre refuse. Great and as soon as the plants begin to run up to 

most ce^mlj they sho^d now be po^i^ 01 P care must be taken that the roots do not suffer strings, put a good coating of manure oyer to 
e ^ +1 a' *i a j from want of moisture during the summer.—D. roots at least 2 feet wide, and on this po 

of the pots, the roots gently divided so as to do ' / B ^ liberal supplies of liquid manure, house slops, or 

as little injury as possible, and then each one 9684,-Oalvary Clover.-Two years ago wa ^ r . This useful vegetable has to 

repotted into 3-inch pots, put into the shade in a I had four seeds given me, which I sowed m a advantage of being ornamental as wall * 

bouse or frame for a short time, and so induced little heat. That year the plants had Clover £ seful and many a bar * piece of brickwork^ 
to make fresh roots and become established.—A. leaves, but on each leaf was the distinct mark of rp -j prpd lpS( , obiectionable when covered with 
- “ Little Gardener "should certainly pot a red serrated leaf, not a ted spot. It remained ^‘ nners J As ds there are to 

_l:. f :.—,-F/-.W if norrlnntoH t hnv m tlm m-ponhnuca tkirnnrrh t.no wintpr crrnwin & I . . ° . j T onv 


be allowed to have flower-buds on them; they or 10 inches with small green leaves and no treated , and this is the time to commence their 
should be pinched out immediately they make marks. The flower is very small and yellow; lt f t he vear— James Groom, QoW^- 

a_• _* _^.ill nnf rnrvt rlvnnn o e-mail rrrnon nnrl io CPPri u J * ’ 


liable to hav> 


re light frosts ai d cn 

CiO gie 


cutting winds, I compare it to a crown of thorns. Mine produced I celsior, Leamington, Burghlev Champion, 


April 28, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


99 


a-st, bat not least, Cattell’s Late White. I find 
fc» 5s selection to last up to the middle of May, 
the hand-light Cauliflowers succeed them. 
-R. G. 

Badly flavoured Mushrooms.— The 

rr eat point to be kept in view in growing Mush- 
oems is to keep all the ammonia possible in the 
n anure, instead of drying it out under sheds, as 
o many do. Ours are grown in lean-to beds, on 
Lich they make their appearance in huge 
■clusters; but remember our spawn is good and 
iresh. It can be bought good, but may be made. 
r> ne bushel of sheep manure and one bushel of 
rorse manure well worked up with a small drop 
> f manure water, and well beaten down in the 
corner of a damp cellar is the way to produce 
3.- bat I term natural spawn. That at least is my 
way.—R, G. 

Mushroom culture in the meadows. 

-The following mode of growing Mushrooms 

n meadows by one of our customers may be in- 
•eresting to your readers. In March he begins 
L o collect droppings from the stables. These, 
w hen enough have been gathered together, are 
uxaken into the meadow,where holes dug here and 
t Iiere, about 1 foot or 18 inohes square, are filled 
with them, the soil removed being scattered over 
tine surrounding Grass. When all the holes have 
been filled and made solid he then places two 
three pieces of spawn, about 1 inch square, in 
each hole, treads all down firmly, replaces the 
turf, and beats it tightly down. Under this 
system, in August and September Mushrooms 
appear without fail in abundance and without 
any further care. The method is simple and the 
result certain. Therefore, all who happen to 
brave a meadow paddock, or Grass field, and are 
fond of Mushrooms should try the experiment, 
Now is a good time to do so, and, of course, the 
more holes spawned the greater the crop. In 
the case in question fresh holes were spawned 
every year, though that operation may not be 
absolutely necessary.—J ames Cabter & Co. 


FRUIT. 


Li me washing Gooseberry trees.— 

There is a practice which largely prevails in 
Lancashire and Yorkshire amongst Gooseberry 
growers, viz., that of limewashing the main 
terns and thick wood of all Gooseberry bushes 
in the early spriDg months, before the trees 
come into leaf. It tends to keep away insects, 
and it also keeps the bark in good condition. 
This limewashing is done in two ways, one is by 
putting on the limewash about the consistency 
of cream with a paint brush, and the other is by 
dusting the trees with quicklime on a wet day. 
By either process there is a little lime thrown on 
the soil about the trees, which is an advantage. 
—G. C., JEccka. 

9600. — Strawberry bloom. — Without 
doubt frost is the cause of Strawberry blooms 
becoming blackened in the centre. It is the 
common result of white frost, (which in such 
case destroys the organs of fertility. It is not 
stated whether the flowers in question were 
under glass or out doors; but that such blacken¬ 
ing should take place on flowers of plants under 
glass is unusual. In the latter case it is possible 
that the flowers are sterile or the organs have 
not been properly fertilised.—A. D. 

Melons In hotbed.—! beg to call attention to an 
error in nay article on this subject, In Gardening, April 
14 , page 77. It is said, page 77, middle column, near top, 
■ - The frame should ‘ now 4 be quite closed " It should 
Larc been 14 The frame should ‘ never 4 be quite closed. 4 '— 
.!. S. W. _ 


“ The Ethics of Diet.” lly Howard Wil¬ 
liams, M A. London : F. Pitman, 20, Paternoster 
Row._This is an excellent book with a some¬ 

what awkward title. It attempts to give, and 
does give in a very full and interesting way, 
the ideas and some account of the habits of life 
of the great number of men in all ages who de¬ 
precated coarse, sensual living, and by their 
example showed that the highest physical and 
mental life was possible through light and 
■wholesome food, mostly derived from the vege¬ 
table kingdom. It is very closely packed with 
authorities and interesting facts, and is a large 
full book, with a fair index, which every book 
-bonlfi have, but rather poor and hard in the 
printing. We recommend the book to all who 
interested in the food question. It covers a 
wide field—from Hesiod, ei^Tt^^ries 


It covers a 


Byron and Shelley—both of whom disliked the 
butcher’s goods. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(miscellaneous.) 

9597.— Peat Mobs.—I find this is used here 
in some of the largest stables, and I feel sure it 
will make a very valuable manure, as it absorbs 
all the mammal elements that would be wasted 
when long litter is used. There may not be 
much actual plant food in the Peat Moss itself, 
but the object is to get an article that will re¬ 
tain the liquid that would be wasted in the 
stable drains, and this, I think, the Moss in 
question does most effectually, and it is fit for 
digging into the soil at once, or for surface 
dressing any kind of crop, being short in tex¬ 
ture, and altogether preferable for many garden 
purposes to long stable litter. But I intend 
putting it to the test of actual trial at once, and 
will send a report of its value later in the 
season.— James Groom, Seajicld Nursery, Gos¬ 
port. 

9596.— Asphalt© pavement.— In making 
an asphalte floor in any place the soil should be 
excavated to a depth of not less than G inches, 
filling up 4 inches with concrete made of rough 
gravel ;four parts to one of Portland cement, 
mixed wet, and then laid in and rammed down. 
On that should come another mixture of finer 
gravel without Band, and one-third of Portland 
cement, pressed down and smoothed, and finally 
a surface about a quarter of an inch in thickness 
of clean, sharp sand and Portland cement in 
equal proportions, nicely smoothed over and 
slightly rounded on the surface to throw off 
the water. The cement must be of the best 
quality. Such a path or floor should, well made, 
endure for all time.—A. D. 

9550.— Orickets in plant houses.— 

In any houses where poisons would be objec¬ 
tionable, fresh Rhubarb leaves, or oatmeal and 
salt, will be found very useful, as will also 
carbolic acid poured into their holes. These 
insects are destroyed as are cockroaches. The 
ordinary beetle-traps sold at oilshops if baited 
with honey or sprinkled with beer will catch 
large quantities. Basins partly filled with beer, 
or beer and water, and having a few sticks 
placed against the sides to form a road, will 
also be found successful. Soda-water or cham¬ 
pagne bottles partly filled with beer and water or 
weak honey syrup, and sunk into the earth, will 
prove very effective traps if not too often dis¬ 
turbed.— Celer et Audax. 

9543.— Coloured glass for conserva* 
tory. —The pictures required by “Conserva¬ 
tory ” are to be had from McCaw, Stevenson & 
On, Belfast, and are very cheap. In fixing on, 
they merely require to be rubbed over with a 
damp sponge, and placed against the glass; each 
pane should contain a complete picture, so that 
the dimensions should be given when ordering. 
The light shining through gives all the appear¬ 
ance of stained glass.— Dublin. 

9586.— Flowers for small gardens.— 

“ Beginner ” might plant his beds somewhat 
after the following fashion. Edge with Pyreth- 
rum (Golden Feather), then a line of blue 
Lobelia, and in the middle Scarlet and White 
Geraniums. The seed of Pyrethrum must be 
sown immediately, and also the Lobelia, but it 
would be better to buy the Geraniums when 
wanted.—A. H. Davis, CarshaXton . 

9469— Hyacinths in pots.— Deficiency 
of light, probably in the earlier stage of 
growth, is likely to be the cause of the 
foliage becoming lanky. As soon as the leaves 
appear above the soil get the plants as near the 
glass as possible, and do not give them more 
than 65° early in the year. Too much heat in 
the dark days has the same effect, but the 
nearer the glass the less damage.—J. C. B. 

9597. — Peat Moss. — I have tried Peat Moss and 
find it does not answer for bedding for liorses. It is im¬ 
possible to keep the horses clean, also it stops the drains 
up in the stable. It is not good manure for gardens in 

g eneral, but it might do on very heavy clay land, to 
gliten It up a little.— (4. ¥. W. 


Black butt.—A. J., Langton .—Your bedding plants, 
&c.. are attacked I believe by the young grubs of the 
Daddy Longlegs (Tipula oleracea), but the grubs were so 
shrivelled and smashed that I cannot be certain ; if not 
this, however, they are the grubs of some nearly allied 
insect. Good traps made be made for them by sticking 


wooden skewers into pieces of potatoes, turnips, &c,, 
burying the bait about an inch or so below the surface. 
Examine them every morning ; the grubs at night often 
come to the surface and roam about. A small patch of 
ground may be kept free from them by surrounding it 
with a ring of gas lime, which the grubs will not cross.— 
G. S. 8. 

Weeping: trees.—©. D. T. P— There is no way of 
making trees assume a drooping habit except that of 
tying down the branches, and then they always have an 
unnatural appearance. It is, of course, possible to graft, 
say a Weeping Ash on the common Ash, but as you did 
not say what your trees are, we cannot advise you on the 
subject. 

Omphalodes verna. — East Anglia. — This is a 
hardy perennial, and it is not likely you will find it in a 
seed catalogue. Omphalodes linifolia (Venus Navelwort) 
is a hardy annual raised easily from seed, and its flowers 
are white. Those of O. verna are blue. The plants can 
be got at any good hardy plant nursery, and W’ill be found 
in any catalogue of hardy plants. 

Ensilage.— D. J. P.— This is a word used in speak¬ 
ing of the preservation of fodder in a green state for 
cattle. 

Arum Lily.— E. E. F. //.—The flower sent had two 
spathes, not at all an uncommon occurrence in the Arum 
Lily. 

Boughlon,— The flower of Cowslip sent is what is 

known as lIose-in-13ose, not at all uncommon.- A 

Guernsey Subscriber. —“ The Orchard House,” by Thomas 

ltivers, Sawbridgeworth, Herts.- Poor Window.— In 

answering your questions we might employ a good many 
words to little purpose. Your best plan would be to ask 
your neighbours the questions, and they will be able to 

Bhow you all you want to know in a minute.- W. S.— 

Ti e Crocus is always considered to be a spring flower, 
but many kinds flower in winter if the weather is favour¬ 
able ; indeed some kinds flower naturally in autumn. 

- W. H. U .—Any of the firms who advertise hardy 

plants in Gakdsnlnq wiU supply you. 

J. S. S.— Yours is a case entirely for a lawyer. Of 
course you would be entitled to build a wall, fence, or 
screen in front of the windows, and so obstruct the view, 
if you were inclined to do so. You should object to the 

windows by letter at once.- J. T. F.— The Grass named 

is probably Isolepis gracilis. It is not hardy, but will 
succeed in a cool house. The index to Gardening can 

be had from the office, post free, 1 j<L- C. <?., Shoreditch. 

—The bones should not be burned. We do not know 

where the bean spoken of can be got in this country.- 

Persian Cat.— Your question is not admissible. 

Names of plants. —«/. D.— 1. DavaUia canariensis, 

the Fern with rhizome ; 2, Aspidium aculeatum.- 

J. ,H. A. —1, Primula denticulata; 2, Scilla italics ; 3, 

Muscaria bo try old ea.- X. P.—l, Saxifraga muscoides; 

2, Pulmonaria angustifolia; 3, Corydalia bulbosa.- 

Miss A. Ilopper.—Allium ueapolitanum.- A. E. Tom- 

kinson .—Helleborus feetidus- M. Robinson. — Epime- 

dium pinnatum (yellow), Omphaloides verna (blue), 

Corydalis bulbosa.- Mary M.—\. Muscari botryoides ; 

2, Saxifraga ligulata; 3, Erica carnea ; 4, Primula species, 

probably villosa.- T. H. R.— Habrothamnus fascularis. 

- Chiff .—Aubrietia deltoides and variegated form. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents—AH communwa- 
tions/or insertion should oe clearly and concisely written 
on. one ride of the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the Publisher. The name 
and address of the sender is required , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should alicays bear the number and title of the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece of paper. Qwing to the necessity of 
Gardening goinji to press a considerable time before the 
day of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

9^47.—Plants for fish ponds —We have lately 
made some small ponds, 12 feet long by 0 feet wide and 
2 feet 0 inches deep, for rearing trout. They are situ¬ 
ated close to a stream in Kent, and will have a constant 
flow of water through them. I wish to grow some white 
Water Lilies in the ponds, and some Irises and bulrushes 
on the banks of the stream. Will any reader kindly in¬ 
form me what sorts of the above are most likely to suc¬ 
ceed, and if the present is a suitable time for planting 
them ? The bottoms of the ponds are to be gravelled, 
and the sides bricked ; would this be Ukely to interfere 
with the growth of the Lilies ? The soil is clay.— N. T. 

9048. —Labourers’ cottages. — I am anxious to 
build a small lodge gate to serve as a good labourer’s 
cottage. “ M. A. Cantab’s ” letters in Gardenino lead 
me to think that the style of cottages in which he is 
interested would exactly suit me. I like the Elizabethan 
style, and only doubt whether they would come within 
my limi ts as to price. Can 1 build a small cottage in that 
style for £100 or £120, and to whom should I apply for 
plans and estimates ? I can have a plain cottage at the 
price down here, built of brick with latticed windows.— 
P. A. G., Sussex. 

9049. —Laying out a garden.—Would some reader 
kindly suggest how asmalisuburban garden, 120 feet long 
by 20 feet broad, could most pleasingly be laid out, 
making the most ef the limited space, so that a few peren¬ 
nials and perhaps a hardy Rose or two might be grown ? 
It is bounded on one side by a Privet hedge and on the 
other by a wall 5 feet high, with a narrow border next it 
planted with Currant trees. There is one walk on the 
wall side, running to the end of the garden, which is 
closed in with out-offices. The situation isS.W.— Dublin. 

9650.— Cherry tree losirg its fruit.—I have a 
Napoleon Cherry tree on a south wall 9 feet high. It is 
perfectly healthy, and blooms In one mass every year ; 
the fruit sets freely, but every one falls off before they 
come to maturity. Can anyone kindly give a reason for 
this? Peaches, Nectarines, and Plums do well on the 
same wall. They do not get root-pruned or top-dressed, 
H. G. S. 




Digitized by 


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Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



April 28, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


101 


ill the attention of your readers to the follow- 
i g remarks : I have had several persons call on 
>e within the last few weeks, saying that their 
in&ries were not singing, and asking for a 
>medy, if possible. I have had a look at the 
irds, and in every case 1 have found the cause 
d be insects in the cage and on the bird. I ■ 
'ould advise all who have canaries which have 
eased singing to look to their cages, and if at 
be corners or at the ends of the perches 
here appears a kind of white powder then 
here is undoubtedly insects. In such cases 
cmove the bird into a fresh cage; let it 
ave a bath when it is quite dry; dust in¬ 
set powder well into its feathers, especially 
nder the wings. Now for the cage. If possible, 
pmerse it for a few seconds in a copper of 
oiling water, or loosen all the joints, and scrub 
ell with hot water; then, when dry, wash all 
le joints with paraffin oil. Let- it go well into 
le woodwork, especially into the holes where 
ic wires go in. In twenty-four hours re-intro- 
uce the bird, and in nine cases out of ten it 
nil sing within a week or two. — G. W. Single- 
•ox. 

-There is little doubt that if 1 Game, who 

omplains of his canary losing its song and also 
i & feathers, continues to feed it on such a pecu- 
ar diet as he states, the bird will very soon 
ie. In the first place, much hempseed is bad 
or canaries confined in small cages, and to give 
leat seems to me absurd for seed-eating birds. 
l little hard-boiled egg occasionally, or a small 
iece of sponge cake, but only in case of weak 
ealth or when breeding. The staple of their 
ood should be good rape and canary seed, and 
ood wholesome green food, such as Watercress, 
rroundsel, Chick weed, Plantain (when ripe in 
he autumn), Lettuce, or any small cress such as 
•ould be eaten in salad, and by all means give it 
lentyof clean water to drink and bathe in, and 
•lenty of clean sand in the cage.—H. J. D. 

Breeding canaries. —I must entirelv d’s- 
ent from Mr. Singleton’s opinion that can?.r es 
io best when put up in pairs; for my experience 
n this point is not small, and I have had much 
•etter results from two hens to one cock, than 
rom a single pair. The birds must become 
horoughly accustomed to each other, and to in- 
-roduce a second hen after the first one had laid 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 

Hot piokl© for hams — B. P.— The same 
pickle does very well again, with the addition 
of a little more of the ingredients already used. 
I think it safer to add more salt and saltpetre, 
as naturally a good deal must have been ab¬ 
sorbed by the hams already pickled. I am not 
learned enough to say why the salt, and espe¬ 
cially bay salt, does not quite dissolve in boiling. 
I suppose it is because the liquid cannot 
take up any more. But I always have all 
the ingredients well crushed and mixed 
with the liquid the night before they are 
boiled, and well stirred then and during the 
boiling, also well rubbed into tbe hams until 
they are taken out of the pickle. But this was 
not insisted upon in the original recipe. When 
the hams have hung in a draughty place to dry 
for a month, they should be most carefully 
covered up in bags to keep out the flies, and I 
would suggest that it is getting late to pickle now, 
as if flies get access to the hams whilst drying, 
nothing will prevent their eggs hatching inside 
the bags in the warm weather, so that, however 
carefully they may have been pickled in the first 
place, the result will be disastrous to the keeping 
of the hams. I can only reiterate that they will 
never fail if properly done, and that I am using 
some now in splendid condition, which are two 
years old.—M. H. 

To preserve eggs. —Two and a quarter 
pounds of unslaked lime, six ounces of salt, half 
an ounce of cream of tartar, to three gallons of 
water. Pour the water boiling over the lime and 
salt. When cold add the cream of tartar. 7 ‘ s nt 
the eggs in the day after. The lime will remain 
at the bottom of the vessel in which the eggs are 
put. Should the water become turbid pour it off 
and supply the lime, etc., with a fresh infusion. 
This may be done by boiling water to dissolve 
more of the same lime, but it must be perfectly 
cold before the eggs are put in again. The eggs 
must always be covered with the liquid, and 
they will keep two years if required, only they 
must be put away quite fresh, and the jars must 
be kept in a cool place.—F. M. L. 

Coltsfoot wine.— Will some reader be good enough to 
give me a recipe for making coltsfoot wine?—A n Old 
Subscriber. 


vould simply mean failure. Canaries do not 
equire egg, in fact they do a very great deal 
setter without it; a little bread sop, with or 
rithout milk, spoDge cake, soaked rape seed, 
—□d hemp seed; upon the latter I insist, and it 
s all nonsense to say that it stops the bird sing- 
ng, or causes disease of the glands; also give 
••anary seed, and green food of all kinds. Saffron 
s of ,vy use, except to colour the plumage a 
ine citron yellow. Breeding canaries should be 
illcwed to bathe t wo or three times a week.— 
W. T. Greek e, F.Z.S. 

Birds in large cage.—As “ Siskin ” has 
no< received any other reply to his query than 
*lw' t-ent by W. T. Greene, 1 beg to give him a 
little more information. In the first place I was 
very much surprised at Mr. Greene's statement, 
that one square foot cage frontage was usually 
allowed to each bird, and that a cage 2 feet 
6 inches by 1 foot 6 inches would only accommo¬ 
date two or three birds. The cages in which 
chaffinches, goldfinches, linnets See., are usually 
kept (called in the trade side cages) are only a 
few inches square, the bird having little more 
than enough room to turn round in; this fact 
alone quite upsets Mr. Greene’s argument. In 
one of my cages measuring 2 feet by 1 foot 
4 inches and 2 feet high, I have at present ten 
birds all in the best of health. If “ Siskin ” will 
pay where he intends to keep his cage, and if he 
wants English or foreign birds, I will tell him 
what kinds are most suitable.— Ornithologist. 

Insects in cages.—Will any reader Interested In 
the above subject kindly inform me whether a weak 
•elation of fir tree oil used with a spray producer would 
he effective in keeping the breeding cage free from para 
dtes, also whether it would be injurious to the birds?— 
1L Harbor we. 

Canaries breeding.—Will you kindly tell me if 
It is right to take eggs away from canaries ag they 
•ft laid. I have just started an aviary IB feet long, 3 
fwt high, 12 inches wide, in which I have three pairs of 
''Anaries. Any advice on this subject will be welcome.— 
HE5RV Thompson. 

Cramp In canaries.—Do canaries ever have the 

ramp, what are the symptoms, and the cure ?—J. J. 

Pood for larks.—Will some reader kindly inform 
ft? what is the best food for skylarj ’ ' 

It. or bow to make it ?-G " 


■KTOTICE.—Those who wish to know which j 
i-N the best varieties to grow of plants as under should 3< 


are 

__ _ shouldsend 

for our descriptive list (free), for as we only catalogue those 
that are known to be good, our customers may rely upon 
whatever they select aa sure of being satisfactory. Abutilona, 
Coleus, Dahlias. Fuchsias, Petunias, Geraniums, Ac. 

New Fuchsia, Ethel Fry, is undoubtedly the best double 
white sent out; five and six blooms at a joint, good habit. 
Is. 2d. each ; 2 for 2s.; 3 for 2s. 9d. 

New Fuchsia, Mrs, George Grote, is the best and most distinct 
light Fuchsia sent out for years; it has a long creamy-white 
wax-like tube, sepals recurved in ram’s-hom style, rich 
cherry-tinted carmine corolla. 2s each : 2 for 3s 6d. 

New Fuchsia. Cetewayo, is a bold ai d brilliant double, rich 
deep pucy purple, good habit, dark foliage, very free, 2s. 
each, two for 3s. 6d. 

New Fuchsia, Mrs. Bundle, is probably the most graceful 
Fuchria yet raised; it is a seedling irom the universal 
favourite Earl of Beaconsfield, but is much richer in colour 
Hnd has far more elegance and beauty, 2s. each ; the four 
varieties, 5s. 2cL Fuchsia Lizzie Vidfer, tho new mauve* 
coloured double, totally distinct from any other variety, 
two for Is. 2d. 

12 very select Fuchsias, including Snow Cloud, Lizzie Vidler, 
Bland's new striped, and Little Wonder (new), 3«. 2d. 

12 very select Coleus, including Pompadour, 3a. 2d. 

12 very beet fringed and Btriped double Petunias, 5*. 

12 best Abutilons. 5s.. 6 for 3e 
3 of the beat market white Marguerites, Is. 2d. 

12 best bedding Calceolaria Golden Gem, Is. 2d. 

12 Lobelias in three varieties, white, pink, and blue. Is. 2d. 

12 seedling single Dahlias from the very best strains, just 
readv to pot on, 2s.; 6 for Is. 3d. 

12 best single Geraniums, including Eureka, Jacoby, and 
Dr. Orton, 4s. 6d.; 24 best, 8s 

12 beetdouble Geraniums, including W. E. Gladstone, the 
nearest yellow, and candidisaima, best white, 4s. 6d 
Geranium Eureka (or I’ve Got It), the best white, 7cL each ; 

3 for Is. 3d. ; 12 for 4s. 6<L ; 24 for 8s. 

Geranium H. Jacoby, the deepest crimson, 7d. each ; 3 for 
Is. 3d.; 12 for 4s. 6a ; 24 for oe. 

Geranium Mrs. Parker is a silver variegated, with double 
rose-pink blooms, foliage and flowers forming a lovely con¬ 
trast, la. 2d. each. 

Variegated sweet scented Musk; this is a beautiful novelty, 
the leaves being splashed and marbled white, 7 for Is. 4d. 
Auriculas, seedlin s from a chiice collection of over 80 of 
the best named varieties, grown by an amateur of 40 
years' standing; these we fe9l sure will produce blooms 
equal, if not superior, to many named kin*..-. On. and 7s. 6d. 

S er doz.; seed saved from the same collect on, Is. 3d. and 
i. 6d. per packet. 

12 Tronaolum Fireball, 2s.; 6 for Is. 2d. 

3 Artillery Plants (Pilea muscosa), is. 2d. 

12 Verbenas in white, purple, and scarlet, Is. 2d. 

Cuttings of any of the above half-price ; all post or package 
free for cash with order.—JONES k NORTH, Hope Nur¬ 
sery, Lewisham, Kent. 


Wh6|e to ®t I four. Is. 2d. ; scarlet and whil 
• V. W. f Q Ql £'I f,ee.—HKNRV t CO, 01 


pLOWERING SHRUBS AND CLIMBERS.- 

J- Ceanothus, sheet of blue flowers, Forsytbla (yellow bells), 
Clematis montana and Vitioella, each variety, four-ls. 2d.; 
Jiuzninums nudiflorum, officinale, revolutum, Weigela 
rosea. Guelder Rose, Staphylea pinnata, each 4d. ; red Pom- 
pone Rose. 7d. ; white, 9d. each ; Crimson Clove Carnations, 
‘ white Honeysuckles, four, Is, 2d , 
Chlgwe’l Rp*v, Essex 


20,000. Palms. 20,000. 

pALMS are now sold in thousands by the 
X London florists as small plants in vases for table decora¬ 
tion. They are certain to maintain their popularity, as they 
last a long time in the impure atmosphere of rooms. 12 
distinot varieties, including Arecas, Chaimeropg, Coryphas. 
Euterpe), Latanias, Phoenix, Beafoithias, etc., by post or in 
pots, 6s. Fine plants of Corypha australis, Lat&nia bor- 
bonica, atd Phoenix reolinata, in 5-inch pots, 2a 6d., 3s. 6d , 
and 5s. each. (See catalogue, post free).—W. M. CROWE. 
Boleyn Nursery, Upton, Essex._ 

Zonal Geraniums for pot culture, s. d. 

12 splendid double varieties.4 0 

12 „ .. „ (new).6 0 

12 „ single . .. ..3 6 

12 „ ,, „ (new).6 0 

All autumn-struck plants by post or In pots. Bee catalogue, 
post free. 

W. M. CROWE, Boleyn Nursery, Upton, Essex. 

Fuchsias I Fuchsias II s. d. 

12 Best Exhibition Fuchsias, double varieties .. ..3 0 

12 ., ., .. single „ .. ..2 6 

See catalogue, post free. 

W. M. CROWE, Boleyn Nursery, Upton, Essex. 

10,000. Tuberous Begonias. 10,000 
fPHESE beautiful flowers only require sufficient 
X protection to keep them from frost, and are unrivalled 
either for greenhouse or growing outdoors. The tubers are 
now dormant and in fine condition for sending out. Good 
tubers, in mixed colours, 5s. per dozen ; very fine tubers 
(much too large for poet), in distinct colours, scarlet, rose, 
magenta, pink, white, 9s. and 12 b. dozen. These latter are 
of the finest procurable quality, and will be found eoual to 
named varieties at treble the price. (See catalogue, post 

free.) —W. M. CROWE. B oleyn Nursery, Upton. Ess ex._ 

10,000. Ferns I Ferns 11 Ferns 11 1 10,000. 

rpWELYE fine Stove and Greenhouse Ferns, 
X including Maiden-hairs, Pteris, Lomarias, Cyrtomiums, 
Doodias, Ac., good plants in pots or by post, 4s.; larger, in 
4-in. and 5-in. pots, 9 b. and 12s. dozen. Cheilanthee eleganB 
(Lace Fern), Is. Tree Ferns, Dicksonla antarctica and Also- 
phila australis, 9d. each. (See catalogue, post free.)—W. M. 
CROWE. Boleyn Nursery, Upton, Essex. 

AN OPPORTUNITY NOT TO BE LOST.- 

A Twelve best varieties of Epacris ardentissima, hya¬ 
cinths'll ora, im presea, Kinghorni. 4c., strong plants, by post, 
4a. W. M. CJrowo can now supply the above, aa he has a 
few hundreds more than he requires for growing on. These 
lovely spring-flowering plants only require cool greenhouse 
treatment, and no amateur should omit them from his col¬ 
lection. Twelve Erica ventricosa (Heaths) for present flower¬ 
ing, 18s. and 24s.—W. M. CROWE, Boleyn Nursery, Upton. 

Essex._ 

Border Carnations. 

■PWELVE fine varieties to name, including old 

X crimson (true) and white Cloves, 6s. 6d.; newer varieties, 
9s. and 12 b. per dozen. Strong plants by poet or in pots. See 
catalogue, free by post. 

W. M. CROWE, Boleyn Nurseiy, Upton, Essex. 

1Q,000 Gloxinias. 10,000. 

rj.OOD strong Tubers, started in growth from 
VT the finest procurable Strains: Gr&ndinora crassifolia, 
grandifiora penuula, erecta nana com pacta, Wills's Show, 
Erect, Drooping, Ac., 6s. per dozen ; 40s. per 100. These can 
be supplied eitner separate or mixed as above, and will be 
found fully equal to named varieties at four times the piioe. 
W. M. CROWE, Boleyn Nursery, Upton, Essex. 

Dahlias. 

TWELVE show and fancy varieties, finest 
X named sorts, 4s. and 6s. ; twelve single varieties, finest 
named sorts, 6s. and 9s. See catalogue, post free. Strong 
plants by poet or in pots. 

W. M. CROWE, Boleyn Nursery, Upton, Essex. 

4000. Azaleas, Camellias, &c. 4000 

rpWELVE splendid Azalea indica, well set 
X with flower buds, in best varieties for forcing, including 
whites, 24s. ; 30s., and 42s. dozen. Twelve splendid Camellias, 
in best varieties. 25s.. 30s.. and 42s. dozen. See Catalogue, 
free.—W. M. CROWE, Boleya Nursery, Upton. Essex. 

Winter-flowering Carnations. 
TWELVE strong plants in Bix best varieties, 
X in 64's pots, 7s. fid-doz^, 65s. per 100; in 48's, 15s. and 18s. 
dozen. See catalogue.—W. M. CROWE, Boleyn Nursery, 
Upton, Essex. __ 

Bedding plants. 

T OBELIAS Emperor William and Blue King, 
XJ the two beat. 6s. per 100; Is. 2d. per doz.; Heliotrope 
General Garfield, new 1881, Hd. each; 3s. 6d. doz.; Metem- 
bryanthemum cord, variegatum, 6s. per 1U); Is. per doz.; 
Altjmauther&s, 6s. per 100; 1 b. per doz.; Iresine Lin deni, 
78. per 100 ; Is. 3d. per doz. Strong plants by post. 

W. M. CROWE, Boieyn Nursery, Upton, Essex. 

Salvias. 

4 DISTINCT varieties (patens, splendens, 
Betbeli, and rutilana), 6d. each, or the four for Is. 6d.; 
the new white variety Mons. Is.«anchou, 9d. 

W. M. CROWE, Boleyn Nursery, Upton, Essex. 

Foliage Begonias. 

T WELVE distinct and beautiful named va 
rieties. in 3-in. pots, or by post, my selection, 6s.; six for 
3s 6dL Four grand new varieties of the dlscolor-rex section 
sent out in 1882, Is. each ; strong plants in pots or by post. 
W. M. CROWE, Boleyn Nursery, Upton, Essex. 

CJINGLE DAHLIAS.— Strong Diants for early 
O blooming ; mixed seedlings from the choicest varieties, 
2s. dozen; 3 dozen, 5s.; carefully packed in patent postal 

TUBEROUS BEGONIAS.—Very large bulbs 
J- for pots, various colours, 3 for 2s , 6s. dozen, carriage 
free - smaller bulbs suitable for bedding or pots, 2a. doz., 

WINTER BLOOMING BEGONIAS. - B. 

YY Frcebeli, scarlet, 6d. each, 5s. dozen ; B. Smith! and 
B. semperflorens rosea, 6d and la each ; Hare s New 
Begonia, a cross between the two latter, Is. 6d. and 2s. 6d. 
each, a valuable acquisition ; will bloom the whole year 
through.—All plants post or carriage free from T. H. HARE. 
Bulb and Fern Grower, Blttingbourne, Kent, _ 

1 _ -i i POST FREE.—12 splendid varieties 
AS, XU., ol flower seed, [Deluding Antirrhinum, A«tere, 
Baliuum, Curkia. C.Mopou, Convolvului, Hcilchrymim, 
Nemophili, W*lMowere, et-c Sepd »t once. Lint* tree 
ROSFYEAK BeFareh.m, Hants. 







GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[April 28, 1883. 


DANIELS’ CHOICE STRAINS 

or 

FLORISTS’ FLOWER SEEDS. 

FOR PRESENT SOWING. POBT FREE. 

We give special attention to the growth and selection of our 
choice strains of Florists' Flower Seeds, and can guarantee 
the following as of unsurpassably fine quality. 


. .'rr . 



T OBELIA EMPEROR WILLIAM IM- 

Ll PROVED.—We have worked up 10,000 of this the finest 
Lobelia in cultivation. 12 fine plants. Is.; 25, 2s.; 100, 7s.. 
post free for P.O.O. Only stock in the world. None should 
miss this gem—GEO. BO YES 4 CO., Nurserymen, Ayle- 
stone Park. Leicester. 

HUTTINGS FINE, cuttings strong.- 

^ Geraniums—Madame A. Balfcet, Lady E. Campbell, 
Mrs. Starey, Mrs. Leaver, Samuel Plimsoll. Haidee, Aurora, 
J. C. Musters, Sybil Holden, Rev. Atkinson, one of each, 
- - k 00 _ 


Per packet—s. d. 

AURICULA, ohoicest Alpine.10 

BEGONIA, Tuberous-rooted hybrid, from a splendid 

collection.. .. .. .. Is. 64 and 2 6 

CALCEOLARIA HYBRID A, superb bigred and spotted 

Is. 6d. and 2 6 

CARNATION, choicest double, from stage flowers 

Is. 64 and 2 6 

CINERARIA HYBRIDA, magnificent large-flowered 

at rain .. .. .. .. la. 6d. and 2 6 

CYCLAMEN PERSICUM GIGANTEUM, very fine.. 2 6 
CANTERBURY BELLS, Deans new hybrid single, 

splendid ... .. .. .. .. ..10 

„ „ double, rose, beautiful massive 

flowers .. .. .. .. .. ..10 

„ ,, „ choicest mixed 6d. and 1 0 

GLOXINIA HYBRIDA CRASS LFOLIA, superb 

mixed .. .. Is. 6d. and 2 6 

HOLLYHOCK. Chater’s finest double .. ..16 

M1MULUS, Daniels'large flowered, splendid .. 10 

PANSY, Daniels’ Prize blotched, very flue varieties 

la. 64 and 2 6 
„ Improved 8triped, beautiful varieties 1 6 

PIOOTEE, choicest double, from named flowers 

lb. 6<L and 2 6 

rRIMTTLA, Chiswick red. magnificent strain.. ..2 6 

„ alba magnificft, splendid fringed.. ..2 6 

„ Daniels’ choicest red .. .. ..16 

„ „ „ white .. .. ..16 

„ „ „ mixed .. Is. 6d. and 2 6 

Fem-leaved, very chohe. mixed .. .. 16 

PRIMROSE, beautiful hybrid varieties, mixed ..10 

POLYANTHU8. fine gold laced .10 

STOCK, East Lothian, scarlet, finest double .. ..10 

„ „ ,, pure white „ .. ..10 

„ „ „ mixed f » .. ..10 

Brompton Giant, scarlet .. .. .. 1 0 

,, mixed .. .■ 6d. and 1 0 

SWEET WILLIAM, magnificent strain .. 64 and 1 0 


6d. and 1 0 
64 and 1 0 


WALLFLOWER, dbie. German, splendid mixed64 and 1 0 

DANIELS BROS., 

Royal Norfolk Seed Establishment, Norwic h- 
■FERTILISING MOSS, our Speciality.—All 

1 plant growers should send for our sample box with 


J. plant growers should send for our sample nox witn 
growing plant and cultural directions, Is., post free. — 

MANAGER ,Great Frenches, Crawley Down, Suss ex. 

CPFfT AT POTATO M A NTTRF flHRYSANTHEMUMS.—Rootedcuttingsfrom 

Da J*v/IaaJj AV/l-saAV IfXXX IN U ll L« yj choice collection of all the best varieties, 2 s. aoz.. cor- 

---. , . . „ . . rectly named. Catalogue with directions for culture, 1 stamp. 

A natural Guano, combined with special condensed Potato _ w K BOYCE. 87, Yerbury Road, Holloway, London, N. 

stimulants; spree* with the experiments recently made by -- - - —-- 

the Cork Agricultural Society Prepared by a auccorefu. -aj KW FUCHSIA MRS. KUNDELL, a seed- 
Potato grower and writer on Potato culture. In bags from jj n gf rom E ar l of Beaconsfield, but far superior. It is 

7 lbs. to 2 cwt. free on rail. a f ree bloomer and vigorous grower.and a splendid variety 

Extract from ANALYST’S Retort. for winter blooming; 2s. 64 each, free.—W. K. BOYCE, 

Of several samples of our Special Potato Manure submitted 87/Verbury Ro ad, Holloway, London. __ 

f Mm: " N °' 1 “ VKBY ° OOI ‘ BEAUTIFUL CLIMBERS.—J a) lanese Honey- 

INDEED for j rp J} Buckle, handsome reticulated foliage; Balloon Vine, 

FOR PRICES APPLY, beautiful cut foliage ; Mandevilla suaveolens, handsome 

mv,Q Manarror white flower, and Clitoria ternata grand ifl ora, splendid 

me IYL£wJcLgBr, Uicao r rcllL/IlOD, blooms. The four for 2s. Packing guaranteed; carriage 

Crawley Down, Suesex._ free.—j. SYLVESTER, Idle, Bradford. ___ 

T3LANTS well established in fertilising Moss, NTICOTIANA affinia (Cannell’s Victoria), true, 
-Named FuchsiM Zonal Geranium., IN splendid while BnurardivbkefloweradcHmou. jriwentcd; 

S3SS4fiK5SSaSE 

Manage r. Great FrenchB. Crawley Down, Sui»ei. _ , REAL Garden Treasure is the Hybrid White 

dLtato? 55S- -mage paid lor csh-W, WF.ALK. Taplow, Buck,. 

Manager, Great Frenches, Crawley Down. Sussex. - VJ1OV0S I Cloves I Cloves ! 

F FERTILISING MOSS.—single Dahlias, pURPLE, White, and Crimson, per doz. (4 of 

from best named varieties, stout plants. 2s. 6 a. aoz. . £ each), 6 s. Carnations and Picotees, hardy rorts, per doz.. 
Doubles, show, fancy, and pompone, 3s. Large Tomato . d 9e . one p | aut 0 f Mrs. Sinkins to each doz. gratis.— 

plants, best golden, Is. doz. Balsams. 12 colours, large plants, ^ Taplow, Bucks._ 

l« tkl. dn,.-MAyA« Er t . Gre.t Freucheg ---- TT VBRlP WHITE CLOVE MRS. SINKINS. 

T OBELIA, stout plants, blue, mauve, ana -Six plants from open ground, 3s. • six smaller ditto, 
Jj white, 3 doz , 2e. 6 d. Antirrhinum, 12 named varieties, 2fl M p0Bfc free. Per 100, £2, delivered, for ca*>h. Single 
Is doz. PeutstemooB, seedlings from best sorts, is. doz. Dahlia seed, from best named sorts. White Queen, Ac., la. 
Seedling Tuberous Begonias, from named varieties, Is doz. packet; tuberouB Begonia, extra choice, Is. per packet,— 

Orders over Is. post free, or in hampers paid to London.— \7FAIE- ^ ,?r,r 9r '~ >n - _ _ 

Great Frenches, Crawley Down. Busses - - ATEW AND CHOICE GERANIUMS. - Beat 

'THEAP SEAKALE THONGS, carefully pre- IN varieties, selected from my splendid collection, 6 doubles 
\j pared and well calloused; alio strong plants of distinct for gg >f jo 5 * ; 6 singles, 2s. 64, 12 for 4 b. ; Bouauet Dahlias, 
coloured ViolaB and Pansies for immediate effect. — B 12 f or 3s., 25 for 5s ; single Dahlias, 4s. and bs. doz-, not 
FIELDER, Maud’s El m. Cheltenham. _[5570 pee dling 8 ; Chrysanthemums, Fuchsias, and Coleus, 2s. doz. 

OUTDOOR CUCUMBER.—The best” sort in ^oo. riyJbfeUt rS?r*fc‘-W P MAYO^fo^i! 

U cultivation is the Incomparable Riilgc, which produoeo PelTJ Barr Birmingham._ 

j52Z&T:* ^. Td” pott’free. With ffilSTBOXES.-Tin Postal Boxes, rnade speci- 
SrectmM to -0 SHU,LING, 8 <wdmnan, Wmchfield, J. ally for florists; send stumps for samples and pnccu. 
directions, go. v. pw* -TIPFETT 8 k 00„ Manufacturer*, Aaton, Birmingham. 

Hants. , v < A , > 


HUTTINGS FINE. CUTTINGS STRONG.- 

v Pelargoniums—Gladstone. Minnie, Duchess of Bedford. 
Fantasia, Duke of Albany, Digby Grand, Scarlet Gem, 
Kingston Beauty. La Patna, M< rrnion, one of each P.O.O. 
one shilling, post free.—GEORGE BOYE8 k CO., Nursery- 

m en. Aylestone Pa r k, Leiceste r.__ 

H ERANlUMkS.—Pearcon’a best, strong plants, 
vX 24 varieties 7s. 6d. ; 12, 4s., package free. Pelargoniums 
the finest stuff in England, 6s., 9s., and 12a. per doz., package 
free. These are worthy the attention of the trade — 
GEORGE BOYES & CO.. Nurserymen. Aylestone Park. 

■REST PRIMULA EXTANT-Mr W. Bull’s 

D " Premier ’’—as supplied by ua to hundreds of the 
readers of Gardening. We have no hesitation in saying 
thia is the best mixed Primula in the trade. Numerous testi¬ 
monials from nurserymen, gardeners, and amateurs. The 
colours range from pure white through the most delicate 
shades of blush and lilac to deep coccinea rea The flowers 
are large and thrown well above the foliage. Among plants 
raised from our seed last year were many curious and beau¬ 
tiful varieties of “Fancy" Primulas. We give as liberal 
packets as we possibly can at 7d, Is., and 2s. 64, poet free. 
Prize strains of Calceolaria, Gloxinia, Cineraria, and Cycla¬ 
men at 64 and Is., post free. 12 seeds semi-double Primulas, 
mixed, so useful for cutting, post free. 6d. Finest white 
Primula sinensis fimbriata, per packet of 40 seeds, 64, post 
free.—RYDER A SON, Sale, Manchester. __ 

1 O HARDY ANNUALS in 12 pretty illustrated 

X.XJ packets and one packet of Mignonette gratis, post free 
for Is.; 6 varieties Ornamental Grasses, so fine for gardens, 
post free for 1s. ; five packets of five kinds of Mignonette, In¬ 
cluding the white and Spiral, post free for 9d. All the seed is 
new and fresh and can be relied on.—RYDER A SON, Sale. 
Manchester. _ 

VARIEGATED FUCHSIAS. — 6 cuttings, 

V named sorts, very choice, for 104 ; 24 Fuchsias, the 
grand show varieties double and single, cuttings for Is 9d.: 
12 double Petunias, cuttings, choice varieties, for Is. 3d. All 
carefully packed and post free. Now is a capital time for 
striking cuttings.—RYDER A SON, Sale, Manchester. 

Cheap Dahlias, Double and Slngrl©- 
T’HE fine large thow, fancy and pompone kinds, 
-L nicely rooted, sturdy plants, excellent named soits > in 
great variety. Note.—These are the well-known double varieties, 
12 choice kinds for 3s. 6d.. poet free. SINGLE DAHLIAS 
from the finest strains in the kingdom, established plants 
from pots. As these were potted a month ago they will make 
very fine plantB by bedding-out time, per doz., 2s. 6d.; per 100, 
18s., post free. 5s. value or upwards sent in separate pots, if 
desired packed in small h*mper (customer to pay carriage).— 
RY DER k SON, Sale, Manch ester.__ 

6 BRONZE GERANIUMS, in six superb named 
varieties, rooted last August, free, for 3a.; 12 We-t 
Brighton Gem, an excellent free flowering dwarf bedding 
Geranium, for 3s. ; Geraniums Happy Thought and Dis¬ 
tinction, very stout planti, at 34 each. All above are we’l 
rooted and post free. 6 scented Geranium cuttings, in six 
rinds, for Is—RYDER A SON, Sale, Ma nchester._ 

G REVILLEA ROBUSTA, nice sturdy plants, 

CT nine month* old, will make plants fit for table directly, 

S er pair, Is- post free ; the old-fashioned Pedlar’s Basket or 
[other of Thousands (Saxifragasarmentosa), per pair, 9d., 
free: Sibthorpia europiea, a very easily grown greenhouse 
plant, each, 64, free. These two are the beit plants for 
greenhouse.basket Rooted cuttings of the basket Fuobsia 
procumbens. at €4 each, all carefully packed and post free.— 
RYDER k SON. Bale, Manchester._ 


GERA NIUMS 00.000 Dozen. GERANIUM5 W.OOO 
GERANIUMS 00,000 Dozen. 

A CHOICE Selection of Geraniums, Calceolaria, 

AA. Fuchsias, Ageraturns. Petunias, Coleus, and all the lead¬ 
ing kind* of plants for carpet bedding, fcc. Rooted cutto^i at 
8s. per 100 ; large plants. 

G. D. BLAGROVE, 

BLAOKHEATH NURSERIES, UPPER ST. JOH2TS 
PARK, BLACKHEATH. 


New Seeds—Harvest 1882. 

T L. WATSON’S HALF-CROWN COD 
u . LECTION of VEGETABLE SEEDS contains j co. 
White Lisbon Onion (for early use), f oz. Deptford Oman, 
i oz. Brussels Hprouts, } oz. Higham Cabbage, i oz. targe 
Cream Cauliflower, } oz. Sprouting Broccoli, i oz Shorthorn 
Carrot 1 oz Hollow Crown Parsnip, $ oz Drumhead Savoj. 

L oz. .Snowball Turnip, l oz. White Cos Lettuce, i oz. Cabbage 
ettuce, | oz. French Breakfast Radish, 1 packet each of 
Curled Parsley, Vegetable Marrow (3 sorts mixed). Wood's 
Ridge Cucumber, Pumpkin, Red Cabbage, Fulham Beet. 
Endive, snd Red Italian Tomato. Special offer, not subject 
to alteration. Free postal order 2s. 6d.—Manor Road Nur¬ 
sery, Gravesend 

T L. WATSON S SHILLING COLLECTIONS. 

U • —20 varieties of Flower Seeds, Is.; 14 varieties of Flora 
Seeds. Is. ; 14 varieties of Vegetable Seeds, la ; with eniturxl 
directions. Dost free, 13 stamps. An extra packet is included 
to repay stamp in ordering. 

SEEDS IN PENNY PACKETS. 

List and sample packet free on application. Any 13 varie¬ 
ties post free, from J. L. WATSON, Manor Road Norwrj, 


FERNS 


SPECIALITY. 


Exotic and British Terns and Selaginellas. 

Suitable for KTOVE and GREENHOUSE cnltiration. far 
OUTDOOR FERNERIES, and other purposes in inuctr* 
number and variety. Our ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, i 
(price 64) contains much useful infoimation as wd! as 
•‘Hints on Fern Culture.” SPECIAL LISTS issued at inter 
vals during the year, giving extremely low quotations, as? 
be had FREE on application. 

W. & J. BIRKENHEAD, Fern Nursery! 
Sale, Manchester. 


W. ZE3I- SMITH 

(Late of Framingham) 

HFFERS the following at prices annexed in ' 
v strong plants. All orders will be safely packed in strew I 
boxes with Moss for cash with order, P.O.O. payable at. sl I 
Faith's. Fuchsias,'Trumpeter 3d., Miss Lizzie Viddler 44. | 
procumbens 3d., Baby Fuchsia 34, Beauty of Swauley 31, , 
Mrs. H. Oannell 34, Memphis 34, Grand Duchess Marie Si. 
12 grand sorts 2s. Coleus, beautiful varieties, Pompadocx. 
Illuminator, President Hardy, Mre. J. J. Colin an 3a eacL 
6 for Is, 3d., 12 for 2s. Geraniums, 6 selected 2s , 12ecvi* 
Vesuvius 2s., 12 mixed Is. 64 Single Dahlias, extra *tros{ 

S lants to make a blaze of flower* until frost. 6 for 2a, 12 to 
j. 64 Artillery plant 2d., Sedums 2d., Heliotrope 24. 
Begonia 44, Cockscomb (nice early plants) 34, Sains 
patens 6d., scarlet do. 3d., scented Verbena 34, Acaca 
lophantha 3d., Sensitive plant 3d. (very curious and interest¬ 
ing), Pans Daisy 34, S -lanum 34. Veronica 34. Petunia 
(double) 44. Golden Feather Is. 2d 100. Ageratnm (dwarf) 


3. 6HJLLING, Soedi 

Goog 


12 Ageratum, 12 splendid Coleus 12 Heliotrope, 12r«uniiS, 

12 Munulus. 50 Lobelia, 50 Golden Feather, 6 single Dahlias. 
W. H. SMITH, St. Faiths, No r wich. 

WILLIAMS’ 

CHOICE FLOWER SEEDS 

FOR 1883. PO«T FREE. 

Per packet —a 4 

Asters, best varieties .. ., «. l I 

Balsam, Williams’superb strain ..10 

Pansy, Belgian varieties. ..16 

Pansy, Show varieties.II 

Petunia, flneBt striped.14 

Phlox Drummondi, mixed . ..01 

Stocks, finest varieties.HI 

Zinnia elegans ..04 

Illustrated Catalogue post fre* o?i application. 

B. S. "WIBLX_AJVrS, 

VICTORIA A PARADI8E NURSERIE8, UPPER HOL 
LOWAY, LONDON. N. 

pOLEUS ! COLEUS of 1882 !-Carter’s splendid 
yj new Coleus Ada Sentance, Miss Simpson, Edith Sentence, 
Mrs. 8teddall, Mrs. Vaughan. Mrs. John Pawle—the set of six 
for 2s., carefully packed, post free. Four first-class certifi¬ 
cates R.H.S. These are the best set yet sent out.—J. BLAKE- 
MORE, 8t. George's, Wellington, Salop. 

"KTEW FUCHSIAS of ]1882.—Edelweiss, best 

ll double white, and Nelly Morton, the two for Is. ; Alfred 
DumesniL Marquise de Yivens, M. Oscar, Roocx, General 
Logerot, Milne Edwards, Phenomenal, six superb vara. 2a, 
all well rooted, packed in boxes, post free.—J. BLAKE- 
MORE, St. George’s, Wellin gton, Salop ._ 

■(TEVV ZONAL GERANIUMS of 1352. 

IN Lemoine’s. Pearson’s, and Cannell’s, six single rare., 
including Berthelot, M. Chevreul, Godefroy Cavaignac. vtc.. 
2s. 9d ; six splendid double vars, including Lord Mayor, 
General Billot. M. Hardy, Flooon de Neige, or La Jeannette, 
2s. 94 ; double flowered Ivy-leaved, ]M. Barral, M Pasteur. 
(Jomte Horace de ^hoiseul, Eurydice, these four superb 
vara , 2s. All the above in good plants, packed in boxes and 
Moss, post free Cuttings of zonal Geraniums from a 
splendid collection, double and single, best kinds only. Is. 64 
p^rdozen, free.—J. BLAKEMORE, St. Georgia, nelling- 

ton, Salop. ___ 

Leyton, Essex.—Within a few minutes' walk of the Forest 
and Hoe Street Railway Station. 

rpo BE SOLD.—Dwelling House of pretty eleva- 

-L tion, containing 10 rooms, including bath-room: long 
lease; ground rent £8 per annum; land 25 feet frontage, 
depth 185 feet. Price £500. Mortgage arrange4—Apply, ME. 
E J, DAVIS, Broomhiil, Vicarage Road, Lertcn. 



















GARDENING ILLUSTEATED 


You Y. MAY 5, 1883. No. 217. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 
{Continued from page 92.) 


Arranging the Spring Garden. 

Many of the most beautiful spring flowers do 
not seem to associate well with formal beds in a 
formal garden. One of the best arrangements 
of spring flowers I know of is at Belvoir Castle. 
In their grouping Mr. Ingram lias been very happy 
in taking advantage of the positions Nature has 
there so lavishly placed at his disposal—a magnifi¬ 
cent extent of surface, embracing every aspect at 
varying elevations. Wood-crowned hill and 
shelving sunny banks, with open glades sheltered 
from the fierce currents which in March devas¬ 
tate the tender foliage and budding flowers. In 
such positions groups and borders of all the tints 
of spring can be formed in the most effective 
manner both for contrast and for harmony. The 
bright early flowers of the year, the Aconites, can 
have a sheltered shelving bank (what a sight a 
broad mass is when in blossom !) I know seve¬ 
ral places where they are largely grown, and in 
January are one of the sights of the neighbour¬ 
hood. And all this gorgeous beauty can be 
enjoyed for a small expense. All we want is a 
dr) - bank, not too densely overgrown. Dibble the 
bulbs in thickly, and leave them for ever undis¬ 
turbed. The various forms of the Wood Anemone, 
planted where they can stand some time and 
form broad irregular shaped masses, are very 
effective. 

The Primrose is more at home in a semi-wild 
condition than when planted in the beds or bor¬ 
ders. How beautiful Snowdrops and Lent Lilies 
(Daffodils) are when springing out of the ground 
in great clusters in Borne grassy nook against a 
background of shrubs. Honesty (Lunaria 
biennis) is most effective in a scattered kind of 
group on one of the elevations in undulating 
ground where one can meet it unawares on 
turning a comer. The Lily of the Valley could 
be used in the same way, only in its native home 
it thrives best under a thin shade amid decaying 
leaves and vegetable matter, which are probably 
the accumulations of centuries. There are, of 
course, many spring flowers which will come 
into the beds and borders properly so called, 
but how interesting it will be if, in designing 
the spring gardens, we can arrange amid 
the shrub and tree-growth forming its margin in¬ 
formal groups of the plants I have named, and 
others which a little study will bring to light. 
Can anything be more beautiful than onr hardy 
native heath Erica carnea 1 In sandy soil it will 
spread out into a broad mass that is exceedingly 
effective. The Wallflowers require but little 
cate in their culture. But it must be borne in 
mind that before anything which is expected to 
have any degree of permanence is planted, the 
ground should be well prepared, for even our 
native plants pay in increased beauty for good 
treatment. Besides these permanent features 
to which I have briefly adverted, there are spring 
flowering trees and shrubs in great variety— the 
Almonds and Cherries, for instance; the latter 
bearing, in some cases, double flowers, are 
beautiful in spring. Then there are the Bar¬ 
berries in variety, whilst the Lilacs, Flower¬ 
ing Currants (Kibes), the Forsythia, Kerrya 
japonica, the Golden Chain (Laburnums), and 
the Thoms, which herald in the summer, are 
nnapproached by anything which comes after. 

Among other families of plants which require 
more attention, and are well adapted for plant¬ 
ing in the borders anywhere, may be named the 
Alyssums, Arabia, Crocus, Cyclamen, Corydalis, 
Doronicum, Erythronium (Dog's-tooth Violet), 
Dicentra (Fumitory), Gentians, Iris reticulata, 
and others. Iberis (perennial Candytufts) are 
very showy in spring in any position. I saw tho 
other day a great spreading mass of Iberis 
conesefolia growing on a mound, which was quite 
the feature of the place. The Hepaticas are a 
very beautiful family, not nearly so much cared 
for as they deserve. Somewhat frequent division 
suits them best. The Alpines, Phloxes, the 
Scillae, the Forget-me-nots, the Tulips, and 
Fritillarias, with the Narcissi, would alone, if 
only a fraction of the variety they yielded be 
gathered up, make a most *ay and inter sting 


garden, and I have only glanced at the real 
wealth which the spring offers. The Tansies or 
Violas are a host in themselves. It is rather diffi¬ 
cult to tell where the Pansy ends and the Violet 
begins, but one can hardly go astray in planting 
a good selection of both. These, too, are adapted 
for filling formal beds in the parterre, where 
such exist, their propagation is so easy and 
inexpensive, cuttings root freely in a shady border 
at almost any season of the year, and the roots 
can be divided in spring or autumn. Seeds also 
are produced freely, and Boon germinate in 
moist, sandy soil. We have a border planted 
with Pansies, where they are always in flower. 
They scatter their seeds, and young plants spring 
up in great numbers. Rather a moist situation 
suits Pansies best, though if the land is deeply 
cultivated and plenty of manure buried for the 
roets to find when the hot weather comes. 
Pansies will grow anywhere. Top-dressings or 
mulchings are of great value, and if the long, 
straggling shoots are pegged down, new roots 
are formed and the plants are rejuvenated in 
appearance. 

The white, pink, and scarlet Daisies are in¬ 
dispensable for spring, and some of the newer 
varieties have large flowers on long stalks, which 
may be gathered for the room. In small glasses, 
mixed with suitable foliage, they have a pleasing 
effect, and for filling beds in association with 
other low-growing plants Daisies have but few 
rivals. A large stock may Boon be obtained by 
division of the roots; the tiniest offset will break 
away with a bit of root attached, and quickly 
make an independent flowering plant. Division 
may take place either in spring or autumn. 

Annuals sown in August and transplanted 
in October or November will do much to brighten 
the garden in spring. Many of the annuals 
usually sown in spring will succeed better if 
sown in August; indeed, August is the natural 
month for seed sowing. It is then they ripen 
and fall to the ground. None of the plants raised 
in spring have the vigour and hardihood of 
those raised in autumn. Sow thinly on rather 
sandy land, and in transplanting leave plenty 
of space between, according to the species or 
variety. Then in spring, besides the soft tints 
of opening blossoms and the delicate green of 
expanding leafage, there are many coloured- 
foliaged plants adapted for the spring garden 
whose colours for the first month or two of 
spring, before the sun gains its full power, 
possess a purity and brightness which are 
unknown later in the season. The variegated 
Arabis, the Golden-leaved Thyme, the Golden 
Laminm, the Golden Balm, and other plants 
with golden or variegated foliage, lose their 
colour when spring merges into summer. 

The Reserve Garden. 

In small places this need not occupy much 
space, as a border in the kitchen garden will 
serve to raise seedlings and strike cuttings. It 
is always desirable to have a plot of ground set 
apart as a kind of nursery to sow such things 
as Wallflowers, Anemones, Delphiniums, Fox¬ 
gloves, and dozens of other plants that it will 
be desirable to have young plants of In the course 
of preparation. Many choice hardy plants may 
be raised from seeds, and though it may perhaps 
be better to sow the seeds of any choice things 
in pans in a frame, yet as soon as they will 
bear handling, a bed in the reserve garden till 
they gather strength to group in the border, 
will be the best place for them. Cuttings that 
have been rooted under the hand-lights or 
frames may be allowed a time to get up strength. 

1 New things brought in from the nursery, which, 
as a rule, are small and often delicate when 
they arrive, should have their proper bed to 
recruit their health for a season, where they 
will be under the eye, and not lost amid the 
crowd in the border. The experimentalist will 
require a reserve garden for many things. The 
choice seedlings of bulbs will there find a suit¬ 
able home. Cuttings of choice trees or shrubs 
can be grown on till they are strong enough to 
plant out finally. The most convenient form 
for a reserve garden will be a square or oblong, 
and it should be laid out in parallel beds 5 feet 


or so wide, so that the little plants can be con¬ 
veniently hoed amongst and cleaned. The alleys 
or paths between need not be more than 18 inches 
wide, just giving sufficient space to walk between 
and attend to the wants of the plants. Such 
beds need never be idle, as, if not required for 
growing on young stock, they can be planted 
with Pinks, Carnations, I’entstemons, Phloxes, 
Pyrethrums, kc., to produce flowers for cutting. 

In short, such a garden will always possess an 
interest of its own to any person who really 
loves flowers for their own sakes. One of the 
purposes of the reserve garden will be to receive 
the plants that have done their work in the 
spring garden. There the Daisies can be 
planted after division, the Aubrietias, Arabis, 
and Forget-me-nots can be pulled to pieces and 
started again on a new career. 

Hardy Bulbs. 

The culture of hardy bulbs and rliizomotous 
plants is one of the most interesting phases of 
gardening. There is such an endless variety, 
and the colours of the flowers are unsurpassed 
for beauty and magnificence. In the Lily, the 
Tulip, and the Iris will be found unrivalled ex¬ 
amples of gorgeous colouring, that no painter's 
brush can approach for effectiveness. Many 
who take up gardening as a hobby concentrate 
their labour and attention upon one family. 
Some select the Rose, others the Carnation or 
the Tulip, or Ranunculus. The Dahlia, the 
Hollyhock, and the Chrysanthemum all come in 
for their share of admiration, and have their 
votaries. But the garden of bulbs is better cal¬ 
culated to awaken interest of an absorbing 
character than most of the other families I have 
named, the Rose alone excepted. Concen¬ 
tration is, doubtless, the right course to adopt in al 1 
things where superiority is aimed at. To fritter 
away time upon many things leads to mediocrity 
in all. Besides, there is not the same love 
springing up in the heart for things we only 
casually see, and whose life history or culture 
we only imperfectly understand. In bulb cul¬ 
ture we have an endless round of flowers. In 
the beginning of the year the Aconites, the 
Snowdrops, the Cyclamens, and Anemones can be 
gathered amid the snow. Then comes the 
Crocus, the Narcissus, and Tulip, with still 
brighter and bolder masses of [colour ; the 
heavily scented Hyacinth, the lowly but lovely 
Scilla ; and then, as the days lengthen and the 
sun gathers up his forces, the Lilies burst out in 
all their stateliness and grandeur. With the 
approach of -autumn comes the Gladiolus and 
Colchicums, finishing off amid the snows of 
winter again with the beautiful Stembergia 
lutea. Besides these I have named, there are 
other families less well known but not less 
beautiful, which spread their flowering time 
over many months—the beautiful little Chio- 
nodoxa lucilm, in spring, the Alliums, Brodia*as, 
the Fritillarias, the Alstrccmerias, and others 
which will be referred to in a list at the end of 
this article. A garden where bulbs form the chief 
feature cannot be surpassed in beauty and 
variety, but even such a garden should have 
other furniture, as a picture, however beautiful 
it may be, is not complete without a frame. The 
effect of the most beautiful flowers is enhanced 
by a foil of contrasting materials. Tills being 
granted, as I think it will be, the question arises 
in what way can we best arrange our bulb 
garden so as to make the place suitable for their 
growth, and at the same time bring out all their 
beauties / Nearly all tho bulbs require shelter ; 
for the most part their Sowers are delicate and 
fragile, and often, as in the Lily, their heads of 
blossom are too heavy for ibeir stems to bear 
withont. support, and if the winds catch hold of 
their broad, massive petals, it disfigures them 
sadly. A bed of Lilies exposed to the full force 
of the wind will seldom be in a presentable con¬ 
dition, but plant amid a sheltering bed of 
shrubs, and the winds pass them by harmlessly. 
The bulb garden should have its main features 
outlined with trees and shrubs, and in their 
arrangement groups of the smaller flowering 
shrubs should advance in a scattered or skir¬ 
mishing order to the centre of the garden. 
Rhododendrons and Azaleas make good nurses 






104 


GARDENING illustrated 


[Mat 5, 1FP3. 


for Lilies. Open beds in sheltered sites could be 
prepared for the Gladiolus, the Iris, and the 
Tulip. Crocuses and Snowdrops might spring from 
a base of creeping growth. Those things that 
dislike removal, such as the Alstroemarias and 
Crown Imperials, could have their wants cared 
for. A man with but little leisure may find more 
pleasure in a garden like the one I have feebly 
attempted to describe than in any other, and one 
of the advantages of it is, it can be any size we 
like—it may be half an acre or more, or only a 
rod or two in extent. There will be alwayB some¬ 
thing to expect, something to watch for, and this 
feeling of expectation, this anticipation of the 
visit of old friends, forms a charm of a most 
interesting kind. The ground must be well pre¬ 
pared by deep culture, and should be well 
drained. The best result will be obtained in a 
sandy loam, adding leaf-mould or peat to meet 
special wants. The different families can be 
grouped together in irregular masses, occasionally 
broad patches of some low growing plant, such as 
Alpine Phloxes, perennial Candytufts, Pinks, ,Vc., 
may intervene, as a garden full of bulbs (of 
Lilies, for instance) would at times be too over¬ 
powering without some other plants to tone it 
down. In a well-drained, sandy loam most of 
the bulb families will keep better in the ground. 
When they become too crowded they must be 
taken up and divided ; but with few exceptions 
they may be replanted again immediately. 

All Lilies, for instance, lose strength if kept 
long out of the ground. Florists’ Tulips, or any 
other named bulb, such as the Gladiolus, should 
be taken up to have the beds prepared and re¬ 
made, and to secure the young spawn. But for 
the greater part, of the bulbs grown in the beds 
and borders annual disturbance is an evil which 
should be avoided as much as possible. Cocoa 
fibre is an excellent mulching for beds or 
patches of choice bulbs, and as it decays it 
amalgamates with the soil and improves its 
character. In planting anything of a new or 
rare character, place a spadeful of compost 
round the roots. It is always a good plan 
to keep a heap of rich, light, sandy soil 
laid by in a corner for this purpose. Little 
thoughtful acts of this kind often make the dif¬ 
ference between success and failure. It often 
happens that a plant arrives from a journey in a 
weakened, exhausted condition, and if planted 
carelessly, or even with ordinary care, in the 
natural soil, it might die; when, if placed amid 
nice, dry, sweet, healthy compost, it revives at 
once, and a good start is half the battle. 

List of hardy bulbil. —Acis (Leucojum) autum- 
nalis, Allium azureum, A. fragrans, A. ciliatum, 

A. Holy, Amaryllis Belladonna, Brodima coccinea, 

B. grandiflora, Bulbocodium vernum, Calliprora 
lutea, Colchicum (Meadow Saffron or Autumn 
Crocus) All these kinds are very beautiful, both 
single and double. They are most effective when 
coming through some thinly growing plant—a 
Sedum, say, for instance. Crinum capense, Cro- 
cosmia aurea, Crocus—many kinds besides those 
usually imported from Holland, should be col¬ 
lected together in such a garden. The Lady's- 
slipper plant, from North America, Cypri- 
pedium spectabile and guttatnm, not forgetting 
our own native species, C. Calceolus. The 
Slipper plants should be planted in peat in 
a cool, partially shaded bed or border. Just 
within the edge of a bed of Rhododendrons 
would suit them. Epipactis palustris, Erythro- 
nium americanum, E. Dens-canis (Dog’s-tooth 
Violet) are very pretty, both foliage and flowers; 
plant in peat, or sandy loam and leaf-mould. Fri- 
tillaria imperialis (Crown imperial), F. Meleagris, 
and others; Galanthus nivalis (Snowdrops), G. 
plicatus (Crimean Snowdrop), Gladioli—may be 
had in great variety, the early flowering kinds 
beginning to blossom in May, and the late 
(Brenchleyensis) finishing off the season in Sep¬ 
tember, or later if not planted too early. I had 
a bed of Brenchleyensis in good condition last 
October planted in May. Hyacinthus amethy- 
stinus, H. orientalis, H. candicans. The Grape 
and Musk Hyacinths should be included, and as 
many of the imported Dutch varieties as means 
and space will allow. Under careful manage¬ 
ment, planting in well prepared beds, very good 
spikes can be obtained from English grown 
bulbs. Narcissi in many kinds, including N. 
bicolor, bulbocodium, Jonquilla maximus, junci- 
folius minor, poeticus, odorus, and triandrus; 
Ophrys apifera, and O. scolopax— plant in peat 
and loam mixed with crushed limestone. Or¬ 
chis foliosa, 0. latifolia, 0. maculata, 0. nigra. 

Digitizes by GOOgle 


0. papilionacea—the two last named genera are 
Orchidaceous plants, ancl should be planted in 
alight shade. The Orchis family delight in 
moisture. A bed of moist peat will grow them 
well. Ornithogalum montanum, O. umbel latum 
(Star of Bethlehem), O. nutans, O. pyramidale, 
Pancratium illyricum, Scilla amcena, S. bifolia, 

S. campanulata, S. nutans, S. siberica, S. peru¬ 
viana. The Scillas are most beautiful dwarf 
spring flowering bulbs, and should be planted 3 in. 
deep in light sandy soil. A mixture of leaf- 
mould and road-scrapings is a great help 
where the soil is heavy for these and many other 
kinds of bulbs. Sternbergia lutea, Tigridia 
pavonia, Trillium grandiflorum (Wood Lily) in 
shaded situations. Triteleia uniliora, Tulipa 
sylvest.ris, T. viridiflora, T. turcica, T. cornuta, 

T. Clusiaua, T. Gesneriana, Tris cristata, I. Haves- 

cens, I. florentina, I. germanica, 1. iberica, I. 
graminea, I. pallida, I. reticulata, I. Susiana, T. 
sambucina, Lilium candidum, L. auratum, L. 
bulbiferum, L. canadense, L. chalcedonicum, L. 
croceum, L. eximiun», L. japonicum, L. specio- 
sum, L. longiflorum, L. tenuifolium, L. tigrinum, 
L. venustum, L. Washingtonian urn. Though 
this list lias grown to larger proportions than 1 
intended, yet it is very imjierfect, in so far as 
many good things arc omitted. The truth is, 
the bulbaceous plants are now in such immense 
numbers, a life's study is required to become 
thoroughly acquainted with them all, and who¬ 
ever has a good soil, with themeans of improving 
it where needful, and plenty of leisure, I 
know of no more pleasant subject to be taken 
up as a hobby than the culture of plants having 
bulbous roots. E. Hobday. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


Rochea faloata.— This is one of the good 
old plants that needs looking up for autumn 
decoration. In growth it is very much like a 
Crassula, and similar treatment will doubtless 
suit both. I came across some beautiful plants 



Rochea falcata. 


of it last autumn growing in a house that 
answered for conservatory, vinery, and plant 
house combined. Their orange scarlet colour is 
very effective. I procured a few pieces, and 
mean to give them a fair chance of doing well, 
for although an old friend nearly forgotten, it is 
quite as worthy of a place as some of the new 
and rare introductions of modern days.- J. G. 

ClianthuB puniceus.— There are very few 
climbing plants so attractive at this season of 
the year as Clianthus puniceus, or Glory Pea, of 
New Zealand. I recommend all who have a 
greenhouse to give it a trial, as it is very suitable 
for covering the back walls or the roof, and being 
evergreen it looks well in or out of flower. We 
have it now in full flower, of a rich crimson 
colour like bunches of parrots’ beaks, planted 
inside a late peach house, where frost is excluded, 
and gets nothing done to it except a little training 
and watering occasionally. The present is a very 
good time for inserting cuttings in light sandy 
soil on a gentle hotbed, and if well grown on 
they will flower next spring. I find the less the 
knife is used the better, but at the same time it 
must be kept within bounds. I may also add that 
its worst enemy is red spider, which may, bowe\er, 
he easily kept under by frequent syringing on 
fine days.— C. C. S. 


Solomon’s Seal In the greenhouse — 

Amongst the numerous hardy plants now grown 
for forcing Solomon’s Seal is one of the best, a> 
not only does it respond readily to heat and 
grow quickly, but when placed in a cool house, 
it lasts a long time in beauty. In a cot state, 
too, it i9 unrivalled. The proper way to manage 
Solomons Seal to have strong roots for forcing 
is to plant them out in prepared or deeply dnv 
Boil in some open, sunny spot in the garden. If 
this is done, the plants spread rapidly, and may 
be dug up every autumn after the tops die dowi.. 
when the strongest pieces can be easily selected 
for potting and the weaker laid aside to make a 
fresh bed. This is our practice annually, ami 
we always have a good stock for the winter ami 
spring, from which we draw a pot or two at n 
time as they may be required for forcing. When 
done with in the spring, if not wanted to aug. 
ment. the supply by addinglo the beds, they aie 
planted out in the foregiound of shmbbeiies, or 
in the wild garden, where in early summer they 
are always welcome, and look quite at home, 
especially on banks or raised mounds amongst 
Ferns, with which they associate well.— S. D. 

Cobeea scan dene variegata — A 

climber that many fail in propagating is the 
variegated Cobrca scandens, owing, oftentimes 
to the strong shoots being used as cuttings. For 
this purpose choose small, weak shoots whenever 
possible, and make them like ordinary cuttings. If 
such cannot be obtained, then take the weaken 
of the climbing branches and cut them into 
single eyes, leaving at the same time 2 inches 
of stem attached to the base of each ; insert 
them so that the bud is just clear of the soil 
give a good watering, and keep them close 
Being liable to damp, the pots used should be 
small, putting only about three or four cutting* • 
in a pot, as in this way they are less liable to 
decay than when crowded together in quant i- | 
ties. Damp being the great enemy to guard 
against, give a little air whenever there are any 
signs of its appearance.—T. 

Primula seed. —Chinese Primroses are nov 
increasing at the rate of some half-dozen kind? 
every year, and they bid fair to increase far 
more rapidly presently. Were they plants that, 
like Pelargoniums, could be propagated easily 
by means of cuttings, the increase of kin<L 
would not matter; but every fresh kind of the 
Chinese Primrose meafes another trouble added 
to seed purchasers, not one in the hundred of 
whom wants packets of twenty kinds, as are 
sometimes advertised, but rather a good mixed 
packet of seed that includes a dozen well con¬ 
trasted sorts. I am disposed to think if seeds¬ 
men would offer mixed packets of seed that 
would produce all their best kinds at moderate 
prices they would sell far more and give much 
more satisfaction than by offering so many 
varieties.—A. 

Boronla elatior.— This is such a profuse¬ 
flowering subject, and so easily managed, as to 
make it deserving of general use wherever a 
greenhouse or conservatory exists. It will last 
m flower for over two months, and from its 
graceful habit of growth it is a pretty object 
even when not in bloom. As soon as the plants 
have done flowering they should be slightly cut 
over, shortening the last season’s shoots about 
one-third their length; if this is done the plant> 
will keep for years without gettirg straggliig 
or too large for ordinary' purposes. 

Snowflake stock.— This is the name of a 
new biennial Stock sent to us by Messrs. Collins 
& Gabriel. It is said to be a hybrid, the result 
of a cross between the Intermediate Stock and 
the East Lothian. Its flowers are large and 
double, and of the purest white, and are not so 
thickly set up the stems as to give them a lumpy 
appearance. Every one having a cool greenhouse 
or frame should grow these Stocks, for they are 
valuable alike for the decoration of the garden, 
greenhouse, and dwelling room. The seed should 
be sown in August, in well drained pans of loamy 
soil. When large enough the plants may be I 
potted into 6-inch pots, using sandy loam. Keep 
in a cool airy house or frame till they show signs 
of flowering, and then give them some artificial 
manure to assist them. If for garden decoration 
a number of plants may be potted in L\j-inch or 
3-inch pots, and after being well hardened can 
be planted out in March, and they will flower in 
May and June. The scarlet Intermediate Stock 
1 is amenable to the same treatment. 


May 5. 1883 ] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


10.i 


Odontogloesum Boezli album— This 
is certainly one of the most chaste and lovely 
«ircbids in cultivation, and should be included 
in every collection, however small, the size of 
the flowers and their purity rendering a woll- 
thjwered specimen a very conspicuous object.— 
J. C-, By fleet. 


COOL ORCHIDS. 


in Winter. Geraniums like a dry, buoyant 
atmosphere, which is obtained by warming the 
house early in the day, opening the top ventila¬ 
tors for a few hours, closing early in the after¬ 
noon, and letting the fire out. At the same 
time rigid cleanliness should be practised, every 
yellow leaf and symptom of decay must be re¬ 
removed as it forms, and but little water should 
be given in winter.—J. C., By fleet. 


The successful culture of these in a great 
measure depends upon the atmospheric con¬ 
ditions maintained in the structure wherein they 
grow. It is useless to attempt to grow them 
u nder the same conditions as suit ordinary cool 
greenhouse plants, the amount of dry air re¬ 
quired to keep such things as Geraniums, 
Petunias, Camellias, Azaleas, &c. in health, being, 
if not fatal, at any rate so far inimical as to 
hinder them making good growth. All know 
that Ferns have an atmosphere strongly impreg¬ 
nated with moisture, and 1 can give no better 
indication of the requirements of cool Orchids 
than in saying that the two families succeed 
well together. During the winter they do not 
need much fire heat, merely raising the tem¬ 
perature during periods of frosty or damp cold 
weather to about 60° by day, dropping to 45° by 
night. Dry heat, and currents of air are fatal to 
them, and must be guarded against, and in vert- 
hot. weather the temperature must be kept down 
bv shading and frequent damping of the paths 
and stages, and syringing morning and evening. 

If the plants are not established, but recently 
imported, the best way to treat them is to lay 
them on some 3 or 4 inches of clean crocks, 
keeping the same moist In the course of the 
summer they will, if sound, emit roots, and 
mav then be potted. As Orchids very much 
dislike overpotting, the pots should be only 
j u st large enough to give them a fair hold of 
t he compost. Kill them two-thirds full of crocks, 
takiDg care that both drainage and pots are 
quite clean. The most suitable compost is Sphag¬ 
num Moss one half, the remaining half to con¬ 
sist of fibrous peat, in lumps, and crushed 
charcoal, in pieces about the size of a nut. Press 
the compost in firmly, and fix the plants in place 
by means of sticks. In watering, the great point 
is to keep the soil moist without deluging the 
soil, giving free supplies when the plants ate 
making their growth, but only just enough in 
winter to keep them fresh and plump, but never 
allowing them to become quite dry, as at that 
time they are forming their flower spikes, and 
a too short supply of water would cause these 
to come weakly, and the flowers small and 
malformed. The hetterplanis to buy established 
plants, which are in every way easier to manage, 
and will bloom next winter. Some of the very 
hast kinds are Odontoglossum crispum and cirr- 
|io-nm, Masdevallia ignea, Harryana and Lindeni, 
Lvcaste Skinneri, Laelia majalis, Cypripedium 
m’signe, and Zygopetalum Mackayi. 

J. Cobnhii.l. 


9H08. — Geraniums and Boses. — 

- Presto ” in putting this query does not state 
whether, though his greenhouse is heated with 
liot-water pipes, there be a regular warm tem¬ 
perature maintained, and if so, how high it is. 
To induce Geraniums to bloom well, the tem- 
jierature should range from 50° to 60®. All 
Geraniums are truly warm weather plants, and 
will endure heat well. If the house has not 
really been heated, the falling of the blooms is 
explained. If it is heated, then perhaps the soil 
or water is at fault. Bad soil, and hard and 
perhaps cold water, means weak, sickly roots, 
and because of that the blooms would be im¬ 
perfect. Again, the plants may be over potted, 
and the soil become sour and waterlogged. If 
such is tho case it will be well to shake the 
plants clean out of the soil and repot into 
smaller ones, and in nice, fresh sweet loam, 
i adding a little sand and well rotted manure. As 
; t„ Marv -hal Niel Rose, if the shoots 10 feet in 
i length were made last year, there is ample time 
for them to bloom, and in due course almost 
every bud should throw out a blooming shoot. 
The mildew is the product of either a cold 
Iraught through the laps of the glass playing 
iron the foliage, or the roots are suffering from 
drought or are in bad soil. We have found cold 
currents of air to be the primary cause of mil¬ 
dew on the tender foliage of Roses.—D. 

9361.- Geranium stems rotting— 

rr.donbtedly caused by a tto ds^ 


9523. — Geraniums not blooming. — 

Too little sun and too much nutriment are the 
main causes of Geraniums not blooming in the 
open. Give them plenty of room for develop¬ 
ment (crowding will cause them to ran too much 
to leaf), a sunny exposure, aDd avoid rank 
stimulants, especially if the soil is of a strong 
nature, and they will bloom freely enough.— 
J. C. B. 

9614.—Myrtles.—These should be treated 
as merely requiring shelter from hard frosts 
in winter, growing them in the open air in full 
sunshine in summer. As the pots get full of 
roots shift into larger ones, using good loam and 
potting firmly. Give abundance of water in hot, 
dry weather. The small-leaved kind blooms 
when quite youDg, but the large-foliaged variety 
requires to be older before doing so. Boot 
water is excellent for them, imparting to the 
foliage a glossy hue.—J. C., Byjteet. 

9638.—Aurloulas.— Offshoots from Auri¬ 
cula plants simply need to be potted up singly 
in very small pots, using sandy loam to assist 
rooting, or be placed several in a larger pot. 
They will require repotting as they grow, as the 
Auricula should have no check in its young 
stage. A cool frame is better for the plants in 
summer than is a greenhouse, unless the latter 
looks north, for Auriculas are very impatient of 
a dry atmosphere, which breeds aphis and dries 
the soil too quickly.—D. 

9605.— Oleanders. —These plants are very ornamental 
in greenhouses. If constantly syringed they will never 
breed insects, hut should they get affected with scale or 
black hlight, a little washing with paraffin oil and water 
will at once cure the evil.—C. P. C. 

9589 — Geraniums and Heliotropes.—Pot the 
Geranium cuttings separately in 3-inch pots at once ; it 
should have been done a month or more ago. The 
Heliotrope cuttings will grow much stronger and far 
more bushy it the bloom is picked off as soon as it 
appears.— C. P. C. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 


Extracts from a Garden Diaery—May 7 to 12. 

Sowlog Mignonette in pots ; potting Caladiums, Achi- 
menes, and Epipliyllums; lying, stopping, and potting 
nchizanthnses, Mesembryanthemums, Petunias, Alys- 
sums, and Fuchsias; pottingCamelliasand Amarautuses; 
propngatiug double Primulas; sowing in pets seed of 
liianthus. Crimson belle, and Flastern Queen ; also 
Kschscholtzia Mandarin and Sweet Pea Violet Queen ; 
propagating Bouvardias and double white Primulaa ; 
pruning and nailing Fig treea on south walls ; also tying 
Figs in houses ; thinning out and tying shoots of 
Melons, and fertilising all open blossoms ; putting sup¬ 
ports to Molons swelling their fruit; hoeing betwt en 
strawberries; mulching them and dressing them with 
lime ; shifting Tomatoes for fruiting into cold houses; 
pricking out firet-sown Celery into prepared frames; 
potting a second batch of plants of Vegetable Marrow; 
sowing another bed of Broccoli, Cauliflower, and Savoy ; 
hoeing between growing crops of Onions and Potatoes ; 
earthing up the latter where necessary"; planting out 
Vegetable Marrowa on prepared bed, and sowing more 
seed nnder handllghts on manure bed; tying up Let- 
tuces to blanch; sowing crop of summer Spinach; 
earthing up Peas and Potatoes; hoeing between glow¬ 
ing crops of Potatoes, Onions, Greens, and digging 
trenches for Celery, and planting summer Lettuces on 
the ridges. 


Glasshouses. 

Hydrangeas. —A sufficient stock of cuttings 
of these should, if not already put in, be seen 
to at once, using the young shoots, which the 
spring-flowering plants usually produce freely. 
If the cuttings are kept moist, close, and in a 
little heat they will root in a fortnight. More 
plants intended to bloom should be pushed 
along to precede those that have been retarded, 
giving them plenty of manure water as growth 
progresses. Quick-growiDg, gross-feeding plants, 
such as these, are only seen in their best con¬ 
dition when liberally supplied with nutriment. 
Dip them in Tobacco water or fumigate as soon 
as aphides appear. 

Lilies. —As the shoots of these extend keep 
the pots well up to the glass; for the summer 
and autumn flowering kinds a cold frame in a 
light position, with the lights off in the daytime, 
will favour stout, sturdy stems much more than 
if kept in a plant house. If the stems are at 


all drawn up quickly the lower leaves will be 
proportionately thin in texture, rendering it 
impossible to keep them on until the plants 
bloom. As the earliest will now be growing 
freely, supply them regularly with manure water, 
so as to get them strong, as on this to a great 
extent depends the quantity of flowers which 
they produce. It is the nature of some Lilies 
to form a quantity of roots from the lower 
joints of the stem above the bulb; means 
should be taken to preserve and encourage 
these by adding soil, so as to cover them, or by 
potting them lower in pots a size larger; these 
stem-roots may not assist the growth of the 
bulbs, but they have a marked influence on the 
flowering. 

Chrysanthemums.— Late struck cuttings 
should at once be placed in 5-inch or 6-inch pots, 
and treated so as to get them on, stopping the 
shoots of those that are intended to be grown 
bush fashion. Do all that is possible to keep 
them sturdy ; if they are at all drawn up in their 
earliest stages it is nseless to expect the lower 
leaves to stand until blooming time. To this 
cause quite as much as to inattention in the 
way of giving water through the summer is 
attributable the Daked condition these plants 
get into before flowering. 

Achimenes and Gloxinias —Achimenes 
started some time back should not be allowed 
to make too much growth before they are 
transferred to the pots or baskets in which they 
are to bloom. It is well not to overcrowd them; 
if this is done, their flowering will be com¬ 
paratively short-lived, and the leaves will be 
almost certain to have a sickly yellow colour 
Few summer-blooming plants are so bright and 
effective as these when well managed ; where it 
is desirable to have them in bloom over as lorg 
a season as possible, they ought to be started 
into growth in succession, or else a portion 
shonld be subjected to less warmth than the 
rest, but they are heat-requiring subjects, and 
will not do well if deprived of a sufficiency of 
warmth during the early stages of their growth. 
Gloxinias that were started early will now be 
pushing up their flowers, and need all the light 
that can be given them so" as to keep the foliage 
stout and give strength and substance to the 
flowers and the stalks on which they are borne. 
The flabby, weak, half-prostrate condition in 
which these plants are often found destroys the 
character of both the foliage and flowers. 

Camellias.— Camellias that flowered earliest 
will now be in active growth, and if at all 
deficient in vigour through want of root room, 
soot water should be given once a week ; this 
will speedily show its effects in the increased 
size and deep colour of the leaves. 

Starmannia africana is another plant 
easily grown, and one of the freest of free 
bloomers. Its white flowers, set off with quanti¬ 
ties of singular filaments, have a distinct 
appearance unlike anything else, aDd being pro¬ 
duced during a considerable part of the winter 
and spring, render the plant doubly useful. To 
secure large specimens of it, cuttings ought to be 
struck in the usual way in a moderate heat 
about the beginning of March, and grown on 
with plenty of room, as required in summer. 
For such plants 12-inch pots will not be too 
large in which to bloom, but cuttings put in now- 
will make good flowering examples in 8-inch 01 - 
9-inch pots. Ordinary sandy loam will suit 
them, and they like plenty of light, the foliage 
standing more sun under glass than that of most 
things- 

Forced shrubs. —As has before been pointed 
out, the too common practice of allowing shrubs, 
such as Androroedas, Lilacs, double-flowering 
Plums, Ghent Azaleas, Laurustines, and Rhodo¬ 
dendrons, after having been forced to remain 
comparatively uncared for, is wasteful. Although 
such plants usually require a second season to 
bring them up to the condition they were in 
previous to forcing, it is well to iecollect that in 
most cases the warmth to which they have been 
subjected has caused them to make a quantity 
of young growths in addition to their roots also 
being set in motion, and unless they are 
gradually inured to the open air before being 
turned out of their pots, they suffer so much as 
to be reduced to all but a state of worthlessness; 
whereas, if duly cared for, with, after blooming, 
a year's rest, they will again do good service. 
The course of treatment they have undergone 
tends to check all inclination to exuberant 



106 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Mat 5, 1883 . 


growth, in place of which a disposition to flower 
profusely is secured. 

Bulbs.— If the latest bulbs, such as Hyacinths, 
Narcissi, Tulips, Crocuses, and Scillas, which will 
have bloomed without much forcing, are similarly 
well cared for by being turned out in the reserve 
ground and sufficient water given, they may be 
made useful in different ways, as all but the 
Hyacinths will, after an interval of a year, bloom 
in the open ground as well as if they had never 
been subjected to pot culture.—T. B. 

Cool Orchids. —With hardly any artificial 
heat the thermometer seldom falls in this house 
below 55° at night, unless perhaps an hour or 
two before daybreak, when the thermometer is 
low outside; under these circumstances it is de¬ 
sirable to remove any cool-house plants that have 
been wintered in the Cattleya house to their 
summer quarters in the cool house. Such Masde- 
valiias as M. tovarensis and all those of the 
Chimieroid section, also M. \Vagneri,&c., would 
now do better in the cool house. Indeed, our 
plants of M. tovarensis were removed long ago, 
as we found, by trying half of them in the cool 
house and the other half in the Cattleya house, 
that they did best where they were coolest. It 
may be, if the winter was more severe, that they 
would succeed best in warmer quarters. Numbers 
of plants of the M. Chimtera section of Mas- 
devallias have been recently imported, and all of 
them, except the true Chimaera, which produces 
its flowers from an upright stem, should be planted 
in baskets, the flowers being produced from the 
base of the plants, the flower-stems having a 
downward tendency. They like a position near 
the glass, but require a moist atmosphere, and, 
like the rest of the Masdevallias, plenty of water 
at the roots. The cool honse is now gay with 
flowers of Odontoglossums. and the earliest 
flowering Masdevallias, such as M. Veitchi and 
M. Chelsoni, are in flower, and form a striking 
contrast to the wealth of white, blush, and 
variously spotted forms of Odontoglossum 
cirrhosum, Pescatorei, and Alexandra. While 
there are so many plants in flower we are anxious 
to keep them in good condition as long as we 
can, and are careful not to sprinkle too much 
water about at night. The flowers do not damp 
off so much when there is a little heat in the 
hot-water pipes as they do when these are quite 
cool. A circulation of air night and day promotes 
the health of the plants and tends to the better 
preservation of the flowers.—J. D. 


Flower Garden. 

Sub-tropical garden.— The beds may now 
be edged and raked down ready for planting, 
but provions to doing this give such beds as are 
to be filled with plants that require abundance 
of manure a good scattering of guano or other 
fertiliser, which will thns get covered with soil 
at once. A commencement may then be made 
to plant out the hardier kinds, such as ornamental 
shrubs, Australian Dracaenas, Eucalypti, Hemps, 
Funkias, Fishbone Thistles, and also the hardier 
edging and groundwork plants, such as Ceras- 
tiums, Ajugas, Sedums, Veronicas, and Harri¬ 
son’s Musk; the lastisafine groundwork plant 
for large-growing dark-leaved plants in the way 
of Gibson’s Ricinus and Canna Van Houttei, and 
the partial shade which these afford seems to be 
just what is needed to keep the Musk in con¬ 
tinuous flower from early in summer until late in 
autumn. The tender section of plants will still 
need attention indoors; it will not be safe to 
plant them out till quite the end of the mouth, 
and some of them not till June. They should 
not be allowed to get root-bound, but be grown 
on freely, being given plenty of space and air. A 
single plant well grown affords more real satis¬ 
faction, and does as good service when planted 
out as do a dozen that have been huddled to¬ 
gether in heat. Tobacco, Chilian Beet, Love- 
lies-bleeding, and Perilla do best when planted 
in a very young state; they will now be ready to 
prick out into boxes, which when filled place in 
frames, and keep them rather close till the roots 
have begun to work in the new soil, then give 
air freely, and plant out in the last week in this 
month. 


Mixed flower borders. —Asters, Stocks, 
Marigolds, Larkspurs, Zinnias, and indeed all 
kinds of annuals, may be utilised for filling up 
vacancies. They should be planted in clumps 
containing five or seven plants each, taking 
pains to have the taller growers at, the back 


part of 



height in such a border is desirable—far other¬ 
wise, but simply that the arrangements may not 
look too lop-sided, owing to the tallest plants 
being too much in juxtaposition with the 
shortest. The commoner kinds of plants may 
still be sown for late flowering, viz., Delphiniums, 
Pyretbrums, and Dielytras. Tall Veronicas will 
now need tying up, in doing which endeavour to 
avoid a bunched-up broom-like appearance. On 
the contrary, tie them as loosely as is com¬ 
patible with their freedom from injury by wind 
or heavy rains. If continued gaiety of the 
borders be desired, and time can be devoted to 
the matter, many of the earliest kinds of spring 
flowers, such as Primroses, Daisies, and Arabia, 
that have now done flowering, may be taken up 
and planted in the reserve garden, and their 
places filled with any of the annuals mentioned 
above, or with ordinary kinds of bedding plants, 
such as Pelargoniums, Calceolarias, Petunias, 
and Verbenas; single and double Dahlias, 
Hollyhocks, Marvel of Peru, and any spare 
Cannas and Castor-oils that there may be will 
look well at the back part of the borders. 

General work _Weeding and, after rain, 

rolling walks, and mowing with the scythe for 
the first time new lawns that are being formed 
will now need attention. Get vacant beds in 
readiness for the reception of bedding plants. 
Transplant spring flowers and bulbs to the 
reserve garden, and at the same time increase 
the stock of desirable kinds by division and 
offsets. Clear lioses of green fly by syringing 
the plants with soap-suds, and in bad cases with 
Tobacco water. Tie up climbing Hoses, and 
direct the growth of recently-planted climbers, 
such as Ivy, See., by tacking in the principal 
shoots. 

Fruit. 

Melons. —When the fruit has attained the 
size of ducks’ eggs, select the fittest for swelling 
away evenly together, cut off duplicates and all 
lateral growths, top-dress with heavy loam, bone 
dust, and dry cow manure, and feed liberally. 
Avoid w;etting the foliage at the morning 
syringing, but damp all paths, walls, and sur¬ 
faces ; ventilate freely until noon, and syringe 
overhead after closing for the day. Pay parti¬ 
cular attention to young plants, and carefully 
avoid producing a check by stopping or cutting 
during the time the fruit is setting. Fertilise 
all female blossoms, and at the same time draw 
them up above the foliage to the influence of 
solar heat and light. When a good set has been 
secured, pinch two joints beyond the fruit, 
elevate those intended for the crop on inverted 
flower-pots, and trim away all surplus growths. 
If the bed of soil has been made between two 
planks placed 2 feet apart, the advantage of the 
plan will now be discovered in the facilities 
offered for top-dressing and feeding. Melons 
in pits and frames should never be shaded, 
neither should the soil at the outset be enriched 
with manure, but food of the richest quality 
may be given to them during the time they are 
swelling their fruit. 

Hardy fruit. —The performance of some 
operations, notably that of disbudding, will soon 
require prompt attention, but considering that 
we are just out of April, the little-and-often 
system of taking off a few shoots at a time 
should be strictly adhered to; and although the 
trees may be the better for having the covering 
removed, it should be kept within easy reach, 
and temporary copings should remain on the 
walls for some time longer. Give regular at¬ 
tention to the thinning of Apricots, which are an 
immense crop, and wage incessant war with the 
active grabs, which Boon do serious mischief, par¬ 
ticularly where the trees are heavily cropped and 
there is a dearth of foliage. Wash the trees well 
with clean water when days arc mild and cloudy. 
Mulch the borders with good rotten manure and 
old lime rubble, as calcareous matter will be in 
great demand at stoning time, and water 
copiously to insure its reaching every part of the 
soil in which the roots are embedded. Take the 
foreright growths off Peaches, also the small 
fruit from the shoots. Wash well with clean 
water, and always have the usual insecticide 
ready for application to parts affected on the 
first appearance of green fly. Examine the 
borders and see that the recently root-pruned or 
old trees do not suffer from the want of good 
mulching and feeding. The usual mode of 
training a feaph tree against a south wall or 


within a few inches of a glass roof, so as to ei- 
pose every leaf to the sun, is a most trying 
position, and unless a liberal supply of water is 
given to the roots and foliage, insect life will 
soon be abundant, and heavily cropped trees will 
ripen the fruit prematurely if they do not oast it 
when stoning. Look over Cherries and Plums 
on walls, destroy the grubby pinching the points 
of the shoots, and dip or syringe with Tobacco 
water on the first appearance of black or brown 
fly. The latter soon paralyses the young growths, 
and the grub makes very short work of a crop 
of Cherries ; hence the importance of thoroughly 
cleansmg the trees and walls when the trees are 
unnailed in winter. 

Vegetables. 

Herbs. —Sweet Basil should be sown in a 
frame under glass, and for a very early supply 
in pots in heat. When fully grown and just 
showing flower, it should be dried, powdered, 
and kept in bottles corked up tightly; in fact, 
all herbs retain their flavour when kept in this 
manner. Mint should now be planted, both tie 
Spearmint and Peppermint. The usual system 
pursued is to lay in three roots in a shallow 
drill, but the better plan is to take cuttings of 
them, i.e , the shoots that come away from tie 
old roots with a small piece of white stem, aid 
which are sure to groyv if bedded in nice light 
land. Concerning Sage, the old proverb," Plait 
Sage in May, it is sure to pay,” is literally true, 
slip the side shoots from the parted plant, and 
plant them with a dibber. This herb mate i 
good edging plant where trim Box edging cat 
not be had. Borage needs but little attention: 
where once grown scores of seedlings male 
their appearance, and supply all our waob 
gratis. Perhaps the most useful of all herbs is 
the knotted Marjoram; this should be son 
UDder glass, and planted out in small tnfts tie 
latter end of May. Tarragon is a useful berk, 
but in many places does not do well. Here it 
grows fine and strong. We part the old plain 
yearly, and replant them in a different place- 
giving them a few barrow-loads of burnt rete 
Such herbs as Savory, Thyme, Marigold, and it 
the more common varieties do well sown outside 
the first week in Slay. Lavender we strike from 
cuttings under handlights, and also Rosemary 
both are very useful. Lastly, our good friend 
Parsley must not be neglected. 

Tomato plants ought now to be 1 ft. high, and 
should worthily occupy 6-inch pots, before tie 
16th of May. They will be showing flower, 
when planted by the side of south walk 
will begin fruiting at once. President Grad 
Tomatoes and similar monstrosities are tot 
what is wanted, either for exhibition or pxivare 
use. Tomatoes should not be large; on the 
contrary, about six to a pound is above the right 
size. Speaking of Tomatoes, I may add thatthe 
green fruits gathered in autumD, and laid a* 
shelves under the glass to ripen, certainly 
become red, but as regards flavour it can oil? 
be compared with that of box fruit from on 
neighbours across the Channel. English To®' 
toes fetch from 2s. to 2s. 6d. per pound, while 
French ones only realise from Is. to Is. 6d. 

Hoe between all growing crops whenever t» 
weather is suitable. Plant double rows ci 
Lettuces on the top of Celery ridges. Keep» 
sufficient quantity tied up in the winterquuWj 
to meet all demands. How successional crops®' 
Turnips, Lettuces, Radishes, Mustard and Cress, 
Sec. Now is a good time to thorouglil)' clean 
walks, cut Box hedges, and finish by putting» 
little gravel on the walks, so that all may * 
smart and trim for the summer.—E. G. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN'. 
Out-of-door operations will not differ mat*- 
rially from those directed last week, viz.,keepicg 
grass and gravel in order and preparing the be® 
for the reception of the summer bedding pl» Dts - 
Attend to the thinning out of the beds an 
patches of annuals ; if the soil is rich and the 
seed good they will do much better if 
plant is allowed a considerable space than it “ 
all crowded. 

Sow now Phlox Drummondi, Balsams, Al¬ 
ters, and even such things as Amarantus, Pen a - 
RicinuB, and other tender annuals may be sown 
now outside with a fair prospect of success, 
is of course if they have not already been start 
under glass. Plant out beds of German , toe. 


I 

i 

i 






I 


t 


j 





>! Mat 5, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


107 


'■from the earliest sowing when the plants have 
1 become strong and well hardened. These plants 
require shade from hot sun for a week or two- 
1 after being put out. 

Greenhouse plants are now growing apace. 

, and many things require more room. To this 
end remove all bedding Geraniums, Lobelias, 
Petunias, <kc., to cool frames, or even a turf pit 
~ under a sheltering wall with a moveable cover¬ 
ing of calico will do. This will benefit the 
plants and afford more room indoors. Trick off 
Gloxinia seedlings in fine sandy peat, with good 
drainage, and keep them close and shady in a 
house, pit, or frame, at 70° to 80°, or as near 
this as possible. Keep the spring-struck and 
indeed all kinds of Fuchsias growing on fast in 
a moist, warm atmosphere. These delight in a 
frequent shower overhead from the syringe 
three or four times a day at the present time; 
be sure and keep them moist at the roots as well. 

Pot Maidenhair and other Ferns just storting 
into growth into fresh sandy peat and loam, 
and keep them moist and shaded while growing. 
Stop the laterals on Vines at one joint beyond 
the fruit as soon as this can be perceived; 
barren shoots should be stopped beyond the 
third full-sized leaf, and weak shoots should be 
taken out all together. 

Boom Plants. —Such plants as Palms and 
Dracamas, that are usually kept in rooms, should 
now, if possible, be removed to a warm, moist 
greenhouse. The growth of these, though very 
robust and enduring when once matured, can¬ 
not be properly made in the dry, harsh air of 
a sitting room. To do them justice they must 
be treated as above, and when the growth has 
been made and matured, they may be replaced 
with impunity. B. C. B. 


BOSES. 

ROSES ON BRIER STOCKS. 

The reason why standards and other Roses die 
in suburban villa gardens is because in nine 
- cases out of ten they have nothing but brick 
rubbish with a little mould on the top to grow 
in. No Rose can grow in such stuff. They shonld 
be planted as recommended by “ J. D. ” Why 
briers and Manetti stocks throw up suckers*is 
because their heads are cut in too close. It is 
well known that we always stop a plant at the 
top if we want it to throw ont growth at the 
bottom. A Rose with a fine head very rarely 
produces suckers. I think there are no Roses the 
shape of which are so good as those called 
globular, such as La France, Marechal Niel, 
N'iphetos, Ac. “ J. D.” says we have too many 
of these, and speaks of enthusiasm ; but 1 think 
that word might be fittingly applied to those 
who like a wilderness for a garden. “J. D.” 
should go to the banks of the river Dart and the 
hills and dells round about Torquay, where I 
have myself enjoyed and admired Nature in all 
her glory; but “ J. D.” must know that we can¬ 
not make such picturesque scenes in villa gar¬ 
dens, and it is absurd to try to undertake them. 
People who have gardens near London as a rule 
lean towards things artificial rather than natural; 
and if they do want natural scenery they go to 
Upping Forest or elsewhere, but they will never 
turn their gardens into small wildernesses to 
please anybody. 

“ J. D." says, “ I admit I have not tried own- 
root Roses to any extent,” but I never made such 
a statement. On the contrary, I have had a life¬ 
long experience with own-root Roses as well as 
Boses on stocks. I have grown own-root Roses 
largely, and have sold them 3 feet high and very 
bushy for a shilling each, and glad to get rid of 
them. I have since had to replace them with 
Boses on Briers. Why own-root Iloses do not 
as a rule do so well as Roses on Brier and 
Manetti stocks is because they are making a 
double growth at the same time, that is to say, 
while the flower is forming the suckers or shoots 
are growing for the next season, and the 
stronger they are the more they rob the Rose. 

If amateurs or anyone else want Roses for gar¬ 
dens only they should buy all the fine flowering 
kinds worked on stocks from 2 inches to 5 feet 
in height. They can then arrange them to suit 
any position, and this without knowing any¬ 
thing about either grafting or budding, which 
"J. D.” says is necessary. 

Woodford. A PRACTICAL MAJL 

Digitized by GOOQlC 


Roses in vineries.— We grow many dif¬ 
ferent kinds of Roses here, both indoors and 
ont, but none are so worthy of note as a fine 
specimen of a Mar6chal Niel, which covers one 
end of a vinery and part of the back wall. It is 
growing in a raised border, where it has ample 
space for its roots, and where the hot-water pipes 
do not interfere with them. This Rose is quite 
a sight just now ; its beautiful bronze foliage is 
changing to pale green, and it is thickly 
clustered with rich, golden blooms. We first 
commenced to cut them in March; the flower- 
buds then numbered 375. We expect it will con¬ 
tinue blooming for at least two months yet. The 
soil for Mar6chal Niel cannot be too rich; a 
mixture of good turfy loam and well decomposed 
manure in equal portions suits it best. Before 
pruning it should be allowed to run over the 
space intended for it to fill. If the blooms are 
required in March and April, it should be pruned 
at the end of December. It should be syringed 
well on bright days, and if mildew makes its 
appearance the foliage should be dusted with 
fiowers of sulphur. When the flower buds have 
formed, feed plentifully with liquid manure. 
Roses succeed best in late vineries, where the 
temperature ranges from 60° to 55° at night.— 
S. B., Newbridge. 

9607.— Rose house. —A span house is as 
well suited for the growth of Roses as is a lean- 
to, and where the plants are grown in bush form 
planted on either side of a centre pathway, the 
arrangement is suitable. The height of the 
house is of no great consequence, as we have 
seen Roses doing well in high houses and in low 
ones. It is not even of the first importance that 
there should be so very much top air. We have 
a large span house in which Roses grow finely 
trained near the glass, but can have no top 
ventilation whatever. In our own case the Roses 
are on Brier stocks, and being planted in an out¬ 
side border are brought through and trained up 
over wires as Vines would be. The soil is a 
strong, stiff loam, into which only dressings of 
short manure are occasionally worked. The 
result is such growth, though the Roses have 
been planted nine years, that we have to cut 
away almost a cart-load of growth during the 
year. We incline to the belief that the soil 
in which “Unfortunate’s ” Roses are growing is 
too light or open, and needs strong loam added 
in considerable proportion. We should dispense 
with leaf soil. It is poor stuff at the best, and as 
it decays leaves the soil far too porous. Roses 
are touchy things to force by a novice, and it 
would be wise to let the plants come on naturally, 
in any case for a year or two, till they were not 
only well established, but had made plenty of 
strong top growth. The heat is always pro¬ 
motive of dry air in spite of evaporating pans, 
and nothing can be more harmful to Roses. 
Still we think the chief defect lies in the soil, 
as not being sufficiently solid or holding for the 
roots.—A. D. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


THE PANSY. 

Tiie last few years has brought the Pansy 
greatly into favour, and those who have seen 
good blooms of the named kinds cannot but 
admire the beauty of colouring, especially among 
the fancies. I remember first seeing a real good 
Pansy bloom. I was struck with astonishment. 
I never thought they could have attained such a 
degree of perfection. The only ones I had seen 
before were the common seedlings we see in 
nearly every cottage garden. It may not be 
generally known that the Pansy of our day has 
been originally cultivated from the common 
wild Pansy we see growing in the fields, a poor, 
insignificant thing, with hardly any colouring, 
except just a tip of yellow on a white ground, 
and a dash or two of purple, and in size much in¬ 
ferior to our blue hedgerow Violet. In fact, 
there is almost as much difference between a 
good show or fancy Pansy and a common one 
as there is between a wayside Dog Rose and 
those Roses we see at exhibitions. There has 
for the last few weeks been a good deal asked 
and said about the Pansy in Gardening as to 
which are show and which bedding kinds. Now, 
to settle the point, I may say there are but 
two classes of Pansies’, viz., show and fancy, 
lint, it may be asked, what is a bedder? A 
bedding Pansy is one that is of dwarf habit and 
a free bloomer; therefore, either a show or a 


fancy which has the last-named properties may 
be called bedders (seifs preferred). There is also 
another class of Pansies without any blotch 
which are called bedders, but they are a very 
low type, and, in my opinion, more of the Viola 



Bloom of Show Pansy. 

AAA, belt; B, blotch; c, eye ; CCD, ground colour 
(white or yellow.) 


style. The difference between a show and a 
fancy Pansy is this—a show has a small blotch 
and a fancy a large one. In my opinion a judge 
has no right to disqualify a bedding Pansy if 
put in its right place, viz., a small blotched one 
among the shows and a large blotched o3e 
among the fancies. No doubt there are a great 
many readers of Gardening who do not know 
the blotch from any other part of the flower, 
and I think the best way to let them know is to 
give an illustration of a show and also of a fancy 



Bloom of Fancy Pansy. 
C, eye ; B, blotch. 


Pansy. I now give the properties or points of 
Pansies, extracted from Mr. Glenny’s work on the 
subject, and on looking at, the illustrations it 
will be seen which is the blotch, eye, belt. See., 
and the difference between a show and a fancy 
Pansy. 

Properties of Show Pansies.— Form .—The 
outline should be a perfect circle, and free of 
every notch, serrature, or uneveness, the petals 
lying close and evenly on each other. Texture. 

—The petals should be thick, and of a rich 
glossy, velvety appearance. Colour .—In all 
two-coloured flowers the ground colour shonld 
be perfectly alike in all the three lower petals, 
and should be circular, and of equal width be- 
I tween the blotch and the belt in the three lower 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 








103 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Mat 5 , 1883 . 


petals. Belting .—The belt or margin should be 
exactly the same shade as the two top petals, 
and whether broad or narrow, should be of equal 
breadth throughout, without running into or 
hushing with ground colour. Blotch .—The 
blotch should be dense and solid, and of circular 
character, free from all running into or through 
the ground colour or the eye. Eye .—This should 
be bright gold or orange, and solid without mix¬ 
ing or running into the blotch, and should be 
exactly in the centre of the bloom. Size .—The 
larger bloom (other properties being equal) 
should be the better, but no flower should be 
considered Ht for competition under 1^ inches 
in diameter. Stlf».—Ot whatever colour, should 
be of the same shade througbout, in yellow, 
white, blue, or any other shade, the denser the 
blotch the better. 

PROPERTIES OF FANCY PANSIES. — First, 
form ; second, texture ; third, harmony of 
colour; fourth, smoothness; fifth, size. In 
fancy Pansies it is of great importance to have 
a large dense blotch and solid eye, not mixing 
or running into the blotch. 


Cultivation and general management. 
—Three parts of rotten turf, two parts of leaf- 
mould, and one of good rough sand, thoroughly 
mixed by continually turning it over, forms a 
good compost in which Pansies will grow well. 
The best time for transplanting them is 
from the beginning to the end of April, I find 
the earlier the better. The sun being rather 
powerful later on, will scorch the plants if not 
shaded in someway. This should be done, or many 
plants will die or do little good through the 
season. Give a good watering after planting, 
beiDg careful not to do so while the sun is shining 
upon them; early morning is the best time. 
Slugs are a great pest to Pansy growers. The 
best way I find to destroy them is to dust the 
plants with slaked lime. Put the lime in 
muslin bag, and knock the bag on a stick or other 
implement, and the lime dust from the bag will 
fall all over the plants and kill the slugs 
This should be done at night, as they are then 
out feeding; it is a good plan also to dust the 
ground between the plants, as they cannot then 
c*et back to their day quarters without crossing 
t e lime, and so perish. To destroy green fly 
dissolve 1.1 oz. of soft soap in a gallon of water, 
and water the plants with the mixture through a 
tine rosed watering can, remembering not to do 
so when they are in bloom, or it will completely 
spoil the flowers; at other times it is harmless 
In hot weather atop-dressing of short grass or 
litter laid round the roots of the plants is of 
great service in keeping the surface of the ground 
moist. Some say this harbours slugs, but to 
remedy the evil water the litter with salt and 
water before laying it on. A good dressing of 
sand put round the plants will make the young 
shoots which should be taken for cuttings root 
better; if sand be used many of the shoots will 
be rooted before taking them from the plant. 
Flowering shoots do not make good plants; they 
root badly and grow inferior blooms ; those which 
some from the base of the plants are the ones to 
h" taken. If exhibition blooms are wanted, 
t iree or four shoots are plenty to leave on a 
plant, others should be pinched off. When they 
liave got established in the ground, give them 
weak liquid manure water three times a week 
Pinch off all flower-buds that, appear up to six¬ 
teen days before the show; after that date cease 
pinching, also giving manure water, and, if 
properly managed, the result will be some large 
and good blooms. Sing-eaten or split blooms 
should not be exhibited. If the weather is hot, 
shade the blooms; for this purpose pieces of card¬ 
board may be used, or, better still, tin made into 
the shape of an extinguisher, size about 4 inches 
in diameter at the bottom and the same height; 
these can be fixed into the top of a stick with a 
slit in it, and placed over the blooms. If these 
are on long stalks, they should be tied to short 
stakes, to keep the wind from dashiDg them. 
Pansies are exhibited on stands painted dark 
green, with holes bored in them toput the stalks 
of the blooms through, and tin tubes underneath 
to hold water. Stands can be had at the follow¬ 
ing prices: To hold six blooms, Is. 2d.; twelve 
b o.>m«, 2s.; eighteen blooms, 2s. 8d.; twenty- 
f iur blooms, 3s, 6d. I make my stands and tubes 
in- self, and no doubt almost, any amateur can 
d i the same, as very little skill is required, 
g t some old boxes from the grocers. The 
s mds should^e about 3J inches high in 

Digitized by QO 


t 3Jinch 

’8 le 


front, 4<l inches or 5 inches at the back, 
and about 74 inches wide at the end; this 
width will hold two rows of blooms. Of course 
the length depends on the number of blooms the 
stand is to hold, 2J inches should be allowed 
between each hole, and 2 inches from the outside 
hole to the edge of the stand. If you cannot 
manufacture your own tubes, go to your tinman; 
they cost about Is. 3d. a dozen. In taking cut¬ 
tings I find that the earliest strike root better 
in the open air and those taken late do best in 
cold frames. Cuttings may be taken any time 
from May to October, but J uly and August are 
the best months for doing so. Any good garden 
soil, mixed with some good rough sand, will 
strike them. Do not plant them under trees, or 
the drip from the trees will cause many of them 
to rot off. February, 1 find, is about the worst 
month for their damping off. As Jo giving a list 
of the best Pansies, I think this is needless, as 
so many have already been given. The best 
selection among the fancies, in my opinion, is 
that given by Mr. John Turnbull. I may as well 
say a word or two about " half-and-half Pansies/ 
I call them, that is having a blotch of middle 
size, being too large for a show and too small for 
a fancy. Judges will often disqualify those with 
faulty blotches, and I advise competitors not to 
exhibit them. Mrs. Felton, Duchess of Edin¬ 
burgh, King of CrimsonB, George Rodgers, Ac., 
are of this type. Geo. Henderson. 

Hal am Lane, Southwell. 


PLANTING OUT HYACINTHS AFTER 
BLOOMING. 

9523.—I can say from my own experience that 
very good use can be made of Hyacinths that 
have been flowered in pots and glasses. Some 
attention and a little extra trouble are required, 
and that at various periods of the year, but the 
results, in my opinion, far exceed those obtained 
from an equal amount of attention bestowed on 
most of the ordinary spring flowers. The bulbs 
which have been flowered in glasses are taken 
out after the bloom has faded and are planted 
closely in boxes filled with good rich mould or 
finely-sifted earth which has been mixed with 
some old manure. They are watered to allow the 
earth to settle down about them, and the boxes 
are put in some odd corner where they will 
receive a sbaro of sunshine without the risk of 
their contents being scorched or dried up too 
quickly. The bulbs which have been flowered in 
pots are allowed to remain in them, and the pots 
are placed alongside the boxes. Any time in July 
or August, when the leaves are in a half withered 
state, the bulbs are taken out of the boxes and 
pots and laid out side by side on a board or tray. 
They are kept as dry as possible, and on every 
suitable day they are left outside exposed to the 
mid-day sun till the leaves are completely 
withered, when, with or without the leaves—for 
it does not seem to matter much—they are put 
into a muslin bag and hung up, or otherwise laid 
aside in a dry store-room. The process of drying 
and ripening the bulbs of Hyacinths is much the 
same as that so familiar to cottagers in drying 
Onions. 

In open weather in January of the following 
year holes are scooped out with the trowel about 
C inches deep and 6 inches apart along the edge 
of the Rhododendron border and just inside 
the grass verge. The holes are half filled with 
the soil from the boxes and pots, with a little 
sand added, and a bulb is put into each and 
covered up with the same material. No further 
attention is required. In April they will make 
a beautiful show so far as colour is concerned, 
and although the individual flowers may be 
poor as compared with those of the first year, 
yet half of them may have stalks with as many 
as ten or twelve “ bells ” on each, and few stalks 
will have less than five “ bells.” For brilliancy 
and variety of colour, the show made by them is 
scarcely equalled by any spring flowers we pos¬ 
sess, not excepting even the Tulip and the 
Crocus; but in order to enjoy it thoroughly it is 
necessary to disabuse the mind of the idea that 
they are merely spent and worn-out things that 
are stuck in the ground to die a slow death. 
They are particularly useful in some cold, wet 
localities in the west of Scotland, where few 
spring flowers can be grown successfully, but I 
find that they have another good quality to re¬ 
commend them besides their brilliant colours. 
This morning, during a bright gleam of sun¬ 
shine, whilst walking past a small clump of Rho¬ 


dodendrons, I was agreeably surprised to detect 
a delicious but familiar perfume. I thought st 
first that it came from some Auriculas which 
were just bursting into bloom, but a closer in¬ 
spection showed me that it came from a row o! 
a dozen of last year's Hyacinths, which had been 
planted in the border. Anyone can imagine what 
the effect would have been if there had been a 
hundred instead of a dozen. P. K. 


9612.— Planting bulba In Graas.-Ihe 

□otion of planting bulbs in Grass is a very 
pretty one, but the success much depends up® 
how it is set about. If the bulbs be simply 
planted into holes made in the Grass without 
the soil being in any way prepared, but poor re 
suits can be hoped for unless the soil is naturally 
good, such as is found in an old meadow. The 
soil of lawns is usually rather poor, not only be¬ 
cause no manure is added, but also because it it 
desirable that the soil should be rather poor to 
check the growth of the Grass. To ensure suc¬ 
cess, turf in patches should be taken off thinly, 
the soil broken up and manured, the bulbs ani 
roots planted, and the turf relaid. Of course if 
the Grass be kept oft rolled and mown it is not 
so soft and suitable for the bulbs as is the turf 
in a meadow. Some bulbs have more piercing 
power than others. Thus the Snowdrop, Crocus, 
and Squill will sometimes do well on turf, and 
so will the Narcissus ; but Hyacinths, Anemone*, 
and Ranunculuses would hardly thrive unless 
the soil was remarkably good, the Grass thit 
and soft. In all cases the foliage should I* 
allowed to remain until it is ripe or mature, and 
when that is the case it may be removed uni 
the Grass mown as often as desirable. All the 
bulbs and roots named are very cheap, and it 
making an experiment the risk is slight home 
may die, but others may live and do well, and it 
would be well in such case to replace those that 
die with bulbs or roots of those kinds that lave 
succeeded,—A. 

9625.— Annuals and perennials for 
out flowers. - If “ T. W.” growssomeof !h> 
following he will have a very nice selection of 
flowets for cut bloom; Annual/.— Aster, Cal¬ 
ceolaria, Campanula, Clarkia, Godetia, Lark¬ 
spur, Mignonette, Nemophila. Petunia, S«*> 
Pea, Phlox Drummondi, Zinnias, of tort; 
Perennials. — Antirrhinum majus, Couvaflarii 
majalis, Lily of the Valley, Delphinium. Spin. 
Phlox elegans, Sweet William, Cinquefoil, Globe 
Ranunculus, double Chamomile, (EnotheraKo¬ 
tina (Evening Primrose). Ido not think “T.W. 
can do better than to grow some of the comm™ 
garden Ferns to mingle with his flowers—A. H. 
Davis, Canhallon. 

- A few of the best are Sweet Alyseam, 

Antirrhinums, Aquilegias, Auriculas. Candytuft*. 
Canterbury Bells, Clarkias, Collinsias, Esch*cMi- 
zias (these have very pretty leaves, which lcol 
well Rtuck here and there among the flower*;. 
Forget-me-nots, Godetias, Larkspurs Linnnu, 
Lupins (these flowers are almost too large to 
place with the usual kind of cut flowers, but 
their leaves are very useful), Malopes, Nastur¬ 
tiums, Nemophilas, Pansies, Sweet Peas, Poly¬ 
anthuses, Primroses, Virginian Stocks,andWall- 
flowers. The above list comprises some of the 
most useful kinds for cut flowers.—A. E. Hitt 

9632.— Hyacinths In the open ground 
—There is no need to take up the bulbs after 
blooming, unless the ground is required for 
other things; they flower better if allowed to 
remain undisturbed from year to year. As they 
were planted so late, they will not flower » 
strongly as if set out in late autumn, which is the 
proper time for doing so. Give them every 
a top-dressing of manure, and they will flower 
strongly.—J. C. B. 

9524.— Gentlena soaulis— It is 
useless to sow seeds of this unless fresh gathere 1 
It should be sown as soon as ripe, and those 
who wish to raise seedlings should procuresomc 
good strong clumps and save their own seen. 
But the common method is to divide old plan a 
and prick out each shoot in good soil, which ar 
to be well attended to through the summer 
the way of watering. The Gentians i° v< ? 
rich, rather tenacirns loam; it does not °t _ 
succeed well in light, sandy, porous sous- 
planting, the earth should be pressed nr . 
around the roots, and the surface should he m 
very firm. Where the natural staple is s 
and porous, I would connsel the making 



Mat 5, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


109 



piece of ground for this Gentian, taking out the 
natural soil 6 inches deep and tilling up with 
loam.—J. C. B. 


FLOWERS OF MAV. 

The sweet old month of the Maypole is indeed 
the month of flowers. Were we to re-name our 
months, surely May should be changed to that 
of Flora, for it is the season of the beautiful in 
oature if the weather be but as pleasing as the 
flowers are charming. There is a favourite old 
song, the burthen of which is “ to be as wel¬ 
come as the flowers in May," and the high esti¬ 
mation in which this song is held shows how 
iear to all May flowers are. In our fondness 
for English or common designations wo have 
ailed the White Thorn “ May ” from time im- 
nemorial, and the artist seems to have been 
.ranting in true poesy in omitting to place a 
ittle cluster of the pretty May bloom in the 
rictnre. But of all May 
lowers none are so 
elective and, we might 
llmost say, so noble as 
ire those borne so abun¬ 
dantly, and we might 
veil add so grandly, 
m our spring blooming 
rees. Amongst so many 
t is difficult to say 
vliich is the finest, but 
ertainly very noble is 
he white Horse Chest- 
mt, when the wind is 
:ent!e, and the fine 
pikesof bloom adorn the 
uxuriant leafage. The 
carlet kind, too, is very 
fleetive, and merits a 
\igh place in our flower- 
og trees; so also does the 
Iroopingand truly lovely 
.aburnutn, one of the 
cost charming of all our 
decorative trees. Then 
here is the singularly 
raceful snowy Mespi- 
us,and in beautiful con- 
rast the pink and scar- 
‘t Thorns, especially the 
ouble kind — a truly 
uperbtree, so striking 
nd so effective is its 
ch colouring. The Al- 
Kinds are now being 
eplaced by the snowy 
rhite double Cherries, 
nd of all orchard trees 
he richest coloured 
v the Apple, so sweetly 
'ink and in quantity so 
leautiful. Even if the 
Apple should fail to 
ruit, its spring bloom 
ives some compensa- 
ion, but we best like to 
ee the pink bloom suc- 
eeded by abundance of 
osy-cheeked or golden- 
med fruit. 

The thorny members 
if the Pyrus family call 
or special notice,as these 
give us much beauty, 
iotb in rosy and white 
lowers. One of the 
trandest shrubs is the 
Magnolia, some of the 
larlier blooming kinds giving many noble 
towers and much sweet perfume. The common 
i.anrestinns is very charming, and the various 
leccrative members of the Currant, or Ribes 
family, whether red or yellow, help to make our 
•hnibberies very gay. Then we have grand 
rhododendrons carrying trusses of bloom, so 
richly coloured as almost to defy description. 
Indian Azaleas are gorgeous in hue, the yellow 
Herberts Aqnifolium is a mass of golden crowns, 
*cd the deciduous Darwini is one of the most 
graceful of all our shrubbery denizens. Nor 
twst we forget that dear old May flower, the 
lilac, which, whether white or coloured, are 
equally admired and beautiful. But we must 
out omit Fortune’s yellow and some of the 
“artier climbing Roses, the sweet Jasmine, and 
Am fine twining Wistaria, as bnt a few of these 
useful shrubs that so much help in May to make 
•he walls of our houses befutitnlrv It is,uo| 

Digitized b. \jOOvT 


Candytufts, the intense blue Gentians, and 
Lithospermum prostratum, the pink Daphnes, 
the pale blue Forget-me-nots, especially the 
pretty Omphalodes verna, the double blue 
Anemone apennina and white nemorosa, in tufty 
Saxifrages, and myriads of other hardy things, 
fit companions in the development of coloor 
and beauty on the miniature mountains which 
some of our gardens afford. In borders the 
globe-flowered Trollius, the Bluebells or Belgian 
Squills, some of white and rosy hues, the many- 
coloured Polyanthuses, early Stocks, and yellow 
and blood-red Wallflowers are helping to make 
the garden gay. Border Tulips, the rich-bued, old 
flaked, and self-coloured kinds in many gardens, 
the noble Crown Imperials, some of the earlier 
Irises, and later Narcissus, especially the pretty 
white Pheasant-eye, are all most valuable, and 
produce flowers in great luxnriance. What gay 
rjpsegays of flowers, too, we may have in beds 


TREES AND SHRUBS 


Clipping hedges —The only way to keep 
hedges of any kind thick is by frequent clipping. 
We usually clip our hedges of Yew, Privet, 
Thom, or Laurel about the first week in May, 
again in July, and again in September; there¬ 
fore there is little to cut at any one time. In 
the case of deciduous plants, such as Privet, if 
the shoots are allowed to get long the lower 
leaves drop off, and when cut the hedge has a 
bare, stubby appearance; whereas, if clipped 
while the shoots are soft, shprt, and green, the 
leav es are retained so long that such hedges 
become nearly evergreen. Other excellent 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


possible to enumerate one half the trees and 
shrubs that bloom in and beautify the flowery 
month of May, for verily they are legion. But 
when we come to deal with the border plants, 
the perennials and bulbs, the habitants of our 
rockeries, the biennials and hardy annuals, and 
other May border flowers, we find that the 
number is indeed wondrous, and that reference 
to the mass is impossible. 

Our artist has made prominent the favourite 
Lily of the Valley, so elegant and so sweet, so also 
has he included Pinks, white and red, sprays of 
Phlox frondosa, and other flowers with which 
all are familiar. Pinks naturally chime with 
Giant Thrifts and blue Corn Bottles as cut 
flowers, and Lilies of the Valley would be in¬ 
complete without their ally, the gracefully 
drooping Solomon's heal. The creeping Phloxes, 
so charming upon rockwork, find in the rich- 
coloured Aubrietias, the snowy white perennial 


Flowers of May. Lily of the Valley, Pinks, Jasmines, <tc. 


from Pansies and Violas in profuse variety. How 
gay are the masses of yellow, how pure the 
clumps of white, and how funereal are the purple 
hues. These gay masses of Silene, of the parti¬ 
coloured Limnanthus, of golden Alyssum, of 
white Iberis corifolia, of red, ciimson, and white 
Daisies, of mixed beds of variegated and often 
gorgeous Anemones, the simple Ladies' Smock 
in its pleasing double form—these and myriads 
of other hardy plants will make our parterre 
gardens in May as beautiful as at any time 
of the year. In the greenhouse the wealth of 
flowers is marvellous, but these are mainly beside 
our reference. Garden hardy flowers are every¬ 
body's flowers, and thus everybody may find 
ample beauty and delight in the floral wealth of 
the month of May. 


Gentlana aoaulis as an edging —This 
lovely Gentian when seen in established lines or 
masses has few equals 
amongst blue • flowered 
plants. It appears to 
grow best in firm soil. We 
have it as broad bands 
inside the brick edgings 
of our kitchen garden, 
where the soil does not 
get disturbed at any time 
very close to the roots ; 
when transplanteditdoes 
not take kindly to its 
new situation unless the 
soil is well consolidated 
about its roots. We usu¬ 
ally tread it in if it gets 
loosened in any way by 
the action of frost. After 
it gets rooted it gives 
no further trouble, and 
yearly increases in flori- 
ferousness. Some lines of 
itthat have been planted 
several years arc now a 
complete mass of flowers, 
which when fully ex¬ 
panded in the sunshine 
have a striking effect,un¬ 
equalled bythat of any of 
the tender exotic plants 
which we possess. I may 
here remark tbatcommon 
brick edgings associate 
well with this and many 
similar plan's, such as 
Saxifrages, Seduros,&c.; 
and anyone wishing for 
a good substitute for Box 
or tile edgings should 
give ordinary bricks a 
trial. Lay them in so that 
one aide slopes from the 
walk, and then plant 
anything desired just 
inside. Such edgings will 
last for many years, and 
givescarcely any trouble. 
When the plants are in 
bloom they have a 
cheerful effect, and when 
the old flower-stalks are 
cutoff they look neat and 
trim during the whole 
year. Many early spring 
flowers make excellent 
edgings. The Alyssums, 
Aubrietias Daisies, and 
plants of similar habit 
may be utilised in this way, but anyone giving 
this Gentian a trial for such a purpose will be 
sure to wi»h to increase the stock of it every 
year.—J. G. L. 













lio GARDENING ILLUSTRATED [Mat 5, 1883. 


plants for hedges are the Hornbeam and com¬ 
mon Beech. These, if kept clipped close in, 
become very thick and stubby, and the leaves, 
instead of dropping, dry on the shoots, and do 
not drop until the rising sap in spring loosens 
their hold. Keep the base clear of weeds by 
frequent hoeing, and the top dense by frequent 
clipping, and such hedges will prove both orna¬ 
mental and useful. In the case of Hollies, and 
in fact that of all evergreens adapted for 
hedges, May is perhaps the best month in the 
year for planting them.—J. G. L. 

Pyrua Malus floribunda. — Amongst 
shrubs now in flower none are more showy and 
beautiful than this, its branches being clothed 
their entire length with rosy piDk blossoms. As 
a lawn plant nothing can be more graceful or 
beautiful; the shoots being naturally pendulous, 
it forms a good standard, and for shrubberies it 
is equally valuable in the bush form. I have 
not yet tried it in pots, but have no doubt it! 
would force well, and if so would be very orna¬ 
mental in any greenhouse. The way to propa¬ 
gate it is to put in cuttings made of the ripened 
shoots. This should be done in autumn in the 
same manner as Gooseberries and Currants are 
managed, and they will be found to strike almost 
as freely.—S. D. 

Euonymuses as town bushes.— It 

would be interesting to know what particular 
species of Euonvmus is recommended by “ C.” 
for growing near towns. The name of this shrub 
is said to be derived from Euonyme, mother to 
the Furies, in allusion to the injurious effects 
produced by its fruit, and Sir William Hooker, 
in his “ British Flora,” tells us that the berries, 
and even the leaves of the Euonymus europauis 
are dangerous, and the whole plant fetid. 
Probably, however, the other kinds do not 
possess these poisonous properties.—P. It. 

9626.— Moving old Yew tree.— “F. 
H. Peters ” will make a mistake if he attempts 
to transplant such a valuable tree as a Yew 200 
years old, unless under the directions and per¬ 
sonal superintendence of an experienced gar¬ 
dener or forester. Most people would prefer to 
allow it to remain where it has stood so long, 
and nothing but dire necessity would compel 
them to disturb it.—P. R. 

- Not long since an immense Yew tree, 

nearly 1000 years old, was removed in a church¬ 
yard near Dover, and so far it seems to be duing 
all right, though the risk was great. That opera¬ 
tion was performed by Mr. Barron, of Borrow- 
ash Nursery, Derby, at considerable cost, by 
using machinery and a large amount of labour. 
It would be best to consult an experienced 
nurseryman in a matter of such grave import¬ 
ance.—D. 

9024.—Cutting back Rhododendrons.—If the 
Rhododendrons have been transplanted in soil sufficiently 
rich to allow the root-clumps to extend themselves in all 
directions, they may l>e cut back at once. The ground at 
the roots should be kept moist nil summer, and before 
the end of the season every plant will be covered with 
new shoots and lenves. Flower buds will not be formed 
till the following year —P. R. 

9628.—Deodars looking rusty.—The Deodars no 
doubt have suffered flora the severe frosts and cold winds 
of last March, and will doubtless soon get round again. 
All this class of trees, however, are benefited by top 
dressings of fresh soil, and some well rotted manure 
applied in the spring.—D. 


FRUIT. 

FRUIT IN MARKET GARDENS. 
Where these have been roughly dug during the 
winter, as is the custom about here, many strong 
rooting weeds will now be pushing up strongly, 
even though they have been buried for months. 
Coltsfoot, Docks, Couch Grass, k.c., will find their 
way to the surface if only buried one spit deep, 
and experience proves that in this stiff soil, 
unless spring and summer cultivation are strictly 
carried out, the land soon gets into a foul con¬ 
dition, as in autumn, owing to the press of work 
connected with harvesting the fruit, the weeds 
generally make rapid headway, more especially 
if the season be wet. At the winter cultivation 
it is therefore difficult to clean the ground 
properly. It is dug as roughly then as possible, 
so that the frost may act on the lumps of soil 
and pulverise them. Now, therefore, is the time 
when workmen, armed with stout three-pronged 
hoes like little forks set on a handle like a rake, 
proceed to pull over the lumps just named, and 
work them down to a fine tilth, bringing as the 
work proceedsrthe large weedte to the surface ; 

Co gie 


when in their blanched state they quickly wither 
up. Wien quite dry they are collected and put 
in heaps to bum ; this thorough stirring destroys 
all the seedling surface weeds, and renders the 
work of destroying succeeding crops a light 
matter, as with a well pulverised surface hoeing 
with draw hoes is performed at a trifling cost 
per acre, and when the bushes or trees are wide 
enough apart, the horse hoe and harrow are 
used instead of manual labour. 

G008EBERRY CATERPILLAR. —A sharp look 
out must now be kept for Gooseberry caterpillars, 
for if allowed to get established, they not only 
spoil the crop, but the bushes as well. In this 
locality acres of bushes divested of foliage last 
year are looking very weakly, and are bearing 
very light crops, while those carefully cleared of 
caterpillars are heavily cropped. There are many 
remedies tor this pest, and many ways oi ap¬ 
plying them, but the general plan is to dust 
powdered hellebore on the bushes when the first 
signs of caterpillar appear. The hellebore kills 
all it touches, and if followed up a few times, 
will usually keep the bushes quite clean. Tin 
canisters with holes made in them, like flour- 
dredgers, ate employed for dusting the trees, and 
as the caterpillars usually start from the centre, 
and clear the leaves off the tips of the shoots, it 
is necessary to lift up the outer branches and 
carefully inspect the centre of the bushes, for 
they multiply so rapidly that, if allowed to re¬ 
main many days undisturbed, their destruction 
is almost hopeless. 

Grafted trees.—A ll kinds of grafted trees 
will now need frequent inspection, as heavy 
showers loosen the clay coverings, and if not 
replaced quickly, the drying intervals between 
the showers act most injuriously on the graft, 
and that, too, at the most critical stage of its 
existence. Any coverings that have given way- 
must therefore be replaced at once, and those 
that are cracked must have some fresh clay 
worked into the fissures, as the more thoroughly 
air is excluded, the more certain will be the 
success of the grafts. 

Recently planted trees must be kept 
firmly staked and tied to prevent wind-waving, 
for as the leaf gets heavy, the strain will be even 
greater than it now is. See that they do not get 
chafed; put plenty of soft material round the 
stems before tying, as unless the top is kept 
steady, the young freshly formed rootlets get 
broken, and the tree thereby considerably 
checked. Look to top-dressings; see that tiiey 
are not only ample, but also frequently stirred. 
In the case of old orchards on Grass, this is a 
good time to remove Nettles, by forking them 
up by the root, also Docks, Thistles, and other 
coarse growing weeds. Keep an extra supply 
of sheep grazing under the trees now, as in 
addition to the abundance of Grass there is 
usually green garden crops that can be spread 
in orchards to supplement their food. All kinds 
of the Brassica tribe, such as Cabbage stalks, 
winter greens, Ac., when running to seed are far 
better put into the orchard for the sheep than 
on the rubbish heap, a3 the little they leave of 
the hard stalks can be raked up and burned 
when dry. The season for gathering fruits will 
soon set in. About here vast quantities of 
Gooseberries are picked green, and those who 
get them forward enough for the Whitsuntide 
market usually get a high price for them. See 
to the stock of baskets, packing paper, labels, 
sticks, Ac., so that when required, no delays may 
arise. Many of these can be prepared on wet 
days when outdoor labour is at a standstill, and 
the profits of fruit growing demand that 
economy of time as well as of other resources be 
practised if the cultivator would live by his 
labour. J. G. 

Maidrtone. 


VEGETABLES: 


TOMATOES ON WALLS AND FENCER. 
Tiie Tomato is very easily grown, and adapts it¬ 
self to almost any position, so long as it gets 
plenty of sunlight, and in town and suburban 
gardens, where the area is limited, I do not 
know of anything that comes in so well for cover¬ 
ing the low partition walls as the Tomato. It 
does not require a large quantity of soil to root 
in, neither need it be highly manured ; in fact, a 
firm, rather poor soil, induces early fertility, 
which is the great thing to aim at in Tomato 


culture. There is no difficulty in getting Toms, 
toes to grow, or even to fruit freely; but my ow; 
observation leads me to the conclusion that the 
difficulty lies in ripening the crop. Now w t 
cannot improve or lengthen our too brief 
summers, and the only way to overcome tk 
difficulty is to get the plants as far advanced as 
possible before planting. It is not safe to plant 
before May, but we can get up good strong 
plants showing fruit, and thereby get a good 
start. I may also mention that many amat«m 
who have small greenhouses, or even glass 
covered porches or verandahs, may get a good 
supply of Tomatoes by having three ot four 
plants in large pots and training them on the 
walls or trellises, for under any kind of glass 
covering the Tomato seldom is affected tv 
disease of any kind, and anyone having a (mm 
or pit that they want to use profitably after the 
bedding plants arc cleared out, cannot do better 
than plant one or two Tomatoes, and let then 
grow in the same manner as encumbers, plaricg 
some old l’ea sticks in the soil to elevate the 
plants near the glass, and to keep the fruit dew 
of the soil. When planted against walls the 
best way of training is to get some coarse wire 
netting, and fasten it firmly to the wall, and te 
this the shoots can be tied as they extend it 
growth. 

The best results from Tomatoes on wait, 
boarded fences, Ac., that I have yet seen bn 
been from plants grown on to a good size u 
6-inch pots until the middle of May, and ths 
partly plunged in the soil and allowing themv 
root through the bottoms of the pots, training 
them up to single stems until they shows: 
bloom, when the laterals may be allowed to pm 
until they also shew bunches of flowers, wiffl 
all must be stopped at one joint beyond tit 
flower, and all superfluous growth most t* 
kept cut closely off. As soon as a good crop o? 
fruit is set and swelling, the top of the pot r: 
be moulded over with some moderately rid ' 
compost, into which the plants will soon sen; z 
mass of feeding rootlets. In dry weather i | 
liberal supply of water, with alternate applica¬ 
tions of liquid manure, must be given, and a is 
crop of fruit will be the result. There if 
many varieties of Tomato in cultivation, bit 
Hathaway's Excelsior, Vick's Criterion, Tie 
Trophy, and Carter's Grape Shot are among tk 
best. The small fruited varieties known as 
Grape Tomatoes are especially liked for sahds, 
and the ripe fruit are used in a variety of ways. 
The green immature fruit that, fails to ripen, 
makes one of the most delicious of jams. So 
time should be lost in getting strong plants pit 
out in every sunny nook or corner where tote 
heat can be utilised for their growth. 

Sealitld, Gosporl. J. Gboom, 

Lettuces for salad in spring-L 5 

month of March of the present year has given 
another striking proof of how much more ckl* 
springs are to be dreaded than our winters, fcr 
up to the first week in March vegetation was a- 
tremely active, and we were anticipating 
early spring, but a violent gale of frosty, biticc 
wind cut off almost every green leaf in the 
vegetable garden, and materials for making 1 
salad were practically non-procnrable. Lettuce-, 
except where grown under glass, were cop 
pletely withered up; but having sown a quantity 
under glass, I have lately been using them f® 
mixed salads, cut off from the seed bed like o T J 
does Mustard and Cress, and most excellent in¬ 
stitutes for blanched Lettuces these young succo- 

lent leaves make, being altogether superior to tlx 

outdoor plants that have been rendered hard aw 
tough by the cold,ungenial winds, and drj,parch¬ 
ing air, and I would strongly advise anyoneMjj 
a cool glasshouse to try boxes of Lettuce $eeu 
sown with the Mustard and Cress in spring, aro¬ 
used in just the same way—viz., sow moderately 
thick, keep moist until the seed germicxte-S 
when less water must be given, but do not k. 
the soil get dry, and as soon as the plants ans 
2 or 3 inches high they are fit for use, and wit 
a sharp knife cut off the plants as required cJotf I 
to the soil. An ordinary herring box will supply 
enough for several salads, and by sowing a he* 
once a week a daily supply will be insured. 1 J* 
variety I find best for this purpose is the wp a 
Paris Cos, and as mixed salading is usually !I j 
great request during the spring months, I ft* 
sure that many will find this method of supp ¬ 
ing one of the best materials for forming then 
well worthy of a trial; at least, I mean tnaocr 


May 5, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


ill 


in future when the supply of full-grown 
ittuces runs short.—J. Groom, Scajield, Gos- 
rt. 

Veitch's Dwarf Curled Borecole.— 
lis produces the latest supply of sprouts of any 
ihe Brassica tribe that we grow. This season 
ibbage Sprouts, Brussels Sprouts, and most 
her kinds of winter greens ran up to flower 
jly; most of them were in bloom bythebegin- 
ng of April, but Veitch's Late Curled continued 
. yield excellent sprouts throughout April. It 
also one of the hardiest, and, being dwarf, 
capes injury when tall-growing varieties like 
ie Cottager’s Kale are cut up by violent gales 
wind. This season, owing to the plentiful 
ipply of Broccoli, and spring Cabbages coming 
i early, the demand for sprouts has not been so 
reat as usual; but, even for the sake of va- 
ety, it is well to have abundance of this useful 
igetable. Sow the seed now, and plant out 
-tween rows of Potatoes; stir the soil well after 
ic Potatoes are lifted, and this Kale will prove 
reliable winter and spring crop.—J. G. L. 
American Wonder Pea.— This is a valu- 
ble variety either forced or out-of-doors. It is 
irlier and more prolific than any kind with 
inch I am acquainted. 1 have at the present 
me fifty pots of it literally covered with pods 
l different stages, and I hope to commence my 
rat gathering in the course of a few days. They 
■ere sown on February 8, and were under cool 
eatment until they had fairly started ; then 
rey were subjected to gentle forcing, and the 
:sult is most satisfactory. When better known 
its variety cannot fail to be a favourite.— 
. C. C. 

Brussels Sprouts.—This invaluable win- 
er vegetable can hardly be grown too strongly 
r too well; no matter how long the stalks may 
e, they are (if of a good strain) sure to be 
overed with firm little sprouts. For the early 
.’inter supply wo usually sow a pinch of seed 
nder glass in January, prick the young plants ont 
nder temporary glass coverings in February, 
nd plant in the open air in April on deeply cul- 
ivated land in rows 3 feet apart and 3 feet 
sunder in the row. We keep the soil stirred, 
nd have stalks yielding an unlimited supply in 
tctober. We rely on English saved seed, and 
ind the produce quite equal to the finest im- 
wrted strains with which we have yet met.— 
I. G. L. 

Mulching newly planted Asparagus 

)6d8 — I have for many years mulched newly 
ilanted Asparagus beds, and I am satisfied that 
he plan is a good one. Towards the end of May 
when the plants have started well into growth 
ind the ground is dry, I tread all the surface over 
with the feet between the plants, and after the 
first storm of rain in June I apply the mulching. 
If I have some half-rotten manure to spare I use 
that in preference to anything else, laying it on 
between the plants about 2 inches thick. If I 
have no manure I use short grass from the lawn, 
scattering it over the surface rather thickly. As 
soon as the first lot gets at all withered up by 
the sun another lot is put on. This treatment 
is continued until the end of July, when the 
plants will have got sufficient hold of the soil to 
take care of themselves.—J. C. C. 

Johnston's St. Martin’s Rhubarb — 

This is now excellent in open-air beds, and it is 
also one of the best of sorts for forcing, as it pro¬ 
duces large numbers of medium-sized stalks, 
which, whether forced or in the open air, are 
always crisp and succnlent. We have had this 
variety in excellent condition both earlier and 
later than most others. The large kinds so 
popular for market are hard and stringy com¬ 
paratively early in the season, whilst this sort 
keeps sending up fresh stalks as tender as those 
of the first crop. Rhubarb is of such easy culture 
that it frequently gets neglected. In order to 
yield a continuous supply of tender shoots, it 
mnst have an unlimited supply of rich, soluble 
food within reach of its large, fleshy roots. We 
give it annually a heavy dressing of manure 
from the cow yard, and liquid manure as often 
as it can be spared. I find that a few crowns 
liberally treated are more satisfactory than 
double the quantity half starved. The more 
rapid the growth, tho better the Rhubarb will 
When plants with strong crowns for early 
forcing are required, they should not be gathered 
■tom late the preceding season; on tho contrary, 
hey should be allowed to perfect their foliage, 
go to rest as early as possible, in order thai 


Co. 


the crowns may be fully developed and ready to 
start immediately heat is applied to them. We 
lift the crowns with large balls of earth attached 
to them, plant them in warm, dark bouses or 
sheds, and when done with they are planted out 
until required again.—J. G. L. 

9335.—Qruba in Onions. —The larvaj of 
the Onion fly do much damago to the Onion 
crops on light soils, but less often on those of a 
stiffer nature. It is rather difficult to contend 
with, as the expense of handpicking is too great, 
and no generally effectual remedy has yet been 
discovered, although in some places the remedies 
I have already given in Gardening Illus¬ 
trated are successfully used to a great extent. 
As, however, prevention is better than cure, it is 
a good plan to sow Onions on different ground 
each year. When in large crops. Onions should 
only be grown once in three years, and should 
follow Turnips or other cruciferous plants. On 
small plots the acid remedy (before given) is 
good aDd effectual one. All infested plants 
should be pulled up and immediately burnt. 
This fly deposit- it eggs on the leaves of the 
Onion, and from these issue little conical, 
smooth, white maggots. When hatched, the 
larvse descend to the bulb of the plant, and feed 
upon its substance till it. is quite soft and worth¬ 
less.— Celer et Audax. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


r that| ph 

gle 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

9619.—Forming flower beds.—Nothing 
can be simpler or easier than forming a circular 
bed. First select the centre and drive into the 
spot a small round stick, then get a piece of 
string and tie the ends together, so that when 
passed over the stick, the other loop or end 
shall be exactly one-half the length of the 
diameter of the bed, as thus: If the bed is to 
be 8 feet in width, the string must be just 4 feet 
long. Into the loop farthest from the centre put 
a small pointed stick, and then keeping it firmly 
upright walk backwards round the centre stick 
keeping the string tight, and at the same time 
making with the pointed stick a mark on the 
Grass or ground. In this simple way a perfect 
circle is formed. It is but to shorten the string 
or lengthen it to have a bed smaller or larger. 
Half-moon beds should be formed by next 
using a string of so much more length 
to make a circle that will leave, say, 3 feet 
of turf or walk between that and the centre 
bed. The outer circle will mark the inner sides 
of the half moons. Now as the outer margin of 
an 8-foot bed shows a circumference of 24 feet, 
a circle 3 feet wider from the centre will show 
a circumference of 42 feet. That circumference 
will therefore give four half moon beds 8 feet 
long each, and intervals of 2k feet between each 
one. The half moons should be 4 feet wide in 
the centre, and having fixed a stick, that much 
beyond the outer circle in each case, a bold 
sweep drawn from the back stick to the points 
of the beds will in each case accurately give the 
half moons. The centre bed might well be 
filled with a carpet of Mignonette, into which 
were planted Zinnias and Asters, and the other 
beds would look gay with scarlet Tom Thumb 
Nasturtium, Indian Pinks, mixed, Saponaria 
calabrica, pink; and blue Nemophila. Into these 
may be dibbled Stocks and Annual Chrysan¬ 
themums, all raised from seed.—A. D. 

9627—Red spider. — The cause of red 
spider is a dry, arid atmosphere, and to keep 
these pests down, the plentiful application of 
clean cold water is the best means. Soft water, 
in which a litt le sulphur soap has been dissolved, 
is a very good remedy. Where they have a firm 
hold, however, one of the following should be 
tried : Speed’s, Simpson’s, Fowler’s, and other 
of the insecticides, Hughes’s fir tree oil included, 
sold by nurserymen and seedsmen, are effectual if 
applied as the makers direct. Sulphur applied 
to hot-water pipes, makes a good clearance in a 
short time. Mix flowers of sulphur with twice 
its bulk of clay, and make this into a thin paint 
with water. Paint the pipes with this and make 
them hot, but the water should not boil. As, 
however, this has been found to injure some 
plants, the following plan has been adopted with 
much success : Boil ordinary stock bricks in a 
copper for an hour and remove to the house at 
once. Then sprinkle them with flowers of sul¬ 
phur, placing a slate or piece of glass a short 


distance above each brick to prevent the fumes 
from injuring the foliage immediately above 
the bricks. If a damp atmosphere be kept 
afterwards, the spider will not be again trouble¬ 
some. Flowers of sulphur may also be dusted 
on the leaves as soon as the spider appears. 
Sulphur should not be applied in any form to 
tender plants. I would refer “ Constant Header ” 
to an article in The Garden of April 21, on red 
spider, which may be of interest and of use to 
him.— Celer et Audax. 

9646.—Woodlice.— These can be poisoned 
like cockroaches, or trapped like earwigs. A 
bucket of hot water is in most cases necessary to 
put them in when the traps are emptied. Jainesa 
phosphor paste is for cockroaches an excellent, 
remedy; spread on slices of bread or mixed with 
honey, the insects take it readily, as will also 
mice, and two or three applications are enough 
to clean a house. Cook Parsnip or Beetroot in 
a solution of arsenic, and place in the haunts of 
the woodlice. They will eat greadily, and soon 
all be killed. Into some small pots put cold 
boiled Potatoes, and cover with Moss. Examine 
night and morning, and transfer the woodlice 
to a bucket of hot water. The Potatoes will last 
for some time, and the traps are about the best 
for the purpose. Wherever toads and tomtita 
can be induced to stay in the houses, or robins 
build nests, woodlice soon become scarce, and 
therefore both toads and robins should be 
encouraged, for if seen to early enough, woodlice 
never become very injurious.— Celer et Audax. 

9622.—Storing bulbs. —All such bulbs as 
Daffodils, Jonquils, and Crocuses will keep far 
better in the soil than out of it, and if it is im¬ 
perative they should be lifted now, it will be 
better to lay them in in any out-of-the-way corner 
for the summer than to dry them off. Still, if 
the latter course must be adopted, dry them off 
gradually in the shade and store in paper bags 
in a cool place till the autumn.—D. 

- Tulips, Hyacinths, Crocuses, Narcissi, 

and most bulbous-rooted plants, may be taken 
up us soon as the foliage decays, and be stored 
away in some dry, cool place until the latter end 
of October, which is the time to plant them 
again, but Daffodils must be re-set immediately 
if transplanted. If the ground is not required 
for other purposes, all spring-flowering bulbs are 
best in the soil all the year through, giving a 
top-dressing of manure in early winter.—J. C., 
By fleet. 

9636. — Greenhouse floors. — Fireclay 
tiles laid upon Portland cement make a good 
pathway if the ground upon which they are laid 
has been properly levelled and beaten down firm. 
The cement prevents worms from making their 
way up betwixt the joints. Nothing, however, 
makes a better and cleaner floor than Portland 
cement alone, if the workman who lays it under¬ 
stands his business.—P. R. 

9636.— Climber under trees.— There is 
nothing in any way so good as Ivy, flowering 
climbers requiring a large amount of light. The 
kind called Eegneriana is the fastest growing 
one, and if the soil is well stirred and manured 
before planting, will quickly cover the trellis.— 
J. C. B. 

- Judging from wlmt ho says, I should think 

Cobrea scandens, with large purplish flowers, would Buit 
“ E. W. C.” Sow in a moderate heat in March and plant 
out in May. Two or three plants of this climber will 
soon cover a trellis or fence. Plants can no doubt bo 
bought cheaply, as it is too late now to sow seed for this 
year.—A. H. Davts, Carehalton. 

9611.— Marechal Niel Rose.— In this case no doubt 
the Rose is but showing tho effects of the sharp frosto 
and bitterly cold wiuds of last month which injured Koses 
even under glass. At the same time, ns the plunt baa 
spread to a breadth of 20 feet, no doubt It would be all 
the better for greatly-increased r^ot space and additional 
feeding.—D. 

6627.— Red spider.— “Constant Reader” had better 
syringe his Vines, Peaches, and Nectarines with a strong 
solution of QiBhurst compound, and give plenty of air.— 
A. H. Davis, Carshallon. 

9597.—Peat Moss litter.—This is a great advantage 
in the stable, and is cheaper than straw. It is also good 
as a manure after being in the stable, and very clean for 
all purposes.—E. W. 


Seeds germinating. — Stcanitfa. — Seeds should 
always be kept in the shade until germination takes 
place. We have no idea how long the seeds will take to 
germinate, as you did not even state what kinds they were. 
Some seeds germinate in a week, and others take a 
year. 

Index to Vol. IV. “ Gardening Illustrated."— 
77. IF.—This can be had through any bookseller, price 
Id., or from the office, post free, lid. 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


112 


P- A .—Try Mr. W. Thompson, Tavern Street, Ipswich 

- R. C.— The “Rose Amateurs’ Guide,” by Thomas 

Rivers, Sawbridgeworth, Herts.- F. L. O .—There is no 

work in French of the kind you speak of.- Weg.— We 

should advise you to spread it on the garden, and dig it 
in. It is of little or no value. 

A. B —The water is perfectly safe for plants, but it 
should not be given cold to plants in rooms or green- 

Jionses. It should be made milk w r arm.- Colin Sinclair. 

—See answer to A. T. Langton, under the heading black 
butt, in Gardening, April 28. 

Names of plants —A. Durant.—Send when fronds 

have spores on them- Beta. —4, Euonymus radicans 

variegata ; 5, Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variega- 

tum. Others next week.- Spun. — Pet&sltes vulgaris 

(Butterburr).- G. A. N.— Narcissus incomparabilis 

fl. pl. (Orange Phoenix).- T. Lepard. — Farfugium 

grande. V.— Jack-in-the-Green Polyanthus (not un¬ 
common). - R. II. —Double yellow is Narcissus Tele- 

monius plenus, the other is N. incomparabilis fL-pl., 

called Orange Phoenix.- T. (?.—Wistaria sinensis.- 

K. B.— Diplacus glutinosus.- Vemia.— We cannot 

name such scraps as those sent.- A New Subscriber.— 

From your description of the Begonia we should say it 
w'»s B. Martiana, but we cannot, of course, be certain 
without seeing flowers and leaves. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents. —All communica¬ 
tions for insertion should be clearly and concisely written 
on one side of th* paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the Publisher. The name 
and address of the sender is required , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be tised in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the query 
ansxcered. When more than one- query is sent each mould 
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of 
Gardening goinji to press a considerable time before the 
day of publication, it is not. possible to insert queries and 
communications the icfek they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

9670.— Heating a greenhouse.— My greenhouse is 
14 feet long, 7 feet wide, built over an outhouse, in which 
is a washhouse boiler, the chimney from which passes 
straight up through the greenhouse. To use this for 
heating th* 1 greenhouse I have had the boiler rebuilt with 
a fire-hole 18 inches wide, 2 feet long. In the side of the 
chimney. 18 inches above the floor of the greenhouse, I 
put a damper, and just below the damper a hole 1 foot 
square is made, and from this a flue is carried round the 
house entering the chimney again above the damper. It 
will thus be seen that the smoke and heat must traverse 
round this flue when the damper is in before it can pass 
up the chimney. The flue is of 9-inch drain-pipes moBt 
of the distance, but is of brick on edge the .irst 6 feet 
after leaving the chimney, with ordinary house tiles for a 
covering. I find it draws well, but the top tiles and top 
of pipes soon get very hot, while the bricks seem scarcely 
to heat at all, and it quickly cools down if the fire is not 
well kept up. I should like to have an opinion on this 
arrangement from someone who understands it, and 
suggestions for its improvement. I should also like to 
know’ if the bottom of the brick portion of flue is likely 
to become sufficiently hot to endanger the safety of the 
floor. It is laid directly on the boards, is about 3 inches 
thick, composed of stone and brickbats filled in with 
mortar, and a coat of mortar over all to level up.—A. P. 


9075 — Ante In garden.—Can anyone tell me how to 
get rid of ants ? Ihey swarm in all my sunny borders, 
and as I do not know what ants’ nests are like, I cannot 
look for them. I have tried treacle and ditty pots, as 
advised in Gardening, but to no effect Arsenic was 
recommended, but I cannot procure any. Should f**el 
greatly obliged for any advice, also about wireworms and 
slugs, of which I have an unpleasant number. Please do 
not recommend anything that will kill plants, as my 
garden is so very full.—A. H., St. John's Wood. 

9676. — Plants for rooms. — I consume a great 
amount of gas on the ground floor, and cannot get any 
plants to bloom in the upper rooms excepting Hyacinths 
and other bulbs, which have always done well. Can any 
reader recommend any summer blooming plants that will l 
succeed under the circumstances? I ani thinking of try¬ 
ing some of the Lily tribe, also some Cacti and Begonias, 
but would like some advice on the subject.— Maharg. 

9677. —Primroses aod Polyanthuses.— Last year 
I had some Polyanthuses and Primroses, large roots, that 
bloomed well. This year they will do nothing in the same 
place, and the roots appeal- bare. On some I put horse 
manure, and the roots are gone, except near the surface. 
It is evident I ani treating them wrong. Will someone 
advise? I like to see them in large clumps or large 
roots.—W. H. 

9678. —Eucharis not flowering.-Can any reader 
tell me how to flower the Eucharis? I have had a plant 
several years, but have failed in obtaining a single bloom. 
It has been kept growing throughout the whole year, and 
it has been allowed to rest through the winter. It is 
kept in a Cucumber pit in which the temperature is never 
below 60? in the winter.—M ayfly. 

9679. —Geraniums not blooming.—Last year my 
Geraniums, which were of good Boris, scarcely yielded 
any bloom after being planted out. They made plenty of 
new growth and foliage, but no bloom. The soil is rather 
light, but fairly good, and the garden faces south-west. 
Can anyone tell me the cause of their not blooming, and 
how I may obtain better results this year ?- Catty. 

9680. —Fuchsia fulgens.—What is the cause of this 
plant shedding all its leaves and apparently dying down 
after having kept fresh and green all winter? I noticed 
it looking sickly three weeks since, so shook it out of the 
old soil and potted it in fresh. It has since died down. 
It is in a greenhouse that has been kept at 40° to SO' 1 all 
winter. What should I do with it?—C atty. 

9681. —Strelitzia angusta.—What treatment ought 
seed of the above to receive ? It was brought me by a 
friend from the Cape. It has been sown several weeks 
in a seed-pan and placed in a greenhouse, temperature 
65®, plunged in Cocoa fibre. There is no sign of germi¬ 
nation yet. Should the seeds be first steeped in warm 
water?—E. D. T. 

9682. —Wistarla not flowering'.—Will anyone tell 
me the reason why a very fine Wistaria which grows up 
the front of my house has almost ceased to flower? It is 
about fifteen years old or more. I have also a large Lilac 
tree which has never to my knowledge flowered. The 
Wistaria has been well manured for the last two years.— 
A. H., St John's Wood. 

9683. —Bishop wort.—Is there any means by which 
Bishop wort can be eradicated except trenching and 
picking out the roots ? In an evil hour it appeared in my 
garden, and though there it can be kept at bay it has 
spread into the lawn and shrubberies, and Is destroying 
the Grass, and becoming a great eyesore. Will any top¬ 
dressing destroy it?— Douglas. 


[May 5, 1663 


or Yew, for a dry position between a house and a »4 
covered with Ivy, but which is exposed to a t 
draught during the south-west gales in autumn and ra 
ter. What pretty shrub would be most likely to stand ti?* 
condition of drought and exposure to a current ? Then 
are no trees.—J. W. T. 

9692. —Beetles in greenhouse.-A beetle, m 
dently one of the weevils or curculio, is attacking Ros& 
Plums, Cherries, Ac., in a large, cool greenhouse. Th^ 
only come out at night. Can anyone suggest a ^ 
getting rid of them ? I know paraffin and water hr 
them but this may be too strong for the fruit trees. - 
T. B. S. 

9693. —Fern fronds turning brown.—I parrim?: 
an Adiautum graclllimmn Fern a few weeks since, 
although it seems to be thriving well so far as growth a 
concerned, yet the fronds have nearly all turned bron^ 
Will seme reader state the cause and recommend score 1 
—Beginner. 

9W>4.—Pampas Grass.—What treatment should tin 
receive in autumn ? Should it be cut down or left »>! 
winter as a protection for the plants? I amundeni- 
impression of having seen a large plant of it early !wi 
summer at Kew with all the old dead grass stall 00 k.- 
K. B. 

9695 —Ridge Cucumbers —Having a small bed a 
my garden to spare under a wall facing south, 1 u> 
grow a few Ridge Cucumbers on it How should I pre 
pare the bed, and how close together may I put tb 
plants, as I wish to make the most of a limited spacc - 
ltcumis. 

9690. —Forming a maze.—Having a piece of land u 
the back of my nouse not required for any purp*^ 

I wish to plant on it a mare something after the way of 1 
the one at Hampton Court. Will someone klndlv tells* 
where a ground plan could be obtained, or an iilustrxh^ 
of a good maze ?— San Runo, Italy. 

9697. —Pyracanthas falliDg —I have two Pyre*? 
tlias planted against a south wall in ordinary soil, te 
rather stony. They have been there for three years, ar- 
are getting smaller each year. What can I do with then 
-W. H. J. 

9698. —Thunbergiae in baskets.—I have a qnu 
tity of Tbunbergias, which 1 propose planting in 44 -Ik 1 - 
pots to be inserted in baskets for suspending out-of-o^n 
will someone kindly say how many should be placed 3 
each pot?— Devonian. 

9699. —Growing Ferns.—Can I grow Ferns inej a 

back garden, which faces north. I purpose building 1 
glasshouse for them. Will it be n*cessary to put in fc-< 1 
water pipes’ The garden Is walled on three aides, 13 ; I 
gets no sun.—A Lover of Ferns. ii 

9700 —Hyacinths dropping their buda-Igr-* u 
a few Hyacinths on a grave, and every spring lose sw¬ 
ot them. When the buds are well formed they drop 4 I ; 
as if cut with a knife. Will someone kindly tell me lb 
cause and, if possible, the remedy ?—M. C., York. 

9701.—Hoyaa—Should Hoyas be kept moist and e ! 
the sun ? I brought two from Ramsgate, where they tes P 
in a house facing the sea, and they did well, but fare 2 
a greenhouse, due east, they are looking miserable.- 
VERNIA. 

9702 —Culture of Gordeniaa—I wish to 
Gardenias to supply an abundance of blooms for butte 
holes. I have greenhouse, vinery, and pita heated by 
hot-water, but no plant stove. I should be glad to too* 
the best mode of culture.— E. C. H. 


9671. —Covering Tulips —I am obliged to“D.” 
for his answer to my query ; and might l ask him further 
does he not cover in any way until just before the blooms 
1 ‘re ready to open? As a matter of fact, I have not 
covered at all up to date, as I was under the impression 
that no amount of frost could kill a Tulip, as I have seen 
bulbs alive that had been exposed on top of a bed 
throughout a whole winter. A few of my own have part 
withered leaves, due to sudden strong sunshine after 
frosty nights, but my present anxiety is that the growing 
stems may not be snapped off or broken down by wind, 
or the young blooms spoilt by hail should it fall. Will 
“ !*•" kindly give his opinion of glass lights over Tulip 
bods, as spoken of in Douglas’s “ Florists’ Flowers ? ” He 
is right as to “ if done at all, it is best done well.” It is 
that well and best which I want to know about.—J. C. 

9672. —Gloire de Dijon Roses.—I have a good 
strong plant of Gloire de Dijon Rose which started vigo¬ 
rously into bud in February, but made very slow progress 
during the month of March, which w as very- cold. It is 
planted out in a cool lean-to greenhouse ventilated from 
the top. The buds are neither progressing nor expanding 
properly, many of the leaves are withered, and others are 
falling from the flower stalk. In February I applied on 
the surface of the ground Clay's fertiliser, watered regu¬ 
larly, and syringed almost daily. If any of my fellow 
readers of Gardening can help me to bring my plant 
into vigorous health again, I shall feel obliged. The plant 
is full of buds—every new shoot shows bloom.— South 
Shields. 

9673. —Dracaena leaves turning-brown.—I have 
a large Dracsena which, in spite of every care and atten¬ 
tion, insists on withering just at the tips of the leaves as 
s«on as they put forth. The plant was re-potted last year, 
and has been in a moderately-heated greenhouse properly 
tended, but still the ends of the leaves shrivel. At last 
the plant was moved, as It was thought the greenhouse 
might be too hot a temperature,and it does now very well 
in an airy room, the leaves occasionally sponged, and the 
plant kept from draught and in a window; but still the 
leaves continue to wither at their tips, though they look 
healthy enough in other respects. I should be glad to 
learn what may be the reason.—W. A. P. 

9674. —Fruit trees not bearing.—I have half a 
dozen Plum treeB, including Victoria, Gage, Golden Drop, 
Jefferson, Ac., and though they have been planted three 
years and are nice-sized trees, they have never yet borne 
a solitary bloom. My garden is outside the town ; soil 
new, from pasture, but not very deep, with clay subsoil. 
They have grown freely. Three are on the wall, and three 
in the open garden. Apples. Pears, and Cherries bloom 
more or less outside, and Peach and Vine well inside. 
How can I get them to fruit ?—.T. B. 

Digitized by GOUglC 


9684. — Peach trees degenerating.— I have some 
Peach trees which, for the last two or three seasons, have 
very much degenerated ; they are trained against a south 
wall, and every autumn receive a large amount of 
manure. Is it probable that the roots have been too 
much disturbed by digging and planting flowers in the 
border ?—Dom inoes. 

9685. —Bulbs in flower beds.—I have some flower 
beds at present filled with Crocuses, Hyacinths, and 
Tulips, and would like soon to put in annuals and bed¬ 
ding plants for summer. Can anyone tell me whether 
it is better t© lift the bulbs or to leave them in th*> ground 
till next spring, and, if the latter, can the soil be pro¬ 
perly manured without injuring them ?— Greta. 

9686. —Forcing A sparagus.—I have a hotbed, with 
glass, no pipes, 6 feet by 6 feet. How many three years' 
old Asparagus roots can I put into this space for forcing ? 
Can I place in it fifty plants, and is there any objection 
to the roots touching? I find twenty-five plants give 
very small dishes. Should air be admitted to the frame 
and the plants be frequently watered ?—Zeta. 

9687. — Pelargonium blooms discoloured.—In 
one of my houses the blooms of Pelargoniums show ou 
some of the petals a discoloration as if it were damp. 
The house is perfectly dry, well ventilated, and has a 
very dry concrete floor. The petals show this discolora¬ 
tion and the leaves lose their glossiness. Can anyone 
suggest a cause and remedy for this?—J. SMITH. 

9688. —Culture of Tuberoses.— Can Tuberoses be 
grown to perfection in an ordinary greenhouse, vinery, 
or pit heated with hot water ? When is the best time 
to purchase the bulbs, and how should they be managed 
to ensure plentiful and flue b’ooms? Is there more than 
one variety, if so, which is the best for my purpose ? I 
have no plant stove.—K. C. H. 

9689. — Fumigating Peaches while in bloom. 
Having some Peach trees in a cool house in which are 
also some miscellaneous plants, I fumigated them to kill 
green-fly just when the first bloom on the Peaches were 
open. They failed to Bet. A few days later other blooms 
set well, but of course the crop is now thin. What was 
the cause of the first blooms failing?—H. G. V. 

9690. —Mignonette failing —I am very fond of 
Mignonette, but cannot grow it successfully. Suddenly 
the leaves of the plants turn a reddish brown and droop, 
and are easily pulled up; the roots are completely 
skinned, and nothing but the woody fibre left. Is it a 
disease or insects ? Calceolarias droop in a similar way, 
but I have not examined their roots.—F. L. O. 

9691. —Evergreen for a bleak situation.—I want 
an evergreen shrub, suchivsCupresgusLawsoplana, Roily, 


9703. — Grubs on Pear trees. — In Gardor; 
April 21, train oil is recommended for scale on Petr 
trees. What shall I do to mine, which are now in fnQ 
bloom, and are being eaten through the bark by what I 
suppose to be a grub?-J. Town ley. 

9704. —Flowers for bees. — What are the be« 
flowers to grow for bees ? They seem to pillage <he flowers 
of the Artillery plant very much. Are they good ft 
them ?—ABEILLE, Halesowen. 

9705. —Daphnes.—I have a small lied of Daphos, 
which look very sickly. How should I treat them IShooU 
they be increased by layers or cuttings ? I shall be mod 
obliged for advice respecting them.—C. R. M. 

9706. —Best Japanese Chrysanthemums.-^ 
some reader give the names of six or eight fine UsseW 
Japanese Chrysanthemums? I particularly want tbow 
with long twisted florets and good bright colours.—J. K 

9707. —Dahlias.— How can I keep my stock of Dablit 1 , 
how can I get pot roots, and how keep them throngl 
the winter? I have a good stock, and do not wish to 
lose them next winter.—H appy. 

9708. —Stain from Walnut shoots.—I shall l* 
much obliged to anyone who will tell me how to make & 
stain from Walnut shoots strong enough to colour cal 
gut for fishing.— M. S. M. 

9709. —Grass as manure.—By what method can 
the cuttings from a lawn be converted into manure 
Would soot or guano mixed with it be of any good, if so, 
in what proportions ?—P. V. M. 

ena-Maklngr a Fernery.—I have a small bad 
bedroom which is used as a lumber room, which new 

its the sun. Can this be made into a Fern house, acd 

ow? There is no fireplace.—P. A. C. 

9711. —Tree Ferns.—I shall be obliged for some iti' 
formation on glowing Tree Ferns ; my plants are con 
stantly throwing up ne* fronds, but then the outer on* 
die off.— Immediate. 

9712. —A nts and plants.-Do ants eat the leaves of 
Ferns ? Although I have tried lime, Potatoes, and bollm? 
water, they come again and again. Cau anyone suggtf* 
anything else to destroy them ? - Novice. 

9713. —Wistaria and moths —Can anyone tell me 
if the often-heard asset tion is true that the moth, which 
is so destructive to woollen fabrics, is attracted to » 
house by Wistarias growing up its walls ? —J. S. G. 

9714. —Adiantum farleyense.— Does it hurt the 

fronds of a farleyense Fern to lyringe them occa¬ 
sionally ? The leaves die off mine Just as they get Urge. 
—Noviof, _ A _ 


Mat 5, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


113 


9715.—The Flm. ( l luma campestria).—Does the Elm 
m bear flowers annually, do the flowers produce seed, 
id will the s ed if sown produce young FaIiiis?— Fn- 
cikek, Lutterworth. 

flTKS.— 8owing Fern seed.— Will auy reader inform 
»e how to Induce seedB of stove and greenhouse Ferns 
) germinate?—E. D. T. 

9717 — Guano for Rose trees — May guano water 
e used for Rose trees instead of manure? If so, how 
lould I make it ?—F. F. 

9718.— Treatment of Cactus.—What is the proper 
reauneot for a Cactus?—PF.RI. 


BEES. 


REASONABLE N0TK3. 

’hf. most interesting period in the bee-keepers’ 
ulendar is now being entered upon. The 
nxieties of early spring (the most critical time 
i the whole year) are over, fruit trees are in 
lossooi, and if the weather continues favour- 
ble to the ingathering of the honey therefrom, 
he population of hives will rapidly increase, 
nd 

Swarming very soon become general. Bees 
lake preparation for swarming by beginning to 
liae new queens a week or so before the swarm 
*aves. Young queens arrive at maturity in 
om twelve to seventeen days from the egg, so 
lat when the queen grubs are sealed over, the 
varm prepares to leave the hive, the queen 
itching out eight days after being sealed in. 
hould cold days or rainy weather set in at this 
sriod the queen cells are destroyed, and swarm- 
ig delayed till queen grubs are again sealed, 
:’ten causing a delay of several weeks. The chief 
idications of swarming about to take place are 
le appearance of drones, general restlessness, 
nd crowding of 1 he bees at the entrance of the 
ive; and when on a fine morning very few bees 
re at work, while on the day before all was 
?tivity and crowding, a swarm will be pretty 
3rtain to leave the hive in the course of the 
loraing. There can be no doubt about it when 
ley do swarm ; they poor out of the hive in a 
instant stream, and all is apparently wild con- 
ision, as they wheel about in circles. It is, how- 
?er, soon observed that they are collecting in 
ae spot, on some bush or tree near the hive, 
ithering in a claster, which quickly grows as 
is joined by the rest of the swarm; but should 
■ie queen fail to join them, they will return to 
le hive. Hives and all necessary appliances 
lould be in readiness, that no time may be lost 
fter the bees have clustered, or they may again 
ike wing and be lost. 

Hiving —If the swarm is to occupy a frame- 
ive, the frames should be filled, if possible, 
dth clean empty comb. This enables the queen 
o commence egg laying at once, which is a very 
rcat advantage; or comb foundation, which 
ontains sufficient wax in its projecting walls to 
nable the bees to completely lengthen out the 
ells, may be fixed in the frames, or strips of 
jundation, 1 inch to 2 inches wide, may be 
istened on the under side of the top bars, as 
uides to the bees to work out their combs 
/ithiu each frame; if no guide is given them 
: hey will build across the frames. All these 
aattera should be attended to before swarming 
ime, so as to have all in readiness when a 
warm rises. The swarm should first he hired 
a a straw skep, which is held under it while 
he branch on which it is huDg is smartly 
haken, when the bees lose foothold and fall in 
mass into the skep Before shaking the swarm 
Qto the skep, the frame-hive should be placed 
pon the ground, as near as possible to the clus- 
er, and a cloth spread in front of it, bringing 
ne end of the cloth over the edge of the fioor 
oard of the frame-hive,, and the front raised 
boot 2 inches with a stone, placed upon the 
oor board under the edge of the hive. Then, 
a soon as the bees are shaken into the skep, 
hey should be thrown with a sharp and sudden 
erk on to the sheet in front of the frame-hive, 

• hich they will in a few minutes all enter, 
•hen the hive should be gently carried to 
he stand it is to occupy. They can also 
« hived in the top of the frame-hive by re¬ 
moving three or four frames, and shaking the 
eea out of the skep into the space made by 
k removal of the frames. The day after 
ariog, the number of frames must be reduced 
0 the size of the cluster of bees and the space 
extracted by the division boards. It is good 
olicy to feed swarms for a few days. If the 
urm is to remain in the straw, h^ve, it should- 

Digitized by CjOOQI 


be gently placed upon the ground as soon as 
the bee9 are shaken into it and left for a few 
minutes (with a wedge under its edge) to enable 
the bees to cluster and suspend themselves from 
the roof, when it must be placed upon the 
stand. It is important to always get the 
swarm to its stand as soon as possible ; the old- 
fashioned way is to leave the hive containing 
the swarm on the ground and not to move it to 
the stand till the evening, but where this is 
done, many bees are lost, because shortly after 
a swarm has congregated in its new hive, many 
of the bees fly off to gather in stores, and make 
several journeys before sunset, and thus become 
familiarised with the position of their new home 
and its surroundings. Consequently, next morn¬ 
ing they take wing without noticing that the 
position of the hive has been altered over night, 
and returning from their foraging in the fields 
to the place occupied by their hive the day 
before are lost. Thus the strength of the swarm 
is much reduced. Swarms sometimes settle in 
very awkward places for hiving. Should they 
settle on a thick branch of a tree, the best plan 
is to sweep them as carefully as possible, into a 
skep with a soft brush or goose wing; if 
the queen is swept into the hive the rest 
will soon join her. In some positions the 
only way to get them into the skep is by 
placing it over them and driving them up with 
smoke. The writer has on several occasions taken 
swarms from high np in trees, by very gently 
sawing off the branch on which they were 
gathered and carrying it down to the ground 
with the bees suspended like a huge bunch of 
grapes. When this has to be resorted to, the 
branch with its living load, after having been 
got down, must be sharply shaken, dropping the 
bees in a heap in front of the propped up hive, 
which they will speedily enter with a joyful 
hum. .Should it happen that the queen is not 
shaken into the hiving skep with the swarm, the 
bees become restless, soon leave the new hive, 
and return to where they clustered, when the 
operation of hiving will have to be repeated. It 
should be remembered that despatcli in hiving is 
all-important, as the longer it is delayed the 
more difficult the bees are to handle. Smearing 
the inside of the hive with sugar, treacle, beer 
and other messes, as is sometimes practised, and 
making music (!) with warming-pan and door 
key or tongs and shovel, are alike perfectly useless, 
and may hinder the operator from attending to 
something necessary and important. S. S. G. 

Boxirortli 

Comb foundation.— J. Y.—Try Neighbour & Sons, 
137, High Rolborn, London. 


BIRDS. 

Quails In outdoor aviary. — It is 

sometimes recommended to keep a pair of quails 
in the outdoor aviary, as they are stated to be 
such excellent scavengers, and thus keep the 
ground free from the waste seed, which might 
otherwise encourage mice. Can anyone tell me 
whether a pair of quails so situated would 
interfere with the smaller birds, such as 
canaries, linnets, fee. The small birds are very 
fond of hopping about on the ground and look 
very happy and pretty, and I should not like 
them interfered with. On the other hand if 
harmless I should like the quails, not only for 
their utility as scavengers, but for their own 
intrinsic interest.—H. L. G. 

Japanese nightingale.—I should be glad 
of any information about this bird. I am told lie 
ought to sing well, but perhaps I do not feed 
him properly. I have tried him with Hartz 
mountain bread, also hard-boiled egg, but he 
will not touch either. I always give him 
canary and millet seed, but he scatters it all 
over the cage, so I do not think he likes it.— 
M. A. B. 

Parrakeet plucking ita feathers.— 

K. 31. A— Vour bird has been in a draught and 
caught cold. Give four or five monkey nuts 
daily, and a salt water bath two or three times 
a week. Hemp seed should always be given 
once a week, instead of canary seed.— Walmer 

-This bad habit is generally the result of 

injudicious feeding—giving meat and milk, for 
instance, and is difficult to cure. The best way 
is tostrietly confine the bird to a vegetable diet, 
give a little magnesia for two or three days in 
its drinking water, and allow it full liberty in 
an empty room where it can find amusement and 

e 


employment in whittling a log of wood provided 
for the purpose. Some recommend a collar, such 
as is put on a horse to keep it from nibbling a 
sore place, but this is difficult of adjustment, 
and ratherapttoterrify the bird.—W. T. Greek e, 
F.Z.S. 

Pood for canaries.—” A Reader ” will 
find it best to give only canary seed to the 
canary, occasionally mixing a little rape seed 
with it. Hemp seed is too fattening, and 
becomes unwholesome. A bit of bread now 
and then as a treat is good for it, and sugar is 
no harm. The canary ought to get groundsel 
every second day, and as much of the flower of 
it as possible, with very little of the leaves. 
Being excluded from the light will prevent it 
singing as much as if it were exposed too mucli 
to strong light. The bird should be given u 
bath of tepid water every morning.— Kilkenny 
Kitten. 

Management of parrots —I have failed 
in management of my parrot, and have lost it, 
and having purchased another I am anxious for 
information. Should a parrot have water or any 
liquid ? Is flesh meat injurious or beneficial l 
Should vegetables form part of its food ? Should 
any greens be given to it? What plain rules 
can be given for teaching a parrot to talk ? 
Hints on the general management of parrots 
would be useful to many of your readers, who, 
like myself, have everything to learn on the 
care of caged birds.— Anxious. 

Birds from China—I lave six little 
birds which were brought from China two years 
ago. They are very small brown birds with 
white and black spots about several of them, 
and two have reddish feathers under the tail. 
Two of the number have lost the feathers off 
their heads, and are completely bald, but have 
shown no other signs of moulting since I had 
them. These have been bald more than six 
weeks. Can anyone advise me what food to 
give them, and what the remedy for baldness is? 
I have only hitherto given millet seed. They 
seem very lively and well otherwise, only rough 
in plumage. Can anyone suggest their names ? 
— L M. B. 

Parrots having fits.— I have a grey parrot which 
tails from its perch, draws up both feet iiuite close, opeDs 
its mouth, moves its tongae and breathes heavily. This 
occurs about once a week, five attacks at different inter- 
vats (luring the day. Can any reader oblige with a 
remedy ?-E. M. 

Siskins. — Thanks to “Ornithologist," I purpose 
keeping English birds In my cage which will be indoors 
close to a window facing south-west. 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 


Preseived eggs.— The egg to be pre¬ 
served well should be kept at a temperature so 
low that the air and fluids within its shell shall 
not be brought into a decomposing condition, 
and, at the same time, the air outside of its shell 
should be excluded in order to prevent its 
action in any way on the egg. The following 
mixture was patented some years ago by Mr. 
Jayne, of Sheffield. He alleged that by means 
of it he could keep eggs two years. A part of 
his composition is often made use of; perhaps 
the whole would le better. Put into a tub or 
vessel one bushel of quicklime. 2 pounds of salt, 
half a pound of cream of tartar, and mix the 
same together with as much water as will re¬ 
duce the composition or mixture to that con¬ 
sistence that it will cause an egg put into it to 
swim with its top just above the liquid; then 
place the eggs therein. Eggs may be preserved 
also by applying with a brush a solution of gum 
arabic to the shells, and afterwards packing 
them in dry charcoal dust.— Celer et Audax. 

To make pikelets.— Beat four eggs well* 
add enough flour to make a thick paste, then 
warm a quart of milk to blood heat, and thin 
the paste down, adding more flour and milk 
until the quart is used, and the paste is as thick 
as a fritter-batter: add half a tcacupful of good 
brewers’ yeast, and sugar to taste. The pikelets 
must be cooked on a bakestone over a clear, 
brightfire, greasiDg it with lard before dropping 
the pikelet mixture on, aud about half a tea- 
cupful is enough for each cake, which must be 
buttered as soon as cooked. Pikelet rings can 
be got at any tinman's to keep the cakes in 
shape, and the iron shelf generally found in 
ovens makes an excellent bakestone. I forgot 
to mention that the batter muRt be put in a warm 
place for an hour to allow it to rise.—W. H. J. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




b . • 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


DANIELS’ CHOICE STRAINS 


D ‘'Premier'—as supplied by us to hundreds of the 
leaders of Gardening. We hare no hesitation in sayiDg 
this is the best mixed Primula in the trade. Numerous testi¬ 
monials from nurserymen, gardeners, and amateurs. The 
colours range from pure white through the most delicate 
shades of blush and lilac to deep ooccinea red. The flowers 
are large and thrown well above the foliage. Among plants 
raised from onr seed last year were many curious and beau¬ 
tiful varieties of ‘‘Fancy” Primulas. We give as liberal 


OF 

FLORISTS* FLOWER SEEDS. 

FOR PRESENT SOWING. POST FREE. 

We (five special attention to the growth and selection of our 
choke strains of Florists' Flower Seals, and can guarantee 
the following as of wunirpauably fine quality. 


A CHOICE Selection of Geraniums, Calceolaci 

Fuchsias, A g era turns. Petunias, Coleus, and all th* y 
ing kind* of plants for carpet bedding, Ac. Rooted cuttum 

Bs. per 100 ; large plants. 

G. D. BLAGROVE, 
BLACKHEATH NURSERIES, UPPER ST. JOHJi 
PARK. BLACKHEATH. 

PERNS A SPECIALITY 
Exotic and British Ferns and Selagmelii 

Suitable for STOVE and GREENHOU8E culbutiOLl 
OUTDOOR FERNERIES, and other purposes in imiM 
nrnnber and variety. Our LLLU8TRATF.D CATALOG! 


bo useful 


1 O HARDY ANNUALS in 12 pretty illustrated 

X^ packets and one packet of Mignonette gratis, post free 
for Is. ; 6 varieties Ornamental Grasses, so fine for gardens, 
post free for Is. : five packets of five kinds of Mignonette, in- 
' al, post free for 9d. All the seed is 
.relied on.—RYDER A SON, Sale. 


new and fresh and can 
Manchester. __ 

_ ^ Cheap Dahlias, Double and Single. 


•THE fine large show, fancy and pompone kinds, 
t nicely rooted, sturdy plants, excellent named sorts in 
grea t variety. N ote.—These are the well -known d ouble v arieties, 
^ . . SINGLE DAHLIAS 


New Seeds. 


T L. WATSON’S HALF-CROWN 0 

U . LECTION OF VEGETABLE SEEDS conUiai 
White Lisbon Onion (for early use). J oz. Deje/ordOi 

i Moz. Brussels Sprouts, i oz. Higham Cabbage, 1 ol I 
■ream Cauliflower, i oz. Sprouting Broccoli. J oz. Short 
Carrot, 1 oz. Hollow Crown Parsnip, \ oz. DnmibeadSi 

L Wpv.. Snowball Turnip, ioz, White Cos Lettuce, iotOah 
Hettuce, J oz. French Breakfaut Radish, 1 packet ex 
Curled Parsley, Vegetable Marrow (3 sorts miidhWi 
Ridge Cucumber, Pumpkin, Red Cabbage, Fulham f 
Endive, and Red Italian Tomato. Special oiler, not k! 
to alteration. Free postal order 2s. 64.—J. L WAT* 
Manor Road Nursery, Gravesend. _ 

J. L. Watson's Shilling Collections, 

n A VARIETIES OF FLOWER SEEDS for 

—Double Balsam, cacariensis. Mignonette, Tall 1 
turtium, Linum, Phlox Drummondi, China and Uc. 
Aster. 8tock (three colours). Everlasting Flower. 8s«l 
Convolvulus (major and minor), African Marigold, lt;i 
cultural directions. 


i2 choice kinds for 3s. 6d., post free._ 

from the finest strains in the kingdom, established plams 
from pots. As these were potted a month ago they will make 
very fine plants by bedding-out time, pear doz., 2a. 6d.; per 100. 
18s , post free. 5s. value or upwards sent in separate pots, if 
desired packf d in small himper (customer to pay carriage).— 
RYDER * SON, Sale. Manchester._ 

PARLY CAULIFLOWER PLANTS—Nice, 

Xj well-rooted, stiff plants, ready for putting out, per score, 
Is. 3d. : per 10C, 5s. 6d., carriage paid.—RYDER A SON, Sale, 


Per packet—s. d. 

AURICULA, choicest Alpine . .. ..10 

BEGONIA, Tuberous-rooted hybrid, from a splendid 

collection .. . .. Is. od. and 2 6 

CALCEOLARIA HYBRID A, superb tigred and spotted 

Is. 6d. and 2 6 

CARNATION, choicest double, from stage flowers 

Is. 6d. and 2 6 

CINERARIA HYBRIDA, magnificent large-flowered 

strain .. .. .. Is. 6d. and 2 6 

CYCLAMENPERSICUM GIGANTEUM, very tine.. 2 6 
CANTERBURY BELLS, Dean's new hybrid single, 

splendid .. .. .. . ■ .. ..10 

„ double, rose, beautiful massive 
flowers .. .. .. .. ..10 

,. „ „ choicest mixed 6d. and 1 0 

GLOXINIA HYBRIDA CRASSIFOL1A, superb 

mixed .. .. .. Is. 6<L and 2 6 

HOLLYHOCK. Chater's finest double .. ..16 

MIMULUS, Daniels'large flowered, Bplendid ..10 

PANSY, Daniels' Prize Blotched, very fine varieties 

Is. 6d and 2 6 

Improved Striped, beautiful varieties 1 6 

PICOTEE, choicest double, from named flowers 

Is. 6d. and 2 6 

PRIMULA, Chiswick red, magnificent strain.. .. 2 6 

„ alba magnified, splendid fringed.. .. 2 6 

„ Daniels' choicest red .. .. ..16 

„ „ „ white .. .. ..16 

„ „ „ mixed .. Is. 6d. and 2 6 

Fern-leaved, very choi:e. mixed .. ..16 

PRIMROSE, beautiful hybrid varieties, mixed .. 10 
POLYANTHUS, fine gold-laced .. .. ..10 

STOCK, East Lothian, scarlet, finest double .. ..10 

„ „ „ pure white „ .. ..10 

I, H i> mixed „ .. ..10 

,, Brompton Giant, Bcarlet .. .. ..10 

„ ,, „ mixed .. .. t!d. and 1 0 

SWEET WILLIAM, magnificent strain .. 6d and 1 0 


ties, for 2e. ; ail carefully packed and post free.—RYDER 
and SON, Sale, Manchester. 

Double Daisies in full bloom. 

TTERY fine plants, will make immediate display, 
V pink, pure white, and deep red (mixed); packed in small 
baskets and placed on rail at 5s. per 100. Ss. for 50 Less 
quantity not poI 1. as these are clearance prices.—RYDER 
and SON, Sale, Manchester. _ 

Special offer of the following fine hardy 
plants. 

s. d. I 8. d. 

4 Primula Sieboldi .. 1 6 12 Hen and Chijken 

4 Primula japonicu 16 1 Daisy.16 

4 Anemone japonica ! 12 variegated-leaved dittol 6 

alba .1 6 12 Pansies of sorts .. 16 

4 Aquilegia chrysantha 1 6 4 Iberia coriacea .. 16 

4 Picks (Mrs. Sinkins), 1 4 Geum, double scarlet 1 6 
fine white .. .. 1 6 1 12 single Dahlias, tine 

4 Pinks to name.. 1 6 | plants.2 6 

Post free for cash with order. 

R. MARIES, lytham. Lancashire- 


M VARIETIES OF VEGETABLE SEE1 

Is.—Onion. Celery, Parsnip, Kaii, Spinach. M 
Cabbage, Leek. Savoy, Turnip, Parsley, Lettuce, and] 
Either collection post free 13 stamps. An extra 
enclosed to repay stamp in ordering, from 

J. L. WATSON. Manor RnjdNurs er y. Graratt 
Imported Seeds In Sixpenny Packet 
T L. WATSON offers beat Quality IMPOI 

G • SEEDS in small packets (equal to more eij 
packets), to suit amateurs and small growett-rix. 

' * ‘ ~ *’-" wered), Giant Ee 

mroved ditto. Ab 

___so Presidet Thw 

large flowering Ten-week stock (J). Giant Stock. Doubk 


bouquet Aster (Chrysanthemum-flow 
Reids Improved and Truffaut's Imi 
Camellia flowered Balsam, Cocks com! 


flower, Chater's Hollyhocr, Auricula-flowered Sweet! 
Verbena, Ice Plant. Sensitive Plant. Petunia pan 
Phlox Drummondi (a splendid strain). Mimulos, A: 
and Carnation, 6d. per packet; or the collection pa 
for 10s. 

_ Manor Road Nursery, Gravewnn . ■ 

Shllllngr Packets of Flower Seed* 
TTKRBACEOUS CALCEOL ARIA (Thorny 
XI Covent Garden Strain of PRIMULA, reds* 
Fern-leaf PRIMULA. CINERARIA, CYGLAMB 
BEGONIA. The collection post free for 5s. Fw , 
J. L. WATSON. Manor Road Nursery. CmrtW 
DOLYANTHUIS.— Grandest strain in Em 
X all colours, good bloomicg plants, 12 for lri 
beautiful white ones, good blooming plants. 1*.8M 
SHEPPERSON, Florist, Prospect House. Belptf 

A URICULAS.—The old-fashioned aatf 
jQ. low, most delicious perfume, plants in Wo* 
2s„ free.—8. SHKPPER8QN, Belper. • 


(Anemone sylvestrisj 

This hitherto rare and 
beautiful Spring Flower 
may now be introduced 
into every garden by 
means of Seed of which 
we have been fortunate 
enough for the first time 
to obtain a quantity’. 
Flowers, about size of 
half-a-crown, purest 
white. Seed, post free, 
1 b. per packet. 


VJ from Carter’s celebrated strain : stroi 
this year, 12 for Is., free.—S. SHEPPERS 


Choice Elower Seeds 

IN PENNY PACKETS. 


poet House. Belper. 


Hooper&Co 

COVENT GARDEN, 

LONDON. 


flANTERBURY BELLS.-Splendid colW 
VJ all the new colours, including the grand new* 
double and single mixed, 12 for is., free.—S- an** 1 
SON, Florist , Pxoapect House, Belper. ^ 

PANSIES.—Show and fancy, best cdhj 

X in England, the cream of all the most noted 

other raisers, good plants. 12 distinct, correctly oani 

24 for 5s. 6d., free, with descriptive lint.—8. Hn»rraw 

Florist. Prospect Houbp, Belper. _ t J 

A LL plants 'offered bv me can also be haj 

21 the 100 or 1000 cheap.- « ftHRPPFRSOlI.MWg 

WEW PLANTS' NEW PLANTS b-6°j 

IN best new Zonal Geraniums of 1882 for4a W-. 
superb new Fuchsias of 1882, 4e.: 6 grand . 
themums of 1832, 4s.; these are grandaddiUonjJjS , 
flowers, all post tree; catalogues free, jom 


A splendid assoitment of the most 
showy, popular, and beautiful 
varieties, including finest Double 
German Aster and Ten-week Stock, 
Scarlet Linum, Phlox Drummondi, 
Double Zinnia, Mignonette, Pansy, 
Sweet Peas, Nemophila insignia, 
Calliopsis, Dwarf Nasturtium, 
Clarkia, Ac. 

100 Packets, in 100 Choioe 

Varieties, post free 8s. Od. 
50 Packets, in 50 Choice 

Varieties, post free 4s. 2d. 
25 Packets, in 25 Choice 

Varieties, post free 2a. 2<L 


(Late of Framiugham) 

AFFERS the following at prices annexed in 

V/ strong plants. All orders will be safely packed in strong 
boxes with Moss for caBh with order, P.O.O. payable at. 8t. 
Faith's. Fuchsias, Trumpeter 3d., Miss Lizzie Vidler 6<i, 
procumbens 3d., Baby Fuchsia 3d.. Beauty of Swanley 3d., 
Mrs. H. Cannell 3d., Memphis 3d.. Grand Duchess Marie 3d., 
12 grand sorts 28. Coleus, beautiful varieties. Pompadour, 
Illuminator, President Hardy, Mrs J. J. Column 3d. each, 
6 for Is. 3d., 12 for 2s. Geraniums, 6 selected 2s, 12 scarlet 
Vesuvius 2s.. 12 mixed Is. 6d. Single Dahlias, extra strong 

S lants to make a blaze of flowers until frost. 6 for 2a., 12 for 
i. 6d. Artillery plant 2d.. Sedums 2d., Heliotrope 2d., 
Begonia 4tL, Cockscomb (nice early plants) 3d., Salvia 


Florist. Banbury. 


The Cottager's Packet 12 

varieties .. .. Is. 2d. 

r Each Packet contains sufficient 
seed for making two or three nice 
* rowth. Full ins true- 


■FLOWERING 

■X Ceanothus, shee 


rers, Forsythta. Q® 
,„r. 1,. M.; JygS 
noruru, orncinaie, revoiutuoi, Weigels rosea, j 

StaDhylea pinnata, each 4d. ; red Pompppo W**- 
ditto, 9d. each ; Crimson Clove Carnations . • t ^ 

strong climbing Roses, three, lfi- 2d.: f oaJl 

Honeysuckles, four. Is. 2d. Crassula j® 4 ™’ ^ fit 

Isolenis gracilis (ornamental ( rasa), 

HENRY A CO„ Chigwell Row, Essex _.——' 

p.HOICE COLLECTION OF BEDD}; 

VJ PL ANTS, well grown and thoroughly tow™ . t 
paid to any railway station for 15«- .u»pr • 1 dot < 
Geraniums, scarlet pink, white, gold, ana su • ^ 

of double Dahlias, Verbenas, Hehotrop#*, t in) Kuck 
Marguerites. Chrysanthemums, Redum varieai ^ t 
Calcol.riM, Tajrtw. Asters, BtookA 
I week la May.—HENKY & CO , Cluf»'e“ E 0 ’ 1 “ 


natches. All the varieties are easy of 
t.oua tor cultivation sent with each on 

Beautifully Illustrated Catalogue Free to Customers, 


DANIELS BROS. 

THE QUEEN’S SEEDSMEN, NORWICH. 


rj.ARDENER and Good Plain Cook and Dairy- 

vX woman (man and wife) required, to live in the house: 


NGLE DAHLIAS.—Good seedlings, fine vn- 

riety colours, Is. 3d. doz. ; £..« k!.. ’ 

i, 6s ; Petunia grnnditiora, all colours. 4d. 

, 4d. ; German Asters, 3d ; V.. " ' " 

, carefull v^rosked.—LAW3 & 


VOUU BCCUUlIgS. uuo Vtt- 

fine named kinds from single 

_II —I- ..I. , double ZIn 

blue Lobelias, 3d doz., post 
a |ON, Nurseries, Beccles. 


u woman (man and wife) required, to live in the house; 
must understand the management of cows ; good characters 
indispensable.—Address Miss WEBBER, Ashlield, Mid¬ 
hurst, Bussex. I ■ ik ||t / r 









GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


You V. 


MAY 12, 1883. 


No. 218. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Continued from page 104.) 


THE AMERICAN GARDEN. 

MANY of the beautiful trees, shrubs, and flower¬ 
ing plants which adorn the tastefully arranged 
English garden have been brought front the 
higher regions of that great Continent — 
America. In large gardens, where there is space 
for many separate and distinct features, the 
American garden may very appropriately find a 
nich somewhere, not, as too often happens, in the 
shape of formal beds of Rhododendrons, hut 
treated freely and boldly, bringing into pro¬ 
minence not only picturesque groups of ever¬ 
greens, but drawing freely upon the rich stores 
of deciduous trees and shrubs, using freely, too, 
the Lilies and other flowering plants which 
associate so well with the dwarfer American 
shrubs. 

Tub Rhododendbon heads the list of Ameri¬ 
can shrubs, and, as a rule, so well does it thrive 
in this island home of ours, that in some neigh¬ 
bourhoods it has completely altered the character 
of the scenery, especially in the spring, when 
the woods are lighted up with its gorgeous clus¬ 
ters of blossoms. At Cobham Park, in Kent, 
l’ortnal I 'ark, Middlesex, Powderham Castle, 
and many other places in Devon and elsewhere— 
in fact anywhere in these islands where the soil 
is not impregnated with lime—the Rhododen¬ 
dron will thrive and blossom in a way which 
commands and receives unbounded admiration. 
The late Charles Dickens, whose residence — 
Gadshill—was near Cobham Park, speaks enthu¬ 
siastically of the Rhododendrons there in one of 
his letters. I lingered the best part of a long 
day about there some years ago when the Rhodo¬ 
dendrons were in their beauty, and though the 
masses which exist in such abundance—covering 
something like 150 acres in the grounds and 
woods—are all of the common ponticum type, yet 
the effect of such a sight becomes indelibly fixed 
on the mind. Though the Rhododendron, the 
pride of the spring and early summer garden, is 
classed with American plants, yet it is not ex¬ 
clusively of American origin. The common 
spesies (ponticum), which is naturalised in our 
woods, is a native of Europe. The magnificent 
scarlet species (arborea) of our conservatories 
comes from India: and from the high mountain 
ranges of India a numerous and distinct, though 
a somewhat tender, race of Rhododendrons have 
been imported. Solitary species have been 
obtained from other countries, including Russia. 
Prom America, Catawbiense, a host in itself, and 
many other hardy species have been introduced, 
which in our gardens have multiplied ex¬ 
ceedingly, throwing off many hybrid forms. It 
has been supposed by many that for its perfect 
development the Rhododendron requires peat or 
bog earth, but this is not so, as they will flourish 
very well if leaf-mould and old manure (preferably 
cow manure) be added to the soil. They delight 
in the moisture and shade of woodland districts of 
the southern and western counties, and they revel 
amid the rich, alluvial deposits of old river 
beds. Knowing these facts, it is a comparatively 
easy matter to prepare a place for Rhododen¬ 
drons. The site should be trenched np deeply, 
bat not bringing any had stuff to the surface. 
In extreme cases—to get depth of soil without 
undue elevation—the bad soil may bo taken 
away. Anything in the way of decayed vege¬ 
table matter will do for the Rhododendron 
beds; chopped turf, leaf-mould, old hotbeds, 
cleanings of ditches, and charred refuse may 
be employed, but no lime or calcareous matter, 
for they will not grow on a limestone soil, and 
i this fact must be kept in mind. Being of a 
jfibiy-rooted nature, Rhododendrons will always 
(lift with balls, and there is less danger in 
jh icsplanting than with most things. April and 
•October are the best months for moving them, 
ped if the work be done with care, there need 
no fear of the result, but their permanent 
Well-doing will depend entirely upon the pre- 
fuation of the site; and a mulching with short 
ttonure immediately after planting is very im¬ 
portant. After the flowering has finished, the 


specimens, as they tend so much to exhaust the 
plants. Shelter from cold winds is necessary, 
especially the first season of planting, as if the 
plants have been obtained from a nursery, they 
probably have been taken from a well-sheltered 
situation. In cold districts, north or north-west 
of London, where the rainfall is considerable, 
less shade will be required, as without sunshine 
the wood will not ripen and the plant will not 
blossom freely. 

The following list gives a good selection of 
varieties :— 

EarlyJimrering section .—Altaclarense (scarlet), 
Coccineum (scarlet), Albertus (wlfite and pink), 
Broughtonianum (rose), Blanche Superb (white), 
Jacksoni (light rose), Campanulatum (creamy 
white), Desdemona (white, blotched crimson), 
Sir Walter Scott (pink, shading rose), Noble- 
anum (various), Marian (pink, dark spots), 
Victoria (purplish claret). The early section are 
well adapted for forcing for the conservatory. If 
potted in autumn before severe frost comes and 
placed in a cold house or pit, introduced to a 
higher temperature about the end of Novem¬ 
ber, the flowers will begin to open soon after 
Christmas. In the open border the early (lower¬ 
ing kinds sometimes suffer from the effects of 
frost, but with the protection of a glass roof the 
colours come out bright and uninjured in great 
trusses. There is no class of plants which pro¬ 
duce so much blossom on so small a surface 
with so little trouble. 

Medium and late-flowering varieties. —Atro- 
sanguineum (dark red), Alarm (white, edged 
with scarlet), Albion (red spotted), Alaric 
(clarety plum), Amethystinum (blush, tipped 
puce), Blandyannm (rosy' crimson), Black Prince 
(very dark), Beauty of Surrey (rose spotted), 
Delicatissima (pale pink, fading to white), Iago 
(rosy crimson), Comet (scarlet), Faust (rosy 
lilac), Everestianum (rosy lilac), Hugh Fraser 
(purple), Ne Plus Ultra (purple, light centre), 
Earl of Rossiyn (claret), Elfrida (rosy crimson), 
Fleur de Marie (rosy crimson and white,), Han¬ 
nibal (bright rose), 8ix Charles Napier (rose), 
Helen Waterer (white and crimson), Hogarth 
(rosy crimson), John Waterer (glowing crimson), 
Lady Armstrong (pale rose), Stamfordianum 
(claret), Minnie (white and chocolate), Mrs. 
Standish (white, brown spots), Schiller (purple), 
Lady Dorothy Neville (purple), Perspicunm 
(pure white). Lord Clyde (crimsoD), Lord John 
Russell (pate rose), maculatum (light blush, 
orange spots), Standish’s Perfection (pale peach), 
Old Post (rich plum), Paxtoni (rose), Prince 
Albert (deep crimson), Prince Camille de Rohan 
(white and rose), Princess Mary of Cambridge 
(white and rose), Titian (rosy scarlet), Zuleika 
(white and rosy pink). 

Besides the beauty and grandeur of its blos¬ 
soms, the Rhododendron, os an evergreen shrub, 
has few equals. To see them growing in the 
southern and western counties in the utmost 
luxuriance, twenty feet high or more, with the 
regnlarity, exactness, and refinement of growth 
which is possessed in the same degree by no 
other shrub, is a sight not likely to be forgotten. 
All things are great or little by comparison, but 
to see a hill side clothed with Rhododenrons at 
any season of the year is a pleasing sight. 
Unsnally there are inequalities in the surface 
of dark green leaves which cause pleasant 
flickers of light and shade to break forth, 
bringing into prominence some hitherto over¬ 
looked feature. The Rhododendron ponticum 
and its varieties are exceUent evergreens for 
planting in woods to form shelters and covers 
for game. The severest frost never injures 
them, and rabbits, those pests in ornamental 
woods, never touch them. Do them justice 
in planting, for whoever plants in badly pre¬ 
pared ground does not deserve success. 

The Hardy Azaleas 

Are closely related to the Rhododendrons, and 
will suceed under similar conditions. The com¬ 
mon kinds make fine masses in the open glades 
of the shrubbery or wild garden. The common 
yellow-flowered kind (ponticum) in a mass is 
very beautiful, and so sweet, filling the air in its 


•Kd pods should be n mov^TTFun^aB ch^i|e I neighbourhood with fragrance of a most delight¬ 


ful kind. During the last twelve years or so a 
now race of these hardy Azaleas have been 
introduced from Japan, having larger flowers 
of a more perfect shape than the Ghent 
or ponticum varieties. Though perfectly 
hardy, their early flowering habit is against them 
in our climate, as their broad petals offer so 
much resistance to the wind, from which, in our 
cold springs, they arc liable to suffer injury. 
But few things surpass them for forcing for the 
conservatory, and they may he lifted from the 
border with balls of fibry roots any time, and be 
planted out again after the growth is completed. 

I append a short list of varieties of both the 
Ghent and Japanese sections:— 

Ghent varieties .—Admiral de Rnyter (scarlet), 
Altaclarense (yellow), Augnstissima (red and 
yellow), Beauty of Flanders (sulphur and sal¬ 
mon), Camea elegans (light pink), Decorata 
(pink), Fulgidaj (orange scarlet), Gdant des Ba- 
tailles (crimson), Julius Ctesar (scarlet and 
orange), Miniata floribunda (shaded pink),Nancy 
Waterer (yellow and salmon), Ne Plus Ultra 
(orange scarlet), Narcissiflora (primrose yellow), 
Nobilis (salmon red), Princesse d'Orange (salmon 
pink), Rosea formosissima (blush pink), Rubens 
(red and orange), Van Dyck (red), Van Houtte 
(red and yellow), Splendens (orange scarlet), 
Versicolor (shaded pink). 

Japanese varieties .—Azalea mollis," Alphonse 
Lavallde (orange and scarlet), Baron Edward de 
Rothschild (red and yellow), Charles Francois 
Luppis (rose and magenta), Comte de Gomer 
(rose, orange spots), Comte de Quincey (yellow), 
Consul Cdrdsole (red, orange spots). Dr. Leon 
Vignes (white shaded with yellow), Ebenezer 
Pipe (salmon-red), Isabella Van Houtte (yellow), 
M. Jules Putzeys (red), M. Arthur de Warelles 
(salmon), Consul P(cher (rose). For forcing, the 
unnamed seedlings are very suitable, and much 
variation of colour is obtained. 

Azalea amoena and A. a. splendens are low 
bushes with smaU crimson flowers, excellent for 
rookery or for front plants in the American 
border. 

I have often thought if, instead of the owners 
of gardens following in each other's track so 
blindly, or permitting the fashionable landscape 
gardener to lay down everywhere his leading 
idea, they would think a little for themselves, 
and then give shape to their thoughts in their 
gardens, and follow oat this thought, those 
who loved hardy things, whether of flower, tree, 
or shrub, might find a good deal of scope for 
their energies in the garden of American plants. 
Devoting oneself to any special object would lead 
to more variety in gardens generally. The Kal- 
mias, Ledums, Menziesia (Irish Heaths), Peraet- 
tyas, Vacciuiums, Andromedas, are all fine snbjects 
for the American garden, and will succeed under 
like conditions to the Rhododendrons and 
Azaleas. The hardy Heaths are a numerous and 
most interesting family, well adapted for occupy¬ 
ing front positions. 

Selecting Trees and Shrubs. 

Before leaving this part of my subject, I 
should like to say a few words upon the im¬ 
portance of planting none but healthy, well 
formed specimens. There is a certain percentage 
of weaklings in all races of living things, and in 
the case of trees and shrubs the judicious planter 
casts them on one side. No amount of skill can 
develop the constitutionally weak into strong, 
healthy, fuU grown specimens. This to some may 
be a matter of small importance, as a tree is a 
tree, even if it be small and deformed. In select¬ 
ing those of spiral habit, such as the CnpresBns, 
Biota, Arborvitse, tec., take none but those 
which have been trained to one central stem. 
Those trees which have developed several leaders 
will be an endless sonree of trouble as they grow 
old and have to meet the full force of the wind. 
And as regards what has been happily termed pic¬ 
torial trees, they should possess strong, healthy, 
well-formed stems, and evenly-balanced beads. 
Selected plants may cost a little more in the first 
instance, as everybody must be paid for work 
done, but the result will be, under all circum¬ 
stances, more satisfactory. 

E. Hooday. 







116 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Mat 12 , 1883 . 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

OLD-FASHIONED AURICULAS. 

IN a northern Scottish county, where I long 
resided, and which I left more than thirty-years 
ago, there was a light blue or lilac coloured 
Auricula so universally cultivated that few 
gardens could be found where it did not form a 
prominent part of their floral decorations. In 
many gardens it was used exclusively as the 
edging for border walks. In my wanderings 
si nee through different parts of the kingdom, 
though always interested in, and keeping my 
eyes on, Auriculas, I do not remember ever see¬ 
ing this particular species or variety of Primula 
Auricula occupying a place in any garden. 
Having recently returned to the same county, I 
still find this plain and unattractive looking 
form of the Auricula pretty generally cultivated, 
although its use as an edging has now been 
entirely superseded by Box, or other plants 
more suitable for that purpose. Although inter¬ 
esting to me as associated with attempts at 
gardening in early boyhood, I have no doubt but 
that my old floral pets would be looked upon 
contemptuously by the cultivators (restricted in 
number) and the many admirers of the more 
modern varied and highly perfected forms of the 
Auricula, as possessing none of the essential 
characteristics of either the show or the com¬ 
moner garden varieties. 

The plant I refer to blooms earlier than any 
of the common garden varieties. It is also ex¬ 
tremely hardy. I have known it cast forth from 
a garden, and, retaining its vitality for a long 
period, bloom while lying exposed on the sur¬ 
face of the ground. It also maintains a uniform 
self colour. These qualities lead me to think 
that it may be a distinct species, and not a mere 
variety. This constant adherence, however, to 
the same colour, and to one prevailing over all 
parts of the petal, may arise from its being 
only propagated by division; if raised from 
seed and stimulated by high cultivation, it might 
possibly sport and assume a versatility of colour¬ 
ing, while by jucicious selection it might be 
rendered capable of progressive improvement. 
I am not aware if it would come true to colour 
if raised from seed, or if it would hybridise with 
the Alpine varieties—that have, under cultivation, 
acquired the sporting tendency. It occurs to 
me that I had somewhere once pointed out to 
me an almost identical plant, said to be a dis¬ 
tinct species of Primula from the Swiss moun¬ 
tains. These mountains are said to be the 
original home of our cultivated Auriculas, 
though their exact origin has, I am aware, been 
much controverted, and that they have been 
affiliated to several distinct Alpine species. I 
send a specimen bloom of the plant in question, 
and another of a white and also self-coloured 
sort, which I have obtained, and which I am 
told has been—though not so well-known—long 
associated with the other. They appear to differ 
from each other in no respect except in colour. 
I would esteem it a favour if some of your 
botanical and experienced contributors would 
enlighten me on the subject. I may add that 
an intelligent local nurseryman, familiar with 
the plant, assures me that it is well-known under 
the name “ Alpina,’’ and held to be—though long 
cultivated—an unchanged specimen of the wild 
growing parent of our Auriculas. I forget the 
specific name of the species generally recognised 
by botanists as such, but recollect their being 
described by Auricula growers as having yello w 
coloured flowers. In a list of the members (up¬ 
wards of fifty in number, irrespective of the five 
British species) of the genus Primula, an 
“ Alpina ” does not occur. Apparently such an 
appellation would be improper because mis¬ 
leading, as it would equally apply to many of 
the European and Asiastic species having an 
Alpine or a sub-Alpine habitat. I am aware that 
in seedsmen’s lists the term is employed to dis¬ 
tinguish the two groups (Show and Alpine) of 
our cultivated Auricula having a common 
ancestry. A Reader op Gardening. 


Polyanthuses and Primroses — Seeing 
a note in Gardening, page 8G, on Primroses and 
Polyanthuses, in which it was noted what a fine 
display may be made by them in the spring 
months, I thought I would send you a few 
blooms, of which I dare say I could cut fully 
two or three hyndjed bunches ljke the one I send 
you. They ai 


a^all ^e^HicQ^fj jjry 


own that I 


have been sorting out for upwards of twenty 
years. They are of the simplest colours, and 
nothing that I know of makes a finer display 
among shrubs and under the shade of trees 
during the spring. They have also the hardest 
of constitutions, and they begin to bloom about 
the middle of January if the ground is not 
covered with snow, and continue blooming until 
the sun gets too much power for them: then they 
have to give up and wait for the autumn rains 
to freshen them up, and plenty of them will 
then commence to bloom again, and will do so 
as long as the frost will allow them, so that 
we have them in bloom fully seven months out 
of the twelve.— R. S. Kebteven. [The blooms 
sent were very large, robust, and handsome.] 
Plantain Lilies (Funkias).— These are 

excellent garden plants, and do not require any 
particular method of culture ; they thrive in 
almost any soil, but grow with the greatest free¬ 
dom in sandy, well-drained loam. To see them 
at their best, they require to remain undisturbed 
for several years, they then develop into large 
tufts several feet across, the pleasingly varie¬ 
gated foliage presenting a very cheerful appear¬ 
ance. Being of a dwarf habit, they are the best 
of subjects for the front line of the herbaceous 
border, or for edging large flewer beds. They 
flower freely and continuously all through the 
summer, and are most useful for furnishing cut 


flowers. Pot culture is simple. Pot them in 
March, giving good soil, grow in the open air, 
standing the pots on a coal ash bottom, or, better 
still, plunge up to the rims in an open, sunny, 
but rather sheltered situation, as these Plantain 
Lilies do not like rough or cutting winds. Water 
freely, and when the pots get full of roots give 
liberal supplies of liquid manure. Place under 
cover by the latter end of September for autumn 
decoration. To have them good early in the 
year, keep quite cool until the middle of 
December, and then place in heat. If afforded a 
light position, the new foliage comes up very 
bright. The best kinds are F. Sieboldi (here 
figured) and F. grandiflora.—J. C. B. 

Pansy and Viola cuttings -with 
hollow stems.— Some readers might remem¬ 
ber that last autumn there appeared in Garden¬ 
ing a note from me saying that I had taken a 
quantity of cuttings of Violas with hollow stems 
at the last joint next the terminal bud, and that 
nearly every one grew. In like manner on No¬ 
vember 20 I put in a pan-ful of Pansy cuttings, 
and placed them in a cold frame; from these I 
had not a single failure. A short time ago I put 
them all into the open ground. I never had such 
a stocky lot of plants, nor any that were more 
vigorous and healthy.—L. C. K. 

Daphne Oneorum.— One of the sweetest 
and most showy hardy plants now in bloom is 
this Daphne, which on account of its procumbent 
spreading character is well adapted for banks or 
rockwork, or other elevated positions ; when so 
planted and grown it runs about, droops over 
rocks, and seems to be quite at home. Many 
appear to have a difficulty in managing this 
Daphne, but with us it grows freely in light, 
sandy soil, and by layering the branches they 
root after being buried a year or so, and may be 
taken off in the spring. So floriferous are the 
plants here, that the tips of every shoot bloom; 
and as they cover a large space, they are a mass 
of gay blossoms. I shall be glad to hear if any¬ 
one lias tried this Daphne in pots for forcing, 
and how it behaves under glass. As it flowers 


naturally in April, it would appear to be valcabl- 
for starting early for cutting and working up it 
bouquets.—D. 

Hyacinths after blooming.— I hue 

frequently seen during the past winter the ques¬ 
tion asked if Hyacinths are worth keeping lor a 
second year's blooming. I will give my eipeii- 
ence. Some eight years since a friend on 
leaving gave me some bulbs—about Christmas 
time. They had been planted the prerioiu 
season, and when I got them were very snail 
and shrivelled. I planted them, and in the 
spring most of them flowered but small spike.. 
I lifted them in June, thoroughly dried them, 
and replanted the October following. The not 
spring I had a splendid bloom ; I have treated 
them exactly the same way every year since, and 
they have never failed to bloom splendidly, per 
haps not equal to named imported bulbs, but 
equal to, and often better than, mixed imports! 
bulbs. I might also state that I take off all the 
little bnlblets from the sides ; these I plant hr 
themselves, and from these in three years hart 
blooming plants. I commenced with abotr 
fifty.and have now about 300.—J. W., Lt/mivjU- 

Fever gum tree (Eucalyptus).— Of tfc 
there are numerous varieties, but not more that 
four or five kinds that are generally cultivate: 
and these mostly as conservatory plants in tb 
way of climbers for pillars and rafters, and for 
such positions in cool 
houses theydo Tery wel 
for a year or two,but afte 
that time the plants ge; 
naked stemmed and r- 
quire renewal. Offing;: 
its supposed sanitary si 
medicinal properties, E 
globulus (the Blue Gun 
tree) has of late year 
become well known, at: 
great has been the dis 
appointment to find tit 
it was not sufficient) 
hardy to withstand tie 
severity of the wintere 
1880 and 1881. It it 
however, hardy enmri 
to stand our ordinary 
winters, plants of it ben 
having stood witte 
any protection for fan 
years previous to 1880. The vsiriety E. alpina 
has proved perfectly hardy, growing, as it doe. 
to a height of 6 feet in the season ; and being 
so uncommon both in colour and habit, it may 
be classed among the very few kinds of compan 
tively hardy plants that can be used as subtnp: 
cals, a not less recommendation being that it i> 
very easily raised from seeds. Our plants of it, 
Bown in February last year, are now 6 feet high 
They look well as central plants in large beds K 
other tall growing subtropicals, but perhaps tier 
most appropriate—certainly their most telbng 
—position is as foreground plants to shrubbere 
in which there is a preponderance of dark 
coloured foliage, such as that of Portugal Lauret 
and Yews.—W. W., Hampshire. 

Tritomas—Tritoma Uvaria and its variety 
are usually looked on as antumn-floweriii, 
plants; but in mild, open weather they 
tinue to grow and flower more or less during <» 
whole winter, and, with the return of bri|“ 
sunshine, start again into full flower. I nr. 
the variety called T. Bnrchelli to be the m® 1 
constant bloomer, and superior to the pae 
flowered variety that only flowers once in tbt 
season. I And Tritomas excellent subjects i 
the backgrounds of large borders where the; 
are backed up by shrubs, the shelter of white 
is very beneficial to them and similar plat* 
that need a little protection in very sf crt 
weather. The old foliage is also a great help, 
and if removed on the score of tidiness, the firs 
severe frost will most likely kill or greatly in¬ 
jure the crowns ; plenty of foliage, with u* 
few dry leaves that drift about the plants, 
prove an efficient protector against ordinal' 
winters.—J. 

Hardy white Primrose (Primula i a P°“j 
ica alba).—This is a very pure and beauu 
white Primula, and the most remarkable unfis 
about it is that it comes true from seed- : ’ 
is the third year we have sown it, arm 
season seed has produced exactly the , 
plant, so that there is every prospect ot J ^ 
becoming common. I may take tnis oppor tnm '- 



Siebold’s Plantain Lily (Funkia Sieboldi). 


Mat 12, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


117 


of recommending that Primula japonica, the 
original rose-coloured form, should be always 
planted in moist situations. It does admirably 
in clear spaces in woods in marshy spots, either 
in sun or shaded. Some of the finest plants I 
ever saw were along the shady side of a high 
Ileech fence. Its colour is much richer in the 
shade, aDd there it grows more than 2 feet high. 
This plant should be grown much more largely 
and planted ont more freely than it is. It U 
easily raised from seed, and may be pricked out 
in permanent situations from the seed boxes. 
When once established, it sows its own seeds 
widely if suitable preparation be made for their 
reception.—B. D. 

9653.— Polyanthuses and Primroses. 

— These plants invariably do so well after being 
lifted into pots, that the case mentioned by “ J. 
T. F.” seems difficult to explain, unless it be on 
the score of the compost in which the plants 
were put and which seemed to be of an un¬ 
usually rich kind. Indeed, the general tendency 
of rich soils with the Primrose family is to push 
abnormal leafage, and such excessive growth of 
leafage can only be at the expense of bloom. 
Our own experience of Polyanthuses in pots is a 
large one, and we invariably find that preference 
is given to an ordinary compost of loam, with 
a small proportion of sand and rotted manure, 
but far from being a rich mixture. It is unad- 
visable in the blooming stage to force leafage, 
and if the crowns have been well matured in 
the open ground previously to lifting, there is 
little doubt but that the flowers will come good. 
It is found preferable to lift all these plants 
from the open ground into pots just as the flowers 
show, rather than earlier, taking good balls of 
earth, which should be carefully rubbed down 
not to injure’the roots, and to leave space enough 
round the ball when in the desired pot to enable 
fresh soil to come between it and the sides of 
the pots. The little roots left outside the ball 
soon attach to the new soil if the plants be placed 
in a frame and kept close. It is well to be 
assured that such growth has begun before the 
plants are put into a greenhouse, or exposed tco 
freely to sun and air. In the case of high-class, 
gold-laced Polyanthuses, it is necessary in the 
south to keep them always in pots, but if in the 
north they are planted out it is better to lift 
and pot into rather small pots in October. Over- 
potting of any of the family is a great mistake at 
any time, and is especially so with the gold- 
laced kinds. We prefer to lift Primroses, as with 
Polyanthuses of the border varieties, in the early 
spring, or indeed at any time when bloom-bnds 
show freely. The plants, when in pots, like 
plenty of light and air, and should always be 
kept near the glass, and free from decaying 
flowers and leaves.—A. If. 

9647.— Plants for fish pond. — The 
common Water Lily (Nymphtca alba) will do 
very well if it is allowed to establish itself in 
soft, mnddy loam, laid on the top of the clay 
before the gravel is pnt on. If there is a current, 
it should be a gentle one, otherwise the loam and 
the gravel may get too much mixed up together. 
The Lilies should be planted, and the gravel laid 
down jnst before the water is turned on. The 
common yellow Iris (Iris psendo-acorus) will do 
well in wet hollows on the banks of the stream 
without much attention, particularly if it is 
within reach of the floods, from which it can 
receive a top-dressingof thealluvialsoildeposited 
by the water. For the trout it would be better 
to have the ponds somewhat wider, to admit of 
the rides having a gradual slope up to the edge. 
The shallows created by this arrangement should 
be covered with gravel like the rest of the pond, 
to afford breeding places to water insects, and 
perhaps pond snails, upon which the trout feed, 
at least at certain seasons of the year. Stones 
for shelter should not be forgotten, otherwise 
the fish may become the victims of more than 
cue beast of prey.—P. B. 


Waste in manuring!.— It has been stated 
that manure Bpread on the surface of the soil 
and exposed to drying winds, whether hot in 
summer or cold in winter, Boon loses a quantity 
of its fertilising qualities. That this is an error 
has been proved before, but as the idea seems to 
linger in many quarters, it is worth while to call 
attention to it again, as much mischief is done by 
it For instance, one of the best employments 
for a frosty day is wheeling manure on to the land 
and spreading It in readine^tfr be dug in 


teni 


first favourable opportunity. Those who consider 
the manure spoilt by exposure must either waste 
time and trouble covering it, or do the work when 
the ground is soft and the paths cut up by wheel¬ 
ing upon them. This subject was thoroughly 
argued thirteen years ago, when the controversy 
was ref erred to Dr. Voelcker, who gave his opinion, 
based not on speculation, but actual experiment, 
“ that farmyard manure spread on the land 
loses nothing by exposure to sun and wind.” Of 
course, something may be said in favour of 
covering manure on the score of appearance, but 
this is beside the question.—C. G. P. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 


Extracts from a Garden Diary—May 14 to 
May 19. 

Sowing British Queen, Ne Plus Ultra, and Omega Peas. 
Potting on large Tomatoes for fruiting in pots. Planting 
out a three-light frame with Telegraph Cucumbers, and 
one with Green-fleshed Melons. Mulching late Straw¬ 
berries with chad cut from stable litter. Clearing off 
Broccoli stumps, manuring the ground, and getting it 
dug up for another crop. Sowing Canadian Wonder 
French Beans, and Early Snowball and Strap-leaf Tur¬ 
nips. Planting out Celery. Potting on double Petunias 
and Tricolor Pelargoniums. Pricking off Celery and 
Broccoli plants. Planting out Leeks in deep drills. Look¬ 
ing over Seakale beds and thinning out the crowns. 
Tying up Brown Cos Lettuces to blanch. Weeding walks, 
and hoeing amongst all growing crops. Potting on Pelar- 

g oniuros of sorts for autumn and winter blooming. Prick- 
lg off Stocks, Asters, and double German Wallflowers. 
Looking over the Asparagus beds regularly, and keeping 
them closely cut down. Nailing ana tying in the young 
shoots on Rose walls, and washing them where required 
with Quassia-chip water to kill green fly. Earthing up 
Potatoes that require it, and renovating the linings 
round manure frames. Sowing Early Horn Carrots for 
drawing young. Planting out Early Dwarf THm Savoys. 
Looking over the Peach trees and disbudding where 
required, picking off curled leaves, and keeping them 
well syringed to keep down Insects. Sowing Mignonette 
in pots. Planting out Pelargoniums and other bedding 
plants; also Autumn Giant and Self-protecting Cauli¬ 
flower plants in deep drills. ThinDing out Beet, Onions, 
Carrots, and Parsnips, and running the Dutch hoe between 
the drills. 

Glasshouses. 

Azaleas, —These are amongst the most ac¬ 
commodating plants we possess, for with auffi- 
cient stock and a suitable selection of kinds that 
have a natural disposition to bloom early, with 
others to follow and some that will bear being 
kept back, there is no difficulty in keeping up a 
succession from the latter end of the year until 
the middle of : ummer, but to do this it is neces¬ 
sary to vary the season of growth, encouraging 
the plants that bloomed earliest to make and 
complete their growth correspondingly early. 
Although this section of Azaleas will make growth 
and set their buds in an ordinary greenhouse 
temperature, still when so treated they make 
slow progress in gaining size, the wood being 
weak compared with that which is obtainable 
with a little warmth and a moist atmosphere ; 
moreover, where considerable quantities of these 
flowers are wanted for cutting there is much 
gained by keeping them warm, as so managed 
the season's shoots attain double the length they 
otherwise would do, and can be used so much 
longer when cut, an advantage which those who 
have floral decorations to arrange cannot fail to 
appreciate. An intermediate temperature, with 
amoist, moderately confined atmosphere, secured 
by not giving too much air, and this only for 
some six or eight hours in the day, is what they 
like. And at the same time they ought to he 
freely syringed daily to keep down thrips and 
red spider. When those which flowered first 
have set their bads and got the current season's 
shoots well matured, they should be removed to 
a house or pit, where they can be given a plenti¬ 
ful supply of air, so as to be quite cool. Those 
that have recently bloomed should at once have 
the seed vessels picked off, and be treated in 
every way like those already described. 

Epacribes.— Such of these as after blooming 
had their shoots cut well back, and have now 
made some growth, should be moved into pots a 
size larger, but it is well to bear in mind that 
none of the varieties can bear so much root-room 
as many things ; they are very impatient of the 
soil getting too wet, a condition that is much 
more likely to happen in the case of large than 
in that of small pots; a 2-inch shift is quite 
enough for any that are already in from G-inch 
to 10-inch pots. Epacrises will do with peat a 
little closer in texture than some things ; but it 
must have a liberal addition of sand in it, for if 
at all of a spongy character, so as to have a 
tendency to hold water, the roots are sure to 


perish. Pot hard, and do not give water sooner 
after potting than is absolutely necessary, to 
avoid which see that the roots are sufficiently 
moistened before potting. The liability which 
these plants have to die suddenly when they 
appear in the best of health, and there is do 
apparent canse, is in most cases attributable to 
too much water at the roots; they need to be 
allowed to get drier before water is given than 
Heaths. If the young soft shoots droop slightly 
previous to its being applied it rarely follows 
that much harm is done. A slight sprinkling 
with the syringe on the afternoons of bright days 
will be an advantage. 

Cyclamens. —Young stocks of these raised 
from seed sown last summer will now require 
especial attention. To bloom them well in 
fifteen or eighteen months after the seed is sown 
there must be no time lost. The best results are 
obtained by keeping them growing from the 
time the seed germinates without rest in an 
intermediate temperature. Now, when the sun 
has got much power, they must not be fully ex¬ 
posed to it, or they will not grow kindly, the 
leaves never attaining their full size and being 
much more susceptible than they otherwise 
would be to attacks from red spider. Bee that 
the soil is kept pretty moist; any that were sown 
late and not yet removed from the pots or pans 
in which they were pricked out should at once 
be put into small pots. Plants that have done 
flowering should be got together and placed in a 
pit or house where they can be properly attended 
to with water; the system of drying them off is 
altogether opposed to their well-being. Means 
ought to be taken to keep them free from in¬ 
sects, so as to preserve the old leaves in healthy 
condition. By this means when the time comes 
for their pushing up a fresh crop of foliage they 
will be much more vigorous, and bloom again 
proportionately better. 

Lapagebiab. —These finest of greenhouse 
climbing plants are to some extent exceptional 
in their requirements. If grown in houses where 
any warmth is used further than is sufficient to 
keep out frost, they are excited to earlier growth, 
and under such circumstances I have found the 
young shoots and leaves very impatient of 
exposure to the full force of the snn, which not 
unusually has the effect of stopping the shoots 
from attaining their full growth, and causing 
the leaves to be deformed. Any aspect seems to 
suit these plants better than the south, yet if in 
too dark a position they rarely flower, however 
strong they may be, so freely as when more 
favourably placed in this respect. Now, whilst 
the young growth is in its tenderest condition, a 
thin shade of some kind should be applied, and 
the soil should be kept well moistened,especially 
if the plants are grown in pots or tubs and the 
roots fully occupy the soil; but where small or 
medium sized examples have been recently- 
turned, out in beds of considerable extent, the 
earth must not be made too wet, otherwise it 
will get into a soddened condition, under which 
the plants do not thrive. Syringe every after¬ 
noon, getting tho water if possible well to the 
under sides of the leaves; if this is attended to 
regularly, thrips, to which these plants are so 
subject, will be kept down, an essential point, 
for though the hard texture of the leaves 
prevents their being killed outright, still the 
insects feeding on them shortens their duration 
—a sad mishap when used for covering back 
walls and similar places in conservatories, for 
which purpose Lapagerias are well adapted. 

Heliotropes. —The small examples of these, 
such as are used for ordinary greenhouse decora¬ 
tion, arc well enough in their way, but where 
quantities of these fragrant flowers are required 
for cutting late in autumn and during the early 
months of the year, and the houses are cal¬ 
culated to accommodate them, some large plants 
should be grown, either planted ont on a back 
wall, if such is available, or trained to a pillar, 
for covering either of which few subjects can be 
more profitably used, as grown thus they will 
yield a plentiful supply of flowers. Should the 
new large white variety. White Lady, prove 
equal in freedom of blooming to the old kind, 
which has hitherto not been surpassed for general 
usefulness, it will be an acquisition. Its large 
size and decided colour commend it for a trial.— 
T. B. 

Large - flowered and fancy Pelargo¬ 
niums. —It is well to see that plants of these 
coming Into flower are free from sphides: if 




118 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Mat 12, 188S. 


not, they should be fumigated twice within six 
or eight days, so as to free them from these 
pests ; for if affected with them when the flowers 
are expanded and fumigation has to be resorted 
to then, it will cause the blooms to drop in 
quantity. These, as well as Calceolarias now 
in flower, should be shaded from the sun, or 
their flowers will fall quickly. If a few cuttings 
of Pelargoniums are at the present time put in 
to strike, they will be good plants by the autumn, 
and will make large, bushy specimens before the 
time of flowering next spring. Such cuttings 
can generally be obtained from the plants that 
are about to flower without waiting until the 
usual time of cutting down after they have done 
blooming. 

Arum Lilies. —Plants of these that have 
been forced, especially if large, may now with 
advantage be split up into single crowns, putting 
some into pots to be grown on in them, and 
planting the weaker portion out-of-doors. They 
will do well in ordinary soil in an open situation, 
and if a shallow trench is prepared for them it 
will be found to suit them. In this way they 
are easily kept supplied with water, of which in 
dry weather they can scarcely have too much ; 
and so treated they make more compact growth 
than in pots. In autumn they must be taken 
up and potted singly. They will flower in suc¬ 
cession after the pot-grown examples are over, 
which latter are best for forcing early. 

Fuchsias. —If the stock consists of early 
flowering varieties and others that naturally 
bloom later, there will be no difficulty in having 
plants of these in bloom from the present time 
up to late in autumn. Those not wanted to come 
in until considerably later should be no more 
exposed to the sun than is necessary to keep 
their growth stout, otherwise it is difficult to 
get them to grow much, so inclined are they to 
bloom after this time. Pinching the points 
once more of the shoots of the latter portion of 
the stock helps to retard the flowering, but the 
plants so treated must have pots large enough 
to give them an increase of root room, or they 
will not bloom strongly. Let the whole stock 
be frequently well syringed. This is necessary 
to keep down both aphides and red spider, either 
of which will much interfere with their growth, 
as well as with the healthy appearance of the 
foliage. 

Bouvabdias. —In whatever way the young 
plants struck from cuttings in the winter are 
to be grown through the summer, in pots or 
planted out in frames, they should be attended 
to in the way of stopping the shoots to prevent 
their getting long and straggling, studying the 
natural habit of the sorts grown; the close 
habited B. Vreelandi grows bushy naturally. 
Do not let any small stock of these suffer 
through confinement of the roots in little pots, 
as if this happens they get into a stunted state. 
Where there is a large conservatory to furnish, 
some of the old plants that have been cut back 
may with advantage be grown on to a consider¬ 
able size, as if given plenty of root space, say 
12-inch or 13-inch pots, and the points of the 
shoots pinched in once or twice between this 
and the end of June, they will make large 
bushes that will bear a profusion of bloom 
through the latter part of the summer, at which 
time, independent of their always acceptable 
flowers, they will help to give variety at a 
season when blooming greenhouse plants are 
not plentiful. 

Flower Garden. 


Bedding out. —With the exception of the 
most tender, such as Coleus and Altemantheras, 
all other kinds of summer bedding plants may 
now be planted, and in arranging them the less 
elaborate the designs and the quieter the colour¬ 
ing, the greater and more lasting will be the 
enjoyment of the garden. Another thing to 
avoid in the arrangements is excessive formality 
or flatness; this is easily prevented by using at 
regular intervals over the beds such kinds of 
standard plants as will best harmonise with the 
other plants in the beds, such as, for instance, 
standard variegated Abutilons in a bed of scarlet 
Pelargoniums, or the Fish-bone Thistle as a 
centre to a small circle of Lobelias, or standard 
Fuchsias in beds of dwarf-foliaged plants. 
These examples will suggest others, the only 
point to be borne in mind in selecting these 
’that they con- 
the plants 


standards being, as 
trast in both colour 



forming the groundwork of the bed. Yuccas, 
Australian Dracaenas, Grevilleas, tree Semper- 
vivums, and Acacia lophantha are all suitable 
for this purpose. Taking into account the 
shortness of our summer season and the conse¬ 
quent transitory character of flower gardening 
when tender plants are used, every effort should 
be made to do without this section, or at all 
events to use them as sparingly as possible. 
Unfortunately, the rich chocolate colour which 
we get in Coleus, and the bright purple and 
orange in Altemantheras, are not to be had in 
hardy plants; hence, if we must have these 
colours, and they are all but indispensable, we 
have no choice in the matter. Another con¬ 
sideration to be taken into account when making 
these arrangements is the appropriation or 
association of various classes of plants together. 
There is to my mind such an inexpressible 
degree of incongruity in mixing, for instance, 
succulents with any of the ordinary kinds of 
bedding plants, that one marvels that such an 
error should ever be perpetrated. Used in 
moderate proportion to other kinds of bedding 
plants succulents form an interesting feature in 
summer flower gardens, but under no circum¬ 
stances should they be mixed with Pelargoniums, 
Petunias, &c., but only with nearly allied plants, 
such as Mesembryanthemums, Kleinias, Eche- 
verias, and Sedums. 

General work. —The tying up of plants in 
mixed herbaceous borders, weeding, and filling 
up vacancies in the same, thinning out and 
planting out annuals and biennials, such as 
Stocks, Asters, Phloxes, Wallflowers, Pentste- 
mons, Antirrhinums, and Aquilegias, and the 
planting out of spring bedding plants and those 
that have been forced for cut flowers, are 
operations all of which must now receive 
attention. Indoors the principal work is giving 
abundant space to sub-tropicals, and moving out 
to sheltered spots all those that can safely be 
risked out, giving Altemantheras and Coleus full 
exposure to the atmosphere whenever the 
weather is favourable, and potting up the last 
batch of cuttings of Coleus and Iresine.—W. W. 

Fruit. 

Vines. —Where late houses have been brought 
on in accordance with former directions, all the 
best winter and early spring kinds may have a 
temperature of 70° to 75°. by night until after 
the fruit is set, when 65° to 68° by night, and 80° 
to 85° by day, with a flush of sunheat after 
closing, will keep them well in advance of the 
season, and allow time for cooler night treat¬ 
ment, by the admission of more air when the 
Grapes begin to colour. If Hamburghs are not 
likely to be in flower when shy setters require 
artificial fertilisation, a good supply of pollen 
may now be shaken into a box, which must be 
kept in a dry, warm place until it is wanted 
for use. Endeavour to keep the work well in 
hand in mid-season houses in which the Vines 
are now making rapid progress. Remove all 
surplus bunches from free setting kinds, discon¬ 
tinue stopping during the time they are in flower, 
and take advantage of early morning and dull 
days for thinning out the berries as soon as those 
which are properly set show signs of taking the 
lead. When all the bunches are thinned, give the 
inside borders a thorough watering with tepid 
liquid, mulch well with good manure, and en¬ 
courage robust growth by giving plenty of air 
through the early part of the day, and by closing 
with sunheat and moisture every afternoon. 
Early Grapes now ripe, or approching that stage, 
may have less fire-heat than they have hitherto 
received, but they must have sufficient to keep up 
a circulation of dry, warm air, and to prevent the 
temperature from falling much below 60° at 
night. Gradually reduce moisture, particularly to¬ 
wards night, but damp the walls and floors on fine 
mornings, and syringe the foliage copiously as 
the crop is cleared for the twofold purpose of 
cleansing it from dust and insects, and to induce 
a fresh break of laterals. 

Vegetables. 

We are now planting early Celery. Early 
Potatoes should be carefully hoed and earthed 
up at once. It is said by many that when not 
earthed they are earlier. Should that, however, 
be so, which I doubt, the large quantity of 
green-ended tubers occasioned through not being 
earthed diminishes their value; therefore, I 
always earth up my Potatoes, and get them 
early too. Fill up all vacancies in Seakale 


beds. What we use for this purpose are the 
roots of those taken up for forcing; cut the® 
into 6-inch lengths and plant them in good soil, 
and every piece will become a plant. Be careful 
to rub ail the eyes away but two. These root 
cuttings make fine strong plants during the 
summer. The first fine day go through Onions, 
Carrots, Parsnips, fcc. 3fy system is to use draw 
hoes instead of Dutch hoes, walking in one row 
and hoeing the other. In this way no footmarks 
are left, and all the weeds lie on the top of the 
ground ; in fact, all hoeing here is done in this 
manner. Asparagus beds will be greatly bene¬ 
fited by a small sowing of salt on the surface, 
I never saw salt injure Asparagus after the tops 
appear. It, however, kills all seedling weeds, 
and keeps the beds clean for the summer. 
Scarlet Runners sow now in shallow drills 
6 feet apart, and cover with burnt refuse. Early 
Broccoli may be planted between each row when 
ready. Dwarf Beans (Osborn's and Canadian 
Wonder) may also be sown at once. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDES. 

Outdoor garden. —Until bedding-out com¬ 
mences, there is really not much to be done 
beyond the ordinary routine of keeping Clras 
and gravel neat, and attending to the advance 
beds or patches of annuals. 

Vegetable garden.— In the vegetable de¬ 
partment keep all advancing crops clean ftoa 
weeds, and the surface constantly loosened hy 
the frequent use of the hoe. Peas must it 
staked before they get too tall, and in very dry 
weather they should have an occasional thorowk 
soaking. To this end it is always better to sow 
in shallow trenches, which may be readily 
flooded when required. Plant ent Lettuce from 
the seed beds, and keep them well watered. 
The dwarf or French Beans will be found about 
the most profitable crop for town gardens. These 
should be sown at once in rich and well worked 
soil. The Canadian Wonder is, in our experience, 
much the best variety for general purposes. It 
is much better to sow Beans where they are to 
grow, and thin out afterwards to the require; 
distance, though we have seen transplanted cues 
doing exceedingly well where the operation™ 
carefully performed. 

In the greenhouse keep all neat and cleat; 
things soon go woefully wrong if neglected only 
for a few days just now. The main point i> to 
see t-liat plenty of water is used, particularly 
during the prevalence of east winds and hot son. 
If the watering is cut at all short, red spider, 
thrips, and other pests are sure to appear, and 
once they gain a footing, it will be a difficult 
matter to dislodge them during the whole of the 
summer. 

All kinds of bedding plants should eow be har¬ 
dening off in cold frames, leaving the greenhoi® 
free for an assortment of foliaged and flowericj 
plants of the choicer sorts. Where the roof of 
the house is covered with a Vine, Fuchsias, 
Ferns, Begonias and other shade-loving plants 
will be found more suitable than Pelargonium-, 
Coleuses, and such plants as require a fuller er- 
posure to sunshine. Gloxinias are extremely 
beautiful objects when well grown, which is not 
so difficult a matter as some represent it to be; 
these also succeed admirably under theshadeef 
and with the same treatment as Vines. 

Seedling Gloxinias must now (if not already 
done) be pricked off carefully from the seed-pots 
or pans, and as soon as they commence to pet 
crowded in their new quarters should be potted 
singly into 4-inch pots, in which size they 
will bloom nicely the first season. We find then 
always do much better when pricked off into 
large flat boxes from the seed-pans, and potte- 
off when about 3 inches, or even somewhat less, 
across the leaves. Good fibrous peat, with a 
little loam, leaf-mould, and sand, is much tie 
best material for these lovely plants. 

Fuchsias must be kept growing rapidly inn 
warm, moist atmosphere, and repotted as often 
as required, to make really nice plants. Balsams 
need much the same treatment, but with more 
light and air. 

Azaleas and Camellias may now be repottcet 
if required, using good sandy peat, with a lithe 
loam if the plants are large. For the next three 
months these will succeed admirably in a 1 iucp, 
shade and the treatment of a Vinery will in ; 
duce them to make a strong, healthy growth, acd 
ensure a profusion of fine f owers next spring. 



Mat 12, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


119 


Preparation should now be made tor filling 
window boxes, balconies, etc., with flowering 
plants. It is still rather early, except in very 
favoured localities, to set the plants out, but have 
everything in readiness, so that no time be lost. 
^_ B. C. B. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 


BEEBERIS DARWINI. 

Tins is one of the most ornamental early spring- 
flowering shrubs that we have. It is suitable 
cither for a wall or for single specimens on the 
lawn. It has a good effect when planted at the 
back of wide herbaceous borders at intervals 
with other flowering or ornamental-leaved 
shrubs. Being an Evergreen, it is effective at all 
times, whether it is in flower or not. Plants of 
it have a grand effect in mixed shrubberies, 
issociated with Portugal and other Laurels, Box 
trees. Hollies, Lilacs, flowering Currants, and 
ither evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs. 
It would be difficult to describe the splendid 
.fleet which it produces when in full bloom, its 
irange-yellow flowers clothing the whole wall 
ind making a striking contrast with other plants, 
mch as Pyrus japonica, P. Maulei, Ribes sangui- 
leum, Kerria japonica, and other flowering 
ihrubs. Bushes of this plant have a grand 
:fleet; when they get large they often produce 
rigorous shoots, which rise above the rest con- 
iderably, and these, when in flower, give the 
jush a natural and graceful finish. If planted 
ipon the banks of lakes or ponds, they have a 
jTand appearance when large enough to hang 
>ver the water, more especially in spring when 
aden with flowers. This plant does well if 
ilanted upon islands, either mixed with other 
ilauts, or in groups by itself. It has a fine 
ppearance when in bloom early in the year, and 
vgain in autumn, when laden with coral-like 
jerries. 

Where covert for game is wanted in quantities, 
his is one of the best shrubs to plant. It does 
-iot dislike shade, and will grow as freely as the 
ommon Barberry so much used for forming 
•underwood in places where little else will grow; 

.-nd pheasants feed freely upon the berries when 
,ipe. Blanches of this shrub, cut before the 
"lowers are quite open, last a long time in per- 
cction when put into vases filled with water, or 
hin sprays may be mixed with other cut flowers, 
tfouog plants of it may either be raised from 
oed sown in rows 12 inches apart, or sown 
broadcast upon beds in March. The young 
eedlings should be transplanted into nursery 
ows the second autumn after sowing, or early 
•n winter. Young plants may also be grown 
'rom layers laid down early in the autumn. 
r3end some of the outside branches close to the 
freund, then partly ent them through with a 
harp knife, and peg them down with a strong 
wooden peg, covering them over with some fine 
oil; they will soon emit roots, and be ready to 
ie severed from the main branch during the 
following autumn, when they may be planted in 
nursery rows until properly established, and in 
She next autumn or winter they may be planted 
lin their permanent places. W. C. 


trellises, or, with a little attention to trimming, 
be grown as a hedge. As a permanent edging 
plant to large beds cut and trimmed as is usual 
with Box edgings, few plants are more suitable. 
The varieties aureus marginatus and argenteus 
marginatus are stronger growers, and have large 
and richly variegated foliage; the growth of 
both kinds is somewhat loose or straggling, a 
defect that is easily remedied by occasionally 
pinching out the points of the longest or unevenly 
developed shoots. Plants grown in bush or 
standard form make excellent and permanent 
centres for beds of high coloured Pelargoniums 
or dark foliaged plants, and for intermixing with 
bright green foliaged plants in the outer lines of 
shrubberies they are invaluable. They strike 
best from cuttings made of the well ripened 
wood of the current year’s growth; hence 
autumn is the time to propagate them. Light 
sandy loam or peat, the cuttings well firmed in 
it, and the pots plunged in ashes in a cold pit 
protected from frost, are all that is needed to 
ensure a successful result. 

The Flowering Currant (Ribcs\—Were 
this plant less common than it is, it would receive 
more attention, for nothing in early spring in 
our gardens can excel it as regards attractive¬ 
ness. The ordinary form is of course well known, 
but there are some varieties that will merit 
more extended cultivation, the chief of which 
is the double flowered, which not only differs 
in being double and of a deeper shade of colour, 
but has the desirable property of expanding a 



Flowering Currant Ribes songuincum). 

week or so later .than the ordinary form, thus 
considerably prolonging the season of the 
Flowering Currant. Remarkably deep tinted 
forms, almost a blood - red, are those called 
Billardieri and atro-rubens. Continental varieties 
are very desirable on account of their rich tints. 
Then there are a few lighter coloured varieties, 
and one named albida is almost a white, the 
flowers only being suffused yrith a delicate blush. 
Another called pallida is somewhat of a deeper 
shade than the last; and one named flavcscens, 
with a decided suffusion of a yellowish hue, is 
remarkably distinct from its compeers. All these 
forms well merit cultivation, and a beautiful 
effect may be obtained when judiciously inter¬ 
spersed with other shrubs. Most of these 
varieties may be obtained at nurseries in which 
good collections of trees and shrubs are culti¬ 
vated. 

Art in the garden. —Though no grower of 
Roses, I have read with great interest the corre¬ 
spondence in Gardening on the subject of 
Roses on Brier stocks, and from a purely artistic 
standpoint must agree with “ J. D. ” as to the 
decorative effect of standard Rose trees. But in 
his sweeping condemnation of formality of all 
kinds, " J. D. ” far overshoots the mark, and 
seems to forget that a decorative garden is, as 
the work of man, a pure work of ait, and as 
such differs essentially from purely natural 
growth, and is amenable to any treatment which 
man may devise. Let “ J. D." regard his own 
garden for a moment, and if it is a garden at 
all, and not merely a railed off piece of country, 
the hand of man will be everywhere apparent, and 
nature will be curbed and directed at his 
pleasure; indeed, is it not paradoxical in itself 
talk of “ cultivating ” a “wilderness.'’ The 


Magnolias. —These are now at their best, 
very tip being weighed down with large cup- 
’thaped flowers. M. conspicua, white inside and 
out, is rather the earliest. M. Soulangeana is 
beautifully white inside and purplish on the 
outside. These Magnolias should be planted as 
single specimens on the Grass in some sheltered 
recess backed up by dark evergreens. We have 
a large spreading tree of M. Soulangeana with 
some thousands of blooms on it; its branches 
rest on the turf, from which spring up Daffodils 
and other bulbs, and now a regular bed of lovely 
pink Cardamine is in full flower there; as these 
die away the foliage of the Magnolia becomes 
fully expanded, and covers all with a mantle of 
fresh verdure. A few Foxgloves with their 
towering spikes run up through the tips of the 
branches in summer, and look very pretty.—J. G. 

Euonymuses.—The variegated Japanese 
varieties of Euonymns are among the best of the 
many introductions of late years that can be 
effectively used for flower garden purposes, not 
their least recommendation being that they are 
all bnt quite hardy. The small leaved kind, radi- 
cans variegatus, is, in habit of growth, half 

tushy and half climbing, and can therefore I to__ _ _ _ _ 

'either be used as a coverin^for Jovj wal|gTa|i^>siibtle beauty of a wilderness is a thing which 


only time and nature unassisted can produce. 
Wilderness nature is one thing, and to touch 
it is to spoil it, but the cultivated garden, 
with its smooth walks, its lawns, its foun¬ 
tains, and its arbours, its trellises, and 
especial growths, has a beauty and a character of 
its own, and has its own charms for tho artist; 
witness the beautiful pictures by Tadema of 
possible ancient gardens. Formality is legiti¬ 
mate to any extent, but the artistic sensitiveness 
of the gardener is a sine qua non, and in 999 
cases out of 1000 is wanting. Bnt we are 
grateful to “ J. D." for what he has told us 
about own root Roses, and I confess I should 
much like to see his garden in the summer-time, 
for I can well believe that he has a beautiful 
garden to show. —Artist. [Wc cannot agree 
in the legitimacy of formality “ to any extent .” 
We know it has been and is yet a deadly foe 
to beauty in the garden. See Versailles, the 
Grand Trianon, the public gardens at Vienna, 
the central parts of the Crystal Palace gardens, 
the Royal Horticultural Gardens at Kensington. 
—Ed.]__ 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


SOMMER TREATMENT OF CAMELLIAS. 
Camellias as a rule will now be in full growth, 
and the quicker and more robnst they can be 
made to grow the better, as this will ensure a 
thorough ripening of the ycung wood before 
the short days set in, and be a great advantage 
to them at the blooming period. Nothing equals 
well developed, thoroughly matured wood for 
producing blooms abundantly and of the finest 
quality. 

Pruning. —In many instances this is neces¬ 
sary. We are often obliged to dc it, and in no 
stinted way. Some of our trees which are 
growing in a cool house became so close in 
growth last year that it was impossible to see 
into them or through them. As soon as they 
had finished blooming in spring, and just before 
they had got fairly into growth, we pruned 
great armfuls from each of them, so as to admit 
light, air, and sun into them, and since then 
they have gone on growing in a most satisfactory 
way. From some of the old shoots there are 
six and eight growths about a foot in length 
each, and they all look like bloom-beariDg 
wood. Had they not been pruned they would 
have been one intricate mass of shoots, with 
small chance of ripening properly; now their 
chances are much better. As a rule, it is now 
too late in the season to prune, but were I 
beginning to take Camellias in hand which 
would be benefited by pruning, I would even now 
be inclined to let daylight into them. This 
might check them for a Uttle time, but before 
the end of the season they would be in better 
blooming condition than if left too thick. The 
main growths need not be removed, but where 
there are many small weak branches clustering 
together many of them may safely be taken off. 
This is the first thing which should be seen to 
in beginning the summer culture of the Camellia, 
and, secondly, the 

Cleaning. —Where the leaves are close and 
the branches massed together, ordinary syringing 
may not have kept the foliage quite free from 
dirt and insects, bnt as soon as pruning is over 
a thorough cleansing must take place. The 
wood may be brushed with a hard hand-brush, 
and all the dirty leaves carefully sponged. Once 
thoroughly cleaned in this way, they may easily 
be kept in that condition by frequent syringings. 
Plants which may not want pruning should also 
be cleaned before growth has much advanced. 
Then comes 

Root attention. —Camellias are not bene¬ 
fited by having their roots upset annually; on 
the contrary, once they get into a thorough 
growing state they are better undisturbed for 
years, but they must be well supplied with 
water. It is of much importance that all the soil 
about the roots be in a sweet, moist condition 
before growth begins. Without this their pro¬ 
gress will never be satisfactory. Those in pots 
should be plunged in some material at this time, 
as plunging lessens the chances of their becoming 
at any time too dry. Soot water may be given 
at the roots once weekly with advantage, and 
from the time the shoots can first be seen uni i I 
the bloom buds are visible they should 1 o 
syringed overhead once or twice daily according 
to the brightness of the weather. Respecting tho 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Mat 12, 1883. 


Temperature in which Camellias should 
make their growth, there are great differences of 
opinion, some putting their plants into a Vinery 
or Peach house, but ours are never out of the 
house in which they bloom, a structure where 
artificial heat is never introduced except to keep 
out frost. In some cases much shade is applied, 
and in others none at all, and under both modes 
of management the plants succeed, but our ex¬ 
perience causes us to prefer no shading. When 
once subjected to shade, it takes careful treat¬ 
ment to harden them up to stand the sun-heat 
again, and a little of this is necessary in order 
to ripen the wood well in autumn. Aftergrowth 
has been completed, and it is seen that the 
flower-buds arc well set, syringing may cease, 
and water may be more sparingly applied at the 
roots, at the same time avoid drying them off in 
any way or withholding water until the roots 
or leaves shrivel. Plenty of air should also be 
given them at that period ; anything like a close, 
moist atmosphere and much shade must not be 
encouraged. Flower-buds falling off before they 
open is a complaint often heard ; but this is only 
the result of some severe check or change in the 
state of the soil or atmosphere. Immature wood 
never holds its buds or opens them so freely or 
well as that which is hard and sun-ripened, and 
this all should do their utmost to secure from 
now until well into the autumn. C. 

POTTING AZALEAS AND CAMELLIAS. 

In looking through several amateurs’ gardens 
lately I was reminded that Azaleas and Camellias 
are, as a rule, in very poor condition in such 
places, at least those that have been any length 
of time on the premises. The healthy little 
plants brought from the nursery, if left undis¬ 
turbed at the roots, usually flower fairly well for 
two or three seasons, but as soon as they require 
repotting they begin to decline in health, and in 
very rare cases does one find the plants really 
flourishing. 

Azaleas and Camellias require ample drainage 
—this is the first consideration in repotting. 
Take clean pots, also clean potsherds, place the 
largest at the bottom, and medium-sized ones 
next, over this a layer of smaller ones. For 
Azaleas only the best fibrous peat is of any use, 
and for Camellias the same material, and some 
rich, fibrous turf, that has been packed up just 
long enough to kill the Grass ; pull this to pieces, 
but do not sift it, place the roughest soil over 
the crocks, and then transfer the plant to its 
fresh pot. Large shifts at one time are not 
advisable : young plants in 5-inch pots may be 
placed in 6-inch or 7-inch ones, which will allow 
of a nice layer of fresh soil being placed all round 
the ball of earth, but before doing this the old ball 
of earth should be divested of any inert soil, 
and the roots carefully loosened when they are 
very firmly matted. The new soil must be very 
firmly rammed down with a blunt stick or lath, 
so that the new soil is made as firm as the old 
bill of earth itself. Allow about half an inch at 
the top for water, and as soon as potted and set 
iu position for growing, give a good Boaking of 
water from a fine-rosed pot to thoroughly saturate 
the entire mass of soil. The plants should be 
shaded from bright sunshine, and syringed over¬ 
head as soon as the sun declines, and be shut up 
with a brisk, moist heat. Do not over-water at 
the roots, but never let the soil get quite dry. 
Under favourable conditions, both Azaleas and 
Camellias will make rapid growth, and as soon 
as the young shoots get firm, flower buds for the 
ensuing year will be formed, and as soon as these 
begin to plump up, the plants must be gradually 
hardened off by admitting plenty of air, and in 
August they may be placed out-of-doors to ripen 
their growth. A cool, moist bed of coal ashes 
behind a wall to screen the plants from mid¬ 
day sun is the best of positions for them, daily 
attention as to watering being all they will 
require until the first week in October, when the 
pots should be washed and the plants set in 
their winter quarters, which should be cool, light, 
and thoroughly ventilated. Camellias will 
flower naturally from Christmas onwards, but 
Azaleas require more heat to cause them to 
flower in the winter months, but by judicious 
hastening of early-flowering varieties, and retard¬ 
ing late ones, a succession of flower may be 
kept, up for nearly half the year. 

Gosport. James Groom. 


Hanging 1 

fng the beauty 


;.—The best wayof show- 
kinds of I trailing plants 


G any kinds ofl traili 

5 gle 


to the best advantage is by means of hanging 
baskets ; the growth falls over the edges, and 
shows the flowers to much better effect than 
when ranged on ordinary plant stages or shelves 
below the lineof sight. I may mention Buch plants 
as Ivy-leaved Geraniums, Tradescantias, Mesem- 
bryanthemums, Lobelias, Thunbergias of various 
sorts, Tropmolums both double and single. Petu¬ 
nias, and Achimenes. In winter there is nothing 
more beautiful than baskets filled with Epyphyl- 
lum truncatum, or the Creeping Cactus, and tor 
spring, bulbs of various sorts may be utilised with 
excellent effect, making a groundwork of the 
hardy Stonecrops, or Sedums, such as Sedum 
lividum, or the beautiful variegated Sedum acre 
elegans, as these supply what bulbs are deficient 
in—namely, foliage; but for baskets that are filled 
for an all-the-year-round effect, there is nothing 
as a groundwork equal to Selaginella denticulata, 
as this Boon covers both top and bottom of the 
basket, forming a globe of verdant green. The 
way to fill such baskets is to take some rough 
green Moss and line the basket, placing rough 
soil over it until one-third of the basketi s filled, 
then draw some of the trailing plants t hrough 
the wires and fill into till half full with Moss and 
rich soil, and on this place the plants, the droop¬ 
ing ones at the edges, and the most erect growing 
kinds, such as Fuchsias, in the centre. Fill up 
around them with good rich soil, and cover the 
surface with Moss, and hang in a warm, shaded 
house.— J. Groom, Gosport. 

Striking cuttings of plants In water. 

—Perhaps t is not generally known that a num¬ 
ber of plants may be propagated by cuttings in 
water; such, however, is the case, and I will de¬ 
scribe how it is done, and give a list of those 
plants that I have been successful with. Procure 
a few one-ounce or two-ounce phials, and let them 
be filled up to within half an inch of their 
necks with clear rain water, insert the cuttings, 
which must not touch the bottoms of the bottles, 
and place them in a sunny window or a green¬ 
house, or, what is better, plunge them in a hot¬ 
bed, where a steady temperature of 70° or 75° 
exists. Most of the plants named below will 
emit roots in from four to twenty-one days’ time. 
I have observed, as a general rule, that the 
rooting process goes on best and with the most 
vigour in May, June, and July. The Melon; Cu¬ 
cumber, Ac., in a week or ten days : Calliopsis 
lanceolata, fourteen days; Heliotropium peru- 
vianum, fourteen days; Gloxinia and Gesneris, 
leaves with buds at the base, or cuttings at a 
joint, gradually; Petunia, about ten days; 
Salvias, quickly ; Justicia speciosa and carnea, 
readily; Turners trioniflora will root and flower 
quickly; Aloysiacitriodora,fourteen days; Mela- 
stoma coerulea, in a few days ; Thunbergia alata 
(cuttings of two upper joints), very soon; 
Coronilla glauca takes some time; Erythrina 
laurifolia and Dahlias after a certain period, pre¬ 
vious to which detachable granulations inter¬ 
spersed with air bubbles form round and near 
the heel; these rise to the surface like little 
masses of pith, finally the radicles protrude. I 
do not think that the old modes of propagation 
are to be discarded or discontinued ; still, there 
is one great advantage which attends the mode 
of propagation by water cuttings, in so far as 
tho minutest fibres are not injured by removal, 
and provided ordinary care be used in placing 
the plant, first in very light soil with a little 
silver sand about its roots, there will not be any 
shrinking or failure. The cuttings when taken 
should be in a tender state, not woody, and I 
think that the method applies chiefly to the 
tender species of plants.—A. H. C. Watson, 
Copthornc , Sussex. 

Fuchsias for autumn.— In order to 
have nice little plants for blooming late in 
autumn, cuttings should be struck now. Put 
them in sharp, sandy soil, and keep them for a 
week or two under a hand-light or bell-glass in 
any house or cold frame where they can have 
shade and be kept moist by an occasional syring¬ 
ing, and they will soon strike root. The shoots 
that form the best cuttings are those that are 
strong and short-jointed. As soon as rooted it 
will be necessary to pot them on at once in order 
that they may have no check. For growing 
Fuchsias nothing answers better than rich fibry 
loam with a little leaf-soil or very rotten manure 
added. In this they should be potted somewhat 
loosely and kept in a close pit or frame to give 
them a start. As soon as they get well hold of 
the soil they may at once be moved to a shady 


situation out-of-doors, as though the growth 
will not be so rapid, what they make there will 
be shorter and firmer, and compact little plants 
that flower freely are always the most valuable 
for general decorative purposes, as they come in 
for vases in rooms and window embellishment, 
purposes for which small Fuchsias are specially 
well adapted. To keep the roots uniformly' 
moist when the plants are grown out-of-door?, 
it is a good plan to plunge the pots in littery 
straw or some other non-conducting material, 
which should be wetted from time to time by 
watering the Fuchsias over-head after the drying 
heat of the day. This damping will refresh then 
greatly and help to keep them clean, as well is 
assist them in their growth, and to make them 
compact and symmetrical, they should be stopped 
once by having the points of the side shoots 
nipped out, when they will soon branch and 
form perfect little pyramids, a shape which is 
the most suitable for Fuchsias. Plants raised 
from cuttings now and treated in the manne 
here specified will not only be most valuable fe 
the autumn, but they will be of great use for 
starting early to make compact specimens the 
following spring.—S. 

Plants for back walls.— Habrothamnci 
elegans and Cestrnm aurantiacum do wet 
on the back wall of a conservatory. The Eabrr- 
thamnus is scarcely ever out of bloom, and tie 
Oestrum flowers freely for a considerable tin* 
in the late summer and autumn. To do thee 
justice they should be planted out, but if then 
is not room for this, they must have good-sire: 
pots and be regularly supplied with maim 
water when their roots get full hold of the sou 
otherwise the quantity of flowers forthcooui' 
will be proportionally reduced. 

Propagating Double Primulas--1 
should like to state the way in which I bxu 
been successful with double Primulas, as it n; 
not be generally known. When the plants bn 
done (lowering I pack some damp Moss tw: 
the stem and side shoots, keep them in a moL- 
situation in a gentle heat, and in a few wteh 
the Moss is full of white fibrous roots, when tb 
shoots may be parted and potted off at onct - 
T. W. H. 

Niootiana afflnla.—This is an univena 1 
favourite wherever seen, and is equally at boo? 
in the conservatory and in the cottager’s window 
The elegance of its flowers delights, its peifor; 
is unique and very grateful, and the vagaries of 
opening and shutting its blooms are a surprise 
to all. As a tender annual nothing can excel it 
for it blooms and blooms from early summer unrl 
late in autumn, and if taken up no doubt wonil 
grow again next season. The greatest characters 
tic of this plant has, however, yet to be told. Tbs 
roots, of which there is a large supply, prodoct 
young plants in the same manner as the Musket 
Anemone japonica The Tobacoo pipe-like root? 
laid underneath the soil in a warm place sow 
yield an abundance of small plants, bnt wbetic 
these will grow equally robust as those raise! 
from seed time alone will Ebow,—W. H. C. 


Crickets and cockroaches.— I h»n 

cleared houses of thousands of these pests in > 
single night with a 6d. packet of powder I got 
from Townson & Co., of Bowdon. After sprink¬ 
ling a little on the floor at night I never sav 
them again. To growers of Cucumbers, &c, k 
is a great boon, and it is quite harmless w 
domestic animals.— W. Richardson. 

Fainting iron fences. —These are usually 
painted green, which is supposed to be the bed 
colour from a landscape point of view, because 
least discernible, showing no boundary line K 
arrest the eye and limit the extent of the place 
on the contrary, the whole surroundings this 
fenced as far as the eye can reach appear lo b? 
one undivided whole ; but although green is th< 
best colour to give that effect, it is about tb 
least enduring; before the season is far gom 
it fades and looks as if it had been put oi 
for years. This year we have painted our fence i 
white, and where too long a stretch is seen o[ 
them at a time the colour is certainly objectior ■ 
able, but where the fence loses itself behind l 
tree or juts out and in among shrub6, or appeal 5 
on the top of a hill and loses itself again in i 
hollow, to be seen hereafter in the distance, : t 
is quite in harmony with the landscape, and th s 
effect in contrast with the tender leafage at tb a 
present time is very cheerful. Straight fenc< s 



Mat 12, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTltAlED 


121 



should never be painted white ; they are often 
vety objectionable in themselves, and to paint 
them white only aggravates the evil. Before 
using this colonr on any fences they should all 
he gone over and put into thorough repair; 
curves should be well defined, as the white makes 
any little defect in that or other ways very easily 
seen.—A. M. 


THE WILD GARDEN. 

The annexed illustration is taken from a recent 
edition of “The Wild Garden. ” It was felt that 
the use of illustrations, of which there are over 
ninety, would help to make both the aims and 
suggestions of the book clearer. It was equally 
desirable to show by illustration some of the 
mo6t valuable types of 
thevast stores of material 
which may be used in 
the Wild Garden. Of this 
term there has been 
some misunderstanding, 
and it is thus referred to 
in the preface. 

“ It is applied essenti¬ 
ally to the placingof per¬ 
fectly hardy exotic plants 
in places and under con¬ 
ditions where they will 
become established and 
take care of themselves. 

It has nothing to do with 
the old idea of the “ wil¬ 
derness, " though it may 
be carried out in connec¬ 
tion with that. It does 
not necessarily mean the 
picturesque garden, fora 
garden may be highly 
picturesque, and yet in 
every part the result of 
ceaseless care. What 
it does mean is best ex¬ 
plained by tbe winter 
Aconite flowering under 
a grove of naked trees in 
February; by the Snow¬ 
flake growing pipfusely 
in the meadows by the 
Thames side; by the pe¬ 
rennial Lupine dyeingan 
islet with its purple in 
a Scotch river; and by 
the Apennine Anemone 
stainingan English wood 
blue before the bloom¬ 
ing of our Blue-bells. 

Multiply these instances 
a thousandfold, illus¬ 
trated by many different 
types of plants and hardy 
■ limbers from countries 
as cold and colder than 
our own, and one may- 
get a just idea of the 
wild garden. Some have 
erroneously represented 
it as allowing a garden 
to run wild, or sowing 
annuals promiscuously; 
whereas it studiously 
avoids meddling with 
the garden proper at 
all, except at attempt¬ 
ing the improvements 
of bare shrubbery bor¬ 
ders in the London parks 
and elsewhere; but these 
are waste spaces, not 
gardens. 

“I wish it to be kept distinct in the mind from 
the various important phases of hardy plant 
growthin groups, beds, and borders,in which good 
culture and good taste may produce many happy 
effects; distinct from the rock garden or the 
borders reserved for choice hardy flowers of all 
kinds; from the best phase of the sub-tropical 
garden—that of growing hardy plants of fine 
form; from the ordinary type of spring garden; 
and from the gardens, so to say, of our beau¬ 
tiful native flowers in our woods and wilds. How 
far the wild garden may be carried out as an aid 
to, or in connection with, any of the above in 
the smaller class of gardens, can be best decided 
on the spot in each case. In the larger gardens, 
where, on the outer fringe of the lawn, in grove, 
park, copse, or by woodlan' 


there is often ample room, fair gardens and 
wholly new and beautiful aspects of vegetation 
may be created by its means. ” 


Ivy for corridors.— Inquiries are often 
made as to what kind of creepers to plant in 
corridors or covered ways where light is deficient. 
After trying all manner of subjects for such 
positions, I find that Ivy excels them all for the 
length of time during which it will keep fresh 
and green where few other plants would even 
live. We have along the entire south front of a 
house a covered way or corridor with a balcony 
above ; consequently the lower rooms that open 
into the corridor only get the light that comes 
through the arches in front, and these are 


Colonics of N&rciuus, '.Broad-leaved Saxifrage, 4c., to rough'shrubbery. (From 'The Wild Garden. 


covered with Magnolias and a selection of choice 
creepers. This corridor was originally used as a 
plant room in winter and promenade, the arches 
being closed by means of movable lights. Ivy 
was planted to train over the roof, but in course 
of time the corridor was not required for plants, 
except on special occasions, and of late years 
the Ivy has had all the space to itself, and a 
really beautiful effect it has, forming, as it does, 
a bower of living foliage. The only attention it 
requires is an occasional pruning, plenty of water 
at the roots, and above all a good deluging over¬ 
head now and then with the garden engine to 
dislodge insects and dust. Any one having a 
similar place to cover should, instead of attempt¬ 
ing the growth of ordinary creepers, devote their 
attention to Ivy. —J. G. L. 


FLOWERS AND PLANTS IN ROOMS. 

A great bowl filled with Sweet Brier and single 
Poet's Narcissus fills the room with sweetness, and 
though there are in the same room a large Gardenia 
and a bouquet of Stephanotis, the Sweet Brier is 
the winner in the competition of sweet smells. 
A bunch of Parrot Tulips, some all yellow, some 
yellow flamed with scarlet, are in a tall Dutch 
jar; they are of high decorative value, brilliant 
in colour, and fine in form, with their richly fringed 
and jagged petals tossed about in a lawless 
fashion, thrown across one another or flung right 
open ; some have stalks standing stiffly upright, 
but often twisted about in a way that mAes it 
easy to dispose them gracefully over the edge of 
the jar. An upright glass holds a large bunch of 
Narcissus biflorus with 
pale green foliage of the 
yellow Day Lily. Alpine 
Auriculas are valuable as 
cut flowers, lasting in 
good condition quite a 
week, and retaining their 
sweetness to the end. 
From their varieties of 
colour many beautiful 
combinations may be 
made, such as pale yel¬ 
low, delicate lilac and 
white, and lilac blotched 
with purple; another of 
tawny and copper colour¬ 
ed with crimson and deep 
maroon, observing that it 
is generally best to keep 
those together that have 
the same coloured cen¬ 
tral ring, whether white 
or yellow. A white china 
basket has blue Pansies, 
pale and dark, from 
vigorous border sorts; 
the shoots of flowers and 
leaves are cut whole, and 
hold themselves much 
better than any arrange¬ 
ment of the flowers and 
foliage cut separately. 
With the Pansies are 
some long-stalked single 
blooms of Clematis mon- 
tana, and a well-chosen 
spray of Clematis with 
short - stalked flowers 
winds round the handle 
and droops over the front 
of the basket. A storm- 
broken branch of Apple 
gives material for filling 
a brass dish 15 inches 
across; the twigs of wide 
open flowers are in a 
large group towards the 
oentre and one side, the 
rest is of the rosy buds 
and half-open flowers; 
between and among the 
blossoms, not stiffly ar¬ 
ranged, but as if grow¬ 
ing up here and there, 
are shoots of the highly 
polished and brilliant 
green young leaves of 
Ivy. From the greenhouse 
come blooms of a charm¬ 
ing rose coloured Ixia, 
Lady Slade; these are 

__ placed quite alone in a 

slender and fragile-look- 

__ ing Venetian glass. An 

oval silver basket is arranged with pale pink 
and rosy Indian Azaleas ; these Azaleas are 
still among our most valuable pot plants. 

G. J. 

ROSES. 


rod tyalks or drives, i 

Google 


STANDARD ROSES. 

“ W. G. Jewett" makes a practical remark 
when he says that “for one locality where 
standards would do well, there are a dozen 
where they would not," and “ J. D.” is quite as 
practical when he tells us that standards should 
have a bare space all round covered with fat 
manure in winter, to be forked in in the spring. 

I would like to add that, in some localities, for 
one standard that does well there are a dozen 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 
















122 


GAEDEJVI.NG ILLUSTRATED 


[Mat 12, 1883. 


that do not. I have had a good deal to do with 
this “ dozen ” on a cold, clay soil, and the “ one " 
succeeded only because it happened to receive 
the very treatment which “ J. D.” says is neces¬ 
sary for successful flowering. So much seems to 
depend on soil, locality, and exposure, that I 
sometimes wonder that more frequent and dis¬ 
tinct reference is not made to all three in giving 
directions for growing Roses. There are some 
loams in sheltered situatioiis where it seems as 
if Roses only required to be stuck in the ground 
to get them to send out strong, bright green 
shoots, and there may be other soils not far off 
in which it is hopeless to try to get a Rose to 
grow without making a radical change in their 
constitution. It would save amateurs a great 
deal of vexation if this were more distinctly 
pointed out to them, and if they were told not 
only where to grow, but how; and also where not 
to grow Roses. 

About twenty years ago, I tried standards on a 
lawn with a good sout hern exposure and the proper 
shelter. Each plant stood in a small circular 
plot about 2 feet in diameter, and they all regu¬ 
larly received a fair share of good stable manure. 
They did not succeed well, but a friend, whose 
garden was not a quarter of a mile distant, got 
plants from the nursery, and also collected 
young Briers, and planted and budded them 
himself, and he grew beautiful Roses for years. 

I got my budded Briers from the nursery, and I 
only succeeded with one plant; but it stood in 
the centre of a circular plot 8 feet in diameter, 
ih which every year a large barrow-load of 
sappy manure was emptied by the gardener for 
some wise purpose of his own. It grew well 
and flowered profusely for eight years, giving out 
strong healthy branches from the top and a 
crowd of Brier suckers from the roots, till it was 
removed to a more favourable situation at the coast, 
where it could be kept at less expense to its 
owner. I have not got the name of that Rose, 
but it was a flat-faced flower with recurved 
petals of dark crimson. I have had some ex¬ 
perience, too, of the “dozen” on the Manetti 
stock, and the result has been that now I al-' 
ways hasten by deep planting to get them con¬ 
verted into “ own roots ” as fast as possible, in 
order to prevent them from converting them¬ 
selves into pure Manettis.—P. R. 


Own-root Roses.— I have read with great 
interest “ J. D.’s ” article upon this subject, and 
I must say that his opinion and my own are the 
same. I have had to deal with Roses both on 
their own roots and upon the various stocks em¬ 
ployed, grown or planted in heavy and light soils. 
Every one of experience knows how troublesome 
the Brier is upon shallow soils with its suckers, 
but in the case of own-rooted Roses their suckers 
become the most valuable part of the plant. I 
hope before long that we shall be able to ex¬ 
change pots of rooted Rose cuttings with one 
another without any difficulty. I myself can 
root them as easily as Geraniums.—T ybno. 

9652. —■ Mareohal Niel Roses not 
flowering 1 .— The cause of the Marshal Niel 
Rose not flowering is that it was planted after 
it flowered last year, and has too much root 
room. It has kept on growing, and did not rest 
as it should have done. The Marshal Niel Rose 
should be kept rather dry during the time it 
rests, otherwise the wood will not ripen, and 
instead of flower-buds, weak, straggly shoots are 
produced.—J. Mackay. 


FRUIT. 

Thinning Apples and mulching — 

Few people attempt to thin Apples; indeed it 
would hardly be possible to do so in the case of 
large orchard trees. The consequence is, when¬ 
ever a really favourable season comes, and every 
Apple that sets remains to swell, the fruit is not 
only inferior in quality, but the trees are 
frequently seriously injured. Sometimes when 
dry weather sets in the crop gets naturally 
thinned, and even when this does not happen, 
though it might not be possible to thin the fruit, 
it would not be much trouble to mulch the trees. 
This might be done even with trees on Grass ; a 
good dressing of rotten manure spread under the 
trees, nearly as far as the branches extend, 
would be of immense benefit, and dry weather 
should not be waited for; on the contrary, let 
every tree carrying a heavy load be mulched by 
the end of June^or beginning of July. The 

Digitized by GOOgle 


manure would not injure the Grass, as it would 
soon mellow down, the Grass would grow through 
it, and the manure, or the essence of it, would 
be washed down to the roots and help to keep 
up the stamina of the tree at a time when some 
extra support was much needed. The fruit on 
all trained trees might, indeed should, be thinned 
whenever the crop is too heavy ; this if regularly 
attended to would be one means of maintaining 
the trees in a constantly fertile condition. Of 
course in thinning the smaller and inferior fruits 
only should be removed, and the best time to 
perform the operation would be, in average 
seasons, about the end of June or beginning of 
July. The mulching should under no circum¬ 
stances be neglected, as it not only benefits the 
present crop, but helps to keep the feeding-roots 
near the surface, and this is a matter of primary 
importance. 

Manuring fruit trees. —Do not manure 
your fruit borders, is frequently the advice given 
to inquirers; under certain circumstances the 
advice is good, such as in newly made borders 
of rich turf, strong soils, and in low situations ; 
but to follow such advice on light sandy soils or 
porous gravelly subsoils and high localities would 
be wrong, and would lead to nothing but dis¬ 
appointment. Under these circumstances, good 
rotten manure I will not say’ may be used to 
advantage, but should be used liberally for fruit 
trees of every kind, and especially for 1’each 
trees.—F. 

Strawberry La Groaee Suoree. — I 

find this to be one of the best varieties for a 
second early crop to come in after Vicomtesse 
Hfiricart de Thury and Keen’s Seedling, still the 
most reliable for very early forcing. La Crosse 
Sucrfie is a distinct variety, with large, some¬ 
what sparse foliage, and it also keeps to one 
good crown, and sends up one or two large bold 
trusses of flowers that produce fine, brilliantly- 
coloured fruit on long footstalks. It is 
apparently rather a tender variety for out-of- 
door culture, for we have usually a good many 
gaps in beds of it in spring. Where, however, 
pot Strawberries are largely grown, it is in¬ 
dispensable, and as it makes runners slowly 
compared with some robust varieties, it is a sort 
that requires more than ordinary care bestowed 
on it to keep up a sufficient supply of plants.— 
J. G. L. 

Grafting Apple trees.— It might, not be 
generally known that the grafting of Apple 
trees can be successfully performed when they 
aro out in leaf, even if there be no scions in 
store. Take those shoots (growing on the tree) 
for grafts that have dormant buds at the sides. 
Remove the tufts of leaves at the ends, insert 
in the usual way, and in due time the buds will 
break at every eye.—L. C. K. 

Scale and mealy bug on Pear tree. 
—I tender my best thanks to “A. D." and “Celer 
et Audax,’’ for their suggestions, some of which 
I have already ineffectually tried. The truth is, 
there is no more prolific or persistent garden pest 
than the mussel or oyster scale,whether on Apples 
or Pears (I have had it on both). I have counted 
rarely fewer than twenty-four eggs in each scale. 
Four years ago I cut several branches off an 
infected Marie Louise Pear tree, and grafted it 
with new varieties, at the same time carefully 
painting the trunk and remaining branches with 
unmixed paraffin oil. The gTafts are now 4 feet 
or 5 feet long, in full bearing, but grievously in¬ 
fested with the same scale, although I repainted 
with Fowler’s insecticide two years ago. “ A. D." 
will hardly expect me to believe that my non¬ 
success proves my Pear cultivation to be the 
“worst possible,” for if he will honor witli a visit 
my manse garden (300 feet above sea level), I 
will show him twenty seven varieties of Pears, 
from Summer Doyenne to Easter Beurrfi, in such 
condition that I venture to hope will win even 
his approval, besides not a few most successful 
rehabilitations of very old, much-cankered fellows 
planted by my predecessor seventy-five years ago. 
For mealy bug, I found a preparation of train oil, 
two parts, to one part of spirit of tar and one of 
turpentine, “ a perfect cure.” For leaf fungus I 
recommend Fowler's insecticide, with a dash of 
sulphur and black soap. Paint before the buds 
start to swell close up to it, but do not paint over 
it.—M. H. Graham, Roxburghshire, N.B. 


Vol- I. “ Gardening ” 1b out of print, and we are 
therefore unable to further supply either separate copies 
or bound volumes. 


VEGETABLES. 


Sowing late Peas —I find that Peas sown 
on June 1 are much more satisfactory than tbwe 
sown later in the month ; the latter blossom and 
form plenty of pods, but do not fill up so well 
as those sown on the date just named. Fron 
repeated experiments I find June 1 quite late 
enough to sow for main crops of Peas, from 
which we always keep gathering as long as the 
weather remains mild enough for them to maie 
any growth. Last year we sowed our main 
latest crop on June 2 in trenches, well manured, 
as if for Celery, scattering the seed thinly all 
over the trench, so as to make a broad row. The 
plants were staked as soon as high enough, and 
the soil between the rows, which were 6 fee 
apart, was covered with long stable litter to 
retain moisture, the soil being very dry at that 
date. By means of copious waterings a rapid 
and luxuriant growth was the result, and they 
produced a fine crop, which lasted as long i& 
green Peas were procurable out-of-doors. The 
sorts which we grow principally are Ne Plus 
Ultra and Champion of England, both kinds 
difficult to surpass either for quantity, quality, 
or continuous bearing. Ne Plus Ultra is an 
especial favourite in the kitchen from its dee^ 
green colour, and if confined to one sort Ishould 
prefer it to all others. For late tall Peas good 
supports are necessary, and I find Chestnut 
branches much more durable than Hazel, as they 
are perfectly sound the second year, while Has*, 
only lasts the season.—J. G. L. 

Oattell's Eclipse late Broccoli —This 
is one of the most trustworthy of late white 
Broccoli for becoming fit for use in May. Al¬ 
though our locality is what may be called mild, 
we cannot depend upon a full supply of Cauli¬ 
flowers until the end of the month: consequent!? 
a really late Broccoli forms a valuable aid, a? 
regards maintaining the supply, where either 
Cauliflowers or Broccoli are in request the rear 
round. Last year we sowed Oattell's Eclipse 
and other late sorts the first week in May and 
as soon as the plants were large enough to 
handle, they were pricked out in beds 3 inches 
apart, and planted out finally aa fast as crops of 
Peas, Beans, Ac., could be cleared off the groued 
Some were put out between rows of Potatoes 
planted at wide intervals to accommodate inter¬ 
mediate cropping. No fresh manure was added 
in any case, hut the surface of the soil w 
kept frequently stirred. They made nice sturdy 
plants, with heads close to the ground, and, 
favoured by a mild winter, we had no losses. In 
February a little short manure was spread be¬ 
tween the rows and lightly forked in; since then 
they have made rapid progress, and very fee 
heads have been the result. In the case of ail 
the early kinds, and even already of some of the 
reputed late 6orts, a goodly percentage has beer 
cut; Cattell's Eclipse, however, still shows ur- 
broken ranks, with abundance of foliage to keep 
the heads from getting discoloured by exposure 
As the sun gets power, it is necessary to break 
the leaves down thickly over the heads to keep 
them perfectly white, for although a sulphur- 
coloured Broccoli may be quite as good, pore 
white heads are always most highly prired 
either in market or for private use.—-J. G. L. 

Late Dwarf Curled Borecole.-Thh 
has again proved an invaluable vegetable, as it 
continued to yield a supply of the most tender 
and delicately flavoured Sprouts after most other 
sprouting members of the Brassica family were 
over, although we had an abundance of green 
vegetables all through the winter months. The 
bitter March winds completely stripped the 
gardens of everything at all succulent or tender; 
all the Cabbages that were rushing up to flower 
were completely killed. But. with a return of 
more genial weather, the hardy Borecole, or Kale, 
of which there are now many selections (but I 
prefer the dwarf), soon began to furnish nice 
dishes of Sprouts, and promise to do so until the 
spring Cabbages come in. But these are 
unusually late owing to the check they received 
in March, when, instead of making progress, thev 
were as a rule nearly defoliated. The culture of 
this excellent vegetable is of the simplest kind; 
a quarter of an ounce of seed sown at once will 
yield enough plants to supply an ordinary 
family. The best way to sow this, or in fact an) 
other seeds of the kind, is to draw shallow drills 
about 6 inches apart, and half an inch deeps 
shake the seed in regularly, and cover with fine 


May 12, 1883] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


123 


tail. If birds abound, put a fish net over at once, 
,r!i as soon as the seedlings appear, dust with 
toot, lime, and coal ashes; the net may be 
•emoved as soon as the plants get their second 
lair of leaves, and with a very small hoe keep 
he soiled stirred between the rows, and as soon 
is large enough, plant out on deeply cultivated 
>at not over-manured soil 2 feet apart each way, 
ir they may be planted between rows of Potatoes. 
Should there be no position, however, where they 
•an be finally planted out at once, transplant 
hern on fresh soil 6 inches apart, and they will 
nake sturdy plants, and may be safely planted 
jut finally any time in September as ground is 
•acated by early crops. This is one of the 
lardiest and best flavoured of all the Brassica 
ribe, the tops being used as a mid-winter, and 
he Sprouts as a spring vegetable.— James 
Jboom, Gosport. 

9667.— Gourds and Vegetable Mar- 

•O WS.— As a rule.these very grossgrowingplants 
leed a heap or bank of soil and manure, or of 
iccumulated garden refuse, to enable them to 
develop their fruits to the utmost capacity, 
there such assistance cannot be provided, holes 
hould be made in the garden 3 feet over and 18 
ucbes in depth, and into these be worked, mix- 
ng with the soil as returned to the holes, a good 
•arrowload of rotten manure. Tho roots, how- 
vcr, will not confine themselves to the hole, and 
he richer the surrounding soil the better, 
-tourds and Marrows need ample feeding, but if 
xcessively large fruits are required, the number 
•er must be reduced to two or three to a plant; in 
act it is quite enough for any one plant to do 
o mature but. one of those monster Gourds or 
'umpkina sometimes seen. These things are, 
lowever, mostly valueless, and it is far better to 
tow Marrows or some of the more useful edible 
iourds, such as the Ohio Squash, for instance, 
s in such case the dinner-table is provided with 
. delicious tender vegetable daily for a long 
cason. It is found good practice to stop the 
mg, robust shoots of Marrow plants occasion- 
lip, as tending to make the plants more fruitful. 
Vhilst opinions vary as to which is the best llar- 
ow, it is certain the most favoured kind for 
narket is the long.ribbed white. Accumulations 
f garden refuse answer a double use : when 
rst employed in the bulk to grow marrows, and 
i the following winter may bo spread on the 
oil as useful manure.—D. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

9637.— Watering crops. —Except during 
eally hot, parching weather, it is doubtful 
vhether the watering of ordinary garden crops is 
lesirable, and even then it should not be set 
bout unless it can be continued systematically 
ill the crops are matured or the drought has 
assed off. The great danger which arises from 
urface watering in hot weather is that the 
moisture given being of but a moderate 
liaracter may attract the roots to the surface, 
ind thus should the moisture under hot sunshine 
>rove insufficient for the purpose, the roots would 
jum and snfier, thus resulting in more harm 
ban good. Where possible, and watering is 
ibsolutely needful, it is best to mulch the suface 
if the soil on or over crops being watered with 
ong stable manure, as rapid absorption is thus 
•hecked. In the case of seedbeds watered under 
•road sunshine, if once began the soil must he 
sept moist at all hazards, and a little shading in 
he daytime is desirable. Seeds may be induced 
o germinate by a good watering over night, and 
get so scorched by midday that the germs would 
oe all destroyed. Soft water is always better 
.ban hard water for watering, but the nature 
of the latter may be materially changed by ex- 
[•osure to the sun and air in a big tub for a few 
hours. Wherever it is purposed to water garden 
crops freely in the summer, or, indeed, plants 
under any conditions, there should be an open 
tank or tubs available, into which the hard water 
ran be pumped in the morning, so that it gets 
both warm and soft by night, which is always 
the best time for watering. Peas for the summer 
traps should be sown in trenches 18 inches in 
ridth, so that the water may be poured liberally 
•bout the roots, aDd some soil or manure be 
aided to prevent evaporation. Strawberry plants 
should have a heavy mulching put on at once, 
and watering in dry weather 
joed.—A. D. 


9665.—Floral cement.—I think it " Minnie " tries 
the following, she will And it very good : Dissolve half a 
pound of white shellac in a half pintof methylated spirits. 
Use a finely-pointed stick to drop it into the petals of 
flowers.—J. Came. 

9651.—Ants in greenhouse.—I think if " A. P. It," 
will uae the pepper box freely over the place infested 
with ants they will not trouble him long. Any common 
pepper will answer the purpose.—J. Came. 

9C58.—Camellia dropping its buds —If “ A.A.'s" 
Camellia got once dry, that accounts for the buds dropping. 
Camellias must be kept moist at the roots.—J ohn 
Mackay. 


Patience .—The seed may be had from any good seed 
house under the name of Melilotm officinalis. It is a 

wild British plant.- J. K .—Some portion of wood of 

Hydrangeas always dies back after blooming.- J. B. C. 

—Water from a stable manure tank is excellent for 
Vines. It should not be used, of coureo, in too fresh a 
state, but vigorous Vines will take it pretty strong. Will 
not your neighbour who uses it so lavishly give you somo 

information as to its effects?- SandoJiian. —Turnip- 

rooted Celery. It i3 grown in England, but not to any 
large extent. 

Rambler .—Messrs Cannell and Sons, Swanley, Kent. 

- V. H. S., Crtydon.— Place the bran in small heaps 

about the garden, and examine early every morning or by 
lamp light at night, and you will catch a good many slugs. 

- W. U. Fletcher, Oldham .—The advertiser of whom 

you complain has sent us two letters sent by him to you, 
but which were returned marked “ cannot be found," so 
that the fault, if any, is your own. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents.— All communica¬ 
tions fer insertion should oe clearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the Publisher. The name 
and address of the sender is required, in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the aucry 
answered. When more than one qxiery is sent each should 
be on a separate piece qf paper. Owing to the necessity of 
GARDENING going to press a considerable time before the 
day qf publication , it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

9719. — Destroying Aconites.— I have always had 
in my garden a certain number of plants of Winter Aconite 
(Eranthis hyemalis), and for more than 20 years they did 
not increase, but kept themselves to themselves. But a 
few years ago, for no perceptible reason, they increased 
enormously, and ever since continued to do so till they have 
become a perfect plague, exterminating flowers, plants, 
and turf. They have entirely destroyed and taken pos¬ 
session of a large piece of lawn. I have tried digging up, 
burning, planting large Cabbages, <S:c., besides mowing off 
the flowers ; but all to no purpose. The bulbs are most 
vigorous and tenacious, and propagate with the most 
astonishing multiplicity in the garden, Bhrubbery, field 
(where the turf is new or recent), and even in the gravel 
walks, and it has become a very serious invasion, more 
threatening every year. Will any reader give me advice ? 
— M. O. 

9720. —Marechai Niel with pale blooms.—I 
procured some Mardchal Niel Roses from a respectable 
nursery, and budded them on Gloire de Dijon and Perle 
de Lyon stocks last year. The buds look well and have made 
some 12 feet to 15 feet of strong wood. I have cut some 
scores of blooms since Christmas, and there are hundreds 
more to come. The roots are in a Vine border outside, 
the plants budded inside of house, but my trouble is this : 
The blooms are not of that deep rich yellow bo much 
admired in this splendid Rose. Can any practical reader 
tell me the cause ? I must add the Roses I bought were 
in pots, but what few blooms they gave were of a pale 
straw' colour. I am, however, quite sure they are cor¬ 
rectly named. What I want is deeper colour; how can I 
get it? The house is heated from October to April.— 
omega. 

9721. —Roses losing: their leaves.—What is the 
reason that Rose trees lose their leaves at this time of 
the year In a cool greenhouse? They begin by hanging 
down and curling up, then turn yellow, and on the 
slightest touch come off. They are clean and free from 
green fly, wore planted in pots in January, in rather 
heavy soil, with broken bones, Ac., and the top of soil 
is just covered with spent bark. The three worst arc 
two Gloire de Df jons and a Baronne de Maynard. Each 
of them is Bhowing a few buds. We have had strong east 
winds lately, and the house is erected abovo a washhouse 
facing east, north, and south, and built against the east 
wall of house, so that it gets snn (w'hen there is any) all 
day up to 5 o’clock p.m. Being amongst factories, we get 
a lot of soot and smoke.—T. I’. 

9722— Daphnes not flowering.— I have several 
good strong plants of Dapliue, w'hich nave not flowered 
for the last two years, for no apparent reason. They were 
treated in the same maimer as they always have been, viz., 
turned out in the summer and then kept in a cool house till 
they came into flower, when they were taken into tho 
conservatory. I saw in a gardening paper that they 
should be cut down and then plunged in bottom-heat, 
which I did, but without the desired result. They came 
up as healthy as ever, but without any signs of flowers. 
Some of the plants are four or five years old, some three, 
some two, and some are last year’s cuttings. Will some¬ 
one tell me how to treat them to make them flower ?— 
Pink Carnation. 

9723.—Gloire de Dijon Rose.—Can anyone tell me 
how' to treat my Gloire ue Dijon Rose trees? They are in 
a large greenhouse, and were planted uearly twelve years 
ago, and until the lost two or three years have done 
wonderfully well ; but this year the Roses are very 
inferior, and many of them turn colour when just on the 
point of blooming. They are well supplied with manure 
water, and there has been a little heat applied. Shall I 
plant fresh ones, and, if so, how shall I best prepare the 
ground j which is light and sandy?—A. J. R. 


dozen bedding Geraniums had every leaf killed by the 
smoke, but are now recovered, and have leaves about as 
large as a shilling. How can I push them forward a3 
regards bloom and foliuge? The soil is poor and ex¬ 
tremely Bandy, and each plant is In a separate 2A-inch 
pot. What is tho proper time to plant out Geraniums ? 
—AN AMATEUR. 

9725.—Pelargoniums in winter.—Will the large- 
flowered Pelargoniums, such as Captain Raikes, Dr. 
Audrfc, &c., flower freely in the early winter? If so, I 
should be glau to knew the treatment and heat required. 
Mine are just now coming into flower. Will it hurt 
them for winter blooming if, after flowering. I take cut¬ 
tings? Is a dry atmosphere required? Will the ordi¬ 
nary scarlet Geraniums flower at the same time freely 
with the same treatment ?—W. G. L. 

97-2o._Flowers for centre of bed.— Will some 
one inform me of the best red, scarlet, or pink-coloured 
flower to answer the following purpose ? I have a round 
flower bed. I intend planting a band of yellow Violas 
round the edge, blue Lobelias next, and I want a plant of 
the same habit and to flower at tho same time as the 
Lobelias and the Violas of a red, scarlet, or pink colour 
for the centre.—P uck, Lester. 

9727.— Top-dressing an old garden. — I havo 
removed to a house where there is a garden 150 feet long 
by 50 feet broad, which was not cultivated last year, 
owing to (he amount of grub in the soil, which is good 
loam. I shall be glad If any reader will inform me as to 
what I should do. Would digging it and top-dressing 
with strong lime put it. in good order for next year.— 
Beginner. 

97—Lily of the Nile.—What quantity of water 
does this require ? The aid leaves seem to wither as the 
new ones are produced. Should they be cut off at the 
point where tho new leaves appear? I am told the seed 
sows itself. How can one tell when the seed is ripe ? Is 
there anything special about the general treatment of 
the plant?— Heaton. 

9729. —Carnation s and Roses. — How should I 
treat a Malmaison Carnation ? It has grown well this win ter, 
and looks as if it was soon going to flower. I have also 
a Mardchnl Niel Rose, planted last autumn outside the 
greenhouse, and brought in through a hole in the wall. 
What treatment will it require this summer ? The aspect 
is south-west.—Miss S. 

9730. — Treatment of Seakale.—I wbh to have all 
particulars as to the treatment of Seakale. Should an 
old bed be now cleared of tho litter and the ground, 
which is hard between the rows of plants, be dug up? 
How should a new bed be formed, and what is the best 
method of forcing it ?—Ivy. 

9731. —Peaches and Nectarines bitter. — Can 
anyone inform me why Nectarines and Peaches grown 
under glass should have a hitter taste ? Could it be caused 
from the want of suflicient water to the roots, or want of 
manure, or insufficient ventilation? The trees appear 
healthy.—A LADY GARDENER. 

9732. —Plants for marshy place in garden — 
Will someone tell me the names of a few plants that 
would grow well in a marshy place in my garden, open to 
the south and not shaded by trees ? Also, when snould 
they be planted ?—Bracken. 

9733. —BastenlDg the growth of Ivy.—Can any 
one tsll me of any treatment that will hasten the growth 
of Ivy ? I am anxious to cover the side of a house facing 
north, and shall be glad to know of anything that will 
help to make it grow quickly.—R ustic. 

0734.—Melons for August —When should Melon 
seeds be sown to have Melons ripe by the second week 
in August ? I have a lean-to house for growing them in. 
A few hints as to heat and training, <fcc., will bo thank¬ 
fully received.—J oe. 

9735. — Ipomsea purpurea.—I have a packet of 
seed of Ipomtea purpurea tricolor. I would be thankful 
for any instructions as to the treatment it requires.— 
North Stafford. 

9736. —Culture of Marechai Niel Roee.—Will 
any reader kindly give me information as to soil and 
cultivation of Mardchal Niel Rose? I understand it is 
rather delicate.—T. H. 

9737. — Mushroom spawn.— Having seen an article 
in Gardening a few weeks back that Mushroom spawn 
could be gathered from the meadows, will any reader in¬ 
form me how it can be discovered ‘/-ANXIOUS. 

9733.—Birds and cats.—My garden swarms with 
sparrows in the daytime and is overrun by oats at night. 
Will any kind reader tell me what will keep them off? 
—H. M. P. 

9739. — Asparagus in trenches. -Can anyone give 
me any information in regard to the method of growing 
Asparagus in trenches instead of beds ?—C. L. S 

9740. —Fi8h and shells for marine aquarium. 
—Would someone kindly say where and how I can get 
the above? I live in Staffordshire.—F ish. 

9741. — Hydrangea not blooming. — I havo a 
Hydrangea over two years old, and which does not show 
any blooms. What should I do to make it flower ?—J. K. 

9742. —Potato planting with lime.—In planting 
Potatoes in heavy land should lime be used, and if used, 
when and how shonld it be applied ?—R. B. J. 

9743. —Heliotropes. — Will 11 s. K.," Gardening 
A pril 24, say whether his plant is planted inside or out¬ 
side of his vinery, and what compost he uses ?—J. li. 

9744. —Azaleas after blooming. —I have an 
Azalea that has now finished blooming. What treatment 
does it require to preserve it through the winter ?— S. K. 

9745. —Haricot Beans.—Will some render kindly 
tell mo how to grow Haricot Beans, and when to sow 
them?— Joe. 

9746. — Tropeeolum minus coccineum.—I have 
a packet of seeds marked os above ; any hints respecting 
habits and culture of same will oblige.—AN Amateur. 

9747. —Carnations for greenhouse.—Will some¬ 
one tell me the names of six good Carnations for the 
greenhouse?—G. D. J. P. 

9743.—Myrtle.—Wlmt is the proper time for putting 
in cuttings or slips of this plant?—H kaTON 

9749.- Hose-in-Hose Polyanthus.— Will anyone 
tell me If I can g?th*;r seed from this variety ?—Anxious. 


will then do some 

Goog 




9724.—Bedding Geraniums.- On Good Friday I 
accidentally set my greenhouse on flro. About twelve 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[May 12, 1883. 


POULTRY. 1 

Pullet laying BOft eggB.— I have a grey 
speckled pullet, five toes, comb something like 
the Spanish; she commenced laying first week in 
December, laid in the nest first week, dropped 
her eggs in the garden second week ; ever since 
then she drops the eggs at twelve o’clock at 
night off the perch, twice a week laying two 
eggs in five minutes, one hard and one soft. 
She has this week commenced dropping her eggs, 
all Boft, about the garden ; the other birds eat 
them. Shall X kill her, or is there any cure ? 
The other birds all lay well, with good shells; 
they have plenty of old mortar and oyster shells, 
and have a good run.—W. [This is certainly a 
most extraordinary case, and we consider a cure 
impossible, and would advise killing. Is the 
pullet in question very much worried by the 
other birds ? It often happens in a run that one ' 
member is singled out as a mark for ill-usage by ' 
all the rest, and this will often cause a pullet to 
drop soft eggs and lay in out-of-the-way places. 

If so, try quiet and complete seclusion for a week 1 
or two.— Andalusian. ' 

Eggs with pale yolks.— In Gabdenins 
of March 10 and March 24 the want of colour : 
in the yolks of eggs is attributed to the fowls ' 
being kept in confinement. In the hope of 
eliciting some further information, I write to say i 
that our fowls are not confined at all. They are 
out at their own free will and pleasure from 
morn till eve, have an unlimited run over grass 
and uncultivated braes, and ye: their eggs are 
pale in colour, and, connoisseurs say, wanting in 
iiavour. As this has always been a source of 
regret, I shall be very glad of any information 
on the subject. They are fed principally on 
Indian Corn, Potatoes, and dust, warmed, twice 
a day, and an evening meal of Oats, but have 
no farmyard feeding. To this last fact I have 
been inclined to attribute the absence of colour, 
but have no certainty on the point.— Douglas. 

Proliflo hen. — Anna. —To commence to lay 
when her chickens are only a month old is cer¬ 
tainly very remarkable for a hen. You do not 
say what breed she is. We have, however, often 
had hens commence to lay a few weeks after 
hatching, and at the same time continue to look 
after the chicken and nestle them at night as in 
your case. We believe Brahmas do this more 
frequently than any other breed. You were 
indeed fortunate in obtaining eleven chicken 
from the same number of eggs set, and from the 
above circumstances we should 6ay your birds 
are in good health and well looked after, also 
that the breed is suited to the locality. If the 
chickens are strong, we should separate them 
from the hen shortly, to the benefit of both par¬ 
ties. It is only necessary to keep them apart for 
a few days, in order to thoroughly wean them 
from the mother.— Andalusian. 

Eggs tainted. — L. M. jB—W e are inclined 
to think it is fancy on yonr part, and cannot 
understand, with your splendid advantages of a 
field for run, how the eggs can taste at all 
tainted or like stale ones. We do not believe 
that there can exist such a thing with any 
jmultry, provided the eggs are fresh and the 
birds healthy. Are you sure the eggs are gathered 
up regularly and that the nests are clean. We 
should like to know whether other correspondents 
have had any experience in this matter. Eggs 
from some hens are very rich indeed, and taste a 
little strong, like a duck's egg, but we should not 
consider this a defect.— Andalusian. 

Blackswane. — "8. II." cnn obtain black awaits from 
the foreign bird importers, price slront £10 the psir.— 
J. H. Yerhall. 

BIRDS. 

Food for larks. — I find that the following 
mixture suits larks, robins, &c.: 1 pound Ger¬ 
man paste, 1 pound bread-crumbs, half pint 
crushed hemp seed, half pint crushed groats, 1 
ounce ants’ eggs, 2 ounces cheese grated small, 

2 ounces prepared yolk of egg. The prepared 
yolk of egg and the preserved ants’ eggs may, I 
think, be had from Mr. J. Abrahams, 191, St. 
George’s Street, E.—G. W. Sincleton. 

Green oanary.— I have a green canary 
with a turn crown head (I believe it is called); 
it commenced noting when I first got it, but it 
never sang out. It is constantly making a noise 
with its beak, but never sings. It is very tame, 
and always playful, spreads its wings, and offers 


fight when anyone goes near the cage. Can 
any reader tell me what to do to induce it to 
sing ? It is now two years old.— Turn crown. 

Oramp In canaries.— All birds are more 
or less liable to this troublesome complaint, 
sometimes it attacks the limbs, at other times 
the stomach. It may arise from a vitiated state 
of the bile, or from having eaten something in¬ 
digestible. Mr. Robert Wallace, in his canary- 
book, says the most effectual remedy he knows 
of is, when in the limbs, to immerse them in hot 
water and administer some gentle aperient. 
When in the stomach, give twenty drops of 
antimonial wine and two drops of laudanum to 
one and a half ounces of water, in place of the 
drinking water.— CELF.R ei Audax. 

Birds from China —Your birds are from 
India, not from China. Their English name is 
Spice or Nutmeg birds, and their scientific appel¬ 
lation Spermestes punctularia. The bald indi¬ 
viduals should be removed into a comfortable 
temperature not falling below 65° degrees. 
Give a little crushed hempseed, and add a few 
drops of diatised iron to the water.—W. T. G. 

Food for canaries. —“ A Reader's ” treat¬ 
ment is right enough, it is the draught from the 
window that has killed off the birds. Hempseed 
is very fattening, and If the birds are kept in 
small cages, should not be given every day, but 
twice or three times a week only.—W. T. 
Greene, F.Z.S. 

Java sparrows.— J. S. If.—These are 
very hardy birds, and may be kept in any 
ordinary sized cage in a room or a garden 
aviary. If they have room they will breed, and 
should be fed exactly like canaries, adding rice 
in husk if available. They are very fond of 
bathing.—W. T. Greene, F.Z.S. 

pHOU DE BCRGHLEY, an entirely new and 

\J distinct vegetable, a cross lietween the Broccoli and 
Cabbage, flavour delicious, perfectly hardy, may be had in 
use the whole winter and spring; sow at once in open 
ground :1s . la. Pd., and 2a. 6d. per packet, post free.— 
bTUART & MEIN, Kelao, Scotland. ___ 

OTAGE AURICULA.—The seed we offer is 

O warranted to be Baved from named show dowers, care¬ 
fully hybridised : a very choice strain of this m oft .valuable 
florists* flower, I". 0d. per packet, poat free.—STUART A 
MEIN, Kelso, Scotland. 

F NT.Sl'KMONc*, finest named varieties, with 

large and handsome flowere, one of the finest hardy 
plant* for bedding and show purposes; strong pl«nt* now- 
ready for planting out, to flower all the summer and autumn, 
4a. per doz en, free.—STUART A MEIN, K elso , Scot land. 
TlAHLIAS Miow, Fancy, Single, Pompone, 
X/ Bedding, Cact-us-like ; we have a very large collection of 
all these classes. aad can apnd out separate or a>« irted lot* 
at 4*. per dozen, free.—STUART & MEIN, Kelso, fleot- 
land. __ 

C aKNATION SEED, 6aved from the finest 

named show varieties, warranted to produce a large per¬ 
centage of double flowers, of great value where delicious 
Hweet-acented blooms are appreciated; sow row to have 
strong plants for flowering next year: la. and 2s. 6d. per 
packet: Picotee, la. and 2s. 6d. per packet, free. —8TllART 
A MEIN, Kelao, Scotland._ _ 

CTREE CARNATION (Perpetual flowering.)— 

X These are at their beat when the keen frosty winds have 
cleared the garden of its occupants; easily grown in the 
smalb st greenhouse and flowering profusely the whole 
winter, when their beautiful, sweet-smelling, large flowers 
are highly prized; Is. and 2s 6d. per packet, post free.— 
STUART & MEIN, Kelso, Scotland. 


STUART & MEIN, Kelso, Scotland._ 

L ILY OF THE VALLEY .-12 roots of the 

largest flowering sort with paper on cultivation. Is.— 
GIBB8 It CO., Wood brid ge._ 

OHRISTMAS HOSES. - Beautiful hardy 

\J white flowers from Christmas to Lent; one plant, 7d.; 
twelve 4b.— GIBB8 A CO., Woodbridge, Buffolk. _ 

flLD CRIMSON CLOVE ^JARNATIONS.- 

V/ Strong plant* from open ground. Two for Is. 3d., car¬ 
riage paid.—GIBBS A CO., Woodbridge, Suffolk._ 

WATERPROOF PLANT"LABELS, guaran- 

*" teed satisfactory. Fifty labels and bottle of water¬ 
proof ink, post free, Is. 3<L The trade supplied in quantity 
at reduced prices.—GIB BS ft CO., Woodbndge, 8tifirolk. 

TtflCOTIANA LONGlFLORA eeed, 7drper 

XN packet, N. affinis, Is. per packet, both produoing beauti¬ 
ful wnite scented flowers.—GIBBS A CO., Woodbridge, 
Suffolk._ 

T7TOLETS, single and double, true to name.— 
V Collections of the best sorts for colour, fragrance, and 
free-flowering disposition, with cultural direct Iona, 3s„ 6e., 
and 10s. 6<L—GIBBS & CO., Woodbridge. 

HEAP PLANTS. Carnage Paid.- 

12 Verbenas In 12 splendid named sorts, In. 6cL; 100,8e. 6d. 
IOO Verbena*, white, purple, scarlet, and pink, 8*. 6d. 

12 Fuchsias in 12 lovely varieties. Is. 6d.; 100, 8s. 6d. 

12 Pansies in 12 splendid show kinds, 2b. Od.; 100,18s. 

12 Ageratum Imperial dwarf. Is. 3d.; 100, 6s. 6d. 

12 Heliotropes, light or dark kinds, Is. 3d. ; 100, 6«. 6d. 

13 Meaembryantbemum cord, variegatum, Is. 3d.; 100, 6s. 6d. 
12 Coleus in 12 splendid named sorts, 2s. 

12 Ire line Lindeni and others, 1*. 3d.; 100, 6s. 6d. 

12 Calceolaria Golden Gem, Is. 6d. ; 100, 8s. 

Terms Cash, Theplants are clean, healthy, and well rooted. 
The Executors of the late 

H. BLANDFORD, 

The Dorset Nurseries, Blandford. 


■FERTILISING MOSS, our Speciality.-!! 

X plant growers should send for our sample box 
growing plant and cultural directions. 1*., post (r» . 
MANAGER, Great Frenches, Crawley Down, Busmx. 

SPECIAL POTATO ^MANURE, 

A natural Guano, combined with special condensed Pcuto 
stimulants ; agrees with the experiments recently msd* J* 
the Cork Agricultural Society. Prepared by a rocepf'J 
Potato grower and writer on Potato culture. In bag* h a 
7 lba. to 2 cwt. free on rail. 

Extract from Analybt's Repobt. 

0/ teveral samples 0 J our Special Potato Manure 
fo our analyst, the analyst says: “No. 1 is tibt go| 
indeed for the purpose. 

TOR PRICES APPLY, 

The Manager, Great Frenches, 

__Cra wley D own. Sussex. 

PLANTS well established in fertilising Mon, 
L equal to 4-in. pot*.—Named Fuchsias. ZodsI Gmrr.n, 
Coleus, Genistas, Eupatoriums, 3a. per doz.; named tnbowa* 
-rooted and foliage Begonia*, 4s. 6d.; Heliotropes. Lactic 
Salvia splendens. 2*. 6d. All good plants, well rooted.- 
MANAGEB, Great Fr enches, Crawley Down, Sussex. 

•POMATO PLANTS.—Best three varieties,fr* 
X dozen for la 0d.. good plant* fit for 4-in. pots Cl** 

S lants for prickiDg out, la 6d. 100 in four best rarietia- 
IANAQER, Great Frenches, Crawley Down, gossex, 

P FERTILISING MOSS.-Single Dablii, 

from beet named varieties, stout plant*. It. f<i d; 
Doubles, show, fancy, and pompone, 3a Large Too: 
plant*, best golden, 1* d">z. Balaams. 12 colours, largepbrfi* 
is . 6d . do z.—MANAGER. Great Frenches, _ 

T OB ELIA, stout pl&uts, blue, manve, m 
-LI white, 3 doz ,2a 6d. Antirrhinum, 11 named Twiet*. 
1 b. doz. Ptutstemo is, seedlings from best sort*, li da, 
Beedling Tuberous Begonias, from named varieties, li ii 
Orders over Is. post free, or in hampers paid to Lcndot- 
Great Frenches, Crawley Down, Sussex. 

•"TO EXHIBITORS.—Betteridge’a prize quill- 
X Asters, 12 coloura separate . priz? dwarf and tabling 
French, and oraDge, lemon, and quilled African Marigrtfc 
finest double Zinnias, 12 c dours, mixed; Henry # Fri™ 
Lyon Leeks All stout Beedllngs, at 6d. per dozen; omi 
poet free.— MANAG ER Gre at F rgpc hes. Crawley iHm 

■REST PRIMULA EXTANT^-Mr W. Ml 

D •• Premier "—a* supplied by us to hundredr of to 
readers of Gardening. We have no hesitation inaju 
this is the best mixed Primula in the trade. Numerous 
menials from nurserymen, gardeners, and amatetu? TV 
colours range from pure white through the most 
shade* of blush and lilac to deep coccinea red. The Hove 
are large and thrown well above the foliage. Among 
raised from our seed last year were many curious *nd hi- 
tiful varieties of “Fancy'* Primula*. We gives* libri 
packets as we possibly can at 7d., Is., and 2s. 64, patlm 
Prize strains of Calceolaria, Gloxinia, Cineraria, and Cjc» 
men at 6d. and Is., post free. 12 seeds semi-double Pnnrii 
mixed, so useful for cutting, poet free, 6d. Fine?! *ta 
Primula sinensis firnhriata, per packet of 40 seeds, 64, pa 

free —RYDER A SON, Bale, Manchester. _ 

Cheap Dahlias, Double and Single 
•THE fine larger how, fancy and pompone krei. 
X nicely rooted, sturdy plants, ‘ excellent named »o* 
great variety. Note. —Theee are the well known doublenrsse 
12 choice kinds for 3s. 6-1., poet free. SINGLE DAHLIA' 
from the finest strain* in the kingdom, established^:* 
from pot*. As these were potted a month ago they will an 
very fine plants by bedding-out time, per doz., 2s. fcL; pffN* 
18b , post free. 5e. value or upwards sent in separate 
desired pack- d iu small h *mper (customer to pay eamud- 
RYDE R * SON, Bale. Ma nche ster. _ 

0/1 FCCHSIA CUTTINGS in 24 fine name’ 

LTT. kinds, double and single, for Is. 9d.; 12 double frtab 
cuttings, our fine varieties (unnamed) for Is 3d. Nov »l! 
excellent time for rooting cutting*. Four nice rooted p» 
greenhouse Mosses, Darned, for lOd , excellent for omj L 
Fuchsias. nicely rooted plant* in twelve fine exhibition un; 
ties, for 2 b. ; all carefully packed and poet free-BU’E 
AND SON, Sale , Manchester. __ 

Asters ! Asters ! 

T2 EALTHY, well-rooted, vigorous plants, read' 
IJ- to plant at once in open border Tiuffsut* 
Perfection, from finest imported seed. Th-p is the ted **• 
most popular variety for flower border. Pei score. l*.f»? 
100. 4s., cxrefully packed in Moss and post free.— RYT)Eh i 
BON, Sale. Manch ester.__ ___ 

QINGLK DAHLIAS, stout plants, 

O several weeks ago. 8eedltnga from the finest itnio “ 
existence, 2s. 6d. doz., uost free. Prices will be 
week. Bee other advertisement.—RYDER A SOh, 
Manchester. ____ 

HEW FRENCH CINERARIA.—A striin re 

-LI markable for it* large flower*, produced in grwt pv 
fusion, and in many unique and beautiful varieties. Wtu* 
out l ist year before the season was half orer. Per jack-*. 11 
and 2s. 6d. ; a trial packet for 7cL, all post free. Gloria*- 
from named sort*; Cyclamen, a renowned strain; y*" 
ceolaria, Mr. Bull’s unsurpassed strain ; and P ri mal*, ill * 
6d.. Is . and 2s Od. per packet, poet free — RYDER kfr' 1 * 
Sale Manchester. ___- 

blLVKR VARIEGATED FERN, I’teris cwfo 

KJ ulbo-liueata; nice plants, potted and established i*a 
September, healthy growing and well up in solour; sore* 
move well, exoellent for amateurs, a pair, free, for If 
per dozen, 6a., free. These should be potted at once im°' 
inch pots. The climbing Fern. Lygodium tcaodene. c/r 
healthy plants, Is. each. free. The best Fern for cqbhpWM 
cutting is Ptens eerrulata, a dozen healthy plants ew*® 1 ®_ 
in seperate pots, and packed in small hamper for 5s ; > i»f 
may De sent poet free for le. The easiest to manage ci 
Feme. Also a few plants of Pteris scaberulfc a PJ™ 
Fern, very pretty behind flower* for personal deoo ™ uo , ' 
pair for 1*. 3d., free ; or one of each variety abore the h 
plants, post tree, tor 2®. 6d.; all carefully packed and 
RYDER k 8QN. Bale. Manchester. ___ 

"PERNS from De von t hire, Cornwall, and Seme-- 
X set, by an experienced collector of 25 yean; cormw 
named and packed; with Instruction Book for n>»■ 
Rockery, planting Ferns, Ac., with each 6*. order, j* 
named varieties, 6s. p«r 100. Bmall (post). 30 for 2a AS 
KIUM FONTANUM SEFTENTtloNALE ud 
BTICJHUM LOHOH3TI8 (Holly), a wot MO 


I OllGIl u lU. UU LX VJl-1 L it- IJlUOHp u, v— --- o, _ 

BRITISH and EXOTIC. Catalogue, 2d. 

I E. GILL. Lodging-house Keeper, Lynkm. >. Devon. - 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


You V. 


MAY 19, 1883. 


No. 219. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Continued from page 115.) 


THE ROSERY. 

IN some gardens this only forms an adjunct to 
the other departments, in others the Rose is the 
dominant flower, monopolising most of the time 
snd thought of the cultivator. Where this occurs 
the gardens are usually small, or at least of 
only moderate extent, and the proprietor is an 
enthusiast; and if only one hobby can be kept, 
no more delightful one than the Rose in its 
many forms and varieties can be found. Where 
one has the time and the space to gather to¬ 
gether all the known species of the Rose, cross 
ami intermarry them, and sow the seeds, a most 
interesting progeny may be raised; or, if the 
numbers are embarrassing, select the most dis¬ 
tinct families and try to originate a new race. 
If intelligently and persistently worked, some¬ 
thing would grow out of it. The Rose will not 
flourish on a starveling diet, and neither does it 
:ake kindly to formal gardens; and jet, if one 
wants to enjoy Roses perfectly, they must be 
olaDted so that we can get to them, and this 
cems to imply that they should be planted near 
..he paths, or else be grown on turf, but with- 
>ut any intervening border, or only just snffi- 
;ient bare earth round each plant as to do away 
vith the necessity of mowing quite close to the 
hem. The garden of Roses—where the Rose 
firms the main feature—should, I think, be in 
wo parts. The experimental portion might be 
iway in a paddock or field, or out of sight any- 
vhere, where the cultivator might work out his 
deas in peace. The show part of the Rosery 
vould, of course, occupy a more conspicuous posi- 
ion. The best specimens might be planted by 
lie side of the path, either on the border or on 
he grass. They may be ranged sometimes in 
;roaps of different sizes, with room to move 
asily among them. The climbers and 
amblers might be trained over rustic arches or 
n walls or buildings. Some of the less rampant 
rowers may be trained to poles or employed to 
over screens of wire or wood. 

Standard Roses on tall stems have rather lost 
aste of late years. Not only have they an un- 
atural, incongruous appearance, but the plants 
inder such conditions are shorter lived, many 
verishing daring severe winters. A few stan- 
ards from 3 to 3.t feet in height may be admis- 
ible as background plants, but the general 
ollection should be budded or grafted close to 
he ground, or else be obtained from cuttings. 

Position and Soil. 

The Rosery must occupy a sheltered situation, 
is cutting winds are ruinous to both flowers and 
oliage. The best soil is a deep adhesive loam 
esting on clay. The site must be thoroughly 
1 rained, that is, the water that falls in winter 
nust pass rapidly away. The best results can 
>nly be obtained by a deep soil; not less than 
! feet will suffice, and if deeper it will be better. 
To improve a cold clay soil, after the drains have 
reen put in feet deep, collect together some 
if the clods of clay when dry, and burn them, 
spreading the ashes to the depth of 6 inches over 
:he beds intended for Roses, and trench the land 
.iver, mixing all together, adding in manure as 
iberal as necessary or convenient, and it is not 
easy in this respect to overdo it. For autumn 
planting the preparation of the ground should 
lake place in August, to give time for it to settle, 
mil for the sunshine and the atmosphere to work 
upon its surface to pulverize and sweeten it. For 
planting in spring on cold land, the burning may 
be done in August and September, the trench¬ 
ing immediately after, and after the storms and 
frosts of winter have worked upon it. 

Planting may take place early in March, 
"'hen Roses are planted in March the pruning 
should be delayed till the buds are bursting, 
then cut hard back—that is to say, cut within 
two, or, in the case of the strongest shoots, 
three eyes of the base. I have seen Roses 
planted in the first week of March do re- 
oarkably well, especially when the land has 
had a thorough winter's preparation. But if I 
»tre going to plant a Rosery io^pring, I should. 

Digitized by (jOOQU 


if possible, buy the plants not later than 
November, have them home at once, shorten 
their roots a little, and lay them in by the heels 
in a slanting position in a dry border. Not 
only should 1 get the pick of the plants in the 
nursery, and probably secure them of stronger, 
healthier habit, but I should expect them to 
gain some advantage from having their wounded 
roots healed over, and they would also have 
made some new roots,or the latent rootlets would 
be ready to start, and the plants would be in a 
far better condition for commencing a new 
life than if only just lifted. If standard Roses 
are planted, the stems must be supported by 
stakes immediately, and the surface round the 
stems should be mulched with manure. If 
Roses are grown on the bed system, a better 
effect may be obtained by planting standards 
and dwarfs alternately, finishing off with a row 
of dwarfs round the outside. In this way we 
get the bods elevated without any exposure of 
naked stems. 

Dvarf lloses .—Some people adopt what is 
termed the pegging-down system, which means 
that alL the strong shoots, instead of being 
pruned back, are bent over, and the end layered 
into an open space. In the course of time 
most of these layered shoots form roots and 
become independent plants. The very first 
garden I worked in many years ago had 
several large beds of dwarf Roses worked on 
this plan. They were mostly of the old-fashioned 
summer-blooming kinds, such as the Cabbage 
or Provence, the York and Lancaster, the 
Maiden's Blush, and others that would be 
difficult to find now. In pruning the plants, 
all the strong shoots were left to peg down, and 
the plan answered well, as the beds were kept 
full of healthy growth, which was the main 
thing sought for. 

In the course of time the hybrid perpetnals 
ousted all the old Roses from the beds. I 
remember what a furore of excitement was 
caused among us when Gfiant des Battailles was 
introduced, and the efforts we made to work up a 
stock quickly. But the whirligig of time brings 
its revenges, and the Geant in its turn had to 
give way to others. I cannot say that I like 
pegged-down Roses, as I prefer to grow them 
naturally. Some Roses, when pegged down, throw 
up strong wood from the base, which crowds out 
the flowers and occupies the centre of the bush 
completely. I think it is better to let the Rose 
grow into a natural bush, with just the necessary 
pruning to keep the tree well balanced. The 
flowers on pegged down Roses are often dis¬ 
figured and splashed with earth from beiDg 
so near the ground. As regards 

The Pruning of Roeea 
No inexorable law or rule can be laid down, 
as so much depends upon the way in which the 
wood has been produced, and every distinct 
family requires to be treated in a different manner. 
The old-fashioned summer Roses that we planted 
in large masses thirty or forty years ago were 
always pruned during autumn or winter,and were 
cut back more or less according to strength, thin¬ 
ning ont. the head well before doing the shorten¬ 
ing. When the hybridist gave ns the perpetnals 
this system of winter pruning had to be altered, 
for the new comers were of an excitable nature, 
and would, in our mild winters, shew their 
parentage by breaking into growth prematurely 
before the weather was ready for them. So it 
was found the pruning had to be delayed till 
March, and sometimes—especially with newly- 
planted bushes—till April. As regards the man¬ 
ner of performing the operation, there was not 
much change required. All weak shoots must 
be cut away, to leave room for the development 
of the stronger eyes which burst forth from the 
more vigorous shoots. It is the same with Roses 
as with fruit trees or other plants. Over-crowd¬ 
ing wood or foliage does not pay. There must 
be space for the young shoots which are to pro¬ 
duce the future blossoms to grow. And it is 
equally important that space should be given to 
ripen the wood for the next year’s crop, al¬ 
though this is sometimes lost sight of. The 
thinning being accomplished, the shortening re¬ 
quires some knowledge and judgment. If a large 


number of flowers are wished for rather than 
a few of extra merit, the flowering shoots may 
be left longer in proportion to their strength, or 
say from 8 inches to 10 inches; but to obtain 
very fine flowers for exhibition we must cut 
pretty hard back, for the finest blooms will bo 
near the centre of the tree. And it is always 
best to cut to dormant buds, that is those which 
have not yet started into growth. The same 
principle should guide us in pruning Tea Roses. 

A dormant bud on a well-ripened shoot will 
mako a better growth and produce a finer flower 
than can be obtained from one of those excit¬ 
able buds that has had no rest. The same rule, 
too, holds good as regards thinning, cuttingaway 
the weakly shoots, and leaving the strong, well- 
matured buds to form the future tree. Some say 
Tea Roses should not be pruned much, and no 
doubt more blossoms can be obtained for a time 
from an nnpruned bush, but if we want quality 
we must cut to ripened wood and buds. As 
regards Noisette and other vigorous climbing 
Roses, the finest flowers are produced from 
the strong well-ripened buds on the vigorous 
young shoots which have grown out alone 
into the air and been exposed to the sun¬ 
shine and the motion of the air, and the pru¬ 
ning of such plants should be confined to the 
thinning out of weak shoots to make room t» 
lay in the strong growths at full length, or 
nearly so, just merely shortening back the soft 
tips a little. From the middle to the end of 
March is the best time in the average of seasons 
to prune Roses. If pruned earlier, the eyes 
left may break and be injured by the late frosts; 
and if delayed longer than March, the strength 
that has been nsed up in developing the early 
growths will be cut away and lost. 

Transplanting Boses. 

No matter how well the ground was originally 
prepared for the Roses, the time comes when a 
change is necessary — unless the plants have 
been planted singly about the grounds. In this 
latter case the bush extends its branches in pro¬ 
portion to its roots, and a healthy reciprocity is 
kept up; but, in many instances, tither the 
plants break out of hand and make gross wood, 
which, in consequence of deep-rooting, does not 
ripen well, or else the soil settles too closely about 
them, acquiring too great a degree of firmness, 
which gradually causes the plants to lose force 
andstrength. In both these cases lifting and trans¬ 
planting is a decided advantage. Where the 
plants have become gross, the long, naked roots 
should be pruned back. In the case of the weak 
plants this will not be necessary, but replanting 
them into freshly worked land will give them a 
new lease of life. The autumn is the best time 
to rearrange Rose plantations in the way I have 
suggested. The plants must be carefully lifted, 
and if they are on their own roots some of the 
strongest may be divided and made into several. 
Others that have proved of delicate constitution 
will be discarded to make room for a few from 
the list of new Roses which are annually offered. 
In this way the collection will be kept up to the 
mark. 

Whosoever begins to grow Roses must keep 
addiDg a little new blood every year in order to 
keep the collection up to full pitch, whether he 
be an exhibitor or not. The exhibitor will, of 
course, attend all the great shows, and will mark 
whatever takes his fancy among the new Roses 
offered. The collection will thus be kept up to 
the mark, and whoever becomes enamoured of 
the Rose will learn its propagation, as it is 
necessary to keep adding fresh blood every year, 
either by purchase or by home propagation, and 
the wisest plan is to combine the two—that is, 
buy the new Roses, and always keep a few stocks 
ready for working at home. Much has been 
written and spoken as to which is the best stock 
for the Rose ; of course for standard Roses the 
Brier—by reason of its straight stem and the 
ease with which it can be obtained (it being a 
wildling)—will always be a favourite ; but for 
dwarf Roses ou indifferent Boils the Manetti is 
the better stock, by reason of its robust habit; 
in fact many people could hardly grow Roses at 
all without the Manetti stock: it will thrive on 
inferior land that would kill the Brier. If the 







GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


126 


plants are inserted deep enough in the ground 
so as to bury the junction where the bud was 
inserted, in the course of time roots will form 
on the stem of the Rose itself, so that virtually 
the Roses will be on their own roots. Whatever 
may be said to the contrary, I believe the intro¬ 
duction of the Manetti stock has given an im¬ 
mense impetus to the cultivation of the Rose. 
Other Roses, such as the Boursault and other 
kinds possessing vigorous constitutions, may be 
used as foster parents for delicate growers, and 
there is yet room for experimenters to work in 
this direction in the selection of suitable stocks 
for special classes of Roses. E. Hobday. 


VEGETABLES: 


vegetables in succession. 

All of us attach too much importance to early 
crop9, forgetful that in an ordinary way a regu¬ 
lar and continuous supply is what should be 
kept in view. When the soil is in good condi¬ 
tion cultivators are apt to hurry their seeds into 
it in too rapid succession, thereby creating a 
glut at one time and scarcity at another. Many 
kinds of vegetables, such as Peas, Beans, Cauli¬ 
flowers, &c. f must be used a few days after they 
come in ; even if an attempt is made to retard 
them it is only at the expense of quality ; they 
are never so good as when freshly gathered, and 
it is only by frequently making small sowings 
and plantings that a regular succession can be 
maintained. Among the most highly prized of 
all vegetables are 

Early Potatoes, but as no difficulty is ex¬ 
perienced in keeping them after they are fit for 
use, T need only remark that a selection of sorts 
should be grown that are of good quality, both 
late and early, and for this purpose, while grow¬ 
ing various sorts of Ashleaf Kidney for the 
eirliest supply, equal attention should be be¬ 
stowed on those that will keep in good condition 
for cooking until early crops come in the follow¬ 
ing season. 

Peas are perhaps the most popular of all 
summer vegetables, and to have them in perfec¬ 
tion great care as to date of sowing is necessary. 
We usually sow in the latter part of November 
for our earliest crop out-of-doors, but those 
sown in February are but little behind them, 
and after March sets in we sow about every fort¬ 
night quantities in accordance with the demand, 
so as to always have well filled pods of young 
Peas. About the end of May or first week in 
J une a large sowing of some of the tall late 
sorts may be made, such as Ne Plus Ultra and 
British Queen. They will keep on bearing as 
long as Green Peas are procurable. 

Dwarf or French Beans are not safe until 
all danger of frost is over; we find the last week 
in April or first week in May early enough to 
make the first sowing. Another may be made 
in the end of May. again in the middle of June, 
and the last on a warm, sheltered border in July. 
The earliest and latest crops should consist of 
the dwarfest varieties, such as Osborn's Forcing, 
and the mid-seas n ones of Canadian Wonder 
or Black Negro, both excellent and prolific 
sorts. 

Broad Beans are much in request in some 
gardens, and the dwarf, small-podded, prolific 
sort called Beck’s Dwarf Green Gem is really a 
gem, for the quantity of Beans which it bears 
in proportion to the length of the haulm is sur¬ 
prising. Sow this sort in November and again 
in February, and in March make two sowings of 
Wonderful' or Early Hangdown Longpod. In 
April a sowing of Broad Windsor should be 
made. From these tall sorts the points should 
be pinched off when they get 3 feet high —an 
operation which causes the pods to swell out 
much more rapidly and perfectly than if allowed 
to grow to any height. 

Scarlet Runners well repay good cultiva¬ 
tion. Sow them in the end of April in a patch 
of good light soil, and in May take out trenches 
fi ft. apart and transplant them, putting at once 
straight poles for them to cling to. Another 
sowing should be made in the end of May or 
early in June for a late supply, as in favourable 
autumns when frost keeps off they continue to 
bear until very late indeed. For Scarlet Runners 
we usually select a place sheltered by high trees 
or a hedge, as, in addition to wardiug off slight 
f rests, the shelter afforded against high winds is 
of the greatestygervice. 

Go gle 


[Mat 19, 1883 


Cauliflowers or Broccoli are in request 
the whole year round, and except after severe 
frost, are procurable, i e., if there are some cold 
pits in which to winter the plants, and also Broc¬ 
coli of such varieties as Snow’s Winter White, 
Veitch's Self - protecting &c., which, from 
being fit for use at a season when they are liable 
to be attacked by severe frost, are best lifted 
when nearly fit to cut with balls of earth attached 
to the roots, and planted under glass where they 
are free from all danger ; for except in mild win¬ 
ters like that of 1881-82, when we cut Broccoli 
daily all through the winter, it is not safe to leave 
heads nearly St for cutting without some protec¬ 
tion. Early sorts will come in by the end of 
Feburary, and March and April are the months 
in which Broccoli may be had in quantity. It is 
May that proves the value of late Broccoli. The 
seed should he sown the first week in that month; 
the young plants should be planted out in July 
or August, and they should have plenty of space 
in which to grow. Cattell's Eclipse is now in 
fine condition, and promises to last until the 
early Cauliflowers are fit for use. These are 
sown the last week in September, wintered in 
cold frames, and planted out in March. Early 
London and Stadtholder make a good succession 
to each other, and after these are finished, those 
sown under glass in January come iu, and from 
that time Walcheren is one of the best until in 
the autumn Veitch’s Autumn Giant furnishes a 
long supply of excellent heads. We sow a few 
seeds in a box under glass in February and on a 
warm border in March, and never fail to have a 
good supply. 

Cabbages should be youDg, crisp, and succu¬ 
lent. The main crop for spring should be sown 
in July and planted out in September; it will 
be fit for use in April and May. Plants from a 
later sowing wintered in seedbeds and planted 
out in March will become fit for use in June, 
and after these the spring-sown small varieties 
of Cabbage or Coleworts keep up the supply. It 
is a good plan to sow a few rows where they’ are 
to remain in May and June, thinning them out 
to C inches apart; they make an agreeable 
autumn vegetable, and keep up the supply until 
Savoys and Kales come in. These are best sown 
in March and April, and planted out as soon as 
ground is vacant for them; they will keep in 
good condition for a long time, and are useful 
as a reserve when severe frost renders more ten¬ 
der greens scarce. 

Brussels Sprouts are in request from 
October until April, and in order to have fine 
large stalks covered with Sprouts as firm as 
cricket balls, the best plan is to sow a pinch of 
seed in January in a cold frame, pricking the 
young plants out as soon as large enough, and 
finally planting out a yard apart in good soil in 
April for the first crop; and seed sown in the 
open border in March and planted out ‘>k feet 
apart will come in well from Christmas onwards. 

Carrots are in request at all times of the 
year, from the tiny ones pulled from seed beds 
until fully matured roots can be had from the 
store room, and the longer a succession can be 
kept up in all stages of growtli the better. The 
Short Horn or French varieties are much 
superior to the hard cattle Carrots one frequently 
finds offered for sale from want of anything 
better. For very early supplies glass frames are 
necessary, but, failing these, sow on warm 
borders in February in the lightest and most 
sandy soil available; it need not be very rich, 
but it must be light and friable. The earliest 
sowing in spring may be made in February, and 
for this the Early Nantes is an excellent sort. 
Sow again in March for succession, and in April 
sow the main crop in open quarters, James's 
Intermediate is the best garden Carrot, grown. 
In July sow a good breadth of Short Horn for 
use in the form of young Carrots, to be drawn 
from the ground as required during the winter. 

OsiONsare not much inrequeetinayounghalf- 
grown state ; and to have a good supply of fully- 
grown bulbs in spring and autumn, one sowing 
in spring will generally be sufficient. For 
the main crop sow in March after Celery in rows 
a foot apart, and to stand the winter sow again, 
as a rule, in August. These can he used from the 
seedbed in a green state or transplanted on 
fresh soil 1 foot apart, when they will grow 
nearly as large as imported Spanish Onions if 
well supplied with liquid food in hot weather. 
The Globe, Flat Tripoli, and Giant Iiocca are 
good sorts for the purpose. 


Turnips, another all-the-year-round vegetal!; 
arc best when grown quickly on quite fresh soil 
Make small sowings in February and March cs 
warm borders, butas they are very liable to run is 
seed early, sow about once a month for a regular 
supply afterwards until the beginning of Angus: 
when the main winter crop may be sown. Like 
most other vegetables, Turnips are best pulled 
for use direct from the ground ; they should only 
be stored on the approach of severe weather, a 
for the latest Bupply in spring, when, if left 
longer in the soil, they would start into growth 

Spinach is divided into two classes, the Itocue- 
seeded or summer Spinach, which is usually sowr 
in drills between rows of Peas, and if sown st 
the same dates as the Peas, there need be bo! 
little fear of ever being without a dish of this 
excellent vegetable. The Prickly-seeded or win¬ 
ter Spinach is a much hardier kind, and is 
usually sown in beds containing five or six row; 
each. Borne time in August. When ups, thin oat 
to 0 inches apart, and keep the ground clean It 
frequent hoeing; in winter protect with ere 
green branches laid over the beds. 

Celery is essentially a winter crop, but fa 
kitchen use it is more or less in demand at all 
times. Sow for the first crop in boxes of light eoi 
in February, and prick out under glass lights • 
soon as the young plants are ready. Aboot ; 
inches of soil spread on some hard foundation,- 
the best place for it. Plant ont in trenches is 
April and May, and from later sowings in Joe 
July, and August, as the latest of all will a 
valuable in spring for flavoring sonps and ' 
other culinary uses. By taking up some of 'it 
latest and laying it in by the heels in a shah 
place, it may be preserved until that sown k 
spriDg is lit to keep up the supply. 

VEGF.TABLE Marbows should be fonrarr 
by getting the plants as strong as possible nrir 
glass for planting out in April on hot-beds, IT 
hand-glasses or cloches for sheltering the 
until the middle of May. Another sowing Eta 
in the end of April and planted out in J£i» 1 
will keep up succession until frost cuts then; £ 

Lettuces, Endive, an 1 other salad pbc 
require great attention as to dates of BO*is 
Lettuces may be sown from February to NT- 
tember fora supply all the year round; in ex 
mer they are best sown where they are a 
mature. Good rich soil and plenty of moisto 
form the best antidote against running to see-i 
and a small sowing every fortnight will keep a 
a better supply tha i double the quantity am 
once a month. Endive is prized most in antom 
and winter, but it may be had at any time i 
required. Sow from May to August, phs 
out 1 foot apart, and blanch by tyiDg it up a 
covering it with inverted flower-pots, or lift ta 
plants and replant them in a dark shed orcella. 
Radishes should be sown once a fortnight fret 
February to September, as they quickly beccc: 
hard and astringent. Moist, friable soil cl» 
sandy character is best for Radishes, Cherc. 
Parsley, Mustard and Cress, and other herbs ill 
require forethought in sowing a little 
often, so as to always have enough for use wii- 
out waste, as waste soon brings warn in garda- 
ing, as in other matters, and when once a com:: 
estimate of the demand is made the supply * 
be easily regulated. J 


Transplanting Scarlet Runners- 

The Scarlet Runner comes in well for groutd 
that is cleared of Broccoli and other spring enffi, 
and it can be got up to a good size while be 
preceding crop is yet occupying its quarters ife 
usually spread a barrowful of rich light soil, 3 
inches in thickness, on some hard gravel or cosl- 
ash foundation; on this we lay the Scarlet 
Runner Beans, and cover them with another 
inch of fine soil. For the first crop we sow 
about the middle of April, and for succession the 
middle of May. If the soil is moist they will re¬ 
quire no water, and, being in a small compass, 
are readily protected on frosty nights with mats 
or branches. As soon as the plants are ready to 
move we dig out trenches, as if for Celery, but 
not quite so deep, and after digging in some 
good manure return nearly all the soil taken 
out; we then lift the plants carefully, and put 
them in the centre of the trench, about a foot 
apart. Straight poles, 8 feet or 10 feet highj 
are placed at once on each side of the row, and 
fastened to others placed horizontally aboutf 
feet from the ground. In the case of Broccoli 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


127 


Mir 19, 1883] 


)ne can get the trenches ready, even before the 
‘arop i« cleared, by digging them ont between 
‘ jvery third row. After the Runners begin to 
lOTer the poles a mulching of manure will be of 
jreat benefit to them.—J. 6. L. 

T.! 9667.— Gourde and Vegetable Mar¬ 
rows. —Those who wish to ensure success in 
, the cultivation of these should sow the seed 
,Jn a gentle heat about the middle of April. In 
May or June the young plants should be planted 
out on well-manured mounds of earth, one in 
each mound, and not less than 6 feet or 7 feet 
apart, protecting them at night for some time 
with hand-glasses. During dry weather they 
should be copiously watered, and plenty of liquid 
manure should also be given them, as they are 
gross feeders, the Gourds especially. Gourds 
may be trained up a trellis, and are very useful 
for covering unsightly heaps of rubbish, Ac. 
Several kinds are edible, but the flesh is naturally 
coarser than that of the Vegetable Marrow. The 
best kinds of Vegetable Marrows are Custard, 
Long White, and Moore's Cream, all of which I 
have tried and can recommend.— J. L. Loudon. 

Early Munich Turnip.—We are now 
using, and have been using for the past fort¬ 
night, this exceedingly useful Turnip, the pro¬ 
duce of seed sown on a west border early in 
March. It forms a very serviceable dish, and 
now when old Turnips are useless, except for 
flavouring, it is much appreciated. I would 
advise growers wbe are fond of Turnips to sow 
this for their first crop, and then follow with 
Early Snowball, which I consider one of the best 



Early Munich Turnip. 

for summer use. The Munich scarcely ever 
fails to give an extra, early, and good crop; at 
least such is my experience, and I have grown it 
for my earliest crop with the result stated. I find 
it to be a good and safe plan to coat with red 
lead the seed for my first crops. Turnips, Brussels 
Sprouts, Cabbages, Cauliflowers, and, in fact, 
all small seeds thus treated are less disturbed 
by vermin than when sown in the usual way. 
-J. C. _ 

COTTAGE GARDEN SOCIETIES. 

9661—In forming societies of this descrip¬ 
tion—and they are alwayB formed with the best 
intentions—it is most important that all appa¬ 
rent attempts to patronise cottagers should be 
rigidly kept out, of sight. It is also important 
that the too common vice of assuming all in¬ 
tending cottagers' exhibitions to be deceitful, 
and hence subjecting their gardens to the most 
rigid censorship and inspection, should not be 
tolerated. If cottage garden exhibitions only 
lead to deceit and attempts to cheat, far better 
have no shows whatever. It is rather the morale 
of the cottagers than their gardens which need 
improving. But where a bona fide effort is made 
to establish a cottage garden society, with the 
intent to offer prizes for the best kept and culti¬ 
vated gardens, and also for the best garden 
produce, it is very easy for the promoters 
to satisfy themselves as to the uprightness of 
exhibitors—if there be reasonable cause for 
suspicion—without in any way making such 
suspicions general or apparent, and that can 
be done by maxing a condition that all who enter 
for prizes at the local show shall also enter their 
gardens or allotments in the class or classes for 
the best kept and cultivated cottage or allotment 
gardens. In this way, whatever the views of the 
promoters in the matter of bona fide exhibits, 

. they are not made apparent. The judging of 
cottage gardens is one of the most useful por¬ 
tions of a cottage garden society's operations, 
and to discharge the duty well it should be done 
in not less than two visits, say tho first a month 
preceding the second, and the latter should 
precede the show not more than a week. In this 
way not only will the judges be enabled to satisfy 

Digitized by CjOOQlC 


themselves qnietly as to the nature of the 
exhibits each cottager may have, but, far more 
important, may ascertain whether the garden 
has been well and profitably cropped for the 
entire season, or only to make an effective show 
in the autumn. 

Distrust should never be allowed to exhibit 
itself, even though individual cases may arise in 
which such distrust is unavoidable. Working men, 
asa rule, are honest, and the slightest evidence of 
distrust towards them will often lead to distrust 
by them in return. Now, as a rule, cottagers’ 
shows should not be held earlier than the month 
of August, and, if possible, still later. The 
autumn crops are always the most useful and 
profitable crops, and such as Potatoes, Cabbages, 
Turnips, Marrows, Runner Beans, Onions, and 
Parsnips excel all others in permanent value and 
usefulness. Therefore it is always best to have 
cottagers’ Bhows in the autumn, and rather late 
than early, especially as, in searching for the 
best samples, if the show be early, very much 
injury is often wrought amongst the crops that 
are far from being matured. These important 
considerations should always weigh with the 
promoters of cottagers’ exhibitions. It is, there¬ 
fore, yet a good time to set about the formation 
of a cottage garden society, and the first thing 
to do is to evoke on the one hand the active help 
and co-operation of richer neighbours by getting 
their patronage and subscriptions, also that of 
some of the more influential residents to form an 
executive committee, president, vice-presidents, 
treasurer, secretary, &c. The committee, the real 
working body, need not exceed nine or twelve 
persons in number, and in addition to including 
the working promoters, should also include one 
or two of the neighbouring gentlemen’s gardeners, 
whose practical knowledge and advice is always 
useful; and also a couple or so of the most worthy 
of the cottagers themselves, as in so adding their 
own representatives confidence is exhibited 
towards and secured from the very class it is 
intended to help. 

A few simple rules and regulations, and the 
fewer the better, suffice, such as the name of 
society, officers, radius of district, membership 
and annual subscription, annual meetings, and 
certain regulations as to the judging of the 
gardens and the arrangements of the show. It 
is well to get every cottager to become a sub¬ 
scribing member if possible, even though the 
annual payment be but a small one. The fact 
that he is a bona Jide member gives him an in¬ 
terest in the society that he would not other¬ 
wise possess, and shows to him that in being so 
admitted he is not by his assumed betters 
regarded as an inferior animal, whose position 
is somewhat degraded and needs amelioration. 
If there be less anxiety shown to make the man 
moral, and more to make him a good gardener 
and a lover of the sweetest avocation under the 
sun, then*the rest will presently follow. 

A. D. 


Gloss cloches.—I find these invaluable for 
nil outdoor propagating purposes, and far better 
than hand-lights. One would not snspect with¬ 
out a trial what a difference they make to the 
plants. Lettuces sown under the cloches with¬ 
out any other protection whatever are three 
weeks earlier at least than those sown beside 
them without protection. I should advise buyers 
to procure cloches with holes in the top, how¬ 
ever, like a bell-glass, as those without holes get 
rather hot on sunny days, and are not so easily 
handled. The latter are best for very early work, 
however. The cloche is a puzzle as regards venti¬ 
lation. From the day the seed is sown or the 
cuttings put in ours are never lifted off except at 
long intervals to give water; they have no holes, 
and are set close to the soil, so that any air the 
plants get must come out of the ground. No 
moulding or mildewing is observable under such 
conditions, but all is sweet and clean. Great 
destruction may, however, happen to the cloches 
themselves during sharp frosts if their rims are 
sunk any depth in the ground. On one occasion 
after a thaw I was very much surprised on lifting 
some of the cloches to find that about 2 inches of 
rim remained in the soil perfectly entire, and as 
cleanly severed as if it had been cut round by 
a diamond just at the junction with the soil. 
It was, of course, unequal expansion and con¬ 
traction that was the chief cause of the mischief. 
Since then we have been careful to set them on 
the surface of the soil.—J. 8. W. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Oar den Diary—May 21 to 
May 26. 

Potting Pelargoniums and Petunias for the autumn 
decoration of the conservatory. Sowing Green Curled 
Endive between rows of Peas. Planting Vegetable Mar¬ 
rows and Ridge Cucumbers, affording them the protec¬ 
tion of hand-lights or mats by night, aud slightly shading 
them from the sun by day. Thinning spring-sown Onions, 
afterwards hoeing the ground between the rowB ; sowing 
Giant White Cos. I very's Nonsuch, All the Year Round, 
and Tom Thumb Lettuces. Planting out Celery. Mulching 
Raspberries with half-rotted manure. Giving Plum trees 
on walls a good washing with Quassia-chip water to keep 
off green fly. Sowing American Red-topTurnips. Planting 
out Tomatoes in warm situations; also Early Cabbage, 
Lettuce, and Cauliflower plants. Putting In Fuchsia 
cuttings to furnish a batch of young flowering plants in 
autumn. Pricking out Celery plants in very rich soil, 
aud keeping them well supplied with water. Sowing 
Autumn Self-protecting Broccoli to come in for winter 
use. Potting Chrysanthemums intended for standards 
into 8-inch pots. Sowing another crop of Scarlet Runners, 
Veitch’s Perfection, and No Plus Ultra Peas; also Parsley 
in well watered drills. Cutting out dead Laurels, and 
removing overhanging boughs of treeB and shrubs In 
pleasure grounds. Plunging outdoor pot Roses in a 
sunny situation. Nailing in leading growths of Peaches, 
Nectarines, and Apricot trees. 

Sowing Green-curled and Broad-leaved Endive. Looking 
over British Queen and President ftrawberries in the 
open ground, and picking off all the late aud weak 
blossoms, eo as to make sure of some fine fruit, and 

n them netted. Sowing Mignonette in fl inch pots 
oor decoration; also sowing Red Globe Turnip 
and Cole worts. Training creepers on house sides and on 
verandah. Dibbling in and watering Spinach seed where 
blanks have been caused in the rows. Top-dresaiDg 
Lilium auratum. Sowing Canadian Wonder French Beans 
and Radishes. Hoeing amongst all growing crops. Dust¬ 
ing Turnips early in the morning with lime and soot to 
keep off the green fly. Hoeing among Straw berry plants 
and afterwards mulching them with snort Grass. Placing 
Primulas In cold frames, and shading them from the 
direct rays of the sun. Nailing the leading shoots of 
wall fruit trees. Putting in cuttings of double Wall¬ 
flowers and Alyssum. Planting Snow’s Winter White 
and Walcheren Broccoli. Shifting Balsams and Cocks¬ 
combs into flowering pots. 

Glasshouses. 

Rentas. — Free - flowering, quick - growing 
plantslike thiswell deservecultivation. 1'. carnea 
strikes freely in the usual way in warmth if 
kept moist, close, and shaded. If cuttings are 
put in now they will make good flowering plants 
by the end of the summer. Old examples well 
cut back now, if given moderate pot room, will 
push up a quantity of shoots that will flower in 
a short time, as every shoot produces bloom. It 
succeeds in any kind of tolerably good soil that 
is not too heavy. 

Panicum vabiegatum. —Wherever there is a 
stove or intermediate house, a good stock of this 
prettily variegated drooping plant should be 
grown ; it looks well in hanging pots or baskets, 
and is never seen to better advantage than when 
forming an edgiog, so as to hang down in front 
of the side stages. A sufficient quantity of cut¬ 
tings should be put in from time to time, as old 
plants get too large for some purposes. 

Daturas.— Old plants of there cultivated in 
pots and wintered out of the reach of frost will 
have now broken into growth. If they are in 
want of more root-room they must be shifted at 
once into larger pots or tubs, giving them good, 
rich loam. Where there is a large conservatory 
to keep furnished, several of these showy plants 
may with advantage be grown so as to give a 
succession of bloom, which can easily be obtained 
by starting them at intervals. Those that 
commenced growth and which were potted 
earlier will now have got hold of the new toil, 
and should have plenty of air and light to pre¬ 
vent the shoots from becoming drawn, a con¬ 
dition in which they do not flower freely. 

Mignonette. —In large greenhouses and con¬ 
servatories large examples of this plant are often 
preferable to small ones, and in order to have 
them of the required size, and with the requisite 
amount of healthy foliage, they will require 
proportionate pot room, but with this plant I 
have not found it well to give too large shifts. It 
is better to move them frequently. Mignonette 
likes fairly rich soil, keeping the plants stopped 
as they require it; a good place in a light house 
or pit, and plenty of air to insure stout leaves l hat 
will maintain a healthy condition, are indispen¬ 
sable. Plants with indifferent foliage are un¬ 
sightly, however full of flower they may be. A 
little more seed may be sown now, and if well 
attended to the produce will yet attain a useful 
size. The new white variety is very beautiful ; 
the flowers aro individually very large, and so 
double that it produces little, if any seed; it has 
therefore to be propagated by cuttings. For 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[May 19, 1883 


pot culture, however, this is no serious obstacle, 
and the plant has such a fine appearance that it 
deserves all the attention needful to insure 
success. T. B. 

Flower Garden. 

Roses, climbers, and annuals.— It will be 
advisable to keep a strict out-look for fly and 
mildew, in order that remedial measures may be 
taken. To destroy fly-, there is nothing better 
than clear water, applied with force through a 
syringe or garden engine; for mildew use soap¬ 
suds, and whilst the plants are still wet dust 
them over with sulphur. Should leaf-rolling 
maggots be troublesome, the only sure cure is to 
pick them off and burn the leaves in which they 
are ensconced. Keep all that have been recently 
planted thickly mulched, and in dry weather 
water freely. Brier stocks should be kept clear 
of all shoots except those that are to be budded, 
and root suckers should be destroyed as soon as 
perceived. The foregoing remarks are equally 
applicable to Roses on walls and verandahs, with 
this addition, that where there are projecting 
eaves that prevent rain reaching or washing the 
plants, artificial watering will be more frequently 
requisite. Clematises and other climbers now 
need weekly attention as to direction of growth 
and training; sticks or strings should be placed 
to such annual climbers as Canary Creepers, 
Nasturtiums, Convolvuluses, Scarlet Runners, and 
Sweet Peas before there is any danger of the 
growth getting matted together. Seeds of all 
these may still be sown, and also of the quickest 
growing dwarf annuals, such as Virginian Stocks, 
Candytufts, Clarkias, Limnanthes, and Nemo- 
philas, and finish planting out Asters, Stocks, 
Phlox Drummondi, Zinnias, Indian Pinks, French 
and African Marigolds, ornamental Grasses, and 
Everlastings. 

General work.— Just now bedding out is 
the principal operation—work that whilst it lasts 
too often monopolises one's entire labour, but for 
which there is no occasion if an early beginning 
be made, say early in May, and the hardy kinds 
be planted first, finishing up the tender sorts 
early in June. In this way time may inter¬ 
mittently be spared for hoeing and weeding 
shrubberies, picking off dead flowers and seed 
vessels from Rhododendrons and Azaleas, tying 
up perennials, clipping verges, weeding walks, 
mowing, and any other jobs that tend to the 
perfection of neatness. W. W. 

Flowers and Plants In Booms. 

A LARGE table bouquet is of full-sized shoots of 
Solomon’s Seal and Dielytra spectabilis, with 
pink herbaceous Pseonies ; another of tall white 
Florentine Iris, rising from the handsome leaves 
of Veratrum, with bold groups of double Poet's 
Daffodil cut their full length of about. 22 inches. 
A large jar of palest green pottery holds Moutan 
l’monies, pale and deep pink; and a wide brass 
bowl is full of Lilacs. A sunny wall gives a 
bunch of the large, loose, coppery flowers of 
Fortune's Yellow Rose and of Safrano, which 
are arranged with the abundant young red- 
coloured foliage of the latter. A broad blue 
china bowl is brilliant with orange, yellow, and 
white—Alpine Wallflower, Cheiranthus Marshalli, 
Welsh Poppy, and double Saxifrage (S. gran ulata). 
A large bunch of Lily of the Valley, with plenty 
of leaves, is held in an antique engraved glass. 
Clematis montana is thickly grouped in a shallow 
bowl with red-tinted young foliage of Berberis. 
A low white china bowl of basket pattern holds 
pink China Roses and an early pale yellow 
Honeysuckle; a bunch of Weigela rosea is also 
in white china. There are still gatherings from 
the greenhouse of Rubus rosiefolius, a most use¬ 
ful plant that has been continuously in flower 
since Christmas. The dinner-table is dressed 
with Azalea mollis, deep orange and rosy 
salmon-coloured, in baskets of cream-coloured 
Leeds ware. G. J 


Orchard tiouSES.—When the fruit begins to 
soften for ripening, syringing may be discon¬ 
tinued and the supply of water to the roots con¬ 
siderably reduced, but at no time must the 
watering be discontinued, as a flagging state of 
the trees will soon destroy the sprightly flavour, 
if it does not lead to the prematureripeningand 
dropping of the fruit. As safeguards, trees 
which have rooted into beds or borders should 
not be disturbed, as feeders of this kind always 
send up e steadj; supply; and the pots after 

Digitized by GOOgle 


being well watered should be heavily mulched 
to keep in moisture. When the time arrives for 
gathering, remove every fruit before it is ripe 
enough to fall from the tree, place them in 
shallow boxes well bedded with soft, dry Moss, 
and convey them to a dry, airy room for use 
when in condition. 

In the late or general house fruit of all kinds 
is now swelling away freely, and good syringing 
twice a day will be indispensable. Always use 
soft water if it can be obtained, and see that 
every part of the tree is well bathed, otherwise 
aphis and spider will soon attack the Peaches, 
Plums, and Cherries. Pay daily attention to 
pinching and thinning where strong, upright 
growths are robbing the lower parts of the trees. 
Give an abundance of water to the roots, and add 
stimulants where feeding is considered necessary. 
As the fruit gets more advanced and the stoning 
process begins to draw upon the trees, frequent 
additions of the richest material to the mulching 
and constant feeding with warm, diluted liquid 
may be indulged in without fear of forcing a gross 
habit, as is sometimes the case when this treat¬ 
ment follows immediately after the flowering 
period. Thin out the fruit of Peaches, Nectarines, 
Pears, and Cherries where too thickly set, always 
bearing in mind that light crops of fine fruit give 
the greatest amount of satisfaction to producer 
and consumer, and pay best when sent into the 
market. If Strawberries still occupy the shelves, 
an effort should be made to keep them quite clear 
of the trees, and in a position favourable to 
copious feeding and good syringing without 
fear of injury to the permanent occupants of the 
house. 

Hardy fruit. —By this time the disbudding 
of Peaches and Apricots should have been 
brought to a close, and laying in and the stopping 
of gross shoots will require attention. If the 
broad copiDgs have not been removed, frequent 
syringing will be necessary and highly beneficial 
to the fruit and foliage, and copious waterings on 
well-drained borders will be found a powerful 
aid in keeping the trees clean and healthy. Pears 
on south and west walls, also the most forward 
pyramids, will now be sufficiently advanced in 
growth to require attention to stopping and 
thinning. In years gone by it was the practice 
to allow a free and unrestricted growth of 
breast wood until the middle of July, but now we 
find the continuous pinching of the strongest 
shoots invigorates the weak ones and leads to 
the formation of blossom-bearing spurs, whereas 
the July pruning produces a violent check at a 
time when the half-swelled fruit is in the 
greatest need of encouragement. The early 
thinning of the fruit on Pear trees should not 
be entered up@n rashly, as many promising fruits 
fall off after the inexperienced have set them 
down as safe ; but heavily cropped trees may be 
relieved by the removal of all badly formed and 
inferior fruits, which cannot grow into value if 
allowed to remain.—W. C. 

Vegetables. 

Ridge Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows may 
be planted out at any time, if they can be 
afforded the protection of hand-lights; and by¬ 
way of starting them quickly into growth, a 
slight bottom-heat is desirable, and easily created 
by the use of lawn mowings and stable litter; 
about 2 feet in depth will be ample, and as the 
material cools down the roots of the plants will 
soon establish themselves in it. Seedling plants 
of Thyme, Basil, Sweet Marjoram, and Sage, 
should be pricked out under shelter, and may be 
permanently transplanted in the open ground 
about the end of the month. Sow Lettuces and 
Radishes once a fortnight; the former should 
now be sown where the plants are to grow, as 
transplanting in dry weather entailB much 
labour in watering, and even if this be afforded 
the plants receive a severe check. Asparagus 
beiDg now in full bearing, Seakale may be dis¬ 
pensed with; any yet covered should therefore 
now be exposed, and gaps in the plantation be 
made good by dibbling in sets made from pieces 
of roots 3 inches or -1 inches long. Salt is a 
valuable fertiliser for this esculent, and should 
be scattered over the surface after the ground is 
dug. 

'■V Celery.—E arly-sown Celery should now be 
put out; if the trenches have been prepared be¬ 
forehand run the hoe over the surface to destroy 
any weeds that may be vegetating. Give the 
plants a good soaking with water before moving 


them; remove them with as many roots i| 
possible, and as much soil as will adhere to 
them. In moving Celery plants, there should 
never bo occasion for the now almost ob, 
solete practice of cutting off or shortemeg 
a considerable portion of the leaves as 
planting time; on the contrary, Celery, more 
than most crops, should never, throughout the 
whole course of its cultivation, from the Aim 
the plants appear above ground until they am 
fit for use, receive a check more than is insepa- 
able from transplanting them, even when thaS 
operation is performed with care. If the trencka 
have been prepared for double or treble rows, 
put the plants in 1 foot apart each way; iffo< 
single rows, 9 inches between each plant will be 
sufficient for ordinary purposes. In making tie 
holes, use a planting trowel, and see that they 
are large enough to admit the roots withes! 
crushing them together; give each row a good 
watering as soon as planted. Celery costs men 
in manure and attention to grow well thanes 
most vegetables, and it is worth while to treat 
it in a way calculated to produce it in g 
condition. 

Leeks and Onions. — When indifferently 
grown, Leeks are little better for the purpese 
for which they are required than Onions. To 
obtain the peculiar mild flavour which Leeki 
possess when large and freely grown, the plat: 
must not be allowed to become stunted by being 
too close in the seed-bed ; to prevent this, tit! 
them out so as to leave them 6 inches opart 
Spring-sown Onions should be thinned before 
they get too large. Take advantage of the ail 
being moist after rain to do this, if it be hard 
and dry, the limited quantity grown by matt 
may be watered, so that the removal of any neo 
not injure those that remain, which ofte 
happens when the ground is hard. Ks toll* 
distance the plants are left apart in thincii: 
account must be taken of the kinds grout 
Large kinds, such as Rocca or Nunebam Pi* 
require double the room necessary for sta! 
varieties like Danvers or James's LoDg Keepits 
if it be desired to grow well-developed bulbs of 
the large-growing kinds, these should bethinsd 
so as to leave them 8 inches or 9 inches apart b 
the row; the smaller-growing, later-keeps-- 
sorts will not require more than half that not 
Where some are required for pickling, a poitir. 
of the smallest-growing kinds may be left 
(unless they have come up very thickly) Kite: 
thinning at all. 

WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN 

Outdoor garden. —Towards the end of May. 
a great improvement in the appearance of every¬ 
thing, particularly out-of-doors, is apparent in 
the town garden. In the sweet country air there 
is nearly always something in beauty, from 
year's end to year’s end ; but in the smokj anas 
sphere of a large town, almost ail outdoor plants 
have anything but a flourishing appeared 
through the winter and early spring mouths, 
as a rule; from about the middle of May. 
however, to the end of October, a pea; 
change takes place, and with good cultin- 
tion quite a rural effect may be product. 
The only conclusion to which we can com 
under the circumstances is to “make bay 
while the sun shines and if in the dark day* 
very little good seems to result from our labour- 
beyond a general neat effect, of course, now 
when our efforts do produce palpable and row 
pleasant fruit, let us make the most of the time 
given ns. 

Herbaceous plants set out about a month aye 
will now have taken hold of the soil, and i 
growing rapidly. Keep such as require supporr 
properly staked as they grow, stud see that they 
do not want for water in dry seasons. German 
and Ten-week Stocks that were raised <maM 
glass should now be at once planted out, these" 
having previously been prepared and liberally 
enriched. Such planting is much better dote 
during showery or dull weather, as Stocks in 
psirticular are very liable to wilt badiy if flat” 
planted on a bright day. If the sun shines 
strongly within two or three days, shade of some 
kind must be given, or the plants will softer. 
Asters, unless sown very- early, will hardly e 
sufficiently advanced to be placed in their dower¬ 
ing quarters, but when fit the same precautions 
should be taken. ,. 

Indian and Chinese I’inks, Phlox DrummoM > 
Sunflowers, and several other annuals that * 



Mat 19, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILL USTRA1 ED 


129 


ten raised under cover, must also be put out as 
on as sufficiently strong; at present all such, 
well as nearly all the most tender tropical 
:dding-out subjects, should be gradually 
irdened off in cold frames. It is still too early 
plant out Geraniums, Lobelias, tec.; Dahlias 
•e now quite safe in cold frames if a mat is 
irown over on a cool night; do not let these 
;t very much cramped in small pots, but shift 
to -i^-inch or even 6-inch pots if necessary, 
:fore planting. 

In th$ greenhouse there should be plenty 
Zonal Pelargoniums, Petunias (both single 
id double), Cinerarias, Calceolarias, with a few 
.rly show Pelargoniums and Fuchsias. Some 
the best Fuchsias for early flowering are Mrs. 
arehall, Lustre, Sedan, Elizabeth Marshall, 
id l’ink Perfection. If old plants of these are 
aken out in February, repotted in rich loam 
id leaf-mould, and kept moist and growing in 
penial temperature of 60° to 75°, with a little 
ade, they will be in full flower by the present 
ne. In a warm house Gloxinias are advancing 
pidly; keep the seedlings pricked off as fast 
they touch each other, and prepare for pot- 
ip off the forwardest singly when large enough, 
d plants started early will now be coming into 
wer; keep them moist and shaded, and assist 
th a little weak manure water as the blooms 
e. Vines need constant attention as to stop- 
lg the shoots and laterals. Maintain a moist 
nosphere in the house until the bloom 
pands, when it must be allowed to become 
ier for a time. Rhynchospermum jasminoides, 
/ery desirable greenhouse climber, with white 
eet-scented flowers, is in full beauty just now. 
Chrysanthemums that have been potted off 
ould now be plunged in ashes in a sunny 
sition out of doors, where they will grow much 
*ter and stronger than if coddled under glass. 
;ep them shifted on into larger pots, using 
od rich soil, as often as they require it; any 
juired to make really fine plants should now 
in at least 6-inch or 7-inch pots. If fine 
wersare desired and height is no objection, 
:e stopping at 6 inches or 8 inches high will be 
ficient. 

Window boxes must now be in readiness 
■ their occupants, though the end of the moDth 
11 be quite time enough to fill them. We much 
;fer filling the boxes with Cocoa-nut fibre and 
mging the plants in this to the planting out 
item. One great advantage is, that if a plant 
B 2- B wrong, or out of flower, it can be replaced 
a moment; another, that the boxes last five 
nes a* long by the former plan. The most do¬ 
able plants for window boxes are Zonal Pe- 
goniums of sorts, Fuchsias, upright growing 
es for the back row, those of drooping habit 
the front; Calceolarias (shrubby), Petunias, 
th double and single ; tuberous Begonias, Be¬ 
nia Weltoniensis, tec.; Lobelias and Coleus, 
ocks, Balsams, and others are very showy for 
;ime, but not so lasting as the others. A plant 
two of Maurandya, Lophospermum, Thun- 
rgia, or the beautiful Plumbago capensis, set 
each end of the box, and trained up each side 
e window on st rings or wires, gives an exquisite 
ash to the whole. B. C. R. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


hydrangeas for greenhouses. 

he common Hydrangea makes a useful and 
towy decorative plant for the spring months, 
id one that possesses the advantage of being, 
it were, insect proof—a great recommendation, 
uttings struck in March, April, or even May, 
ake handsome plants in twelve months, and 
e useful in the conservatory or for other indoor 
ork. A good way to produce satisfactory plants 
to take cuttings during the months named, 
electing the short stout growths (with plump 
?ntre bud) which spring from the base of old 
lants in heat; place each cutting in a 2 J-inch 
ot in a mixture of light soil in which there is 
tenty of sand, plunge them in a propagating 
fcuse or hot-bed, and as soon as rooted lift, them 
at of the plunging material a day or two previous 
• potting them into 4-inch or 5-inch pots—those 
J w hich they are to flower. A good compost for 
u two parts loam, one leaf noil, and a dash 
'f coarse sand. When potted keep them close 
ora few days in an intermediate temperature, 
"creasing air given gradually until *tune, when 
Kt may be set out in full sunshine plunged in 

Digitized by VjOOQl 


The chief aim must be to keep them dwarf and 
sturdy, as on that, combined with the wood beiEg 
well ripened, depends their flowering in a satis¬ 
factory manner. The central growth bud should, 
while growing in summer, be as plump as one’s 
thumb; and the leaves stout and leathery in 
texture. While out-of-doors the plants will 
require an abundance of water, and when the 
pots are full of roots, weak manure water should 
be given at every watering in preference to 
stroDg doses at intervals. I am of opinion that 
the roots of many plants are ruined by adminis¬ 
tering too strong doses of liquid manure to them 
when pot-bound. Towards the end of summer 
the supply of water may be lessened and the 
manure water entirely dispensed with ; the 
growths being thus encouraged to ripen will cast 
their foliage, and the plants will go to rest ; 
then remove them to a cold frame, or, better 
still, a cool dry house, such as a vinery from 
which the fruit has been cleared, keeping them 
rather dry. 

If required to be in perfection in March, start 
a few of the plants in November, the pots being 
well washed ; place them in an intermediate 
temperature close up to the glass ; there they 
will make slow but sure progress, and the 
flowers will acquire a beautiful pink colour. 
Here also they will need the same attention as 
regards keeping them sturdy and giving them 
manure water. Where it is desired to have only 
a siDgle stem, the side shoots springing from the 
base must be removed, and may be used to in¬ 
crease the stock. Full energy will thus be thrown 
into the centre growth. Treated thus, we get 
very large heads, and find them most valuable 


for boxes and placing in groups in halls, tec., 
but for conservatory work the whole of the 
shoots had better be retained, and, provided 
they have been judiciously grown and ripened 
the previous summer, they will each produce 
a head nearly as large as the central one. We 
have plants here now treated as above with a 
dozen or more beads of bloom on them of a 
beautiful pink colour, set off by handsome green 
foliage—in short, specimens admired by all who 
see them. C. B. B. 


Begonia semperflorens.- This Begonia 
is one of the most useful of the genus. As its 
name implies, it is really ever blooming. Sprays 
of it cut off with a flower truss or two on tnem 
will be found to be excellent in many ways for 
floral decoration, the pale green of its foliage 
and the pearly white flowers being always effec¬ 
tive. The new variety, of which the accompany¬ 
ing illustration is an example, is a rose-coloured 
form, which will be found to be a good com¬ 
panion to the older kind. This newer sort will, 
I think, prove valuable for conservatory decora¬ 
tion, and can in many ways be turned to good 
account. One great advantage of Begonias be¬ 
longing to this class is that they are very flori- 
ferous in small pots; even in 3-inch ones they 
flower freely. The white kind I find comes per- 
/fictly true from and plants raised in this 


way are more robust than they are from cuttings. 
Young and vigorous plants from seed sown this 
spring will soon be in flower, the blos¬ 
soms being much larger than those on 
a plant struck from a cutting. The new rose- 
coloured kind is, I believe, largely raised 
from seed. I saw at least a great number 
of it so propagated in a private establishment 
lately. Where raised from cuttings, a batch of 
them put in occasionally will be found the best 
plan. The oldest struck can then be cast aside 
when somewhat exhausted. During the summer 
a light, airy house will be found to suit them 
well; for winter blooming a warm greenhouse 
will be about the best place for them, taking 
care to keep the stock in a rather dry position. 
Though requiring a free supply of water at the 
roots, these Begonias, like other species of the 
genus grown for their flowers, do not require 
nearly so much atmospheric moisture as is often 
accorded to them. In potting, use a good mix¬ 
ture of peat, loam, and sand, the first named 
material being allowed to predominate in a slight 
de?ree.—J. H. 

Propagating show Pelargoniums,— 

I find there is no better time in the whole year 
for propagating what are called show Pelar¬ 
goniums than the month of May. The young 
growth at this season is in the best possible 
condition for emitting roots. The side shoots 
should now be taken off and made into cuttings ; 
three joints will be ample for each cutting. The 
pots for their reception should be 4 inches in 
diameter, and a few crocks should be placed in 
the bottom of each for drainage ; any light soil 
in which there is a fair proportion of sand will 
serve for a compost. When put¬ 
ting in the cuttings press the 
soil firmly about them; then 
they should be gently watered. 
A hotbed is the best place in 
which to strike them; they 
should have a temperature of 
from 70° to 80°, and should be 
shaded from bright sunshine 
until rooted. They also strike 
freely in a propagating frame if 
not kept too dark and too damp ; 

I mean such frames as are 
inside another structure. I have 
omitted to say that three cut¬ 
tings may be placed in a 4-incli 
pot, but where there is plenty 
of room I should prefer to pur. 
them singly in 3-inch pots. When 
rooted they must be shifted on 
or potted off as the case may 
be. but it is not advisable in 
doing this to use very large 
pots. After they are potted 
off, a warm close pit or frame 
is the best place for them for a 
few weeks—in fact, until they 
have grown sufficiently to re¬ 
quire topping; when that is 
done they may be taken to a 
light, airy pit or greenhouse 
stage, and as soon as they 
have made side shoots 1 inch long they should 
be shifted into larger pots, anjd topping the 
shoots must be continued. In this way fair-si zed 
specimens may be obtained for flowering next 
year.—J. C. C. 

Two good, table plants .—Reidia glau- 
cescens and Grevillea robusta are two of the most 
elegant of all plants for table decoration or simi¬ 
lar uses. The Reidia is somewhat tender, and on 
that account best adapted for summer use; it 
strikes freely from cuttings, provided they are 
taken off with a heel when about 3 inches or 
4 inches in length. They are best obtained by 
cutting off the heads of such old plants as have 
got bare at bottom; thus treated they will quickly 
push out young growths if kept in a warm house; 
as the shoots get large enough to strike and are 
taken off, the old stems will go on breaking out 
afresh, thus affording a considerable stock before 
the end of the season. The Grevilleas, of which 
the variety just mentioned is the best for use 
in this way, will strike from cuttings procured 
and treated like those of the last-named plant, but 
they are nevertheless best grown from seed, as 
in that way they make more elegant plants in a 
comparatively short time. Their leaves are not 
so persistent as those of some things ; on the 
contrary', they fall off at the bottom and leave 
the base of the plants bare; on this account the 
atook sboidd be kept up- bv s'^ce^n^onwLeowings*- 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



130 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Mat 19, 1883. 


Seeds put in now will soon germinate, and if 
well supplied with warmth and moisture will 
grow apace. 

9613.— Hsemanthusee. —“ A. S. C.” need 
not be alarmed at the leaves of his Haemanthus 
turning yellow, mine always begin to change 
about this time. I would advise him to 
gradually withhold water until the leaves are 
quite gone, then give them a thorough rest till 
the blooms appear, when they may be well 
watered and grown on, taking care not to 
damage the young leaves. I can hardly under¬ 
stand the leaves being so small. I have a plant 
with leaves from 2 feet to 2 feet 6 inches in 
length, and from 6 inches to 9 inches in width, 
and thick in proportion. I would advise “A. S. C.” 
to look to the roots, and, if necessary, repot in 
good loam with some mortar rubbish added, and 
be careful to give good drainage, as the plants 
do not require potting every year. They succeed 
perfectly well in a cool greenhouse.—J. W. L. 

9699. — Growing- Perns. — A northern 
aspect is as good for Ferns as any other, and if 
the walls are not too high, yours is a rather 
favoured position, and if expense is a secondary 
consideration, I should advise having a good 
heating apparatus to begin with. In a house 
heated by hot-water pipes there could be grown 
not only a better class of F eras than could be grown 
in an unheated house, but several of the green¬ 
house Palms, notably the Date Palm (Phoenix 
dactylifera), Latania Borbonica, Corypha aus¬ 
tralis, and several of the Arecas, Chamserops, &c.; 
also Indiarubber plants (Ficus elastica), Grevillea 
robusta, several of the Dractenas, and many other 
useful table plants. The house would, however, be 
too shady to grow flowering plants satisfactorily. 
Even if hardy Ferns only are to be grown, it 
would be well to have heat enough to expel damp 
and stagnant air.—0. P. 

9693.— Fern fronds turning brown.— 

It is impossible to tell the actual cause of the 
Fern fronds turning brown, as it is not stated 
whether the Fern is in a room or greenhouse. 
It may be caused by the Fern being grown 
in a moist, warm greenhouse before it was 
purchased, and then being suddenly changed 
to the dry air of a living room, or it may be 
through changing it from a close greenhouse 
to a very airy one, or from its being kept too 
near the glass in the full sun. It should be 
borne in mind that the fronds of the Adian- 
tum gracilliminm are naturally brown in a young 
state, changing to a light green when full 
grown, but as “Beginner” says it is growing 
all right, there is no harm done beyond the 
loss of a few fronds. This Fern requires 
in spring a night temperature of from 60° 
to 55°, with a rise as the season advances; it 
should be kept 1 feet from the glass, and shaded 
from bright sun. The air of the house in which 
it is grown should be kept moist by damping 
the walks, &c., pretty' frequently, but avoid 
syringing much overhead. ’ Air should be given 
on favourable occasions from the top lights only, 
thus preventing sweeping draughts.—0. P. 

9718.—Treatment of Cacti—These are 
plants that require very careful treatment. They 
should be kept in a temperature not lower than 
46°, and perfectly dry during the winter. To¬ 
wards May the side shoots should be taken off 
and planted about three in a pot, in loam mixed 
with plenty of silver sand ; but before doing so, 
they should be allowed to lie in a sunny place 
to allow of the lower part drying for about three 
days. Before watering them, let them get quite 
dry, as they are plants that are very liable to rot. 
They bloom about June, and some of the species 
are very beautiful.— Holloway. 


9660.—Fuchsia fulgena.—This fine old 
Fuchsia is of an herbaceous habit of growth, 
that is, loses its top growth as a Dahlia does 
in the winter, and the root is assumed to rest. 
The roots are tuberous, and unlike those of nearly 
all other Fuchsias. It is surprising that in a 
greenhouse kept at so low a temperature in the 
winter, the foliage should have kept green so 
long, but possibly the roots pushed growth until 
late last year. It will break again as before 
presently.—A. D. 

9673.- Dracaena leaves going brown. 
—It seems to me to be impossible, in ordinary' 
circumstances, to prevent the leaves of this 
plant, when grown slowly and in a cool at¬ 


mosphere, 
the tips. 


irom -getting more, or 

A VjO**, iC 


more, or less Drown 


i©of its commo 


and recognised features, and one that is con¬ 
stantly imitated in the artificial plants which 
are now to be seen in the shop windows. 
Perhaps a more rapid growth in greater heat 
and a moister atmosphere might prevent It to 
some extent, for I have seen Dracaenas in a warm 
fernery with the brown tips on the leaves 
scarcely perceptible. We have bad a small 
plant in the house for two years. It is kept in 
the Bitting room during the day, and is put out 
into the lobby at night, and it receives careful 
attention, so far as watering and sponging are 
concerned. It has fourten leaves, and all of 
them, except the four uppermost, are brown at 
the tips, the lowest and oldest most so. Of the 
four uppermost, two came out last summer, 
and two the previous year. We have another 
plant which was got from the nursery a few 
weeks ago. Its twenty leaves are green and 
fresh, but they are not all entire, for, with the 
exception of the upper six, the points of the 
whole of them have been mutilated with the 
scissors.—P. R. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

FLOWERS FOR BEES. 

9704.—Bees gather honey from the flowers 
of different plants at different seasons of the 
year, and a succession of plants is required in 
spring, summer and autumn, to supply their 
wants. The suitable flowering plants recom¬ 
mended by bee fanciers are very numerous. 
Amongst those which flower in spring are the 
Crocus, Snowdrop, Primrose, Lily, Daffodil, 
Wallflower, fruit trees and bushes, as well as 
Turnips which have been left in the ground all 
winter, and are being allowed to run to seed. 
In summer there is more choice, but the 
principal favourites are Furze, Broom, Thyme 
(especially the lemon-sented Thyme), Clover, 
Mustard, Mignonette, Sage, Borage, single Roses, 
the Lime tree, Sec. In autumn in some districts 
honey is got chiefly from the heath, but it is 
also collected from Sunflowers, seeding Radishes, 
Parsnips, Parsley and Celery, and a host of other 
plants. Nearly the whole of the members of the 
Cabbage tribe are useful as honey plants when 
allowed to flower. In some parts of the Con¬ 
tinent, where large stocks of bees are kept, 
fields of Buckwheat (Polygonum Fagopyrum) 
are sown, and a succession of crops is kept up 
throughout the season. This annual is too 
tender for most parts of this country, but it is 
grown to some extent in Norfolk and Suffolk, 
where it is called Brank. It comes into bloom 
very soon after it is above the surface of the 
ground, and it continues flowering and seeding 
till it is killed by the frost. Mr. Briggs, a 
Lincolnshire bee farmer, recommends strongly 
Melilotus leucantha, a leguminous plant, nearly 
allied to the Clover, and Lotus or Bird’s-foot 
Trefoil, in fact, its name means the white 
flowered honey Lotus. There are at least three 
species of this plant natives of Britain, M. offi¬ 
cinalis, M. vulgaris or leucantha, and M. arvensis. 
If it is the second of these that Mr. Briggs 
refers to, it is said to be a somewhat rare 
plant, found in sandy' and gravelly places 
near the sea. He says “it should be sown in 
March or the beginning of April, in deep rich 
loamy soil, in drills about 18 inches apart, and 
the plants thinned to 9 inches or 10 inches from 
each other.” It will grow from 6 feet to 8 feet 
in height during the first summer, and from 
10 feet to 12 feet during the second. If some 
plants of it are cut down to the ground when 
about 2 feet in height, they will flower later in 
the summer, and a succession of them may be 
had from June to November. The best and 
purest honey is got when the White Ciover, 
(Trifoliam repens) is in bloom. There is adistrict 
of Galloway in .Scotland noted for its honey, 
which is supposed to be derived, like that of 
Mount Heymettus, from the wild Thyme(Thymus 
Serpyllum). The honey of Narbonne is said to 
be obtained from the wild Rosemary. About 
the month of August it is usual in some places 
to take the skeps to the heather, when they are 
carried to some sheltered hollow on a moorland 
hillside where the ground is covered with the 
late-flowering heaths. They are generally put 
under the charge of a cotter or shepherd, and are 
placed near liis hut, or even in his garden plot, 
but I have come upon them, miles distant, from 
any human habitation, in spots which had been 
selected on account of the abundance of the! 


heather bloom. The heather honey is rich et 
highly flavoured, and of a dark colour. 

It is not worth while for an amateur to both: 
himself much about flowers for his bees, units 
he has a great number of hives and a lup 
piece of ground to cultivate, for all the floven 
that could conveniently be grown in a sea. 
villa garden will not induoe them to feed nam 
home if there are large quantities of even te 
favourite plants not far off. They are belietr 
to prefer the flowers of plants grown en awl 
to those of plants grown singly. P. R. 

THE HOOP PETTICOAT NARCISSI'S. 

(N. BULBOCODIUM.) 

This is one of the choicest of the Daffodils, iso 
is well worthy of a best position in the miisi 
border, ora bed of it forms a striking object it 
May. It grows from 9 inches to 12 inches high, 
and its leaveB are thin and slender. In colic 
its flowers are of the clearest yellow. It doa 
not appear to grow well in stiff soil, but in well 
drained light soil it grows and flowers fretJy 
As a pot plant for a greenhouse it is all that at 



Narcissus Bulbocodium as usually 

be desired, but it must not be forced. The buft 
should be potted about six in a 6-inch pt* 2 
autumn, and the pots should be plimgedus.- 
in a cold frame, and there they should ram 
till April, when, if taken out and plowin' 
light airy greenhouse, they will soon thro*" 
flowers. Mr. Douglas, of Loxford, Bford, to- 
showed some excellent pots full of it st fW 
Kensington. 

Miles’s Spiral Mignonette.— This M : 

nonette is unquestionably one of the best, it 
the very best, of the varieties in cultivation, so 
of great value for pot culture, sending up.*-' 
does, fine spikes of flowers, the odour of *hfc 2 
delicious. The old Reseda odorata, fo git-” 
favourite years ago, is eclipsed not only 1 
Miles's Spiral, but. by Parsons’s and !'■■ ;*■ 
grandiflora and pyramidalis, all of whir-' 
larger and stronger and quite as sweet seer' 
By sowing any of these in the o[«n gwot , ■ 
once, they will flower and seed in time for -- 1 
ing in pots to stand the winter, and cot* 
early for the embellishment of greenhouse 
conservatories, and for affording cut blooms 1 
way to have Mignonette good for either otto 
purposes is to well drain the pots with »'*; ( 
crocks, and scatter among them a good pints; 
soot, which not only keeps out worms, huts' t- 
lates the roots, and causes the plants to be.- - 
deep green in colour, maintaining them he,--- 
and strong. The soil best adapted fargrowiEj-- 
Mignonette is rich fibry loam, which should 
put into the pots very firm, and the seed 
thinly on it, and slightly covered; when up,a-- 
weakly plants should be pulled out, so asto® 
the others as regular as possible, and shout -' 
or six in a 7-inch pot. The most suitable p - 
for Mignonette during summer and 3 ntumn i» “4 
an open sunny spot outdoors; but when ■ -Y 
rains set in it is necessary to have it " ' T 
cover of a cold frame, where the lights os 
tilted, so as to afford it plenty of airandpre 1 
it from drawing. The thing to ** ““ 
ticular about i 3 over-watering, w'bich Migno 
is very impatient of till the pots arei wei ‘ 
with roots, when it will lake more, snd is g 

RBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Mat 19, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


131 



benefited by frequent applications of dear 
liquid manure. During winter, the best situation 
for it is on shelves near the glass, where it can 
hare full light, and a degree of heat ranging 
anywhere between 40° and 50°.—8. 

9694.— Pampas Grass.— Where it is not 
thought of importance that the dead tufts of 
leaves or flags of the Pampas Grass be, for 
tidiness' sake, cut away for the winter, it is best 
to leave them, as presenting protection to the 
crowns, and it is even well—should very hard 
weather set in—to give some additional pro¬ 
tection, in the form of mats or canvas. The 
heads of the plants may be trimmed up in 
spring, before the new growth starts.—A. 

9671.— Covering Tulips.— In advising the 
erection of framework and a covering of thin 
canvas over beds of Tulips, I had in my mind 
the grand display of these beautiful May flowers 
that used to be seen at 
one of ourchief nurseries. 

That bed was very long, 
and, I think, seven rows 
of bulbs in width, all 
being of the choice flo¬ 
rists' kinds, and many so 
delicately and beauti¬ 
fully marked as to need 
some protection from 
night frosts or hot sun¬ 
shine to enable their 
beauties to be seen fully. 

If " J. C." has really fine 
kinds, and grows them 
in a purposely made up 
bed, over which a can¬ 
vas covering can be 
erected, so as to enable 
him and his friends to in¬ 
spect the flowers at will, 
he should protect them 
as advised. If his are 
but fairly good border 
kinds, it is a question 
whether the flowers had 
not better take their 
chance. A span-frame, 
such as Pearson and 
other builders make, 
would be a first-class 
thing to place over a Tul i p 
bed that had been pre¬ 
viously made the size 
of the frame. Single or 
simply lean-to frames are 
not so good for the pur¬ 
pose, and in any case the 
flowers would need some 
shading when the sun 
shone out hotly. Of 
course, glass or frame 
lights might be used with 
advantage if securely 
filed on a sloping frame 
work of wood set tempo¬ 
rarily over the bed, but 
side protection would be 
needed, as otherwise the 
wind would draw be¬ 
neath and domuchharm. 

Frost does Tulips little 
harm, so far as the bulbs 
and leaves are con¬ 
cerned, but white frosts 
may seriously damage 
some of the deeper- 
colonred flowers, and it is 

best to keep off the danger by some simple pro-' 
tective means.— D. 

9707. — Dahlias.— Nothing is easier than to 
keep Dahlia roots through the winter. The plants 
must be cut down to within 6 inches of the ground 
at the end of October, the roots carefully lifted, 
as much as can be of the soil adhering removed 
with a pointed stick, and then the roots laid in a 
dry place with the stem downwards to get dry. 
It is best to store them freo from soil, and in 
some quite dry sand or ashes, the roots being put 
into a shallow box and just covered with the dry 
material. Early in the spring the roots should be 
taken out of the box or boxes, the ashes thrown 
out, and some good soil placed in; the roots 
returned, and more fine soil placed about the roots 
Then if put into gentle warmth the crowns will 
push shoots, which, if taken off singly and care¬ 
fully, and struck ascuttings, will make line plants. 
The old roots, if not so nuWnto warmth,vwill 
break naturally, and then, ‘ ‘ — — 


knife, will each make two or more strong plants. 
—A. 

9584.— Calvary clover.— I grew this five 
or six years ago, and finding it did not look very 
thriving in the greenhouse, I turned it out in a 
south border where it did very well. I do not 
think the representation of the crown of thorns 
is to be found in the leaves, but in the seed-pod, 


manure, and i f there is a tendency to run together, 
some sand must be added. It is also well to 
give ample drainage, so as to enable the water 
to get freely away. The pract ice of Calceolarias 
to droop and die off suddenly is a common one, 
and generally arises from bad soil.—A. D. 

9685.— Bulba in beds —If the soil has 
been well dug and manured prior to the planting 


which, when ripe and opened carefully at the of the bulbs, and it is now fairly soft or light, 

stem, can be unfolded, and has quite the ap- bedding plants will do very well in it if the 

pearance of a crown of thorns.—M. E. T., Devon, surface be stirred a few inches deep without 
9682.— Wlataria not blooming.— It is removing the bulbs. If the soil has becomo 
not so easy to explain why a Wistaria does not hard, and is poor, it will be best to lift the bulbs 

now flower so well as formerly at St. John's uud lay them in elsewhere to ripen off their 


Wood, but the possible reason is that the 
neighbourhood is now becoming so enveloped 
with buildings, that the air is becoming too im¬ 
pure for plants to thrive well. Or it may be that 
the soil has become impregnated with coal gas, 




leafage, and then lightly manure and well fork 
the soil before it is replanted, working it to 
become as fine as possible.—A. D. 

9677.— Polyanthuses and Primroses. 
—These beautiful hardy spring flowers will not 
always accommodate 
themselves to the tastes 

_ of those who like to see 

them in large clumps, 
and as a rule will die 
when they get over big. 
There is an obvious rea¬ 
son for this, and it should 
be apparent to all. It is 
that as the plants in¬ 
crease in size and years 
they get to have literally 
a dense mass of crowns, 
each one wanting to 
throw out roots at its 
base in the spring, and of 
course needing space and 
nutriment. Noneof these 
can be found except for 
the outer crowns,and the 
inner ones get weakly 
and die, hence the de¬ 
cay of many plants. Then 
root-rot is a common evil, 
which comes from rot or 
decay getting into the 
long Carrot-like stem in 
the soil, which always 
forms in old plants, and 
once this appears the 
plant is doomed, except 
when it is lifted, the 
crowns taken off just be¬ 
neath the newest roots, 
and then replanted in 
good soil. ThisBhouldbe 
done in the spring, and 
these young crowns soon 
makegood robust plants. 
As a rule, the spring is 
the best time to lift and 
divide old plants in stiff 
soils, but in light dry 
soils the autumn is the 
best time. Sifted potting 
soil placed round the 
plants is usually good, 
as furnishing food for the 
new roots seeking for it 
and unable to find it in 
the surrounding soil. We 
strongly advise growing 
seeds of both Primroses 
and Polyanthuses each 
year, to ensure a regular 
supply of strong young 
plants and a charming 
display of flowers.—A. D 

and that is injuring the roots. We must, in re-[ 9678.— Geraniums not’ blooming — It 

plying, ask another question, and that is, do is most probable that plants which did not bloom 
Wistarias and Lilacs, as a rule, still bloom freely after being planted out last year were from 
in the locality, as if such is the case it is evident spring cuttings, and were put out in soil that 
that these particular ones are suffering from was loo rich. So very much depends also upon 
strictly local injury, that is either of the earth Iho season, as heat and drought is so much more 
or the air. Hard cutting back, and thus causing conducive to bloom than is a cool, wet time. To 
a fresh start, is often productive of good trees avoid a similar mishap this year, put out the old 
and shrubs.—D. | plants, first taking off the tops to make cuttings 

9690.— Mignonette failing.— The cause of for »«PPlJ»“& blooming plants in pots in the 
failure of Mignonette in this case must be found au ^ umn .* or plants, if not to hand, that were 
in the soil, which either contains some insect | roo f®d * n the autumn and have been in single 
that is destructive, or else the soil is sour and P 0 ^ 8 *he winter. Also do not add manure to 
untit. It is not stated whether the plants are in *he beds, but be content to work them deep and 
pots or in the open ground, but in either case it ma ke the soil loose and light to enable the plants 


The Hcop Petticoat Narcissus (N. liulV'coillum.) Natural ai*o. 


is most likely the soil is bail, especially if in jots, 
as there, after long remaining, it gets hard, clung, 
sour, and altogether untit to sustain plant life. 
Mignonette is rather choice in its soil. It 
specially prefers a good light and turfy loam, 
with a fair proportion mixed in cf well rotted 


to make quick root.—D. 


Cottage building.— In answer to “ P.A.O., 
Sussex,” Ido not think that he will be able to 
get the cottage he wishes built for less than 
£200, at all events I could not do so here. My 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 














GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Mat 19, 18fc3 


builder's contracts are £500 for each pair of I find no better plan of getting rid of it than their land was well manured with farmyard or 
cottages (as the majority of them will be built cutting a sack in halves, and thickly tarring it straw manure. From my own experience of peat 
in pairs), and the single ones will cost, I dare with gas tar. Two men, one at each piece of Moss as a manure, I am so thoroughly satisfied 
say, £300 a piece ; but I may mention that I am sack, draw- it carefully under the bushes; then as to its superiority over straw, that I have used 
having various details introduced into their by tapping them the caterpillars fall on to the nothing else this year for my garden. I hope 
construction which are probably not essential tarred sack, and are dead in an instant. About Mr. Groom will let us know the result of his 
in a gate-lodge, such as chimney comers with twice going over the bushes in this way clears trial, which 1 feel confident will bear out all I 
comfortable seats, glazed tiles for throwing eut them. Growers will find this plan much cheaper have said in its favour.—II. C. 

the heat from the fire-place, some good dressers and better than either hand-picking or dressing 9670 . _Heating a greenhouse.— I feel 

and cupboards, quarried floors and quarries for tbe bushes with poisonous powders.—G. W., interested ; n this query, from the fact that 1 
some height round the walls, which may always Sussex. have just put up a Messenger’s amateurs’ slow 

be washed clean, and which I prefer to a 9703.— Grub3 on fruit trees —Grubs on combustion boiler, with an iron smoke line or 
common paper smeared by children’s fingers, orchard trees and Gooseberry and Currant bushes funnel, which is carried up outside the house. 1 
The interior of the cottages is also more or will sometimes be sufficiently numerous to spoil fj m ) that a great deal of the heat goes up tbe 
less ornamental, and ornament of any kind is a crop ; but if a bonfire be made with dry sticks funnel, and, beyond what is required to create a 
generally expensive. If “ 1’. A. G.” will give and weeds on the windward side of the orchard, p rG p er draught, it is of course lost. “A. I”s* 
me bis address I will send him a sketch of the so that the smoke may blow among the trees, arrangement seems to be both ingenious and 
first pair of cottages, showing the interior you will destroy thousands, for the grubs have economical, and much heat is utilized that 
arrangements, measurements, Arc., if he thinks such an objection to smoke, that very little of it might otherwise have been carried outside : but 
it likely to be of any use to him, or shall be makes them roll themselves up and fall off ; built flues inside a house where there is much 
happy to give him any farther information I can. they must bo swept up afterwards.— Celer et wood near them are dangerous at all times, 
—M. A., Cantab. Ar Dax. whether they are built of common or fireclay 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


ey must be swept up afterwards.— Celer ET wood near them are dangerous at all times, 
JDax. whether they are built of common or fireclay 

bricks or tiles. They may crack or separate at 
ANSWERS TO QUERIES. the joints, and the fi(e may find its way to the 

- wood-work below without being seen, and after 

(miscellaneous.) repeated scorchings it may kindle into a flame. 

9G60 — Sewage manure.-There are few In “ A. P’s” case the danger is lessened in con- 
ings as to the assumed value of which more sequence of the distance of the greenhouse from 
__„;i • w tlie washing-house boiler. A flue made of iron 


Euonymuses as town bushes- D lank, 1 n "A P’s^Mse the danger is lessened incon- 

“P. It.” (pace 110') enquires what kinds of 9G60.— Sewage manure.— There are few In A - 1 « e the clanger is les^enea in an 

Euonymuses aregrown as town bushes, evidently things as to the assumed value of which more ° A flifc^madT of iron 

under the impression that the deciduous Euony- erroneous notions prevail than with reference to . ^ h n m c W pnr nnrl 

mus latifolius, that bears such pretty berries, is bouse sewage. The excessive washing and dec- ? 

one of them, but I have not yet met with it dorising to which the solids are subjected by tiles ¥he ^t born 

about here: but the evergreen varieties of Euony- an enormously ^proportioned quantity of " c h rSue would not verTsffiUbU to pl^ 
mus japonicus are grown by the thousand in the water, reduces the actual mammal properties of . : ^ rmin ,i nr tbroneb 

form of hedges, clumps, as single specimens on the solid some 60 per cent., so that great allow- bn* theJoe^could be earned ound^or through 
grass and as pot plants; window boxes are filled -cehaslo be n»d. fcr = when allied o t he ^use^ ms.de of ^ 

TlTxuria e “o' tTef -s,™ < prop i o dl at^on* and agreeable heat as hot water pipes. It migta. 


coasto also*the many variegated-leaved varieties third only of the the entire bulk. An over- perhaps, help to economise the heat if the plan 
are in erreat favour, notably Euonymus iaponicus whelming disproportion of water in manure thus 


are in great favour, notably Euonymus japonicus whelming disproportion 


boilers were applied to greenhouse boilers, and 


variegatus E i Due de Aniou E i olecantis- applied to soil will as often do harm as good, filers were appnea to greennouse oouers, ana 
siW E i. oratuVaurcur E b marrinatus Ac. *nd therefore it is always advisable to arrange the smoke flue earned through the house inside 
also the climbing E radicans that makes a 80 that mu °h of the water is filtered away before water pipes. I am not aware of any att eaipt 

capital edgffiV for beds or covering f“ walls the residuum is distributed as manure. To effect having been made to carry out such a plan, and 
Umsebeautibil shrubs ar^always'^n gooiTcon- this. ,he best method is to form a bog in some 
dition, being evergreen, but not berrv-bearing, remote part of the garden for any refuse soil, 

the variety alluded to by “ I’. R,” being quite ashes, or other matter that may be at disposal, 8675.—Ants in gardens.—Ants are very 
distinct. The varieties enumerated above have and, failing such, then use the surface soil of hard to effectually clear out of a place, and 
all the good and none of the objectionable pro- the garden, and into this bog empty the therefore it is very desirable in all attempts to 
perties alluded to. The only drawback to tbe contents of the cesspool, Btrewing over the be rid of them to persist in the remedies applied, 
more general culture of Euonymus japonicus is surface a good body of ashes or soil, and When found away from the roots and stems of 
that it is not. hardy enough for northern dis- over that some disinfectant. The soil will soon plants, the best and surest remedy of all is to 
tricts, but where it thrivcs.'especially by the sea absorb all ammonia and the liquid parts, and flood them out, or scald them in with boilirg 
coast, it is sure to give satisfaction when once * n n f ew vveeks the entire body may be turned up water. There are dozens of specifics other than 
tried. I may mention that thousands of young together, some more disinfectant being thrown those I have already given in Gardening, which 
plants of the tenderest variegated varieties are over it to kill the smell, if any. In a few more have generally been found to answer. If one part 
annually sent from this locality to be used as weeks the bulk may be spread over the ground of calomel be carefully incorporated with leu of 
pot plants for halls, balconies, corridors, Ac., as and dug in, and in such form it is useful manure, finely-powdered loaf sugar, and placed in little 
they keep healthy for a length of time in a sub- 1 ° a " cases operations of this offensive kind heaps near the nests and runs, the ants will eat 
dued light and in positions that would be fatal should be done in the winter, and in dry weather, it and die. When they first get about strongly 
to many far less ornamental plants.— James One other way of disposing of the sewage is to in spring is the best time to apply these agents 
GROOM, Gosport. °P en a number of trenches in the garden, es- for their destruction ; or lay a quantity of par- 

071^ 1 T 7 ima i*i AAm pecially where it may be proposed to sow Pea9 tially pickled boiled bones in the haunts of the 

onnnaii^ Uf Uo Wuoi, or Runner Reans or put out winter plants, ants, and they will quickly be covered with them. 

/r ,Y’ ‘ ( ‘ . , . Y' A * . run the sewage into these trenches, and then As soon as this occurs throw the bones into hot 

Elm (Ulmus montana) is the freest seeder, in with the % pil thrown out . The bog plan is, water, and before laying them down again, let 

fact Produces seed in enormous quantities. This the best ._ A . F all supertlous moisture drain off ; this is a cheap 

should be put dry into bags in June and kept remedy, and, if persisted in, is effectual. Fresh 

over till the following spring and then sown. 9o‘J7.—Feat MOSS. —i am very much sur- _„„ ’ ,• 

Ulmus campestris (the English Elm) is usually prised at “G. F. W.” condemning peat Moss rJHi 

worked on the Wych Elm or increased by suckers both as a manure and as bedding for horses. I 1 ^ m«nv 1 fnl 

and layers If seed of the kind is obtainable it must say my experience of peat Moss is very v-ill aJso destroy a great many. The modes for 

should he sown in spring.—A. different from bis, as I find that as bedding for destroying wireworms are numerous on papier, 

—— Tlie English Elm (Ulmus campestris) is n horses it is decidedly superior to straw in point l, “ t 1D practice they are few. Amongst plants, 

native of the middle and south of Europe, and the 0 £ cleanliness, from the fact that it absorbs "’here salt and other deterrents cannot be 

west of Asia and Barbary. It does not ripen its seeds f rnr ,; et ., rp t i lu , keenim? the horse applied, Carrots stuck inlo the ground, or slices 

in this country, but in the south of England it Is ever > drop ot moisture, tnus keeping tne Horse j* Potato served ir like manner and 

propagated by layers and suckers. The finest trees are dry and comfortable at all times at a very great ot l or J - en( -d in like manner, an 

grown from the layers.—P. R. deal less cost and trouble than straw, although examined on alternate days, will effect a 

-Tht English Mm (Ulmus campestris) bears its T Pops Tin t i nn i- n ; rfl w P n clearance if the traps are sufficiently numerous. 

in May - “ox brfdUwi.h°Sat^os“ which ht not Where salt cannot be used, ground linseed cake 

t, been changed for nearly two months, and it is 60wa broadcast over the crops is very useful, 

____ quite dry and comfortable yet. Colliery pro- M **“> worms greedily eat it and burst, but it is 

FRUIT. prietors in this district have begun to use it in nluc l t0 ° expensive for general use.—C eeer et 

* their stables in the mine, and since doing so the Audax. 

Summer pruning 1 pyramid fruit tables have become nice and dry, whereas -If “A. H.” takes a stick about 2 ft. long on 

trees—In pruning pyramid fruit trees, the before they were very damp. Moreover, it is a a sunny day, and also a good sized pepperbox 
leaders should be left, unshortened till the f act that some of the ponies that would not lie full of black pepper, and watches the ants for a 
annual growth is about finished, unless the trees ( j own before have lain down regularly since they short time, she will soon see where their ne-st. is. 
are young, and it is desired to produce lateral ot p eat jjoss bedding. As a manure, it is un- Then push the stick in and stir them up well, 
shoots to fill up anywhere. About the middle doubtedly more valuable than straw. A gentle- and give them plenty of the pepper, which will 
of June, ism the majority of seasons, the time to ma n of my acquaintance being doubtful of this, insult their dignity to that degree, that they 
begin, commencing first with those trees that bad ^ ana iy 8e d and tested as a manure in com- will very soon leave her border in disgust. Slugs 
are making the strongest wood, and shortening p ar i 80n -with straw, with the result that the and snails can be disposed of by placing some 
back all shoots that are not required for filling nn tritive properties of the Moss were very much quicklime between the plants of an evening, or 
up the framework of the tree to four leaves* The gj ea t er than those of the straw. This fact was putting some fine quicklime in a muslin bag, and 
spurs thus left will require shortening when the borne out by a man here planting Potatoes in dusting it over the border; or another remedy is, 
leaves fall, cutting to a bud if possible. E. soil manured with peat Moss with most as- get some bran and soak it in vinegar, and place 
The Gooseberry caterpillar has made tonishing success, his neighbours in exactly the it on tiles or bits of slate about the border.— 

Us appearance in tbund.Utrict in great numbers, same soil not doing nearly so well* although ,T. Camts. 


FRUIT. 


h^nsHstrict in grcBt n 

Go gie 


,t numbers. I same soil not doing nearly so well* although • J. CAMJ5, Cl^rAon, 


; on tiles or bits of slate about the border.— 


lBANA-< 


Mat 19, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


133 


%S3.— Bishop weed. —“ Douglas ” asks, 
lS there any mode of getting rid of Bishop weed ? 
I can speak from experience : there is none short 
>f removing every plant of every kind, clearing 
heir roots of every fibre of the weed, and burning 
jvery atom. Such a thing can of course only be 
lone where the plant has not been allowed to 
spread to the extent named by “ Douglas.” No 
op-dressing will destroy it without destroying 
all the other plants growing near it. The fact 
•hat a single leaf appearing above ground 
ndicates about a yard of creeping root below 
will show how little use top-dressing is. It may 
oe kept down by cutting off every leaf as soon 
is visible, but even that will not kill it, as I 
inow from experience.—A. B. T., East. Anglia. 

9717.— Guano for Rose trees —Guano 
should not be substituted for the coating of fat 
table manure which is placed over the roots of 
Rose trees in winter, and pricked or hoed in when 
:he trees are pruned. It forms a very good 
.timulant in summer. A heaped tablespoonful 
x> a pail of water is a safe quantity to give about 
>nce a fortnight. A good way of using guano 
s to remove 3 inches of soil and then give a 
jood sprinkling of the manure, replacing the 
oil over it. This suits both the genuine guano 
.nd ammonia-fixed; the former only should be 
tsed as liquid manure.—J. D. 

9692. — Beetles in greenhouse. — 1. 

’lace a few lumps of unslaked lime where they 
requent. 2. Set a dish or trap containing a 
ittle beer or syrup at the bottom, and place a 
ew sticks slanting against its sides, so as to form 
sort of gangway for the beetles to climb up by, 
.•hen they will go headlong into the bait set 
or them. 3. Mix equal weights of red lead, sugar, 
nd flour, and place it nightly near their haunts, 
'his mixture, made into sheets, forms the beetle 
/afers sold at the oil shops.—C eler et Audax. 
9709.— Grass as manure.- After the 
rass is cut keep it as clean as possible, and mix 
dth it about 10 per cent, of linseed cake, then 
ut it through a kind of machine called a milk- 
lg cow, afterwards mixing with it a little short 
traw or other like material, and then “ P. Y. M.” 
/ill have one of the best, manures it is possible 
d obtain.— Crown Bob. 

0712.—Ants In Fernery.—If “ Novice ” will but 
nraevorc with black pepper, he will soon rid his Fernery 
f ants, for I find they have a strong objection to it.— 
. Cine, Clevedon. 

-For remedies I will refer “ Novice ’ to my reply 

> No. 9675, as well as to previous ones.—C eler kt 

l*l) AX. 


Mushroom spawn.— Cestrian —We cannot com- 
n.hecd the meaning of your question. Kindly make 
clearer. 

House slops as manure.— A Constant Reader. 
-several articles on this subject kave quite recently 
ppwued in gardening. 

Asparagus competition.— H. F.— The competi- 
Ion will this year be held in London. The date and 
•lace will be announced shortly. 

Cutter for Gross verges—If. IF. C .—The verge 
utter, advertised by Mr. Ridgways, in Gardening, 
■lay 12, Is the beat and cheapest we know of. 

F. 5.—The quantity of piping named would, we should 
hlnk, be ample. You must regulate the fire according 
he weather, or the house will certainly get too hot. 

’be pipes would be best under the stages.- Sea Bream. 

-You will do quite right to fill up the insterstices with 
►eat and sand. The plant can easily be increased by 

livirion of the roots.- G P .—Write to Mr. Ware, 

lale Farm Nurseries, Tottenham, for his bulb catalogue, 
•r to Messrs. Barr & Sons, 12. King Street, Covent 

harden.- M. E. Edwards .—Try Carter «fc Co., High 

lolhorn, London.- P. A.—From Mr. W. Thomson, 

l avern Street, Ipswich. 

S. IT.— Insufficient ventilation will always breed fly on 
'each trees. It is had practice to fumigate trees when in 
-•loom, the flower is sure to come off, and often without 

icttlug fruit.- A. T. P —“Cottage Gardening.” by 

B. Hobday, contains a chapter on Vines, which will pro¬ 
bably answer your purpose. It is published by Crosby, 
Lockwood and Co. 

Namee of plants.— Midiothian .—Helichrysuin ori- 

-nUle.-IF.T.—Rhynchocpermum jasminoldeB.- Ash- 

‘tad.—I, Pulmonia mollis; 2, Orobus cyaneus ; 3, Del- 

phinlimi variety, similar to one called Belladonna.-If. 

B — No enclosure.- Gexoenith .—The Jonquil (Narcissus 

Jonquil la) is wholly yellow.- Crown Bob.—l, Saxifraga 

aespitoia; 2, Sednm reflexum- Jf. M. B.— Arabia 

albida.- Carnation .— Tanacetum vulgare crispum 

(criip-leaved Tansy)- R. F. L.— Tradescantia ropens. 

— Vesuvius.— Cannot name without Beeing better 

ifedmens with leaves.- J. S. E .— Send frond 

* ith seeds (spores at the back of it).- H. R. J. 

-hio'ma cricoldes, Pulmonaria saeeharata (blue). 

— Anon.— 1. Saxifraga snrmentosa; 2, Oxalis Ace 

l«*Ila (Clover-looking sprig).- II. G. — Narcissus 

bo raparahilia var -- Gewenith. 1, Saxifraga crassi 

“lia; 2, Lyaimachia Nummulnria (Creeping Jenny), 

— Bicbner .—CEnothera fmticoaa.-Jf. R.— 1, Helle- 

Wux fuetldua; 2, rulmouaria inollla; 4, Louicera tatu* 

Geranium phoeum.- J. H. A.—1, Saxifraga 

'••'"vlfolia; i, Tritifiaria Meleagri^87*JraMi wBjidmT 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents.—A U communica¬ 
tions for insertion should be clearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
and address of the sender is required , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the auery 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece qf paper. Owing to the necessity of 
GARDENING going to press a considerable time before the 
day of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the wi ck they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

9750. —BeDnets In a lawn.— I cannot exerminate 
the Bennets in my lawn. I have tried pulling them up 
by the roots, but moat of them break off, and also a drop 
of Bulphuric acid in the centre of each plant has been 
tried, but they flourish now as much as ever. One 1 
pulled up had a root 14 inches in length. Will someone 
kindly tell me a means of getting rid of these weeds? I 
have heard that a dressing of lime is an improver of 
lawns ; if of any use, how and when should it be applied? 
I may add there are many other sorts of weeds as well as 
Bennets. The lawn was laid about ten years ago on 
ashes and chalk.—J. H. G. 

9751. —Vine not breaking into growth.— I 
have a Muscat of Alexandria Vine which has been planted 
perhaps ten years, in a border 5 feet wide; the roots 
appear to have run across the border and down the side 
to the bottom. As we had no fruit from it, we lifted it in 
October, replantiug it at once, laying the roots in care¬ 
fully in the usual way, but though we have kept a good 
heat since the middle of February and syringed regularly, 
if has not yet started into growth. The roots seem quite 
fresh. Can anyone assign a cause for this delay in 
breaking, is it an unusual thing ? The border is in good 
condition.—N. R. 

9752. —Rosebuds falling off— I planted some Mard- 
ehal Kiel Roses about two years ago, some inside and 
some outside. Those planted inside made some very long 
healthy growths last year, but did not bloom ; this year 
they have made small, thin growth, and still no bloom. 
A Gloire de Dijon growing in the same house, under 
exactly the same treatment, has produced hundreds of 
blooms. Those that were planted outside produced buds 
almost at every' point, grew to the Bize of marbles, 
and then both buds ana leaves dropped off. I may state 
that we live near to a large manufacturing town.—J. L. 

9753. —To grow wild Strawberries. — I am 
anxious to grow wild Strawberries (such ns one sees in 
the Tyrol sold by the peasants) in the copses and woods 
surrounding my house in Berks. Soil, mixture of chalk, 
gravel, and leaf-mould. What kinds should 1 try, and what 
treatment would they require? Would Strawberry 
plants which have been forced, or runners taken from the 
garden varieties, grow well wild, or would it be best to 
procure special varieties of the Wood Strawberry?— 
E. C. H. 

9754. — Pansies —I shall be glad if someone will tell 
me to what class the following Pansies belong: Marian Tay¬ 
lor,Gaiety,Crcesus.Didon,Emblem,Mrs. Langtry, Mrs. Rain- 
ford. Alice, La Lachiel, Alexander McLennoxf?), Aspaire, 
Emily Lyle, Acajon, Sarah, Triomphe, Mr. J. Whitton. 
1 think Mrs. Turner is a bedding Pansy, and White Swan 
and Black Swan Violas. If I am wrong, I shall be glad 
to be corrected.—K. E. G. 

9755. —Starlings and Cherry trees. — In the 
garden of a house I have lately occupied, among other 
fruit trees is a large Big&rreau Cherry, and starlings which 
build in the vicinity devour an immense quantity of the 
fruit when Just ripening. Can any reader suggest any 
means of scaring the birds away, or trapping them? The 
tree is full of bloom, and bids fair to have a large crop of 
fruit.—J amie. 

9756. —Treatment of cold, vinery.—Win some 
reader kindly give me a few hints on the above ? I 
syringe the Vines and damp the floors on warm days, 
and make a little lire on cold, frosty nights. I have 
eighty dozen of bedding plants in the vinery. Is it right 
to syringe and damp the floors, and ventilate according 
to weather? The young Vine shoots are about 14 inches 
long.—S. W. 

9757 —Thinning annuals.—I am aware most ama¬ 
teur gardeners spoil their annuals by allowing them to 
grow too thickly. Will someone kindly give mo an idea 
to what extent various kinds ought to be thinned? I am 
especially anxious to know how I ought to treat Poppies, 
both the large Carnation-flowered Poppy and the French 
Poppy. How far apart in each direction ought the plants 
to be left?—R. B. D. 

6758.—Brugmansia purpurea.—I got two plants 
of Brugmansia purpurea last summer about fl inches 
high. They were kept all winter in a cool house in 
4J-inch pots. They are now about 15 inches high. 1 have 
repotted them lately in 6-Inch pots, but they are not 
growing satisfactorily. What is the proper soil and 
treatment for them.—S cotia. 

9759 . _GJ.old Mohur tree.—I have raised some seed- 
lings of the tree known in India as the Gold Mohur tree, 
a Bpecies, I believe, of AcAcia, with orange red flowers. 
Can anyone tell me how to treat them, and wliether they 
will thrive and have a chance of blooming in an ordinary 
greenhouse moderately heated? They are at present in a 
close hotbed.—A. 8. 

9760. —Seedling Fig trees.—I raised a Fig tree 
two and a half years asro from seed, and have it growing 
in a vinery. It was shifted at the beginning of February 
into a 6-inch pot, which it has already filled with strong, 
healthy roots; the principal stem is from 9 inches to 12 
inches high. What course ought I to pursue to get it to 
fruit?—NEOPHYTE. 

9761. —Cocoanut fibre and Pansies.—Is Cocoa- 
nut fibre refuse a good material to place round choice 
Pansies in n bed ? Will it aid or hinder the rooting of 
shoots ? If good, should the refuse be removed when sur- 
faco dressing the beds, or should it be incorporated with 
the dressing?—R. E. G. 

9762. —Abyssinian pumps.—I shall be obliged to 
anyone who, having tried an Abyssinian pump, will give 
information as to the cost and effectiveness. The heaviest 


item of expense is said to be the purchase of the driver 
needed to insert the pump. Could this be hired ? 
Water can be found at a depth of 6 feet only.—T. H. M. 

9763. —Churchyard gardening.—I am desirous of 
beautifying a city churchyard. There is a strip of ground 
to the north-west, the Boil is heavy, and I have added 
river sand to it. What would be best to plant in it, 
cither annual or perennial ? J am in dose proximity to 
the shambles and one or two sweeps.— Warden. 

9764. —Flowers for market. — Would someone 
kindly tell me the most profitable hardy plants to grow 
to supply cut flowers in quantity for market? How 
would Daffodils, Forget-me-nots, Jonquils, and Polyan¬ 
thuses do? About what price do they fetch wholesale? 
—North Cotswold. 

9765 —Planta for show.—I wish to grow a Tetunia, 
a Fuchsia, a pot of Musk, a pot of Lobelia, and a few 
British Ferns, for an exhibition to be held at the end 
of July. I have got the plants, which are a good size 
now ; how am I to manage them to have them in bloom 
at the proper time ?—One Who Wants to Know. 

9760.—Grass dying.—In my garden I have a bank 
covered with turf. The bank is fresh turved every year, 
as the Grass, after taking root each summer, dies, leaving 
the blades like straw, which rots ; the bank faces the 
south. CaH anyone explain this ?—Cestrian. 

9767.—Pear trees not bearing.—I have severa 
Plum and Pear trees which have been planted six years ; 
they look healthy, but never fruit. Soil, old pasture with 
clay subsoil. W'hat shall I do to them? They are all 
wall trees, of good height and appearance.—S ea Bream. 

97G8.— Palms and Oranges from seed.— Can 
any reader tell me the best way to grow Date Palms from 
the stones and Orange trees from pips, the best time to 
begin, how to keep them in winter, and if the leaves fall 
at that season? Will they bear fruit?—C estrian. 

9769. —Lilium auratum, longiflorum, and 
speciosum.—What is the best treatment for these 
Lilies? Thty are now showing above ground ; will liquid 
manure be good for them, if so, how often should it be 
given ?— A Constant Beat eh. 

9770. —Vines in greenhouses.—I should be glad 
to have some practical information oil the treatment of 
Vines in a greenhouse where flowers and Ferns are also 
grown. The Vines are healthy and laden with fruit. 

9771. —Eradicating weeds.—Advice as to the best 
method of eradicating Dandelions, Bishop Weed, Plan¬ 
tains, etc., from a lawn, without actually digging and re¬ 
sowing, would oblige—E. W. C. 

9772. —Paint for greenhouse.— What cclour 
should I paint outside woodwork of a greenhouse built of 
white brick, other than white, which looks cold and 
soon gets dirty.—E. W. C. 

9773. —Melons in frame®.—Will someone instruct 
me how to grow Melons? I have a fine, healthy plant in 
a lr&me with Cucumber plants, but am quite ignorant as 
to how it should be treated.—J. D. M. 

9774. —Gas coke.—Are the fumes of gas coke as In¬ 
jurious as those of wood charcoal, and is there the same 
danger of suffocation in close rooms?—W. S. 

9775. —Spireeas for forcing.—How should these be 
treated to ensure good blooms and growth when forced ? 
—T. C. 

9776. —Dendrobium nobile.—Will someone tell 
me generally how to treat this Orchid ? It has just done 
blooming. —E. W. 

9777. —Box edgings.—When is the best time to 
plant Box edgings, and the best time for trimming them 
in after years ? —Amateur. 

9778. —Strawberries for forcing. — will some 
reader tell me the names of the three best Strawberries 
for forcing in February and March ?—Young Amateur. 

9779. —Preserving Rose leaves — As the season 
for Roses will soon be here, I should like to know of a 
recipe for preserving them for their scent ?—B. H. 

9780. -Budding Plums.—Would anyone give me a 
few hints on budding Plum trees?—A nxious. 


POULTRY. 


Wild ducks. —“C. A. J.” seems to labour 
under the delusion that wild ducks can be 
treated like tame ducks, whereas they are true 
wild fowl in every sense of the word. I kept 
them for several years, and found that they did 
best left entirely to themselves, though they 
became so far tamed as to come to feed with the 
other poultry. The wild duck makes her nest, 
lays a certain number of eggs, varying from nine 
to fifteen, and then begins to sit at once. She 
sits for about twenty-six days, and as soon as 
hatched she takes her yonng to the water, and 
very pretty they look swimming about like little 
balls of brown fluff. Any attempt at interfering 
with the nest or eggs causes her to desert at 
onco; nor does putting her under a coop with 
her young brood answer at all. The duck always 
covers over her nest carefully with dry leaves 
etc., ere leaving it, to prevent its being discovered, 
and takes a circuitous path to and fro in order 
to avoid being watched. I may add that one 
duck I had built for several years upon the top 
of the Ivy covered porch of an uninhabited 
cottage, nor could anyone ever find out how she 
got her young ones down. Wild ducks some¬ 
times rear two broods in the year, and the first 
Is generally hatched in May. When disturbed 
on the nest, they emit a noise like the hissing of 




134 GARDENING ILLUSTRATED [Mat 19. 1883, 


the snake—so like, that it has sometimes quite 
startled me when coming on the nest by chance, 
and they will fly fiercely at anyone who dares to 
meddle with nest or brood. I must add that 
the wild drake is very often viciously inclined 
towards his offspring, and will kill them if not 
prevented, for which reason it is necessary to 
shut up the drake at the hatching season. In a 
wild state the duck often secludes herself with 
her brood till they have attained a fair size, and 
I found mine often retreated to some neighbour¬ 
ing pond if the drakes were not confined till 
their broods were able to protect themselves.— 
East Anglia 

Poultry for show.— T. fl.-We would 
recommend you to keep either Brahmas or 
Hondans in your run. Your success in the show 
pen will depend very much on your judgment 
in buying stock, which must not only be of the 
very best strain, but the birds must also be well 
mated. It is a well-known fact that two birds 
which have obtained honours at a show seldom, 
when mated, produce anything worth showing. 
We would advise yon, before commencing, to 
buy Wright’s “ Poultry Book,” published by 
Cassell, at 31s. 6d. (we believe that is the price), 
as it is impossible in these columns to give full 
directions as to the breeding of prize birds, and 
we warn you against too sanguine hopes of 
success for a season or two, until you get 
thoroughly acquainted with the various points of 
the breed you select, and the best way to mate 
different specimens in order to produce bir -.a fit 
for the show pen. Be sure, at the commence¬ 
ment, to buy good birds, as inferior ones means 
only time and money thrown away.— Andalu¬ 
sian. 

Liver disease.— C. CMnery. —Undoubtedly 
your birds are suffering from liver disease, 
brought about by too high feeding. Avoid all 
stimulating or heating kinds of food. Boiled 
oatmeal is very good, also soaked crusts of bread. 
You will do well to give a slight purge to the 
whole flock. We generally recommend one 
grain of calomel per bird every other day for a 
week or ten days, mixed in the soft food. Lessen 
the quantity of food given at each meal, and for 
a time do not give them quite as much as they 
will eat, in fact a few days with only ju6t enough 
to keep them alive would be beneficial and 
allow the digestive organs time to recoup their 
strength. See also that the drinking water is 
changed regularly every day, and after the course 
of medicine has been gone through, add some 
sulphate of iron to it, which will give them 
strength and stamina. We hope you are not 
overcrowding your run.— Andalusian. 

Water for ducks.—I have a fowls' yard 6 feet 
by 6 feet, in which I have nine ducks; which would 
be the beBt way to provide them with water to swim in, 
Instead ef a pan which I have hitherto used ?—G. \V. 


BEES. 

SEASONABLE NOTES. 

There is doubtless sufficient encouragement to 
induce many persons to engage in bee culture, 
for if properly managed it is attended with very 
considerable advantage, much more indeed than 
may be generally supposed. There is plenty of 
room for more bees in this country than are kept; 
much of the honey contained in the flowers of 
the field being left ungathered. It is not the 
rarest and most beautiful flowers which afford 
honey, but those which abound in the open 
fields; White Clover, Trefoil, Heath, Beans, 
Vetches, Wild Thyme, Borage, Furze, Broom, 
Bramble, yield a rich supply, as do also the 
blossoms of the Apple, Pear, Cherry, White Thorn 
and Lime. The trouble of managing bees com¬ 
pared with the pleasure their study affords and 
the profit to be derived from them is nothing. 
The cost of food is scarcely anything, and the 
return may be considered clear gain. This is the 
best time in the year to commence bee keeping, 
swarms will now be obtainable, many bee keepers 
having swarms for disposal at this season. One 
gre3t drawback to many persons who would 
otherwise gladly become bee keepers, is the risk 
of being stung, and so they lose the pleasure of 
entering upon a most interesting and profitable 
occupation. Although it is morally impossible 
for even the most skilled apiarian to be quite 
exempt froman occasional sting, still the chances 
of being stung may be greatly reduced by always 
taking the precaution of having the face and 
hands protecterLby, 

Digitized t , GOC'gle 


Bee veil and gloveb when amongst the 
bees; and being well armed against stings in¬ 
sures that coolness and confidence which are Bach 
essential qualifications in a successful bee master, 
but the beginner will soon learn to do without 
the gloves, as they are much in the way of 
delicate manipulation, and after a time even the 
use of the veil will be dispensed with, as con¬ 
fidence and coolness take the place of timidity; 
and there is a happy consolation from the fact 
that the oftener one gets Btung the less is the 
effect produced thereby, and that after a time 
neither swelling or irritation will ensue. A veil 
to protect the face and neck may be made of 
coarse net, 3 feet by U feet, made into a bottom¬ 
less bag; a hem is added round the top and a 
piece of elastic pat in, to fit round the hat, the 
rim of which keeps the veil from the face, the 
lower part being tucked in under the coat collar. 
But a better kind of veil can be purchased, made 
of finely woven wire in lieu of net, which can¬ 
not be blown against the face by the wind, and 
it does not hinder the sight or confine the breath. 
And again, bees can be subdued by 

Fumigation with the smoke of lighted touch 
wood, brown paper, old fnstian or corduroy. 
Either of these are used in a handy little affair 
called a smoker, which consists of a tin tnbe 
with bellows attached, by the use of which the 
smoke can be puffed into any part of the hive 
desired. It will burn for hours if fed with any of 
the fuel above mentioned, and is a valuable 
attendant upon the bee-keeper in bringing his 
bees into subjection. Then it should be 
remembered that bees will seldom sting if filled 
with sweets, and that the effect of smoking 
them is to make them immediately gorge them¬ 
selves with honey. When the qnilt is removed 
after smoking, the bees are seen with their heads 
inserted in the combs filling themselves with 
honey ; this is just what they do when about to 
swarm, and this is the reason swarming bees 
seldom sting, and so if these precautions are 
used, one need have little fear of being stung; 
and after all gentleness is the great secret. The 
hands may be covered with bees when manipu¬ 
lating in a gentle deliberate manner, and no 
signs of stinging appear, but should the hands 
be suddenly removed, the probability is they 
will immediately be pierced with many stings. 
It is well also to remember that nothing is more 
offensive or more irritating to bees than the 
human breath, therefore breathing upon them 
must at all times be carefully avoided. 

Cure for stings. —There is said to be over 
two hundred specifics for bee stings; one of the 
latest, and supposed to be the best remedy, is 
carbolic acid. Liquid ammonia is a known good 
remedy, but many remedies are useless, as con¬ 
stitutions vary, and what would relieve pain in 
one case would probably produce a contrary 
effect in another. Tobacco in some cases 
moistened and rubbed on the affected part will 
stop the irritation. The bee, as a rule, leaves 
its sting in the wound, which causes its death; 
thus it sacrifices its life in the defence of its 
community. When stung, the sting should be 
removed as quickly as possible by pressing the 
barrel of a watch key over it, or it may be 
extracted with the point of a pen-knife, and the 
remedy applied. When attacked by a bee it is 
bad policy to fight and strike at it, because a 
misdirected blow ensures a retributive sting. 

Bax worth. S. S. G. 


were turning them out when seen battlin; 
together, as they will turn ont of the hive any- 
thing objectionable that it is possible for (bee 
to remove. Some of their enemies it is beyc-si 
their power to eject. A slug, for instance, wili 
occasionally find entrance to a hive, and beirz 
too heavy to lift or to roll, they cover him nr 
with propolis, and this prevents the ill-effects oi 
putrefaction. Having destroyed the ants' nee:, 
poultry would finish off the stragglers if they 
could be allowed the run of the place for a time. 
It would not be wise to tar the legs of the stand 
A good preventive to the intrusion of many of 
the bees' worst enemies, is glass rests for the fee; 
of the stand. A train of soot or lime laid on 
the ground round the hives would be a gre»: 
check to the visits of the ants.—S. 8. G, Bit- 
north. 

Moving bees.— Will it be practical to 
remove my two swarms of bees to a new position 
100 yards distant? I cannot remove them i 
portion of the distance at a time,—P. H. E 
[Hives of bees should not be moved more tiar 
three feet a day, not reckoning the days oa 
which the bees are not on the wing, for if move: 
much more than this at once, the bees, cm 
returning from the fields, will flutter about the 
old spot and be lost. “ P. H. B.” will tberefr:; 
certainly lose a great number of his bees if be 
mores them 100 yards at a time. Swanns wiL' 
keep to any position if removed at once ate 
swarming, but must not be again removed i 
greater distance than three feet at a time. A 
change of not less than two miles, however, wifi 
cause but little loss, as they are not likely to gr. 
upon their old track, and so be led back to the: 
former locality.—S. S. G., Boxorth.'] 

Patience. —Any dealer In beekeeper’s appliances, ral 
as Neighbour and Bona, will supply you with the glens 

B. B. JS.— Have the bees swarmed! 


Ants in beehives. —I have two strong 
stocks of bees in bar frame hives, and have 
lately noticed on the coverings inside a quantity 
of large black ants, which are called here “ horse 
emmets.” On watching the mouth of the hive, 
1 saw a bee come out struggling with two of 
these creatures fixed to its body. I did not wait 
to see the result, but killed the ants and set the 
bee at liberty. I have watched since and 
frequently find them battling together. What is 
their object—the bees or their honey ? How 
can I prevent them getting into the hives? If I 
paint the legs of the stand with tar, will the 
smell affect the bees ? I have destroyed the ants’ 
nest which was about a hundred yards frftrn the 
hives, but a quantity of the insects remain round 
the garden walls and trees, as they do not go to 
their nest at night. Any information will 
greatly oblige.—A Beginner of Beekeeping. 
[The object of the ants in getting into the hive 
is doubtless to obtain the sweets contained 
| therein, and the bees, objecting to their company. 


BIRDS. 

Insects in cages. —I cannot say if fir-m¬ 
oil will answer W. H. Harborne's purpose . 
think, however, that the following may be of nrc 
—First scrape the cage thoroughly, next scald 
well out with boiling water. After it is qnai 
dry, coat it well inside and out with the followin' 
mixture ;—spirit of turpentine, half a pm; 
camphor, half an ounce; spirit of tar, fox 
ounces ; dissolve the camphor in the turpentine, 
and then add the spirit of tar. This must be 
laid on with a small new paint brush, rubbed weii 
into all the crevices of the cage, where tie 
parasites or bird vermin usually harbour, so that 
they may all be dislodged and destroyed, as thee 
is great difficulty in rearing birds where tbo« 
troublesome pests exist in large quantum. 
After this is done, allow the cage to be exposed 
to the weather for not less than forty-eight hone, 
but a few days would be still better: next wash 
it out with warm water, in which a snail 
quantity of washing eoda has been previoo-h 
dissolved. Rinse off with pure water, ami last: 
whitewash it out. Quicklime, when procurin' 
is best for this purpose, when not, use comma 
whitening and pipeclay in equal proportions, st: 
add a small piece of alum. Be sure always ' 
sprinkle the bottom of the cage liberally with 
coarse sand, the coarser it is the better. Some 
prefer sea sand, but any kind will do. Sands 
essential, as it not only assists birds in tie 
process of digestion, but it also contains the 
material for the formation of the shell of the 
eggs. Clean out the cage as often as possible 
without unnecessarily interfering with the lea 
whilst sitting. The preparation of breedirE 
cages, one at a time, should commence in Jannai; 
when the birds intended for breeding have been 
selected. As a further prevention to the accumu¬ 
lation of insects, it will be found advisable to 
add a little alum dissolved in water to the white 
wash with which the breeding cage is coated 
out; a weak solution of alum may likewise be 
given with great advantage to the birds to bathe 
in, once or twice a week, in dry weather, as this 
mineral destroys the pests. Another precaution 
should be taken, and that is to rub the nest tins 
or boxes inside with a little sweet oil or butter. 
Camphor placed in small bags and buDg at the 
ends of the cage has likewise been found very 
useful.— Celer et Audax. 

Parrot dying. —In reply to “ Anxious," re- , 
specting parrots, I have one now about fourteen I 
years old, which has had no ailment whatever 



May 19, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


9 


135 


'luring: that time, and is generally admired for its 
beautiful plumage, not being in the habit of pluck¬ 
ing itself, which is caused generally through 
riving them meat, which we always avoid. Thecage 
should be kept particularly clean, all refuse being 
removed each morning, and a little clean sand 
sprinkled on the bottom. Avoid placing the 
bird in a draught or extreme temperatures. 
Mine is furnished with a tin at either end of the 
perch, one being supplied with fresh cold water 
every day, the other filled with canary seed, 
which has been the staple food during the whole 
time. Hemp seed heats the blood, and makes 
them fat, inducing apoplexy, to which they are 
subject, as also rheumatism. Mine will not eat 
t Indian corn, and sopped bread turns sour be¬ 
sides keeping the cage dirty. All should be 
scrupulously clean. They are very fond of a 
little ripe fruit, most kinds of pudding, and 
occasionally a stalls of Watercress, Lettuce, or 
r Celery. To teach them to talk, one sentence, not 
: too long, should be frequently repeated to them 
. very distinctly each day, and kept up until they 
know it, then another one tried, but the old ones 
. must not be omitted, or in time they forget them. 
“ — Ccebulea. 

a Answers to queries on birds.— I had 

intended giving “ Siskin * my opinion of what 
birds he could keep in his cage, but as I quite 
agreed with Mr. Greene’s information, I passed 
it by; but “ Ornithologist's ” statement that he 
E can keep ten birds in the best of health in 
5 - one small cage, startles me, unless they are all 
. redpoles. I find that the British finches are far 
, better in health, plumage, and song, if they are 
\ kept singly in the small cages that he describes, 

. but two or three birds together would require a 
very much larger cage. Mr. Greene will find 
that hemp seed does not improve the song of 
any bird, they will have a harsh, not a sweet 
song; it also makes wheezy hens more wheezy. 
- I can inform W. H. Harborne that fir-tree oil is 
i he best insect-killing fluid that I have ever tried 
for bird cages. I use it direct from the bottle, as 
it then permanently fills all cracks. I have never 
found it injurious to birds. If Henry Thompson 
• removes the eggs as his canaries lay them, and 
leaves a sham nest egg and returns them on the 
fourth day, they will all hatch at one time, but 
i 1 left in the nest they will hatch irregular, and 
the later hatched young will be probably crushed, 
an hen canaries usually commence to sit from 
: the first egg.—J. H. Verrall. 

Pish for canaries.—Is cuttle fish good for canaries 7 
I have heard it is good for bullfinches. Is this so?— 
~ COBIOLAKUS. 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 


To preserve eggs.— In the recipe given 
On page 101, in the number for April 28, 
•*F. M. L.” says, “should the water become 
turbid, pour it off and supply the lime, &c., with 
a fresh infusion. This may be done by boiling 
water to dissolve more of the same lime.” Does 
this mean that 2\ pounds more of unslaked lime 
most be slaked in a fresh quantity of boiling 
water (three gallons), and when cold pour all, 
both lime and water, into the first mixture from 
which the turbid water has been taken ? If this 
is done, will there not be a greater quantity of 
dissolved lime than is required, and will this 
do harm ? And farther, when the eggs are put 
in, must they remain undisturbed until wanted 
for use, say nine months, or will the strength 
of the ingredients pass away and more be re¬ 
quired to be put in ? If so, how much and how 
often ? And also, if the water is turbid and the 
eggs are put in, what harm will happen ?—H. G. 

Rhubarb wine — I made nine gallons of this wine 
h»t autumn. Not having any strong bottles, I decided to 
Wve it in the cask. Upon drawing n little out, I And it 
is still instead of sparkling. Can it be fermented again, 
or must it be treated as other home-made wines, and have 
■pints put In to keep it ?— A Subscriber. 


TRON TREE GUARDS.—Bor Sale, 43 strong 

1* Iron Tree Guard*, measuring 6 ft. high, 18 in. across 
bottom, mud 12 ia. across top; by taking tbewnole, price9a. 6d. 
eaoo—» bargain.—Apply W. K. BROOM* SON, 130, Earl's 
Oourt Road, S.W. 


A STrRS ! ASTERS.! I ASTERS 111 — 

l.OOO.tDO A '■ters from tinea i mported seed. Best Victoria, 
la I tod dwari Chrysanthemum, Truffaut'sPseony Perfection, 
\ \ and Betteridge'a prize Globe Quilled, same strain as we exhi- 
bit*d so successfully last seas m • line transplanted plants 
to. is. 9d.; 100.3s.. delivered-HARKNE8S * SON. Nuraery- 
l tuep. Bedale, Yorkshire._ 


pANSIES —100 autumn transplanted, well 
rr-otad plants, from open ground, in eight separate 
vajietbs. carefully packed, post free, for 3s 6d.—J F 
CALVIN, Mount Jalbot, Roscommon. 

DigitiWGO* 


.gie 


OREENHOUSES FOR THE MILLION.— 

VJ Portable Span-roof Villa Greenhouse, 10 feet by 7 feet, 
£4; Lean-to, 75».; Paxton Span-roof, 100s. ; Lean-to, 95s., 
The Amateur, 50s.; Conservatory, 12 feet by 8 feet, £7. Com¬ 
plete, no extra charge for stages, Ac. Over 3000 erected in 
all parts of the kingdom. See press opinions. Drawings. 3d. 
Estimates given for Horticultural Buildings. —Yorkshire 
Horticultural Works, Windhill, Shipley, Yorkshire; aDd 
High Street, Wood Green, London. 

T OVERS of Flowers should inspect the York- 
JLl shire Horticultural Co s Greenhouses at High Street, 
Wood Green, London; prices within the reach of all. from 
50s. Patent Heating Apparatus, 4 guineas; drawings, 3d^ 

SURPLUS BEDDING PLANTS. — Third 

kJ Season.—360 plants for 21s.. including Geraniums, Cal¬ 
ceolarias, Begonias. Coleus, 8tocks and ABtere, Marguerites, 
Heliotropium, Ac.; half. lla.; quarter. 6s.; carriage free 
cash with order.—J. HUGHES. Gardener, Bollinwood, 
Wilmslow, Cheshire. 16798 A 584 

■pGGS.—Dark Brahmas, Houdana, and brown 
JLl Leghorns; all first-clans pure-bred birds on unlimited 
crass run. Eggs guaranteed new laid; 4s. per dozen.— 
Mm. CUR-TOIM Brothertoft Hall. Boston. Lincolnshire. 

HRCHIDS. — Hardy, native Orchids for 

L/ outdoor cultivation ; beautifully spotted leaves, purple 
blooms, each one warranted; carefully packed ana post 
free; satisfaction guaranteed; 12 for Is.—T. P. MAY, 44, 
North Street/Hom castle. 

TTONEYSUCKLE.—Bearsa beautifully scented 
■LL flower all Bummer, covered with Bcarlet berries in winter, 
for arches, trellis work, summer houses. Ac. Six well-rooted 
selected plants, post free. Is.; satisfaction guaranteed— 
THOS. P. MAY, 44. North Street, Horncastle, Lincoln. 

T AWN TENNIS.— Set full-sized Lawn Tennis, 
JLl comprising 2 ladies and 2 gents’ full-sized best cedar- 
handled Racquets, 1 dozen covered and uncovered regulation 
Balls, best regulation Net (42 ft. by 3* ft.), brass-jointed, 
polished Poles, Mallet, Pegs, Lines, and Runnets, complete, 
In splendid iron-handled case, with rules, price, only £2 5s. ; 
value, £4 4 b. ; approval with pleasure.—T. P. MAY. 44, North 
Street, Horncastle. 

WERBENAS.—Cuttings, strong, healthy, well- 
V rooted in choice varieties, scarlet, w hite, purple, pink, 
Ac., 25, Is. 6d; 50, 2a. 6d.; 100, 4s ; 1000, 37s. 6d Vesuvius 
Geraniums, good strong plants, autumn struck, 8s 100 Single 
Dahlias, fine namnd sorts, 6s. dozen.—A. HTKOWLGEK, 
Florist, Bar eh am, Beoclea. 

OlNGLE DAHLIAS. — Strong seedlings from 
O finest named collection, grand varieties, Is. 6d dozen ; 
strong s nullings from good mixed kinds, all colours, Is. 
dozen ; Paragon, very best single known, rich velvety maroon 
and magenta, 9d. each, strong planes, free.—LAWS A SON, 
The Nurseries, Beccles. 

DAHLIAS l DAHLIAS 1-JAMES HOBBS has 

J J secured the surplus stock of au amateur grower and prize 
taker at the Great National Dahlia Show in London last 
year and at all the principal exhibitions during the lust 40 
years, and offers the taine in good strong plants, from single 
l>ot8, true to name, and best exhibition varieties only, 2s. 6d. 
per doz.—Lower Easton, Bristol. 

MOVELTIES FOR 1881k—SUNFLOWERS, a 

JLl few strong plants of this popular and beautiful flower, 
2s. per doz. 

MIMULUS, splendid new varieties, streaked and spotted, 
double the size of any old sorts, vicing with the Gloxinias os 
to size and colour. Is. 6d. per doz. 

JAPAN PINK, a great improvement on any hitherto 
offered, very large and most brilliant colours, Is per doz. 

Asters, Stocks. Petunias, Lychnis, Columbines, Giant 
Musk, Everlastings, African Marigolds, and Sweot Peas, the 
best sorts, only 9d per doz. 

Helichrysum, some splendid new varieties of this king 
amongst Everlastings, 1 b per doz.—JAMES HOBBS, Lower 
Easton. Bristol. 

A STAR AG U8 Connover'B Colossal, two years, 
Cx. very tine, 2s. 100 ;Artichoke Globe, two and three years, 
strong plants, 3s. doz. ; Sage, one year, 2s. 6d. per 100; two 
years, strong plants, Ga. 100; Seakale, two years, transplanted, 
li 4d doz., 9s. 100; Thyme, Btrong roots. 10s. 100; Rue, 
strong, one year, transplanted, 2s. 6d. per 100. Package free 
for cash with order to R. W. PROOTOR, Nureerymau, 
Seedsman, and Florist, Aahgate Road. Chesterfield. 

DANSIES. — Special offer for ten days; 100 
-L show varieties, all of best quality and true to name; my 
selection, 12 in 12 varieties, 3s.; 50, in 25 varieties, 11s ; 
100, in 50 varieties, 20. Violas in variety, Is doz., 5s. 100. 
All freafor cash with order to R. W. PROO rOR, Nursery¬ 
man, Seedsman, and Florist, Ashgate Road, Chesterfield. 
*DOR 8 ALE, — Ten good Garden Lights, fiye 
-L 6 ft. 4 in. by 3 ft. 4 in , and five 4 ft. 10 in. by 3 ft 5 in., 
10s. each —Apply G. SMITH, Southend Lane, Lower 
Sydenham. 

<0 INGLE DAHLIAS. — Cannel’s strain, well- 
O known, fine strong plants, out of single pots, six Is. 6d„ 
12. 2s. 6d., to include alba, or White Queen, carriage free, 
packing guaranteed.—J. SYLVESTER, Idle, Bradford. 

■DEAUTIFUL CLIMBERS.— ManderiUa sna 

Jj voolens, beautiful white flower ; Japanese Honeysu :kle, 
handsome reticulated foliage; Clitoris ternatea grauditlora, 
beautiful Pea-uhaped blossoms: Ballon Vine, handsome cut 
foliage, the four 2s.. free, packing guaranteed.—J. SYLVES¬ 
TER. Idle, Bradford 

UTTINDOW PLANTS.— 12 beautiful varieties 
for 2s., to include climbers and basket plants, all 
named, warranted to give satbfaction, free, packing guaran¬ 
teed.—J. SYLVESTER, Idle, Bradford. 

DEDD1NG PLANTS.— Well hardened Gera- 

-LJ niums. Verbenas, Cineraria maritiina. Petunias, Lobelia 
magnitica, is. per dozen. 6s. per 100; Centaurea candidissiina 
compacta and Peostemons, 2*. per dozen : Stocks, Asters. 
Dianthua laximatus and diadematus fl.-pl. Phlox Drum* 
rnumli. Helichiysum, Pansies, 25 for Is , 100, 3 l ; 50 fine 
beddiug plants, my selection. 2s. 6d.. luO, 4s. 6d., all fine 
stroDg plants for Immediate planting, carriage flee, packing 
guaranteed — J. SYLVESTER. Idle, Bradford 

(^.LOXlNlAS.—Tuberous-rooted Begonias, nice 
IT young plants ready for potting, of Daniel's, Caiiueli's, 
LaiugV, and Carter's strains, 6, 2s. 6d , 12, 4s. 6d, carriage 
fr#»e. packing 8uaraiite«d—J. SYLVESTER, Idle. Bradford. 

iqTLENDID named Scotch Pansies.—Twelve 
O grand exhibition varieties, including the rich velvety 
cr msoD Dean Ramsey, 3a., delivertd; twelve specially 
selected varieties for borders, handsome free-flowering kinds. 
2s. 6d., delivered.—HARKNES i A fcUN, Nurserymen, 
Bedale, Yorkshire, 


Hybrid Green Holly. 

Pyramids, 6 ft. to 7 ft., 6 b. each; 60«. per dog. 

7 ft to 8 ft., 7 b. „ 72s. „ 

N.B.—The above are vastly superior to the ordinary Green 
Holly. 

Beautiful specimens of all the choicest variegated and 
green varieties from 7s. 6d. Will thrive almost anywhere. 
Descriptive List free on application. 


RICHARD SMITH & CO., 

Nu rserymen & Seed Merchants, WORCESTER. 
OKEDS.—Richard Smith & Co.'b collections 
D (see catalogue, free on application) are wonderfully 
cheap and good, but those who like to make their own 
•elections are advired write for order sheet.—RICHARD 
SMITH * CO.. Seed Me:chaut«jm(l Nurserymen, Worcester. 

1AA HERBACEOUS aiid ALP1NE PLANTS 

J-UvJ for 25s.—Richard Smith k Co.'s selection of the 
above contain* a most interesting and valuable assortment of 
beautiful and hardy plants for the border or rockwork. b® as 
to produce flowers a* d render the garden att-active all 
through the year. Descriptive list on application.—RICH AH D 
SMITH k CO., Nmseiynien and Seed Merchants,Worcester. 

QRAPE VINES and ORCHARD HOUSE 

\J TREKS IN POTS.—Grape Vines, extra Btrong, abort* 
Jointed, and well ripened; planting cane*, 3a. 6d. o 6e. each ; 
extra strong fruiting eanes, 7 b. 6d to 10s. Orchard-house 
trees, fruiting in note, consisting of Peaches, Nectarines, 
Apricots, Plums, Cherries, Pears, Apples, and Figs. De¬ 
scriptive price list for Id. Btamp.— RICHARD SMITH It OO., 
Nurserymen and Seed Merchants, Worcester._ 


ROSES 


IN POTS; 

All the best new and old English and Foreign sorts, from 
18s. to 36e. per doz. 

Dracrtjifft* Lists Jr te on application. 

RICHARD SMITH & CO., 

WORCESTER. 


DICKSON k ROBINSON 

12, OLD MILLGATE, 

MANCHESTER. 


Genuine Seeds free by post. 

Per pkt.— b. d. 

CALCEOLARIA, D. & R.’s select strain l8.0d.it 2 6 
CINERARIA, D. & K.'s select large-flowering 

Is. 6d & 2 t 

CYCLAMEN PERSICUM GIOANTEUM ..10 

GLOXINIA BYBRIDA ERECT A .. ..10 

PRIMULA SINENSIS FIMBBIATA ALBA, 
RUBRA, or MIXED, 1>. & K.'s superb strain 

_ Is. 6 d. & 2 6 

Collections of choice hardy Flower Seeds, la. 6d„ 2s. 6d, 
3s. Cd., 5s., 7s. Gd., and 10«. 


AOOD STRONG GERANIUM PLANTS, la 3d. 

U dozen.—W. FICKLING, Ilillborough Hall Garden*, 
Norfolk. 


OILVER SAND DIRECT FROM PITS.—For 

V lowest price write.—HENRY WILKER80N, Leighton 
Buzzard. _ 

F UCHSIAS.—12 choice distinct varieties, in¬ 
cluding several splendid new and the cream of the older 
ones, 2s., freo.—HY. GODFREY, Nurseryman, Stourbridge. 


T7ALLOTA PCJRPDREA.—Very strong bulbs, 
V tc bloom this nuninur yd. each, 3 for 2s., 7a. 6d doz.— 
HY. GODFREY, Stourbridge. _ 

CJINGLE DAHLIAS.—Choico named varieties, 

kJ 38. dozeu ; 12 fine varieties, unnamed. 2s. 6d. free.— 
HY. GODFREY, Nurseryman, Stourbridge. 


rtOLEUS.— Grand aorta, 6 for Is. 3d.: 12 for 

2a.. free, strong and well rooted.—A. McOALLUM. 
Florist. Kimberley, Nottingham. 


\TEW COLEUS, MRS. WEBB, the most 

J-v brilliant variety ever offered, awarded a first class cer¬ 
tificate by the Nottinghamshire Horticultural and Botanical 
Soc ety Strong plants, now ready, 2s. 9d. each, free.—A. 
McCALLUM, Florist. Kimberley, Nottingham. 


FERNS A SPECIALITY. 

Exotio and British Ferns and SelagineUas, 

Suitable for STOVE and GREENHOUSE cultivation, for 
OUTDOOR FERNERIE8, and other purposes in immense 
number and variety. Our ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE 
(price 6d.) contains much useful information as well as 
1 Hints on Feru Culture." SPECIAL LISTS ivsued at inter¬ 
vals during the year, giving extremely low quotations, may 
be had FREE on application. 

W. & J. BIRKENHEAD, 

Fern Nursery, hale, Manchester. 


SPRING BEDDING PLANTS, Dahlias, choice 

Florists' Flowers, hardy Perennial Plants, etc. 

New Spring Catalogue now ready, post free. 

J. CHEAL k BOVS. Crawley, Sus sex_ 

■PANNED NETTING.—2 yds. wide, lfrd. per 

J- yd. ; 4 yds. wide 3d. per yd ; 2 yds. wido, 10s. per 100 
yds ; 4 yds. wido, 20s. per 100 yds. NEW TWINE NET¬ 
TING 1-in. mesh, 1 yd wide, 2d. ; 2 yds wide, 4d.; 4 yd*, 
wide, 8d per yd—'W. CULLINGFORD, Forest Gate, E. 



136 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


I Mat 19, 18S3 


fl H E A P PLANTS. Carriage Paid.- 

12 Verbena* In 12 splendid named sorts, 1*. fid. , 100, 8s. 6<L 
100 Verbenas, white, purple, scarlet, anil pink, 6s. 6<L 
12 PuchsiAa in 12 lovely varieties, Is. bd. ; lOO. 8s. 6d. 

12 Pansies in 12 splendid show kinds, 2s 6d ; 100, 18s. 

12 Ageratum Imperial dwarf. Is. 3<L ; 100, 6s. 6d. 

12 Heliotropes, light or dark kinds, Is 3d. ; 100. 0s. Oil. 

12 Meseiubryauthetiium cord, vam-gatuui, Is. 3d.; 100, Gs. 6<L 
12 Coleus in 12 splendid uauicd sorts, 2s 
12 Ire-me Lind* ui aud others, Is. 3d ; 100. 6s. Gd. 

12 Calceolaria Gulden Gem. Is. Od. ; 100, 8 a 
T erms Cash. The plants are clean, healthy, and well routed. 
The Executors of the late 

H. BLANOFORD, 

The Dorset Nurseries. Blandford 

pKBTILlSXNG JlOSS, oar Speciality.—All 

J- plant growers should send for our sample box with 
growing plant 
MANAGER, 


samp 

and cultural directions. Is., post free. — 
Great Frenches, Crawley Down. Suwex. 


SPECIAL POTATO MANURE. 

A natural Guano, combined with special condensed Potuto 
stimulants; agrees with the experiments recently made 1 
the Cork Agricultural Society. Prepared by a silcccsT 
Potato grower and writer ou Potato culture. In bags from 
7 lbs. to 2 cwt. free on rail. 

Extbact rnoM Analyst's* Rkport. 

Of eeveral tamyle* of our Special Potato Manure tnihmitted 
to our anulynt, the analutt saps; “No. 1 is V*HY wool' 
INURED for the purpose.' 

for nucr.s apply, 

The Manager, Great Frenches, 

__ Crawle y Down . 8ugseac. 

PLANTS well eutahliahed in fertilising Mors, 
t equal to 4-in. j*ots —Named Fuchsias. Zonal Geranium 1 -. 
Coleus. Genistas. Eupatoriuius. 3s. perdoz. ; named tuberous- 
rooted and foliage Begonias. 4s. 6(1, Heliotrope.*. Laulaiias 
Balvia splendens, 2a fid All good plants, well rooted.— 
MANAGES, Great Frenches, Crawley D jwn, Sussex. 

•TOMATO PLANTS.—Best three varieties. .'i 

■L dorm for Is fid . good plants fit for 4-»u. pots. Celery 
plants for pricking out, Is 0*1. 100 in four best varieties.- 
MA NAGE R. Great Frenches, Crawley Down, Sussex 

T OK ELI A, stout plant*, blue, mauve, and 
■LI white, 3 dnz , 2*. 6*1 Antirrhinum, 12 named varieties, 
Is. doz. P* utstemona, seedlings from best sorts, Is dor.. 
beedlmg Tuberous Begonia*, from named varieties, Is dor 
Orders over Is, post free, or in hampers paid to London — 
Great Frenches, Crawley Down, busses. 

T O EXHIBITORS.—Betteridge’s prize (juilled 

Asters. 12 colours, separate; prize dwarf aud tall striped 
French, and orange, lemon, and quided African Marigolds . 
finest double Zinnias, 12 cjlours, mixed , Henry's Prize anil 
Lyon Leeks All stout seedlings, at fid per dozen , over 2s 
post fre e —MAN AGER, Great French *s, Ciuwhy Down. 

A 7 

of 

borough 


GAIN 1 otter strong, choice, old-fashioned 

hardy perennials, 25 for 5s. fid. rare bargum ; 25 packets 
flower seeds, 2a.—W. TITTERTON, Florist, Lough- 


(UlhAU COLLECTION OK REDDING 
VJ PLANTS.— Carbon and Son s Guinea Collection is 
aure tu please; It contains 10 dux. Geraniums from single 
pots, bronze, silver-edged, pink, and scaibt, all the best 
varieties, strong and well rooted, and 15 doz. various, in¬ 
cluding Verbenas, Petunias, Lobelias, Pe(illa, Ageratum, 
MeSDinbryanthctnum cord. vor. (Tropuroluin scarlet), 
Indian Piuk (double), Zinnia elegans (double), Pblox Drum- 
uiondigranaifloru, Imported Stocks and Asters, Fuchsias, etc., 
all spleudid mixed varieties named Half the above. 11s ; 
quarter for 6s., all carriage paid and carefully packed, free. — 
CAS BON and HON, Florists. Mill field Nursery. Peterboro*. 

S INGLE DAHLIAS.—Strong seedlings from 
finest-named sorts, all colours, mixed 2*. doz , free, in 
tin boxes, carefully packed In damp Most.—CASBON and 
BON, Floriati, MiUfleld, Peterboro*. 

B EDDING GER AN1U M S, b 6 st varieties. — 

Bronze, silver-edged, scarlet, pink, and white named 
varieties, extra strong, bushy, and well rooted, all from 
single pots. 2s. fid doz, 5 doz. for 10s.. ail carriage paid 
Order early to avoid disappointment ; many orders received 
too late for execution lost year Testimonials from patrons 
of previous years ou application.—CASBON and SON. 
Florists, Mil,Held, Peterboro". 

WINDOW BOX COLLECTION. - SiY 

Ivy-leaved Geranium*, variegated green and double, 
12 Zonal Geraniums, bronze, silver-edged scarlet, anil pink • 
6 Splendid mixed Verbenas, 6 yellow Calceolarias, 18 Lobelias,' 
blue and white com pacta, carriage paid, for 5s.; half, 2s 9d ’ 
all fr ee.—CAS BON AND 80 N, Floris ts, M iUfleld, Pe terburo"' 

CHEAP BEDDING PLANTS. - Imported 

y Stocks and Asters. Phlox Drummondi graudiflora 
Indian Pink, finest double ; Zinnia elegans, finest double ; 
Balsams, finest double ; ail splendid mixed varieties. Migno¬ 
nette, Miles' Hybrid Spiral, all fid. doz. ; 5 doz assorted, 2s 
Nasturtium King Theodore, Tom Thumb, spleu-lid scarlet 
Is. 3d. per doz ; 5 doz 5s All the above are strong and 
healthy. Carriage paid, in tin boxes—CASBON and oON 
Florists. Mlllfleld, Peterboro.' 


LUMBERS FOR TRELLIS WORK.-Coba* 

V scandens (purple) and Tropiuolum Lobbianurn (brilliaut 
scarlet! two of each for 2s. 6J_. free or separate in tin box.— 
CA SBON Si SON. Flo rists. M illfle l d, Peterboro " 

F IW SEMI-DOUBLE ZONAL PKLARGO- 

NIUM EMILY CASBON.—Strong plant!of the above 
splendid Pelargonium can now be supplied at Is. each 
free.—For description etc., see Gardening of March 10 or 
17. or apply to CASBON & SON, Florists. MiUfleld Nursery. 
Peterboro. I sgg { 

Now Ready\ 

HUH new Illustrated and Descriptive Cat a- 

lofoa of FERNS 

Price three stamps, gratis to customers ; the finest collection 
of British Ferns in the trade. 

ALso IN the I’iiesm, oar new Descriptive Catalogue of 
AiPIimE PLANTfa 
Contains the cream of this beautiful class. Prices very rea¬ 
sonable. Free on application. 

F. W. k H. STANSFIELD (formerly of 1'odmordeu), Sale, 

_ Near Manchester. 

THE REST MATERIAL foi 1 lying.— 

A RAFFIA, Cd per lb. ; low quotations for quantities in 
bales.—J. CLIFFORD ^85^ Bank Street, Malditoon 

Digitized by CjOOQIC 


DANIELS’ CHOICE STRAINS T: oNALOERANIUMSfromB W -knight 

d n It I L L v UllUIUk UlliniHU Zj unrivalled collection. Having one of the largest 


FLORISTS* FLOWER SEEDS 

FOR PRESENT BOWING. POST FREB. 

We (8i< Mverial attention to the <jrvtrth ami selection of our 
choice ttratnM of PlorietM' Flutter Settle, anti cun guarantee 
Uu follotcinj tuufunrurpaotably fine quality. 



Per packet—a. d. 


. 1 0 


AURICULA, choicest Alpine . 

BEGONIA. Tuberous-rooted hybrid, from a splendid 

collection. ,. Is fid. aud 2 l 

CALCEOLARIA HYRRlDA,«upcrbtigredand*pott< d 

Is. fid. and 2 I 

CARNATION, choicest double, from stage flowers 

CINERARIA IIYBRIDA, magnificent large-flowered 

strain Is fid and 2 t 

CYCLAMEN PFRSiri M GIGANTEUM, very fine.. 2 t 
CANTERBURY BELLS. Dt-au's new hybrid single, 
splendid .. .. .. .. .. ..1C 

•• » double, rose, beautiful massive 

flowers ,, .. .. ..1C 

•• •• choicest mixed 6d. and 1 C 

GLOXINIA HYBRIDA CRASS I FOLIA, superb 
__ mixed .. ., la. 6<L and 2 f 

HOLLYHOCK, Chater's finest double .. ..If 

MIMIW.US. Daniels' large flowered, splendid ..1C 

PANSY, Darnels' Prize blotched, very fine varieties 

Is. 6d and 2 f 
•• , Improved Striped, beautiful varieties 1 £ 
rluUIEE, choicest double, from named flowers 

T.r.rw*.. » , ... 1*. and S ® 

I RIMULA. Chiswick red. magnificent strain,. .. 2 fi 

„ alba niagnifica, splendid fringed.. .. 2 6 

m Daniels' ihoiceat red .. .. .. 1 fi 

•• .1 „ white .. .. .. 1 fi 

•• •• •• mixed .. Is. 6d. and 2 6 

Fern-leaved. very choi r. mixed .. .. 1 fi 

PRTMROSK, beautiful hybrid varieties, mixed ..10 

POLYANTHUS, tine gold laced ., ..10 

STOCK, East Lothiau, rcarlct. finest double .. ..10 

•• ■« •« pure white ,, .. .,10 

•• .• ., mixed „ ,, ..10 

., Brompton Giant, scarlet ,. ,, ..10 

— m. .. I. mixed .. ..6(1 and 1 0 

SWEET WILLIAM, magnificent strain .. fid and 1 0 

WALLFLOWER, dble. German, splendid mixed C<1 and 1 0 

DANIELS BROS.. 

Royal Norfolk Seed Establishment, Norwich. 

CHEAP BEDDING PLANTS. 

Geraniums, scarlet, pink, magenta, strong autumn struck, 
in single pots, 2s. 6*1. ilox, l.V 100; turned out of pot*. 2s. 
<loz. oi 12s. lfcO; variegated ditto. 2s W. doz . 20s per 100; 
out of pots. 2s 3d. dor . lfis t»er ICO; bron/e. 3s 6<1 d»r. ; 
Calceolaiias. Is. 6d. doz.; Verbena*, four colours. 2s. fid 
doz. ; Heliotropes, 2s. fid. doz.; Lobelias, 2-in. pots, 2s. doz.; 
turned out, la. 6d 


Florifct, 


XT. HAIN, 
WhltPcroea Street. Hereford. 


GERANIl'MS 60,000 Dozen. GERANIl’MS 00,000 Doom. 

GERANIUMS CO,000 Dozen. 

A CHOICE Selection of Geranium*, Calceolarias, 

Li Fuchsias, Ageratum*. I\ tuniai, Coleus, and all the lead¬ 
ing kind- of plants for carpet bedding, kc. Rooted cuttings at 
&*. per 100 ; luige planti. 

G. D. BLAGROVE, 

BLACKHEATH NURSERIES. UPPER ST. JOHN'B 
__ PARK, BLACKHEATH. 


WILLIAMS’ 

Prize Medal Florists’ Flowers 

FOR 1883, POST FREE. 

Il’iJIianui' collection* of Primula* anil Cyclamens hut* (hit 
reason been awarded Eight Prize Medal*. 

Williams' Calceolaria, mixed.erpkt—s. d. 

Williams' Cineraria, mixed. 16 

William*' Cyclamen pinicum, mixed .. .. .,16 

WILLIAMS' COLLECTIONS OF PRIMULAS. 

To meet the increasing demaud, I have decided to offer 
mixed co'luctisns at a cb* *p rate, which contain the 
following varietiis : Alba niagnifica, Chiawnk Red, ooocinea, 
purple, red. and white, per packet Is 6d. and 2* fid. 

/ lluatrated Seed Cutultyue pout free on application. 

B. 8. WILLIAMS, 

VICTORIA and PARADISE NURSERIES. UPPER 
HOLLOWAY, LONDON, N. 


lq 1H I ( l * REE.-—12 ipUmini van 

AO. 1U, ) Of flower iwd, including Antirrhinum. Asters, 
Ba’sams. Ciarkla, Calliope is, Couvulvulu*. Hetichrysum, 
Nemoi-hila. Wallflowers, etc. Send at once. Lists free — 
ROHE YEAR, Seedsman, Fareham, HauU. 


Itions extant, I am now enabled to offer 100 L__ 

Geraniums, single and double, in 10U varieties, all tm t* 
name, for lfit* . securely ^jacked, carriage paid to Lol-1 
bmalicr quantities of specid varieties post free. 

12 unrivalled vars. ZONAL GERANIUMS, the p..» 

11880, 4s. 

12 vara, specially-selected ZONAL GERANIUMS of li. 
Gs. 

12 vars. most approved older ZONAL GERAlklUMS. Sa 
12 extra .elect vara. DOUBLE GERANIUMS of l3c\ 

12 very superb uew vara DOUBLE GERAXIT'Ms 

1881, fi*. 

12 var*. must approved older DOUBLE GE RAX TTTMS i 
12 cuperb vars. FUCHSIAS for pots or borders, 2a. 

12 very superb vars FUCHSIAS of 1879-80, 4*. 

12 extra kuixirb vara FUCUBlAH of 1881. fie., i«t free. 

12 extra new vara. FUCHSIAS of 1882, sent out u. Mxr 
last for the first time by Mr. Bull. Mr. Williams. 
Contintutal kind* ; these are unrivalled kinds; 12 for Sfc. 

i fie following superb GERANIUMS have obtained err. 
ficate*, aud have been highly recommended in the A 
tural papers, are now offered at 6d. each, port 
i K1 MfiON V ES U V1US, doz ker sh ade than the old Ve 
I'RIMA Di >NN A. large pure white : I'VE GOT IT. ti - 
blooming pura white: WEST BRIGHTON (iKM, trwr: 
scarlet; NEWLAND 8 MARY, deep pink ; kL M. F».iL 
LE I T, deep crimson ; ROHA LITTLE, deep tcarleC ; W h 
Mll.LKlt, large, bright scarlet; LORD GIFFORD, o 
■cailet . HENRY .JACOBY, deep crimson, beak for pot* _■ 
Ix-'iding; M 118, STRUTT, the largest-flowert-d iiza 
MARIE TALLANDLER, new large doable white; M2 
GLADSTONE, orange-scarlet, by some said to be a dou:j 
Guinea. The above 12 superb varieties, fid. each, peat frw 
12 GERANIUM VESUVIUS, Is. 6d. | 

12 GERANIUM WHITE VESUVIUS, Ijl fld. 

12 (.i rantum wonderful, is. 6<i 

12 double pink GERANIUM MADAME THIBAUT. li 
12 double whiU* GERANIUM MADAME llAL'l KT l. 

12 hue varieties GOLDEN BRONZE BICOLOR GEE'. 

N11 MS, the best and moat approved kind*. 4s.. dom f?.* 

12 MARGUERITE, or Fans Daisy, tile free-bkooESEZ 
white variety, for 4*., or fid. each, p«*t free. 

NEW GOLDEN MARGUERITE Mr. Howard's 

bright yellow, very free bloomer, 4s. per dozen, or 6d. 

12 van*. Sweet scented CAFE FELARGONlL'MS, 
able tor window deooration and for bouquets, 4*. 

12 var* hardy HERBACEOUS PHLOXES, very flot h 
1 - (uni U >N AL GERANIUMS that hate *n 
be goo*l winter bloomers, 4* 

12 van* ABUTILONH. the uew dwarf_ 

so usclul tor cut blcK>m (luring the wiuter. 

12 var* GREENHOUSE FLANT8. the bee 
varieties, fi* 


isnb 


i proved > 


12 I1EL10TR0PIUT48, beet dwarf kin«U. la. 6d per dco- 
12 LOBELIA KING OF BEDDERS, the dark«t bice. 
best dwarf bedder yet produced, Is , post free. 

12 LOBKUA WHITE yUEEfi, iho lu(ot nn ri. 
d»..rf bedder jet produced, la. 6d.. post free. 

12 select varieties L ANT AN AS, free-blooming bed* u 
plant (equal to Verl>enas). also a useful i»ot plank U 
varieties, 2s. 6*L. post free. 

12 KELEC1ED NEW COLEUS.-Theae are the pick oi C. 
English and Continental kinds. The set of 12 varieties, m 

free, for 3s. 

13 MOST APPROVED COLEUS of previoua atasom 
post free 

COLEUS VERSCHAFFELTI. the b«X for beddii* U 

per doz.. post free. 

12 vars. Show. French, and Fancy PELARGONIUMS it 
12 vars. Regal and Decorative PELARG4 >N ll'MS. 9a 
12 vars. GREENHOUSE FERNS. 6s. 

All the above are GOOD PLANTS, po*t frwe. Order- d 
10« and upwards, if desired, will be packed in bcxxaa. acd nzz 
by rail, carriage paid to London, from 

B- W . KNIGHT. Florist. BatU*. 8 


T710LAS TRUE BLUIk^by far the 

V MRS. GRAY, the best white ; YELLOW DWJJF 
the best yellow ; MRS. CHARLES TURNER, the bum- 
PANSIES, veiy choice nanie*l *how and fancy kind*. 3* *: • 

4* per doz. POLYANTHUS Dean's Giant Whits k! 
Giant Yellow, stronc plants. 15s. per 100. VaLERLAXA THT 
Al REA hardier than Golden Feather and as bnxtit l!a 
per 100. N.B.— Send for catalogue of Violas and Pans»* 1 * 
pneta, etc.—WILLIAM DEAN, Florist, Walaall Staff * 
shire. 

T OVKKS' bK HARDY PLANTS BbouBaari 

-LJ Aquilegia ebrysantha, a loveiy yellow Columbia* wtk 
long spurs; 4 strong plants free for 2*.— R. M A w tv. a vi,^>«. 
Lytham. 

THE FINEST VIOLET, is OdoratSsI 

S' .."".TfCo’ 1 ';'' now; 6 pUnta frre for U 6d- 

R MARIES, Horut, Lytham. 

E VERYONE should grow Anemone japonici 

alba, large white flowers iu the aut mm : 4 stronr da- u 
free for Is. 6d —R . MAR IKS, Flori st._L>xh»"i , 

should 


white 


E veryone Htiouia rtow the new 

sweet-scented Pink Mrs. Sinkins; 4 stronir nlanU fm 
f or 2s.- R MARIES. Flori.t, Lythsm. 


12 


SINGLE • DAHLIAS, fine strain. goo*l 
plants, free for 2s. 6<1—R. MARIES, Flor ist. Ljuu 


CHOICE assorted herbaceous plant 6, named, 

\J\J for 12s. fid , packing free great variety iu stock.-E 

MARIE S, Florist . Lytham. _ _ 

THE TEDIOUSNESS of PRICKING OUT 

A SEEDLINGS is overcome by using the Cnwceot Ttci 
which make* this operation pleasant and rapid: ro*t fr.. 
14 stamps.— W. J. STANTON. 131, Norfolk 8t . Kings Ljr.r 

fiov 


RING’S 


NEW COLEUSES for 1SS3 

ready:— 

Cclumbine, flrrt-claaa certificates R.H.8., brilliant c._ 

laid on in flakes.fts. escb 

Mits Wsutherhall, Naples yellow fiery crimson* and bb*x 
light green edge, a splendid variety .. .. 3a v— 

Sir Garnet Wolseley. scarlet centre, edged with erase and 

yellow. 3a Id. each 

Lord Charles Beresford. crimson centre bordered with hlsck 
olive green e*lge; this has a grand constitution 3a 6d. snob 
Or the Bet for 15s. Cash with order. The usual diacxmnt »o 
the trade J. K. will also send twelve of his moat popular 
and distinct varieties of 1881 and 1882 (which are the rmax 
beautiful varieties in oommeroe) for 6a. nost fr«« PoatmSco 
orders made payahle at Aylesbury.—Address JAMES KING. 
Florist and Se* <l Grower, Rowaham, Aylesbury. 

New Bedding Plant. - 

n.YNURA AURANTIACA, 1 a 6 <L each. If*. 

^ |H-r doz . strong plants in *ingle pots. Trade price on 
application tq-J. UUEAI. k SONS. Lowfleld No 
Crawley. Catalogues of spring bedding plants, lHh 

on applicatiuii. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOISAT 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 














































GARDENING ILLUSTRATED, 


Vol. V. MAY 26, 1883. No. 220. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Ctnitintied fro/u page 126.) 

Rose Stocks. 

Both the Manetti and the Briers are easily in¬ 
creased to any extent by cuttings, and in the 
preparation of the cuttings, which should be 
from 8 inches to 10 inches long, some pains 
should be taken in the removal of the eyes or 
buds from the baso and all up the cuttings, 
except tho uppermost eyes, which are left to form 
the heads of the plants. The cuttings should be 
prepared early in the autumn, not later than the 
beginning of November, and, if possible, they 
should be planted at the same time, or at least 
they must be laid in the soil, so that the work 
of callousing and healing the wounds may be 
going on. The cuttings should be planted in 
rows 1 foot apart, burying them up to the eyes, 
which are left to form the growth. The best 
wav is to make a nick by the side of the line 
with the spade, deep enough to receive the 
cuttings ; then press the cuttings into the nick 
until they rest on the firm bottom, making the 
soil firm" about them, afterwards drawing the 
soil up round them with a rake. The cuttings 
may be planted thickly, as probably they may 
not all grow, though if the work lias been care¬ 
fully done early in the autumn the failures will 
be few. 

Cuttings from the Brier may be rooted in the 
same way. The strongest one-year-old wood 
should be selected for cuttings, and where the 
branches turn be had with a heel (if only a few 
are required), it will be an advantage to have 
them so. At the end of the first year the rooted 
cut tings of JIanetti should be lifted and planted 
in nursery rows 3 feet apart and 1 foot from 
plant to plant, for budding the following year. 
The same care in removing all eyes or buds from 
the lower part of the stock must be observed as 
in the case of cuttings; if eyes are left, they 
give so much trouble when they develop (which 
Ihey will do) suckers underground. All the 
roots must be cut away from the upper part of 
the stocks, as the latter must, not be planted so 
deeply in the ground as when it was a mere cut¬ 
ting without roots. The object of this is to 
enable the bud to be inserted as near the bottom 
of the rooted cutting as possible, so that when 
it becomes a Rose the stock may be buried out 
of sight altogether, and the Rose ultimately be 
on its own roots. The same routine will be per¬ 
formed -with the dwarf Brier. To make stan¬ 
dards the Briers should be planted early in 
autumn in nursery rows 3 feet apart, be secured 
from the winds, and mulched with long manure, 
to encourage the formation of roots. 

Budding Roses 

Is easy and simple; after a little practice any¬ 
one may do it successfully. The chief thing is 
to select the wood when in a right condition— 
when it is neither too soft nor too firm. The 
experienced budder can tell by the feel of the 
young wood if the buds are likely to take, and 
this is the reason why an experienced man 
seldom fails to make his buds grow. Unless the 
conditions of suocess are present, he waits till 
they are. Very often in dry, hot weather the 
bark is dry and harsh, and the buds, if inserted 
then, will not grow'; but by waiting a day or two 
a shower may come and liberate the bark, and 
then scarcely a bad fails. It is mainly a question 
of watering and watching. Standard Briers re¬ 
quire more care and patience in waiting till the 
bark is in the right condition than the dwarfs, 
and the JIanetti may be budded as late as 
September. Therefore, as soon as budding can 
begin, which will be early in July, attend to the 
standard Briers first, then the dwarf Briers, and 
lastly the JIanetti. In bndding dwarf Roses— 
both the Briers and the JIanetti — it may 
happen that by the removal of a little earth with 
a sharp pointed stick from around the collar of 
the plant on the north side, that moist 
bark will be found, which will work freely 
in the hottest weather, and the lower the 
buds are inserted in the side of the stock 
the better for the plants. Having made 
sure that the bark of the stock works freely, 

Digitized by GOtoglC 


then work up the buds, and where there is a 
good collection of Roses grown, some will he 
sure to have suitable buds fit for working. In 
budding several of a sort, it will be better to do 
them all at the same time if possible, as then 
one label will do, and it is always desirable to 
have the names or numbers placed on the rows 
of plants as the budding is proceeded with. The 
knife must be very sharp; indeed, no one should 
perform any operation that requires the sever¬ 
ance of long tissues with a blunt instrument, and 
in the case of standards the buds must be placed 
on the upper side of the young shoot, close to 
the main stem. When one has gained experi¬ 
ence and confidence, one bud in each stock will 
do, but amateurs may with advantage, in dis¬ 
budding the stocks, leave two shoots if well 
placed. I should have said that, during the 
spring, the stocks should be attended to, and all 
useless growth removed. It is best to bud in 
showery weather, or on dull days in the even¬ 
ing or early in the morning; or if the work must 
be done in bright sunshine, as much expedition 
as possible should be used in tying in tho buds. 
There is no advantage in making the shield of 
the bud larger than from halE to three-quarters 
of an inch in length, and of proportionate width. 
Large shields involve more mutilation of the 
stock, and are more difficult to manipulate. 
The wood from which the buds are taken should 
have been previously cut from the plants, the 
leaves removed, leaving about an inch of the 
leaf-stalk or petiole. The little bundles of 
young shoots are then labelled and placed in a 
pan or a pail partly filled with water to keep them 
fresh. A bundle of slips of soft tying material 
are also prepared and kept in the water. Remove 
the buds from the parent branch by making an 
upward cut, beginning a short distance below 
the bud, taking off a thin slice of wood with it; 
then, by a little jerk with finger and thumb in 
contact with thc’point of the knife, extract the 
wood from the back of the bud, leaving the 
centre or eye of the latter intact. The pressure 
should be applied from the lower end of the 
shield, and as this is a most importantoperation, 
much care should be exercised, for if the centre 
of the bud comes away, or is injured by extract¬ 
ing the wood, the bud cannot grow, and all our 
work will be useless. When I have cut out the bud 
to my satisfaction, I place it in my mouth whilst I 
prepare the stock for its reception, which is only 
the work of a very few seconds. An upward 
longitudinal cut is made just through the bark 
of the branch in which we intend placing the 
bud, starting away from near the main stem. 
This cut should be a trifle longer than the 
shield of the bud, in order to permit of tho 
latter being easily pushed under the bark. A 
transverse cut is made also just through the 
bark a short distance from the upper end of the 
cut lengthwise of the branch, and intersecting 
it. The ivory handle of the budding knife is 
then used to detach the edges of the bark from 
the wood, which, if all works well, will be a very 
easy matter; the bud is then slipped in and 
pushed home, and tying in completes the pro¬ 
cess. In nurseries the young shoots in which 
the buds are inserted are not ,as a rule, headed 
back till the following spring, it heing considered 
the plants from buds that remain dormant are 
the stronger for their long period of rest. In 
this way I have seen very strong plantsfrom one 
season’s growth. But when the stocks are 
strong and well established, and the buds are 
inserted early in the season, if the stocks are 
headed back as soon as the buds are swelling 
and showing signs of growth, a crop of flowers 
may bo obtained in autumn. 

Grafting Roses. 

This is usually practised in spring under glass, 
and is mostly confined to nurseries, though for 
a good many- years past I have annually grafted 
a few Roses. There is so little trouble, when 
one has a hotbed at work, to graft a few dozen 
of the choicest kinds. Just, about the time the 
Briers are pushing their buds on the south side 
of the hedges on the warm sunny banks, I and 
a man with a spade start off into the fields near. 
In tho course of a very short time wo comeback 
with a basketful of roots of the common Brier, 


or Dog Rose. These are ent into rather small 
pieces, each piece having a fibre or two to lead 
it into growth. The grafts are procured from 
plants when the buds are dormant, and are cut 
into pieces about t inches long. A slice is cut 
off one side of the thick end of the root, and a 
corresponding slice is cut off one side of the 
graft at the lower end. The two cut edges are 
fitted and bound together, and all the grafted 
roots are potted into as small pots as they can 
be got into nicely; usually 4-inch or 0-inch pots 
are the best. The pots are then plunged into a 
bottom-heat of 75°, kept close, and, when 
the sun shines brightly, shaded by laying a mat 
over the glass. JVhen the grafts have shot forth 
several inches, ventilation will be required, and 
less shading should be used. The growth is very 
rapid with plants propagated in this way. They 
may be planted out and be in flower by- August 
if well cared for. 

Roses trom Guttings. 

There are many ways of striking Rose cuttings, 
but the best I have yet seen or practised is to 
prepare a bed with a very slight bottom-heat 
about the end of July or the beginning of 
August, when the young wood is getting a little 
firm. A hotbed that lias been used for propa¬ 
gating bedding or other stock in spring, and that 
has parted with a portion of its heat, will do 
very well. On the bed place 6 inches or 8 inches 
in depth of Cocoa fibre refuse in a partial state 
of decomposition, and in this dibble the cuttings. 
The latter should be taken from healthy plants ; 
if they possessed a heel all the better, but they 
will root without it. The frames must be kept 
close and shaded. The exhausted Cocoa fibre 
does not part readily with its moisture, therefore 
very little water will be required. Its great 
utility as a medium for rooting cuttings consists 
in this even state of moisture, as most of the 
mortality- among cuttings arises from damp 
being present in excess. As soon as the cuttings 
have made roots half an inch or so long, they 
should be lifted carefully out of the bed, potted, 
and kept in the same temperature under like 
conditions until they have made some growth, 
when they will bear removal to a cool frame to 
be hardened off. Another way of striking Rose 
cuttings is to plant them in the open air early in 
October, making all firm about them, and 
sheltering with a little dry litter in cold, frosty 
weather. Roses may be rooted from cuttings in 
pots under glass in spring ; the cuttings to be 
taken from plants that have been forced. 

Varieties. 

The following list includes the best varieties 
in the various sections:— 

Hybrid Perpetuate .—Captain Christy, Duchesse 
de J'allombrosa, A. K. JVilliams, Alfred Colomb, 
Abel Carriisre, Avocat Duvivier, Anna de Dies- 
bacb, Antoine Ducher, Baroness Rothschild, 
Roildieu, Beauty of Waltham, Comtesse de 
Serenye, Cheshunt Hybrid, Comtesse Riza du 
i’arc, Charles Lefebvre, Countess of Oxford, 
Duke of Connaught, Due de Hontpensier, 
Duchess of Bedford, Dupuy Jamain, Krnily 
Laxton, Empress of India, Etienne Levet, 
Emilie Hausburg, Francois Jlichelon, Gabriel 
Tournier, Hippolyte Jamain, Jean Liabaud, 
John Stuart Mill, Jean Sonpert, John Hopper, 
Julius Finger, Jules Jfargottin, La RosiJre, La 
France, Lord Beaconsfield, Louise Darzens, 
Mons. E. Y. Teas, Mrs. Baker, Jldlle. Marie 
Finger, JIargnerite Brassac, Jldlle. JIaric Cointet, 
Jladame Lacharme, Miss Hassard, Mrs. Laxton, 
Jlagna Charts, JIadamo Prosper-Laugier, Jldlle. 
Bonnaire, Jldlle. Marie Rady, Marchioness of 
Exeter, Jtabel Jloirison, Jladame Ferdinand 
Jamain. Jladame Nachury, JIarie Baumann, 
Marquise de Cnstellane, Oxonian, Prince Arthur, 
Princess Beatrice, Prince Camille de Rohan, 
Reynolds Hole, Royal Standard, Star of Waltham, 
Sultan of Zanzibar, Sir Garnet JVolseley, Rev 
J. B. Camm, Penelope Mayo, Perle des Jardins, 
Xavier Olibo, JVhite Baroness. 

I believe I have culled the best from among 
the large number of hybrid perpetuals now in 
the catalogues, both for exhibition and also for 
the garden. 

Soil and climate has an effect upon Roses, as 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 




138 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[May 26, 1883 


well as all other things, and for that reason I 
have given a longer list than some may think 
necessary. But the hybrid perpetuals are the 
most useful section of the family, and in dealing 
with the other branches I will be more moderate 
in my desires. 

Perpetual Mo^s Roses .—James Y 7 eitcb, Madame 
Moreau, Blanche Moreau, Mrs. \V. Paul, Soupert 
et Notting, Perpetual White, Salet. 

High feeding and close winter pruning are 
among the necessary requirements of Moss 
Roses. 

Bourbon Roses. —Acidalie, Baronne Gonella, 
Emotion, Gloire de Rosamene, Louise Margottin, 
Queen of Bedders, Queen of Bourbons, Souvenir 
de la Malmaison. 

The Bourbons are very free and continuous 
bloomers. 

Tea and Noisette Roses .—Anna Olivier, Alba 
Rosea, Adam, Aline Sisley, Belle Lyonnaise, 
Bouquetd'Or, Catherine Mermet, Celine Forestier, 
Comtesse de Nadaillac, Comte de Paris, Caroline 
Kuster, Devoniensis, Gloire de Dijon, Homere, 
Innocente Pirola, Isabella Sprunt, Jean Ducher, 
.Jean Pernet, Lamanjue, Marie Van Houtte, 
Mar 6 chal Niel, Madame Willermoz, Madame 
Falcot, Madame Lambard, Madame Margottin, 
Madame Berard, Madame de St. Joseph, Moire, 
Niphetos, Perle des Jardins, Perle de Lyon, 
President, Reve d’Or, Rubens, Souvenir d'un 
Ami, Souvenir d’Elise, Souvenir d’Paul Neron, 
Safrano. 

China Roses .—These are not numerous, but 
several of them, including the common old blush 
or pink and the crimson are good for bedding, 
as they will flower in a sheltered situation pretty 
well all the year round. Louis Phillipe, Ducher, 
Fabvier, and Mrs. Bosanquet are useful for bed¬ 
ding or planting in masses anywhere. The old 
Pink China, for instance, in a large mass, never 
seems out of place anywhere. The Fairy Roses 
belong to this section. 

Summer Roses .— The Provence or Cabbage 
Rose, with its large, fragrant, rose-coloured 
flowers, has been got rid of in many gardens, to 
the great regret of those who have so unwisely 
discarded au old friend. The old white Pro¬ 
vence is a very beautiful Rose, especially in the 
bud state. A neighbour, with an old-fashioned 
garden, has some rare wide-spreading bushes of 
it. The old York and Lancaster Rose is very 
scarce now. I only know one garden in my 
neighbourhood possessing it in any abundance. 
Apart from the legend woven around the name 
of this old Rose, it is a desirable variety to pos¬ 
sess for the sake of its sweet, striped flowers. 
Among Roses which only blossom in summer, 
the Moss Rose deservedly holds a high place. 
In the bud state they are most beautiful, and 
quite a long list are catalogued now running 
through many shades of colour, from the pure 
white of the White Bath to the rosy pink of the 
common sweet-scented Moss, which is so largely 
sold in the streets. Angelique Quetier, Celina, 
Crested, Little Gem, Marie de Blois, and Heine 
Blanche, are the cream of the Moss Roses. 
Among summer Roses the Austrian Briers (Rosa 
lutea) form a distinct though a limited class, 
which in the bud state are most beautiful. These 
should not be pruned very close unless the wood 
is weakly, as the blossoms are produced from 
well ripened wood only, and if pruned hard 
back the best flowers are cut away. Like all 
the summer (and indeed all other Roses for that 
matter), liberal treatment is necessary to pro¬ 
duce fine blossoms. 

Climbing Roses .—These comprise the Bour- 
sault—Amadis, De Lisle, and Gracilis; the Ayr¬ 
shire—which includes the Dundee Rambler, 
Queen of the Belgians, Ayrshire Queen, and 
Splendens. The evergreen Roses are excellent 
for covering quickly walls and buildings, or 
training over arches or up pillars. x\delaide 
D’Orleans, Felicite Perpetuelle, Leopoldine 
D’Orleans, Princess Louise, Rampant, and Reine 
des Francaises, are the best and most useful 
kinds. The Banksian Roses are beautiful in 
spring and early summer on a wall, but require 
a dry, warm, sheltered place. The young shoots 
should be trained thinly, and not shortened 
much, in fact all the wall or climbing Roses 
should be pruned long, i e ., the weakly shoots to 
be well thinned out, and the main branches only 
to have the soft unripe points removed. But to 
cover a wall with really handsome Roses I 
should recommend the fast growing Teas and 
Noisettes, such as Marechai Niel, Gloire de i 


Dijon, Souvenir d’un Ami, William Allen 
Richardson, Jaune Desprez, Triumph de Reimes, 
Celine Forestier, Lamarque, Cheshunt Hybrid, 
Climbing Devoniensis, Bouquet d’Or, he. Jaune 
Desprez I strongly recommend. It is a rapid 
grower, and blooms continuously, and the fawn 
coloured buds are so sweet and nice for cutting. 
The plant, too, is longer lived than many of our 
Roses are. More than twenty-five years ago a 
little plant was set against a cottage in Nor¬ 
folk. It is now a grand old plant, producing 
annually thousands of flowers. It is true 
it is not met with on the exhibition table, 
but what of that ? We are not all exhibitors, 
and those who simply want a Rose to cover the 
gable-end of the house, and to be continually 
laden with buds and blossoms, may safely plant 
it alongside of Gloire de Dijon. Several of the 
Hybrid Chinas are well adapted for clothing 
walls and pillars ; Vivid, Catherine Bell, Princess 
Louisa Victoria, Selina (an American Rose), 
Fulgens, and Madame Plantier, are the cream of 
them. The Japanese have their Roses, though it 
is only within the last few years that they have 
been brought into notice. Paquerette, a dwarf 
cluster Rose from Japan, is very pretty, and 
Simplex, a new single Rose from the same in¬ 
teresting country, will probably be sought after 
by' those who are smitten by the growing taste 
for single flowers. Then in the Rugosa section 
we have a class of very handsome single Roses, 
which everybody should grow, for both flowers 
and foliage are exceedingly chaste and beautiful, 
and after the flowers come the fruit, which are 
no mean ornament. There is yet one more little 
Rose I should like to notice, and that is the 
Alpine Rose, Rosa pyrenaica, also a single- 
flowered kind ; it should be planted on the 
rockery and allowed to spread. The fruits, 
which are large in proportion to the other parts 
of the plant, are very bright and showy. 

E. Hobday. 


Digitized b 


i Google 


Boses in town and suburban gar¬ 
dens.— One hears a good deal about Roses 
growing in one place so well, and refusing to 
grow by any kind of coaxing in another; but 
this kind of statement requires considerable 
modification, for after growing Roses in several 
different counties, and in the positions usually 
considered most favourable, and also the reverse, 
I can safely say that Roses can be grown any¬ 
where if the cultivator is really in earnest, and 
gives them the attention they require both to 
root and branch. The most favourable soil is a 
tolerably strong loam, fairly well enriched with 
rotten manure, and well drained. Avoid satura¬ 
tion and drought at the root. In this locality 
I have heard it said over and over again that 
Roses will not grow, and probably this is true 
as regards attaining any great age in the natural 
soil, for it is too light and easily affected by 
drought to keep Roses in health, unless special 
precautions are taken to preserve them. But 
amateurs may enjoy the Rose to perfection in 
their cool glasshouses at this time of year, even 
in the most ungenial of positions or climate. I 
lately saw some young plants of Gloire de Dijon, 
Dr. Andry, and other good old 6 orts that had 
been lifted early in the winter, potted in large 
pots of good soil, set in a light sunny con¬ 
servatory, and allowed to grow nearly without 
pruning at all, and finer or healthier bushes one 
could not have desired. Pot Roses are usually 
starved in too small pots and too poor soil; give 
them generous treatment, and they will amply 
repay you with fragrant blossoms. There are no 
secrets in their culture but that may be easily 
learnt by anyone willing to studiously pay 
attention to their requirements.— James Groom, 
Gosport. 

9720.— Marechai Niel Roses —It is com¬ 
monly supposed there are two kinds of Marechai 
Niel in commerce, one producing blooms straw- 
yellow in colour, and theother havingmuchricher 
coloured flowers. The notion is, no doubt, erro¬ 
neous, as it is highly improbable that two distinct 
kinds would still be so exactly alike in every 
feature except that of colour. Besides, soils, sea¬ 
sons, and the general conditions of the plants 
materially affects the colouring of the flowers, 
and it is just possible that where there is both 
ample light and heat the colour is much better 
than it is where these elements are imperfect. 
We generally see the richest colour in the 
Marechai in July, from naturally produced 
flowers, and that would thus indicate that both 


strong light and warmth are essentials to good 
coloration.—D. 

9723.—Gloire de Dijon Rose — It is vm 
probable that a tree planted some twelve yen? 
since needs renovation, either by being hare 
cut back and induced to break afresh and strong, 
or else pulled out, the border re-made, and young 
trees planted. Roses are such gross feeders that 
they soon exhaust the soil, unless kept well fed 
by means of strong manure. If it is determined 
to cut back the old plant, the top soil to the depth 
of 6 inches should be removed, and after adding 
some short manure, entirely fresh soil should be 
spread over the manure. If it is resolved to re¬ 
make the border and plant young trees, the 
new soil to the thickness of 12 inches should be 
added, and a liberal dressing of manure mixed 
with it.—D. 

9717.— Guano for Roses.— The best my 
to apply guano is to sow on the surface, choosing 
a moist time, and rake it in. Good Peruvian 
guano is certainly an excellent manure for Roses, 
and if the soil is at all impoverished, a good dres¬ 
sing of it should at once be given, as then ite 
rains will carry its nutritious properties down, 
so that the roots can utilise it by the time tie 
plants come into growth.—J. C., Bxjjlect. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


Pentas carnea.—This pretty evei w 

hothouse plant has never become so popular i 
it deserves to be, though it has been some for 
years in cultivation. When grown as its 
be it is remarkably handsome, robust, and v 


Peutaa carnea. 

ttoriferous. The flowers, produced in tei 
clusters,are a delicate flesh colour whenfii 
panded, but gradually deepen on exposure, 
the variety Kerinesina, which is the finest, tl 
flowers are of a uniform deep rose-pink, 
bright and pleasing. The plant itself is su< 
rapid grower that it will form a good sized b 
in one season from a cutting, and if kept d 
favourable conditions will continue to fl 
throughout the greater part of the year, 
grow it well it requires a rich soil, ample P 
room, and abundant waterings, with an < 
sional dose of manure water when in a 
growth. It may be grown in a moderately * 
greenhouse, but as it is a native of Wei 
Tropical Africa, it is most at home in a 1 
moist temperature ; though, of course, like simi¬ 
lar subjects, it will take no harm while in flowe- 
in a house having lower temperature. It is easily 
propagated by means of cuttings, which, if taker 
off the extremities of the young shoot* as so on 
as they have become firm, will strike root ins 
week or so if inserted in sand under a bell-gk” 
in heat. 

Plumbago capensis Few plants ire 
more effective for greenhouse walls or pillar* 
than this; and where it can be planted oat so 
as to allow of its getting strong, it product 
abundance of its lovely pale blue flowers for „ 
several months at a time. It should be gr own 
in pots until it has attained some strength, or j 
else the soil gets out of condition before soft- 
cient roots exist to take possession of it * or 
decoration in 6 -inch or 7-inch pots this Pip®’ 
bago is an excellent plant. The present is a 
good time to strike cuttings of it for this pur* 


NIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS A1 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Mat 26, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


139 


iose, as they will get nicely established before 

,utumn. 

Pelargonium Happy Thought.— This 
s so distinct as to merit a place in any collection, 
.nd appears especially suitable for window cul- 
ure, the variegation of the foliage being so well 
lefined as to render a plant in good health a very 
leasing object. It blooms, moreover, with much 
reedom, and the flowers exhibit a tint which is 
ather uncommon in this family of flowering 
ilants. Unlike the tricolor, it does not appear 
o be very subject to damping, and with ordinary 
.ire may be kept in good condition in a cool 
onse all the winter. Being compact of growth, 
t is an excellent kind for small beds, and may 
« used as an edging to other stronger growing 
inda—B yfleet. 

%m— Growing Ferns.— The question of 
eadng the house entirely depends upon the 
tods of Ferns which it is intended to grow. 
Ten- many beautiful Ferns, such as Todea 
upvrba and pellucida, the Killarney Fern, and 
aauyof the Filmy Ferns,also many fine Japanese 
nd other varieties, only need the protection of 
glass roof to thrive to perfection. We should, 
owever, much prefer to have the means of ex- 
luding frost,as then all the so-called greenhouse 
inds can be grown, thereby ensuring much 
reater variety. The situation cannot be turned 
3 a better use than for Fern culture, as where 
o sun comes it is useless to try to grow flower- 
ug plants. Filmy Ferns would be sure to do 
;ell, especially if planted out in a proper com- 
ost>—J. C. B. 

0702 .— Gardenia culture.— It is useless 
o attempt the culture of Gardenias unless they 
an be given a high temperature when growing 
nd blooming, and a constant warmth of 60 3 all 
he winter through. During the late spring and 
arly summer months, when making their 
[rowth, they should enjoy a day temperature of 
t least fi5°, running up some 10° to 15° on fine 
ays, never dropping below 60° at night. When 
oung growths push, the plants should be shifted 
; pot-bound, using good, fibrous loam and peat 
ft equal parts, and giving good drainage. Pot 
jrmly, water moderately until the roots have 
ikenfull possession of the soil, and are growing 
jeely, when liberal supplies must be given. The 
Aden rule in growing Gardenias is to afford 
lem plenty of moisture, both at the roots and 
the air, a dry atmosphere being fatal to them 
itil they have made their growth, when they 
lould have a rest in a cool house until Septem- 
!pr. Be careful to Bhade from hot sun.—J. C. B. 


TREATMENT OF IMPORTED ORCHIDS. 
9554.—At the outset it will be well to draw 
*cial attention to one or two popular errors 
garding the treatment of imported Orchids as 
ccived direct from their native habitats. 

The principal of these errors is the idea that all 
plants require to put them in good growing 
deristoget them potted or basketed at once, 
’d to give them liberal supplies of water and a 
gh temperature. The fallacy of this notion 
ill be at once perceived on comparing the 
•ants with the similar case (as regards func- 
ons) of a person in an emaciated and enervated 
ate,but just recovered from imminent starvation. 
ow, it is evident that the stomach of such a 
trson is too weak to digest anything except 
fly the lightest nourishment, and that only a 
ttle at a time ; if you allowed a full meal he 
ould e-pire under the effects. It is just so with 
ie Orel : d 3; no treatment is so fatal to newly 
itablishel plants as the above. The other 
astaken notion I would mention is that all 
,tchids frniu the same part of the world require 
oilar tuatment as to temperature and state 
‘ atmcspliere. The fact is, that different species 
®ro the same country differ greatly in their 
sguisite treatment, owing to their growing at 
Afferent elevations and in different sitnations. 
Jhc principal thing, then, to bear in mind is 
J* die plants must be brought round gently 
i gradually. First let them be spread out 
•flj in a genial temperature, in a somewhat 
,c a n<l decidedly moist atmosphere for a few 
In until the leaves get a little more plump. 
‘ n,) account sprinkle the plants, as they will 
' ie U P sufficient moisture from the atmosphere, 
1 j y this means the functions of the plants 

* 0 gently brought into operation. Thi 

• <«t be carefully shaded. Any lpoae c 

that may be about tBamjAion.t 


moved, and having improved a little in appear¬ 
ance, they may then be potted or basketed. They 
must be very sparingly and carefully watered 
until new root growth takes place, being careful 
not to wet the leaves, as this keeps the plants 
up without bringing the roots into action. If 
kindly treated as above, the plants, if received 
in fairly good condition, will soon revive and 
make new growth. The above remarks are in¬ 
tended in a general way, but as to details the 
different genera will, of course, differ somewhat. 
I will, therefore, mention a few of the more im¬ 
portant genera, excluding those belonging en¬ 
tirely to the old world. 

Cattleyas. —These are often received in apoor 
condition,but,if in a tolerably good state, are not at 
all difficult to establish. If, as from various causes 
sometimes happens, they have tried to make new 
growths during the voyage, these will, of course, 
be very weak,having been made in complete dark¬ 
ness. This is the worst state in which they can 
arrive, but if they are kept for a few days in a 
very shady place, giving gradually more light, 
and not in too warm or moist a place (an inter¬ 
mediate house or warm greenhouse will do best), 
you will soon see whether they will grow or 
damp off, as they perhaps will damp off if very 
weak. If, however, they have travelled during 
their natural season of rest— as all imported 
Orchids should do—they are one of the easiest 
genera to establish by treating as advised in the 
general remarks. They may be potted in a very 
light compost of sphagnum, fibrypeat,and plenty 
of crocks and charcoal, and avoid giving too 
much water till new roots form and growth com¬ 
mences. 

C<elogynes. —These are easy enough to estab¬ 
lish if kept in a rather cool place, and kept com¬ 
paratively dry till they start. They may be 
potted at once. As their pseudo-bulbs are larger 
than many others, they stand the voyage well. 

Cypripediums. —The more ordinary kinds do 
well treated as above, but choice kinds and deli- 
cate-habited ones require more care. Pot them 
first in nothing but Moss and crocks, adding 
peat and more Moss as the roots get into action 
and the plants get stronger. A moderate tem¬ 
perature suits many of them, with a fairly moist 
atmosphere, but some choicer kinds require 
rather more warmth. 

Dendrobi ums. —This large and valuable genus 
varies considerably as to the treatment of the 
different species, some of which do best on 
blocks, some in baskets, and others in pots. 
Several of them do well in a warm greenhouse 
temperature, but perhaps most of them require 
a warmer house, say a cool stove. Those for 
blocks may be put on at once, being fastened on 
witli fine wire, some living Moss being placed 
above the roots, and watered carefully at first 
till new roots form. The others may be treated 
as before advised, using plenty of Moss and 
crocks in the compost. They all require during 
the growing season a moist atmosphere. 

Lcelias. —The remarks on Cattleyas will apply 
to these ; some, however, will succeed on blocks 
and others in baskets. If received when at rest, 
they are quite easy to establish, but must not be 
unduly excited till they start. 

Lycastes. —These are easily managed ; they 
may be potted at once, and placed in a moderate 
warmth, giving water carefully until growth 
begins. 

Masdevalhas.— These are decidedly cool 
Orchids ; these and Odontoglossums requireabout 
the coolest temperature of all Orchids. They 
should be potted at once and placed in a cool 
house. When established, they must never want 
for water at any time. 

Odontoglossums. —All the species similar to 
0. Alexandra: may be treated as advised for the 
last section, using a light compost— Moss, peat, 
and crocks. These and the last section delight, 
in a cool but moist atmosphere; indeed, in our 
summers we sometimes have warmer weather 
than they like; still we must not go to the oppo¬ 
site extreme, but seek to maintain a tolerably 
equable temperature all the year round, for the 
cool section never have so decided a rest as the 
warmer ones, but should never be at all dry at any 
time. 

Oncidiums. —These may be treated as the last 
section, as most of them come from cool dis¬ 
tricts, but there are a few without pseudo-bulbs, 

L,i which require a warmer house. 

•V The above will suffice as instances, and any 


genera not mentioned will of course be treated 
eimilarly to those which they most nearly 
resemble. As a general rule, the cooler the 
parts in which the Orchids naturally grow, 
the more equable is the climate, being more or 
less moist all the year round, and the nearer we 
approach the tropics the more decidedly marked 
do we find the rainy and the dry seasons, and 
consequently the more decided must be the rest¬ 
ing of the plants under cultivation. These con¬ 
ditions are, however, a good deal modified by the 
situation in which the plants naturally grow, 
those coming from low-lying forests requiring 
different treatment from those found at high 
elevations. Some of them, again, grow in almost 
full exposure to the sun, while others are found 
on ledges of rock overhanging waterfalls where 
they catch the spray. It is therefore well, if 
possible, to ascertain in what conditions the 
various kinds are found growing, in order to in¬ 
sure success. No reference has been made to 
the bulbless section, such as Aerides and Vanda, 
as the above remarks are intended principally 
for kinds from Central America, as my own ex¬ 
perience has been chiefly confined to such. 

_ C. H. S. 

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 


Extracts from a Garden Diary—May 28 to 
June 2. 

Planting Scotch Kale, Cottager’s Kale, Brussels Sprouts, 
Savovs, and Autumn Cabbages; also May-sown Lettuce, 
Putting in cuttings of Anne Boleyn Pinks under hand- 
lights. Top-dressing pot Roses with horse manure and 
loam, mixed together in equal quantities. Cutting Laurels, 
and edging and lanking flower beds and borders. Stick- 
ink Scarlet Runners and Peas, and hoeing between rows 
of Parsley. Sowing Giant White Cos and All the Year 
Round Lettuce; also early white Naples Onions for 
drawing young. Looking over Peach and Nectarine 
trees, picking off curled leaves, and washing trees with 
the garden engine. Sowing Broad Beans amongst Cur¬ 
rant bushes. Planting Vegetable Marrows and Tomatoes. 
Layering Keen’s Seedling and Garibaldi Strawberries in 
4-inch pots. Putting in cuttingB of Kalosanthes, double 
Wallflowers, and Salvia splendens. Staking Heliotropes. 

Thinning riums, Peaches, and Nectarines where not 
already done, and nailing in the longest of the shoots. 
Sowing Chervil, Radishes, and Mustard and Cress. Thin¬ 
ning out and transplanting Parsley ; also Spinach and 
Turnips. Looking over Apricot trees for snails and grubs. 
Putting in cuttings of Begonias and other fine-foliaged 
plants. Thinning Onions and Turnips. Earthing nn 
Cucumbers. Clipping Yew trees, and weeding and hoe¬ 
ing old Asparagus beds. Washing Camellias, in order to 
free them from black fly. Sowing Turnips and Spinach. 
Planting out Sweet Basil on a south border. Thinning 
out late-*own Beet and Salsafy. Commencing clipping 
Box edgings. Putting Camellias and other greenhouse 
plants out under north walls. Nailing in leading shoots 
of Plum and Cherry trees, and washing them well with 
Quassia water to kill green fly. Earthing up late-planted 
Potatoes. 

Tying down the leaders of Cordon Apple trees. Getting 
out trenches for the late crops of Peas; alto trenches for 
Celery, aud getting the manure into them. Shifting 
latest struck Chrysanthemums into larger pots. Sowing 
Neapolitan and Drumhead Cabbage Lettuces ; also Paris 
Green and White Cos. Planting April-sown Cabbages 
and Cauliflowers; also Ice plants and Gourds. Pricking 
off seedling Primulas and placing them in a cool frame. 
Dusting soot and lime on Onion beds, with a view to 
keep down the maggot and improve the health of the 
plants. 

Glasshouses. 

A moist atmosphere and plenty of water at 
the roots, a moderately high temperature and 
shade are at present necessary for the produc¬ 
tion of well-developed young leaves and wood ; 
pinching shoots in order to induce a stubby 
growth, and tying in climbing plants should 
also be practised. Seedlings and cuttings re¬ 
quire potting now and again, an operation to 
which attention must be paid. Shading must 
now be used for greenhouses or conservatories, 
otherwise flowers will quickly shed their petals, 
and their colours will lose their brightness. All 
cool houses must be well ventilated, and even 
at night the sashes may be left a little open. 
Camellias and Azaleas that did not. flower till 
late in the spring will now be making active 
growth; they will be benefited by the application 
to the roots once a week of a little clear soot- 
water, say as much soot as can be held i n the 
hand to two gallons of water; this will assist 
the plants in makinggrowth.willgivethe foliage 
a healthy, dark, glossy green colour, and will 
also help to banish any worms that may have 
got into the pots. Those plants that make their 
growth late require more shading than the earlier 
ones. 

The latest flowered Azaleas should now be en¬ 
couraged to make growth by keeping the bouse 
or pit moist, with less air than the generality cf 
greenhouse plants reqniro.^AU except the email- 


140 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Mat 26, 18£3 


leaved varieties need little or no shade, save in 
the very hottest weather, and that for a few 
hours in the middle of the day. Where a house 
or pit can at this time of the year be devoted to 
them and such plants as Camellias that are 
making their growth, there is little difficulty in 
giving them the treatment they require; but 
where they have to be grown in a mixed green¬ 
house with the usual occupants, they should be 
placed at one end of the house, where the shading 
can be regulated as necessary, and the syringe 
freely used without wetting those subjects that 
do not need it, admitting the air that is wanted 
at the opposite end to where they are arranged. 
Large flowered Pelargoniums that were some 
time ago recommended to have the points of 
their shoots pinched out so as to induce their 
flowering after the earlier bloomers were over, 
should now have weak manure water given them 
twice a week. Fuchsias struck from cuttings in 
the spring and required to bloom late in the 
summer should again have the points of their 
shoots pinched out, and any flower-buds that 
may have formed pricked off; neither must 
they have their roots confined in too small pots, 
as this, more than any other cause, will stop 
their growth and induce them to form flowers 
sooner than they are required. The earlier plants 
that are now blooming should have all seed-pods 
picked off as soon as the flowers have dropped. 
Give them liquid manure every other time they 
are watered, but it must be in a highly-diluted 
state, as if given them so strong as many plants 
will bear it causes the flower-buds to drop off. A 
free use of the syringe two or three times a week 
will keep red spider in check. 

Flower Garden. 

Summer bedding. —All kinds of summer- 
beddiDg plants may now be planted with safety; 
of course the most tender should be left till all 
the hardier kinds are finished. Moreover, as few 
tender kinds should be used as circumstances 
admit of, for even our longest and most favour¬ 
able summers are far too short to repay the 
labour and anxiety connected with this branch 
of gardening; and, as we have no control over 
the seasons, it is only by a freer use of hardy 
plants that we can hope for a lengthened period 
of beauty. This is a busy time in all depart¬ 
ments of a garden, and in our anxiety to get 
over the work quickly, there is some danger of 
its being done carelessly, because hurriedly; an 
evil that will be avoided, if it is remembered 
that unless the soil be well firmed round the 
roots, they will be a long time in starting into 
growth, and will thus be the cause of far more 
anxiety than would have been tho case if treble 
the time had been expended in first planting 
them. Another certain way of contributing to 
expeditious effectiveness is, to mulch the beds as 
soon as planted with Cocoa-nut fibre. The 
labour of applying this is saved by there being 
less watering needed, and, what is of greater 
importance in most gardens, neatness is at once 
assured. The moment planting is done and the 
attendant litter cleared lip, those plants that 
require such attention should be tied to supports; 
groundwork plants should be pegged down, and 
the edgings—box and Grass—should be neatly 
trimmed. Where the mulching just recommended 
is not practicable, the next best substitute is to 
keep the surface soil wellstirred, and particularly 
after heavy rain. 

General work. —In showery weather com¬ 
plete the planting out of Alters, Stocks, Zinnias, 
Phlox Drummondi, and all other kinds of 
summer-flowering annuals and biennials. A good 
way to plant them is in shallow drills; by this 
means they are not only more easily watered, 
but the drills being levelled in as soon as the 
plants have got well established, form a mulching 
which is at once a protection from drought and 
a safeguard from injury through friction by 
wind. Of course this drill mode of planting is 
recommended on the supposition that beds of 
such plants are in request, as obviously the plan 
could not be adopted when they have to be 
planted out in clumps amongst Roses or in mixed 
flower borders; even then, however, deeper 
planting than is usual will be found to be advan¬ 
tageous. Clip Box, Ivy, Euonymus, and other 
shrub edgings; and Grass verges and edgings 
ought to be cut once a week. In dry weatiier 
hoe amongst shrubs, and keep recently planted 
ones thickly muIcRe^. Weed th& rookery and 
hardy Fernery; rbucli Cbmaj and I thft common 
-at this Fern?’, 


as do also the stronger-growing rock plants their 
less robust neighbours, unless timely curtail¬ 
ment of growth be practised. Seed-stems should 
be cut off Arabia, Saxifrages, Myosotis, and any 
others that have done flowering. Lilacs also 
should have their old flowers cut off and be 
pruned into shape before they make new growth. 
Rhododendrons and Azaleas ought likewise to 
be cleared of their old flowers, both for the sake 
of neatness and also for the welfare of the 
plants. 

Roses. —Those possessing even small collec¬ 
tions of outdoor Hoses, if they have through the 
spring taken means to destroy aphides and the 
Rose maggot, will reap the benefit of the com¬ 
paratively little labour required by a good 
display of early flowers : whereas in the absence 
of such attention, the whole of the growth, both 1 
leaves, shoots, and flowers, is so smothered with 
these insects as to prevent the possibility of 
well-developed bloom. Where Roses have been 
neglected, unless immediate means are taken to 
destroy the aphides now existing, and also the 
broods of those that will come successionally 
into life, it is futile to expect a satisfactory 
autumn bloom. In the cultivation of Roses, 
more than most plants, those who give the re¬ 
quisite attention to even a moderate number 
realise very much more pleasure from the results 
of their labour than where a greater quantity 
are giown, yet do not receive sufficient attention 
at the critical time when the young growth is 
beset by these pests, which are inseparable from 
the cultivation of Roses. 

Fruit. 

Melons. —When the fruit in the early house 
has attained its full size, feeding must be dis¬ 
continued ; but watering with pure water to pre¬ 
vent the plants from suffering may go on until 
the Melons change for ripening, when a dry, 
warm atmosphere, with a constant circulation of 
air, will greatly improve the flavour of the fruit. 
If the pot system of growing throughout the 
season is adopted, the young plants intended to 
succeed tho first batch must be kept constantly 
growing until they get established in the fruiting 
pots, otherwise they will become infested with 
spider, and most likely lose their stem-leaves 
long before the fruit is ready to draw upon their 
valuable assistance. One of the great advantages 
derived from pot culture is the facility which it 
offers for overlapping the succeeding sets of 
plants, as the latter, established in fruiting pots, 
and 2 feet to Ifeet high, can be moved from the 
succession to the fruiting house with safety, 
when, bottom-heat and all other conditions being 
favourable, they will commence throwing out 
female blossoms by the time the last fruit of the 
preceding crop has been used. Hants now 
swelling off fruit must be well fed and syringed 
every afternoon, and they must be closely 
divested of all lateral growths as they appear. 
Support the Melons before they begin by their 
weight to strain the stems. Pay great attention 
to the old foliage, which should now be as firm 
as a board, and carefully sponge for the 
destruction of insects, as Melons are so easily 
checked and ruined by the use of insecticides. 
Never neglect plants in pits and frames, as the 
loss of a single day may lead to the loss of a fine 
set of fruit. Keep the laterals thin and well up 
to the light, fertillise every llow r er when the 
atmosphere of the frame is dry, renovate linings 
back and front alternately, and follow up 
covering with mats at night. 

Vines.— The thinniDg of late Grapes should 
not be deferred a moment after they are ready, 
as growth goes on so rapidly that they soon get 
too large to admit of expeditious or neat thin¬ 
ning. The lateral growths on Lady Downes are 
now produced so rapidly, that unless repressed 
by stopping once a week, they become a com¬ 
plete thicket, and when cut off a check to the 
Vines must necessarily be the result, and as a 
matter of course the crop is more or less injured. 
Houses in which the Grapes are commencing 
their second swelling should be shut up very 
early with an atmosphere well charged with 
moisture, and if the borders arc inside, well 
soak them with manure water, and as this 
should be the last application of manure, it may 
be applied rather stronger than heretofore. 
Houses containing ripe fruit should be kept as 
cool as possible compatible with the preservation 
and health of the foliage. All lateral growth 
should be persistently stopped, but the leading 


shoot on each Vine should tc allowed to ramble 
at will. 

Hardy' fruit. —Apricots are often much in¬ 
fested with a small caterpillar that eats the 
leaves, and this, if allowed to go unchecked, 
does serious harm, rolling itself up much in the 
same way as the Rose maggot; it is, however, 
easily detected. The trees should be gone over 
as soon as it makes its appearance, and the 
invader crushed with the finger and thumb. If 
the fruit has not been sufficiently thinned, at 
once remove more, not allowing a greater quan¬ 
tity to remain than the trees can support ard 
mature thoroughly, otherwise the produce will 
be small and comparatively flavourless. &ee 
that no trace of aphides has been left on Reaches 
and Nectarines, or they will still spread and 
inflict serious damage. As regards thinning, 
the remarks made respecting Apricots apply to 
these trees also. Let the strength of each indi¬ 
vidual tree be taken into consideration, such as 
are strong and vigorous being naturally able to 
support a greater weight of fruit than ot hers in a 
weaker condition, although the latter generally 
set the greatest quantity. Over-cropping not 
only gives inferior produce, but permanently 
injures the trees if continued for a few years. 
Watch closely for mildew ; if it makes its appear¬ 
ance on the leaves or points of the shoot* 
it will quickly attack the fruit. As soon 
as a trace of it is found the affected pam 
must be dusted freely with sulphur. If the 
weather comes dry, and the border in which 
these are grown is cropped with anything 
else, such, for instance, as Strawberries or 
summer vegetables, it should not be forgotlea 
that the latter materially assist in extracting 
the moisture from the soil, and necessitate the 
application of more water, which must be gir»n 
without stint. Before it is applied in quantin' j 
the surface should be stirred with a fork or bee • 
to a depth of 2 inches to admit of its getting 
down to the roots. In dry situations, where 
water has to be given, it is often necessary to 
repeat this loosening process, as the soil get* 
baked on the surface and causes t he water to rot 
off. Cherries and Plums are also very sub¬ 
ject to caterpillars, and when they appear hi 
numbers they do much harm, not only dte- 
figuringtheleaves, but absolutely injure the trees. 
There are no means of destroying them, eicrpt 
going over such as are affected and crushing 
them. This should always be done as won 
as they are discovered, as the longer they 
are allowed to remain the more difficulty there 
is in their destruction. Cherries are also subject 
at this time of the year to the attacks of black 
fly on the young shoots. If this pest be taken 
in time, before they have become dispersed over 
the trees, and while confined to a few of the 
shoots, they may easily be destroyed by dipping j 
those that are affected in Tobacco water. For 
this aphis it must be strong, as it is much mtae 1 
difficult to kill than the green species. 

Vegetables. 

Parsnips, Early Carrots, Turnips, Leeks, arf . 
Onions are some of the seedlings that now need 
thinning, after which, deeply stir the soil be¬ 
tween the rows to induce a quicker and mw? j 
vigorous growth. Peas suffer from over seediig 
as much as anything. When the hanlms ar? 

2 inches or 3 inches apart they bear pods to the 
very bottom, which obviously would not be the 
case were they clustered together. Earth up and 
stake such as need support, and sow for suc¬ 
cession such kinds as British Queen, Yeitchi 
Perfection, and Champion of England. If sowu 
in shallow trenches, waterings and mulching: 
(both requisite in warm dry weather) will be xh 
more effectual. The principal crop of Rnnne 
Beans should now be sown ; 6 inches apart ii 
the row will be quite near enough for these, an 
if the points be pinched out when 2 feet higi 
that will ensure the production of pods from tfc 
very bottom of the haulm. Earth up Potatoe 
If high culture be aimed at, strew between ti 
rows guano or soot; stir deeply with a fori 
and, after a good rain, earth up. The haul! , 
should be thinned out to single or, at mos , 
double shoot*, and then, though the tubers ms ? 
not be quite so numerous, they will be finer &r IJ 
of a more equable size. Top Broad Bean 31 , 1 

order to induce eflHiei formation of pods, ai !• 
to prevent an attack bf black aphis, which i i 
variably takes possession of the tops of the?=»? 
tvhenovor tho favourable to thef 



Mat 26, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILL USTRA1 ED 


141 


development. Unless Broad Beans be in special 
request, no more should be sown, as at the time 
when they would be ready there will be abun¬ 
dance of better vegetables. As ground becomes 
vacant., prepare and re-crop it with Coleworts, 
Cauliflowers, Early Broccoli, .Brussels Sprouts, 
and Savoys ; the two latter will stand the 
severest winter, and should therefore be planted 
in quantity. Early Broccoli and Cauliflowers 
continue in use a limited time only, so these 
should be planted successionaily, and only in 
such numbers as will meet the demand. Estab¬ 
lished plantations of Horseradish, Seakale, and 
Rhubarb that are throwing up flower stems 
should have them cut off, and the ground receive 
its summer mulching of manure. Weeds may be 
kept down on Asparagus plots, and at the same 
time the roots benefited by an occasionai light 
sprinkling of salt. Sow Lettuce where it is to 
stand, and thin out the plants to 9 inches apart. 
Tomatoes, ridge Cucumbers, and plants of 
similar hardiness may now be planted. During 
favourable weather keep the hoes going, in order 
to keep down weeds, wi. ..u, now that rain has 
come, will grow apace. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 
Planting the flower garden.— Summer 
weather, though long delayed, seems to have 
come at last; the recent showers followed by 
strong sunshine have induced most things to 
start into growth, and by the time this reaches 
the readers of Gardening, it will be getting 
time, particularly if the present genial weather 
continues, to think about putting out bedding 
and other plants in fairly favourable situations. 
The beds are of course quite ready for their 
occupants by this time, and nothing remains but 
to fill them with whatever plants are at hand or 
can be obtained, taking care that these have all 
been thoroughly hardened. If possible, showery 
or at least cloudy weather should be chosen for 
the planting ont process, especially if the plants 
are taken from boxes, and not from single pots, 
as is now so frequently the case. If the ground 
is at all wet, care must be taken not to trample 
it much, or it will soon get into a most unpleasant 
and unwholesome state. It is, therefore, much 
better to make use of a board, both upon the bed 
itself, and also upon the surrounding turf, if, as 
is frequently the case, the border or bed is thus 
bounded. 

The simplest and best way to arrange the de¬ 
sign of the bed is to draw with a pointed piece of 
stick the lines for the various kinds of plants as 
evenly and regularly as possible, and then space the 
plants ont at Tegular intervals along these lines. 
In all cases it is necessary to be very particular 
with regard to the height and habit of the diffe¬ 
rent plants, and to arrange them regularly in this 
respect from the centre, or back of the bed, out¬ 
wards ; the highest growers being of course placed 
behind, and the dwarfer kinds in front. Thus 
bronze or golden bicolor Geraniums must always 
be placed behind the silver edged varieties, as 
the latter do not grow nearly so strongly as the 
former; again, Pyrethrums should always be 
placed behind Lobelias if these two are employed 
in conjunction, not in front, as is sometimes 
seen, and so on. But after all, bright and beau¬ 
tiful as a neatly well arranged and well planted 
bed is under the ribbon or carpet system, yet a 
much more pleasing effect is often attained by a 
more irregular style of planting; and if well and 
artistically disposed, just a dozen or two each of 
Geraniums, Calceolarias, Cannas, Fuchsias, 
Amarantns, Lobelias, etc., will form a more 
lieautiful bed than the usual stiff rows of uniform 
colours generally seen. Remember that Gera¬ 
niums, Verbenas, Petunias, Lobelias, and indeed 
most bedding-out plants,including Stocks, Asters, 
etc. (which by the way should be set out as soon 
aa possible now), need full exposure to the sun 
to develop their beauty, while Fuchsias, Calceo¬ 
larias, Pansies, and a few others succeed best in 
a partially shaded posit ion. In all cases begin 
with planting well hardened scarlet and other 
Geraniums, Calceolarias, Petunias, Verbenas, 
etc., leaving Perillas, Amarantuses, Cannas, 
Hicinuses, and other more tender subjects till 
early next month. 

When planting a garden of any pretensions, 
do not omit to introduce a few Abntilons. The 
v aloe of these for planting ont is not yet nearly 
sufficiently known. If put into some good, rich 
soil, and well supplied with water, many of the 
A -butilon§ grow very quicklyfattd ®oon form 4x- 

Digitized by VjOuQ IC 


ceedingly handsome objects, both as regards 
foliage and flowers. A. Boule de Neige is very 
useful in this respect, and its white flowers are 
always acceptable, but perhaps the old A. Due 
de Malakoff makes the handsomest plant of 
any, its elegant Palm-like foliage soon attaining 
a great size and richness. At least one or two 
plants of Nicotiana aflinis should find a place in 
every garden. Thesegrowrapidly andflower freely 
in any soil, and their long, tube-shaped, pure 
white flowers are universally admired. The 
scent is also very highly diffusive, particularly 
on a warm evening, and even a single plant can 
be noticed at a great distance by its perfume. 

Window doxes and balconies may now be 
filled with nice, sturdy plants in 5-inch or 
6-inch pots, of Geraniums, Fuchsias, Pelar¬ 
goniums, Petunias, and other showy subjects: 
there will now be little fear of these taking any 
harm, particularly if facing south, or nearly so, 
or in any way protected from east winds. A few 
climbing plants, either in large pots (6-inch or 
9-inch) or planted in good-sired boxes, with or 
without other kinds of plants, add a very grace¬ 
ful effect to such positions as these. Among the 
most useful are the Canary Creeper, with its 
myriads of bright yellow, bird-like flowers; 
Maurandyas, with their elegant foliage, slender 
growth, and pretty purple orrpsy blooms; Lopho- 
spermum scandens, which has small, Gloxinia¬ 
like flowers of a rosy-purple colour; Thunbergias, 
which produce a multitude of nearly round, 
striking flowers, white, buff, or orange, some 
with deep, purple-black centres or eyes, which 
gives them quite a unique appearance. Many of 
the Ipomasas or tropical Convolvuluses are also 
very beautiful, having immense blooms of the 
richest colour, far surpassing the still generally 
admired Morning Glory. These all grow well 
in towns, and attain a flowering state very 
quickly. Clematises, of which there is now so 
great a variety, are of a more lasting character 
than these annual or tenderclimbers, but then it 
takes two or three years for a Clematis to attain 
a full flowering size. 

Greenhouses. —Shade of some kind is now 
an absolute necessity for most greenhouse or 
stove plants. Give abundance of moisture all 
over the house on the mornings of hot days, 
and by constant attention to cleanliness and 
watering, Ac., keep all plants in a healthy, 
growing condition. B. C. R. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


EARLY LILIES. 

I.ii.iUM Davuricum is one of the earliest and 
showiest of Lilies, but the typical form of it 
is far from common; there are, however, many 
fine varieties of it, which, from their early 



Lilium miibelLitiim. 


flowering properties, cheapness, and the success 
with which their culture is attended, whether 
planted out or in pots, are grown extensively in 
many gardens. The variety here figured (umbel- 
latum) bears on a single stem a large head of 
blossoms of a bright red colour, shaded in the centre 
with orange. Besides the above there are others, 
all of which differ from the type either in habit or 
colour. Thus in incomparabile the blossoms are 
rich velvety crimson; in fulgidnm or Sappho 
they are equally rich, but of a lighter and more 
glowing tint, while in erectum they resemble 


umbellatum, except that they are individually 
more cup-shaped, and form a more compact 
head. In all of the above the interior of the 
flowers is more or less marked with black dots, 
but in immaculatum, deep reddish orange in 
colour, the spots are entirely absent. These 
varieties are all of easy culture, and thoroughly 
capable of withstanding severe frosts, provided 
they are in well drained soil, but in low, wet 
places they are liable to rot. In planting, the 
common error should be avoided of placing the 
bulbs too near the surface, a depth of from four 
inches to six inches, according to the nature of 
the soil, beiDg the most suitable. 

Within the last few years, these varieties have 
been largely brought, during the season, into 
Covent Garden Market, where they meet wfith a 
ready sale. They possess one great advantage 
over the later flowering kinds, inasmuch as they 
are ip full bloom during what is termed the 
London season, while L. speciosum unfolds its 
blossoms when the demand for Lilies is to some 
extent over. The bulbs of the different varie¬ 
ties of davuricum are largely imported from 
Holland, and should be potted as soon as re¬ 
ceived in good, sandy loam, lightened, if too 
heavy, by the addition of a little leaf-mould or 
decayed manure. One bulb may be put in a 
fi-inch pot, or several together in a large one, so 
as to form a mass, but in general potting singly 
is to be preferred. Place the bulbs at a sufficient 
depth to be able to cover them with at least 
1 inch of soil. This done, set them out-of-doors 
in a sheltered position, and cover the pots with 
Cocoanut-fibre, leaf-mould, or some such material, 
removing it when all danger from severe frost 
is over; but the plants themselves may be allowed 
to stand out-of-doors till they bloom. The only 
attention they will need is keeping them well 
wai ered. Of course, if a part of them be wintered 
in a frame, and kept therein till flowering time, 
they may be had in bloom earlier, and under 
this system of management a succession will be 
kept up. Another way of wintering them is to 
lay them in beds of Cocoa-nut fibre, and pot 
them as they start into growth in spring, but 
although they will flower well the first season, 
the bulbs suffer much more severely than when 
treated as just described. The latter method 
will, however, do for market growers, who only 
flower them one season and then throw them 
away. The bulbs should, however, be planted 
ont after flowering, as they will in many cases 
bloom again the next season, and the majority 
the year after that. II. P. 


OLD-FASHIONED AURICULAS. 

The white and self coloured kinds of Auricula 
species alluded to by “ A Reader of Gardening," 
arc doubtless Primula viscoea, intermedia, and 
nivalis, the latter pure white If not these, I 
am unable to enlighten him, as the latter kind, 
nivalis, is almost the only pure white we find in 
the Alpine family. There is no known alpina, 
but all the auricula section of the Primula 
family are classed as Alpines, to distinguish their 
habitat. Very few of these kinds would prove 
effective as border varieties in the south, where 
they would burn up in the summer, but in the 
north we know they do well. It is not to be 
assumed that because certain hardy plants do 
well in one place, therefore they will do as 
well in another. The paucity of Auriculas in 
the open ground in England especially is more 
due to the difficulty of inducing them to thrive 
than to any other cause. This remark applies, 
however, more to species than to varieties, as wo 
find the stronger growing border varieties—sort 
of hybrids between the Alpines and show kinds— 
to do fairly well in holding soils. I have now in 
bloom a fine lot of plants, growing in a very 
stiff clay soil, that have stood the winter ad¬ 
mirably. The great support is found in the 
summer in the fact that the roots can go deep 
into a cool subsoil, and thus keep up life when 
shallow roots would all be killed by the heat. 
The original species, from which our show 
varieties are assumed to have descended, is 
Primula auricula, a yellow-flowered variety, 
having somewhat mealed leafage. This is some¬ 
times seen in pots, but rarely in borders. Still, 
it may be very abundant in the north, where, 
doubtless, it will do very well. The chief draw¬ 
back to the general use of Auriculas as border 
plants, even if ever so bardy, is found in their 
unstable flower-stalks and drooping heads of 
bloom. There are no kinds that havs better 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




142 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Mat 26, 1883. 


blooming habits than have the beautiful Alpines 
of the florist, but these would not thrive in the 
open ground, for the singularly perfect and most 
beautiful flowers seen on them are only allied to 
a somewhat tender or refined habit. Even in 
pots and frames the plants are slow growers, 
and in the open border they would not exist. 
Some of the most showy of border kinds are 
found in the new laced section of the Alpines, 
the stronger forms of which, having large and 
very striking flowers, are not sufficiently refined 
for show purposes, but make capital border 
plants. The more perfect the lacing and clearly 
defined all the properties of any flower, the more 
does the plant prodacing it exhibit refined habit 
of growth; also, hence the nearer we get to 
really perfect flowers, the farther are we re¬ 
moved from the robust habit essential to border 
kinds. But it must not therefore be assumed 
that the florist, in his work of selection and re¬ 
fining, is doing anything to deteriorate the Auri¬ 
cula. We may take it for granted, as beyond all 
argument, that the show section is totally unfit 
for other than pot culture, seeing that exposure 
to the rain, wind, and frost would spoil all their 
marvellous beauties in a short time ; therefore, 
the show section would soon die out altogether 
did not the patient florists—all honour to them 
—keep the perhaps most perfect flowers in culti¬ 
vation still alive and in beauty. With the 
Alpine section the case is different, for the gold 
centres of these are glorious in the open ground 
if the plants will but live. Still, a batch of seed¬ 
lings may give but a dozen good enough for pot 
culture and a hundred good robust plants for 
the border—the garden is, therefore, no loser. 
It is to be deplored that, in praising their 
favourite garden kinds, so many persons should 
think it is necessary to throw ridicule upon the 
products of the earnest and patient florists.— 
A. D. 


Plantain Lilies (Funklas).—I was glad 
to see favourable mention of these plants in a 
recent number of Gardening, for in my opinion 
there are but few fine-foliaged plants, even 
among the tender section of bedders, that excel 
in effectiveness several of the varieties of Funkia. 
No wonder, therefore, that when a few years ago 
foliage summer bedding came into vogue they 
were in request, but not nearly to that extent 
which their easy culture, hardiness, and general 
adaptability to foliage gardening would warrant 
—recommendations that will be confirmed by 
all who have seen the magnificent bed of the 
variety Sieboldi in Hyde Park during the past 
two or three summers, or the marginal lines of 
the same in Battersea Park. Siebolbi and Sie¬ 
boldi variegata are the strongest growers, and 
are the best kinds for forming large clumps or 
beds. The varieties albo-marginata, ovata 
elegans. and subcordata are excellent for edging 
beds of tall sub-tropicals, and for planting, 
either singly or in groups of three, in mixed her¬ 
baceous borders. All the kinds are readily pro¬ 
pagated by division in early spring, and should 
be planted in deeply trenched and well manured 
soil. Annual transplanting should never be 
thought of, for their full beauty, both as to foli¬ 
age and flowers, iB not developed for at least a 
couple of years after planting.— H. 

Dielytra, or Dicentra spectabilis-— 
This lovely plant is now in full beauty in the 
sheltered nooks and corners of shrubbery bor¬ 
ders, where it is quite at home along with 
Solomon’s Seal, Honesty, and similar plants, 
and, like them, it is effective only in clumps or 
groups of several yards square. As it com¬ 
mences to grow very early, and is liable to suffer 
from spring frosts, or more especially cold winds, 
we select sheltered recesses where large trees or 
overhanging shrubs afford it shelter, and plant 
strong roots of it about 2 feet apart, digging 
out. large holes, and if the soil is poor, filling 
them with good fiesh soil and manure. We find 
February a good month in which to transplant, 
as the crowns are then just beginning to grow, 
and even the smallest piece will make a plant. 
Any broken off in the process of removal are 
planted in nursery beds, where they make good 
plants for potting.—J. 

Forget-me-nots in Grass.— One of the 
most effective plants on the Grass margins here 
at present is the Forget-me-not. It seems to 
thrive uncommonly well among the Grass, and 
the situation seems more natural to it than any 
other. Having a large quantity last autumn from 


a large quantity last aut 

Google 


seed sown outdoors, some thousands of plants 
were stuck in up and down the grounds, and they 
have been in flower for a long while, and are just 
now coming to their best. They are most effective, 
for the blue of the Forget-me-not beats, I think, 
all other blues. It should be dibbled in thickly. M. 
sylvatica sows itself in the borders here, but it 
remains to be seen if it will do so in the Grass; I 
hope it will. Tulips of many colours are gro wing 
up through it, and Primroses and other things, 
forthe latter, especially the wild one, are in bloom 
yet, and it is early for us. I mean trying the 
Arabia and Iberis corifolia along with the Myo- 
sotis, Ac., and have little doubt they will do well. 
—J. S., YorU. 

Deutzia graoilis as a wall plant.— In 

very few places have I seen this plant trained 
on walls, but so treated it is, nevertheless, very 
beautiful. It is sufficiently hardy thus placed 
to stand any kind of winters; but as at) open 
air bush its beauty is sometimes impaired by the 
bitter winds of spring. On walls it is even more 
lovely than when grown in pots ; and in good 
soil it makes shoots quite a yard in length, and 
which, when in bloom, are perfect wreaths of 
snowy blossoms. For low walls, or for covering 
bare spaces at the base of high ones, I do not 
know a better plant than this Deutzia.— G. 

Indian Azalea* planted out.— Anyone 
having a few spare plants of Indian Azaleas 
should lose no time in planting them out in a 
bed consisting of peat, sandy loam, and leaf- 
mould, in a sheltered position. Any of the 
strong-growing varieties, and specially the old 
white, called Miller’s White, so largely used for 
forcing some years ago, or the small semi-double 
pink amoena, are excellent for the purpose. 
When planting, be careful to make the fresh 
soil very firm about the roots, and water freely 
until the plants get well rooted. Under the 
shade of their branches plant Cyclamens and 
Dog's-tooth Violets, and edge the bed with some 
hardy permanent plant that looks well at all 
times, such as some of the Saxifrages, Sedums, 
or the dwarf Phloxes, such as P. verna or subu¬ 
late. Beds of this kind yield a large amount of 
interest, and entail but a small amount of labour. 
—J. 

Beautiful Pansies.— As I take a great 
interest, in Pansies, I forward you a few blooms 
for inspection. They are seedlings from seed 
saved by myself from the best named fancies. 
They are growing in 4|-inch pots in a cold 
frame, and have been watered entirely with 
plain water, and no liquid manure of any kind. 
Several flowers I have measured are from 21 
inches to 2$ inches across, and some of the 
colours appear to me to be very striking and 
beautiful. I shall be glad to have your opinion. 
— R. W. Beachey ( 1luder, Klngtkrrtnt'll. Devon. 
[The blooms sent were really charming, the 
colours being very rich and uncommon. Many of 
the blooms, too, were delightfully scented. While 
such a variety of flowers can be had from a 
packet of seed, there is little need to be troubled 
with cuttings and puzzling names.— Ed.] 

Gentianella from seed— After years of 
trying I have succeeded in raising two pans full 
of plants from seed. I grew the seed myself, 
picked it when dead ripe and sowed it in shal¬ 
low' pans of Cocoanut-fibre. |It came up after 
some months—six I should think—in a green¬ 
house without heat, and the little plants have 
now four leaves each. They are very slow t hings, 
but then they last for ever, so there is no need 
to hurry. I am now pricking them off an inch 
and a half apart into pots; the roots are very long 
— 3 inches or more, and need care to set them 
deep enough, but they are very tough and easily 
handled. It is, I suppose, the reason for their dislike 
of being meddled with that they strike so deep. 
I have seen them in the Alps in fine light soil, 
but I expect the roots were down feet below the 
surface among the rocks. Their habitat shows 
their liking: give them rest, drainage, fibrous 
mould pressed tight, sun, showers, and sometimes 
a deluge, with protection from great cold, and 
they will do ; but have long patience with them, 
fix upon a spot where they are to grow, and leave 
them alone. I find it suits them well to have a 
little Cocoa refuse powdered over them, just as 
in the Alps they get drifted earth and sand blown 
on them. They are the earliest flowers, and worth 
a good deal of trouble.—E. A. S. 

European Sandwort (Arenaria bale- 
arica).—It is impossible to praise too highly the 


beauty of this Sandwort, with its little stem 
flowers and growth, which is more compact tliai 
that of Thyme—more compact, in fact, thaa 
many Mosses. Its way is to grow almost any¬ 
where it is planted, and to spread over roeb. 
rooting on them as a Moss would, whether thev 
are dry or moist, but preferring those that ait 
moist and somewhat shady. For weeks past it 
has been charming to see it in rock gardens c; 
rock ferneries, or in any similar elevate! 
position, where it has the chance oi running 
about.—R. 

9677.—Primroses and Polyanthuses 
—When the roots of these appear to come out o! 
the ground, it is a sure sign the soil is unsuitable 
When properly treated, the crowns remain below 
the ground level. Another sign of unsuitabk 
soil is the formation of a thick tap-root. When 
they are rightly treated a wig of roots sun> 
from immediately below the springing point oi 
the leaves, and spreads out equally all round; 
there is no leading or tap-root. Some Priam* 
plants I brought here, which had grown for 
three years in a suitable soil, and had to bt 
planted in an unsuitable one, began to send 
down a thick tap-root in the first year. The soil 
for Primroses should be a light rich loam, with¬ 
out the slightest tendency to clay. I found thee 
grow best in old Celery ground, and succeed 
with them as the soil approaches that text™ 
and mellowness. For manure I use nothing but 
leaf-mould from the woods and hedges, in: 
water when required with ditch or pend water 
Some of my larger plants have had from 60 u> 
160 flowers expanded at one time, and have 
been more or less in bloom since the beginning 
of March. Polyanthuses require the same treat 
ment, but will stand a richer, heavier soil, and • 
little more manure, which should, however, bs 
first rotted to powder. If “ W. H.” will folios 
this simple treatment he will be sure to succeed 
If the plants rise out of the ground, make the 
soil looser, finer in texture, and add more lei! 
mould; half an inch or so of that should be 
placed about the plants after the bloom is ora. 
and again in the autumn. If leaf-mould canes 
be had, peat soil will answer the same purpose 
—J. D. 

9746.— Dwarf Tropaeolum.—The mine; 
coccineum variety of the Dwarf Tropaolci.- 
is but a garden variety, and should never 
have received a distinctive botanical appellation, 
as it is misleading. One of the best kind. 1 cl 
this dwarf or compact-habited section o! ’he 
Nasturtium is called Bedfont Rival, a bright 
scarlet kind, and so named deceives noboiy. 
Seed should be sown thinly or gently dibbled ii 
singly where the plants are wanted to grow, « 
else be sown in a pan or in pots in a frame, and 
thence be transplanted into the open gioffid 
when they are strong. The plants are of a dwarf, 
bushy habit, and bloom freely for a long time. 
They should be planted about 10 inches ajar 
each way. Minor means little or dwarf, and tb-.- 
long appellation coccineum, in English, is scarlet 
—A. D. 

9690.—Mignonette falling. —The rats 
are in all probability eaten by wireworm, anl 
this is the reason why the leaves turn broxr. 
A good preventive is to dress the ground well 
with soot, well mixing it with the soil before 
sowing, and top-dressing with it as soon as the 
plants begin to grow. Lime is also much dis¬ 
liked by the pest, and, like soot, is an excellent 
manure. A good trap for wireworm consists oi 
pieces of Carrot inserted in the ground, which ii 
examined from time to time will be found to 
contain some of the wireworms, which can 
easily be destroyed.—J. C. B. 

9694.— Pampas Grass.—The foliage and 
decayed leaves should never be trimmed off before 
Spring, as they serve to protect the crownsagaim; 
severefrosts. In cold districts, and where the soil 
is of a heavy, moisture-holdiDg nature, a good 
mulchof leaves or litterof some kind is necessary, 
at the same time tyiDgthe leaves together. As 
long as the heart of the plant is preserved, it 
does not matter about the foliage generally being 
injured.—J. C. B. 

9749. — Hose-in-Hoee Polyanthus.- 

This form of the Polyanthus seeds fairly well, 
but not so freely as the ordinary Polyanthus. The 
tube in the Hose-in-Hose flower is very tiny, and 
perhaps fertility is not so easily ensured oivw 1 
the common flowers, but in any caae the seed- 
pods are smaller.—A. D. 





Mat 26, 1883] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


143 



SINGLE DAHLIAS. 

vvkrvoxe must now have seen or heard more 
>r less of single Dahlias, either at the various 
lower shows, or through the numerous articles 
hat have appeared in the horticultural 
papers. Though many of the old Dahlia growers 
idiculed them, they are now turning their atten- 
ion to them. What a change ! For years raisers 
drived to make them double and as large as 
DOssible; now they are going back to nature's 
production, pure and simple; and who knows 
bow many lovely forms have been cast away to 
;ive place to double flowers. One of tho most 
itrikiog proofs, if such were needed, of the 
growing popularity of single Dahlias is the 
quantities of them that are grown for sale about 
London as well as in the country generally. At 
the Hale Farm Nursery, Tottenham, last year, 
Sir. Ware had something like five acres wholly 
ievoted to them, the plants 
numbering some five or 
<ix thousand. During 
the autumn this Dahlia 
ground was a wonderful 
light, literally a sea of 
xilotir of almost every 
tonceivable shade. The 
eason why so much 
pace was set apart for 
ingle Dahlias was that 
Jr. Ware intended to pro- 
ure from all available 
ources every sort that 
cemed to be worth eul- 
ivating, so as to make a 
election of the very best 
or propagating on an cx- 
ensive scale in future. 

'hough all single Dahlias 
re pretty, there are 
irge numbers that rank 
elow the standard of 
xcellence. As the pre¬ 
set is the time to plant, 
o time should be lost 
i preparing the ground 
nd obtaining the plants. 

"he ground should be 
eeply dug and well ma- 
; ured. Dahlias, being 
ross feeders, require 
lenty of good feeding 
> bring them to perfec- 
on. Sufficient space 
ight to be left between 
if: plants, if planted in 
eds, to admit of their 
sing staked and tied, 
mm 3 feet to 4 feet 
part each way is a dis- 
inee which will allow 
icm to receive plenty 
f light and air. Both in 
•ogle rows and in groups 
le colours should be 
roperly blended. A 
rand effect is produced 
y planting several plants 
t different colours in 
roups in shrubberies 
r mixed borders. Dwarf 
tahlias form an effec- 


rative and ether purposes. Glabrata, a pretty 
dwarf growing species, covered with myriads of 
small lilac blossoms with yellow centres, a gem 
for cutting. It is synonymous with D. Mercki 
and Decaisneana,both fine in their way, but more 
adapted for winter flowering than any previously 
mentioned; Juarezi, the Cactus Dahlia, a curious 
double variety, resembling in flower Ccreus spe- 
ciossimus, with the brilliant colouring of a Poin- 
settia ; there appeared to be several new varieties 
inthisway; Viridiflora, the green flowered Dahlia; 
Zimapani, the Black Dahlia, flowers deep crim¬ 
son, almost black. D. imperialis, arborea, and 
Maximilians are best grown under protection ; 
all the others require similar treatment to ordi¬ 
nary Dahlias. 


Annual Chrysanthemums.— We have 
in the family of Chrysanthemums many most 
effective and beautifully 
fliwcred plants. Com¬ 
monly little is known of 
other members than the 
popular autumn and 
winter blooming Chinese 
and Japanese kinds, al¬ 
though gardeners have of 
late years found in 
the hard-wooded green¬ 
house section of frutes- 
cens, or so-called Paris 
Daisies, plants of singu¬ 
lar value as flower pro¬ 
ducers. One of the 
most common of all the 
wild Chrysanthemums is 
the perennial Oxeye 
Daisy, C. leucanthe- 
mum, and is less known 
because found growing 
wild only in certain lo¬ 
calities; the wild annual 
Segetum, the flowers of 
rich orange colour, is a 
most useful plant to fur¬ 
nish cut bloom, and it 
should be grown in abun¬ 
dance in every garden 
for that purpose. But 
the real so-called annual 
Chrysanthemums are of 
the coronaria section, 
most of them being of 
Continental introduction, 
are what may be called 
half hardy annuals, and 
usually grow under pro¬ 
per culture from fifteen 
inches to twenty inches in 
height. These all come 
freely from seed Bown 
either under glass in 
April or in May in the 
open ground. The ma¬ 
jority of the annual 
section are single flower¬ 
ed, but some few are 
double, the white and 
yellow forms being not 
only clear and bright, 
but singularly fine in 
form, indeed, resembling 
a good Ranunculus 
flower. Mr. Cannell has 
of late been showing 
plants and flowers of 
the double yellow, which 
have been produced from cuttings, and it is 
quite entertaining to find everybody to be as 
enthusiastic over these very perfect double 
flowers as if they were the most ragged edged 
single flowers ever seen. How erratic and 
inconstant is taste. Of the single forms, tricolor 
and its superb varieties, Lord Beaconsfield, 
W. E. Gladstone, The Sultan, and Burridgei, 
are large and singularly striking. These tall 
annuals are very effective if planted out in a 
carpet of some dwarf, dense growing kind. Last, 
thought not least, they are most useful to supply 
cut flowers.— A. D. 


To destroy BlugS —When I began garden¬ 
ing as an amateur I was pestered with slugs. I 
went in for keeping my garden asneat as possible, 
and picked every weed off as soon as it made its 
appearance, but I found that while I was picking 
the weeds as fast as they came, something else 
was picking the plants just as fast ar.d a* 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Single Dahlia White queen. Sketched from a plant In Mr. Ware’s Nurjery at Tottenham. 


ive back row for a 
ride ribbon border, using 
lants of different colours 
lternately. Dse stakes 
ccording to the height 

o which the different varieties grow, and tie | one of the finest; Lovely, bright crimson, clouded 
he shoots to the stakes loosely as often as they I with gold, a very novel and effective flower; 

| Lutea grandiflora, rich golden yellow, fine form; 
Mauve Queen—this will be difficult to beat, being 
exquisite in form, and of a most lovely mauve 


eqmre it until they reach their height. When 
he plants begin to show flower use liquid manure 
mce a week if the weather is dry. 

For decorative purposes single Dahlias are 
rre eminently useful, their large, bold flowers 
'landing op well above the foliage, defying 
loth wind and rain far better than the double 
as the rain cannot rest among the florets, 
, id being much lighter in structure, they bend 
, the wind, instead of breaking off, as is too 
ten the case with the massive double varieties. 
1 a rule, too, the single ones are more profuse 
doming, flower earlier, and are appreciated by 
'rryone for cutting purposes. There is another 
•bantage belonging to the single varieties; 
at bane to flower picking, the earwig, finds no 
ding-place among the petals; whereas double 
. 5w erj often contain this objectionable pest, 
or supplying cut flowers latefln the w»r 

T i 111. VjO 


gte 


colour; 1’aragon, rich velvety maroon, each petal 
edged with a broad band of rosy purple; Paragon 
(purple), a fac-simile of the above, but without 
the central marking, a first class variety; Ruby, 
rich ruby red, flushed with crimson, a very telling 
variety ; Scarlet Gem, bright scarlet, shading to 
orange, a bold and very conspicuous variety; 
Thalia, bright amaranth, fine well-formed flower; 
White Queen, the finest white Dahlia in existence 
—perfection, in fact, in every respect; Tellow 
Queen, rich yellow, extra fine habit, very free 
flowering, an exact counterpart of White Queen 
except in colour. 

In addition to the above, a few species demand 
attention, which scarcely come into the category 
qjrf florists' flowers, yet are very useful for deco- 


Dahlias are the most valuable group of plants in 
cultivation ; and the fact of the Covent Garden 
florists buying them by hundreds proves the 
value set upon them for that purpose. 

In making a selection, be careful to avoid all 
those with incurved petals, as they are very 
inferior to tho thick, flat, imbricated petalled 
kinds, such as White Queen. The following kinds 
will be found among the finest in cultivation : 
Aurantiaca, bright orange, fine well-formed 
flowers ; Beauty of Cambridge, bright fiery crim¬ 
son, very large, flat and circular ; Cecie Tegner, 
bright rosy pink, clear and distinct; Darkness, 
very deep, rich, bright mulberry ; Duke of Teck, 
rich mauve, very dwarf; Gracilis perfects, rich 
velvpty crimson, good shaped flower, a first-class 
variety; Harlequin,deep rich rose, striped with pur¬ 
ple through the centre of each petal; Le Baron, rich 
mulberry, shaded wit h crimson, wit h a dark centre, 











144 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Mat 26, 1883. 


thoroughly. The slugs were at work; and when 
there was nothing on the beds but the plants 
they soon made a clearance. I was advised to 
try lime, and I tried it, and for a few days it 
was effective; but as soon as rain came and it 
was thoroughly slaked, the slugs marched over 
it with impunity. I then adopted the following 
plan: I put some lumps of quicklime, fresh from 
the kiln, into a barrel of water—say half a 
bushel of lime or thereabouts—and left it till the 
effervescence ceased and the water became clear 
and limpid again, the lime having sunk to the 
bottom. I gave the young seedbeds a good 
watering with this solution, and the results were 
as amazing as they were gratifying; the lime 
wat-er suited my young plants to perfection, 
helped on their growth, and did for the slugs 
completely. By day slugs bury themselves in 
the beds which they lay waste by night, but the 
lime water follows them into their holes and 
destroys them. Let anyone troubled with slugs 
try this plan when young seedlings are appear¬ 
ing, and they will not be much troubled with 
them. If their gardens are watered all over a 
few times in spring, I think it very probable 
that they will be free from slugs for ever; other¬ 
wise it is not a bad plan to let the weeds grow 
along with the plants till the plants are strong 
enough to defy the slugs, and then clear 
the beds. Whether it is that the weeds hide the 
plants, or the slugs are not particular in their 
eating, I do not know; but I have seen the 
plants in neglected beds safe while on clean beds 
they were cleared off almost as soon as they 
showed above ground.—J. A. M. 


VEGETABLES. 


Salting Asparagus beds.— Various are 
the opinions expressed as regards the merits of 
salt as a manure for Asparagus, but in determin¬ 
ing its value it should be borne in mind that soil 
plays an important part in the matter. Where 
it grows naturally the soil is light and sandy, 
and the atmosphere being impregnated with sea 
air, salt is deposited to some extent by every 
shower that falls, but to apply it to the same 
extent to heavy soil in inland stations would 
probably bo injurious. When living in Suffolk 
close to the coast, I found the culture of 
Asparagus a very easy affair; beds that had 
been known to exist as long as the oldest 
inhabitant could remember were still producing 
very fine crops, and it was customary to give 
them a dressing of salt just before the shoots 
began to appear, both to assist the growth of the 
Asparagus and to check that of weeds. But 
where the soil is naturally retentive, I am doubt¬ 
ful if salt at any time could be given with 
advantage, as it tends to make the soil damp and 
adhesive, and the roots perish in such soil in 
winter. Except in beds specially prepared, a! 
dressing of wood-ashes or sand would have a 
more beneficial effect than salt. I have some¬ 
times applied salt when the plants were in 
active growth, but care must be taken that it 
does not lie long in actual contact with the 
stems, or it will injure the tender skin and 
possibly destroy the shoots. If employed at all. 
salt, like other strong remedies, needs to be used 
with caution, guided to a great extent by the 
nature of the soil.—G. M. 

Parsley in spring. — Probably many 
readers of Gardening* will be surprised to learn 
that during the spring Parsley was so scarce in 
the London markets that almost any price was 
obtainable for a fair sample. That this com¬ 
parative scarcity was chiefly due to the severe 
weather which prevailed during March, there 
could be little doubt, but something is due also 
to inappreciative cultivation, and also to the 
absence of shelter from east winds, without 
which it is not possible to have Parlsey in good 
gathering condition. Perhaps something also is 
due to the exceedingly hard picking to which, in 
seasons of dearness, Parsley is subjected, and by 
doing which the growers literally kill the goose 
which lays the golden eggs, for the harder 
Parsley is gathered the more is the recuperative 
powers of the plant weakened. In addition to 
having this most useful herb sown in a sheltered 
place, it is important, first, that it should be 
sown early to ensure strong growth ere the 
winter sets in ; second, that the plants shall be 
well thinned, and third, that the strain shall be 
a first-rate one. . It is worthy of^iotice, however, 
‘hat the best obt^ ha Parsley the 


first year from transplanted plants, and when it 
is determined to transplant, the seed may be 
sown in a small bed, or if difficult to get it up, 
then in a shallow box under glass, and when 
strong put outdoors to harden before transplant¬ 
ing. Parsley thrives well in stiff soil that is also of 
fair quality, but if left thick where sown, as is so 
commonly the case, the character and quality of 
plants and leafage bears no comparison to the 
splendid growth which follows from transplant¬ 
ing into good soil. In all cases the plants 
should be not less than a foot apart, indeed, 
many of them will expand to a breadth of 
15 inches, and if a good strain, as all Parsley 
now should be, the foliage will be of the finest 
curled kind. Whether sown to stand or whether 
transplanted, give plenty of room, and the 
liberality thus shown will be amply repaid.— 
A. D. 

Turnips for winter— A good supply of 
Turnips during the winter and spring months is 
valuable. It is difficult to gauge the exact time 
to sow, but, making allowance for difference of 
climate, the main winter crop should be got in 
between June 20 and July 20, sowing earliest, 
of course, in late districts, and later in the south 
and in early localities. Two sowings, however, 
are best, allowing a fortnight between them, and 
then a good standing winter crop is almost, 
certain. Winter Turnips should not be above 
half grown when winter overtakes them, as they 
then stand frost and alternations of the weather 
better. Mature, full-sized roots are the first to 
give way. Moderately rich ground and a deep 
tilth should be afforded them ; and when the 
plants are past all danger from liy, they should 
be thinned out to 2 feet apart each way if sown 
broadcast, and if in drills, which is the best plan, 
the rows should be that distance asunder. 
Turnips which are thick on the ground never 
stand the winter well. Some people sow a later 
crop between the first and last weeks of August 
to succeed the first, but such a crop should not 
be trusted to. They may form usable little bulbs 
in spring, but the chances are that they will 
never come to anything, but run to seed 
as soon as growth commences. Behind a north 
wall is a good situation for a winter crop 
of Turnips, as they are always in the shade 
during the short days, and, not being so often 
frozen and thawed, they last better. Chirk 
Castle is by far the best variety for winter, 
being very hardy, white-fleshed, and goo»l. 

Early Cauliflowers— There appears to 
be some misunderstanding as to what may be 
really called early Cauliflowers. Some say they 
have them fit for use in April, but even in the 
best managed market gardens Cauliflowers have 
not yet been cut before the month of May ; pre¬ 
mature or button-heads will not do for market. 
Here we are well satisfied if we get a good supply 
of Cauliflowers from autumn-sown plants after 
the middle of May, as we can count on Broccoli, 
such as Cattell’s Eclipse, up to that date, and 
then if the spring-sown plants take up the 
supply in June there is not much more to be 
desired.—J. G. L. 

9730.— Seakale culture. —It was formerly 
the practice to keep Seakale beds for many 
years, forcing or blanching with big pots, &c., 
covered up with long manure and leaves, till 
finally the exhausted roots either produced very 
small crowns or died. Now, in all good gardens, 
seed of Seakale is sown every year, so that it is 
in that simple way always possible to keep up a 
constant supply of good stout forcing roots. 
Seed should have been gown in April, but it is 
not yet too late to do so, and should be in shal¬ 
low drills as for Peas, but about 15 inches apart. 
If there be a good plant come up, it is necessary 
to thin the seedlings out to 9 inches apart in 
every other row, and to 12 inches apart in the 
rows that are to remain. In the following win¬ 
ter or spring the first-named rows are lifted and 
replanted in rich soil in rows 2 feet apart, so that 
there is a double crop of plants now at disposal, 
but those remaining in the ground will be the 
strongest for forcing or blanching first in the 
next winter, and the transplanted ones will fol¬ 
low well for a succession. If seed be sown every 
year in large or small quantities, just ns little or 
much of the kale is needed, there will thus be 
kept up a never-failing supply of strong young 
plants, that may be lifted and forced in beds or 
blanched on the ground, as may seem most de¬ 
sirable. Seakale prefers strong, holding soil, 
trenched 2 f*>et in depth and well m&nuted. A 


dressing of salt may be forked in between tbs 
crowns early in each spring, as it is a semi- 
aquatic plant, and thrives well on the sea-coast 
—A. D. 

9739— Asparagus culture — Asparagu 
should not be planted in trenches and beds but 
level, as most other crops are. If put into tier 
ches.the depth of soil under the roots is lessened 
If put into elevated beds the roots are more ex¬ 
posed to drought. The best plan is first to trench 
a piece of 6oil from 21 feet to 3 feet in depth, 
working in a liberal dressing of manure under 
the top spit, and then adding to the surface a 
dressing of short manure. The plants should he 
in rows 2 feet apart, and be planted at once. 
The best method of planting is to strain dowr. a 
line, and by its side fork out a very shallow 
trench, into which place the roots, and then re¬ 
cover with the soil from the next trench, and so 
continue till all are planted. After-dressicg 
done by lightly forking the surface of the soil 
in the winter and then adding a heavy dressing 
of short, fresh manure to wash in. If plants are 
not to be had, sow seed at once, and thin out the 
seedlings, or else sow in a bed and plant out iu 
the winter.—A. 

9742.— Potatoes with lime.— The chief 

use of lime in the soil is to liberate the manure 
in it that may have become set or incapable of 
parting with its constituents. Its operation 
upon the soil in the way of lightening it is only 
small, still it is productive of some good. Tbe 
most efficient way to employ lime is to put down 
heaps of the material unslaked at modern 
distances apart, and just cover up with soil. Is 
a day or two the air will cause the lime to slab:, 
and then, with the soil, it may be spread everd; 
over the ground and forked in. The spreadir; 
should be done only as fast as the ground U dus, 
and not all at once.—A. 

Mushroom be^s.— Theee may ho frrmed at kt 
season, but the best times are September and Fetoan 
abed spawned in September will last through the visis 
months. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

9755.—Starlings and Cherry trees- 

I have a standard Cherry tree which used ft 
be a prey to starlings in the manner ern- 
plained of by “ Janie.” I have found that apn. 
or scare-crow, with outstretched arms, bo&’i 
up to the top of the tree by means of a scaffd' 4 - 
pole, since it was used, has effectually scared ^ 
at least the main body of the starlings. TbeoG 
predations committed when this guardian is o 
his post are very trifling. In fitting up the guy. I 
equipped him with a couple of penny masks, facing 
opposite ways, an old coat and hat, and a showy 
cravat with long loose ends. No better intern¬ 
ments. A couple of shield-shaped boards of 
per size should be nailed to opposite sides of the 
pole within 6 inches of the top, to which the 
masks are to be tacked, and a cross piece 6 inchc- 
below them, over which the arms of the coat *» 
run. This last must be done before the cross pis? 
is fixed. The hat is tacked through the crown <i 
the top of the pole, and the foot of the latter» 
lashed to the trunk of the tree.—J. M. 

9725.— Pelargoniums in winter.-Tb 
ordinary scarlet Geraniums and many otb€J> j 
will flower well during the autumn and vintff 
if taken out of the borders and potted at theecj 
of September. If the weather is fine they viii 
do well for some time without artificial heat 
but if frosty, a temperature of 50° to 5.V nr:* 
be maintained, with a very moderate supply c 
water. Cuttings taken now and not allowed M 
flower at all till wanted, will answer well & 
winter blooming.—B. 

9744.— Azaleas after blooming- : 

Azaleas, as soon as the new growth is 
should be placed out-of-doors to get hardens 
or matured, and thus help to produce blown 
buds for the next year. A position partly wa¬ 
tered from midday sunshine is best, and the po * 
should be plunged in ashes to protect the root- 
The plants must not be permitted to get dry. 

A. D. 

0697. —Pyracanthas failing -Tb e ty** 
cant ha is such a strong-growing tree that o 
seldom hears of its refusing to grow. IVtmf* | 
yotlr soil is too poor, and we would nt onct 
ihulch the roots with some good manure, o 
water with diluted house slops. If ^ ^ j 

this humme? would take ft 




- May 26, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


145 


,\1 of the leaf, and make the soil good by the 
idition of some manure.—J. C. B. 

9749.— Hose-in-Hose Polyanthus.— In 
.ply to “ Anxious,*’ I had three or four plants of 
ellow Hose-in-Hose Polyanthus last year which 
roduccd seed, but the quantity was very limited, 
lowever, it was sown as soon as ripe—about the 
liddle of August, and the result was upwards 
f a score of plants which are now growing nicely, 
nd will no doubt bloom well next spring.—B. 

974.').— Haricot Beans.— These are but a 
ind of tlie common French or dwarf Bean, and 
eed just the same cultivation, being sown now 
nd through the month in shallow rows 20 inches 
part, and not too thickly. The Beans are al- 
jwed to hang and ripen, when the seed or 
ratured pods are gathered and shelled, the Beans 
•eing cooked according to taste.—A. D. 


SowiDPT seeds.—IIow deep should seeds be covered 
-such as Mignonette, Phlox, Ac. ?—Fo NS.— [Merely hide 
ht seeds with fine soil. ] 

Guelder Rose.— Fong .—This is a hardy deciduous 
hrub. The best time to plant is in autumn. 

Ifonibutk .—Your best plan would be to advertise in 
omt’ of the gardening papers, and watch for salc3. - — 
‘Jinilie Sober U .—From Messrs. Barr and Sons, 12, King 
treet, Covent Garden, or from Mr. Ware, Halo Farm 

• urseries, Tottenham, London, N.- The h'lws .—The 

entres of most of the large white Clematises are purple. 
— Toot*. —The insect is brown scale. See answer to 

T. W. A."-J. W. A.—The Insect is brown scale. 

Lemove it with a pointed stick, then well spoDge with soft 

iapand wann water.- Hamlet.— Keep the atmosphere 

.f the house rather dry till the berries have set. 

Jame I Reid .—Tf you have got a fire inside the vinery 
,'ou need look no further for the cause of your Vines 
ailing It would be infinitely better to have no heat at 

ill than to have nn open fire.-Fo.—Clay's fertiliser. 

the Cherry tree may be allowed to carry a fair crop of 
ruit. Slugs and snails are always breeding, and the 
ittle ones are always growing bigger. Destroy all that 
•an be seen, grout or small.— V. C .—Those sent look like 
cm ale blossoms. 

Names of plants.— Nemo. — Alonsoa incisa.- 

Begonia A. is nitida cocclnea, Begonia B. is 

.itellina; Fern next week.- Blackpool.— Helleborus 

mtidna.— Constant Reader.— 1, Sisymbrium millefolium ; 

3.—Crotons (cannot name from such scraps); 4, 1’oly- 
ttichum nculeatum ; f», Send with spores at back of 

mud,- K. C. SichoM's.— Hottonia palustris.- A. 

BoijU —Both varieties of Scilla nutans- B. F. B.— 

Kerria japonica tt.*pl- L. B. C.-Musk Hyacinth 

Muscari moscliatum).- Uncas —Adiantum amabile. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents.—A ll communica- 
t ions for insertion should be clearly and concisely written 
on otic side of the. paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Lrtters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
a nd address of the sender is required, in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers tc Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the neseasity of 
HARDENING going to press a considerable time before the 
day of jrublication, it is not possible to insert queries and 
cjnnmunications the week they are received. Queries not 
a lowered should be sent to us again. 

9781.—Roses for Russia.-Can anyone tell me what 
would be the most likely Roses to train over a house in 
this climate ? 1 have never heard of its being tried. The 
difficulty is the great cold in winter, and its long con¬ 
tinuance—six months—and at an average degree of 
15 Reaumur (about zero Fahr.), with an occasional fall 
to 20° (35 below zero). Grafted Roses are always difficult 
to keep. Those on their own mots keep fairly well in the 
gronnd by being covered with Fir branches, and mats 
over all. I suppose that It would be necessary to take 
the plant down from the walls, and lay it on the ground, 
and then cover it-a system that answers well with 
Yiginia Creeper—A ristolochia, and such creepers, espe¬ 
cially with a quantity of snow piled over them. I have a 
south wall and light soil.— MOURINO, St. Petersburg, 
Russia. 


and the purple Beech ; also, which is the largest specimen 
of either sort in this country ? Suppo*ing the two sorts 
to be distinct, are there any well marked differences of 
growth or habit between them, and in particular is one 
earlier in the spring, or holds its leaves later or fresher 
in the autumn than the other?—Rus IN Urbe. 

9785.—Plants for steep bank.—I have a bank of clay 
retained for some 30 feet with stakes driven into the 
ground and sticks interlaced after the manner of hurdles 
3 feet high. These are beginning to fail owing to the 
pressure and decay. What strong-rooted plant can be 
sown or planted that will farm & net-work of roots to 
retain the clay, which, to allow of a path, must be kept 
nearly perpendicular for the 3 feet in height? The upper 
part is planted with Laurels, Aucubas, Ac., and is very 
firm.—J. H. B. 

9786 —Peat Moss.—Will “ B. C." (9597) say whether 
peat moss makes as good a hotbed as stable litter ? Also 
whether it does not form a cold bed for a horse after it 
has been down for a week or two, and has absorbed a 
quantity of moisture ? What is the size of the loose box 
referred to, and what quantity of peat was laid down in 
the first instance, and how much lias since been added ? 

I cannot endorse the statement that the moss does not 
stain grey horses.—C. C. J. 

9787.—Greenhouses <•. frames.—I shall he obliged 
for advice as to the relative merits of frames and green¬ 
houses. Can frames be used for the same purposes as a 
greenhouse ‘t They are much more cheaply made, compara¬ 
tively for .space they aff ord, aud I should think more easily 
heated. I want chiefly protection for plants through 
winter, also to gTow a few Primulas, Cinerarias, Ac., and 
to provide flowers for summer. I do not like the dirt 
and trouble of hotbeds.— Novice. 

97S8.—Improving a lawn.-I live in the neighbour¬ 
hood of Manchester, on a light, sandy Boil, and am 
anxious to have my lawn in good condition. There is a 
large quantity of thick, coarse Grass in it. The Dande¬ 
lions and other weeds I have had taken out. Will any 
reader give me any suggestions as to what course would 
be the best to adopt to improve matters ? And also, 
what they would suggest for a lawn on a clayey toil in the 
same condition ?— WEEDS. 

9789. —Spots in Pelargoniums.—Can anyone in¬ 
form me the cause of spots in Pelargoniums? Mine were 
the same last summer. I have well shaken them out, and 
potted them all in new pots in good old tuify soil aud 
leaf-mould, with some washed sand, and I may say that 
1 have bought a new lot this spring that never have been 
potted, and they are gone the same. Last year I had them 
on a stage in a cool, airy house. This year I have them in 
a span-roofed frame.—A. Difficult. 

9790. - Coronillas.—How ought I to treat Coronillas? 

I have at different times bought them in flower, but 
always find that they drop their flowers and leaves at 
once, and no fresh buds come out. I have one now’ in a 
greenhouse facing south, which seems to be making fresh 
growth. It is in a 6-inch pot. Should 1 repot it in a 
larger pot, and if so, when, and in what soil ? Should it 
be kept in a greenhouse or put out-of-doors, or should it 
be planted out to make its growth ?—L. D. 

9791. -Cesspool water for fruit trees.—I have a 
cesspool which receives all the sediment from the water | 
closet, and also liquid from the cowhouse, alto suds ar.d 
water from the wash house, Ac. Will any reader say if 
this can be utilised ns liquid manure for fruit trees, say 
Apple, Pear, Plum, Gooseberry, Ac., without breeding 
garden pests, such as are common to those kind of trees ? 
—Regular Subscriber. 

9792. —Gas and plants.—I am having a conserva¬ 
tory built, and purpose to keep frost out by having a gaa 
stove with a pipe chimney lending through the roof. I 
want to know whether there is any chance of the gaa 
doing the plants any harm under such circumstances, and 
should feel very much obliged if some practical person 
would kindly advise me. The conservatory is 28 feet 
long and 12 feet wide.—S. B. 

9793. —Neglected Rhododendrons.—I shall be 
glad to know what treatment to adopt for Rhododen¬ 
drons that have been neglected. Should they be pruned, 
or have any special dressing given to the roots, or liquid 
manure ? Is ft better to clear out all the growth round 
theroot3? The plants are strong aud healthy, and of a 
large size, grown on a lawn, and embedded in gl ass and 
undergrowth.—A n Enquirer. 

9794 — Concrete walls for fruit trees.—I propose 
building a garden wall, aud should be glad to know if a 
concrete wall made of gravel and sand would answer the 
purpose fin retaining heat, A-c.) as well as brick? There 
are no bricks in the neighbourhood, but gravel is plenti¬ 
ful. Of course I know the wall would have to be wired 
for fruit trees.—H ambusk. 


97S2.—Plants for north border.—I have a border 
about 3 feet wide and 20 feet long, looking duo north, 
and with a tarred close fence about 5 feet bigh at the 
back. It gets little Bun from October to May, and the 
ground is always damp and sticky at that time. Of course 
in the summer months it gets n good share of sunlight. 
Would someone tell me what plants would do best in it, 
and whether raising the border would improve the drain¬ 
age and prevent Primroses and Polyanthuses from damp¬ 
ing off and disappearing altogether in winter? I have 
-ome Rosea iu it and a few Auriculas and Forget-me-nots, 
but nothing thrives.—U pper Edmonton. 

9783.—Heating 1 houses in Russia.—! notice that 
Iieating greenhouses by hot water is always recommended 
in preference to old-fashioned stoves and brick ilutfs. 
Does this hold good in a cold climate like this (Russia)? 
II .so, what ought I to order in the way of stove and 
apparatus? The houses of which I am thinking are one 
ol 21 feet by 12 feet, and one of 40 feet by 20 feet, and are 
sunk about 2 feet in the ground. In very cold weather 
1S« to 20° below zero. 1 have to heat twice a day now, 
and can barely keep out the frost.. My object is to keep 
a winter temperature of HT to 15* Cent, as evenly as pos- 
■iible.—MoCRlbiO, St. Petersburg, Russia. 

9754.— Copper or purple Beeches.—Can anyone 
Inform me the date at which copper or purple Beeches 
•vert first Introduced or cultivated In'this country, apcl 
there to a clear diutinstfcri th afj 


9795.—Insects on Clianthue.—I have a Clianthus, 
the under side .of the leaves ,of which are covered with 
small insects that can hardly be seen without a glass. 
The leaves look as if they were mildewed. I should be 
glad to get some information about them, as I fear they 
will get on my Vines.—S. J. N. 

• 9796.—Grubs in Strawberry beds.—will somo 
reader kindly tell me some means of destroying grubs? 
Our Strawberry beds are infested with them. They are 
black, and vary in size, and entirely strip the plants of 
their leaves. Soot has been tried as a remedy, but without 
the slightest benefit.—A. B. 

9797. —Strawberries not fruiting’.—Can any 
reader inform me why my Dr. Hogg Strawberry plants 
bear no fruit ? They are magnificent plants, two-y ear-old, 
but there is no bloom, and there was none last year.— 
H. S. W. 

9798. —Manure water for plants.—Can the con 
tents of the slop-pail be used as a manure for Ferns, 
Geraniums, and flowers generally ; if so, what proportion 
of water must be added, and how often used?—REGULAR 

SUBSCRIBER. 

9799. —Double Daisies deteriorating.—Can any¬ 
one tell me how it is that my double red Daisies have ail 
come either deformed or single flowers ? I divided the 

I roots last autumn, aud the soil is pretty good, having 
f being very heavily mpnttred two years agOi^-ttOATF: 


9SOO.—Pimeleas.—Will someone kindly give me in¬ 
formation respecting Pimeleas ? I have one just done 
flowering; should it be pruned, and what sort of treat¬ 
ment does it require ? I also have another Pink Pimclea, 
but it is in full bloom.—A NOVICE. 

9801.— Tulips, &C.— I have some Tulips and Auriculas 
in my garden which are now in bloom, and should be 
glad if some reader would kindly inform me what to do 
with them, as l wish to plant Geraniums, Ac., in the 
same beds?—AMATEUR. 

0802.—Stockir g a greenhouse.—Hoping to have a 
greenhouse, 18 feet by 8 feet, with Loughborough boiler, 
completed by the end of July, I shall be grateful to bo 
informed what plauts would be best to stock it with for 
winter and spring blooming.—K. N. 

9803.—Deutzias after flowering.—Should a plant 
of Deutzia which has been cut back and is now making 
fresh growth in a greenhouse be planted out to harden its 
growth, and if so, when, and in what soil and situation ? 
—L. D. 

9S04.—Soot water for Rose?.- I should be glad to 
know if soot water is to be recommended for Roses in 
pots, and if so, in what proportion should it be used, and 
how prepared.—M eKT oN. 

9805. —Budding Roees.—Are buds ever inserted in 
the under side of the shoot ? If thoy grew at all I fancy 
they would be more protected from the winter rains and 
frost than those on the upper side.—C. II. 

9806. —Climbers'for wails.—Will someone kindly 
desclibe and give the names of the best evergreen 
climbers lor walls in different aspects, quick growing 
cues desired? Soil rather heavy.— Ham BUSK. 

9807. —Alpine Aui icujas.—Would s<nieore inform 
me what Alpine Auriculas really are? Must they have 
yellow or white centres ; also, what is an unshaded 
Alpine ?—Memo. 

9808. —Saving Primula seed. — will someone 
kindly give me a few hints as to the best way to save 
seeds of the Chinese Primulas? Ought the flowers io bo 
fertilised or not ?—VV. H. D. 

9809. —Calceolarias after blooming.—I have some 
lar^c-ilowering Calceolarias in pots now in flower. Can I 
keep the plants for next year, aiul if bo, what treatment 
Bliould they receive ?—It. R. 

9810. —Daieies and Dardellons on lawns — 
Will any reader kindly give me information as to the 
best mode of eradicating Daisies and Dandelions from 
lawns?—N orth. 

9811. —Planting a window case —Advice wanted 
as to making, draining, and planting a case to be placed 
outside a window, aspect north-east; size, about 2 feet 
deep, 5i feet wide, and 4J feet high.—E milie Noberts. 

9812. —Rueeian Violets.—How should I treat Rus¬ 
sian Violets ? What is the best soil for them and tho time 
for renewing them 1— M. R. 

9813. —Soot water.—I have tried to mix soot with 
water, but failed. Will someone tell mo how to use soot 
as a manure?—J essie. 

9814. —Heliotrope for greenhouse wall —Will 
any reader kindly say what is the best tall Heliotrope to 
grow on hack wall of loun-to greenhouse?—K. N. 

9815. — Soot water. — What quantity of soot is 
required to a gallon of water?—B biilie Noberts. 


POULTRY. 

Large and small eggs.— M. C. T. —This 
frequently happens both with pullets com¬ 
mencing to lay and also with hens recommencing. 
We have seen them no larger than a thrush’s 
egg, and the shells are generally rough and mis¬ 
shapen. The cause of these small eggs arises 
from the fact of the oviduct becoming excited, 
and while there is a superabundance of white, 
the yolks are not matured. The consequence is 
that the white passes through the duct and be¬ 
comes enveloped in a shell, in size suitable to 
its requirements, hence the small eggs, without 
yolks. In many country places they are firmly 
believed to be the product of the cock bird. 
Double yolked eggs are caused by the yolks being 
in a high state of maturity, so that two become 
detached from the bunch at the same time, and 
are enveloped with white and a shell, the latter 
of course, being extra large. We do not know 
that it proves injurious to a hen to lay a double 
yolked egg occasionally, but where they are 
laid, as in your case, once or twice every week, 
we should say it would be so. We know of no 
remedy for it or the laying of small, yolkless 
eggs. Eggs which become chipped or cracked in 
any way, however small, during the process of 
incubation, are very seldom of any further use, 
but we remember once trying an experiment on 
an egg which had become cracked, using gammed 
paper (the refuse off postage stamps) and we were 
successful, but generally it would be better to 
take away the eggs which become fractured in 
any way. The evening of the twenty-first day 
is generally the time when the chicks commence 
to emerge from the shells, but in severe weather 
it is sometimes retarded for one and often two 
days, without detriment to the health or strength 
of the chick.—A ndalusian. 

Bantams.— T. O .—Yours are evidently 
Cochin or Pekin Bantams, and are no novelty. 
h* they were exhibited at the Crystal Palac** 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


146 


show as far back as 1862. They should be as 
identical to the regular Cochin fowl as possible. 
We never saw any other colour than buff in the 
plumage. The legs must be feathered and of a 
yellow colour. You will find this variety far 
easier to breed np to show standard than the 
Sebright Bantams, which are very difficult indeed 
to breed good. The only drawback to the Cochin 
Bantam is its delicacy as a chicken, and unless 
well looked after and fed on the most nutritious 
food it will never reach maturity. May or J une 
is quite early enough to hatch them, and a pen 
is best made up of an old cock with two year 
old hens, which will generally produce small 
specimens. Many breeders of Bantams do not 
hatch their chicken until autumn, in order that 
the approach of cold weather will prevent the 
chickens growing large. This is a very gcod 
plan, but one which requires a deal of trouble 
and attention to the birds, or they will quickly 
succumb to the cold and wet. We once saw a 
brood of silver pencilled Hamburghs which were 
hatched in September, and those that survived 
the winter were little larger than Bantams. 
Oatmeal is the best possible food for Bantams, 
as it keeps the size down and puts them in that 
hard condition so essential to these birds. In 
good specimens, the cock should not weigh more 
than from sixteen ounces to eighteen ounces, 
and the hen from fourteen ounces to sixteen 
ounces. We have known Bantam cocks cross 
with ordinary hens, so that you will not, with 
safety, be enabled to keep them and the Leg- 
horns in one run. We should recommend you 
to wire off about 12 feet square of your run, 
which will be ample for five Bantams, and the 
house may be about 4 feet square.— Anda¬ 
lusian. 

Eggs tainted.—“Andalusian " doubts the 
possibility of hens laying tainted eggs. From 
experience, I can corroborate the statement of 
“ L. M. B ,” having kept a few fowls which hail 
every care and attention as to feeding, cleanli¬ 
ness, &c., and the run of a field, and I was 
several times accused of giving crate eggs for 
breakfast when I had not such a thing in the 
house. However, we at last discovered the 
delinquent—a brown speckled hen, of no parti¬ 
cular breed, and she always laid musty eggs, so 
we had her killed. A friend of mine in Cheshire 
had a hen which did the same, so I can vouch 
for two instances to prove that it is no fancy on 
the part of “L. M. B.”—Canadian. 

Houdans losing feathers.— Hmdan.— 
We are rather puzzled by your query, and cannot 
understand how it is your birds are bare on the 
breast unless they have been sitting. You have 
every advantage for keeping them healthy with 
your half acre of grass run. We can only put it 
down to their being either too highly fed or want 
of cleanliness in the house. Do you provide a 
good dust bath t Anoint the parts with petroleum 
ointment. We doubt whether the feathers will 
grow again until moultiDg time. Give a little 
calomel in the soft food occasionally, which will 
tend to beep the blood cool. See if the birds 
are infested with lice. If so, dust brimstone 
into the feathers and under the wings, at the 
same time well lime-washing the house and 
perches.— Andalusian. 

Guinea fowl.— Can any reader inform me of the 
habits and customs of the Guinea fowl—whetker they 
have yet began to lay, and how to rear the young birds ; 
also, what are the characteristics of the male and female 
bird ?—C. H. _ 

BEES. 

SEASONABLE NOTES 

Stands fob hives.— It is best that each hive 
should have a separate stand, not nearer together 
than 3 feet, and placed in a right line; if under 
the shelter of a wall or fence, a space of 4 feet 
or 5 feet should be left between it and the row 
of hives, to allow of a pathway, as most opera¬ 
tions are more easily performed at the back of 
the hive. A very good stand may be made by 
placing firmly in the ground, as a pedestal, a 
piece of wood about afoot in diameter—a piece 
of tree-trunk with the bark on looks very well— 
leaving about 16 inches above the ground, upon 
this firmly nailing, perfectly level, a stout board 
of the same dimensions as the floor board of the 
hive to be placed upon it. Perhaps the best, 
cheapest, and simplest kind of stand ever in¬ 
vented is made of two pieces of 1 -inch board 
12 inches wide and from 18 inches to 2 feet long; 
yom tee centra.o^each is removed a piece equal 

Digitized by CjOOglC 


to its thickness and half its width. They are fitted 
across one another, and so form a stand of suit¬ 
able height, very firm but easily removed. The 
use of a low stand is always advisable, as it 
saves many bees from being lost, as in windy 
weather they are liable to be blown down while 
attempting to enter a hive placed on a high 
stand. The alighting boards of some bar-frame 
hives are made to reach to the ground when 
placed upon a low stand. 

Aspect of apiary.—A south-east aspect is 
found to be the most suitable, as it is important 
the bees should have the morning sun, as this 
induces them to begin work early, for as a rule 
they get through most of their labours in the 
morning; but whatever be the position, it should 
be that in which the sun will shine upon the 
hives at one time of the day, although a strong 
stock will thrive in any position, provided it is 
kept dry. The front of the hive should be kept 
free from plants and shrubs that grow higher 
than the entrance, as they much hinder the bees 
in their journeys to and from the hive, although 
low trees near or at the sides of the hive are 
convenient for swarms to cluster on, from which 
they are much more easily hived than from 
high trees. The ground about the hive should 
also be kept free from grass and weeds, because 
in the examination of a frame of comb, the 
queen sometimes falls to the ground, and is not 
easily recovered if she falls among rubbish. 

Bees' enemies. —The wax moth is a pest to 
the bee-keeper, and perhaps the greatest enemy 
the bees have to contend with. When it gains 
admittance into a hive it deposits large numbers 
of eggs in cracks and crevices, and the worms 
which hatch from the eggs feed upon the pollen 
and brood,spinning a silky film along the combs; 
they attain their full growth in about three 
weeks, when they spin their cocoons and in due 
course emerge perfect moths. If not well looked 
after and destroyed, they sometimes become so 
numerous in a hive, and commit such extensive 
ravages, as to force the stock to desert it. Their 
presence in a hive is indicated by fragments of 
wax mixed with black specks, being found on 
the floor board. It is, however, weak stocks that 
suffer from the intrusions of the wax moth. In 
strong stocks it has very little chance of t fleeting 
an entrance. The larvae is mostly found between 
the quilt and the tops of the frames, and be¬ 
tween the edges of the skep and the floor board ; 
but if, instead of the edges of the skep resting on 
the floor board, a wooden hoop be sewn to the 
bottom, so that the straw will be kept well above 
the floor, there will be no harbour for the larvae. 
The blue titmouse often catches and destroys 
numbers of bees. An old writer on bee keeping 
quaintly remarks, “ the titmouse isanotherenemy, 
he always watches at the hive for the coming 
and going out of the bees; he will stand at the 
door, and then never leave knocking till one 
cometh to see who is thcie, and then, suddenly 
catching her, away he flies with her, and when 
he hath eaten her he flies back for more. Eight 
or nine will scarce serve his turn at once.” A net 
placed over the hive to prevent its getting on 
the alighting board, or a wire screen like a fire¬ 
guard fixed before the entrance, will stop its 
ravages. Queen wasps are now making their 
appearance, and are sometimes found at the 
entrance of a hive. They should be searched 
for and destroyed, as each queen starts an in¬ 
dependent colony, which makes great havoc 
amongst the bees towards the end of the 
summer. It is, however, only with weak stocks 
that they can do much mischief, and he who 
would be a successful bee keeper must keep his 
stocks always strong. S. 8 . G. 

Boxworth . 


BIRDS. 

Birds for large cage —To give “ Siskin ’’ 
an idea of the birds most suitable for his aviary, 
I cannot do better than quote the names of 
those I keep in a cage similar to his own, viz., 
one cock goldfinch, one cock bullfinch, one pair 
of siskins, two cock linnets, one cock redpole, 
one hen canary, and one cock avadavat; these 
all agree well together. Much to my surprise 
the redpole and canary have paired together 
and are now building, and I believe the siskins 
have very serious intentions of following suit. 
Two males of any of the kinds I have mentioned, 
except the bullfinches, may be safely kept 
together. It was my first intention to have a 


[Mat 26 , 1883 . 


complete collection of English seed-eating biti, 
but I have never been able to make such birth ; 
as chaffinches, brnmblefinches, yellow hamreet, 
&c., behave themselves; they are wild and ct- 
manageable in an aviary, and completely upet - 
the otherwise happy family.—O bnithologlt, 

Qualls In aviary.— IT. L. G .~I kept ™ 
pairs of quails in my outdoor ariary for t»j 
years, and found 'them very satisfactory 
Although there were quite forty other birds 
(English and foreign) in the aviary, I never saw 
them attempt to peck even the weakest. They 
are rather mopish during the day, but very lively 
during the early morning and evening. If ; 
“ H. L. G.” wants to keep them healthy he mrst 
provide them with a sand bath, a few ants’ eggs 
occasionally, and a large piece of Grass or Clover 
turf once a week.—IV. M. 

Canary breeding.— I must entirely & i 
agree with Mr. Greene s opinion that canaries i 
do better with two heDs to one cock than it j 
pairs. As a canary breeder, my experience toils ; 
me that they do better in pairs, and I am sore 
they will bring stronger offspring. Mr. Greets 
may get a bird or two more by his plan (but 1 
am not sure about that). I have got less by re> 
doing. On account of the cock not being with 
the hen at the proper time, the hen will lay very « 
often when the young are only three weeks cli 5 
without showing any signs of nesting, while the 
cock is with the other hen. Of course tfcl> - 
means a nest of eggs spoiled, which is a te 1 
But supposing he should be with the hen. Is 
will never feed them after he had been taka 
away from them and paired with another, v c 
it would be a poor look-out for the young ore 
while the hen was sitting, whilst if he has re 1 
been taken away, it matters very little howra : j 
she goes to nest, as the cock will bring them cf i 2 
Mr. Greene may say “ Kun both hens in on : 
cage.” If he does this, it is not often that they t 
will agree, because as soon as one has mails > 1 

nest, the other will rob it to make her own I a 
like to see every egg good, not half of them hi j 5 
I am surprised that Mr. Greene should say tfcu j 3 
canaries do better without boiled egg than wit: i ■ 
it—that is not my opinion. I never give bsih ; 5 
to sitting hens, as they are often kept 08 iis 
eggs too long while they are drying themsete 
—J. Peabman, Sutton Coldfield . 

Birds in large cage. — “ Omitbolof-; 
has quite mistaken my meaning: I never mi 
birds were not kept in small cages a few ’ttba 
square, for I know they are, and if Ihad my will 
I would make it penal for any one to so torture th 
poor helpless little things. How would "Ornitb. 
logist,” like to be confined for the remains: 
of his life in a tiny room in which he could barely 
turn round ? And are not birds sensitive heir:-'- 
well as men ? One foot frontage (not 1 foot sqo..n 1 
should be allowed to each bird, and it is nothing 
but cruelty to keep ten poor birds in such aop 
as “Ornithologist” describes. That tier »' 
keep their health and that perfection of plump 
which constitutes the chief charm of a bird under 
such conditions, I do not believe: it is sunpf 
impossible. If the amateur has only mcow* 
dation for one bird, let him not attempt (0 k«p 
two, and so on, for it is much better to have w 
bird in fine health and feather, than two dirty, 
miserable looking things.—W. T. GbeenK, : ■ 
F.Z.S. 

Management of parrots — In reply« 

“ Anxious," relative to management of part 1 - ' 

I have had one for years, and have fed it 
Indian corn, with now and then a little 
seed, and always a tin of clean water. I r! 
give it flesh meat, bnt it likes a chicken bon®- 
lost two parrots by feeding them on bread 
water. I keep the cage perfectly clean, 
plenty of sand at the bottom. To teach a p- 
to talk is only a matter of time ana pan 
but by repeating the same words, t. 

“ Pretty Polly,” “ Good bye," sc., it 
learn.— E. II. B. I 

Japanese nightingale— 
have had a Japanese nightingale aw ” 6 • e 
I feed him entirely on food supplied on PJH}, 
for him by Etable, of 166, Great Portland ai^ 
London, where I purchased him. " els . ‘ („ 
feet health, his plumage beautiful, and .“ M j 

me every morning. He enjoys a bath dm y 

is very partial to fruit, of which we gi' e 
good deal.—E. H. ..,1 j 

Building an aviary.- tb«»W 

Gardekikq ol July 22,18SS, and you *1“” nl 
thing thoroughly explained. 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Yol. V. 

JUNE 2, 1883. 

No. 221. 

1 1 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

{Continued from page 138.) 


BEDS OF SUMMER AND AUTUMN 
FLOWERS. 

The bedding system, as it was understood and 
carried out fifteen or twenty years ago, is being 
gradually refined away, and it is never likely 
again, at least in our day, to obtain the hold over 
people’s minds it once possessed ; and those who 
have shaken themselves free from its toils are 
wondering what they could have seen in it to 
make so much fuss about, though it may 
linger in a limited degree in large places and in 
public gardens and parks, where they seek to 
catch the public eye, for some time longer; and 
in point of fact, in our gloomy, often foggy, 
climate, I don’t see what there is to object to in 
a mass of warm-coloured flowers anywhere, if 
moderation be observed. What so disgusted think- 
ng people was the outrageous manner in which 
3eds of Pelargoniums and Calceolarias, and similar 
things, were stuck about in every vacant spot, 
o the exclusion of better things. If the bedding 
system had been confined within the limits it 
iad risen to, say thirty-five or forty years ago, 
L n well-managed gardens, there would have been 
little to complain of. It was the craze which 
ifterwards set in that led to the rooting up of 
*0 many good old things, which has caused the 
present strong reactionary wave. People, other¬ 
wise sensible, seemed to have run wild upon this 
dea of bedding out. Only a dozen years ago 
little bits of variegated Geraniums that might 
oe taken away in one’s waistcoat pocket were 
worth, according to the nurserymen’s price lists, 
several guineas each But a better, healthier 
;ime has come, thanks in a great degree to the 
ixertions of one gentleman (Mr. Wm. Robinson), 
who at first almost single-handed commenced an 
mergetic attack upon the extravagant folly of 
he times, so far, at least, as it referred to and 
iad an influence upon gardening. But that folly 
s nearly dead, and is not likely to be resuscitated, 
o I need not waste words over it. But, as I have 
ilready said, a bed, or even a group of beds, of 
>right-flowered exotics may often be used with 
dvantage to give warmth in our damp climate 
n association with other quieter tints. This 
Lhing is pretty well understood even in the best 
managed gardens. It would be difficult to find 
i good garden where the rein was given so 
freely as was formerly the case to lavish displays 
of colour. In hundreds of country gardens 
bright green turf now occupies the site of the 
ribbon borders and polychrome patterns of the 
past, and enquiries are everywhere heard about 
good hardy plants and shrubs. This is on all 
hands deserving of encouragement, as denoting a 
healthier state of public taste and feeling, and 
this, too, must be my excuse, if any be needed, 
for the prominence I have giveD, and shall 
continue to give, to hardy subjects in these notes. 

There is no reason why beds devoted to the 
bedding system, pure and simple, should not 
always be full of flowers. If the design, from its 
size, entails too much labour to keep up a suces- 
sion of flowering plants, it is clear that the de¬ 
sign is too large, and should be reduced. It will 
be far more satisfactory, if we are to have a 
gToup of beds devoted to bedding out, that its 
size should be well within our means. Half-a- 
dozen beds well filled will afford more pleasure 
than a dozen badly done. Intricacy of design is 
in every way a mistake, as simple, graceful forms 
are the most pleasing, and anything which is 
placed in a prominent position should be calcu¬ 
lated to give pleasure under all conditions and 
circumstances. One never tires of a circle or 
an oval, and such simple figures are easily 
planted, and will fit in appropriately every¬ 
where. A group of beds, whether a true geo¬ 
metrical pattern or simply a combined group 
of ovals and circles, if they occupy a prominent 
position, should in spring overflow with bulbs, 
tansies, Daisies, Wallflowers, and autumn-sown 
annuals. There is nothing easier than to obtain 
a K°od spring display, as the materials are 
abundant, and, being hardy,are not costly. After 
hie spring flowers are cleared off in May, the 
beds should be prepared for/ftoexotics, and tjhis 

D' Go gre 


preparation is an important matter. I know of 
several instances of friends whose summer beds 
failed because they had for the moment for¬ 
gotten that land that is always at work must 
have very liberal treatment. After the spring 
flowers are removed to the rubbish heap, or in 
some cases to the reserve garden, dress the beds 
heavily with compost in which charred refuse 
forms a part.-1 find this better than all manures; 
it fills the cracks of the soil between the clods, 
and the roots of the plants seem to work in it 
so freely. Often in May the land that has been 
under crop in spring turns up rough and dry, 
and os the beds cannot be long exposed for the 
air to perform the amelioration, something must 
be added that will at once give tone to the soil, 
and, by blending with it, destroy its harsh outline 
and character. Charred refuse mixed with earth 
and leaf-mould meets the difficulty thoroughly. 

Beds of different coloured Pansies are very 
pretty in spring, and if they are well attended 
to they blossom well into the summer. Blue 
King, Golden Bedder, Magpie, and Blanche 
make a nice selection, though the latter, I be¬ 
lieve, is a Viola. Daisies are indispensable in 
any spring bedding arrangement, white and pink 
at least. The Forget-me-nots and double yellow 
Wallflowers make a nice showy contrast; the 
Polyanthus, the Primrose, and Alpine Auricula 
for partially shaded spots, and bulbs and autumn- 
sown annuals everywhere. 

We need not say much about the tender exotics, 
as everybody must be familiar with beds of Pelar¬ 
goniums. Of late years the progress has been 
chiefly in one direction, namely, trying to ob¬ 
tain Pelargoniums with large trusses of flowers, 
Though this may be right for plants in pots 
under glass, smaller trussed varieties are better 
adapted for our showery climate. I still keep a 
few of the old Tom Thumb, though otherwise I 
am so much under the influence of fashion as 
to grow the large trusses, but whenever rough 
weather comes on Tom is to the front and seems 
to enjoy it, whilst the fair weather kinds, with 
their immense trusses, rush up into growth and 
their flowers fail to open. During the last few 
years various expedients have been adopted with 
the view of breaking np the flat, dumpy, 
monotonous masses of colour in our gardens, the 
most successful being the introduction of tall 
plants, at more or less wide intervals, among the 
dwarf plants, the latter, in fact, being used to 
form the undergrowth, and sometimes this is 
done with foliaged plants, but generally now 
flowers are in the ascendant. I here give a few 
examples of those beds which pleased me most 
last year:—No. 1, hardy herbaceous white 
Phloxes, with a groundwork of dwarf blue Agera- 
tums; No. 2, Lythrum rosenm superbum ; ground¬ 
work white variegated Geraniums; No. 3, Per¬ 
petual Carnations and dwarf Chrysanthemum 
Asters; No. t, white Paris Daisy and bright 
lake-coloured Tom Thumb Nasturtium; No. 5, 
Acer Negundo variegatum and scarlet Vesuvius 
Geranium; No. 6, tall blue Lupin and Harri¬ 
son’s Musk. It will be noticed that the plants 
named are mostly common enough and easily 
obtained. Mariy ether examples might be cited, 
but it is hardly necessary. Those who like foliage 
might use the Castor-oils, Acacia lophantha, 
Grevillea robusta, Cannas, Solanums, &c., instead 
of flowering plants, or by way of a change. 
Mixed beds of two or more plants to make a 
change are lightsome and cheering. Everybody 
must be familar with the shot-silk mixture of 
the late Donald Beaton’s—purple Verbenas and 
Manglesi Pelargonium ; but there are plenty of 
effective mixtures. Heliotrope and Abutilon 
Thompsoni being one, and Heliotrope and Gladio¬ 
lus Brenchleyensis being another. A very sweet 
and effective mixture may be formed with Mig¬ 
nonette and scarlet or pink Geraniums, the 
Mignonette to be pinched in occasionally to keep 
it within bounds. Viola Bine Perfection and 
white variegated Geranium Flower of Spring 
always attract attention, and the old Viola cor- 
nuta, mixed with Mrs. Pollock or some of the 
golden tricolors, are equally quiet and effective. 
There are many kinds of hardy plants which will 
form very effective masses alone and unaided. 
The Antirrhinums or Snapdragons, sown in heat 
in spring, pricked off when large enough, and 


planted out finally in May, are quite a novel fea¬ 
ture. After the usual way ot filling the beds 
has tired one out, Pent-stemons from seed are 
quite as effective treated in the same way, 
planted about a footapart, and pinched in a little 
at first. 

As an autumn flower, the Lobelia fulgens lias 
few equals. I like to plant it thinly over a 
carpet of some low-growing plants with either 
golden foliage or flowers—the Golden I'yrgthrum 
has often been used for this purpose, and the 
low-gTowing Golden Mesembryanthemum forms 
a good foil to the dark foliage and elegant habit 
of the Lobelia. The Rudbeckias speciosa and 
Newmanni, Tritomas grand! flora and glaucescens. 
The autumn-flowering Anemones from Japan 
are unequalled. We had, I was told, the best 
mass of these last year to be seen for miles 
around. It was quite a feature from August till 
the frost came. Fuchsias may with advantage 
receive more attention, the old hardy Riccartoni 
being exceedingly graceful and pretty. Fuchsia 
globosa, mounted on short stems like we used to 
have them years ago, are very effective over a 
low contrasting groundwork of white or golden 
foliage. Fuchsia Rose of Castile may be as 
effectively employed with light blue Lobelias. 
Masses of the Celandine tree, or the Giant Knot- 
weed, will always present a striking feature in 
autumn. Clumps of Lavender and Pampas 
Grass, isolated on the Grass, are always effective ; 
andamong foliaged plants which are easily raised, 
Cannas and Castor-oil plants are cheap, the 
latter from seed and the former by seeds and 
division of the roots. The roots may either remain 
in the groundall win ter covered deeply with litter, 
or be taken up before frost sets in and placed on 
the border of the orchard house, or some cool 
structure where the frost is only just kept out. 
Single Dahlias pegged down make excellent 
bedding plants for large masses, and they may 
be treated as annnals, saving seeds from the 
best flowers, sowing them early in March in the 
hotbed, and planting out about the third week 
in May. Except for the purpose of perpetuating 
some special flower, there is no particular ad¬ 
vantage in saving the old roots, or in buying 
named sorts for merely bedding purposes, as 
seedlings are very effective, only they cannot be 
relied on to come true to colour, as seeds savod 
from a white or yellow flower may produce 
plants bearing flowers of many shades of colour. 
With the aid of 

Hardy Plants and Annuals, 

A very pretty garden may be had without 
going to the expense of keeping a single plant 
through the winter under glass. Beds of Stocks, 
Asters, Phlox Drommondi, dwarf Scabious, 
Chinese Pinks, Marigolds, Violas, Verbenas, Pe¬ 
tunias, Zinnias, Mignonette, Antirrhinums, Pent- 
stemons, single Dahlias, Tom Thumb Nastur¬ 
tiums, and the annual Chrysanthemums, with 
the different varieties of Calliopsis, will make a 
very pretty garden, more refined in aspect than 
if filled full of glaring colours. With a heap of 
fermenting materials in March, and a few frames 
or some old boards and lights to shelter and 
protect the young seedlings whilst tender, ten 
thousand, or at least enough plants for a good 
sized garden, may be raised for a comparatively 
small cost—at least, for a much less sum than 
by any other system. No great amount of heat 
is required to start all the seeds named towards 
the end of March, as the sun, with the aid of 
glass, will do most of the work. The seeds should 
be sown moderately thin in pans or pots. I cover 
with sand, as I find the young seedlings push so 
easy through it, as it never cakes. I have, for 
the same reason, often used the fine dust from 
the coke heap, and finely sifted ashes will do as 
well. This kind of covering prevents damping, 
and when pricked off the stems of the little 
plants come out clean and wiry. As soon as 
they are large enough to handle properly, give 
more ventilation to harden them for two or three 
days, then prick off an inch or so apart in boxes. 
I like boxes, because the little plants do not dry 
up so fast if hot weather sets in before they are 
planted out, and it economises space, as quite a 
small box will hold from 100 to 150 plants. 
Many of the biennials may be induced to flower 



148 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Juke 2, 1881. 


the same year if the seeds be sown early in heat 
—Hollyhocks, for instance, and Foxgloves. 
Many of the annual flowers are wet weather 
plants. The Asters, Violas, Marigolds, Chinese 
Pinks, and Phlox Drummondi seem all the 
brighter for a good washing, and in wet seasons 
when the scarlet Geraniums have had all the 
brightness washed out of them, the annuals have 
been glorious. Nothing in the shape of mois¬ 
ture seems to hurt the Zinnias, and if flowers 
are required for cutting, the annuals again come 
to the front. But many of the less prominent 
annuals are very beautiful, and, if justice were 
done, they would be more lasting than they gene¬ 
rally are. Take, for instance, the Candytufts; 
there is quite a variety of colours in the family 
now—carmine, crimson, purple, and white, and 
if sown thinly and singled out afterwards till 
each plant has a space of 8 inches square all to 
itself, a lasting and really choice display will be 
obtained. And the same thing will occur with 
nearly all other annuals. And if the seeds are 
picked off as fast as they form, many of the 
best and showiest annuals will continue to pro¬ 
duce successions of blossoms through the greater 
part of the summer. Take the case of Sweet 
Peas; as a rule, when they begin to form seed- 
pods, the flowers cease to come, because the ob¬ 
ject of the plant’s existence (namely, perpetua¬ 
tion) has been accomplished; but if the seeds 
are cut off, the plant puts forth crop after crop 
of blossoms until its strength is quite exhausted, 
and for this reason in cutting Sweet Peas for the 
vases in the rooms, instead of cutting single 
trusses, I cut off large sprays, which stimulates 
the plants to make new growth, and so a life of 
continual activity is encouraged. 

Annuals for Mixed Borders. 

The following are very pretty for the mixed 
border, or for filling in anywhere Abronia um- 
bellata, Acroclinium roseum, Sweet Alyssum, 
Bartonia aurea, Collinsia bicolor, Clarkia, double 
purple, Candytuft, various, Calendula meteor, 
Chrysanthemum coronarinm, C. double golden, 
Convolvulus minor, Coreopsis Drummondi, 
Cyanus (Cornflowers) major and minor, Devil- 
in-a-bush (Nigella), Dianthus (Chinese Pinks) 
in variety, Gilia, purple and white, Godetia The 
Bride, G. Princess of Wales, and others. Gail- 
lardia grandiflora, Gypsophila elegans. Hawk- 
weed, red and white, Kaulfussia ameloides, Lep- 
tosiphon roseus, L. aureus, Lupins in variety, 
Larkspur in variety, Linaria aureo purpurea, 
Linum grandiflorum rubrum, Love-lies-bleeding, 
Mignonette spiral, Nemophila insignis, N. macu- 
lata. Nasturtium Tom Thumb varieties, Papaver 
umbrosa. The double Poppies are exceedingly 
showy, and if the seed pods are constantly re¬ 
moved, a succession of flowers is kept up for 
some time. Portulaca, mixed, very pretty for 
rockwork, Saponaria calabrica, S. alba, Sweet- 
peas, Salpiglossis, various, Sunflower, tall double, 
very effective for back of borders, Eschscholtzia 
mandarin, Sphierogyne speciosa, Viscaria cardi- 
nalis, Virginian Stock, Tropieolum canariense 
(Canary creeper). To this list should be added 
a few Everlastings, including Helichrysums, 
various, Xeranthemnms, white and purple, 
Rodanthe maculata, Helipterum corymbiflorum, 
Ammobium alatum grandiflorum, and the fol¬ 
lowing ornamental Grasses, which are so desi¬ 
rable for mixing with cut flowers : Agrostis 
nebulosa, Anthoxanthum gracile, Briza gracilis, 
B. maxima, Bromus brizseformis, Eragrostis ele¬ 
gans, Hordenm jubatum, Lagurus ovata, Paspa- 
lum elegans, Pennisetum longistylum, Stipa 
elegantissima. 

The germination of seeds is mainly a question 
of preparation of the seed bed. When seeds fail 
to grow it is generally the fault of the sower. 
There are instances, I know, where the seeds 
have lost their vital principle before the seeds 
reach the sower, and of course no amount of 
care will cause a dead seed to germinate. In 
the case of a new plant much sought after, a 
good deal of useless stuff is palmed off as a 
sound article, I know, but as a rule it does not 
pay a seedsman to send out bad seeds. There¬ 
fore, if seeds fail, except it may be in the case 
of some novelty in great demand, the cause is 
usually to be found in the manipulation of the 
sower. Some flower seeds are very small, and if 
these are scattered over a rough, steely surface 
and scratched over with a rake, they perish 
without a chance of germinating. But if the 
surface had been sprinkled over with a thin 
covering of lighL-sapdy compost to form a 

D Iti:, I Go gle 


bed for the seeds to lie on, and a further 
light sprinkling afterwards as a covering, 
and the back of the spade pressed on them 
gently to make the surface a little firm—if the 
seeds have any vitality in them they certainly 
will grow. Again, some people are over-anxious 
about earliness; they forget the value of the old 
proverb, “ The more haste the less speed,” and 
they sow too early, and the little plants perish 
almost before life has commenced with them. 
The first week in April is quite early enough to 
sow flower seeds in the open border. 

E. Hobday. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


TUBEROUS-ROOTED BEGONIAS. 

The increasing popularity of these proves their 
great value as decorative plants ; but, much as 
they are cultivated, they deserve to be still 
better known, for not only are they of great ser¬ 
vice for the embellishment of conservatories 
and greenhouses, but they are also useful for 
bedding, and among the very best plants that 
can be had for windows in dwelling-houses, 
where they succeed Well, and flower in the 
greatest profusion. 

In windows. —Plants in windows generally 
get killed by over-kindness in giving too much 
water; but with these Begonias there is no fear 
of that, as they are moisture-loving subjects, 
and unless they actually stand in saucers of 
water they can scarcely be kept too wet, espe¬ 
cially when they become pot-pound and are 
blooming freely—a time when there is a great 
demand on the roots. Besides their adapta¬ 
bility for window culture, they are not subject 
to insects, like other plants — a circumstance 
greatly in their favour; and when once they be¬ 
gin to flower, they keep on and last in beauty 
the whole season through As they are apt to 
draw if put in windows too early, it is best to 
start them and get them forward in cold frames, 
where they should be placed on a cool moist 
bottom, and have a little shade during the sun¬ 
niest part of the day. Thus treated, their pro¬ 
gress will be rapid, and they will keep sturdy 
and strong. If wanted large, the points of the 
shoots may be nipped out, which will cause them 
to break back and become well furnished. 

Planted out. —If wanted for bedding, seed¬ 
lings may be purchased cheaply; but as these 
are small, it is advisable to get year-old plants, 
and pay a little more for them, as they fill the 
beds sooner, and give the most satisfactory 
results. In preparing the beds, plenty of well- 
decomposed manure and leaf-mould should be 
dug into them, and after turning the plants out 
it is necessary to shelter and shade them for a 
few days. This may easily be done by sticking 
in a few Laurel or other evergreen branches 
among them, and these will keep off sun and 
wind sufficiently to enable them to start fairly 
and get a firm hold. Although Begonias will do 
very well in exposed positions, the situation that 
suits them best is a partially shaded one; but, 
wherever planted, it is important that they 
be mulched, so as to keep the ground shaded and 
the plants moist at the roots. This can best be 
done by the use of Cocoanut-fibre, a good non-con¬ 
ductor of heat; but, failing the fibre, sifted 
leaf-soil or broken-up horse manure answers the 
purpose as well. To encourage Begonias to grow 
and bloom freely, they must be supplied with 
water regularly when the weather is dry; and if 
they get a soaking of liquid manure occasionally 
it will be a great help. 

Afteb flowering. —Late in autumn, when 
the flowering is over, the plants should be lifted 
and laid in cold frames, where the tubers can be 
covered with dry soil and preserved from frost, 
or they may be buried in sand or dry earth in a 
shed, and wintered in the same way as Dahlias. 
Those grown in pots are best left undisturbed in the 
soil till the spring, when they may be shaken out 
and divided, and afterwards repotted and grown 
on again. Tuberous Begonias may also be in¬ 
creased by cuttings made from the points of the 
young shoots, but these shonld be put in as soon 
as they can be got in summer. If placed in sharp 
sandy soil in deep pans, and placed under hand- 
lights in a shady spot, they root freely, provided 
they have only just enough water to keep them 
from flagging. S. D. 

Greenhouse climbers.— Let roe heartily 
commend to all possessing a small greenhouse ' 


and needing for it a charming climber, that 
beautiful scarlet Honeysuckle, Lonicera semper 
virens. It is almost hardy, indeed, will do xeli 
with a little protection in winter if planted 
against a south wall; but its best place is in si 
ordinary greenhouse, where, trained up the back 
wall or up a rafter and over the roof, it doe- 
well, and is almost perpetually in bloom. The 
flowers are trumpet-shaped, and are borne in 
good-sized clusters on long stems. Those wko 
require some charming and rich-coloured floten 
for catting, will be delighted with this Honey¬ 
suckle. It may easily be increased by mean- oi 
suckers, which break out from the roots, and 
also by ordinary cuttings put in under a bell- 
glass in a gentle heat. A few tacks or ties suffice 
to keep the plant in position, and, neatly trainee, 
it is one of the most charming true climbers tre 
have. The plant also makes a beautiful specimen 
grown in a large pot and trained loosely rounds 
globe-shaped trellis, as the clusters of bloom set 
out with good effect. Another plant that ii 
singularly suited for a greenhouse back wall, is 
the pretty pale blue flowered l’lnmbago capensii 
It is not so well suited to make a climber ask 
the Honeysuckle, but it does capitally eith« 
against a wall or tied np round an nprigbi 
column or support of any kind. The flowers arc 
borne in trusses like those of a l’lilox, and on 
long stems, so that it is most useful to fnrnbi 
cut flowers. The plants need only an ordinal 
greenhouse temperature, although bloomit, 
earlier if in a gentle warmth in the spring. This 
Plumbago is a very free bloomer, and need- 
bat little attention beyond keeping the shoou 
tied or nailed in.—A. D. 

Gladioli In pots. —These brilliant autumt 
flowers succeed well in pots,and are very snitabk 
for those who have but a limited amount of glas, 
and yet like to have plants in bloom for oonsem 
tory and indoor decoration. Procure good bulb ) 
and pot them in a mixture of chopped turf, pea: 
leaf-mould, and sand. One good strong bulb will ! 
send up at least two spikes of flower, and fill » 
6-inch pot well; but if medium sized bulbs arc 
used, three or five bulbs may be used in pots c: 
proportionately larger size. Cover them withcoa. 
ashes out-of-doors, and let them remain until 
growth is active ; then take them out, set in a 
cold pit, and hasten or retard them according to 
the period at which they are required to fiove: 

If striking masses of colourare desired, G. Bread- 
leyensis is one of the most striking, but for or¬ 
dinary purposes the mixed colours of unnunei 
seedlings are preferred, and are, moreover, much 
cheaper than named sorts. When flowering is o'er 
they may be set out-of-doors and kept moderately 
dry until the foliage dies off, when they may be 
shaken out, repotted, and plunged in ashes as be¬ 
fore. J has treated, they will flower several years 
in succession.—J. G. 

Cobsea acandens variegata — The 

variegation of some plants is either sickly, in¬ 
constant, or so ill-defined as to render them a 
source of disappointment rather than of plea¬ 
sure. In many cases, too, the natural growth cf 
the plant is weakly, a fact easily comprehended 
seeing that the white portion of the leaf it 
devoid of chlorophyll, or colouring matter, and 
can, therefore, exercise but little influence upon 
the production of roots. The variegated Cobsea 
is, however, in every way a satisfactory plant to 
grow, each leaf being beautifully and distinctly 
marked, and the plant itself grows so freely as 
to quickly cover any reasonable amount of 
alloted space. For covering a back wall of a 
greenhouse, for clothing pillars, and training up 
the rafters of lofty conservatories, this plant ha- 
few equals, and it is also valuable as a basket 
plant.—J. Cornhill. 

Useful basket Ferns— Asplenium fiacci' 
dum may not, probably, be the best Fern for a 
basket, but it is certainly a very good one. V 
grows freely, and its graceful, arching frond s 
render it peculiarly attractive. It is the best. Fern 
for brackets with which I am acquainted. If any¬ 
one has a dark back wall in a fernery or conser¬ 
vatory where few other plants will grow, they 
cannot do better than put np a few brackets, 
secure some plants of this Fern in pots, and put 
them on them. When we required something 
here a few years ago to hide an unsightly wadi 
we adopted this plan, using 8-inch pots for the 
plants, which produced graceful, drooping fronds 
more than 3 feet loDg in the space of three 
years. It may be useful to remark that while 
this Fern will thrive in a moderately warm tern- 



.Junk 2, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILL USTRA1 ED 


149 


peratnre, it will do equally well in a house where 
fire heat is only applied to keep out frost. I find 
that it. grows well in a soil composed of peat 
and loam in equal parts, mixed with a fair pro¬ 
portion of sand. When grown on brackets, as 
soon as the soil gets full of roots, the pots should 
stand in saucers. If saucers are not used the 
plants will not thrive so well, unless extra atten¬ 
tion is paid to the watering. If the baskets or 
brackets are numerous, and variety is wanted, 
Asplemum bulbiferum makes a suitable change. 
In habit and growth it is very similar to flacci- 
dum, and yet quite distinct.—C. C. 

9765.— Plants for Show. —In growing 
plants for exhibition, very much of the success 
looked for must depend upon the means at dis¬ 
posal for growing them. A small greenhouse or 
frame offers much greater facility than does a 
window, and where the means at disposal are 
not known, it is not at all easy to advise as to 
procedure. A Petunia should now be a strong 
plant in a 8-inch pot, and its shoots have been 
pinched back once. As soon as it seems root- 
bound it must be shifted into a rather larger 
pot and be again pinched back; in fact it will, 
prior to the show, need yet one more shift, pro¬ 
bably, and must be again pinched, and by the end 
of June it may be left to grow and bloom 
freely. A Fuchsia must be treated in much the 
same way, and have about a month from the last 
pinching to let it get well into bloom. A Lobelia 
had better be cut over now, and be thus in¬ 
duced to make fresh growths all over. It will 
then, in a proper sized pot, have a good head of 
bloom in July. Musk also must have ample pot 
room for the roots, and be kept pinched to cause 
it to be a small mass of leaves and flowers at 
t he needed time. All the plants will need ample 
exposure to the sun, but the pots should be pro¬ 
tected from its rays. British Ferns should thrive 
well in a cool, deep frame, being shaded during 
the prevalence of hot sunshine, as they are 
naturally lovers of shady places.—A. D. 


OLD FUCHSIAS. 

Besides the endless number of Fuchsias which 
come under the head of florists’ flowers, there are 
many original species that deserve attention; 
for although possibly not so showy as the 
liorists' Fuchsias, yet many of them possess both 
grace and beauty, and others quaint and curious 



flowers, while large and showy blossoms are 
furnished by Buch kinds as corymbiflora and 
fulgens. Borne of them, too, flower in winter, 
noteworthy amongst which are spleDdens and 
serratifolia; some hybrids, too, lately raised are 
very valuable in this respect. F. corymbiflora 
is stout and vigorous in growth, producing great 
pendulous bunches of long-tubed scarlet flowers, 
rendering a well-grown plant of it a bold and 
striking object when in blossom, and scarcely 
less so when the flowers are succeeded by large 
oblong reddish purple berries. Being a strong 
- r0 *er, the most suitable place for this Fuchsia is 
planted out in a oool house in which there is 
plenty of room for it to develop itself; it may 
also be grown as an upright bush secured to a 
’ingle stake, or used for covering pillars, roofs, 
and similar places. F. fulgens is likewise 
vigorous In habit, but more oompaot than 
coiyablflora, therefore it may be grown In 
P° ta l hut it, t’.evUrth«l«'rs 1/ Aow*rs much acre 

DigitizedbTGOOgle 


freely where it has sufficient top and root room 
to enable it to attain a good size. Of this there 
is a variety called multiflora pumila that is very 
compact and free flowering, and therefore more 
suitable for pot culture than the common form. 
The old F. gracilis is generally looked upon in 
the light of a hardy herbaceous plant, being 
killed as a rule down to the roots in winter, and 
pushing up fresh shoots again in spring. Huge 
bushes of it may be seen out-of-doors in the 
south and west of England, and very beautiful 
they are, but even where not hardy, it would be 
difficult to select a plant to surpass it for 
covering the pillars or roofs of conservatories. 
Under such circumstances the blossoms hang 
down in the greatest profusion, and as they 



Fuchsia fulgens. 


continue to be produced during the whole of the 
summer, even few Fuchsias approach it as 
regards duration of flowering. There is a form 
of it in which the leaves are edged with creamy 
white, but on the whole the ordinary kind is the 
best. F. microphylla is a veritable pigmy, but, 
nevertheless, when grown in pots in the form of 
compact little bushes about 10 inches high and 
thickly studded with miniature blossoms, it is 
very pretty for covering pillars. A nearly allied 
species (F. thymifolia) is to be preferred, as it is 
of stronger growth, although the flowers and 
foliage are as small as in t he case of microphylla. 


Zonal Pelargoniums in spring.—A 

few nicely-flowered zonals are a fine addition to 
the conservatory in the early spring months, for 
with all the wealth of material at our command 
now-a-days, there is nothing that can quite equal 
the scarlet Geranium in brilliancy. Cuttings 
put in now strike readily in a cool greenhouse, 
and these, if grown along during the summer in 
the open air and not allowed to bloom, will 
make line specimens for next spring.— Byfleet. 

9768.— Palms and Oranges from 
seeds. —Place single seeds one inch deep in 
2J inch pots, using sandy loam for soil; place 
in a hotbed, or, failing that, on a warm shelf in a 
greenhouse; place a piece of glass over, and keep 
moist. They must never become dry during 
germination. I have seven young seedlings of 
the Tangerine Orange an inch high, all in a 
4-inch pot. I got them up in a cold frame in 
the hottest part of the garden; they were sown 
in February with some date stones, but there is 
no sign of the latter at present. Being much 
harder, they will take considerably longer to 
germinate. They are slow of growth, requiring 
a moist, warm atmosphere to bring them on 
quickly, such as a brisk hotbed. They will Deed 
protection from frost. Of frait bearing I am un¬ 
able to say, but the foliage and flowers, I under¬ 
stand, are enough in themselves.—J. T. F. 


Bones for drainage. — When potting 
plants, I used to put an oyster-shell in the bottom 
of the pot as a crock, but as I had sometimes 
difficulty In getting shells, I now U6e beef bones 
instead. When a rib of beef comes to the 
table I put the bones aside, and as these 
accumulate I saw them into lengths of 2 inches, 
more or less, to suit different sized pote ; these 
lie well In the bottom of the pot, and I see when 
I oome to repot that the roots are thlokly matted 
Wand the bone, and even penetrating the broken 


ends of it. From this I infer that the plant is 
deriving benefit from the bone. I hope someone 
will try the experiment and give us their ex¬ 
perience.—R. W. 


BOSES. 

STANDARD ROSES. 

W. G. J BWETT has drawn attention to another 
disadvantage|of standard Roses on Briers, namely 
their unsuitability for certain soils and situations. 
The English Brier will not thrive in smoke, 
neither will it do well in light soil or in an arid 
climate. Own-root.Roses, on the contrary, are 
far more adaptable, and will do fairly well 
where the Brier cannot live. In the valley of 
the Lea I have seen magnificent beds of budded 
Roses, tall standards in the centre, and dwarfs 
and bushes on the outside; hut these beds were 
filled with Roses only, and did not in any way 
represent the conditions under which the small 
amateur tries to grow standard Roses. These 
are not in almost any case placed in a bed by 
themselves where they receive proper cultivation, 
but are either planted in borders amongst other 
plants, in the centres of small beds, or, worst 
of all, are closed in up to their stems with turf. 
The result is in eaoh case mops and scarecrows. 
Now, the old Damask, Alba, Cabbage, and Moss 
Roses, which delighted our grandfathers, were 
grown in ordinary borders amongst hardy her¬ 
baceous plants. Where the soil is rich and the 
climate not too dry, the perpetuals and Bourbons 
will do on their own roots in the same fashion ; 
where the climate is drier, or the position 
elevated or sloping, the Teas, Noisettes, and 
Chinas will do in the same way. “ 8.” has mis¬ 
taken what I said about my own Roses. I have 
no fault to find with the quality or growth of 
my full size standards. It was the dwarf 
standards which were sent me instead of dwarfs 
which all refused to grew, being budded on old 
cut-down Briers. 

Those who want standard Roses which will be 
an ornament, and not a disfigurement, to their 
gardens, should in every case plant clean, healthy 
young Briers, and bud their own Roses. If they 
do not care to do that, they should visit a Rose 
nursery and select their own plants. 

“ A Practical Man ”is rightin saying that stan¬ 
dard Roses fail through unsuitable planting and 
bad soil. They also fail through unsuitable posi¬ 
tions. The unnatural style of garden “ A Practical 
Man” says most villa gardeners prefer, runs 
people into every species of failure. They take 
a Brier stick with a Rose budded on the top of 
it, and instead of placing it where it will be 
sheltered and partially shaded, as in a state of 
nature, they set it singly where it is exposed to 
blazing sunshine and biting frost winds. How 
can it be expected to thrive ! They buy climbiDg 
Roses budded on stocks, and instead of a con¬ 
tinual succession of young rods from the root 
renewing the plant perennially, they get a 
climber all top and no bottom, and which never 
looks well. 

I need scarcely repeat that the standard Rose 
as a decorative feature belongs to a style of 
garden which may almost be called obsolete. 
So long as the Italian style of villa was the 
fashion there was some excuse forvases, statuary, 
terraces, pincushion beds, and standard Roses; 
bat now the taste of the public has turned in 
favour of the Queen Anne, or vernacular style of 
house, there is not the slightest excuse for that 
formal style of garden being continued. We 
want now big bush Roses on their own roots, 
not stiff standards. Bushes which we can inter¬ 
mix with suitable hardy plants and shrubs. We 
want inconspicuous walks for use and access 
only, not for ornament, so that the necessity has 
ceased for decorating the margins of those walks 
with beds of flowers. In fact what gardening is 
tending to is a general abandonment of the trim 
and the neat, and the introduction of a style in 
which every kind of plant can be grown with as 
little interference as possible with its natural 
habits. 

“ A Practical Man ” objects to my remarks 
about the globular form of Roses. No artist 
could object to the Roses he names. These afe 
not the globular Roses which are stiff and formal. 
Alfred Colomb has a little of the objectionable 
shape, and would be improved by the intide 6f 
the petals being more shown. The worst I have 
seen are Etienne Levee and Comteue de Cha- 
brillant, These with rot come like a sctd-niRfiV 


150 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[June 2, 1883. 


illustrations of Drumhead Cabbages. No person 
ean defend finch flowers as those on any artistic 
principle. The beauty spot of most dark Roses 
is the rich, velvety texture and colour of the 
petals. The finest feature of lighter Roses is the 
increase of colour caused by the light shining 
through the petals. In either case, a solid globe 
with the outer petals only a little turned over, 
is a bad form. 

The tendency of the new Roses, however, 
seems to be away from that formal shape. “ A 
Practical Man ” has discovered a novel objection 
to own root Roses, in that the second growth 
is going on while the first blooms are forming. 
I cannot say I have noticed anything of that 
kind ; the own root Roses seem to grow exactly 
as the budded plants in every respect. 

J. D. 


ASSISTING ROSES. 

With a view to stimulate growth a little, all 
Roses should now have several good soakings of 
manure water. It is a good plan to stir up the 
surface soil a few inches deep or remove some 
of the earth from the roots, so as to form a basin 
about 18 inches wide This will enable the roots 
to get the full benefit of what is given in the 
shape of liquid. When water is poured upon a 
hard, flat surface, a good deal of it runs to waste 
out of the reach of the roots. If strong, vigorous 
growth is required, the roots should have plenty 
of water from the time they commence to grow 
until the trees come into flower; and if the 
manure water given be made from animal 
manure, the growth will be stronger and the 
flowers larger and of higher colour than when 
only plain water is given. Two good soakings 
every week will be of great service to the plants. 
Pillar Roses and those trained to walls with 
their roots in narrow and shallow borders are 
often overlooked as regards watering. All 
through the summer months such plants should 
be watered as often as it is necessary to keep the 
soil moist about the roots the whole depth of the 
border. I am no great advocate for using arti¬ 
ficial manure for Roses; but still there are some 
which I have employed in a moderate way with 
advantage. When I have been short of manure 
water, I have given our Roses one dressing in 
May either of Amies’ chemical manure or Clay’s 
fertiliser, at the rate of two tablespoonfuls to 
each plant. The soil being first removed to the roots, 
the manure is then applied, the soil is put back 
in its place, and then each plant is gently watered 
with about two quarts of water. I find after several 
years’ trial that this answers very well. It is suffi¬ 
cient to promote a steady growth without creating 
undue luxuriance, for it should be borne in 
mind that it is soft, luxuriant growth that is 
the first to succumb to severe frost. All manures 
may be said to be beneficial to Roses up to a 
certain point, and so I have found it in practice. 
It therefore behoves us to be careful in the use 
of them. I have never known the free use of 
good, well-rotted manure from the farmyard or 
the hotbed do any harm, but I have had to re¬ 
pent using diluted guano and similar stimula¬ 
ting manures. True, the Roses made extraor¬ 
dinary growth, but it was so succulent and 
immatured when winter came that the first 
severe frost killed the greater portion of it. 

Mulching Roses. —Some half-rotten manure 
is very beneficial. A mulching of 2 inches or 
3 inches thick is not too much ; the surface should 
be pricked over with a fork 1 inch or 2 inches 
deep, and if the soil is dry it should be watered 
thoroughly before the mulching is put on. Under 
such treatment the plants will take care of them¬ 
selves for a week or two, i.e., if they are only 
intended for garden decoration. But growers 
for exhibition will need to keep constantly 
watching the state of the weather; if it should 
continue dry, root watering mnst not be ne¬ 
glected, although the surface may be mulched 
over. In watering mulched Roses it is a good 
plan to draw the manure aside first and then 
replace it when the watering is done. 

Rose maggots are plentiful, and we have set 
vigorously to work to pick them off. We do not 
stop to examine every curled leaf to find the 
maggot, because we know if it is not there at 
that particular moment that it has been, and 
that the leaf will be permanently disfigured, so 
we pick off everyone that we find curled— a sure 
sio-n that it dnp<? or has contained an enemy to 



dissolve half an ounce of Gishurst compound in 
a gallon of boiling water. When cold, we fill a 
saucer with it and dip the shoots that have green¬ 
fly upon them into the liquid, which soon settles 
the fly. J. G. C. 

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 


Extracts front a Garden Diary—June 4 to 
June 9. 

Sowing Ne Plus Ultra and British Queen Peas. Planting 
out Cardoons, also Wheeler s Imperial and Hartwell 
Early Marrow Cabbage plants. Thinning Onions and 
giving them a top-dressing of soot. Nailing in and tying 
Roses on walls, and washing them well in the evenings 
with the garden engine to keep down green-fly. Hoeing 
off all Raspberry suckers that are not required. Clipping 
Box edtrings. Pruning back superfluous wood on wall fruit 
trees, and nailing in the leading shoots. Picking the 
dead flowers eft Azaleas and placing them in greenhouse 
to make their growth. Sowing early Snowball and 
American Strap leaf Turnips. Planting out Autumn Sell- 
protecting Broccoli. Thinning out Parsley, Spinach, 
and Turnips. Sowing Broad Beans, Coleworts, and 
Spinach t>etween Currant bushes. Planting Asparagus, 
Buda Kale, and Couve Tronchuda. Thinning Pears on 
walls that have set too thickly, so as to leave two in a 
bunch. Sowing Broad-leaved Batavian and Green Curled 
Endive. Thinning shoots of Seakale plants. Taking up 
bulbs. Sowiug Scarlet Ruuner Beans to come in for a late 
crop. Planting out Brussels Sprouts and Celery. 

Giving main crops of Carrots a Anal thinuing, and 
running the Dutch hoe between them. Planting a border 
of Autumn Giant Cauliflower and Cottager’s Kale. Top¬ 
dressing Gardenias with a mixture of peat, loam, horse 
manure, and silver sand. Layering Strawberry runners. 
Sowing Wheeler’s Imperial and Hartwell Early Marrow- 
Cabbage to come in for September and October. Potting 
on Balsams, Chrysanthemums, and Heliotropes. Planting 
out Spiraeas and Deutzias. Planting out Lettuce plants. 
Mulching Peas with rotten manure. Planting Sweet 
Peas Gazanias, and Centaureas in flower garden, and 
April-sown Lettuces on Celery ridges. Thinning and 
transplanting Parsley: also thinning Leeks. Syringing 
outdoor Peach trees with clear water to keep off insects. 
Planting Vicomtesse H^ricartde Thury Strawberries that 
have been forced on a south border for autumn crop. 
Stopping and nailing in the Vines on walls. Potting 
Petunias for conservatory decoration; also Fuchsias, 
scarlet Pelargoniums, and Heliotropes. Planting out a 
few pot Roses and some April-sown Cauliflower plants, 
also lee plants. Earthing up Potatoes, Melons, and 
Cucumbers. Levelling land for winter greens. Going 
over wall fruit trees, and picking off curled leaves 
infested with insects. Thinning Carrots and Turnips, and 
putting short Grass between Strawberry plants. 

Glasshouses. 

Hard-wooded plants. — These in most 
cases will now be either carrying a crop of flowers 
or making growth vigorously, and will therefore 
need proportionately more moisture than in the 
winter, when they are comparatively dormant. 
With bright sun and drying winds, moisture gets 
quickly dried up independent of that which is ab¬ 
sorbed by the roots, and where the latter lie 
thickly packed against the inner surface of the 
pots, they are sure to suffer if there is an absence 
of moisture if only for a few hours. Give plants 
growing freely, or that are bringing forward a 
crop of flowers, enough water to support them. 
The freest growers require most moisture ; but 
all should have sufficient during the active 
season of growth to keep the roots moving well, 
being careful never to give any until enough is 
required to moisten the whole ball. 

WINTER-FLOWERING plants.— Amidst the 
many things that occupy one's time at this 
season it not unusually happens that the winter- 
flowering stock of such subjects as are annually 
propagated from cuttings does not get proper 
attention in the matter of pot room, the result 
being that the plants through getting cramped 
at the root do not grow freely afterwards. The 
different kinds of Begonia, Plumbago rosea, 
Salvias, and others of a similar character should, 
immediately 1 they require repotting, have prompt 
attention; the dimensions which the plants are 
required to attain will necessarily determine the 
size of the pots they are to occupy at the time 
of flowering. In the case of most things of a 
quick growing character, like the different plants 
under notice, it is not advisable to move them too 
often; consequently as soon as the young stock 
has fairly filled with roots the 3-inch or 4-inch 
pots they may now be supposed to be in, they 
may in most cases be moved to those in which 
they are intended to remain. Much may be 
effected by the constant nse of manure water 
from the time the soil gets pretty well occupied 
by the roots, provided there is no falling off in 
its application; in this way comparatively large, 
well-furnished plants can be grown and flowered 
in pots no bigger than would barely suffice to 
keep them alive without the aid of liquid manure, 
f pr-own tm ' r fiooiu'iili'c- rend 1 ':.' t* as 
1 r< ,aul.. Jig 1 . Guy v hi j,;:,k> st- , I>u-i.yyrov th 


that will often yield a greater quantity oi 
flowers than larger plants in bigger pots less 
favourably circumstanced. Attend to stopping 
the shoots of all those things that require to be 
so treated in order to insure a busby condition 
that will do with the least amount of sticks and 
ties, which should always bo looked upon as 
necessary evils to be used as sparingly as 
possible. 

PotNSETTIAS and Euphorbias. —If some of 
the old plants that were dried off after flowering 
were started a short time back, they will now 
have made shoots large enough for propagating; 
they should in all cases be taken off with a heel 
of old wood attached to them : cuttings thus 
secured will root in a fortnight in a brisk heat, 
but they mnst be kept sufficiently close and 
moist to prevent flagging. If very large heads 
are required, some of the old stools should be 
placed in larger pots—say 10 inches or 11 inches 
in diameter—and grown on with single stems, 
keeping them all through the season with their 
heads close to the glass, otherwise they get very 
tall. Smaller examples will often be found 
preferable to larger stock grown in the way 
described; but where there are large stoves to 
keep gay through the autumn and winter, big 
plants with their large heads associate best with 
other things amongst which they are placed 
Everything necessary to insure free growth 
should be done with the stock of Euphorbia 
jacquiniseflora, for the quantity of flowers forth¬ 
coming is dependent on the size and strength 
which the plants attain, and especially their 
ability to produce a second crop of bloom. 
Plenty of light and beat, with a little shade in 
the middle of the day, are essential to their 
well-being. 

Amaryllis.— Every needful attention should 
now be given to Amaryllis after they have 
flowered. Comparatively small pots suffice ; but 
still, root cramping must not be carried too far. 
or the bulbs will not attain their wonted size, 
and their increase by means of offsets will be 
less than if more vigour was infused into them. 
Where additional room is required, give pots at 
inch or two larger, using good yellow loam if 
it can be got, in all cases ramming the soil fcani 
in the pots and adding sand sparingly. Keep 
the stock sufficiently supplied with water at the 
roots, syringing freely every day to keep dost 
insects, and let the plants be fully exposed to 
the sun. 

Cinerarias —These, like Calceolarias, Primu¬ 
las, and some other plants that used to be all 
but exclusively propagated from suckers or bj 
division, are now so much improved that varie¬ 
ties good enough for any purpose can be had 
from seed. Amongst these it often happens Thai 
a few plants of unusual excellence make their 
appearance. In such cases it is well to preserve 
them. When the seed which they bear is ripe, 
the flower-stems should be cut away, and the 
plants turned out in light soil mixed with vege¬ 
table mould, selecting a place where they will 
not be exposed to the mid-day sun. So treated 
they will make abundance of suckers that can 
be taken off and potted. 

Flower Garden. 

Sub-tropical plants. — Having finished 
planting ordinary kinds of bedding plants, sub¬ 
tropicals should now be put out without further 
delay. As to arrangements, necessarily they 
must be varied according to plants at command, 
position of garden—sheltered or exposed—and 
size and shape of beds. My own opinion, con¬ 
firmed by practice, is that an entire bed of a 
species looks better than the incongruous 
mixtures that one sometimes sees; but this is 
a point that is best settled by each planter for 
himself. The following were among our most 
effective arrangements last year, some of which 
it is intended to repeat this; A large, oval¬ 
shaped bed of Ricinus Gibsoni, with central 
plant of R. Obermanni, undergrowth of Gn»- 
phalium lanatum, and edged with Cbamiepence 
Casabonai, or Green Thistle. A large circular 
bed had as a central plant Eucalyptus globulus, 
Wigandia caracasana over the whole bed, and 
an nndergrowth of Salvia argentea and Perilla 
nankinensis alternated. Another round bed had 
for a centrepiece a plant of Solanum gigantenm, 
next throe plants of Solanum marginatum, then 
filled out. with Solanum robnstum, the edging 
f'.d g - ’ffi' ; i l-n’idum n-dcnfntum 

I isds i/I Latina? nr. planted in mixture. n;> ( 

JNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Juke 2, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


151 


being taken that the tall kinds have the central 
places; an appropriate edging plant for these is 
I'cntaurca candidissima. Palms, Dracrenas, 
Acacia lophantha, and Yuccas look well in 
mixture, and a bed or two of these is desirable 
by way of variety. As soon as planted the plants 
should be staked and the surface mulched; there 
will then be no risk of a check either from 
drought or wind. 

Herbaceous and mixed flower borders. 
These are now very gay with Pyrethrums, 
Aquilegias, Campanulas, Delphiniums, Geums, 
Pjeonies, Potentillas, &c., all of which need an 
occasional overlooking as to ties and supports, 
the removal of dead flowers and weeds. Any 
open spaces should be filled up by the planting 
out of seedling biennials, such as Wallflowers, 
Sweet Williams, Canterbury Bells, and Delphi¬ 
niums, or, failing these, with Asters, Stocks, 
Zinnias, and Everlastings, and in back part of 
herders with single Dahlias, Sunflowers, and 
Hollyhocks for autumn flowering. Bulbous 
plants that have matured their growth should 
have their tops cleared away, and if time can be 
spared for such work—which, unfortunately, is 
very rarely the case—the bare places thus made 
should be refurnished by planting surface-rooting 
Sednms and Saxifrages. 

General work. —This now principally con¬ 
sists of mowing, clipping turf verges, Box edgings, 
the watering of lately-moved shrubs and Roses, 
and the syringing and washing of the latter to 
free them from blight, which is this season very 
prevalent. Keep bedded-ont plants well supplied 
with water, and peg into form all that need such 
attention. It will be an aid to quicker 
establishment and more profuse flowering of the 
plants if the flowers now showing on Calceolarias, 
Violas, Ageratums, Heliotropes, Pelargoniums, 
Verbenas, and Petunias be picked off, and the 
straggling growths of the plants pinched back. 

Fruit. 

Vines.— Gradually reduce the temperature in 
early bouses in which the Grapes are quite ripe, 
and maintain a fresh, healthy atmosphere, by 
damping floors, and by giving just enough gentle 
fire-heat to admit of a free circulation of air. 
Cleanse the foliage with clean water as the 
Crapes are cut, and stop any extra strong growths 
to encourage a general break of laterals all over 
the Vines. Succession houses in which the fruit 
is now colouring may have more air whenever 
the weather is favorable, and a nice circulation 
throughout the night will be highly beneficial to 
the Vines, particularly where they have been 
hard pressed and perfect finish is doubtful. If 
Madresfield Court Muscats are growing with the 
Hamburgh, see that the roots at the time they 
commence colouring are in a nice growing border, 
neither too wet nor too dry. Mulch well to keep 
iu moisture, as water given after the skin is set 
causes many of the berries to crack ; allow all 
the laterals to grow to their full extent until 
after the fruit is cut. It will then be necessary to 
shorten back, and give more water to plump up 
the buds. Look over late kinds intended for 
autumn and winter use, and if any of the berries 
show signs of remaining small, let them be re¬ 
moved while there is yet time for those properly 
fertilised to fill up the weakest parts of the 
bunches. In the selection of the bunches of 
Gros Colman and othersorts intended for bottling, 
always give preference to medium-sized taper 
buDches of good outline, as they generally' set 
well and keep better than larger clusters through 
which the air cannot pass so freely. Persevere 
with thinning the latest crops as they become 
ready. Mulch and water the inside borders as 
soon as this tedious operation is finished, stop 
gross laterals where they are likely to rob the 
fruit and weaker growths, and then help them 
along to the stoning period with plenty of heat, 
air, and atmospheric moisture.—W. C. 

Vegetables. 

There is no operation in this department so 
useful or eo profitable as mulching. We are now 
busily mulching Peas, which it renders inde- 
lendent of the weather. It keeps the ground 
moist, smothers all weeds, and forms the finest 
path possible to walk on to gather the produce. 
Spring Cauliflowers are also mulched, and so 
v.rong and healthy are our plants, that after the 
heads are cut they send up strong off-shoots, 
which in due time form small heads just the size 
for table. We are now sowiDg a north border 
with Peas, mostly trial varieties, including some 

Digitized by GOOQK 


fine dwarf seedlings from Mr. Laxton. Hoeing 
the land among all growing crops is the very life 
of vegetation. Onions have come well. No more 
early sawings for me. Dnring the last six years 
my Onions have always turned yellow, occa¬ 
sioned by the Rharp cutting east winds. I now 
sow them in the last week in March. It is a great 
mistake to sow small seeds outside early; they 
come up weakly, get stunted, and generally end 
in failure. Young Broccoli and other plants now 
making their appearance will be much benefited 
by- being slightly damped the first thing in the 
morning and dusted over with a little soot and 
dry sand; small plant beetles play sad havoc 
among them, except such attention is paid to 
them. Sowing Lettuces (White Cos) on the 
Celery ridges where they have to stand is a step 
onwards. I never grew such fine examples of 
Lettuces as those sown with the Onions and 
allowed to stand and come to maturity. Of 
Broccoli, we are now cutting very fine specimens 
of Cattell's Eclipse. Proof of the statement that 
late Broccoli is not required when spriDg-sown 
Cauliflowers can be had by the end of April has 
not yet reached me, and until it does I shall 
continue the good old plan of growing late 
Broccoli. R. G. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

If the bedding plants have not been already set 
out, do Dot lose any time in getting them 
planted, the hardier lands first, and when J une 
is well in the more tender bedders. Coleus, Ire- 
sencs, and such small-growing tender subjects 
are scarcely worth troubling with in the town 
garden. These seldom do much good anywhere, 
except in a very favourable season, but in the 
smoky air of a town they stand a very poor 
chance indeed. Attend well to the watering of 
newly planted things, but a shower overhead will 
often be preferable to soaking the roots, and if 
the surface of the beds becomes at all caked it 
must be loosened, when dry, by the use of the 
hoe. The difference in growth between plants 
in a bed where the surface is kept well loosened 
and one where it is caked and hard, is almost 
marvellous. 

It is now very usual to employ plants sold in 
boxes for bedding, the cost of such being con¬ 
siderably less than of plants in small pots; but 
except in the case of Pyrethrums and one or two 
other strong rooting subjects, we strongly recom¬ 
mend the use of potted stuff for bedding. Such 
plants as Lobelias, Fuchsias, Calceolarias, Ac., 
cannot bear to have their root3 much broken, as 
must be the case in taking them from boxes, 
and if a spell of hot, dry weather sets in after 
planting, numbers will probably “go off,” so 
that in the end it will probably be really cheaper 
to employ potted plants. 

Pot plants in greenhouses, window boxes, 
balconies, Ac., are now much better watered in 
the evening, particularly during the prevalence 
of hot weather. The moisture holds much better 
during the cool night hours, and the exhausted 
plants get thoroughly refreshed by morning, 
whereas if watered just when the sun is becoming 
powerful, the moisture is speedily all evaporated, 
and the plants consequently suffer. B. C. R. 


FERN CASES WITHOUT ARTIFICIAL 
HEAT. 

It is my greatest pleasure to say a little on 
Ferns for Fern cases without artificial heat, and 
my remarks may perhaps be of some use to 
amateurs or Fern lovers. We find in this country 
of ours gardens that are crowded with thousands 
of beautiful flowering plants, yet there is not 
one complete that is minus a Fern garden. 
My subject is on the Fern case chiefly, therefore 
I will refer to the rectangular Fern case, as here 
figured, which is the best that can be used, and 
can be made in a short time by a skilful hand, 
and without much expense ; it can be made to 
any size to suit convenience. Supposing we 
commence with one 8 feet long by 18 inches 
wide and 3 feet high. First make the frame, and 
at the very bottom there must be a trough 2 
inches deep, made of zinc, and to be fitted closely, 
so as to catch all the water that drains from the 
Fern garden above, and when it appears to be 
full the water can bo drawn off into a bucket, 
by drawing out the plug or cork at fig. 2, which 
is applicable for the purpose. The next thing is 
to place the bottom or chamber over the trough, 
which should be of 1-inch board, with holes 
bored all over it to ensure drainage, and on 


which should bo fastened the rustic adornment, 
if any is preferred. Tho best material for con¬ 
structing fancy rockwork, arches, Sec., is the 
common virgin cork; it adds little to the weight, 
and it can be made to look like stone by wetting 
it and dusting it over with cement; the sides 
and ends of the case, which are of glass, may bo 
fitted into the framework by means of slide 
grooves, which will prevent difficulty in taking 
them out when you are at work planting your 
pets ; the top pane of glass may be simply let in 
on the top by means of an open groove, and can 
be tilted up to give ventilation. Now the Fern 
case is made, we must find something to put in it 
I will now give a list of Ferns which are suit¬ 
able to be grown in a Fern case without artificial 
heat, and their ordinary heights: Aeplenium 
attenuatum, 4 inches; A. apendiculatum, 12 
inches; A. nitidum, 6 inches; A. dimidiatum, 9 
inches ; Doodia caudata, 6 inches; D. aspera, 
12 inches; D. lunulata, 9 inches ; Adiantum 
cristatum, 9 inches; A. formosum, 18 inches; 
A. cuneatum, 18 inches; Phlebodium aureum, 
36 inches ; l’.sporodocarpum.SO inches; Pleopel- 
tis pustulata, 9 inches ; Platyloma rotundifolia, 
18 inches; Niphobulus lingua, 9 inches; N. per- 
tusus, 6 inches; Lastra?a glabella, 8 inches; 
Polystichum triangularum, 6 inches; Pteris 
erotica albo-lineata, 18 inches; 1’. heterophylla, 6 
inches; I’, serrulata, 18 inches; P. serrulata 





--r —---■ : ■ - ■■ t, — r \ 

I ! 1 

-1 

j 

/ 


i 

j 

\ 



Rectangular Fern case. 


cristata, 12 inches; Scolopendrium vulgare 
ramosum-marginatum, 12 inches; 8.vulgarecris- 
pum, 18 inches. 

The following are filmy Ferns: Hymeno- 
phyllum Tunbridgense, 3 inches ; H. Wilsoni, 2 
inches; Trichomanes radicans, 12 inches; T. 
l’etersi, 1 inch ; T. reniforme, 9 inches; T. veno- 
sum, 2 inches; Todca superba, 12 inches; T. 
plumosa, 12 inches ; T. pellucida, 18 inches. 

Amongst these mentioned we may select a 
splendid group of Ferns; by knowing their 
heights we can plant accordingly. I must Dot 
omit Adiantum reniforme (6 inches), with its 
beautiful heart-shaped leaves, which will make 
a splendid contrast dotted here and there, espe¬ 
cially amongst the filmy Ferns. We will now 
have another interview with the Fern case. Get 
some potsherds about the size of Walnuts, or 
cockle shells will do, and put a covering of about 
2 inches in the bottom of the case over the boles 
aforementioned, then a thin covering of half- 
decayed Sphagnum Moss; after this get some 
good turfy peat, say three parts, silver sand 
one part, and broken charcoal one part; these 
ingredients should be mixed up and broken with 
the hand, and should be in a free, lumpy state. 
Now, put it into the case over the Sphagnum 
Moss, as much as will be required, then get a 
canful of boiling water and water the soil 
thoroughly. The necessity of using the boiling 
water is to kill every insect that may have es¬ 
caped the eye when breaking up the peat; it will 
also kill their eggs. In addition, it will also 
kill the seeds of weeds and the mycelium of 
fungi, all of which are enemies better got rid of 
than be hunted for when their ravages become a 
source of alarm. When the soil is cool and nearly 
dry the Ferns may be planted. Plant the taller 
ones in the centre.and slope them gradually down 
on both sides according to the heightof the Ferns 
until yon get to the sides close to the glass, and, 
to make a good picture, plant a few pieces ef 
Adiantum reniforme next to the glass, leaving a 
space of a few inches between each plant. The 
dwarf filmy Fern Trichomanes Petcrsi, or T. 
venosnm, may be pricked in all over the surface 
amongst the other Ferns, and in course of time 
it will form a complete mass, which will set the 
whole group off with the greatest of splendour. 
Now the planting is completed, sprinkle them 
overhead with water, place the panes of glass in 
their respective places, and repeat the watering 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[June 2, 1883 


lightly in the same manner daily, but do not 
allow them to become saturated, and in a month 
or two they will present themselves in a glorious 
confusion, intermingled as if the Ferns them¬ 
selves had attended to the planting. Now place 
the Fern case in the room close to the window, so 
as to have plenty of light; if the sunbeams find it, 
shadingis essential. Wipe the condensed moisture 
off the glass daily, and give a little air from 10 
a m. till 2 p. m. I would strongly advise everyone 
who loves Ferns to have a Fern garden in the 
house. All the Ferns here mentioned can be 
supplied by several nurserymen who make a 
speciality of Ferns, and who advertise them in 
Gardening at a very low price. 

C. E. Cariss. 

FRUIT. 

WORK IN LARGE FRUIT GARDENS. 
Gooseberries are now one of the principal 
crops requiring attention, not only as regards 
gathering and marketing in a green state, but 
also as respects warding off the attacks of cater, 
pillars, which have for the last few years been 
very destructive. In plantations in which they 
were allowed to strip the foliage off unchecked 
last year, there are very few Gooseberries to 
gather this season. Hand-picking, dusting with 
Hellebore powder, fresh slaked lime, and other 
remedies, such as placing under the bushes sacks 
smeared with tar on which the caterpillars are 
shaken, am being used. A good crop of Goose¬ 
berries, even at a moderate price per sieve, is a 
very remunerative one, as the yield per acre is 
very great where the land has been well treated. 
Small starved berries on bushes that look yellow 
and make hardly any young wood are useless for 
market; large berries grown quickly on bushes 
that look deep green in colour, owing to high 
feeding at the root, are the ones to pay. The 
rich manurial mixture that comes down in trucks 
or barges when applied to Gooseberry bushes in 
winter, soon shows its effect when the active 
growing season comes round, especially on poor 
light land, where roots are plentiful. A 
neighbouring fruit grower, having such a plot, 
gave a portion of it all the night soil and sewage 
he could collect for miles round in the winter, 
applying it liberally all round the bushes, and 
one can see at a glance where it was applied. 
Where, however, good rotten farmyard manure 
c hi be obtained, there is probably nothing to 
surpass it as a winter dressing forked in lightly 
about the roots. It is a common practice to grow 
bush fruits under standard Apples, Pears, Plums, 
See., and thus situated they do very well for a few 
years, but if really first-class bushes are wanted 
to yield annually heavy crops, there is nothing 
like letting them have the land to themselves. 
On good land, planting them 9 feet apart each 
way is not too much space. 

Red and White Currants should now have 
the tips of the growing shoots pinched off, an 
operation which greatly helps the swelling of 
tne crop, and assists the buds on the spurs to 
swell up and ripen well for next year. There is 
at present a great quantity of caterpillar, fly, 
and other pests on fruit trees and bushes. Wash¬ 
ing with soft soap dissolved in water so as to 
make a mixture like strong soap-suds, and 
applied with force from a powerful engine, such 
as is employed for washing Hop bine, is the 
usual remedy in this part; even if the foliage 
gets partially destroyed by vermin the chance of 
next year’s crop is gone, as well as the present 
one, that invariably drops prematurely if the 
foliage is injured to any extent. 

Hoeing by manual labour, or scarifying with 
a horse or a pony, is now being actively carried 
on, for, in addition to the need for destroying 
weeds, the production of a mellow, friable sur¬ 
face soil is of great benefit to the growth of 
both trees and bushes. Large, heavy horses are 
not required for this operation ; a pony, or even 
a donkey, will draw a light set of hoes set in a 
frame, and, with a careful driver to avoid injury 
to the trees, a large amount of surface soil may 
be stirred in a day, and as the trees or boshes 
are planted in straight lines each way, there is 
very little ground left unstirred, except close to 
the stems, where a man followihg with a draw 
hoe completes the work. 

Grafted trees require frequent attention, 
for where growing strongly tho trees will need 
loosening before they out the berk. Aa soon as 
the shoots get Iscg enough to sway shout with 


ret long enough tq swa> 

Go gle 


the wind they must be staked on both sides and 
loosely tied with stiff bast; this will keep them 
from snapping of. Trees grafted last year will 
now need divesting of all shoots produced by 
the stock, so as to concentrate the energies of 
the tree in the grafts ; take them off close to the 
stem with a sharp knife. Espaliers and wall 
trees, whether on farm buildings or other wails, 
should have all surplus shoots pinched back to 
three or four leaves while they are yet soft, 
removing all curled or blighted foliage, and 
washing the remainder with soft soap or Gis- 
hurst compound, consisting of about 1 ounces to 
the gallon. G. Jl. 

Fruits for walls. —How many cottages 
and villas have boundary walls from 4 feet to 6 
feet high that, not being considered high enough 
for choice or tender fruits, are left bare or only 
planted with some non-productive creeper, while 
the owners hardly get a dish of fruit at any time 
of home growth. In such cases would it not be 
better to have the wall covered with tome kind 
of fruit that with very ordinary care and attention 
would bearcrops, instead of wasting one's efforts 
on tender subjects that seldom produce any¬ 
thing 1 After trying all sorts of fruits for such 
positions, I find, taking the average run of sea¬ 
sons into account, it is best to plant walls of 
this kind with good dessert Gooseberries and 
Red and White Currants; such fruits never fail 
to produce a crop, bear well on the spur system 
of pruning, and are very easily managed. The 
foreriglit shoots should be pinched at three or 
four joints from the base, for when the leaves 
on the points get curled up, they make a secure 
refuge for fly, grub, &c. If caterpillars appear, 
hand-picking is the safest remedy ; but the trees 
should also be washed with soap-suds. As soon 
as the fruit colours, put a net over it, and if on 
a north wall it may be preserved until very late, 
and will be found to be iuvaluable for dessert 
after other crops are over.—G. 

Viscomtesse Herlcart da Thury 
Strawberry. —This is in my opinion one of the 
very best of Strawberries to grow, in either large 
or small gardens. It is of good quality, a fine 
bright colour, and, above all, a most abundant 
cropper; indeed, it is of such a continuous fruit¬ 
ful nature that it is seldom without ft-uit or 
blossom in some stage of development. This is the 
sortthatgardeners mostly rely on forautumn crops 
of Strawberries, as plants that have been forced 
early in pots, will, when planted out, start into 
fresh growth and yield really good crops late in 
the season ; and doubtless many who have turned 
the plants out of doors have noticed that this 
sort always shews a disposition to continuous 
bearing, especially if the plants are kept well 
supplied with water. It is a fallacy to suppose 
that the flavour of the fruit is improved by dry¬ 
ing at the root, iD fact it is only when the plants 
get plenty of moisture that they can develop 
their true flavour, and if the foliage is kept 
healthy and free from red spider and other in¬ 
sect pests, this sort will continue to bear a suc¬ 
cession of fruit for a length of time. I have at 
present some plants of the above kind that have 
been bearing for a long time in a cool house, 
where they were brought on very gradually, and 
when turned out of doors, for want of space, 
they all had blossoms or fruit in various stages 
of development, and planted out at once they 
will,doubtless,yield a fair crop of fruitin August 
and September. This is the sort I would recom¬ 
mend any amateur to grow, for it is one that will 
succeed in almost any soil or situation, and give 
the longest supply of fruit of any variety I have 
yet tried.— James Groom, Gosport. 

9778.— Strawberries for foroing.— Pro¬ 
bably far more largely than any other kinds are 
grownfor early forcing Keen’s Seedling, Viscom- 
tesse Hericart de Thury, and President, all 
first-rate sorts for the purpose, and pushed on 
generally in the order named. It is an important 
thing in regard to plants for early work that 
they should be layered early, and therefore it is 
wise to set apart a score or two of plants out¬ 
doors to produce early runners only, and not 
permit them to produce bloom. There is no 
better rule than that of layering the runners 
into 3‘inch pots, in which, in good soil, they get 
established in about three weeks, and in a month 
or so the young plants tr.ay be shifted into 
6-lnch pots, and be stood out on a solid ash or 
gravel bottom, and bo kept well watered. Pot 
StrawberrlM must he po'.wd hard In good lean? 


and short horse manure. Crashed bones rath 
good drainage, and a pinch of bone or host- 
scraping in the soil proves to be a valuable heir 
indeed, it is not so widely known as it deserru 
to be, that one of the best helps to strong-giors- 
ing pot plants is found in the parings of horse, 
hoofs from a farrier's shop.—D. 

-The following kind* of Strawberries I fei 

force very well: —President, British Queen, StrC. Napier, 
Garibaldi.—A. H. Davies, Car/halton. 

0767.— Pear trees not bearing.-I should tbisi 
that the roots of the trees named must hare gone dorr 
too deep. They should not be more than 2 feet usteits 
surface. They must be thoroughly pruned at the rxfe 
isud well mulched with manure.—A H. Davies, Cardsl- 
ton. 

ART IN THE FLOWER GARDEN'. 
“An Artist” (page 119) has not quitecaigh 
my meaning in using the word “ wilderness' it 
reference to a more picturesque style of game: 
than that commonly used. “ A Practical Mas 
said in effect that if we grew our Roses on rher 
own roots, and allowed them to become a sba.' 
of suckers, our gardens would soon look like s 
wilderness. I know exactly the kind of nBtiais-i 
mind and taste which is offended by anything!: 
the shape of free or natural growth in plana 
and which is delighted by straight wait 
trimmed shrubs, closely shaven turf, geometer 
beds, flowers and plants in patterns, pinch- 
plants, and Standard Roses. It was in opposite 
to that style of garden that I adopted the roi 
wilderness, as to people who like that styleu 
garden, anything pictnresque appears rag? 
and everything not formal or unnatural lc«b 
like a wilderness, the fault being in their or. 
blindness to the beauty of natural fora I 
garden is truly a work of art—there could n« h 
a better simile, for in a perfectly arrangedgaite 
every plant should have its place and use, as 1 
contribute to the general effect; and exact?;* 
the figures in a picture should look—as if tbr 
had naturally and unconsciously come inlets t 
places and attitudes the artist has placed tic 
in—so the plants in a garden, while used «il j 
consummate art and knowledge, should loots 
if they were chance seedlings. Any kind: 
garden in which plants are used as subordics- 
to architecture, fountains, statuary, or geotoetr 
arrangements of walks and beds, can scaic*); ' 
called a garden at all. An artist would ara 
paint a group of china and earthenware p® 
with a background of beautiful hnmat fee 
and it is equally absurd to place our 
beautiful works as an accessory to our mittuht 
inventions. 

A garden should be a home for beautiful ow 
shrubs, and plants, and to the placing of h** 
so that they will grow in a healthy manner sic 
Bhow their characteristic beauties to the best «• 
vantage all arrangements should be suboidhA-- 
There should be art everywhere, but s «*• 
ahsenceof artificiality. The two things are tolMf 
distinct. Art follows nature so closely as to I* 
mistaken for it, artificiality glories in getting ^ 
far from nature as possible. Because formal * 
architectural arrangements look well as bar 1 
grounds to figures in a picture, it does non'?*’ 
sarily follow that such gardens would tot 
without the figures, which are the principal pa 1 -- 
the composition. Our gardens have to tot 5 
by themselves, for, as far as the sterner ses 
concerned, onr figures in ourpresenthideouscs- 
tnmes are more of a disfigurement to my g 31 "® 
landscape than an ornament to it. I am bchJ *> 
havetoinform “An Artist ” that my gardeni.- 1 ; 
far from being a beautiful one; on taking ft®*' 
Sion of it, I found it contained such an e®' 
ordinary variety of soils, both natural and**’ 
cial, that no uniform or congruous effect em 
be carried out without very great expense. iiQ 
occupancy is only temporary, I took the oppm 1 ' 
nity of making an experimental garden of it. ( 
that my plants are placed and grouped. 
where they will look best, but in the soil • r - 
suits them Any decorative groupings I 
carried out are in little bits and patches. In 13 ' 
my garden is a lot of sketches and studi®'' 
not a picture. In September I hope to be aW ' 
move to a garden with more scope for decorate 
arrangements, so that next season I may be M 
to show “ An Artist" what I mean by a wil«' 
neso gatden, J- 


being Mien on spanning strive,t 
Sf thff hr.*e not, lit them tri if, 


above the pound hr <W 




Junk 2, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


153 



OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


8CB-TR0PICAL GARDENING. 

As this is the time when sub-tropical plants are 
being put out for the summer, we give the 
accompanying sketch of a bed in Hyde Park last 
jammer, which seemed in itself to illustrate 
some of the best features of the fine-leaved 
gardening, so to say, of recent years. It was a 
very large circle, with a bold plant of the 
Abyssinian Plantain in the middle, fringed by a 
few of the bolder so-called sub-tropical plants, 
and edged by an extraordinary bold fringe of 
the fine hardy, and in beauty long-enduring, 
Siebold's Plantain Lily (Funkia Sieboldi). The 
reason of the success of this bed is clear enough, 
and it is always worth ascertaining the reason 
of any good effect in gardens, because it may 
guide us in other respects. The “it-is-all-a-mat- 
ter-of-taste ” men are of no use at all under the 
New Gardening. The bed was right; first, by 
its form, not a finniking angle or a wormy scrawl, 
but a bold circle, presenting no confusion to the 
observer, who simply saw the plants rising in a 
bold, well-defined group from the roomy turf. 
The bed was by itself—a circumstance which en¬ 
abled it to be seen unopposed—not muddled up 
with a lot of other beds near and around it, as is 
usual, so that the eye cannot rest anywhere or 
enjoy any one thing at a time. In passing it 
may not be amiss to note that the eye does not 
as a rule care for more 


flower beds with plants of a more transitory 
character where they are obliged to be cleared, 
and give the Primrose, Polyanthus, and similar 
plants a position where they can remain undis¬ 
turbed, planting or sowing some kind of annual 
that will grow up and shelter and shade the 
crownsof the Primroses. These beautiful Sowers 
like a firm soil, and do best when not too fre¬ 
quently disturbed at the root.— James Groom, 
Gosport. [The truss of bloom sent had a flat 
stem quite an inch in width, and bore upwards 
of sixty flowers. We do not think, however, it 
would be possible to perpetuate such monstrosi¬ 
ties, even if it were desirable to do so. —Ed.] 

Seedling Pansies. —There are few plants 
that repay the small amount of attention they 
require better than Pansies, and the best plan 
for amateurs to get up a good stock is to raise 
them from seed, as seedlings are far less trouble 
than cuttings, and they grow more vigorously. 
Of conrse, when distinct self coi ours are required, 
the only recourse is to propagate by cuttings, 
but for ordinary decorative purposes, seedlings 
are the best. If sown in spring under glass, and 
planted out as soon as large enough, a capital 
late bloom may be relied on ; but I find the best 
time to sow is in August in the open ground, 
choosing a shaded position, and if the weather 
is dry, keep the seed-bed moist by watering it. 
The seedlings will get nice, sturdy little plants 


The most suitables positions in which to plant it 
are those in front of large evergreens. The 
plumes of Sower are thus shown off to the best 
advantage. Another equally good position is on 
the banks of a lake and in large clumps in woods, 
especially in such spots as can be seen from tbe 
windows of the house or the walks of the 
pleasure grounds. It is easily raised from seeds 
sown in heat in spring, and by division of the 
roots at the same season. 

j Day Lilies.—Among hardy border plants, 

| the Day Lilies (Hemerocallis) make a fine show, 

! especially H. lutea, which is, perhaps, the 
| richest and most beautiful amongst them, 
I sending up, as it does, a profusion of very 
I bright yellow flowers. In addition to being 
| one of the best for borders, this kind is also 
of great value for pots for forcing, as, being 
naturally early, it may, with very little forcing, 
be had in bloom by March, when it makes a fine 
show in a greenhouse. If wanted for this kind of 
work, the best way iB to grow tbe plants in good 
soil in an open, sunny spot, and take them up in 
the autumn, when they should be potted and 
placed in cold frames, or plunged out in some 
sheltered spot, to be drawn from when wanted. 
Another kind that is quite worthy of pot culture 
is H. Kwanso variegata, which in appearance is 
almost equal to Pandanus Veitchi, so rich is it in 
its markings. This, too, always grows strongest 


before the winter sets in, the only attention they 1 and best planted out and taken up, and, if 

forced, the colouring of 


Bed of sub-tropical plants. Sketched in Hyde Park In summer. 


than one thing at a time, 
and if invited to look at 
a picture made up of 
many things, it rests 
with pleasure in some 
one spot. Lastly, the 
plant forms were bold 
and well selected, and 
contrasted well with the 
ordinary tree vegetation 
near, there being plenty 
of grass about the bed 
toallowof contrast with¬ 
out confusion from rival 
subjects. The way in 
which the Plantain Li¬ 
lies began early in the 
year to adorn the spot 
and continued through¬ 
out the whole summer 
and antumn was quite a 
pleasure to see. Our 
drawing was made about 
tbe end of September, 
shortly after some heavy 
slonns had taken place, 
which tore the Musa a 
little, but the bed re¬ 
mained excellent in ef¬ 
fect till October. Some of 
the Plantain Lily leaves 
began to fade at that 
time,but still produced a 

very fine effect. Thinking it the happiest bed i require being to keep free from weeds until the 
in the parks during the season, we engraved a days begin to lengthen in February, when they 

may be planted out on a good rich piece of 
ground about 6 inches apart. They will speedily 
develop into fine plants, and in April (will be 
comiDg into flower, and if transferred to well- 
prepared beds, will flower continuously all the 
season if kept moist at the root. Pansies are 
especially suited for shaded gardens where the 
ordinary bedding plants run sdl to leaf. The 
large-flowered show Pansy, or the French or 
Belgian spotted varieties, are the best for making 
a fine display in beds, as the great variety in 
their markings make them very interesting. 
With a good supply of Pansies and Violas, there 
will be little difficulty in keeping the garden gay 
from early spring until winter again comes 
round, as they are seldom entirely flowerless.— 
J. Groom, Gosport. 

Pampas Grass (Gynerium argenteum).— 
This is one of the noblest and most graceful of 
all the large ornamental Grasses, but, unfor¬ 
tunately, it is not perfectly hardy, scores of plants 
having died from the effects of the severe winters 
of 1880 and 1881; therefore, in suoh exception¬ 
ally sharp frost a little protection is necessary, 
and there is nothing better for this purpose than 
Braoken, worked round aboutthe base and crowns 
of tbe plants. In deep, loamy soil this Grass at- 
I tains a height of from 10 feat to IS feat, the 
I plumes of flower growing eren taller than that, 


drawing of it, made from what seemed to us the 
most effective point of view. 

Polyanthuses.—I enclose a head of bloom 
from a Polyanthus plant that has produced a 
number of similar ones this season, and during 
the rough gales of wind which we experienced in 
April, these fBsciated stems stood up bravely, 
defying the force of the wind, while the flowers 
with flexible stems were battered down on the 
soil. You will note that a single head of this kind 
forms quite a nosegay, and a medium-sized 
dump with half a dozen similar ones makes an 
effective object in the herbaceous border. I may 
add, that in this locality, where the soil is light, 
a little shade is of the utmost importance to the 
-accessful culture of these flowers, and anyone 
transplanting or dividing them now should put 
t ranches of trees over them, or shake a little 
litter over the crowns, so as to break the direct 
rays of the sun until they are well established, 
as they are impatient of heat and drought, and 
naturally select a cool, shaded position; but 
where used in connection with ordinary spring 
Sower gaidening, there is no help for it but to 
temove them at a season when they are in full 
letf-gmwth, or directly the flowers are fadod,and 
It tbe young, succulent leaves get Injured, the 
plant must tuffer. It le far better to fill the 


Digitized 


Google 


the leaves is exceedingly 
delicate, and the whole 
contour of the plant 
particularly striking. 
The green form of this 
Hemerocallis attains a 
great size and makes a 
noble looking object in 
the foreground of shrub¬ 
bery borders, and is well 
adapted for planting in 
semi-wild places, where, 
from its bold, strong 
habit, it is quite able to 
thrive well and bold its 
own without having any 
care and attention be¬ 
stowed on it. H. fulva is 
also a very robust kind, 
and succeeds equally 
well with the last named 
if planted in similar po¬ 
sitions, but the best for 
beds or flower borders are 
H. Sieboldiana, H. lutea, 

H. Hava, and H. Thun- 
bergi. These are all of mo¬ 
derate size, ranging from 
1 foot to 2 feet high, and 
are compact and close in 
their manner of growth. 
The Hemerocallis admits 
of ready increase by 
division, which may be effected at any time 
during the winter or Bpring by means of a sharp 
spade, as the crowns may be cut clean through 
without any risk. Day Lilies, one and all, like 
good, loose, open soil in which they can send 
their roots well down and find plenty of moisture. 

A good situation for planting the strong growers 
is near the margins of ponds, where tbe plants, 
from having long, Flag-like leaves, look quite in 
character.—S. D. 

Old-fashioned Auriculas —I have read 
with much interest the article entitled “Old- 
fashioned Auriculas ” by " A Reader of 
Gardening " in your issue of May 12. Four 
years ago I brought from the Swiss mountains 
two or tliree plants of the species of Primula 
described by the writer. I have been successful 
in increasing them by division. They have stood 
the severe winters of 1880 and 1881, as well as 
the dense fogs of the last two winters, and have 
thriven wonderfully well and bloomed freely. 
They are self-coloured. I Bhould be glad to 
exchange a plant with “ A Reader of Garden¬ 
ing " for a specimen of the white bloom Auricula 
of which he speaks.— ELIZABETH FowleR, 
Thomnrood Lodge, Kensington, W. 

0784.— Flowers for market.— Deep red 
Wallflowers rank amoDgst the most popular and 
profitable of market bunoh-flowera If grown in 
bulk. Then oome single Cssr and Russian 
Violets, Narcissi, Lily of th« Villey, Folyatv 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



















154 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[June 2, 1883. 


thuses, and double and single Primroses, if 
grown in colours, and the former are free 
bloomers and of bright lines. Both the dissiti- 
liora and sylvatica Forget-me-nots are good, so 
also are Anemones, especially the scarlet- 
flowered kinds. The branching Queen Stocks— 
white, scarlet, and purple—are all profitable 
where they stand the winter. Pinks in various 
colours bunch well, and bloom most freely; and 
specially good are the blue and yellow Corn¬ 
cockles, easily raised in quantity from seed sown 
in the autumn; good, showy, long-stemmed 
Pansies also sell well. The double white tuber¬ 
ous-rooted Saxifrage furnishes big bunches of 
white flowers, and Cheirantlius Marshalli of 
yellow flowers. Clove and flaked Carnations in 
variety give an abundance of bloom, in fact few 
flowers produce more than do a batch of the 
French Carnations if seed be sown in May and 
the plants dibbled out in the summer to 
12 inches apart. An endless variety of hardy 
plants might be mentioned, but the list given 
certainly includes many that are widely grown. 
— D. 

9757.— Thinning annuals— In doing this 
some knowledge should be had of the varying 
heights and habits of the respective kinds. As, 
for instance, Virginian Stocks may be sown 
thinly and loft to bloom; whilst tall things, such 
as the Poppies named, should stand singly, fully 
12 inches from each other. Thinned plants 
always give better results than do unthinned 
ones. In the latter case, owing to lack of room 
for development, the plants are starved and soon 
give out, but each plant having ample root room, 
the bloom is finer and far more enduring. The 
finest Mignonette is always got from plants 
thinned or dibbled out to 12 inches apart; bushy 
plantslike dwarf Nasturtiumswant! 2inches, and 
equally so do Asters and Stocks; whilst Marigolds 
want 18 inches of space. It is not possible to lay 
down any rule, but the best plan is always to 
thin out liberally.—D. 

9769.— Manure for Lilies— Better than 
liquid manure for Lilies is putting round each 
one a small shovelful of short or rotted manure 
if growing out in the open ground, and if in 
pots it is well to run a zinc strip about an inch 
in depth just inside the rim of the pot, and 
nearly fill this up with thoroughly decayed 
manure. All Lilies throw from the base of the 
flower stems numerous strong roots, and these 
need feeding; but, as a rule, they come on the 
surface of the soil, and if some dressing such as 
advised is not added, they get little food. In 
the after waterings the nutriment of this manure 
is washed into the soil in the pots ; the mulch¬ 
ing may be changed or added to from time to 
time.—A. D. 

VEGETABLES; 

EARLY VEGETABLES. 

Cauliflowebs.— One of the best of early 
Cauliflowers to come in after the Broccoli crop 
is over is Early London, one of the hardiest 
and also one of the earliest. On this I always 
depend for my first crop. The produce of seed 
sown the first week in September and wintered in 
a cold frame was planted under ordinary hand- 
lights, four plants in each, the first week in Feb¬ 
ruary. From these we commenced cutting fine 
large heads on May 15, while some of the newer 
varieties did not commence to form heads until 
the end of the month, all being under the same 
treatment. Walcheren succeeds the early sorts 
when sown in September, and if sowings be 
made in succession during the spring months, 
this sort may be had good all the summer until 
Veitch’s Autumn Giant comes into use. The 
latter keeps up a supply until early Broccoli is 
fit for use. 

Potatoes.— For early crops out-of-doors, I 
find nothing to equal Myatt’s Ashleaf and Por¬ 
ter's Excelsior. Both were planted on the same 
day, and received exactly the same treatment. 
Porter’s Excelsior was dug the sameday as Myat t’s, 
the tubers were of medium si ze, free from disease, 
and first-rate quality, and I find that they keep 
well during winter. Rivers’s Royal Ashleaf is a 
good sort to succeed the two varieties just men¬ 
tioned. It is a heavy cropper, and produces large 
clean tubers of good quality, rendering it fit 
either for field or garden culture. Early Bose 
comes in well after Rivers’s Ashleaf is finished 
and before the later sorts are fit to dig. 

Digitized by GOOglC 


Carrots. — Carrots are always in demand trowel, so as to make good holes to admit of tii 
daring the spring months ; old ones have to give plants being planted without cramping th 
place to new ones as soon as the latter can be roots, and the next thing is to give a heavy 
had, either forced or from the open garden. I soaking of water to settle the soil about thee, 
make a small sowing of the early French forcing when they will soon start off to grow. To keep 
Carrot as early in the new year as I can, and this them well at work, it will be necessary 
comes into use a few days earlier than the Im- continue the watering at least once a wed 
proved Early Horn, sown at the same time, during dry weather, and when the plants get 
The Early Scarlet Horn is one of the best to sow hold, weak liquid manure should be given instead 
to succeed the very early sorts, which are not pro- of the water. A6 the administering of the om 
fitable to grow in quantities, owing to their or the other causes much washing of the soil, it 
not growing so large as some of the later is a good plan to mulch along each side of the 
sorts. rows of Celery by scattering leaf-mcrald along, 

Cabbages.— I find nothing to equal East or . better still, by the use of eea-weed if it cm 
Ham as a good earlj r sort. It is hardier than b® had, as sea-weed lies close and stops evapira- 
most varieties. Indeed, I seldom lose a plant tion» thus keeping the roots of the Celery in i 
of it during the winter, while other sorts constantly moist, uniform state. Earthing np 
have been destroyed by frost and snow. After should not take place till the plants are fully 
growing it for several seasons, I find nothing so grown, but to prevent them spreading too hi 
profitable during the early spriDg months ; it is an ^ to keep the leaves compact, it is necessan 
seldom any of the plants run to seed in the run a piece of matting loosely as a tie ioiec 
early spring, while often other sorts growing eac h plant, which not only answers the parpen 
upon the same ground nearly all run to seed, stated, but greatly facilitates the earthing wbec 
This spring I cut hearted Cabbages of this sort that operation takes place, as the leaves being 
three weeks earlier than I did of other sorts close, there is no fear of the soil getting betweet 


planted at the same time. This variety is grown 
extensively in Essex by some of the market 
gardeners. Early Heartwell is a good sort for 
spring planting, producing, as it does, fine, close, 


and working its way into the hearts of tbe 
plants. S. 

ANSWERS TO QUERIE8. 


compact heads of a first-rate quality. 

Turnips.—O f the many varieties of early 
Turnips in cultivation none surpasses the red- 
topped Munich for earliness. It comes into use 
three weeks and sometimes a month before any 
of the earliest sorts we have in cultivation. I 
find this variety to be of first-rate quality early 
in the spring and summer until we get hot, dry 
weather, when it gets stringy and hard, often 
having a bitter taste when cooked. This is not, 
however, I believe, the case in all situations and 
soils. A good second early cropper will be 
found to be the early French Turnip, a fine 
melting sort, to be succeeded by the early white 
Dutch, one of the best Turnips in cultivation, 
always boiling tender. W. C. 

CELERY CULTURE. 

Tiie season has now arrived for getting Celery 
out in trenches, and in order to have it fine and 
large the plants require a long season’s growth 
before winter sets in. To have them in the best 
condition for planting they should have been 
pricked out on a bed of very rich, light soil some 
time back, from which, if well watered before 
being lifted, they may now be moved with good 
balls, and getting them up in that way is an im¬ 
portant matter, as success depends on their 
having no check, for if they do they are almost 
sure to start off to seed. Some growers of Celery 
plant three or more rows in a trench, which may 
answer very well if the heads are to be used early, 
but not so for standing the winter, as the wet 
gets into the hearts and causes them to rot, and 
another objection against the practice is that the 
plants cannot be earthed up so well and easily as 
they can when cultivated on the single row 
system, which is the best and most satisfactory in 
the end. If the dwarf kinds of Celery are grown, 
the trenches need not be more than 3 feet apart, 
which is quite far enough to admit of obtaining 
sufficient soil for the earthing up; but if the tall 
sorts are preferred, it will be necessary to 
allow 4 feet between. The best way, however, 
of growing Celery, and the most economical, 
as regards ground, is to have the trenches much 
wider apart and to sow Peas or Runner Beans 
between; by doing this the Celery gets just the 
slight shade it likes, and at least double the 
crop of Peas or Beans is obtained, as by having 
so much more light and air they bear with far 
greater freedom. If Peas or Scarlet Runners be 
not sown, autumn Cauliflowers maybe planted, as 
they will be off in time for the earthing up of the 
Celery; if Cauliflowers are grown, 5 feet apart 
will be about right for the trenches. These 
should not be dug deep and ditch-like, as one 
often sees them, as they are bad for the Celery, 
which has then only the bad sub-soil to root in, 
and consequently it can never be grown so good 
as it may when planted at a higher level. If 
the earth is taken out 6 inches in depth and 
10 inches in width, that will be ample, and after 
having dote so, a heavy dressing of mild, 
thoroughly decomposed manure should bespread 
evenly along the bottom of the trench and dug 
in, when all will be ready for putting out the 
plants. This should be done by tbe aid of a 

UNI 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

9738— Birds and oats.— Cat oat from 
piece of stoat mill-board, or preferably tic a 
zinc, the best shape yon can of a cat with til 
outstretched, fore and hind legs the sane, as 3 
in the act of flying after something. Fix a std 
in the ground over your seed-beds and slight) 
on the slant, now suspend the tin cat by a strut 
or fine wire from the top, allowing it to datrit 
some 2 inches or 3 inches above the grate 
suspend it by the centre as nearaspossibleatdlir 
wind will do the rest by agitating it sofSciocf; 
to prove very' realistic to the sparrows. Yon ra; 
fix as many as you like, and the more like th 
original yon make your tabby by jodicis 
touching up, the better the effect and result «£ 
be. Cats by night and early morning are indeei 
a most vexatious annoyance, and little beytx 
personal watching appears to beep then i 
However, I offer the following suggestions Ik 
common galvanized netting, 2-inch mesh,sinp; 
rucked up a little and laid on the ground, pew 
of board, any shape or size, studded an indnfat 
with needles and pins, and the boards sud a 
the ground here and there with the poinsjas 
peeping out of the soil, will prove any this b8 
pleasant to their tender soles when sciatdm; 
holes, or the owner either—so msrk the spots by 
a stick. Fine copper wire strained on sral 
posts 1 inch square, a foot high, the wire 2inch* 
or 3 inches apart like miniature hurdles, bus bet 
tried with success. The same arrangement« 
be fixed upon existing walls and fences. Tts 
idea is that cats, like elephants, are very sensitive 
where they tread, and refuse to put tbe 
upon a yielding surface. Cats will climb 
walls, fences, or palings, if the least foot-bt’ 
can be obtained, and even trelliswork.butlbn 
never yet seen them tackle a wirework arrants- 
ment of any kind. I effectually kept them os 
of one garden, on noting the particular part « 
wall or fence they came over, by fixing pins am 
needles with a little tar spread about. I. 
galvanized netting be fixed a foot high aa 
leaning outward on top of wall or fence,*; 
cannot come over that side_J. T. F. 

9766.— Grass dying.— There are only t» 
causes which can account for the constant djK 
of grass on a raised or sloping bank inaganto 
The first is that, owing to the formation of w 
bank, no moisture penetrates in thesummer.tr- 
turf when dry becoming hard and tough, so t»- 
all ordinary rains are thrown off, and hence u‘ 
roots, having neither moisture nor nutr- 
ment, soon die. This cause seems specially tow 
the operating one, because being newly turfw 
every year, the roots cannot get hold of tbe raj 
ere the drought again kills them. If dro»f- ; 
be not the cause of the dying, then there remmt^ 
but the soil, which must contain some ingteita 
destructive to the turf, and to which the iu® 
will not become attached. It would be*d 
before returfing to remove a large portion of tK 
. soil, and replace with fresh good soil from 1 
1 kitchen garden. Failing grass being induced 1 '. 
\ grow under any circumstances, it would be *el 
5 ] to see how far the bank could be covered w> 1 
i so;ne permanent carpet plant, such as the hi'' 

JIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Juke 2, 1883 ] 


GABDEJYIJYG ILLUSTRATED j 


155 


eronica rcpens or Herniara glabra, both deep 
reeii.—A. D. 

3777.— Box edgings. —Box may be planted 
ith safety almost at any time in the autumn 
qJ winter in dry open weather, but the month 
f October is perhaps the best time for so doing ; 
ill, very much is put in so late as March and 
pril, for Box is a very hardy little shrub, and 
. ith common care exercised in planting will do 
ery well planted at almost any time except 
uring the hot months. In planting it is well 
oth to trim back the tops and the roots, as the 
nailer species planted, if well rooted, the more 
kely are they to take well. Pruning should be 
one about June, after the summer growth has 
een made; then, if trimmed fairly close, a 
,'cond growth will follow, and thus make a neat 
reen lively-looking edging. Box, however, has 
ot a few drawbacks. It needs constant atten- 
on in trimming and repairing; it offers a 
ivoured harbour for slugs and snails, and, to 
ave it in good condition, needs to be lifted, 
died to pieces, and replanted every half dozen 
3ars.—D. 

3761 —Cocoa fibre for Pansies.— It is 

i excellent plan to top dress Pansies, as indeed 
-any other plants also, with Cocoa fibre refuse, 
nt the more it contains refuse the better, as 
lat the more nearly approaches the condition of 
il. It would, however, be well before the 
>coa fibre is laid on to surface the soil close 
and the plants first with some old pot soil, 
fted, or some leaf soil, or better still some 
anure from an old hotbed that has been decom- 
>sed to the consistency almost of soil, and will 
eak up to be very fine and pulverised. Over 
.is a dressing of the refuse placed will give a 
iafc appearance, and by keeping the manure or 
il moist will promote side rooting. One mulch- 
g may be dug into the soil later on.—A. D. 

— Cocoanut-flbre answers very well to place round 
insie8. I have used it with much success. It would 
-t be advisable to incorporate too much of the refuse 
th the soil when dressing the beds.—A. H. Davis. 


is well advanced early in spring, a double fish 
net over tender wall trees or any tender crops is 
a great advantage. Its effect is like that of a 
hedge in breaking wind currents, which are often 
so harmful to vegetation. Early crops of 
Potatoes, with a net over them and a few long 
evergreen branches laid on at night and removed 
in the morning, are quite safe, and many other 
crops arc equally benefited by this slight 
protection.—L. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents.—Aft communica¬ 
tions/or insertion should be clearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the Publisher. The name 
and address ot the sender is required, in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the. query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece of paper. Ourinq to the neeessity of 
GARDENING going to press a consideraole time before the 
day of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

9816. — Birds in gardens. —Would anyone kindly 
give me a recipe for getting quit of sparrows? We can 
grow nothing for them ; they eat the peas whenever they 
appear above ground, and also all kinds of seeds. 1 
sowed a new drying green in spring, and all the grass 
seed was picked up by them. They eome in flocks, con¬ 
sequently I have no grass. Indeed, I am troubled w ith 
every kind of bird. There is a wood across the road from 
my house, where they swarm. I have seen two nests on one 
branch, and three in the same bush. I have tried shooting 
them, but they no sooner fly away than they are back 
again in flocks. I have chickens in a corner of the garden 
railed off, so it would require to be something that would 
not injure them.—J. L. 

9817. —Potting Pelargoniums.—I have a very fine 
Pelargonium in a 6-inch pot, the main stem being nearly 
one inch in diameter ; three branches are perfectly loaded 
with bloom and buds to open. I got it from a nursery. 
Does it need a larger pot, and would it be Bate to shift 
it. I should like to keep so flno a specimen for another 
year. I have heard of Pelargoniums and Geraniums 
being grown as trees to cover the back wall of a green¬ 
house and blooming on year after year. How is it done ? 
Finally, what is the definition of Pelargonium and Gera¬ 
nium—are they one and the same family, and require the 
same treatment ?—J. T. F. 


Vine leaf.—(IF. J. G .)—The leaf sent looks as if it had 
on attacked by red spider, blit we could find none on 
It evidently belongs to a Vine that wants better 
filing than it lias hitherto had. 

Calceolariaa—I have a few Calceolarias in a pot, 
icn should they bo planted out ?—[Now;.] 
llumbug.—Jt is unfair to bring a charge against an 
vertiser without giving him an opportunity of defending 
and this you do by vrithholding your own name and 
dross.— -Senex. —“Florists’ Mowers,” by J. Dougins, 
eat Gearies, Ilford. We do not know of a good book on 

J other subject named. - Mary Brown. — The male 

»soms of the Melon are those without any bulb at 
cir ba»e. Those blossoms which are borne on the end 

a bulb or embryo fruit are the female flowers.- 

A. J.— The index of vol. 4 can be had at all news- 
tnts, price Id., or post free from the office ljd. 

F.lisa.— Kindly send ns a piece of the plant, at the same 

ne repeating your question.- S. G. B .—The Auricula 

very beautiful. It is no doubt a kind that would suc- 

ed well out-of-doors.- A. B. —A kind of fungus easily 

moved with a sponge and warm soapy water. Keep 

j 11 syringed, and give plenty of ventilation.- J. H. S. 

'Ve know of no good book on the subject.- S. M. M. 

It is notafcall uncommon.- W. Headdy .—Very pretty 

-Jg growing, but they are no improvement on 

Ftmj —Imperfect ventilation is no doubt the cause. 

be leave* and berries have been scalded.- IF. E. A. — 

one ot the Pansies Mere of any merit. You can get 

tuofc better from a good strain of seed.- D. J. E — 

1 080 Ret auy quantity ot the green-leaved Moneywort 
1 the market, or even from the hucksters' barrows, and 
golden-leaved one can be got at most nurseries. Mr. 
‘are, Hale Farm, Tottenham, we know has it. 

Names of plants—./. H. A. — 1 , Scilla nutans alba ; 

, ». campanulata; 3, S. nutans rosea.- X. X.—1, 

nils nutans alba and campanulata (blue); 2, Trollius 

apelmolias; 3, Ranunculus aconitifolius fl.-pl.- Fern- 

^ ene (species) ; 2, Achillea millefolium; 3, 
end when in flower.— —J. N. Byde .—1 and 2, Fragarla 
,e3ca ('snetles of common Strawberry); 3 and 4, Saxi- 

ra 6* Rfunulata (natives).- J. S. E .—Asplenlum Adian- 

oru nigrum. -IF. Pirie.—Sext week. - J. Mercer.— 

lease lend better specimen.- A. C. H.— We do not 

*ame iclargontums or other varieties of florists’ flowers. 

. *• Next week.- A.S .—Piptanthus nepalen- 

t 5 ; ‘ Mvntharn. — A., Doronicum Partialiauehes 
Uopaji] 8 Bane); B., Lonicera Ledebotiri ; C., Doronicum 

■^losiemn.— F. L. />.—Ornithogalum arabicum.- 

”"'*cnto\_Tulipa Oelsiana.-IF. C. G D.— 1, Aerides 

1 2, Dendrobium Parishi; S, Cattleya Skinneri; 

1 Arthropodium drrhatum ; 5, Eranthemum Cooperi. 
fltea.-Pmus Strobus (Weymouth Pine.) 


FiBh nets as protectors.— There is 
'thing new in using fish nets as protectors, but 
these days of cheap glass we are apt to despise 
: old - fashioned precautions, yet anyone 

them once will soon be convinced of their 
u ihty, not only as safeguards against frost, but 
’• ,;r * • specially as a screen to break cold, cutting 
■Trents of wind. In a season wjien vegetatio; 




ltionj rial 

gle 


9818. —Beetles on Roses.—For several years most of 
the young shoots of my Roses on the garden wall have 
beeen eaten off by a small hard black beetle, about half 
the size of a pea. It seems to lodge in the wall during 
the day, and at night when getting dusk I And the 
creature in numbers on the plants. It is not much 
known in this locality. I was recommended to sprinkle 
soot on the plants, the effect of which has been to bum 
off the leaves without interfering with the beetle 
apparently in any degree. It is also doing havoc in the 
greenhouse. Can anyone suggest a remedy ?-J. R. W. 

9819. -Grubs in gardens.— Some grubs are giving 
me a great deal of trouble in my kitchen garden, eating 
up everything as soon as it is a few inches above ground. 
I may say the garden has been lying under Grass for some 
time. A few years ago it was an excellent kitchen garden, 
and I am bringing it back to its former use if these pests 
will allow me. The greater part of it is sown with Pota¬ 
toes, and it was turned up in January. Can anyone tell 
me how to get rid of the grubs?—S. C. 

9820. — Chrysanthemums. — I have a few choice 
Chrysanthemums in good condition and wanting potting 
off. How shall I best grow them in a cottage window, 
and which will do best in a garden with south aspect, of 
the following sortsGolden Cedo Nulll, Mrs. Dix, Progue, 
White Globe, Bijou de Horticulture, White Cedo Nulli, 
Christine, Ariadne, Mrs. Heales, Elaine, Barbara, Madame 
Chalonge, James Slater, Nonpareil, Mr. George Bundle, 
Lilac Cedo Nulll —J. T. M. 

9821. —Paris Daisies and Azaleas.—Ought I to 
allow small plants of Chrysanthemum frufcescens to 
flower now, or should I pinch off the top buds ? The 
plants are quite small, with single stems. If grown on, 
would they flower in the autumn ? Should Azaleas be 
kept in greenhouse facing south till they have completed 
their growth, or should they be moved into a cooler 
place before being placed out-of-doors ?—L. D. 

9822. —Lily of the Valley not flowering’. —I have 
a bed of Lily of the Valley which has been in the same 
position for three years, and although the plants have 
spread wonderfully and produced an abundance of leaves, 
I have only seen one solitary bloom In the three years. 
Will some one kindly inform me the cause and suggest a 
remedy?—!. 

9823. — Retarding Currants and Gooseberries. 
—Can anyone suggest a practical method of keeping Red 
and Black Currants and Gooseberries till the end of 
August. There is not much difficulty with the late sorts, 
of Gooseberries, hut Black Currants especially have a 
tendency to burst and drop off when kept on the bush 
after being ripe.— Grozet. 

9824. —Seaweed in the garden.—T can easily pro¬ 
cure large quantities of seaweed, snd shall be glad to 
know the best method of applying it, whether fresh as 
gathered, or put in heaps to decay, and whether it is 
suitable for general use, or only for certain crops ? The 
ground in my garden is rather heavy, and my gardener 
does not think the seaweed of auy use at all.—R. H. 

9825. —Rose trees from cuttings.—In Garden¬ 
ing, May 12, “Tyrno” 8*iys he is able to strike Rose 
cuttings as freely ns Geraniums. Having some twenty 
own-root Roses, I should be delighted to be able to strike 
a few for pot culture, and if “Tyrno” would give me a 
few simple instructions, I should feel greatly indebted to 
him.—R ose. 

9826. —Crown Imporials.—I planted Crown Impe¬ 
rials three years ago last autumn. They flowered tho 


first spring, but since then have only sent up strong 
leaves, which are now turning yellow and withering. I 
should be glad to know the cause and remedy ?—HAR* 
borne. 

0827.—Arum Lily buds not opening—I have 
an Arum Lily growing in a 6-inch pot, which has been 
showing for flower for several weeks past, hut instead of 
opening the bud is gradually becinning to decay from the 
top. Can any reader kindly tell me a cause and remedy ? 
—G. II. M. 

9828. —Growing Moss.—I wish to grow some Moes 
in a trough with silver sand and water, and insert 
among the Moss cut flowere. Will any reader kindly in¬ 
form me whether I can mix anything with the sand to 
keep the Moss alive?—A. L. S. G. 

9829. —Repairing garden hose —I have a garden 
hose, new only la3tyear, but I find on examination that 
there are several small holes in it, which, if not at once 
attended to, will soon render it useless. Can any reader 
tell me how to repair it?—P. R. P. 

9830. —Fuchsia cuttings.—I have an old Fuchsia 
root at home in a border facing south, just breaking into 
growth. I want to take some cuttings from it Will 
some one kindly inform me when and how to do this ? 
-W. 

9SS1.—Water plants.—What sort of plants thrive 
best out-of-doors in a stream of water or on marshy 
land ? I have lately bought a piece of ground of that 
nature, and it has nothing on it but a few willowB. I am 
anxious to improve the appearance of it.—H. S. 

9832. —Newts In greeohouses.’—Will some reader 
of Gardening tell me what Is tho beat way of killing or 
otherwise getting rid of newts, which have lately infested 
our stoves and greenhouses, and are rapidly becoming 
more numerous ?—M. A. P. 

9833. —Slugs eating Strawberries.—I planted a 
bed of .Strawberry plants last Scptembor, and now' they 
are nearly all eaten. How can I remedy tills evil?— 
Amateur. 

9884.—Plants for small greenhouse.—I have a 
small heated greenhouse. What can I grow best in it 
with not too much trouble; also, would fish live in a 
small aquarium in this greenhouse ?— Enquirer. 

9835. —Blind-hearted Broccoli, &c.— Can any 
reader of Gardening tell me the cause of Broccoli and 
Cauliflower being blind-hearted, and suggest a pre¬ 
ventive ?— A Y LKSBURY. 

9836. —The Cotton plant.—I put a few’ seeds of the 
Egyptian variety of the Cotton plant in n pot some time 
since, and the plants are now' about 6 inches high. What 
should be their future treatment ?—R, H. 

9837. —Pompone Chrysanthemums for show. 
—Will some reader kindly give me the names of tho best 
six Pompones for show in October, with a few r hints on 
management ?—T. H. 

9838. —Nettle beer.—Can anyone give me a recipe for 
making Nettle beer ? I have heard it is a good medicine. 
What are its properties, and how is it prepared for use, 
Ac. ?—MEDICUS. 

9839. —Growing Auriculas.—Will some reader give 
me a few hints on Auriculas, what Boil and treatment do 
they require?—W. E. J. 

9840. —Pit for Cucumbers.—Will any reader give 
me a few hints on building a small pit, 10 feet by 6 feet, 
to be heated by a flue at small expense ?—Amateur. 

9841. —Genistas after flowering. — What treat¬ 
ment do these require after flowering ? Are they of any 
use for another year ?—J. T. F. 

9842. —Grafted Roses.—Would any reader kindly 
say at what depth grafted Roses should be planted, and 
also if grafted Roses are as good as budded ones ?—J. H. 

9843. —Preparation of bone manure.—Can any¬ 
one give me a recipe for the preparation of bones with 
nitro-muriatic acid for manure ?-J. Y. R. 

9844. —Blanching Celery.—Will someone give me 
a few hints on blanching Celery with paper?—A mateur. 

9345.—Wire worms .—Can any reader oblige me with 
the best remedy for destroying wirewormB?— Enquirer. 


POULTRY. 


Chicken.— As regards feeding chicken at 
night by candlelight, we must certainly advise 
it during early spring, if the fancier desires 
them to mature quickly. In the ordinary course 
of things, chicken would not be hatched until 
April or May, when the days are long, so that 
they can pick up food until seven or eight in 
the evening, and commence again at five in the 
morning. This reduces the hours of fast to nine 
only. But during the long winter nights it often 
extends to fourteen hours, which sadly mars the 
chance of the chick ever growing to a fine bird. 
It is all very well to talk about what the birds 
would do if in a natural state, but our present 
domestic fowl is far from being in its natural 
state, in fact, is purely artificial. What bird, 
unless artificially bred and treated, would lay 
200 eggs in one year ? How often do we hear 
of pullets commencing to lay at five months 
old, and continuing right through the winter 
without once having a desire to sit. If our fowls 
were treated the same as pheasants, what would 
be the result in a few years time? Why the hens 
would commence to lay in the spring twelve 
months after they were hatched, and the 
utmost we should get from them would 
be a dozen or so of eggs at a time, followed by 
a desire to sit. It has been proved beyond doubt 
that chicken hatched as early as possible in the 



156 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[June 2, 1881 


spring and well cared for, in fact treated just 
like a gardener treats his early plants, will amply 
repay the poultry fancier, as the plants do the 
gardener. Fowls mast be treated as machines, 
and fed and tended as such if profit is to be 
made out of them. Most of our largest breeders 
and exhibitors invariably go round about ten 
o'clock at night with a lantern and a piece of 
board painted black on which is spread the food. 
Small grain, snch as wheat or groats is best, as 
lasting longest in the chickens’ crops. The 
youngsters are only too willing to come from 
under the mother and partake of it, and the 
system is a good one, beyond doubt. Of course 
people who still stick to the old style of hatching 
late, and then leaving the brood to almost look 
after itself, will read this with astonishment, 
but they would soon find a difference in the 
number of eggs and well fed table fowl if they 
would only alter their treatment.— An dalubi an. 

Commencing poultry keeping.— D. 
G. F. —Do we understand that you intend to 
devote all the yard, 25 feet by 23 feet, to the 
poultry, or only the run of 15 feet by 4 feet ? If 
the former be the case, you might keep ten or 
a dozen birds in health. We would recommend 
you to keep either Brahmas or Plymouth rocks, 
or if you would prefer a cross, get some hens of 
either breed and run a Houdan cock with them. 
This would produce good birds. We must remind 
you, however, that you are commencing at a 
very bad time, as it is too early to buy pullets, 
and too late for last year’s birds, the latter being 
now very difficult to distinguish from old hens. 
If you could procure a brood of chicken hatched 
in February or March at about Is per bird,you 
would be doing well, and no doubt would be 
enabled to rear some pullets which would lay- 
through next winter. Tf you could roof in the 
portion of the run 15 feet by 4 feet, it would 
prove a great boon to the birds, and with wire 
down the front, would make a useful run. The 
house 4 feet square is rather small for a dozen 
birds.— Andalusian. 

Eggs tainted.— L. 31. B.— One autumn 
several years ago we often had tainted and fusty 
eggs, We scolded the cook; she declared “ the 
hens laid them bad." We did not believe her. 
The next spring the eggs were much worse; 
nearly half the pullets laid fusty eggs. The 
cockerels, when killed for table, were, maDy of 
them, quite uneatable. We could find nothing 
wroDg until we began to cook them, then they 
smelt dreadful. As we never could tell which 
were bad and which were good, we killed them 
all except the cock and two hens, which we gave 
away. One is all right; the other had to be 
killed and buried. About the time the eggs first 
went wrong some sheep broke into our field. 
Could they have left the infection of fluke 
behind them ? The fowls were silver-spangled 
Ham burghs, and were the admiration of all who 
saw them. We had the breed several years, and 
that was the first and last thiDg ever the matter 
with them.—H. M. 

Wild ducks. —“East Anglia" appears to 
miss the point of my enquiries. I was careful 
to explain that mine were tame-bred wild ducks, 
in fact so tame is the duck that she feeds freely 
from my hand. She is now laying again—thirty- 
seven eggs in all since March 21—she does not 
forsake her nest although I remote the eggs 
daily, but a nest-egg is always left. I place the 
eggs in a basket, small end downwards (I hope 
this is right), and when she ceases to lay, I pro¬ 
pose to return the last nine or ten for her to sit 
upon. Her present nest is under some sticks 
close to the dining-room (French) window, and 
she greatly appreciates gifts of Moss and leaves 
for covering her eggs when she leaves the nest 
to feed. Of course they do a little damage in 
the garden, but, on the other hand, there is not 
a slug to be seen, and a quarter of a bushel of 
maize has lasted them (one pair) nearly six 
months. So, from my experience, I wonder they 
are not more often kept as pets. I hope “ Devon 
Dabbler" will see this, as I think the cause of 
his duck deserting her nest was the absence of a 
nest-egg. I may mention that my birds came 
from his county, so I hope he will have greater 
success next time.—C, A. J. 

Black swans. —Are the swans " J. H. 
Verrall" mentions Jet black or raven black ? I 
saw yesterday in Cannon Hill Park a pair that 
were called black, but they were only a dark 
grey, and appeared to be a smaller species than 
the regular white ones. I presume black swans 

by Google 


are hardy enough to stand the rigour of an 
English winter, as i.TO is a large sum to give 
for a pair if they will not.—S. Hart. 

BEES. 

SEASONABLE NOTES. 

Management of swarms —Owing to the 
absence of bright, warm weather until the 
middle of May, the bees were not able to fully 
avail themselves of the rich store of provision to 
be obtained from the fruit trees while in 
blossom, and as large numbers of young bees 
are not raised till food comes in rather 
abundantly, swarming has consequently been 
very late this season. Where, however, stocks bad 
been regularly fed, some swarms were obtained 
earlier, hot where this has cot been attended to, 
stocks have died in many instances from want. 
Swarms should be always assisted by feeding 
for the first week or so, even if the weather be 
favourable to honey gathering, and is absolutely 
necessary in wet, cold seasons, because as soon 
as a swarm is hived, the bees begin to prepare 
for the secretiou of the wax with which to form 
series of cells to serve as cradles for the young 
brood, and receptacles for pollen and honey-. 
About two pounds of comb is required to till an 
ordinary hive, and it is estimated that bees 
require to consume twenty pounds of honey in 
order to produce one pound of wax ; it must 
therefore be a great saving of time and labour 
to the bees if fed while comb-building eperations 
are going on. If the weather be unfavourable 
to gathering supplies, and beee are not fed, 
comb-building proceeds very slowly, breeding is 
retarded, the bees lose activity, the season goes 
by, and no profit is made ; therefore feed swarms 
liberally and regularly until as much comb is 
built as the bees can cover. Still, care must be 
taken not to feed to excess (not more than half 
a pint of syrup a day should be given), or too 
much drone-comb will be built. As soon as cells 
are built, the rearing of the brood becomes the 
chief rare and object of the bees, the workers 
being incessantly employed on every favourable 
opportunity in gathering pollen, which after 
undergoing a conversion into a whitish jelly, is 
supplied to the yeung grubs from the time they 
are hatched till they change into the nymph 
state, but little honey being stored until an 
ample quantity of pollen is laid up. The syrup 
with which swarms are fed, should consist of 
white sugar and water, the proportions being 
ten pounds of sugar to seven pints of water 
with one ounce of vinegar, and one ounce of salt 
added, boiled for a few minutes, keeping well 
stirred to prevent burning. 

Supering. —When honey begins to come in in 
large quantities, frames of section-boxes should 
be placed at the back or on either side of the 
brood nest, each section containing a small 
piece of clean comb or foundation, as a starter 
and guide; the sections may also be used on the 
top of the hive, placed in rows in racks, with 
separators of tin, zinc, or glass. These separators 
ensure the combs being built flat and of regular 
thicknesses, and prevent them intruding on one 
another. Straw hives having a hole in the top 
can be supered if the hole be covered with queen 
excluder (zinc), otherwise the queen might be 
tempted to ascend into the supers and deposit 
eggs in them, and thus the spotless purity of 
super honey would be spoilt. Bees naturally 
store their surplus honey above and at the back 
of the brood nest, sections being more readily 
filled if placed in the body of the bar-frame hive 
than they are if placed on the top, but shallow 
hives with a large area above give the greatest 
quantity of super honey. As sections become 
filled they should be removed and empty ones, 
provided with comb guide take their place. 
Whether on skeps or bar-frame hives, all supers 
should be well protected by some warm covering, 
such as cloth, flannel, or carpet, to prevent the 
escape of heated air, for if not so protected the 
bees will leave them on cold nights and dis¬ 
continue their labours, which may not be resumed 
till the middle of the next day, and thus much 
time be lost. Where glass supers are used they 
ehould have pieces of drone-comb fiSed to the 
top. If not so assisted the bees build their combs 
upward, as they cannot walk upon the glass, and 
If so built will sometimes fall over before com* 
pleted Drone-comb is given In pfeferencs to 
worker oomb, It being muoh better for storing 
honey In, rio pollen being stored In it, etid lets 


wax is used in proportion to the honey st® 
The comb should be attached by warmingti 
glass super, and gently rubbing the piece - 
comb where it is to be fixed, and it will, vi 
glass cools stick to it, or the oomb may te lie 
to the perforated zinc ventilating tube vhict 
provided to bell glasses. The time te tht 
supers upon stocks is when the bees show tig 
of want of room, all the combs being coverts: 
the bees and honey coming in abundantly J 
then they will most probably ascend k 
commence working in the super, and swamia 
may thus be prevented, or some surplus boa 
secured before the swarm leaves. If snjen x 
put on before the hives are full of bees the 
will not go into them, but swarm in preferec;. 
In a good season supers may be given to smz 
from the eighteenth to the twenty-first dayafa 
hiving. S. S. G. 

Boxtrortk. 


Management of parrots.—"Auk: 

need not be surprised at the death of his pant 
as thousands of them die every year, killed! 
our climate. Two of mine died from this cm 
One of them we killed by steam and cards 
ness one washiDgday—causing inflsmnati:: 
the lungs. All of them, when first bought, n 
wild and savage, yelling and screaming bone. 
One became the pet of the family, walking ix 
the house at will, climbing over the tables, a 
helping itself at meal times, and being as ta 
and fond of nursing as a kitten. Obsp 
parrot food and drink as near to natuni 
possible. I feed mine on Indian core, a a. 
hemp seed, bread and butter, rice pudding,ci 
a little meat, give her bones to pick tea 
spools to play with, cayenne pepperpodsocas: 
ally. I have never Been any evil effectsfollotti 
method of diet. I give water or milk—milker j 
ferred—three or four times a day. Ido cal* 
this in the cage, as she always tries, and p 
rally manages, to get the vessel upside dons 
the cage. The cage has no door, so “Poll;'?# 
in and out at pleasnre. To teach a pane:! 
talk, make a pet of her, constantly talk tek, i 
repeat over and over again to her such phe 
as “ Good morning," “ How are yon I" i 
are you doing ?” and in six months she will tr» 
imitate you. Never frighten the bird, k«r "- T 
out of draughts, supply her every- dayriiH-is 
sand about the size of pepper coms-rfe' 
this she will die, unless always fed on id:- ' ■ 
such as tea or milk sops. After all, you wfll'a-j 
that what will kill one parrot will feed r 
fatten another; but your reward for ill 
trouble will probably be a bird that an nS. 
whistle, laugh, or cry.—J. S. R., SktfitU 
Parrot having fltB.— E. if.—h thepe« 

of wood (Laurel is the best), the cage cted 
daily, plenty of fresh gravel given? Is the cage 
damp? Does “E. M.” give plenty of (’* 
water, a bath, plenty of air, a constant dc? 
of food, seed, mixed hemp, canary, millet. - 
rape ? No sop, nor on any account all hemp. Ik" 
had many years’ experience with all kind :, 
parrots, and have never yet been unsuccess- 
Sometimes they will ail, then lequire saffron, p 31 
vine, rice, eggs, Ac , Ac., according to the 1 
ment. Great cleanliness, constant ebangs ot 
food, and plenty of fresh air are the meant- 
effect a cure. —Penico. 

Canaries not singring. — Our caart 
which is kept in a small cage in theparlour,"-' 
to be an excellent singer. This spring be 
been mute for mouths, never having sung s* 
moulting time. When making up the roc® : 
the mornings, the maid opened the window* - ' 
the cage hung, and it occurred to me that « e 
draught might have something to do ™ 
Dickey's unusual quietness. For some : - 
he has been taken to our bedroom, and brooB- 
back to the parlour at breakfast time. Tbis tn-' 
bad the most marvellous effect upon “ffl- 
Whether the change is attributable to esaP !, ; p 
the morning draught at the window,or to the 
excursions from one room to the other, i 
say, but Dick sings now as in former yean 
J. M. 

In _ElndlT itllVtr D! n. 


ono advise me es to the best end hardiest «ib’r 

1 went the kind, that would be most , 

(prlntm-nllj finches) end those most fikelf W 
confinement. An/ Information on the mblvt 
ewnttj-ob’lev, - C n, 



GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED 


Yol. Y. 


JUNE 9, 1883. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Continued from giage. 148.) 


Winter Bedding. 

Any kind of furniture is better than barren¬ 
ness : so the beds, however meagrely planted in 
winter, look better for having some kind of fur¬ 
niture in them. I have known an air of homeli¬ 
ness and satisfaction imparted to a garden in a 
few hours for a temporary purpose by sticking 
branches of evergreens over the beds to make- 
oclieve there were little plants growing there. 

VV here a stock of little shrubs of various kinds 
ran be kept in reserve for filling only a few of 
the beds in winter, a pleasant diversity of effects 
appropriate to each season may be created. 
Bulbs may blend with the shrubs for spring 
"effect, and some beds may be planted altogether 
with spring flowers ; and so the winter and spring 
may meet and blend in the garden without 
separating lines. Of late years considerable 
attention has been given to shrubs suitable for 
massing in winter, and below I give a list 
adapted for filling flower beds at that season, 
and, being frequently transplanted, they will 
•emain at a manageable size for a number of 
fears with a little pruning. The variegated 
Hollies and the spiral.growing Conifers will 
take off the dumpiness of the low fiat things : 
Aucuba japonica, A. j. mascula, Buxus japonica 
lurea, B. auffrutioosa argentea marginata nova, 
Cnpressns Lawsoniana albo variegata, C. L. 
erecta viridis, C. L. lutea, C. L. nana glauea, 

• Cryptomeria elegans, Ericaherbacea carnea, E. 
vulgaris aurea, Euonymus radicans variegatus, 
Uedera (Ivy) arborea aurea, H. a. clegantissima, 
.11. a. Regneriana, H. a. fruoto-luteo (yellow- 
berried), J uniperns sabica (Savin), J. s. varie¬ 
gata, J. tamariscifolia, Laurestinus, Ligustrum 
qaponicum (Japan Privet), Mahonia aquifolia, 
Osmanthnsilicifolius, Pemettya mucronata, and 
others. The Pemettya has branched out under 
the hands of the hybridist of late years into 
many varieties, bearing different coloured 
berries. Retinospora ericoides, R. obtusa aurea 
nana, R. plumosa, R. p. argentea, R. p. aurea, 
R. sqnarrosa Veitcbiana, Taxus baccata aurea, 
T. elegantissima, T. aurea, T. elegantis- 
sima, T. vervatneana, Thujopsis dolabrata, 
Veronica decussata. Vinca elegantissima, Yucca 
recurva, and others. 

Of course, scarcely any one garden would re¬ 
quire ail those named above, bnt everybody 
should possess a power of selection, and in all 
the large nurseries they may be seen, and ex¬ 
amples of the beBt things for this purpose are 
frequently exhibited at the great London and 
other shows. 

Change of design .—The same groups of beds 
planted in the same way, with the same coloured 
flowers, must in time become monotonous. Even 
beds and borders of herbaceous plants are bene¬ 
fited by removal occasionally to a fresh site. 
When the beds or borders are surrounded by 
gravel, the matter is not so easy, as it involves 
more work than just marking out a few beds on 
turf, but such work is exceedingly interesting, 
and it finds something for restless horticultural 
spirits to do and to think about, and keeps up a 
perpetual interest. We all need a change some¬ 
times, and if we looked upon our flower beds 
and borders as moveable objects, not only would 
these changes be pleasing in themselves, but onr 
taste would be educated, so to speak, by fami¬ 
liarity with different combinations; and the 
grouping experimentally of plants and flowers, 
and their numberless forms and types of beauty, 
would tend to increase the love of Nature, and 
raise up in us an earnest spirit of reverence and 
love for the good and beautiful. 

(lardy Edging Plants .— Where a group of 
beds are expected or desired to be always in a 
“right,cheerful condition, the value of edgings of 
liardy plants or low growing shrubs will soon 
meet with appreciation. A band of Ivy, 1 foot 
or 18 inches wide, will fit in appropriately in 
many places if well managed. If the design is 
on gravel, the Ivy may be used in the place of 
'he Box, and on Grass, the green of the Ivy being 
of a darker tint, will form a harmonious band or 
connecting link between the Grass and the 

Digitizes by GOOQle 


flowers. The Golden Yew, the Golden Box, the 
Silver Euonymus (radicans variegatus), the 
dwarf pink-flowered Heath (Erica herbacea 
carnea), the dwarf evergreen Barberry (aqni- 
folia), several of the dwarf Japanese Cy¬ 
presses, such as Retinospora plumosa aurea and 
obtusa aurea nana, and the Vinca elegantissima 
will be useful. Then, for small beds, there are 
dwarf plants in great variety, of which I shall 
only name a few: Arabia albida variegata, 
Stachys lanata, Golden Thyme, Festuca glauea, 
Lamium maculatum. The variegated Coltsfoot 
is a very striking plant, either in a mass or as an 
edging, but it has one objectionable feature; 
when it dies down in winter it disappears alto¬ 
gether, but its underground stems continue at 
work, and it may, perhaps, come up in some other 
part of the garden in spring. I have a large bed 
edged with this Coltsfoot, and very striking it 
looks in summer, but the young off-sets must be 
carefully sought for in spring,and be lifted with 
a piece of root attached, and planted again where 
they are to live dnring the summer. 1 have 
just been looking round the bed to find the 
whereabouts of the crimson and green 
coloured leaves which are now rapidly rising 
through the ground. Some of the little bright 
offsets are in the grass 4 feet or 5 feet 
from their point of departure, others 
are as much the other way, having travelled 
into the centre of the bed. When one is 
acquainted with the habit of the plant, we know 
where to look for its uprising. Sedum lydium and 
S. glaucum, Cerastium tomentosum, and several 
of the Saxifragas, are pretty. Some of the plants 
named may be left from year to year, but the 
Seduras are best transplanted annually—at least 
I like to replant all the beds that occupy con¬ 
spicuous positions. Edgings of Ivy are easily 
formed; the site should be well prepared, as even 
Ivy does best in good land made firm. If 
planted in autumn cuttings will do pegged down 
close to the surface, which should have been put 
into shape with the rake, and made firm by 
beating with the spade, the same as is done with 
Box edging, only instead of opening a trench as 
for Box, the cuttings, which should be about fi 
inches long, are dibbled in in rows and pegged 
down immediately close to the surface of the 
ground. 

Propagation of Bedding Plants. 

The usual way of securing a stock of tender 
exotics for the flower garden, such as Pelar¬ 
goniums, Verbenas, &c., is to put in the bulk of 
the cuttings in August. All the Pelargonium 
family strike best in the open air fully exposed 
to the sun, but the thinner they are placed the 
stouter and hardier the little plants are, and the 
less mortality there is among them in the ensuing 
winter. I have rooted the cuttings in small 
single pots, in store pots ten or so in a pot, also 
in boxes, and have dibbled them in the open 
border, and they may be successfully managed in 
all or any of these several ways ; bnt individual 
circumstances must guide and control us in this 
matter. I will only observe, further, the more 
the plants are exposed to the sunshine and air, 
the better they will go through the dark days of 
winter. Sandy loam should form the great bulk 
of the soil for striking the cuttings in, and they 
may remain in the open air as long as they can 
do so with safety. Some people place the cut¬ 
tings of the delicate variegated Pelargoniums in 
frames under the shelter of glass, but years ago, 
when I grew these things largely, I tried every 
plan that suggested itself to me for increasing 
them rapidly, and no plan succeeded so well as 
dibbling them thinly in a warm, south border, in 
the full sunshine, in August, never to shade, and 
to give bnt little water, potting them into 
2.j-inch pots as soon as they were rooted, and 
wintering them on shelves close to the glass 
in a dry, rather cool house. The same treat¬ 
ment will suit all the Geranium family, 
and by no other plan can such nice sturdy 
plants be obtained; but then we are all the 
victims of circumstances, more or less, and 
we must cut onr garment according to our 
cloth. Verbenas and all other soft plants (Pelar¬ 
goniums excepted) will succeed best in a close 
frame without artificial heat, as in August, by 


No. 222. 


keeping the frame close and utilising the sun's 
warmth, a genial temperature will be obtained. 
The only thing to guard against is damp 
arising from a stagnant atmosphere, and the 
best way to obviate this is to ventilate 
freely early in the morning, say from six 
o’clock to nine or ten o'clock, and then as 
the sun’s power is making visible effect, close 
the frame and put on a light Bhade. The 
watering, when it is necessary, should be done 
in the morning. In this way, pretty well every 
sound, healthy cutting will root. In autumn 
propagation it is customary to use rather larger 
cuttiDgsthan in spring, as at that time, when the 
cuttings are plentiful, we have the power of 
selection, and should take none to stand the 
winter but those full of healthy vigour. In the 
spring propagation artificial heat is necessary, 
and, where large numbers are required, a pro¬ 
perly constructed propagating house is desirable, 
and the best I ever had was a low span-roofed 
structure partly sunk in the ground, fitted with 
a wrought-iron tank on one side in direct con¬ 
nection with the boiler. The tank was covered 
with slates, and on the slates was the plunging 
material, partly sand and partly Cocoa-fibre, the 
latter substance being specially suitable for 
things that required rather more time than 
Verbenas and ordinary bedding stuff. But where 
only a limited number of plants are required to 
be rooted in spring for the flower gardeD, and 
the usual order of soft-wooded plants for green¬ 
house, such as Fuchsias, Ac., a hotbed and frame 
will answer every purpose, and if it commands 
a bottom-heat of 75° it will meet every require¬ 
ment. 

The month of March is a good time to begin 
propagating, as by that time plenty of nice fresh 
shoots can be obtained to form cuttings, and the 
fresher and softer they are the better they will 
root. The cuttings need not be large, as in spring 
the growth is rapid, and every bit will strike, bnt 
granting all this, still the stronger and healthier 
the cuttings, the better and more vigorous the 
plants will be, as a rule. I have often, in the case 
of new things, pushed them severely, with the 
view of increasing stock rapidly, but when this 
forcing process is carried to extremes, debility is 
often present in the offspring. The soil for 
spring propagating should be light, and sandy 
and it should be pressed firmly in the pots 
Bedding plants may be propagated in spring in 
a wholesale way by just dibbling the cuttings 
into beds of soil placed over a gentle hotbed 
under frames. The cuttings will root in a week, 
and in another week the tops may be taken off 
and planted in another frame which is coming 
on in succession, and when a sufficient stock has 
been created, the whole can be hardened off by 
removal of the glass in the daytime, and about 
the third week in May the plants can be carefully 
separated and planted into the beds and borders. 
This is a very inexpensive way of raising large 
numbers of plants, and they will commonly suc¬ 
ceed better in the beds than those that have 
been starved and pinched in pots. 

Wintering Bedding Plante. 

Light, well ventilated houses are best for 
wintering plants which only require to be pre¬ 
served from frost and damp, and the nearer the 
glass the stages and shelves are the better. In 
mild, calm weather, it is hardly possible to give 
too much air, and only sufficient fire must be 
used to keep out frost. A boiler and hot-water 
pipes are usually recommended for safety and 
cleanliness, but for a house where only a fire is 
required occasionally, a flue is not to be de¬ 
spised. 1 know several little houses that are only 
required to keep out the frost in winter, where a 
fine gives every satisfaction, and is cheaper than 
a boiler and pipes would be, as it burns up all 
the cinders and refuse from the woodyard and 
house. In the management of bedding plants 
in winter, dead leaves on the plants, or Moss 
and weeds in pots, must have no existence, as 
cleanliness is just as important to the health of 
plants as it is to human beings. The plants 
dnring the short days most be kept on the side 
of dryness at the root, rather than wet; yet, at 
the same time, they must not suffer from 
drought, and whenever water is given, enough to 





GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[June 9, lBtsS 


moisten all the soil in the pots should be poured of Souvenir de la Malmaison for decorative buds on the lower side of the shoots to -I 
gently on the top of each pot. T he best time to purposes. The sixth is a soft sulphur yellow, budded would be a work of considerable difj 


E. Hobday. 


uns suujeci. wnen 1 come 10 ireai oi grass tninner Dud, but remarkably fine under glass and ease with which it can be so performed. Ill ; 
erections generally. E. Hobday. extremely useful. It is more like a true yellow be inserted in August, so that they he c 

- China than any other Rose, and is not so gene- induced to start that year, but none the let-« 

Flowers for sketching.—We shall be rally grown as its merits deserve. Of Gloire de well attached to the wood of the stock it d, 
glad if our readers, commercial or otherwise, will Dijon it can only be said that glass refines both not seem probable that they would suffer fra 
send ns from time to time specimens of any good bud and flower, and that it flowers as persist- frost and rain more on the" upper than in a, 
and useful flower for figuring. In all cases the ently under glass as in the open, and, having no lower side. It is generally thought also tha 
flowers should bo sent with fairly long stalks, frost to check it, it is always in bloom. No Sis buds on the top sides of branches break shots, 
and where possible with foliage also. useful in bud. and an amazingly free bloomer, than do those on the lower sides, and that 

- Jladame Bravy is a beautiful cream-coloured be an additional reason for the present rule.—I 

ROSES Rose, with a blush in its eye, and does better-The buds are sometimes inserted in the a--. 

under glass than in the open air. No. 10 is of side of the shoot, but they do not stow » well, nni c,i 
similar character, but has whiter petals, with a , , ,rt ‘ 8c !l t ,n ugly appearance, an the branehMere»br 
HOSES ON BRIER STOCK . salmon centre. No. 11 is anothe^em of the d ° " 0t b«4-A. H. imr 

The reason why standard Roses purchased from 8ame general strain, and an exquisite Rose- ' —- 

nurseries persistently send up suckers and refuse while Souvenir d’un Ami is as fine as Adam or TREES AND SHRUBS 

to thrive with ordinary treatment is not, as President, but a more decided rose self and - 

“A Practical Man” would have us believe, equally large and line. No doubt many will miss WISTARIA SINENSIS, 

because they are hard pruned, but because a favourites in this list, but these Roses do well When in full flower, this is one of the nob's- 
large proportion of the Briers are in such a state uuder glass, while not a few of the finer Teas plants we have for Covering walls and 
about the roots as to render them untit for an <i Nnisptfp« thrive „ a ^ a \ - u ®, uuu irtJ 

budding. The only really perennial piece of the -'5 erentI Z.. and and ‘“* h , arehwa ? 8 ’ Being a free grower, U sc. 


ROSES. 

ROSES ON BRIER STOCKS. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


budding. The only really perennial piece of the a i most re f use to bloom under such conditions 

lJog Rose or Brier is the underground part or _;) -p 

creeping and spreading stem, commonly known -- 

as the Brier root. This keeps on sending up SINGLE-PRO WE RED ROSES 

strong shoots; when one of these shoots is . 

lifted and replanted with a great piece of the j f . *!. r ® a m present ime isagrow- 

underground stem attached to it, the piece of J’ ’ ° ", £ ™ eB ' Dahlias, which a few 

° ’ r Years Wnillfl hnvp hppn f IPDnrn n 1__ 


covers a large space if each year’s growth 
allowed to grow its whole length; but wk 
pruned in the winter, the shoots are often Id 
too long. It does best when they are cut do. 
rately short. It then flowers freely, and u 


underground stem attached to it the piece of -g taste for single flowers". Dahlias, whichafew duces strong side shoots, or rather br^4 
underground stem keeps on sending up fresh T ears W would have been thrown away because which should be cut back to three eye. fete 


shoots from dormant or fresh buds, and the 
shoot which it is intended to bud gets no sap, 
and the Bose on it will most likely die. Briers 
should not be used for budding, unless it is 
found, on lifting them, that there is a good 
strong system of roots evidently connected with 
the shoot to be budded, so that nearly the 
whole clump of underground wood can be 
removed without injury. If that can be done, 
and the shoot to be budded is young, the 
standard will most likely answer. In standards 
purchased from nurseries, one very often finds 
that the budded shoot has no roots connected with 
it, but, on the contrary, all the root fibres spring 
either from actual suckers, or from the eyes from 
which these spring; these standards cannot 
thrive, and should never be sold to anyone. If 
driers are purchased for budding in that state, 
they may be planted deep, and induced to 
form roots by making a small incision in the 
bark of the shoot near the bottom of it; they 
can then be lifted when rooted, and the 
underground wood, with all its belongings, 
removed. If planted deeply they may some¬ 
times root from the stem, but there is great risk 
of loss. Where established standards show a 
great tendency to form suckers, they may be 
lifted in the autumn, and have all the wood re¬ 
moved from which suckers spring, and be re¬ 
planted in fresh, well-manured soil, which will 
give them a fresh lease of life. I moved an old 
standard last autumn which had originally been 
planted so deeply that it was the only survivor 
out of a short row of six. It had filled a circle 
of nearly 6 feet with suckers, but as these had 



- wl 


Single-flowered Rose (Ross rugosa ) 


year, and spurred iu short afterwards. Fine a 
ceiues of beautiful pale blue flowers will ttas 
produced. Long rods, nailed to walls or tie-dc 
trellises, look naked; but, well spurrri i 
they produce from nine to twelve flowers roi 
each spur at one time. This plant will grove 
flower freely upon any aspect, and if planted cp~. 
different aspects, it may be had in bloom fa 
long period. We have a fine plant of it nput. 
south and west -wall in bloom, and the 33 
plant is also growing upon a north andeasuk 
where it commences to bloom when tie potii! 
growing upon the south and west aspect' is 
finished flowering, thus prolonging ita bet- 
till late in the summer. Often by the time at 
part growing upon the north wall has £nis* 
flowering, we get our second crop of bloontpe- 
rally a good one, upon the south wall. Wisur* 
are generally propagated by layering otn-t® 
old shoots, which should be done as bood - ta 
wood is ripe in autumn, when they willhiKtsi 
the following autumn: they will then be i»:r 
to plant into nursery rows, when they ehstldw 
cut back moderately short, to induce tkn u 
produce strong shoots. Plants can also be real 
from cuttings made of the ripe one-jeu-si 
shoots. Cut them into lengths from 9 inches-s 
12 inches, and insert them in pots filled tiii 
light loam and leaf-mould, with a sprinkling - 
silver sand to keep the whole open. After ii 
serting the cuttings, place the pots in s <&• 
frame during the winter, when the cuttings si 
soon callous, and may be placed ont-of-dwts - 
summer. The plants will there get rooted, si: 
be ready to plant in nursery rows iu autumn, n 


UL iiuaiiv IJ ICCtl W 1 L-ll OUbltClOi UUU LUOOO UCVU ,t . ... * , , 

to come up through nearly two feet of solid clay, they were single, are now eagerly sought after. ma J be potted into small pots the fist, 
they were very weak, and did not much affect, Hosa rugosa, a single-flowered Rose, continues ‘ ndards are formed sometimes, and sre 
the health of the Rose. On lifting it I found year after year to become more popular, and ®5 ectl ! e . wbe ° P r °P er *y trained and kept « 
the whole of these suckers sprung from the club deservedly so, for its large, showy, crimson bios- s P“£r e ^ ln( t urlE Ktheearly stages of their ga 

of underground wood, but the upright stem had soms, or snow white in the variety alba, are the ’ _ 

nniteawigof strongrootsspringingfromit.sothat first among Roses to expand, and a ricli succession _._ .. _ . ,,, 

the whole underground wood could be removed ; °t ft cm is kept up till late in the summer. Its , -*" a P’ e ® ln tL© flower garden, 
that standard is ten years old, and is now grow- fruit, too, is large and very ornamental. The 37 ?, aE 8 3 , rn s0 we , adapted for ftemi m 
ing vigorously. J. D. white variety is also equally handsome. A good “ ‘If e ardeE ^ ‘he many beautiful fa® 

-- deal of discussion has taken place as to the possi- of thc ? Ia P le ’ . wel known Acer 

A dozen Roses for a greenhouse. — bility of obtaining this Rose true from seed, it being '\ l1 1 lb j ^ ’to variegation, in 

I should prefer half a dozen as follows: 1 asse rted that seedlings from it, instead of resem- 1 °* aI1 ® t - a f ldards planted thinly - 

Marshal Kiel ; 2 Niphetos; 3, President or bling their parent were more like those of the 

Adam; 4, Devoniensis ; 6, Lamarqueor Smith's common Brier. That, however, to a great extent - - , , , - ■ E _ 

Yellow; (i, Solfaterrc. To these may be added- has been disproved, and probably originated in a !t^imur™m° sud null 

7 (lloirp dp T)iion • 8 Isabella Borunt • 0 Mdme nnstake, as I have raised a great many seedlines ^ropurpureum, ana septemlobum, and 
Bravv 10 Mdme Wniermoz P U ’ Rouwto and in ever y stance the true RosZnglX ^8 with leaves of varied colouring and ^ 
d'Elise’; and 12, Souvenir d’un Ami* The first been the result. It may be readily struck from dell , cate . ly fimbn ated; these, if planted as c ^ 


or dot plants on a suitable groundwork, are n 


occasionally an outer suriace or a petal sunused — J . v ■ , . U11CIC ’ uuwever, are ' wu^wnhadihari'Y 

with the most delicate pink. The third is nearly ^ ^h oT^wl W ttem f—A to^our^etbe W ^ 

always in flower and under glass is probably the Ht ° th D e sarT1 e?i me af ewnc-ions in tte W pH Golden Feather. fto..wVaimplj removed the ta.** 
finast and most flonferous pmk Rose in exist- ““^““V'Xch^^rooto w U be uroduL A Alternantheras and similar plants in the autuia 
ence. The fourth has no nval where it thrives, P ortlon - trom wtucn roots w ‘» be produced.-A. and fillpdin the pattern with hardyspringtlos,:-. 

the common being far superior under glass to the —---- SQch as Primroses, Pansies, Forget-me-nots, kc. 

climbing, which is apt to climb at such a rate as 9805. — Budding Roses. — Unless the The spring foliage of the little specimen Mapu¬ 
to forget to bloom. Lamarque is a true Perpetual operator could lie on his back and perform which were left undisturbed is now most beau:; 
under glass, and the buds are exquisite, though budding, it is very likely that the attempt to ful. Acer Negundo variegatu’m rising out of a bw 
the fully expanded flowers are as useless as those carry it out on a large scale by inserting the of Dell’s Beet is very effective and the brilliant , 


anded nowers are as use] 

Google 


June 9, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


159 


nts of Acer polymorphum atropurpureum look 
vely rising: from a bed of blue Forget-me-nots 
Nlyosotiadissiti flora) edged with Golden Feather, 
ad one wishing to have really sutiable plants for 
l-the-year-round bedding cannot do better than 
otain a collection of Acers; when too large for 
ie beds they can be planted in permanent groups 
n the lawn or in shrubberies, where their 
tried foliage will be ever welcome.—J. G. L. 


THE COMING- WEEK’S WORK. 

Extract* from a Garden l>iary— June 11 to 
June 16. 

rianling out Walcheren, Snow's Winter White, and 
bite Cape Broccoli. Potting young Primulas, and 
aeing them in a cold frame where they Can be kept 
ose until established. Sowing Champion of England 
'i.i Nonpareil Peas, and French Beans ; also London 
ileworts, and Incomparable Cabbage. Planting Aapara- 
~is; also Celery in trenches for main crop. Putting in 
iveniier cuttings out-of-doors under a hand-light, 
mining Onions, Carrots, and other root crops. Sowing 
ant White Cob and All the Year Round Lettuce. Pot- 
ig Stocks, Asters, Alyssums, Lobelias, and Calceolarias 
r room ami conservatory decoration. Sowing Chicory, 
i American Cress. Planting Scotch Kale, Fearnought 
tbbage, Savoys, Broccoli, and Vegetable Marrows, 
atering thoroughly outdoor Strawberries that are 
elling their fruit, and afterwards covering the ground 
'h short Grass, in order to keep the fruit clean, 
riling in shoots of wall trees, and removing all curly 
rves infested with insect*. 

l otting Musk plants for autumn use; also Lady Ply- 
mth Pelargonium*. Sowing Shilling’s Queen and 
kina’s Matchless Cabbsge, and various kinds of Endive, 
ttnee and Radishes, also Golden Ball and American 
•du>p Turnip. Thinning Apples, Pears, nncl Plums, 
jering British Queen Strawberry runners for next 
ar's forcing. Sowing Canadian Wonder and Long- 
•Jdrd Negro French Beans. Striking Peas and getting 
• m earthed up. Thlnnirg Turnips and Spinach. Sow- 
; ('oieworta and Little Pixie Savoys. Dividing and 
mting out double Daisies. Clipping Box edgings, 
llching Peas with rotten manure. Shifting Clirysan- 
?ninms into their flowering-pots; also Achimcnes. 
wing Sllcne pcudula and Forgot-nie-nots. Turning 
ivel walks to give them a fresh appearance. Nailing in 
tlm leading shoots of Plums, Apricots, and Peaches, 
•1 giving the latter a good washing with the garden 
due every evening to keep down red spider and other 
veto. Cutting back Ivy where overgrowing windows, 
tberiag green Currants for bottling. Planting land 
t cleared of early Peas with Snow’s White ami Cool* 
Matchless Broccoli ; also Neapolitan Cabbage 
ttncea on Celery ridges. 


for indoor cultivation, are all but continuously 
in a growing state the whole year round, and to 
maintain their vigour they must have the soil 
regularly assisted in this way, or else have the 
surface dressed with some light manure, that 
will be washed down in the operation of watering. 
The same applies to pot Roses that have been 
started in succession to follow the winter 
bloomers. Where a house is devoted to Roses it 
is desirable to keep the plants on in a flowering 
condition, even after a supply can be had out-of- 
doors, for in many localities the Tea varieties 
rarely produce flowers in the open air that will 
bear comparison with those grown under glass. 
Plants that have given two or three crops of 
flowers during the winter and spring, will now 
show signs of requiring a rest, however strong 
they may have been, but on no account turn 
them out in the open air until they have been 
somewhat hardened off by discouraging growth 
through cooler treatment. Even in the case of 
such plants as are being thus subjected to a 
resting process, whenever mildew appears it 
should at once be checked by the application of 
sulphur. 

Herbaceous Calceolarias. —Where a good 
strain of these exists, and they are well grown, 
they will have been very effective. Any that 
show marks of superiority in habit of plant or 
form and marking of the flowers should be placed 
by themselves and kept for purposes of propaga¬ 
tion, as well as for seed saving. By selecting in¬ 
dividual plants in this way the strain may bo 
continually improved, but in all cases remember 
that a vigorous, healthy constitution is of the 
first importance, so that the plants are able to 
make plenty of stout foliage, for without this the 
flowers, however perfect, are of no value for 
general decorative use. 

Cockscom Bfl AND Balsam8.—A sowing should 
at once be made of the feathering Cockscombs 
(Celosia pyramidalis), the produce of which will 
bloom later on after the earliest are over. Where 
there is a good strain of this elegant feathery 
Celosia, comprising the brightest shades in 
yellow and pink to deep crimson, and the plants 
are well managed, there is nothing more bean- 


Glasshouses. 

Kalosanthks. —Young stocks of t hese should 
propagated yearly. They strike readily; in 
;f, cuttings will root if merely laid on the 
face of the soil in a greenhouse or pit. The 
»t way is to put single cuttings into small pots 
ed with ordinary loam and sand, selecting 
>ro established plants moderately strong shoots 
it, have not set any flowers. These will root in 
ortnight if kept a little bub not too moist, as 
xulent plants of this kind, if too wet in the 
tting state, are liable to rot. In preparing the 
ttings all that is necessary is to make a clean 
t at the base, and to strip off the leaves of the 
wer portion that is inserted in the soil. When 
ill established in small pots move them into 
hers about 4 inches in diameter, which will be 
rge enough for this season. They will make 
>od tlowering plants in two years. During 
mmer they will succeed in an ordinary green- 
)«se or pit, giving them enough water to keep 
‘C soil in a healthy condition. Kalosanthes are 
nougat the easiest of all plants to manage, but 
frequently happens that they do not flower 
^eely; where this occurs it is the fault of the 
eatment. All that is requisite is to get the 
■ mots properly ripened the summer previous to 
lat in which they are intended to bloom. This 
m only be done with certainty by setting them 
at-of-doors exposed to fall sunshine for a con- 
derable length of time, say from the beginning 
f July to the middle of September. To have 
!ie flowers highly coloured the plants require to 
e placed in the open air just before they begin 
o open. The north side of a wall where they 
M get plenty of light, but not exposed to the 
lid-day sun, answers well. 

Roses.— Where indoor Roses are planted out 
bey will not require nearly so much watering as 
‘hen in pots, but care must be taken that the 
Jtds they occupy are not allowed to become too 
: r>',or the foliage will be sure to be attacked by 
•tildew, and the crop of flowers will be much 
"doced both in size and quantity. It is the 
■nore necessary to see to this as the daily use of 
syringe keeps the surface soil moist, whilst 
'hit underneath may be dry. When the plants 
strong and making vigorous growth, they 
cqnire to be well supplied with manure water. 
^ varieties, which are much the most suitable 

Digitized by GOOOl( 


tiful. The small side branches of the flower- 
spikes are most effective when mixed with any 
combination of cut flowers. The length of time 
during which they will last cither in a cut state 
or on the plant is not the least valuable property 
which they possess, but to prevent their getting 
tall and leggy, they should from the time when 
the seedlings first vegetate be subjected to plenty 
of light and receive as much air as can be ad¬ 
mitted without the atmosphere of the house or 
pit being too much dried up. The same applies 
to Balsams. Where these are allowed sufficient 
head room, with timely shifts into pots big 
enough to admit of due extension of the roots, 
they have a very different appearance from the 
starvelings too often met with. Both the above 
plants enjoy a liberal application of manure 
water after they have begun to grow away. 

Oranges. —Where these exist in either small 
or large examples, and the greatest quantity of 
flowers which they can be made to produce are 
wanted, they should not be allowed to bear fruit, 
as when the plants are in good condition and 
kept a little warmer than in an ordinary green¬ 
house, they flower oftener than when their 
energies are overtaxed by fruiting. Whilst in 
full growth the plants should have frequent 
applications of manure water, in which soot 
ought to be an ingredient, as it is distasteful to 
worms, usually so troublesome in the soil. Where 
Oranges are grown in more or less warmth, one 
of the principal things requiring attention is 
keeping down scale and mealy bug. Where 
these pests are allowed to get numerous before 
means are taken for their destruction, the foliage 
always suffers in a way that makes them un¬ 
sightly, and the free production of flowers is also 
impaired. 

Flower Garden. 

Flowering Shrubs.— All seed vessels should 
be picked off the earlier varieties of Rhodo¬ 
dendrons, straggling shoots pruned in, and 
grafted kinds examined, with the view of re¬ 
moving stock shoots and root suckers. Any plants 
moved in the autumn and winter should still be 
kept mulched, a condition that will obviate the 
necessity of watering. This remark also applies 
to all other kinds of shrubs that have been lately 
transplanted, though no doubt some would be 
the better for having a good soaking of water as 


well as the mulching; any that look critical, and 
must be saved at any cost, should at sunset be 
syringed overhead. Lilacs, Spirjeas, Weigelas, 
Broom, Gorse, and others done flowering, should, 
if needed, either through restricted space or to 
ensure the keeping of the plants equable as re¬ 
gards growth, be pruned into the required form. 
Keep the clumps free from weeds by means of 
surface-hoeings as often as an opportunity offers. 

Roses still need a large amount of attention 
as to cleansing them from aphis and maggots; 
copious waterings in dry weather and surface 
mulchings, which keep the plants in vigorous 
health, will do much to prevent the attacks of 
parasites. Climbing Roses should be kept well 
seoured to their supports, and the old flowers 
should be regularly cut off, an operation which 
will assist in the production of a second bloom. 
In order to destroy green fly, take four ounces of 
Quassia chips, boil them well, and while cooling 
add half the quantity of soft soap to one gallon 
of water. Dip the shoots, where possible, in the 
solution, as that has a better effect than syringing. 
In destroying grubs, unroll the curled leaves and 
take out the destroyer, and do not, as some 
suggest, pick off the foliage. Those who prefer 
perfect blooms to a multitude of unall ones must 
disbud freely, leaving the centre bud and taking 
off the smaller ones. In case the premier bud 
gets eaten or otherwise damaged, it will be 
necessary to leave the largest and most healthy 
side bud. Suckers, both on the Brier and 
Manefcti, must be kept down ; they always come 
off freshest after a shower or early in the 
morning. In damp, cloudy weather liquid 
manure should be applied. Where the ground 
has been made hard through heavy rains, hoeing 
is beneficial to the growth of the plants. 

Climbing plants.— Keep Clematises and 
other climbers closely trained in ; these also need 
plenty of water at both root and top, more 
particularly those plants that are growing close 
to buildings and under over-hanging projections 
where the rainfall cannot reach them. {Supports 
should be placed to Bweet Peas, Scarlet Ruoners, 
Canary Creepers, Convolvuluses, and every other 
kind of annual climber, before there is any risk 
of the growth getting matted. Such plants are 
alike useful for festooning, or drooping over 
ledges of rock or root-work, but even in theFe 
positions it is necessary to occasionally go over 
them to single out, and if needs be to cut away, 
portions of their growth. 

General work.— This will consist in finishing 
beddiDg out and in the removal of every trace 
of untidiness that for a time is unavoidable 
whilst such work is in progress. Trim or peg 
into form every kind of plant that will look the 
better for such manipulation. Pinch the flowers 
of Calceolarias, Violas, Verbenas, Petunias, and 
Pelargoniums, to ensure their earlier and more 
vigorous cstablishmant in the soil. The flowers 
of Lobelias and carpeting plants we prefer to 
remove with a pair of sheep shears, which at the 
same time take off any uneven portions of the 
plant, the growth afterwards being more dense 
and tufty. In the early stages of growth, Alter- 
nantheras and Coleus quickly resent artificial 
watering by refusing to grow at all: preference 
should therefore be given to mulching the beds 
with Cocoa fibre refuse; this renders all water¬ 
ings, except the first to settle the plants in the 
soil, wholly unnecessary. 

Fruit. 

Thin the shoots and berries of Grapes as re¬ 
quired ; only allow one bunch to each lateral, 
and pinch the shoot at the second eye beyond 
the bunch. If the borders are indoors, see that 
they are thoroughly moistened. SyriDge Melons 
twice a day with clean tepid water; but if 
mildew be suspected, mix with it a little flowers of 
sulphur. Melons ripening require to be kept a 
little on the side of dryness. As the frames are 
now cleared from bedding plants, the latest-sown 
Melons should be put in them; these will come 
in late in the season. The beds need not now be 
made so substantial as was necessary earlier in 
the season; if a good supply of last autumn's 
leaves are at hand, they may be made of at least 
one-half of this and well-prepared manure. 
Three feet in depth will be enough now; beds 
of this description will be sooner cool enough to 
receive the plants than those recommended 
earlier in the season. 

Orchard house.—R emove the early kind of 
Peaches too coolpart of the house, or a separate 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



160 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Juke 9, 1883, 


housealfogether, aa they are cleared of ripe fruit. 
Thin out the wood from which the fruit has just 
been gathered, stop exuberant growths, and 
syringe well to free the foliage from spider. 
Vigorous young trees, which require a shift into 
larger pots, may either be potted as they are 
cleared of fruit, or they may be kept well supplied 
with water of a stimulating nature until the 
whole of the first batch is ready for overhauling. 
Keep them under glass and maintain a moist, 
growing atmosphere until the roots have taken to 
the new compost, then plunge in ashes in the 
open air; mulch to economise watering, and 
syringe overhead on fine evenings. Pay par¬ 
ticular attention to the watering and syringing 
of all kinds of fruit trees in mid-season and late 
houses, and make sure of the water reaching the 
roots of those planted in the borders by mulching 
or forcing a basin round the stems. The best 
time to ascertain whether a tree wants water is 
just before the afternoon syringing, when a 
glance at the pot or the foliage will tell whether 
the roots are dry. Make the final thinning and 
shorten back the Bhoots where a sufficient number 
of promising fruits are swelling near home and 
the shape of the trees can be improved thereby. 
I.et the trees be well syringed soon after six on 
line mornings, and not later than four in the 
afternoon. Open the ventilators when the tempe¬ 
rature begins to rise, and let the time when the 
fruit is wanted be the guide in closing for the 
day. Late or unhealed houses, which now in 
many places give a more certain supply of fruit 
than can be obtained from open walls, may from 
this time forward have the ventilators left con¬ 
stantly open until the fruit is ripe. An erroneous 
opinion prevails with some that house Peaches 
ripen earlier than they do on walls, but if judi¬ 
ciously selected kinds are potted, or, better still, 
planted out, and a constant circulation of air is 
maintained, with due attention to atmospheric 
moisture, fruit equally late and of finer quality 
may be secured. 

Vegetables. 

Early Potatoes should now be earthed up, and 
if this operation can be done after a night's rain, 
they will be made almost independent of the 
weather, the soil added to the rows and the 
foliage together making a capital mulch. Early 
Broccoli raised under glass should now be pricked 
out. I use 2 inches of Mushroom manure and a 
thin layer of soil, placing them in the alleys left 
for fruit trees by the side of the wall—generally 
a westone. The bottom, undersuchcircumstances, 
is hard, and the Broccoli does no harm for the 
short time it requires the ground; in fact, in dry 
seasons the mulch actually benefits the wall 
trees. The Mushroom house should now be 
thoroughly cleaned out, removing all the old 
beds; sweep down the walls, and give them a 
good syringing, and when wet sprinkle them 
and the path and roof with fresh lime, opening 
all ventilators, doors, and windows, so that a 
sweet house may be the result. Mushrooms 
more than anything enjoy a pure atmosphere. 
Outsde beds are bearing here very well. Keep 
them damp by watering the covering of the bed, 
letting the water soak through the straw slowly, 
but surely. Tomatoes should now be planted 
out; bear in mind they want good sound loam, 
but not much manure. It is a question whether 
we do not, as a rule, use too much manure. If 
Tomatoes require any assistance after the fruit 
is set, they will tell you by their looks; and if 
so, give them a couple of good waterings, either 
with manure water or guano; one pound of the 
latter to thirty-six gallons of water is sufficient. 
In localities not favourable to the growth of 
Tomatoes, or where a difficulty has been 
experienced through attacks of the disease with 
which this vegetable has of recent years suffered, 
it would be advisable to grow some in frames. 
If the plants are put into 12-inch pots and 
plunged in the ground, and the frames elevated 
on bricks, so as to give increased head-room, good 
crops may be secured. The principal thing to 
be observed in their culture is to keep the plants 
sufficiently thinned and well tied out, not 
allowing them to suffer for want of water, and 
giving enough air to induce stout growth. Keep 
a good supply of Lettuces tied up and plenty of 
small salads sown.—R. G. 

Soot water. — I observe that several cor¬ 
respondents are puzzled to know how to mix 
soot with water-grepej 
plan I have Adopted- 


y. I think if they try the 
il-ywviil find it answer 


admirably, viz., get the quantity of soot required 
in a basin and mix it with boiling water till it 
forms a thin paste, then dilute with cold water 
to the strength required.—T ypo. 

WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

The bedding plants being now all properly 
disposed in their summer quarters, little remains 
to be done beyond keeping them, all carefully 
watered, stopped, and pegged down in their 
places. Although it is advisable to give one 
good watering after the plants have been put in 
their places, yet it is very injurious to make the 
soil very wet, particularly before they have 
begun to grow, A fair shower overhead from 
the syringe or garden engine will often refresh 
the plants much better than deluging the roots. 
Frequently moving the surface of the soil is 
also a great help; this should be done with a 
small hoe, which is better than a rake for such 
purposes. 

Trees and shrubs newly planted require to 
be kepit properly watered during the present 
bright warm weather, and the same remarks as 
were given above apply with equal force here. 
In fact from this time onwards almost or quite 
all kinds of trees and shrubs will be greatly 
benefited by the copious application of the 
garden engine overhead at least once on every 
bright day. Weigela rosea is now a very beau¬ 
tiful object in the town garden. In very rich 
soil this sometimes grow3 too freely at the 
expense of bloom, but when well-established in 
a warm and rather sheltered situation it usually 
covers itself with its beautiful blooms. Iris, of 
several kinds, are now in great beauty. 

The greenhouse. —Felargoniums coming 
into flower in the greenhouse should receive the 
benefit of abundance of sun and air; they must 
also be freely watered at the root during bright 
weather, and at every alternate watering some 
good, sweet liquid manure, not too strong, should 
be administered. This will greatly help the 
plants, and induce a profusion of well-coloured 
flowers and foliage. Soot and guano water 
alternately is very effectual, and a weak solution 
of sulphate of ammonia is also a wonderful stimu¬ 
lant. When the blooms expand, keep the plants 
cool and shady, so as preserve the flowers as long 
as possible. Almost the same remarks apply to 
Fuchsias, which should now be growing freely; 
rich soil and abundance of nourishment is the 
golden rule for these, but they need a con¬ 
siderably more close, moist, and shady atmo¬ 
sphere than any of the 1’elargoninm family. 
Azaleas and Camellias should now be forming a 
strong healthy growth in a similar atmosphere, 
Ac., to that indicated for Fuchsias. B. C. R. 

ANTS IN GREENHOUSES. 

9ulil.—Where ants are troublesome indoors, 
some method of destruction must be resorted to, 
and of all the remedies given, perhaps the arseni¬ 
cal solution is best, but it is the most dangerous. 
Where fruit such as Reaches or wall Rears are 
grown ants will at times inflict damage, and 
therefore they should be kept away; but this 
is a comparatively easy matter, as the placing of 
an obnoxious substance along the base of the 
walls and around the stems of the trees will 
deter them. Owing to the form of the feet in 
the ant, it cannot pass over a belt of loose, dusty 
chalk or lime, and a little line of fine air-slaked 
lime, an inch high, will keep back a whole colony, 
so long as it is dry, dusty, and of a conical form. 
A thick chalk line drawn round a smooth tree, or 
across an upright board or post, will render it 
impassable. Air-slaked lime plentifully dusted 
over and around the hills and other places in¬ 
fested will cause the ants to vacate them in a 
short time. It should be placed about in warm, 
dry weather. Before giving the recipe for the 
arsenical solution, it is to be particularly noted 
that there is great danger attending it, as a poison 
most fatal to animal life. The way to prepare 
it for ants is as follows : One ounce of ordinary 
arsenic is placed in an old iron pot with a quart 
of water, and then boiled until reduced to a pint 
or half a pint of liquid, to which is added half 
pound of coarse sugar. This mixture can either 
be dropped about the runs and around the nests, 
or placed in sauceiH in the ants’ haunts. “ We 
have cleared many houses like this," writes the 
author of a book entitled “ Garden pests and 
their eradication,” but it is highly dangerous. 

Ferrocyanide of potassium, like arsenic, 
is a very dangerous preparation, and ajeo 


very good for the purpose. Take of ferre- 
cyanide of potassium 1 drachm, raspings of 
Quassia 1 drachm, and enough sugar to make t 
syrup. Use in the same way as the arsenical 
solution. If one part of calomel bccareiuile 
incorporated with ten parts of finely powdmil 
loaf sugar and placed in little heaps near it* 
nests and rums, the ants will eat it ami die. 
When they first, get strongly about in spring 
is the best time to apply these agents for iheir 
destruction. If a piece of camphor about ikt 
size of a filbert be placed in a couple of quart* ol 
hot water, and when cool enough applied to p- 
or other plants infested with ants, the insects 
will be destroyed without injury to the plain 
Four ounces of Quassia chips boiled in a gall™ of 
water for about ten minutes, and -1 ounces of stop 
added to the liquor as it cools, if sprinkled mu 
the nests every lew days, is fairly effectual: bit 
like all other remedies, mnst be persisted in lx 
some time. Fiat pans or saucers nearly lilki 
with thin honey or sweet oil attracts ants, asJ 
holds them fast or drowns them. There are 
dozens of other specifics, but the preceding tare 
generally been found to answer. Water mar be 
used, turning over and flooding all accessible 
nests as often as possible. Ants are very had 
to effectually clear out of a place, and therefore 
it is very desirable in all attempts to be ride! 
them to persist in the remedies applied. Whs 
found away from the roots or steins of plan, 
the best and surest remedy of all is to ton 
them out or scald them in with boiling water ! 

Celeh et Al’DAI 


FRUIT. 

SUMMER PRUNING FRUIT TREES. 
This is a good time to prune wall trees of m 
kind t hat have been neglected. I never jets' 
any ill effects arise from pruning when the we 5 
were in active growth, as cuts made thei la | 
rapidly ; and stone fruits may be thinned cut 
any extent without fear of bringing on gunt— 
and other evils that follow a free use of 4 
knife in winter or spring. In fact, in thec*e 
of Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Cherries, fl» 
Ac., on open walls or under glass, I liketovi 
most of the cutting required for the yearMwa 
the middle of May and the middle of Jut-» 
then one can thin out the crop of fruit ad 
exhausted or fruitless wood at the saw I® 
thereby diverting the whole energies oftbtue 
to maturing the crop, or ripening the can* 
year's wood, as upon that depends greatly 11* 
success or failure of the next year's crop. 

A tricots, owing to their earliness, should * 
taken in hand first; as they bear well on 
spur system, it is best to leave a fair proper® 
of spurs on the tree, but not in the way onctw 
often finds them, viz., sticking out like here?» 
foot or more away from the wall, from whichu* 
fruit in that case can receive but little ben* 
The finest fruit is either borne on the preceffi'f 
year's growth, or the spurs that have beta top 
in quite close to the wall. On examining u» 
but slightly pruned, I find that most of the bug 
spurs have one or more growing buds at the 1**. 
though weak through being overshadowed : 
leaves and shoots at the tipB of the spurs 1 
if these old spurs are cut back to these woh; 
buds, they will quickly strengthen, and prote'/ 
be fruitful next year, after which they nm-'l-i 
kept close in by timely pinching early in suin'-' 
The fruit, if evenly distributed over the tw. 
should be 6 inches apart; the green fruits UK 
off before the stones are hard make excel® 1 
tart s. Look cut sharply for the caterpillar or 
grub that rolls itself up in the leaves; hand-F 1 
and wash the trees frequently. One of the great 
drawbacks to Apricot culture is the liability” 
shoots, and even large branches, to die cur 
suddenly as if paralysed—a branch being'"-,’' 
and perhaps full of fruit one day, and the 
drooping and dying, and no remedy or ’’ 
correct explanation of the cause has yet b* 11 
offered. On this account the fan form of trawW 
is most in favour; as soon as a branch fails it's 
cut out and tho remaining ones are spread ourij 
fill up the gap. The spurs of a well-manigt 
Apricot ought, never to project more than 2 mm -j 
from the wall; close training is the best »' 
guard against frost, and certainly produces ■* 
finest fruit. In short, show no mercy to 

spurs, and rest not untilthclastone is shorten" 

-Cherries of most of the dessert kinds, suflj 
as May Duke, Black-Circassinn, Ac., grown 




June 9 , 1883.]1 


GARDENING ILLUSTRA1ED 


161 


sonny aspects, are amongst the earliest of dessert 
wall fruits, and in some places are highly prized, 
bot unless great care as regards pruning is exer¬ 
cised, they are liable to produce long horny spurs, 
on which, from want of a supply of young wood, 
they bear—in the case of old trees at least—most 
of their crop. It is somewhat difficult to get such 
trees into good condition. But as finer fruit is 
borne on young wood, no pains should he spared 
to secure every young pliable shoot, and to re¬ 
move either partially or wholly a corresponding 
number of old hard spurs. Prune off at once all 
fruitless spurs, and as soon as the crop is 
gathered go over the trees again. Not the least 
amongst the advantages of having the fruit and 
foliage close to the wall is the fact that when 
aphides or other insect pests attack the trees, 
the engine can be made to act on them much 
more effectually than when spurs stand out in a 
semi-wild state. Morello Cherries bear their 
crop mostly on wood of the preceding year, and 
any that is fruitless may now be cut ont to make 
room for young growths coming on from the 
base. We use tough Birch twigs for fastening 
the shoots to the wall, slipping the ends in behind 
two stout branches. The Morello suffers much 
more than any other Cherry from overcrowding: 
therefore thin out the branches well now; the 
produce will be large and fleshy, and tho trees 
will require but little pruning next winter. 


which fruits will swell up and which not, the use¬ 
less wood can be cut away entirely, and the points 
of shoots that are bearing fruit stopped unless re¬ 
quired to extend as leaders, for in the open air it 
is only the crop that is formed at the tips of the 
preceding year's growth that, is of any use, at 
least as regards ripening. The leaves of the Fig 
being large, it follows that the wood must be kept 
proportionately thin, ns it takes all the sun-beat 
we can get in ordinary summers to ripen the 
fruit. Therefore all weakly shoots should bo 
removed as early in J une as possible. Tie the 
bearing shoots in lightly to the main branches 
so that the fruit may get the benefit of sun-heat. 

Gooseberries and Currants when grown 
on walls must have the fore-right shoots pinched 
at midsummer, for if left on full length, all the 
under leaves drop off, and the fruit does not keep 
so well as when shortened in early in the season. 
The mulching of the roots of all kinds of 
wall trees should receive immediate attention, 
after which a good soaking of water and liquid 
manure will help the crop to swell, and, above all 
things, promote clean, healthy growth in the case 
of young wood that is destined to catry future 
crops. Keep the foliage clean and healthy, and 
so disposed by pruning and training that every 
leaf gets the full benefit of all the sunlight that 
our climate affords. G. 


Peaches and Nectarines are by many 
considered to bo hopeless fruits on open walls, 
but there can be no question as to the possibility 
of growing good crops where the requisite time 
-and labour can be bestowed on them at this 
usually busy season of the year, and no fruit 
trees that are cultivated are more benefited by 
Judicious summer pruning than these are. 

I 'resuming that the garden engine has been 
vigorously applied and disbudding attended to, 
both fruits and shoots will now be ready for 
tioal thinning. Proceed by removing with a 
sliarp knife all fruitless or weakly wood, cutting 
hack to a young shoot of the current year's 
growth, that will be trained to the wall as the 
,-eason advances. Be always sure to keep the 
lower parts of the tree well filled with young 
wood, the tendency of which is to rush to the 
top of the wall. An equal balance of leaf-growth 

a great point to aim at in fruit tree culture. 
Keep the engine well plied to encourage growth, 
which should not be fastened too tightly to the 
wall for some timo to come. Mulch the roots 
"nil partially decayed manure, and water 
liberally when the fruit is swelling. 

Plums of various sorts grown on walls are 
about the easiest of all fruit trees to cultivate. 
Not being so tender as the preceding, they escape 
many of the ills from which they suffer, but the 
•ame remarks apply, as to cutting in the spurs 
.mil training the young wood, as in the case of 
Teaches and Nectarines. They bear both on 
*jiare and on the preceding year's wood, and the 
•purs should Dever be allowed to extend more 
ihan from 2 inches to 3 inches from the walls. 
The Early Orleans, Goliath, Kirke's, Jefferson's, 
,,rwn Gage, and Coe's Golden Drop are well 
w °rth a place on walls as dessert fruit. 

I'KAUs are frequently unfruitful on walls, w hile 
on espaliers they bear excellent crops ; yet we 
set oar losses down to spring frosts. My im¬ 
pression is that the wood is left much too thick 
‘U'l that the buds do not get properly ripened. 

II the old spurs are left year after year untliin- 
ned, they present a solid mass of foliage that 
lve«’ps the sun’s rays from the wall; consequently 
l h<- more open espalier, or even standard, gets its 
bu'is better matured than those on a wail. Try, 
in the case of a few trees, cutting out half the 
•purs on which there is no fruit. 1 hey will break 
•'pun at the base, and next year cut out the other 
t ilf. Plenty of flower-buds will soon be formed. 
No fruit tree occupies so much space to no 
purpose as the Pear ; a few stray fruits on the 
l<oints of the shoots, where the wood is free from 
"M, hard, knotty spurs, may sometimes be seen, 
and that is all. Now in the time to let daylight 
and the fructifying rays of the sun in amongst 
yiem. With a sharp, strong knife and a small 
fine-toothed saw thin out all old fruitless spray, 
treat the trees liberally as to mulching and 
*auring, for it is poverty rather than over- 
nchness of soil whioh renders them sterile. Try 

|u plan at least three years and carefully nolo 
fl* result. 

Fms on open walls are 
•nmmer prating. r ,Now* w 



9704. — Wall8 for fruit trees —It is very 
certain that walls of concrete, or indeed of any 
other material but good red bricks, are not 
favourable for the training of i'each, Nectarine, 
and Apricot trees, though useful enough for 
Plums, Pears, and other fruits. Concrete is too 
hard and impervious both to heat and moisture, 
and a wall that is eternally dry, whilst eminently 
pleasant for insect pests, docs not retain and im¬ 
part heat in the same way that one made of 
porous bricks does. It is absolutely essential, 
also, that any concrete wall should be faced off 
quite smoothly with cement, or otherwise every 
little cavity would but become a nest hole for the 
insect pests that always infest walls and fruit 
trees more or less. Then a concrete wall compels 
that it shall be wired, as it is not possible to nail to 
ho hard a material, and it is fouod as a rule, though 
there may be exceptions, that nailed trees thrive 
and ripen their wood far bet ter than do t reest rained 
to wires. In the latter case it is necessary to leave 
a space or cavity between the trees and the face 
of the wall, and thus the heat absorbed by the 
wall in the day is materially cooled in the pro¬ 
cess of being imparted to the trees, and the trees 
suffer. The best examples of Peach and Nec¬ 
tarine culture we have seen in the open for a 
long time arc found on walls of red brick, and 
were nailed. If a wall of concrete is an abso¬ 
lute necessity—better than wiring, for which 
provision must be made in the process of build¬ 
ing—it. is better to press in, whilst the concrete 
is yet soft, iron pegs of about 2 inches in length, 
having eyelet holes. These pressed close in, 
bring the shoots quite close to the wall, and the 
tying is easy ; still further, the shoots need not 
all be tied just where the wire runs, as the eye¬ 
lets are fixed about in all directions, and the 
wood can bo tied just where desired.—A. D. 

1)730.— Treatment of cold vinery.— My 
experience is that syringing Vines at any time is 
quite unnecessary, provided that after the buds 
begin to swell the tloor is always kept moist, 
and when the weather is warm a good supply of 
water thrown on the floor in the morning, and 
again just before the doors and ventilutors are 
closed in the evening. Care must always be taken 
not to sprinkle water on a hot fine, or the steam 
produced might be fatal to the foliage. Under 
this treatment I never find it necessary to remove 
the bark in winter, or to apply the dressing 
generally used.—B. 

9797.- Strawberries not fruiting —It 

sometimes happens that from some cause or other, 
quite inexplicable, Strawberry plants will go 
quite blind, that is become fruitless, and never 
again be productive. When plants prove so 
barren, it is well to destroy them at once, and 
secure runners from a certain blooming stock. 
Blindness may in some cases arise from bad cul¬ 
ture, but it is not always so, and no clear and 
Hutlleient reason has been given for it.— L). 

97!»0 Grubs In Strawberries.—Where ilrosulng* 
>f noot have failcl lo tU-nlroy Rnihp, then* *«*cru* to be no 
•ther count* but to look for them ami liamlpick the pests. 
(Jruhs are not so easily destroyed as slugs ami worms 
^^u-e, their tough skin* proving ■<• Impervious to pungent 
pliubstunccs like soot.— I). 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


THE GREAT OX-EYE DAISY. 

(P7BETHBUM L'LIGINOSUM.) 

Tnifl is one of the showiest tall-growing, autumn¬ 
flowering plants we possess. It grows from 
4 feet to 6 feet high, and forms a conspicuous 
object in the back rows of borders or on the 
margins of shrubberies, or in the form of 
isolated specimens on lawns, Ac. As it delights 
in moist soil, it may be planted with excellent 
effect on the edges of lakes, pools, Ac., where it 
attains a much greater height than it would do 



Tall Ox-eye Daisy (Pyrethrum uliginosum ) 


in a dry border. If no other position can be 
assigned to it tlian an ordinary border, it re¬ 
quires to be taken up every three years, and the 
soil thoroughly trenched and enriched by means 
of manure, as it is a gross feeder. If this be 
not done, the plants degenerate into poor, half- 
sturved specimens, and do not show the naturally 
stately habit of the species. It may be readily 
propagated by division of the roots ; every scrap 
of root will in time grow into a good plant. 


TRANSPLANTING SPRING FLOWERS. 

WHEBB spring gardening is practised in the 
same set of beds or borders in which summer 
bedding is carried on, the plants employed that 
are required for another seaf-on must cow be 
lifted and replanted, or summer bedders will 
have but a short season in which to grow and 
flower. This has been a fairly good year for 
spring flowers, as, in addition to the hardiest 
plants that can pass unscathed through any win¬ 
ter, we have had Ibis year many half-hard^ 
plants that have done good service- notably the 
Brazilian or Chilian BtftQiftflkfiiMnbrilliantly 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 











GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[June 9, 1883. 


the winter and spring as central groups for beds 
of ordinary spring flowers. Dell's dark-leaved 
Beet, too, has been most effective in conjunction 
with flowering and fine-foliaged plants, its 
foliage being quite equal to that of Coleus Ver- 
schaffelti. These Beets are best raised from 
seed every year, also Wallflowers, Honesty, Si- 
Icnes, Limnanthes Douglasi, Nemophilas, Sapo- 
narias, <fcc.; but the following must be carefully 
planted in partially shaded positions in the re¬ 
serve garden, or in spaces between bush fruits. 
Pansies and Violas of the early-flowering 
varieties should be planted in lines 1 foot apart 
until sufficient cuttings are secured for purposes 
of propagation ; then cut away the old flowering 
wood, and they will soon develop shoots from 
the base. They may then be parted, and every 
piece with a root planted 1 foot apart. They 
will make good plants by October. 

Myosotis dissitiflora is the only Forget-me- 
not we now rely on for bedding. It must be 
laid in until leisure can be found to part it, 
when each piece with roots may be dibbled in 
beds; they will make nice little stocky clumps 
for planting, but old plants with long straggling 
shoots are sure to die off should we have a severe 
winter. When laid in with flower and seed-pods 
intact, a good many seedlings will soon spring 
up between the rows, and if pricked ont as soon 
as large enough to handle, they make the best 
of plants. Seed should be sown at once for early 
flowering. This Forget-me-not has been the 
gem of the flower garden for the last, few 
weeks. Primroses and Polyanthuses of all kinds 
must be parted at once; keep them moist and 
shaded by means of branches of Laurels 
or other evergreens. We usually plant, at 
the same time, Stocks and Asters between the 
lines, as by the time the branches get withered 
up and removed, the Stocks and Asters begin to 
give shade, and they make the beds look gay in 
autumn when the Primroses are at rest. The 
yellow Hose-in-hose Polyanthus has been the 
most continuous and effective of the whole 
family this year, its golden yellow trusses com¬ 
pletely hiding the foliage, and producing suc- 
cessional trusses for weeks in succession. Stachys 
lanataand Santolinaincana,two valuable silvery- 
leaved hardy plants, have been excellent for 
lines and silver-white groundwork. If not re¬ 
quired for the summer bedding, they must be 
parted, the flower-stalks cut off, and planted in 
nursery lines a foot apart; they are readily, to 
any extent, increased by division. Aubrietias, 
Arabis, Alyssums, Daisies, Auriculas, and hosts 
of similar plants may be temporarily laid in some 
partially shaded position until a more leisure 
period allows of their being divided and re¬ 
plan Led in beds about a foot apart. Seedlings 
of many kinds will now need picking out, and 
cuttings rooting under glass must be hardened 
off by degrees, ready for finally planting in 
nursery beds. Plants of a bulbous character, 
the foliage of which has not yet died down, 
must be carefully laid in until the foliage ripens 
off naturally. Small shrubs, dwarf conifers, 
Yuccas, &c., employed for winter and spring 
effect, must be planted in beds and kept moist 
at the roots. 

Seeds may be collected and sown of Anemones, 
Primroses, Polyanthuses, Pansies, Sec .; the sooner 
they are in the ground after they are ripe the 
better. Seedlings of Wallflowers should also 
now be fit for transplanting from the seed beds 
into lines a foot apart and 9 inches asunder in 
the row ; if the points are pinched out as soon 
as they begin to grow, neat stocky little bushes 
will be the result. There are now many hardy 
plants used in bedding that may be termed all- 
the-year-round plants, and are presentable at all 
seasons, as, for instance, the various sorts of 
Sedum or Stonecrop, the Sempervivum or House- 
leek, several varieties of Saxifrage, Sec. Where 
there is a limited quantity of glass, these should 
be largely grown, as, with a plentiful supply of 
them for the groundwork, it is surprising what 
effect may be produced by skilfully contrasting 
their colours, and introducing a few half-hardy 
flne-foliaged plants to relieve the monotony of 
the flat surface. M. G. 

9790.— Double Daisies. — Deterioration 
with these usually arises from lack of good cul¬ 
ture or ground sickness. The plants should be 
lifted, pulled to pieces, and be newly planted in 
fresh soil at least once in the year. Sometimes, 
however, it is found that they get quite sick of the 
soil in which ^ey for several 


years, and then a change to another place, so 
that the old soil may produce a fresh crop for a 
time, is absolutely necessary.—A. D. 

A COTTAGE GARDEN IN SPRING. 

The most brilliant sight I have seen this season 
was a cottage garden which I passed the other 
day full of springtide life and beauty. The latter 
was found to consist wholly of Gilliflowers, as 
the cottagers call Wallflowers, all single, Pansies, 
and Tulips. The two first formed nine-tenths 
of the whole. The prodigal wealth of colour 
in the Wallflowers alone seemed to include all 
shades from blood-red to deep yellow. As for the 
Pansies, well, they were nothing to the florist, but 
were brilliant in colour—purple, almost reach¬ 
ing down to black in its density, to orange and 
yellow of all hues, and white with a speck in its 
eye only. But the amount of flower as well as 
the prodigality of colour were wonderful. The 
Pansies and Gilliflowers were wonderfully mixed 
up and blended. Some of the Pansies had even 
used the taller flowers as stepping-Btones to rise 
to their very tops and spread out horizontally 
over them, so that here and there the two flowers 
were alternated, and at some places aGilliflower 
waspincushioned into and above a bed of Pansies 
The Tulips were of the old-fashioned sorts—a 
kind of claret, a pure white, and a variegated 
yellow, not by any means of either Pottebakker 
or Van Thol types. But they were true show 
Tulips, in form perfect, cylindrical cups of 
beauty, though their colours were none of the 
purest, nor the most brilliant. Their globular 
cups crowning and resting on the glowing 
cushion of Heartsease had a most pleasing effect. 
The stems of the Tulips were so slender, and 
their flowers so large and full in proportion, 
that the whole waved up and down, or were 
swayed hither and thither by the wind. The 
picture was perfect; no, not quite, nor just yet; 
it wanted the coming Rose, and the fragrant 
Mignonette. The cottage was small and the 
tenants seemed poor, but nor prince nor peer 
could hardly have a richer feast of fragrance 
and beauty than that crowded around that 
cottage door. 

These, and many other elements of beauty, are 
within reach of every one. Independent of the 
moral and educational influences of flowers, their 
sanitary effects should not be overlooked. Every 
one familiar with the country must have noticed 
that, whether by accident or design, almost all 
cottagers grow sweet flowers. What, for example, 
could be more fragrant than Pansies and Wall¬ 
flowers ? And fragrancy is as much needed as 
an antiseptic, shall I call it, in the country as in 
the crowded town. Piggeries, house slops, Sec., 
make many a country village almost insupport¬ 
able. The best, and perhaps most powerful, of 
all antidotes to foul odours is sweet scents, and 
it is probable that Gilliflowers, uansies, Violets, 
Sweet Briers, Honeysuckles, Roses, and other 
fragrant flowers disinfect the atmosphere of 
feverish or other exhalations more perfectly, as 
well as more perpetually, than Condy’s Fluid, or 
McDougal’s or other disinfectants. D. T. 

DOUBLE PYRETHRUMS. 

If any of our commonly grown hardy perennials 
may be said to have become improved of late, 
it is the Pyrethrum, both single and double. 
The varieties of each are numerous, and an 
inferior flower is now the exception. From 
pure white, there are many ascending shades 
up to deep magenta, approaching crimson. 
Not less varied and bright in colour are the 
single flowers, and the tints are generally soft 
and pleasing. There is nothing of the rigid for¬ 
mality of the Dahlia in the build of the Pyrethrum. 
It is true that the flowers are full and symmetrical, 
but there is an outer fringe or guard petal that 
saves them from beiDg too formal. If anyone will 
examine a flower of a double Pyrethrum they 
will observe that the outer edge is made of a zone 
or ring of long flat florets, while the centre is 
filled up with a very large number of short, quilled 
florets, and the thicker these are developed, the 
more double is the bloom. The single forms 
have one or two circular rows of large flat florets, 
much larger and broader than in the case of the 
double types, with a showy and striking golden 
disc. Both types are very pretty, and both have 
their admirers. 

Varieties.—A s all nurserymen grow a col¬ 
lection of Pyrethrums. there can be no hesitation 
in giving the names of some of the best varieties. 


If anyone required a dozen really good flower* r 
the double varieties, we would advise them toot, 
tain Andromeda, rosy purple; Boule de Kop, 
white tinted with rose; Capt. Boyton, crittuoo- 
scarlet; Capt. Nares, bright crimson; Delicate, 
lilac - peach ; Duchess of Edinburgh, mauve: 
Hobart Pasha, maroon ; Lady Derby, silver 
flesh ; Jeannette, white; Michael Buckner ,top 
crimson ; I'lacida, peach ; and Sefton, purple 
These are distinct in colour, handsome, and fully 
double. Now let us take the single flowers, 
and of these select a dozen varieties as follows 
Abaris, white ; Bacchus, purplish-ros6; Calliope, 
French white; Darius, bright pink; Faust a, deep 
crimson ; Galathde, large rosy-purple; Mars, pur¬ 
ple ; Ophion, vermilion-crimson ; Roscius, blush 
Tarsius, pure white; Themis, cerise; and Veledt 
rosy-lilac. 

Culture.—T he best time of the year to 
obtain plants of Pyrethrum is from April to 
J une, because those who propagate them divid- 
them in autumn and pot them, and by spriy 
they have become well rooted. They are tier 
in good condition to plant out in the epe 
ground. The best soil is a free, rich loar 
made light and friable by digging, and furtks 
enriched by the addition of manure Th 
Pyrethrum strikes its roots freely into the soil 
and the better it can do this the more vigor- 
is the growth and finer the flowers. The !>• 
thrum is by no means a plant difficult to calt- 
vate, and it is perfectly hardy, passing unbanr 
through the severest winters if reasonably in 
at the roots. It is damp which kills the Ym 
thrum far more than hard frost. If the plant 
can be grown permanently in a bed they canb 
better cultivated; they are greatly helped » i 
some mulching in early summer, by keep:* 
the surface soil stirred in hot, dry weather, J» \ 
watering freely when necessary, and by girir, 
a good surface-dressing of manure and lear* 
in autumn, which can be forked into the soil k 
early spring, just as the plants begin to nai' 
growth. It is at this season of the year tis 
slugs and snails are hurtful to the plant' i- 
they find lurking places under the old leaves, a: 
eat the young growths if not looked carefully 
Pyrethrums are very effective in the mis 
border, and some clumps should be dotted ibec 
in association with kindred plants, bat it r 
cannot be cultivated so successfully as » ‘ 
prepared and well tended bed. 

9801.—Taking up Tulips, &c1W®* 

teur ” cannot wait until the Tulips and Anneal 
have done blooming, he had better take 
Tulips up and replant them in a shady situs*-® 
in the garden until they are ripe, wbec tfcf 
should be again taken up and stored in w 
usual manner. The Auriculas should be morM 
with a good ball of earth adhering to the root*, 
and be immediately replanted.—A. H. l'B tt . 
Carshalton. 

- When the Tulips have done bloonnrg. 

lift the roots and lay them in thickly in so® 
shady place till the leaves have quite diedaw&J- 
The bulbs may then be lifted and put intoMJ 
bags for the autumn, or left in the groued till’* 1 
time. Auriculus, also, may be lifted with 
of soil and be replanted elsewhere, esp# 18 ". 
where it is cool and shaded.—D. 

9807— Alpine Auriculas.— Tie «Fj* 
section is a wide one, and really includes au 
common border section, as well as beautifnl ? - 
kinds, which have unmealed or pure green 
age. Any evidence of meal on the lew* 
flowers would place the kind in the show (•«$'- 
Show Alpines have yellow, creamy, wd * 
centres, but the rich yellow centres are dt 
the most beautiful and striking. In the no • 
white or mealed centres would not be esw®**' 
but the southern florists are not so P^n . 
Still it is hardly a matter of taste, w** 1 . 

doubt, golden centres are by far ^ 
pleasing, and constitute one of the finest tea 
of good Alpine flowers. An unshaded or 
flower has an outer ground of one colonr-"^ :• 
dark. There may be, perhaps, shadmg ^ 
indistinct, but to make a shaded flow ^ 
colour next the centre must be^duk, an 
shade off to a much lighter or brighter nu 
good flowers should be thrum -eyed, nav ^ 

distinct centres, and be fairly flat in form 

9812.—Russian Violets.—Market 
these by cutting out Email pieces from the ou 
the old clumps or plants, and dibbling |t 0 Bf e, 

Boil at 18 inches apart. This should be :° n |«nti b» rf 
and indeed it is usually done ss soon a 8 tIie * 
doue blooming,--A. £>. 



June 9 , 1883 .] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


163 



FLOWERS OF JUNE. 

Without doubt, many of the flowers that in 
ordinary seasons bloom in May will this year be 
found at their best in the leafy month of June. 
And here let us interject that this year June is 
a "lorious leafy month, for the foliage on all 
deciduous trees is wonderful in quantity and 
beauty, and had we not a flower to bedeck 
gardens and hedge-rows, yet w’ould the season be 
delightful and all nature beautiful, if for its 
lovely tints of greenery only. But June is full 
of flowers, as of leafage, for though the fruit trees 
have dropped their floral tints, and the noble 
Horse Chestnut its grand spikes of bloom, yet we 
ha/e the Laburnum in luxuriant beauty, and on 
walls and houses that grand climber the Wistaria 
drops down as a floral fountain its long and 
lovely spikes of colour. But of all hardy trees, 
or rather shrubs, that are at their best in June, 
the pride of place is for 
the gorgeous Rhododen¬ 
dron, that grand ever¬ 
green shrub that in its 
>eason excels all others 
for the massive grandeur 
cf its huge trusses, for 
their glorious hues of rich 
and striking colours, and, 
not least, for the facility 
with which it adapts it- 
-clf to soils and posi- 
ions in gardens and 
oarks all over the king- 
Inm. Then there is the 
lardy Azalea, fit com- 
>.inion plant to the Rho- 
lodendron, the charming 
Kalniia,some of the Ber- 
t*oris, and many other 
shrubs that in their sea¬ 
son help to make gardens 
•right and beautiful. Bub 

I une is, with many gar- 
lenera of all kinds, so 
unch given to decora- 
ion with all that mass 
of flowering plants used 
inder the designation of 
jedding stuff, that too 
nany think June to be 
at her the month of the 
carlefc Geranium and 

„ he yellow Calceolaria, or 
->f the blue Lobelia, 
han a month of hardy 
lowers. Our artist seems 
x> have been infected 
•vith the bedding mania, 

[or he has introduced 
into his illustration of 
Jane flowers, some “re¬ 
ticule bags,” as the 
country folks like to call 
the flowers of Calceola¬ 
rias. But still, he may 
have been thinking of 
the beautiful kinds that 
are ^rown in our green¬ 
houses, and these are so 
gorgeous in colour and 
>o rich and beautiful in 
their markings. We have, 
too, some Nasturtiums 
now beginning to flower, 
especially those of the 
dwarf or bedding kinds, 
lor they bloom early and 
long, and make luxuri¬ 
ant masses of colour and 

leafage. Raised from seed sown in April, they 
give, at a trifling cost, brilliant hues and big 
masses, whilst the trailing kinds run over hedge- 
row.?, stunted trees, bald fences, and other un¬ 
sightly objects, and for a few months not merely 
hifle them from view, but also make them beau¬ 
tiful. There peeps out from the top of our pic¬ 
torial bouquet a Columbine, as common folks like 
u term it, though we must write of it as a 
i-rden Aquilegia. It is, however, but a lumpy 
ri-juble kind, and will not for a moment bear 
* mpvuon with the single long-spurred yellow 
ir y$antba, the lovely blue and white coerulea, 
:c -‘ bright coloured californica, and many others 
! f the family, all amongst our hardiest and most 
^'easing of June flowers ; and then darkling, as 
* timea its too 0 ft en sombre hues, looms out 

II >■ noble Fleur-de-lis of oory&allic neighboi 
H-* Iris of our own count: 


gardens are not the huge flag-like leaves, and the 
purplish-hued flowers of the Iris to be seen ? Aye, 
and in more modern gardens glorious flowers of 
the susiana section will make the month of J une 
indeed one of beauty. In our wilds, in stream 
and lake, the large yellow blooms of Marsh Iris 
will be seen, whilst about its base is wreathed 
masses of the blue Forget-me-not, the Myosotis 
palustris of the country. But some of the noble 
Liliums are in bloom in June, especially the 
charming and graceful Martagons, the pure 
white candidum, the gorgeous auratum, and 
many others that are as beautiful as they are 
hardy; and, too, there are many of the earlier 
blooming Gladioli that flower so finely before 
midsummer. How delightful it is to find in some 
gardens big clumps of these left from year to 
year, and throwing up spikes of flowers of ex¬ 
ceeding beauty. Specially beautiful as a June 


japonica aurea and pal mat a—the latter having 
clusters of such a charming red hue—are effec¬ 
tive both in pots and borders. Pinks, white and 
red, are abundant June flowers, and, with the 
blue Corn-bottle, are excellent for various cut 
uses. The Thrifts also are good, and che deep 
blue Delphiniums are truly beautiful and hardy. 
It is not possible to enumerate a tithe of the 
flowers that make gardens and hedgerows beau¬ 
tiful in the month of June. D. 


r.Gaiuc neighbouvs, 


Flowers of June. Nasturtiums, Irises, Calceolarias, Columbines, Ac. 


flower is the twin-flowered Everlasting Pea. 
This is a lovely garden flower, and when it is 
grown in the form of a hedge, as we have seen 
it in Windsor and some other places, it most 
truly deserves a high tribute of praise to its 
merits ; this is the Lathyrus grandiflorus, and its 
flowers are of a rich crimson hue. But towards 
the middle of the month we get Roses bloom¬ 
ing freely, although the reign of the queen of 
flowers scarcely reaches its climax till after the 
next month has come in. We have still Pansies 
in variety and beauty, and Violas in masses pre¬ 
sent colouring matter that, in the decoration of 
the flower garden, are most valuable. The fine 
new double and single Pyrethrums are popular, 
but not nearly so much grown as they deserve : 
whilst the double kinds almost rival the Aster, 
the single forms are, because of their rich colours. 


^>far more beautiful than Marguerites, Spiraeas 


House slops <fco.— A correspondent in 
Gardening of April 28, 1883, signing him¬ 
self “A,” says that house slops are far less 
valuable than is commonly held to be the case, 
and that in moist seasons their free use to plants 
of any kind may result in more harm than good. 
To me it is surprising that anyone should be 
found to disparage the use of house slops (of 
course I mean those com¬ 
posed of chamber lye and 
soapsuds from the wash¬ 
house.) Most of us know 
that the alkalies in the 
soap are taken up by 
bulbous rooted plants, 
also Celery and the like, 
while the fat of which 
soap is mainly composed 
will nourish almost any 
kind of plant, and the 
ammonia that is con¬ 
tained in chamber lye is 
admitted to be a stimu¬ 
lant for almost any 
kitchen garden crop. 
Now it matters little 
whether these liquids are 
thrown on to the land 
in wet or dry weather, 
they are equally bene¬ 
ficial ; in fact the best 
time to use them on grass 
lawns is during wet 
weather, as then the 
slops arc carried down to 
the grass roots by the 
rain. But there is one 
tiling that must be borne 
in mind, that is—never 
give a surfeit of liquid 
manure where the drain¬ 
age is bad, or the land 
will become sour and cold 
and the plants stunted 
and poor. Nor should 
Beans, Peas or Potatoes 
be watered with it. Plants 
are in a great measure 
like animals, they can¬ 
not take in an unlimited 
quantity of strong food, 
but prefer smaller quan¬ 
tities and oftener. I 
should recommend a sup¬ 
ply of weak liquid ma¬ 
nure to be given twice a 
week to most vegetables 
in the garden, and once 
a week to lawns. If it 
is thought desirable to 
have the liquid stronger 
for gross feeding plants 
like Cabbages or Cauli¬ 
flowers, let there be 
thrown into each hogs¬ 
head of slops one bushel 
of fresh horse droppings, 
but in every case when 
the hogshead is half full of the three ingredients 
named—urine, soap-suds, and horse droppings— 
it should be filled to the top with rain water, and 
if a little soot be added it will be all the better 
for it. This liquid manure should be poured on 
the ground, care being taken not to cover the 
plants with it. The above practice will not only 
improve this season’s crops, but it will also 
enrich the land, and its good effects will be felt 
in after seasons. Lawns need no other manures. 
—G. C., Eccles. 

To destroy worms on lawns— Some 

twenty years ago I converted a piece of land 
which had long been used as a vegetable garden 
into a bowling green. The turf for it was taken 
from an adjoining pasture field. After the sods 
were laid, well levelled with a bard-wood beater, 
and well rolled, I gave it a top dressiog of nitrate 
of soda. The cjuantity pf land was about 20 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Juke 9 , 1883 . 


perches, and I used one hundredweight of nitrate, 
which for that area was a heavy dressing. A 
fews days after it was spread there came a 
copious rain, which melted the nitrate and washed 
it into the soil. Next morning I found the whole 
lawn covered with dead worms, and I never saw 
a worm in the lawn afterwards ; the cost of the 
nitrate was 14s. 6d. Now whether the previous 
beating and rolling had anything to do with the 
destruction of the worms, or the heavy dressing 
of nitrate was the sole cause, 1 cannot say. The 
ordinary dressing of nitrate—one hundredweight 
or two hundredweights to the acre—has no effect 
on worms that lam aware of; but if the plan 
be tried it will probably be found satisfactory. 
-J. A. _ 

VEGETABLES. 

THE ASPARAGUS COMPETITION. 

The following are the prizes offered for the com¬ 
petition of the present year, which will take 
place in the Royal Horticultural Gardens at 
South Kensington on June 12. 

Prizes for Gardeners in private places. 

Amateurs, and others not growers 

FOR MARKET. 

For the best, bundle of Asparagus grown by the 
exhibitor: 1st prize, £’4 ; 2nd, £2 10s.; 3rd, 
£1 10s.; 4th, j£l. The bundle of Asparagus is 
to consist of eighty heads. Prizes will not be 
given where, in the opinion of the judge, there is 
no merit. The Asparagus must be free of earth, 
and the bundles will be opened by the judges 
in all cases where they think it well to do so. 
No imperfect or “double” heads will count. 

For the best Jiffy heads grown by the exhibitor , 
£2 10s.; second prize, £i 10s.; third prize, 15s. 

Prizes foe Market Growers (English 
Growers only). — For the market grower who 
shall exhibit the three best bundles , grown by the 
exhibitor , each containing one hundred heads , 
£o 5s.; 2nd prize. £3 3s. ; 3rd prize, £2 2s. 
These prizes are offered by M. Godefroy-Lebeuf, 
of Argenteuil. 

The season generally is a fortnight later than 
usual as regards this vegetable. 

SOWING SPRING CABBAGE. 

The season for sowing seed of the main crop of 
spring Cabbages will now soon arrive, and the 
first consideration is to select an open piece of 
ground that has not been cropped with any of the 
Cabbage tribe for some time; having dug it up 
deeply, give it a thorough good soaking of water, 
and as soon as it gets a little dry on the top 
tread it down firm and rake the surface fine; 
then draw drills about 9 inches apart and sow 
the seed thinly and evenly, covering it over with 
a mixture of wood ashes, burnt earth, and finely 
sifted old potting soil. Cover the hole with an 
old fish net to keep the birds off, and lay green 
branches on for shade and to check evaporation. 
The seed, if kept moist, will come up quickly, 
and on no account must the young plants be 
neglected afterwards. A supply of dry wood 
ashes is an excellent kelp to the cultivator of 
Cabbages. They may be dusted over the foliage, 
and thus used will act as a deterrent to in¬ 
sect pests, and as a manure when washed 
down to the roots. The plants should be 
planted out where they are to remain as soon 
as they are large enough to handle, or be 
pricked out in beds before they get what 
is termed drawn. For early sorts that 
are cue in quite a small state before they form 
much heart, 1£ feet apart each way is sufficient, 
and for main crops 2 feet and 24 feet, according 
to the size of the variety. We find medium sized 
sorts the best; Wheeler’s Imperial, Heartwell 
Early Marrow, and Early London are good in 
every way. Cabbages are only thought really 
good when tender and succulent and very mild 
in flavour, and to ensure these qualities the soil 
must be in good condition; well decomposed 
farmyard manure may be freely used, but rank 
unfermented manures are liable to give the pro¬ 
duce an unpleasant taste, and liquid manures 
must also be cautiously used for the same reason. 
I have seen splendid Cabbages to look at grown 
by means of copious supplies of house sewage, 
soap-suds, &c.; but when boiled they betrayed 
what they had been fed upon. Therefore, when 
using liquid manure, it must be in a very' highly 
diluted form and clean water should be applied 
at alternate applications. It ie difficult to state 
the exact da^e on ^\ji^s should take 


place to suit all localities, but from the middle 
to the end of July will be found the best date 
for a wide range of country. J. 


Value of deep cultivation. — This is 
well shown by our Onion crop that follows 
Celery. Two rows are just over where the Celery 
trench was made last summer, and three rows 
are over the intervening space left comparatively 
hard and unbroken, and although after the 
Celery crop was cleared all the land was dug 
over, the two rows over the trench are far ahead 
of the three on the intervening spaces, and I 
have noted for several years that the rows thus 
placed maintain their superiority to the end of 
the season. Therefore, if full value for labour 
and manure is not obtained in the case of the 
first crop, do not think all is lost, for it will be 
found that deep and thorough cultivation and 
manuring, even only once performed, will show 
its effect for years.—J. 

Peas without sticks.— The races of very 
dwarf Peas suitable for growing in small gardens 
where space is limited have of late years been 
greatly improved. I find that sorts which grow 
about 1 foot high yield excellent crops if sown 
in rows on borders about 1 foot apart. They then 
cover all the ground and support one another. 
We have now in excellent condition quite a mass 
of pods on Maclean's Little Gem, which, 
although not sown until February, was but a few 
days behind such tall sorts as Ringleader, Sun¬ 
rise, .vc., sown in December. For the future I 
shall rely on these very dwarf sorts for our first 
crop out-of-doors. They take up but little space, 
and the saving of Pea sticks is an important 
matter in many cases.—G. M. 

Saving Cabbage seed.— Cabbage seed is 
by no means easy to secure pure where it is saved 
in a small way; not only does the Cabbage 
cross most freely with Broccoli, but also with 
all kinds of the Brassica family, and if there 
be any diverse sorts growing not merely in 
the same garden, but in aDy other near, the 
chance of securing true stocks is very doubtful. 
A few plants saved to bloom, and purposely 
blocked in together, maybe largely protected with 
fine netting. If a garden is isolated from all 
others, and no members of the Brassica family 
are permitted to bloom in that garden then the 
results may be all that can be desired. Where 
seeds of this kind are grown in a large way, and 
the plots of perhaps several acres are either 
isolated or have growing between them equally 
large plots of Turnips of some kind, the danger of 
intercrossing is minimised. Bees, the chief agents 
in fertilisation, will find so much food in a large 
field in flower, that they will not be tempted to 
go to another kind to get the needful load of 
food. Autumn-planted Cabbages for spring cut¬ 
ting, if of a true kind, will usually run through 
the summer and following winter, producing side 
sprouts and small heads, and then go to seed in 
the succeeding spring. Cabbages planted now, 
on the other hand, will as a rule run off to bloom 
next spring. Of course the heads are all cut in 
the interim, as shoots burst forth freely enough 
from the leaf joints in the spring, and these 
produce ample bloom. It is not an uncommon 
practice for autumn planted Cabbages to bolt off 
to flower in the spring. Seed saved from these 
would only perpetuate rubbish, and should be 
pulled as fast as they are observed.—D. 

Late Potatoes. —In autumn and throughout 
the winter many kinds of Potatoes are of the 
finest quality when cooked and placed upon the 
table, but good eating ones are not so plentiful in 
April and May. During those two months the new 
ones are seldom ready in sufficient quantity to 
dispense with the old tubers altogether, and in 
many instances these are the only sort available; 
so that the question, Which is the best late 
Potato for use in April and May ? becomes a 
matter of no small importance during the months 
inquestion. Thisyear, and in former yearsas well, 
we have had good opportunities of trying diffe¬ 
rent late Potatoes, and Paterson’s Queen has been 
found to be the best, as it retains its agreeable 
flavour to the end, is slow in sprouting, and 
always good in colour. Next to this comes Vic¬ 
toria, and then Magnum Bonum ; the Scotch 
Champion at this time being quite out of the list, 
as the majority of the tubers when cooked and 
cut up are purple and black at the core, conse¬ 
quently deficient in flavour and of no value as 
iood. Some say they cannot relish old Pota¬ 


toes after having their first dish of new one 
but I think there would be little occasion to 
say this were Paterson's Queen in generaluse- 
J. M. 

Early Paris market Turnip— I find 

this to be a most useful early Taraip. Sown 
the first, week in February, it was fit for use in 
the middle of May in a sheltered garden, and, 
unlike some kinds which I have grown for 
early crops, it showed no disposition to run to 
seed. We sow in rows 1£ feet apart, and 
protect with old fish nets from birds, which arc 
very partial to the seed just as it is sprouting, 
while under the shelter of a net the yourgerrp 
makes rapid progress. We water freely if the 
weather is dry, and dust with wood ashes and 
soot while the leaves are damp. As soon as the 
young plants get into rough leaf they are 
thinned out to 6 inches apart, the hoe bein^ 
kept going among them. Fresh soil is my 
essential for Turnips, and it should also be kep: 
in a very friable condition.—G. L. 

ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 

(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

9808.— Primula seed—In saving seedti 
Chinese Primroses, very much depends npon tin 
time the plants are in bloom as to whether it k 
needful or not to fertilise the flowers artifidaL; 

If the season be early, then to induce seeding \ 
tiny brush must be freely employed to set tis 
pollen, and the temperature must not be !(* • 
than 50°, and the atmosphere fairly dry. U& 
on, that is towards the end of March and dorr: 
April, bees will often help to distribute it 
pollen, and thus produce fertilisation. So sk 
may it be promoted in the case of flowers,^ 
those are most numerous where the pistil is ate* 
the anthers, by drawing the flower up geciy 
after it has been open a few days, so that tbs 
pollen in the anther shall touch ihe pistil, in 
rule, all late flowers, and where insects z 
abundant and the air is drier, set better tis 
they do in the winter.—H. D. 

9786.— Peat Mobs. —In answer to “C.f J 
I have not had any hotbeds made of Peat . 
but a friend of mine has tried it, and he info® 
me that it is just as good as stable litter. Han 
not found that Peat Moss forms a cold bedfer* 
horse after it has lain some time. The locate 
referred to is 20 feet square, and the Peat Ht* 
was laid down about 3 inches thick, and it te , 
now been in use for over two months, and ti 
that has been added was a small quantity dnrinf 
the time a carriage horse occupied the premia. 

I have just been in the stable this moroin; 
and really the bedding is very dry and com¬ 
fortable, although, of course, it is much date 
in colour, and is now going to be taken ont 
laid on the manure heap. I have not noti» 
that it stained grey horses.—P. C. 

9804.— Soot water.— A very fair properties 
is to mix one pint of soot to a gallon of water. Th? 
soot should be placed in a tub and the water 
poured gently into the soot and stirred ^ 
poured in. By the time the tub is sufficient'. 1 
filled, the water and soot are well incorporator 
except that a scum will rise to the surface, te 
that may be removed before the water is mri- 
The water should be used clear, and it is well to 
give the soot a good stir when fresh water» 
added to make up for what has been taken cct: 
time is then given for it to settle. Soot vW 
may be given to Roses in pots about twit** 
week as an ordinary watering. These reman* 
apply also to queries 9813 and 9815.—A. 

9781 — Cesspool -water.— The water ft® 
a cesspool may be employed with 
amidst fruit trees of all kinds, shrubs, etfj* 
vegetables, and indeed with nearly all garw® 
products except flowers, during dry weather. Il¬ 
liquid will be found to have only a very 'no®* 
rate nutritive nature, but is most valnal le i 3 
supplying moisture when needed. There is 
special reason to suppose that cesspool water 
breeds insect pests, but in any case a mixture? 
soot with it would not only render the hqnid 
more valuable, but materially assist to neutra¬ 
lise injurious properties.—D. 

9083.— Deutzias.— If a Deutziaisins poo* 1 -; 
sized pot and has plenty of root room it will -d 
well to leave it in the pot, and to plMJ ! j 
out-of-doors in- a position a little shaded 1 . 
midday. If it Tic in a small -pot; then it is 

JRBANA-CHAMPAIGN I 


June 9, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


165 


to plant oat in a warm place, where it will make 
strong growth and roots, and will ripen its wood 
before the winter. The long new shoots may be 
pinched in the autumn to make the plants 
bushy, and help the wood to ripen.—D. 

9800.— Pimeleafl. —The Pimelea may be pro¬ 
pagated by means of cuttiDgs when the new 
growth is nearly ripe, but they are difficult to 
increase. They should be shifted early in the 
spring if they require it, and when the flower 
fades, place them out-of-doors to mature the 
young growth. The best compost in which to 
grow them is three parts peat, one of loam, and 
one of sand.— A. H. Davis, Carshalton. 

9793.— Slops lor plants— If the contents 
of the slop-pail included the contents of the 
washing basins from bedrooms, the liquid would 
not be very stroDg, and indeed might be very 
well employed in that state. It should, how¬ 
ever, be exposed to the action of the atmosphere 
for a few days before using to neutralise the 
salts found abundantly in urine.— D. 

9309.-Calceolarias.—Old plants of herbaceous Cal- 
-leolarias are not worth troubling about. Far better to 
■throw them away and raise others by sowing seed in July 
or August. To preserve them would be a matter of ex¬ 
ceeding difficulty, as the plants are very impatient of 
heat, and subject to aphides, which infest them sadly in 
hot weather.—A. D. 

9748.—Propagating Myrtles.—“ Heaton” should 
put in cuttings at onceTn sandy loam, under a bell glass. 
Give air when rooted, which will be known by their com¬ 
mencing to grow. Afterwards pot off singly in two parts 
loam and one part leaf-mould, and some sand to keep the 
§oil open.—J. T. F. 

9785.—Plants for sloping bank.—“ J. H. B.” will 
find Periwinkle answer his requirements. Plant 3 feet 
from the foot of the bed. The roots will extend In the 
sloping direction.—H. L. 


Watering conservatories. -Which is the best 
time to water plants in a conservatory during summer— 
morning or evening.—A. W. {Evening ] 

Gardenia culture.— A. E. .S'.—If you have no green¬ 
house, do not attempt to grow Gardenias, for you will 
assuredly fail. 

Pyramidal Azaleas.—We should advise you to let 
the fUtbacked plants alone, they are much more hand¬ 
some than stiff pyramids. 

Hardy annuals .—Constant Reader .—You had better 
apply to a few of the large seedsmen for their catalogues. 

Geo. Robinson.— The leaves are covered with a kind of 
fungus. Soap and water will remove it. Water the 
plants in the afternoon during summer and in the morn¬ 
ing during winter.- J. H. F .—Try Mr. Charles Turner, 

Royal Nurseries, Slough, and Mr. Ware, Hale Farm Nur¬ 
series, Tottenham.- J. //.—The fence evidently does 

not l>elong to you. Your neighbour could object to your 
puitlrg nails on the top. but you could put wire netting 
fastened to uprights planted firmly in the ground ana 

"itbout attaching the wire to the fence.- E. G. D.— 

Try the Indestructible Faint Company, 27. Cannon 

Street, E.C.- X. Y. Z .—The old wood contained enough 

strength to force the buds to break, but it is very pro¬ 
vable they would die off again unless the base of the grow¬ 
ing shoots are inserted in the soil. 

T. A'.—Evidently the work of some insect. Examine 
th* plants by candlelight and find out the depredator. 

— E. B .—We cannot say whether the Pansy sent U a 
named one or not. It does not deserve a name. 

T. 1). Tippett *.—Not at all uncommon.- O. C. F .— 

We think the white spots on the Peach leaves are the re¬ 
mit of syringing with cold hard water. 

Names of pi ants.— H. Rowland.— We cannot name 

plants from leaves only.- Elbe.—Next week.- R. W. 

Greta.—Clematis mont&na, Cerasus Padua (Bird Cherry.) 

— Inquirer. — We cannot possibly name bulbs with 
accuracy; 3 and 4 ore apparently species of Gladiolus. 

Send when in flower.- -J. Uamuih .—1 and 2, varieties 

of Aquilegia vulgaris, and 3 is a double form called caryo- 

phyiloide*; 4, Euphorbia Cypariaslas.- Rose Bush.— 

1, Viburnum Lantana; 2, Staphyleapinuata; 3, Centaurea 
montanm; 4, Iris spuria. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents.—AH communica¬ 
tions for insertion should ue clearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only ami addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
and address of the sender is required , in addition to any 
oorn de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the query 
aimcered. When more than one query is sent each should 
on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of 
Gaepktiso going to press a considerable time bejore the 
day of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received . Queries not 
ordered should be sent to us again. 


flight, but cannot get what I want—need lings of green, 
grey, and white-edged Auriculas to flower next spring.— 
Cork. 

9347.—Bonnets in a lawn.—I cannot exterminate 
the Bonnets in my lawn. I have tried pulling them lip 
by the roots, but mo3t of them break off, and also a drop 
of sulphuric acid In the centre of each plant has been 
tried, but they flourish now as much as ever. One I 
pulled up had a root 14 inches in length. Will someone 
kindly tell me a means of getting rid of these weeds ? I 
have heard that a dressing of lime is an improver of 
lawns ; if of any use, how and when should it be applied! 
I may add there are many other sorts of weeds as well as 
Bennets. The lawn was laid about ten years ago on 
ashes and chalk.—J. H. G. 

984S.— Cheap manure.— In Gardening of March 3 
there was an article signed “ Surgeon,” which gave as a 
specific for deodorising liquid sewage stored in a cask 
sulphate of iron. I Bhall be glad if he would give the 
quantity necessary per gallon of liquid, and whether it 
should be applied at time of using, or before, and how 
applied. I nv^an is it to bo put In and allowed to ferment, 
or must there be an immediate stirring up of the liquid 
in the cask. Will he also say if any injury is done to 
plants or roots by the sulphate of iron?—G. L. P 

9849. —Prices of vegetable crops.—What is the 
average charge per acre for trenching land near London, 
and preparing it for market garden crops, such as 
Cabbage, Lettuce, Ao. ? What would be considered an 
average price per aero for a fair crop of Parsnips disposed 
of at Covent Garden Market? About what sum would 
an acre of established Rhubarb realise nt tho same 
market ?—Jackson. 

9850. —Cytisus racemosus.—My plants of this have 
just stopped flowering, bhall 1 cut them back now' ? If 
so, ought they to be pruned hard ? I have had them for 
over two years and have never pruned them, so that they 
are now large plants. This year they produced many 
flower buds, half of which never opened, but fell off or 
died. Can anyone give a cause and suggest a remedy for 
this?—N emo. 

9851. — Clematis indivlsa lobata — My plant of 
tills has recently stopped flowering. Should I now prune 
it, or what is the proper treatment for the ensuing 

| summer months, and what can I do to prevent its stem 
gradually losing all its leaves, which it at present seems 
likely to do ? it is weekly becoming more unsightly, as 
the growth is all to the top.—0. P. 

9852. —Grubs in new garden.—Will some reader 
kindly tell me some means of destroying grubs? Mine is 
a new garden, and the beds have been made up of old 
turf, and large, greenish brown grubs abound in 
thousands, devouring seeds aud attacking the roots of 
all newly-bedded out plants.—E. B. 

9853. — A zaleas and Rhododendrons.— Would 
someone kindly tell me how I can help my Rhododen¬ 
drons and Azaleas to flower every spring? They flower 
profusely one spring, but do not show a blossom the next 
spring—I conclude from exhaustion. The soil is a 
poor, sandy one, at Bournemouth.—lNEXi'KltiEKCE. 

9854. — Artificial manure for plants. — What 
quantity of Clay’s fertiliser should be put to a bushel of 
mould for potting Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, and such 
plants, and what is the best method for applying it to 
plants already in pots, and how often should it be 
applied ?—Cla ptoN. 

9855. —Grapes shanking:.—I have a vine in my 
vinery that is rooting all up the cane ; it has done so theso 
three years, and the fruit shanks off instead of ripen¬ 
ing. Will any reader kindly tell me what I am to do 
with this Vine ? It is a black Muscat.—S. S. 

9856. — Insects In vegetables.— Can anyone inform 
me how to destroy the insects that come from a wooden 
fence surrounding my garden. They attack Scarlet 
Runners and Radishes. I have tried soot, lime-water, 
and Tobacco-wattr, but without any good result.—C. C. 

9857. —Anemone iaponica.—Should I take up all 
the young plants which have sprung up round the old 
stoolsof Anemone japonicaalba? They are suckers or seed¬ 
lings. Should each small plant be planted in the open 
ground separately, and when?—A. S. B. 

985S.—To destroy slugs.— An amateur gardener has 
read with interest “ J. A. M.’s ” account of how he gets 
rid of slu(?8 with lime water. Will he be so kind as to say 
the quantity of water ho puts to the half bushel of lime 1 
—A Victim to Slugs. 

9859. —Preservine: fruit and vegetables.—Can 
any reader inform me of a good book £t a reasonable 
price that will tell me how best to keep fruit and vege¬ 
tables after they have been gathered or dug up? — 
M. 0. W. 

9860. —Veltheimia capensis.—I have some seeds of 
the above just Rtarting into growth, and shall be obliged 
for information respecting their habit of growth and cul¬ 
tural treatment.—E toniknsis. 

9861. —Anemone coronaria from seed.-I shall 
be glad for information on the culture of Anemone coro¬ 
naria from seed. My seedlings are now up thick in a box. 
—5. L. Bourchier. 

9862. —Eradicating weeds.—Ad rice as to the best 
method of eradicating Dandelions, Bishop Weed, Plan¬ 
tains, Ac., from a lawn, without actually digging and 
resowing, would oblige.—E. W. C. 

9863. — Pittosporum not flowering.— My Pltto- 
sporum docs not flower; it is planted in greenhouse 
border. What is the reason that it will not flower ? I 
should liko a description of the flower.—E rin. 


2^* —Seedlings of stage Auriculas. — Many 
i-'Ardeners and florists supply Alpiuo seedlings, and 
smertise them at prices varying from Is. 9d. to 5s. a 
dezen in Gajidknihg. Are there none who will supply 
the green, grey, and white-edged stage varieties in 
•idlings at a fair price f Three or four advertisements 
appeared of a rather uncertain nature, leaving it 
doubtful what an appheaut would receive. I answered 
two of them, but I could not get stage Auriculas, and 
Lave not up to this time. 1 got a couple of dozen Alpine 
awUUpgs by post, and from seed saved from these 1 have 
'•ockoi my few bedB and tiny cweuhouaes with sopie 


y Rpeei^houaes 
•ucxvii and much pleasure, and r»w wish try 


9864. —Spittle blight.—I am much troubled with 
this blight, which ia now on every young Chrysanthe¬ 
mum shoot in my small Loudon garden. How can I de¬ 
stroy it ?-J. E. D. 

9865. —Luculia gratissima. — Will this do well 
planted in a greenhouse border in a rather shady posi¬ 
tion? Mine at present shows but little signs of erowth. 
Should it have sun, or any special treatment?—E rin. 

9866. -Caladiums and Euphorbias.—Will some 
reader kindly give me some information ns to the manage¬ 
ment of Caladiuma, Euphorbias, and Marautas7 — 

er » Auc.irroN. 


9867. —Cabbage etumps.—Is it a more profitable 
plan to leave the stumps of Cabbages in Juno to break 
agnin, than to plant the ground with some other crop?— 
—E. G. D. 

9868. —Cutting back Ericas, &c — When wo are 
told to cut in Cytisus aud Erica after flowering, to what 
extent must the reduction be carried?—D. C. C. 

9S69.-Marechal Nlel Rose.—Will a Mar6cbal 
Niel Rose intended to bo Rrown in a greenhouse bo best 
planted inside the house or in an outside border?—E rin. 

9s70.—Culture of Cacti—Will someone kindly 
give me a few,hints on the culture of Cacti? 1 have not a 
greenhouse.—A. B. C. 

9871. — Annual Candytufts.—Would any kind 
reader give me the names of all the hardy annual Candy¬ 
tufts ?—constant Reader. 

9872. —Worms and plants.— Do worms eat plants 
or any part of them ?—Clapton. 


POULTRY. 


Chicken.— S. M. — llice is very good for 
a change, but if used constantly is bad, con¬ 
taining, as it docs, so much water and starch, 
and little bone-forming material, which con¬ 
stituents are not suitable to growing stock. It 
is too soon to form an opinion as to how 
your chickens will turn out, they being only 
two months old, but you may at once discard 
those only possessing four toes, as lloudans 
should possess five. The plumage you will find 
will alter very mucli during the next two 
months. The cockerels hatched in January 
which suffer from weak legs must have either 
quinine and iron pills given them, which are 
very effectual, and can be obtained from any 
chemist, or a good proportion of iron tonic must 
be added to the water. It is not a disease, but 
simply the effect of the bird outgrowing its 
strength. Be sure and keep them separate from 
the liens and pullets until they appear strong 
again.—A n dalusian. 

Eggs tainted.—Very recently some eggs 
were boiled for my breakfast; I commenced one, 
and quickly discovered the taste of it to be un¬ 
bearable, exactly resembling the smell of putrid 
fish. I tried a second one, that was similarly 
tainted ; remainder were sweet. The eggs arc 
collected daily and used quickly; the fowls are 
confined. Upon making inquiries, I found that 
one of the hens had strayed away where some 
refuse fish was thrown. During the cold weather 
of last March I mixed freely in the fowls’ food 
ground pepper. We soon discovered the eggs 
were too strong of pepper to be pleasant to the 
taste. Having experienced this, I was soon con¬ 
vinced what gave the eggs the tainted fish 
flavour. Ought not we to feed our fowls upon 
wholesome food ?— Reality. 

- L. M. IS. —I have now and then from time 

to time been troubled with fusty fresh eggs 
bought at neighbouring farms or cottages—trust¬ 
worthy sources from which I should not get stale 
or foreign eggs. We all know' that eggs will take 
through tho shell the taste of things with which 
they come in contact, also that they will taste of 
what the hen eats. I first supplied clean straw for 
nests, thinking it arose from fusty straw. Finding 
the eggs no better, I investigated the feeding of 
the poultry, and found that they had been fed 
with inferior, i.c. y fusty meal, bought for the pur¬ 
pose at the mill. This quite accounted for the 
taste.— C. Wolley’ Dod, Llandudno. 

- Anna .—I very recently had a large num¬ 
ber of eggs sent from Sussex, which tasted so 
disagreeable it was impossible to use them. It 
was discovered they had been packed in bran 
not quite pure. Eggs are so soon affected. We 
also had a great number spoiled by being put 
into a store cupboard in which there were many 
oranges and lemons. The eggs could only be 
used for sweets.— Penico. 


BEES. 

SEASONABLE NOTES. 

Artificial .swarming.— The time at which 
a swarm will leave a hive is very uncertain, 
chiefly on account of the variableness of our 
climate. Bees are often on the point of swarming 
when a change in the weather takes place, and the 
swarming has to be delayed ; and if unfavourable 
weather continues, the embryo queens are de¬ 
stroyed and sw-arming checked till queen cells 
are again prepared, and possibly no swarming 
takes nlace that season. The surer and safer 
method of artificial swarming is, therefore, 
practised by most advanced beekeepers, it having 
many advantages over natural swarming. When 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


166 


bees are left to swarm naturally, they have to be 
watched, lest they should leave the hive unseen 
and be lost, and the chances are that when one's 
attention is unavoidably withdrawn for a time 
this is just what does take place. Again, bees 
will frequently hang out of the hive and cluster 
under the floor-board for as long as a fortnight 
or three weeks before swarming, thus spending 
the most valuable time for honey gathering in 
idleness ; this clustering is owing to the hive being 
full of bees, who thus wait till the queen is ready 
to accompany them to form a new colony. There¬ 
fore, as soon as a hive is crowded with bees and 
drones are observed, artificial swarming may be 
performed, and much valuable time saved the 
beekeeper in watching and the bees in waiting 
for the queen to leave the hive. Other advan¬ 
tages of artificial swarming might be named, but 
the fact of its answering as well as natural 
swarming, and that it can be performed at the 
convenience of the beekeeper in a few minutes, 
and at any time of the day, is probably suffi¬ 
cient to recommend the practice of it to those 
who do not care or have not the time to watch 
day after day for swarms to come of! naturally. 
If the bees to be artificially swarmed are in a 
bar-frame hive, the hive is first moved to a new 
stand and a new hive placed on the old stand ; 
a bar of comb on which the queen is found is 
removed with t he queen and bees clinging to it, and 
placed in the new hive on the old stand, also any 
more frames of brood that can be spared from 
the old hive. The gap made in the old stock is 
closed up by drawing the frames together; by 
placing the old stock on a new stand many of the 
bees return to their old position, and join the 
artificial swarm, and so strengthen the new 
colony, but enough will remain with the parent 
hive to carry on the work. In taking frames of 
comb from a hive, note must be taken of their 
position, so that they may be replaced in the 
same order, or they will not fit, but in some in¬ 
stances crush against each other to the injury of 
the brood. Artificial swarms are taken from 
straw skeps by driving, taking care that the 
queen goes up into the empty skep with the 
swarm, and that sufficient bees are left in the 
parent hive to cover the brood and carry on the 
business of the hive. The swarm is then 
placed three feet or more to the right, and 
the parent hive the same distance to the left 
of the old stand; the brood in the old hive 
hatching out, the population quickly increases, 
and a new queen is reared by the bees. If there 
are no embryo queens in the hive when the arti¬ 
ficial swarm’is made, the bees will convert worker 
brood into queens. They select a worker grub, 
not more than three days old ; they then remove 
the two grubs oocupying the cells adjoining the 
cell of the selected one, take down the waxen 
walls which separate these three cells, and 
build round the grub a queen cell. The grub 
being fed for two days on royal jelly, is then 
sealed over, and at the end of fourteen days 
from the time the egg was laid, that grub, which 
under ordinary treatment would have become a 
plain worker, now comes forth a perfect queen. 
If it is wished to make a swarm to send away 
packed in a skep, the stock is removed from its 
stand, upon which is placed a large board. Upon 
this is placed the empty skep, the front being 
propped up with a stone or wedge. The queen is 
now searched for, and the comb on which she is 
found is carried to the skep; the queen is lifted 
gently (the thumb and finger being placed over 
the roots of the wings), and put upon the board 
just within the skep ; the bees are then shaken 
off the comb on to the board, when they run 
into the skep and join the queen. More combs 
are brought and shaken in the same manner, till 
enough bees for the swarm have been collected ; 
the swarm is now removed, and the stock replaced 
upon its old stand. 

Second swakms or casts should be dis¬ 
couraged, as too frequent swarmiDg is injurious; 
it leaves the parent hive very weak, and divides 
a strong colony into a number of weak ones ; and 
as having all stocks strong is the secret of suc¬ 
cess in bee keeping, second swarms, if not very 
early, should be prevented, which may be done 
by cutting out all queen cells but the most per¬ 
fect one. There is, however, ©ne inducement to 
preserve second swarms, and that is the fact of 
their being always headed by young queens, and 
if they winter safely are sure to do well the next 
season. Casts usually leave the hive about the 
ninth day after first swarms. The chief indication 
of a cast beingjibout to leave a hive is a shrill 

Digitized by GOOgle 


piping sound, which is made by the young queen 
in her attempts to destroy her rivals yet in 
embryo, which being prevented by the workers, 
she leaves the hive accompanied by a part of the 
community. They often cluster further away 
from the parent hive than do swarms, and issue 
at any time of the day, regardless of the state of 
the weather. Should two second swarms come 
off on the same day, they may be united in the 
evening by shaking the bees out of one hive on 
to a cloth, and immediately placing the hive 
containing the other swarm over them, wedging 
np the hive that the bees outside may pass under; 
they will ascend and join those already in pos¬ 
session. 8. S. G. 


Superingbees. —I appear to have a fine lot 
of bees in a straw hive. I have a brick on the 
top hole. When should I put on the straw cap, 
before or after they swarm ? I have heard it 
ought to be put on in May.—W. T. [If a straw 
cap or super is put on when bees show signs of 
crowding, swarming is sometimes prevented; 
therefore if “ W. T.” wishes to have a swarm he 
had better not put the cap on the old stock, but 
on the swarm from eighteen to twenty-one days 
after its leaving the parent hive. A piece of 
comb fixed in the cap will be an inducement to 
the bees to commence work in it.—S. S. G. 

Fallen combs.— I have a hive of bees 
which was earned about 12 miles. 1 find the comb 
has all fallen down; it is full of bees, but they 
are not working, so far as 1 can see. I cannot.say 
whether they have swarmed this season or not, 
but t hey are killing the drones. Any information 
as to how to treat them will be much esteemed 
by RUSTICUS. [The falling of the comb is a 
great misfortune, and it is to Ikj feared that what. 
“ Rusticus ” takes to be the killing of the drones 
is robber bees attacking the hive and carrying 
off the honey, being attracted by the scent of 
the honey which lias run from the fallen combs. 
The stock might l>e saved by transferring the 
combs and bees to a bar-frame hive. We saved 
a stock under similar circumstances by cutt ing a 
hole in the top of the hive and placing a skep 
over it, to which the bees ascended, built new 
combs, and carried up their stores, when the hive 
of fallen combs was removed. Tho entrance of 
the hive must be narrowed to enable the hoes 
the better to defend themselves from robbers. 
—S. 6. G. 

Clustering. —fan anyone inform me if bees 
in bar-frame hives always hang out in a large 
bunch at the entrance for several days before 
they swarm ?— Aims Oxon [As a rule, bees 
cluster outside the hive before swarming. The 
hive being full to overflowing with bees, they 
will sometimes thus lose weeks of valuable time, 
hence the advantage of swarming bees artifi¬ 
cially.—S. S. G.] 


BIRDS. 

Egg-food for canaries.— I have no wish 
to be dogmatic, or to engage in controversy with 
anyone. I only wish to give the result of an 
experience extending over some years, as I think 
it might be of use to some fellow bird fancier. 
Now, canaries being strictly gramnivorous, it 
seemed to me not quite correct to give them 
animal food, especially as most of them seemed 
to do so badly on it, and I resolved to give it up 
and feed mine with seed only, that is, seed, dry 
and soaked, and bread soaked in cold water, not 
in not. water, for that makes it sticky. The result 
has fully answered my expectations. I have 
more ar.d healthier birds than under the old 
egg system, and moreover, have not the vexation 
of losing brood after brood through the hens, 
over-excited, forsaking their nests in order to lay 
again. If those who keep birds will only try my 
plan, they will soon find that it is an improve¬ 
ment on the old method of feeding canaries.— 
W. T. Greene, F.Z.S, 

Canaries breeding. —In reply to “ Henry 
Thompson,” I should advise him to leave the 
eggs with the canaries. My experience of breed¬ 
ing is that it is best to disturb the birds as little 
as possible, and it is only necessary in the case 
of a mischievous cock or in mule breeding to re¬ 
move the eggs as laid. With all due deference 
to Dr. Greene, I still maintain that my experience 
is that it is, as a rule, best to only have one hen 
to one cock bird, and I keep all my canaries in 
separate pairs. I must also disagree with Dr. 
Greene in reference to his remarks that breeding 


(Jcne D, 1883, 


canaries do not require egg food. I ask ary 
extensive breeders to kindly give their experience 
and say whether they do not. give egg food 
all their breeding birds.—G. W. SlNGLETo.v. 

-When the hens commence to lay, remove 

their eggs one by one until each ben ha* lad 
three, giving them, instead, a nest egg, unless 
as sometimes happens—though but very rarely 
—that a hen lays two, in which case they mu-tS 
be given to her. This is easily known if sfci 
fails to lay on the third morning. It sometime*;' 
happens, too, that a hen only lays one eeg. 
Under these circumstances she should not be 
permitted to sit, as it is a sign that the hen ii 
not In really good condition, and hence the 
probability that the egg will be fruitless, and it 
will be a waste of time to set her. In instanci 
of this kind feed very liberally and give ite 
birds plenty of fresh air—an essential elem-:t 
at all times in bird breeding. After a hen hsj 
laid three eggs she ought to be set. The best 
kind of nest-eggs to use are those made of beef 
or ivory, but when these are not procnrahle, 
take a few fruitless eggs, make a hole at each 
eDd of them, and blow out the contents. Ihe*e 
answer very well.— Celer et Audax. 

Insects in cages. — I think if W. 5. 
Harborne will try the following, he will fid a 
answer ; First let the cage be well cleansed with 
warm water; when dry,with aclean painter ! b broth' 
wet t he inside of the cage, pressirg the followiq 
lotion well into all cracks and crevices: Oner.l 
spirits of wine, one gill spirits of turpentine, i 
small piece of camphor and soda—of each abort 
the size of a cobnut, keeping it closely stoppd 
in a bottle, shaking it well before use. ft* 
birds should not be put into the cage for threect 
four days, i **., till the smell is gone off, as it * 
too powerful for them if turned in immediate: 

—Aylb&bury. 

Treatment of young parrots-IUI 

someone tell me what to do with a young parr.t 
that does not. seem able to moult ? It btj 
constant diarrhoea, and seems to pull at its wir{j| 
feathers to get them out. I have been toH ' 
give him Sunflower seed and Almond nnts.rfifx 
or brandy in the water, or camphor, cold b «fu. j 
and a chicken bone. I shall be much oblige 
for any hints.—L ycopodium. 

Canaries neglecting their young 1 
have a pair of canaries ; they bad young cue 
last month, which were fed by both pratt* 
until they were a fortnight old, when theycotfi 
to attend to them, and the consequence w«tbw 
died of starvation. The old birds immediate!* 
commenced nesting again, and the hen is to* 
sitting on five eggs. Can any reader sugsts' 
means by which to avoid a similar fate attendirp 
the young birds I expect to have hatched ort 
next week /—L. M. 

Food for canaries. — What is the beet food for roc* 
canaries, also for sitting hen canaries 7 Is hard-boiled 
good for them?—C anary. 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 


Preserving eggs —It may perhaps be in¬ 
teresting to “ F. A1 G. ” and other readers tf 
know that lime requires for solution about ' ' 
parts of water, so that 2^ pounds of unslak^ 
lime in his recipe would be greatly in excess for 
three gallons of water. Cold water takes up more 
lime than warm water, which sometimes girt* 
trouble to the house-wife by precipitating tb 
lime on the bottom of her kettle that had bees 
taken up by the cold water, and could not w 
held in solution in boiling water; therefore,tlx 
application of boiling water to increase the folu* 
bility of the lime would have the opposite effect 
Lime water has been recommended with some 
plausibility for preserving eggs by dipping then 
into the lime solution, and then exposing t hem to 
the air. The saturated lime water on the 
absorbs the carbonic acid of the atmospbert, 
which forms a thin pellicle of carbonate of hoe 
over the shell, excluding the air from the intend 
of the egg, which seems in this case to be the 
chief virtue of the lime.—D. R. 


Rhubarb Champagne.— I have a very 1«8®«# 
tity of Rhubarb and believe excellent Champagne us n 
made from it, and Bhould be very much obliged u 
reader could give me a recipe for making it.—C. /. 

Preserving Green Feas for winter u00*t?!, 1 ! 
some reader of Gardening give a recipe for the aw 
AYLESBURY. 

Fruit juice.— Will someone kindly give roe 
recipe for making fruit Juice?—RUGULAR SrR'<'R ,r 


■ana-ch; 


IGN 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. V. 


ROSES. 

HOSES ON WALLS. 

Considering the extreme beauty, exquisite 
fragrance, and the high commercial value of the 
llose, it is surprising that so few walls are wholly 
devoted to its cultivation. In travelling up and 
down the country one finds mile on mile of 
perfect brick walls variegated rather than clothed 
with skeleton trees of Peaches, Nectarines, Apri¬ 
cots, Plums, or Pears. Here and there, too, one 
meets with walls admirably furnished with such 
trees in perfect health and full bearing, but it is 
doubtful if such even at their best yield anything 
like the amount of either pleasure or profit that 
might be reaped from the same area equally well 
clothed with Roses, whereas in regard to those 
walls on which such trees as Peach, Apricots, 
and Nectarines fail to thrive or fruit freely, there 
can be no doubt that the substitution of Roses in 
their stead would prove a most gratifying change 
to all concerned. For it is a fact to be carefully 
noted by all cultivators, that while Roses are 
rising in value day by day, that of most fruits— 
through changes of taste and of fashion, and the 
increasing imports of foreign produce—is de¬ 
clining. i$o much is this the case that a per¬ 
fect Rose is now worth as much or more than 
a good Peach. And as to pleasure, gratifying and 
beautiful as a wall covered with healthy Peach 
trees in fruit is, yet who can deny that a wall 
clothed with the fresh foliage and glorious blos¬ 
soms of the finest Roses is a sight far more 
pleasant? Many of our finer Roses would no 
doubt be yet finer if grown on walls. Their 
shelter and their shade would prove alike use¬ 
ful to them. The blooms would be protected 
from tarnishing winds, and also at least 
partially from the dashing rains and storms of 
hail that so often play havoc among the most 
perfect of Roses. The plants themselves might 
also readily be made frost-proof on walls. 

In the case of the majority of that magnificent 
family of Hybrid Perpetuals, the mere shelter of 
a wall would suffice to carry them safely through 
the most severe winters ; while as to more tender 
varieties, what more simple and easy than to 
protect them with boughs, nets, or canvas, as 
we do now the trees that, usurp the places of 
their betters, the Roses. By clothing both sides 
of oar walls with Roses, a great deal could be 
done to prolong the blooming season. On the 
northern and on the eastern sides most fresh and 
fragrant Roses might be gathered in the end of 
•July and through the major part of August. 
Thus by the time the east side of the wall had 
finished flowering the Roses on the southern 
face of the wall would be yielding their second 
harvest of bloom, so that by the simple ex¬ 
pedient of clothing both sides of a wall with 
the Fame or different varieties, very much might' 
be done to make the Rose harvest continuous 
from May to November, instead of intermittent, 
as at present. Not only this, but during hot, 
dry weather, Roses full of freshness, sap, and 
sweetness, might be cut from the shady side of 
walls as superior, in fact, as cheese to chalk in 
all those qualities that give value to the Rose, 
such as form, substance, size, fragrance, to those 
gathered from the sunny sides of walls, or dwarfs 
or standards in the open, that have had to hold 
their own as best they can against withering 
droughts and the “ mid-day sun’s broad glare.” 

In advocating more walls for Roses one of my 
main objects is to increase the Dumber of 
varieties or classes grown on walls. While 
readily admitting that far more Teas, Noisettes, 
Chinas, Hybrid Chinas, Hybrid Teas, and 
Ranksians should be grown on walls, I should 
also strongly advise the liberal use of the best 
Hybrid Perpetuals for the same purpose. Fancy 
the magnificence and grandeur of a wall, say 10 
feet high, and a 100 yards to 200 yards or more 
k»ng. planted with such Roses as Charles 
Ufebvre, La France, Alfred Colomb, Annie Lax- 
ton. Camille Bernardin, Baroness Rothschild, 
Beauty of Waltham, Comtesse de Serenye, Duke 
of Edinburgh, Francois Michelon, Etienne Levet, 
Ferdinand de Lesseps, John Hopper, Hippolyte J 
•Jflmain, John Bright, Madame Victor Verdier, j 
Marie Haumann, Miss Has sard, Pierre Notting, 
MUsLaxton, Prince Camille^T^ Rohan, Madlme 

Digitized by (jO, glC 


JUNE 16, 1883. 


Lacharme, Sultan of Zanzibar, Rcnateur Vaisse, 
Star of Waltham, Victor Verdier, &c. Most of 
these are robust growers as well as free flowerers, 
and would speedily clothe a wall of any height 
or length, and there are others in plenty almost 
equally good, and probably some better omitted, 
for this list is merely written out at random on 
the impulse of the moment. Close planting 3 
feet or so apart, and something like multiple 
cordon training with three or five vertical shoots, 
in the way that small Currants are mostly 
trained, would probably be the quickest mode 
of furnishing high walls, while on the lower ones 
oblique or horizontal training would be best. 
Happily the Rose readily yields to any mode of 
training, and it also flowers well close spurred 
on walls. 

The wall culture of the Rose, especially of the 
Hybrid Perpetual sections, would, however, 
probably develop new methods of pruning and 
training to ensure a continuous supply of vigo¬ 
rous young wood as well as a sufficiency of flower¬ 
ing spurs. Of course Roses on walls would need 
good root runs. But in cases of clearing off 
worn-out fruit trees and the substitution of 
Roses, the old borders with a liberal dressing 
of manure would be found sufficient. But 
some would be ready to object that the Roses 
would be roasted on the sunny and starved on 
the shady sides of walls. No doubt they would 
in certain localities, but in such no one would 
be compelled to furnish both sides with Roses, 
nor with Roses of the same class For example, 
the southern side of the wall might be furnished 
with the choicer Tea Roses, and the northern 
with such hardy Teas as Gloire de D'jon and 
vigorous Hybrid Perpetuals; or in warmer 
climates, where Peaches thrive on south walls, 
the west aspects might be devoted to tender 
Roses, the eastern and northern to the hardier 
varieties. Thus walls may be half fruit, half 
Roses, or Roses of different degrees of hardi¬ 
ness on their two sides. D. T. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


Darwin's Barberry (Berberis Darwini).— 
This Berberis is showing itself in fine form this 
year, bushes of it everywhere being all aglow 
with blossoms. It is so accommodating in habit 
that it may be grown almost anywhere; if 
wanted for a house or building it may be trained 
to a wall and made to cover a large space, or it 
may be grown as a bush in the foreground of 
shrubs, or on rockwork or banks, positions in 
which the gracefully drooping branches are 
shown off to the greatest advantage. Not omy 
is this Berberis an object of great beauty when 
in flower, but it is exceedingly ornamental after¬ 
wards when it becomes full of berries, the rich 
blue-black of which makes them very conspicu¬ 
ous. The leaves, too, arc of a very pretty green, 
bright and polished looking, and the plant al¬ 
together has a cheerful aspect. Being difficult 
to transplant, as most Barberries are, it would 
be well if nurserymen kept it in pots, as then it 
could be had at any time with a certainty that 
when planted it would grow. The season in 
which I have always been most successful in 
moving evergreen Barberries is April, or im¬ 
mediately they have done flowering, the point 
being to catch them before they begin to form 
their young shoots, which, if made first, are so 
tender and soft that they flag and become injured 
thereby. Being early this year, I moved some 
large plants before they bloomed, and though 
they have not opened their flowers freely, they 
are all doing well. In planting at any time the 
soil should be thoroughly washed in about the 
roots by using plenty of water during the filling 
in, and when this is complete it is important 
that the soil be mulched to prevent any cracking 
of the earth and to keep in the moisture.—S. 

Double flowered Chinese Plum (Pru- 
nns triloba).—There are but few more beautifnl 
hardy flowering shrubs than Ibis, yet onescldom 
meets with it. For small gardens it has special 
value, as it does not grow to a large size, forming, 
when grown as a standard, a dwarf, spreading 
head. For this reason, when placed in shrub¬ 
beries where vigorous growing trees abound, it 


No. 223. 


should be brought well to the front, where in 
early spring, when crowded with snowy blos¬ 
soms, it forms a conspicuous object. In the 
standard form, indeed, it well deserves a good 
position on the grass; but it should, if possible, 
get some shelter, for rough winds and heavy 
rains damage the expanded flowers. On a sunny, 
sheltered wall this Pmnus is quite at home, as 
then it gets the protection which it needs, and 
the blooms, as a rule, come larger than in the 
open. It may also be grown in bush form, and 
it is really admirable for forcing, as it flowers 
freely in pots in a small state, and requires but 
little heat to induce it to open its blooms. The 
same plants may be used year after year if care¬ 
fully hardened off, pluDged, or planted out, and 
well fed in summer, but it Is better to have two 
sets, allowing them one yeaT to recuperate.— 
J. C. 

May trees (Thorns), white, pink, and crim¬ 
son, in old-fashioned country parks, have been 
very beautiful this season. When additions are 
made to parks, by taking in arable or pasture 
fields, some of the Thorns in the hedgerows are, 
as a rule, retained, and if carefully set out in 
groups they soon produce a picturesque effect. 
The straight lines are easily broken up; and 
even if young trees are planted it does not take 
many years to get them up to a good size. In 
planting, take out large holes in the autumn, and 
then fill with good soil; either three, five, or 
seven plants make pretty groups, planted from 
20 feet to 30 feet apart. Half-standards or bushes 
are best; they must be carefully staked, and the 
stems protected from cattle or game. I like to 
see the colours kept separate, rather than mixed 
up in an indiscriminate way, and the white va¬ 
riety, that is so very lovely, should predominate. 
Groups or single specimens of pink, scarlet, and 
crimson, if judiciously placed, are very effective. 
1’aul’s Scarlet Thorn, with bunches of double 
flowers, each nearly as large as a Banksian Rose, 
is well worthy of a place in even the smallest 
garden ; for when out of flower its clusters of 
berries are very ornamental.—G. 


VEGETABLES. 

CUCUMBERS ALL THE YEAR ROUND. 
Although the system of growing Cucumbers in 
houses heated with hot water is now half a cen¬ 
tury old, and every horticultural journal contains 
a complete calendar of operations, we still And 
many who do not aspire to express speed asking 
for the most simple details which any one year s 
volume of this paper would convey if they* 
would only read and endeavour to help them¬ 
selves. In a letter now before me a young gar¬ 
dener asks for hints as to training and general 
management of the Cucumber,, and as he is only 
one amongst several applicants for information 
upon matters trifling in themselves—and all suc¬ 
cess is made up of trifles—permit me to give him 
and others a faint outline of the method I have 
adopted for obtaining Cucumbers all the year 
round. In our forefathers’ days a bed was made 
up for the commencement of the campaign early 
in January, and the cutting of the first Cucum¬ 
ber was an event which travelled through every* 
garden for several miles round. Modem growers 
commence in the autumn by thoroughly cleansing 
a section previously used for Melons, from which 
they commence cutting in November, and follow 
on with later sowings, which give a supply of fruit 
until the following summer, when brick pits and 
manure frames complete the round of the season. 
In my own management I make a sowing of Tele¬ 
graph about September 10; the plants are kept 
near the glass in a frame, and receive one or moie 
shifts to prevent them from becoming pot-bound, 
provided the house in which they are to fruit is 
not ready. The house is divided into small com¬ 
partments with hot-water pipes for giving top and 
bottom heat. The plunging pit is chambered, 
though fermenting material, consisting of Oak 
leaves and a small percentage of stable manure, 
is used in preference to tan for plunging the pots 
in, and for producing a soft atmosphere so con¬ 
genial to the Cucumber through ail its stages of 
growth. The bed having been prepared, clean 
pots, lfijinches in diameter, are plunged, nearly 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[June 16 , 1883 . 


?Av 


Lobelia cardlualia (var. Queen Victoria.) 


touching each other, along the front of the bed, quired at all, unless the weather is boisterous pains should be taken to prevent the large stormy 
but not too near the top-heat pipes, as the dry and the top lights cannot be opened with safety, stems from being blown over when the plants 
heat of the latter often fosters spider, which soon The best, and perhaps the only safe, way is to fix are left to themselves. A few stakes and i 
enervates and ruins the plants now being forced upon a maximum temperature of, say, 85° to 90°, strand of tar twine stretched along the rows will 
dead against Nature. The next consideration and then to admit air to prevent those figures suffice, as only the longest and strongest will 
is the being exceeded, but never to lower the tempe- require support.—E. H. 

Soil or compost, and as so much depends upon rature, as it is to sudden depressions that the _ 

the selection of asuitable material for winter use, commencement of nearly all the Cucumber 

I give preference to a light, sweet, virgin loam grower’s troubles may be traced. OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

from the igneous rock, which has been stacked for Shading, in the ordinary acceptation of the - 

a few weeks to destroy the herbage, a small word, should not be practised to any great ex- Tall scarlet Lobelias — These are amor? 
quantity of heavier turf from a limestone craig, tent. Sometimes a sudden change from dull to ,he best of flower garden plants for autumn 
and a liberal admixture of charcoal or old lime bright weather, or the strain of a heavy crop of display, and though quite hardy in some soils 
rubble. These are used in a rough state, the finer fruit, may render relief to the old foliage neces- ,lie >' are bcst . taken up yearly. They do not. 
particles being rejected, as Cucumbers, much as 8a ry ; but these causes are only temporary, and however, require half the trouble bestowed upon 
they delight in moisture, soon go wrong in a close, the last-named may always be avoided, as heavy tbem M is necessary with Pelargoniums and 
heavy compost, from which water cannot pass as cropping cannot be too strongly condemned. 

freely as it would from an Orchid. Manure is never The insects to which house Cucumbers are sub- - 

used in a solid form, as it only encourages ject are red spider and aphis of different kinds. 

worms, induces a gross habit which cannot Xhe first may be kept in check by good culture »A- 

be sustained through the dark dull days of and late syriDging every evening with a weak 

December, and becomes exhausted before the solution of Gishurst compound—say, half an ^ '*1* J 

plants require the support which can always be ounce to the gallon of water—or clear sulphur Sir y'iGSW 

given at the proper time in the form of warm water may be applied with the syringe when the A ^ T*’ 

diluted liquid or guano water. Having filled the pipes are not overheated. Aphis is sometimes w'W 

pots two-thirds full, and, assuming that the heat introduced with other plants or crude soil, and w ’sU a.y' y . -1 ’ . I f T/v 

of the bed stands at 100°, we defer planting out white thrips gain a footing where the plants are WV \ /^ j 

until the soil is thoroughly warmed through and kept too dry or inefficiently syringed. The best ^tiiV^Uir it’ V 

stands at 85° to 90°. One plant is then placed in remedy for these is persistent, but mild, fumiga- xf Jtw 

each pot, and trained to a straight stick leading tion when the foliage is dry, a steady bottom —0 X- VcrWlv* 

to the trellis, which is made of tightly-strained heat of 80° to 85° from fermenting materials ^ jjWlM \ - 1 

wires, some 15 inches from the glass. A little which throw off ammonia, and a constant and ahk §/ < V\ SVt fi' 

water is given to settle the soil about the roots, abundant supply of atmospheric moisture, rvhich 1-JcC ^ 

and the plants are slightly shaded during bright m ay be produced by damping every available V V ^ 

sunshine for two or three days. They are then 8 p ace without wetting the hot-water pipes when V W A B ^ 

grown with an abundance of moisture in a strong fires are going. We sometimes hear of y JT V " 

temperature ranging from 70° at Dight to 80° mildew, for which flowers of sulphur is the best 

by day, when a little air is admitted, at the apex remedy ; of canker, which may be checked by V Hr 

of the house only, to prevent them from becom- the application of quicklime to the parts affected ; If ~ 

ing “drawn.” This is taken off in time for the and last, and worst of all, a disease called ^ S', 

house to run up to 85° or 90°, with sun heat, gumming, the which, together with all the ills f‘. 

when every part of the structure is again j have enumerated, advanced growers have j* y - 

syringod, and the blinds are let down at night to annihilated by the application of the Turkish —* 

economise or dispense with fire heat. When the bath T . „ ~ ... . . 

leaders roach theTrellis they are trained upwards Varieties.—A lthough a great number of ^ «— (var. Queen TW-la, 

until two-thirds of the allotted space is covered good kinds have been introduced, nine-tenths of ■ •, , . , , , , 

the points are then pinched out, and lateral the Cucumber8 now grown are of the Telegraph ,? lants ?“ d f ° r fl ° we * decorauor 

growths are thinned out and tied in horizontally breed and for a ll-t.hi-year-round culture 1 have f ° hage f °* the Cardinal Lobelia (L. ow- 
12 inches apart. If the supply from the frames not t met wit h anything to surpass a good lnall8 > ? 8 of a deep bronze colour, and thereto:, 
is still equal to the demand, these laterals are 8train o£ thig genera l favourite. Blue Gown and e !? n '' hen not “ flowe /-‘ he P lanta are » 
stopped at the first joint, when every sublateral Xender and T ° ue , tw0 very handsome and excel- attrac P "““7, ° { the P lants m * 

shows and is in turn stopped at the first joint lent Cucumbers, also occupy the first rank either «”*« for T . thelr { ol,a « e ^one-Iresines to 
beyond the fruit; arge flakes of warm turf and for table use or for " xhibition . Carter's e * a ”P le ’ The roots should be lifted in ID 
lumps of charcoal are then placed over the cham pion, Kenyon’s Improved, and Munro’s wlntar a “d Potted or may be grown in pots^to 
surface-roots, pruning is commenced, and the Rable y are well adapted for winter culture, as *““ r t ba ‘should be treated as a hardy borte 
plants continue in bearing until the main batch th p roduce an immense number of fruit of f lant dn " ngthe su “ m * r ' an , d have a deep. nci 
o winter fruiters come in-about the middle excellent flavour, and, being small, are most !? a “’ w t e J man t ured ’ The plants will keep well 
of January; they are then destroyed to suitable for private use where a fiesh Cucumber lf .P lan ! ed a P for the winter in a cold fru* 
make room for early Melons, or every alternate ; s required every day W C w “ lc “ has the protection of some covering m 

plant is cut out to give more room to those left 4 r j- ■ severe weather. The spring is the best time fc-r 

if it is thought desirable to keep them through - propagation, when the plants have pushed a few 

the month of March, when good fruit is most in Summer management of Asparagus. ihMies of growth ; the roots are then either 

demand and least plentiful. -Seed-bearing tends to weaken the plants, but or the shoots are taken off at the base 

The second sowing is made about September picking the seeds off is a long job which few can and struck in a gentle warmth. Lobelia fulgem. 
21; the strongest plants, also in 16-inch pots, spare the time to do. If the seeds, however, t‘ le leaves of which are deep green, tinted wilt 
are trained under the north roof of a l’ine stove, cannot be picked off before they get large in bronze, is one of the most brilliant of flowering 
but they are allowed more head room, as stopping summer, theyoungseedlings which Isee springing pi an * s ln September, October, and even No- 
is discontinued through December and the first up on the surface of the beds in many gardens ve mber. It is hardier than the one just allude! 
part of January, and a thin board is placed in which I visit (the result of allowing the plants ln * requires similar treatment. The situation 
front of the pipes to prevent water from the to seed) should be destroyed. Letting them grow S} 108 ^ n ' or P* ant ‘ n g should alse be sheltered, 
syringe from generating scalding steam when on unnoticed is the way by which such a thicket better place can be found than among*: 
inclement weather necessitates hard firing. The of weakly Asparagus is produced on the narrow evergreen shrubs, where there is plenty of light, 
pots for these plants require more drainage; old-fashioned beds. The young self-sown plants a ! r ’, and 8 P acG ^ or fbeir development. The ooti 
light turfy loam only is used, and fresh leaves will transplant now with ease and certainty, and p'ghts and damp days of autumn do not appea: 
in a fermenting state are incorporated with the if watered and mulched will make good growth la tb e least to dim the beauty of this Lobelia, 
old, and placed round the pots as often as the the first year. Asparagus succeeds best on light flowers being then produced as fresh, highly - 
bottom-head shows signs of descending to 80°. soils; indeed, I know some heavy clay soils in c °i°ured, and well developed as those wbkt 
To prolong the season after this batcli of plants which the plant refuses to grow, no matter what e £P aQ d earlier in the season. Such plants a ; 
has been removed, not because they are ex- may be done with it. Yet it is a moisture-loving bhese, which flower freely and brightly amongst 
hausted, but as a part of our system to make plant, and where the site of the plantation is tne fogs anddark autumn days, are very welcome, 
room for more Melons, the weakest of the second well drained, artificial irrigation will pay. No and are well deserving of some cultural care, 
sowing of plants are planted in an ordinary one should plant above the surface unless in the Flowera for bees.—Having begun to 
heated pit where the minimum temperature fre- coldest and latest districts. The quantity and keep bees within the last year, and having taken 
quently touches 60°, and the bottom heat does quality cf the produce may be much increased great notice of the flowers they chiefly frequent, 
not exceed 70°. Here winter fruiting is not and improved by planting in trenches and I should like to supplement “ B. Ills ” remarks 
attempted, but they come into use about the arranging the machinery for flooding them on the subject. They certainly do prefer masses 
end of February, and do good service all through occasionally during sharp spells of dry weather, of bloom, but in my garden, where Crocuses and 
the spring and early summer In the general It is most important to do this after cutting has Snowdrops are equally numerous, I observe thev 
routine of details it is very important that a ceased in summer in order to obtain strong haunt the Crocuses and never' approach the 
moisture-loving plant like the Cucumber should growths to form a basis for next year’s thick Snowdrops. Again, Primroses and wliite Arabis 
be regularly supplied with water at nr a little succulent stems. Salt is beneficial as a top- abounding in about the same proportions, I 
above the temperature of the soil in which the dressing on dry porous soils, perhaps less on never pass the Arabis without seeing bees upon 
roots arcgrowing,andthefanie rule applies to the account of its manurial value than from its re- them, while the Primroses are deserted. The blue 
water used for syringing. Of equal importance is tentive character. Many people continue cutting Aubrietia is likewise a favourite, and a Winter 
the admission of air, particularly in cold weather, far too long, while in this, as in all other cases, Heath, though of that I have but one moderate 
and on no account should a cold current be pro- covetousness meets its reward. The beds must sized root. Canterbury Bells and all the 
duced by giving backend front air at the same be very strong and productive that will bear Campanula family seem very grateful to them, 
time; indeed, it rar/ly happens *tmt front air is re- cutting after June in any climate, and some likewise the Myosotis. I notice them, too, on 

V URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


it should a cold current 
)ack.^uid front air at tl 
r^yhajppjns *l^ibf|(^ntc 


Juke 16 , 1883 .] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


169 


the Sycamore blossom, and a little while ago on 
the Almond, while the Willow (commonly called 
Palm) is a special favourite, likewise the Laures- 
tinns, and they are ever humming amongst the 
Cbeny and Apple blossom; and I also noticed 
the other day that the small yellow Clover greatly 
attracted them. In the greenhouse last year I 
had two plants of a sort of Thyme cultivated by 
cottagers in their windows, and called the Hop 
plant, which the bees seemed greatly to 
prefer either to Lemon, Thyme, or Lavender, 
of which I had quantities. I have, therefore, 
struck more than a score of plants (they strike 
easily), and intend bedding them out, but I do 
not think they will stand the winter.— 
Patience. 

Sowing Aurioula seed.— A short time 
ago I purchased a packet of Barr's finest Auricula 
seed, which was sown in well-drained pots filled 
with rich sandy compost. The seeds were thinly 
scattered on the surface, and dusted over with 
powdered charcoal from a flour dredger till well 
covered, pressing all firm. The pets were then 
covered with a sheet of glass, placed in a cold 
frame, and kept well shaded and moist. In three 
weeks after sowing nearly every seed germi¬ 
nated. As this is an unusually short time, and 
not having heard of charcoal having been used 
in the same manner before, I give the result of 
my experiment, to induce others to investigate 
the matter further and to report. Auricula seed 
being so capricious, a solitary experiment is 
not sufficient to serve as a guide.—P. H. 

Humea elegans out-of-doors.— When 
well grown, this greenhouse biennial ranks 
amongst the foremost of plants noted for hand¬ 
some foliage and elegance in inflorescence— 
drooping, feathery plumes, the latter may be 
called. It is invaluable for the centres of large 
vases in summer, and also for the sub-tropical 
garden, either for putting out in beds or for 
plunging in the pots in the turf, or near the 
margins of walks, in order that its rich fragrance 
may the more frequently be enjoyed. It should 
be raised from seeds sown on a hotbed in May, 
and the seedlings should be pricked off as soon as 
they can be handled and potted on before the 
roots get matted together. They should be grown 
in the open air, where they should be treated like 
Chrysanthemums,and be housed about the begin¬ 
ning of October and afforded ordinary greenhouse 
cultivation. By the new year they will be ready 
for their final shift into large pots, and about 
the middle of May they may either be placed in 
position in the open air or be planted out in beds. 
They flower best when plunged in the beds in 
the pots, but need more attention as to watering 
than they do when turned out. 

Tuberous Begonias for flower beds. 

—After visiting the other day a flower garden 
a few miles from where I write, I resolved to 
bring under the notice of readers of Garden¬ 
ing one special feature about which I cannot 
help thinking manvhavehitherto madeamistake. 
I allude to the general custom hitherto followed, 
and the advice too generally given, to allow 
tnberons Begonias to start naturally into growth 
in spring. And first, a word as to what caught 
my attention. In the pleasure ground in the 
first week in June, there were several large 
beds of tuberous-rooted Begonias, perfect masses 
of bloom—something like what one observes two 
months hence under thestarting-naturally treat¬ 
ment ju3t referred to. Those in my beds of the 
same kind allowed to commence growth in 
spring, without heat, will certainly be no better 
the first week in August than those I have 
just seen. The question, then, at once suggests 
itself, is the treatment hitherto recommended a 
mistake ? I say, without hesitation, I think it is. 
The vast majority of tuberous Begonias that may 
be raised effectively for bedding-out purposes— 
and the number is increasing every year—go to 
rest in autumn, and can, with a limited increase 
of temperature, say from a mild hotbed or a flue- 
heated pit, be started into growth the first month 
of the year, or as soon as convenient afterwards. 
No flowering bulbs bear gentle forcing better 
than these Begonias, and this is the custom suc¬ 
cessfully followed in the garden alluded to. 
Manure bed frames are used, and active growth 
is proceeding from February onwards, and this 
enables the plants to be transferred to the 
flower garden any time after all danger from 
frost seems past—say, the middle of May—the 
plants having been previously slowly hardened 
off in vineries or in a greenhouse:, bn .iquph for 


the method adopted, and its practicability, and 
now permit me to note what I consider its ad¬ 
vantages. The great objection urged against 
bedding-out in general, besides the necessary 
trouble in winter-nursing, is the very limited 
time during which it lasts. Tuberous Begonias 
may, as generally treated, have a glow of beauty 
in the middle of July ; but let me ask, why not 
start them early? Why not have them commencing 
to flower by the middleof May, and why nottrans- 
ferthematoncetotheopenground? And, inferen- 
tially, why not have two additional months of 
brilliancy and beanty—that is, why not have 
them blooming from the middle of May to the 
middle of July, instead of commencing to bloom 
at the latter date ? This is what is being done 
here now, and who will say it is not an improve¬ 
ment ? As I have said through these columns 
before, I believe the tuberous Begonia (from its 
easy treatment, accommodating character, but 
especially its great beanty and brilliancy) is the 
flower of the outdoor garden of the future ; and 
as a devoted admirer and small grower, I draw 
attention to this phase in its treatment and in 
its interest, and in order to make these remarks 
more general, let those in towns who have not 
frames start their tubers early in a box in a warm 
window.—J. M. 

Phlox Drummondi.— For several seasons 
I have observed this well-known annual used 
with excellent effect by an amateur who has 
only a very small garden—in fact, simply a little 
plot of Grass with one flower bed in the centre 
and a border all round for mixed flowers. It is, 
however, kept with snch extreme neatness and 
order that passers by generally stop to gaze at 
it. During summer and autumn the centre bed 
is one of the loveliest mixtures of colour imagi¬ 
nable, yet its occupants are only the produce of 
a single packet of seed of Phlox Drummondi. In 
the labour and care bestowed on this little gar¬ 
den lies the secret of success. At the end of 
April or beginning of May early-flowering bulbs 
are lifted from the bed, removed to the kitchen 
garden, and laid in there; the soil is then deeply 
cultivated and mixed with some rich manure, 
put deeply down with the second spit. Some of 
the old soil is removed from the surface, and a 
barrowful of good fresh material is added at the 
top to plant in, last year’s Cucumber bed being 
the material employed. The seed is sown in a 
box set in the kitchen window (the only glass 
available) in the end of March, and when the 
young plants are strong enough they are set 
out-of-Joors under the shelter of a wall to get 
hardened off. When the bed is ready the seed¬ 
lings are carefully planted out about (! inches 



Fhlox Drummondi (var. grandlflora striata.) 


apart all over the surface, and with careful atten¬ 
tion to watering, stirring the soil, &c„ they soon 
cover the bed, the shoots being regulated and 
secured in their positions by means of hair¬ 
pins. As the flowers fade they are carefully re¬ 
moved, as it is the seed-pods that bring the 
display of annuals to a close early. Thus 
attended to, they continue to flower until quite 
late in the autumn.—G. 

Protecting Dahlias from slugs.—I 
do not remember to have seen noticed the fol¬ 
lowing plan which I saw adopted in order to 
protect Dahlias from the ravages of slugs. The 
bottom of a 3-inch or 4-inch pot having been 
knocked ont, the plant was inserted through the 


opening into its proper place. The pot was 
then half filled with horsehair cut into lengths 
of about an inch. I was told this effectually 
protected the plants.—S cotus. 

FRUIT. 

NOTES ON GRAPE GROWING. 

Scalding.— All who cultivate Lady Downes 
Seedling Grape know that it is subject to scald¬ 
ing, bnt I never heard the cause of that liability 
satisfactorily explained. Many attempts have 
been made to prevent it, but I have not yet 
heard of a trustworthy remedy. My own opinion 
as to the cause of scalding is that the air of the 
house becomes heated above the point that the 
very tender Bkin of the berry is able to bear at 
that particular time of its growth. Scalding only 
takes place during a period of ten dayB or a fort¬ 
night, just as the stoning process is completed ; 
Neither before nor after that do the berries scald. 
Why they should be so susceptible of injury just 
at that particular time seems difficult to explain, 
for bunches which are mest shaded suffer as much 
as others more exposed, while other varieties of 
Grape in the same house take no harm. The Vines 
under my own management suffer less from scald¬ 
ing now than in previous years, because 1 aim as 
much as possible at keeping the temperature at 
that particular time comparatively cool. I find for 
that short time that even the Muscat of Alexan¬ 
dria growing in the same house does not take any 
harm, i.e., if the temperature at Dight does not go 
lower than 56°, and on dull days from 65° to 70°. 
I also take care to secure a circulation of air both 
night and day, and to reduce considerably the 
atmospheric moisture, for scalding no doubt takes 
place through the internal air becoming suddenly 
heated at a time when it is heavily charged with 
moisture. My observations apply wholly to lean- 
to houses; it would, however, be satisfactory to 
bear how Lady Downes behaves in this matter in 
span-roof houses. 

Shanking. —This is another matter as regards 
Grape cultivation difficult at all times to account 
for in a satisfactory manner. Broadly speaking, 
I shall not be far wrong in saying that it is caused 
by weak root action, which may result from dry 
borders, overcropping, or from the roots coming 
in contact with unsuitable soil. 1 feel satisfied 
that where shanking takes place it arises from the 
existence of one or other of these unfavourable 
conditions. In my own practice by giving an in¬ 
creased supply of water to the roots, I completely 
got rid of shanked berries, but I cannot say that 
the same remedy would, under all circumstances, 
produce the same result. No one remedy, indeed, 
is a panacea for all cases of shanking; each 
individual case must, in short, be treated in 
accordance with the symptoms which it presents. 

_ C. C. 

Overcrowded fruit trees.—It may now 
best be seen whether fruit trees are too thick on 
the ground. It cannot be so readily seen in 
winter time when the trees are bare and leafless, 
but now, while they are full of foliage, over¬ 
crowding is more apparent. To ensure nourish¬ 
ment for the growing fruit, all fruit trees should 
have a belt of clean soil round them; and also 
as a protection from grabs and caterpillars, the 
trees should not be allowed to interlace their 
branches, as by this means if one tree becomes 
infected with thrip, caterpillars, or grub, the 
other trees will soon become infected also This 
is, perhaps, the case, most with Gooseberry 
bushes. I know how strong is the feeling (with 
amateurs) in winter time, when the ground 
looks bare, to plant just another busb, “ as them 
is ample space here,’’ but the present is the 
only season of the year when we can fairly 
estimate how full the garden is, and this is the 
time when we should go over the garden with 
strips of white tape, and mark all those trees 
that should be removed in October or November. 
In winter there should be a free use of lime- 
wash on the tranks and all thick branches of 
fruit trees. If the limewash be mixed with cow 
dung it will possess more healing properties for 
the bark of large trees, and it will be equally 
useful in deterring insect pests from lodging in 
the crevires of the bark. This process gives 
cleanliness and vigour to fruit trees.—G. C., 
Eccle ». 

Gooseberry caterpillars —An old and 

lexperieucad gardener advised us jest year to 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[June 16 , 1883 . 


plant common Broad Beans in our Gooseberry 
beds, and we had not one caterpillar; the trees 
in former years were often left without a leaf, 
although we tried all the remedies we could find 
inevery gardening book within reach.—B. 

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary—June 18 to 
June 23. 

Planting out some old Pink plants that have been 
forced ; also planting Stocks, Asters, Veitch's Autumn 
Giant Cauliflower, Snow’s Broccoli, Savoys, anil Scotch 
Kale. Layering Strawberry runners and earthing up 
French Beaus. Sowing Snowball, Red Globe, and American 
Strap-leaf Turnips. Planting out Capsicums in open 
spaces against south walls. Sowing the following sorts 
of Teas Laxton’s Omega, >'o 3’lus Ultra, and British 
Queen. Planting out Borecole, Brussels Sprouts, and 
late Broccoli Putting in cuttings of choice sorts of 
Pelargoniums. Looking over Globe Artichokes, and cut¬ 
ting off all stems and heads not required for use. Sowing 
French Beans. Nailing Apricot, Plum, and Peach trees 
out-of-doors. Planting out in the open air newly-struck 
Pick and Carnation cuttings. Keeping floors of Vineries 
where fruit is swelling frequently watered. Digging all 
vacant ground and hoeing between growing crops, lying 
in all leading shoots of espalier Pear and Apple trees. 
Sowing Imperial and Heartwell Early Marrow Cabbage, 
also red anil white Turnip Radishes. Planting out Let¬ 
tuces anil Endive. Cutting back Laurels encroaching on 
walks. Pegging down and stopping Vegetable Marrows. 
Putting strings round Peas that are forcing their way 
through the sticks. 

Sowing Giant White Cos, the Favourite, and All the 
Year Round Lettucps. Planting out Celery and Car- 
doons. Clipping all Box edgings. Looking over all cor¬ 
don-trained Apple trees, tying down leaders anil loosen¬ 
ing any that require it. Sowing broad-leaved and Green 
Curled Endive, also Canadian Wonder Beans, Spinach, 
Mustard and Crew. Stopping and nailing in Tomatoes. 
Thiuning out Parsley and Spinach. Watering all newly 
planted fruit trees. Putting loose ties round all young 
Raspberry canes to protect them from the wind. Pinch- 
ing back the breast wood of Cherry, Pear, and Plum 
trees, and nailing in the leading shoots. Sowing some 
dwarf and Negro Long-pod French Beans, also various 
kinds of Endive. Planting Broccoli amongst Potatoes. 
Plunging Roses that do not require ro-pottlng. Leaving a 
little ail* on vicery nil night where Grapes arc changing 
colour Potting Stocks, Heliotropes, and Carnations. 
Thinning out Lettuces and F.ndive, also late-sown 
Carrots. Nailing and tying in all Robc 3, creepers, and 
Ivy on walls or trellis work. Placing sticks round As¬ 
paragus beds to protect the young growths from wind. 
Watering all newly planted Celery. Tutting large 
standard Heliotropes into tlieir flowering pots. 

Glasshouses. 

Plants under glass are now growing vigorously, 
therefore cold draughts must be avoided as much 
as possible; there must, however, be plenty of 
ventilation; abundance of water must also be 
given, and shade of some kind provided as a pro¬ 
tection to plants in bloom, the beauty of which 
soon becomes impaired if exposed to sunshine. 
Give weak manure water to gross-feeding plants, 
and from specimens planted out in borders 
remove all superfluous shoots and suckers. 
Fuchsias trained to rafters require thinning, and 
Clematises tying to trellises. Do not allow de¬ 
ciduous climbers to intertwine witli evergreen 
ones, as they are apt to spoil the latter. Keep 
up a succession of Hydrangeas, zonal, show, and 
sweet-scented Pelargoniums, B’uchsias, Coleuses, 
Lobelias, Salvias, Cockscombs, Balsams, Sclii- 
zanthuses, and similar plants, and transfer to 
frames or the greenhouse such plants as have 
done flowering. Heaths and some early-flower¬ 
ing hard-wooded plants may now be set out-of- 
doors on a bed of ashes. Old plants of Agapan- 
thus umbellatus should have plenty of water 
and a sunny position. Cut in hard-wooded 
Veronicas that have done blooming, so as to 
encourage fresh growth. Pot. off seedlings of 
Primula japonica, and keep them out-of-doors, 
where they form stronger plants than if nursed 
under glass. Plants of Kalosanthes should now 
have some assistance in the way of stimulants, 
ft s should also Liliums that have formed their 
llower-buds, and some other soft-wooded plants. 
Erythrina6 in pots should be grown in a cool 
and light house near the glass; they require 
plenty of v.ater, and their main brandies should 
have supports of some kind to keep them in 
proper position. Bouvardias that were cut back 
after flowering should now be making good wood; 
they must, therefore, be kept moist and warm 
for some time yet. Persian Cyclamens should 
be kept in cool and shady frames, or against 
north walls; they should receive a little water 
during the summer months. Azaleas that have 
done blooming, and which have had their seed- 
pods picked off, should be repott ed, if necessary, 
and put into a warm pit, where heat, moisture, 
and shade can be given them. Camellias also 
make good growth-Wirler similarIconditions, as 
c[o also Oranges^f ri{iSsj pinching in 


should be practised freely until the plants have 
attained the form it is desired they should 
assume. 

Chrysanth emums.—T he time of putting these 
plants into the pots they will bloom in will, as 
a matter of course, be regulated by the time at 
which they were struck. Such as are grown 
from cuttings put in about the close of the year, 
and which will produce a greater profusion of 
fully-developed flowers than the later struck 
ones, will, as already advised, be ere this in their 
blooming pots, and all the later propagated ones 
should at once have their last shift; for if kept con¬ 
fined in little pots too long the certain conse¬ 
quence is the loss of the lower leaves and a hardened 
condition of the shoots, both of which it is not 
possible afterwards to set to rights. Leaf-mould 
as a mixture with the soil is sometimes recom¬ 
mended for Chrysanthemums, but when this is 
employed the plants have a greater disposition 
to make shoot growth than to flower freely. Good 
turfy loam, with a moderate addition of sifted 
rotten manure and sufficient sand will grow them 
well, potting firmly. As soon as they have got 
fairly hold of the soil stop the shoots as far as 
necessary, but not more, as this pinching is fre¬ 
quently carried much too far and resorted to too 
late, in which case it interferes with the blooming. 

Statices. — Blue flowers are comparatively 
scarce amongst greenhouse plants, paiticularly 
such as are of a lasting character. The different 
species of Statice supply various shades of this 
colour; the flowers are most enduring, and the 
plants when healthy keep on producing a suc¬ 
cession so long as they are in active growth, 
added to Mhicb, the plants last for a number 
of years when well treated; but there are 
several matters connected with their cultiva¬ 
tion in which they differ somewhat from the 
generality of other subjects. To keep the leaves 
in a healthy condition they must not be exposed 
to the full force of the sun from the time it 
gainsconsiderablepoweruntilit wanesin autumn; 
otherwise, they assume an unhealthy, bleached 
appearance, and de not attain nearly their full size. 
The plants should not be kept lower than from 
40° to 45° during winter, or the growth becomes 
stunted. They are free rooters, and require 
more pot room than many things which attain 
larger size. Good yellow loam is the best soil in 
which to grow them, and when in full growth 
during spring and summer tbeyare much assisted 
by frequent applications of manure water. They 
require no training for ordinary uses. S. pro- 
fusa, S. Butcheri, S. imbricata, S. brassicsefolia, 
and Holfordi are all deserving of cultivation. 
Anyone who will keep up a stock of these need 
not be without their flowers for any length of 
time. If cut whilst fresh and dried quickly, 
they will retain tlieir colour and form fora length 
of time. Cuttings made of moderate-sized 
shoots kept in a medium heat and confined under 
a bell-glass strike freely. The present is a good 
time to put them in. 

Veronicas. —Which ever way the autumn 
and winter flowering supplies of these useful 
plants are managed—in pots or planted out for 
subsequent lifting—they must be encouraged to 
make bushy, stout growth. To keep them com¬ 
pact it is well to again pinch out the points of 
the leading shoots, but with the autumn-bloom¬ 
ing kinds, such as Andersoni, the next stopping 
is the last they should receive. 

CORONILLA GLAUCA. —Thisis a pretty summer¬ 
blooming floriferous plant. It is not a large 
grower, and on that account may be used 
plentifully. Small examples of it in C-inch or 
7-inch pots bloom freely. It requires ordinary 
greenhouse treatment. When done flowering it 
should be cut back freely.—T. B. 

Flower garden. 

There ought now to be but little, if any, plant¬ 
ing out to do, nor should there be much thinning 
out and transplanting of annuals of any section. 
This done, the next most important item is the 
well-doing of the plants; to this end, and also 
to the earlier effectiveness of the same, mulch or 
keep the ground loosened with a small hoe, or, 
where the plants are very close together, with a 
pointed stick. Carpet beds we prefer to mulch 
with Cocoanut-fibre; Violas, Calceolarias, and 
the like with droppings. Sup-tropicals are indi¬ 
rectly mulched by pegging down the ground¬ 
work plants as soon as practicable. Trivial and 
unnecessary as these operations may appear, 
they are important factors to real and speedy 


success. Staking, tying, and keeping the flower- 
picked. off Cannas, Castor-oils, See., to aid their 
more rapid growth, are the only other immediate 
requirements needed by sub-tropicals. Ordinary 
kinds of bedding plants should frequently r* 
gone over in order to remove bad foliage and 
(lowers. Pansies, Violas, and Calceolarias axe 
quickly exhausted, and cut a sorry figure in dry- 
weather if the old flowers and seed vessel* are 
not removed frequently. Peg down or pinct 
as may be requisite all groundwork plants; 
high keeping and the working out of every 
line or panel true to pattern is of the utmos: 
importance in carpet bedding, and those who 
do not intend to take these pains ought not to 
attempt it; as for myself, though not highly 
enamoured of this way of planting, within 
certain limits and in certain positions I an 
prepared to defend and practise it. 

Hardy plants.— These being now in grta: 
beauty, a little extra care should be best owed 
on them. Lift such Hyacinths, Talips, aud 
Crocuses as interfere with them, and spread 
them out to dry without removing any of the 
leaves. Cut over the decaying stems of Snake'.- 
heads (Fritillarias) and similar early-flowerinc 
plants. Gather seeds of Squills as soon as the; 
are ripe, and sow them at once. To plant* that 
require support apply strong stakes, but Cam¬ 
panulas, Larkspurs, Pentstemons, Antirrhinum 
Pyrethrums, and some others of a similar 
character look best when unsupported in tfca; 
way. Transplant hardy Primulas kept in pots 
on to a shady border, where they should bo kept 
clean and secure from slugs ; P.japonica always 
grows better when planted out-of-doors iku 
when grown in pots. A mulching of rotten 
manure, spent hops, Cocoanut-fibre, or leaf-soil 
should be spread over the ground, and if iti 
appearance on the surface is objectionable cove* 
it with soil. Phloxes like plenty of nourishment 
consequently a little manure water should m 
and then be given them. Everlasting l'es» 
wintered in pots may now be planted out. Vick 
cornuta and other bedding Pansies should be kete 
well furnished with youDg shoots by occasionally 
cutting out the old ones, and the beauty of bote 
English and fancy sorts will be greatly prolong 
if they are grown in a moist and partially-sbadei 
situation. Train Clematises in such a way ^ 
they will look best. Such herbaceous plant* s? 
have been wintered in frames may now is 
planted out, but in the case of plants inteukl 
still to be kept in pots, a shady position on a \d 
of ashes is best for them; and upon no oonditxt 
should they become at any time perfectly dry 
Remove decaying flowers, except in case* in 
which seeds are to be sown. Double Eeckeis 
which have bloomed should have their s-boot> 
layered, an operation which will soon mducetie 
production of shoots in abundance, and these, 
when they have attained a length of 2 inches & 
3 inches, may be taken off and made into ea¬ 
tings. Pyrethrums for late blooming, if cm 
down and allowed to grow afresh, will come into 
bloom during the later summer months. Hardy 
perennials generally which bear division nay 
still be multiplied in that way, and where tfc** 
is not applicable, cuttings should be inserted si 
soon as possible, in order to ensure their becom¬ 
ing well established before winter. Baidy 
annuals for late bloomiDg should be sown it 
shady spots, to be transplanted hereafter to tb« 
positions in which they are to flower. Heed* of 
Brompton, Emperor, and Queen .Stocks sbouio 
also now be sown for flowering next sprier 
Continue to prick off perennials as soon as they 
are ready for removal. Plants in pots will in¬ 
quire plenty of water at this season, and speci¬ 
mens of such plants as Phloxes, Pseomes, Pjre* 
thrums, &c. f will need attention in the way of 
staking and removing dead blooms. If not al¬ 
ready done, lose no time in plungiDg the stock 
of plants in store pots in wood ashes or sand. 

W.W. 

Fruit. 

Before the laying-in of the shoots of Peaches 
is commenced, a thoroughly experienced person 
Rhould go over the trees to complete the dis¬ 
budding and thinning, and at the same time to 
pinch the points out of young shoots which 
are likely to become too strong, to the detriment 
of weaker growths, or where they are likely to 
detract from the ,size of the fruit, and on no 
account should a single shoot be laid in unless 
it is wantecHo carry fruit next year, c? to com¬ 
plete the furnishing of the tree. Pears. Plums 


June 16, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


171 


tntl Cherries may now have all the strongest 
•reastwood cut away to the third or fourth eye, 
•at the system of leaving all the growth to be 
•nt away at once is not a good one. It is much 
letter to commence earlier and carry on a regu¬ 
ar system of pinching. In wooded districts the 
iarly kinds of sweet Cherries will now require 
letting to protect them from birds, now becom- 
ngmore plentiful. Strawberries, too, will re- 
|iiire attention. There are numerous inodes of 
reatment recommended for the production aud 
irotection of this valuable fruit. The most ini- 
>ortant points at the present time are copious 
applies of water, a ground covering of straw or 
it ter to keep in moisture, and protection from 
>irds and sings. 

Where slugs are numerous, or, indeed, where 
hey do not exist—quantity and quality being 
he first consideration—the most economical plan 
* to place four short sticks to every old stool 
nd two to younger plants, and form a support 
or the fruit by running a piece of matting or 
wine round them some 9 inches from the 
round. All the trusses can then be turned out- 
.ards to the influence of sun and air. Slugs 
re isolated, and the fruit dries quickly after 
liowery weather. Disbud, stop, and train in 
ew growth on Vines in the open air where such 
i required, as in the case of indoor Vines ; young 
mes produce the finest fruit, and provision 
iould be made for the renewal of old ones by 
xasionally training in new shoots to take their 
lace at the winter pruning. The season will 
Iso be a short one for Figs, and the fruit will 
jquire all the aid that can be afforded in order 
3 enable it to mature, such as exposure to full 
ght and sunshine, by tying aside the leaves, 
nd stopping all growths at the third or fourth 
nnt, except those that are required to cover the 
all. Such constant stopping not only represses 
fowth and induces fruitfulness, but aids mate- 
ally the swelling of the fruit. Loosen or untie 
together, as may be requisite, the ligatures 
grafts; as a rule, it will be safe to dispense 
ith ties altogether, and the only attention now 
•quisite will be to keep the stock free from 
loots and suckers; these latter should be per- 
stently removed from all fruit trees.—W. C. 

Vegetables. 

We are just now planting in their permanent 
.aces Brussels Sprouts, the previous crop being 
)ring Cabbage and Lettuce. Brussels Sprouts 
ring strong feeders, we treat them to a good 
manuring and a deep digging. Few things are 
3 profitable, scarcely any so hardy, as Brussels 
prouts: therefore, they deserve all we can do 
>r them. Our first lot of Celery is already out 
od in the trenches, and the bulk of our crop 
ill be out in a few days. My favourite varieties 
re Carter’s Incomparable Dwarf and another 
warf white called Hastings’s White Celery. I 
Iso have a few rows of Major Clarke’s, which 
rows to a large size, and is most useful on 
pedal occasions. Among the best varieties of 
cas to sow at this season is William I. and 
niqne, both of the green marrow type, and not 
o subject to that fatal disease, mildew, as many 
>f the strong growing varieties. Parsnips, 
arrots, Beet, and Onions will now require thin- 
ing, hoeing, and cleaning. I find the smaller 
Inions keep better than giants, and are better 
iked by the majority of cooks. Late Potatoes 
•hould be cleaned and moulded up at once. I 
nay add that we have begun lifting Ashtops 
jom the open ground, a capital crop. Sow at 
>nce a good bed of Parsley for spring use. Sow 
cow a little Lettuce seed, but defer sowing En- 
live until the first week in next month ; if sown 
earlier than this it generally runs to seed. 
< carlet Runner Beans and late Peas must at 
once be staked. 

Thin the main crop of Beetroot before the 
planu get so large as to interfere with the 
growth. Some Colewort seed should now be 
*>wn ; these will be useful for planting thickly 
late in the season after other crops are cleared 
In respect to this vegetable it is necessary 
fiiat amateurs should make sure that they get 
the seed true, and not some small kind of Cab- 
luge which is sometimes substituted for it, as 
d-o Colewort will turn in its leaves and make 
heads when planted later than any variety 
o: Cabbage; it also may be planted under fruit 
trees when these are not grown too close. Of 


course they will not produce Anything like 
r rop they will in an open sifcatiAjp ie\ 


less, what they do yield is so much gain, and 
they help to keep down weeds. 

Where dwarf French Beans are held in par¬ 
ticular estimation, a few more may at once be 
sown ; these should occupy a south border, under 
the shelter of a wall, where, by a slight addi¬ 
tional protection from September frosts, they 
will frequently go on bearing longer than those 
grown on more open situations. Autumn- 
planted Cabbages that have been cut and the 
stools left to produce a crop of sprouts should, 
where the sand is at all poor or of a light 
nature, have a good soaking with manure water, 
by which, in addition to thinning out the shoots 
to some two or three to each stool, they will 
make small useful heads, that will come in 
through the autumn. Keep the hoe going on 
all favourable occasions amoEgst advancing 
crops of every kind. R. G. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 
Everything out-of-doors should now be nicely 
in growth. Bedding plants will be getting hold 
of the ground, and if properly watered, &c., will 
soon make a good display. Daring such a hot 
and dry period as we are now experiencing, the 
evening is the best time for watering; give an 
abundant supply, both at the root and overhead, 
and if, in the morning, the next day promises to 
to be hot, another shower over the foliage, given 
early, before the sun is powerful enough to scorch 
the leaves, will be highly beneficial. 

When, as at present, much watering is required, 
it is of the greatest importance that the surface 
of the beds between the plants should be fre¬ 
quently gone over with the hoe; this not only 
admits the water more readily to the soil, but 
also, strange as it may seem, checks evaporation 
to a great extent, riant out now, after gently 
hardening off, Cannas, Ricinus, Coleus, and other 
tender tropical plants ; also Dahlias, both single 
and double. The middle of June is safer for 
these than earlier in the month, and the later 
planted ones frequently beat the earlier. All 
these strong-growing tender subjects require an 
exceptionally deep and rich soil, a warm, open 
and yet slightly protected situation, and liberal 
supplies of moisture ; in a dry, poor, or shallow 
soil they inevitably become starved and stunted, 
and never develop half of their natural beauty. 

In the greenhouse zonal Geraniums, Belar- 
goniums, early Fuchsias, Petunias, herbaceous 
Calceolarias and many others will now make a 
splendid show if well grown and cared for. Use 
plenty of water, and administer liquid manure 
of some kind to nearly all plants coming into 
flower. A light shading by some means during 
the hottest part of the day will be beneficial, but 
anything like permanent shade or gloom is very 
injurious, almost all greenhouse plants absolutely 
requiring exposure to a moderate amount of 
sunshine. 

Sow now seed of Cinerarias and Calceolarias 
(herbaceous) to flower next spring. A frame or 
hand-light under the shady side of a wall is the 
best place for the seed pots or boxes of these 
now, and the soil in which the seed is sown must 
be made and kept at a moderate and even degree 
of moisture. Tuberous Begonias and Gloxinias 
raised from seed this spring need a rather high ( 
temperature and plenty of shade and moisture 
to bring them on quickly, but old plants will do 
better in an intermediate warmth, with shade 
from hot sun only Keep both moderately and 
evenly moist at all times. B. C. R. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

( Continued' from, page 158.) 


Hardy Border Plants. 

With the fast growing taste for hardy flowers, 
some better way of arranging and disposing them 
will probably be found than was common in olden 
times; at any rate, considering t he strides garden¬ 
ing has made during the last forty years, it is 
certain the old-fashioned mixed border will not 
satisfy all of us now, nor need it, for hardy 
plants are capable of being formed into an in¬ 
finite variety of combinations. We may create 
bold masses of particular plants in suitable situa¬ 
tions, such for instance as the Foxgloves on the 
hillside, the Pampas Grass by the water’s edge, 
the Clematis hanging over the cliff, or rambliDg 
over an arch or arbour. Jackmanni and its 
_ hybrids are specially effective in a good-sized 
i.^[mass in summer. Nearly every kind of plant 


when gathered into masses or clomps has a diffe¬ 
rent effect to what it has when dotted about 
singly. Of course, I do not say the massing 
system should be always and everywhere adopted; 
what I plead for is variety, and sometimes, in T 
stead of frittering our space and material away 
in mixtures that are tame and meaningless, it 
would be an advantage to gather them together 
for a bold coup. 

For the arrangement of a border or collection 
of hardy plants we need not tie ourselves down 
to any one system. If several borders have to 
be planted, arrange the plants differently in 
each. Monotony may creep into a garden of 
hardy plants, just as easily as it used to do into a 
garden of Geraniums. There are certain plants 
of spiral habit, such as the Delphiniums, for 
instance, which seem specially adapted for dot¬ 
ting about amid dwarf spreading plants, as each 
plant in itself is a complete picture, and seeks 
for a contrasting rather than a harmonising vis- 
a-vis. Still, even in the case of these plants, for 
the sake of variety, half a dozen or so of the 
different shades of colour may appropriately 
fit into backgrounds with the happiest effect. 
I am offering suggestions rather than laying 
down rules. I want my readers to think out 
their own case, with a view to making the most 
of the rich materials which lie ready to our 
hands, and let no one suppose that hardy plants 
can be cultivated without trouble. Many of the 
best aDd choicest things will leave us if we 
forget or neglect them. I know from my own 
experience, and the study of different arrange¬ 
ments, that a great deal more may be done than 
has been attempted in most places, where hardy 
plants are ousting the bedding system again. It 
is the custom to call them old English flowers, 
and though they had in the last century, and 
probably many centuries before, beautiful 
gardens—for in all ages, one of the first things 
man has done when light has dawned upon him, 
has been to plant a garden—yet it is certain the 
ancients had no such collections of hardy plants 
as are now waiting for our use. And this being 
so, it is all the more incumbent on us to make a 
good use of them, displaying them in many and 
various ways. Individual tastes and desires will, 
of course, have to be considered, for every owner 
of a garden ought to make his presence felt in 
it. And if he wishes to grow plants for the 
purpose of study only, then he will adopt the 
botanical system of arrangement. Group them 
in families, keeping each species separate; and 
where a really first-rate collection of hardy plants 
is grown, it is a good plan to have duplicates of 
the best and choicest things arranged in this 
fashion in the reserve garden, where they will 
be always under the eye. Many a choice thing 
is completely lost through having all the stock 
planted thickly for effect with mixed border, or 
in some conspicuous situation where bare earth 
would not be tolerated. In planting the her¬ 
baceous border, the usual arrangement is to 
plant the tallest at the back, and then follow 
with a row a size shorter, and so on till the front 
is reached. 

I am not finding any fault with this arrange¬ 
ment. It is in itself excellent, but it does in time 
become monotonous, and if we had more than one 
border to plant, I should say discard the mathe¬ 
matical arrangement and let them break their 
ranksalittlc, some of the tall plants coming down 
towards the front, and others of the low-growiDg 
creeping plants retire up the border to the shade 
and seclusion there afforded them. I have tried 
this plan, and I can assure my readers the effect, 
is not lost, and the ground is better covered 
when the tell and short plants are permitted to 
blend, as they often do in nature. Of course, no 
rules can be laid down for planting a border of 
this kind. Each planter must use his own 
taste and judgment, and it is wonderful how 
interesting it may become, and what a number 
of combinations well thought out, though 
seemingly careless in their arrangement, may 
be had in one short border. Then there will, as 
we break more and more away from the tender 
exotics, be found plenty of hardy plants for 
grouping on the lawn, both in formal beds, if 
they are desired, and also for informal patches 
or large masses on the turf. The collection of 
hardy plants should be named correctly for the 
special behoof of visitors, if not for our own con¬ 
venience. The plan common in gardens, many 
years ago, of growing duplicates of all the 
choicest things in a border by themselves, where 
they could be set out separately and named, so 


172 GARDENING ILLUSTRATED [Jr™ 16, 1883. 


that those who ran could read, was an excellent 
one for the purpose of study, as well as to secure 
stock of delicate kinds, which are often lost in 
a crowded border. In the select lists, which I 
will now give, I will try and distinguish any 
which 1 think has special qualifications by a 
word or two of comment as I proceed, and, as 
far as I can, will give the height, colour of flower, 
and season of flowering. 

Hardy Flowers for Spring. 

Anbrietia grandiflora, purple, 9 inches; Adonis 
vernalis, yellow, 12 inches ; Acorus gramineus, 
yellow, 6 inches; rKthionema coridifolium, rose, 
8 inches ; Alyssum saxatile, yellow, 9 inches; 
Allium Moly, yellow, 12 inches; A. neapolitanum, 
white, 18 inches; Anemone apennina, blue, 9 
inches; A coronaria, various, 9 inches; A. blanda, 
blue, 8 inches ; A. fulgens, scarlet, 9 inches; 
A. nemorosa fl.-pl., white, 6 inches ; A. Pavonina, 
crimson, 12 inches; A. sylvestris, white, 18 
inches. The Anemones are more sought after 
than they ivere, but are not half so much grown 
as they should be. Arabis albida, white, 6 inches; 
A. lucida variegata, white, 8 inches ; Cardamine 
pratensis fl.-pl., white, 9 inches; Campanula 
rotundifolia, blue, 24 inches; Caltha palustris 
fl.-pl., yellow, 9 inches (damp soil) ; Cheiranthus 
Cheiri, various, 15 inches; C. alpinus, yellow, 
12 inches. All the Wallflowers are sweet and 
beautiful, and thrive under the simplest culture. 
Chionodoxa Luciliae, blue, 3 inches; Convallaria 
majalis, white, 6 inches; C. bifolia, white (Lily 
of the Valley), 3 inches ; Corydalis solida, rose, 
6 inches; C. lutea, yellow, 15 inches. The 
Crocus and Cyclamen have been referred to 
under the heading of “ Hardy Bulbs," so need 
not bo specially mentioned here, but no more 
showy or brighter spring flowers are in existence. 
Dielytra spectabilis, rose and yellow, 30 inches; 
Dentaria digitata, purple, 10 inches (damp situa¬ 
tion); Dodecatheon Meadia (American Cowslip), 
purple, 12 inches; D. integrifolium, crimson, 
6 inches; D. Jeffreyanum, purple, 18 inches; 
Doronicum colummo, yellow, 15 inches; Draco- 
cepbalum alpinum, yellow, flinches ; Epimedium 
pinnatum elegans, yellow, 12 inches; E. di- 
phyllum, white, 6 inches. All the Barrenworts, 
are pretty, and should have sandy peat. Erica 
carnea, purple, 9 inches; E. mediterranea, purple, 
30 inches; Fritillaria imperialis (Crown Im¬ 
perial), various, 36 inches ; F. Mcleagris, various, 
18 inches ; F. pnecox, white, 12 inches; Gentiana 
verna, blue, 2 inches (moist, deep loam); 
Glechoma hederacea (fol. var.), blue, 4 inches; 
Hellebores niger (Christmas llose), white, 9 
inches; H. atrorubens, purple, 15 inches; H. 
guttatus, rose, 12 inches; H. orientalis, rose, 12 
inches; Hepatica triloba, various, 4 inches; H. 
angulosa, blue, 9 inches ; Hyacinthus brumalis 
(Winter Hyacinth), various, 9 inches; Hedysarum 
obscurum, rosy purple, 9 inches ; Iberis semper- 
virens, white, 9 inches ; I. gibraltarica, white, 15 
inches ; I. corifolia, white, 6 inches ; I. saxatilis, 
white, 9 inches; Iris germaniea, various, 2 feet; 
I. cristata, purple, 6 inches ; I. florentina, white, 
20 inches ; I. pumila, violet, 4 inches ; I. reticu¬ 
lata, violet, 6 inches. The whole family of Irises 
are very lovely, and very easy of culture in any 
good garden soil. I. reticulata is worthy a 
place on the select rockwork, and should have a 
little peat. Lunaria biennis (Honesty), purple, 
30 inches ; Muscari botryoides(Grape Hyacinth), 
blue, 9 inches; Narcissus in great variety; 
Myosotis dissitiflora,blue, 6 inches; M. montana, 
blue, 12 inches; Orobus lathyroides, blue, 30 
inches; O. vernus, purple, 12 inches; Ornitho- 
galum nmbellatum, white, 9 inches; Papaver 
nudicaule, yellow, 12 inches ; Primulas in great 
variety; Ranunculus alpestris, white, 4 inches; 

R. amplexicaulis, white, 6 inches; R. montanus, 
yellow, 6 inches; Bcilla amocna, blue, 9 inches ; 

S. bifolia, blue, 8 inches; S. sibirica, blue, 4 
inches ; S. praecox, blue, 6 inches; S. verna, blue 
and white, 6 inches; S. peruviana, blue, 12 
inches; S. alba, white, 12 inches; S. italics, 
blue, 9 inches. This delightful race of dwarf 
bulbous-rooted plants should not be transplanted 
often; excellent for margins of borders, or for 
low masses where nothing else will encroach 
upon them. Plant in April, 3 inches deep. If 
the soil is cold and heavy, lighten it with leaf- 
mould and road-scrapings. Saxifraga granulata 
fl.-pl., white, 9 inches; S. pyramidalis, white, 
12 inches ; 8 . umbrosa(London Pride), 12inches; 
S. cordifolia, rose, 9 inches; S. Wallacei, white, 
9 inches; 8 . crassifolia, red, 9 inches; S.opposi- 
tifolia, purnler>3 inches; 8 , .Burseriana, white, 

gitized by GOC gie 


3 inches. This list may be much increased. 
The Saxifrages are well adapted for covering 
the rockery. Bisyrinchium convolutum, yellow, 

6 inches; 8 . grandiflorum, purple, 9 inches. The 
ratin Flowers are exceedingly pretty, and require 
light, sandy soil, in a sunny, sheltered border. 
Thalictrum anemonoides, white, 6 inches; 
Trillium grandiflorum (Great Wood Lily), white, 
12 inches (damp peat bog); Triteleia uniflora 
(Spring Star Flower), white, 6 inches (rockery, 
or some warm, elevated site). 

Hardy Flowers for Summer. 

Actena microphylla, crimson, 2 inches, very 
pretty low plant of mossy growth, suitable for a 
dry bank ; A. pinnatiffida, purple, 12 inches; 
Acanthus mollis, rose, 3 feet; A. latifolius, rose, 

4 f eet.very handsome plant, quite distinct feature, 
good either for grouping or isolation ; Achillea 
Ptarmica fl.-pl., white, 18 inches; Aconitum chi- 
nense, blue, 6 feet; A. japonicum, blue, 3 feet. 
The Monkshoods are a very handsome race, but 
somewhat dangerously poisonous, especially the 
common form. Agapanthus umbellatns (blue 
African Lily), 2 feet, warm sheltered border; 
Agrostemma coronaria (Rose Campian), crimson, 
18 inches; A. Flos-Jovis (Flower of Jove), pur¬ 
ple, 18 inches; Allium azureum, blue, 18 inches ; 
A. fragrans, white, 15 inches; Alstroemeria 
aurantiaca, orange, 3 feet; A. chilensis, red, 24 
feet; A. versicolor, various, 6 inches. An ex"- 
ceedingly handsome group of bulbous plants of 
the Amaryllis order, flowering for a long period, 
should be planted 8 inches deep in good soil, and 
not afterwards disturbed. Anchusa italics, blue, 
30 inches; Antennaria tomentosa, white, 8 
inches ; A. margaritacea, yellow and white, 18 
inches; Antirrhinum (Snapdragon) majus, 
various, 18 inches. 

The Snapdragons are a very interesting and 
useful family, well known for their power of 
adapting themselves to all circumstances as re¬ 
gards soil and situation. Anthericum Liliastrum 
(St. Bruno's Lily), 18 inches, white; Anthyllis 
montana, pink, 6 inches; Aquilegia ccerulea 
(Columbines), blue, 12 inches; A. glandulosa, 
blue, 12 inches. The Columbines are among the 
most interesting border plants, easily raised 
from seeds, which frequently scatter and grow 
under suitable conditions without the cultivator's 
aid. Argemone grandiflora (Mexican Poppy), 
white, 2.4 feet; Armeria cephalotes rubra (Large 
Thrift), rose, 12 inches; Asolepias incarnate, red, 
18 inches; Asphodelus luteus, yellow, 3 feet; A. 
ramosus, white, 34 feet; Astilbe barbata, white, 
12 inches ; A. rivularis, yellow, 3 feet; Astragalus 
stipulatus, purple, 30 inches; Baptiste australis, 
blue, 18 inches; Betonica grandiflora, purple, 15 
inches; Bocconia cordata (Celandine tree), 6 
feet; Calandrinia umbellate, crimson, 4 inches, 
sandy soil; Calystegia pubescens, fl.-pl., pink, 5 
feet, has climbing habit, beautiful plant to cover 
a low trellis; Campanula carpatica, blue and 
white, 12 inches; C. grandis, blue, 24 inches; 
C. macrantha, blue, 3 feet; C. persieifolia alba 
pleno, white, 2J feet; C. pyramidalis, blue, 4 feet; 
C. rotundifolia” blue, 2 feet; C. pulla, purple, 4 
inches. The Bell flowers are very numerous ; the 
above selection comprises some of the most beau¬ 
tiful ; deep sandy loam suits them well. Cata- 
nanohe bicolor, blue, 18 inches ; C. ccerulea, blue, 
18 inches ; Centaurea babylonica, yellow, 4 feet; 
C. montana, blue, 18 inches; C. dealbata, rose, 
15 inches. The Centaureas are most useful bor¬ 
der plants, requiring no special care. Centran- 
thus ruber, red, 2 feet; Chelone obliqua, purple, 
24 feet; Chrysocoma Lynosyris (Golden Locks), 
yellow, 18 inches; Cineraria maerophylla, yellow, 
3 feet; Coreopsis lanceolata, yellow, 2 feet; C. 
grandiflora, yellow, 3 feet; Corydalis lutea, yel¬ 
low, 15 inches; Crinum capense, white, 2 feet; 
C. roseum, rose, 2 feet. The Cape Lilies require 
deep, rich soil, and plenty of water in summer. 
Delphinium elatum, blue, 4 feet; D. formosum, 
blue, 2 feet; D. grandiflorum, blue, 2 feet; D. 
Hendersoni, light blue, 3 feet; D. bella¬ 
donna, azure, 3 feet; D. intermedium, blue, 
5 feet; D. Cambrya, blue, 3 feet; D. ranunculi- 
flornm, double purple, 4 feet; D. nudicaule, 
scarlet, 12 inches ; DictamnuB Fraxinella, purple, 
2 feet; Dianthus barbatus (Sweet William), D. 
Caryophyllus (Clove Carnation). 

All the Dianthus (Pink) family are beautiful, 
and many of them are quite indispensable for 
cut flowers. For backgrounds, or in the shrub¬ 
bery, or for creating masses of colour on 
the higher places in the rockery, or in the 
wild garden, Foxgloves are worthy of a 


place ; some of the forms are pretti; 
spotted. Dracocephalum grandiflorum, blue.) 
inches; Echinacea intermedia, purple, 2 fee 
Erigeron speciosum, blue, 2 feet; It 
nops ltitro, blue, 18 inches; Erodium can., 
folium (Hemsbill), red, 9 inches; E.hymmoda 
pink, 12 inches; Eryngium amethystine? . 
feet; E. giganteum, blue, 3 feet; Funkia rania 
(Plantain Lily), blue, 18 inches; F. japomca,*hiie 
12 inches; F. Sieboldi, lilac, 12 inches; F.ovaa 
puce, 9 inches; F. lancifolia, puce, 9 inches:t 
grandiflora, white, 12 inches. These are splendid 
border plants, having grand—in some instance, 
variegated—foliage and beautiful Lily.lia 
flowers; may be effectively grouped on tb 
grass or elsewhere. Gaillardia aristata, yellor 
24 feet; G. Drummondi, red, 18 inches; G 
Loiseli, orange, 15 inches; Galega offidnL 
(Goats’ Rue), white and purple, 3 feet; Gentiij 
acaulis, blue, 4 inches, damp, deep loam; Gen 
nium cinereum (Cranesbills), red, 8 inches: G, 
ibericum, violet, 9 inches; G. pratense fL-pl. 
blue, 18 inches; G. sanguineunt, red, 12 incte 
G. striatum, striped, 12 inches. The Geraniii- 
are among the best border plants, giving eats 
faction without causing much trouble. Gevi 
coccineum plenum, scarlet, 18 inches; G et 
lense, scarlet, 2 feet; the double scarlet is w 
useful for centre. Gladiolus communis, ret i 
inches; Gynerium argenteum (Pampas Gm-, 
white, 9 feet; Gnnnera scabra, 4 feet; the ti 
last named are very striking plants. Gypsoptl 
paniculate, white, 24 feet, fine for cutting tic: 
Hedysarum coronarium (French Honeysnch 
red, 3 feei; Ilarpalium rigidum, Helmuts 
milliflorum plenus (perennial Sunflowers),j» 
low, 4 feet; Hemeiocallus flava (Day IA, 
yellow, 2 feet; H. disticha fl.-pl., orange j 
inches; Hesperis matronalis p Racket). vafte 
18 inches; Hy acinthus candicans, white 2fer. 
Heuchera glabra, purple, 12 inches; Hjferira 
calvcinum, yellow, 12 inches, speciallyuseMfc 
shady places where other plants do not tha > 
Iris fiavescens, yellow, 2 feet; I. fioruta 
white, 2 feet; I. nudicaulis, violet, 9 inchesi 
sibirica, blue, 2 feet; I. variegata, stripe 
feet; I. xiphioides, blue, 18 inches; lalnp 
californicus, lilac, 24 feet; L. grandiflorasiEx- 
lasting Pea), rose, 4 feet; L. latifolius, teat 
feet ; L. alba, white, 3 feet. 

The Everlsisting Peas are very showy and» 
fnl for covering low walls qr training np fits 
of trees. Liatris elegans, purple ,24 feet; LspM 
purple. 3 feet; Lilium colcbicum, lemon,list; 

L. excelsum, cream, 4 feet; L. longifcx, 
white, 2 feet; L. chalcedonicum, scarlet, 5 4s; 

L. auratum, striped, 4 feet; L. candidnm,*ft 
3 feet; L. croceum, orange, 24 feet; L.Man; 
gon, purple, 2 feet; L. speciosum, carmine, - 
feet; L. tigrinum, scarlet, 24 feet; L. Brew, 
white, 34 feet: L.Washingtonianum,white,51st 
Though "the list of Lilies may be increased j- 
definitely, eo numerous are they, the alow 
dozen will do to start with. A deep loamy x - 
suits them best, and for all the species I- 
mentioned it should be well drained. Hants?, 
less than 8 inches deep, and transplant 
necessary soon after the flowering period is cm 
in autumn. Linum flavum, yellow, 12 inchfc 
Lnpinus polyphyllus, blue, 3 feet; Lytto 
roseum superbum, rose, 2 feet; Lobelia syptfl- 
tica, blue, 2 feet; L. cardinalis, scarlet, 2 
a grand plant, should have protection in wicK 
Lychnis chalcedonica, scarlet, 18 inches; fco 
moschata alba, white, 24 feet; Ji. Moreni,r»*. 
24 feet; Mimulus luteus, yellow, 9 inches 
guttatus, yellow, 12 inches, moist situation oak : 
Monarda didyma, red. 2 feet; M. pnipaa* 
purple, 2 feet; GSnothera fruticosa, yellow-. 
feet; (E. macrocarpa, yellow, 9 inches; <E G* 
ciosa,white, 18 inches. The Evening Primrose.-^ 
a beautiful race of plantB. Onosma tanrica. w 
low, 9 inches; l'teonia albiflora, white, 2 feet; >■ 
officinalis, crimson, 24 feet. The Pseories an 
all grand plants, and can be had in many v»*j 
ties. Panicum altissimum, red, 5 feet, beaut'-u 
grass, deep, warm, loamy soil; Papaver orientals, 
scarlet, 24 feet; P. pilosum, orange, 18 in®*' 
Pentstemon gentianoides, purple, 2 feet; r- 
batus, scarlet, 24 feet,; P. procerus, blue, 1- IC ’ 
ches ; P. Digitalis, white, 16 inches. 

The gentianoide group has been elevate ) 
into florists’ flowers, and has assumed large P'"' 
portions specially worthy of cultivation. P®*™ 
arundinacea variegata,striped canary grass, wm-t 
2 feet; Phlox decussate, various, 3 feet to 4 ; 

a much improved family, very showy, and 
under good cultivation j folemouium cjernlw 



J cne 16, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


173 



'Jacob's ladder),bine, 2 feet; Polygonatum mul- 
tiflorum (Solomon's Seal), white, 2 feet; Poly¬ 
gonum Sieboldi, white, 3 feet; P. cuspidatum, 
white, 5 feet; P. filiforme (fol. var.), rose, 2 feet. 
Very striking plants, blooming late in summer 
and autumn. Potentilla formosa, red, 18 inches; 
P. splendens, yellow, 12 inches; P. atrosan- 
guinea, crimson, 18 inches. The Potentillas or 
“ Cinquefoils "—to use their English cognomen 
—are all beautiful border and rockery plants, 
the varieties of the last named (atrosanguinea) 
being specially worthy of notice. The double 
varieties of Potentilla are also very beautiful. 
All, both double and single, are easily raised 
from seeds. Pyre thrum uliginosum, white, 4 
feet; I', roseum (single and double), in great 
variety, which is 
annually increas¬ 
ing, height 2 feet, 
splendid bed and 
borderplants.and 
line for cuttings. 

Ranunculus acris 
flore-pleno (dou¬ 
ble Buttercup), 
yellow, 12 inches; 

11 . amplezicaulis, 
white, 6 inches. 

All the Butter¬ 
cup family re¬ 
quire moist soil; 

R. asiaticus (flo¬ 
rist Ranunculus), 
various, 9 inches, 
lludbeckia spe- 
ciosa orange, 2 
feet; R. Drum- 
mondi, yellow, 2 
feet; R. New- 
mani, yellow, 4 
feet; R. hirta, 
y ellow, 2} feet; 

Saxifrage Aizoon, 
crimson, 9 inches; 

8. Cotyledon, 
white, IS inches; 

Scabiosa cauca- 
sica, blue, 2 feet; 

S. ochroleuca, 
yellow, 12 inches; 

Senecio Doroni- 
cum, yellow, 12 
inches; S. ja- 
ponicus, yellow, 

4 feet; Spiraea 
Aruncua, white, 

4 feet; S. Fili- 
pendula pleno, 
white, 18 inches; 

S. palmata, car¬ 
mine, 2 feet; S. 
vennsta, rose, 2 .J 
feet; 8. Ulmaria 
ttore-pleno, white, 

20inches; Statice 
latifolia, blue, 24 
feet; St. speciosa", 
rose, 18 inches; 
stenactis arun- 
cus, white, 3 feet; 

Stenactis speci¬ 
osa, purple, 2 
feet; Symphytum 
caucasicum, blue, 

18 inches ; Tha- 
lictrum minus, 
green, 12 inches, 
foliage useful for 


the composition on one side of them, then bind 
them tightly round the hose, and fasten firmly 
with twine. Let it remain twenty-four hours, 
then take off the twine. The hose must be dry 
before the plasters are applied. Keep the 
cement in a glass-stoppered bottle. It is good for 
many household jobs, and will not dissolve in 
anything except its own spirit.— Exon. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


DOUBLE FLOWERED BEGONIAS. 
Thebe make a fine display in the greenhouse 
during summer, and are useful for supplying 
bright flowers for baskets, vases, ice. They re¬ 
quire exactly the 
same treatment 
as the single 
flowered kinds, 
and the flowers 
last longer in 
perfection. As re¬ 
gards kinds, there 
is a marked im¬ 
provement of 
late, and some of 
the new kinds are 
far ahead of the 
older ones. One 
of the most beau¬ 
tiful doubles we 
have yet seen is 
one appropriately 
named Queen of 
Doubles, of which 
we give an illus¬ 
tration prepared 
from plants 
grown in Messrs. 
Laing and Co's. 
Nursery at Fo¬ 
rest Hill. The 
flower of this va¬ 
riety is simply 
perfection, being 
quite a rosette, 
and the half- 
expanded buds 
bear a stronger 
resemblance to 
Tea Rose buds 
than anything we 
have seen. The 
colour is a rich 
glowing crimson, 
so clear and bril¬ 
liant as to be 
dazzling to look 
upon; the habit 
of growth is good, 
and it is a copi¬ 
ous flowerer, in 
short it is a splen¬ 
did variety, and 
one that must in¬ 
evitably become 
popular. Other 
beautiful new 
kinds are Glory 
of Stanstead, with 
large rosette-like 
flowers of a deep 
rose colour, shad¬ 
ed with white in 
the centre, and of 
a drooping habit 
of growth; Mad. 
C,o masse, with 
huge blossoms 
very double and 
of a bright rose; 
William Bealby, very large and of an orange-red 
colour; Dr. Duke is a tine bright salmon-red; 
and Campaniflora, with semi-double white 
fl owers overlaid with a creamy shade. One of 
the finest double whites yet raised is called 
Blanche Jeanpierre, the flowers of which are 
perfect rosettes and of a soft yellowish white. 
An exquisite variety is Fulgurant; it has a 
drooping growth, dark foliage, and perfectly 
double flowers of a rich deep crimson. This is, 
we think, among the most beautiful of all the 
doubles, and is particularly suitable for growing 
in suspended baskets. Among older varieties 
in flower were Davisi fl.-pl. s*perba,tbe splendid 
variety which gained so much admiration last 
year; also the lutes form, which by the way is 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


cuttings; LyalH, 
o shrubby species 
from New Zea- 
land, Tradescan- 

v ‘ r 8 ip> c a, violet, 15 inches; Tradescantia 
«ba, white, 15 inches; T. rubra flore-pleno, red, 
;* ‘“thes: Tritoma Uvaria glaucesens, red, 3 
rest; Trolling asiaticus, yellow, 12 inches; T. 
mpellifolios, yellow, 12 inches; Veratrum al¬ 
ts', green, 3^ feet; V. nigrum, black, 3 feet. 
™ white and black Hellebores are striking 
plants, of noble aspect, and in strong soil attain 
srge proportions. Veronica amethystina, blue, 
inches; V. austriaca, blue, 12 inches; V.gen- 
'tnoiaes, blue, 18 inches; V. saxatilis, blue, 0 
senes; V.corymbosa, blue. 18 inches; V. Teu- 
light blue, 2 feet; V. longifolia(var ,Sub- 
* grand species from Japan, blue, 2 
>1 V ,' incan *. blue, 9 inches, this plant has 
« downy foliage, usef^ftr^dgi^^ 


Begonia Queen of Doubles. 


cated, and manure recommended to be covered 1 
Surely not on the score of appearance, but for 
retaining the valuable constituents.—S. B. , 

9824.— Seaweed in gardens.— Dig it in 
as it is in the spring and autumn. It will im¬ 
prove the soil for Potatoes, Cauliflowers, Ac., and 
will be thoroughly rotted in from six to eight 
weeks. It is largely used in Cornwall, the 
Channel Islands, and on the coast of France by 
market gardeners.—E xon. 

9829— Repairing garden hoee.— Take 
2 ounces or more of naptha, into which drop as 
much shellac as it will absorb, till of the con¬ 
sistence of thick gum. Cut some bandages of 
canvas, American cloth, or thin leather, spread 


light blue, 12 inches; Yucca filamentosa, white, 
24 feet; Y. gloriosa, white, 4 feet; Y. recurva, 
wnil 


hite, 3 feet. 


E. Hobday. 


Waste In manuring.— In Gardening 
of May 12 there is an article on “ Waste 
manuring,” signed “ C. G. P." The writer states, 
rx cathedra, that “ manure spread on the surface 
of the soil exposed to the weather does not lose 
its fertilising qualities." He no doubt quotes 
Dr. Voelcker in proof of his opinion; but 
doctors differ and patients are lost. Does not 
manure consist of volatile salts—ammonia, Ac. ? 
and would not common sense tell us that if 1 
these are allowed to escape the manure will be 
deteriorated ? Why are manure sheds advo- 1 











174 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[June 1G, 1883. 


not yellow, but rather orange-red. A represen¬ 
tative collection of other double kinds would 
include Clovis, Dinah Felix, Marie Bouchet, 
President Burelie, Paeonimflora, Mad. Ketelecr, 
Gaston Malet, Esther, Comtesse, H. D. Choiseul, 
Balsaminreflora, and Marie Limbert, the latter 
a beautiful drooping variety. 


A CLIMBING BEGONIA. 

(b. fuchsleoides). 

When well grown, this is one of our best and 
most free flowering Begonias both in pots and 
planted out. It is an excellent plant for 
covering trellises or pillars in greenhouses or 
conservatories. It succeeds in almost any 
position, provided it gets a certain amount of 
sunshine to ripen the young shoots. During the 
winter months this plant is seldom out of flower; 
in short, it keeps flowering more or less during 
the whole year round. Cuttings of it may be 
rooted at any time of the year, but early in 
spring is the best time. They may either be 
placed singly in small pots, or several together 
may be put into larger pots. The soil, which 
should be finely sifted, should consist of loam, 
leaf-mould, and a little peat, adding plenty of 
sand to keep the whole porous. After filling 
the pots with soil loosely, put in the cuttings, 
making them firm, and watering them with a 
fine-rosed watering pot. Place the pots in a house 
or pit in which there is a temperature of from 
60° to 65°. Thus treated, the plants will root 
in a few days. Later in the summer they will 
root in a cold pit or frame, and make good plants 
for flowering early the following spring. Pinch 
off the tops of the young shoots several times 
during their growth to induce them to become 
bushy. Cuttings rooted early in small pots 
should be potted onwards as soon as they arc 
ready for a shift, and in the case of those which 
have been rooted several together in one pot, 
they will require to be potted separately. When 
well rooted, the soil which I find suits them 
best is a mixture of equal parts of good turf and 
peat, broken into pieces about the size of 
Walnuts, some sifted leaf-mould, and plenty of 
sharp silver sand to keep the whole compost open. 
The roots of this plant are very impatient as 
regards wet or sour soil. They will need a shift 
as often as they fill their pots with roots, until 
they are transferred to those in which they are to 
bloom. Good sizes for general purposes are 
6 -inch and 84-inch pots. 

The flowers of this Begonia withstand the 
effect of gas better than those of other plants 
which I have used for house decoration. When 
well cared for in summer the plants will begin 
to bloom early in autumn. Where boxes are 
used for plants on trellises they should be made 
18 inches deep and 2 feet wide; the length must 
depend upon the space at disposal. If only one 
plant is to be put into each box, 3 feet will be a 
good size, and will be found to be large enough 
for a number of years. Holes must be made 
in the bottom of the boxes in order to ensure 
efficient drainage; place 4 inches of crocks or 
broken bricks in the bottom, and cover them 
o’-erwith some thin sods, partly rotten, or pieces 
of rough peat, which are equally good. The 
compost for boxes should consist of old turf, 
chopped pieces rather lumpy ; peat also in lumps, 
and a portion of sifted leaf-mould. The turf 
and peat may be used in equal portions, adding 
a good quantity of sharp silver sand. Plants one 
or two years old should be planted if at hand, as 
they soon cover the trellis; but if not, young 
plants bought from a nursery will answer. The 
tops should be pinched several times the first 
year after they are planted in order to induce 
them to produce plenty of strong side shoots. 

Where borders can be used they are better 
than boxes, which are often objected to, as being 
unsightly in a well-kept conservatory. In 
making the border it should be 2 £ feet deep and 
2 feet wide. In the bottom should be placed 
broken bricks 12 inches deep, and these should 
be covered with some rough material. Then fill 
up with the same compost as that used for boxes, 
only a little rotten manure may be used and a 
less quantity of sand. When well cared for the 
plants will soon reach the height of 20 feet to 
30 feet, and will be a grand sight when in full 
flower. I saw' several plants some time ago 
about 25 feet high growing upon pillars, one of 
the grandest floral sights anyone could wish to 
see. Moreover, bushels of cut flavors can be cut 
during the seas<™ foriVdtaae W. C. 


WINTER-BLOOMING PLANTS. 

Any one wishing to have a display of bloom 
from November onwards, will find nothing better 
than Cyclamens and Primulas, which alone 
would suffice to create a brave show at that time. 
Cyclamens especially, ranging as they do from 
pure white to crimson, anti flowering con¬ 
tinuously for a period of quite four months, are 
unsurpassed as winter-flowering subjects. The 
same may be said of Primulas, but to have these 
as well as Cyclamens well in bloom by Christmas, 
they should now be getting established in 2 £- 
inch pots, so that they may be ready for their 
blooming pots by the beginning of July. Cine¬ 
rarias may also be had in bloom early in the 
year, but the seed would have to be sown in 
March, or they will not flower till spring. The I 
season being so far advanced, strong young 
plants should be procured at once of the above 
and grow them along freely. Paris Daisies, both 
white and yellow-flowered, bloom all the w inter, 
and they may be grown out-of-doors all the 
summer; and there is also what has been very 
recently named the blue Marguerite (Agathea 
ccelestis), a plant which produces a pretty con¬ 
trast in the way of colour. I would also include 
a dozen or so of winter-flowering Pelargoniums, 
such as Vesuvius and its white and crimson 
varieties, Guillan Mangilli, West Brighton Gem, 
Eureka, Lady Sheffield, A. Henderson, and 
Titania. The principal point with these plants is 
to grow them in full exposure to sun all the 
summer, not allowing them to bloom until late 
in the autumn, so that their energies may be 
concentrated upon a winter display. I very 
6 trocgly recommend Echeveria retusa, one of the 
most easily grown of winter bloomers, and then 
there are Bouvardias and Begonias, both very 
useful and showy when well grown. The latter 
should be grown along freely under glass all the 
summer, so that they may form bushy, well- 
established specimens in 4£-inch pots by autumn. 
Good kinds consist of nitida, Ingrami, sernper- 
florens rosea, insignis, Saundersoni. borne kinds 
of Heliotrope flower all the winter, the new 
variety, White Lady, being highly recommended, 
and Mignonette sown in August and early in 
September comes well into flower in gentle 
warmth at that time. To the above plants the 
word forcing scarcely applies; they should be 
simply kept moving in a temperature of 55° by 
day, and 50° by night, giving air on all favourable 
occasions. Of other plants which bloom in 
winter or rather early in spring may be mentioned 
some of the Spiraeas, especially S. japonica. C. 


PoInBettias. —Old plants cut back and 
repotted should now r be put into pits or frames 
where they can be kept close to the glass, so as 
to prevent them becoming drawn. Any pits or 
frames from which early Botatoes have been 
cleared may bo utilised in this way, lowering the 
material as the plants progress in height, so as 
to just keep the tops clear of the glass. Keep 
them well watered at the root, and shut up with 
a good steamy heat, the result of damping all 
the surfaces of the pit just before closing-up 
time—the best antidote for red spider. Cuttings 
or eyes of the old wood put in some time ago 
will now be rooted and may be potted in 3-inch 
pots, and grown on in frames like the older 
plants, except that they may be kept much more 
dwarf. Such plants are invaluable for vases. 
Old plants from which the crowns can be spared 
may now be utilised for cuttings ; they may be 
kept very dwarf, and for such purposes as table 
decoration, when largo heads of flower in very 
small pots are required, they will be found 
extremely useful. M. 

Propagating Gloxinias. — So much 
variety may be obtained from a pinch of seed, i 
that many prefer propagating these beautiful 
plants in that way; but where it is desired to 
increase individual kinds, it may now be readily 
done by means of cuttings made of the leaves, 
and if grown on freely they will form tubers 
before winter. Take the leaves wherever they 
can be removed without disfiguring the plant, 
retaining as much of the leaf-stalk as possible, 
and dibble them in as cuttings in well-drained 
pots of sandy soil, inserting them at a sufficient 
depth to just cover the base of the leaf, which 
with the buried stalk will suffice to retain the 
leaf in position. Three or four may be placed 
around the edge of a pot, and when watered 
prior to putting them in a case see that they do 
not overbalance and drop out. If such appears 


likely to happen secure them with a few lithe 
sticks. After watering place them in a close 
case in a temperature of from 70° to 80 s , when 
they will roon root and push up, but if rather 
slow in so doing a little bottom-heat will greatly 
assist them after the first danger from daxnphg 
is past. When rooted give air by degrees, 
off, and treat them as older plants. Tydxa* 
may be propagated at. the present time by mcar> 
of cuttings ma le of the shoots in the usual wav. 
As they do not like their roots disturbed more 
than is necessary, the better way is to insert 
each cutting singly in a small pot, putting a few 
crocks, broken charcoal, or fibrous peat in il* 
bottom by way of drainage, and filling up with 
light, sandy soil. Remove the two bottom 
leaves and put in the cutting, so that, the base 
of the two above just touches the surface of the 
soil; then treat them as recommended in the 
case of Gloxinias, when they will soon root 
After that they should be grown on freely, in 
order to obtain conns of sufficient strength to 
survive the winter.—R. M. 

Pleroma elegans.— This bears lovely, 
large, violet-coloured blossoms, unapproached 
by any flower of a like colour. It is easily 
managed, requiring only to be turned out-of- 
doors from about the middle of July to the end 
of August, so as to ripen its wood. It attains a 
considerable size, but is best for general tw 
when in a small or medium state; it bloom* 
freely, and will flower in 8-inch or 9-inch potn 
It succeeds in peat or loam, but I prefer tb? 
latter. All that is required is to see that the 
shoots are frequently stopped from the time the 
cuttings are well rooted until the plants hsu 
attained a bushy condition ; by this means half- 
a-doijen sticks will give all the support which» 
good sized plant requires. Cuttings made froa 
the young shoots as soon after this time as 
wood has attained a little solidity will strike is 
three weeks. It blooms from the young growtii 
in July, August, or September, according to th» 
way in which it is treated as regards warmth ii 
spring. Half-a-dozen of its half-open flowers, wcO 
placed in a bouquet, give an effect that notbw 
else I have ever seen used does. It likes a littl? 
shade in summer, as, if it is fully exposed loth# 
suu, its leaves turn red, and do not last the 
full time. 

Cassia corymbosa- Although this w 
seen to the best advantage when planted out ard 
covering a wall such as the back of ag?e«- 
house or conservatory, yet, as generally gr:-wx 
in a pot, it looks well and yields a successionof 
its bright yellow flo vers which come in dnriri 
the summer and autumn. If kept repeatedly 
stopped, so as to induce the formation of pier.'' 
of shoots near the b ise, it will need no stick*. 
Cuttings of it should be put in about this tires 
if they cun be had :» inches or 4 inches long; 
they ought to be taken off with a heel ami 
treated in the us 11*1 way. 

Training Chrysanthemums. — Tte 
Chrysanthemum is such a beautiful flower, and 
comes into bloom at a season when flowers axe 
so welcome, that no apology need be made bf 
me, in attempting to supply information ’■> 
amateurs who, like myself, wish to obtain * 
really good specimen next November and Decem¬ 
ber. I now pot my good strong plants in the 
full sized pots in which they are to flower, tisin? 
rich loam with ample drainage, and a strata® of 
half-rotten cow manure. I do not quite fills? 
the pot, thus leaving room for top-dressinp 
Autumn, and supplying liquid manure. &>*♦ 
around each pot, I force in six or eight stick* 
(inside the pot), each stick being about J 8 inefet* 
long, and so forming a circle of sticks, to which 
I train the stems of my plants in a spin! 
direction: the tieing and training is troublesome, 
as it must be attended to from time to time 
from June to November, but the result will oe 
dwarf bushy plants, with ample foliage down » 
the very edge of the pots, as the naked portion 
of the stem, when trained spirally, will be bidden 
bv the branch or stem which comes immediately 
ab^ve it. The naked portion of the several 
branches will be close down to the edge of tie 
pot by November if properly tied down fro® 
time to time between May and the flowering 
season.—J. Weaver. 

Double Petunias.—A box or l.looms of donW« 
Petunias from Mr. Bedell, The Nur«criea, Wallind*' 1 * 
They are flue iu colour, Eomo being of the deepest purplt, 
approaching crimson ; others magenti, rose, aaa P™* 
whit*. Many have Hiked edges, and arc beantinui) 
Ttnpl , W1 1 1 Vl lfc. # - ,| TV , J nl 



Fuse 1G, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


17j 


PLANTS FOR GREENHOUSES. 

•Si)2 and H834.—Both these questions may be 
•wered together, as the requirements in each 
c are of a similar nature. To the large class 
amateurs who put up greenhouses, having 
Ic or no previous experience, there is the 
sat temptation to wish at once to grow every 
id of plant which happens to take their fancy, 
thout considering whether they have sufficient 
perience and knowledge, together with the 
edful accommodation, to arrive at results 
rth the labour. Beginners would be wise to 
ike a commencement with plants easily grown, 
d which would at the same time give a pleasing 
uilt. Instead of buying a great variety of 
ids, there would also be wisdom in confining 
; selection to a few, and when these do well, 
d the knowledge of the grower extends, other 
ids may be gradually added. The most use- 
I thing which any amateur can have is a good 
ection of the best varieties of Geraniums; 
me of the newer kinds have such large blooms 
d trusses, and such beautiful shades of colour, 
it no one need have a greenhouse lacking in 
ightDess if they use these freely. “ A Begin- 
r ' r would be wise to buy a few of the very 
st of Pearson's, Denny’s, and other recently 
it out kinds, but buy only the best; they are 
•derate in price, and it will not be necessary 
buy fresh varieties for some time. Eureka 
I White Vesuvius, whites; Constance and 
pros, pinks ; Fanny Catlin and Laura Strachan, 
mons; Hettie, Lumen, Metis, and Mrs. J. 
rdon, of various shades of crimson or purple; 
m Bowling. W. B. ^Filler, and Sunbeam, 
.rlets; Mrs. Moore,white,with a coloured centre; 
oert Grevy, magenta ; Henry Jacoby, very dark, 
h crimson; and Dr. Orton, of a similar 
idc but larger bloom, are far from including all 
.» best, but these should be a good beginning 
anyone. To these should be added several 
nts of the common Vesuvius ; if they are kept 
arf and busby they are most useful in winter 
i spring, and are the best for cut flowers, as 
trusses are numerous, and not so large as those 
ned before. With a little management, these 
1 flower all the year round, and with less 
uble than any other class of plants. Some 
ible Geraniums should be included, as the 
vers last much longer in the hottest weather 
■.utnmer than the single ones : Henri Beurier, 
ht salmon ; Jules Simon and Croesus, pink; 
dame Raoul Guerin, Marie Lemoine, Madame 
ibaut, Littre.Mons. P. Jaud, of darker shades; M. 
lein Louvargie, very pretty ; Roi de Violets, II. 
nnell, C. Darwin, La Quintine,still darker, and 
V. liaspail, scarlet; together with Wonderful, 
emi-double Vesuvius, are all useful kinds. If 
nts are bought at once and put into 4;} inch or 
nch pots, and kept in a cold frame until the 
•enhouse is ready, the quantity of bloom in 
turnn will make the greenhouse quite bright, 
d if the plants get plenty of sun, and are not 
t into too large pots, they will give a consider- 
le quantity of flowers through the winter if a 
Merate heat is kept up, together with plenty of 
ntilation. If the Geraniums are thoroughly 
>ened by September, it does not require so 
uch heat as many think to keep up a fair 
antity of Geranium bloom. When a green- 
use is established, a few cuttings should be 
t in occasionally to come into flower at 
fferent seasons; the older plants can be cut 
,wn whenever they go out of bloom, and new 
*>d with fresh buds will soon appear. In 
oition to Geraniums, a few kinds of plants 
uuld be added which, without any forcing, 
mc into flower in early spring, such as Deutzia 
acilis, white; Cytisus fragrans, yellow, a 
°*t beautiful and easily grown plant; and 
diaps one of the dwarfest Acacias. A few 
unese Primroses should be raised from seed 
a dy: these keep in bloom for three or four 
ontlu during winter and spring, but they have 
rt umch appearance if Geraniums are in flower 
the time. Amateurs and those who object to 
r ^u fly should avoid Cinerarias and herbaceous 
dflolarias, both very beautiful plants.but very 
! *< ult to keep clean in a greenhouse with any 
1 Admirers of Fuchsias, Petunias, &c., may 
’elude a few of these, but they will not give 
- ! h an amount of bloom for the room occupied 
1 *°nie of those already mentioned. Tuberous- 
,olwl begonias are suitable plants, as they are 
T .y showy and easily managed, and really good 
iri «fi€scan be had at moderate prices; the, 
?T ar e bulbs raised from well selected see<i 
r the roof of the greenhoi^gj^/p re. Aw 


things can be planted than a Tacsonia; if a hardy 
kind such as insignis is selected, it will cover 
the roof in a year, and the bright crimson flowers 
will last from April until winter; it should 
be planted out in a border below the stage. 

The greenhouse should be placed in the sun¬ 
niest situation possible, and when this can be 
done it will be necessary to apply some shading 
material during summer to keep off the hottest 
sun; a very simple plan is to whiten the outside 
of the roof with whiting, to which a little size 
or very thin glue is added, or even sour milk or 
buttermilk can be used; in the autumn this 
must be removed. In such a house. Ferns would 
not find congenial quarters, they prefer more 
shade and moisture in the air than is desirable 
where winter bloom is required. For spring 
flowers, a few bulbs can be added, but if the 
Geraniums receive the attention which they 
deserve, nothing else will give the same amount 
of bloom of such brilliant and pleasing colours 
and with so little attention. A few shillings 
would stock a small greenhouse if done in this 
way. M. A. 


THE NEW PARCELS POST. 


We have received the following circular from 
the Postmaster-General, which is very' impor¬ 
tant to our advertiseis ami general readers : 

“ The inland parcels post being appointed to 
commence on the first of August next, the post¬ 
master-general desires to call attention to the 
circumstance that the arrangements for bringing 
it into operation will be greatly facilitated, and 
the risk of delay in the transmission of parcels 
largely" obviated, if senders of parcels in large 
quantities (whether it be the intention to post 
the parcels daily or at regular or irregular inter¬ 
vals) will so far as possible notify their inten¬ 
tions to the nearest postmaster, or sub-post¬ 
master, as early as convenient in the month of 
June. It is not essential that the number and 
weight of the parcels, and the frequency of 
posting should be specified with absolute pre¬ 
cision ; it will be sufficient if a general idea can 
be given, so that some provision over and above 
the ordinary means available may be arranged 
for in advance of the date fixed for the com¬ 
mencement of the post. Parcels will be accepted 
for transmission by the inland parcels post 
under the following general conditions in regard 
to weights, dimensions, and rates of postage, 
viz.:— 


Weights and Postage. 


For an Inland Postal Parcel 
of a weight of 


Not exceeding lib... 

Exceeding 1 lb. and not exceeding 3 lbs. 
,, 3 lbs. ,, „ 5 lbs. 

„ 6 lbs. ,, ,, 7 lbs. 


The rate of 
postage to bo 
prepaid in ordi¬ 
nary postage 
stumps will be 


3d. 
6d. 
9d. 
Is. od. 


Dimensions. 

The dimensions allowed for an inland postal 
parcel will be— 

Maximum length . 3 ft. 6 in. 

Maximum length and girth combined G ft. 

Examples:—A parcel measuring 3 feet 6 
inches in its longest dimensions may' measure 
as much as 2 feet G inches in girth, i e. t around 
its thickest part; or 

A shorter parcel may be thicker; eg., if 
measuring no more than 3 feet in length, it may 
measure as much as 3 feet in girth, i.e., around 
its thickest part. 


FOOD REFORM. 

Thirty years ago the question of good food 
from vegetable versus animal kingdom was dis¬ 
cussed, but not tried, so far as restaurants or 
eating houses were concerned. It is not so now. 
There are several places in the city of London 
where a good beginning has been made, and 
which are succeeding as investments. Interested 
in the experiment, we called recently to see one 
of these establishments, that of Mr. Robert 
Read, Jewin Street, E.C., and were gratified at 
what we saw. The large dining room was nearly 
filled with diners, and Mr. Read told us he, on 
an average, provided dinners for 800 persons 
each day ! — a very remarkable result, consider¬ 
ing the population to be catered for—brought up 
for the most part in the belief that animal food 
is-^lie essential commodity" in all good living, 
have always considered that the vegetarians 


did not often know the strength of their own 
case; it is only when the good gardener’s know¬ 
ledge is added to that of the cook’s who gives her 
best attention to the subject, that the public will 
really be able to judge of the merits of each side 
of the question. Nowadays the vegetables in most 
restaurants, and private houses even, are often 
left to some careless and untaught young person 
who spoils them. As the owner of this restaurant 
remarked, “ We are only making a beginning,” 
it is well to note that even this beginning is a 
distinct commercial success. We would like to 
see a good restaurant of the kind in every 
parish in London. We believe that before an¬ 
other dozen years elapse houses of this descrip¬ 
tion will compete in our cities with the butchers’ 
meat houses. The change will be good in various 
ways, not the least so in varying and adding to 
the fare of flesh houses, now monotonous indeed. 
We subjoin the bill of fare for the 17th March of 
the Garden Restaurant” dinner:— 


soul's. 

Hail cot 

Vegetable broth 

SAVOURIES. 
Haricot pie 
Onion omelette 
Irish stow 
Lentil fritter 

OTHER IHS1IES. 

M acaroni 
Split Lentils 
Haricots 
Rice 
Bread 

VEGETABLES. 

Teas 

Turnip tops 
Spring Cabbage 
Tomatoes 
Mashed Potatoes 
Cress 


WARM DESSERT. 
Apple-Cranberry tart ami 
custard sauce 
Lemon pudding 
Tapioca pudding 
C'ocounut bread 

COLD DESSERT. 

Rice and Apricot Jam 
Rice and Raspberry jam 
Rice and Gooseberry jam 
Rice and fruit 
Custard sauce ami fruit 
Stewed French Plums 
Stewed Gooseberries 
Stewed Apricots 
Stewed Apples 
Stewed Rhurnrb 
Blancmange 

FRUITS. 

Muscatels and Almonds 

Grapes 

Figs 

Apples 

Oranges or Lemons 


But the vegetarians must not make the mis¬ 
take of supposing that all their own things are 
good. In the numerous range of material be¬ 
longing to the vegetable kingdom, there are 
many things not by any means good for food, 
and some of these are in common use. The ordi¬ 
nary jams of commerce, the sweets, the hot 
cakes, the ordinary bread, unfortunately, are 
more effective in the production of illness and 
dyspepsia than fresh meat can ever be. Some 
fruits and some vegetables are by" no means 
among the most wholesome of food. It is neces¬ 
sary to select here* care fully. The position was 
well summed up by rdr William Jenner when be 
said, with reference to the food of a patient ill 
with liver disease, “ 1 \frould prefer your having a 
pound of beefsteak to a spoonful of jam ! ” 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


Cropping Cucumbers.-l havo a hothouae heated 
by a flue, and I havo tweimy Cucumber plants in it. which 
are throwing from three to five fruits at each joint. 
Would it be wise to let them Jill grow, or only let one 
grow at each joint. Ilia plants are strong and healthy. 
—W. H. [Two fruitx to each feint would be ample, and 
if yon want to ketp th■■ plants healthy and fruitful for 
any length of time, one to a joint only 'must be left.] 

Spring Onions. — My spring-sown Onions have 
entirely failed. Would it be advisable to procure young 
ones and plant them out ? If not. kindly give beat advice 
in the circumstances.—E. H. II [If you can procure young 
plants do so, atid plant them in well manured land .J 

Tropseolum — J. M.— Probably you refer to Tro- 
pa*olum specio8Um. It can be got at most nurseries, and 
it has been frequently advertised in our columns. 

L. W. T*.—From such a scrap of the Vine os that sent 
we can form no opinion as to what is the matter with it. 

- Geo. Robinsim.— Continue the damping during warm 

w'eather till the berries begin to colour. Then damp only 

when the ventilators are open.- S. Jf.—Your question 

is rather out of our province, but we think legally you 
must leave the copper. You had bolter get the advice of 
a lawyer.-— Jtobt. Wilson.— Have the plants been watered 
with any powerful liquid nmimro? The shoots look as 
though they had died from some such cause.- Har¬ 

man.—Cold draughts through the house will cause the 
rust. So will handling tlio berries when thinning them. 

Names of plants — W.B.— Cotoneaster Simon*!.- 

II. S.—Abutilon vexillarium variegntum.- M. Robin¬ 

son.— Double white flower, Rnxifraga grannlata fl -pi.; 
other, S. hypnoides ; White Lily, Antliprienm Hllastrum : 
crimson flower, Gonin coccineum. Kindly number any 

other specimens you send.- Kibe.— Rillardicra scan- 

dens.- Vinca. — Metraria coccinea. - Santglas .—1, 

Justicin speciosa; *2, Kalosanthos coccinea: C, Cuphca 
h! rigillo&a : 7. Acacia nnnata ; 8, Coronilla glaum Our 

limit is four at one time.- L. Q. R —bougainvillea 

glabra.-IF. II. Thorpe .—1, Spifini callosa ; 2, Copros- 

ma liiiueri&na variegata.- E. M. Beeley. — Diplacus 

glutinosug, not quite hardy.- ll H". G. -Sparaxis 

grandiflora.- C. E. F.— ApparentlySaxifrigahypnoidea. 

- J. H. Ji,— 1, Psxifraga granulate tl.-pl ; 2, Llmnan 

thes DouglasL- Llelston.— I, too much withered, please 

send again : 2, Diplncun glutinosiis.- Mrs. K., Bridpor* 




176 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[June 16, 188! 


—Asphodelus albus.- A. Boyle.—We do not name 

varieties of Finks.- K. A. Spurrell. -We received 

letter, but no flowers.- L. B.— No enclosure. 


QUERIES. 

Rules for Correspondents.— AU communica¬ 
tions for insertion should he clearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the Publisher. The name 
and address of the sender is required , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the Query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece qf paper. Owinq to the necessity qf 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 


inch long. I shall be glad if anyone can give me advice 
as to how I can destroy these pests without injuring the 
plants.—G B. 

PSSO. Boses falling —I have some Roses, Glolre de 
Dijon and Moss, also some more common ones, but I do 
not succeed with them. The soil is light, and they have 
had a good supply of manure, but the leaves soon after 
forming shrivel up and die, which I cannot account for, 
as I can And no Insects. I shall be very glad of advice. 
I reside in the south of Ireland.—A mateur. 


answered. When more than one. query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece qf paper. Owinq to the necessity qf 
GARDENING going to press a considerable time before the 
day qf publication , it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

9873. — Grubs in garden soil.— This is my second 
year in my present garden. Before I entered into posses¬ 
sion it had been neglected. I manured It well with old 
manure, but was disappointed with many favourites I 
had grown successfully before. This spring I commenced 
again. Having dug and manured well in autumn, all my 
bulbs did well, but now and then I found a handsome 
Tulip eaten through at the surface of the ground, and 
could not account for it, for I hunted slugs incessantly. 

I had some fine Asters after this, under glass; they 
became thinner daily, and I was puzzled. One day I had 
examined them and all was right, but in a few minutes 
there was one nipped off close to the ground ; as no slug 
could be blamed for this, I began with a pointed stick to 
hunt for my enemy. Knowing that It could not be far 
off, I soon dislodged an unsightly black grub about an 
inch in length and a quarter-inch in diameter. Since 
then, after planting out, whenever I have seen a plant 
nipped off in this way, I have turned up the soil in the 
same way, and have never failed to And this grub. He 
is a stranger to me, though an old amateur. Can some- 
one help me ?—G. B. 

9874. —Roses dying back.—Last October I put in 
a Glolre de Dijon Rose tree, and in April aVietorVerdier ; 
thev were apparently strong and healthy, about 3 feet 
high, and had been previouriy cutback at the nursery, held 
their own, and seemed to be doing well, till about March. 
They then began to die back at all the tops, some have 
gone entirely, others down to the new shoots, but these 
droop, and in a few days follow buds and leaf. Situation 
Is at Clifton, garden facing sonth and west, protected 
from east by a new high wall against which they are 
planted. It is draughty only during a north wind, which 
blows down by the side of the house. Soil old garden 
mould, lately dug about 2 feet deep, lying on 2 feet of 
loose red clay, ana under that loose limestone. I mulched 
them well all through the w inter, then took off 6 inches 
and gave some manure from garden w.c. about a foot off 
the stems. Thinking this may have been too strong, I 
took it off again lest week Will Borne practical reader 
kindly tell me what is wrong ? —Exon. 

9875. —Grubs and bedding plants.— About three 
weeks ago I putin my bedding plants. The front row in 
one border was planted with strong little seedling Lobe¬ 
lias ; next row Tagetes, but every morning I found about 
half a dozen drooping or dead. At last, after planting 
fresh oneB in their places day after day, I carefully ex¬ 
amined round each plant, and in every case found a brown 
grub about an inch long, lying about an inch away from 
the root— very often there were two and three of these 
pests about the roots. I also found they had barked my 
Geraniums, and on looking, there they were round the 
roots of them. They lie under the turf, and they are 
all over my garden, which is not a small one. They are 
at the roots of almost everything. I tried the remedy 
“ J. A. M.” recommended in No. 220 to destroy Blugs, 
but It did not kill them, though in eight hour6 after trying 
the experiment they seemed rather Btupifled. We have 
killed hundreds, hut they are not all stamped out yet. 
What can I do 7—M. W. 

9876. —Mildew on Vines. —I have a lean-to vinery, 
30 feet by 12 feet, the front wall of which is built on 
arches, and the Vines are planted on the inside border. 
The glazing is done without putty, consequently there is a 
drip at the bottom part of the span all along the base of the 
Vines when it rains. Although the border is well drained, 
the drip keeps the roots cold In winter. The Vines 
have been planted four years, and this year are carrying 
a good crop of Grapes about the size of Peas, but they 
are badly affected with mildew. It first appeared on the 
leaves, to which I used lime and sulphur water, which 
seemed to stop it, but it has since appeared on the berries 
quite white. I have applied the same remedy, also 
Elder water, but without effect. Could any reader kindly 
assist me in the matter ?—One in Trouble. 

9877. —Splreeas failing.—Will any reader kindly tell 
me how to grow Spinca japonica? I took mine up from 
the open ground in November and potted them in good 
rich loam, with part sand, and then plunged them in 
ashes till they began to grow. After which I placed them 
in a cool greenhouse from which frost is only just ex¬ 
cluded. They are ou a stage in full sun all day, and have 
plenty of water with Baucers under them, and although for 
a time they looked very healthy with plenty of large flower 
spikes, before the flowers expanded the foliage turned 
brown at the tips and the leaves dropped off, which 
quite spoiled them. How can I keep the foliage good as 
long as the flowers last ?—H. W. 

9878. — SowiDg seeds of Conifers. — Having re¬ 
ceived a Bmall consignment of seeds of some various 
Conifers from Japan, I should be glad if someone would 
kindly give me instructions as to the best method of 
planting them. I should like to know whether it would be 
best to sow in seed-pans in a hothouse, or in beds of 
light soil in the open air, or if they would do sown in 
seed-pans and the pans placed in a cold frame ? Particu¬ 
lars as to the best soil to sow them in would also be 
usefuL—A. H. C. 

9879. —Gruba In Pansies.—I have a bed of fancy 
Pansies, good sorts. They have done well until lately, 
and now I find dally three or four drooping, and in a 
couple of days they are dead. On looking for the cause, 
1 find at ths foot of each a tWek leathery grub about an 


couple of days they are dead. On looki 
I And at tha »ot of^a^i a je^tfce 


9881. —Plants for graves.—Will someone kindly 
give me an idea as to what flowers I can plant on a grave, 
so as to have some kind of blossom all the year round. 
Th^re are .Snowdrops already and some Ivy, but it is 
difflcult to find plants hardy enough for outdoor culture 
in County Down, and I am very anxious to have it pretty 
and nicely kept.—S. J. 

9882. — Scarlet Honeysuckle.— After reading “ A. 
D.’s" article in Gardening, 1 have been induced to pro¬ 
cure two young plants of the above climber for training 
up the wall in my greenhouse. Would “ A. D." kindly 
instruct me as to their future treatment? They are 
at present about 3 feet high, and in 3-inch pots. 1 want 
them to cover the wall as much as possible.—W. R. W. 

9883. —Maggots on Holly leaves.—I am much 
troubled with a blight on ray Holly trees, and shall feel 
obliged if someone will give me any Information about it. 
and the best means of dealing with it. It has destroyed 
one large tree, and has attacked many others, nearly every 
leaf being Infested with the insects.— E. J. Penrose. 

9884 - Propagating Indiarubber plants.—Will 
some reader kindly inform me how the Indiarubber 
plant (Ficus elasticus) is propagated, and if by cuttings, 
when should the cuttings be taken, and in what soil 


heat is required?— May. | 

9885. —Rose leaver curling.—I have some fine Rose 
trees in potB in a small greenhouse, and the leaves are I 
all curling up, and then they die. I have used Fir-tree < 
oil, as recommended, to wash with, but they do not im¬ 
prove. Can any reader tell me what 1 must do ?—Birk- 
DALE. 

9886. —Perennials for borders.—Will some reader 
give me the names of & few Perennials for a border on 
both sides of a carriage drive? There are a great 
number of trees on the south side, and theii branches 
extend to the centre of the drive, covering one of the 1 
borders.—FARRANTY. 

9587. —Making a Mushroom bed. — Will some 
reader of Gardening oblige with the method for making 
a Mushroom bed. and aUo inform me how often watering 
is necessary and now long after depositing the spawn the 
crop appears?—G. H. 

9588. —Spring bulbs after flowering.—May the 
greater part of the foliage of spi ing bulbs be cut off a 
week or two after they have done flowering, or would it 
weaken the bulbs for next year’s flowering?—M. R., 
Bridport. 

9589. —Treatment of Citrons.—My large Citron 
trees have had very floe fruits on them for some months. 
Should they be gathered now and the trees cut back, 
and what other treatment do they now require?—M. F. 

9890. —Preeerving the colour of flowers.—Is 

there any preparation for preserving the natural colour 
of flowers freshly cut, and dried in blotting-paper?— 
C. L. J. # 

9891. — Aponogeton dietachyon. — will some 
reader kindly give details fs to the cultivation of Apo- 
nogeton dlstachyon, and say where it can be purchased ? 
—M. R., Bridport. 

9892. —Aphides.—How can I get rid of aphides? I 
have syringed them with soft soap. Shall I harm the 
bushes by cutting off the young shoots, which are com¬ 
pletely covered ?—M. R., Bridport. 

9893. —Rose show.—Will some reader state where 
the principal Rose show in the neighbourhood of Birming¬ 
ham is held, and the date ?— Sam. 

9894. —Forming Holly hedges.—Would someone 
tell me how to make a Holly hedge, the time and manner 
of planting, and number of plants per yard ?—N. M. 

9895. —Protecting Auriculas.—Is there any means 
by which I can safely protect my Auriculas during 
winter without a cold frame ?—Dutchman. 


BIRDS. 

Management of parrots. — When “ J. 
S. R.” says “ give your parrot food and drink as 
near to nature as possible,” he gives excellent 
advice; but when he goes on to recommend 
butter, milk, meat, bones, and even rice pudding, 
he displays such complete ignorance of the 
nature of the parrot, that I was fairly astounded 
on reading his remarks. These birds, as a 
rule, are gramnivorous and frugivorous ; and to 
give them animal fQod is so utterly unnatural, 
that grave mischief must, sooner or later, result 
from the practice. It is true that some of the 
family, the lories especially, are partially in¬ 
sectivorous, but there are no carnivorous parrot3 
in nature, for the tales about the meat-eating 
and lamb-killing propensities of the Nestor 
notabilis are, in my opinion, altogether incre¬ 
dible, and moreover, without anatom of evidence 
to support them. The kakas at the “ Zoo ” 
never appeared to touch the flesh that used to 
be given to them, and I think the practice of 
offering them meat has been discontinued, at 
least the last time I was in the parrot house I 
saw none in their cages. Parrots drink, and 
, drink freely, but water, not milk, is the fluid 
that is suitable for them. Where would a parrot 


in its natural state find milk to drink ? 

44 J. 8 . R.” ponder that question.—W. T. Gree 
F.Z.S. 

Treatment of parrots. — In reply 

“ Lycopodium,” about the treatment of yw 
parrots—Never mind what people say abo 
cruelty. Do not give it any water, Rule* 
little drink in a spoon once or twice & day, a: 
not that till better. Let it have (in a spoon) •. 
much port wine as it will drink every three t 
four hours, or oftener if very ill, soaked b;-. 
to eat night and morning, squeezed rather dr 
and any corn, nuts (especially Brazilian), si 
red pepper pods that it will eat. Keep it war: 
and quiet. It will probably refuse the p: 
wine as soon as it is better.—H. B. 

Finches in aviary.— I see “ Ornithology* 
in answer to “ Siskin,” 6ays that he cannot kw 
brambleflnches, chaffinches, or yellow hanuaa 
in an aviary with other birds. I difler he 
him, as I have done bo for years. The bi-: 
named must be reared from the nest or takeri 
branchers. I had a chaffinch which mated ~ 
a canary, and the mules were exceedis; 
pretty. I had a bramblefinch for three year? : : 
a cock and hen yellow hammer (the cock har . 
died, four years old) bo tame that they fed fr 
my hand. I have a drawing-room aviary, ir 
which I never put a wild bird. I always ta 
them first. The only utterly unmanageable: 

I ever had was a butcher bird, tame ewsf 
when by himself, but a veritable eieczd:? 
when put into the aviary.—A Bird Loyee \ 

Aviair in greenhouse.— My expert 
is that birds do not thrive under glass, via < 
the variations of temperature are necessacji 
great as to prove most injurious to them , 
however, “ C. S.” is wishful to try the eiperisHL 
the portion of the greenhouse where bis Is* 
are to be kept (I was about to write live) a* 
be covered over with boards and matting. Tj 
few birds can be kept in a confined spaced; 
plants without completely destroying the p&B 
in a short time.—W. T. Greene, F.Z S. 

Food for thrushes, &o.—Wbatii* 

best food for young thrushes ? If they 
in a cage as soon as they can fly, will them 1 * 
feed them ? Ought I to feed them also? I 
had three die out of five. I should libh 
same question answered in regard to blacks)? 
and linnets. Which is the best plan of raM 
them ? My goldfinch has a bare head—ttois 
the best thing to do to it? Do liDnets dig*- 4 
sweetly as canaries ? What ought I togivecan^ ; 
when moulting, and will plenty of gioosk. 
hurt them ?—D. E. N. 

Food for canaries —A nice soft foolfw 
young canaries, and also old ones when breeds?- 
in addition to their ordinary seed and 
meat, is aerated whole meal cakes sobered 
a little cold water, or, if the birds are defies!?, 
a little fresh milk or sherry wine. I consider e? 
above very wholesome, and it is little trouts to 
prepare. A little cayenne pepper may be 
with advantage.—H. J. D. 

Food for cockatoos. — Can any rentai**® 
me what is the proper food for a white to «**■<’, 

I feed mine on hemp seed principally, crushed bal- ■ 
occasionally bread and milk, but he seems not to J* * * 
healthy condition, is in a continual state of mesh 
though he has plenty to eat, yet remains very thin. I*-*- 
be much obliged for any information as to thep ro f*'7\)' 
ment of these birds, and whether or not they ihoold ■«* 
bath. The bird has clean water every day, often I* * 
day.—W. C. G. 

Qualls in outdoor aviary.— Quails will ncA bW 
harm to the other birds, but unless they are T * r f u ™?: 
will injure their heads by banging themselves v- *' '- 
against the wires; for when startled they nev*- 
where they are going, but dash wildly about not ®- rr 
quently killing themselves.—W. T. Gres sx, 

Love birds — I have a pair of love birds, 
which has pecked its feathers from its nerk aim 
I have separated them, and should be glad to 
I can prevent this feather plucking in futait - 
Canonbury. 

Management of parrots.—Your “J 
doubt due to injudicious feeding. See reply to 
in Gardening lor May 5.—W. T. G. 

Japanese nightingale —The proper food f<* tl: ; r 
bird is the food prepared and sold in tins by I 

Bear Street, Leicester Square, London. w e M 
Chinese nightingale which sings beautifully, anu ue 
fed only on this, and half of a sweet orange aomettct’- 
F. L. F. 

-Feed on bread crumbs and grated carrot, ?'| u - 

parts, mixed lightly together, add a little lean co* 
meat chopped very* fine every other day, and give it t 
Bix meal worms a day. They scarcely ever 
would not live on an exclusive seed diet.-" - *• "■ , 

Fish for canaries —Yes, “ CorioUnoi ” Wj 
his canaries cuttle fish, as they are very fond OfiL *J, 
will d© them good.—J. Pr ARMAN. Suiten : 



Juke 16, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


177 


arrot with fits.—No doubt the fits are occa- 
led by injudicious treatment. You should buy some 
in book treating on these birds, ruch as “The Ama- 
r s Aviary ol foreign Birds.” Any bookseller will get 
or you.—W. T. G. 

>ea sand in cages.—Ia sea sand beneficial or in- 
ions to canaries, should it be washed to remove the 
t or not? Is a lump of sugar kept continually in the 
e injurious to the birds?—S wahska. 

breeding mules.—Can anyone give me information 
pectins tne breeding of muleB ? I have a cock gold- 
:h ana hen canary. Is it now too late in the season 
them to breed?—J. E. B. 


AQUARIA. 


GOLDFISH. 

i c following is the way I have kept four small 
id fish alive and well for nearly two years, 
^ell-glass 10 inches in diameter is cemented 
th plaster of Paris into a wooden box, such as 
obtainable at the glass warehouses as a sup- 
rt to the bell-glasses sold for aquaria. An 
1 inary shallow iiower-pot pan has some plants 
Yaliisneria growing in it rooted in sand, with 
ne largish pebbles covering the surface of the 
id. This arrangement oE animal and vege- 
de life is placed on a table near a window, 
d goes on and prospers abundantly. The one 
giual plant of Vallisneria has sent outrunners, 
i filled the pan with young plants, and the 

i are tame, and rub their noses up and down 
: side of the gla^-s, on the look-out for the few 
mbs they have been accustomed to. If the 
ss would remain clear, there would be little 
•asion to disturb this happy state of things, 
: towards the end of a week in summer, or a 
tnight or more in winter, a greenness begins 
obscure the glass. Then I dip out sufficient 
ter to render the aquarium comfortably port- 
e (for it holds a good weight of water), carry 
o the water tap, lift out the Yaliisneria pan, 
it off most of the water, keeping a sharp 
k-out against the fish slipping out, usiDg 
i’s fingers as a strainer, and then pour the 
inant of water, fish and all, into a basin. A 
rch is then made for the domestic scrubbing- 
tsh, which, with some clean water, soon re- 
ves the slime from the glass. The glass has 
final rinse out, and is filled with fresh 
ter, the Yaliisneria pan is replaced after 
aoving old leaves and superfluous plants, 

1 the water is drained from the fish in the 
jin, and they are turned into their cleansed 
xle with as little handling as possible, and at 
2 e renew their look-out for crumbs. 

The Vallisneria grows very fast in the summer, 
iding out flower stalks a yard or more in 
igth, curiously adapted to varying depths of 
ter. The water I use is that supplied by the 
ter company. It is not so bard as London 
ter, and is pumped up from wells sunk in the 
idstone. As it comes very cold out of the 
uns I put a dash of boiling water from the 
ttle into it. I often make it quite warm, and 

2 fish seem to like it, and although in a sunny 
odow, what sun there was last summer did 
t injure them. They have not always been in 
e propagating glass, nor has their existence 
en one of uninterrupted serenity. They have 
en out on the carpet, owing to mistaken ideas as 
strength on the part of the manufacturer of 
ree successive fish globes, which cracked spon- 
oeouslv from being too thick, and caused a 
luge on attempt to move them. 

Always select thin, not thick, glass for fish 
obes. The crumbs I have referred to are small 
■llets of bread given occasionally; very little if 
iy more being given than they eat at the time, 
should fear contaminating the water by too 
uch bread. The scales of goldfish are easily 
locked off, and with them goes the metallic 
stre. I suppose the scales grow again, but I 

ii not sure. One of my fish somehow split his 
m-like tail, but the split rapidly closed up and 

was all right again by the end of a week, 
he propagating glass arrangement I have 
scribed will, accompanied with the Vallis- 
eria. be found a very elegant way of keeping 
oldfisb, the deep green and gold contrasting 
dutifully, and the plaster of Paris setting, 
F bere not covered by the flower-pot pan, reflects 
light from beneath and adds to the extreme 
nuty of these fish when viewed from the 
ri toior of the room, especially when the sun is 
lining through the glass. The fish I have are 
rorili the largest not exceeding 4 inches in 
and I have only four in number. If the 
‘nd in the Vallisneria pan is pot covered wiih 


pebbles or pieces of spar the fish rout the sand 
out and blow it about the bottom of the glass. 

W. R. 


Fungus on fish. —I have made a small 
fish pond, 5 feet 6 inches by 3 feet C inches by 
8 inches, in my garden, and a short time since 
stocked it with a few dace, carp, sticklebacks, 
&c. For a week or two the fish seemed very 
lively and healthy, but then I found one or two 
of them suffering from fungus. I immediately 
separated these from the rest, emptied the pond, 
washed it out well with Condy’s fluid, washed the 
stones, sand, &c., with the same stuff; then 
boiled these well, placed them in the pool again, 
refilled it, and put in the fish that were healthy, 
thinking I was rid of the fungus. But, alas ! my 
fish are dying daily of it now. Can any reader 
tell me what further I should do ? I may say that 
there is an iron pipe painted, and a brass tap in 
the pool, to supply it with fresh water. Can these 
have any deleterious effect on the fish ? The pool 
is built of bricks, covered with layers of Portland 
cement, and as 1 can keep the water always fresh, 
having an overflow pipe as well as the tap to run 
the fresh water in, and have several water plants 
growing in the pool, it would seem as if I had 
made every provision for keeping the fish healthy. 
I should be very glad to know if there is any 
other remedy than the one I have tried to rid the 
fish of this dreaded disease, and also if the disease 
is contagious, or if, necessarily, fatal.—R. S. 

Gold and silver fish.—I am desirous of 
getting a small glass of gold and silver fish. 
Will any of your readers kindly inform me as to 
the best kind and size of glass to purchase, and 
how many fish to stock it with; also what to 
feed them upon, and how often and when to 
change their water ? Do they require a sunny 
position, or is a sideboard position best?— 
P. A. C. 


RABBITS. 

Breeding rabbits.—*/. Manchester.— 
I have tried several breeds of rabbits, but find 
none so healthy and profitable as Belgian hares, 
Take care to have a buck between one year and 
two years old—never more than two and a half 
years—of entirely different blood to any of the 
does. In fact, I never keep a buck of my own 
breeding. I keep four does, and feed principally 
on green food, plenty of Wild Parsley now, and 
later on Hog-weed, Comfrey, and Cabbage— 
winter oats for dry food. The does have a little 
bran, but I do not think bran a cheap food. I 
am very careful in weaning the young ones at 
five weeks, to accustom them to green food by 
.degrees, always making sure they have a good 
breakfast of oats first; when fattening give 
barley. I never notice any smell in the house 
in which they are kept, as I always clean them 
out well once a week, and sprinkle the hutches 
well with ashes. I have only home-made hutches, 
with run of 5 feet frontage.— Hermsgate. 

Food for rabbita.— Will some reader kindly tell 
me if Peas, Potatoes, and Rhubarb leaves will hurt 
rabbita if given to them ?— Brink worth. 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 

Nettle beer. — Medicus. — Take a good 
quantity of Nettles and wash them thoroughly. 
Then pour three gallons of boiling water on 
them, and let them stand twenty-four hours. 
Then take about a gallon of the liquid and put 
it on the fire, with two ounces of bruised ginger, 
and three pounds of treacle, or very coarse 
sugar, and let it boil gently for about ten 
minutes. Strain the whole of the liquor through 
a sieve or straining cloth; mix the cold and hot 
together, and set it to work with about half a 
teacupful of yeast. Bottle next day.—A. H. 
C. W, Copt horne. 

Rhubarb jam. —Will you kindly repeat 
the recipe once given in Gardening by Mrs. 
Thwaites for making Rhubarb jam ? We tried 
it and found it excellent.—G. J. P. [2J pounds 
peeled Rhubarb cut in pieces 1 inch long. Put 
on a large flat dish and sprinkle 1 pound of sugar 
over; set away in a cool place to stand twelve 
hour?; pour off the liquid—there should be about a 
pint; put this into a preserving pan with 1 pound of 
sugar, a bit of common soda the size of a small 
Nut, and the seasoning, tied up in muslin (four 
Cloves and 1 inch Cinnamon stick, or three- 
arters of an ounce of whole giDger crushed a 


little); boil till you have a thick syrup covered 
with large bubbles, and you find, on rubbing it 
with a spoon on the side of the pan, it will grain. 
Take out seasoning, put in Rhubarb, boil gently 
twenty to thirty minutes; but as the time 
depends upon the shape of the pan, kind of 
sugar, &c., it is best to take up a little, cool it; 
if thick and clear, it is done. It should be pale 
green. Tie down at once with vegetable parch¬ 
ment. The best kind of sugar for the above and 
all other jams is the large-grained crystallised 
sugar known as centrifugal; it is dearer, but 
jam properly made with it always keeps, and 
three-quarters of a pound will go as far as one 
pound of another kind.— Isabella Thwaites ] 
Preserving eggs. —The following is an 
efficacious and simple way of preserving eggs: 
I have preserved, for more than ten years, over 
300 eggs yearly, and they keep in perfect pre¬ 
servation over twelve months, provided they are 
quite fresh when put in the solution, and the 
shells without any bruise. I take mine daily 
from the nest, and lay them in the solution at 
once, keeping them covered with the lime water 
till the jar is full. Take a lump of unslaked 
lime about as large as a mane fist, two handfuls 
of salt, and put them in a jar holding about one 
and a half gallons or two gallons. Pour over 
them two quarts of boiling water, let it cool, 
and fill up with cold water, stirring up well 
for several days. Use only the clear water 
from the top, which if properly stirred will hold 
enough lime for the purpose required. The eggs 
can be added (in another jar) as required, and 
must be kept covered by the solution an inch or 
two, adding eggs and solution as required till 
the jar is full. Cover it over, and do not move 
it often, as the lime has a tendency to make the 
shells brittle, and they will often crack in boiling. 
For the same reason it is best not to use jars 
which hold too many eggs, as their own weight 
breaks those at the bottom sometimes. When 
the jar is full enough, stir up the one in which 
the lime is mixed, and put half a pint of the 
thick mixture at the last, and when the water 
becomes used out of the first jar, I frequently 
add more cold, stirring well again. As long as 
there is a lime sediment at the bottom, the clear 
water seems quite efficacious, and there is 
usually a thin crust of lime over the top. Mine 
never becomes turbid, so I think there must be 
something wrong with that which does so. The 
best jars to use are those which hold about forty 
eggs ; I think they are about half gallon size.— 
M. H. 

Barle3 T water — I shall be glad of a good recipe for 
barley water.— Celkr et Acdax. 

Black: swans.— S. Hart .—The plumage of the black 
awan is sooty black mixed with dark grey. The birds are 
hardy, and are often bred in England. They arc not quite 
so large a8 the white swan.—J. H. Verrall. 


INDEX. 


Indiarubber plants propa¬ 
gating . 170 

Japanese nightingale .. 170 
Lobelias, tall scarlet .. 168 

Lore birds. 176 

Maggots on Holly leaves 170 
Management of parrota 176 
Manuring, waste in .. 1?3 
May trees .. ..187 

Mildew on Vines.. .. 170 
Mushroom bed making 176 
Nettle beer .. .. 177 

New parcels post.. .. 176 

Pansies, grubs in.. .. 170 

Parrot*, management of 176 
Parrots, treatment of .. 176 
Petunia), double .. 174 
Phlox Drummoudi .. 169 
Plants for graves ., 176 
Plants for greenhouses 175 
Plants, hardy border .. 171 
Plants, winter blooming 174 
Pleroma elegans.. .. 174 

Poinsettiaa .. .. 174 

Prunus triloba .. 167 

Preserving colour of 

dowers.176 

Perennials for borders.. 176 
Quails in outdoor aviary 176 

Rabbits breeding .. 177 

Rabbits, food for .. 177 

Rhubarb jam .. ..177 

Roses on walls .. .. 167 

Rose leaves ourling |.. 176 
Rosea failing .. ..174 

Roses dying back .. 176 

8 carlet Honeysuckle .. 176 
Seaweed in gardens .. ltd 
Silver and gold fish .. 177 
Spiries failing .. .. ltd 

Spring bulbs after flower¬ 
ing.176 

Rtatices. 170 

Town garden, work in .. ltl 
Trees and shrubs .. 167 

Tuberous Begonias .. 109 
Vegetables .. .. 171 

Veronicas.ltu 

Villa garden, the.. .. 171 


rage. 

Asparagus, summer man- | 
agemeut of .. .. 1G8 

Aurioula seed sowing .. 169 
Aviary in greenhouoe .. 176 

Aphides.176 

Aponogetun distachyon 176 
Begonia, a climbing .. 174' 
Begonias for flower beds 169 1 
Beiberis Darwini .. 147 
Cissia corymbosa .. 174 
Chrysanthemums .. 170 
Chrysanthemums, train¬ 
ing .174 

Citrons, treatment of .. 176 
Coming week’s work .. 170 
Conifers, sowing seeds of 176 
Coroniila glau.a.. .. lto 

Cucumbers all the year 

round.167 

Cucumbers, soil for .. 168 
Cucumbers, varieties of 168 
Dahlias, protecting from 

slugs .169 

Double Begonias .. 173 
Eggs, preserving.. .. lt7 

Finches in aviary .. 176 
Flowers for bees.. .. 168 
Flowers f )i spring .. 172 
Flowers for summer .. 172 
Food for canaries .. 176 

Food for cockatoos .. 176 

Food foi thrushes .. 176 

Food reform .. .. 175 

Fruit .169 

Fruit trees overcrowded 169 
Fungus on fish .. .. 177 

Garden hose, repairing.. 173 
Gloxinias, propagating.. 174 

Goldfish.177 

Gold and silver fish .. 177 
Gooseberry caterpillars 169 
Grape growing notes on 169 
Grapes, shanking .. 169 
Grapes, scalding .. .. 169 

Grubs in garden soil .. 176 
Hardy plants .. .. 170 

Hardy border plants .. 171 
Humea elegans out-of- 
doors .169 













GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[J u.ve 16, 1881 


■FERTILISING MOSS, onr Speciality.—All 

JL plant growers should send for our sample box with 
growing olant and cultural directions. Is., post free. — 
MANA GER, Great Frenc hes. Cray ley Do wn, Sussex. 

fpOMATO PLANTS.—Best three varieties, 3 

JL dozen for Is. 6d.. good plants fit for 4-in. pots. Celery 
plants Is. 6d. 100 in four best varieties.—MANAGER, Great 

FrenchcaCrawley Down . Sussex._ 

EXHIBITORS.—Betfceridge's prize quilled 
Aster*. 12 colours, separate: prize dwarf and tall striped 
French, and orange, lemon, andqui.led African Marigolds; 
finest double Zinnias, 12 colours. mixed ; nil at fid. per doz.; 
over 2s. jvost free.—MANAGER, Great Frenches, Crawley 
Down. ______ 

SPECIAL POTATO MANURE. 

A natural Guano, combined with special condensed Potato 
stimulants ; agree3 with the experiments recently made by 
the Cork Agricultural Society. Prepared by » BiicceBsftu 
Potato grower and writer, on Potato culture. In bags from 
7 lbs. to 2 cwt. free on rail. 

Extract from Analyst's Rf.port. 

Of several samples of our Special Potato Manure submitted 
to our analyst, the analyst says: “No. 1 ia VERY GOOD 
INDEED for the purpose." 

This manure is of special value as a dressing in June and July 

FOR PRICES APPLY, 

The Manager, Great Frenches, 

Crawley Do wn, Susse x._ 

HARTLAND (CORK) 

FOR 

Very Choice Seeds for Greenhouse- 

Per Packet—s. d 

Abutilon, extra fine French hybrids.0 6 

Auricula alpina, choice collection for pot culture, and 

quite hardy. 6<L and 1 • 

Begonia seniperflorens rosea, new, very floriferous .. Ob 
Calceolaria, personally selected, most beautiful Is. and 2 6 
Calceolaria, new dwarf spotted, French stnuu Is. and 2 6 
Calceolaria. International Prize strain .. Is. and 2 6 
Cineraria, very finest double forms, for bouquets .. 2 f. 

Cineraria, new dwarf French, exquisite.2 6 

Cineraria, large-flowering German, extra fine .. ..26 

Cineraria, finest selected Coveut Garden .. 3s. and 2 b 

Cineraria, deep sky-blue, pure and distinct for bunc hing 1 0 
Campanula pyruuidalis, magnificent, in large pots .. 0 3 
Canterbury Bells, frilled white, exquisite in pots .. 0 6 
CliantliuB Duinpieri. magnificent pot plant ..10 

Cuphea strigulosa. fine market plant .0 6 

Cyclamen persicum giganteimi, giunt strain .. ..2 6 

Geranium, Apple-scented variety, of New York and 

Boston, special foliage for buttonhole dowers ..10 
Ipomopsis elegans, brilliant scarlet biennial for pots .. 0 6 
Mignonette, Queen Victoria and Miles's Bpiml each 0 6 
Myosotia azorica, dark indigo blue, special for pot* .. 0 6 
Nicrembergia frutescens, white and mauve, splendid 

pot plant .0 6 

Primula, as good as offered by any Queen's Seedsman 

1b., Is. fid., and 2 6 
Bmilax, or creeping Myrtle, exquisite foliage, for pots.. 0 6 

HARTLAND’S 

Old Established Seed Warehouse, 

COR IKI. 

C HEAP PLANTS. Carriage Paid.— 

12 Verbenas in 12 splendid named sorts, Is. 6a.; 100, 8s. fid. 
100 Verbenas, white, purple, scarlet, and pink, 6a. 6<L 
12 Fuchsias in 12 lovely varieties, 1*. fid. • 100, 8s. 6d. 

12 Pansies in 12 splendid show kinds, 2s. 6d. ; 100, 18e. 

12 Ageratum Imperial dwarf, Is. 3d.; 100, 6a. 6d. 

12 Heliotropes, light or dark kinds, Is. 3d.; 100, 6s. 6A 
12 Meaembryanthemum cord, vanegatum, 1 b. 3d.; 100, 6a. 6<L 
12 Coleus in 12 splendid named sorts, 2s. 

12 Iresine Llndeni and otherB, Is. 3d.; 100, 6a. fid. 

12 Calceolaria Golden Gem, Is. 6<L ; 100, 8s. 

Terms Cash. The plants are clean, healthy, and well rooted. 
Tne Executors of the late 

H. BLANDFORD, 

The Dorset Nurseries, Hlandford. 

"DOUVARDIA PRESIDENT GARFIELD, 

Jj splendid double pink flowers, invaluablo for cut bloom, 
Is. 6iL e ich ; 12s. per dozen. 

Bouvardia Alfred Neuuer, lovely pure white rosette-like 
double flowers, 9cL each ; 6i. per dozen. 

Bouvardia Vreelandi. pure white, 6d. each; 4s. per dozen. 
Bouv ardia Humboldti corymbitiora, pure snow white flowers, 
almost equal t o Stephanotis, 6d. each; 4s. per dozen. 
Lemon-scented Verbena, 4d each ; 3a. per dozen. 

JOHN LEM AN, Olautigh Nursery, Chlgwell, Essex. 

THE C HOICEST PANSIES, 

12 Exhibition varieties, fit for the keenest competition, 
correctly named, package and carriage free, for 3e.; C for 
Is. 8d.; 36 for 7s. Gd. 

BLACK SAM (true). 

The darkest Pansy grown. 6 for Is. 2d.; 12 for 2 b. ; 36 for 
5s.; package and carriage free. 

EXTRA CHOICE SEED OF 
l*anEy, Polyanthus, and Auricula, Ed. and Is. per packet, post 
free. 

PKITOHAED & SONS, Shrewsbury. 

FERNS A SPECIALITY. 

Exotic and British Terns and Selaginellas, 

Suitable for STOVE and GREENHOUSE cultivation, for 
OUTDOOR FERNERIES, and other purposes in immense 
number and variety. Our ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE 
(price 6d ) contains much useful infoimation as well as 
” Hints on Fern Culture.' SPECIAL LISTS issued at inter¬ 
vals during the year, giving extremely low quotations, may 
be had FREE on application. 

W. BIRKENHEAD, 

Vern Nursery, Sale, Jlau^heater. 


HHEAP AND GOOD PLANTS FOR ROOMS, 

w certain to please.—Aralias, Grevilleas, C-horozemas, 
Green Dracaenas, Monochastors, Acacias, greenhouse Ferns, 
all from 6d. each Strong eeedlings of best mixed varieties 
Tuberous Begonias and sbowy-berried plants Riviua anti 
Solarium Hcndersoni, 2s to 3s. x>er doz Bes; Virgin Cork, 
invaluable for hiding pots, 3<1 per lb., 18s cwt Our noted 
bouquets from Is 6d. ; wreaths and crosses from 5s., for¬ 
warded to all part* of the United Kingdom. Bi dding plan! 
list free.—W. BAILEY, Southbourue Winter Gaiden, neai 
Christchurch. Telegrams to Southbourne. Established 1872, 

■pMPEROR PETUNIAS (Carter’s), the finest 

-LJ yet .seen, Danish Flag, Purple Prince, Queen of Rows, 
Maltese Lace. Ac., 6 varieties. Is 6d.; 12, in 6 varieties, 2s fid , 
free, packing guaranteed—J. HYLVEsTKR, Idle. Bradford. 

"MTCOTIANA AFF1NIS, Ca mu 11*8 Victoria 
J-v (tiue), handsome Bouvardia-like flowers, deliciously 
setnted, 3 for 1 b. t'd., stronw plants: Nicotiaua Lngidora and 
N. atropurpurea, C for la. 6d., handsome com nan ions to the 
above, all free, packing guaranteed.—J. SYLVESTER, Idle, 
Bradf ord. __ 

"DERfciNNlAL ASTERS, flowers like Mar^ue- 

■L rites, Pentbtemons, both of various colours, beautiful 
for cutting, fine plan's, 12 for 2s.. free, packing guaranteed.— 

J. SYLVESTER, Idle. Bradford _ 

‘DRENCH MARIGOLDS. — Scotch Prize> 
J- Daniels' and CanneU's dwarf Btriped. 30. Is. 6d.; 100> 

3s. 6d., free. — J. SYLVESTER, Idle, B radford_ 

Q.LOX1NIAS and Tuberous Begonias, all 
VjT guaranteed to bloom this summer : largo plants from 
single pots, 3, Is. 6d ; 6, 2s. 6rt.; 12, 4s. 6d.; smaller, but 
goodplant*. 6, 2s ; 12, 3s. 6d . all free, packing guaranteed. 
Above are Laing’*, Carter’s, Cannell’f», and Daniels' choicest 
strains.—J. SYLVESTER. Idle. Bradford. 

"DE ALT IF CL CLIMBERS (See List week’s 

-D advertisement).—12, my selection, 2». 6d.; Clematis Flam 
mula. deliciously Boosted, white bloom, perfectly hardy, 
grand for cutting or planted with hybrid Uicra ,ti*. covers the 
ba-e places, and gives its perfume, which the other is short of. 
Six nice plants Is. 6d., free, packing guaranteed. — J. 
SYLVESTER. Idle. Bradford_ 

"REDDING PLANTS. — Petunias, Cineraria 

-D maritima. Lobelia magnifies Japan and Diadem Pinks, 
Portulaca, Antirrhinums (Tom Thumb ami Tall). Asters, 
Phlox Drummondi. F. Marigolds, Pansies, purchaser's selec¬ 
tion, 50, 2s. 6d. ; 100. 4<?. fid. ; mine, 50, 2s.; 100, 3s. 6d. All 
are large plants for immediate planting. Package and car¬ 
r iage free—J. SYLVESTER. Idle. Bradford. _ 

ONLY Is. Gd., FREE, well packed. — Two 

U Grevillea robusta, two Acacias, two Coleus, one Etra- 
camu.—J. f'YLVF.STFR, Idle, Bradford. 

~W. a. SMITH 

(Late Framingham) 

OTA PLANTS for 6s., package free, for cash 
LI J_U with order, comprising 18 Geraniums, 18 Fuchsias, 
12 Ageratnms, 12 splendid Coleus, 12 Verbenas, 12 Petunias. 
12 Mimulu*. 12 Heliotrope, 24 imported Stocks*. 24 seedling 
Pansies (Belgian!. r >0 Lobelias, and 6 single Dahlia* 

ANK PENNY EACH.—Coleus. Fuchsias, Ge- 
VJ raniums, Ageratnms. Musk, Verbenas, Petunia. Cuphea, 
Paris Daisy, Sensitive Plant (very curious and interesting 
plant), Kolanum, Acacia lophautha, seen ted Verbena, Helio¬ 
trope, Salvia (scvrlot or blue). Heduuts, Tnulescantia, 
Balsams. Heu and Chickens, Rob Roy, and Briile Daisies : the 
above collection of 21 plaids with 12 finest imported Ton- 
week Stocks, 2s., free all orders of 1 b. 6d. and under, three 
extra stamps forpostage. 

C SELECTED COLEUS, Is. .Id.; 6 selected 

U Fuchsias, la. 3d.; 6 selected Geraniums, Is. 3d. ; two of 
each. Is. 3d., free ; Lsbelia, Is. 2d. 10D. 

QINGLE DAHLIAS, named, 2s. dozen, 6 for 
O la. 3d. 

HUTTINGS root freely now.—24 cutting of 

vJ Choice Plants, named, la. 3d ; selected cuttinga of 
Fuchsias and Geraniums, Is. dozen, free. 

W. H. SMI TE, St. Faith ’s, Norwich. 

TTICTORlA (Benary’e ttrain) and GERMAN 

V ASTER (owu savefi), unsurpassed for exhibition pur¬ 
pose* ; awarded eight first prizes last peasou; strong, we'l- 
nardened plant*. 3s. fid. per 100, post free.—ALFRED A. 
WALTERS. Florist, Bath. _ 

DEGONLAS (TUBEROUS).—Specialite, mixed. 
-D 6 plants. Is. 6d.: 12, 2s 6d . free.-J. LEGGETT, 20, 
Fr 1 detick Street Cale donian Road, Lon don, N. 

t JINGLE DAHLIAS.—Splendid varieties, pnr- 
' chased direct from Ware, of Tottenham, 4s. doz ; double 
Dahlias, show, fancy, bouquet, 12, in 12 named varieties, 
2a. 6d., all from single pots; Rex Begonia di .color, 2,1a.; 
double Petunias, two named varieties, 3d. each: Lapsgeria 
rosea, Is. 3d each ; Leucophyton Browni, 2, Is 2d. ; Ivy Ge¬ 
raniums. 4 named varieties, Is. 2d. ; Begonia*, pink and white 
flowering, 6, Is.; lemon Verbenas, 6 la.; Hydrangea panicu- 
latft, 4, Is. 2d.: Iaolepia, 6, la., all free.—HENRY & CO, 
ChigwellRow, JSssex__ 

pHOICE SAXIFRAGES,forrockwork,borders, 

VJ and bedding.—100 strong clumps in 20 kinds, correctly 
named, and including the new and splendid 8. Camposi, 
15*. : 100 in 10 good kinds, strong clumps, 10*. : 100 first-class 
Alpines in 100 sorts, 2Cs.; no better to be had.—STANS- 

FIELDS, Sale.___ 

TUAN THUS BARBATUS MAGNIFICUS.— 

U One o( the finest garden plants in existence ; very dwarf 
habit.: flowers very double and of long duration, forming 
solid sheets of the richest crimson ; flowering plants. 2s. per 
dozen ; extra strong clumps, 4 b per dozen.—STANSFIELDS 

Sale. ___ 

’VTEW FERNS.—Twelve new and rare British 
IN Ferns, not elsewhere obtainable, the set. 12s. Special 
list of choice Ferns at 6d. and Is. each, freo on application 
F. W. & H. STANSFIELD, Sale, near Manchester. 

T WO DOZEN PINES for Sale.—A. NEWTON, 

^ Hillside, Newark. 

PANSIES ! PANSIES !!-Over 300 "varieties. 

Jl The best that money can buy. Show varieties, 20s., 
Fancy. 25s. per 100. The following unsolicited testimonial is 
some guarantee a* to quality of plants and variety sent out by 
me : — Wolverhampton. June 7, 1883. 

“ Dear Sir,—Out of my stock of over 400 plants, 1 am 
compelled to admit the 50 plants I had from you in the month 
of May are the strongest and th- best, and are the only 
i >lants so far that have bloomed satisfactorily. I have bought 
from many people, but frankly admit having received beBt 
value for my money from your establishment.—Believe me to 
lomain yours sincerely, W. A. B.” 

R. W. PROCTOR, A*hgate Road, CheBtei field. 


•NOTICE.—THE AMERICAN PLANT; 1 

I -*-i NOW IN BLOOM, and maybe seen doji?(StainJ 


J-nna 

NOW IN BLOOM, and maybe seen daii?(Soa-iiiis 
ccpted).-ANTHONY WATER tit. Knap Hill Sanmm 
Woking Station. 

DAKLY - FLOWERING CHRYSANfS 

■LI MUMS —Planted now will flower from Juh « 
November; 2s. doz., free.—W. E BOYCE. 87, YerhirrEa 
HolLway. _ 

w CAR LET MUSK (the best for training), Rh 
O for la.; Yeilaw Musk, 6d per doz^ free.—W. L KlYJ 
8T. Y« rbury 1’ua.a, Holloway, Lcudou. 

TOMATO PLANTS (large red, very 

L la fid. per doz., free.—W. E. BOYCE, 87, Ytrltq 

H °lb>way. Londo n_ 

OlNULK DAHLIAS, mixed varieties, t b, $ 
per doz . free.—W. E. BOYCE, 87, Yerturj Boad, ii£ 
way. London. 

HR UBS ON GOOSEBERRY TKKFX-l 

VJ effectual remedy to destroy them without injury tad 
tree or fruit (a garden may bo cleared of the pest in nfei 
at a cost <>f sixpence) on receipt of twelve stamps atd fStqi 
directed envt*loi»e, to GE '. GIBBS, Park Rouse, Psrtlia 
Hxrliome. near Birmingham. 

|WTRS. 8INKINS! Mrs. Siokins!—Sample Ho* 

ll-L by post, six stamps, plants 6s. per doz.—W. VlJUii 
Taplow, Buck*. 

PRIMULAS I PRIMULASi ClNKKAUAt 

L —Young Primulas and Cineraria* of fint-ck&;f 2 u 
for potting for the ccnrng season's hlocm, ls.£d du;, 
per 100; cash.—WM. CURB AN k SON, Oldfield 
Altrincham, _ 

DUSES OX OWN ROOTS.—Ricestronjpha 

Lw will soon bloom, three for 2s. Cd., free: Gloire <iebj 
Cheshunt Hybrid. Reve d'Or, the three bestBwestfctig 
—AlAlRln & CO , Weston-in-C5ordauo. Bristol._ 

■DERNS AND BEGONIAS.—Four Naukli 

L Ferns, two varieties ; two variegated Feres uti 
Begonias, with beautifully marked leaves, 2s. Cd, fa 
MAIRIS k CO.. Weston-in-Go rdano. Bristol _ 

Q UANTITY of Gentiaim acanlis, 3s. ft’,I 

large Bcarlet Tropseolum, Cd. each j double blue i.«j 
K^patloa, double Polyanthus.’alpin j Auriculas, t‘. a 
double white, yellow, and Evening Primrose*. 54 at 
double and single white and double yellow Naum 
d oz.. post free.—" GARDENER, * Lisnadill. Amish_j 

BAYLISS, JONES & BAILS 




I — c.n T/iLoaur.s — 1 j 

Manufactory: -VICTORIA WORKS, W0LYERHASIT4 
London Office : 3, Crooked Lane. King William SfefiK 

T EAN-TO ROOF GREENHOUSEJ^ 

Jj 8 ft.. £1015 1 .; 15 ft, by 10 ft. £1215s., withtl-*® 
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GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


Vol. T. 


MY GARDEN. 

The Roses on their own roots ate very full of 
tad ; I did nothing to them—was afraid to prune 
tt the usual time, as I did in 1882, as I had then 
icarcely a blossom. My bed of Scotch Roses is 
i mass of blossom ; they have not had their tips 
jinched off, as in every former year. Yellow, 
vhite, and straw coloured have run all over the 
ted. The effect is very pretty, of course “a 
vilderness.” The out buds open in water, and 
teep my vases tilled for a month ; their perfume 
s delicious, and they make the prettiest of little 
rattonhole bonquets. These Roses throw out 
uch a succession of suckers that they renew 
hemselves ; when the old bushes become very 
mwieldy, 1 simply out them down to the ground. 

My soil is sandy. To grow Rose cuttings, 
Myrtles, Heliotropes, Honeysuckles, and such 
ike, I follow this simple plan with the most per¬ 
fectly satisfactory result: I take a large plant 
K>t, also one a size or two smaller. The second 
iot has a cork put over the hole as tightly as 
-mssible (1 think there are pots made with no 
coles, one of them would be easier), and the pot 
3 filled with water. This pot is put in No. 1, 
lie edges level. In order to do this. No. 1 must 
e filled with sufficient soil to raise No. 2 the 
equisite height. Now the space between the 
ircumference of the two pots is filled with 
ome good soil. The cuttings are stuck in the 
oil between the rims, and watered slightly if 
; he soil is dry. Finally a hand-glass or cloche 
Is put inside the rim of the large pot firmly, and 
-he nursery is placed in a slightly shady corner 
.•here the sun shines on it certain hours. All 
-hese cuttings grow. When they look as if they 
ad started I remove the glass, pull the cuttings, 
nd if they keep firm and resist the pull, I slip a 
nife sideways under each, push back the soil a 
ttle, and gently draw out the plant. It is 
-rettv sure to have plenty of roots ; if not, I put 
J back again. 

My nursery is in the greatest request; I am 
onstantly begged by my neighbours to raise 
heir most cherished cuttings. The advantage 
f this plan is that it requires no attention. The 
ut tings can be entirely left to themselves until 
ranted; I often leave home for two or three 
■'ronths after they are planted, and find them 
hriving on my return. If the water pot entirely 
cecomes empty, or nearly so, through evaporation 
r any mishap, it lias simply to be refilled. I 
•athered ones year at Altendler, on the Rhine, a 
mall piece of pink; it had no roots. I brought 
t home anyhow some fortnight afterwards 
n my trank, popped it into my nursery, and, as 
went the next day into Cornwall and stayed 
ome six weeks, I saw nothing further of the 
oundling. When I returned home it had 
ortned a nice little plant, and has since run 
ill about my garden. The Rose cuttings form 
i callous in about twelve days, and from it 
mmberiess rootlets spring. Ajir'n, or rather the 
rollowing spring, is the difficulty with me—not 
with any of the other plants, simply with Roses. 

Sweet Criers thrive wonderfully in my sandy 
•oil: I once wrenched up a wild specimen from 
the down at Box Hill, and planted it the next 
lav near my Hermitage. It has forced its way 
^through everything, a dense mass of hops 
included; is now 6 feet high, and this year going 
to flower for the first time, having been some 
fiveyeare making up its blossom material. In 
another corner I have a very large bush. When 
I find it covered with green insects, I squeeze 
them oft, wearing an old glove. 

My Aucubas, male and female, are very much 
Cot up, and look sickly, but the latter is covered 
with blossom. They are much exposed to westerly 
1 Sales; the female is a very large bush, and bears 
■ s quantity of berries, but it had scarcely any 
until I followed the plan of putting branchlets 
d male blossom hitched on the female clusters, 
ftmre is one sort of fly constantly hoveriDg 
ibout the shrubs, bnt I never see any bees or 
intterflies approach them. The Hops ore 
•"usually fine, have covered the Hermitage 
(they are only planted on one side of it), and arc 
tunning up the Sycamore at the back, quite as 
Wgh again as any I see in the Hop gardens 
Wween Hastings and Godstotje. I showed 
' '“cm to one of the hoppers, And sha was qrjtb 


JUNE 23, 18S3. 


astounded; they are the sort that hurt pickers 
the most in picking. Every spring they have a 
dressing of road scrapiDgs. Last year only this 
was omitted, and they went through every stage 
of disease, finally had the black mildew, and fell 
from the bines, infecting the plants, Honey¬ 
suckle, Briers, kc., that in any way touched 
them. Usually they run to the top of the Syca¬ 
more, some 20 feet, perhaps rather less, yield 
quantities of male and female blossoms, and 
form quite a garden. 

Tlie Gooseberries are covered with leaves and 
soft growth; on two of the hushes where this 
has developed the least, there is a heavy crop of 
fruit, on the others very little. I keep the 
caterpillars well “ squeezed as yet I see only 
an occasional very handsome rough creature. 
Some years the bushes are covered with eggs, 
and these escape my vigilance, and develop 
into caterpillars, which reach a quarter 
their size. I commence slaughter one evening, 
and then ensues a mysterious stampede. In a 
few days the last has vanished ; where do they 
go, and why ? Do they dislike the scent of 
their squeezed relatives, or what ? I shall 
commence next week picking off all the tops 
of the young growths on my Red Currants, 
and in a fortnight’s time I cut out all superflu¬ 
ous twigs, leaving only those that shade the 
fruit a little and about a dozen on each tree for 
young wood. When the leaves are off I cut back 
all hut the young wood shoots to spurs, leaving 
the young wood intact.. 

Is this the best treatment ? The bushes are 
about ten years old, and yield an enormous crop 
in proportion to their size. Many gardeners say 
they have never seen trees so laden. But the 
fruit is undeniably unusually sour. It gets per¬ 
fectly ripe, very large, and hangs on the bushes 
pretty late ; but although it has any amount of 
sun, it never sweetens really. 

When should Laurnstines be pruned ? My 
Black Currants have less fruit than usual, and 
the leaves have holes cut out of them in a 
most unusual and disfiguring style. The White 
Currants show a great deal of leaf, bnt very 
little fruit. Day Lilies do not as yet show 
any sign of blossoms, although there was a great 
abundance last year. A very bright, spike of 
blossom has developed on a Star of Bethlehem, 
more than 3 feet high; it has been in the 
ground some nine years, and this is the first 
blossom. Mai:k. 


ROSES. 

Climbing Roses. —Now is the time when 
climbing Roses are beautiful where they are 
trained so as to grow, wreathe, and bloom freely. 
These old Roses seem first-rate growers, but the 
Perpetuals have the advantage in some seasons, 
for although the first blooms may be bad, a 
second growth of strong shoots soon follows and 
a fresh bloom is produced. The Garland and 
Madame d'Arblay 1 like very much. These Roses 
are not often seen now, perhaps because when 
pruned in the usual fashion there are no flowers. 
I have these on a trellis 8 feet high, and I pinch 
out the tops of the rods when they reach that 
height, which makes the side buds start and 
form good shoots bofore autumn. The new wood 
is tied in in the autumn, and the shoots'which 
have flowered are cut away. The sprays are 
flowering while fresh rods for next year are 
rising from the root and springing from the 
lower parts of the old shoots. It can easily be 
imagined what a nice mess a jobbing gardener 
wonld make of Roses like these on their own 
roots if he got it into his head that they were 
budded on a dwarf stock, especially as the yonng 
rods do not look much like the old wood. All 
the rods from the root would be taken for suckers 
and cut away. I saw a plant of Madame d'Arblay 
lately which seemed to have received this treat¬ 
ment ; three or four zigzag shoots of very old 
wood covered the front of a house, showing only 
a few leaves and scattered flowers. Madame 
d’Arblay has the same hahit as The Garland. 
Another fine Rose is Felicity Perpfitnfie, an ever¬ 
green (sempervirens) Rose, which will cover the 
whole front of a house if well treated. I have 
fiflen 30 feet of fence clothed with one plant 


No. 224. 


nearly as thickly as it could be with Ivy. It iB 
truly evergreen in winters like the past. I cannot 
help thinking it would produce a good effect to 
plant this Rose alternately with Gloire de Dijon 
for the walls of houses, so as to completely 
clothe the walls with greenery. The blooms of 
pink and buff Roses look very poor when seen on 
a brick wall.—T. D. 

Roaes on Briar stocks.—I have read 
with great interest the correspondence in 
Gardening on the best way of growing Roses. 
My experience as an amateur of fifteen years 
generally agrees with that of “A Practical 
Man,” in fact, I believe his plan is the only 
way to grow good Roses. I have at the present 
time Roses on own roots, Manetti, and Brier 
stocks, and for quality and quantity of flowers, 
I prefer the Briers, and next to them the 
Manetti, the own-root plants being a long way 
behind the two former. The soil of my garden 
is rather light, and not the soil I should select 
for Roses had I a choice in the matter. I should 
imagine that a new beginner reading “A Practi¬ 
cal Man’s ” remarks and those of “ J. D.,” would 
be puzzled which to follow. I should advise 
such to try budded plants as most likely to give 
satisfaction; if they fail, then try own-roots, but I 
find dwarf plants nearly always form own-roots, 
which gives them a double chance, and stand the 
winter much better than own-roots only. I admit 
standards require a deal of protection in winter, 
but that is well repaid the following summer. 
Wien I require pot plants I bud a few Brier 
stocks and pot them in autumn, which flower 
better than any otiier I have tried. Amateurs 
may easily distinguish the Rose from the sucker 
if they are once shown the difference. I mostly 
buy my dwarfs and bud my standards, which 
operation is very simple.—S am. 

3869.— Marechal Niel Rose —This Rose 
will thrive just as well whether planted inside 
or outside of a house, provided, of course, that 
the plant be inside in the latter case, and also 
that in both cases the soil be good, well manured, 
and kept moist. We have a Marechal Niel 
worked on a standard Brier that is planted in 
an outside border, and the head being inside the 
house, it is trained up under the roof. This 
does well and blooms finely. Others are planted 
on an inside border, and being kept well watered, 
also do well. If the Rose be planted outside, 
so that the stem is exposed to frost., that should 
be protected, if the heat within the house be of 
a forcing nature. If the house be a cool one it 
will matter but little, as growth will not begin 
till the cold has passed. 


HOUSE AND WINDOW GARDENING. 

Flo-wers and plants in rooms.—The 

white, yellow, and bronze-brown colourings of 
Spanish Iris, about a week later than the blue, 
are now some of our best room decorations. They 
are in a glass that allows the hunch to spread at 
the top, so that each flower stands clear of its 
neighbour. A large, high glass holds white Fox¬ 
gloves, with Iris ochroleuca and the white and 
yellow Thalictrums. Flowering branches of 
Portugal Laurel are in large vases of bine and 
white oriental porcelain. A white china basket 
is filled with Sweet Brier in flower, and some 
blooms with foliage of Magnolia Thompsoniana 
are arranged in an antique engraved glass. 
Autumn-sown French Poppies are still brilliant 
in large masses of red and pink, nnd in continual 
use on the dinner-table with warm coloured 
foliage. The Corn Marigold (Chrysanthemum 
segetum) is another handsome annual for present 
use, fine in large bunches by itself. Masses of 
orange Eschscholtzia in three silver bowls de¬ 
corate a long dinner-table. A large embossed 
copper holds a white Cactus grouped with 
Adiantnms, and pots of Harrison’s Musk are 
bright and sweet smelling.—J. G. 

Room and table plants. — Plants 
naturally fit for use in this way are by no means 
plentiful. 1 ) (As a rule, those disposed to keep to a 
siugle stem, such as the smaller leaved Aralias, 
Falms, Dracicnas, and others of a like character, 
arc the most suitable, and when too large for 
this purpose there should always be sufficient 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






180 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[June 23, 1883. 


uccessional stock to take their place. Amongst 
Pandanuses, P. Veitchi is most liked; where 
plants of it are nicely variegated and not too 
large it is very effective, but, owing to its being 
unable to live out of heat except in summer, it 
is not so useful as others more hardy. It is, 
however, easily increased, as it produces suckers 
freely when it has attained a moderate size. It 
is not well to allow the suckers to get too large 
before taking them off from the old plants, as if 
their leaves have got long and erect they never 
make such good examples as when struck small. 
Suckers will root freely treated in the way in 
which Pines are managed ; slip them off from 
the parent plants, strip a few of the bottom 
leaves off, and insert them in small pots filled 
with ordinary loam, with or without bottom 
heat. There are one or two other species that 
answer well for this kind of decoration whilst in 
a small state, of which P. javanicus variegatus 
and P. Vandermeerschi are the best; they re¬ 
quire similar treatment to P. Yeitchi. 


THE AMAZON LILY. 
(EUCHARIS amazonica.) 

The flowers of this plant are among the most 
esteemed of all white flowers. They are de¬ 
liciously fragrant and chaste iD form. Never is 



The Amazon Lily (Eucharia amazonica.) 


there a week in the year that flowers of the Eu- 
charis are not to be found in the flower markets, 
where they are sold retail at from Is. to 2s. 6d. 
per bloom according to the season. There are 
two ways of growing this plant. One is to pot 
them on without division, the way in which 
large specimens are obtained ; and the other is 
to divide frequently, growing the large bulbs in 
single pots. The latter plan answers best for room 
decoration. They may be grown well either in 
loam and peat or in loam and leaf-mould, or in 
pure turfy peat. To bloom them freely they re¬ 
quire a period of rest after a period of growth, 
and this rest is obtained by moving the plants 
to a lower temperature, and as they are ever¬ 
green, water must never be withheld so far as 
to cause the leaves to suffer. In summer the 
plants may stand a time in the open air, and 
such plants throw up strong spikes after being 
placed in gentle heat again. By following a sys¬ 
tem of alternate growing and resting periods 
several crops of flowers may be obtained in one 
season ; and by growing a sufficient number of 
plants to have relays always coming on in suc¬ 
cession, plants in bloom may always be had. 
Bottom-heat, where available, is useful for 
pushing up sluggish bloomers. They are very 
accommodating as to temperature, but during 
the time of growth should have a night tempera¬ 
ture of at least 60°. As they delight in moisture, 
the pots must be well drained, and if a little 
crushed charcoal and sand be mixed with the 
soil, to increase its porosity, it will be an ad¬ 
vantage. Clear soot water should be given occa¬ 
sionally when growing freely or blooming. 


Propagating 1 fine leaved Begonias. 

—Wherever shoots can be spared for cuttings 
they root without difficulty, but if it is desired 
to propagate them extensively, or the stock is 
limited, they may be easily increased by means 
of leaves, and for this purpose mature leaves are 
best, as if too succulent they are apt to decay. 

Digitized by CjOOQTC 


After separating them from the plant lay them 
on the bench and cut them up into several pieces. 
In cutting them up commence at the leaf-stalk 
and continue outwards to the edge, taking care 
to have a prominent vein in each wedge-shaped 
piece. The parts of the leaf thus divided should 
then be inserted in well-drained pots of sandy 
soil after the manner of cuttings, that is to say, 
in a perpendicular position, and with about 1 
inch of the base or pointed end buried in the 
soil. Then water and place them in a close case, 
shaded during sunshine, when after a time buds 
will be formed on various parts of the cut edges, 
and these in their turn will produce young plants, 
which, owing to the moisture in the case, will 
push forth roots even when not in contact with 
the soil. When strong enough they should be 
taken off and potted singly. Another method 
about equally good is laying the leaf on a pan of 
sandy soil, or, better still, on Cocoanut-fibre, in 
the case, pegging it down in three or four places, 
so that the whole of the underside may rest in 
the soil or fibre as the case may be. After this 
is done, take a knife and divide the principal 
ribs at intervals of about 1 inch, when from the 
divided parts young plants will be produced and 
root at once into the soil. 

Winter-flowering Begonias.— The pre¬ 
sent is a good time for striking cuttings of 
shrubby winter-flowering kinds of Begonias, 
such as fuchsioides, hybrida, floribunda, 
foliosa, &c. For this purpose choose young 
shoots, put them in sandy soil, give a good 
watering, and keep them close, when they will 
soon root if not over-watered. The first water¬ 
ing should be a thoroughly good one, to settle 
everything in its place, but afterwards beware 
of keeping them too wet. Where tuberous kinds 
have been pushed on in a little heat, cuttings 
may be secured, which will root under the treat¬ 
ment usually given to soft-wooded plants, viz., 
cut them off just above a joint, so as to leave an 
eye to break from, and put them in up to the 
base of the leaf, keeping them, of course, close 
till rooted.—H. P. 

Propagating Acacias.— Acacias of the 
greenhouse kinds cut back after flowering will 
now be producing plenty of shoots, which will 
make good cuttings, especially if kept since 
flowering in a temperature rather above that of 
an ordinary greenhouse. 

As they are somewhat 
difficult to deal with, 
they will require a con¬ 
siderable amount of 
care. Take some bell- 
glasses, and having ob¬ 
tained the proper size of 
pots for them, fill the 
latter to within 1 inch of 
the top with broken 
crocks, the rougher pieces 
being placed at the bot¬ 
tom, and gradually be¬ 
coming smaller, till the 
upper layer is composed 
of pieces fine enough to 
prevent the soil passing 
through them. If the 
pot is large, a small one 
may be inverted over 
the hole in the bottom 
to facilitate drainage. Cutting of Acacia arniata. 
For soil, take two parts 

peat, one part each of loam and silver sand, and 
sift the whole through a fine sieve, so as to 
thoroughly mix the different ingredients together; 
then fill the pots firmly almost to the rim, 
leaving just enough space for a thin layer of 
silver sand, and when this latter is put on give a 
slight watering, and all will be ready for the 
insertion of the cuttings. Shoots of from 
1 £ inches to 2 inches long are the best, and must 
be cut off cleanly without bruising the cuttings, 
from which the bottom leaves should be removed 
for about half-inch. For this latter purpose a 
small sharp-pointed pair of scissors are most 
suitable; indeed, they are of great use in a 
variety of matters relating to propagation, 
especially if kept sharp and clean. Before 
putting in the cuttings press the bell-glass in its 
place, as by its imprint in the sand the space 
available for the cuttings is at once shown, and 
all danger of pressing them down by the edge 
of the glass is thus avoided. Put the cuttings 
in firmly, but not too thickly, and when finished 
give a good watering—indeed, a thorough 
soaking, to cause the sand to form one unbroken 



surface; after this leave off the glass till the 
foliage is dry, when it may be at once put on, 
pressing it down slightly to make all air-tight. 
When this is done place them, if possible, in a 
close house, but one in which little more than 
greenhouse temperature is maintained, while if 
such does not exist a cold frame is better than a 
light, airy fracture. The glasses must be 
removed each morning for a short time, and 
after watering leave them off till the foliage is 
dry again. Removeat once all decaying matter, 
as it spreads quickly. In this way they will 
soon root, or if rather slow when calloused they 
may be kept warmer, which will hasten their 
rooting. 


FRUIT. 


VINES AND VINE CULTURE.* 

Ip its price were not prohibitive, we should 
recommend all of our readers who possess a 
Grape Vine to also possess this book. It is 
written in clear and simple language by one of 
the best authorities on Vine culture, and where 
necessary woodcuts have been introduced to 
explain fully the different operations which have 
to be performed on the Vine from its first bud¬ 
ding into growth to the fall of the leaf. Indeed, 
Mr. Barron has left nothing on his part to be 
desired, but this is more than can be said of the 
publishers. The general get up of the book is 
bad, and the matter might easily have been got 
into half the space, and the book have been sold 
at half the price. The following extracts will 
give a good idea of what kind of matter the book 
is composed:— 


Disbudding and Stopping the Shoots 

On the commencement of the growth of the 
Vine, each succeeding season, the first operation 
that requires to be performed, and to which 
attention must be at once directed, is that which 
is termed disbudding, but which is, in reality, a 
thinning-out and regulating of the young shoots 
that may appear. This is an operation of very 
great importance in respect to young Vines, as 
upon its being properly carried out will depend 
the future form or character of the plant. Dis¬ 
budding is, in fact, the first step in training, 
although it is practised much in the same man¬ 
ner, long after the form of the Vine is estab¬ 
lished. Improper disbudding will counteract the 
best system of pruning that may be adopted ; 
therefore it should be performed carefully and 
judiciously. The time for disbudding is just as 
soon as it may be perceived that there are more 
buds than are requisite—say, when the shoots 
are an inch or thereabouts in length ; but the 
sooner it is done the better. To allow the super¬ 
fluous buds to develop into shoots, and then to 
break them off, is a clear waste of the energies 
of the plant. Some cultivators wait until it can 
be seen where the clusters will be produced 
before disbudding finally, and this is safe 
practice with some varieties of Grapes. 

In disbudding a young Vine, or a leading 
shoot of the previous year's growth, the first care 
should be for the top or leading bud, the growth 
from which should be carefully tied in and pre¬ 
served from injury, as forming a continuation of 
the Vine-stem. In the disbudding of a young 
Vine, we also regulate the number of shoots which 
form the future spurs. To allow space for the 
full development of the foliage, these side shoots 
should not be less than 18 inches or 20 inches 
apart on each side of the stem. It frequently 
happens, especially in the case of slowly-grown 
Vines, that the buds on the stems are more 
numerous than the shoots require, and in such 
cases all those not required must be removed— 
rubbed off, as the phrase is. Nothing is more 
pernicious in Vine-culture than the crowding of 
the shoots and leaves. It is well, therefore, to 
make a fair beginning, with the proper number, 
and this is done by disbudding. Careless dis¬ 
budding, or rubbing off the wrong buds, that is 
the buds which should have been left, which is 
easily done, must be guarded against. The loss 
of a bud often means the entire loss of the shoot 
or spur, and is the source of permanent disfigure¬ 
ment to the plant. 

Disbudding, also, at times takes the place of 
pruning. If the lower buds of a young Vine-rod 
do not break well, it is a good plan to rub off the 
higher or top buds, which will induce the lower 


* Vines and Vine Culture, by A. F. Barron 
Horticultural Gardens. Chiswick, London, * 


Royal 


tai 23, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


181 


CDes to break stronger. Again, if it has been 
fcij-otten to prune a Vine or shoot until it has 
tome too late to do so on account of the risk 
et bleeding, the neglect may, to some extent, be 
rectified by a careful rubbing-off ot the buds, as 
soon as they may appear, back to the point where 
ike (hoot ought to have been pruned to, and then 
»hen the leaves are about fully developed, the 
tap of the Vine will be sufficiently diverted, and 
tie shoot may be pruned with safety. 

Following closely on the operation of dis¬ 
banding comes that of tying-down and stopping 
the shoots. The young shoots of a Vine, espe¬ 
cially when they are growing vigorously, are 
exceedingly tender, and easily broken, so that 
ibe work of tying them down into their proper 
position on the wires or trellis to which the plants 
are trained—for they naturally grow upwards 
towards the glass—requires a great amount 
of care and patience. When they are found to be 
at all brittle, they must only just be inclined or 
drawn down a little at one time, and so gradually 
bent or guided into the right position. Practi¬ 
cally, however, it is not advisable to tie the 
shoots so very' early; if the leaves are allowed 
to expand a little, and the shoots to get some of 
their woody fibre developed, they will be found 
to bend quite freely into the desired form with¬ 
out breaking. 

In reference to stopping the shoots, the illus¬ 
tration (fig. 18) shows the upper portion of a 
young Vine-shoot, with its bunch of flowers, 
which is eventually to become a cluster of 
berries as it would appear at this stage. The 
stopping is requisite in order to keep the plant 
within certain limits, and thus to prevent over¬ 
crowding and a confusion of the shoots. Accor¬ 
ding to the spur system, the main stems being 
from 4 feet to 5 feet apart, the side shoots, on 
which the fruit is borne, cannot be allowed to 
extend to more than 2J feet in length, or other¬ 
wise they must overlap" each other. But in fact, 
the leogth of the shoots has to be regulated by 
the position of the hunch. The usual practice is 
to stop them at two joints beyond the bunch, as 
shown at a in the figure, or at one joint beyond, 
b, if there is not space for a greater extension. 
Practically, the longer these shoots can be 
allowed to grow before stopping them the better, 
as the greater the quantity of fnlly-develcped 
first leaves, the greater the amount of vigour 
induced. The operation itsel f, at the point where 
it becomes necessary, should be performed as 
soon as the shoot attains the requisite length, 
and is done simply by pinching off the tip, at the 
point indicated (fig. 18a), between the finger and 
thumb, before it has become fully developed. 
There is thus nothing, or scarcely anything, to 
take eff, no denuding of the Vine of a portion 
of its foliage, and no consequent check to its 
growth. Tt is very bad practice indeed to allow 
the shoots to grow to such a length as to render 
it necessary to use the knife in stopping them. 
This is a great waste of the vital energies of the 
plant. The tendril forming a part of the bunch 
of fruit should be pinched off at the same time 
as shown in fig. 18 at c, as also should the bunch 
or tendril d, found opposite the first or second 
leaf above the proper bunch. 

After this first pinching or stopping, the fore¬ 
most bnds seen in the axils of the leaves again 
produce shoots, according to their vigour, as 
shown in fig. 19. These second shoots are called 
laterals, or summer lateral shoots, as shown in 
Chapter IX., fig. 12, E. They should be stopped 
:n the same way, immediately beyond the first 
leaf, and so on again and again throughout the 
-eason, as they may continue to grow. The 
leading shoot of a young Vine is, of course, to be 
exempted from this stopping, excepting in so far 
as relates to the laterals it produces ; and these, 
if space is limited, must be stopped in the man¬ 
ner just explained, or they may be trained out in 
the same manner as the proper shoots, and 
allowed to extend and occupy as much space as 
may be available. It should alwayB be borne in 
mind that the greater the quantity of fully 
developed leaves and shoots, the more powerful 
must be the root-action, and the more vigorous 
the plant. The stopping of the shoots of a Vine 
» not a checking or repressing of its vigour, but 
■ather a guiding or directing of its energies into 
certain channels of a more desirable and bene¬ 
ficial character than those they would follow if 
left to themselves. 

Care must be taken that at the commencement 
cl the colouring period the shoots are all kept 
properly stopped- At t^ta^eried the greatest 


re all kep 
he gf Sates 


caution is necessary that no check should be 
sustained by the respiratory organs of the Vine, 
which a sudden stripping of the leaves might 
cause, with the probable result of inducing 
shanking or some other evil. If, through neglect, 
the shoots may have grown somewhat long and 
become confused, it is almost better to leave 
them so until the fruit is coloured and ripe, and 
the critical period is past, than to remove too 
many at one time. 

The Thinning of the Fruit. 

This is an operation of considerable import¬ 
ance, not only for the well-being of the crop of 
fruit, but also for the after or lasting well-being 
of the plant itself. The Vine is extremely fruit¬ 
ful, so much so, that were the whole crop of the 
bunches produced by it allowed to remain, the 
plant would soon succumb through over-fertility. 
It is easily possible to overcrop a Vine, and where 
such has been the case it takes years for the 
plant to regain its former strength. It is quite 
impossible to form any estimate as to how many 
bunches or what crop a Vine should carry, so 
much depends upon the health and constitution 
of the plant itself, on its surroundings, and on 
the subsequent management, See. A good rule 
to follow would be this: according to the sur¬ 
face of properly developed leaves, Sec., so should 
be the crop of fruit taken. We*know we must 
have so many good leaves for every pound of 
fruit, and the greater the amount of properly de¬ 
veloped foliage allowed the better. If we bear 
in mind that all the colouring and sweetening 
matter which goes to the perfecting of the 
berries has first to pass through and be elabo¬ 
rated by the leaves, it will be seen that without 
a certain amount of healthy leaf-surface good 
fruit cannot be produced. A Vine with weak, 
sickly foliage cannot produce or bear much fruit, 
and a Vine whose foliage gets destroyed by red- 
spider, &c., is in exactly the same condition. 

As a general rule, one bunch on each spur 
would be considered a heavy crop; it is never 
advisable to leave more. If one-third of these 
bunches were taken off, the bunches being of 
moderate size, what is left would be termed a 
moderate crop; and so on. In thinning the 
bunches of such free-setting varieties as the 
Black Hamburgh, every second bunch on each 
spur should be cut off before the flowers open, 
and all others which it is desirable to remove as 
soon as the Grapes are set. The thinning of the 
bunches as well as of the berries should take 
place as early as possible. It is a great waste of 
power to allow that to develop itself which is 
not required, and which it is known must be cut 
away. Therefore, a6 soon as the berries are 
fairly set, thin out—that is, cut off—the super¬ 
numerary bunches at once, and commence the 
thinning of the berries. 

The thinning of the berries, or Grape-thinning, 
as it is popularly called, is a delicate and some¬ 
what tedious operation. To be expert at this 
work requires not only considerable practice, but 
a quick eye to see where and what to cut, and a 
nimble yet steady hand, so that the berries re¬ 
tained may not be injured. Fig. 21 represents 
a small bunch of the Black Hamburgh unthinned, 
and fig. 22 one of similar size after being 
properly thinned. In the former example there 
were one hundred and thirty-two berries, and in 
the second there were, before any were cut out, 
in all one hundred and twenty-four berries, but 
these have been reduced by the scissors to 
thirty-six— about one-third. This may be taken 
as a fair average of the thinning required for 
ordinarily well-set Black Hamburgh Grapes. Of 
course the number retained should vary accord¬ 
ing to the size of the berries of the sort; such 
varieties as the Royal Muscadine do not require 
to be so severely treated. It seems to the un¬ 
initiated a great sacrifice to cut away so many, 
the thinned bunch appearing quite a skeleton ; 
but when it is remembered that each berry, when 
fully grown, should be nearly one inch in 
diameter (oftentimes more), it is plain that to 
leave more than there is actual space for is 
absurd, as well as injurious. With some closely- 
setting varieties, such as the Black Alicante, it 
is often desirable to commence the thinning pro¬ 
cess before the flowers open. 

The mechanical operation of thinning Grapes 
is thus performed: Procure a little cleft or 
forked stick about 6 inches long to use with the 
left hand, in order to hold the bunch lirmly with¬ 
out touching it, and take a pair of Grape scissors 
ib the right hafifl. Trim the btihch if required 


into proper shape first, then continue by cutting 
out all the inside berries, next all the small 
berries, and then the 6ide berries. The expert 
hand will cut these off two or three or more at a 
time, not singly, as the hesitating, unpractised 
hand will do. This, it will be found, will have 
materially lessened the work, and it will only 
remain to regulate the remainder to the required 
distance apart. The time that is occupied in 
thinning Grapes is very great, but it must be 
given to the operation if good Grapes are desired. 
It will take about five minutes for an expert 
hand to thin properly a one pound bunch. With 
larger bunches it is frequently desirable to tie 
the shoulders up, and so spread the bunch out, 
or loop them up to the trellis with Shaped 
pieces of thin wire of the requisite length; others 
prop the shoulders up from underneath with 
little bits of wood; but for ordinary cultivators 
none of these aids are required; the berries as 
they swell lift one another up, and the clusters 
thus remain compact. Care should be taken not 
to make the bunches too thin, as when that is 
done they are so loose when cut as to spread 
“ all over the dish/’ They should be so thinned, 
that when ripe and cut the bunch or cluster may 
remain firm and compact, whilst every berry has 
been allowed to develop itself freely to its full 
size. Very expert hands may be able to thin a 
bunch properly at one operation—small bunches 
may easily be so done; but as a general rule 
they require to be gone over twice before the ston¬ 
ing period, and once after, during what is termed 
the “second swelling,” in order to remove all small 
berries, and otherwise regulate the bunches. 


Mulching Strawberries.— Hay is very 
objectionable on account of the quantity of 
seeds that it brings into the garden, as well as 
the rapidity with which it decays, especially in 
such seasons as the past two have been in many 
parts. Short Grass or the mowings of the lawn 
are preferable, but better than all is short 6table 
litter. Tan answers very well where it can be 
had for the carting.—W. P. R. 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extract* from, a Garden Diary—June 25 to 
June BO. 

Sowing Canadian Wonder and Long-podded Negro 
French Beans. Stopping and nailing in shoots of To¬ 
matoes. Taking up early Ash-leaf Kidney Potatoes and 
spreading them out in the sun to ripen well for early 
crops next season. Mulching Morello Cherries and 
watering them. Putting out main crop of Celery. Chilles, 
and Chervil. Putting in cuttings of Poinsettias. Removing 
superfluous shoots from espalier Pear trees. Sowing 
Early Hern Carrots and red and white Turnip Radishes. 
Mulching late Peas with rotten manure, and well water¬ 
ing them. Thinning out Chicory, Dandelion, 8alsafy, 
and Scorzonera. Planting out Lettuce and Endive ; also 
Marjorum and Sweet Basil. Watering all newly-planted 
Broccoli and Brussels Spronts; taking nets off early 
Cherries and putting them over Currant bushes to pro¬ 
tect them from birds. Turning over gravel walks where 
covered with Mob*, to give them a fresh appearance. 
Planting May-sown Lettuce and Snow's White Broccoli. 
Putting in Heliotrope cuttings to make plants for winter 
flowering. Digging land for late Peas and Broccoli. 

Putting Amaryllises in the sun to ripen their bulbs. 
Sowing All the Year Round, the Favourite, and Giant 
White Cos Lettuces; also Green Curled and Batavian 
Endive. Potting first batch of Strawlierries for forcing. 
Planting out Celery and Cardoons. Giving Asparagus 
beds a light dressing of salt. Mulching aud watering Peach 
trees on walls. Planting Autumn Giant Cauliflower and 
Savoys. Taking up Hyacinth bulba and drying and 
storing them. Nailing in Peach, Plum, and Pear tree 
shoots. Sowing Omega and Ne Plus Ultra Peas. Potting 
on small plants of Dracwnas and Pandanus Veitchi for 
table use. Planting out Cauliflowers and late Broccoli. 
Giving early Celery a little earthing; also Leeks. Sowing 
Early Snowball and American Strap-leaf Turnips. Plant¬ 
ing out a four-light pit with Tender and True Cucumbers. 
Putting Chrysanthemums in their flowering pots. 
Sowing late crop of Broad Beans; also MicDonette for 
autumn flowering. Putting in cuttings of choice Pelar¬ 
goniums. Drawing drills for Turnips, and well watering 
them previous to sowing. Nailing in leading shoots on 
Apricot and Plum trees. Giving Peach trees in early 
house from which the fruit has been gathered a good 
washing with soft soap, sulphur, and Quassia-chip 
water, to keep down insects. Potting Selsginellas for 
conservatory decoration, and putting young Vines into 
10-inch pots. Planting a border with Ten-week Stocks 
and Asters. Looking over Gooseberry bushes and 
destroying caterpillars. Putting all spring-flowering 
bulbs that are dried off into hampers and storing them 
away in a cool place; hoeing among Onions, Carrots, and 
Beetroot. 

Glasshouses. 

Pelargoniums.—Z onal varieties wanted for 
flowering in winter should be treated as to in¬ 
sure the pots getting well filled with roots, and 
the whole growth thoroughly matured before 
autumn; this is of much more consequence than 
studying to get the plants large, os if at all in 




182 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[June 23, 1883. 


a soft, over vigorous condition, they will run oil 
to leaf-growth as soon as subjected to warmth 
in place of flowering. To avoid t his, all young 
stock for winter blooming should be at once 
moved to the pots they are intended to occupy 
and free growth encouraged, after which they 
ought to be placed out-of-doors in an open situa¬ 
tion under the full influence of the sun, and 
kept there until there is danger from frost. 
The earliest flowered portion of the stock, such 
as the London market growers cultivate, 
should, as soon as they have bloomed, be 
fully exposed out-of-doors so as to ripen 
up the growth previous to heading them back ; 
if this be done in good time they will break into 
growth, and can be repotted sufficiently early to 
admit of their gaining the needful strength be¬ 
fore autumn. 

Salvias. —These, if grown in pots, ought to 
be moved into those they are to flower in ; the 
size the plants are required to grow to will de¬ 
termine the amount of root room they should 
have. The pots ought to be plunged in ashes, 
choosing a position where they will be sheltered 
from rongh winds, but still where plenty of 
light will reach them; stop the shoots as often 
a3 may be found necessary, and never allow the 
plants to want for water, otherwise the foliage 
is sure to be injured. 

Azaleas. —The growth of these must, now be 
regulated. If those that flowered first are 
wanted to bloom next season earlier than 
hitherto, and the bnds are not yet prominent, 
they must be kept for some time longer in a 
house or pit in which a close atmosphere can be 
secured in the after part of the day by closing 
the ventilators early. Such plants as bloomed 
later should now be encouraged to make growth 
by placing them where a sufficient temperature 
can be kept up. Syringe freely every day when 
the house is closed to keep down thrips, and if 
these or red spider cannot be kept under by 
syringing with clean water alone, the plants 
should be dipped or syringed with Tobacco- 
water, which, although taking more time than 
fumigating, is nevertheless much preferable, as 
I have never been able to use as much Tobacco 
smoke as would destroy the thrips without in¬ 
juring the leaves. All that have bloomed late 
and are in want of more root room should now 
have a shift. Azaleas do not begin to make 
roots until after they have pushed a good amount 
of shoot growth, and just after this has com¬ 
menced is much the best time to pot them. They 
do with considerably less root space than most 
hard-wooded stock, but like to be encouraged 
either with manure water or some of the con¬ 
centrated manures now so much used. 

Oleanders (Neriums). — The individual 
blooms of these easily-grown plants much re¬ 
semble those of perpetual-flowering Carnations, 
and are little inferior to them for cutting, a 
purpose for which they are in every way adapted. 
Their erect habit of growth is somewhat against 
them, but where large, well-furnished specimens 
exist, with suitable treatment they can be turned 
to good account. Large examples of this de¬ 
scription should now be placed out-of-doors in a 
sunny position, where their further growth will 
be somewhat checked. If treated in this way 
and supplied with water enough to enable their 
bloom-buds to set, shoots taken off with about 
half-a-dozcn joints will strike readily and make 
nice flowering stock in 5-inch or (i-inch pots. 
Young plants propagated from small shoots and 
grown on in little pots should now also be fully 
exposed to the sun in the open air. Unless 
Neriums are so managed there is no way of 
insuring their blooming satisfactorily, as they 
keep on growing and do not get their growth 
properly ripened. Medium-sized examples that 
have bloomed late, and that are required to be 
kept low and bush}’, may now be well shortened 
hack, and as soon as they have broken afresh 
should, if necessary, receive a shift. They will 
thrive in any kind of soil, but moderately strong 
loam seems to encourage a disposition to flower. 

Camellias. —The earliest flowering plants 
arc best grown in pots, as thus treated they can 
be moved about as occasion requires in order to 
accelerate or retard their blooming. Any that 
have already got their buds as far advanced as 
may be desirable should be placed in cooler 
quarters, but until in this condition they must 
not be moved out of warmth, as when once the 
excitement consequent on their being in heat is 
stopped they will not bear forcing subsequently; 

Digitized by GOUglC 


therefore it is well to note their condition. All 
that had their growth retarded by late flowering 
should have sufficient shade to protect their 
young tender leaves from sunshine, byringe 
freely once a day, and see that the roots are 
kept well moistened, a matter to which it is 
necessary to pay particular attention. 

Cutting back hard-wooded plants.— 
There are some hard-wooded plants that require 
a free use of the knife every season immediately 
after they have done flowering, otherwise they 
soon get into such a loose straggling state as to 
be worthless. Amongst these are Polygalas, 
Pimeleas, Epacrises, Correas, Acacias, and others 
possessing a similar habit—plants, in short, that 
annually make shoots of considerable length, 
and which, if a good part is not well cut back, 
cannot be kept within bounds. From one-half 
to two-thirds the length of shoots made last 
summer should bo removed, after which the 
plants ought to be encouraged to make growth 
by placing them in a house or pit where they 
can be kept closer than in an ordinary green¬ 
house and be syringed overhead in the even¬ 
ings. 

SOLANUMS. —The berry-bearing kinds of these 
are most useful when managed so as to induce 
them to come on in succession. If a portion of 
the stock has been treated as already directed, 
they will now be furnished with fruit that will 
have sufficient time to become fully coloured by 
the end of September, from which time to the 
close of the year they are most serviceable for 
associating with the comparatively few flowering 
plants that can then be had in bloom. Those 
later iD flowering will follow the first, and if well 
attended to, will colour their berries towards 
the close of the year. To have these Solanums 
iu presentable condition, their leaves must be in a 
healthy green state, as if at all deficient in this 
respect they are uninviting in appearance; to 
insure this, as the pots are now full of roots, they 
must have unremitting attention in the way of 
supplying water, and they should also have 
liquid manure once a fortnight.—T. B. 

Roses. —Where Roses are trained on the roofs 
or back walls of conservatories or greenhouses 
they are often found to thrive well for a few 
years, and then to get into a stunted, weak 
condition, making little growth, and equally un¬ 
satisfactory in flowering; frequently the cause of 
this is an insufficiency of manure regularly 
applied as the roots exhaust it. When Roses are 
grown under glass, the extra warmth they 
receive, and the consequently much longer period 
in each year they are kept on in a growing state, 
tend to tax the roots proportionately more, and 
unless tlie soil is kept constantly supplied with 
the requisite enriching materials the growth 
necessarily becomes weak, rendering the plants 
an easy prey to insects that invariably attack 
weak growth. Another cause of insufficient bloom 
is the want of enough thinning out of the weak 
shoots, whereby the energiesof the plants,instead 
of being directed to the support of a moderate 
number of shoots that would grow to a size able 
to produce a crop of flowers, are spent in the pro¬ 
duction of weak, useless wood unable to bloom. 
Roses when grown indoors, as they are in the 
open air, are gross feeding plants, that, more¬ 
over, generally are subjected to a free use of the 
knife, and to avoid their getting into the con¬ 
dition described must have very much more 
manure given them than would be sufficient for 
almost any other kind of plants cultivated under 
glass, and after the principal flowering is over 
they should have all the useless wood cut out 
and a considerable portion of the old strong 
shoots annually well shortened hack ; in this 
way they make through the summer new wood 
that w ill not fail to flower the ensuing season. 
With that favourite climber Marfclial Niel it is 
more necessary to follow this treatment yearly 
than in the case of most others. One of the most 
successful growers of this variety, who has the 
roof of a very large house completely covered 
with several plants, cuts tiiem all back each 
spring after blooming almost as close as Vines 
in winter after they have been pruned. As 
regards this splendid Rose, under all conditions, 
either where grafted, budded, or on its own 
roots, it is so short lived that it becomes neces¬ 
sary to put in young plants at intervals of three 
or four years, so that they may take the place of 
those that go off. In winter, before growth 
begins, is the best time to add new soil and 
manure, but where the plants are at all weak 


they should now at once be assisted by heavy 
top dressings of manure—over which for appeal- 
ance sake 1 inch of fine soil may be spread; this 
will be washed down to the roots in the process 
of watering, which, with dilligent attention as 
regards keeping them clear frona insects, w r ill 
maintain the requisite strength. 

Flower Garden. 

Mixed flowi:k borders. —The most showy 
and most useful flowers for cutting in our bor¬ 
ders at the present time are i’yrethrums and 
Columbines, the yellow and bronze coloured 
flowers of the lat ter being the most novel and 
pleasing. The Pyrethrums, both single ami 
double, range in colour from deep crimson to 
pure white, and in a cut state keep fresh for a 
longer period than any other flowers I know of; 
their merits are such as to justify their extended 
culture. These and many others now need staking 
and tying, but it should be done as loosely as 
the safety of the flower-stems and plants will 
admit of. Weeds should be kept down and this 
surface-soil broken, particularly about Dahlias, 
Hollyhocks, and sub-tropical plants lately 
planted for autumn effect. Old-established 
plants do not need these details of culture; 
indeed, many thrive best when left for years in 
an undisturbed state, or with only such atten¬ 
tion as to curtailment of growth as shall prevent 
their injuring adjoining plants. Asters, Stocks, 
and Phlox Drummondi suffering from the at¬ 
tacks of aphides should be syringed with soap¬ 
suds two or three evenings in succession, and 
then well washed with clear water. The best 
bait for slugs is bran, to which they go reartily, 
and may be caught in the act of feeding any¬ 
time after dusk or very early in the morning. 
Plenty of soot and lime thrown about does much 
to keep them at bay, but rain soon renders both 
inoperative, hence my partiality for the bran 
baits. 

Pinks. —This is now the best time to put in 
pipings. The smallest growths strike root most 
freely, and if the weather is dull and showery at 
the time when they are taken off, they may be 
put in a shady position quite in the open ground. 
It is rather more difficult to propagate the Pink 
in the south than in the north, and in dry, 
sunny weather it is best to place the pipings in 
boxes, and to strike them on a very mild hotbed. 
They must be shaded from the sun until roots 
are formed. 

Pansies. —It is a good plan to put in some 
cuttings now to form a late autumn bec3. If it 
is intended to have good flowers for an exhibi¬ 
tion or other purpose on a given date, pinch off 
all the flowers that are open or nearly so— 
indeed, even buds that are showing colour— 
about a fortnight before the date on which they 
are required. No flower degenerates more rapidly 
than Pansies, and the only way to maintain 
them in good condition is to occasionally denude, 
them of flowers and apply surface-dressings to 
the beds. 

Asters and Stocks. —Successional plants of 
these may be planted out, and by putting in 
a later batch the bloom may be kept up further 
in the season. Asters, especially, are so useful 
for cutting that it is desirable to have them as 
late as they can be had. 

Gladioli.— If hot dry weather should set in 
immediately mulch the beds with rotten manure, 
and apply water freely if thought needful. It 
is also necessary to place sticks to the plants in 
the earliest stages of the spikes, as the broad 
leaves are much acted upon by gales of wind, 
and if the roots get loosened the plants soon 
fall over. 

Tulips. —The roots of these onght to be lifted 
at once and stored in a dry place until planting 
time. Regular Tulip growers have drawers 
fitted with boxes, divided into compartments, 
into which each variety is placed and numbered. 
AVe simply lift the roots and clean them, placing 
each variety in a small flower-pot, which is 
stored in a dry loft, and thus managed they keep 
in good condition until planting time. 

General work. —This consists in pegging 
down bedding plants and freeing them from 
useless flowers, mulching with Cocoa fibre 
the smaller plants, and keeping the ground about 
the larger kinds open by frequent stirring. Cal¬ 
ceolarias, Violas, and Verbenas enjoy ;■ rich 
mulching of cow manure or horse droppings; 
such coverings keep them in vigorous growth 
and bloom during the hottest weather. Clipping 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




Jfne 23, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


183 



edgings and ground-work of Sedums, Herniaria, 
Mentha, and the like, will also now' be engaging 
attention, also turf edgings and verges, mowing, 
vetoing, and after rain rolling walks. W. W. 

SHErBBERiES. —Owing to the multiplicity of 
operations that at this sea-on demand attention, 
shrubberies are apt to get neglected, and Nettles, 
Thistles, Dandelions, and other weeds are 
allowed to run to seed. Of course this only 
happens in places where labour is restricted, 
and where something must- he left undone; 
though, taking into consideration the after con¬ 
sequences, such weeds as these should not be 
overlooked, for even if time for hoeing or hand- 
seeding cannot be spared, they may very quickly 
be prevented from seeding by roughly going 
ever them with a rip-hook till such time as 
proper attention can be devoted to the work; 
then the plants should be cleared of all seed 
vessels and dead branches, irregular growths 
shortened back, and suckers removed. Clema¬ 
tises and other climbers should be secured te 
their supports. Ordinary Pea sticks, placed in 
a slightly leaning triangular form, make excel¬ 
lent supports for shrubbery climbers. Lately 
moved plants should be re-mulched, and if 
necessary soaked with water. Turf verges should 
be closely cut, and any vacant spaces near the 
front planted with such biennials as Snap¬ 
dragons, Canterbury Bells, and Sweet Williams. 

Fruit. 

Early Grapes. —When all the Grapes have 
been cut from the early Vines, add a little fresh 
mulching to the borders if they have suffered, 
and keep the roots moderately supplied with 
weak liquid manure to start a flush of laterals, 
but guard against carrying feeding to an excess 
that will force a vigorous growth, and so exhaust 
the Vines after the wood is ripe. Keep the 
strongest laterals pinched to balance the flow of 
sap, and preserve all the old foliage by good 
stringing every evening, or as often as the state 
of the weather may render atmospheric moisture 
necessary. 

JIid-season GRArES.—Vineries in which the 
Grapes are ripening may have more air by night 
and by day, with just sufficient fire-heat to keep 
the minimum temperature at 60°, and when the 
berries have attained their full size, the afternoon 
closing may be discontinued, particularly where 
the colouring process is not going on satis¬ 
factorily. If this house contains Madresfield 
Court Muscats, see that the borders are moist, 
tot not wet, mulch well with some loose non¬ 
conducting material, and allow all the laterals 
and leaders to grow until after the Grapes are 
cm. Spider has become more plentiful than is 
agreeable, and so rapidly does it spread under 
the bright and now powerful sun, that vigorous 
measures must be taken for keeping it in cheek. 
As almost everyone dreads the use of sulphur, 
timely sponging with soapy water, the applica¬ 
tion of clean soft water through a good syringe 
every night where it can be applied without 
:ooc’hing the Grapes, and generous culture, 
separately or combined, while helping the crop, 
will tell most decidedly against the enemy. 

-TEAWBEERiES. — The forcing of these is 
barely over, and yet preparation must forthwith 
be made for that of another season. IVc always 
iaver our first Strawberries in 5-inch pots, in 
which tliev are allowed to fruit, and in which they 
do rnnch better than those layered at the same 
time in larger pots, the reason being that the 
pots get sooner crowded with roots, and this 
induces earlier ripening of the crowns, which, 
as a matter of course, must fruit earlier than 
they otherwise would do, and as they are forced 
at a doll and sunless period of the year, no 
inconvenience arises from their requiring to be 
watered oftener than those in larger pots. We 
iaver the general stock in 3-inch pots, and as 
scon as the roots reach the sides of the pot we 
shift into 6-inch pots. The best soil is 
moderately stiff loam without any admixture, 
iicept a small proportion of bone-dust or horn 
shavings. Careful crocking, to admit of free 
:':rinago, is imperative, as is also firm potting. 
After potting, place the plants in an open 
position, well supply them with water, and keep 
all runners picked off as soon as they are pro¬ 
heed. 

IlARDY FKVJT. —Go over Peaches and Nec- 
• arises, and if the fruit is still too thick remove 
core as also superfluous shoots, but on no ac- 
veunt take away too much leaf, for in the 

Digitized by GOOgle 


season this is worse in its effects upon the trees 
than the opposite extreme of neglecting to 
disbud them. Continue to use the garden engine 
or syringe two or three times a week, wetting the 
under sides of the leaves. If this is attended to 
little injury will be done by thrips and red 
spider, the worst enemies these fruits are affected 
by, and which not only materially injure the 
present crop, but weaken the trees, thereby 
seriously affecting them in after years. These 
fruits will be benefited by mulching the ground 
with half-rotten manure. This is easily applied 
where the borders are not cropped with anything 
over the roots. Keep the hoe at work amongst 
bush fruits, so as to destroy weeds as they appear. 
It sometimes happens that there is negligence in 
this respect, under the impression that the bushes 
do not suffer from the presence of weeds as 
culinary vegetable crops do. So far as inter¬ 
mediate effects go this may be the case, but, 
wherever they are allowed to grow, they exhaust 
the soil much more than ordinary cultivated 
plants do; and to let any part of a garden be¬ 
come foul is simply a direct waste of the manure 
used, of which even bush fruit stands in need, 
although not to the same extent as vegetables. 
It is well to observe that if any portion of the 
garden, however small, be allowed to become a 
nursery for weeds, the seeds will be scattered by 
the wind in all directions, and will cause endless 
trouble afterwards, whilst the pleasure derived 
from the appearance alone of an orderly, well- 
kept garden is worth consideration and all the 
care that can be bestowed upon it. 

Vegetables. 

It frequently happens that at the time of pre¬ 
paring the ground there may have been a 
scarcity of manure, of which some crops have not 
received a sufficient quantity. Where this has 
been the case, make up the deficiency by the 
timely application of liquid manure. This should 
take place at the middle stages of growth after 
the plants have taken a fair hold of the soil and 
are growing away freely, and when strength will 
be imparted at the time it is most required. It 
is, however, necessary to be cautious in the use 
of manure water; it must not be applied too 
strong, for plants, unlike animals, have not the 
power of rejecting the food that is given them, 
which in a liquid state goes direct to the roots, 
and is of necessity absorbed by them, even if 
their destruction be the result. If manure of a 
solid character—such, for instance, as that of 
fowls m a crude state, or guano that is lumpy 
and insufficiently broken—be dug into the soil, 
the case is somewhat different; the roots will 
not enter it, but will run in other directions to 
escape, as it were, the dangerous diet set before 
them. A little reflection upon the nature of the 
particular plant to which manure water is to be 
applied will, in a great measure, be a safer guide 
as to the strength of the solution it is able to 
bear. As a rule, rampant-growing subjects will 
stand a much stronger mixture than weak 
growers—Rhubarb, for instance, being benefited 
by it at a strength that would injure Teas. 
Runner Beans may receive it stronger than the 
weaker-growing dwarf varieties ; but in all cases 
it is better to be on the safe side, and rather 
make the solution too weak than too strong. A 
little Parsley should now be sown on well- 
prepared rich ground; sow in rows 15 inches 
apart. This will not be disposed to run to seed 
so soon in the spring as that which was put in 
earlier. Thin out the early-sown plants, leaving 
them 9 inches or 10 inches asunder. If this is at¬ 
tended to in time, there will be little to fear from 
canker at the root, which usually occurs when 
the plants are overcrowded. When Parsley is 
given sufficient room, it can be kept through the 
winter with half the trouble and much greater 
certainty than where it is starved and weakly. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

A VERY gay appearance should now be made by 
nearly all kinds of plants, both indoors and out; 
if the garden does not look well now, it never 
will. The weather, at least around London, has 
been very dry and trying to the freshly planted 
bedding stuff, but if the soil was in good condi¬ 
tion and the hose, garden engine, or watering 
pot have been liberally employed once or twice 
a day, the plants ought now to be growing nicely 
and flowering freely. After so dry and hot a 
period as we have been lately experiencing, 
plants in deeply worked and richly manured 


ground will present a wonderful contrast to those 
in a poor shallow soil. 

Pinks are now in full bloom, and Carnations 
rapidly advancing; the latter will do admirably 
anywhere if the soil is fairly good, but the 
former will only prove satisfactory in suburban 
gardens. Carnations should be carefully tied up 
to neat stakes, and a few doses of guano or some 
other good liquid manure will assist the blooms 
greatly. Both the common and Giant Thrift are 
now flowering; these are among the hardiest and 
best of all town plants. 

Attend well to freshly planted Dahlias, keeping 
them well watered, placing a strong stake to 
each plant, and setting traps for earwigs, which 
are most destructive to these plants. Castor- 
oils and other tall-growiDg tropical subjects 
must also be abundantly supplied with water and 
carefully supported by strong but neat stakes and 
ties. 

In the greenhouse Zonal Geraniums, Pelar¬ 
goniums, Calceolarias, Petunias, early Fuchsias, 
&.C., should make a fine show. Admit abundance 
of air, particularly early in the morning, on 
warm nights, and on Sundays, when the air is 
so much purer than during working hours. 
Fuchsias should now all be in the pots in which 
they are to bloom ; shade them from strong sun¬ 
shine, syriDge overhead frequently, and shut up 
the house, if only for an hour or two, about four 
o’clock in the afternoon, to induce them to grow 
strongly and rapidly. Chrysanthemums should 
now be placed in 7-inch or 8-inch pots and 
plunged in an open position out of doors; the 
middle of next month is, we consider quite early 
enough to place them in their flowering pots. 
Keep the shoots carefully trained and tied to 
neat stakes as they grow. 

Plants in windows must be abundantly 
watered, both at the root and overhead, and a 
dose of liquid manure twice a week will greatly 
prolong their period of flowering. B. C. R. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


SEASIDE SHRUBS. 

The value of some plants as ornamental 
subjects is greatly augmented by the fact of 
their flourishing in situations where few others 



would thrive ; for instance, the number of 
shrubs that succeed when exposed to salt spray 
is but limited, and on that account the few that 
do thrive well under such circumstances are 
doubly valuable from a planter’s point, of view. 
Such is the Tamarisk (Tamarix gallica), a 
vigorous-growing shrub, producing long, feathery 
branches terminated during summer by loose 
open panicles of small reddish flowers. This 
I shrub delights in a deep sandy soil well supplied 
I with moisture, requirements frequently met with 
near the sea, and for such places it is indispens- 
I able. This and the Furve form fine bushes even- 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 




184 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[June 23, 1883, 


on the most easterly parts of the coast of Suffolk. 
A little known species of Tamarix is that 
represented in the annexed woodcut. It is the 
T. tetrandra, which is, we believe, a Caucasian 
shrub. It is quite as elegant as the common 
T. gallica, and flowers later, which is its chief 
value. It is little known apparently in this 
country, though it can no doubt be obtained at 
good tree nurseries near the sea—Stansfleld & 
Sons, of Southport, for example. A near ally to 
the Tamarisk, and one that succeeds well under 
similar conditions, is the German Tamarisk 
(Tamarix or Myricaria germanica), a slender 
upright-growing shrub, which bears great general 
resemblance to the foregoing, but which only 
attains about one-half its height and has 
longer leaves. The Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae 
rhamnoides) is another shrub well adapted for 
planting in the most exposed spots, as strong 
winds off the see have but little effect upon it; 
indeed, the beautiful silvery appearance of its 
foliage is much heightened when stirred by the 
breeze. Besides the glistening white colour of 
the foliage during the autumn, it becomes laden 
with bright orange-coloured berries, and when 
in that state is remarkably handsome. The 
Sea Buckthorn is a large prickly shrub, which, 
under favourable conditions, becomes almost 
a tree. The tree Purslane (Atriplex Halimus) 
is a loose, rambling plant, with brittle, 
half woody branches and silvery leaves; of 
little beauty when grown under ordinary 
conditions, but by the seaside, where plenty of 
moisture exists, a really valuable shrub; it suc¬ 
ceeds perfectly in such places, and forms fine 
masses totally indifferent to the salt spray. Of 
this there is a smaller kind, a native of Britain, 
viz., A. portulacoides, bnt it is insignificant com¬ 
pared with the preceding. Among other subjects 
fit for seaside planting, but requiring to be a 
little sheltered from the full force of the wind 
and spray, may he named many of the Legumi- 
nosie, as, for instance, the Spanish Broom, the 
Laburnum, the white Broom, Halimodendron 
argenteum, and the Colnteas. These are among 
the must suitable, while, under like conditions, 
the Elder, Box Thom (Lycium europfcnm), the 
Tree Groundsel (Baccharis halimifolia), and the 
various kinds of Lilacs will also thrive. 

Among evergreens mention may be made of 
the different varieties of Euonymus japonicus, 
the Arbutus, Laurustinus, and Portugal Laurels, 
while trees that may be specially noticed doing 
well near the sea are the Evergreen Oak, Aus¬ 
trian Pine, the Cluster Pine (P. Pinaster), the 
Mountain Ash, and Cupressus. All the above 
are well-tried subjects and sure to succeed in 
almost all positions. For planting on the 
southern coast there is a much wider range to 
choose from. Even Veronicas there make useful 
seaside shrubs, and the same may be said of 
Fuchsias, the lemon-scented Verbena (Aloysia 
citriodora), Myrtles, and the Pittosporums, 
which form handsome bushes, while by far the 
finest plant of the beautiful white Heath-like 
flowered Fabiana imbricata that has ever come 
under my observation was growing in a small 
garden close to the sea on the coast of Devon. 
There it formed a large bush, and when in full 
flower was most conspicuous. H. P. 


RHODODENDRONS NEGLECTED. 

9793.—The common Rhododendron is another 
of the “ amateur’s friends ” which continues to 
live and grow on in some shape or other in spite 
of neglect and ill-treatment. Every one knows 
it as the most useful shrub we have, and in this 
district it is by far the most common one, 
although the soil is a poor clay, and not well 
suited for that class of plants. Almost every 
villa here has two or more in the front garden 
plot, but for every one that is well grown there 
are twenty that are only poor, thin, starved- 
looking things, with some long, straggling 
branches and a few leaves. It is a pity to see 
such a good and useful shrub, and one so capable 
of being made really ornamental, allowed to 
get into such a shabby state, more particularly 
when it can be so easily grown in two or three 
years into a good shape, at a very small cost 
and with little trouble. If the amateur who 
has not much experience in growing shrubs 
would examine the root of the Rhododendron, 
he would find that it differs in shape from that 
of almost every other shrub, and he would be 
able to see how easily it can be lifted, handled, 
and replanted again without injury, and that, 

Digitized by GOOgle 


with certain precautions, at almost any season 
of the year. 

Instead of long, penetrating, or spreading 
roots, like those of most other shrubs, the 
Rhododendron has a round clump of close¬ 
growing fibres, which seldom extend themselves 
to any great distance beyond the surface of the 
clump. These fibres grow strongest in the 
direction in which the greatest amount of 
nourishment is being got. If, when re-planting 
takes place, the clump be placed in suitable 
soil, which will completely envelope it, the 
growth of the fibres will be uniform all round, 
and the clump will ultimately assume a round 
or somewhat elongated globular shape, but if 
fresh soil or manure be merely dug in at the 
sides as the plant is growing, the shape of the 
clnmp will be determined by the kind of soil 
each part of its surface comes in contact with. 
We have therefore got roots of all shapes, some 
flat and spreading, showing want of depth of 
good soil; some long, and all to one side, showing 
that the good soil has been unequally distributed 
round the roots, whilst others have raised them¬ 
selves considerably above the surface of the 
ground, showing that the effects of the annual 
surface digging or top-dressing have probably 
reached only the upper part of the clump. 

If Rhododendrons are not thriving they may 
be lifted in mild weather—say in February or 
March, just before the growth commences. If 
the branches are long and straggling they may 
be all cut down to within 6 inches or 9 inches 
of the root. A hole should be dug for each 
plant, say, in wi 1 th about four times the thick¬ 
ness of the root clump, and two feet deep, and 
filled up with ordinary good friable garden soil, 
well mixed with old manure. The root is sunk 
in the middle of this, and must be kept moist 
during dry weather. If the Rhododendrons are 
in a clump, the ground about the roots should be 
kept clear of grass and weeds until they are 
able to smother them by their own growth. The 
process of lifting and replanting may be repeated 
whenever the Rhododendrons show signs of 
going back; but even in poor soils this should 
not happen for four or five years at least. These 
remarks do not apply to the finer kinds of 
hybrid Rhododendrons which require a soil 
more carefully compounded, and more liberal 
supplies of manure, to induce flowering. 

P. R. 


9853.— Azaleas and Rhododendrons. 

—Not even in the best soil and by the most ex¬ 
pert growers is it always possible to ensure an 
annual good bloom on these plants, although a 
good bloom is the rule. If the soil be good 
enough to produce good shoots it seems hardly 
probable that lack of bloom arises from that 
cause; indeed, it may he that the plants are 
so heavily bloomed one year that they are in¬ 
capable of forming bloom buds the same season. 
Again, seasons so far vary that the young wood is 
not always so strong, nor does it always become so 
well matured. If in this particular case it is found 
that poorness of soil is the cause of the periodi¬ 
cal non-blooming, it will be well to add a good 
mulching of short rotten manure to the surface 
annually, which may in the autumn be forked in, 
as, if left for the winter, the birds will scratch it 
all over the place. A fresh mulching may be 
added again in the spring.— A. 


VEGETABLES. 


SUMMER LETTUCES. 

IT demands some forethought and considerable 
attention to produce crisp, well-flavoured Let¬ 
tuces throughout the summer, whatever the 
weather may be. In very hot, dry summers 
partial failures and blanks in the supply are apt 
to occur, sometimes caused by circumstances 
over which the grower has but little control, but 
oftener through mismanagement. 'Where a good 
supply of water exists, and the necessary labour 
for applying it when needed is at command, 
Lettuce culture in summer is a labour of love; 
but in many, indeed in the major portion of 
gardens, these favourable conditions are not to 
be found. The Parisian market growers, under 
a more cloudless sky than our own, find no real 
difficulty in producing crisp, delicately flavoured 
salads, even when rain has not fallen for many 
days; but they have as much water as they re¬ 
quire, and they do not grudge labour in applying 
it. With them the more sun the better the I 


flavour, as, the roots being in rich soil which !l 
is kept almost at saturation point, growth is * 
made at a rapid rate. Radishes, too, are grown 
in like manner, mostly on spent hotbeds, so that 
in Paris one may get them as tender in a time 
of prolonged drought as they are with us in i 
early spring; whereas the samples of this 
esculent that one sees in the London markets 
after some ten days of hot, dry summer weather 
are perfectly hard. 

Preparing tub soil.— If we cannot imitate 3 
the French growers in one respect, we may in 
another; if we cannot give our plants so much 
water as we would like, we can give them plenty 
of good food; and where the soil is light and 
parched, we can deepen it, and cover it with a 
mulch of some kind. It is during J uly and August 
that the greatest difficulty is experienced in ob¬ 
taining well-hearted, delicately flavoured Let¬ 
tuces ; and it is just at that time that they are, 
as a rule, most needed. I have grown summer 
salads in a much hotter and drier climate than 
our own, and I never found much difficulty in 
keeping up the supply when I devoted a piece of 
ground to them. The Lettuce likes a rich free 
good soil, but I am inclined to the belief that it 
has a dislike to rank manure. If I bad to sow 
or plant directly after manuring, I would, if 
possible, use only mere rotten manure, preferring 
the clearing out of hot-beds, as this can be very 
liberally applied; and where the natural staple 
is close and heavy, haking hard in dry weather, 
it acts beneficially in more ways than one. In 
the case of sandy, light loamy, or free soil, there 
is no need to touch it much before March; but 
where one has to deal with stiff lcam, verging 
perhaps on clay, I would throw it up into rough 
ridges early in autumn, or by the beginning of 
October at the latest. The good that ridging up 
in winter does to soils which do not crumble 
readily at the touch of the fork is incalculable; 
allowed to remain thus through March, the good 
effects of it are still more marked. Choosing 
a dry day after rain, the ground should be 
levelled, breaking each lump, and later on 
digging in a good dressing of manure. If 
fresh Btable manure is employed, it ought to 
be employed in April, but in a more de¬ 
composed state any time up to June might do. 
Light porous soils, especially where a “ pan ” or 
layer of hard matter exists a foot or so under the 
surface, should be well broken up to a depth of 
18 inches or more, or there will be but little 
chance of carrying a crop t hrough without “ bolt¬ 
ing ” in periods of severe drought. 

Sowing. —After the end of May we would 
never think of transplanting Lettuces, as so 
doing involves a considerable amount of labour, 
for which there are no compensating advantages, 
excepting perhaps the Baving of a little seed; 
and the results are in every way inferior to 
those secured by simply thinning out to the re¬ 
quired distance when the young plants have got 
into the rough leaf. In sowing, a favourite way 
of mine is to draw a broad drill with a hoe about 
3 inches deep, sowing the seed in the centre of 
it. Should the weather prove very dry, I water 
the drills, sow the seed immediately, and cover 
it in the usual manner, and then with some litter 
or old mats, protect the drill from hot sun. I 
know then that in ten days I shall get almost 
every seed up—that is, if it can be relied on for 
freshness. Some watchfulness is, of course, 
necessary, so that the covering is withdrawn 
the instant the plants appear. Many thin 
out to the distance required for the develop¬ 
ment oi full-sized Lettuces at once; but this 
is by no means the way to make the most 
of the ground and the seed. By leaving 
them -1 inches apart, every other one may be 
drawn when rather less than half grown, and, 
although not so tender as the heart of a ma¬ 
tured plant, they will be found sufficiently good 
to prove useful in many ways. A succession is 
only to be kept up by continuous sowings from 
June to September, at intervals of ten days, the 
quantity sown to be regulated by the wants of 
the household. 

Mulching. —This is almost indispensable on 
light soils, and is a great help in all cases, as it 
keeps the ground cool, and saves the water-pot. 
It is well to allow the plants to get several 
inches high before applying it, as the hoe can 
then be used about them. Littery manure is 
certainly the best kind of mulch, as it serves two 
purposes, protecting the roots and feeding them, 

I but any light non-conducting material will do, 


23, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


185 


U sweepings from the lawn not being at all 
bad for the purpose, though these must be laid 
wttiekly. 

Varieties. —There are so many kinds in cal- 
tiration now that it is impossible to indicate one 
is being the best. Most growers have their 
favourite, and possibly soil and situation exercise 
•one influence on Lettuces, as on other things. 
One cannot err in taking Paris White Cos for 
tie main crop; it comes large enough and has 
nay other good qnality. But if something more 
inporing is in request, there are Kingsholm Cos 
and Alexandra Cos ; and in the way of Cabbage 
bods we have All the Year Round and hardy 
white Dutch, both of excellent quality. C. B. 


vegetables that they have given little thought to 
preserving them, and as every diverse kind of 
both sections need some diverse treatment, a 
big book might be written on the subject. The 
practice of keeping cut bunches of Grapes in 
bottles, for instance, can only be properly dealt 
with in a long chapter.—D. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

THE 8DMMER SNOWFLAKE. 

(LEUCOJUM .ESTIVl’M.) 

This is a handsome and gracefal plant, resem¬ 
bling a tall vigorous Snowdrop. It grows in 


9846.— Seedling Auriculae. —The chief 
reason why seed of the true show or stage Auri¬ 
culas is so scarce is found in the fact, first, that 
growers of these are very limited in number; 
and second, most of these remove from their 
plants all seed pods, except such few as may be 
needed for their own sowing, that the plants 
may not be distressed or weakened by producing 
seed. The majority of our show Auricula growers 
are amateurs, who think more of the future 
strength of their plants than they do of any profit 
arising from seed. Trade growers, who doubt¬ 
less save a little seed, are none the less anxious 
on that account and further, are much beset by 
theprevailingtendencyonthepart of the stems to 


Leeks.—These seldom get the attention 
which they deserve, considering the length of 
season during which they last, and how useful 
they are daring the spring months for various 
culinary purposes, when the crop of old Onions 
is getting exhausted, and the autumn-sown ones 
not yet of a size sufficient to render them fit for 
use. We sow in March for the first crop, and in 
April for those required late in the spring. A 
s«d bed a few yards square will supply abun¬ 
dance of plants fit for transplanting in June. 
We then select some ground t hat has been deeply 
cultivated and well enriched; we mark the rows 
oat in it 18 inches apart, and make large, deep 
holes the same distance asunder in the row. We 
then lift the plants carefully with their roots 
entire, and drop them into the holes so that their 
roots touch the bottom; only soil sufficient to 
cover the roots is put in, a good soaking of water 
is given, and the top part of the hole is left open. 
Thus treated, the plants quickly grow up, when 
the soil may be filled in about them gradually. 
Or a very good plan is to prepare trenches just 
the same as for Celery, and to plant from one to 
three rows in them, earthing up in the same 
manner as for Celery.—G. 


Thrips on Cucumbers.— Successive fumi¬ 
gations and frequent copious syringings are the 
most likely means to rid Cucumbers of thrips. 
The syringing should be done with a fine rose 
or distributor, and the operator should aim at 
those parts where the thrip is most numerous. 
In this way I have managed to keep the same 
plants from nine to twelve months tolerably free 
from spider and perfectly free from thrips.— 
W. P. R. 

9849.— Prices of vegetable crops, &o. 

-Somewhere about Is. 3d. per rod will probably 
"■rove to be the average price for trenching land 
ifaoat London. Necessarily the charge varies 
-'cording to nature of soil, and the depth to 
•inch it is to be trenched. As a rale, it is best 
» have such trenching done as day work, because 
i a good price be paid per rod for deep trench¬ 
er the work will be scamped, and so it will be 
: l „ low price be paid. There is no kind of piece- 
v-rk that so much needs close watching to see 
eat it is properly done as trenching. As to the 
■dative prices per acre for crops of Parsnips and 
iiutjarb, it is impossible that any one coaid 
- mrately give them. Both vegetables are 
lentifnl enough in their seasons, and are easily 
Town ; they also do well in the stiff soils that 
.t so abundant abont London. Parsnips none 
* less are little grown because found un- 
-c Stable, having regard to the limited demand 
x them, and the high charges for rent, rates 
cd labour near the Metropolis. Rhubarb is 
-ofitable or otherwise, just as it is early or 
-e, and is so strong and well protected that 
can be pushed up to make large sticks to 
■ ndie well quite early.—D. 

•83<5.— Insects In vegetables.— The in- 
<t* which come from a wooden fence are 
abtless woodlice and earwigs, both most diffi- 
- 1 to destroy because not amenable to the 
Ic-joo of soot, lime, or other pungent mixtures. 
I -ling water is usually found to be the only 
l-scroyer of these pests, and that is dangerous 
use if plants are near. If, however, there are 
me near the fence, it will be well to pour 
»drg water over it, and especially into all its 
srices, doi ng this twice or thrice to make it 
*vtuaL—D. 


sia.—Preserving fruit and vege- 

•dries. _It is very doubtful whether there is a 

Wk specially devoted to this branch of garden¬ 
ia ilthough some slight references may have 
he made to it here and there. Growers have 
“•a to much concerned al^uP^ing fri 


f gr(? 


The Summer .Snowflake (Leueojum acfttlvum). Life site. 


Drawn Jane 12, lwJ. 



good Boil 18 inches high, and is now in bloom in 
the hardy plant nurseries. Its flowers are pure 
white, the tip of each petal being tipped with 
green both inside and outside, drooping in a 
cluster of from four to eight blooms, each nearly 
an inch long. Its leaves, which appear before 
the flowers, are like those of the Daffodil. This 
plant is a native of Central and Southern 
Europe, but it is naturalised in Britain, and is 
found on the bank- of the Thames about Wool¬ 
wich and Greenwich, and in a few other places. 
It will grow freely in almost any soil, and is 
well worth growing in any garden. The flowers 
from which our engraving was prepared were 
sent to us by Mr. Ware, of Tottenham, and were 
very fine. The best times for planting are 
autumn and early spring. 


damp or rot off sometimes before the seed is ripe, 
and that same decay passing down the stalk 
and entering the plant will often destroy that 
also. Then again, if any growers raise seedlings 
— and most of them do—they would hardly take 
the trouble to sow seed of the divers edged 
cla-ses separately; besides. Auriculas are such 
erratic things that it does not by any means follow 
that the seedlings would partake of the habits 
of their progenitors. Again, the Auricula shows 
in its progeny a remarkable tendency to run 
back, and many of the seedlings, even from the 
finest sorts, prove to be awful rubbish. Very 
careful crossing may prevent this to a certain 
extent, but it is obvious that careful crossing 
will only be performed by growers when they have 
some special object of their own to serve That to 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 

















18G 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[June 23, 1883. 


very few new flowers crop up worthy to contend 
with the old kinds shows that first-class seedlings, 
even in the hands of the best growers,are indeed 
few and far between. Alpine kinds are produc¬ 
tive of better average quality in seedlings than 
show kinds are, but the finest quality of flower 
is found on the slowest growing plants ; indeed 
it takes two years, as a rule, to get them to 
bloom. Perhaps “ Cork ” may get what he w'ants 
from Mr. C. Turner, Royal Nursery, Slough, or 
at least something worth having as seedlings.— 
A. I). 

9857.— Anemone japonica.— The youDg 
plant 8 which spring up around old stools of 
Anemone japonica alba are suckers, for it is in 
that way the plants are increased. Roots are 
found to throw' off young growth freely, and 
these pieces lifted and dibbled out thickly in 
fresh good soil, and in a shady place, will soon 
grow into robust blooming plants. These Ane¬ 
mones do not seed, but they may- be increased 
rapidly as indicated.—A. 

9860.— Anemone coronaria. — Nothing 
can be simpler than the treatment of seedling! 
plants of Anemone coronaria. When the plants 
are as strong as they may be permitted to be in 
a box, lift them, and, separating each singly, 
dibble out into a bed, the soil of which has been 
deeply dug, well manured, and is well pul¬ 
verised. They should be about 6 inches apart 
in the rows, and the rows be 10 inches apart, so 
as to enable a small hoe to be got between 
them to keep dow’n weeds. If the soil be at all 
favourable, the plants should blcom well next 
spring. We have beds so treated from seed sown 
last J une that began to bloom in February, have 
bloomed grandly, and are still throwing up many 
very beautiful flowers.—A. 

9871.— Annual Candytufts.— The Con¬ 
tinental seed growers, such for instance as 
Uenaryq of Erfurt, offer some ten or twelve 
annual kinds, and our home houses several, all 
of the coronaria section. Of these, the finest are 
Carters carmine, Dunnett’s purple, the new large 
white, the crimson, and the new' cream coloured. 
None of these seem to have specific names, but 
are all designated by colours. There is, how¬ 
ever, a Tom Thumb strain as well, that includes 
several colours. The new and most beautiful 
Iberis gibraltarica hybrida may really T be treated 
almost as a biennial, though it is really peren¬ 
nial. It seeds freely, and blooms superbly the 
next spring if seed be sown early in May. Ten- 
oreana is anotherkind that comes freely from 
seed. Collections of really annual Candytufts 
may be obtained from any good seed house at 
about 3d. per packet, and as the seed germinates 
freely in the open ground, they form one of the 
easiest grown of hardy annuals.—A. D. 

9822.— Lily of the Valley not flower¬ 
ing. —The failure of Lily of the Valley' in 
flowering is generally caused simply' by neglect. 
When planted in any ordinary soil, particularly 
if in a somewhat damp one, the leaves almost 
always come up in such profusion as to lead to 
the belief that they' will be followed by a similar 
profusion of flowers, and great disappointment 
is felt when it is discovered that betwixt abund¬ 
ance of foliage and abundance of flowers there 
is really no necessary connection. The fact is 
that Lily of the Valley, notwithstanding its 
luxuriant growth even when neglected, requires 
not only its share of manure annually, like other 
plants, but, like the fibrous-rooted Iris, it is the 
better for a fresh supply of soil as well. If the 
plants have grown fairly well, as is the case in 
“ L.’s ” bed, all that is required to get them to 
flower is, any time after the leaves have died 
down, and before the spring months come round 
again, to give the bed a thin coating of half de¬ 
cayed farmyard manure, and over this to shake 
some soil passed through a riddle, till the roots 
which have come to the surface are all covered. 
Four years ago I planted a bed which has a 
north-west aspect, and the soil of which is heavy 
clay. Owing to the manure it received at the 
time of planting, there were plenty of flowers 
the first two years, but the third year was a 
failure, although the leaves were as numerous 
and as rich as ever. In February last I gave 
the treatment I have recommended, without any 
digging, or so much as disturbing a single root 
further than filling up a few small blanks. At 
present the bed is in full bloom, and almost every 
second leaf has a flower stalk of unusual size and 
strength, at least for this situation. Formerly, 
J used to be contented if the stalks had eight or 

Digitized by^OOgle 


ten “ bells ” on each, but this year few have less 
than fifteen, and I have counted seventeen on a 
good many' of them. In consequence, too, of the 
fine sunny' weather we are having, the perfume 
is very strong, and only about a dozen stalks are 
required to fill an ordinary sized room with fra¬ 
grance.—P. It. 

THE VILLA GARDEN. 

( Continued from page 173.) 

Hardy Flowers for Autumn. 

Anemone japonica rubra, rose, 24 feet; A. j. 
Honorine Joubert, white, 2$ feet,” Aster ccc- 
cineus, red, 3J feet; A. dumosus, white, 1 foot; 
A. elegans, purple, 24 feet; A. fragilis, white, 
2 feet; A. Icevis, purple, 2 feet; A. multiflorus, 
white, 2 feet; A. Novm-Anglim, blue, 4 feet; A. 
Novi-Belgi, blue, 4 feet; A. obliqua, purple, 4 
feet; A. amellus, purple, 2 feet; A. bessarabicus, 
violet, 2 feet; A. versicolor, white and pink, 1 
foot. The Starworts, or Michaelmas Daisies as 
they are sometimes called, are a very numerous ! 
and interesting family, and their late blooming 
enhances their value. 

Jielenium autumnale, yellow, 2.4 feet; Heli- 
anthus multiflorus, yellow, 3 feet; H. orgyalis, 
yellow, 6 feet; Helicbrysum tStcechas, yellow', 
18 inches; Inula glandulosa, yellow', 2 feet; 
Lencojum autumnale (Autumn Snowflake), white, 
4 inches; Oxalis Bowieana, rose, 9 inches, must 
have a warm, dry' situation ; Petasites fragracs 
(Winter Heliotrope), grey r , 12 inches; Pbysalis 
Alkekengi (Winter Cherry), scarlet fruit, very 
brilliant, 12 inches; l’bysostegia imbricata, 
purple, 3 feet; Plumbago Larpentsc, blue, 15 
inches; Schizostylis coccinea, crimson, 2 feet, 
a very beautiful autumn-flowering plant, may 
be lifted and placed in pots for the conservatory 
where the flow'ers will be fresher and nicer; 
Sedum spectabile, pink, 12 inches; Senecio- 
pnlcher, crimson, 2 Jfeet; Silene Schafta, purple, 
6 inches; Solidago grandiflora (Golden Rod), 
yellow, 3 feet; tttatice angustifolia, lilac, 12 
inches; Sternbergia lutea, yellow, 6 inches; 
Tritoma Burchelli (Flame Flower), scarlet, 3 
feet; T. Uvaria, red, 3 feet; T. grandis, red and 
orange, 5 feet. 

The list of autumn flowers is not an extensive 
one ; but many of the summer-flowering plants 
virtually flower in autumn, as they continue to 
put forth blossoms till the frost comes. To these 
must be added the Chrysanthemums, although 
these are now classed with the florists’ flowers, 
and will be referred to hereafter. Still, when 
treated merely as border plants in a mild autumn, 
they brighten up many a little garden, yes, and 
many' a great one, in November, and, if planted 
against a low wall or amid the shelter of shrubs, 
Chrysanthemums will yield a good many blos¬ 
soms with but little trouble. 

Hardy Flowers for Cutting. 

This is one of their strongest points. One might 
possess miles of ribbon borders, and yet be 
unable to fill a vase decently; but with a good 
collection of hardy plants in the borders we can 
gather flow-ers of all the most beautiful colours, 
and of the most graceful habit of growth, and 
what is often of great importance, we may have 
them of any length of stalk. From the time of 
the Violets and Snowdrops in winter, through 
the Primrose season and the time of Lilies, 
something or other is always coming on till the 
season of Violets is met in the autumn again. 
To have Violets in abundance should be the aim 
of all, and if we do not want to gather them, 
they will fill the air with fragrance. To this end 
they should be planted freely, filling up spare 
comers in the shrubbery border, even beneath 
the shrubs if the shade is not too dense. The 
common Russian is quite at home in such posi¬ 
tions ; but Violets that have become nat uralised, 
so to speak, in the shrubbery,'do not flower so ' 
early, neither are their flower-stems so loDg, as 
the cultivated plants, and this latter point, 
where the flowers have to be gathered and tied 
in bunches, is an important one. For producing 
a large quantity of blossom in autumn and 
winter, frequent renewal is necessary. In no 
case should the plants be permitted to occupy 
the same site more than two years, and the best 
plan is to raise a lot of young plants annually, 
especially all that, are required for potting or 
placing in frames. The side-shoots pegged down 
in April, and a little fine, light soil scattered 


over the runners, will produce quickly any 
number of plants, which should be lifted and 
planted in beds till the autumn. A friend that 
grows Violets largely has a low long pit, which 
he fills with plants raised in this way lifted from 
the borders in autumn, and from which immense 
quantities of fine blossoms are gathered all the 
winter. There is a hot-water pipe along 
, the front of the pit, which is a great helpin wet 
or cold weather, as even Violets enjoy a genial 
warmth when opening their blossoms. The 
best varieties for forcing are the single Neapo¬ 
litan and the double Marie Louise. The coloured 
Primroses, again, are nice to gather for the rooms 
in winter, and we find that by transplanting 
and dividing the roots frequently, they become 
more precocious—more perpetual in their habit 
of blooming. A position in the full sunshine is 
not a good one for any of this sweet, retiring 
family; indeed, their home in the woods or in 
the thick hedge bottoms would suggest as much. 
Polyanthuses and Alpine Auriculas are very 
sweet for picking in early spring, and are so 
easily raised from seeds or by division. Another 
race of plants which are indispensable for cut¬ 
ting early in the season aie the Anemones. The 
double scarlet is a grand plant to be grown in 
large beds for its flowers alone, and it travels 
and keeps its petals for so long a time ; whilst 
many of the hothouse flowers, about which so 
much fuss is made, perish in a few hours, the 
Anemones will last days, and if gathered befoic 
the blooms are quite open they will last moie 
than a week—by changing the water occasion¬ 
ally, or keeping a few' bits of animal charcoal 
in the vase. The varieties of Anemone coroEaria 
are also beautiful for cutting, and on a warm 
border they flower with us all the winter. Seeds 
gathered from the best flowers and sown in 
spring, germinate quickly in the open border, or 
they may be sown in the frame and transplanted 
when large enough. 

The Columbines are nice for cutting, and in a 
cool house in pots they flower early. The hybrid 
forms are very pretty. All the Asters or Star- 
worts are useful for cutting, and they come at a 
season when flowers are becoming scarce ; the 
same may be said of the autumn Anemones or 
Japan Windflowers. The Canterbury Bella are 
delightful for filling large vases in the ball, and 
these, too, are easily raised from seeds. They 
are biennials, and should be sown in April for 
flowering the following year. The Delphiniums, 
the Pyrethrums, the double scarlet Geum, all the 
Irises, the Everlasting Peas (Lathyrus); and what 
grand things the F:eonies are for effect in a large 
vase, in a corridor or hall, mixed with plenty of 
foliage ! Indeed, in making a large provision for 
cut blossoms, foliage must not be neglected. '' 
"What grand things cut spikes of the old white 
Lily (candidum) are looking out of a base of 
green leaves! The Spiraeas and Veronicas t.re 3 
useful for this purpose, as are also the Poppies ,' 1 
both perennial and annual forms. 

The perennial Sun flowers, especially the double' 
form of Helianthus multiflorus, the Phlox es,* 
Rudbeckias,Funkias,Senecios, 8 tatices,Coreopi is,* 
Gypsophilas, and the spotted Foxgloves are all : 
valuable for cutting for some of tbe various p ir-* 
poses for which cut flowers are now employed. T1 en ' 1 
the Dianthus family are a host in themselves , 1 
the Carnation, Picotee, Pink, and Sweet Willi uni 
are indispensable. The blossoms of Pentsten ohj 
and Antirrhinum, though lacking fragrance, or 9 
not without value as cut flowers. The Grass es.l 
both the flowers and foliage, add a grace i ndi 
charm to bouquet and vase which nothing < ls^| 
can give. All plants which have handsome foli ig f 
should have at least some of the leaves cm 
to mix with the flowers in setting them npd 
Though there is still much room for impr< vet 
ment, yet cut flowers are arranged in abetter irn 
more natural manner than was common on] g { 
few years ago. With many people, the g; ea 
aim seemed to be to get as much into the v; isc 
as possible, instead of showing every flower oi 
to the best advantage. How'unhappy it m: ke 
one feel to see a lot of beautiful flowers (nat i re, 
sweetest productions) tied up in a bundle an 
thrust into a vessel of water, with their crus Ue 
and damaged blossoms all too conspicuous, 
is impossible for any person of taste to e 
flowers treated in this way. Half-a-dozcn sp iv 
of blossom, in two or three varieties, loo :ij 
out from amid a mass of greenery, will bo j m 
effective, and give more real pleasure, than a Vu 
overcrowded — be theflowers ever so costly or *a| 

A good collection of hardy plants may be g : 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN I 




fi 23. 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED C- 


187 


in i eomparatiTel} - small space, although, of 
coarse, it is better not to limit ourselves in room, 
ss their special sites may be created for grand 
masses of some special subject standing alone, 
it Eay be, in some nook or corner, imparting a 
character to the place which is not soon for¬ 
gotten. 

The Propagation of Hardy Plants. 

This may be effected by cuttings of branches 
or roots, by division, and by seeds. As regards the 
propagation by cuttings, the best time to take 
catlings, when the propagation is done in the 
open air, is in J uly and August. If glass is 
tied the propagation may be done both earlier 
and also later. It is always advisable, even in 
the simplest kind of propagation, to prepare the 
bed before inserting the cuttings. The best 
plan is to place on the surface of the ground 
(selecting a shady site, or at least where the 
rays of the mid-day sun do not reach) 4 inches 
in depth of nice, light, sandy compost, that has 
been run through a half-inch sieve. Make it 
frm by pressure, and if dry, a good soaking of 
water, and when the surplus moisture has 
drained away, dibble in the cuttings. If the 
compost is not to be had for the surface-dressing, 
pass the top 3 inches of the border through the 
aalf-inch sieve ; the thorough intermingling and 
breaking np which this effects will be an advan¬ 
tage to the cuttings, causing them to root better 
and more rapidly. 

If the bed is ready, the cuttings can be taken 
a few at a time when they can he obtained. Of 
course, vaung shoots, destitute of flowers, make 
the be-t cuttings, but very often these cannot be 
had; and if flowering steins have to be em¬ 
ployed, it is better not to wait till the advancing 
seals have taken all the vigour out of the plants. 
The flower-stems of many things cut into pieces 
several inches in length, so as to Include two or 
more joints, will make excellent cuttings, and in 
some cases, as with Hollyhocks, for instance, a 
single joint is sufficient to make a plant. The 
propagation of plants under glass may go on 
prettv well all the year round, and I shall refer 
to these again hereafter. Propagation by 
livision is the simplest of all. We have only to 
iig up a root at a season when the plant is not 
j- flower or approaching that condition, and 
senarate it into as many pieces as we require 
tliuts, each with a root or two attached. The 
tools we require for the work are a sharp knife, 
- cr j frequently in the case of common things 
the spade, if a good steel implement, will per- 
bnn the operation in a satisfactory manner, but 
h choice things it may sometimes be neces- 
arv to have a pail of water; dip the ball of 
-arch in the water, to dislodge some of the soil 
md show where the division may be effected with 
the least injury to the plants. Either in the 
Tring or the autumn plants may be divided, 
Tr-y indeed, it is not advisable to lay down any 
jirticnlarly narrow- line, for if the plants are not 
ictmllv in blossom they may be divided any time 
a the early summer with perfect success. If it is 
ivrirable to divide any plant into small pieces 
far the purpose of increasing stock, the offsets 
•iarald be treated as cuttiDgs, and planted for a 
easem in the reserve garden. 

Propagation by seeds.— Many of the best hardy 
crennials may be raised from seeds: and there 
. great and'interesting field for thought and 
]y open to the man or woman of enthusiastic 
jerament in the raising of plants from seeds, 
specially where time can be given to the ferti- 
. ir and crossing of various families. Man 
lK the same influence over the destiny of 
iants he cultivates as he has over the ani- 
he feeds, provided he possesses the neces- 
time and patience to think and work the 
iter out, and can bear disappointment with- 
stterving from what he has set himself to 
'■‘-arly all seeds germinate best when new, 
larger proportion of seeds will produce 
... thev are sown as soon as ripe than if 
[jjj spring, which is the orthodox time for 
: =owing- Assuming that seeds which ripen 
f ■ v August, or even qp to the middle of 

ember, were sown as soon as they ripen, a 

• L -. would be gained over putting them into 
- r~ rjackets till spring. Seeds of perennials 

' iQ ^ u gust will germinate and be strong 

• U to stand the winter, and in the spring 
r2 ~. Httle plants ready to begin work. If the 
“- H hot and dry at that season, which it 

*' | S , the seed beds must have a good 

t £ui t- something afte* the manner I 

un ole 


nething after the manner I 

*at> CjOv gle 


described for cuttiDgs, and be watered and 
stirred about with the steel fork till the earth 
is thoroughly moistened for some distance into 
the ground ; then if the seeds arc carefully sown 
and covered with some modurately-dry, light 
soil, the seeds will grow quickly, and with the 
greatest certainty, if shaded by a mat or some¬ 
thing during the hottest part of the day, but 
uncovering at night. The seeds may either be 
sown in drills or broadcast. The drill system is, I 
think, best, because it gives greater facilities for 
stirring the surface among the litter growing 
plants, which is an important matter. As regards 
the depth to cover different kinds of seeds, 
mistakes are sometimes made in burying too 
deeply, but not often, I think, when the beds 
have been prepared in the way I have suggested, 
as a vigorous new seed will force its way through 
a healthy medium even if buried to a greater 
depth than is required. I like to cover very fine 
seeds with something which does not cake 
together. Sand or sifted cake dust, or, better still, 
charcoal dust is a capital material to cover deli¬ 
cate little seeds with, as it prevents damp lodging 
round the stems of the little plants after germi¬ 
nation has taken place. Where the convenience 
exists, the very choicest things should be sown 
in pots or pans 1 and placed in a close frame, and 
be shaded in the day time till the seeds germi¬ 
nate. This plan gains time, and the longer a 
seed remains in the ground without germinating 
as a rule, the weaker becomes the vital principle 
which we call life, and besides, in a frame under 
the eye of the cultivator, the little plants are 
exposed to fewer vicissitudes of weather, and 
are under less danger of attack from insect foes. 

E. Hobday. 

SOOT AS MANURE. 

There can be no doubt that soot is an excellent 
fertiliser, and it is possibly less appreciated as 
such than it deserves to be. I recollect tr> ing 
experiments with various kinds of manure, 
including soot, with the view of ascertaining 
their effect upon the production of various 
culinary crops, such as Peas, Potatoes, French 
Beans, Cauliflowers, &c., and, so far as I can 
remember, the crops obtained from the portion 
of land dressed with soot were next in point of 
produce, or nearly equal, to those obtained from 
land heavily dressed with well decomposed 
stableyard manure. At all events, the two 
fertilisers just named proved much better than 
all the others tried, consisting of bone dust, 
nitrate of soda, gas lime, wood, coal, and other 
ashes, spent Hops, &c. Soot should therefore be 
secured whenever it is possible, and as it is of 
great importance that it should be kept dry, a 
bin or large box of some kind should be placed 
under cover for its reception. It may with 
benefit, be applied to all kinds of land, light as 
well as heavy, and there is hardly a crop culti¬ 
vated in the garden to which it may not with 
great advantage be occasionally applied. 

Soot water is found to be exceedingly 
beneficial to Pine-apple plants, either when 
grown in pots or planted out. It drives worms 
from the soil, and repeated applications soon 
show their effect in the increased vigour and 
healthy appearance of the plants. Its effect 
upon the Grape Tine, too, when applied in the 
form of a dressing to the surface of the border, 
whether inside or outside, is soon apparent. The 
soot is gradually conveyed to the feeding roots 
by the action of rain or the repeated applications 
of water, and the texture and colour of the 
foliage soon show the good results derived 
therefrom. Strawberry plants in pots may also 
be greatly benefited by repeated applications 
of soot water, which has the effect of driving 
earthworms, maggots, &c., from the pots as well 
as acting as a fertiliser. Indeed, there are few, 
if any, plants grown in pots which may not be 
more or less benefited by its occasional applica¬ 
tion, and I have never known plants to be injured 
by it, although I have known it to be applied 
even to Cape Heaths and Epacrise6, and it is 
known to be a valuable stimulant in the case of 
the Camellia. 

Soot is also admitted to be a powerful manure 
for most kinds of culinary crops ; in the case of 
the Onion it is of the greatest value. This crop 
is frequently attacked by the maggot, -which, if 
not checked, soon commits sad ravages, and the 
best remedy is a good dressing of soot. As, 
however, prevention is better than cure, the land 
intended for this crop should, in almost all cases, 


have a good dressing of this material shortly be¬ 
fore the seed is sown, in addition to any other 
manure which may have been given during the 
preceding winter. Nearly all plants of the 
Brassica tribe are liable to be attacked by what 
is known as the club, which frequently proves 
very troublesome, and the best known preventive 
of this is what is called puddling the roots of 
the plants—an operation easily performed by 
merely making a hole in the soil near to where 
the plantation is intended to stand ; in this bole 
place a portion of fresh soot, and to this add a 
portion of fine soil and water, until it acquires 
the consistency of thick paint, and into this dip 
the roots of the plants before planting them. 
Seed-beds of the various kinds of Cabbages, 
Lettuces, Radishes, &c., when the seed is just 
about to germinate, are very apt to be attacked 
by birds of various kinds, and this may some¬ 
times be prevented by giving the surface of the 
beds an occasional slight dressing of fresh scot, 
the odour of which the feathered depredators do 
not by any meaDs relish. A slight dusting of 
this material round newly planted Lettuces and 
other plants will also go far to keep slugs and 
snails from attacking them, which they are apt 
to do, before the plants have recovered from the 
effects of transplantation. Grass lawns and belts 
in the pleasure grounds, &c., may also be fre¬ 
quently much improved by the application of 
soot, or a mixture of soot, wood ashes, and fine 
soil; this appears to have the effect of encour¬ 
aging the growrth of the finer sorts of grasses, and 
as it were assists them to overcome and to 
finally extirpate the coarser kinds, together with 
weeds and Moss. There are no doubt many other 
purposes to which soot may be usefully applied, 
but enough may have been already said to prove 
its value in the garden. P. G. 

GARDEN EDGINGS. 

In all well-kept gardens something in the form 
of aline of demarcation is necessary to divide or 
to separate soil from gravel. No plant is more 
generally used for edging than 

Box, and possibly no plant is better suited 
to the purpose. In some light, poor soils, how¬ 
ever, it does not succeed well, and even in soils 
where it does succeed it requires considerable 
attention in the way of clipping, in order to 
keep it in proper form, as if this is not attended 
to it will soon become unsightly, as well as un¬ 
serviceable as an edging plant. The operation 
of laying, as it is termed, a Box edging, is one 
which, if performed as it ought to be, requires 
a neat-handed w T orkman ; and in order to have 
the edging properly laid it is necessary that the 
soil should be made level and solid. The clip¬ 
ping of an established Box edging should be 
performed at least once a year, and the best 
time to do this is during the latter part of May 
or early in J une, when all danger from frost may 
be supposed to have passed, for although Box is 
perfectly hardy when in an unmutilated condi¬ 
tion, still, when recently clipped, a comparatively 
slight frost will not kill it, but will disfigure it 
for the remainder of the season. If a second 
clipping should be deemed necessary, it should 
for the same reason be done sufficiently eaily 
in the autumn to avoid injury from a like cause. 
As has already been said, there is possibly no 
plant better suited for the purpose of forming 
edgings to walks in vegetable gardens than the 
Box. It requires, however, to be properly cared 
for. It is impatient of being trodden upon or 
roughly treated in the sweeping or cleaning of 
the walks to which it forms a margin, and if so 
treated unsightly gaps will soon be the result. 
The plants, when neglected or allowed to grow 
too high, are also very likely to become thin at 
the bottom, and the soil from the borders or 
quarters is washed through the edging during 
heavy rainfalls upon the gravel, which it dis¬ 
colours. On this account an edging should 
always, if possible, be placed somewhat high, 
in order that the soil should fall slightly from it 
instead of sloping to it, as is more frequently 
the case. Some, however, are found to greatly 
prefer 

Dead edgings to living ones, particularly in 
kitchen gardens, the former having certainly the 
advantage of affording no harbour for insect 
pests of any kind, and is less likely to get injured. 
8 uch edgings are sometimes formed of wood, which 
cannot, however, be highly recommended for the 
purpose, as it seldom remains in good condition for 
any length of time, and it is possible that even an 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



188 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[June 23, 1883. 


edging formed of flints, or comparatively small 
stones, is to be preferred to it; but a neat tile is 
very much to be preferred to either. We would, 
however, give preference to a combination of a 
living and a dead edging, and thus as far as 
possible endeavour to meet aesthetic as well as 
utilitarian requirements. We would in every case 
use a tile in the first place ; it need not be thicker 
than is consistent with the necessary strengh, and 
should stand some 3 inches, more or less, above 
the level of the walk which it borders. Behind 
the tile, and as close to it as possible, should be 
inserted the plants intended to form the edging, 
with their roots extending into the border, and 
prevented by the tile from entering the gravel 
forming the walk. The advantagesof this arrange¬ 
ment will be obvious in more ways than one. The 
tile will, to some extent, protect the living plants 
from injury during the sweeping and cleaning of 
the walk ; it will also prevent the soil, during dry 
weather, from filtering through the edging on to 
the gravel, and will prevent it being washed 
through during heavy rainfall, and be of the 
greatest value in cases where it is found necessary 
to give walks a heavy dressing of salt. The latter 
is frequently found to be very beneficial to them ; 
for, although walks may be kept free from weeds 
by the hand, or by occasionally being broken up, 
Btill it frequently happens that they become 
covered with Moss, &c., when it is by no means 
convenient to break them up, and where a good 
dressing of salt would be quite effectual in con¬ 
solidating and rendering them perfectly clean 
and free from weeds as well as Moss and earth¬ 
worms. Such dressings can, however, hardly be 
applied with safety to walks which are margined 
with living plants planted in the ordinary way ; 
for although the greatest care may be taken in 
keeping the salt at what may be considered a safe 
distance from the roots of the plants, still, a 
sudden and a heavy fall of rain will wash the 
greater portion of it to the sides and into direct 
contact with the roots, and this will generally 
greatly injure, if it does not altogether kill them. 
The use of a tile will prevent anything like this 
taking place. Even ordinary bricks may be 
effectively used for this purpose, or, better still, 
the kind of bricks called by bricklayers “ skews,” 
but a light tile is in all respects better than 
either, being much neater, and no doubt cheaper. 
If desired, the common Box may be used in con¬ 
nection with the tile in the manner described, but 
there are also several other plants which may, 
with equal success, be used for the purpose, a few 
of which will now be named, such as the Buxus 
japonica aurea, an exceedingly pretty variety of 
the Box family, and one of the most suitable for 
an edging plant, as the closer it is clipped, the 
brighter its golden colour becomes. 

Various edging plants.— Some of the many 
dwarf forms of the Retinosporas are exceedingly 
pretty when used as edging plants, and they bear 
clipping as well as the Box, as does also the 
Euonymus radicans variegatus; and the Vinca 
variegata is possibly one of the most beautiful 
of all marginal or edging plants. The common 
Irish Ivy and some of the variegated varieties 
are also very suitable for the purpose, as is the 
small-leaved Cotoneaster, the Santolina incana, 
or Lavender Cotton, the Golden Thyme, Veronica 
Candida, and Saxifraga umbrosa, or London 
Pride. Some of the Gnaphaliums and Ceras- 
tiums, Stachys lanata, Armeria maritima, or the 
Thrift, are likewise suitable, as are also the 
many beautiful varieties of the Daisy, the 
Sempervivum californicum, &c., and, where the 
soil suits it, the beautiful Gentiana acaulis. 

P.G. 


PrizeB for Asparagus —The third annual 
competition for prizes offered by Mr. Robinson 
for Asparagus took place at South Kensington, 
June 12. There were more competitors this 
year than hitherto, and there was some improve¬ 
ment in the quality of the Asparagus through¬ 
out the whole of the sixteen bundles shown. 
The chief prizes were offered for 300 heads, to 
be competed for by market growers. The best 
bundle was exhibited by Mr. Harwood, Col¬ 
chester, the heads in which were uniformly 
large and fresh. The second bundle, from 
Messrs. Poupart, Kew, was also good, but the 
heads were rather too much open. There were 
six competitors in gardeners and amateurB’ 
classes. Mr. Cole, Colchester, showed the finest 
bunch of eighty heads, all of which were large 
and good, and indicated good cultivation and 
selection. The yfixCbeat eighty'were front 




.31c 


Mr. Allan, Lord Suffield’s gardenet* at Gunton 
Park, Norwich. This was also a fine handle, but 
the heads were not so uniform in size as those 
from Mr. Cole. The third bundle came' from 
Mr. Speed, Penrhyn Castle. It represented s ex¬ 
cellent growth, but bad selection, that is, ?be 
heads were not of uniform size. The fourtJr 
bunch, from Mr. Pitt, Bury Hill, Dorking, con¬ 
sisted of small heads, but they were uniform and 
fresh. Mr. Ward, Longford Castle, and Mr. 
Stewart, Maldon, also competed in the class for 
eighty heads. There were four bundles of fifty 
heads. The best were from Mr. Allan and Mr. 
Herrin, Chalfont Park, and Mr. Stewart took the 
other two prizes in the order named. 


Seedling Pansies. — Mr. Proctor sends 
from his nursery, Ashgate Road, Chesterfield, a 
beautiful collection of cut blooms of Pansies, 
which include some uncommonly fine sorts with 
symmetrically formed flowers, almost circular, and 
of rich and varied colours. A good packet of seed 
gives endless variety, and saves the trouble of 
putting in cuttings. 

House slops— I quite endorse all that 
“ A.” has stated with regard to the worthless¬ 
ness and offensiveness of house slops as a manure 
for the garden, and I may here remark that my 
experience of the effects of this indescribable 
mixture is entirely at variance with that of 
“G. C., Eccles.” His remark that “fat will 
nourish almost any kind of plant” has the ad¬ 
vantage of originality, if nothing else, and I 
tremble to think of the credulous amateur who, 
in consequence of such instruction, carefully 
empties the residuum of the frying-pan among 
his bedded-out plants. A neighbour of mine, 
whose knowledge of the chemistry of gardening 
is in inverse ratio of bis knowledge of practical 
parsimony, invariably splashes the contents of 
the slop-pail indiscriminately amongst his Lilies 
of the Valley, Pelargoniums, Pinks, and all the 
rest, with the result, despite his unremitting 
attention, his garden never rises abovemediocrity, 
and in certain conditions of the atmosphere the 
smell is unbearable. As a cheap, clean, and 
effective liquid manure for a flower garden, 
nothing is better than a handful of guano and 
soot dissolved in a pail of clean water.—M. or N. 

- The value of this can hardly be doubted 

by any who have tried it. I have had Broccoli 
32 inches round watered with this, while other 
heads were not a quarter the size. It is lament¬ 
able that this and other valuable materials are 
thrown away, while less efficient ones are 
bought at great cost.—T. C., Somersetshire. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

9864.— Spittle blight. —This pest is known 
generally under the name of cuckoo spit, no 
doubt from an erroneous idea that these birds 
were its origin. It is really the product of a fly, 
the Tettigonia spumaria, having also other 
names, that is of a dirty white colour, thickly 
dotted, and clothed with short hairs. Its hind 
legs are so long that it can leap over, for its puny 
size, what must be regarded as marvellous 
distances. The spittle, or frothy substance, 
found cn the plants encloses one or two lfttle 
grubs or larvie. It is not certain that in this grub 
state these insects do harm, but the parent fly 
in thus depositing its eggs on plants pierces the 
stems or leaves of the plants on which the eggs 
are deposited, extracts the sap, and then voids it 
in the form of froth as seen so abundantly at 
this time of the year, and especially on the new 
growth of quickset hedges; and this froth seems 
to form a shield or protection to the grubs until, 
in July, they become perfect insects, when they 
quit the froth and that soon disappears. In the 
case of hard-wooded plants, such as Chrysan¬ 
themums, the spittle and grub3 may be removed 
by using the finger and thumb, and at each 
removal, dipping them into a bowl of water to 
wash off the froth; but with tenderer plants 
such as Carnations, it is well to use a small 
brush, which should also be dipped in water as 
the work of removing the insects goes on.— 
A. D. 

9872.— Worms and plants.— There can 
be no doubt but that worms eat plants or other 
vegetable matter, but the only plants they 
devour are seedling, or very small onfcsi such Us 


can be drawn into their holes and then eaten. 
Worms also draw into the earth pieces of hay. 
6 traw, grass, leaves, both green and dry, and 
other vegetable substances. Their chief food 
would, however, appear to be found in the soil, r 
as they pass a very large quantity through their 
bodies and eject it again in the form of worm 
^asts. Dressings of soot and fresh lime strewn 
a$ night, and waterings of lime and soot water, 
wif^ soon get rid of worms. —A. D. 

9847 9862.-- Weedy lawns.— Patient 

application of a plantain fork will remove 
Dandelions,Thistles, Hemlock, Plantains,and all 
tap-rooted yeeds. If expense is no object, lawn 
sand kills vhem effectually. For Bisbop weed, 
there is no reknedy save digging up, as the roots 
are yards long/—A. B. T., East Anglia. 


Pinching back Coleuses.—I have some young 
Coleuses, which are growing rather tall, but have no ' 
side shoots. Should they be pinched ?— Amateur. [Fes ; 
if you tcant bushy plants, f , 

Seakale bloom.—Ought I to remove the flower 
stalks from Seakale? I don't want seed.—ENQUIRER. 
[Yes ; cut them off at the base.) 

Coleus.—If the house has brick foundations, you 
cannot legally remove it without the consent of the land- 
lord. Ot course, if you remove rty and your landlord 
proceeds against you, he will have to prove that you have 
damaged his property. \ 

IF. G. IF.—We know of no good book\at present that 
will answer your purpose, but there is orile in the press 
(the English Flower Garden) which wili give you all 

you require, if you can wait for it.-HU. IF.— They 

are very handsome, and well worth growing.- Fern ^3 i 

Leaf.—Yen ; the index and covers for binding Are obtain 
able at our office, or through any newsagent \qr at the 
railway bookstalls. \ 

IF. I.ichardson.— Bowden, Cheshire, we think.—Y—2?.— 

Get a descriptive catalogue from some of the best growers, 
say Downio and Laird, Pilrig Park, Edinburgh. 

Names of plants.— Mr. Montgomery.— 1, Kerria 
japonica; 2, Saxifraga aizoon; 8, Dielytra formosa;\4, 

Scilla nutans.- Young Gardener. —1, Polygonum liia- 

torta; 2, Euphorbia Cyparissias: 3, Iris graminea; 4, 

Viburnum Opulus.- A. H R —Varieties of Strawberries v 

cannot be named from leaves or flowers.- A. H. It .—i 

Ouriaia coccinea.- Toots .—Hemerocallis minor.- 

L.E .—Philadephus coronarius (hardy shrub).- Hortus. N - b? 

—1, Cobica scandens variegata; 2, Rhododendron myr- 
tifolium; 3, Gaultheria Shallon ; 4, Kalmia Aiigustifolia ; " 

5, Ledum thymifolium- J. S. Uelsby.— Common pot 

Marigold (Calendula officinalis). - B. M. P .— We can- ■ 

not name sorts of Roses.- J. T. F. —Apparently Dra- 

ciona indivisa.- II. N. —B. Asplenium bulhiferum ; C. 

Pteris serrulata cristata; D. Polystichum angulare cris- ~ 

tatura.- Jones.— Send us good specimens and we will 

endeavour to name them.- H. J. C .—Passlflora cceru- ~ ‘ 

lea.- T. S B.— Fuchsia splendens.- Alfriston .— 

Viburnum Opulus.- Mrs. Roe. —Send when in flower. 

- M. D .—Next week.- Marigold .—Asphodeline lutea. 

- J. E. A.—1, 8is>rinchiuni grandiflorum ; 2, Saxtfrngn 

longifolia ; 8, Smllaclna (Bpecies), (send better specimen- 
next time).- Seaton Careio .—Glaux maritima. — u 


QUERIES. 




Rules for Correspondents.—A U communica 
tions for insertion should be clearly and concisely t crittei ■ v ‘ 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor .V 
Letters relating to business to the Publisher. The narn 
and address of the sender is required, in addition to an\. 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Querie' 
should always bear the number and title of the over 
answered. When more than one query is sent each shouL 
be on a separate piece qf paper. Owinq to the necessity o 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before th 
day qf publication, it is not possible to insert queries an 
communications the week they are received. Queries nc * 
answered should be sent to us again. 

9S96.—A wet garden.—Can any reader give som. ! 
advice on the following? I have a garden about 3f>. . 
feet by 26 feet, with a gravelly subsoil, but unfortunat-el ■! 
the bottom end (about 100 feet) dips considerably, and 
being below the water level, in very wet winters, such 
the last, is flooded. I purpose digging a trench 4 feet b 
about 3 feet deep on both sides and across the botton Si 
and throwing the earth in the centre, thus raising; tlm 
part some feet. The centre thus raised, I intend to us 
as a poultry run, and the trenches will prove very aceej 
table, no doubt, to the ducks, as even in summer tin 
there will he some inches of water in them. What kin 
of trees and underwood should I plant to most quickl 
afford a shelter for the poultry, and at the same time 1 
ornamental and useful ? Would fruit trees do well, an 
if so, what sorts ?— Perplexed. 

9897.-Cucumbers failing.— Can any reader tc v 
me what to do with my Cucumber plants? After tin. 
get up to a nice size, and begin to bear fruit, Bomethii - 
seems to attack them ; I do not know what it is, ami * 
should be much obliged if anyone can tell me. II ^ 
leaves drop, as plants do in very dry weather, and all tr 
fruit goes back; but it is not from too much waterin. 
or for the want ot it, and it iB not for the want of sha.«.l in' 
because I have got the side that the sun strikes 
covered with curtains, and the other side with whltiucr » 
G. D. T. P. 

9898 —Evergreen Euonymus with berrle s \ 
Will any reader tell me where I can procure the abov a 
j I have seen this bush covered with berries in sot ^ 

• country, but which I cannot remember- (Italy, Sp u .^ 

IRRAMA-rU&MD&ir.M ’< 


tox 23, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


189 


It must bear berries In its native land. If 
fenitocght to grow to do so anywhere that suits the 
1 do not mean the E. latifolius (the spindle tree), 
be lie erergTeen species and its silver and gold varieties. 
jj in the case of the Aucuba formerly, I suppose we 
alypor the female in this country.—I. Simeon. 

H»-Cheap manure —Will “Surgeon,” Garden- 
3-', March 3rd last, kindly give me advice on the follow- 
frr-lfcire a tank, over which is a pump, holding 400 
rf *8 gallons, in which is collected the whole of the 
wi*«/ «n*i other foul water, w.c. soil, drc. Now, If 
& T4ler, which smells badly, is used for the garden, 
ift.7, jay two ounces of the common green vitriol, dis- 
in boiling water, is passed into the tank daily, will 
& water be likely to injure the growing crops, flowers, 

&A -Carnations with green centres. —I should 
>« obliged if someone would tell me the reason why nil 
the liooms of my Malmaison Carnations have green 
fctrei They are in a small lean-to house, not heated, 
m ih-rut exposure, and the plants look very vigorous, 
iiUll the blooms have this defect, both those from old 
»i jocng plants. The largest plants are in 12-inch pots, 
due growing in a mixture of sand, loam, leaf mould, 
Eiiiiuia soot.—M. K. T. 

-*:i.-Primulas after flowering.—My Primulas 
'-■era to bloom in October last, and continued to bloom 
tO April or May 1, when the plants showed signs of 
After three or four weeks, however, a few 
sure fresh flowers were produced, and as I would like 
y jtep loch so that I would have them lu bloom next 
wkter, 1 would feel grateful for Information as to what 
U&st to be done to stop the flowering now.—B. M. 

Wi-Lillee dying 1 back.—I bought some sweet- 
ixated white garden Xilies in the end of March, and 
issued of progressing they gradually dwindled back, 
ud ire now quite withered. I brought Borne from the 
a njtry three weeks ago, and they are following suit. 

wmeone inform me the cause ? They are planted 
in* light, poor soil lately manured. What soil do they 
tferiieta best?—W. G. W. 

sat - Pelargoniums decaying. — I have got 
wveral hundreds of autumn-struck Pelargoniums. They 
veretaien from the greenhouse and put into a cold 
frame fbe second week in May to harden off, and about 
three weeks after they began to damp off at the surface 
solL I should, be glad to know the reason, as I 
sever tasw them to go like it before.—G eranium. 

SSOt - Cement for cistern. — I have a large 
equated cistern to hold the water of my house (slated 
net), bet the water is always hard. I am anxious to have 
It ejected again, and am told there are two kinds of 
rj®ait One will keep the water soft, and the other 
tana it hard. Can any reader give me the desired infor- 
stttoB?—J. B. P. 

feCc. -Propagating Rose trees. — Will someone 
kin-fly say if it is usual to divide the roots of Rose trees 
far the purpose of propagating? I have some own-root 
Lose trees, and should like to have a few small ones in 
pka. I shall feel obliged for any information upon the 
fiiiecL—L. 

Culture of Azaleas, Fuchsias, <fec.—Will 

»a? kind reader give a short treatise on the cultivation 
f Aukaa; also, how long before a given time should 
'"TruEis and double Geraniums have their flower-buds 
pefedoff to be in full bloom?—L over of Bloom. 

m—Greenhouse plants for show.—I should 
< ixd if any reader would give me the names of a few 
?vk greenhouse plants to form a collection to begot 
"iXih jot an exhibition to be held in the last week in 
•3T3t-—TU BEROSB. 

«i— Gynura aurantlaca.—Will someone favour 
^ rich their experience of the cultivation and winter 
>usent of this plant; also the whiter and spring treat- 
of Coleus ?—Barnes. 

— Summer pruning Currant trees. — 
‘auid the lonsc shoots now growing on Red Currant 
be pinched or otherwise shortened, and, if so, when 
£ •dd it be done?—C urrant Jellt. 

K9.— Planting Onions and Strawberries.— 
planting Onions and strawberries, should the plants 
in parallel rows or in angles.—F. M. S. 

■S'.l.—Rhubarb.—Could anything be done to improve 
sLardroota (Victoria) which only produce small stalks ? 
—A. J. 

**2.-Peat Mosa —Will someone give the botanical 
^ 'A Peat Moss, which has been so much recom- 
for stable litter ?—8. G. 

—Woodlice in gardens.—How can I rid my 
~-'ira c 4 wood-lice ?—C. J. K. 


BEES. 


SEASONABLE NOTES. 

5* i bring straw hives. —White clover is 
i; w in flower, and being the most important 
asK* from which bees derive their supplies, the 
ee of honey is therefore at the present time 
~ large, and. surplus honey should be obtained 
-ipering. Straw hives are now almost always 
lie fiat topped, having a hole in the centre, 
-ch is most convenient for supering, feeding, 
•he old dome-shaped hive going quite out of 
- along^ with (it is to be hoped) the barbarous 
lone-pit performance, with which it has 
e inseparably connected from time im- 
tosriai. Should it be wished to super a hive 
’ - Hati not a feed hole on the top, a piece 
tit 3 inches in diameter may be cut out with 
Nsrp strong knife in the middle of a bright 
c Vhen many of the beea upll be out in the 

F Digitizec t> (jO glC 


fields at work. If done gently, and with care, the 
bees will not be disturbed by this operation ; it 
is, however, well to have the face and hands 
protected, as coolness and confidence are so 
essential in the snccessful performance of opera¬ 
tions connected with bee management. Anything 
approaching to hurry or fussiness irritates bees 
exceedingly. Having cut and removed the piece 
of.straw work from the top of the hive, a square 
of queen excluder zinc should be fixed over the 
hole, as without this the queen might be tempted 
to ascend and lay in the super; the great value 
of this excluder lies in its permitting the soft 
abdomen of I lie worker bee—which is its largest 
part—to pass through its long perforations, 
while the hard thorax of the queen cannot be 
squeezed through it. Should the tops of the 
combs be a little broken in catting the piece out 
of the hive top, it will tend to induce the bees 
in repairing them to carry on their work into the 
super. A -mail straw super may then be placed 
over the hole; if a super full of clean empty 
comb be procurable (there were many such at 
the close of last season), it will be a great help 
and saving of time to the bees in quickly 
filling the super with honey, otherwise a piece 
of guide comb must be fixed in the super. If a 
bell-glass is used it must be covered with some 
warm material and protected from the weather 
by a straw super or skep. A great acquisition in 
improved straw skep management, by which 
section honey can be obtained, is the super crate. 
It is a square box with weather cover, made to 
contain fifteen one-pound or ten two-pound 
sections. At the bottom is a hole corresponding 
with the hole in the top of the skep, covered 
with excluder zinc, through which the bees 
ascend into it; each section box is filled with 
comb gnide or a piece of clean comb, and the 
bees work in them very readily. As the sections 
are filled and sealed over they are removed, 
empty ones taking their place. Beautiful white 
comb-honey is thus obtained equal to anything 
procurable from the bar-frame hive, and in this 
l'orm is much more saleable than in large supers, 
either of straw or glass, and is worth twice the 
price of run or extracted honey, and it is obvious 
that this method of procuring honey is far pre¬ 
ferable in every way to the ancient “ smothera- 
tion ” process. 

Shading hives. —Newly hived swarms should 
always be shaded during at least the hottest part 
of the day. New combs being so tender, are easily 
melted, and will sometimes, in consequence of 
the full rays of the midday sun falling apon the 
hives, give way and fail from the top of the hive, 
smothering the bees in the honey which runs 
from the fallen combs, and by running ont of the 
entrance attract robbers. A green bough placed 
over the hive forms a good shade, that from a fir 
tree being the best and most durable. As a shade 
and covering for straw hives nothing equals the 
old-fashioned straw hackle, both for comfort and 
appearance in summer and winter; they are easily 
constructed and very durable. S. S. G. 

Jiorivorth . 


BIRDS. 


cannot crack hemp seed, their bills not being 
strong enough. Putting another nest enables 
you to have the young ones in longer with the 
old bird. They should have no groundsel for at 
least a fortnight after being taken from the 
parent bird, when a liberal supply about twice a 
week will be found beneficial, as it puts them 
in feather, and helps to make them lively and 
strong. Plenty of fresh water and a good large 
cage for them to fly about in is the great deside¬ 
ratum for young birds.— Oracle. 

Parrot's perches —Will someone kindly 
give advice on the following : We constantly find 
our parrot resting on the edges of the water tin 
in its cage. It seems to prefer that either to the 
wooden perch or the ring. By so resting on the 
water tin the parrot’s claws are always in the 
water. Will this damage the parrot, and should 
some means be found to prevent it, or is it of 
any consequence ?—C. B. A. 

Egg food for canaries. — I nartially 
agree with Dr. Greene, in not giving much egg 
to young canaries, but the majority of old 
canaries require egg food to increase their laying 
properties. Every year my latest nest of young 
birds are fed on seed only. If “ L. M.” takes the 
cock canary away, the hen will bring up her 
young until they can feed themselves, not giving 
her much egg food, as that increases the desire 
to nest again before the young can feed them¬ 
selves. In answer to “Canary,” canary seed 
only is the best for sitting hens.—J. H. Verrall. 

Canary food. —I kept canaries, bullfinches, 
goldfinches, and linnets, for many years entirely 
without eggs. I quite agree with “ W. T. Greene,” 
that it is not necessary, and as my birds died 
chiefly of old age, it is certain they flourished on 
a seed and vegetable diet. A lump of rock salt 
in place of sugar I found very beneficial.—A. B. 
T., East Anglia. 

Moulting.— A correspondent says Ilia canary cannot 
moult. A few bits of saffron sprinkled in the water is 
Baid to aBsist moulting.—T hk Young Oracle. 

Breeding parrots.— Is it possible to breed parrots 
iu England 7 —Puck. 


AQUARIA. 


Fish and tar water. —I have in my aqua- 
rium a fountain which is supplied from a cask; this 
I some time ago tarred on the inside to make it 
watertight; the tar has never properly dried, and 
I find that if I let the water stand in it for a 
day or two, it gets so impregnated with the tar 
as to kill the fishes. What can I do to remedy 
this ?— One in a Fix, 

Goldfish.— Your correspondent, “ W. R.,” 
in his interesting communication respecting 
these fish, says that “ towards the end of a week 
in summer, or a fortnight or more in winter, a 
greenness begins to obscure the glass ” of the 
aquarium. I think he will find that a few water 
snails would easily remedy this by eating off the 
confervoid growth, as I have known the common 

limpet to do in a marine aquarium._W. W. 

King. 


Canaries neglecting 1 their young.— 

L. M .—Perhaps the birds are in too largeacage. 
If “ L. M.” will be careful not to boil the eggs 
too hard, only just hard, about ten or twelve 
minutes, the old bird will feed the young ones. 
After they are a fortnight old, a new nest should 
be provided, in case the hen wants to lay again. 
The cock will then feed the young brood. Pro¬ 
bably the cause of his ceasing to feed them was 
that he was not kept supplied with fresh water 
night and morning, as after the young reach 
that age they are fed partly on seed as well as 
egg, and they require constant feeding, and at 
this stage the old bird always drinks before 
feeding. Only give half an egg at a time. 
Groundsel should not be given when birds are 
breeding, except a spray, perhaps, once a week, 
but none when the hen is sitting. Perhaps 
“ L. M.’s ” birds had too much, or perhaps the 
breeding box is too deep and the brood was dirty 
and the old birds forsook it. Two inches, or at 
least two and a half inches, is the proper depth 
for a nesting box, and about three and a quarter 
inches square.— Godalming. 

Treatment of young oanarles.— When 
the young brood are separated from the old, 
which should not be done earlier than can be 
avoided, they should have egg, say twice a 
week, and nothing but canary seed, as they 


An egg within an egg.— On June 1 one 
of my Brahma hens laid an egg, which, on 
account of its large size, I determined to blow 
out and preserve. During the process, I found 
to my astonishment that the egg contained 
another egg within. There was the white and 
yolk to each, and the shell of the inner egg was 
as hard as that of the outer one. I succeeded 
in blowing them both out without accident. The 
egg measured in circumference 9 inches by 
6J inches, but the inner one was barely half that 
size.—H. E. Sprengle, Grimsby. 

Food reform.— Gardening, of June 10 , gives an 
article on 11 Food Reform.” Can anyone recommend a 
good practical inexpensive recipe book for vegetarian 
dishes?—H ocsekkepek.. 

Hop beer.—Will someone give me a good recipe for 
making Hop beer—non-intoxicant, of course AB- 
“-ainer. 

Feeding a tortoise — I have a tortoise in my 
garden. How should it be fed 7—W. H. V. 


Soot water.— The best way to make so 
water is to put the soot into a bag, tie it up, ai 
plunge it into a cask or tub—a paraffin cask 
a capital thing. You cannot go wrong if you i 
as the ladies do with the tea—watch tl 
colour as it comes out of the spout. It ought 
be just like tea high coloured, if you want 
strong; pale, if weak.— Taipo Tom. 


190 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[JUNE 23, 1883, 


\ fiA BEDDING PLANTS for 2s. 3d.—Victoria 

I UU and Truffaut's Pfeony Perfection Asters, Stocks, 
Zinnias, Marigolds, Tagetes. Phlox, Lupinus, Dianthus. or 
Godetia. all grown from the best imported Betid, free.— 
ROBERT CROSS, Hereford.__ 


& ARDEN POTS from Is. 2d. per cast.—Pricts 
and particulars from H. F. GODoARD, Red Pottery, 
Dennett Road, Queen’s Road, Peckham, London, SR_ 


CJINGlE DAHLIAS, splendid varieties, pur- 

fc3 chaaed direct from Ware, of Tottenham. 4b. doz ; double 
Dahlias, show, fancy, bouquet, 12 named varieties. 2s. 6 d. 
do 7 .., all from Binglupots; Rex Begonia discolor, 6 d. each: 
Cramula jaaminea, equal to white Bouvardia. 4, Is.; Lemon 
Verbenas, 6 , Is.; Begonias, pink and white, 6 , Is., all free.— 
HENRY k CO.. Chigwell Row, Essex. 


120 Bedding Plants for 5s. 
HEORGE A.SHENDEN & SONS are now 
vA sending out their box of cheap plants containing 60 
GcraniuiriB, various colours, including gold and silver leaf, 
20 blue Lobelias, 10 Heliotropes, 10 Verbenas, 10 Ageraturns, 
10 Calceolarias, for 5s., or 60 for 2«. 6 d., box included, for 
P.O.O. with order. The above are healthy plants and Bure 
to give satisfaction.—Bat and Ball Nursery. Gravesend. 

Now Ready. 

AUit new Illustrated and Detcrijitivo Cata- 

\J loguo of FERNS 

Price three stamps, gratis to customers,is the finest collection 
of British Ferns in the trade. 

Alao tn Tnr, tkesh, our new Descriptive Catalogue of 

ipitstie ^iL^isrTfe 

Contains the cream of this beautiful class. Prices very rea¬ 
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Acer insigne 
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GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol V. 


JUNE 30, 1883. 


No. 223, 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Continuedfrom page 187.) 

Hardy Florists' Flowers. 

The term florists’ flowers as applied to hardy 
plants must always he somewhat arbitrary in its 
application, for though the florist's standard of 
beauty and perfection may be the same to-day, 
yesterday, and for ever, yet the plants he works 
upon vary in their species and characteristics, 
and during the last forty years many new 
classes have been added to this list. It is true 
the Tulip, the Ranunculus, the Auricula, the 
Pansy, the Carnation, Picotee, and Pink, are 
pretty much as I remember them thirty years 
ago. 0 radual improvement has taken place, of 
course, but there has been no leaps and bounds 
on the march, like there has been with the P.ose, 
the Dahlia, the Pentstemon, the Phlox, the 
Pyrethrum, and the Chrysanthemum. There is 
no reason that I know of why we may not feel 
an intense admiration for Nature pure and 
simple, and at the same time admire the handi¬ 
work of man, and the way in which he has 
developed the capabilities of particular flowers, 
and I know from my own experience and my 
intercourse with others, that there is a vast 
amount of pleasure to be derived from the cul¬ 
tivation of any plant or flower with the special 
object of making it conform to some particular 
standard of form, texture, or colour. In the 
short notes which follow. It is not pretended 
that the subject has been exhaustively dealt 
with; the limits within which I am working 
would preclude this being done, as nearly every 
one of the subjects treated upon would form a 
suitable theme for a good-sized treatise. 

The Hollyhock. 

There is no class of plants which have such a 
noble appearance in the garden border, where 
the soil and situation are suitable, as the one 
under consideration. But of late years, in the 
southern counties, a red fungus (Puccinia malva- 
cearum) has in many places made their cultiva¬ 
tion so difficult that in some gardens the Holly¬ 
hocks have been given up. This fungus usually 
makes its appearance in July (sometimes earlier), 
first on the under side of the leaves, rapidly 
spreading over their whole surface until the 
foliage withers and dies, the whole plant looking 
the very picture of wretchedness, as if it had 
been exposed to a hot blast from a furnace. In 
lcaling with disease it is far better, by good cul¬ 
tivation, to try to prevent than to cure; in fact, 
I am doubtful, when the conditions are favour¬ 
able for its propagation, if this disease can 
be cured. 

Prevention from disease .—To have Hollyhocks 
free from disease, they must have a deep, well- 
worked, well-manured soil. They must also have 
plenty of room for the air to circulate among 
the plants to harden and add robustness to the 
growth, as in crowded beds the disease is always 
more destructive. 1 have seen this disease over¬ 
come by planting in trenches and heavily 
mulching, but if this treatment be necessary, it 
detracts somewhat from their usefulness, as they 
cannot have such conditions furnished for them 
in conspicuous positions, which, under favour¬ 
able circumstances, the Hollyhock is so well 
5tted to adorn. In using them as backgrounds, 
iarge holes might be made, which should be 
partly filled in with prepared compost consisting 
of manure and turfy soil, and after the planting 
is finished the plant, should stand in a small 
to low or basin, to collect the moisture which 
falls from the clouds, and retain the water that 
will be given to it from time to time in dry 
veatber. It will be easily understood by any¬ 
one wbo gives any' thought to the matter, that a 
•Jant with such a large top development as the 
•icllyhock under average circumstances pos- 
esses, must dissipate a great deal of moisture, 
«d to obtain first-class results an abundant 
■roply must be at hand. This is why Holly- 
iocka are better grown in the north than in the 
osth, where the rainfall is less. It is useless to 
:-kct Hollyhocks on poor soil, or on elevated 
r extio 7 is where there is nft^reat depth of soil. 

Digitized by GOOgle 


To obtain finn flowers, the spikes should be 
stopped when 7 feet or S feet high, and the 
individual flower buds should be thinned. Some 
exhibitors have an elaborate system of shading, 
and to bring out the soft delicate tints during a 
spell of hot weather, shade is necessary. April 
is the best month to plant, the plants having 
been well-hardened by a free exposure for some 
time previously. Though the Hollyhock is, in the 
main, hardy in our climate, yet, during severe 
winters, many are lost when the plants are left 
out in the beds, and in the case of choice varie¬ 
ties, the plants should be lifted in autumn and 
either be potted or planted thickly where they 
can he sheltered. It is the effect of the snow 
and cold rain alternating with frost which is 
so destructive to Hollyhocks, and those who 
have not the convenience or the room to 
winter plants in pots may save them by dig¬ 
ging them up and laying them in by the heels 
in a slanting position in a warm, dry border. 
In April they may be replanted in freshly- 
prepared land, and will be all the stronger 
and better for the change. Offsets with little 
bits of roots attached may often be found in 
spring in sufficient numbers to keep up a small 
collection, lint the Hollyhock, like the Bose 
and all other florists’ flowers, must be constantly 
in course of renewal, i t„ young plants must in 
some form be propagated every year to take the 
places of those plants which die or become 
weakly. 

Propagating from cuttings .— This is a very 
easy matter when one knows how to set about it. 
The side shoots, which spring from the lower 
part of the main flower-spike, or stem, make ex¬ 
cellent cuttings when they are just getting firm, 
which is about the end of July. I have rooted 
these cat, to single eyes, and planted in a shady 
border; but, to make good work, there ought to 
be a covering of glass. If large numbers are 
required, they should have a frame or pit to 
themselves. If only a few are required, a hand- 
light or cloche will do. I like to have the frame 
set cn a hard bottom, with inclination facing the 
north. Place a thin layer of old rotten manure 
in the bottom; about 2 inches thick will be 
enough, and beat it flat with the spade; on this 
pnt 3 inches of light sandy compost, and a quar¬ 
ter of an inch of clean sand on the top; press it 
down moderately firm, making it smooth at the 
same time, and, about a couple of hours before 
the cuttings are inserted, water with a fine-rosed 
pot. The object of the layer of manure is to 
keep the base of the cutting moist without 
having to use the water pots beyond a mere 
surface sprinkling till the cuttings are rooted. 
The side shoots, as I have said, make excellent 
cuttings when about half ripe, which is usually 
about the time the first flowers are opening, or 
say from the last week of July till the end of 
August, according to situation and locality. The 
6hoots are cut into single eyes, leaving a conple 
of inches of the stem at the bottom, which is 
thrust into the prepared bed np to, but not quite 
burying, the eye. The piece of stem below the 
eye is of great value, as it steadies the bud in the 
soil, and affords support till roots are formed. 
The leaves will, of course, be removed, but it is 
a good plan to leave an inch or so of the leaf 
stalk. All the cuttings of one kind can be made 
and inserted in the bed in rows 3 inches apart, 
with about 2 inches of space between each, be¬ 
fore any other kind is begun with, placing a 
label with each sort. Where a large number of 
varieties are grown, some care is requisite to 
keep them separate. When the cuttings are all 
in, keep the frame close, shading if necessary on 
bright days, and sprinkle lightly when the sand 
appears dry. The cuttings will soon begin to 
grow, and then air mast be admitted, in small 
quantities at first, increasing the opening as the 
cuttings gather strength. As soon as roots are 
formed, pot the cuttings into small pots singly, 
placing them until established in a close frame, 
and then the lights may be drawn off. It is best 
to winter the young plants under cover—a turf 
pit will do admirably. It will be well to give 
them a shift into larger pots in February, and 
plant out in April. Sometimes Hollyhocks are 
potted upin autumn, kept under cover all the win¬ 
ter, and the young side shoots which have sprung 


from the base cut off and treated as cuttings, 
inserting them in 2j-inch pots, and plunging the 
pots in a gentle hotbed. This is done in 
spring, preferably in February or March. Occa¬ 
sionally they are grafted on pieces of roots or 
on the roots of vigorous seedlings. The grafting 
process, in my experience, is more reliable than 
cuttings in spring, as soft, young succulent 
growth is liable to suffer from damp. 

Propagat ing from seeds. —Seedlings are more 
vigorous than plants raised from cuttings ; and 
vigour is especially important in districts where 
the fungus is prevalent, hence it happens that 
many people who only grow Hollyhocks for the 
display they afford, without any thought of 
exhibiting, grow seedlings only, in some instances 
saving the seeds from the best flowers of their 
own growth, in others buying from some well- 
known trade grower, who makes a specialty of 
Hollyhocks. In either case, seedlings producing 
beautiful double flowers may bo obtained. 
Hollyhocks, under ordinary circumstances, are 
biennials— i.e., they flower the second year; but 
it is possible, by sowing the seed in pans early 
in the year, and placing the pans in a warm 
house, or in a hot-bed—a cucumber frame, for 
instance—and growing the young plants under 
glass, giving them the same attention as is 
commonly given to bedding plants, to make 
them blossom the same year. In some instances 
the blooming would be late in summer, or 
perhaps autumn, but they would all flower the 
same year with certainty. If any one with a 
diseased collection elects to fight the fungus, 
the same remedies which kill fungus generally— 
■namely, sulphur, soft soap, and lime in some 
form—are the most successful. 1 have got it 
under by the use of Gishurst compound, but 
one must always be on the watch, especially 
when dry weather sets in. If the foliage once 
becomes badly affected, there is no hope of saving 
it, and Hollyhocks do not put on a new covering 
of leaves, like some plants do. 

Varieties. —Countess of Craven, peach; Charles 
Eyre, dark crimson; Consul Beda, crimson; 
Cygnet, white; Earl of RosslyD, scarlet; Earl 
of Breartalbnne, scarlet; Fred. Chater, yellow; 
Glory, red; Gem of Yellows, yellow; Hercnles, 
crimson; James Anderson, rosy peach; Lady 
Middleton, blush; Lady W. W. Wynn, rose 
blush; Lord Lyon, cherry rose; Lady Rokeby, 
blush; Lord Clifden, crimson; Lord Rokeby, 
magenta; Mrs. Hastie, rose; Mrs. Bonce, car¬ 
mine; Mrs. F. McKenzie, scarlet ; Mrs. Downie, 
salmon rose; Purple Emperor, purple; The 
Prince, buff; William Thompson, rosy crimson. 

Some of the above varieties bare been in 
cultivation a good many years, bnt are none the 
worse for that., as new varieties, possessing 
superior merits to the old standard sorts, are 
not easily obtained. 

Carnations, Picotees, and Pinks. 

This little group of plants have long been 
great favourites with florists of limited means. 
They have always been made much of in the 
northern towns, and possessing the power of 
thriving in a smoky atmosphere better than 
most evergreen plants, they are well adapted 
for the suburban amatenr. Many of the large 
growers keep their collection always in pots, and 
have cool houses, covered with canvas or tiffany, 
for their display. A collection in flower managed 
after this fashion is a beautiful sight, but I know 
a good many little people who grow good 
flowers with their plants in beds, with only 
a glass frame to shelter them in winder, and a 
tiffany blind to hang over the bed when the 
plants are in blossom. The Carnation and 
Picotee, for the purpose of this article, may be 
classed as one; the Pink I will speak of later 
on. 

Soil and planting.—A deep, rich, somewhat 
gritty loam forms the best soil, and considering 
that a moderate sized bod may contain a good 
many varieties, the natural soil of the place, if 
of indifferent quality, should be changed, or 
improved, by taking out all the bad and filling 
in with good turfy loam, with which a little old 
cow-dung has been blended. Assuming that 
the plants are wintered in pots in a light, well- 
ventilated frame, the beds should be prepared 





192 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[June 30, 1883. 


early in winter, and thrown roughly into a ridge, 
or a series of ridges, to get well pulverised and 
sweetened. If there is any suspicion of wire- 
worm being present, the soil should be carefull}' 
turned, and every suspicious insect picked out, 
and, to make doubly sure, after the plants are in 
the bed insert slices of Carrot just beneath the 
surface, for the purpose of attracting the worms, 
when they may be captured and destroyed. In 
March the beds should be levelled down, and to¬ 
wards the end of the month, or beginning of 
April, the plants should be put out in pairs 18 
inches apart, which will leave plenty of room be • 
tween for layering the young shoots when fit for 
the purpose. The beds may be 4 feet wide, with 
one row of plants along the centre and a row on 
each side, or they may, if desired, be only 3 feet 
wide, containing two rows of plants only. Beds 
of either size with alleys between enables the 
cultivator to give the plants frequent attention 
during the growing season without treading on 
the bed. 

The routine work will consist of weeding, 
watering, and tying up the flower stems with 
care, and during the time this work is going on, 
very frequent, almost daily, attention will be 
needed to prevent the ties doing injury. To 
obtain very fine flowers, the buds should be 
thinned, and after the flower buds are formed, a 
mulch of very old manure all over the bed will 
be beneficial/ It keeps the soil in a nice moist 
condition, without so frequently having recourse 
to the waterpot as would otherwise be neces¬ 
sary. To obtain flowers with correct markings a 
thin shade will be necessary as soon as the 
flowers begin to expand. Occasionally a bud 
may, during a rapid season of growth, burst 
open prematurely, by cracking up the side. If 
the bud can be spared, remove it; if not, a bit of 
soft matting wound round to check the lateral 
movement, and give time for the bud to swell 
out in its normal state, will be found to answer. 

Propagation by layers .—This is the recognised 
mode of increase by the leading growers, and it 
is generally performed in July, when the young 
shoots are getting firm at the base. The 
requisites needed for the work are a sharp knife, 
some hooked pegs, and a supply of gritty com¬ 
post, to cover the wounded part, and induce an 
early formation of roots. All the shoots that 
can by any means be made to reach the earth 
may be layered. First place some of the gritty 
compost several inches deep round the base of 
the stool, then take each shoot in succession, 
strip off any leaves from the bottom of the branch 
that may be in the way, then make an incision 
on the underside of the branch, cutting half 
way through the stem in a slanting direction 
through a joint. Sometimes a piece of the 
tongued portion is removed, but this is hardly 
necessary, as simply cutting a slit in the stem 
arrests the sap at that point, which, when it is 
pegged down and buried firmly in the sandy 
compost, produces roots freely. If done during 
dry weather, or if dry weather sets in before the 
layers are rooted, watering should be had re¬ 
course to, in order to get the layers rooted early 
in autumn. After those young shoots that can 
reach the soil are layered, the others from the 
middle of the plants may be taken off and used 
as cuttings or pipings. Carnations and Picotees 
root as freely this way as do Pinks, and this 
plan is not so troublesome to perform as layer¬ 
ing, only the pipings will require to be covered 
with handlights, or be planted in a frame. It 
sometimes happens that plants turned out 
late, and which, perhaps, are weakly through 
being layered and potted late in autumn, 
spindle without making any grass, and not 
only will the flowers be poor, but the plants 
will probably die if allowed to flower at all. 
In this case it is better to sacrifice the flowers 
by cutting the spikes off, and encourage the 
production of growth which may possibly be 
strong enough to make cuttings. The remedy, 
of course, is to propagate early, and establish 
the plants in pots, so that they receive no 
check when planted out. 

Raising plants from seeds .—This is most 
interesting work, especially when set about in a 
systematic manner, i.e. t when the flowers are 
carefully fertilised with pollen from a variety 
calculated by the properties which both parents 
possess of raising improved flowers. Without 
this care is exercised there is very little 
chance of raising anything worth saving. Of 
course all seedlings, if the flowers are double, are 
worth a place in the,border for t^e production 


Jigitizeo D 


i the^border for the pr 

Go gle 


of flowers for cutting, as scarcely anybody has 
too many Carnations or Picotees for cutting. 
Having decided upon the parentage of the pro¬ 
posed seedlings (and as a rule both should be¬ 
long to the same class), a little before the blooms 
are quite expanded, or at any rate before the 
anthers are mature or fit to burst, two or three 
of the inner petals should be removed from the 
female parent, as well as all the stamens from 
the same flower, with a small pair of propa¬ 
gating scissors, bnt in no way to interfere with or 
injure the styles. The blossom intended to 
furnish the pollen is then operated upon, but in 
a different manner, as in this case the stamens 
must be left, removing the style or stigma and 
a few of the inner petals. These latter must be 
carefully extracted so as not to injure the base 
of the stamens. As a rule, the top flowers in each 
plant are the best to save seed from, and as soon 
as the pollen is in a fit condition it may be 
applied with a small camel-hair pencil to the 
style of the female parent. The saving of really 
choice seeds is an important matter, and is best 
carried out under a glass roof of some kind. The 
pods should be carefully gathered when ripe 
enough. All seeds of this class of plant keep 
best in the pod till spring, when they should he 
rubbed out and sown in a gentle warmth—the 
greenhouse or a slight hotbed will do. The 
seedlings should be potted as they require it, 
and may either be kept in the pots the first year 
and be planted out in March of the second year, 
or be planted out as soon as large enough the 
first year. All I have written will apply as well 
to the Picotee as the Carnation. E. Hobday, 


VEGETABLES. 


CAPSICUM TOMATO. 

This Tomato forms apparently a connecting 
link between the Capsicum and Tomato, lienee 
its name. It forms a vigorous, upright, and much 
branched bush. Its fruit is regularly channelled, 
dark green when young, but afterwards be¬ 
coming bright red; the flesh is dry, somewhat 



Fruit of the Capsicum Tomato (naturaf size ) 

scanty, and rather insipid. As it does not come 
to maturity in the climate of Paris, it would 
naturally require the protection of a glass roof 
to ripen it in this country. A curious fact con¬ 
nected with this plant is that secondary fruits 
push from the eyes of those first formed. In the 
first place, there is a sub-conical protuberance 
which becomes deformed as it increases in size, 
and as regards colour it differs in no way from 
the parent fruit. J. C. 

TOMATOES ALL THE YEAR ROUND. 
Where Tomatoes are fruited under glass, and 
ripened early in spring or during winter, I find 
no kind to equal the Orangefield. It makes 
growth quickly and sets fruit freely, even in 
winter, when we have bnt little sunshine. 

In pots. — Being dwarf, the Orangefield 
seldom exceeding 2.J feet or 3 feet in height, it 
is very suitable for pots, especially where other 
plants are grown in the same house or pit. In 
10-inch or 12-inch pots each plant will on an 
average produce some thirty good-sized fruits, 
which always ripen well, and are good in flavour 
even when grown in artificial heat. In order tc 


have ripe Tomatoes all the year round, seed 
must be sown four times a year, and there mu9t 
be plenty of room to accommodate a good 
number of pots. I grow a number of plants in 
10-inch pots in a span-roofed Peach house fitted 
with a stage on each side of the centre pathway, 
and from plants thus situated I pick a large ' 
number of fruits during the spring and early 
summer months. The seed is sown early in 
February, three seeds being placed in a 3-inch 
pot in light soil. 

Soil. —They are placed in a Cucumber house ° 
at work, where they germinate freely, and are 
soon fit to pot off into 3-inch pots in rich, fibry 
loam mixed with a portion of leaf-mould and a 
sprinkling of silver sand to keep the compost 
open. After potting I replace the plants in the 
same temperature in the Cucumber house until 
they fill their pots with roots; they then require 
shifting into 6-inch pots, using good, fibry loam 
with a portion of rotten manure or decayed leaf- 
mould and a good sprinkling of old lime rubbish. 

The lime rubbish keeps the compost open, and 
the young roots seem to like it. Tomatoes “ 
cannot withstand sour, stiff soil, in which they 
always have a sickly appearance, and do but & 
little good. As soon as they fill the G-incli pots 
with roots shift them into their fruiting pots, 
using good, sound, turfy loam broken into pieces 
about the size of pigeons' eggs, and adding a 
third of old hqtbed manure and a good sprinkling 
of old lime rubbish broken fine. I use one 
6-inch potful of bone-meal to every bushel of 
potting soil, incorporating it well with the soil 
before using it. I transfer the plants to the 
Peach honse soon after starting it for forcing. 

The temperature kept up in this house suits the 
Tomatoes, which grow freely and set plenty 
of fruit, although considerably shaded by the 
foliage of the trees when they get into full leaf. 

Staking and watering.— Soon after pot¬ 
ting I procure some straight stakes, from 3i 
feet to 4 feet in height; one stake is placed to 
each plant, and the branches are tied loosely to 
the stakes. As soon as the fruit begins to colour 
we use weak liquid manure made from fresli 
horse droppings steeped in a tub of water. 
When fresh made we use about a pint of the 
liquid to every gallon of clear water. When 
liquid is used too soon the plants make more 
foliage than is wanted, and if potted in good 
soil the latter will carry them on till the fruits 
begin to colour. With seed sown the first week 
in February, and the plants grown on quickly, 
one is enabled to pick ripe fruit about the end 
of April if grown in a Peach house, and earlier 
if grown in a higher temperature. I only grow 
one crop upon the same plants, as I find it more 
profitable to keep a stock of youDg ones coming 
on to succeed those that have fruited than to 
try to recruit exhausted plants. 

Successional sowings.— Where a house is 
devoted to the cultivation of Tomatoes, strong 
varieties may be planted to be trained under 
the roof, while good crops of Orangefield may 
be had from pots placed upon the front of the bed 
in which the permanent plants are growing. The 
produce of a second sowing, made about the 
middle of March, will succeed the early’ plants. 
The young plants from this will require the 
same treatment as that described until they are 
in their fruiting pots, when they may be placed, 
in a cool orchard house or deep pit, in which' 
they will be ripe before the outdoor crop comes ' 
in, and succeed the first crop, which generally 
lasts until the beginning of July. A third solv¬ 
ing should be made in the first week in July ’ 
The produce of this will only require to be grovvi 
in a cool house or pit until the end of Septem 
her or beginning of October, when it may bi 
placed in a house in which the temperature i 
kept up as near 60° as possible. Ripe fruit ma’ 
thus be picked in December and on to the ne\ 
year. A fourth sowing should be made in Sep i 
tember, and the young plants, the result of thi: 
should be grown in a warm house, and will p T( 
duce ripe fruit early in spring. The plants wi 
grow and fruit freely in a Cucumber house 
work in the winter months. The same txea ■ 
ment will be found to agree with the strong, 
growing varieties if grown in pots. The Qrang 
field is equally suitable for growing out-of-doo 
in summer; being dwarf, it is suitable f 
planting against low walls or on bare spaces c 
walls on which fruit trees are grown. q 

9887 .—Making a Mushroom "beti 

Mushrooms may be grown in pots, boxes 




Juki 30, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


193 


lumpers. Each box may be 3 feet long, and 1 k 
feet broad, and 7 inches in depth. Let each 
box be half filled with horse man are from the 
stables (the fresher the better, and if wet, to be 
dried for three or four days before it is put into the 
holes): the manure to be well beaten down in the 
box. After the second or third day, if any heat 
has arisen amongst the manure, break each 
spawn brick into three parts as equally as pos¬ 
sible, then lay the pieces about 4 inches apart 
open the surface of the manure in the box; 
here they are to lie for six days, when it will 
probably be found that the side of the spawn 
next the manure has begun to run in the manure 
below; then add one and a half-inch more of 
fresh manure on the top of the spawn in the 
box, and beat it down as formerly. In the course 
of a fortnight, when you find that the spawn 
has run through the manure, the box will be 
ready to receive the mould on the top; this 
mould must be 2^ inches deep, well beaten down, 
and the surface made quite even. In the space 
of fire or six weeks the Mushrooms will begin to 
come up; if then the mould seems dry, give a 
gentle watering with lukewarm water. The box 
will continue tp produce for six weeks or two 
months, if duly attended to by giving a little 
water when dry, for they need neither lieht nor 
free air. If cut as button Mushrooms, each box 
will yield from twenty-four to forty-eight pints, 
according to the season and othercircumstances. 
Thsy may be kept in dark, dry cellars, or any 
other places where the frost will not reach them. 
And by preparing in succession of boxes. Mush¬ 
rooms may be had all the year through. They 
may be grown without the manure anil be of a 
finer flavour. Take a little straw and lay it care¬ 
fully in the bottom of the Mushroom box, about 
an inch thick or rather more. Then take some 
of the spawn bricks and break them down—each 
brick into about ten pieces, and lay the frag¬ 
ments on the straw, as close to each other as 
they will lie. Cover them up with mould 3J 
riches deep, and well pressed down. When the 
surface appears dry, give a little tepid water, as 
directed for the last way of raising them ; but 
this method needs about double the quantity of 
water that the former does, owing to having no 
moisture in the bottom, while the other has the 
manure. The Mushrooms will begin to start in 
a month or five weeks, sometimes sooner, some¬ 
times later, according to the heat of the place 
where the boxes are situated. The spawn may 
be obtained from seedsmen, or be collected from 
meadows.— CEI.ER KT AUDAX. 

Slags are busy amongst the freshly planted 
brassica tribe. I find a layer of coal ashes put 
r rand the stem of each plant to be a great pro. 
.-iion. Lime soon loses its caustic properties ; 
it is excellent for giving light dustings on 
dewy nights, as every slug which it touches 
I feri^hes, bat those underground defy it; they 
UDot, however, get over the ashes. Tush on the 


Marrow, Enfield Market, and Early Fulham, or 
Battersea Cabbage. The Early York and 
London Colewort being excellent for using iri a 
half-grown state, these are frequently sown thinly 
in drills in market gardens, and allowed to remain 
until pulled up and tied in bunches for market. 
J. Groom, Gotport. 

Cutting Asparagus. — The season for 
this delicious vegetable is now nearly over, for if 
the catting is continued after the longest day it 
is only at the expense of the plants' vigour for 
another year, as they must have time to perfect 
a good head of growth, or the roots will suffer. 
This season Asparagus was late in making its 
appearance, but since warmer weather has pre¬ 
vailed the beds have yielded a good supply. I 
find it best to cut all the growth off closely up to 
themiddleof June, and then only to entthe finest, 
allowing all the smaller heads to grow at will, 
and by the end of Jnne to cease cutting alto¬ 
gether ; keep the beds quite clear of weeds, a 
good dressing of salt beiDg a great assistance in 
keeping down all soft annual weeds, and 
Asparagus is certainly benefited by the applica¬ 
tion, especially in light soils, as it creates mois¬ 
ture. Asparagus delights in light rather than 
heavy soil, and about here, although the soil is 
naturally poor, loose, and stony, the Asparagus 
flourishes and keeps healthy far longer than in 
rich, heavy soils. The best dressing being sea¬ 
weed, we collect it during the winter and lay it 
on the surface of the beds, and in the early 
spring months it is lightly forked in. It is a 
decided mistake to bnry the crowns under a 
great depth of soil, but on the other hand, they 
can be too lightly covered; 3 in. or 4 in. of fine, 
light soil placed over the crowns appears to pro¬ 
duce the best result. Old potting soil may be 
utilised for this purpose with advantage.— 
J. Groom, Gosport. 

Cucumbers for profit.— Not many years 
ago Cucumber forcing was, to those who well 
understood the work, one of the most profitable 
of market industries, but I do not think that 
prices are quite so good in early spring as 
formerly, probably owing to the fact that 
Cucumber culture is in some localities now 
carried out on a very large scale indeed, and 
that the free growing, hardy (so called) hybrid 
varieties, which are such sure and heavy bearers 
as to render the production of a crop a matter 
of perfect certainty, are much grown. From 
February to the middle of April is the best time 
forprice. In May not more than from 4s. to 6s. 
per dozen can be relied on, but a friend of mine 
tells me that at that low figure they pay him 
better than any other crop. 

Early Purple-top Munich Turnip.— 
There have been from time to time contradictory 
statements as regards the merits of this Tnrnip. 
It is now, however, pretty well known, and the 
general opinion is, that it is well worth attention, 
on account of its earliness, and it is very much 


f -mting of Broccoli, Leeks, Endive,Ac, foraweek 
r.iw is worth a fortnight later on ; depend most 
s: such wint er greens as defy an ordinarily severe 
xinier. We ought to remember that ours is a 
Tthejn country, aud should be prepared for the 
rsst.— CK 

Cabbage for winter and spring.— The 

s-ason is now at hand for sowing the main crop 
if Cabbage for winter and spring. It is a good 
u to sow some of the medium-sized varieties 
f Cabbage earlier than is advisable for spring 
se, as tbey come in during the winter, or very 
uly in spring, and by planting them thickly on 
ground, they may be used in a half-grown 
ate, when they are even more prized by many 
is a vegetable than when allowed to attain 
-fger proportions. The dates of sowing I find 
list useful are about July 1, again the loth or 
’--idle of the month, and for a late crop the 
-zd of the month, or earlj in August. The first 
sing -will provide plants for going out directly 
; land is cleared of Potatoes, and if planted 
'lot apart each way, will cover the ground 
-d-se winter sets in. The second sowing will 
the best for main spring crops, to be planted 
•t*r Onions or other crops that are cleared off 
the end of September. These may be 
2 feet apart row from row, and 1J 
Vs in the row. The late sowing may 


tier remain in the seed bed until February, or 
'Practicable, planted about 3 inches apart on 
“Wiered border, and finally planted ont early 
a Trine. The varieties I find always reliable 
Wheeler's Imperial H^ajtwelW Jl^jy 


liked for some culinary purposes. It has, how-ever, 
a somewhat strong taste, and is not to be com¬ 
pared for mildness of flavour with the old early 
Dutch or Stone varieties. It will doubtless hold a 
place in gardens where very early vegetables are 
in request, hut I do not think it will supersede the 
old Borts where quality is the first question con¬ 
sidered.—J. 

Turnip-rooted Beet.— This is excellent early in the 
season. We are now pulling it quite large enough for 
use from seeds sown in March. The same thing could 
not have been done with the long-rooted kinds. Its 
flavour and colour too are excellent.—E. H. 

Bones for draining pots.— Not having 
seen any reply to “ R. W.’s” remarks about the 
value of bones for draining pots, Ibeg to say I have 
used them with great advantage. Three years 
ago, having enlarged my conservatory, and so 
potted up a greater number of plants than 
usual, I ran short of crocks and used some pieces 
of tones instead. When the time for the spring 
shift came, I noticed that some plants were much 
finer than others, and on shifting them found 
that in each case it was where bones had been 
used. So marked was the difference, that after 
shifting the first few, I could tell at once before 
knocking the plants out of the pots, whether 
crocks had been used or bones. This led me to 
put a piece or two of bone in each [lot for the 
last two years, and the plants have done better 
through the winter than ever befoie. When you 
come to shift the plants, the bones look as 
though all the goodness had been completely 
sucked ont of them.— Upper Tooting, 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

HARDY CYCLAMENS. 

Cyclamens are, excepting the Persian one, 
as hardy as Primroses; but they love the shelter 
and shade of low bushes or hill copses, where 
they may nestle and bloom in security. That 
they are hardy is not. a reason why they should 
thrive in a bare, exposed border. In such places 
as they naturally inhabit there is usually the 
friendly shelter of Grasses or branchlets about 
them, so that the large and handsome leaves arc 
not so exposed that they are torn to pieces by 
wind or hail. Thus, for example, the Ivy-leaved 



llardy Cyclamen (C. ncapolitanum). 


Cyclamen is in full leaf throughout the winter 
and early spring, and for the sake of the beauty 
of the leaves alone it is desirable so to place the 
plants that they may be saved from injury. By 
acting on these considerations it is easy enongb 
to naturalise tbe hardier kinds of Cyclamen in 
many parts of the country. Good drainage is 
necessary for the successful culture of Cycla¬ 
mens in the open air. The species grow naturally 
among broken rocks and stones mixed with 
vegetable soil, grit, Ac., and are therefore not 
liable to be surrounded by stagnant, water. 
The tuber should in all cases be buried beneath 
the surface of the earth and not exposed, 
as in the case of the Persian Cyclamens 
grown in pots. The chief reason for this is 
that in some species the roots issue from the 
upper surface of the tuber only. They enjoy 
plenty of moisture at the roots at all seasons; 
they thrive best in a rich, friable, open soil, with 
plenty of well-decayed vegetable matter in it. 
They are all admirably adapted for the rock 
gardeu, enjoying warm, sheltered nooks, partial 
shade and shelter from dry, cutting winds. They 
may be grown on any aspect if the essential con¬ 
ditions above mentioned be secured for them, 
but an eastern or south-eastern aspect is best, 
always provided there is partial shade. We 
have seen them growing under trees among 
Grass, where they flowered profusely every year 
without attention. The best kinds are C. Atkinsi, 
white; C. Coum, pink; and C. ibericum, rose, all 
of which may be had at a moderate price at any 
good nursery. Hardy Cyclamens may also bo 
raised from seed. 

The Magpie Pansy. —Where Pansies are 
grown for spring bedding, this variety deserves 
a place. When planted in the centre of a small 
bed, with a suitable edging, it makes as fine a 
display in spring as one could desire, com¬ 
mencing to flower early in April, and producing 
an abundant crop of blossoms well into the 
summer; but when we get hot, dry weather, the 
flowers lose their beautiful white blotches, which 
show them off to such excellent advantage in the 
early months of the year. This Pansy is also 
equally effective in mixed borders of hardy 
plants, or it may be used at intervals along with 
other varieties of Pansies, or other dwarf early- 
flowering plants, or as an edging to flower bor¬ 
ders. It is a strong grower and a free bloomer, 
its large maroon-coloured flowers, blotched with 
white op each jietal, making it distinct from 



194 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Junk 30, 1883. 


most other varieties. Although towards the end 
of their flowering season the blossoms generally 
lose, as has been stated, a good deal of the white 
blotch, it reappears the following spring. I have 
known people unacquainted with this fact dig np 
and destroy their whole stock, imagining that 
the variety had permanently changed its 
character. Many Pansies with maroon flowers 
might be found, but not with the same white 
blotch. It must either be grown from cuttings, or 
old plants may be broken into pieces, saving all the 
young growths having roots attached to them. 
Plant them ia nursery rows if required for spring 
bedding, leaving 9 inches between Ihe rows, and 
from 0 inches to 8 inches plant from plant. If 
cuttings are used they should be put in about 
May or June. Choose young fresh shoots from 
the centres of old plants ; cut them to a joint, 
and plant them in a handlight or in some shady 
corner, keeping them shaded for a few days until 
they begin to emit roots, when the shading can 
be dispensed with. When well rooted, plant them 
in nursery rows, when they will soon become 
established, and make fine plants for planting in 
the flower garden or borders in spring. Cut 
flowers of this Pansy may be used with advantage 
for filling small vases for room decoration, and 1 
have employed them with good effect in speci¬ 
men glasses on the dinner-table along with a 
few light sprays of some Fern.—W. C. 

Pelargoniums in flower beds —Plant-1 
ing out of pots is undoubtedly the most econo¬ 
mical plan, for with one good soaking of water 
they are usually independent of further artificial 
supplies for the season, and in open sunny 
positions, where the atmosphere is bright and 
clear, planting out is best. But in suburban 
gardens, where, from the confined space and 
smoky atmosphere, the plants do not usually 
flower well, the best plan is to plunge the pots, 
and cover the soil with Cocoanut fibre. The 
latter not only gives a neat finished aspect to the 
beds, but reduces the necessity for suohfrequent 
watering as would otherwise be needed. In 
cases where the plant refuses to flower freely the 
best way is to use kinds with good foliage, such 
as the bronzes, gold and silver tricolors, bicolors, 
and variegated sorts, which make effective beds 
in conjunction with Coleus and other fine- 
foliaged plants that are known to succeed in 
such positions. There is one great advantage 
belonging to this system, viz., that of the readi¬ 
ness with which any plant that fails can be 
removed and replaced by another, for when a 
garden is of but limited dimensions there is all 
the more reason to have it in a high state of 
perfection. In winter, too, there need be little 
trouble in keeping plants that are thoroughly 
established in their pots, compared with those 
lifted and potted from open beds, with roots 
to make in the very worst period of the year. 
—J. 


The Mlmulue as a bedding plant.— 

For diversity and brilliancy of colour, few plant s 
can excel the Mimulus. With the least trouble 
it may be had in flower from May to November, 
luxuriating alike in sunshine and in shade, but 
preferring moderate shade and a moist situation, 
under which conditions it will carpet the ground 
with grand blossoms uninterruptedly through¬ 
out the time stated. Sow the 6eed in a shallow 
pan early in February, and place near the glass 
in a temperature ranging from 60° to 70°. Keep 
the soil moist by gentle waterings through a fine 
rose. When the plants are large enough to 
handle prick them outin boxes, preferring a com¬ 
post of leaf-mould, sand, and loam in equal 
proportions. Return the plants to the same 
quarters, and attend to watering as suggested 
for their early stage of growth. When the plants 
have covered with their foliage the allotted space 
in the boxes, they may be placed in a cool house 
for a week or so, thence to a cold frame, and 
gradually exposed to the open air by removing 
the glass covering. By pursuing this mode of 
culture the plants will be in condition for plant¬ 
ing out by the latter end of April, and may be 
formed into beds, lines, or clumps, as desired. 
Should the soil be in a dry state, water copiously 
before planting. In order to increase any par¬ 
ticular variety, propagating by offsets is neces¬ 
sary. Break up the plants into as many divisions 
as there are crown-growths. These offsets may 
be inserted into little pots or boxes, using 
compost similar to that recommended, but with 
rather more sanddnsorporated. Blace them on 
« shelf in a eoolfioueq n^rr '^^glqsa; after ad- 




ministering sufficient Water to penetrate the 
soil. The subsequent requirements of the plants 
are similar to that recommended for seedlings. 
The Mimulus may be grown successfully for the 
decoration of the conservatory by simply placing 
a few of the offsets into pots 6 inches in diameter, 
and placing them in a moist heat close to the 
glass until they have established themselves in 
the pots and the growths are a few inches long, 
when they may be 6taked and hardened by care¬ 
ful exposure in a part of the conservatory the 
least subject to cold draughts. Potting ought 
to take place in February. Accompanying these 
remarks, I beg to forward a dozen dissimilar 
blooms gathered from our seedling beds out-of- 
doors. They are taken from plants sown and 
otherwise attended as described in these notes. 
The editor’s opinion as regards the quality of 
those flowers will be most acceptable.—A. K. 
[The flowers, though not so large as some we 
have seen, were rich and varied in colour, and 
of good substance.—E d.] 

Violets ia September. —Violets would 
be rather unseasonable in September, but 
we have had the Neapolitan to produce a few 
stray blooms at that period. During my ex¬ 
perience of their culture, I have found them 
extremely capricious. One time I considered 
myself foremost as a Violet cultivator, and I 
believe I was the first to exhibit them in London, 
and I was highly congratulated as having pro¬ 
duced what had not often been seen before. The 
past two years in a different locality has con¬ 
vinced me that I owed much of my success to 
local circumstances. My stock of the Nea¬ 
politan and Marie Louise consisted of a dozen 
of each two years ago, and they number about 
the same now. The Czar we manage satisfactorily 
in frames. It would be interesting to know 
where in Lancashire one could see three or four 
kinds of Violets well grown. Perhaps someone 
will kindly supply the information.—IV. P. R. 

White Pinks. —Amongst the many beau¬ 
tiful old-fashioned border flowers that have 
lately become very popular again, none are more 
justly entitled to good culture than the white 
fringed Pink. Its delicious fragrance lias lately 
been most acceptable in the mixed borders, good 
large clumps in shrubbery borders being like 
masses of sdow, so completely are they covered 
with blossoms, and for cutting the flowers are 
well adapted. The plants may be readily in¬ 
creased by cuttings of the soft young growths 
inserted under hand-glasses in July, or by layers. 
But the readiest way of getting good-sized 
plants in one season is to wait until September, 
and then take good-sized pieces, slipped off the 
old plants with some old wood attached to the 
heel, make good-sized holes with a dibber, 
put in the cuttings, and, pressing the soil firmly 
arouDd them, nearly every one may bo relied on 
to grow, and produce a good crop of flowers the 
next season; and when young bushy plants are 
required for potting, filling window boxes, or 
any other purpose, the above plan is sure to give 
satisfaction. One old plant polled into pieces 
will give a large supply. I may add that although 
this Pink cannot be forced into flower very freely 
far in advance of its ordinary season of flower¬ 
ing, it is, nevertheless, very effective brought on 
in pots in a cold house, as it comes in at a season 
when white flowers are usually in great request 
for decoration.—J. Groom, Gos]>ort. 

Columbines. — Many readers, perchance, 
find it is difficult to recognise under the botanical 
appellation of Aquilegia those charming hardy 
garden flowers that from time immemorial have 
been known as Columbines. Those whose 
knowledge of these plants have been limited 
entirely to the common garden varieties, and are 
ignorant of the beautiful things known to some 
of us as species, can hardly comprehend the 
enthusiasm shown in many quarters for flowers 
that generally have been thought to be common¬ 
place. The garden kinds now include many 
double forms as well as singles, but the former 
are of a formal, lumpy appearance, and altogether 
lack elegance. The single varieties are varied 
and pretty, but seem to lack that charm found 
in the finer species, such as glandulosa, blue and 
white; ccerulea, blue and primrose ; chrysantha. 
pale yellow; canadense, red and yellow; and 
some few others, inclusive of those hybrids 
raised by Mr. Douglas and others that introduce 
various colours, whilst retaining all that charm 
and elegance of fenn found in such kinds as are 
those named, Glandulosa is one of the most 


beautiful, but it is dwarf and not so free as some 
other sorts; whilst in chrysantha and its 
hybrids we have robustness and great beauty. 

Seed of these lovely hardy flowers should be 
obtained and sown at once, then by the winter 
strong plants will result that will bloom finely 
next summer. Once obtained, all seed freely, 
and annual sowings will keep alive in all gardens 
an abundance of these truly beautiful Colum¬ 
bines.—A. D. 

Borders in Kensington Gardens — 

In that finely-placed mixed border in Kensington 
Gardens there is not one well grown or well 
chosen plant, bare earth and poor dwindling 
things everywhere. The trees and shrubs by the 
border, although overcrowded, give it many 
charms, and form a good background, if any 
good work were done with -the hardy flowers to 
which it is devoted. Either it ought to be wholly 
planted with shrubs or made a decent flower 
border of. We trust none of our readers will 
mistake the work there for what is right with 
hardy plants. 

Daffodils flowering twice. — Several 
fine double yellow Daffodils, haviDg flowered 
very profusely, are in many cases now throw¬ 
ing up beautiful double white flowers. I never 
knew them do this before, and should be glad to 
know if others have observed such a freak.—. 
Muddle Bordeb. 

9881 — Plants for graves. —A grave 
garden is such a limited space that it is absolutely 
impossible to have plants in it in bloom for any 
considerable period, unless they are replaced 
frequently. We find nothing prettier in the 
winter than Primroses, Daisies (especially the 
variegated kinds). Golden-tipped Sedum (one of 
the most beautiful hardy carpet plants we have), 
Forget-me-nots, and similar early flowers; then 
in the summer replace by a few Lobelias, silver 
variegated Pelargoniums, Iresines, kc., with a 
carpet of golden Spergula or Sedum glaucum. 

It is not well to attempt too much in so small a 
space.—A. D. 

9888.— Maggots on Hollies.— Some more 
lucid description of the nature of the blight so 
called, but really maggots, infesting Hollies and 
destroying the leaves should be given in this 
case, as it is not so easy to state the nature of s 
the insect without further information. Still it 
seems obvious that it is doing much harm, and 
if well brushing the bushes with new birch 
brooms will not suffice to remove the pests, 
then it will be well to try the effects of smoke, 
but, of course, that can only be employed when 
no inconvenience will be felt by others. A mass 
of weeds, or damp litter, or green boughs, or 
other material set on fire and caused to 
smoulder and smoke slowly and penetrate the 
Hollies might do much good.—D. 

9891.— Aponogeton dletachyon. — No 
plant is more easily grown either in pond, tank, 
or aquarium than this. If planted in any of 
the above situations it will grow freely and 
take care of itself with about 12 inches deep 
of water and 3 inches of common garden soil 
to root in. Here it is quite hardy, and I have 
no doubt it would be the same at Bridport.— 

D„ (hiemtey. 

- I have a plant of this growing in a 

6-inch pot in sandy loam, the pot being sunk 
about a foot below the surface of the water. It 
seems quite hardy, as it has been growing in a 
barrel of water with other water plants unpro¬ 
tected all the winter, and is now throwing np its 
white Hawthorn-scented fiowers.The Aponogeton 
would no doubt do well planted out in a shallow 
pond, but not so well, I think, in running water. 

—J. K., Hornsey. 

9895.— Protecting Auriculas—The old. 

Lancashire weavers are said to have protected 
their Auriculas by means of a wooden weather¬ 
board attached to a wall or fence by hinges, the 
front of which, when down, was made to rest 
upon the edge of a board a few inches from tlxe 
ground; so that, the weather-board being in a. 
sloping direction, the rain ran off. Bat in these 
days of cheap glass, it is doubtful if this con¬ 
trivance would be very desirable. It certainly 
ought to be used only during continued heavy 
rains.—J. K., Hornsey. 

Annuals for autumn sowing.—I hsve found the 
following to he very useful annuals for sowing in autnnn 
In a smoky town, viz., Limnauthes Douglas!, Nemophlla 
Sileno pendula, Saponaria calabrica. Erysimum 1'crof 
skiauum, Centnnrea Cynnus and aurulea, Sweet Peas 
amt Stocks. Of the latter Mauve Beauty hau been verj 
tine with me all this spring.—>1. S. 


Jtnre 30, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


195 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 


Extracts from a Garden Diary—July 2 to 

July 7. 

Potting Primulas and herbaceous Calceolarias: sow- 
in? Bath Cos Lettuce, Digswell Prize, and dwarf green 
Curled Endive and Spinach ; sowing Cucumbers for late 
crops; potting a batch of Roses in good strong loam ; 
planting out Autumn Giant and Self-protecting Broccoli; 
planting out a pit with Tender and True Cucumbers; 
training out and pegging down bedding plants; staking 
ami tying in plants on borders, and clearirg away 
decayed leaves and flowers : taking the nets off Straw¬ 
berries and putting them on Currants ; weeding amongst 
Leeks and giving them a little earthing up • sowing Non¬ 
pareil and Advancer Peas, Cabbages, and Early Horn 
Carrots; putting in Pelargonium cuttings; clipping 
ihmbs, and giving Peach trees in pots a top-dressing of 
manure: hoeing among fruit bushes and putting 
Epacrisea in cold pits ; digging up a large piece of Kid- 
sty Potatoes and placing them out thinly in the sun to 
ripen well for seed ; watering Celery and Cardoons; also 
Lettuce and Endive beds : drawing drills for Spinach and 
sell watering them previous to sowing; nailing and tying 
in all the leading shoots of fruit trees on walls and pinch¬ 
ing back all the breast wood ; sowiug Six-week Turnips, 
Long-podded Negro, and Sir Joseph Paxton French 
Beans; also a late crop of Broad Beans ; putting in cut¬ 
tings of Crassula coccinea; watering and mulching Peach 
trees and training conservatory creepers ; placing Camel¬ 
lias in Peach house where they can be shaded a little. 

Sowing Ne Plus Ultra Peas; planting Ten-week 
stocks; salting Asparagus and Carrot beds ; nailing up 
Tomatoes and outdoor Figs aud Vines, and watering 
.Scarlet Runners with guano water; sowing Sweet Basil 
and Chervil; taking up Shallots and Potato Onions, 
aud laying them out in the sun to ripen; gathering Camo¬ 
mile flowers, also Sweet Basil, Horehound, and other 
berhs for drying; weeding and cleaning all Box edgings; 
nailing and tying in Bo-es on walls, and picking off all 
dead flowers : watering all newly-planted Broccoli, Cauli¬ 
flowers, and Tomatoes; sowing a border of Early Horn 
Carrots and a box of Intermediate Stocks ; clearing laud of 
early Peas, and digging it for late Cauliflowers ; leaving 
night air on Vineries and Peach houses in which fruit 
is ripening; sowiug Lettuces and Endive; potting up 
Strawberry runners for forcing; tying up Dahlias and 
thinning mem out where growing too thickly ; earthing 
up Celery, when the soil is dry and in workable condi¬ 
tion ; layering Carnations ; cutting up turf and putting it 
in water to soak for layering Strawberries on; sowing 
Mignonette in pots for autumn flowering, also sowing 
Prickly Spinach and Radishes ; planting Cauliflowers for 
late supply, and pricking out Wallflowers; clipping 
hedges and cutting Laurels; sowing Turnips, having pre¬ 
viously watered the drills, into which a little guano has 
been placed : plan ting Neapolitan Cabbage Lettuce, Sweet 
Basil, and Marjoram; clipping Arabia and Cerastium 
edgings, and digging land for late French Beans. 

Glasshouses. 

Cum beks generally grow very luxuriantly this 
month, and will require frequent attention to 
keep them in order. Plants of Stephanotis that 
have flowered should receive a thorough cleansing 
from insects and dust that may have got on 
them while flowering. Young stock of Gardenias 
should now be growing freely, and may be 
gradually inured to cooler treatment under 
lighter shadings. This change will induce them 
to form flower-buds, which will get well ad¬ 
vanced by the autumn, when the plants will be 
in proper condition for supplying cut blooms 
inring the early winter months. Poinsettias 
now fairly started must be placed in positions 
close to the glass in warm frames, in order to 
keep them dwarf and stocky. Every gleam of 
sunshine must be allowed to fall on them, com¬ 
bined with very free ventilation. See that they 
do not suffer from want of water at the roots 
from this time till their flowering is over, other¬ 
wise they will cast their bottom leaves, and very 
much of their beauty will be lost. Epiphyllums 
will now enjoy a hot, sunny position, but they 
must not be allowed to suffer from lack of water 
to the roots, otherwise the growths shrivel, and 
it will take some time to restore them to plump¬ 
ness. 

Successional batches of tuberous Begonias, 
Coleus, Balsams, and similar useful plants should 
now be coming forward to take the place of those 
that are past their best. Hydrangeas as they 
pass out of flower should bo placed in sunny 
positions outside, and should receive treatment 
•imilar to that given to Pelargoniums, except 
*hat a more liberal supply of water at the roots 
will be necessary. All the cuttings that can be 
got from Hydrangeas should now be inserted 
singly in 2|-inch pots and placed in a brisk 
xittom-heat, removing them to cooler quarters 
the moment they are rooted. These, if grown on 
j. mol structures close to the glass, and kept to 
cae stem, will develop fine heads of bloom early 
next season. The placing out-of-doors of the 
tenderer kinds of greenhouse plants may now be 
proceeded with, but really valuable plants will 
'■* better left under glass for some time. Keep 
*U newly-exposed plants well syringed and 
dewed over to assist them in retaining their 

— Google 


Primulas. —Every attention should now be 
given to these in the way of pot-room and plenty 
of light, with no more shade than is required to 
break the sun's rays and prevent the foliage 
from assuming a sickly hue. If seeds were sown 
at intervals of about two months, there will be 
a good prospect of a continuous succession from 
autumn up to spring, and to have the stock in 
such order as will enable it to produce a full 
crop of flowers there must be no want of atten¬ 
tion, especially in giving more root-room as 
required. Plants of the last sowing should be 
encouraged to make growth, so as to admit of 
their being got into their blooming pots before 
the season is too far advanced to allow them to 
attain size enough to flower well. On no account 
allow the stock of either double or single kinds 
to stand too close together from the first, for 
where this occurs the leaf-stalks get drawn out 
weakly, a defect that cannot afterwards be 
remedied. The best place for Primulas in 
summer is in ordinary frames facing northwards 
at the north side of a low north wall with their 
heads close up to the glass. Thus situated they 
will get plenty of light, but not UDder the full 
force of the sun. The lights should be well 
tilted up back and front in the day-time, and a 
piece of garden netting should be pat on the 
glass in the middle of the day when the weather 
is bright. 

Heliotropes. —These must bo kept close to 
the glass when subjected to the warmth requisite 
to bring them into flower during autumn and 
winter; consequently, where they will have to be 
brought on in low pits, small plants such as can 
be grown up from spring-struck cuttings occupy¬ 
ing 6-inch or 8-inch pots should at once bo placed 
in such, regularly pinchiDg off the flowers as 
they appear. This is necessary in order to direct 
all their strength to the formation of growth. 
Large old Heliotropes are most useful where 
there are means of giving them the requisite 
room, as where these exist, if encouraged with 
a little warmth after the weather gets cold, they 
will go on blooming for months. With large 
examples of this description it is not so necessary 
to keep all the flowers nipped off now as in the 
case of small ones, but means must be taken to 
keep them growing freely by the aid of sufficient 
pet-room and frequent applications of manure 
water. 

Perpetual flowering Carnations.— The 
later-flowering stock of these will now be in fine 
bloom, and should be assisted with manure 
water once a week, which will induce them to 
push up strong shoots from the bottom that will 
flower later on. Plants that have been forced 
early should have their old flowering shoots well 
shortened back, so as to encourage the young 
shoots, which in free-growing varieties are 
always making their appearance; they should 
then be turned out of the pots without disturbing 
the balls of roots more than what occurs in 
removing the drainage, and be planted out in 
prepared soil, not too light, but with sand enough 
in it to admit of their being taken up and potted 
in the autumn without much breakage of their 
roots ; they must have an open situation fully 
exposed to the sun, and not be allowed to suffer 
through want of water. If well managed they 
will produce many more flowers than younger 
plants, and will not be so leggy or unsightly as 
where the old stems are allowed to grow up with¬ 
out cutting back. Young plants struck from 
cuttings in the winter or spring must have all 
the attention which they require, or it is useless 
to expect more than a meagre production of 
flowers. Move them as soon as necessary out of 
the small pots they occupy to others a couple of 
sizes larger, using good strong new loam, to 
which has been added a little leaf-mould with 
some sand, but not so much as is required by 
most soft-wooded plants, as if the soil is too 
light they will not be unlikely to refuse to move 
altogether. 

Flower garden. 

General work. —Boses need washing for 
the destruction of blight; bad flowers should be 
picked off once a week, and the growths of any 
that have done flowering should be shortened. 
Daisies, Pansies, Primroses, Polyanthuses, Violas, 
Pinks, and other spring flowers may now be pro¬ 
pagated by division, cuttings, or seeds ; they all 
do best in partial shade; a border having a north 
or east aspect is in every way suitable. Any 
strong plants to spare will do good autumn ser¬ 
vice in the mixed borders amongst Boses. 


Grass has grown well during the past month, 
and is still continuing to do so, necessitating 
frequent mowing and rolling to keep it in good 
condition; now is the time to form a good 
sward, and the closer and oftener it is cut and 
rolled the better will the bottom be, and the 
more effectually will it withstand the ensuing 
winter, should it be severe ; few things add more 
to the beauty of gardens than good and well- 
kept Grass, and the work is so simple that it 
should be by no means neglected. 

Weeds. —During wet weather it is almost 
impossible to maintain borders free from weeds ; 
in those instances where they are much over-run 
the best plan will be to lightly dig them over, 
taking care not to injure the roots of the trees, 
shrubs, or herbaceous plants ; where this cannot 
be done the weeds must be hoed up and raked 
off or hand-picked. Overgrown shrubs may be 
pruned back to within proper limits, and all 
herbaceous plants requiring it should have 
supports. Annuals must be thinned out, and all 
subjects in the way of Asters, Stocks, Heli- 
chrysums, Ac., still in store should be planted 
out in favourable weather without delay. Seeds 
of perennials may also be freely sown for stock 
next year or for spring bedding. 

Bedding plants.— Keep the flowers picked 
off Echeverias and other ground-work plants 
associated with them, such as Sedums and Saxi¬ 
frages, but the small flowers of Jlesembryanthe- 
mum cordifolium variegatum harmonise so well 
with succulents that they should be left. It will, 
however, be necessary to occasionally pick off the 
seed-pods in order to keep the plants in free 
growth. Tho most pleasing bed we have at the 
present time is an arrangement of large 
succulents, consisting of Yuccas, Agaves, and 
large growing Echeverias and Sempervivums, 
the whole being in a setting of the large, mauve- 
flowered Mesemfcryanthemum conspicuum, and 
the only attention it has ever had or needed 
since planting has been the keeping of the 
Mesembryanthemum pegged under the taller 
plants. In rain or sunshine, in fact in all 
weathers, these succulent arrangements are 
equally pleasing, and worthy of adopt ion on that 
ground alone, not to mention their desirability 
on the score of variety. Keep the undergrowths 
of sub-tropical plants neatly pegged down, and 
in cases in which such undergrowths have been 
deemed unnecessary the beds should be kept 
mulched with Cocoa fibre or leaf soil. For the 
present the flowers should be kept picked off 
Cannas, Castor-oils, ami tho like, and all that 
need tying and staking should receive that 
attention before any injury accrues from its 
neglect. 

Fruit. 

Hardy Fruit. —Soap-suds or clear water 
applied with force are the best antidotes for 
aphides, but they require frequent repetition, and 
before washing and dressing the trees, all the 
curled and blistered leaves and the worst affected 
and superfluous shoots should be removed, and the 
final tying in of shoots should be delayed until 
the trees are quite clean and healthy. Bears are 
now sufficiently advanced to have all the 
breast - wood out away at about, say, four 
joints from the main stem ; if cut closer they 
are apt to again break into strong wood growth 
rather than form fruit-buds. Currant and 
Gooseberry bushes having made much growth, 
thinning it out will he a matter of necessity. 
Summer pruning of these has many advantages, 
not the least being that the trees can be trimmed 
into any shape desired, and the fruit at the same 
time be exposed to the influences of the atmo¬ 
sphere. Currants and Cherries changing colour will 
require protection from birds; any that are to be 
reserved for a considerable time should be cleared 
of aphides and be closely covered up with 
hexagon netting. Kipe Strawberries often suffer 
more from mice and slugs than from birds, and 
it will be desirable to at once adopt precau¬ 
tionary measures against these; trap the former 
with the common figure of I trap, and the latter 
by means of baits of bran. If ItaspberTy stools 
have not yet been thinned, they should at once 
be reduced to four shoots each, or if thickly 
together three will be ample. Mulch the 
ground about them with good rotten manure, 
for drought wonld soon have a deteriorating 
effect. 

Peaches under glass.— When all the fruit 
has been taken from the early house, go over the 
trees and,remove the shoots which have performed 


196 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[June 30, 1883 


*heir office and can now be spared with advan¬ 
tage to the young growths intended for next 
year's fruiting. Tie in and regulate the latter, 
allowing plenty of room for free development 
of foliage and the free admission of light and 
air. Syringe regularly with pure water where 
the foliage is clean, and add soft soap or Gishurst 
compound on dull evenings to keep it clear of 
spider. Keep the inside borders regularly 
supplied with water, and renovate the mulching 
where the trees show signs of weakness or 
exhaustion from heavy cropping, but carefully 
guard against forcing them into a vigorous 
growth when they should be going to rest. 
The ventilators may now be left open by night 
and day, and when the buds are well made up, 
the roof lights, if possible, may be taken off, 
painted, and stored away ready for use early in 
the autumn. If time is an object, trees in houses 
in which the fruit is approaching its full size may 
now be subjected to a higher temperature than 
would have been safe before the fruit com¬ 
menced its last swelling, but it must be borne 
in mind that nothing in the way of quality is 
gained by it, increased size, colour, and flavour 
being the true tests of merit. I prefer a temper¬ 
ature ranging from 60° at night to 76° by day, 
with plenty of air and full exposure by drawing 
the lights off when the weather is very fine after 
the end of June. Where good soft water can be 
obtained the trees may be syringed every morning 
until the fruit has attained its fall size and shows 
signs of changing for ripening, but on no account 
should the afternoon syringing be performed 
when there iB danger of the foliage remaining 
wet after nightfall. If the roots are confined to 
internal borders, well drained, liberal supplies of 
water at the mean temperature of the house will 
be needful in this and later houses ; but where 
they run outside, the rains we have lately had, 
combined with good mulching, will keep them 
in a satisfactory state until the earth becomes 
much warmer than it is at the present time. See 
that the wood is thinly and evenly laid in in late 
houses and wall-cases, particularly where no 
heating apparatus has been provided for ripen¬ 
ing it up in the autumn ; pinch the points out 
of gross shoots where they are likely to rob the 
fruit or weaker parts of the trees, and elevate all 
that can be raised to the influence of sun and 
light as the work proceeds. Syringe well twice a 
day, leave the ventilators constantly open, and 
mulch the roots with some non - conducting 
material to counteract the drying influence 
of constant currents of air ; but guard against 
the use of over rich manure, which will force the 
trees into vigorous growth late in the season. 

W. C. 

Vegetables. 

Keep the hoe constantly going among growing 
crops, and prick out Broccoli, Savoys, and winter 
greens. If ground for them is not likely to be 
early at liberty I always sow as late as possible, 
so that the plants do not get drawn while they 
stand in the seed beds. Early Potatoes now 
occupy the ground where I intend to plant my 
spring Broccoli; therefore with me pricking out 
the plants will be a necessity, otherwise I prefer 
planting from the seed bed. All Celery for late 
spring use should now be pricked out. Keep 
early Celery in the trenches growing by giving 
it daily a slight damping. It should be kept 
constantly growing. Shallots and Garlic, in 
many instances, will be ready to be taken up; 
they should not be allowed to remain after the 
tops have dried off, but pulled up and left on the 
ground a day or two to dry, and afterwards tied 
up in convenient bundles for use, and hung up 
in a shed or other airy, cool, dry room. The 
ground where they have been grown, if well 
dressed when they were planted, will not now 
require digging, but simply levelling and weeding, 
drawing drills afterwards for the sowing of 
Endive or black-seeded Bath Cos Lettuce for 
early winter use. If it be thought desirable to 
preserve the stock of any good variety of vege¬ 
tables, such as Cauliflowers, Lettuce, &c., select 
the most perfect types for seeding, and stake or 
otherwise mark them in order that they do not 
get cut when the crop is being used. No two 
kinds of Cabbages, Brussels Sprouts, or Cauli¬ 
flowers should ever be seeded together if the 
stock be desired pure, for bees are wonderful 
hybridists, and are not particular as to how or 
on what they operate. Tomatoes are now growing 
freely, and will require to have their growths 
trained or tied in ydf>there be a tendency to 

Digitized* GO gLC 


strong growth, repress it by severe pinching of 
the lateral growth, an operation which also 
promotes fruitfulness. If the fruit set too thickly, 
thin it out and remove all the large leaves that 
keep the light off it. As a rule, high feeding is 
not necessary for Tomatoes, but if bearing freely 
they may be assisted by an occasional watering 
with weak liquid manure. 

Where Spinach is required all through the 
season seed must be sown regularly every fort¬ 
night, as it will not stand much beyond that 
period without running to seed ; any vacant spot 
that can be cleared from other plants may bo 
used for this purpose. As the crop of Cabbage 
is cut strip the leaves from the stumps, as they 
only harbour slugs and caterpillars; give the 
ground a good soaking with manure water to 
assist the stools to throw out fresh side shoots, 
which will furnish through the remainder of tire 
season a useful supply of tender sprouts. Leeks 
which were sown at the proper time and thinned 
out in the seed-bed, so as to give them enough 
room to grow, will now be in good order for 
planting. The ground they are to occupy should 
be well dug to the depth of 15 inches and broken 
fine, so as not to leave any large hard lumps. 
Plant in rows 15 inches apart, with 8 inches or 
9 inches between the plants, and in planting use 
a stout dibber that will make holes 8 inches deep 
and 2 inches or a little more in diameter. In 
these place the plants, dropping in soil to the 
depth of 1 inch or 2 inches, but no more, leaving 
the rest of the hole open and giving a good 
watering, so as to Bettle the soil. By only 
partially filling the hole the requisite air gets 
down to the roots, and the opening above affords 
space for the stems of the plants to thicken, and 
also blanches them in a way that imparts the 
peculiar delicate flavour which a well-grown 
Leek possesses. If the ground be good and well 
enriched, they will, under this treatment, grow 
almost as thick as a man’s wrist, and are far 
superior to the small tough, strong-flavoured 
specimens of this vegetable which are often to 
be met with. G. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

The long continuance of dry weather we have 
had has necessitated a great deal of watering; 
but this, however thoroughly performed, is not 
nearly as beneficial or effectual as a genial 
shower. So that, on the whole, not much pro¬ 
gress can yet have been made by any kind of 
bedding plants : still we must do the best we 
can at least to keep them alive, hoping that a 
speedy rain may set them all a growing. 

Carnations must now be neatly, but not 
tightly, tied up to slender stakes; a dose of good 
manure water at the roots about twice a week 
will not only induce finer blooms, but also 
greatly prolong the flowering season by causing 
side shoots to develop and bring forth succes- 
sional crops of flowers. It should be borne in 
mind that the ordinary clove Carnations are not 
the only ones suitable for bedding, but that the 
beautiftil show or stage kinds, as well as tree 
Carnations in almost all varieties, may be 
cultivated out-of-doors with the best results, in 
any fairly good soil and situation. The beautiful 
Alegatiere is a splendid bedder, and we have 
frequently seen plants of this grand variety 
4 feet high, and nearly as much through, covered 
with scores of brilliant Bcarlet Jblossoms each 
the size of a small rose. 

Tuberous Begonias do splendidly almost 
anywhere if planted out in an open and sunny 
position ; plants raised from seed last season, 
started under glass in good time and carefully 
hardened off, may be planted out as early as the 
first week in this month, or even sooner, though 
it is not yet too late to do so and yet have a good 
display before autumn. These should now be 
in full growth, if not in flower; but exceedingly 
good results may be obtained from plants raised 
from seed sown early in this spring, grown on 
quickly, slightly hardened, and planted out 
about the present time. This plan is extensively 
pursued by most of the large growers; of course 
a failure here and there must be expected, but 
the general effect is extremely good, the trouble 
| of raising bulbs is reduced to a minimum, and 
lastly, tubers so produced start stronger, and 
make better plants than those grown in pots. A 
highly enriched soil is the great secret of success. 

The Abutilon is another plant of whose 
value and beauty out-of-doors few have any idea. 
To say nothing of the blooms, the size which 


they attain when planted out in good soil, and 
the beauty of the foliage is quite surprising. 

Greenhouse plants. —Nearly all greenhouse 
plants that have done flowering will be greatly 
benefited by being plunged either in the ground 
or in a bed of ashes or Cocoanut-fibre in a slightly 
shaded position for the next three months. Keep 
Cinerarias and Calceolarias pricked off from the 
seed pans as soon as they are large enough to 
handle. The best place for these, for the next 
two months at least, is a frame under a north 
wall or fence. Keep them rather close for about 
a week after being pricked off, then admit a fair 
amount of air. The earliest lot should be potted 
off singly into small 3-inch pots when strong. 
It is now time that seedling Primulas were 
placed in small pots for early winter flowering. 
The same treatment will suit these as well as 
the last named. Balsams should be potted in 
good rich loam and rotten manure, and grown 
on rather quickly, though with abundance of 
light and air, and in a moist genial atmosphere. 
A warmth of about fi0° to 70° suits these best. 

Zonal Geraniums, if required large, should 
be potted on into 7-inch, 8-inch, or even 9-inch 
pots, and the buds kept pricked off, if a fine 
show in August is desired. Those for present 
display should not be shifted,but liberally fed with 
guano water or some such stimulant, to produce 
a fine bloom. These must have abundance of 
air now, and shade from hot sun will give larger 
trusses, and cause them to last longer.—B. C. R. 


Waste in manure. —The chief reason why 
sheds for the protection of manure is advocated, 
is that the rains wash the nutritive constituents 
out of the manure, and thus cause waste, whilst 
the liquid is not at all utilised, but is also 
wasted. On the other hand, manure drawn out 
upon the soil in a fresh state, and spread over its 
surface has all its constituents utilised, ns the 
rain washes the anrmoniacal compounds into the 
soil, and there is no waste. No doubt there is much 
waste when manure lies in heaps exposed to the 
air and ferments, because in the process so much 
of the nutritive properties are liberated and 
absorbed in the atmosphere. That manure in a 
dry state loses little by atmospheric attraction 
is evident from the fact that guano exposed to a 
blazing sun and excessive heat for many years, 
seems to have lost nothing of its vitality when 
employed by us as a stimulant. Nodoubt satura¬ 
tion of manure in water very much 6ooner 
absorbs or removes its constituents than does 
heat, for the sun does but liberate moisture 
whilst it leaves chemical constituents intact. It 
does not, however, by any means follow that it is 
wise to let manure lie about, exposed, or other¬ 
wise, if it can be utilised whilst in a fresh state. 
There are few crops to which it cannot be freely 
applied at any time of the year, either left on 
the surface as a mulch, or else forked in between 
the rows. The chief evils that result to manure 
when kept in bulk are washing from rain, and 
heating; but both are in certain conditions un¬ 
avoidable in large gardens. In small gardens 
the manure difficulty is chiefly not in too much 
but in too little.—D. 

Hot water as an insecticide. —Hot 
water is a clean, safe, and effective means of 
destroying green fly on pot plants. To the 
amateur whose stock of plants might be small, 
or who might not have accommodation for 
fumigating, it would be found a convenient 
remedy. There is a margin of many degrees be¬ 
tween the lowest temperature that will destroy 
this insect, and the highest that a plant will 
stand with impunity. 130 degrees is a good 
medium, or as hot as the hand can be held in 
two seconds. The plant should be plunged 
into and withdrawn from the water instan¬ 
taneously. The smaller body and more delicate 
skin of the insect is more quickly acted upon 
than that of the plant. Should anyone be 
afraid to employ the remedy, let him, if he has 
several plants affected, try it on one first, and 
the next day, when he sees that it has suffered 
no injury, he will have no misgivings about 
treating the rest in the same way.—L. C. K. 


Flowers for sketching.— We shall he 
glad if our reader s, commercial or otherwise, roill 
send us from time to time rpecimem of any good, 
awl useful floorers for figuring. In all oases the 
Ifiowers should he sent with fairly long stalks and 
I rim possible rrith foliage also. 



Juki 30, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


197 




Hardy flowers near the sea. — Mr. 

Mines, rark Street, Lytham, sends us from his 
osrsety a group of well grown hardy flowers, 
which he tells us were cultivated within half a 
mile of the sea. They include Pasonies, Colum- 
Hoes, Forget-me-nots, blooms of the Austrian 
Brier, very sweet and pretty. Early Delphi¬ 
sines, Dianthuses, and a host of other similar 
ittnctive border flowers. 


THE HOP AS A CLIMBER. 

1st Hop, as represented in the accompany- 
icg illustration, makes a capital climber if 
showed to ramble unmolested. For planting in 
woods, pleasure grounds, Ac., it is admirably 
Kited, as the rich vegetable soil generally found 
there, and the shade afforded by the trees, con- 
dsce to the development of ample foliage and 
long twining shoots. The Hop can be raised 
from seed, but is usually 
^creased from sets or 
catlings that are made 
from pieces of the stem 
in the following manner, 

Tin: At this time of 
year each plant or hill is 
earthed up by placing 
a few spadesful of soil 
around the stems, and 
when cut down in the 
autumn this earthed up 
part is left on the plant 
and emits some roots. 

In the following spring 
when the roots are 
dressed, the soil is level¬ 
led down to the old 
crown and these pieces 
of stem cut clean off; 
haring bods and roots 
they are bedded in for 
ne year like Gooseberry 
utd Currant cuttings, 
tnd are fit for plant- 
ng the folio wing winter, 
tnd as cultivated plants 
hey are planted tj feet 
ifart each way, but for 
namental purposes 
hey may be planted in 
y way according to 
he fancy of the cul- 
.rater. We have them 
Luted to cover arches 
canning garden walks 
nth Clematis Jack- 
iai, and they make a 
Tt beautiful effect, 

Lr young foliage of the 
:.p? being now very 
raty, and the rich pur- 
>e casses of the Clema- 
add greatly to the 
feet, and later on the 
Eg wreath of Hops look 
7 pretty. Singleplants 
'di as much as two 
cels of Hops fit for 
ring, but for beautiful 
bet I like to see them 
nning wild over an 
tree mixed with 
ceysuckle, Ivy, Ac. 

one giving the 
? a trial as a dim- 
will say it is not 
y a useful, but a highly ornamental plant, 
is almost sure to give satisfaction.—G. L. 


cannot crawl in the ordinary way, but is obliged 
to lie on its side. 

Bracken-clock (Phyllopeztba horticola).— 
This is a very troublesome insect, both in its larval 
and perfect state ; the eggs are deposited in the 
ground about July, after which they are speedily 
hatched ; the grub grows most rapidly, and in 
appearance is very like that of the cockchafer. 
It feeds most greedily on the roots, but when it 
attains its perfect state, it leaves the ground and 
does much violence to the flowers, among the 
petals of which it may be often found ; nor does it 
confine its ravages to the flowers, for it gnaws 
round holes in the leaves as if made by shot. I 
have tried several so-called remedies, but with 
very little success; the surest way to get rid of 
them is to destroy the grub, which may be done by 
hoeing over the ground pretty often, and carefully 
looking up the grubs and picking them out, then 
dressing the ground with equal parts of gas lime 


The Common Hop a* a Climber. 


ROSES. 

ROSE ENEMIES. 

BY C. BAKER. 

cockchafer. —The cockchafer (Melolon- 
in its perfect state is a terribly 
working sad havoc among 
as those whose Rose 
trees know from ex- 
as its work of spoliation is carried on 
the night, it is consequently the more 
to cope with. I fear all that can be 
with this pest is to endeavour to kill all 
both of the grubs and perfect insects ; 
axe unsightly looking objects, having 
ai of the body curved "" " 

Digitize 


oking objects, having 
I, so Aim t the creature 

Google 


and soot.orammoniacal liquor from the gas-works 
will effectually destroy them, mixed one part to 
ten of water. 

Earwigs (Forficula).—These baneful insects 
are constant in their habits, frequently lodging 
in and out, disturbing the petals of the flowers ; 
they are nocturnal in their visitations and hide 
themselves deep among the petals, and spoil the 
beauty of the bloom in a most vexatious manner 
by nibbling round and destroying the uniformity 
of shape in the petals. They arc very destructive, 
but can easily be destroyed by placing pieces of 
reed or bean stalks where they visit (these are 
chiefly the standard Rose trees). Being intolerant 
of light, they avoid the sunshine by every means 
in their power; yon can blow them out of the 
reeds or bean stalks into a can of hot water, or 
what may be more convenient, a glass bottle 
with a little oil in it. 

Sawfly (Hylotoma rosse).—This is most ap¬ 


propriately named from the peculiar formation 
on its under surface. On close examination by 
a powerful lens, there will be seen a sort of 
double notched ridge extending the whole length 
of the body, which the creature can briog into 
action like a saw, and thereby effect a groove in 
the part on which she rests, and therein deposit 
her egg, after which she moves on and acts in 
the like manner. If the plants are examined in 
autumn,it will be found that the stems and ner- 
vures on the under surface are marked with little 
notches—these are the grooves made by the saw- 
fly—from which young grubs have been hatched. 
Now, as to getting rid of them, I have here 
again often failed, and at the best have met 
with mere partial success. I recommend assidu- 
I ous search and handpicking, though uufortu- 
j nately the mischief is done before we can catch 
the destroyer; these grubs, however, are often 
discovered in the ground, and I therefore 
strongly advise the free 
use of the hoe, and after¬ 
wards a good dressing 
of equal parts of gas 
lime and sulphur. 

The leaf cutter 
BEE (Megachile ccntun- 
cularis).—These insects 
are solitary in their 
visits, and when one has 
selected a plant to its 
liking, it settles on a 
leaf, and with the 
greatest agility cute a 
semi-circular piece out, 
pursuing her work with 
the ntmost mathemati¬ 
cal precision, at the same 
time supporting the 
severed piece, which it 
carries off as soon as it 
is detached, to form a 
lining to its nest. The 
bee invariably visits the 
same plant or one near 
it, and often takes two 
or more scollops off one 
leaflet. Yet I feel in¬ 
clined to forgive these 
little depredators the 
injury they do; but if 
anyone can find heart 
to destroy them, the best 
way is to watch the 
plant or plants they 
visit, and with a piece 
of board in each hand, 
when the bee is busy at 
work put once piece 
under and the ot her over, 
then quickly clap them 
t >gether, so as to secure 
the insect. 

Winter moth (Chei- 
matobia brumata) -This 
is a curious little insect, 
and appears in winter, 
and though small is ca¬ 
pable of doing much mis¬ 
chief; the female has 
no wings, consequently 
cannot fly, but she may 
be seen creeping along 
and seeking the un¬ 
opened buds, and lays her 
eggs upon them and the 
yonng shoots also, and 
when the spring comes and the leaves expand, 
the eggs are hatched, and give forth a number 
of caterpillars, which speedily bnry themselves 
in the bud. The little birds lend us their aid to 
seek ont these troublesome intruders, but, un¬ 
fortunately, I have frequently found that they 
have dragged forth the bud as well as the insect 
with it. 

Swallow-tail moth (Ourapteryx sambu- 
caria).—The caterpillars of these moths are 
called Loopers. When one of these desires to 
advance, it grasps the object firmly with its fore 
feet, and draws the hinder feet close to them, 
forming the body into an arched shape. The 
hind feet then take a firm hold, and the body is 
projected forward nntil the fore feet can repeat 
the process. These caterpillars resemble very 
closely dead twigs, so that they can hardly be 
distinguished from the branches on which they 
cling. They feed on the leaves and flower buds. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



















198 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[June 30, 1883. 


The list of moths classed under the family name 
of Tortricidae, or 

Leaf rollers, supplies many destructive 
agents to the Hose, including the following; 
Tortrix lieparana, Tortrix ribeana, Lozotcenia 
rosana, Pardix tripunctata, and Spilonota robo- 
rana. The grubs of the above make their appear¬ 
ance with the first opening of the leaves, of 
whose structure they take advantage to con¬ 
struct their summer abode, banqueting, in the 
meantime, on the leaves that shelter them, and 
if unmolested, after working havoc among the 
foliage, make for juicy buds, which they soon 
disfigure and render entirely useless. The larva? 
have the peculiarity, when disturbed, of lowering 
themselves with a web-like thread. The only 
remedy for their destruction, and also those of 
the winter moth and swallow-tail moth, is assidu¬ 
ous handpicking. 

Nepticula anomalklla and angulifas- 
Cl ella. —The lame of these moths feed on the 
pulp of Rose leaves, making long galleries and 
blotches under the epidermis, and generally 
making their appearance in July, August, and 
September. The best way to destroy them is 
merely to squeeze the leaves together, or have 
them picked off and burnt. 

Red spider (Acarus tellarius).—These little 
creatures are unquestionably very injurious to 
Roses, either when trained to walls or grown 
under glass. They increase most rapidly, and 
though so minute in size, they have extraor¬ 
dinary powers of extracting the juices from the 
leaves; and to further aggravate the deadly 
mischief thus caused, they spin tiny webs over 
the leaves and points of the young shoots, so as 
to completely clog up the pores of the leaves, 
thereby stopping their powers of transpiration 
and absorption, and giving them a parched or 
burnt appearance. As these little nuisances 
abhor damp, the best remedy is the constant use 
of the syringe. I have found a wash, composed 
of a large wineglassful of petroleum in two 
gallons of soft water, most effectual. Before 
playing on the plants, draw up a syringe full 
and force it back again into the vessel two or 
three times, so as to mix the petroleum as much 
as possible with the water. The wash may be 
used every day, or as long as is found neces¬ 
sary. 

Ants (Formica sanguinea) are occasionally 
very troublesome pests, being very determined I 
and incessant in their attacks, generally eating | 
into the flower buds, and thereby rendering 
them perfectly useless. A little arsenic mixed 
with moist sugar, and placed in their runs, will 
soon destroy them. 

Aphides (Aphis rosje), or, as they are more 
commonly called, green fly or plant lice, I am 
sure need no description. They are, unfortu¬ 
nately, but too well known, especially to the 
Rose grower. They are wonderfully prolific, 
completely smothering, in a few days, the leaves, 
brandies, and buds of the plants they infest. 
The injury they do very soon arrests the growth 
and progress of the plants, and their leaves and 
branches become twisted and distorted by the 
t wisting of the tissues for the extraction of the 
juice, and the plants, if not attended to, become 
at length almost paralysed by the injury thus 
occasioned. The autumnal broods of these in¬ 
sects are egg-layers, and those produced from 
the eggs in the spring are viviparous. Tobacco 
water, Tobacco powder, or, where possible, fumi¬ 
gating them with Tobacco paper, are the most 
certain remedies. Violent syringing with clear 
water will also clean the plants for a short time, 
but those n:it disabled will quickly return to 
their feast. They are killed with the slightest 
pressure, so that you have only to draw your 
lingers over the infested parts, and destroy 
thousands at onco. On the leaves and stems of 
trees much infested with aphides may be ob¬ 
served a glutinous substance that adheres to the 
fingers and is sweet to the taste. This substance 
is properly called honey-dew, and is secreted 
from the aphides. Bees and ants are very 
fond of this honey-dew, and the ants may 
be seen feeding on the saccharine secretion as 
it exudes from the insect. Thousands of ants 
may be seen traversing the trees on which 
aphides are plentiful. Some are of opinion that 
ants do not feed on the Rose, but follow after 
the aphides ; however this may be, I have no 
doubt many rosarians, like myself, have found 
swarms of the black ants on the top of Rose 
buds, busily at w&rk ; and cqrtldn^y where this 


is the case, however you may fairly dislodge 
them for the time, you will find the little creatures 
return again boldly to their work, and assuredly 
where they have visited the bud, it never is seen 
to open its blossom in its known natural form 
and beauty. Yet I have been anxious to forgive 
these little busy workers the mischief they have 
created wdien watching the marvellous power 
possessed by ants, and how they make known to 
their comrades any store of food they have dis¬ 
covered. 

Mildew. —We should be careful, by every 
possible means, to guard against producing any 
check to the plants, either by watering the roots 
or overhead with cold water daring very hot 
weather, and thereby rendering them susceptible 
to fungoid attacks. In preference to watering 
at such a time I would advise a good mulching, 
or a constant moving of the surface soil, to 
prevent radiation. I can strongly recommend 
the following wash : Boil one pound of soft soap 
in two gallons of water—syringe the plants 
daily with balf-a-pint of this mixture put in 
two gallons of rain water, and dust the affected 
parts with sublimated sulphur when wet from 
syringing. I have also used, with much good 
effect, an insecticide called Fir-tree oil, sold by 
most nurserymen—half-a-pint to four quarts of 
water. It is rather an expensive preparation, 
but I have used it through a very neat little 
instrument that has, within the last few months, 
been brought out by Mr. Wells, of Earlswood 
Nurseries, at lteigate, called Wells’s Improved 
Spray Diffuser. It is worked with great facility, 
and can be directed to any part of the affected 
plant. It is a great saving, as a small bottle 
will do as much good as two gallons of insecti¬ 
cide with the ordinary syringe; or a wash 
consisting of soft soap dissolved in boiling 
water, and then add sulphur and Tobacco, stir¬ 
ring the mixture well together when using. 

Orange fungus.—T here is, however, no 
disease to which the Rose is liable that is so 
destructive in its effects as a virulent attack of 
Orange fungus. It is most subtle in its action ; 
attacking the foliage sometimes in an early 
state of its growth, and spreading rapidly over a 
collection of plants, it makes its appearance on 
the under side of the leaves, in the form of the 
heads of very small pins. These, however, 
rapidly increase in number, until the leaves look 
as though they had been dusted with cayenne 
pepper, and their vitality is quickly consumed 
through its effects. By its ravages the plants 
are denuded of foliage long before the wood has 
time to ripen, consequently they are in a very 
delicate state to stand against hard winter 
weather, and those that have that ordeal to 
undergo, invariably start weakly the following 
spring. The remedies I can speak of are, 
unfortunately, not very successful; and though 
I have but faint hopes of being able to effectually 
cure this pernicious disease, the next best thing 
is to endeavour to check its vegetative power of 
spreading growth, and prevent its reappearance. 
This can be attempted by raking off all loose 
materials and as much of the soil as possible, 
and burning them. At the same time, give the 
ground a good dressing of quicklime. The burnt 
soil and other matters can be returned to the 
Roses, greatly improved by the 'change they have 
undergone. At pruning time, carefully collect 
everything cut from the plants and destroy it. 
Then give the plants—stems and branches, 
stakes and ties (if any)—a good coating of the 
following mixture, applied with a suitable 
brush : Quicklime and soot, mixed to the con¬ 
sistency of paint, in a pailful of which add half- 
a-pound of sublimated sulphur and a small 
handful of coarse salt; stir and mix well together 
before applying, the object being to destroy 
the resting spores of this troublesome fungus. 
I have tried washes of all kinds, carefully 
syringing and brushing over the leaves with 
various compounds, but with little success, and 
in some instances finding the remedies even 
more fatal than the disease. I have most faith 
in an infusion of Hellebore root, four ounces to 
half-a-gallon of boiling water, then add half-a- 
drachm of the bichloride of mercury (first 
dissolve the mercury in a little spirit), and lastly, 
add half-a-gallon of lime water. I have 
certainly seen good results from this application, 
though I must also admit it has sometimes 
failed. I have observed we get this Orange 
fungus, or mildew, in long continued dry 
weather, and chiefly on the lower leaves of the 
smooth-wooded class of Rose plants, such as 


Victor Verdier, Comtesse d'Oxford, Hippolyte 
Jarnain, and the like; but it is worthy of remark 
that neither Madame Clemence Joigneaux, 
William Warden, or Edouard Morren, and those 
of the same character of foliage, &c., are seldom 
subject to these forms of fungoid disease. 

Black fungus.— This appears on the leaves 
in blotches. The edges are irregular or star¬ 
shaped. It most commonly makes its appearance 
in poor and exhausted soils, or after a long con¬ 
tinued drought, causing an insufficient supply of 
nourishment to the plant. Though these are the 
causes, it is most undoubtedly contagious after 
it has obtained a footing. As a remedy, syringe 
with a solution of soft soap, G ounces dissolved 
in a gallon of water, adding 2 ounces of sulphur, 
mix well together; or nicotine soap, *1 ounces to 
a gallon of water ; or sponge the leaves with the 
following wash : 2 ounces of sulphate of cop per 
dissolved in hot water, and then add 2 gallons of 
cold, soft water. 

Root fungus.— This frequently attacks the 
Rose; it is brought about by the soil in which 
they are planted containing matter favourable to 
fungoid growth, such as dead wood, leaf-mould, 
&;c., hence the necessity of removing all such 
substances; stumps also of rotten stakes should 
be carefully taken from the ground. I know some 
regard with suspicion the Manctti stock ; their 
opinion is that Roses on this stock being planted 
somewhat below the union, so as to induce this 
stock to swell, and with the view of the Roses 
becoming established on their owd roots, the 
stock then dies and becomes a suitable breeding 
repository for this fungus, the mycelium of which 
permeate the dead tissues, and instead of beiDg 
the medium of giving existence or maintaining 
vigour of life in the Rose, it becomes the means 
of imparting its death-blow. I mention the 
matter, though I do not share the opinion. The 
best chance of remedy is to lift the plant and 
remove all decayed portions of the root, then 
thoroughly wet the roots, and dost with quick¬ 
lime, and plant in fresh soil. 

Curl. —This generally occurs when the Roses 
hare been occupying the ground for a very long 
period of time, consequently the constituents 
of the soil necessary to their well doing becomes 
exhausted, and they are thereby rendered very 
susceptible to climatic changes. Under these 
circumstances I advise that the plants be lifted 
and replanted in improved soil. 

Canker. —This disease is, as a rule, confmee 1 
to that most glorious Rose, Mar6chal Niel, anc 
arises from the plant’s weakness and inability tc 
take up and make use of sufficient nourishmen 
to sustain its growth and prolific blooming. A 
a remedy, I suggest the removal, if possible, o 
the affected parts, and enrich the soil both b 
solid and liquid manure. 

Lichen and Moss sometimes form on th 
stems of standards and dwarf standards, and i 
allowed to accumulate, are decidedly injurious t 
the well-beiDg of the Rose, stopping the pores c 
the epidermis of the stem and young branched 
besides forming suitable niches for all kinds c 
insect eggs and spores of fungi. The wint< 
dressing I have mentioned above for Orang 
fungus will also remove and prevent this cam 
of disease. H 

Abridged from “ liomrians Year-book.”' 


FRUIT. 

RIPENING TEACHES. 

In the culture of Peaches, whether indoors 
outdoors, it is of the utmost importance to ma! 
the very most of sunshine and light on t 
fruit. Numbers of fruit gathered are paler at 
sourer than they ought to be, from being insul 
ciently exposed to the light while growing 
the tree. On trellised trained trees under gl$ 
they are apt to suffer from shade; against a w; 
they are not so badly off, but there is no reas 
why they should not be exposed fully to t 
sunshine in both cases more than they are. 
is a mistake to suppose that it Is time enot 
to put the leaves aside when the fruit begins 
ripen ; it should be exposed from the very beg 
ning, or at the latest from the time whet 
begins to stone. It needs the light to enabl 
to perform its functions just as much as 
leaves do, and the exposed fruit is always 
largest and best, as well as the beat look: 
First, it should be on the upper aide of 
branches, and next the shoots should be 



Jdks 30, 1883,]'J 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


199 


is liliaiy, and the foliage should be picked oif 
mtrevar it overlies the fruit. Merely pushing 
it to one side will not do when a syringe has 
to be used. You may complete the ripening 
of i teach off the tree, but you cannot colour 
ii,«xi colour means high flavour and sweetness. 

We have just finished a heavy crop from a 
iioyai George tree, and one could not help re- 
nsrkiisg the superiority of the quality of those 
fnits which had been most exposed to the sun, 
ttae fully exposed being rosy crimson all over, 
while in others theinterventionof a singleleaf left 
is mark in the paler skin on the covered spot. The 
tae was gone over at an early stage and all 
loves clipped off round each fruit where it did 
no: seriously interfere with the buds for next 
ytsr.and there is not much danger of that. Out¬ 
doors in our dull climate the importance of full 
erpcsure can hardly be sufficiently realised. The 
shade of the foliage makes many degrees diffe¬ 
rence to the temperature, and early and perfect 
maturation is entirely a question of the accumu¬ 
lated heat of the summer. 

Cultivators should now go over the trees on 
walls, select all the finest fruit, and either press 
the foliage aside from off it, or remove it alto¬ 
gether, only see that it is kept off. Tying in the 
shoots in time is another matter that should be 
attended to for the same reasons, and in order 
ro ripen the wood. The shoots on outdoor trees 
always grow rankest when not tied, and as raDk 
■ihoots are not wanted on Teaches, and are always 
difficult to ripen, the sooner they are tied to 
the wall the better. The fear of thinning the 
shoots out too much is the great bugbear of in- 
rspetienced cultivators, but leaving plenty of 
-hoots is not of so much importance as leaving 
hen in the right place. Take care to do that 
o as to provide well furnished branches in all 
arts, but do not hesitate to remove a shoot 
whenever it interferes too much with its next 
neighbour. A very thin sprinkling of young 
vood will produce flowers enough to guarantee 
■lenty of fruit, and the thinner the shoots are 
he better ripened they will be, and the more 
certain the crop. S. W. 


Layering Strawberries— This is an 

perahon in which an early start is of importance. 
|fae sooner the runners are in their pots the 
crater is the chance of getting good fruitful 
tarts. To attempt early forcing with late 
[nOed plants is to court failure. I would, there- 
cre, recommend all who contemplate forcing 
: uuwt>erries in pots to lose no time in getting 
he earliest runners they can get of the desired 
oak layered in small pots, so that they may be 
r tor getting into their frniting pots by the 
[ni£e of J uly. After trying all kinds of plans 
am convinced that layering in 3-inch pots 
Ld with good rich soil answers best. We use 
si cut about -1 inches thick and stacked up 
enough to kill the Gross roots, with a thin 
ijer of manure between each layer of turf, 
ian this is chopped down it is ready for use; 
will, however, require chopping rather finer 
a the small pots than for the fruiting pota, but 
» -seer sift soil for Strawberrries; plaoe one 
•vek or potsherd at the bottom and fill up with 
then carry the pots to the beds where the 
yers are to be had, and place one in the centre 
each pot, securing it with a wooden peg or a 
u f’.ooe. The stone is preferred by many, as it 
-talas moisture under it, and hastens the pro- 
ttion of roots. Keep the layers well watered, 
d in a fortnight or three weeks they will be 
1 rooted and fit for severing from the parent 
ants. Place them in a shady situation till 
rcired for potting.—L. 

Watering' "Vines. — Nothing gives more 
'mediate assistance to Vines swelling off a 
-p of fruit than a thorough soaking with 
-inure water. Liquid manure may be made of 
fvrent materials, such as guano, sheep drop- 
ngs cow manure, Ac. The latter I prefer, and 
• iv» use it when it can be had in sufficient 
njttiiy. Vines should receive a thorough water- 
si a short time before it is contemplated to start 
■ra into growth ; this induces a stronger break 
ts would otherwise be the case, and carries 
.tea era to within a short time before they come 
& Sower, when they should receive another 
which wiU carry them on again till 
fer they have set their fruit, when another 
ff ication may be given. The next time to water 
or two before the Grapes begin to colour, 
*^4is ought to be the lastwatering while 


fruit is on them, as after that watering would 
tend to make the berries crack, and the border 
being allowed to get a little dry will be an advan¬ 
tage as regards ripening the wood as well as to 
the keeping of the fruit. After the fruit is cut, 
and by the time the wood should be thoroughly 
ripe, if the border should have become very dry 
give another watering, but this time clean water 
should only be used, as manure water would have 
a tendency to keep growth in operation at a 
time when it is desirable Vines should go 
to rest. This watering is necessary, as roots keep 
fresher in winter in a moist soil if tho drainage 
is good than in a dry soil. The quantity given 
at each of these waterings will depend on 
circumstances. The best rule to go by is to 
give as much as will moisten the soil from 
top to bottom of the border, and if the drainage 
is good there need be no fear of giving too much ; 
it is better to give plenty than to under water. Tn 
these remarks I am referring entirely to inside 
borders. The watering of outside borders is alto¬ 
gether another matter; but these also should at 
least have two waterings with manure water in 
the course of the season, the times at which to 
give them depending wholly on tho state of the 
weather.—A. M. 

Thinning Apples. —The Apple crop is this 
season likely to be a very heavy one, and I 
would strongly advise those who have dwarf 
trained trees, such as espaliers, cordons, or 
bushes, to lose no time in pruning and thinning 
the shoots, and also the fruit. I am well aware 
that in the case of large orchard trees the plan 
is not likely to be carried out, for the simple 
reason that in plentiful years the price of Apples 
sinks so low as not to pay for the labour, and all 
these things are ruled by the commercial aspect 
of the case. But with those who have only a 
few trees the case is quite different, and the 
thinning of the crop is a pleasant pastime and 
one that if: amply repaid by the increased size 
of those left; and above all, the growth of wood 
and fruit buds for the current year being able to 
properly mature, and thereby lay the foundation 
of next season's crop. We hear frequently of 
trees and varieties that bear crops of fruit every 
alternate year, but this is occasioned by the 
trees being too heavily taxed one year to bear 
the next, and consequently they take a season’s 
rest to recruit their energies. This is especially 
tha case with varieties that set their fruit in 
large hunches, and I would strongly advise any¬ 
one having such, to thin them out freely at once. 
If the trees are infested with any kind of inseot 
pests, a good drenching from the garden engine 
will dislodge all the small imperfectly set fruit, 
and reduce the necessity for much hand picking. 
—J ames Groom, Gosport. 

Penyer’B Victoria Plum. — Although 

Plums gave promise of a very abundant crop, 
they will generally be a very scanty one, for in 
many places I have noticed that, except on the 
Victorias, there is hardly a frnit left, but, as a 
rule, this sort is fairly well cropped. It Is very 
singular how this variety bears fruit year after 
year when others fail, and owners of small gar¬ 
dens should make a note of this sort for plant¬ 
ing next autumn, f&r it is not only a most 
fruitful sort, but the fruit is large and excellent 
either for culinary use or for dessert, being of a 
lovely pink colour when ripe, very juicy and 
thick-fleshed, with a very thin stone. It makes 
excellent preserves, and in seasons when I’lums 
are plentiful is largely used by the manufac¬ 
turers of cheap jams, as in the fruit orchards of 
Kent it bears such heavy crops as to necessitate 
the branches being propped np to keep them 
from breaking. It is as a wall tree that I would 
especially recommend the Victoria to amateurs 
who year after year look for fruit on their 
Peaches, choice Pears, Ac., but are too frequently 
disappointed; far better grow a frnit such as 
the above, or a Morello Cherry, for they seldom 
fail to reward the cultivator. Try them trained 
as fan-shaped trees, keeping the wood evenly 
and thinly distributed over the face of the wali, 
so that both frnit and wood may ripen 
thoroughly, and there will be little fear 
of lack of fruit on any aspect of wall.— James 
Groom, Gosport. 

Best Apricots.— Notwithstanding the fact 
that the Moorpark Apricot is so liable to lose its 
largest branches without any apparent cause, it 
is, in my opinion, still the best Apricot to grow. 
The tree is a good bearer, and the fruit is 
larger and better flavoured than that of any 


other kind. In many cases Apricots are pruned 
too much; for many years I followed the close 
pruning system, and obtained results in no 
way satisfactory. Since then I have adopted a 
more free-and-easy system, and have done what 
little pruning was necessary in summer by 
tying in the breastwood and pinching off the 
tops of the strongest shoots once in the month 
of June, and our crops have become greatly im¬ 
proved. Such a system will not, however, do in 
gardens where severe pruning and stiff training 
are carried out. But I am satisfied that where a 
good crop of fruit is of more importance than a 
neatly trained tree the free-and-easy system is 
the most profitable. In winter, instead of cut¬ 
ting off all the breastwood, we cut out some 
of the old, exhausted shoots, and tie in the 
young ones instead of cutting them back to a 
spur. By thus tying in the young shoots they 
shelter each other, and better crops are the 
result. Our trees of the Moorpark variety 
suffered so much from the loss of large branches 
that I determined eight years ago to try other 
varieties, and secured Rivers’s Early, the Royal, 
and Musch-Musch. Rivers’s Early I discarded 
the second year after fruiting, as the skin was 
so thick, and the stone so large, that it was 
considered to be valueless; it is only right, 
however, to say that the tree was a good grower, 
and produced fruit in abundance. The Royal 
has a good many if not all the characteristics of 
the preceding, except that the tree is less vigo¬ 
rous, the fruit somewhat larger, and its branches 
do not die off so suddenly after the tree attains 
a good size. It is somewhat tender, and only 
suitable for very warm positions. Under glass 
I have seen this variety better than any other 
kind, i.e., if I except the airy lean-to houses at 
Sawbridgeworth, where Apricots of ail kinds 
used to be grown so well in pots. The tree of 
the Musch-Musch kind is quite distinct from 
that of the Moorpark, and with me it is a very 
prolific bearer. It is a good grower, but the fruit 
is small, and has a thick skin and indifferent 
flavour. It is not so likely, I apprehend, to lose 
its main branches suddenly as the Moorpark, 
and where a hardy variety is required in positions 
where others have failed, this should, I think, 
have a fair trial.—J. C. C. 

Strawberries in pots.— Young plants 
intended for early forcing should be placed in 
their fruiting pots by the end of June or early 
in July. Pots 5 inches to 6 inches in diameter 
are quite large enough for the first batch, but for 
the general stock a larger size may be used with 
advantage, if only to economise time in watering. 
See that the fruiting pots are clean, dry, and well 
crocked, for, much as the Strawberry enjoys a 
strong, rich soil, with plenty of moisture, it soon 
becomes unhealthy in a pot from whioh water 
cannot pass away freely. Pot the plants singly, 
with the crowns well up above the soil when all is 
finished, and place them on a hard surface in a 
fight, airy situation convenient to water, and, if 
possible, free from worms. Avoid crowding the 
plants together or setting them near trees, as it 
is important that the leaf-stalks be kept short 
and stout, and that good single crowns in pre¬ 
ference to double ones be thoroughly ripened 
before the autumn. Water well with water 
which has been exposed to the atmosphere, and 
keep the beds of concrete or ashes on which they 
are placed well moistened, but avoid wetting 
the tender foliage in bright weather or at any 
time with water that is colder than the mean 
temperature of the air. Remove all weeds and 
runners. Apply lime water if worms gain a 
lodgment, and rearrange occasionally, as they 
require more room, and to prevent the plants 
from rooting into the ground. With many 
growers it is the practice to avoid the use of 
small pots altogether by filling the fruiting pots 
up to within three-quarters of an inch of the 
rim, and then pegging the runners tightly down 
on the surface. The drawback to this excellent 
plan is the establishment of a colony of worms 
during the time the pots are standing on the 
quarters, and the time occupied in watering in 
dry weather. The plants, however, make excel¬ 
lent heart buds, which ripen well, and the check 
which follows shifting from 3-inch pots to fruit¬ 
ing pots is overcome.—W. C. 

9833.— Slugs eating Strawberries.—I 
take one pint of paraffin oil and put it in an old 
pitcher, and then add from one to two quarts of 
water ; 
tailors’ 


then 1 get some shreds or cloth, say 
cut t ings—any old waste rag would do, but 



200 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[June 30, 1883. 


I choose these because they are more the colour 
of the soil and do not look so bad lying about, 
and they are more open and thicker, and hold 
more of the liquor than thin rag. I take as 
many pieces as 1 want, and put them into the 
lotion to soak, then take them out one by one 
and peg them round the plants I wish to protect, 
and by doing so I find I am a perfect master 
for the reptile. I have for some time past grown 
a great many Dahlias, and some years have lost 
a large number, but since I have tried the above 
scheme I have never lost one. I only dress twice 
in the whole season, which I find quite sufficient. 
I apply it to my Strawberries, Cabbages, Let¬ 
tuces, or any other plant that the snail is partial 
to, and I find it answer very well indeed. The 
plants may be watered freely, and by doing so 
you not only add to the nourishment of your 
plant, but also cause a fresh stench to arise from 
the paraffin which is soaked in the cloth, and I 
suppose it is the stench that keeps the enemy 
away. Ashes from the blacksmith's hearth are 
also very good to put round plants, as it is very 
difficult for slugs to travel over them.— 
A. W. J. _ 

INDOOR PLANTS. 

Tuberous Begonias. —As a large grower 
of tuberous Begonias, and invariable prize taker, 
I may claim to speak with some authority re¬ 
specting them. I cannot agree with “ J. M.” or 
the writer of the article on doubles. “J. M.” 
asks why Begonias for bedding should not be 
started early. I say that the naturally started 
tubers catch the forced ones, and in nearly every 
case pass them. While the naturally started ones 
are of good bushy habit, the forced ones are long 
and lanky, and drop their blooms. Such, at 
least, has been my experience for six years. My 
only fault with the writer on doubles is part of 
his selection. Queen of the Doubles is a good 
blossom, but too straggling a grower ; William 
Bealby and Dr. Duke have been long surpassed ; 
Blanche Jeanpierre is apt to come only semi¬ 
double, and is not white; Fulgurant, Madame 
Comesse and Choiseul are good; Davisi 11.-pi. 
superba is too dwarf; Clovis is a shy flowerer; 
Dinah Felix, nearly as straggly as fuchsioides; 
Esther's bloom is very irregular, though the 
plant is good. Some of the others are fair, but 
he does not mention many better, Buch as M. 
Drouet, Eugene Lequin, Madame de Dumart, 
Gloire de Nancy. If I were called upon to make 
a selection (not including the beauties published 
in Laing's plates of novelties), I should mention 
as a good selection of doubles the following: 
Comte8se de Choiseul, Eugene Lequin, Fulgurant, 
Gloire de Nancy, Glory of Stanstead, Lady Anna, 
Madame Comesse, Madame de Dumart, Marie 
Bouchet, Pasoniaeflora, President Burella, L£on 
Gambetta. My selection of novelties is, singles: 
Black Douglas, Iloscawen, McFarlane, Lady 
Brooke, Marquis of Bute, Snowflake. Doubles : 
Antoinette Querin, Canary Bird, Clarinda, 
Beaconsfield, Little Gem, Mrs. McFarlane, and 
Robin Adair. 

9882 — Scarlet Honeysuckles.— This, 
like all the family, is a strong grower if it has 
ample root room and good soil. To induce it to 
cover a wall rapidly, plants now in small pots 
should be planted in a well prepared border in¬ 
side the greenhouse, or else be in large pots, but 
the soil must be good and ample. The plants 
are also such gross feeders that they need an 
abundance of water, and will be all the better, 
as they get strong and full of roots, if they have 
the assistance occasionally of some manure water. 
The plants are wonderfully lloriferous. The 
habit of growth is to throw up a strong shoot, 
and a bunch of flowers will come at its extremity. 
Then the buds on either side will break and 
throw more flowers, and so the growth continues. 
The shoots need oft nailing or tying; but the 
side flowering shoots may hang free from the 
wall. Training is simply a matter of good 
growth, and of supporting each strong shoot in 
such a way as that the wall shall be covered as 
soon as possible. This Honeysuckle makes a 
fine pillar plant for the summer in the open air 
if the plants are in big pots and can be put in 
the greenhouse in the winter.—A. D. 


Mulohing or top-dresBing.—This is a 
most important part of vegetable and fruit cul¬ 
ture at this season of the year, when the sun’s 
rays are powe^I7*and^the effects <^f a few days’ 


drying wind and sun combined are soon visible, 
more especially on light, gravelly, or thin soils 
resting on gravel, chalk, or other natural drain¬ 
age. The best way I have found of minimising 
the effects of drought, is to mulch or top-dress 
the soil with some kind of manurial substance. 
For instance, Peas, Beans, and similar plants 
grown in straight lines may have a mulching 
about one foot wide on each side of the row. 
If manure of any kind is available as a mulch¬ 
ing, and a good soaking of water can be applied 
afterwards, the liquid food will be carried down 
to the roots, and the mulching will prevent 
evaporation to such an extent that one good 
soaking of water with it will have more lasting 
effect than three times the amount applied on 
bare soil. It is not always possible to get 
manure for the desired purpose, but very much 
may be done by utilising non-manurial sub¬ 
stances, in fact, anything that will shade the 
soil and minimise evaporation should be made 
use of; the trimmings orpruningsof trees, short 
grass from lawns, or even weeds, before they get 
seedy, may be turned to account; there should 
be no waste in gardens, for everything that 
grows in a garden will, when decayed, form 
food for succeeding crops.—J. Groom, Gosjiort. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


PLANTING EVERGREENS IN SUMMED. 

I am not aware that anything new can be Baidin 
favour of planting evergreen trees and shrubs 
during the summer months, but as it is a subject 
that interests a good many, it may be useful to 
say that the time of year has arrived when that 
kind of work should be done, if it is to be done 
at all. The questions bearing on this matter are 
two—the probable results as compared with 
spring planting, and the effect that a hard win¬ 
ter has on newly planted subjects. As regards 
the first, I have no hesitation in saying that the 
best results will be obtained from summer plant¬ 
ing in all cases where the plants to be moved 
exceed 6 feet in height, provided they have only 
to be moved from one part of the grounds to 
another, but in the case of large plants that have 
to be brought long distances by railway I should 
prefer to wait until the middle of September. 

When practicable, I prefer to prepare all the 
plants to be moved if they have stood in the 
same position more than four years, and if they 
exceed a height of 6 feet. The preparation should 
be made in the previous October, and should 
consist in digging a trench round the stem of the 
tree two feet deep and one foot wide. The dis¬ 
tance that this trench must be from the tree will 
depend on its age and size ; for a tree or ever¬ 
green shrub 8 feet high, the inner side of the 
trench should be two feet from the stem all round, 
and the width should be in proportion to the 
height. In digging out the trench all roots met 
with should be cut clean asunder; the trench may 
then be filled in again'and left in that state. It will 
be found when the time arrives for removing the 
tree thus operated on that every root cut asunder 
has broken out into a nest of fibres, and it is 
considered that these fibres are of far greater 
benefit to the tree after removal than the single 
root would have been if left undisturbed until 
the time of lifting. Experience proves this, for 
in practice I find that all trees or shrubs pre¬ 
pared in the way just described suffer much less 
than those not so treated; in fact, the percen¬ 
tage of living trees thus managed is far in excess 
of that of the other. 

The question as to the effect that a hard winter 
has on newly-planted trees is one that demands 
the serious attention of intending planters. It 
must be taken for granted, I think, that a shrnb 
or tree only recently removed is not in so good 
a condition to withstand the severity of a long 
winter as one that had not been disturbed. In 
my own experience I have had trees removed 
during the late summer months that, have stood 
to all appearance sound and healthy up to the 
time when severe frost has set in, then become 
brown in the foliage, and ultimately die. This, 
however, to my mind does not to any serious 
extent injure the cause of summer planting, be¬ 
cause it is only in the severest winters that 
trees thus suffer. On the contrary, it cannot be 
too well known that there is a decided gain by 
adopting summer planting. If a tree is moved 
towards the end of July, it will in a great mea¬ 
sure have completed its growth for the year; 
and if moved as soon as it has done that, it will 


get, other conditions being favourable, pretty 
well re-established before growth commences 
next season, and under ordinary circumstances 
it may be expected to make a fairly good growth 
the first year after removal; but in the case of 
autumn or spring planting it generally takes 
the whole of the next season to recover, and 
makes little or no growth. There is just one 
particular time in the summer eminently favour¬ 
able to removal—I mean that period of the 
tree's first summer growth when it comes to a 
standstill. Many trees make two growths in a 
year, and the best time to move them is in the 
interval between the first and second growth. A 
little observation will enable anyone to detect 
when that time occurs, but as the habit of dif¬ 
ferent trees varies, the selection of the time for 
removal may extend over three or four weeks, 
according to the character of the subjects to be 
operated upon. J. C. C. 


9894.— Holly hedges. —In planting a hedge 1 
of Hollies the distance apart of the plants must 
to some extent be ruled by their size at the time 
of planting, but a good size to begin with is from 
24 inches to 30 inches in height, the plants from 
the nursery having been kept oft transplanted, 
so that they may go in with good balls of roots 2 
and soil; when so planted they are almost certain a 
to live. On the other hand, there are no worse 
things to transplant than Hollies when they are 
taken from a bed where they have been i 
growing several years. The wisest plan is not to - 
plant too thickly, but give ample room, say 2 feet .. 
from plant to plant, and to put between each a a 
stout Quickset or White Thorn, as the two inter¬ 
mix, and in time binding or interweaving to¬ 
gether make a capital hedge. The best times for 
planting are October and April, but the former 
gives the plants the best chance. The soil where 
the hedge is to be formed should be trenched 
quite 2 feet in depth, should be thoroughly 
cleaned, and be assisted by adding some manure; 
rapid growth is thus stimulated.—D. 


Weeds on walks. —Some dislike using 1 
salt to destroy weeds on walks; they think it 
acts as a manure, and that it increases rather 
than diminishes the weeds, but I do not find it < 
to do so. I have employed salt lor years on 
long lengths of walks, and have found it to not 
only effectually kill the weeds, but to give the 
gravel a bright, clean face, unobtainable in any ■ 
other way. The great secret lies in putting it " 
on in fine weather. When the barometer indi- 3 
cates a period of dry weather, that is the time to 
salt; there is then a prospect of its lying on the 
surface and dissolving gradually, and that is - 
when it will do the most good. Thus applied, 
the result will be safe and sure, and the expense 
small compared with that of hand weeding.— 
J. C. C. _ 

ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 

(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

9823.—Grubs.—From the fact that three 
queries respecting grubs appear in the same 
number, it is evident that these garden pests are 
numerous in many gardens, and are doing much 
mischief amongst flowers. These grubs are 
invariably the larva: of bettles, chafers, or similar 
insects, and like them seem to possess hardness 
of coat, and are impervious to those remedies 
which so soon affect slugs and soft-coated 
creatures. No douht many of these pests are the; 
product of foul manure, and would also be found 
in newly broken pasture,or in gardens that have 
been grossly neglected. Dressing of any kind 
that would destroy them would also destroy 
vegetable life, and we have not in gardens that 
help to destroy grubs that are found in fields in 
rooks, crows, starlings, and other hard-billed 
birds, as these rarely frequent gardens. Black¬ 
birds and thrushes also when they have young 
will be most industrious in finding out these 
grubs, but they frequent only those gardens 
where there is cover and they are encouraged 
Really there seems no better remedy than is tha 
found in hunting for these grubs and killint 
them. It is well also to destroy all bettles anc 
chafers flying about, and also the larger moths 
as these deposit eggs that in time produce grub 
and caterpillars. Persistent hunting and killini 
the grubs, good cultivation, change of kinds o 
plants, and ample perseverance will in time rit 
the garden of many of its enemies,— A. D. 



Jrai 30, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


201 


9892.— Aphides. — 11 M. U.,” who asks what 
shall be done with the points of shoots infested 
with aphis, forgets to tell what his bushes were, 
tat. assuming them to be Roses, we should not 
ithise the cutting off the points, as to do so 
vouM be to destroy prospective flowers; far 
better to make a solution of Tobacco, using half 
i pound of that article to a quart of hot water, 
and allowing it to stand for a couple of hours 
lefore it is used. Then put some of the Tobacco 
nler in a soup plate, and, going round the Rose 
bushes, dip the points of the shoots infested with 
aphis into the solution; keep them immersed for 
a minute or so ; that will suffice to kill the fly, 
and prevent others from attaching themselves to 
the shoots for sometime. A solution of Quassia 
chips, at the rate of quarter-pound to half 
a gallon of water, also makes a very effective 
insecticide. D. 

9895.— Protecting Auriculas. — If the 
Auriculas are in pots it is essential that they 
should have protection of some kind during the 
(sinter, and none is better than a covering of 
glass. Better than nothing, however, is a pro¬ 
tection made of stout oiled calico fastened on 
to a framework in some way, and kept on during 
heavy rains or in frosty weather. Plants growing 
in beds in the open ground hardly need protec¬ 
tion, as the kinds that are hardy enougli to 
stand the summer heat in the open will usually 
stand the winter well. If it is desired to grow 
Auriculas in pots well, a frame with glass 
covering is indispensable.—D. 


Tea Boses.— F. K .—Get some good turf from a 
pasture or even good stiff loam from a ploughed field or 
garden, and add to your light soil, also adding plenty of 
rotten manure. Plant in autumn or spring. We should 
try Gledre de Dijon, Marechal Niel Is rather tender. 

E. L. IT.—The Pansies are pretty, but not worth pro¬ 
pagating. Better can be got from a packet of good 
seed.— fF. M .—Hot at all uncommon in the Apple. 


QUERIES. 


Rulee for Correspondents.— AU communica¬ 
tions for insertion should, be clearly and concisely written 
<a cue side of the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
and address of the sender is required, in addition to any 
□om de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the query 
irjwred. When more than one query is sent each should 
bee* a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of 
&HDOTHO going to press a considerable time before the 
tag qf publication, it is not possible to insert queries and 
w. Biunieatiom the week they are received. Queries not 
tntrsered should be sent to us again. 

>'<n. — Petunias and Geraniums fading. — 
What is the reason of Geranium hlooms and Petunia 
.fcoa» suddenly fading ? The Geraniums by turning a 
idep red, and refusing to open the pips, and the Petunias 
jt suddenly hanging the flowers when they seem at their 
ied. Every pip of the Geraniums open half way and 
Ira wither and die off. Is it from the damp arising 
'r» the cemented floor under the stage, or from air, 
met, shade, or what ? The greenhouse faces west, gets 
at 11 o’clock, is well attended to, and yet no 
fever hna ever given satisfaction except Fuchsias. 
?'«T 2 s do exceedingly well, but everything else seems to go 
We have tried Camellias and Azaleas, but failed.— 
-TXJOC3 IliqciRER. 

*15.—F*rult and flowers for garden.—I have a 
rxrdcn 2 roods and 10 perches in extent, almost square, 
memded by high walls, and soil in greater part very 
zth, and about 10 feet deep. In a narrow vein it is only 
2 feet, with a subsoil of fox-sand. I keep a man 
here always who understands the growing of common 
’tgetebks. I can only spend one day every week in it, 
sad am very fond of flowers and fruit, but unfortunately, 
■ I have bad this garden only aince last November, I know 
try little of practical gardening,and depend mostly on the 
a mstton I get in Gardening, which I get ana study 
were week. What fruits and flowers are likely to sue- 
awI beat with me ?—Fraqola. 
witL—Making a Vine border.—I have just had 

• ^etnhouae built, and am anxious to make up a border 
i which to plant Vines in the autumn. Will some 
rider kindly advise me as to what compost I ought to 
ue, and also as to the best method of draining. The 
abaci! is yellow clay mixed with sand, and there is a 
fnd fall for the water. I have a heap of stones. Could 

be utilised for drainage ? I should be glad also to 
£*>■* n-fcat depth the border ought to be.—ENquiRKR. 

Jvir. —Veg-etable Marrows and Cucumbers. 
-I choold be glad to know whether I must pinch the 
el my Vegetable Marrows and Cucumbers which are 
r.-whsg in the open air, and have now four rough leaves 
i Also, how I can distinguish the fruit flowtrs from 
■e --thers, and whether I shall have to fertilise them or 

• ? I have never grown any before, but am told they 
- ztow freely In the open air at Bournemouth.— 

• L A. 

*18. — Brown Watercresses. — Having a small 
-sa running through my grounds, I thought I might 
tibz it for growing Watercress. Accordingly, I started 
na to work to make it fit for the purpose. As I prefer 
« Town to tbe green Cress, I went to a seedsman and 
^ei for the same (brown Cress), but was told that only 
5*rt existed, and that it depended on how it was 
Ufatted. whether it was green or brown. Could any 
give me information on thU-golnt 1— C. G. , \ 

Digitized by GO gle 


9919. —Ten-week Stocks. — l have but a small 
garden, but In a tolerably open position in a suburb of I 
London. I buy at the best florists small plants of Stocks, 
and in planting, use a little of Clay's fertiliser, but every 
year the plants turn out to be wretched little carica¬ 
tures ; they bloom in a miserable way, and are quite 
dwarfed. How should I treat them to prevent this, and 
to obtain ordinary growth ?—W. 

9920. —Insects In fruit trees.—Last year a large 
Pear tree in my garden died somewhat suddenly, and, on 
examination, I found the bark and part of the wood of 
the trunk eaten away and turned into a sort of sawdust. 

I now find several other trees (Apples) attacked in the 
same way. Is there auy way of destroying the insects, or 
whatever it is, without injuring the trees? I should be 
glad to know what to do.—A. Read. 

99-21. — Treatment of Rhododendrons. — How 
should Rhododendrons be treated in a large bed where the 
common sorts are ousting the better kinds. Is it necessary 
after some years to do anything to Rhododendrons on a 
bank to ensure full flowering ? The soil of the bank is 
dry and sandy, though the plants were put in peat at 
planting.—G. H. 

9922.—Plants for old gravel pit —I have a 
wilderness—part of a gravel pit much shaded with trees, 
in which I want something to grow to cover the ground 
and make it look green. I have tried Ivy and other 
things, but none of them seem to grow, they dwindle 
away. If anyone can assist me with an idea, 1 shall be 
much obliged.—P. S. 

9923 —Young Celery plants.— The Celery plants I 
have bought this year are weak and drawn up from not 
having had enough room. Is there any danger of their 
growing hollow or piped in consequence ? They are 
supposed to be Sutton’s Superb Pink. Can I reasonably 
expect to succeed in raising my own plants by sowing in 
boxes in a dwelling room ?—E. H. H. 

9924. —Moving Scotch Firs.—I propose moving 
some large Scotch Firs in the autumn which average from 
10 feet to 14 feet in height, soil yellow loam, subsoil chalk. 

I saw some time since in Gardening some way of pre¬ 
paring them by digging round them. Will some reader 
kindly give me the advice I require, as to time to prepare 
them and move them ?—C. L. 

9925. —William I. Pea.—In Gardening Illus¬ 
trated is recommended William I. Pea for present 
sowing. It is often highly recommended as an early Pea. 

I shall be glad' to be informed if it can be also recom¬ 
mended for main crop, as if it can, I do not see the use 
of a perron having only a small garden sowing any other 
kind.—E. H. H. 

9920 —Manure for Onions and Celery.—I have 
grown Celery and Onions for show, but have not been 
very successful. I have tried many kinds of manure, 
but they have not been satisfactory. I should like 
advice as to which is the best manure. I have tried 
ammonia and guano.—J. T. A. 

9927. —Raising Ferns.—How can I raise young plants 
of Scolopendrium vulgare, variety* crispum. I have 
raised quantities of the other varieties of British Ferns 
from spores, but the above Fern, being barren, is 
raised in some other v ay. Perhaps some reader may be 
able to give information on the subject— Amateur. 

9928. —Black spots on Rose leaves.— I shall be 
much obliged if someone will tell me the cause of the 
black spots on my Rose leaves. All our Rose trees are 
the same this year. Is there anything I can do to prevent 
this ? Some of the stalks are also covered with black 
spots.—D. D. 

992 J.— Heating portable greenhouse.—I am 
erecting a portable wooden greenhouse, glazed without 
putty, size 15 feet by 9 feet and about 9 feet high, span 
roof. I shall be glad to know the best and most economi¬ 
cal way of heating it. Brick flues and similar arrange¬ 
ments cannot be attached to such a structure.— Novice. 

9930. —Seeds the second year.—I have some vege¬ 
table seeds (Parsnip, Carrot, Turnip, Cauliflower, Scarlet 
Runners, <fcc.)lefton hand, procured from a good Arm 
this year. Will it be wise to rely upon them next year ? 
Will good seed, two vears old, germinate as quickly as 
that only one year old ?—E. H. H. 

9931. —Dendrobium nobile.— I have a plant of the 
above which did not flower very well, but has made a 
number of young plants. I would be glad if some reader 
would say what I am to do with the young plants that 
have sprung up all round ; also the old plant.—N elly 
Gray. 

9932. — Pruning Gooseberry bushes.— When is 
the proper time for cutting Gooseberry bushes, and 
would somebody kindly inform me what measures are to 
be taken to prevent the rest of my Cauliflowers from 
succumbing to tiny little maggots, which are eating away 
their roots ?— Rudolphb. 

9933 — Budding Roses. — My Briers are budded 
every year by a gardener, who buds those of a neigh¬ 
bour, but, unlike my neighbour’s, mine fail to take. I 
may mention that my land has been well manured for 
years, and is enclosed by a wall 6 feet in height, and gets 
plenty of sun. Is there any remedy?—E. L. W. 

9934.—Strawberries.— I planted some young Straw¬ 
berries last March which are now bearing a good deal of 
fruit. They have also thrown out long runners, most of 
which have taken root, and in their turn are throwing 
out other runners. What ought I to do with these ?— 
Fragola. 

0935.—Plants for zinc tray.—Can any reader say 
what plants will grow in a zinc tray, 25 inches by 19 
inches by 8 inches, which is in a hothouse with Orchids 
and tropical Ferns ? Those which would flower preferred. 
—A. C. L. 

9930.—Drying herba—Will some reader tell me the 
proper time for gathering the following, and how to dry 
them to keep their colour, viz., Mint, Fennel, Thyme, 
Sage, Marjoram, and any other culinary herbs ? I want 
them for winter use.—C. T. 

9937.—Profit of Strawberries.—Will some grower 
of Strawberries kindly say what is considered a good crop 
of Strawberries per acre, and how much a man may hope 
to make per acre by growing Strawberries in a situation 
admirably suited for them ?— Kook y. | 


9938 —Australian Gum tree.—I have had some 
seeds of the Australian Gum tree sent tome, and if some¬ 
one would tell me how to sow them and treat the plants 
I shall bo greatly obliged. To what size do they grow ?— 
Medicus. 

9939.—Humea elegans.—Will some reader say if 
the above would make a centre plant for summer bedding 
in the North of England : also the time to sow it to have 
it ready for next summer? I should also like some descrip¬ 
tion of the plant.—N elly Gray. 

9940 — PropagatiDg Evergreens.—What is the 
best way of propagating Evergreens— Aucubas, Laurels, 
«fcc.? If by slips, when should they be taken, and how 
treated? I put some in the ground in a shady corner last 
year, but not one rooted ?—A. Read. 

994 1 .—Chrysanthemums.—I have some Chrysan¬ 
themums, about 12 inches high ; ought they to be put 
out in the open air now? If so, for how long? I wish 
them to bloom from about the beginning of December. 
Expkiumentallst. 

6942.- Deformed Roses.— All my Roses come de¬ 
formed ; what U the cause of this? Some are standards 
and some are upon own roots, yet both are a failure. I 
have tried manuring and transplanting for the last three 
years with no effect.—A mateur. 

9943. —Fruit baskets.—Will some reader kindly 
furnish me with the address of a large firm of makers of 
all kinds of fruit baskets, and also say about what price 
per 1000 the ordinary pint ones would come in at ?— 
Alfred Metcalfe. 

9944. —Ethiopian Lily.—I have one of these Lilies 
which has been going backwards for a long time ; will 
some reader tell me now to treat it ? It haB now only two 
leaves. Would it do to give it liquid manure ?— Experi¬ 
mentalist. 

9945. —Russian Water Melons -Will Russian 

Water Melons and Russian Cucumbers do under the same 
treatment as other Melons ; if not, what treatment do 
they require?—HENRY Hillack. . 

9940 — Semi-double Pelargoniums.—Will some¬ 
one kindly give a really good list of semi-double Gera¬ 
niums, which are free flowering and of dwarf habit?— 
Skmi-Double. 

9947.—Abella rupestris.—What soil and general 
treatment does this plant require; also when does It 
flower, and is it a profuse bloomer?—C onstant Sub¬ 
scriber. 

9943.—Indiarubber plants —Will someone kindly 
give me information on tne proper culture of the India- 
rubber plant ? I have lately bought one and the leaves 
are going brown.—T. E. 

9949. —Dahlias.—I have a good selection of double 
Dahlias, and although they are only one foot high they 
are showing flower buds. Ought these to be picked off 
or not ?—P. R. G. 

9950. —Water Betony.—I am told this made into a 
salve is a good cure for cuts and bruises. When is the 
proper time to gather it, and how is the salve made?— 
C. T. 

9951. —Buttonhole bouquets.—Can any reader in¬ 
form me how to make a buttonhole bouquet for exhibi¬ 
tion in August? What flowers are most suitable, and 
should it be large or small ?— Romeo. 

9952. —Arum Lily.—What is the correct name of this 
Lily, and what soil and general treatment does it re¬ 
quire ?—O0TIT. 

9963.—Greenhouse Climber.—Will any reader 
kindly name a good greenhouse climber that will give 
good supplies of cut flowers?—E xperimentalist. 

9954. —Dahlias In pots.—Will single Dahlias grow 
well and bloom in pots about 8 inches in diameter ?— 
H. T. W. 

9955. —Sowing flower seeds.—Will someone tell 
me what flower seeds can be sown in June and July with 
success ?—Bultitudk. 

9956. — Rosebuds splitting.— My Rose buds do not 
open properly, but split or burstonone side. What treat¬ 
ment should they have ?—Shirley. 

9957. —Propagating Clematises.—I have a white 
Clematis now flowering, and wish to take some cuttings. 
When would be the best time?—S hirley. 

995S.—Keeping Strawberries.—Is there any way 
of keeping Strawberries till September ?—Bultitude. 


BEES. 


SEASONABLE NOTES. 

Extracting surplus honey.— The honey 
gathering since the middle of May has been all 
that could be desired, the amount of honey stored 
by the bees has beeD very great, sections and 
supers have been qnickiy filled and swarms have 
been strong, although a little late. Advantage 
may be taken of this honey glut by removing the 
honey from the combs in the body of the hive 
with the extractor, which leaves the combs un¬ 
injured so that they can be returned to the hive 
to be refilled by the bees. By extracting, more 
room is also given for brood raising, for some¬ 
times in a good honey season the brood nest be¬ 
comes so filled with honey, that the queen has no 
empty cells in which to lay, the result of which 
is a cessation in the production of brood. In 
giving more breeding space by extracting, the 
population of the hive goes on increasing, and 
the bees are stimulated to greater activity. The 
frames of comb to be extracted are taken from 
the hive, the bees brushed or shaken off, the caps 
of the honey cells removed with an uncapping 
knife, and the combs placed in the revolving 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[June 30, 1883, 


cage of the extractor, two at a time : a POULTRY. 

few terns of the handle throws out the - 

honey from the outer sides of the combs. Brahmas. —-S’. D .—Your hen was suffering 

The cages in which the combs are placed from a disease commonly known as “ down be- 
are suspended on pivots at opposite corners, so hind. ’ It causes the bird to walk with difficulty, 
that; when one side of the combs have been and the lower part of the body almost, if not 
extracted, they can be swung round, which quite, touches the ground. We regret to say 
brings the combs in position for extracting the that no one, to our knowledge, has ever solved 
other sides. During a great honey glut, this may the real cause of such. As a remedy, the best 
be performed every four or five days, two combs plan is to let the hen sit for a few weeks, 
being taken from each hive. It is best to extract although it is seldom a permanent cure, and you 
from store combs only; but with care, honey can were quite right in killing the bird at once. The 
be extracted from combs partly filled with most, extraordinary part of it is that the patient 
brood; if the revolutions of the extractor be not continues to eat well, and lays moderately, as 
rapid, the brood will receive no injury, and the well as having the desire to sit at proper 
honey only will be thrown out. If all the honey intervals. lirahmas are very subject to 
is extracted from a hive, feeding must be per- this failing, in fact we never in our 
formed rather liberally, should unfavourable experience saw any other breed so affected, 
weather ensue. The extracted honey is drawn Ten pounds is a very good weight indeed for a 
off by a valve at the bottom of the can of the Brahma hen, and speaks well both for your 
extractor. Glass honey jars or bottles are now breed and the conditions under which they are 
made to hold when filled exactly one pound kept. They have, however, every advantage 
and two pounds of honey, so that in marketing with an acre of Grass run. As regards your 
it, weighing can be entirely dispensed with, system of feeding, you should substitute soft food 
Before it is bottled, however, it is allowed to for the barley in the morning. You must remem- 
reraain in a galvanised iron vessel for a few days, her that the birds have been fasting for many 
when the watery honey rises to the top, leaving hours daring the night, and perhaps for several 
the ripe honey at the bottom. If honey be put into more between the time of getting off the roost 
jars or bottles immediately after being extracted, and when the food is thrown to them, therefore 
fermentation will take place, but if properly a feed which they can commence to pass through 
ripened it will keep for a very long time. Pure the system almost at once, as in the case of soft 
extracted honey always granulates in a low food, must be better than hard grain, which 
temperature, this being a proof of its purity, takes at least an hour to enter the gizzard. Your 
The honey extractor is a very handy affair, and profit account of _£M is very good, and if we 
useful in its way, but white comb honey obtained understand you aright, you had besides abun- 
in dance of eggs for your own table as well as fifty 

Sectional boxes is far superior in appear- chickens. Will you oblige us with full details ? 
ance for the table to extracted honey. It is worth The same would prove very acceptable.— Anda- 
80 much more, and the demand for it is so LUSIAN. 

rapidly increasing, that he who would secure the Feather eaters. —6 H. Mortimer .—These 
best returns from bee keeping will aim at ob- cannibals, as you rightly term them, are gene- 
taining as much white comb section honey as rally to be found in all runs at some time or 
possible; one pound and two pound section other. Why they resort to the practice of eat- 
boxes filled with pure comb honey and glazed on ing one another's feathers has never been Batis- 
either side, present a most beautiful and attrac- factorily solved, but it is certain that in a few 
tive appearance, and find a ready sale. To weeks they do great mischief, and cause the 
ensure the filling of sections by the bees, the other birds to look anything but nice. A cure 
first thing necessary is to have stocks very strong is very hard to effect, and we advise you to kill 
and crowded, so as to be able to take advantage or get rid of the culprit at once. However, if 
of the super space while the honey yield (which you wish to try a remedy, commence by complete 
is of short duration) lasts. In order to induce isolation from any other birds, and give occupa- 
them todo thi9 the hive should be contracted, re- tion by scratching in a heap of rubbish. If meat 
moving all frames not containing brood, and has been given regularly, withhold it for a few 
closing up with the division board ; the bees weeks, but if you have not been in the habit of 
thus crowded have no option, but are obliged to giving any, try by throwing them a plentiful 
store their honey in the section boxes at the top supply every day. One bird often teaches several 
of the hive, or in those at the side of the brood to take to this bad habit, and the cock bird in a 
nest (a diaphragm of queen-excluder zinc inter- run is generally the first to suffer.— Andalusian. 
vening). In the latter position the bees work even Medloine _ 7Wa „, _< In casea of gUgh t 
more readily in the section boxes than when de ment 0 f the stomach or digestive organs, 
placed on the top of the h.ve. Havmg so crowded bronght about by overfeeding, the 

the bees as to leave them little room to store * L U - A 

honey for their own use in the body of the hive, P r ?P e . r TnfTfooH 

feeding must be attended to at the close of the “P T,'*' 

honey harvest, and it will be done liberally and . ,, . ^ ’ T1 t „f it t 

freely when it is remembered how the sections “i he J 

filled with pure white comb honey were obtained. ^ . . , • , 

As the sections become filled they should be re- exce P t ]t 15 a Iar ? e quantity, which points to the 

moved, first blowing a little smoke among them efeited^and the* ten^slrnffiTb'e keptqutet'^nd 
to clear them of some of the bees, taking out U ^sibTeA few 

those that are sealed over brushing off any ad- d hen d tfc 

hering bee9 back into the hive or on to the__ - .. __„ . - , w .. 

alighting board, and replacing those removed ^ ^ q * 

with fresh ones, having a piece of comb or comb ® ^ ’ 

foundation fixed in each, taking care not to let - 

the new sections down on the bees and so crush BIRDS. 

them. If sections of comb honey are to be sent _ 

away or marketed, they should be packed in a chaffing and canary mules.-Would 
section-crate, in which they will be protected „ A Rird Lover ■■ be kind en ' ngh to p Ve Bome 


. , , ] . . . eii .. n Diiu uurci uc wuu cuuugu iv buujc 

from dustand robbers, and travel safely by rail. particalars of the above, which lie states he has 
lioxTVort i. b. ... u. b re d, and pronounces to be exceedingly pretty ? 

for an acrimonions controversy upon the subject 
Drones.—What had I best do with the has been going on in the pages of a contemporary 
drones, which are very numerous amongst my for a considerable length of time, and so certain 
bees, so much so that they appear to outnumber 18 oae °‘ the parties to it of the improbability of 
the bees ?-Vera. [If a colony loses its queen, auch a cr °f that he lias offered £10 for a genuine 
from old age or accident, a fertile worker will canat 7 and chaffinch mule, which he pronounces 
sometimes deposit eggs in the cells ; these eggs be an impossibility. If “A Bird Lover kept 
produce drones only, and, there being no worker a together in the same aviary it 

brood hatching to take the place of those dying ’®' oa 'd be difficult for him, I should say, to trace 
from natural causes, the colony gradually tlie parentage of his mules with any degree of 
dwindles away. This is probably the case with certainty.— \V. T. Greene, F.Z.S. 

“Vera's ’’ bees, and the workers are thus becoming Water for parrots.—In reply to “ II. B„” 
outnumbered by the drones. The only remedy 1 beg to say that it is not so much on the score 
is to introduce a young fertile queen to the of cruelty that I object to the practice (unknown 
colony, otherwise it mast be broken up and except in this country) of keeping captive parrots 
divided betweer^strong stocks.—S. S. G.] without water, as because I know from long and 


ween.ntrong stocks,—S. 

Google 


varied experience that it is as necessary as food 
to preserve them in the best condition. Much 
at a time should never be given. — W. T. 
Greene, F.Z.S. 

Pood for cockatoos.— TF. C. G .—A cocka¬ 
too and a king parrot were kept for many years' 
fed almost exclusively on scalded bread. Take 
a slice of bread, pour boiling water upon it, and* 
let it soak for two or three minutes; remove it 
before it gets pappy, and squeeze tolerably dry 
with the hand. As a change, boiled rice is good; 
hempseed should be given only, say, half-a-dozen I 
grains at a time as an occasional treat. Its heat- 1 
ing properties, if given in excess, cause birds to 
lose their feathers, and will ultimately kill them, j 
Give water. Millet seed is much en joyed now and 
then, and a sprinkle of maw seed over the soaked.- 
bread, will be found a welcome addition to the 
menu, not forgetting any wholesome fruit as 
dessert. In fine weather a bath, by the agency of 
the garden watering pot is very beneficial, if!, 
there is sun to dry, and thus avoid cold.— Papa--' 
guy. 

-Dry maize is bad for any bird of the i 

parrot tribe ; it should always be boiled until it i 
is quite soft when pressed by the finger, and 
should be fresh every day; hemp seed is good, 
but should not be used exclusively; sopped bread 
made with warm but not hot water, with a small 
quantity of milk, say a teaspoonful, should be 
given every day fresh. The bread should be 
stale, or plain lunch biscuit sopped, and not 
too wet, may be used as a change. A piece of 
crumb of bread moistened with water and beaten 
into a stiff paste, with some fine raw sugar, most 
birds are fond of. A little ripe fruit, or a leaf of 
fresh lettuce are also good; and bird chillies (to 
be had of any grocer) should be given when the 1 
bird is moulting. Cockatoos seldom bathe: a 
sponge with warm water can be used if needful. 
The bird should be kept warm at night by a 
cover on the cage, and draughts specially 
avoided. I have three valuable birds treated as 1 
above.—E. M. M. 

- Give canary seed in addition to liemp, also monkey 

nuts, oats, and boiled maize, but not milk ; It always acts 
injuriously, though I am aware that it Is very generally 
given in this country.—W. T. G. 

AQUARIA. 

Breeding fish.— I have a cement aquarium 

in my garden 2J feet deep, 12 feet long, and 6 feet 
wide, in which my gold and silver fish do well, 
but make no increase. I should like to familiarise 
myself with their habits, and how to breed, Ac. 
The name of a good work on the subject would ■ 
be useful; the names of other creatures to add to 
the interest of the aquarium will also be gladly 
received. —Jonah. 

Bait for fish.—Will some reader kindly say what is 
the best bait for perch, tench, and pike in a pond? 
—S., Staffordshire 

Tortoise eggs.—Will some reader kindly inform me 
how to treat a tortoise egg which was laid J une 17 ? 
Ought it to be buried or merely left on the surface of the 
garden, as laid, and how long will it take to hatch 7 
—Tortoise. 

BOOKS. 

Fruit Culture for Profit. ByE. Hobday. 
—A well-written book, treating of allfkinds of 
hardy fruits, with chapters on pruning, plant¬ 
ing, and all the operations required in fruit 
culture. Its title would suggest that it is written 
expressly for market growers, but such is not 
the case, as the author’s idea of fruit culture for 
profit is that all who grow fruit grow it for pro¬ 
fit, whether they possess one solitary Apple tree 
or an orchard an acre in extent. The book will 
be found of great use to the gardener, the 
amateur, and the grower for market. 

The Apple In Orohard and Garden. 

By James Groom.—A practical and detailed 
treatise on the culture of the Apple in all kinds 
of positions and soils, with selections of varieties 
most suitable .for orchards and gardens, large 
and small. 

The Potato in Farm and Garden. Bi 

B. Kremlin. — A cheap and practical work or 
the culture of the Potato in the garden and ir 
the field, with articles on cropping, change o; 
i seed, diseases, marketing, raising seedlings, ,tc. 

The above little books form part of “ Robin 
i son’s Country Series,” and are published b , 
Messrs. Routledge and Sons at Is. each. 


GABDENINGr ILLUSTBATED 


Vor. V. 


JULY 7, 1883. 


No. 22G. 


ROSES. 

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 

The hose is, perhaps, the easiest florists ’ flower 
to cultivate, for to get it up even to exhibition 
mark requires only tho most simple, straight¬ 
forward cultivation; and to have good Roses in 
the garden and for catting requires no skill at 
all 

The best soil is a good rich, deep loam, 
inclining to clay. The Rose has strong roots, 
greatly resembling the French nails used for 
making packing cases in size and shape, and 
these roots like to have plenty of work to do. 

If the soil is a stifle clay it should be well broken 
up by exposure to frost, and improved by means 
of turfy loam and charrings from a smother. 
Whatever the soil is, it should he deeply dug 
and liberally manured with old rotten manure 
before planting. Climate has something to do 
with success in Rose growing. If the climate 
is moist, the Hybrid Perpetuals will be most 
successful; in a drier climate the Teas and 
Noisettes should be chosen. On iow-lying 
ground, plant the first; on high ground the 
latter kinds. 

Planting. —The site of a Rose garden should 
be level—on no account raise the beds above the 
general level. A sloping site suits the Teas, 
but if the whole garden slopes, the Roses 
planted should not be on Rrier. October and 
November are the best months to plant Roses, 
and the ground should be ready when the plants 
arrive, so that they can be planted at once. 
Plant to the same ground line as the plants were 
at when in the nursery; tread the ground firmly 
over the roots, stake all standards at once, and 
if dry, water. In January a mulching of old 
littery manure should be placed over the roots. 

Pruning time must be regulated by the 
climate; if subject to late frosts, prune as late 
as possible. In pruning a standard, all the 
weak shoots should be out clean out, and only 
four or five strong shoots left. When a stan¬ 
dard is thriving well this is easily done, as the 
strong shoots will, in many cases, be fresh ones 
springing clear from the budding in the outline 
of a enp or basin; these, if cut back to five or 
six eyes, will produce fine flowers. Amateurs 
are often afraid to prune, and leave weak, 
crowded, and frost-bitten wood, and get miser¬ 
able, mis-shapen flowers in consequence. Fear¬ 
ing the ill effects of the severe frost winds of 
March, I cut all last year's wood from my stan¬ 
dards, leaving most of them mere bird's-claws, 
with from three to eight inches of wood project¬ 
ing from the budding. That was a severe 
measure, but the result promises to be a splendid 
crop of fine flowers; many of the shoots are 
fresh ones from the budding point, which pro¬ 
mise to be 3 feet long by the time the flowers 
vpen. In pruning bush Roses, much depends 
m the shape of plant required; it is handiest to 
allow the kind of growth the plant has made to 
regulate that. Often one strong shoot has taken 
i he lead the previous season; when that takes 
place, it should be staked upright if it does not 
•ake that direction while growing,and at pruning 
•,ime should be shortened about a third; all 
the other shoots should be cut pretty close back, 
t he result of this pruning is a sort of standard 
rising from the middle of a bush, which is very 
-howy when in bloom. When several shoots 
nave made about equal growth, a round bush 
may be formed by pruning the shoots about 
■qual length; the shoots which happen to be at 
ibe back of the plant will be shaded by this 
method, but that is not always a disadvantage ; 
.i a scorching season, when the light and very 
’ark Roses are burned, a good bloom may often 
e cut from these shaded shoots. The Bourbon 
uses should be pruned as the H.-P.'s—the Teas, 
hinas, and Noisettes, should not be pruned 
and : the first two should be thinned out and 
long shoots shortened, and new wood en- 
'nraged as much as possible. The Noisettes 
squire the same treatment, except that, the new 
rood should be left almost, full length. 

Watkring and Mulchino.—A fter pruning, 
6* mulch of manure should he hoed in, and the 
hsface of the ground should be kept well tilled 

Digitized by GOOglC 


with the hoe all through the spring:, more espe¬ 
cially if the soil is very strong and heavy. This 
frequent hoeing of the ground has the effect of put¬ 
ting substance into the Roses and in to the leaves as 
well. The flowers come with petals stiff and thick 
and last well, both on the bushes and as cut flowers, 
and the foliage comes large, rich and healthy. 
When the plants begin to grow freely they should 
be watered with a solution of genuine Peru¬ 
vian Guano, a heaped tablespoonful to a pail of 
water, and a second time after the buds show. 
This liquid manuring should be repeated after 
the first bloom is over, and that may be said to 
complete the culture for the season. The 
moment the buds burst into leaves, maggots 
must be looked for. Search all shoots where the 
leaves do not seem to be spreading away from 
each other; the young leaves of many light 
Roses are downy, and this sometimes keeps the 
leaves together, but it is as well to search all 
shoots, as the fat brown maggot which does most 
harm almost always eats into the very centre of the 
shoot, and is sure to get at the Rose-bud. Other 
grubs are not so dangerous, as they eat the leaves 
as often as the buds. The leaf rollers of various 
kinds can easily be detected, but there is one 
kind of grub very destructive—it belongs to a 
family which infest trees. They have six feet 
forward, and two pairs of strong grasping false 
feet near the tail, and have a gland just behind 
the mouth from which they can spin a thread 
like a spider. The difficulty of detecting these 
is caused by their always assuming exactly the 
colour of the twigs of the plant they feed on, so 
that one may pass them by, even when of a large 
size, mistaking them for a withered twig, which 
they greatly resemble. 

Never plant Roses near a Hawthorn hedge, as 
the same insects feed on both, and the mass of 
deformed twigs caused by constantly clipping 
the hedge is a perfect nursery for insect vermin 
of all kinds. 

Thinning the shoots.— When the shoots 
come too thick, they should be thinned out, es¬ 
pecially those which cross each other or come 
up in the centre of the bush or head. All cutting 
or pruning should be done with a proper and 
very sharp pruning knife. Many of those sold 
are very inferior, both in shape and steel. For 
Roses, the big deerhorn-handled knives are 
mostly far too large; the blade should be less 
than half an inch wide, and curved like a 
Turkish scimitar. With a straight blade, it is 
necessary to put so much pressure on the shoot 
that one often cuts that away and the next one 
as well; but with a curved blade scarcely any pres¬ 
sure is necessary, and a draw cut, merely pulling 
the knife towards one, goes clean through the 
shoot to be removed without danger of going 
further. Roses generally produce a cluster of 
buds at the tips of the shoots; the centre one will 
generally be the best flower, but in some seasons 
this comes deformed. When that is the case it 
should be pinched out and one or more of the 
others left to grow. Some Roses have often a 
centre bud surrounded by a cluster of three.When 
a shoot is very strong, the centre bud may be 
pinched out and the three buds left to bloom 
together. Roses should not be kept too moist at 
the root, neither should they be allowed to become 
too dry, the ground should be kept moderately 
moist; though it is dry on the surface, it will not 
matter so long as the Roses have a moist root run. 
Liquid manure should not be given when the 
ground is dry; if it is necessary to give it, then a 
good soaking of water should be given a few hours 
previously. In hot, dry weather a good syringing 
given early in the morning will greatly refresh 
the plants. 

Roses fail with amateurs from the following 
causes:—Planting standards in or near large 
smoky towns, where only bush Roses can thrive 
fairly; planting standards on dry, gravelly, 
sandy, or chalky subsoils; planting Roses in 
holes dug in wholly unprepared soil, with a 
shovelful of raw manure at the bottom ; plant¬ 
ing standards singly in small beds round lawns, 
or, worse still, closing their roots in with turf; 
planting standards within a few feet of a hot 
brick wall, facing south, where they are burned 
by reflected heat; planting Roses in front of 
shrubs, where their roots are robbed by the 


shrubs; neglecting to tread the ground firmly 
after planting is completed. Roses do best in 
new gardens, other things being equal. If they 
have to be planted in old garden soil, every 
opportunity should be seized of adding fresh 
yellow loam, or, failing that, well broken up 
clay. One of the best manures for Roses is the 
emptyings of a cesspool; open holes about two 
spits deep between the plants, about 2 feet 6 in¬ 
ches or so away from them. Pour a pailful oE 
the manure into each hole, and after it has 
soaked in a little replace the soil. J. D. 


SELECTING ROSES. 

The time of Rose shows is now with us. The 
season is exceptionally favourable. Plants, 
except in a few districts, are healthy and ex¬ 
tremely free from insects, and even the Wild 
Briers in the hedges are showing the genial 
influence of the time by producing an unusual 
quantity of blush flowers, some being even quite 
a full pink, much to the delight of the cottager’s 
children. 

As many of the readers of Gardening will 
doubtless visit one or more of these shows, a 
few words of caution may be necessary as to the 
selection of varieties for the garden, especially 
to those who are meditating purchasing a few 
lioses for their own gardens, and who wish to 
form some idea of what the great array of names 
iu the catalogues represent. If we except pot 
Roses, only the cut blooms are exhibited at the 
Rose shows, but there are indirect ways in which 
an amateur can arrive at a correct estimate of 
the Roses which are most likely to suit him. 
First, there are the large collections exhibited 
by the trade growers, then the class of forty- 
eight varieties in which those amateurs who 
grow Roses by the -thousand compete with the 
nurserymen and occasionally win, and last, there 
are the more modest twenty-fours and twelves, 
in which the smaller growers can expect to make 
a respectable show. In selecting, book first the 
names of those Roses which appear most fre¬ 
quently, especially in the winning collections. A 
good Rose may occasionally be omitted in this 
way, but such an omission can be corrected by 
comparison with the winning collections of 
previous years. Those Roses which win year 
after year are generally fairly vigorous and free- 
flowering, and have the good quality of producing 
a large proportion of perfect flowers; those which 
win one year in six aregenerally liable to havo their 
blooms disfigured by untoward seasons; some¬ 
times, however, they are only too late foi; the 
shows or too early. Roses which appear only 
in the larger collections arc either new Roses 
or Roses which do not bloom freely or are un¬ 
certain. In the larger shows there is a separate 
competition for new Roses. Many beautiful 
Roses are weak growers, or otherwise objection¬ 
able as decorative plants. Two very beautiful 
dark Roses, for instance, whicli one can never 
see without wishing to grow them, are Xavier 
Olibo and Louis Van Houtte ; both are wholly 
useless as decorative plants. 

Many of the best decorative Roses do not pro¬ 
duce 6how flowers, and the amateur who merely 
requires twenty-four varieties or so, and intends 
to plant these about his beds and borders, should 
not select more than six show Roses. Never 
buy new Roses for garden decoration unless they 
are merely sports from old varieties, differing 
only in colour. New Roses, if good, are forced 
and propagated to such an extent during the 
first years of their existence, that the plants 
have a great chance of being weakened, and it 
is always best to let the new varieties be 
thoroughly tested by the leading exhibitors be¬ 
fore purchasing. Some new Roses decline in 
vigour, and others prove unsuitable for our 
climate, while some rush into favour at once and 
keep their place, and some increase in vigour and 
win their way to favour. It is time enough for 
the small grower to buy a new Rose when it 
has been five or six years in general cultivation. 
Before finally deciding what Roses to buy, a pil¬ 
grimage should be made through a good Rose¬ 
growing district, such as the Valley of the Lea. 
There the Roses have overflowed from the great 
Rose nurseries into all the gardens, and copious 




204 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[July 7, 1883. 


notea can be made of the appearance of many 
varieties of several years' growth. The Rose 
nurseries should themselves be visited, and not 
only the large nurseries where Roses are made 
a speciality and are grown by tens of thousands, 
but the small nurseries where they only grow 
a few hundreds, more especially those in the 
immediate neighbourhood, and on the same 
Boil as the garden to be planted. A second 
visit to the nurseries should be made in August 
and September to make notes of the best 
autumn bloomers, and a selection can then be 
made with intelligence and certainty. 

Those who like a quiet garden, and do not ob¬ 
ject to rich greenery, might do worse than avoid 
the show varieties of the Rose altogether, with 
the exception of a bush or two of those sorts 
which flower most freely. Plant instead Anna 
Alexieff and the old white Rose in the more dis¬ 
tant nooks, and nearer, the k Maiden's Blush, 
Madame Audot, Madame Legras, Madame Plan- 
tier, and as many of the old Damasks as can be 
got. In a special rich bed, plant the old Cab¬ 
bage or Provence Rose. The Unique, the .white 
Provence, the common Moss, Marie de JBlois, 
Gloire de Mousseuses, Julie de Mersant, Adele de 
Murinais, Soupert et Notting, the perpetual 
white Moss, and the U. P. Mrs. Bellender Ker 
on its own roots. These are all very sweet 
scented, much more 60 than other Roses. Plant 
also the round, buxom, bushy, Scotch Roses, and 
the Hybrid Chinas, Coupe de Hebe and Charles 
Lawson. Then, to make arches and trellisses, 
the Boursaults Amactis and Gracilis, the ever¬ 
green Felicity 1'erpetut, the hybrid climbers, the 
Garland and Madame D'Arblay, the Hybrid 
Chinas, Blairi, No. 2, Chenedolex Fulgens, 
Vivid, and the Hybrid Tea, Cheshunt Hybrid. 
To brighten the garden when the summer Roses 
are over, plant standards of Gloire de Dijon, 
Celine Forestier, Caroline Kuster, Homer, 
Baronne de Maynard, Souvenir de la Malmaison, 
and Aimfie Vibert, and bushes of Baronne Pre- 
vost, Perfection de Blanches, Glory of Waltham, 
Princess Louise, Jules Margottin, John Hopper, 
Elizabeth Vigneron, General Jacqueminot, La 
France, and the white China Rose Ducher, and 
of smaller growth. Baroness Rothschild, the 
Bourbon Roses Armosa and Queen, and the 
Chinas Semperflorens, Archduke Charles, Cra- 
moisie Superieuse, Fabvier, Eugene Beauharnais, 
and Mrs. Bosanquet. Such a selection of Roses 
supplemented in the south of England by a 
small collection of dwarf Tea Roses, would give 
far more satisfaction in most gardens than a 
collection of show Roses of even the best varie¬ 
ties. J. D. 


9874 and 9880.— Roses falling —•• Exon ” 
and “ Amateur's " Roses are behaving exactly as 
if the ground had not been trodden hard when 
the Roses were planted. Before planting Roses, 
the ground should be well dug 2 feet deep, and 
at the same time liberally manured with old, 
rotten manure. In “ Exon's" case, the clay 
might be turned over with advantage, and a 
little of it mixed with the garden soil. Where 
the soil is light, clay or marl and rotted turf, or 
the top spit of an old pasture, should be added; 
this addition of heavier material is less essential 
where the climate is wet. After planting, tread 
the ground hard ; this is most important. The 
mulching of well-rotted manure which is laid 
over the roots in winter should be pricked or 
hoed in in March, but although frequent hoeing 
in spring is an advantage, especially where the 
soil is heavy, the ground should never be stirred 
so deeply as to disturb the roots. The best 
manure for summer is either Clay's fertiliser, 
Amies' manure, or genuine Peruvian guano, laid 
round the roots, and covered over with 2 inches 
of soil; used in this way it is carried down to 
the roots gradually by the rains and waterings. 
—J. D. 

9906.— Inoreaalng own-root Rosea — 
It is usual and common to increase own-root 
Rose bushes by division. In fact, it is the safest 
and quickest way to get up a stock of own-root 
Rose bushes. But such operations are beat done 
in autumn, and should on no account be 
attempted at midsummer. Each bush will 
usually make several good plants.—J. B. B. 


Ladybirds and aphides.— Allow me to 
advocate the introduction of ladybirds (Coccinel- 
lidie) into greenhoases infested with aphides, 
which they destros-in,vast numbers, whilst they 

Digitized by (^OOQ lC 


themselves do no injury to the most delicate 
plants. They deposit small yellow patches of 
eggs in the spring wherever plant lice abound, 
so that the larva.' is hatched snrrounded by its 
natural food. In about three weeks these larvie 
are fully grown, and are generally dark 
grey or yellow with black spots and hairy 
tubercles down the back, intermixed with a 
few scarlet spots. The pupte is of a shiniDg 
black colour, with a row of orange spots down 
the back.—H. MOULTON. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


NEW FERN FOR A GREENHOUSE. 
There are few Ferns that have beoome so 
widely distributed in so short a time as this 
crested variety of the Java Hare’s-foot (Nephro- 
lepis), a species which is seldom met with in 
private gardens. The peculiar characteristic of 
this variety is distinct forking of each pinna of 
the fronds, which are often divided at the 
extremities in a tufted or tasselled manner, and 
very handsome. Our illustration, which was 
prepared from a plant in the Royal Horti¬ 
cultural Society’s garden at Chiswick, shows 
well the graceful habit of growth of this Fern, 
the fronds of which are always produced in this 
manner from a central tuft, and often measure 


VEGETABLES. 


RAISING NEW KINDS OF POTATOES. 
The time is now near when Potato plants will 
be blooming, and the opportunity then offered 
to many who may desire to secure new varieties 
from seed is so comparatively Bhort that it 
is well to begin in time, and especially with the 
early ones, as, on the whole, early ripeners prove 
to be the most useful if they are also good crop¬ 
pers and of fine quality. No trust can be placed 
in the distinctiveness of kinds raised from seed 
that are natural seedlings. As a rule, the Potato, 
when it does fertilise its flowers, does so with its 
own pollen, and intercrossing is a great rarity. 

, Hence, natural seedlings are invariably but re¬ 
productions of the parent kind. The raiser of 
1 that famous kind Magnum Bonum claims that 
| it was the product of naturally fertilised flowers, 

I the seed parent being the Early Rose, and it was 
supposed the pollen parent was Paterson’s Vic¬ 
toria. That, however, is mere conjecture; whilst 
it is so certain that Early Rose never fertilises its 
own flowers, for the simple reason that they con¬ 
tain no pollen, that I have grave doubts whether 
the assumed natural cross in this case is a cor¬ 
rect explanation of the parentage of Magnum 
Bonum; but if it be so, then it is one of the most 
remarkable things in connection with Potato 
i hybridisation that I have ever heard of. Now, 



Java Hare's-foot Peru (Nephrolepis dftyallolues fiucans.) 


as much as 3 feet or 4 feet in length. The fronds , 
being of a hard texture withstand rough treat -' 
meat better than those of most FernB, and it is 
therefore valuable on that account alone. It 
thrives well in a greenhouse if supplied with an 
abundance of water in summer. We have seen 
healthy young plants of it in Messrs. Veitch's 
nursery at Chelsea, and other large nurseries 
near London. 


9901.—Chinese Primulas. — Old plants 
of Chinese Primulas are often very difficult to 
keep through a second winter, owing to the com¬ 
mon tendency on the part of the plants to damp 
off just in the stem or collar. This rot is the 
more common when the plants are kept in a cold 
greenhouse, but is less so when a comfortable 
heat can be given to the plants to induce growth. 
This decay does not affect seedling plants, and 
therefore it is best to raise young ones from 
seed by sowing a pinch in a pan during the 
month of May. To try and preseive old plants, 
however, it is desirable now to pinch out all 
flower-stems and remove all decaying leaves ; 
then give the plants a shift into pots just a size 
larger, potting with nice sandy loam, in which 
there is a good mixture of rotten manure. The 
plants must then be placed in a frame looking 
north, and be kept close shut for a couple of 
weeks to induce rapid root action, and then 
abundant air may be given in order to harden 
the plants and get them ready to go into the 
greenhouse for flowering daring the winter. 
—A. 


all Potato"(growers are aware that many kinds of 
Potato, though blooming freely, yet fail always 
to set thein blooms, and these fall soon after 
opening. AN these kinds are without pollen, or 
very deficient\of it. On the other hand, some 
kinds are so rich in pollen, as for instance Wood¬ 
stock KidneyAGrampian, Blanchard, and others, 
that they set Vvery bloom, and hence produce 
immense quantities of seed berries. To raise seed 
from these woyld be but to perpetuate the 
parent kinds, anS no benefit would result. Be¬ 
sides, all these (kinds that thus produce seed 
fruit are a nuisan ce,as their production so abun¬ 
dantly does but r >b the roots of nutriment, and 
the crop suffers ; whilst it is equally a nuisance 
to have to handp ck all the flowers, and that is 
the only remedy. Still, it is evident that some 
kinds that produce! flowers and have pollen in 
them must be grown, if we are to obtain new, 
distinct varieties; t>ut plenty of kinds have suffi¬ 
cient pollen in the Iflowers to effect the desired 
object, even if nipt enough to produce self- 
fertilisation. That;seems to be a paradox, but 
it is easily explained in this way: In cross- 
fertilising two kinds,' the ordinary plan in obtain¬ 
ing pollen is to take la flower from the kind that 
is to be the pollen parent, and turning back the 
petals, take it between the tops of the two fore¬ 
fingers of the left haod, placing the nail of the 
thumb just beneath tho pollen cases, which should 
be projecting from the front of the fingers. A 
sharp touch or lift with the point of a penknife 
will cause whatsoever pollen may be in the flower 
to fly out and Bettle oh the thumb-nail, but the 
quantity may be bo entail that some half dozen 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


XI 




<0 


t* 

»i| 





*1 


‘I 
















Jolt 7, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


205 


or even more flowers must be so operated upon 
before enough is obtained to effect safe fertilis¬ 
ation of, say, a couple of blooms on another 
plant. As a rule, all so carefully set or 
“pollenised ” will produce seed-balls, and will 
stand whilst even' other bloom will fall with¬ 
out producing a single seedball. Still there is 
risk, and it is well to set three or four flowers, 
but not more than two in any case on the same 
trass or even plant. Whenever intercrossing is 
done, the first thing to do is to select the truss 
on which flowers are to be fertilised, and pinch off 
all but two blooms. If the kind is known to 
contain plenty of pollen, the cases which cluster 
around the pistil—the organ of fertilisation— 
should be carefully removed as soon as the petals 
expand and before self-fertilisation can take 
place. The pistil will be fit to receive pollen about 
twodays later. If, however, the kind is known to be 
deficient in pollen,or never to set its own blooms, 
that precaution need hardly be taken, as no harm 
can result from leaving them. When, therefore, 
the flowers have been selected that are to be 
operated upon, it is well to fix a stick to the 
stem of the haulm from which the flowers come, 
and tie it securely, so that it may thus be found 
when needed, and also be protected from winds. 
The pollen being now on the thumb nail, as ad¬ 
vised, it is so carried to the flowers to be fer¬ 
tilised, and the projecting pistils are very 
carefully dipped into it, or drawn lightly across 
the nail once or twice, so that pollen enough to 
produce fertilisation is taken up. When that is 
arcomplished.it but remains to mark with a card 
or label the nature of the cross made, and all is 
done that can be done for the time being. As the 
seed-balls mature, it may be as well to tie over 
them a small piece of muslin to catch them should 
they suddenly fall, as is very likely to be the case 
should the disease affect the tops before the 
balls are fully matured. It not unfrequently 
happens that the disease in thus early checking 
growth prevents the seed-balls from ripening, 
and hence the labour for the year is thrown 
away; but if early kinds be employed and fer¬ 
tilisation be performed as early as possible, that 
danger is minimised. When the seed-balls 
are gathered, they should be placed in bags 
separately', with the descriptive label, and kept 
till the hard flesh having somewhat decayed, the 
seeds may be cleaned out either by washing or 
by dry rubbing: then when quite clean and dry 
be put into packets, marked by numbers, and 
kept in a dry' place for sowing in April. It is 
best to sow seed in pans under glass, to prick the 
seedlings out into other pans or shallow boxes, 
and when strong at the end of May to trans¬ 
plant into the open ground, giving plenty of 
room. A. D. 


9010.— Onions and Strawberries— It 

is rather an odd combination thus to mix up the 
inodorous Onion with the deliciously perfumed 
Strawberry; besides, the query as to whether 
these thiDgs should be put out in parallel lines 
cr anglewise would apply equally to all kinds of 
plants. As Onions are usually sown or dibbled 
out in rows at 12 inches apart, it is very obvious 
that it is of little consequence whether the plants 
come opposite to each other or alternately. Straw¬ 
berries, too, should be planted in rows at from 20 
to 24 inches apart, and 15 or 18 inches from each 
other in the rows, and therefore the plants will 
hardly touch each other, let them be planted how 
they may, unless they grow to a remarkable size. 
It is the rule to angle these, however, audit is as 
well eo to plant all things that need ample space 
in the rows.—D. 

9911.— Rhubarb.— When the stalks thrown 
ap by Rhubarb roots are weak and spindly, it is 
evident that the roots are in soil which does not 
suit them, and needs nutriment. If it be possible 
to keep the roots well watered during hot, dry 
weather, we would advise their being lifted at 
ooce, and, if large, cutting them in halves or into 
three pieces with a sharp spade, then replanting 
in another part of the garden in good soil, into 
vbicta bas been worked a heavy dressing of 
manure. Rhubarb is a gross feeder, its roots need 
‘ogo deep and have ample sustenance; and before 
ianting it is well to trench the soil 2 feet in 
•cptb, working in below the top spit of earth a 
w'ood dressing of manure. When the roots are re¬ 
canted, give a good soaking of water to settle the 
•oil about them, then lay on and around the 
c-'whb a mulching of loaf Ihanure. Wheik cqice 
t£< roots get hold of thd^rejl^i: a) U P 


good autumn leaves, the plants will be safe, 
and an ample supply of Rhubarb is ensured for 
several years.—D. 

9897.— Cucumbers failing.— It seems as 
if in this case the Cucumber plants were being 
shaded to death. Really they need but little 
shading, especially if air be given, but at least 
when the sun pours down with great power, no 
harm is done by giving a little shade for three or 
four of the midday hours, just to protect the 
foliage from scaldiDg, and the heat in the house 
or frame from becoming too high. An average 
temperature of from 70° to 80° suits Cucumbers 
very well, especially at this time of the year 
when there is ample light. It may, however, 
happen that the soil in which the plants are 
growing is unfit, is perhaps sour, or contains 
wireworm, or, on the other hand, is too light and 
porous, for Cucumber roots prefer a stiffish, turfy 
loam, rather than a light, porous soil. Giving 
good soil, ample heat, and a fair supply of 
moisture, and we have always found Cucumber 
growing to be as simple and easy as any garden 
work.—A. D. 


FRUIT. 

9909.— Summer pruning of Currant 
bushes. —Theoretically, it is well to summer 
prune Currant bushes. Practically, scarcely any¬ 
one does it, perhaps for the simple reason that 
the pruning would have to be done just at the 
time of the year when a gardener's hands are so 
full he hardly knows which way to turn. In 
private gardens the mode of winter pruning Red 
Currants differs very much from that seen in 
market gardens. In the former case very much 
more wood is left in the bushes, and the side 
shoots of the previous summer are shortened 
back hard, whilst leaders are left to a length of 
several buds. In the market gardens the bushes 
are literally cut into bare poles ; in fact, a bush 
resembles some half dozen gnarled sticks stand¬ 
ing up out of the earth, and nothing more. 
Where the bushes are kept so thin and hard 
spurred, if they produce less fruit, it is perhaps 
finer, and when Currants are plentiful, as they 
usually are, it is a primary consideration. We 
advise “ Currant Jelly” to give summer pruning 
a trial, and leave other bushes as at present 
pruned. The j esult will soon 6how him whether 
what is right in theory is after all best in 
practice.—A. D. 

THE COMING- WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary—July 9 to 
July 14. 

Totting Tree Carnations in stiff soil, pressing them in 
firmly; sowing a row of Mignonette for supplying cut 
blooms; also another crop of Endive : planting Cauli¬ 
flowers and Taris Cos Lettuce; clipping hedges and 
cutting Laurels; sowing Snowball and American 
Strap-leaf Turnips; putting in cuttings of Carnations 
and Finks under hand-lights; planting out Wheeler’B 
Imperial and Heartwell Early Marrow Cabbages for 
autumn use; layering Strawberry runners, three in a 
hunch, on pieces of turf 6 inches square, for making new 
plantations ; stopping and nailing in the shoots of Toma¬ 
toes ; looking over Cucumbers and Melons, stopping the 
shoots at one joint past the fruit, and earthing them up 
a little where required ; mulching late Peas and Beans 
with well-rotted manure: shaking out and repotting old 
plants of Poiusettias; pulling up Shallots and laying them 
in the sun to ripen; sowing a little Chervil for autumn 
and winter use; also Mustard and Cress; taking up and 
diriding a quantity of old Polyanthuses; planting out 
Celery in trenches: getting up early Potatoes and storing 
them away for seed. 

Plunging all pot Roses in open ground, and placing 
Azaleas out-of-doors to ripen their wood and clear 
them of thrips; storing away Shallots and Garlic on 
floor of cool loft, and shading Peaches that are ripe, 
in order to keep them back; sowing Green Curled and 
Frazer’s Broad-leaved Endive ; pricking off herbaceous 
Calceolarias; also Cinerarias and Primulas; picking off 
the dead flowers and nailing and tying in Roses on walls ; 
cutting herbs and placing them in an open shed to dry ; 
sowing Red and White Turnip Radishes; putting in 
cuttings of different sorts of Pelargoniums; stopping and 
nailing in the leading shoots of Peaches, Nectarines, and 
other wall fruit; sticking Peas and getting them earthed 
up ; potting Roses in a mixture of loom, manure, bones, 
charcoal, and sand ; planting May-sown Autumn Giant 
Cauliflowers on land lately cleared of Peas; leaving the 
lights of Peach houre open day and night where th e 
fruit has all been gathered ; also giving abundance of 
air to all Vines where the OrapeB have commenced to 
colour. Sowing Canadian Wonder Dwarf French Beans; 
earthing up early Celery when the soil Is dry and in 
workable condition; stopping and pegging down Vege¬ 
table Marrows, and giving them a good soaking of manure 
water; looking over Vineries, stopping laterals, and 
giviog all late Vines a good soaking with guano water; 
potting strawberry runners ; planting Green Cos, Baih 
( os, and Neapolitan Cabbage Lettuce; also late Celery; 
putting in cuttings of Hydrangeas, scarlet Pelargoniums, 
Cytisus, and Coleus ; repotting young Cyclamens in loam. 


leaf soil, and sand, afterwards placing them in a cold 

S it and shading them until well established; sowing 
atavian and Green-curled Endive, Hill’s Incomparable 
and Early Market Cabbage ; also Cucumbers for winter 
supply ; digging land in which to plant Wallflowers, and 
earthing up Cauliflowers and Winter Greens. Giving 
Peaches and Nectarines a good washing every evening 
with the garden engine to keep down insects. 

Glasshouses. 

Balsams.— These quick-growing plants very 
soon fill their pots with roots, and where it is 
intended they should grow large they must have 
proportionately large pots, but it is of little use 
shifting them when the bloom buds are much 
advanced; in that case all that can be done is 
to use manure water. A diligent outlook must 
be kept for aphides on all such plants, without 
which they are likely to get infested, and their 
foliage being tender does not well bear Tobacco 
smoke. Quassia water, made by pouring boiliDg 
water on Quassia chips and letting them remain 
in it for a day or so, is a good preventive, its 
bitter properties being distasteful to most kinds 
of insects. Aphides rarely make their appearance 
on plants syringed with Quassia water once a 
week or so. 

Chrysanthemums.— These should now be 
in their blooming pots, and all that are strong 
should be stopped for the last time. It is a 
mistake to stop the shoots so often or so late as 
is sometimes practised, as where that is done, 
and the summer happens to be a short one, the 
llowers set so late as to have insufficient time to 
get fairly formed before it is necessary to take 
the plants indoors, and where large flowers are 
required stopping interferes with their pro¬ 
duction. A few sticks should be placed to each 
plant in time to prevent its being broken by 
wind. As soon as the roots fairly enter the new 
soil, manure water ought to be used once or 
twice a week. The idea that Chrysanthemums 
should not have any stimulants given them until 
the Sowers are set is a mistake, it being 
impossible to keep the lower leaves on them 
without it, even where the attention in the 
matter of water is such as to prevent their ever 
suffering through drought. 

Drac.enak.— Whatever propagation is to be 
yet done with these, it should no longer be de¬ 
layed. The crowns of all the stove varieties, as 
well as most of the greenhouse kinds, will strike 
readily in water in heat, and the leaves attached 
suffer less when they are struck in this way than 
if the rooting process is effected in soil or sand ; 
the crowns to be so dealt with should be taken 
off in the usual way, but may be left a little 
longer—that is, so many leaves need not be 
removed. They may then be put four or six to¬ 
gether in anything in the shape of small jam¬ 
pots, keeping the pots supplied with water until 
the crowns are well rooted, after which they 
must be potted and kept close for a week or two 
until they have got established. This will be 
found a better method of dealing with the tops 
of these plants than that which is usually 
followed. The stems composed of the hard wood 
are best shaken out of the pots, taking off the 
bottom root pieces already formed and potting 
them singly. The stems may then have all the 
roots cut off as well as the leaves, and Ehould be 
laid flat down on the propagating bed, covering 
them entirely with about half an inch of soil. 
Thus managed they will push up a crop of young 
shoots from the eyes, that can be taken off when 
they have made three or four small leaves. 

Greenhouse plants out-of-doors. —The 
system of turning free-growinggreenhouse plants 
into the open ground in summer has much to 
recommend it, provided the selection made for 
such treatment is confined to plants naturally able 
to bear the root disturbance inseparable from the 
transfer from the open ground to pots before 
winter, and enough attention is given through the 
summer in the way of preparation, so as to 
avoid the check, otherwise calculated to result in 
serious injury. The plants chosen for this mode 
of summer management Bhonld be free rooters; 
amongst these are autumn-flowering Veronicas, 
Salvias,white and yellow Paris Daisies,Solanums, 
Chrysanthemums, and Callas : in all cases the 
soil ought to be free, open, and not over rich ; the 
former condition iB needful to admit of the 
plants being taken up with a thick mass of root: 
near home, i.e., well packed together about the 
collar, as opposed to the long straggling fibres 
which plants of most kinds have a disposition to 
make in heavy strong soils. Nor ehould the 
material be over-rich, as if so growth will be over 



206 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[July 7, 18B3. 


luxuriant; the plants will attain too much size, 
which will make them less easily accommodated. 
To still further keep them within a reasonable 
size it is well to cut back the roots with a spade 
once or twice during the summer ; this restricting 
operat ion is the more necessary in dripping sea¬ 
sons like the present, when all strong growing 
things are liable to get into an over-luxuriant 
condition. When the roots are in this way 
shortened it causes them to break back, and to 
make many more feeding fibres than they other¬ 
wise would do. The work should be done with 
judgment. Where there is a disposition in the 
plants to get too large or luxuriant, the root 
severing should be carried out before too much 
progress lias been made, or the leaves will suffer, 
and if the soil is at all dry enough, water must be 
given to prevent the leaves flagging, and in all 
cases where root shortening is thus effected they 
must be cut back, so as to keep the balls within 
the size of the pots they are ultimately to occupy. 
Where Chrysanthemums are grown in this way 
due attention must be given to tying the shoots 
up before they get so long as to be in danger of 
breaking with the wind. The advantage of 
planting out in this manner is that much less 
attention is required. 

Myrtles. —There are many who care for fra¬ 
grant-leaved plants quite as much as flowers, and 
although old - fashioned, independent of their 
sweet-smelling foliage, the flowers of Myrtles are 
pretty. Myrtles strike readily from cuttings, and 
where the stock is defleient it is well to put some 
in, choosing shoots that are about half ripe and 
not too strong ; if these can be slipped off with a 
heel they will root more easily. Put six or eight 
together in small pots, keeping them moist and 
close, but not in heat until the base of the cuttings 
arc callused over, after which they will bear being 
warmer. Myrtles are naturally erect - growing 
plants, and to keep them bushy they should be 
well cut back every year, by which means they 
may be kept fully furnished with green foliage 
down to the base. When the plants have attained 
a moderate size they are better out-of-doors in the 
summer. The ordinary double-flowered old variety 
and the small-leaved Jenny lteichenbach are both 
good kinds; the last especially is very pretty in 
bouquets, and gives to arrangements of flowers of 
this kind a perfume which the other materials 
of which they are composed are not unusually 
defleient. 

Lantanas. —These plants, though not so 
much grown as they once were, can easily be 
made very useful in greenhouses and conserva¬ 
tories during the summer and autumn months at 
a season when there is insufficient variety. Their 
continuous disposition to flower causes the plants 
to get into an exhausted state, unless they have 
adequate pot room to meet the free production 
of roots natural to them; this can to some extent 
he met by the regular nse of manure water. 
Where wanted to bloom freely late in the autumn, 
a sufficient number should now be stood out-of- 
doors, with their pots plunged in ashes, in all 
cases keeping them freely syringed daily, and 
stopping any shoots that grow too luxuriantly. 

Roses in tots. —Tea roses for pot culture 
of most varieties are best grown on their own 
roots, and where a considerable stock is required, 
cuttings should be put in annually. Shoots of 
medium strength in a half-ripened state taken off 
now and put five or six together in 4-inch pots, 
in sandy soil, and stood on a moist bottom in a 
close, cold frame, kept moist, and shaded when 
necessary for three weeks, will in this time get 
callused over at the bottom, after which, if sub¬ 
mitted to a humid heat, they will soon root 
freely ; whereas, if placed in heat without first 
having time to callus, many will damp off. 
Yonng stock of the Tea varieties struck in the 
spring should be kept under glass all the 
summer, as well as the ensuing winter: in 
fact, it is a question if this section of the Rose 
family is not better kept wholly under glass. It 
is so much their nature to be continuously grow¬ 
ing more or less during the greater portion of the 
year, that they do this out-of-doors, and with a 
glass covering they are never quite at rest, neither 
does it seem that rest is necessary for them, as 
plants so treated go on for an indefinite time 
increasing in size and retaining their vigour. 
The great thing is to feed them well by the 
repeated use of manure water, and to, keep 
them completely free from aphides, red spider, 
and mildew; if any of these pests are present 
they do injury in a very short timcjvhich it takes 

Go o|e 


Campanulas in pots and baskets. —The 
drooping C. fragilis makes one of the prettiest 
basket plants for a greenhouse or window that 
can be grown ; it is easily managed, and little 
subject to the attacks of insects, By placing a 
portion of the stock out-of-doors in the spring 
and keeping the rest in a greenhouse, the season 
of their blooming will be lengthened. This 
species will succeed in small pots—C-inch or 
8-incli are large enough—and they will do 
two or three years without repotting ; but 
when thus treated they should have manure water 
in the spriDg from the time they begin to grow 
up to their season of flowering. C. pyramidalis 
will now be coming into bloom, and should have 
manure water regularly until the flowers open. 
YouDg plants raised from seed sown early in the 
spring ought to be pricked off in the open ground 
in a bed of ordinary soil to which some leaf-mould 
and sand have been added, keeping them well 
watered in dry weather, for on their getting 
strong before autumn depends their ability to 
make handsome specimens next year. 

Flower Garden. 

Bedding plants.— The improved state of the 
weather has raised our hopes regarding bedded- 
out plants, which are now growing so freely that 
increased diligence is needed to keep them in 
neat form; peg them out to cover the ground at 
the earliest moment, and water liberally, but 
not too frequently; they will then root deeply 
and be uninjured by a few days' drought should 
circumstances prevent water being applied. 
Alternantheras and other delicate kinds would 
be greatly assisted by a syringing at sunset on 
warm evenings, and a light surface mulching o£ 
Cocoa fibre or leaf-soil. Keep all bad and 
seeding flowers off Violas, Verbenas, Calceolarias, 
and Petunias; this attention, combined with a 
good watering once or twice a week, will suffice 
to keep these usually quickly exhausted plants 
in vigorous condition throughout the entire 
season. Carpeting plants and undergrowths 
require to be gone over once a week ; Sedums 
and similar kinds should be pressed out with the 
fingers to prevent a tufty growth, while the 
creeping kinds should be pegged or pinched, and 
stronger growers, such as Mentha and Veronica 
rupestris, clipped. 

Herbaceous plant borders—As respects 
gaiety, these at the present time are in marked 
contrast to the bedders, and deserve all the 
labour as to keeping them in order—tying, 
weeding, and picking over—that can be afforded 
them. Without such attention it is needless to 
expect results at all proportionate to those had 
from bedding plants, hence their being so often, 
but unjustly, designated weedy and unsatis¬ 
factory. Fill up vacancies by planting out 
seedling biennials for flowering next year, such 
as Sweet Williams, Canterbury Bells, Geums, 
Columbines, Delphiniums, and other favourite 
kinds. Should the weather continue dry they 
will need watering about twice a week till well 
established. Other appropriate positions for 
these kinds of hardy plants are the margins of 
shrubberies in any part of the dressed grounds, 
but before planting them the shrubs should be 
trimmed and the ground about them freed from 
weeds, and the spots for the plants should be 
forked up, adding where convenient either well 
decayed manure or fresh soil. 

Fruit. 

Vines. —Early houses from which all the 
Grapes have been cut may now have the venti¬ 
lators left constantly open, and the syringe must 
be freely used to keep the foliage clean and 
healthy until the wood is quite ripe. Keep inside 
borders in a moist growth-encouraging state by 
the frequent use of diluted liquid, and add more 
mulching outside to protect the surface roots now 
working freely in the top-dressing. If the Vines 
are in a healthy state, lateral growths will soon 
be abundant and valuable, but they must not be 
allowed to run wild, otherwise they will do harm 
by crowding the main foliage now filling up and 
perfecting the buds from which the next year’s 
crop of fruit is to be obtained. Now all the 
thinning is finished it will be advisable to go 
over the bunches in late houses with the scissors 
for the last, time, and remove a few of the smallest 
berries where they are likely to bind, for if once 
allowed to become jammed their removal cannot 
be accomplished without leaving marks which 
will be visible when the Grapes are ripe. If not 
already done, put on more mulching, and give all 


the inside borders a heavy watering with warm 
liquid or guano water, fill the evaporating pans 
every morning, and damp the borders with the 
same after closing for the day. The warm 
weather will enable us to reduce fire-heat, but a 
gentle circulation to admit of giving air at night 
and on dull days will be needful a little longer. 
When Muscats have passed the stoning process 
and are safe from scalding, the house may be 
closed early, and the heat may range as high as 
90° for a time to swell the berries. The ventila¬ 
tors must, however, be again opened for the 
night, and then fire-heat will do good service in 
preventing the temperature from falling below 
70°. llamburghs and similar kinds may range 
a few degrees lower—say, 65° to 68° at night; 
but instead of trying to maintain these figures 
in a dull, stagnant atmosphere, it will be much 
the best to warm the pipes, and, with the excep¬ 
tion of the afternoon closing, keep up a con¬ 
stant circulation of air by night and day. When 
newly-planted Vines have grown to the top of 
the house the leaders may be stopped, also the 
laterals, from the base up to the bud to which 
it is intended to prune in the winter; but above 
the pruning bud a free rambling growth may be 
encouraged to cover the whole of the trellis and 
back wall. Keep the inside borders well mulched 
and watered with pure water, and carefully pre¬ 
serve all the main leaves by a liberal use of the 
syringe once or twice a day. Give an abun¬ 
dance of air from the time the temperature 
begins to rise until it declines in the afternoon, 
then close for an hour or two, and re-open the 
ventilators for the night. 

Orchard houses.— By this time the latest 
Peaches and Nectarines will have passed the 
stoning process, and many of the early and mid¬ 
season kinds will have commenced their last 
swelling. As no more fruit will drop, it will be 
well to look each tree over and see that it is not 
carrying more than it is capable of bringing to 
maturity, and at the same time to stop all sub¬ 
laterals to increase the size, and turn aside the 
foliage to insure the perfect colouring of the 
fruit. Keep the trees regularly fed with good 
liquid and guano water. Mulch any that may 
require it with good rotten manure, and syringe 
well with tepid soft water about 6.80 every 
morning and again after the house is closed for 
the day; mulch, and well water with liquid of a 
stimulating character or otherwise, according to 
the strength of the growths and the crop of 
fruit they are carrying. The insects to which 
these trees are now subject are spider and brown 
scale; the first can make little if any progress 
under good culture, and the second must be 
kept in check by brushing with a short, stumpy 
brush before it passes from the wood to the 
leaves. 

Apricots. —The Apricot is a badly treated 
tree, inasmuch as it is frequently burdened with 
such heavy loads of fruit that it is no uncommon 
thing to see them forcing each other off the 
branches. Where, after repeated thinnings, the 
trees are still heavily cropped, the surplus fruits 
should now be taken off and used for tarts ; 
leaders should be nailed in, and laterals pinched 
back, but not too close on south walls; the 
borders may then receive a little more good 
mulching followed by a heavy watering, and 
little more will be needed until the fruit begins 
to ripen. 

Peaches and Nectarines.— When all the 
young growths actually required for forming the 
trees have been nailed or tied in, the final thinning 
of the fruit will follow without delay, as it rarely 
happens that fairly treated trees lose many at 
stoning time. Where timely attention is paid, 
to the selection of the fruit for the crop, pre¬ 
ference should always be given to the finest on 
the upper sides of the shoots, and, taking the 
whole area of the wall covered with foliage, about 
one Peach to every square foot will be found 
quite sufficient for ordinary trees to carry. From 
this time forward the principal work will be 
keeping the foliage clean and free from insects, 
the most troublesome of which are black fly and 
red spider. The first may be destroyed by the 
persistent use of Tobacco water, and the second 
makes but little headway where the borders are 
well mulched and the engine is vigorously applied 
at the close of the day. The proper balance of 
the trees must also be kept in view, otherwise 
foreright and gross shoots, while robbing the 
fruit, will greatly interfere with the extension of 
the leading branches, and as these never require 
stopping where there is wall space to fill, growth* 



July 7, 1S83.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


207 


whidi will be taken out after the fruit is gathered 
may be shortened back to let in light and air, so 
essential to the proper ripening of the wood. 

Strawberries. —Young plants intended for 
: making new plantations should be taken away 

from the parent stools and removed to a cool 
shady situation as soon as the small pots are 
nicely filled with roots. If the ground upon 
which they are to be planted can be cleared of 
tk spring crop, which generally consists of early 
l eas or Potatoes, lose no time in getting it well 
limed, manured, and broken up to a depth of 18 
inches or 2 feet, add another dressing of manure, 
fork it in near the surface, and tread firmly. Set 
j oat the lines 2 feet 6 inches apart, see that the 
halls of the young plants are thoroughly' - wet 
when they are turned out, and place them 15 
inches from each other in the rows. Where new 
heavy soil is plentiful and can be spared, give a 
little, if only a 6-inch potful, to each plant, see 
that the balls are firmly embedded and covered 
to protect them from drought. Give a good 
TOtering to settle the soil, and mulch with a 
little short manure. 

Vegetables. 

Sow at once the latest crop of Peas ; I grow 
William L and Unique, both good early and late 
varieties. I have just finished planting my 
stock of Celery, excepting a row or two for very 
late use. Should the present favourable 
weather last, young Asparagus plantations will 
be very much benefited by being mulched with 
short Utter and having a good soaking of manure 
water. Keep the beds clean by hoeing and 
weeding when any weeds appear; in fact, time 
may now be profitably spent in using the hoe 
amongst all growing crops. We have now got 
into July, an important month for the kitchen 
gardener. Endive and Coleworts should be sown 
at once. That important crop, winter Lettuces 
and Cabbages of all varieties, most be sown 
this month. The land should therefore be got 
ready without delay. Our early Pea land is 
always used for seed purposes, well cultivated, 
but never dug at all. We put on 2 inches of 
bamt refuse, which freshens the soil and 
sweetens it, too. A good space should be 
planted with the useful Cottagers’ Kale, as this 
U i most excellent vegetable, and so hardy that 
i will stand even our severest winters. It is 
much better to have a good breadth of it than 
lo grow several varieties of similar Greens that 
•ire not equal to it in any way. Give the plants 
id inches space in the rows, and allow as mucli j 
between each row. Thin out Vegetable Marrows 
sufficiently, not allowing them to get too much 
crowded, and if the situation be at all exposed, 
iecure the shoots so that they will not be blown 
ibout by the wind. See that they are well 
supplied with water. Wanting this, the plants 
will not bear to the end of the season. Cucumbers 
■ hat have been bearing from the commencement 
f the season and are now falling off a little 
aocld have some of their shoots thinned out, 

I and a little fresh soil added to the surface of 
-he bed. In this the shoots will strike root from 
•he joints, where required, by pegging them 
own. If the plants be clear from insects, thus 
reated they* will again push out growth and 
iruit freely. 

— 

WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 
Bedding plants should now be starting 
iicely into growth, and presenting a somewhat 
my appearance, though of course they cannot 
oe expected to look at their best just yet. 
ifctond particularly to pinching out the points 
-f all strong growing kinds in good time, so as 
keep them as far as possible dwarf and bushy, 
ry few bedding plants need the support of 
ticks, except perhaps Fuchsias and Petunias 
•♦ben used in a back row. These last, however, 
iwnys look more natural to us when allowed to 
■*ul on the ground; the worst of this plan is that 
tiey are so apt to run too far, and interfere with 
4. l i£r plants. On the whole, Petunias are much 
tore satisfactory when allowed a bed to them- 
bes, when, if of a good class or strain, and 
•' perrly attended to, they make a splendid show. 
assies raised from seed sown during the 
will now be fit to plant out. If Pansies 
1 grow at all, this is by far the best yvay to 
'•tain a stock; in a town garden plants from 
-Uings are of no use whatever. The best soil 
’’■* these beautiful plants is a good rich loam, 
a moderate admixture tfHeaf-mould or tery 

Digitized by (jOOQlC 


old rotten stable manure. Plant firmly, and if 
possible give a slightly but not heavily shaded 
position. Put seedling Tansies seem to do as 
well in the full glare of the sun as anywhere. 

The recent showery weather has been very 
favourable for the planting out of Asters, 
Begonias, etc. Tuberous Begonias, by the way, 
should be put out at once, or they will get no 
chance to show their true qualities before 
autumn. 

Chrysanthemums. — Prepare the soil for 
placing Chrysanthemums in their flowering pots 
very shortly, and have everything in readiness 
for a grand potting some time in the early part 
of July. We find Chrysanthemums do quite as 
well, if not better, potted about the middle of 
July, than a month earlier, as is usually 
recommended. The best loam that can be 
obtained, mixed with from half to two-thirds its 
bulk of equal parts of leaf-mould and old rotten 
manure, with a little coarse sand and charcoal, 
forms the best compost for these plants. 12-inch, 
11-inch, and 9£-inch will be the best sizes for 
ordinary decorative plants, though fair blooms 
may be produced in 8^-inch pots with care and 
liberal feeding. Early flowering Chrysanthe¬ 
mums will now be showing bloom, if not actually 
in flower. Once seen, these new French kinds 
are certain to be admired and grown largely. 

B. C. II. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

Campanula Host! —This is one of the 

prettiest of all the Bellflowers, or Hairbells, as 
the Campanulas are commonly called. It grows 
in dense tufts, and for several weeks from the 



Host’s flairbell (Campanula Ilosti). 


middle of June it forms a perfect mass of bright 
purple lilac flowers as large as those in the 
engraving. It may be grown with perfect suc¬ 
cess in an ordinary border, but to see it to the 
best advantage it should be grown in the rock 
garden, where, if it could be planted in a deep 
crevice between two boulders, so that its top 
could fall over the face of the rock, it would 
have a pretty effect. It is rather an uncommon 
sort, but may be obtained from any large hardy 
plant nursery. 

Viola Blue Bell. —No Viola with which 
I am acquainted surpasses this, and but few 
approach it in continuity of blooming and 
effectiveness. It also combines precocity with 
duration of bloom in a remarkable degree, 
suffering but little during those periods of dry 
summer weather which destroys the beauty of 
so many of the bedding kinds. For spring and 
early summer, autumn-planted plants are best, 
but for summer bloom it is better to propagate 
in August, and plant in good rich soil in March 
or April.— Byfleet. 

New Geranium, Madame Sallerai — 

Mr. Crowe, Boleyn Nurseries, Upton, sends us 
specimens of a silver-leaved Geranium which we 
think will be of great value to those who go in 
for bedding out. Plants with three stems 


1J inches long form quite neat bushes. Indeed, 
its habit from a decorative point of view is per¬ 
fection. 

CHOICE HARDY FLOWERS. 

Saponaria ocymoides.— This is a very attrac¬ 
tive plant when it grows freely enough to form 
a mass of bloom a foot or more across. The 
flowers are small, rosy pink, and are so nume¬ 
rously produced as to render large specimens 
very bright and pleasing objects. It does not 
seem to thrive well in cold, heavy soils, but in 
light, loamy, well-drained soils it is quite at 
home. Perhaps it is most so on a rockery where 
there is a sufficient body of earth for the roots 
to find a fair share of moisture in dry summer 
weather—at any rate, the largest and hand¬ 
somest specimens I have ever seen were thus 
situated. In any case, drainage is a most im¬ 
portant item in the successful culture of this 
little hardy flower, and where the natural staple 
is not sufficiently porous to obviate all danger 
of stagnant moisture at the roots, I would 
advise that plenty of river sand and leaf-mould, 
or old potting soil, be liberally added thereto, 
so as to ensure at all times a free-rooting 
medium. 

iETHIONEMA GRANDIFLORA. —Although but 
little grown, this is a most attractive plant. The 
flowers are produced in spikes, are rosy pink, 
being thrown up well above the neat dwarf 
foliage. It is quite a little gem amongst hardy 
flowers, and deserves a place in every collection. 
The premarks as to soil and situation which were 
mad e on the Saponaria apply to this plant; the 
two thrive well in company. 

Geum COCCINEUM plenum.— No garden, how¬ 
ever small, should be without this fine hardy 
flower. It is far and away the most brilliant 
hardy plant in cultivation, almost, indeed, quite 
equalling many of the brightest bedding Gera¬ 
niums. Vigour, hardiness, effectiveness, and 
duration of bloom are united in this Geum to 
the extent of rendering it one of our most pre¬ 
cious garden flowers, and those who may have 
no convenience for the rearing and wintering of 
tender bedders will find it an excellent substi¬ 
tute. It should have rich, free soil, so that it 
does not become exhausted in hot, dry weather, 
and then it will continue in bloom all through 
the season. 

Anemone apennina.— Considering that this 
wind flower is of exceptional beauty, and is of 
exceedingly easy culture, one might almost say 
that it needs no cultural care. There is cause for 
surprise that it should not be generally grown. 
As a fact, one seldom sees it outside of those 
gardens where hardy flowers are made a speci¬ 
ality of, and the major portion of small growers 
do not appear to know anything of it. It is a 
dwarf growing plant, not exceeding 8 inches in 
height, with dark, much-divided foliage, the 
numerous lovely blue flowers being borne well 
above it. In some places in this country it has 
become naturalised, and where the common wood 
Anemone thrives, this little apennine kind will 
luxuriate; in fact, the two form a charming asso¬ 
ciation. In shrubbery borders in woods where 
the soil is free, this pretty little hardy flower 
may be established, and will give no further 
trouble, extending and increasing in beauty 
from year to year. It does not like a hard, re¬ 
tentive soil, and where such forms the natural 
staple, some leaf-mould, sand, or something of a 
like nature should be added to it. I would 
advise all who may never have grown this Ane¬ 
mone to procure it; plant it in some position 
where it may remain undisturbed, and they will 
assuredly be gratified with the charming effect 
it produces when well established and in the 
form of large spreading masses. 

Platycodon grandiflorum, sometimes 
oalled Campanula grandiflora, is a handsome 
plant, bearing large, deep blue, well-shaped 
flowers, loosely borne on stems from 1 foot to 
18 inches high, according to the luxuriance of 
the specimen. Well grown, it is one of the 
finest-known hardy flowers, but it is only right 
that I should warn your readers who may not 
have had any experience in its culture that it 
is rather fastidious as regards soil and situation, 
being apt to die away during the winter, and 
often growing so weakly as to render it of but 
little decorative value. The roots are fleshy, and 
in cold moisture-holding soils they are apt to 
decay, and very frequently the crown rots. In 
sandy, well-drained soils it holds its own and in- 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


208 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[July 7, 1883. 


creases yearly in strength and yields a rich reward 
of beauty with a minimum of care. Bodistinct and 
beautiful is this plant, however, that it is worthy 
of some extra pains to preserve it in health and 
vigour. The most important point is the pre¬ 
paration of the soil before planting, adding, 
where necessary, plenty of lightening material, 
and setting the plants in spriog, so that they get 
well established by winter. Then about the be¬ 
ginning of November put some coal ashes or 
Cocoa-fibre 2 inches or 3 inches thick, and in 
the form of a mound over the crown and roots, 
which will guard them against superfluous mois¬ 
ture, but the best safeguard is a hand-light or a 
large flower pot. 

Lychnis Viscabia splendens fl.-pl.— 
Here we have an old inhabitant of our gardens 
once much cherished, now but little grown, but 
which few plants, hardy or tender, can surpass 
in beauty. The foliage forms a dense cushion, 
from whence arise the flower spikes, which are 
thickly set with large double flowers, of a soft 
rosy pink. In the case of large specimens, which 
bear a couple of dozen spikes of bloom, the 
effect produced is quite charming, and I always 
think that, supposing this plant were of different 
growth, no pains would be too great to ensure its 
well being. If it demanded the same attention 
and expenditure as an Orchid, it would be very 
highly prized ; for, unfortunately, flowers with 
many seem to be valued as much for the trouble 
they give as for their intrinsic merit In the 
present instance we have a plant of great worth, 
and which anyone, even the most inexperienced 
in flower culture, may grow to perfection, and 
vet which has in a great measure dropped out 
of cultivation, a fact which is not greatly to our 
credit. Let us hope that the old double clammy 
Lychnis may once again take the place it is en¬ 
titled to, for assuredly few fairer flowers exist. 
Hy the way, do any of your readers grow the 
white variety. It seems to be rare. I have not 
seen it for years. 

Polygonum vaccinifolium.— This is a neat- 
habited evergreen of trailing growth, and which 
produces numerous spikes of pink flowers from 
.July till late in autumn. It loves a warm expo¬ 
sure, and a light, well-drained soil, with, if 
possible, some shelter from spring frosts, 
as although quite hardy the foliage is apt 
to be browned, and the plant gets a check 
which injuriously affects its blooming powers. 
On rockwork this Polygonum is quite at home, 
and there best displays its beauty. It is, when 
thriving, a bright and attractive plant, and one 
of the best of hardy flowers in cultivation at the 
present time. 

Genista prosthata deserves a word of 
praise, it. is so bright and cheerful-looking, and, 
withal, of such a wiry, enduring nature as to be 
quite at home in the most arid soils and under 
the fiercest glare of a summer sun. It should 
certainly be made note of by those who may 
have such soils to deal with, or sunburnt banks 
to embellish. In its power to resist with undim¬ 
med beauty drought and an arid atmosphere, it 
quite equals its near relative, the common Broom. 
It does not exceed a few inches in height, and is 
smothered in summer with the gayest of yellow 
flowers. It is a wonderfully neat-looking little 
evergreen. 

Saxifraga Wallacei. — This, though of 
dwarfy proportions, is one of the showiest of a 
Urge and important family. The foliage carpets 
the soil, and the pure white flowers are so nume¬ 
rously produced as to form, in the case of estab¬ 
lished plants, a sheet of bloom. Like the 
Kaxifragas generally, it only thrives where the 
soil is free and the drainage good, succeeding 
best on a rockery where there is a good body of 
soil for the roots to strike down into, so that it 
does not too much feel the influence of periods 
of hot, dry weather. In sandy or free alluvial 
soils this little Saxifrage will suoceed on the 
level, but in the case of heavy soils it should be 
elevated somewhat above the surface. An eleva¬ 
tion of a few inches is quite enough to secure 
the welfare of plants of this description. 

Onosm A TAUBICA.—This is rather a rare plant 
in cultivation, and is supposed to need somewhat 
peculiar conditions to induce it to thrive. From 
what I have observed, however, I am enabled to 
assert that, given a free, well-drained soil, it will 
grow freely enough. It is very distinct, growing 
about nine inches high, with rather rough, hairy 
leaves, the flowers, which are tubular, being set 
in a crest which WrBs down and ijn towards the 


stem. They are of a rich yellow, and deliciously 
and powerfully fragrant. This Onosma is cer¬ 
tainly worthy of much care. J. C. 

Byfleet. 

The Golden Creeping Jenny.— This is 
a yellow-leaved plant, obtained from Lysimachia 
Nummnlaria, which grows wild in British mea¬ 
dows ; hence it may justly be classed as a weed, 
but it is also an excellent plant for moist and 
shady places in the rock garden, and for carpet¬ 
ing the ground beneath the taller plants, the 
appearance of which is improved by an under¬ 
growth of deep golden yellow, a colour which 
this plant retains throughout the season. We 
have used it for edgiDgs and groundwork in the 
open flower garden, but, being a shade-loving 
plant, it gets rusty in bright, sunny weather, and 
is therefore not to be relied upon for such 
positions—at least, not so far south as Hamp¬ 
shire ; northwards it would no doubt prove as 
useful for this purpose as it does here for under¬ 
growth and rockwork. It is readily propagated 
by division at any season of the year. It is 
called Lysimachia Nnmmularia aurea. 

9782.— Plants for north border.— The 
north side of a tarred close fence is a very un¬ 
natural place for plants, and one in which few 
will do well. Unless it is covered with creepers 
or shrubs, such a fence becomes hot even in 
sunny, cold days in March, and the plants behind 
it are exposed to a growing temperature and to 
piercing cold winds at the 6ame time. Such a 
fence has no business in a garden, and the best 
thing to do with it is to have it removed, and 
one of those pretty close fences, made of thin 
strips of Oak overlapping at the edges, substi¬ 
tuted. The common English Ivy (Hedera helix) 
soon covers that kind of fence, which should on 
no account be painted or tarred. Other creepers 
grow equally well on it. These fences being 
made of overlapping strips of wood allow the air 
to sift through them, so that the ground on the 
north side does not get into an unhealthy state. 
The border should be raised a little if the cause 
of the dampness is an undrained soil ; but if it is 
caused by a heavy, retentive soil, the soil should 
be lightened by addiDg road-scrapings, charred 
refuse, and similar material. None of the plants 
named are suitable for such a position. Prim¬ 
roses, Polyanthuses, and Auriculas require a 
position which is dry in winter, but moist and 
shaded in summer; the last named like a breezy 
spot. Th* best things to plant are the double 
varieties of the common Celandine (Ficaria 
ranunculoides fl.-pl.) and the finer varieties of 
the common Bquill or Wood Hyacinth; there are 
white, pink, and rose-coloured kinds. Vinca 
major and V. m. elegantissima, and Vinca minor, 
both blue, white, and gold-edged; these are 
trailing evergreen creepers. Spirica aruncus, 
Spirica venusta, Spinea filipendula fl.-pl., and 
Spiraea palmata. Towards the front of the 
border plant Mimulus of sorts, Saxifraga 
granulata fl.-pl., London Pride, and a few 
tufts of Tradescantia virginica. Spaces should 
be left amongst these for a few annuals for 
summer flowering and a few spring sown Pansies. 
If the soil is lightened sufficiently and plenty of 
leaf-mould added, Ferns will do well, and the 
little Wood Anemone should be planted thickly 
amongst them ; it seems to enjoy their society, 
and flowers before they begin to grow.—J. D. 

9902.— Lilies dying. — The white garden 
lily, Lilium candidum, as a rule, thrives so well 
in almost any garden soil, that it is not easy to 
give a reason for the plants dying away after 
transplanting, except on the assumption that 
the manure with which the soil has been dressed 
is full of grubs or some destructive pests. By 
lifting the roots and examining them, when they 
show signs of decaying, it ought not to be diffi¬ 
cult to trace the cause, and if it were found that 
they were eaten by grubs, or wireworms, then 
these pests must be sought for and destroyed.— 
A. 

9891. — Aponogeton dlstacshyon. — 
This may either be grown in the open air in a 
pond or tank, or under glass. It thrives well 
planted out in a tub in loamy soil, but in any 
case should enjoy the full force of the sun, as it 
evidently likes much warmth and light when 
growing. If placed in an airy glasshouse, the 
evaporation will be great enough to necessitate 
the pouring in of a can of water every week, 
which will suffice to keep it healthy. Whether 
grown in pots or planted out, the crown of the 


plants should not be more than 1 foot under water. 
If “ M. R.” has any difficulty in procuring plants 
and will communicate with me, I can put him in 
the way of getting some.—J. CoRNHlLL,2fy/2«t, 
Surrey. 

9861.— Anemone coronaria from seed. 

—Anemone coronaria should be sown very thinly 
in the prepared bed where the plants are to re¬ 
main ; they dislike disturbance. When 60 wn in 
a box they must be allowed to remain where they 
are until the leaves turn yellow naturally, when 
the tiny tubers can be planted out 3 inches deep 
in well prepared soil in a half-shady place. The 
bed should be well dressed with old hotbed manure 
rotted to powder, or with plenty of powdery 
leaf-mould, and the soil should be friable and 
fine, but not such as will readily dry up. Keep 
the leaves of the seedlings green as long as fresh 
leaves spring, and then allow them to turn yellow 
naturally, Dot from drought.—J. D. 

9895.— Protecting Auriculas— I have 
found the best plan to preserve these during 
winter is to take some rather rough ashes and 
sprinkle them underneath the plants. By this 
mode of treatment the leaves are kept in a dry 
state, and dampness, which is the chief cause of 
failure, is entirely avoided.— Bavenswoeth. 

9801,—Tulips andAurloulas.—Tulips should not 
be moved until the leaves begin to turn yellow, when they 
con be lifted with all the earth attached to the roots, 
and laid in a shady place to ripen. Auriculae can be 
moved now.—J. D. 

White Pink Mrs. Slnklns.—Among the hardy 
flowers sent us by Mr. Maries, of Lytham, laat week, was 
this rink in a good Btate. It is a strong, bold, white 
flower, excellent in the cut state. 


FLOWERS OF JULY. 

To many readers we must have seemed altoget her 
lacking in loyalty to Ihe Queen of Flowers, 
when last month we refrained from including 
the beautiful Rose amongst the flowers of June. 
But whilst Roses are plentiful in June, they are 
far more so in July, and they are specially 
abundant in that month this year, because the 
Rose season—though, thanks to suitable weather, 
is a grand one—it is jet a late one. But our 
floral artist has, alas, omitted the queen of 
floral beauty from his illustration, he having, 
perhaps, more of the Lily than the Rose on the 
brain, and he is so touched in good company. 
But the Rose is at once the most beautiful 
flower of the year, as well as of the month, and the 
most popular, for it is everybody’s. There is the 
Dog Rose of the hedgerows, so simple and yet 
so lovely; and there is the sweet pink blooms 
of the Rrier, rich in perfume; the massive 
clusters of the Noisettes, the delicate sweetness 
of the Teas, the rich and gorgeous hues of the 
Perpetuals, and the singular beauty in bud of 
the Mosses—all grown alike in cottage garden 
and in the pleasure grounds of the rich. So truly 
national and indeed universally cultured is the 
Rose, we have exhibitions specially devoted 
to its worship, and to these devotees flock 
in thousands to pay their devoirs to our national 
flower. A great Rose show is a feast of flowers, 
such as well may make us say that J uly is queen 
of floral months, with the Rose for her empress. 
But there are Lilies in our picture, beautiful 
white and spotted forms of the old lancifolium 
section, and lovely members are they of a grand 
floral family. Have we not blooming nobly in 
July the superb auratum, the pure white 
eximiutn, the charming lancifolium, the huge 
giganteum, the beautiful canadense, Fortunei, 
and many others ? And all, whether under glass 
and grown in pots, or out in the open border, arc 
noble garden ornaments. Peeping np on the 
top of our picture are Marguerites perchance,but 
these cultured in pots are flowers of all the year 
round, if in the winter kept in heat. Outdoors 
they make fine clumps and masses, and furnish 
an abundance of bloom. There are several 
white kinds, and the pale yellow is a lovely 
flower. Still, even these real French Daisies 
are not so much more beautiful than are our 
English Marguerites of the fields, the Ox-eye 
Daisy of our own clime. This is so charming 
now in fields and hedgerows that we marvel it is 
not grown as a garden plant. But the other day 
we saw in the Isle of Wight such masses of these 
flowers, and so wondrously fine, as to excel all 
the Paris Daisies we have yet seen. Both this 
wild white form and the yellow Chrysanthemum 
segetum are as well worth places in gardens as 
are nine-tenths of our hardy plants. Rut July is 
perhaps, more than any other month, the season of 



Juit 7, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


209 



bailing flowers. What masses of colour do the 
starlet, pink, and other hued Pelargoniums give us, 
udotet effective are masses of Petunias in such 
vocdroos variety of colour and form, blooming, 
too, with such persevering perpetuity for the 
funner. There are, too, charming Verbenas 
and Heliotropes, and how lovely, both under 
pia m and on warm border, are the scarlet, pink, 
»ad richly-hoed Begonias. Then, too, indoors, 
there sre those finely-formed blooms of the 
Gloxinia, one of the most pleasing of summer 
pttnhoiue plants. 

Fachrias take high rank as summer flowers, 
ind many of them should be found in every 
prd«L We admire a finely-grown plant in a 
pot that from crown to base is covered with 
□triads of pendant blooms; but a huge bush or 
hedge of Fuchsias, such as the old Ricartoni or 
giobosa,or perchance the small-flowered coccinea, 
growing in the open garden in some seaside 
locality, evokes a feeling 
almost of enthusiasm. 

>och plants we have 
«en here and there, and 
most say that no shrub 
or plant which the sum¬ 
mer gives us—nay, not 
eren the Rose itself— 
ran excel such noble 
floral specimens for ele¬ 
gance, richness, and 
heaoty. How beautiful 
this month also are the 
late-blooming members 
of the Clematis family. 

A big mass of Jack- 
manni can hardly be 
excelled, but there are 
-cores of kinds, and 
•• dried in colour, that 
ommaod admiration 
ilso. Even such humble 
limbers as Nasturtiums 
ire not without their 
merits, whilst they are 
-onderfolly floriferous ; 
tad the Canary Creeper, 
mixed with many bued 
limbing Convolvuluses, 

* a right for the gods. 

•or sixpence and a few 

ranches of spray, a mass 
f beauty may be ob¬ 
tained that even guinea 
'duds might look upon 
od envy. Sweet and 
erlasting Peas also 
om with exceeding 
eaaty in July. In the 
ct case, the produce of 
he ap packet sown in 
ill clumps or in a row 
i supported by sticks, 

-.ts a wondrous lot 
: delicately-perfumed 
wers, and all as charm- 
:j as they are sweet. 

• ith the perennial kind, 

"at ran be more effec- 
re trained up by the 
rch trellis, or about 

eg stem of an old tree. 

An a bold, free-flower- 

mass of the Ever- 


Marigolds (French and African), the very varied 
family of Chrysanthemums, some 60 double, others 
so single, and so variedly coloured. Neither 
must be omitted the Cyanus family; also Go- 
detins, Clarkias, Gaillardias, E^cbscholtzias, in 
gold, cream, and rose colours; (Enotheras, Lark¬ 
spurs, Puppies—indeed the list is an endless one 
that includes annuals alone flowering in July. 
It is the season of flowers, the summer’s me¬ 
ridian, and we may well cause our gardens to 
share in the great floral carnival. A. D. 

THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Continued from page 192.) 


Pinks 

Are of smaller growth than Carnations, and will 
bear more hardship from stress of weather. 
Consequently, there is no occasion to winter 
them in frames ; indeed, 
the best marked flowers 
are from autumn-planted 
beds. The preparation 
of the beds is impor¬ 
tant, fresh turfy loam, 
if prize flowers are 
wanted, is very desira¬ 
ble. October is the best 
month to plant finally 
in the beds, and they 
should not be crowded; 
from 10 inches to 12 
inches apart each way 
will not bo too much 
where a lot of flowers 
are required when 
autumn-planting is 
adopted. Of course, 
thousands of Pinks are 
planted in February, 
and they do fairly well, 
but to obtain flowers of 
the best quality, perfect 
in lacing, there must be 
no undue excitement of 
any kind, but the plants 
must grow steadily on 
from the first, and this 
condition is more easily 
secured when planted 
in antumn. Thinning of 
the flowers buds will be 
necessary to obtain 
flowers of extra size 
and beauty. Shading, 
mulching, and water¬ 
ing will also be re¬ 
quired in dry weather. 
The young wood will 
be fit for cuttiugs or 
pipings early in July, 
and it is as well to 
begin as soon as the 
earliest shoots are ready. 
Any kind of glass frame 
will do for striking the 
pipings or cuttings 
under, and they should 
occupy a shady place. 
Old-fashioned florists 
were partial to hand- 
lights for this work, and 
they were usually placed 
in rows on the shady side 
of a fence. 

The soil was excavated about 8 inches deep, 
and a layer of Rhubarb leaves placed on the 
bottom; the cavity was then filled up with a light 
sandy compost, pressing down moderately firm, 
watered with a fine-rosed pot, and the pipings 
pressed Into the moist soil. The layer of Rhu¬ 
barb leaves was intended to hold up the mohture, 
so that no water was required beyond the very 
light dewings over the foliage which were always 
given on very bright days. But the propagation 
of Pinks is easy and simple enough; I have seen 
thousands of them struck since those early days 
in a frame with no preparation beyond a layer 
of sandy soil in the bottom. All through tho 
season, from July till September, of course 
the early-struck plants are the best; and with 
the September cuttings more time is required in 
the cutting bed ; indeed, the late cuttings, when 
the wood is getting firm, should remain in the 
bed all the winter, and nbfc be planted out till 
March. Such plants will not produce such 
perfectly-laced flowers, but they bloom later 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


we have old plants of hardy border Pentstemons 
getting into bloom, and these will greatly help 
to make J uly gay. Not least amongst our hardy 
border plants are the perennial Phloxes; how 
beautiful they are, and what fine heads of bloom 
they carry ! Old plants will soon be in full 
bloom, and young ones raised by striking cut¬ 
tings in the spring will carry the blooming period 
late into the year. All the Delphiniums are 
more or less, but chiefly more, gay and in rich 
bloom in July. The grand formosum, with its 
1 wondrous spikes of deep blue flowers, and lots 
! of other named kinds, all varying in shades of 
blue, are singularly lovely, and should be found 
! in all large gardens. We had, too, almost 
overlooked the dear old Sweet William, one of 
| the most favoured and popular of garden 
flowers. How beautiful are they throughout 
; July, and those who have a really fine strain, 
that shows the finest forms and richest colours 


>tin* Pea (Lathy rus 
o folios) ? 

Then we have many members of the Hairbell 
anily in bloom in July, the pretty Campanulas. 
ere is the pillar-like pyramidalis, the charming 
able white urticnefolia, the dwarf white alpina, 

» *>rect and fine-flowered turbinata, and scores 
•friers, not omitting the singularly beautiful 
I nns of Media or the Canterbury Bell, one of 

1 jt most effective and easily raised of all bien- 

Aye, and we may not omit the Foxglove, 
nch, so charming in the hedgerows, is a grand 

2 -den flower, because garden kinds are so finely 
'ted, so large, and produce such wonderful 

kes of flowers. 

•••lapdragons are beautiful, too. We saw these 
!• vjo other day in grand bloom in Portsmouth 
•cyard, so that those residing near the sea 
who have not grown Antirrhinums may 
-r be encouraged to do so. A pinch of Snap- 
seed will give enough plants to decorate 
i aw ~e garden, and very varied and beautiful 
rte are; so let everyone bar, amongst tljsir 
V dowers plenty of’Snap^ragyis\ T;^nV|)£> 


Flower* of July. 

of tho day, may have in a bed of Sweet Williams 
6uch a show of flowers as princes might envy, 
and all, too, by sowing a packet of seed in May, 
and dibbling out the plants into some good soil 
in September. Even now we have yet made no 
mention of the other members of the Dianthus 
family, the beautiful annual and biennial 
Chinese and Indian Pinks, so gorgeous in their 
colourings, and so curious in form of flower; 
the sweet, favourite Carnations, show and clove, 
flaked and self, how charming are they, and how 
easily grown, if we do not indulge in kinds that 
are costly I And not least of the family are the 
Pinks, I he earlier forms of which are getting 
past, but many beautiful kinds are left to give 
life and beauty to the month of Jaly. Truly the 
list of July hardy flowers is an endless one, and 
it is easier to omit mention of myriads worthy 
of notice than to record them. But any mention 
of July flowers would be very incomplete that 
did not include annual Stocks, now so rich in 
perfume and so lovely; also the annual 


J 











210 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[July 7, 1883, 


than those struck early—form a succession in 
fact, and for that reason, as Pinks are so beau¬ 
tiful for cutting, I like a few late cuttings. 

Pinks may be layered the same as Carnations 
are, but it is hardly worth while when they 
strike so freely and make such good plants from 
cuttings. The remarks I made upon saving 
seeds from Carnations are equally applicable to 
Picotecs and Pinks, and the treatment of the 
young plants is the same in all respects. For 
producing cut flowers the perpetual Carnations 
are very valuable; planted out in the open air, 
in warm, sheltered borders, they bloom well up 
into the autumn, and quite veil those plants 
which are kept in pots, especially for the green¬ 
house. Some cultivators plant out their whole 
stock in beds, because they do better so treated, 
and lift them and place them in pots towards 
the end of September. 

Forcing .—When properly prepared, Pinks sub¬ 
mit readily to forcing ; the cuttings should be 
struck early from plants which have been forced. 
They should be planted out when large enough, 
and be lifted in September; they will not, of 
course, bear a strong heat, but in a light position 
in the greenhouse they will flower early enough 
to be exceedingly useful; or. if necessary, after 
they have been in the greenhouse a few weeks, 
with the advancing light of the new year they 
will stand an increase of temperature. The 
annexed list are good standard varieties, which 
may be purchased at a reasonable price. 

Varieties op Carnations. 

Scarlet Bizarres. — Achilles, Dreadnought, 
Duke of Grafton, Garibaldi, George, Lord Derby, 
and Prince of Wales. 

Crimson Bizarre*. — Alderman, Chairman, 
Eccentric Jack, Isaac Wilkinson, Sybil, Laura 
Hinchinbrooke, W. Henfield, Esq. 

Purple Flakes. —Ada, Miss Miles, Mayor of 
Nottingham, Lord Sandwich, Squire Trevv. 

Bose Flakes .—James Merry weather, Lady 
Florence, Lady Jane Repton, Lady Mandeville, 
Miss West, Mr. Woodruffe, Mrs. Hurst, Pallida, 
Rosabel, Rose of Stapleford. 

Scarlet Flakes. —Adrian, Douglass, Guy Man- 
nering, James Cheetliam, Splendour, Superb. 

Varieties op Picotees. 

Bed edged .—Ada Mary, J. B. Bryant, Delicata, 
Forester, Duchess of Bedford, Lizzie, Minnie, 
Mrs. BrowD, Mrs. Ormsby, Wm. Summers. 

Purple edged. — Edmund Papworth, Lady 
Elcho, Mary, Lady Sandwich, Mrs. Little, Mrs. 
Summers, Robin Ilood. 


been divided, nnder the names of decussata and 
suffruticosa, the former is the most useful, being 
more robust in habit, and the blooming period 
beiDg of longer duration. Still, where there is 
space, both species should be grown, as the 
suffruticosa section, besides the advantages of 
early flowering, are sweet scented, and are chaste 
and delicate in colour. An open situation, good, 
rather strong soil liberally manured, and frequent 
renewal either by cutting or division of the roots 
in spring, are among the chief essentials to their 
successful culture. Plenty of water when coming 
into flower and during the blossoming period are 
requisite. If we want spikes for exhibition, 
mulchings, too, of manure are well. If more 
spikes show than are required, they should be 
thinned early, removing the weakest. For 
merely decorative purposes in the border, more 
stems may be left than would be desirable if we 
want fine individual spikes. The Phloxes are so 
beautiful and hardy, and serve so many pur¬ 
poses, that everyone should grow at least a dozen 
varieties. They should be divided and trans¬ 
planted every three years at least. New varieties 
may be increased by cuttings at any time in a 
shady border. They also strike as easy as Ver¬ 
benas in spring in a hotbed. 

Varieties. 

Suffruticosa (early flowering). —Alba magna, 
white; Allan McLean, rosy purple; Beauty, 
rosy lilac, crimson eye; Circle, white, crimson 
eye; Conqueror, white, scarlet eye; Empress, 
white ; Harrison’s Seedling, white, shaded centre; 
Mauve Queen, King of Purples, Mdlle. Ren- 
datler, rose petal with white stripe on each; Mrs. 
Campbell, white, rose eye; The Shah, rosy pur¬ 
ple ; Philip Pollock, light rose. 

Decussata (late flowering). —Admiration,red, 
crimson eye ; Boule de Feu, salmon, crimson eye; 
Brilliant, rose; Comtesse de Castries, white, 
scarlet eye; Countess of Breadalbane, crimson; 
Coccinea, scarlet; Dr. La Croix, rosy purple ; 
David Syme, white, magenta eye; Duchess of 
Sutherland, white ; Edith, white, carmine eye; 
Gladstone, rosy lake; John Forbes, pink, crimson 
eye ; Jean d'Arc, white; Liervalli, rose, striped 
white; Madame de Stael, pink, carmine eye; 
Moonlight, rose; Mons. Van Houtte, crimson, 
dark eye; Pericles, salmon-red, carmine eye; 
Madame Peulet, white, crimson, eye; Princess 
of Wales, rose, carmine eye; Roi des Roses, rosy 
salmon; Splendour, crimson, purple eye; Virgo 
Marie, white ; William Veitch, white, crimson 
eye; Zingari, scarlet, salmon eye. 

Pentstemons. 


Bose and scarlet edged .—Beauty of Plums lead, 
Dolly Varden, Edith Dombrain, Mrs. Fordham, 
Rev. II. Mathews. 

Yellow ground .—Prince of Orange. 

Varieties op Pinks. 

Attraction, Arabella, Beauty of Bath, Bertram, 
Brilliant, Charles Turner, Criterion, Device, 
Donald Me Bean, Endora, Emily, Excelsior, 
Fanny, John Bull, Lady Clifford, Marian, 
Modesty, Mrs. Hobbes, Minnie, Oliver Cromwell, 
Prince Imperial, Ninon, Wm. Paul, Victory. 

Border Carnations, Picotees, and 
Pinks. 

These are a very useful class for producing 
cut flowers. Of late years the demand has led 
to more attention being given to them, with a 
consequent increase in their numbers. I append 
a short selection: Acme, Ariadne, Bijou, Cor¬ 
sair, Buttercup, Duchess, Fancy Queen, Fireman 
Ingoldsby, Lucretia, Newmarket, Nigger, Black 
Knight, Duke of Wellington, Flag of Truce, 
Ghost, Napoleon III., Purity, Royal Scarlet, 
Souvenir de la Malmaison, Old Crimson Clove, 
Old Purple Clove, Old White Clove. 

Border Pinks. —Ascot, Anne Boleyn, Bright¬ 
ness, Fimbriata alba major, Lord Lyons, Mrs. 
Moore, Newmarket, White Perpetual. 

Mule Pinks .—Hybridus flore-pleno : Multiflora 
rosea, Marie Pares, Napoleon III., Striatiflorus, 
Tom Thumb. The Mule Pinks are useful border 
plants. 

The Phlox. 

The improvement which has taken place in 
this family during the last twenty-five years has 
been immense ; in fact, it is difficult to say what 
now remains to be done in the way of advance¬ 
ment., though the real florist does not admit the 
word “ finality ” into his vocabulary. Of the two 
sections into wl^6FT.he herbs^^ijs IJiloxes have 


A vast improvement has taken place in this 
family during the last twenty years. Rather 
more than thirty-five years ago P. gentianoides 
the parent of the present race, was thought much 
of as a bedding plant. Then about 1818 came 
the white variety, P. g. alba, and about the same 
time was brought out a rose-coloured variety, 
with a white throat, called P. g. MacEwani, but 
it is only within the last twenty-five years that 
the impetus was given which has made the Pent- 
stemons the handsome family they now are. 
They are easily raised from seeds, and the seed¬ 
lings all possess a decorative value. They are 
everybody’s flowers, for, though scarcely hardy 
enough to stand a severe winter, yet a small 
amount of protection saves them. 

Cuttings root freely at any season when growth 
is in progress and young side shoots can be 
obtained. In the spring they may be placed in 
the hotbed with other soft things, but in summer 
and autumn they will root under a hand-light, 
or in a cold frame, and cuttings or seedlings 
raised in spring flower profusely the same 
season. I saw in a friend’s gatden last autumn 
a large border of seedling Pentstemons, which 
had been planted merely for their decorative 
value; but though raised in the ordinary way 
from purchased seeds, the mass contained 
many pretty varieties, such as would have been 
selected and named a few years ago. Those 
who are tired of the glare of the Pelargonium 
will appreciate the softer tints and the greater 
variety of the Pentstemon, and the broken 
surface of the mass comes as a great 
relief after a formal bed arranged with 
mathematical precision. Everybody should 
grow some of them, and should save seeds from 
the best flowers. But for the purpose of per¬ 
petuating any particular variety cuttings alone 
must be employed, as seedlings break off in all 
I directions from their parents. If the cuttings 


are dibbled thinly in a cold frame, or under 
handlights or cloches in August, and are left 
under the protection of the glass till April and 
then planted out in the beds, they do not give 
much trouble, and will be sure to succeed under 
ordinary treatment, as they are not particular 
about soil or situation. Pinching once or twice 
after planting, though it delays the flowering for 
a short time, adds immensely to the strength of 
the plants, and tends to prolong the flowering 
period till late in the autumn. 1 sometimes peg 
the plants down after they are established in the 
beds, and this causes a lot of strong shoots to 
spring up from the bottom which flower later on. 

In mild winters old plants in the beds and bor¬ 
ders will pass safely through the winter, and if 
in spring they are pruned back, strong bushy 
plants are formed; but to keep up a good 
collection of named varieties, cuttings must 
be taken annually, as although fairly hardy, 
they cannot always be relied on to live through 
the winter—at least I often lose old plants in 
sharp winters when left unsheltered. A little 
old tan or leaf-mould about the collar, and, after 
the frost has set in, a handful of dry Fern placed 
over each plant, will generally save them, but 
young plants are most reliable. The spikes of 
tube-shaped flowers are useful for cutting, and 
have a nice effect in a vase, as they silence the 
dumpiness of the flat flowers, and cutting 
improves the plants by causing successional, 
spikes to spring up. Pentstemons are valuable 

Pot plants for aut umn in a cool conservatory 
and their culture will yield as good a return for 
the trouble bestowed as anything I know, either 
as bed or border plants, or in pots. Though 
lists of plants which are progressing rapidly 
have no permanent value, I give below the 
names of a few good varieties: Alice DeaD, 
white, shaded rose; Andrew Hunter, rosy 
salmon; Avoca, rose, white throat: Bateman 
Brown, pink, white throat; Blue Boy, blue, 
shaded purple; Countess of Eglington, bright 
rose; Cuthbert, red, throat pencilled carmine; 
Don Juan, rosy lilac, white throat; Duke of 
Sutherland, scarlet, white throat; E. S. Dodwell, 
purple, suffused white; Fanny Archer, plum, 
pencilled throat; Frank Miles, plum-purple, *** 
throat blotched with brown; Grace Darling, U 
rosy pink, white throat; Harold, magenta, white 
throat; John Gray, rosy scarlet; John Douglas, t 
violet, tinted purple; Kate Nickleby, pink, ^ 
white throat; Miss Sutherland, white, edged 
with pink; Mrs. Wills, claret-crimson; Miss 
Linley, white ; Mrs. Lee, rosy pink ; Mr. Howe, 
scarlet; Orion, magenta ; Reformer, purple ; 
Stanstead Rival, scarlet, white throat; Virginal®, 
pure white, tipped pink; Wm. Ashford, magenta- 
red ; Trojan, scarlet. 

Fentstemons, like nearly all hardy plants, 
when grown under glass through the winter, 
will produce a lot of young soft shoots, which 
strike in the hotbed with the bedding plants in 
February or INI arch, and this is a good way of 
increasing new or choice varieties. 

The Antirrhinum (Snapdragon). 

Like the Pentstemon, the Antirrhinum or 
Snapdragon should be in every garden, and the 
present race, which have undergone the atten¬ 
tions of the florist, are immeasurably superior to 
anything we possessed years ago in old- 
fashioned gardens. The colours are so various, 
and the plants flower so freely; in short, they are 
indispensable to those whose means are limited, 
and yet like to see their borders gay and bright 
all the summer and well up into the autumn ; or 
if the seeds are cut off, the Antirrhinum never 
seems to become exhausted, crop after crop of 
blossoms being thrown off with great rapidity. 
It is nice to have a good collection of choice 
named sorts, but it is by no means necessary', 
for the seedlings are good enough for those who 
only w’ant a pretty garden, and a good collection 
requires time and talent to keep together and tc 
perpetuate, by frequently taking cutt.ing-s, a> 
unless this be done the old plants have a habile 
of going off in the winter, not because they ar* 
not hardy enough to stand a considerable 
amount of cold, but perhaps exhaustion after : 
long blooming season may have something* t. 
do with it. At any rate a good named collec 
tion requires more care than seedlings, and thos 
who only require a bright bed or border will sen 
seed. 

Cuttings may be taken any time in sum me 
when young shoots can be obtained, and the 




July 7 , 1883 .] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


211 


Kite readily under handlighte in a shady cor- 
aer or in pots in n close frame in sandy soil. 

S min} sieii.— The seeds may either be sown 
fa August in the open border, or in spring under 
gas. In the former case they may remain in 
the seed bed till April, and then be transplanted 
lo their blooming quarters. In the latter alter- 
tBiive, the little plants should be pricked oil 
when large enough, and be planted out in April 
or .May. There are two distinct races—one 
grows tail on good soil—from 2 feet to 3 feet 
high, and the other, the Tom Thumb section, 
fa only a few inches high. Though both are 
beautiful for ordinary purposes in the garden, 
and for the production of large quantities of 
brijrhfacolonred flowers for cutting, the tall 
section is the most useful. The Antirrhinum 
might be utilised for covering any banks in the 
rid garden, or for rapidly clothing with beauty 
waste corners anywhere, either by scattering 
reeds over the site in August, or sowiug the seeds 
elsewhere then and transplanting in spring. 
Tdiowing a precedent I set in the case of the 
lentstemon varieties, I give a list of a few 
goal varieties :—Alba perfecta, white and rose; 
Admiral, orange and scarlet; lilanche, white, 
tipped yellow ; Ambassador, purple and orange ; 
Brilliant, crimson ; Charlemagne, yellow; Cyprus, 
crimson and lemon ; Contrast, dark crimson ; 
Cariosity, orange and crimson; Dan Hope, pale 
yellow: Donation, crimson, white tube; Dr. 
GreviUe, rose and buff ; Emblem, white, magenta, 
and lemon; Fascination, white, rose, and lemon; 
Harlequin, white, mottled with rose; Hender- 
soni, white and violet; Fanny, sulphur yellow ; 
Florence, pink and white; Glory, white and 
crimson, tipped yellow; Lamplighter, rose,yellow 
lip; Lilian, white; Miss Davis, pink; Mrs. 
Ashford, white, spotted with crimson; Mrs. 
Hodge, yellow, carmine striped ; Major Stewart, 
rimson and orange; Nina, white, mottled rose; 
IlsrJlo, sulphnr, crimson spots ; Namur, rose 
rink, yellow tip ; Rosy Morn, rose; Royal Albert, 
;eilow, red striped; Sir George Douglas, car- 
nice ; Sunbeam, white, peach stripes. 

E. Hobday. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(miscellaneous.) 

FA)!.—Cement for cistern. -In reply to 
•J. IS. I'.,” having built and cemented many 
jtems, reservoirs. Sec., for the purpose of hold¬ 
er rain and other water during forty-live years, 
id tiding some for myself, I have never heard 
•h complaint of hardness; one I use almost 
aily, at home, is so soft that I know as soon as 
I v-jin to wash if, by mistake, I happen to have 
well or town supply water. I am not aware 
any special cement for the purpose,only that 
; oust be of good quality. Perhaps the cistern 
:• J. B. F. ” was built in lime mortar, and the 
■aride water percolates through the brick- 
when the rain water is low; but a well 
-rented tank shouldneitherletwaterinnorout 
anuzh its wall or dome; it seems there is 
roe imperfection that can be remedied. I 
we used, both the old Roman and Portland 
dstnts with same results, and wonder why 
=k tanks are not more generally used. I may- 
ire remark they may be formed entirely of 
rod cement concrete, and domed over, if in 
&i ground, and a large quantity of water 
-•red and kept sweet during a dry summer, 
"carl of being allowed to run away in waste, 
rerially off slated roofs, as they keep cleaner 
in tiles. The crying evil of want of water in 
- seasons may be easily remedied by circular 
-tis, that need not be made so expensive as 
• r often are, especially where plenty of gravel 
<t*.— J. Puli iA »ii Broxbmirne. 


I can scarcely believe that it should be 
sly credited that it is possible, by cu¬ 
ring one particular kind of cement in faciDg 
isteiD, to change the nature of the water, 
fj.r, tlie cement is useful only when it is abso- 
•' ay impervious, and how can an impervious 
'ri-jial affect the water 1 The very best cement 
tland of a good make, and to face a cistern 
♦' cold be used neat, although a very thin coat- 
*iU do if beneath there is a thicker one of 
kent and sand. The atmosphere can materially 
ftrt water, and, as far as possible, all cisterns 
kt-: i>e open at the top to admit air, but then 
tel rases and noxious sediment must be cx- 
fibei; if the water be used f 5 * drinking pnrpi 
—LD. 


Digitized bi 


lamenting purpoie 

Googli 


9873, 9875,9879.— Grubs in garden soil. 

—The grubs complained of are those of the 
daddy longlegs, which have now reached their 
full size. They are among the gardener's most 
troublesome enemies, as they can only feed at 
the surface of the ground, aDd so destroy far 
more than they can eat. Cut sharp-edged 
trenches and holes among the plants in the 
evening, about 1£ inches deep ; they tumble into 
these and the birds catch them. Stir the ground 
amongtt the plants frequently, small birds al¬ 
ways search newly-stirred soil; catch and kill 
on every opportunity, and destroy as many of 
the perfect insects as possible. In country gar¬ 
dens they are seldom troublesome, as they prefer 
grass turf to cultivated ground, and the perfect 
insects fall an easy prey to all insect-eating 
birds; but in town and suburban gardens where 
all birds but sparrows are banished, they some¬ 
times reach the dimensions of a plague, devour¬ 
ing lawns wholesale. Rolling the lawn with a 
heavy roller late at night, or after a good soaking 
of lime water, will destroy multitudes.—J. D. 

9892.— Destroying aphides. —There is 
nothing so good in the way of insecticides as 
Tobacco powder, as it may be used freely by the 
inexperienced without the slightest fear of ill 
consequences. As soon as the presence of the 
fly is detected, the infested parts should be 
thickly dusted with the powder and allowed to 
remain, as then not only will the living insects 
be either killed or driven away, but the young 
ones, which are continually hatching from the 
eggs deposited on the growing shoots, will not be 
able to feed, and will immediately die. The 
great point is always to have some powder at 
hand, and a fine muslin bag to put it on with, 
and to dust as soon as one fly is perceived, as by 
allowing them to get established, so many eggs 
are deposited that it is a work of some time to 
clear the plants. Green fly is found mostly on 
the underside of the leaves, consequently this 
portion should be well powdered. We grow 
here many thousands of Strawberries under 
glass, and for some years have used nothing 
but Tobacco powder.—J. C. B. 

9915. — Cropping fruit and flower 
garden. —In reply to “ Fragola,” I can recom¬ 
mend from personal experience the following 
fruit and flowers: Fruit—Red, White, and Black 
Currants, Gooseberries, and Raspberries. These 
will be found of easy culture. The Black 
Currants will not require pruning; the white 
and red will require cutting back in the spring. 
Plant the above in good rich ground, occasion¬ 
ally mulching with rotten manure. If there is a 
rich, stiff piece of ground in a sunny spot, plant 
.Strawberries; Sir J. Paxton is one of the best. 
The following flowers: Pansies: Polyanthuses, 
Primroses, Columbines, Sweet Williams, Pyre- 
thrums, Carnations, Pinks, Delphiniums, Lychnis, 
See .; all these will be found easy of cultivation, 
and will have a good effect in such a garden as 
the one alluded to, and some hardy annuals may 
be sown in March, or the following in a sheltered 
place in August and September: Limnanthus, 
Silene, Saponaiia, Calandrinia, Cyanus, &c.— 
T. H. W. 

9896.— A wet garden. —In a soil that is so 
saturated with water as to be largely covered 
with it during the winter, the best trees would 
be Willow and Dogwood, both very fond of 
moisture and thriving well beside rivers. The 
wood is found useful for powder making and 
some domestic uses, but in a small case, such as 
this, its chief use would be found in giving shade, 
and materially helping to absorb some of the 
too abundant liquid. Fruit trees would hardly 
do well in a soil so full of water, although we 
know that in many cases Raspberries and Black 
Currants will do fairly well in soils in which the 
water rises nearly to the surface in the winter, 
but at least falls to its normal depth in the 
summer. To convert such a position into a duck 
pond, is about the best thing that can be done 
with it.—A. D. 

9929.— Heating a portable green¬ 
house. —In answer to “ Novice,” allow me to 
recommend him one of Wilcox &c Co.’s amateur 
heating apparatuses. 1 should think one about £'t 
complete would give him satisfaction. A friend 
of mine has one, and he finds it does its work 
well. They are easily put. together, .and burn a 
small quantity of fuel. The best fuel is coke 
broken about the size of a Walnut. These are 
clean, easily managed, and quite safe.— 
A. T. H. W. 


0917-—Vegetable Marrows and Cu¬ 
cumbers. —“ G. T. S.” can grow the above in 
a sunny place in the open air with success. The 
blooms will require to be fertilised to set the 
fruit. Female flowers are smaller than the male 
flowers. Plant in rich soil with plenty of rotten 
manure; water during hot, dry weather and 
sprinkle overhead occasionally on hot, dry days. 
-A. T. H. W. 

0034.—Strawberries.—Cut oir the runners from 
those plants that have rooted, and about the autumn 
phiut thote that are rooted in good soil. Water with 
liquid manure when in flower.—A. T. 11. W. 

0864.—Spittle blight.—Spittle blight can easily be 
removed by picking out the insect with a small artist's 
hog-hair brush, and dropping it in a pan of hot water.— 
J. I). 

9873.—Slugs and snails.—If you wish to get rid of 
grubs and slugs, get a seagull and clip its wings. Give it 
any kind of pieces from the kitchen, and a bowl of fresh 
water, and tlie bird will soon become tame.—E. P. 


Fly In Cucumbers.— Subscriber.— The Quassia 
chip water would not hurt them if not too strong, neither 
would the soapsuds. Tobacco water would also be 
effectual. 

Barren Strawberries— An Amateur.— Root them 
out at once, and get runners from plants that are known 
to!e fruitful. 

Geo. Robinson.— The principal thing is to keep tlie at¬ 
mosphere of the house from getting so dry as to breed 
red spider. Damp the floors when there is air on only. 
Open the house at eight o’clock in the morning, and par¬ 
tially close between two and three in the afternoon. Then 
reduce the air further about six in the cveuing, leaving, 
of course, a little air in all night. The house may be 

damped two or three times a day if necessary.- Pedro 

—At any good Rose nursery. 

J. M. C. —The Petunias are very good, but we have seen 

much better.- A Lootr of Flowers.— It is not necessary 

to raise the bench, as the plants get plenty of light. You 
can raise them on inverted flower pots, itc., as required. 

- Ructama . — Probably you refer to the Oleander 

(hierium.)- V. L. —No; vol. 1 is out of print. 

Names of plants.— C. M. is’.—l, Polystichum ca- 
pense; 2, I’hlebodium aurcum; 3, Aspidium angulare 

prolifemm.- A.M.C.— Lyeium barbarum.- Croham 

Hurst— Euphorbia Esula. - A. R. F. II— Brugmansia 

aanguinea. 1, Uliurn longiflorum ; 2, Celsia erotica (yel¬ 
low); 3, Hahenarlu bifolia.- M. E. G.— Both plants are 

apparently species of Alyssunt. D. Rowland.—A dis¬ 
tinct variety, one that has not before come under our 

notice.-i/. D — 3, Polystichum capense ; 4, Onychium 

japonicum ; 5, Dnvallia cunariensis ; 6, Echites species. 

Other flowers not in a fit condition to name. - G. /.— 

lienthamia fragifern.- L. G. B.— Double varieties of 

Pyrethrum roseurn (not obtainable by seed).- Old Sub • 

scribe r.—Oxali8 Acetosella, not the Shamrock, but Wood 

Sorrel.- Auchinblcu. —Androsaco rotundifolin.- Al. 

Robinson. — 2, Auchusa semporvirens; 4, Tradeseantia 

virgimea.- Hannah.— Corydalis lutea (yellow), Sedum 

glaueuin, Krigoron inucronatum. Aquilegia vulgaris, 
Sempcrvivim ciliatum. Campanula persicifolia. Thcro 
were no numbers attached to auy of the specimens. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents.—A if ccmmunica- 

lions for insertion should be clearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the Publisher. The name 
and address of the sender is required , in addition to any 
uom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece of paper. Ovrinq to the necessity of 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day qf publication , it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
ansxcered should be sent to us again. 

9959. —Rocky pond.--I have a space in my garden, 27 
feet long by 11£ feet wide, aud have an idea of convertiug 
it into a pond,surrounded by rockwork, with rustic roots 
and stumps of trees, and virgin cork interspersed. Tho 
water, which is about 40 feet from the proposed pond, 
would be supplied from a pump by a hose. A medium 
sized water cave, suitable fish, hardy aquatic plants, and 
water-loving Ferns would form part of the arrangement. 
Will some reader, who has successfully carried out a 
similar work, kindly give me the benefit of his advice 
and experience, and especially withrefereuce to tlie most 
effectual and economical means of making the pond 
watertight ?— Lakelet. 

9960. —Roses on fences.—I have read with much 
interest the first leading article in hist week’s Gardening 
on Roses and their planting, but as the writer does not 
say whether own-root Roses or Briers or dwarf standards 
are best for the purpose of covering tho fences, can lie 
kindly inform me which are the best? I have a south¬ 
west aspect on one, and north east on the other, aud 
shall be glad to know which he recommends, ;is 1 wish to 
plant some this autumn. I have also a yellow Marguerite 
out-of-doors. Can I take cuttings from it?—G. J. T., 
Beckenham. 

9961. — Greenhouses for profit.— I am about 
erecting a lean-to greenhouse, 100 feet by 12 feet, and 
shall be obliged for any advice as to the most profitable 
use to put it to. I intend devoting part to Cucumbers 
and Tomatoes, say 40 feet. What sort of flowers would 
be most profitable to grow, and what amount of pipin g 
would be required for such a house ? 1 intend to have it 
well heated. Any information will greatly oblige.— 
C. S. 

9962. —Roses for forcing.—Last autumn 1 put in a 
considerable number of Rose cuttlngs.uearly all ol which 
struck and are now growing freely. I shall be glad to 
know how to treat them so aB to have them ready fov 


212 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[July 7, 1883. 


forcing in the autumn and winter. What soil and tem¬ 
perature will they require, and when should they be 
potted? I shall be very glad for any hints.—F. R. 

9563.—Oaks bleeding- —What can be done to stop 
a How of sap from an Oak tree at about 4 feet from the 
ground? Cutting a strip of bark out along the line of 
flowing sap up to its starting point failed to reveal trace 
of any grub ; but tiny maggots are visible in the stream. 

I have tried a composition of cow dung, wood ashes, and 
lime without effect.— Eicbe. 

9964. —My garden.—Your correspondent, •' Mark,” 
under the above heading, gives a very interesting method 
of striking cuttings. Would he kindly say whether any 
top ventilation is given, or can an ordinary bell-glass be 
used, and if the arrangement would answer in a cool 
greenhouse ?— Bell-glass. 

9965. —Apple leaves curled.—I have several Apple 
trees, most oi the leaves on which are curled or blighted. 
Under the curled portions of the leaves there is a small 
black insect. If anyone could kindly inform me of the 
cause of the blight, and suggest a remedy, I should feel 1 
obliged.—J. JORDEN. 

99C6.—Improving 1 clay soil.—I have just moved 
into a new house, and the garden is quite unworkable, 
being all clay. What is the best thing to do with it? I 
do not want to spend much money on it, as I may not 
stop very long. Any information will oblige. — Clay 
Ground. 

9967. —PropagatlEg Carnaticne.—Can these be 
propagated now from pipings, and where would be the 
best place to put them. I have a greenhouse, Ac. Last 
October I put them out-of-doors, and they struck well. 
Would it be better to wait till then, or will they strike 
freely now ?—A. T. H. W. 

9968. —Pear trees not fruiting-.—I have two Pear 
trees in my garden that bloom well every year, but pro¬ 
duce scarcely any fruit; they are both young trees, 
grafted about ten years ago, and appear quite healthy. 
Will someone kindly tell me the reason they do not fruit? 
—J. C. 

9969. —Earwigs.—Could anyone kindly give me a 
recipe for the destruction of earwigs? My garden is 
swarmed with them, and they are eatii g up all my Leans 
as soon as they appear above ground. Strange to say 
that is the only vegetable touched.—B. W. N. 

9970. —Strawberry plants for forcing:. —Would 
any reader kindly inform me whether the PjlncesB Straw¬ 
berry will force well ? Also, I should like the names of the 
best sorts for forcing, and where to get them?—YOUNG 
Gardener. 

0971—Slow combustion 6toves.—Would some¬ 
one name one or more Blow combustion ttoves that would 
bum at Bmall cost, say from eight to ten hours without 
attention, to heat small greenhouse ? I am unable to 
have a boiler.—R egular Subscriber. 

9972 — Arum LilieB after flowering.—Will some¬ 
one kindly inform me what to do with my Callas which 
have now done flowering ? When is the bert time to 
divide them, and how’ shall I keep them through the win¬ 
ter ?—Warrington. 

9973. —Cucumber growing.—Will any practical 
reader inform me as to the best way of growing Cucum¬ 
bers in frame or house, having regard to crop and sim¬ 
plicity of management f—E. S. 

9974. —Staining floors.—Will some reader kindly 
tell me the best method of staining deal floors in imita¬ 
tion of oak,and of polishing them with bees-wax and tur¬ 
pentine afterwards—French fashion?—X. Y. Z. 

9975. —Santolina as an edging.—I see Santolina 
canescens recommended for an edging. My experience 
of this is an upright growing shrub. To what height can 
it be easily kept down by cutting for edging ?—A. Boyle. 

9976. —Pelargoniums.- Having frequently read of 
fancy, show, French, and Regal Pelargoniums, I would 
like to know characteristic features of each ; also names 
of three or four typical plants of each variety.—'W. A. F. 

9977. — Maggots in Chrysanthemums.— The 
bottom leaves of my Chrysanthemums are all dying, and 
on examining them I And a grub in them. How can 
1 destroy these pests without injuring the plants?—O. D. 

9973.—Planting Raspberries.—I should be glad of 
some information about Raspberries. Which are the best 
sorts for a small villa garden in which the soil is rather 
dry ? When is the right time for planting 7—M. E. F. 

9979.—Planting Euonymuses.—When is the best 
time to plant Euonymus radicans variegatus, and 
will it withstand the winter In the open gTound ?—J. J. 

99i0.—Earth closet manure.—What is the best 
way to treat and apply as manure the contents of an 
earth closet?—P. H. 

9931.—Manure for Azaleas.—How often ought 
ht&nden’s manure to be applied to Azaleas, and for what 
length of time should it be continued?—AMATEUR. 

99S2.—Pruning Golden Yews —Should the Golden 
Yew be pruned, and when ?— RUSTTCUS. 

9983.—Esparto Grass.—Can anyone tell me where I 
can buy seed of this grass t— R. D. 


Cure for Gooseberry caterpillar. — At the 
suegestion of a correspondent of GARDENING, I 
boiled some Elder leaves and washed the Gooseberry 
trees with the liquor. I wish to say the result was so 
effectual that this year the trees are full of healthy leaf 
and fine fruit. —E. P. 

Vinegar and bran traps for slugs.—I have 
tried this trap for three weeks, going out after dark with 
a lantern and pair of scissors. 1 have killed 3731 slugs.— 
II. P. 


Flowers for sketching. — We shall le 
glad. if our readers mill send m from time to time 
specimen# of any unusually good or rare forcers for 
figuring. In all case# the flowers should he sent 
with fairly long stalks, and where possible with 
foliage also. Views of jneturesque gardens mould 
also be welcom/T** 

Lo 


'gle 


R. W. BEACHEY’S 

STRONG, WELL ROOTED PLANTS , ALL CAR¬ 
RIAGE PAID. 

"DUCBSIAS, twelve finest-named double and 

-1- single, 2s. id.; Fuchsia Edelweiss, new double white. 
Is. 2d.; BOUVARD1A8, six finest for winter dooming, 
2s. 6d. ; Alfred Neuner, double white. 9<L each: 8ALYIA*, 

f stens, Bp'eudvns, flecri. lcucantba, Betheli. Hoveyi, 
‘itcberi, *'x, 2 b. ; ABUTILONB, six finest named, 2s. , 
GiBANlUMS, twelve good btdders. 2s. ; twelve finest for 
pots, named. 4* ; Pearson's new set for 1882, Is. each. 
TROPA.OLUMS, two best doubles, Is. 2d. ; PELAR¬ 
GONIUMS, twelve fine named, 4a.; cuttings, half-price; 
FERNS, twelve beautiful varieties, 6s. ; PANSIES, twelve 
eplendid named ehow and fancy, 3s. 6<L 

R. W. BEACHEY, 

FLUDER FLOWER GARDENS, RING SEERS WELL. 
_ DEVON 


fjHRYSANTHEMUMS. - Twelve beautiful 

yJ Japanese, show, and Pompone, fine, well-rooted plants, 
correctly named, 3s ; free —R, W. BEACHEY, Fluder Flower 
Gardens. King»ken>well. Devonshire. 


REDDING PANSIES and VIOLAS.-Plant 

-U now. Nothing equal for constant display through sea¬ 
son. Blue Kins, fincet blue, la. 3d. doz., 8s. 100; Frecdt m, 
best rurple: vertal, best white; Gem of Roses. Tiojan, 
Mulberry, Grievei, Attraction. Is. 6d. dor... 10s. 100; many 
others; list.—R. W. BEACHEY, Fluder, Kingskerswell, 

Devon.__ 

ftY CLAMEN ! CYCLAMEN I!- Superb strain, 

yj 2s. 6d. doz.; larger plants *o bloom on from September, 
4 b. doz. ; verv large, la. each.—R. W. BEACHEY, Kitgskeis- 
well, Devonshire. _ _ 


TTERBACEOUS PHLOXES.-Twelve splendid 

-LI- named varieties, distinct. 3s . fre»; Canterbury Bells, ten 
varieties, mixed, Is. dozen ; Polyanthus, giant white, yellow, 
crimson, fancy, 2s. dozen. Catalogue.—It. W. BEACHEY, 
KiDgskerswell. Devonshire_ 


TTKRY HANDSOME AQUILEGJA8 (Colum- 

V bines)—Coe rule*, pale blue ard white; califomica, 
crimson and yellow; chrypautha, bright yellow; clardulosa. 
blue and white ; and canadtnsis, scarlet and yellow; the 5 
good plant*, 2a, 6d. ; 6, 3*.; 12. 4a.; 50. 15s. ; 100, 25s.; 1COO, 
£10, free for cash with order. Other plants previously 
advertised still for Bale. — W. FARREN, How Home 
Nurse ies, Cambridge. __ 


pHRYSANTHENUM PLANTS. - Best ex- 

VJ hibition varieties, large-flowering, Pom 


HARK 


hibition varieties, large-flowering, Pompone. Japanese, 
Twebe^jlants^conectJy naaed.ls. 9d., carriage paid.— 


tSONB, Nureerymen. Bedale. 


OPLENDID named Scotch Pansies.—Twelve 

^ grand exhibition varieties, including the rich velvety 
crimson Dean Ramsey, 3s., delivered; twelve specially 
selected varieties for border* handiome free-flowering kinds, 
2s. 6d.. delivered.—BARENESS A fcON, Nurserymen, 
Bedale, Yorkshire. 


CHOICEST FANCY PANSY SEED from 

300 varieties, including the rich, handsome bronzes and 
crimsoma so much sought after, and the blotched aDd edged 
varieties, 6d. and la. per packet.—BARENESS A SONS, 
Bt dale. 


1 Q FUCHSIAS, best varieties, double and single, 
LcJ including Miss Lizzie Vidler. Grand Duchess Marie, 
Ac., Is. 9d., free.—H AREN ESS A SONS, Nurserymen, 
Bedale, Yorks. 


PLANTS.—Dwarf Tom Thumb Nasturtiums, 

L fine for bedding, equal Geraniums and Calceolarias for 
effect, continue in bloom until cut off by frost, and are un¬ 
injured by rain; 6 lovely colour*, black, scarlet, pink, yellow, 
Ac,. *eparatc or assorted, 50. free for 2*.—HARKNE88 A 
HONS, Bedale. 


CUMMER FLOWERING CHRYSANTHE- 

kj MUMS, quite hardy, need no protection, exceedingly 
bright flower*, from pure white to intense crimson, produced 
abundantly from July to September ; 12 plants (to plant out 
now), distinct varieties, 4s ; 6 plant*, 2s. 6d., free.—HARK- 
NK83 & SONS. Nurserymen. Ac.. Bedale._ 


XTOW READY.—Sanders’new Pansy List for 
■Li 1883, containing many beautiful illustrations of new 
Pansies, cultural information, and a variety of otbei matter, 
Bent post free for four Denny stamps, said stamps to be de¬ 
ducted from first order given. Order at once. — WM. 
SANDERS, The Gardens, Leek. Staffordshire. 


PANSY SEED, carefully saved ; fancy Belgian 
L and English show, Is. ner pkt., free.—WM. BANDERS, 
The Gardens. Leek. Staffordshire. 


P ANSY CUTTINGS struck now would yield 

beautiful blooms for late summer and autumn shows, 
2b. per doz, named; purchaser’s own selection.— W. 
B ANDERS, Tne Gardens, L eek, Staff*. _ 

ft OSES ON OWN ROOTS.—Nice strong plants, 

LVi will soon bloom, three for 2s. 6d., free ; Gloire de Dijon, 
Cheshunt Hybrid, Reve d'Or, the three best Roses that gTcw. 
—MAIRIS A CO., Weston-in-Gordano, Bristol. 

FERNS AND BEGONIAS.—Four Maiden hair 

L Ferns, two varieties ; two variegated Ferns and six 
Begonia*, with beautifully marked leaves. 2s. 6d., free.— 
MAIRIS A CO., Weston-in-Gordano, Bristol 


T WO climbing Begonia fuehsioides. will soon 
flower; 2 beautiful Epiphyllums, 2 Maidenhair Ferns. 
The 6ix strong plants for 2s. 6<L, free.—MAIRIS A CO., 
WcBton-in-Corrtanp, Bristol. 


HHEAP AND GOOD PLANTS FOR ROOMS. 

VJ certain to please.—Aralias, Grevilleas, Chorozemas, 
Green Dracsena*. Monochautor s. Acacias, greenhouse Fems, 
all from* 6d. each Strong seedlings of best mixed varieties 
Tuberous Begonias and showy-berried plants Rivina and 
Bolanum Hendersoni, 2* to 3s. per doz Best Virgin Cork, 
invaluable for bidiug pots. 3d. per lb., 18e. cwt. Our noted 
bouquets from Is. 6d.; wreaths and crosses from 5s., for¬ 
warded to all parts of the United Kingdom. Bedding plant 
list free,—W. lJAILEY, Southboume Winter Garden, near 
Christchurch. Telegrams to Bouthbourne. Established 1872. 


T OFF ER, TO CLEAR OUT, for want of room, 

J- the following splendid strong i lants: 1 Nicotiana attinis, 
1 Castor-oil, 1 Clianthus puniccus (magnificent greentouse 
shrub), 1 Ipomrea Leeri (splendid greenhouse climber), 1 
Balvia patens, and 12 dwarf bouquet Aster*, best for pot 
culture, post free, 2s. Gd.— JOHN R1GGB, Blandford. 


FERNS A SPECIALITY. 

Exotic and British Ferns and Seiaginellas, 

Suitable for STOVE and GREENHOUSE cultivation, for 
OUTDOOR FERNERIES, and other purposes in inn <nn 
number and variety. Our ILLUSTRATED CATALCGl'B 
(price 6d.) contain* much useful information as well u 
* T Hints on Fern Culture." SPECIAL LIBTB issued at inter* 
val* during *he year, giving extremely low quotaticus, may 
be had FREE cn application. 


w. 


& J. BIRKENHEAD, 

Fern Non-cry. 8ale. Manchester. 


pFRIILlSING MOSS, onr Speciality.—All 

l plant growers should send for our Fample box uitfc 
growing plant and cultural directions, Is., port free. - 
MANAGER. Great Frenches, Crawley Dean. Buwex. 


pHEAP BEDDING PLANTS. — Very finest 

yj prize (train*. Quilled After*, J2 colours: French rtriped 
and orange, lemon and quilled African Marigold*, Godc-tis, 
I'hlox Drummondi, double Zinnias. All stout plants at 4d. 
per dozen, 2s. t'd. per 100; purcbaier's selection port f»ee over 
2*. Other bedding j lants equally cheap —MANAGER, Great 
Frenches. Crawley Down, Sussex. 


TZELWAY & SON, L»ngport, Somerset, offer 
•Ia. Gladioli. Dahlias, pingle ana double; Pyrethrume, siDgls 
and double; Phlcxe*, Tea Rones, Calceolaria, and Cineraria 
seed. Catalogues gratis and post free 

E W PIN K G ER A N I U M, TRINCES8 

HELEN —This is the best winter-blooming pink Get* 
nium yet produced ; also the best pink bedder. As free 
bloomer as tbe old VESUVIUS, never eeedirg outdoors—a 
great boon for a pink. Good plant*. Is. 6d. e ach, port free. 

NEW DOUBLE GOLDEN MARGUERITE. - Chryfan- 
thernum lutea plena, bright golden yellow, a* double a* a 
Ranunculus, blocmirg rrofuttly all the year round ; fine for 
cut bloom. Good plant*, *d. each, poet free. 

BICOLOR PLENA, similar to the above ; colour yellow, 
margined with white ; fine for cut bloom. 6d. each, port free. 

TALL LOBELIAS (cardinal]* section).—6 fine varieties at 
this useful rummer am autumn-blocming perennial, 3e., poet 
free, from B. W. KNJGBT, Florist, Battle, Sussex. 


PENNY PLANTS FOR TBE MILLION.-, 

■L The follow ing are now offered in good plants : 12 Fuch¬ 
sias, specially frr pot* or tbe border, la. 12 yellow Calc ml*-1 
Tins, la. 12 bedding Cupbeaa, I*. 12 various einple Gera¬ 
nium*, 1*. 12 varicuB double Geranium*, la. 12 Heliotro- 
piuma. Is. 12 white Paris Marguerites, Is. 12 dwarf bluu 
Ageratum, Is. 12 large Victoria Dairies, 1*. 12 Polyantbur. j 
1 b. 12 scarlet Geraniums, Is. 12 pink Geranium*, 1*. 12' 
Coleus Verschaffelti. heft for bedding, la 12 Cbryfantbe- : 
mums, large flowered, Japan, and Pomrone, Is. 12 Myoeo'lr, 
Cliveden Forget-me-not, 1*. 12 Sweet William, Auricula-, 
eyed, Is. 12 dwarf white Ageratum, 1*. 12 Coleur, fire for* 
1,*2 dwarf blue 1 obeli a, le. 12 Tresine LiDdcni, Is.,] 
ll variegated Geraniums, 1b. 12 scarlet bedding Tropaolum. 
Is. 12 variegated Alyssum, white foliage for edging, la 12 
Petunias, flue. Is. 12 Giant Musk, the large variety, 1 b. 12) 
Pansies and Viola*, fine for bedding, la. 12 dark brown 
Calceolarias, Is. 12 Mentha ^ibraltarica, fine for margin* or- 
carpet bedding, la. 12 Antirrhinums, fine variety, 1b. 12y 
white Geraniums, 1*. 

Ad>- of the above plants *enfc post free at Is. per- dozen. 
Order* of 10s. and upwards, if desired, will be sent in boxe*: 
per rail, carriage paid, to London. All are good plants, from 
B. W. KNIGHT, Floriet, Battle, Puseex. 


iTBE CFLEBRATED DEVONSHIRE FERN 

A. PACKET, containing twenty of these most beautifu 
plant*, many varieties, named, suitable for window garden 
ing, table decoration, Ac., together with full printed cultura 
direction* and ample instruction* for making rockeries am" 
Wardian and other Fern case*. Price 1 b. 3d., free.—J 
SEWA RD. Feratot. Barartapla. _ 

P lUMULAS. COLEUS.- 12 Primula* 

(Williams’ superb strain), 2s , free ; 12 Coleu*, 9*., free 
—W. E BOYCE, 8 7. Ye rbury Road, H olloway. Lond on. 

ASTERS! ASTERS!!—J. Betteridge has 

xl few hundreds left, strong plants, of bis uurivalle 
quilled Aster* for late blooming ; offer* them »b follow* : T * 
100, 3*. 8d ; 50 for 2a., free by reft, ca*h with order. Test 
monial* to hat d t very day.—J. BETTERIL'GE, The Asti 
Nuretry, Chipping Norton. Gxon. 

F ERNS from Devomhire, Cornwall, and Somei 
set, by an experienced collector of 25 years; correct I 
named and packed ; with Instruction Book for inakiu 
Rockery, planting Ferns, Ac., with each 5s. order. 14 to 1 
named varieties, 6a. per 100. Prrall (port). 90 for 2*. AHri T 
NIUM FONTANUM BEPTENTKIONALE and FOL1 
BTICHUM LONCH1TIS (Holly), Is. each. 1000 varirti. 
BRITISH and EXOTIC. Catalogue, 2d. Estah. 25 years.- 
E. GILL, Lodging-house Keeper, Lynton, N. Devon. 


rPHE HANDSOMEST STOVE BALSAM 

A producing a profusion of brilliant rosy scarlet Do wen 
IMPAT1ENS 8ULTANI. free by port on receipt of post? 
order for ?b. 6cL—CARAWAY k CO., Durdiham Dow 
N urseries, Clifton. Bristol- _ 

IPRAILING IVY for window boxes, arches 

-I- trellis work, Ac. Six web tooted sprays, port free. 1„ 
Warranted and selected.—T HOS. P. MAY, 44, North Stieo 
Horncaetle. 

TTAEDY NATIVE ORCHIDS betntmil]' 

J-L spotted leave*, pink and white flowtr* ; for outdoor cv 
tivation. Six well-rooted plants, la ; twelve for 1*. Id. ; io 
free. Warranted and selected ; carefully packed.— 1 HOS 
MAY, 44. North (street, Hoincartie 

flLIMBING HONEYSUCKLE covcre<T-wit 

yj beautifully Bweet-scented flower* all summer and pearl' 
berries in winter ; for summer houses arches, trelliB wm 
Ac. Six well rooted plants, peat free,]* ; twelve for Is. t 
Carefully packed.-TH08. P. MAY, 44, North Street, Hor 

castle._ 

"TERN ROOTS—Hardy Lincolnshire Fe 

L roots, very fine and massive, for rockeries and ferr.cri 
price 25 for 2*. 6d., 50for 4a. Cd. ; several are worth 1*. eae 
Each one warranted to flourish : assorted varieties ; caretu 
packed.—Til OB. P. MAY, 44, North Street, Horne art ie. 

HARDEN NETTING.-Splendidlymad^Txt 

vX stout, brown-tanned garden nettirg, ICO yards by 2 yai 
cost Jd. per square yard ; price, only Id. rer tonare jam; t 
lot. 12s. Money returned if not approved.—THOS. P. MA 
44. North Street. Horncastle. 

q 1 HE BEST WHITE' PINK.-Tlie true o 

J- whi*ePink is still acknowledged the BEST for FBI 
FLOWERING and PURITY OF BiOOM; cutting* v 
now strike easily; strong cutting*, 12 for 1*.; 36 for 2s 6 
50 for 3a. 3d. Package and carriage free.—HUTCII A3 
A SONS, Shrewsbury. 





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Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[July 14 , 1883 . 


his shoulders, though too many would say that 
the work must have been badly done.—A. D. 


RENOVATING VINE BORDERS. 

The best time for renovating a Vine bdrder is 
in the autumn, and if care and attention be paid, 
there should be no need to sacrifice the crop. 
There are various opinions as regards making 
Vine borders, but 1 have always found a sweet, 
well-drained border to produce satisfactory 
results—that is, a border free from manure. 
The best time to lift Vines is as soon as the 
wood is thoroughly ripe and the fruit all removed. 
A day or two before commencing damp all 
available surfaces inside the house, so as to 
charge the pores of the foliage with water, and 
if the roof can be shaded with canvas or mats so 
much the better, as the shade keeps the atmo¬ 
sphere cool and quiet, and preserves the foliage, 
which is of great use in assisting root action. 
The best material for making the border is 
undoubtedly the top sod of an old pasture, full of 
fibre and free from fungus; if this is not 
comeatable, get the nearest thing to it within 
reach. Cut the sods from 2 inches to 3 inches 
iu depth, according to quality, removing any 
long Grass that may be on them, and chop them 
into pieces 2 inches or 3 inches square, and 
throw them into a heap. See that everything is 
ready to repair any drainage defects that may be 
found. Commence at the outside of the border 
with manure forks, dig up the soil and carefully 
lay back the roots as the work proceeds, covering 
them with wet mats; then remove the soil and 
put the drainage right. It is a good plan to lay 
a 2 inch drain tile against the front wall of the 
vinery, and cross drains every 6 feet, filling up 
between with waste brick or other suitable 
material to the depth of G inches. This secures 
good drainage and sure outlet in case of 
spouts running over. The foundation of the 
border should be 12 inches higher at the back 
than in front, with a drain a little lower than the 
foundation along the front to carry off the water 
from the cross drains. Cover the drainage over 
with sods, green side down, then fill up with 
chopped sods to the desired height made pretty 
solid. If the sod be of an adhesive character, mix 
with it a few broken waste bricks or sandstone; 
but if sandy they will not be needed. In making 
up the border, allow for subsiding and for appli¬ 
cations of fresh surface dressings as may be 
required, which form the best means of main- 
tiining the vigour of the Vines. The border 
being ready, spread the roots out full length 
carefully and evenly over the surface, just cover 
them with some of the finest material, and give 
sufficient water, from a rose-6pouted can, to fill 
in the crevices about the roots, finally covering 
them with not more than 2 inches of soil. Cover 
the whole surface with from 2 inches to 3 inches 
of half rotted stable manure. Keep the manure 
moist in dry weather, together with the natural 
warmth of the soil, which, being put together in 
a green state, forms quite a hotbed, and starts 
the roots into action at once. All manure should 
be applied on the surface; the rain will carry 
down to the roots its feeding properties as they 
require it; the residue should be removed before 
fresh material is put on. J. S. 

STRAWBERRIES FOR POT CULTURE. 

Of the many fruits that are forced, none are 
more highly prized than Strawberries, and almost 
anyone possessing a greenhouse or other glass 
structure may have them by layering runners at 
once, so as to secure good plants, on which suc¬ 
cess in a great measure depends. 

Soil. —The first preliminary is to obtain suit¬ 
able soil, the best for the purpose being that of 
a turfy nature with plenty of fibre, and which 
has been laid up just long enough for the grassy 
part to perish and decompose a little, as beyond 
that, the fresher it is the better will the plants 
do. To get such soil in proper order it is neces¬ 
sary to chop it in pieces and break it up with a 
spade, so as to reduce it to a moderately fine 
state, when, with the addition of a little soot 
sprinkled over, and the whole turned, to mix the 
two well together, it will be ready for filling 
the pots. These may either be of the size it is in¬ 
tended for the plants to fruit in, or small ones 
from which they rnmlse shifted afterwards, but 
with ordinary cariin wati'ng J,9rtfeFthe large 


ones, for this reason, that the runners need not 
be severed from the parent so soon, which I 
regard as a very important matter, as the longer 
they remain attached to their parents, and have 
their help as nurses, the stronger and finer they 
become. This being so, I advise layering 
in 6 - inch pots, which are quite big 
enough for any kind to fruit in, a9 there 
is nothing gained by giving the plants 
much root room, which, instead of assisting and 
enabling them to form good crowns, has a ten¬ 
dency to cause over-luxuriant foliage. In the 
preparation of the pots one crock placed well 
over the hole is sufficient, which done, it is ad¬ 
visable to throw in a pinch of soot, as soot is a 
great help in keeping out worms, which are at¬ 
tracted to the pots by the moisture caused by 
the draining through of the water. When filling 
the pots with soil, a handful of the roughest 
should be placed in the bottom of each; the 
other portion should be taken as it comes, and 
made quite firm, as in growing Strawberries the 
thing to aim at is good sturdy plants, with com¬ 
pact, bold crowns, without a superabundant 
leafage, and compressed soil does much in bring¬ 
ing about such a condition. 

In layering;, the chief object should be to 
select the best runners, and having done so and 
trimmed them ready by the removal of any beyond 
them,the next thing is to set the pots in an upright 
position, and peg a runner firmly in the centre of 
each. This may be done by the nse of common 
cheap hairpins, bent wire, or pegs cut from old 
birch brooms and made for the purpose, or the 
runners may be secured in their proper positions 
by laying stones on them of sufficient size to 
keep them down till they root. With regular 
and proper attention in watering, they soon do 
that, and grow at a rapid rate, so rapid, indeed, 
as to crowd each other, and when they begin to 
do this, it is high time to cut them from the old 
plants add remove them. The best situation 
for them during the summer is an open, sunny 
spot where they can be placed on a hard bottom 
of coal ashes, as these are impervious to worms. 
To afford the plants every chance, and prevent 
them drawing, they should have plenty of room, 
that is, sufficient to be just clear of each other, 
and so placed or arranged as to be convenient 
to water, as during dry weather they will require 
it daily, and in all cases when given it should 
be in sufficient quantity to soak through and 
wet the whole of the soil. By the middle of 
August or so, the plants will be sufficiently 
advanced to take liquid manure, which, properly 
diluted, may be given twice or thrice a week 
with the greatest advantage, as a stimulant of 
that nature then helps them on wonderfully. 

After culture. —Runners must be carefully 
removed by cutting or pinching them away as fast 
as they form, by doing which the whole strength 
and energy of the plant is concentrated in the 
crown, and unless this is well and fully developed, 
the truss of blossoms each should contain cannot 
be formed. If the weather should be very dry 
and hot, the plants will be much benefited by an 
occasional syringing, the proper time for doing 
which is during the evening when the sun is off, 
or the plants may be watered overhead by using 
a rosed watering-pot; such wetting of the foliage 
is very refreshing to them, and the best means 
that can be used of warding off red spider, an in¬ 
sect—minute though it be—which often throws 
the plants out of health by sucking the sap from 
the leaves. In the autumn, when growth ceases, 
the plants will not require nearly so much water, 
and should only have just enough to keep the soil 
moist, as a wet, soddened condition at that season 
would be very injurious to the roots after their 
activity ceases. On the other hand, dryness must 
be avoided, as that would be quite as hurtful, 
until the plants go entirely to rest, after which 
they should be stored for the winter. The best 
place for them during that season is a cold pit or 
frame, where they can be plunged in leaves, tan, 
Cocoanut-fibre, or anything of that kind, to pre¬ 
vent the frost acting on the soil and bursting the 
pots, which it is sure to do by the expansion it 
causes in the ball of earth, owing to the moisture 
contained therein. If pits or frames cannot be 
spared, then the plants may be plunged in a 
sheltered place in a bed of cinder-ashes out¬ 
doors, and if the ashes are deep enough to 
cover the pots, the plants and pots will be safe. 

_ 8. D. 

Plum trees In pots— If I could have 
suitable houses in which trees could be planted 


out, I would care but little for trees in pots, but 
it frequently happens that even in large gardens 
houses for planting out every kind of fruit which 
it is desired to grow cannot be spared; it there¬ 
fore becomes a matter of trees in pots or no trees 
of that kind at all. For this reason we have a 
row of trees consisting of Cherries and Plums in 
a Peach house that has only been planted three 
years, and consequently not quite filled with 
bearing wood, but these pot trees have annually 
yielded a fine lot of fruit. The Cherries (May 
Dukes) are over and put out to rest and ripen 
their wood, but the Plums are bearing a heavy 
crop of fine fruit. They consist of the following 
kinds, Rivers's Early Purple, Kirke’s, Jefferson, 
Victoria, Green Gage, and Transparent Gage. 
They give very little trouble compared with the 
amount of fruit which they produce. I would, 
therefore, advise any one wishing to utilise newly- 
planted fruit houses to have some pot trees to 
occupy the open spaces, for if the fruit does not 
equal that from trees planted out in the size and 
quantity, it will at least prove a welcome addi¬ 
tion to the dessert.—J. 


WATER MELONS. 

Were our climate sufficiently genial to admit of 
the culture of Melons in the open air, we should 
probably place a higher value on the Water Melon 
than we now do. In countries where the summer 
heat is intense this fruit is much esteemed, being 
considered wholesome as well as refreshing. In 
common with the Cantaloupe, it is the favourite 




A 




W: 

Jk 1 


of 

jj 





summer fruit with the working classes in large 
towns in France, and at the large fairs annually 
held there during the late summer months im¬ 
mense quantities of them are sold at very cheap 
rates. Being strong in growth, the Water Melon 
requires much space for development, a single 
plant covering, where conditions are favourable, 
many square feet of soil. One often sees it in 
gardens in South Germany rambling freely, just 
as Pumpkins and Vegetable Marrows do with us. 
In fine years in the warmest parts of this country 
it is probable that the Water Melon would suc¬ 
ceed fairlywell.and, considering its hardiness and 
vigour compared with our most esteemed kinds, 
we should perhaps do well to give it a place under 
glass, as it does not need much care, bears heavily, 
and, so far as I am aware, is not liable to canker. 
In any case, early planting in rich, free soil and 
copious waterings are indispensable. The German 
gardeners plant it out on a gentle bottom-beat 
about the beginning of May, sheltering the plants 
under cloches, and gradually inuring them to full 
exposure, so that by the time frosts are no more 
to be feared the plants have good hold of the 
soil, and are ready to respond to the influence of 
the season. J. C. B. 

Cure for wasp stings— It is well known 
that some people suffer a great deal more from 
stings than others, and as the season is now 
approaching when we shall have our annual 
visitation from our lively friends, perhaps a 
simple cure will not come amiss to readers of 
Gardening. It is not new, but it is one I can 
vouch for. It is common whiting, as the follow¬ 
ing will prove; A young fellow in a bit of 
bravado was digging out a wasp's nest in the 
ground, when the insects swarmed up the 
legs of his trousers and shirt sleeves, and stunt- 
him all over the body; in his hurry to escape lie 


«r a tj H R n 


Jcly 14, 1883.] 


GABDEJVING ILLUSTRATED 


215 


rolled over an embankment, and when I got to 
him he had his shirt and trousers literally torn off 
him. Ihad read a short while before in some periodi¬ 
cal that whiting was a good thing to apply. I im¬ 
mediately got some, and, wetting it, rubbed it 
all over his body, and after going home and 
changing his clothes, he came back and assured 
me he felt no pain or ill-effects whatever.—A. M. 


THE COMING- WEEK’S WORK. 


Extracts from a, Garden Diary—July 16 to 
July 21. 

Potttag Daphnes into a mixture of loam, peat, charcoal, 
bones, aDd sand Sowing black-seeded Brown Cos Lettuce 
for winter use. Potting on small Cinerarias. Planting 
oat Lettuces and Endive. Earthing up Cardoona. Pulling 
up pickling Onions and spreading them out to dry. 
lopping Peas which are growing above the sticks. 
Getting largj rough frames ready for sowing late Peas 
and late Dwarf French Beans, so as to protect them 
from the early autumn frosts ; nailing and tying in Roses 
on walls and.' picking off all dead flowers. Hoeing and 
weeding amongst Strawberries, and cutting away all 
runners that are not required for planting. Layering 
Strawberry runners with which to make new plantations, 
rigging land for Turnips. Cutting Lavender. Sowing 
Laxton’s Omega and Unique Peas. Budding Roses, and 
saving them a good mulching with rotten manure, 
Gathering Black Currants for preserving. Lifting early 
sorts of Potatoes, and spreading them out in the sun to 
ripen them well for seed next season. Potting Primulas, 
and afterwards placing them in a close shady frame until 
well rooted. Planting Coleworts on land cleared of 
early Peas, making the holes with a crowbar, and after¬ 
wards watering the roots well in. Putting in Pink and 
Carnation pipings under hand-lights. 

Looking over Marrows and Gherkins, and closely stop¬ 
ping them all. Digging up, manuring, and watering 
borders previous to sowing with Wheeler’s Imperial 
Cabbage, and stopping and nailing in the shoots of Toma¬ 
toes on walls. Nailing in all the leading shoots of 
Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Cherries, and Melons. 
Filling pits with fermenting material iu which to plant 
Cucumbers. Digging land for main crop of Spinach. 
Stopping the laterals through all Vineries, and giving 
lite houses a good soaking with guano water inside and 
Thinning out Turnips, Carrots, and Spinach. 

< ntting back Laurels in pleasure grounds where over¬ 
crowing walks. Watering Lettuce and Endive beds, 
and hoeing amongst all growing crops. Putting In Phlox 
and Pelargonium cuttings. Weeding, hoeing, and after¬ 
wards mulching ABter beds. Stopping and tying out 
IiahLias and thinning out the blooms uhere required for 
exhibition. Catting back Ivy on walls where overgrowing 
windows. Clearing off Peas, and manuring and digging 
the ground ready for autumn Cabbages. Getting new 
mould into cold pits and planting in them Parsley for 
winter use. Cutting back the breastwood and nailing in 
the leaders of Plums and Pears. Potting Pinks and 
winter-flowering Carnations. Sowing Sir Joseph Paxton 
French Beans under the protection of a wall. Earthing 
up Cauliflowers. Planting Paris Cos Lettuce. Pricking 
off a late hatch of Primulas and Cinerarias. Planting 
out a large breadth of Savoys for small heads, also Cole- 
worts. Mulching late Peas with rotten manure. Giving 
-<arlet Runner Beans a good soaking with manure water. 
Weeding and cleaning Box edgings in garden walks. 
Watering Celery, Cardoons, Cauliflowers, and Tomatoes, 
lowing Nemophilas for pot culture; also Ten-week 
'‘toeks. Phlox Drummondi, Lobelias, Rhodanfches, 
'rhizanthus, and Clintonia pulchella ; also Bowing more 
Lettuce, American Cress, French Beans, and Spinach. 
Watering Rhododendrons likely to suffer from drought. 
Putting in cuttings of Centaurea and Artemisia. 

Glasshouses. 

Conservatory.— Now, when the whole of the 
mring-flowering— hard as well as most soft- 
wooded—plants that bloom during the earlier 
rart of the season have done flowering, stove 
plants in bloom will come In most usefully to 
take their places, as, if associated with the 
hardier kinds of Palms, Tree Ferns, Cycads, and 
other fine-leaved plants, and tastefully arranged, 
they have a very fine appearance, and will make 
a display equal to that which existed in spring. 
Where many of the occnpants of conservatories 
are permanently planted out, such a re-arrange- 
ment as is here recommended can only be 
partially effected. At this time of year, when 
insects increase very fast, corresponding atten¬ 
tion most be paid to destroying them, or it will 
be impossible to keep the stock in a healthy 
condition. Sponging by band is a slow process, 
»ud seldom more than partially effective. It is 
mach better, where it can be done, to take the 
Hants out of the houses and syringe them freely 
vith insecticide, as, if the work is well done, all 
the interstices in the leaves and bark where the 
eggs and larvae are hid are reached. Care should 
■■s taken to keep roof plants as free as can be 
iora such insects as brown or white scale or 
nealy bug, for where these exist to any extent 
n climbers overhead, they are certain tobecom- 
nnnicated to every plant underneath them on 
which they will live. It is well, sis far as possible, 
fo select climbers for roof decoration that do 
not afford acceptable food to these pests, for 
although there are bnt few plants on which 
»me or other of the numerous insects existant 

Digitized by GOOgle 


will not live, yet there is much difference in this 
respect. 

Lilies. —Where a good stock of these are 
grown in pots they are most useful in conserva¬ 
tories; plants of L. eximium that have done 
flowering must be well supplied with water so 
long as the foliage remains green; they may 
then be planted out in well prepared soil, as they 
are not likely to bloom much a second time 
where at all forced until they have had a season 
or two to recruit their strength. L. auratum and 
other species require to be similarly attended to 
in the matter of water, also to be kept free from 
aphides, as on the retention of the leaves until 
the bulb growth is fully completed depends their 
well-being in future. L. giganteum, though 
mostly planted out in the open ground, will, if 
well managed, attain a larger size and produce 
more flowers in a pot; but it does not usually 
increase so well in this way by the production 
of suckers. Where this fine Lily is grown in 
pots, I have found it best to turn it out of them 
immediately the blooming is over, giving plenty 
of water if dry weather ensues. Plants of the 
different varieties of L. speciosum should have 
the stems supported with sticks before they get 
too far advanced, and in carrying out this 
operation with Lilies, care ought to be taken not 
to injure the bulbs ; through want of caution in 
this much mischief is often done. 

Abutilons. — A sufficient stock of these 
should always be kept up. Independent of their 
decorative value as pot plants, their continuous 
habit of flowering is not surpassed by many 
things which are as easily grown. Their ability 
to flower through the winter if accommodated 
with a little extra warmth is a still further 
recommendation. The white variety, Boule de 
Neige, is so useful for cutting, that it deserves a 
place everywhere where winter flowers are in 
demand. It blooms in a very small state; plants 
of all the varieties struck from cuttings put in 
now and wintered in small pots will make useful 
blooming stock next summer. 

Genistas.— Small or medium-sized examples 
of these are much more useful than large 
specimens; their easy propagation and thelittle 
difficulty involved in their after treatment is 
such as to make them deserving of much more 
general cultivation than they receive. Presuming 
that the plants are now out-of-doors, any shoots 
that show a disposition to outgrow the rest 
should be cut back, but no attempt ought to be 
made to keep them too formal by pinching in 
the whole of the branches, as is sometimes done, 
which gives them an over-stiff appearance. In 
the case of young, thriving examples of these 
Genistas, where the pots are small and have got 
full of roots, they should be frequently supplied 
with dressings of light manure or manure water, 
and as they are liable to the attacks of red 
spider they ought to be syringed over every 
evening in dry weather. 

Ferns.—W here there are structures devoted 
to Ferns, and a portion of the larger species are 
planted out, attention from time to time Bhould 
be given in keeping the larger growing kinds 
from encroaching too much upon the weaker 
habited sorts. This is especially needful where 
many of the stronger sorts with creeping 
rhizomes exist. These if strong and not cheoked 
soon extend in all directions; this can be 
corrected by cnttiDg the fronds, which so far 
reduces strength as to prevent their spreading 
too fast. The rhizomes or creeping stems may 
also be shortened, which will cause them to 
break back and induce a closer, more compact 
condition. One of the mistakes committed in 
the cultivation of the tree species of Ferns is 
giving them too much root room, either when 
planted out or when grown in pots or boxes; 
in both cases when accompanied by more 
artificial heat than requisite it invariably induces 
a greater extension of the fronds than is 
admissible within the limits of a plant house, 
unless where it is much larger than usual, the 
result being that the strong growers smother the 
weaker ones, and the interest attached to the 
collection is reduced by the smaller number of 
kinds grown. But where plants of these large 
growing kinds have had their roots confined 
within a limited space for any considerable 
length of time they should have frequent 
soakings with manure water during t he growing 
season ; when sufficiently supplied in this way 
they can be kept for years in a satisfactory 
condition. Liquid manure, or moderate dressings 


of some of the light manures now so much in 
use for applying to the surface of pot plants, 
answer well for most of the small growing 
kinds of Ferns, such as the Adiantums, Pteris, 
Davallias, and others of a like character. In 
Fern culture no more artificial heat should ever 
be used than absolutely necessary, for it not 
only makes the fronds unduly tender, but also 
renders them much more susceptible to thrips. 
Where these are present it is best to dip or 
syringe with Tobacco water, as when fumiga¬ 
tion is resorted to strong enough to kill the 
thrips it usually is more than the plants can 
bear. 

Flower garden. 

General work.— At present there is but 
little to be done that calls for special remark, the 
principal requirements being the preservation of 
neatness by regularly mowing lawns, clipping 
edgings, and weeding and rolling walks. Bedding 
plants will now be in their full dress, and in 
order that they may continue so, keep them well 
supplied with water, removing all useless flowers 
at least once a week. Trailing kinds will require 
the same periodical attention as to regulating 
their growth, either by pegging down or training 
to sticks, as the case may be. Single Dahlias 
and other tall growers planted as “ sentinels ” 
amongst lower growing plants may need a 
portion of their growth curtailed, both to pre¬ 
serve symmetry and to prevent them from en¬ 
croaching too much on dwarfer plants. Keep 
carpet beds trim. Herniariaglabra rarely needs 
clipping, and this merit renders it the best of 
all plants for forming a green groundwork, 
edgings, and intersecting lines in this class of 
bedding. The dwarf Sedums and Saxifrages 
only require the flowers to be kept off them and 
to be pressed down with the hand to make them 
spread evenly. On herbaceous borders old 
flowers of Pyrethrums, Mallows, Delphiniums, 
Spirseas, and many others need cutting off; 
sticks also should be taken away, and the ground 
about such plants should be “ pointed ” over. 
Roses are in full bloom, and almost daily now 
there are numbers of decaying flowers that for 
the benefit of the plants would be better off ; 
shorten also vigorous shoots, keep the plants well 
watered and washed, and then expect a good 
autumn bloom. 

Spbing flowers. —Where spring gardening 
is done, no time must he lost in getting up a 
supply of the very earliest-flowering plants that 
have proved hardy enough to withstand the last 
few winters, for unless a plant is really hardy 
it is of but little use for the purpose in question, 
as our springs are even more trying to plant life 
than onr winters. The white and variegated 
Arabia, the purple Aubrietia, Myosotis dissitiflora, 
Daisies (red, white, and Aucuba leaved). 
Gentians, Auriculas, Primroses, Pansies, and 
Polyanthuses are always satisfactory. These 
should be divided and planted in nursery beds to 
make good plants by October. Wallflowers, 
Stocks, and Honesty should be planted in single 
rows from the seed-bed before they get drawn 
up weakly. There are also many kinds of 
annualB which if treated so as to make them 
biennials, viz , by sowing them teo late to flower 
during the current year, make excellent early 
spring flower beds. The exact date of sowing 
varies as regards different varieties, and also as 
respects early or late localities, but as a rule the 
beginning of September is soon enough to sow, 
as if too forward they suffer from severe frosts, 
and in mild winters they continue to grow all 
through the winter. Saponaria calabrica, Silene 
pendula, S. ruberrima, and S. pseudoatocion, 
Nemophilas. Limnanthes Donglasi, and Col- 
linsias are amongst the most useful, but there 
are many others that do well treated in the 
same way. 

PANSIES and Violas.— Continue to propagate 
under hand-glasses or cloches Pansies and Violas, 
for under anything like good treatment they are 
all-the-year-round flowers, as they only cease 
blooming when exhausted. The earliest struck 
cuttings of such kinds as the Cliveden Blue, 
Yellow, and Purple will now be rooted suffi¬ 
ciently to be transplanted on to a good rich open 
piece of ground, when, if kept moist at the roots, 
they will become good plants, full of bloom-bud? 
in the autumn, and in mild winters they wi’ 
continue to open a few blossoms and be qu 
fall of bloom with the earliest Snowdrops 
other hardy bulbs. 

Climbers _Regulate the growthsof cl ! 


216 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Jui.v 14, 1883. 


plants, and support them as required. Clematis 
Jackmani is as usual producing a cloud of 
blossom ; it is still one of the best. Among the 
largest flowered section C. lanuginosa is also 
excellent; it looks well trained thinly amongst 
other climbers. We have masses of its large 
mauve blossoms peeping out amongst the foliage 
of Wistarias, the two associating extremely well 
together. The tallest varieties of Tropreolum 
will now be making a fine display; they are 
valuable as temporary screens for hiding un¬ 
sightly objects, being of rapid growth and ex¬ 
tremely gay when in flower. 


Fruit. 

Vinks. —The general thinning having been 
brought to a close. Lady Downes, Alicantes, and 
other late kinds intended to hang on the Vines 
until after Christmas will be improved by having 
the scissors passed over them again for the re¬ 
moval of imperfectly fertilised berries, and at 
the same time the shoulders should be carefully 
raised and tied up to allow a free passage of air 
when the leaves are falling in the autumn. To 
ensure the proper ripening of these kinds by the 
end of September a night temperature of 68° to 
70° with a corresponding rise by day should be 
given, and if this cannot be obtained from solar 
heat, gentle firing at the present time, while it 
increases the size of the berries, will be found 
more economical and beneficial to the Vines than 
sharp forcing with double the amount of fuel 
in the autumn, when they should be sufficiently 
matured to require cool treatment. Muscats 
having their principal roots in internal borders, 
and now beginning to take their last swelling, 
should be well mulched with short stable manure, 
the ammonia from which will keep red spider in 
check, while the stimulating matter carried down 
by surface waterings will feed and draw the 
roots to the influence of the high temperature so 
essential to the perfect colour and finish of this 
fine Grape. Vines in early and mid-season houses 
must be thoroughly cleansed as they are cleared 
of fruit, as future success depends upon the 
maintenance of clean, healthy foliage until the 
bunch-producing buds for another year are per¬ 
fected. 

Melons. —Plants in pits and frames swelling 
off fruit will now take an abundance of water at 
the roots. In cold, wet weather it is not advisable 
to water overhead in these structures, where the 
plants are more subject to canker than when 
grown in houses, and spider does not make so 
much headway ; but advantage may be taken of 
a fine afternoon for flooding the bed with water 
at a temperature of 85° to 90° without wetting 
the foliage, and closing about half-past three, 
when the atmospheric moisture will produce 
conditions highly favourable to the rapid de¬ 
velopment of the fruit. Pay particular attention 
to the preservation of the old leaves, as they can¬ 
not be interfered with without producing a check, 
and give them full exposure to sun and light by 
cutting away all lateral growths and keeping 
the glass clean. Elevate the fruit on inverted 
pots on a level with, but not above, the foliage, 
as some kinds are liable to become discoloured 
when they change for ripening if night airing is 
neglected. Attend well to the linings by turning 
and renovating with fresh manure before the 
heat in the bed shows signs of declining, cover 
with good dry mats, and give a chink of night 
air to prevent an accumulation of rank steam and 
condensation of moiBture on the fruit. Refer to 
previous calendars for directions as to the 
management of Melons in houses and heated 
pits. Get out young plants before they become 
pot-bound, and make a good sowing of some 
quick fruiting kind for coming in in October. 
Meantime prepare a light, well-ventilated, 
efficiently heated pit for the reception of the 
plants. If bottom heat pipes are provided, the 
fruiting pots should be plunged within their in¬ 
fluence when extra warmth is required for setting 
and ripening the fruit, but until the nights be¬ 
come longer fermenting material will produce a 
moist heat, in which Melons will revel through 
the early stages of their growth. 

Vegetables. 

WE are now busy gathering fruit, and so far 
as bush fruits and Strawberries go the crops are 
very heavy. Keep the ground free from weeds 
among all crops, hoeing or using the cultivator 
as the case may be. Among Peas, Standard, Marie, 
and John Bull are now in full bearing ; the last 
is a trifle longer in the pod than the others, and 

Digitized by GOOgle 


the quality good. If one has these three and 
Omega for use in August and September few 
others will be needed. If Endive is not yet sown 
it may be put in now ; nothing is gained by sow¬ 
ing very early, as the young plants generally run 
to seed. Any ground falling vacant Bhould at 
once be re-cropped with Cauliflowers, Broccoli, 
Kales, or Coleworts ; no preparation is necessary 
except clearing it of weeds, as, without excep¬ 
tion, all the Cabbage tribe do best in firm soils. 
Should there be any occasion, through drought, 
to water these plants, it is most effectively done 
when they are planted in drills, and this being 
our invariable rule, we are able to recommend 
the practice, and it also renders unnecessary 
high ridging up. The last planting of Celery 
should now be got out; ground that has been 
cleared of early Peas, Spinach, &o., is usually in 
good heart for thus late planting. Throw out 
shallow trenches—single spit only—2 feet wide 
and 3 feet apart, dig in the trench the best 
manure that can be bad, and plant out double 
lines of plants at 9 inches from each other ; well 
water and mulch with manure; they will then 
require no further attention till earthing up is 
needed. This operation will now be necessary in 
the case of the earliest planted, prior to which 
thoroughly soak with manure water, or, in lieu, 
sprinkle guano between the plants and water 
it in. Shallots are ripening fast; ours are planted 
in drills filled with burnt refuse, and in this no 
grubs or other vermin ever attack them, not even 
mildew, and the result is a clean, healthy crop. 
Garlic, Shallots, and Potato Onions lift dry 
and store in a dry dark shed; lightly fork over 
the ground they have occupied, and sow it with 
French Horn Carrots, Turnips, and Radishes 
for autumn and early winter use. Sow Cabbages 
for autumn planting; for several years our main 
plot has followed Onions. As soon as these are 
cleared off, the ground is freed of weeds, drills 
are drawn as mentioned above, and inasmuch as 
we never have had a bad plantation it is clear 
that more elaborate culture is unnecessary. Of 
course the ground is always extra well prepared 
for Onions, and in cases where this is not done 
it would be desirable to dig and manure before 
planting the Cabbage—operations for which 
there is little time compared with the winter 
months, and this is another reason for adopting 
the practice of extra culture for Onions, and 
making it serve for Cabbages also. Make 
another sowing of Lettuces and Endive; thin 
out those previously sown, and if necessary 
transplant, though the better plan is always to 
sow thinly where they are to mature, and to thin 
out to the proper distance as soon as large 
enough to handle. Ridge Cucumbers, Vegetable 
Marrows, and Tomatoes should be gone over at 
least once each week for the purpose of regu¬ 
lating, training, and stopping their growths, 
and, in the case of Marrows and Cucumbers, 
surface-soiling whenever the roots appear on the 
surface. 

Cucumbebs. — If a heated compartment, 
perhaps now filled with Melons, will be at 
liberty in about three weeks, the present time 
will be favourable for sowing a few seeds of 
Telegraph or some other favourite kind for 
autumn fruiting. Be careful to thoroughly 
cleanse the house, as Melons invariably leave 
an unwelcome legacy behind them. Also 
prepare the necessary fermenting material for 
giving bottom heat. Have it well worked before 
it is taken in, and defer plunging the fruiting 
pots or making the ridges until all danger of 
burning the soil has passed away. Make 
frequent additions of light, rich turf to the 
roots of plants which have been in bearing for 
some time, feed copiously with clear liquid, and 
water occasionally with warm clarified lime 
water to keep the hills free from worms. Plants 
in frames now in full bearing will require 
unremitting attention if they are to be kept in 
good order for any length of time. Dress them 
over three times a week and earth up with 
lumps of rich turf and old lime rubble as the 
roots find their way to the surface. Attend to 
the linings, as want of bottom heat is often the 
forerunner of canker and mildew in frames 
where the plants have been started well and 
afterwards neglected. When the oldest plants 
show signs of exhaustion, take one or two lights 
in hand, cut out all the fruit and old leaves, peg 
the vines down on the hills, pack the joints with 
pieces of fresh turf, and keep the frame close, 
moist, and shaded until new growth sets in. 

,T. S. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

Even in the heart of the smokiest towns there 
will be a good show of summer flowering and 
bedding plants, if the directions given in this 
journal have been regularly carried out, and a 
fair amount of care and trouble expended. 

Out-of-doors the usual routine of cutting grass, 
trimming, weeding, and watering is almost all 
that is needful, but these simple matters alone 
will take up a considerable amount of time in a 
fair or even moderate-sized garden; just at this 
time, indeed, they are all important, for neatness 
and nicety in these respects are quite as con¬ 
ducive to the enjoyment of a garden as well- 
grown plants and choice flowers. 

It is high time now to sow seeds of Wall¬ 
flowers in variety, for early flowering next 
spring. Of course, there are many places where 
it is no use attempting these, but in most su¬ 
burban gardens Wallflowers will make a very 
good display, with a rich soil and a little care. 
Sow also Sweet Williams and other biennials for 
the next year's display. Among these, Inter¬ 
mediate Stocks should not be forgotten; these 
will succeed capitally almost anywhere, espe¬ 
cially if they can be wintered in a cool 
frame. Attend well to the staking of Dahlias 
and any other plants that require support in 
good time. Dahlias, if grown 6trong, and in 
good rich soil, seldom need any stopping ; all 
that is necessary is to cut out the side shoots 
when these are too freely produced. Syringe 
these and Chrysanthemums overhead frequently 
in hot weather, and stimulate the roots by fre¬ 
quent doses of liquid manure. The last week in 
this month is the latest time for stopping Chry¬ 
santhemums ; if strong, however, they will fre¬ 
quently branch naturally during the month of 
August. All should now be in their flowering 
pots, and when well rooted out liberally supplied 
with liquid manure. 

In the greenhouse. Fuchsias and zonal Pelar¬ 
goniums alone will produce a grand display, and 
if supplemented by a few Petunias, Begonias, 
Hydrangeas, Lantanas, Plumbagoes, &c., there 
can be no lack of bright blossoms. Water is 
now best given late in the evening, and a little 
night ventilation is of great use in causing a 
sturdy growth. Seedling Gloxinias potted some 
time ago will now be showing bloom ; it is not 
yet too late to pot healthy plants for flowering 
this Beason. Keep these, also Calceolarias, 
Cinerarias, Abutilons, and others for winter 
flowering growing on quickly—B. C. R. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


HARDY FLOWERS FOR EXHIBITIONS. 

So little are genuine hardy plants and cut 
flowers of hardy plants favoured at flower shows 
generally, that it would seem as if the time had 
come for the creation of a society that should 
have for its objects the encouragement of hardy- 
plant culture, by means of exhibitions and other 
methods, in the same way that Dahlias, Pelar¬ 
goniums, and some other things are upheld. 
Those well known trade growers, Messrs, T. Ware, 
of Tottenham, and Barr & Sons, of London, 
favoured the visitors at the recent show of the: 
Pelargonium Society at South Kensington with 
some remarkable evidenoes of the singularly 
beautiful and interesting effects that can be got 
out of collections of hardy flowers; and beautiful: 
as the Pelargoniums were, they at least were 
entirely lacking that remarkable interest which 
attached to these groups. If the Messrs. Barr 
covered most space, Mr. Ware had by far the 
greatest variety, indeed his collection was one 
of the finest and most varied ever seen at a 
London or probably any other show. Taking 
a rough survey of the colours fonnd in the 
flowers, I noted of blues those beautiful Del¬ 
phiniums azureum. Lord Mayor, double purplish 
blue; Life Guardsman, very rich bine; Cantab 
pale blue; Conspicua, a brilliant blue; and James 
Helmore, double pale bine, with several others 
also several blue and pnrple members of th< 
Campanula family, making splendid bunches 
various Irises, Alliums, Ac. Then of whites then 
were Liliums candidum and longiflorum, am 
auratum; double white French Rocket; loft 
tufts of Spirsea aruncus, and tall spikes of Care 
panula persicifolia alba and grandis alt>r 
both very effective; Gladiolus The Britj, 
a lovely thing; Ox-eye Daisies, now 
cognised decorative flowers; Ornithogal tar 
latifolium, white Iris, and specially the yello-wis 



Jeit 14, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


217 


white to ochroleuca major, a beautiful form; 
taete of that good double pink, Mrs. Sinkins, 
mi nrious other flowers. Red flowers were 
tad in tbe rich coloured Martagon and Pom- 
pniarn Lilies, and very effective indeed were 
Iter; in various members of the showy Lychnis 
ftoiir,including bunches of the bright male Pink 
lychnis viscaria splendens plena, also Centran- 
taniber ; varieties of Gladioli of the ramosus 
section, and all singularly beautiful; Derby Day, 
lord Lyon, Ascot, Anne Boleyn, and other 
Finkcgrand clusters of scarlet Poppies; Phloxes, 
ftnstemons, double scarlet Geums, Pyrethrums, 
Ims, in great variety, Ac. The chief yellow 
hios were found in long, trailing clusters of the 
beautiful hardy Tropteolum polypbyllum, the 
tommon Chrysanthemum segetnm, or Cornflower, 
rally most effective; Li'ium colchicum, Mimu- 
ht Tilingi, Ac. ; whilst various other hues were 
tad in particoloured Pinks, Cypripedium spec- 
labile, red and white; Dielytra spectabile, and 
■moons other good things. 

The Messrs. Barr's group was remarkable for 
thebeautif al variety of English Trisesit included, 
loocgst which the deep blue La Vierge was a 
grand feature; La Charinante, lavender-blue; 
md Diana, white ground, heavily striped with 
maroon, were also singularly beautiful. Pteonies 
were also grand flowers, white, flesh, rose, and 
deep red in colour, and all very effective. The 
arly blooming sections of Gladioli were also 
largely represented, and all varied aDd beautiful. 
Ixia!, Ranunculuses, and many of the fine 
thing? named in Mr. Ware's list, made up a 
wondrous group. It is no exaggerated phrase 
to say that both these collections were worth 
going a hundred miles to see. A. D. 

LARKSPURS. 

(DELPHINIUMS). 

These are deserving of cultivation in every 
garden. The great variety of their heights, 
raying, as they do, in this respect, from 1 foot 
to S feet high; the equally great variety of 



Delphinium elatum. 


lifeir shades of colour, from almost scarlet to 
pore white, from the palest and most chaste 


krender up through every conceivable shade of 
bite to deep indigo : and the very considerable 
mriety of size and form of their individual 
hlnotns, some of which are single, semi-double, 


inti perfectly double, and set on spikes ranging 
Item 1 foot to 6 feet in length, render them 


Ejects of great value as decorative border 
Nants ; and for cutting, either in immense spikes 
hr some forms of decoration or in smaller lateral 
»igs for bouquets and vases, they are most 
kefnl. The combinations in which they can be 
taed in borders are numerous. When planted 
* back up a mixed border the effect of the 
Iklphiniums and any light-foliaged or flowering 
fant is very charming. Delphiniums are, of 
nurse, perfectly hardy, and can be cultivated 
w any ordinary garden soiL-^They are propa- 


o^-^hey 


.gie 


gated from cuttings detached from stools when 
6 inches high, or when the stools become large 
they can be lifted and divided like any 
ordinary herbaceous plant.. The ground for 
them should be rich, open, and deep. When 
young plants are planted out in spring in soils 
where slugs abound, the buds or crowns are apt 
to be devoured by them in winter; consequently 
it is well, under such circumstances, to lift them 
and lay them in for the winter in some sandy 
soil in a comer, where they can be more con¬ 
veniently seen to. This is only necessary until 
they form large and vigorous stools. It is well 
to lift them every two or three years and 
thoroughly work the ground, adding some leaf- 
mould or manure, and then to replant them. 
This is best done about the time the crowns 
begin to move in early spring. In favourable 
seasons, if they are not allowed to seed, they 
generally throw up a second crop of flowers late 
in the season; and the spikes beiDg smaller and 
more twiggy, they are then most valuable for 
cutting as well as effective in the borders. Del¬ 
phiniums are now in fine bloom, and anyone 
requiring to select the best kinds should visit 
some of the large hardy plant nurseries at once. 
When the flowers begin to fade in July, the 
stems should be cut down to the ground and tbe 
plants have a good soaking of water, they will 
then throw up fresh spikes of flowers in autumn. 
A packet of good seed sown in May or June will 
produce good plants for flowering in the follow¬ 
ing year. 

Propagating hardy plants.— Prepare 
a bed of sandy loam and leaf-mould some 
5 inches or 6 inches in depth in a shady comer, 
place a frame over it to ensure a close atmo¬ 
sphere, and take the cuttings as they can be 
obtained, commencing with Antirrhinums, Pent- 
stemons. Phloxes—in short, anything that has 
green shoots just hardening a little will strike 
freely. Many hardy border plants can also be 
increased rapidly by division in autumn or 
spring, and therefore in a busy season like this 
perhaps one would not trouble to take cuttings, 
but there are always many things which one 
would like to increase in order to have plants 
for use and to spare if need be. Carnations, 
Picotees, and Pinks will strike very well in a 
shady frame. I have propagated them in that 
way for years. Time is thus saved, and I 
always think the plants are better than raised in 
any other way. Layering is the old plan, and 
cultivators are very conservative, but there is 
certainly nothing gained by preferring layers to 
cuttings. I have often seen cottagers take up 
their old white Pinks, pull them to pieces, and 
plant the pieces in autumn, and the same with 
the old Clove Carnations. I think that for 
ordinary decorative purposes the directions for 
piping Pinks and layering Carnations in books 
on gardening are needlessly complicated. 
Experience is the best teacher, and anyone who 
doubts what I am saying may satisfy himself by 
experiments on an old plant or two. All the 
spring bedding plants will strike now, such as 
Aubrietia, Arabis, &c. This is a good time to sow 
seeds of perennials and biennials, such as Fox¬ 
gloves, Hollyhocks,Canterbury Bells, and things 
of that character. Sow in pans and place them 
in a cool, close frame ; keep them fresh, moist, 
and let them be shaded in the hottest part of 
the day. Pots or pans containing seeds if they 
stand in full sunshine dry up so fast and require 
so mnch water, that it sours the soil and makes 
it unhealthy before the seeds have a chance to 
germinate. This is one reason why many seeds 
fail to grow, or if they do grow the plants come 
up weakly, and are a loDg time in acquiring 
strength. In sowing Hollyhocks or Foxgloves 
where only limited numbers are required, some 
pains should be taken in preparing the bed, and 
covering the seeds with light, sandy soil that 
will not become hard.—H. 

9888.— Spring bulbs after flowering.— 
I have never found cutting off the foliage after 
flowering do any harm to bulbs, and I generally 
lay the bulbs out in a nice, dry, airy place to 
ripen. When planting bulbs in the open border 
—Hyacinths especially—that have bloomed the 
year previous in pots or gle^ses, I find they do 
much better if planted deeper than is usually 
done.—A. M. 

9919.—Ten-week Stocks.—These plants 
resent transplantation. To insure success they 
should be taken straight from the seed-bed, pan, 


or box to their final quarters with as short an 
exposure as possible, first saturating the soil 
around the seedlings with water to avoid 
damaging the rootlets. This treatment is 
scarcely possible with purchased plants, and a safer 
course is to grow your own from seed. Mine sown 
in April in the open air in a shallow box, and 
planted out a month ago, are now* sturdy 
plants showing well for bloom. When first 
planted out shade during the day for a fortnight 
with small pots, removing them when the snn 
is off.—C. G. M. 

Flowers and plants in rooms.— 

Now that there is a wealth of Roses, the best 
ways of combining them should be carefully 
considered. A great bowl of mixed Roses, even 
if put together without thought, is a beautiful 
thing, but they are much more beautiful if the 
colours are carefully chosen and the flowers well 
grouped. The scarlet and darkest shades go 
grandly together, and a number of the best pink 
Roses, such as La France, Marie Finger, Eug6nie 
Verdier, and Captain Christy, of slightly varic d 
and yet nearly related colouring, carefully 
placed in a wide bowl of palest blue oriental 
china, form a picture of Rose beauty such as cr n 
hardly be excelled. A fine effect is given by a 
tureen of bine Delft filled with orange-colourea 
Eschscholtzias cut long and short. A tall glass 
holds white Lilies, with the rosy Spiraea pal mat a 
and Funkia leaves; another large glass has amass 
of Canterbury Bells, white and pink. A few blooms 
of pure white Iris Kasmpferi stand alone in a 
slender Venetian glass; orange Lilies are in a 
blue china jar seen against an ebony cabinet. 
A large bunch of variously-coloured Alstrce- 
merias, cut 2 feet long, are arranged with foliage 
of Bocconia cordata. The yellow juice of 
freshly-cut Bocconia stains the water; it is 
therefore desirable to stand it aside in water for 
a time before it is wanted for use. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS. 

Chrysanthemums are perhaps the most use¬ 
ful of early winter flowers, as they only need 
the protection of a glass roof in order to have a 
good display up to Christmas. Where early 
struck cuttings have been carefully attended to, 
they will now be busy little plants in 7-inch or 
8-inch pots fit for transferring into their flower¬ 
ing pots. Good specimens may be grown in 
10-inch or 11-inch pots. The compost we use is 
tuTf from an old pasture, cut about 4 inches 
thick, pulled in pieces, and mixed with dry cow 
or old hotbed manure and sand. The plants 
must not be over-watered until they have become 
well rooted, when t hey can hardly have too much. 
We set them on a bed of coal ashes, kept damp 
by syringing after hot days. Small plants for 
decoration may yet be secured by using the tops 
of old plants for cuttings; if half-a-dozen are put 
in a 4-inch pot they make useful little plants, 
more especially the small flowered or Pompone 
varieties. 

Zonal Pelargoniums are undoubtedly des¬ 
tined to be more valued for winter than for 
summer flowering. The brilliant scarlets, crim¬ 
sons, salmons, pinks, whites, &c., are really 
charming in mid-winter. No time should now 
be lost in getting them into their flowering pots, 
as they must be well rooted. Old plants cut back arc 
the most floriferous, but youDg spring-struck 
cuttings produce the finest trusses of bloom, and 
it is well to have abundance of them in small 
pots for all kinds of indoor decorations. But a 
few years ago scarlet Pelargoniums in bloom at 
Christmas were looked upon as novelties; now 
they are indispensable. Keep them in an open, 
sunny position in order to get the growth well 
matured, and pick off all blooms as they appear. 
Any free flowering variety of the Vesuvius type 
may be utilised for winter decoration. Cold pits 
are the best summer quarters for them, keeping 
them exposed except to heavy rains, when the 
lights should be put over them, but tilted up at 
the back ; towards autumn when the nights get 
cold they will be more in request. In Septem¬ 
ber the plants must be removed to a light, well 
ventilated house, and allowed to perfect their 
flower-spikes. 

Primulas of the single Chinese class will now 
need shifting into their flowering pots; a light 
rich compost and plenty of drainage are the chief 



218 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[July 14, 1883. 


essentials as regards successful culture. Be care¬ 
ful not to pot too deeply; rather steady the 
plants by means of wooden pegs put in all round 
the stem, and be very careful as regards shading 
and watering. Pinch out all flower-spikes as 
they appear, and never let the soil get dry, or 
the"rays of bright sunshine to reach the plant. 
A cold pit or frame set on coal ashes will form 
good summer quarters for them. The double 
varieties succeed those raised from seed, and 
come in well for cutting. The later sowings for 
spring will now need pricking oft into 2|-inch 
pots, and another batch should be sown for the 
latest supply. 

Violets planted out in beds in April will 
now need frequent attention in the way of 
cleaning; stir the surface, and cut off all run¬ 
ners with a pair of Grape scissors. Water freely 
in dry weather, and syringe overhead after hot 
days. Bed spider is the very worst of enemies 
so far as Violets are concerned, and no pains 
should be spared to keep it in subjection. The 
Neapolitan, Marie Louise, and Czar are amongst 
the most useful sorts. 


Celosia fyramidalis is another excellent 
winter-flowering plant. The produce of seed 
sown in March will now be nice stocky plants, 
which must always be shifted before the pots 
get very full of roots so as to keep them growing 
freely. Pinch out the flowers as they appear. 
A compost similar to that given to Primulas suits 
them perfectly. Keep them in a moist, close 
temperature; that of a pit partially filled with 
tan or leaves (to plunge in) suits them well. 

Salyias, such as S. splendens, 8. Heeri, and 
others, will now do out-of-doors, or in cold pits 
from which the ligh'.s can be removed on all 
favourable occasions. Keep them well supplied 
with water at the roots, and syringe after bright 
days. Pinch out the points of the shoots in 
order to induce a bushy habit, and do not let 
the plants become starved, or the lower leaves 
will turn yellow and drop. Where roots are 
abundant liquid manure may be freely given. 

Tree Carnations bloom well in winter; 
where cuttings of them were put in early they 
will now be fit for potting off singly into 3-inch 
pots. I find that young plants struck annually 
in spring yield the best results, but old plants 
grown on will continue to yield a snceession of 
flowers for nearly the entire season. Be careful 
to secure good drainage, as anything like stag¬ 
nant moisture about the roots soon proves fatal to 
them. Fibry loam, or turf, a little peat, leaf- 
mould, and sand suits Carnations well. They 
must be tied up to single stalks as growth pro¬ 
gresses. Cold pits suit them best in summer, 
keeping the lights quite off them on all favourable 
occasions, but putting them on on the occurrence 
of heavy rains or storms. The small flowered 
varieties, of which Miss Joliffe is the type, are 
the best. 


Bouvardias have of late years become ex¬ 
tremely popular, and at no time are they more 
valuable than in winter. Old plants cut back and 
repotted will now be making rapid growth, and 
must be pinched to induce a dense, bushy growth, 
as every shoot formed now produces flower-heads. 
Cuttings recently put in must be grown on for 
late flowering, keeping them in warm, moist 
quarters, but old plants should soon be gradually 
hardened off, so that in August they may be 
benefited by full exposure to the open air. Where 
cut flowers are in much request, especially for 
bouquets, Bouvardias are indispensable, espe¬ 
cially the white varieties. 

Euphorbia jacquini-eflora.— The long, 
arching spikes of brilliant scarlet flowers of this 
plant are very beautiful, and when these are cut 
early a succession of small flowering sprays is 
produced. This Euphorbia is very useful as a 
pot plant from its habit of running up tall and 
.--lender, enabling cultivators to get tall flowering 
plants in very small pots. In order to induce 
branching out old plants must be pinched early, 
and in the case of young plants we put from 
four to six cuttings in a pot, and grow them on 
without stopping. 

Gesnebias when well grown are especially 
viluable for indoor decoration. They enjoy a 
subdued light in all stages of growth, aod there- 
f >re last longer in good condition in rooms than 
most plants. If their roots were started in boxes 
in March, they will now need shifting into their 
flowering pots. We find 5-inch and 8-inch pots 
sufficiently large-for good specimens, and they 


f 


fit nicely into ordinary vases. A compost con¬ 
sisting of peat, decayed turf, leaf-soil, and sand, 
suits them well, and they should have stove tem¬ 
perature and carefulshadingfrom bright sunshine. 
Keep them moist at the roots, and the atmosphere 
should also be moist, but do not wet the foliage. 
We find Gesneria zebrina, G. z. splendens, and G. 
cinnabarina to be the most useful sorts for winter 
decoration. 

Mignonette must not be forgotten, for al¬ 
though not showy-, its perfume at all times is 
delightful. If not already done, sow at once in 
4-inch pots and set them in a cold frame. Small 
pots are most useful for flower-stands. If larger 
specimens are desired the seed must be sown 
early, and the plants potted on to ensure rapid 
growth, picking out the flower-heads as often as 
they form. The older kind of Mignonette is, 
however, likely to be superseded for pot culture 
by the new double flowered white that does not 
produce seed, and which is a most continuous 
flowerer and very fragrant and beautiful. 

Orchids of certain kinds, such as Calanthe 
vestita, C. Veitchi, the Cypripediums, or Lady’s 
Slippers, and many others are real friends for 
supplying quantities of flowers at the right time, 
and are of such easy culture that anyone having 
a warm greenhouse can hardly fail in growing 
them. For making button-hole and other bou¬ 
quets the Oalanthes are specially well adapted. 

_ G. J. M. 

Tree Carnations. — Among the many 
articles in Gardening on different subjects, I 
do not think enough has been said about Tree 
Carnations, Souvenir de la Malmaison, white and 
pink, and Lady Middleton, the last two sports 
from the first. These splendid flowers are too 
little grovfn, and to many are not even known. 
A short notice of the treatment they require 
would be the means of inducing many of your 
readers to cultivate this magnificent flower. I 
enclose a bloom of Lady Middleton to show how 
we can grow them in the north.— John Leckie. 
[The bloom sent was very fine, and measured 
quite 9 inches in circumference. We hope Mr. 
Leckie will carry out his suggestion, and tell 
us how he grows them —Ed ] 

9914.— Petunias and Geraniums fall¬ 
ing. In this case where the greenhouse has a 
cemented floor, and where nearly all plants 
except Fuchsias refuse to bloom, it would seem 
as if the house alone can be in fault, and that 
either there is something in the cement — 
some objectionable exhalation which arises 
from the floor—that is productive of the 
evil, or else that the house is far too much 
in the shade. Petunias and Geraniums 
not only need plenty of warmth and sunshine, 
but positively revel in it, whilst without they 
do badly. The same may be said of many other 
plants. If the house really lacks light and sun¬ 
shine, it would be wiser to grow in it only 
Fuchsias, which seem to do well, also Ferns and 
any other shade loving plant. No doubt the Camel¬ 
lias and Azaleas have failed to ripen their shoots, 
and thus they fail to carry bloom.—A. 

9946.— Semi-double Pelargoniums.— 
The following is a list of the best semi-double 
Pelargoniums, viz.: Scarlet: F. V. Rispail, 
Jewel, Serg. Hcff, Dauntless, Plaisancon, and 
Wonderful. Jtose and pink : Madame Thebaut. 
Clara Pfitzer, Rosa Bonheur, Croesus, The Lord 
Mayor. Violet ; Paul Bert. Cerise and orange- 
scarlet: Lord Cedi, President Leon Simon, M. 
Gelein Lowagie. Crimson and magenta: Ma¬ 
genta Ring, Souvenir de Carpeux, Laccena, 
Hero, Representant Baudin, General Campenon. 
Salmon: Carillon, J. P. Stahl, Henri Beurier, 
Louis Buchner. White: Flocon de Neige, La 
Niagara, Nymphe, Madame Leon Dalloy, and 
alba perfecta.— H. Jab. Goddard. 

9941. — Chrysanthemums _All these 

plants should now be in the open air and in the 
full blaze of the sun, but the pots should be 
plunged in ashes to give the roots ample pro¬ 
tection from the heat. To have a late bloom it 
will be perhaps well to pinch the tops lightly at 
once, but if the plants are late, it will not be 
necessary. About August and then onward 
ample waterings with liquid manure must be 
given to produce good flower buds.—A. 

9952 — Arum Lily. —The correct name of 
this plant is Calla rcthiopica, although it has 
diverse names, some calling it llichardia rethio- 
pica. Generally, it is called Arum, as it is short 


and well understood. It prefers soil composed 
of good turfy loam two-thirds, and the rest peat, 
sand, and well-rotted manure. It is found good 
practice to turn the plants out of pots and plant 
in the open ground during the summer and re-lift 
in the autumn. A cool greenhouse does for the 
winter, and if not planted out in the summer 
the pots should be plunged in ashes or some 
other material, and the roots should be kept well 
supplied with water.—A. 

9954.— Dahlias in pots —Only Single or 
Bouquet Dahlias should be grown in pots, but 
very poor plants and blooms will be got out of 
those if 8 inches across only. 10-inch pots will 
give good results, but the plants will need good 
loamy soil, and as they grow, ample feediDg 
with manure water. The plants must be kept 
in the open or else they will become drawn and 
weakly.—A. 

9944.— Ethiopian Lily.— I have a plant 
2 feet 6 inches high, with six leaves measuring 
12 inches by 7 inches, and it has thrown up one 
very fine flower. This is growing in a 9-inch pot, 
in one-third rotten stable manure, and two- 
thirds sandy loam with a mulching of stable 
manure; it stands in a saucer always half full 
of water, its leaves are sponged weekly, and it 
is supplied with weak guano water twice weekly. 
It has been in a sunDy window, but will soon 
be plunged in the open air and well watered 
through the summer and autumn to ripen and 
swell the bulb.—C. G. M. 

0963. —Greenhouse climbers.— Lonicera semper- 
vtrena minor, Plumbago capensis, Heliotrope, Tropmolum 
Lobblanum perfectum, Rose Gloire de Dijon, and Cobea 
Bcandens are all free blooming greenhouse climbers, but 
perhaps the former, having scarlet flowers, Is the best. 
—A. 


VEGETABLES. 

Tomatoes In the open air.— In the 

case of the Tomato, training and pruning do 
much to ensure fruitfulness. There is, unless 
the growth is checked by pinching, a tendency- 
to over-luxuriance in the Tomato, which prevents 
the fruit ripening in the short period available 
for bringing the crop to perfection. Of late 
years, owing to the seasons being unfavourable. 
Tomatoes have only paid for their culture in the 
warmest and sunniest spots, and sometimes even 
then disease has seized upon the frnit and 
rendered it useless. The best way of treating 
Tomatoes is to confine their growth to a single 
stem; to leave on them all their main leaves, 
but rub off constantly all shoots springing from 
the stem, and so compel all progress to take 
place upwards only. Pinch out the leader one 
leaf or joint from the first cluster of flowers. 
This for the time being gives extra strength to 
the flowers, causing a better set, and giving an 
impetus to the early growth of the frnit. Soon, 
however, another shoot breaks away from the 
place where the leader was pinched. If more 
than one shoot starts, the weaker should be 
rubbed off, and all growth confined to one stem. 
Another truss of flowers will scon appear, when 
the leader should again be nipped off, and so on 
nntil the stem is laden all up with regularly 
placed bunches of fruit. In no other way can 
so much be made of Tomatoes in the same space, 
and after all the labour is not much. Simply- 
training the leader in without the stopping does 
not give so good a result. For home use I find 
Criterion a great favourite. Perhaps for sance 
making, some of the larger kinds might be more 
profitable, but Criterion is both early and 
prolific.—H. 

Carrots for market.— A large propor¬ 
tion of the long Surrey Carrots sold in Covent 
Garden are grown on the light sandy loams. 
Sowing commences about the beginning of May, 
and is continued at intervals of a week until 
June, as when it is a question of some twenty 
acres, they would not in a general way get hoed 
and thinned out in time were they all sown at 
once. A dripping June is good for carrots or 
light lands, as they are apt to suffer intensely 
from fly and drought in the seedling stage; vvhei 
fairly on the way, and have got well hold 
they do not so muoh mind a dry time, althougl 
a hot, dry summer means a short crop hert- 
whilst of the two it is favourable to the Esse; 
men, who on their stiff, clayey loams grow ; 
large quantity of the “ bushel "Carrots, so caller 
in contradistinction to the Surrey produce, whicl 
is always sent to market bunched. Having beer 
once “flat hoed," they are now being “ cut out 



Jclt 14, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


219 


—a tedious operation requiring experience and 
dexterity, which only the professional Carrot 
(mere can get through creditably. The hoeing is 
let hereabouts to experienced men at about £2 
jer acre, the contract being to “ keep them 
dean and cut them out"—not too much money 
for the work, as many of the men will tell you. 
Bitieet. 

9923.— Celery plants. —When youngplants 
get drawn in the seed pan they should be di bbled 
out thinly in a somewhat shaded spot in the 
garden, and have prepared for their reception a 
bed into which has been worked, but put under 
the surface, a heavy dressing of short manure. 
When so put ont the old leaves soon give place 
to new ones from the base of the plants, so that 
there is not much loss, the plants being but a 


probably, because they are usually described as 
peat-loving plants. It is true that they attain j 
greater perfection in a carefully-prepared soil 
than they do in a close, adhesive soil; but in 
this respect hardy Azaleas are less exacting than 
most Rhododendrons, and will flourish in places 
where Rhododendron ponticum grows freely. It 
is worth noting that most of the hardy Azaleas 
grow naturally in swampy places, but not 
necessarily in boggy ground. But the hybrid 
varieties commonly cultivated succeed well in 
light, thoroughly-drained soil. In the absence 
of peat, leaf-mould may be used, and where the 
soil is heavy, sand should be added. Of course, 
the proportions of leaf-mould and sand necessary 
or desirable depend entirely upon the nature of 
the soil upon which one has to operate j and a 


the Japanese Azalea, is a dwarf-growing kind, 
with waxy, well-formed flowers, which is highly 
effective in spring. 

The flowers are of various beautiful Bbades of 
colour and very showy. They are borne in fine 
trusses which often equal in size those of the 
ordinary Rhododendron. The plant is bushy- 
growing, deciduous, and perfectly hardy. The 
following are a few of the best varieties: 
Alphonse Lavallfie, bright orange, shaded to 
scarlet, spotted with citron ; Baron Ed. de Roths¬ 
child, dark red, spotted with yellow; Chevalier 
de Reali, straw white, merging into cream 
yellow; Comte de Gomer, lively rose, spotted 
with orange; Isabelle Van Houtte, dark nankeen, 
spotted with orange; Consul Pilcher, rose, spotted 
I with dark orange; Dr. Leon Vignes, white, 



Spray ot Azalea mollis. Drawn from specimens supplied rrom C'oombe Wood by Messrs. Veltch it Sons. 


week or two later. Seed may be raised very well 
in a room, bat of course the seedling plants will 
draw up a little until they can be put out-of- 
doors, when they will soon get sturdy and 
robust.— L>-_ 

TREES and shrubs 


HARDY AZALEAS. 


Iuesb are deciduous shrubs, which put forth 
fair flowers before the leaves, or the leaves and 
wers are developed simultaneously. Azaleas 
iay be classed in the first rank of deciduous 
hratm cultivated for the sake of their ornamen- 
•al flowers ; yet, notwithstanding the beauty 
md variety they present, they are comparatively 
”.j ec (ecl- Amateurs having small gardens and 
sited means are deterred {ymi plantingJhem, 

Digitized by VjOOQlC 


light, porous soil requires no modifying. Planted 
singly or grouped, Azaleas are very effective, 
but they are not so well suited for mixed shrub¬ 
beries, nor do they grow and fle wer so freely 
when mixed with other subjects. For the 
variety and brilliancy of their usually fragrant 
flowers they are unrivalled, and many of the 
tints and shades of colour are almost unknown 
in any other class of plants. They range through 
all shades and hues of yellow to orange and red 
to crimson, with some very singular mixtures of 
yellow and red; there are also white-flowered 
varieties. Another strong point in their favour 
is that they produce their flowers soon after the 
beauty of spring-llowering shrubs is past. Being 
slow-growing subjects, they should be planted 
rather thickly, for they are some years growing 
and spreading 3 feet or 4 feet. Azalea mollis. 


shaded nankeen, spotted with orange; Scarlet 
La Grand, orange-scarlet, the best of all in oolour. 

Among the varieties of Ghent Azaleas the 
following will be found excellent:—Ne Plus 
Ultra, scarlet j Viscocephala, white; Prince of 
Orange, dark blood-colour, spotted with orange j 
Daviesi (I. D.), lightjsulphur, changing to white, 
sweet scented; Attraction (I. D.), shaded rose, 
yellow standard; Alfred the Great (I. D.), rose and 
white, yellow standard; Monte Cristo(l. D.),rose, 
lemon-yellow standard, large; Occidentalis, 
white ; pontica superba (I. D ), golden yellow, 
extra large; Cavalier (I. D.), red, large; Prince 
Henri des Pays-Bus, deep blood-colour, large; 
Rembrandt, rosy pink, profuse bloomer; Comte 
de Flandre, dark carmine, large; Madame 
Gustavo Guilmot, rose red, yellow marking, 

^‘JSW^rRWItbNbis at 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 












220 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[July 14, 11883. 


Hardy Azaleas may be bought at any good 
nursery in which shrubs are grown, and range 
in price from Is. to 2s. 6d. each, according to 
size. Large established bushes are of course 
higher priced. 


Rhododendrons. — A correspondent of 
Gardening speaks of the poor starved-looking 
Rhododendrons that are to be seen in front 
garden plots. They are often planted in the 
centre of a small raised bed exposed to the full 
snn ; this is just the worst situation possible ; 
they like shade and moisture, and the roots 
should never be raised above the level of the 
ground. I believe they will grow and thrive in 
any soil, but they do not like chalk or limestone. 
They may be taken up and moved at any time 
without injury, provided the ball of root fibres 
is not injured, and they are well watered if the 
weather is dry. In fact, they are often benefited 
by being moved. As soon as the flowers fall, the 
seeds should be pulled or cut off, or they will 
probably not flower much the next year. They 
may be had in flow'er for a considerable time. I 
have had plants in the open air that have been 
a mass of bloom in January. They are apt to 
send out small, weakly, straggling shoots, which 
should be out off, as they weaken the plant and 
spoil its appearance. I do not think it is a good 
plan to dig about the roots, but if the weather 
is very dry in May and June, whilst they are 
producing new wood, they should be well watered 
or mulched, unless in a shady and moist situa¬ 
tion.—K. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Continued from page 211.) 


Potentillas. 

I have before me a list of twenty Potentillas 
which were grown in 1818, and with most of 
them I was well acquainted as rock and border 
plants at that time. Some of them might be 
found now in old-fashioned gardens, but for the 
most part they have disappeared. With one 
exception they bore single flowers, and the 
exception in question was a seedling raised by 
Messrs. Pope, of Birmingham, and sent out, I 
think, about the year 1845, under the name of 
Potentilla atrosanguinea fl.-pl. The flowers were 
not very double, perhaps semi-double would be 
a better description. Since then the atrosan¬ 
guinea strain has been extensively worked upon, 
and many beautiful hybrid forms, some bearing 
showy double flowers, have been the result. 
There is, I think, a future before the double 
Potentillas. When better known, they must 
become popular. They will succeed in any good 
garden soil, are very hardy, and are easily in¬ 
creased by division in autumn or early in spring. 
They also ripen seeds abundantly, which if sown 
as soon as they ripen will make flowering plants 
the following year. The flowers of some of the 
double varieties are very large, and the colours 
bright and pleasing. I find by picking off the 
seeds, the plants flower up to the autumn. 

Double varieties.— Califoraica, yellow; Came- 
leon, scarlet and yellow; Dr. Andre, yellow, 
suffused with vermilion ; Don Quixote, yellow 
and scarlet; Hamlet, crimson; J ane Salter, 
orange and scarlet; Louise Tan Houtte, dark 
crimson; Perfects, crimson and yellow; Pur¬ 
purea, dark scarlet; Victor Lemoine, scarlet and 
orange; Versicolor, pretty flaked and blotched 
variety; William Rollisson, dark crimson and 
orange. 

Single varieties. —Atrosanguinea,dark crimson; 
Golden Cup, yellow; Goldfinch, yellow and 
brown ; Harlequin, yellow and scarlet; Magnet, 
crimson ; Sanguinea, red ; S. aurea, scarlet and 
orange ; Striata multiflora, orange, with scarlet 
stripes; Rplendens, orange and scarlet. 

Pyrethrums. 

In their present form the Pyrethrums are a 
comparatively recent triumph of the florist, for 
though the species (roseum) from which the 
beautiful varieties under consideration originated 
was introduced towards the end of the first 
quarter of the present century, yet most of 
our present beautiful varieties are quite modern; 
and though they are slowly making their way 
over the country, yet. they are still lacking in 
many good gardens, and are altogether absent 
from cottage gardens. They require no special 
treatment, and are. not particular as to soil or 

Digitized by GOOgle 


situation, and they are among the few plants 
which do not deteriorate by remaining several 
years in one position. They are specially valu¬ 
able for cutting, and those who cut freely may 
impart a successional character to the plants, as 
it induces a new growth to spring up which will 
flower later. They are very showy in a mass, 
their flowers being large and bright coloured. 
One of the reasons why Pyrethrums have not 
made their way faster is the puny, sickly little 
bits that were sent out disgusted the purchasers 
by the time they took to establish themselves 
and 6how their true character. A plant so hardy 
and easy to propagate as the Pyre thrum, and 
one that moves with so much certainty when 
treated as a hardy plant, should blossom freely 
the first year after planting, if planted in autumn 
or early in spring; but many of the little bits 
that were sent out a few years ago took a couple 
of years to become established, and many died ; 
and in their young state especially, if not robust, 
the slugs and snails settle themselves round the 
collar of the plants, and unobserved eat off the 
young growths as they spring from the crown. 
Little plants are often lost in this way, as the 
Pyrethrums do not seem to possess the power of 
pushing latent buds in the same way as many 
other plants when their first breaks have been 
eaten off and destroyed. I find the best way to 
keep the slugs at a distance is to put a ring of 
sifted ashes round the plants in autumn or early 
in winter, and keep them there till the shoots are 
above ground in spring. 

Propagation.. —Pyrethrums are easily propa¬ 
gated by division of the crowns in autumn or 
spring. I prefer the latter season, lifting the 
roots carefully up just as the young shoots are 
pushing, as then we can see better where to cut; 
and I prefer also a sharp knife to do the work 
with, as a clean cut wound is better than one 
with rough, jarrged edges. If a large stock is re¬ 
quired, the crowns may be divided into as many 
pieces as there are e) 7 es or buds, and some time 
will be gained by potting the little plants and 
just giving them a start by placing them in heat 
for a time till growth has proceeded a little, and 
new roots are formed. It. i9 a common prac¬ 
tice, when dividing the Crocus in autumn, to 
place them in pots and keep in a cold pit or 
frame till spring; but when the propagating 
is left till the spring, the little plants may, if 
desired, be planted out at once. The propaga¬ 
tion really belongs to the work of the reserve 
garden ; planting the young pieces for a year in 
a nursery bed, where more attention can be 
given them than is possible in a border among 
strong-blooming subjects, is a decided advan¬ 
tage. Pyrethrums are easily raised from seeds 
sown in spring, or, if preferred, the seeds may be 
sown as soon as ripe. Many of the seedlings 
will bear only siDgle flowers, but they all possess 
a value for border work, and single flowers are 
sought after for cutting now-a-days. Groups 
of the inferior seedlings may be planted in the 
wild garden, and permitted to become 
naturalised. 

Double-flwvired varieties. — Album plenum, 
white; Achillea}, pink ; Amethyst, pink, yellow 
centre; Atrococcineum, scarlet; Annie Hol- 
borene, white, blush centre; Carneum plenum, 
rosy carmine; Ceres, flesh colour; Captain 
Nares, crimson; Herman Stenger, rose; Endy- 
mion, lilac, white centre; Emile Lemoine, 
crimson, tipped with gold; Flora, blush; Flori- 
bundum ptenum, rosy pink ; Monsieur Barral, 
crimson; Mont Blanc, white; Imbricatum plenum, 
purple-carmine, tipped with white; La Vest-ale, 
blush; Madame Patti, rosy lilac ; Ne Plus Ultra, 
lilac; Olivia, white; Rose Perfection, rose; 
Progress, dark red; Solfaterre, sulphur; Striatum 
plenum, striped rose ; Thomas Massart, peach ; 
Uzziel, fawn. 

Single-fl(neered varieties. —Coccinea, red; Fairy, 
flesh colour; George Nelson, white; Grandi- 
florum, carmine ; Rosy Mom, pink; Virginale, 
French white; Vivid, amaranth; Warei, crim¬ 
son. E. Hobday. 


Waste in manure.— In answer to “ I). ’ 
in Gardening, June 30, about waste in manure, 
I think if he will adopt the plan I do he will not 
have much, waste. Select a corner of the garden 
that gets the least sun, take off all the soil down 
to the clay, get some wood or old bricks and 
make it square, according to the size required, 
puddle the clay well, and slope it to one corner, 
make a hole or sink a tub; then you save the 


liquor, which is very useful. Bean and! Pea- 
sticks can be kept over 1 he manure by driving a 
post at each corner and then nailing some pieces 
of wood to the top of the posts, and a strip across 
the middle. In this way manure, weeds, and! 
other rubbish and sticks are all tidy in onecorriur 
of your garden.—H. W. 8. 

Cheap manure. —Under this heading, on 
June 23, ‘‘C. J.’! asks “Surgeon” to give him 
advice with regard to the application of his 
sewage to the garden. I can assure “ C. Jfrom 
practical experience that sewage treated with 
green vitriol will not injure the growing crops or 
flowers, but he must be careful not to pour it 
over the plants so as to touch the leaves, as I have 
found the foliage will in some cases suffer, due 
principally, I believe, to having used too much 
vitriol. If “ Surgeon ” will kindly give a few- 
more particulars of the mode of dealing with the 
liquid from the cesspool, I, for one, shall feel 
much obliged to him. In another part of the same 
issue (June 23) there appears a great difference 
of opinion as to the value of this as a manure, 
but my experience teaches me that it is very 
beneficial to all growing crops, and, at the same 
I time, with me it is the easiest way of getting rid 
of house sewage.— Brassicus. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 

(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

9961.- Greenhouse for profit.— In reply , 
to “ C. 8.,” a house 100 feet by 12 feet may be ~ 
made to pay. One of the most profitable things 
to grow are Cucumbers; these should be planted 
in good turf and hot manure. Make a bed of 
the hot manure, turning it over two or three 
times to suppress the violent heat. After doing 
this cover with good rough turf; make a few 
hills of the turf and plant out the plants, water- 
ing with tepid water about two or three times a 
week, and use the syringe freely. I should £ 
devote about 30 feet to these. As regards pipes, & 
there should be a 4-inch flow and return along p 
the side of the path. The remaining 40 feet £ 
could be used for growing and raising bedding 
plants, &c., or for growing Melons or Grapes, n 
but if it was my own I should grow plants. ^ 
Firstly, I should train all over some Marshal 
Niel Roses; these require planting inside the 
house. The best soil is turfy mould and plenty 
of rotten manure. The plants should be on 
their own roots ; trained about 1 ft. from the glass. t 
Some 2-inch pipes should go round the bed ; the 
4-inch pipes should have vapour pans on them. 

The second part—say 30 feet—should be planted ^ 
with Tomatoes; these can be planted in turf 
mould. Plant about 3 feet apart, train to one 
stem, or at most two stems, water about three ^ 
or four times a week. Do not syringe the 
plants when they are in flower or fruit, but be- . , 
fore that time arrives you cannot hurt them 
with the syringe ; thin out the foliage if it gets 
too thick. The following plants could also be 
grown Geraniums, Fuchsias, and all kinds of 
beddiDg plants. After these are gone, say about 
the middle of June, a batch of Mignonette could 
be sown in the latter part of July, in say 6-inch 
pots, using same mould as for Roses with plenty 
of sand. A good batch of Rodanthe maculata 
could also be sown in 7-inch pots at the end 
of June in the same kind of mould. A 4-inch t- 
flow and return pipe along the path would 
answer the purpose well.—A. T. H. W. 

9929.— Heating portable greenhouse. 
Where a small greenhouse is attached to a 
dwelling-house, there is much use in such a 
novelty in heatiDg as seen in Messrs. Deard’s (of 
Harlow) patent combination fire-grate and boiler 
for heating greenhouses. The grate is fitted in 
a room in which a fire is required, but, of course, ^ 
should be where the greenhouse to be heated is ^ 
just on the outside. The boiler is a coil one, ^ 
composed of 2-inch pipes, and three turns of the 
coil form the fire-bars, which enclose the fire, 
the back portion of the coil being enclosed in a 
heated chamber behind the fire. The pipe coil 
is then carried through the house wall, and, con- 
nected with 3-inch piping in the greenhouse, is > 
found to heat from 30 feet to 40 feet admirably ; * 
and if the house fire is always in use, of course 
a nice heat is always maintained in the green¬ 
house. The fire may be backed up and enclosed • 
at night to keep it secure. The arrangement is :| 
ingenious and useful, but, of course, can only be 
utilised when the greenhouse and the room fire¬ 
place are near to each other.—A. 


JtJl.Y 14, 1S83.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


221 


MSI. —Moving Sootoh Firs.— As a rule, 
:fll the Fir or Pinus tribe move well when even 
large, as they root so densely and near home 
that a large ball, both of roots and soil, can 
easily be transferred with the plant. In prepa¬ 
ring them for such transplanting, however, it is 
iesirable, in the case of large trees, to open a 
trench round them, and cut off all roots to with¬ 
in a distance of 4 feet from the stem; that 
■reck! have been done last autumn if the trees 
are to be moved in the coming autumn. It may 
not be unsafe to do so even now; but of course 
much greater risk is attached to doing so than 
would have been the case had it been done last 
autumn, as then all the cnt roots would have 
thrown out an abundance of small fibrous roots 
to aipport the trees for the summer. In any 
case, when the trees are removed trenches must 
. he opened around each, and the roots mined in 
under, so that as much root and seil as possible 
may go with the tree.—D. 

9930.— Second year seeds— In holding 
over seeds to sow a second year, many things 
have to be considered. In the first place, it is 
well to be assured that the seeds are of the pre¬ 
ceding year's saving, were well matured and 
havested, and have been wintered in a dry place. 
Granted all these things, many second year 
seeds will germinate very well, but it would be 
well to allow 25 to 30 per cent, lossof germinating 
power. Then much will depend upon the con¬ 
dition of the soil, and the average temperature 
of the atmosphere in the second springtime, so 
that it will be seen that in holding over seeds 
for a second year's sowing many things have to 
be considered. On the other hand, old seed of 
a good seed season is often as good, if not better 
than. Dew seed saved in a bad or wet season. 
Perhaps the wisest course would be to get some 
new seed of the respective kinds and mix with 
rise old before sowing.—D. 

9952.— Arum Lilies. — This plant has a 
variety of names, as follows: Richardia ajthio- 
pica, Calla sethiopica, Arum arihiopicnm, Lily 
of the Nile, Trumpet Lily, Arum Lily, Ethiopian 
Lily, Ac. I think the first name is the one best 
known and mostly used. Treatment: After 
flowering, withhold water, and when the foliage is 
dving down turn out of pots and remove the 
old soil ; then replace (without removing any 
offsets unless increase be desired) in good sized 
pots with efficient drainage, using a compost of 
lieht turfy loam and leaf soil; place in a shady 
position; water rather sparingly until September, 
then bring to a light position, and by October 
tfcev are in fine leaf and the pots full of roots ; 
then shift into larger pots ; water gently until 
March, then if they do not show flower keep them 
drvish'for a month, then water again till after 
flowering. —H. J« Goddard. 

J921._ Rhododendrons. —In a bed where 

common kinds are getting the better of good 
kinds, the knife should be freely used upon the 
common sorts to keep them within bounds, 
and to even cnt them clean away if the good 
kinds need all the space. If the soil be poor 
it may be greatly helped by having laid over 
it a dressing of short or well rotted manure. It 
is often the case in planting Rhododendrons 
that the space allotted to each plant only suffices 
for a few years. At the end of that time the 
whole lot should be lifted out, the soil re- 
nlenished with some fresh peat and a little 
manure, and then the plant should be replaced, 
but more thinly. A few Foxgloves, Gladiolus, 
Liliums, and other suitable flowering plants may 
be grow-n in the open spaces for a year or two 
before they are filled up by the growing Rhodo¬ 
dendrons.—11- 

9266._Improving clay soil.—In answer 

to “ Clay Ground," allow me to give him my ex- 
rerienceL About three years ago, when we 
moved into a house, the garden was much the 
=ame as that mentioned. The first thing I did 
was to dig it over roughly, then cover it about 
S inches all over with road-sweepings; this I 
could obtain for nearly nothing, as we lived just 
out of a town. It was afterwards dng over again 
•onehlv then again coated with the sweepings, 
tnd well hoed. If “ Clay Soil ’’ will try this, he 
rill find it to answer well.—A. T. H. VV. 

1970 .—Strawberry plants for forcing. 
-In answer to “ Young Gardener," I can recom¬ 
mend the following Strawberries for forcing; 
,jr j. Paxton, this is a hardy and early variety ; 
.ij. ’(V uapieT, not so hardy as the first, but crops 

Digitized by GOUglC 


well; British Queen, the be9t flavoured variety; 
Black Prince, a very good variety. Sir J. Paxton 
is the one I should grow myBelf. To be obtained 
at any good nursery.—A. T. H. W. 

9967.— Propagating Carnations.— Why 
not layer the Carnations, especially as the best 
time for doing so is just at hand ? A layer, as a 
rule, will be found to produce a stronger plant 
than a piping, besides being a much more certain 
method of increase. A layered shoot scarcely 
ever fails to root, but I find this cannot be said 
of pipings, which are often most disappointing. 
—J. K., Hornsey. 

9971.— Slow combustion stoves.— The 

tortoise stove, made in different sizes, would 
probably suit. I have two of them, and they are 
quite satisfactory. These are merely slow com¬ 
bustion stoves, and have no boiler. Although 
not so suitable for a greenhouse as a hot-water 
apparatus, they are about the next best thing to 
it, as, being lined with firebrick, the heat is 
regular, and not excessive.—J. K., Hornsey. 

9930.—Seeds the second year —Experience leads 
me to believe that second year’s seeds are very liable to 
run to seed much more quickly than new seeds. They 
will germinate quite as quickly as new seed if properly 
kept.—L anark. 

9833.— Slugs eating Strawberries.— The slugs 
were eating my Strawberries as fast as they ripened till 
1 tried the plan recommended in Gardening, June 30, 
by “A. W. T.,” viz., that of soaking rags in paraffin. I 
have Baved the rest of my crop.—O s>waldestriensis. 


Star of Bethlehem.—Will “Mark” kindly explain 
what he means by “ a spike of Star of Bethlehem 3 foet 
high?” Omithogalum umbcllatum is rarely more than 
6 inches.—J unia. [Orni'hogalum pyramidalc (the tall 
Star of Bethlehem ) grows 2 feet high, and in deep, warm 
soil, would no doubt easily reach 3 feet. —Ed. ] 

Geranium blooms falling off.—J. W. Pritchard. 
—Geranium blooms always fall very readily during hot 
weather, and especially when the plants are grown in a 
room. Keep them slightly shaded and well watered. 

J. Stimson. —We could not say who is the maker of 
your lamp, there are so many patent duplex lamps now 

in the market.- Richard Davis.— The Strawberries 

when we received them were reduced to a pulp.- 

Ignoramus —You do not give the names of those adver. 
tisers of whom you complain. We cannot therefore" 

make enquiries respecting them.- Victim. —You had 

better consult a lawyer. All depends upon what agree¬ 
ment you hold in writing. 

F. Bond.— Try the effect of fertilising the blossoms. 
The plants lack vigour, we should think, and the bottom 

heat is deficient.-- Botanist. —There is a purple variety 

of the Laburnum. It can be obtained at any good hardy 

tree nursery.- JohnS. Owen. —It is a freak ol nature 

common to the Rose. Good culture is the only remedy. 

- A. R. L.— u Fruit Culture for Profit,” by E. Hobday. 

London: George Routledge and Sons, Ludgate Hill, 
price Is. 

P.— Probably there are maggots in the bulb.- G. C. 

Lyon.— The soil is sour caused by overwatering. A good 
watering once a fortnight during dry weather would be 
ample. Lot the soil get thoroughly dry before watering 

again.- James Rogergon. — “ Oliver’s Elementary 

Botany.” London: Macmillan & Co., Bedford Street, 
Strand. 

Names of Plants.— Ignoramus — Arum Dracuncu- 

lus.- B. F. B.—l, Deutzia scabra fl.-pl. ; 2, Philadel- 

phus coronarius; 3. bend larger specimen ; 4, Sagnla 

apetala.- W. Roberts — Species of Omithogalum; cannot 

name from flowers only.- J. Rogerson .—Species of Epi- 

medium.- Mrs. Wilson. — Polygonum cuspidatum, 

(Giant Knotweed.)- R. C. Barr.—Brassia verrucosa.- 

J. T. Finchette.— Saxifraga sarmentosa (Mother of Thou¬ 
sands). Bon Accord.— 2, Centaurea inonta n a; 1 and 3, 

Cannot name without seeiDgseed vessels. - J. H. Hurd. 

—Cannot name from such scanty material.- F.Walker. 

—Abelia floiibunda- Kccles.— Oxalis acetosella (Wood 

Sorrel), not Irish Shamrock, which is a species of Medi- 
cago. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents.—A U communica¬ 
tions for insertion should le clearly and concisely icritten 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
and address of the sender is required , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day qf publication, it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

9984.—Grubs in garden. — My garden is small, hut 
generally it gives me great pleasure. For edging I 
generally use 250 Golden Feathers and Lobelias. This 
year I have bought 750 to 600, and only about twenty-five 
are as advanced as ordinarily. Out of fifteen dozen Gera¬ 
niums, five are left, and they are not all sound. The en¬ 
closed small box contains the guilty party [gruba of daddy- 
loDglegs, Ed. 1 I have tried all “to do for him,” but 



go was in vain, “he” is still alive, though not so bad 
and active as he was. In May I killed on three moraines 
400. “ He ” eats my grass, and recently “he” has 

eaten plants as thick as an ordinary pencil. What can 
be done ?—Poor Fellow. 

9985.— Vine leaves turning brown.— I should be 
glad if someone could help me to discover the cause of the 


foliage of my Muscat of Alexandria Vines assuming ahalf- 
ripened brown condition. The Vines are planted in an 
outside border, which is always kept mulched with litter, 
and Is covered with boards from January to April. The 
house, besides Vines (Muscat of Alexandria and Black 
Hamburgh!, contains a mixed collection of stove plants, 
which, with the Vines, have to be syringed at times to 
keep down insects. The Black Ham burghs are quite 
healthy. The affected Vines have a fair crop of fruit, 
and have now just finished their first swell. Forcing begins 
in January.— Perplexed. 

9986. — Cucumbers not growing —Would some 
practical gardener inform me why my CucumberB wiJl 
not grow longer than about 1$ inches? I have two 
frames about 5 feet square, with one plant in each. The 
plants are strong and appear perfectly healthy. One has 
twelve small fruits on it, and the other about six. After 
flowering they do not gi-ow any longer than above size. 
They have now been planted two months. The frames 
are open from about seven a.m. till the sun goeB off at 
about four p.m., they are then shut up. They are 
watered about three times a week with milk warm 
water.—J. P. 

9987. —Laying out a garden. — I have a piece of 
land an acre and a half in extent, and would value any 
hints as to laying out Bame as a garden, planting, <fcc. 
Ground slopes gently to south-east, and is at present a 
ploughed field, covered with rough grass and weeds. 
What are the best shrubs and trees for quick and hardy 
growth? What would be suitable planting for a mound to 
screen off the road? How shall I best get vegetable 
garden under cultivation, and lay down tennis court? 
What Grass seed is best, and also suggest plan of oblong 
garden. How shall I laydown a good avenue? There 
will, of course, be a house on the ground.—E. H. W. 

0988. — Preserving Celery in winter. — Last 
winter I tried the experiment of taking a row of Celery 
up and putting it in layers in wine boxts with sand. 
This answered well, and the Celery was good at the end 
of two months This year I am thinking of taking up a 
large quantity and pitting it in layers with sand in the 
open air, as potatoes are stored, and I should like to 
know if it is likely to remain good for any length of time. 
As a rule our Celery begius to go about the end of Janu¬ 
ary when left out in rows.—J. B. 

9989. —Wire worms.—Can anyone suggest a plan 
for destroying wireworms? I have tried cotton cake in 
the following manner, and consider it useless : I put ten 
wireworms into a small box, about 10 inches by 2 inches, 
containing earth, and two pieces each of cotton cake and 
raw potato. In four days three worms had died, but 
were shrivelled, not burst, and at the end of a week 
there were six still alive and healthy, having riddled the 
pieces of potato, leaving the cake apparently untouched. 
—R. B. J. 

9990. — Neglected orchard.—I have lately come 
into possession of a large kitchen garden and orchard. 
The Apple and Pear trees are covered with Mohs, and 
have much dead wood on them, but very little fruit. Can 
any reader kindly tell me what can be done to them? 
They are situated in one of the valleys of the Cotswolds, 
limestone soil, and the trees a few years since bore pretty 
well. The garden is rather shaded by some large beech 
trees.—J. P. C. 

9991. —Mushrooms dying off. —Can any reader 
inform me how to prevent Mushrooms being destroyed 
when very small by maggots, which apparently eat their 
way through »he young Mushrooms and canse them to 
die off by hundreds? I have a Mushroom house in full 
bearing, and the beds are literally crowded with Mush¬ 
rooms, which are nearly all destroyed by maggots when 
about the size of a pea or a marble; indeed, it is few that 
escape.—B. B. 

9992. —Resurrection plants. -I have a couple of 
plants under the above name ; one is composed of woody 
twigs and the other soft Fern-like foliage; they are 
natives of the desert, and both expand in water. I wish 
to know if they can be propagated, and if so, how? The 
twiggy plant had seed pods on it when it came into my 
possession. Can anyone say how it should he grown to 
flower?—R. B. J. 

9993. — Insects on Cauliflower and Brussels 
Sprouts.—Will some reader say what will cure these 
plants of a small white worm or maggot which attacks 
the roots and causes the p ants to wither and die ? The 
ground was thoroughly dug and fresh lime applied a 
year since, ami was this season manured with dissolved 
bones. —Lanark. 

9994. — Victoria Plum.—I am thinking of planting 
a Victoria Plum tree against a waU facing west. Would 
it do there? What soil Buits it best, and what drainage 
is necessary? What is the best month in autumn to 
plant, and how old should the tree be to carry a fair 
quantity of fruit next year?-Any information will be 
gratefully received.—I gnoramus. 

9995. — Rose leaves withering.—I have two 
young standard Rose trees, only planted in ray garden 
this year ; they have had several blooms on them, but 
the leaves, as soon as they get to any size, have all 
withered and gone us though they had been burnt up. 
Can anyone suggest a remedy 1— W. B. J. 

9996. - A weedy garden.—I have taken a garden 
so full of weeds that it seems hopeless to try to grow 
either vegetables or flowers satisfactorily' in it. Could 
any reader tell me how I can best clear the soil ? The Boil 
is rather clayey, and has been neglected for many years. 
—Self Help. 

9997. — Lilium aura turn —I should be glad to know 
what is the proper treatment for an Auratura Lily which 
has been forced after it has done flowering. Will it be 
best to turn it out into the ground ? Could it remain out 
during the winter, or would it be better to keep it in a 
room ? 1 have no greenhouse.—VAN. 

9998. — Nitrate of soda and Lettuces. — A 
gentleman whose Lettuces grow to an immense size 
(last year some of them were over two pounds) tells me 
that he puts nitrate of soda to them. Is this put 
in solution before the Lettuces are sown, or how is it 
applied, and In what proportion?—E. A. W. 

9999. — Melon culture.—I Shall be glad if any of 
your renders will give me a few sound hints on Melon 
culture ; how to commence, what heat ri required, amt 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


222 


[July 14 , 1883 . 


1 


give the names ol a few of the easiest kinds to cultivate 
either in a frame or a house.—I gnoramus. 

10000.— Ash tree unhealthy —I have a Weeping 
Ash, into which a carpenter last summer drove a strong 
iron hook for the support of a hammock. The tree this 
year looks thin and poor ; what should I do? Would it 
be of use to remove the hook ?—M. S. 8., Blackheath. 

10001.—Fern fronds for windows.— Will someone 
tell me how to dye dried Fern fronds or make them of a 
green colour? When first put in the windows after being 
pressed they are green, but the action of the light in a 
very short time renders them brown.—S alop. 

10002 .—Crown Imperials in pots.— Having suc¬ 
cessfully bloomed in pots these plants, w hich have now 
completely died down, I should be glad of advice as to the 
summer and autumn treatment of the tubers. Can they 
be bloomed a second year in pots ?—C. G. M. 

1C003.—Vines In pots.—How long may Vines be 
grown and fruited well in pots without the Vine being 
removed ; also what is the name of the heaviest grape 
grown for show and average weight per bunch, and what 
colour ?—Con start Reader. 

10004 — Slugs eating Strawberries. — Will 
“ A. W. J.” kindly tell me how to mix the parafhnwith the 
water, as I have always found the oil refuse to mix, and 
float on the top of the water? I shall be glad of an 
early answer.—A Young Gardener. 

10005.—Tortolses and toad s v. slu gsand snails. 
—Some recommend a tortoise in a garden for keeping 
down slugs and snails, and some recommend a toad. If 
someone would give some information on the subject it 
would be gratefully received.—J. P. 

10006.—Summer flowering Chrysanthemums. 
Will any reader inform me if all the varieties of summer 
flowering Chrysanthemums can be raised from seed If 
not all varieties, which, and what are the colours of these 
varieties?—T. J. Wilkes. 

10 07.—Roses for north wall —I require eight 
Roses to cover a high brick wall (back of a house) facing 
the north, fifteen miles south of London. Which are the 
most suitable varieties ?- La France. 

10008.—Day Lilies.—Yellow Day Lilies have been in 
ray garden for years, and have always done well till this 
season. Some patches have not bloomed at all, others 
very little. What treatment do they require?—C. A. N. 

10009.—Summer pruning Gooseberry trees. 
—My Gooseberries are very luxuriant, being quite crowded 
with young shoots of this season's growth. Should these 
be pruned off or not ?—R. B. J. 

looio.—Daffodils not bloomiDg. — Can any reader 
kindly tell me why my Daffodils, Jonquils, and Narcissi 
have not bloomed well? Ought they to be planted sepa 
rately ?—C. A. N. 

10011.—Watering plants.—In watering plants with 
manure water, is it good to continue or discontinue that 
application alter the buds have expanded, and why 
Bath. 

10012.— Florists’ gum.—Will someone tell me the 
proper way to make florists’ gum, as I have been un¬ 
successful in my attempt?—E. L. B. 

10013.— Fowl manure. — Is manure from the 
fowls’ house good for all kinds of flowers?—A. J. R. 

10014.—French Honeytuckle.—Can any reader 
tell me when and In what manner to prune this creeper 
to best induce free blooming?—C. G. M. 

10015 — Beech leaves.—Will someone kindly tell me 
if Beech leaf-mould is injurious to flowers?—A. J. R. 

10016.—Carnation seed.—How can I savo Carna¬ 
tion seed ?—A. T. H. W. 


BIRDS. 

Chaffinch mules. — I do not know how I 
can express myself otherwise than quite certain 
that a cock chaffinch and a hen canary of mine 
mated. Several eggs were laid, but only one 
bird reared. I noticed the affectionate terms 
subsisting between these two birds, and I then 
removed them to a breeding cage, in which the 
eggs were laid and one bird reared. The chaf¬ 
finch I had from a very young bird, and he was, 
when grown up, placed in a drawing-room aviary 
in which were several other birds, but as this 
pair were removed as soon as I noticed the 
intimacy between them, I cannot think either a 
canary or a linnet was the father. The mule 
bird was very pale yellow, white on the wings. I 
am sorry to say it did not live more than a few 
months. I have reared both linnet and goldfinch 
mules, and the plumage was very different. I 
think the secret of success in mule breeding is to 
have the parent birds (not the hens) hand reared. 
—A Bird Lover. 

Virginian nightingale.— Will some 
reader kindly give me some hints on the keep¬ 
ing of a Virginian nightingale in a cage ? I have 
just received a cock bird, and never having had 
one I am rather at a loss respecting its treatment. 
I believe they require some insect food, such as 
mealworms. If such is the case, I should be glad 
to know how to procure and keep them. I be¬ 
lieve they are sold in London. My bird will 
not eat raw meat or bread and milk, preferring 
hemp, canary, and millet seed ; he enjoys fruit 
greatly. I should be glad to know also if these 
birds are subject to any disease.— Irish Night¬ 
ingale. 


Canary difleafled —I have lost a canary 
bird from a disease the nature of which is un¬ 
known to me, but may be known and under¬ 
stood by some readers of Gardening. A large 
part of the lower jaw, in fact the whole of it 
next to the throat, seems as if eaten away. My 
first impression was that a rat had eaten it, but 
as there is no possibility of that being the case, 
and also from the fact that there was no blood 
in the cage or on the feathers, I have come to the 
conclusion that the disease must be cancer. Can 
any reader enlighten me on the subject?— 
Belfast. 

Canaries and linnets.— Will blue tits 
agree in a cage with a pair of linnets ? I have 
a very tame hen canary ; is it best to keep her 
by herself in a cage, or would they all agree 
together? They are all very tame, aDd come in 
and out of the cages as they please; but I find 
I must do away with some cages, and wish to 
know which birds will be best separate.— 
S. A. U. 

Canary with hole In its beak.—I have a canary 
which has a large hole in its beak, and has also lost all 
the feathers off its neck. Can anyone tell me the reason 
of this, and alBO suggest a remedy ?—I. F. K. 


D 


Go gle 


N ew pink geranium, princess 

HELEN.—This is the best winter-blooming pink Gera¬ 
nium yet produced • also the best pink bedder. As free 
bloomer as the old VESUVIUS, never seeding outdoors—a 
great boon for a pink. Good plants, Is. 6d. each, poet free. 

NEW DOUBLE GOLDEN MARGUERITE. — Chrysan¬ 
themum lutea plena, bright golden yellow, as double as a 
Ranunculus, blooming profusely all the year round ; fine for 
cut bloom. Good plants, fid. each, post free. 

BICOLOR PLENA, similar to the above; colour yellow, 
margined with white ; fine for cut bloom. 6d. each, poet free. 

TALL LOBELIAS (cardinalis section).—6 fine varieties of 
this useful summer and autumn-blooming perennial, 3s., post 
free, from B. W. KNIGHT, Florist, Battle, Sussex. 


DENNY PLANTS FOR THE MILLION. - 

■L The following are now offered in good plants : 12 Fuch¬ 
sias, specially for pots or the border, Is. 12 yellow Calceola¬ 
rias, Is. 12 bedding Cupheas, 1b. 12 various single Gera¬ 
niums, 1b. 12 various double Geraniums, Is. 12 Heliotro- 
piums. Is. 12 white Faris Marguerites, Is. 12 dwarf blue 
Ageratum, 1b. 12 large Victoria Daisies, Is. 12 Polyanthus, 
Is. 12 scarlet Geraniums, Is. 12 pink Geraniums, Is. 12 
Coleus Verschaffelti. best for bedding. Is. 12 Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, large-flowered, Japan, and Pompone, Is. 12 Myosotis, 
Cliveden Forget-me-not, Is. 12 Sweet William. Auricula¬ 
eyed, Is. 12 dwarf white Ageratum, Is. 12 Coleus, fire for 
nqta.ls. 12 dwarf blue lobelia, Is. 12 Tresine Lin deni, Is. 
12 variegated Geraniums, Is, 12 scarlet bedding Tropaeolum, 
Is. 12 variegated Alvssum, white foliage for edging, Is. 12 
Petunias, fine, Is. 12 Giant Musk, the large variety, Is. 12 
Pansies and Violas, fine for bedding. Is. 12 dark brown 
Calceolarias, la. 12 Mentha gibraltarica, fine for margins or 
carpet bedding. Is. 12 Antirrhinums, fine variety, Is. 12 
white Geraniums, Is. 

Any of the above plants sent post free at Is. per dozen. 
Orders of 10s. and upwards, if desired, will be sent in boxes 
per rail, carriage paid, to London. All are good plants, from 
_B W. KNIGHT. Florist, Battle, Sussex. 


]\] hVV and SELECT BOUVARDIAS.—Theee 

-Li useful winter-blooming plants, so valuable for cut bloorr, 
are now offered in good plants: 12 fine varieties, including 
the new double white ALFRED NEUNER. for 4s.. post free. 
GYNURA AURANTIACA. a new bedding plant, of free 
growth and compact habit,with beautiful deep violet coloured 
foliage; will soon be used as extensively as the Coleus 
Verschaffelti, with which it contrasts well. All bedders 
should procure it to work up stock for future use. It is also 
a grand decorative plant for the conservatory. Good plants, 
Is. each, poBt free, from B. W. KNIG11T, FloriBt, Battle, 
Sussex. 


VP HITE CLOVES ! WHITE CLOVES! !-Mrs. 

< ' Sinking, the new hybrid white Clove, is the largest, 
Bweetest, hardiest, most free growing and flowering variety in 
cultivation ; blooms 3 inches across; perfect rosettes. Were 
admired by thousands at H R.H. Duchess of Teck'B stall at 
the Grand Bazaar, also at Lady Peek's Bazaar opened by 
Gen. Sir F. Roberts. Plants 6s. per dot., post free for carh.— 
W. WEALE, Taplow, Bucks. 


"PULL-SIZED REGULATION SET of highest 

-L quality LAWN TENNIS, comprising four superior 
English racquets, full size, cedar handles, 1 doz. covered and 
uncovered regulation balls, polished poles, pegs, lines, runners, 
and all accessories of best quality in strong case, lately new, 
perfect condition, warranted; value £4 15s.; will accept 
£210s ; a ppro val with pleasure ; carriage! paid; must cell.— 
A. CANTWELL, Onslow Cottage, Horncastle. 


T710LETS.—Deep blue, sweet-scented Violet 

» roots in beautiful leaf and full of seed ; very massive, 
large, fine plants ; price, 50 for Is , 100 for 2s ; each root 
warranted ; carefully packed,—TH08. P. MAY, 44, North 
St reet. Horncastle. 

rjLIMBING HONEYSUCKLE covered with 

v/ beautifully sweet-scented flowers all summer and scarlet 
bemes in winter ; for summer houses, arches, trellis work, 
Ac. Six well rooted plaDts.post free. Is. 3d ; 12 for Is. 94 
Carefully packed.-THOS. P. MAY, 44, North Street, Horn¬ 
castle. 

"DERN ROOTS,—Hardy Lincolnshire Fern 

. r R otB ’ *ery flue and massive, for rockeries and ferneries, 
price 25 for 2s. 6<L, 50 for 4 s. 64 ; several are worth Is. rack 
Each one warranted to flourish : assorted varieties ; caretully 
packed,—THOB. P. MAY, 44. North Street, Horncastle. 


ft. ARDEN NETTING.—Splendidly made, extra 

VJ stout, brown-tanned garden netting, 100 yards by 2 yards, 
cost "d. per square yard ; price, only Id. per square yard ; the 
lot, 12s. Money returned if not approved.-THOS. P. M AY, 
44. North Street, Horncastle. 

•TRAILING IVY for window boxes, arches, 

•L trellis work, Ac. 8ix well rooted sprays, post free. Is, 
Warranted and selected.-THOS. P. MAY, 44, North Street, 
Horncastle. 

•THE - PATENT KNIFE CLEANER (easily 

A fixed), carriage paid, Ss. 6(L-WM. BURLEY, Tower 
Buildings, Londou Wall, E.C. 


THE BEST VEGETABLE SEEDS. 

Nonpareil Cabbage, true selected .. .. ..0 3 

Enfield Market Cabbage, a fine stock.0 3 

Little Pixie Cabbage, very early .0 3 

Bullock-heart Cabbage, new, extra fine .. U 6 

Sandringham Sprouting Cabbage .0 3 

Scotch Cabbage, an immense variety .. .. ..0 3 

Red CabbBge, fine prize .. .0 3 

White Lisbon Onion, fine stock .. .. peroz, 0 4 

Giant White Italian Tripoli Onion .. .. „ 0 8 

Red flat Italian Tripoli Onion.. .. .. „ 0 8 

Manchester Turnip, sweet, rolid kind .. .. „ 0 

Golden Ball Turnip, fine variety .. .. „ 0 3 

Winter White Lettuce Cabbage .. ..perpkt. 0 3 

Hardy Winter Cos Lettuce .. „ 0 3 

All the above are post free, and are our own fine stocks. All 
for present sowing. 

RYDER & SON, Sale, Manchester. 


Primulas. French Cinerarias. 

THE noted strains we have the honour cf dis- 
-L tributing: Mr. W. Bull's Premier, per doz., la. 6d. Cele¬ 
brated French Cinerarias, per doz., Is. 6d.; per 25. 2 b. 9d ; 
per 100, 10 b., all post free. Those who desire specially good 
strains should procure these plants.—RYDER A BOR, Bale, 
Man chester_ 

CJNAPDRAGONS.—Nice sturdy plants from a 
NJ splendid strain, per doz.. Is ; per 25, la 6d.; per 100,5s.. 
free, will flower this autumn. This fine old-fashioned flower 
should be in every garden, fine for flower border, and most 
useful for cutting.—RYDER A 80N, Bale. Manchester. 

■RLOOD-RED WALLFLOWER, per 25, Is. 3d. s, 

■LJ per 100, 3s. 6d., stout little plants. Canterbury Bolls, 
single and double, at same prices, all free.—RYDER & SON, 
Sale. Manchester. 


TROUBLE WALLFLOWERS.-Superb garden 

LJ varieties, throwing up noble spikes of moom in May. 
Among all spring flowers we saw none to excel this hardy, 
fr. e-blooming strain. Per doz.. Is. 3d. Double Swett 
Williams, per doz., Is. Single Wallflowers, choicest kinds, 
9 1. per doz.; 4s. per 100 Single Sweet Williams, Auricula¬ 
eyed, etc., same price. Planted now these will bo establish! d 
by autumn, and will be grand plants for spring blooming. 
All post or carriage free.—RYDER A SON, Sale, Man¬ 
chester. 


DALSAMS.—Stout little plants to bloom this 
■LJ pummer; superb strain ; brilliant selfo and attractive mot¬ 
tled vara. Theee brilliant'Eummer-floweriDg plants should be in 
every conservatory. Per doz , Is. 6d., post free.—RYDER & 
SON, Sale. Manchester. 


Tea Roses in Pots. 

6 FINEST Darned varieties for j,Teenhouse, care¬ 
fully packed in hamper for 7s. ; 12 for 13s. 64; 3 for 4s., 
including Marechal Niel, Gloire da Dijon, Niphetos, etc, 
nif>st carefully packed in hamper. Maybe grown outBidein 
the south. Customers are invited to send for our list to » lcct 
for themselves. Stout plants, clean and healthy, and un¬ 
usually good value for money. Cash. Send name of railway 
statio n.— RY DBR ft BON, bale, Manchester. 

Pinks, Picotees, Carnations. 

NT1CE little plants, seedlings from finest strains, 
Li per doz, Is. 3d.: per 100, 8s.; 4s. 64 for 50. Planted 
now will get well established by winter to bloom profusely 
next season. The most remarkable sight we saw last season 
was a row of seedling Carnations. It is not claimed (bat 
these will equal named sorts, but they will produce a fair pro¬ 
portion of correct florist’s flowers, and alJ will be profuse 
bloomers in brilliant colours. All post free.—RYDER A 
SON, Sale, Manchester. 


Supplementary List, July. 


TEA ROSEb, Climbers, Greenhouse Plants, 
Hardy Plants, all at popular prices Readers of Gar¬ 
dening are invited t) apply for this abort list. We shall be 
happy to forwar4 post free, to all applicants. The plants . 
are offered at cheap rates.—RYDER A SON. Sale, Man- 
ch ester. ___! 

rjHOU DE BURGHLEY, an entirely new and 

vJ distinct vegetable, a cross between the Broccoli and 


OTAGE AURICULA.—The seed we offer is 

warranted to be saved from named show flowers, care¬ 
fully hybridised : a very choice strain of this most valuable 
florists flower. Is. 6d. per packet, post free.—STUART A- 
MEIN, Kelso, 8eotlan4 


OaRNATION SEED, saved from the finest 

named show varieties, warranted to produce a large per¬ 
centage of double flowers, of great value where delicious 
sweet-scented blooms are appreciated; sow now to havo 
BtroDg plants for flowering next year :1s. and 2s. 6d. per 
packet; Picotee, la. and2s. 64 per packet, free.—8TUAIIT 
A MEIN, Kelso, Scotland __ \ 


TREE CARNATION (Perpetual flowering.)— 
-L These are at their best when the keen frosty winds have 
cleared the garden of its occupants; easily grown in the 
smallest greenhouse and flowering profusely the whole 
winter, when their beautiful, sweet-smelling, large floweit 
are highly prized; Is. and 2s. 64 per packet, post free.—. 
STUART A MEIN, Kelso, Scotland 


TV/TEIN fc> No. 1. CABBAGE.—This spies die 

J-fJ. variety has fully sustained its reputation as the larges 
and best early Cabbage ever fens out. The hearts arc for mi < 
very early, and ultimately attain to a great rize and weigh' 
of finest quality, and keeping very long without bolting t« 
seed. They have been exhibited at autumn shows as muc.' 
as 28 lbs. weight. Is. per ounce, post free. Special price pc 
lb. on application.—STUART A MEIN, Kelso, Scotland. 


THE LION LEEK.—We are now prepare' 

-L to send ont strong plants of this famous Leek grow 
from our own seed The plant attains to an enormous size 
we have grown them blanched to a length of 20 inches an 
over 9 inches in circumference Price Is. per score, poet f«t 
2s. fid. per 100 on rail.—STUART A MEIN, Kelso. 8cotl»n. 

PAST LOTHIAN INTERMEDIATE STOCE 

-LI —We offer seed of the true main of this spleen 
variety in four colours—white, purple, crimson, and icarlt 
These are invaluable for spring flowering in the open a' 
being very lmrdy and deliciously scented Seed sown nr 
in the open air will produce strong plants to flower ne 
April onwards. Each colour per packet 6d.j collection of t| 
four colours. Is 64. post free.—STUART A MEIN, K«*li 
Scotland. 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. V. 


JULY 21, 1883. 


No. 228. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

( Coni imt-c'U from, yaga 220.) 

The Dahlia. 

The introduction of the single-flowered 
Dahlia has given au impetus to the resuscitation 
of a grand old favourite plant, as the present 
craring for the single-flowered varieties is sure 
to culminate in an impetus being given to the 
cultivation of the beautiful large double 
flowers by and by. The Dahlia in any form is 
unquestionably a noble flowering plant, and is 
less affected by diseases and less liable to insect 
attacks than many other flowers. It is true 
there is nothing absolutely free from troubles 
of this character, and early in the spring the 
slugs and snails are excessively fond of the 
thick succulent shoots, often in a single night 
eating the heart out of a choice plant and lead¬ 
ing to its ruin, for perfect success with this 
flower depends in a great measure upon its un¬ 
interrupted progress, especially in its young 
state, for the main stem should ascend un¬ 
stopped to attain perfect development. But the 
slugs and snails can be easily circumvented by 
placing a circle of something round the plants 
that snails do not like to travel over. A small 
ridge of coal-ashes or sawdust, will be sufficient 
to secure the young plants from their depreda¬ 
tions, and it is only when the plants are young 
they need protection. Later on in the season 
another trouble arises, for the earwigs attack the 
flowers, eating and disfiguring the petals. These 
latter pests may also, with a little trouble, be 
| kept under. The earwigs, after they have satis- 
fled their hunger, retire into some snag, retired 
place to rest, and they are specially fond of a 
Lice soft bed of hay, and, knowing this weak¬ 
ness, the Dahlia grower makes up a bed of hay 
md places it in a flower-pot, elevating the pot 
on the top of the stake; the pot is inverted on 
the stake, with the wisp of hay inside. Large 
pots are not needed, 5-inch pots will do. After 
Wring, the earwig ascends to his bed for repose, 
ind while in this condition he is easily 
aptured and shook ent of tho hay into a vessel 
if hot water and destroyed. 

Soil. _Though the Dahlia as a merely decora- 

ire plant is not particular as to soil, yet to 
btain show' flowers such as aie seen on the ex- 
ibition tables they must have a good deal of 
•flection. In the first place the land must be 
hep and rich, and if it is not so, or is lacking 
z any particular, stations should be taken out. 
Br each plant, and a barrowload of old turf 
ad manure in about equal proportions placed 
u the hole, in the centre of which the plant 
■y»ild be placed. It is. of course, possible to 
(erfeed, and then tho flowers lose that refine- 
tad of form and appearance which a well- 
~own flower should always possess. But the 
zschief which leads to coarseness of outline and 
'cshness of petal is generally produced by the 
at free use of strong liquids rather than any- 
>g in which the plant may have been planted. 

■ bed or quarter intended for Dahlias should 
v irencherl up roughly in winter and left ex- 
W to the weather, then in April mark out 
afl prepare the holes ready to receive the plants 
oat the third week in May. 

Tit propagation of Dahlias is a very simple 
-siness. In February or March the roots are 
uen from their winter quarters and placed in 
jentle hotbed, or in some jhouse where a mode- 
tie temperature is kept up. As soon as the 
■ mg shoots are 3 inches long they may be 
tree off and rooted in small pots. Where only 
mired number of plantsare required, the young 
nets may be cut with a little bit of the old 
'attached ; but where it is necessary to 
trie as'many plants as possible, take the cut- 
y off 'just above the bottom pair of leaves, 
■*lrom their axils two young shoots will spring, 
*kh in time may also be taken off and rooted. 
% little pots, when the cuttings are inserted, 
krid be plunged in the hotbed till rooted. 
bs-war<3s, the usual treatmentgiven to ordinary 
k-fjng plants will suffice for Dahlias. 

Ikssisr management. — When the planting 
arrives drive the stakes firmly into the 

Digitized 6 V GOOgle 


ground, and plant a Dahlia at the foot of each 
stake, and then as growth progresses all one has 
to do is to attach a tie loosely to it, and it must 
be done loosely, as the stem swells so rapidly it 
may be cut by the tie if room is not left for 
growth. Viewed as ornamental plants only, the 
Dahlia has a graceful habit without much 
pruning, and with one stake to support the 
main stem, the outside shoots can be linked to it, 
and thus a cone -which is the most graceful out¬ 
line which any plant can assume is formed 
naturally; but every shoot of any size or weight 
must have a tie to support it, as the branches, 
unless secured, are very apt to be splintered off 
by the wind. When grown to produce grand 
flowers for exhibition, tho ornamental appear¬ 
ance of the plants is sacrificed, for much 
pruning has to be done to throw the whole 
strength of the plants into a few channels. 
Other stakes besides the centre one must be 
employed, and after the best bnds have been 
selected, the others mast be cut away. Then as 
the buds begin to expand shading must be 
brought into requisition, and in dry weather 
watering and mulching must have attention. A 
plot of exhibition Dahlias, apart from the 
really grand blooms which appear to be 
hidden away under shades made of tin or zinc 
during the season of exhibition, is not to the 
o rderly-minded man a pleasant sight; but then 
many take pleasure in it, and there is room 
enough for every man’s hobby. 1‘reparing and 
dressing the flowers for exhibition is an art 
which can only be learnt by seeing others do it, 
and by actual experience. There is an art in 
setting things np to the best advantage, which, 
in some people, is intuitive; and others, no 
matter how much they may try, never excel in 
it. Choice varieties of Dahlias arc frequently 
propagated in summer. Cuttings of the young 
shoots strike freely in single pots in a close 
frame. The plants so raised are usually 
wintered in the pots in a dry state and secure 
from frost. 

Winter management .—As soon as the frosts of 
autumn have destroyed the beauty of the plants, 
cat the tops down to within G inches of the 
ground. About a week afterwards, selecting a 
dry day for the operation, lift the roots carefully 
with a fork and place them in some airy outhouse 
or shed, each plant to have its name or number 
securely fastened to the remains of the stem. 
When the roots have been thoroughly ripened 
and dried they should be packed away in a fairly 
dry situation till it is time to excite them into 
growth again in spring. There are various ways 
of preserving the roots of Dahlias in wtoter. 
When the moisture which exudes from the 
stem has dried up, and the roots have entered 
into the state of rest which good cultivators seek 
to secure, they may be packed in dry sand in a 
cool room or building where frost cannot enter. 
I have kept them safely and well in a dry, dark 
cellar, on a shelf, stem downwards. The object of 
placing them in the latter position is to make 
sure of the moisture lingering about the base of 
the stem (if any remains) passing away from the 
crown, where it may set np decay. Dryness and 
coolness are the conditions aimed at, but the 
thermometer in the place must not descend below 
freezing point, as no part of the Dahlia will 
bear frost. Dahlias in cottage gardens fre¬ 
quently live through the winter in the ground, 
though in the event of a severe winter, if the 
frost reaches them they die; still, I have known 
them kept in this way for a long time, covered 
with a mound of ashes in winter before sharp 
frost sets in, but the plan has nothing to recom¬ 
mend it where really good culture is aimed at. 
Dahlias are not often employed as wall plnnts, 
but I once saw a low wall covered with them, 
and very effective it looked. The plants had 
been there for several years without removal 
when I saw them, and had acquired great 
strength, and being in a small, sheltered back 
garden, they commenced to flower early, and con¬ 
tinued to bloom long after those in the open gar¬ 
den had been cut off by frost. They were trained 
to the wall, and the growth being thinned and 
the leading shoots unstopped, the plants reached 
a considerable height. In winter the crowns 
were covered with Cocoanut-fibre. Altogether, I 


thought the idea was not a bad one, and showed 
that a mind untrammelled may discover novelty 
of treatment in many wajs if allowed scope. 
Dahlias are easily raised from seeds, and the 
seedlings flower the same year, though as regards 
the double varieties, unless tliebusiness is entered 
upon systematically and extensively, there is 
not much chance of eclipsing tho best varieties 
already sent out. I append the names of a few 
good varieties in the various classes:— 

Double Dahlias (Show ),— Annie Gibbons, 
primrose, 4 feet; Aurora, buff, 2.) feet; Bur¬ 
gundy, puce and maroon, 3.) feet; Canary, yellow, 

4 feet; Charles Lidford, yellow, crimson edge; 
Countess of Lonsdale, rosy lilac, 4 feet; Cardinal, 
scarlet, 3 feet; Celestial, French white, 3 feet; 
Comet, red, 2 feet; Critic, lilac; Cremorne, 
yellow, tipped with red, 3 feet; Crown Prince, 
pale buff, 4 feet; Ethel Britton, blush white, 
purple edge, 34 feet; Flag of Truce, white, lilac 
tipped, 3 feet f Frank Rawlings, magenta, 3 feet; 
George Goodall, scarlet and orange, 3 feet; 
Goldfinder, yellow, tipped with red, 2 feet; 
George Dickson, chestnut brown, 4 feet; Henry 
Bond, rosy lilac, 4 feet: Henry Walton, yellow, 
vermilion edge, 3 feet; Joseph Ashby, orange, 

3 feet; John Laing, scarlet, 3 feet; John Bennett, 
yellow, scarlet edges, 3 feet; John N. Keynes, 
yellow, 3J feet; James Vick, maroon, 3 feet; 
Miss Henshaw, white, 3£ feet; Mrs. Harris, 
white, lilac edge, 2.J feet; Mrs. Stancombc, 
yellow, tipped with fawn, 3 feet; Queen’s 
Messenger, purple, 3 feet; Maggie Fairbyrn, 
pale lilac, 3 feet; Ovid, purple, 3 j feet; Shirley 
Hibberd, dark crimson, 3 feet; Sarah McMillan, 
pink, 3 feet; Rev. Dr. Moffat, mulberry, 3 feet; 
Royal Queen, white, tipped with peach, 3 feet; 
Triumphant, rosy purple, 4 feet; W. H. Williams, 
scarlet, 1 feet; Pioneer, dark crimson, 3 feet. 

Double Dahlias (Fancy ).—Annie Pritchard, 
white, lilac and rose, 3.4 feet; Chorister, fawn, 
crimson and rose, 3 feet; Charles Wyatt, rose 
and crimson, 4 feet; Florence Stark, white 
and purple, 3 feet; Flora Wyatt, orange 
and red, 4 feet; Frederick Smith, lilac and 
purple, 4 feet; Hugh Austin, orange-scarlet 
and dark red, 4 feet; James O'Brien, yellow and 
crimson, 3 feet; Jesse McIntosh, red and white, 
34 feet; Jannette, sulphur, white tipped, 4 feet; 
Lady Antrobns, red and white, 3 feet; Beauty, 
yellow and light rose, 4 feet; Miss Bond, lilac, 
maroon spot, 3 feet; Professor Fawcett, lilac, 
chocolate stripe, 3 feet; Robert Bums, lilac and 
maroon, 3 feet; Regularity, blush white and 
crimson, 4 feet; Rev. J. R. M. Camm, yellow 
and red, 3 feet; Sam Bartlett, blush and crimson, 
3 feet; Trotty Veck, yellow and purple, 3 feet; 
William Ady, lilac and pnrple, 3J feet. 

Bouguct Dahlias .—For decorative purposes, 
especially for small gardens, these possess con¬ 
siderable value, indeed, they are useful every¬ 
where. Adonis, rosy carmine; Burning Coal, 
yellow and crimson; Camelliaflora, white ; Dove, 
white and rosy lilac ; Dora, primrose and white; 
Emotion, lilac ; Fireball, orange scarlet; Fair 
Helen, white and purple: Golden Nugget, 
yellow ; German Favourite, lake; Guiding Star, 
white ; Little Mistress, crimson; Little Nigger, 
maroon ; Minnie, salmon and purple; Northern 
Light, scarlet; Rogiere Chauvier, crimson and 
white. The Bouquet Dahlias, or Tompone, as 
they arc sometimes called, vary in height from 
2 feet to 24 feet. All have neat, double flowers. 
Some are valuable for cutting. 

Single Dahlias. —Attraction, pink and lake; 
Argus, magenta; Darkness, mulberry; Beauty 
of Cambridge, crimson; Elaine, white; Evelyn, 
white and lilac; Francis Fell, rosy purple; 
Harlequin, rose and purple; Magnificence, light 
pink; Mrs. llurbidge, violet purple; Ne Plus 
Ultra, dark crimson; Pink Queen, pink; Rob 
Roy, scarlet; Thalia, amaranth; Purple King, 
White Queen. 

The flowers of these single varieties have a 
light, elegant habit, and look well in the border. 
When pegged down they make a striking bed. 
They vary in height from 2 ) feet to 4 feet. 

E. Hobdav. 


Vol. I. "Gardening ” 1» out of print, »n<l we are 
therefore unable to further supply either eepwwte copiee 
or bound volume*. 




224 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[July 21, 1883. 


FRUIT. 

ALPINE OR FOtJR-SEASON STRAWBERRY. 
When one takes into consideration what a popu¬ 
lar fruit the Strawberry is, one may reasonably 
feel surprised that no serious attempt has hither¬ 
to been made to extend its fruiting season. As 
a fact, Strawberry time is far too short, coming 
to an end just when a good supply of fruit would 
be most acceptable; and what makes the matter 
even worse is that the best late kinds are not so 
prolific as one could desire. Take, for instance, 
the British Queen, the finest flavoured variety 
we have, and yet few grow it, simply because it 
is so exceptional in its requirements as to render 
it of but little value for general culture. The 
same remarks also apply to Frogmore Late Pine. 
What we need is a variety that would come 
naturally into fruit in the latter end of July. 
Some few years ago it really appeared as if in 
Perpetual Pine we had secured just what was 



Alpine or i’our-seaaon Strawberry. 


required. It was soon found, however, to be too 
shy a flowerer to be of much use, for although 
it maintained the perpetual bearing character 
given it, it never yielded fruit enough to make 
it a paying kind. It might, however, be made 
the means of obtaining for us what we need if 
crossed with some free-bearing kind, such as 
Vicomtesse H6ricart de Thury, which evinces a 
strODg tendency to produce fruit late in summer 
and in autumn, or perhaps Sir Harry, which 
exhibits a like inclination to flower succeBsion- 
ally throughout the summer. 

Failing a large-fruited, well-flavoured produc¬ 
tive kind, we have the little Alpine, or what the 
French fittingly term the Four Season or every 
month Strawberry, and if we can get rid of 
the notion that a Strawberry may be wholesome 
and refreshing without being large, we shall find 
that this small-fruited variety will fulfil all our 
requirements as regards a supply from the time 
our main crops are over. In French gardens the 
Four-season Strawberry is held in high estima¬ 
tion, fruit of it being obtainable all through July, 
August, and September, whilst to the market 
gardener it affords a welcome source of revenue 
at that time of year. So great is the love of the 
French for Strawberries, and so constant is the 
supply throughout the season, that the Strawberry 
man is as familiar a figure and as much an insti¬ 
tution in French towns as the Watercress man in 
the streets of London, making his rounds in early 
morning with his fruit neatly packed and tempt¬ 
ingly displayed in large baskets having many 
compartments, so that it comes to the purchaser 
in a fresh, unbruised condition. This is certainly 
one thing they do better in France than in 
England, a fact we should do well to recognise, 
for certain it is that a good supply of Strawberries 
in August and September would be appreciated 
by all classes in this country. 


BIG GOOSEBERRIES. 

The production of large Gooseberries is a hobby 
that may amuse, but has no real value. We do 
not so much want big Gooseberries as plenty of 
fair-sized fruits, and these of rich flavour, for 
dessert purposes, whilst the gardener and market 
grower, who have to furnish kitchens innumer¬ 
able, try to secure an abundance of kinds that 

Digitized by GOOgle 


will give regular crops and prove profitable. Now 
the market growers who have to furnish Goose¬ 
berries by thousands of bushels grow no fancy 
kinds. That fine red kind, the Lancashire Lad, 
is one of their chief favourites, for it is hardy, 
fruits freely, and these are of good size, so that 
it soon fills the bushel whilst young and green. 
The demand for green Gooseberries is a remark¬ 
able one; indeed, it is probable that twice as 
many fruits are gathered in a green state for 
market as are left to ripen, and as the price 
is always good at the opening of the season, the 
profit made upon the smaller green fruits is as 
large as can be made upon the ripe ones. Then 
the trees get the inestimable advantage of being 
relieved by their load of fruit very early, so that 
they are not so much distressed as are those 
which have to carry out heavy crops of ripe fruit. 
Rifleman, Crown Bob, both red, and Whitesmith, 
green, are other good market kinds. What is 
good for the market grower is good also far the 
private cultivator, and the sorts named are of 
great value for ordinary culture where the needs 
of a household have to be satisfied. For dessert, 
however, the large kinds will not do, and here 
where taste steps in it is not so easy to specialise 
just what kinds are the most desirable. Still, 
there are of green, yellow, and red sorts kinds 
that have a most pleasing flavour. Of green or 
white kinds, the Pitmaston Green Gage and the 
Hedgehog are both excellent. The former 
may be known by the erect habit of the bush, 
whilst the fruit is smooth and green and the 
skin thin. It hangs well. The Hedgehog is 
whitish, of medium size, roundish, and hairy. 
The bush grows erect, and is very prickly. 
Of yellow kinds, the best flavoured are 
Golden Drop, so early and so well known, 
and Yellow Champagne, a small hairy 
variety, the bush being of erect habit. The best 
reds are the Warrington, so well known in 
gardens for its drooping, spreading habit and its 
innumerable spines, fruit medium sized, hairy, 
and of rich colour; the Ironmonger, so deep in 
colour when ripe, the bush spreading; and the 
Red Champagne, often classed with the Iron¬ 
monger, but distinct, and of erect habit of 
growth, fruit a trifle oblong and tapering to¬ 
wards the stalk. It is one of the most delicious 
of dessert Gooseberries. One particular feature 
which marks the Warrington renders itspecially 
troublesome to gatherers. In this particular 
sort the spices or prickles are set in trebles, cot 
singly. This makes the bush peculiarly offensive. 
It is, however, a good grower, bears pruning 
well, and lives to an old age. It is not essential 
that all these good dessert kinds should be grown 
in any one garden, but still where daily desserts 
have to be furnished, variations from red to 
green, and again to yellow, with diversities in 
flavour, are very pleasing, and a dozen bushes of 
six kinds take no more room than the same 
number of bushes of one sort. Of those large 
kinds so generally called prize Gooseberries, 
the growing of which interests and amuses not a 
few Lancashire people, the following are good 
sorts : London and Clayton, red ; Antagonist 
and Lady Leicester, white; Cossack and 
Leveller, yellow; and China and Stockwell, 
green. Some of these are shy growers, and want 
good cultivation. D. B. 


9978— Planting Raspberries— All Rasp¬ 
berries like a cool, deep soil, but will at times 
thrive fairly well in a dry soil if helped by dres¬ 
sings of manure, and especially if laid on long 
and thickly as mulching early in the spring. 
There must be great care shown to leave only a 
few canes to each clnmp or stool, as too many 
may soon exhaust the moisture. Plant in Novem¬ 
ber and cut back hard early in the spring, as 
the strength of the roots must be thrown into 
getting up suckers or new canes rather than in 
supporting old ones. When once this sucker- 
growth is established, the plantation with good 
culture will endure for twenty more years. Good 
sorts are Fastolff and Northumberland Fill- 
basket.—D. 

9968.— Pear treee not fruiting.— These 
trees are probably in soil that is too rich and 
causes a too free flow of sap and consequent 
summer growth, so that the wood does not ri pen, 
or the unit buds do not get matured. This 
season, in any case, myriads of trees that were 
full of bloom have not a single fruit, and Pear 
seasons are the exception and not the rule. If 
we could ensure really warm ripening weather 
in September, and good seasonable weather in 


April, the blooming month, we might have 
plenty of Pears, but such good conditions come 
in combination very seldom.—A. D. 

9965.— Apple trees blighting.— The 
black blight seen on 'the leaves of Apple trees 
is the black aphis, a variety of this troublesome 
family that generally affects the Cheny, and 
hence is named aphis cerasi. Fumigating trees 
by makiDg beneath them a smouldering fire that 
will produce volumes of smoke and no flame is 
the best way to destroy the blight; or a mixture 
of sulphur, Scotch snuff, and quicklime in equal 
parts, with some soft soap to make it adhesive, 
and mixed in so much water that it can be 
syringed over the affected leaves, is a good 
method of destroying the insect also.—D. 

9970.— Strawberry plants for forcing. 
—What Princess does the querist refer to ! We 
know only Princess Alice Maud, an old kind, and 
now seldom grown for any purpose. It was 
esteemed in its day a very fair variety, 
but was never preferred to Black Prince and 
Keen’s Seedling for forcing. The four sorts 
now forced more than any others are Keen's 
Seedling, Vicomtesse Hfiricart de Thury, Presi¬ 
dent, and Sir Charles Napier, but the latter 
chiefly as a market fruit because it travels well. 
Get one of the three first named kinds and grow 
plants for forcing, and pitch the Princess to the 
rubbish heap.—D. 


OUTDOOR PDA NTS. 


IXIAS, SPARAXIS, TRITONIA8, Ac. 

These lovely spring flowering bulbs are far too ( 
little grown by owners of small ghrdens. They 
are classed as hardy, but it is only in favoured 
localitiesthattheydowellintheopen, whereasina 
cold frame they are quite happy, coming intobloom 
in March and April, and delighting with their < 
quaint forms and curious or brilliant colours. 
■September is the right time to pot them, and 
the earlier in the month the better, as then the 
soil becomes well filled with roots by the time 
the flower stalks sure thrown up, to the manifest 
advantage of the flowers, which come larger and 
with the colours more accurately defined. Ixias 
and their near allies, such as Babianas, Mor- 
phixias, Sparaxis, Tritonias, &c., are not by 
any means strong-rooted subjects, and must r 
therefore have good drainage and a very free i 
open soil. A compost which suits them well 
is leaf-mould one part and fibrous loam two % 
parts, adding to it 6ome coarse silver sand. Put 
five good flowering bulbs in a 4i-inch pot, or s 
about eight in a size larger ; water moderately 
after potting, and place the pots in a cool posi¬ 
tion, where they do not get quickly dried out or 
drenched with rain. There is no better place, 
rarely so good, in fact, as a frame, where the 
pots can be plunged to their rims in ashes or 
light soil, for it is a notable fact in connection v 
with bulbous-rooted plants that in their early 
stages ofgrowth they make roots most freely when 



Tritonla. 


the soil containing them is maintained in a con¬ 
dition between wet and dry. The north side of 
a wall or under the stages of a cool house are. 
however, positions that may be utilised with 
very good results, but in any case some care 
must be exercised in watering, never giving 
enough water to bring the soil into a close con¬ 
dition, but not allowing it to dry out. 


Jm 21, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


225 


Anemone ooronarla —“ J. D.'s" experi¬ 
ence of planting ont seedling plants of this 
Anemone and my own differs so widely that I am 
constrained to say that I regard his assertion 
that seedlings in leaf cannot be safely planted 
out to be as far from fact as can be. I have so 
dibbled out hundreds, indeed I may say thou¬ 
sands. from the seed boxes just when they had 
three or fonr leaves and were large enough to 
handle. Such plants never lost their leaves or 
even suffered, as they made root immediately 
end soon got strong. From seed sown at the 
end of Jane I had, two years in succession, large 
beds that were in the following spring truly 
crand with large and richly coloured flowers, 
quite astounding to see in plants but ten months 
raised from seed; and what I have done others 
may do safely.—A. D. 

Striped Petunias. —If anyone wonld wish 
for a bed of beautiful flowers in the summer 
with little trouble, let them get a packet of 
striped Petunia seed, sow it under glass in the 
month of March, and when the seedlings are 
large enough, either dibble them out into shallow 
bores or pans so that they have ample room to 
increase in size for transplanting with a trowel 
where they are to grow, or else put them singly 
into small pots from which they may be turned 
out into the bed when strong and well hardened. 
Hull's strain, as it is called, consists of medium- 
sized round flowers, all beautifully striped and 
mottled. The French strain includes large 
angular flowers that also are beautifully marked 
and are very varied. It is well to have both 
strains and intermix them, as then more variety 
is secured. The plants are just as good from 
seed as from cuttings.—A. D. 


Saxifragas as bedding plants.— The 

varieties of this genus are very numerous, but I 
will confine my remarks wholly to kinds well 
suited for parterre work in association with 
tnlinary bedding plants, and particularly such 
varieties as can be used in lieu of tender plants. 
The kinds in question are Aizoon, Aizoon minor, 
fvcsia, ceratophylla, hirta, hypnoides, oppositi- 
folia, rosularis, sarmentosa, and serratifolia. 
These are all of a dwarf spreading habit of 
growth, and are excellent for carpeting the 
.wound under tall-growing plants of any kind, 
«id also for edgings to beds of the common 
unds of bedding plants, and for forming the 
I i visional lines in geometrical patterns, or what 
ire more generally termed carpet beds. For the 
nost part the foliage of the kinds named is 
Either greyish white or green, colours that har¬ 
monise with any of the fine-foliaged kinds of 
■adders, and, what is more, they are perfectly 
xrdy, and can be left in their places throughout 
Ae winter.—W. VV. 

Moneywort (Lysimaohia Nummnlaria).— 
"cere are many species of LyBimachia, and 
core than one of them indigenous to llritain, 
cat as a decorative plant possibly none are 
useful as the common Moneywort, or Oreep- 
ag Jenny, as it is called. It is found wild in 
moos parts of the country, mostly in shady 
■iace 3 on the margins of pastures, near woods, 
o. It flowers during June, July, and August, 
■ 2 t whether in bloom or not it is always oraa- 
MEtal. It makes a fine border plant, but is 
all better suited for artificial rockwork, or as a 
.i/ginal plant for large vases or raised flower 
tds, for planting in window boxes, &c., where 
a pretty yellow blooms harmonise well with 
iose of blue Lobelia and other plants with 
» ich it may be associated. In pots it is well 
faptevd for a bracket in the greenhouse, or for 
i>pending in a wire basket in the conservatory 
• elsewhere. Indeed, it is one of those plants 
-rich appear to succeed in almost any situation, 
i under any conditions. A very pretty object 
ay be formed upon the lawn or in the flower 

I -v-rden by placing ja large flower-pot filled with 
r j O pon the end of a tree stnmp some 3 feet or 
£eet. in height. The Lysimachia should be 
anted round the sides of the pot; it will soon 
‘ nw down, and cover the outsides of the pot and 
rio the pedestal with its slender creeping stems 
*d bright yellow blooms, while the centre of 
pot may be occupied with a blue Lobelia or 
or other flowering plants. Moneywort is easily 
: reaped either by cuttings or by division to 
mv extent during either autumn or spring.— 

is. 


throe distinct Violas.— Violas are now 
-ach valued, that those * 

.-rmcrt kinds may with i 


to grow the following, viz.: Holyrood, a neat- 
habited variety, much darker than Tory, with a 
still darker blotch of purple in the centre, form 
good, and Bubstance better perhaps than that of 
many others of the same family; Sovereign— 
rightly named, for the colour is the deepest of all 
yellows j the shape, too, and substance are all 
that can be desired, and habit of growth cloBe 
and short jointed. So far as I have seen, these 
two varieties have only one fault, and that is 
they do not flower early enough to admit of 
their being used in the spring garden, but in the 
colder parts of England, where Violas are used 



for summer bedding, they must indeed be valu¬ 
able. The third kind is Vestal, a well-known 
white-flowered variety, unequalled in its class, 
at least with us in Somerset; it commences to 
flower early in April, and therefore we are able 
to use it in the flower garden along with other 
spring-flowering plants. It is a good grower, its 
habit is neat and compact, and it continues long 
in flower.—J. C. C. 

Myoaotia dissitiflora from seed.— 

Complaints of the difficulty of obtaining stock 
of this early Forget-me-not from seed are often 
made, and if dependence is placed on gathering 
seed in the ordinary way, there is mnch chance 
of losing the greater portion of it, the first- 
formed pods shedding their contents before the 
later ones are matured. There is no better plan 
than planting a few plants somewhat thinly 
together in a cool, moist situation, covering the 
surface with one inch of light soil when they 
come into bloom, and allowing the seeds to sow 
themselves naturally in it. All that one has to 
do is to keep the soil free from weeds, and quite 
a crowd of young plants will come up, not all at 
once, but many of them early in July, and these 
will make good plants for the following spring 
much superior as regards passing the winter and 
flowering to older plants.—J. 

Saxlfraga Wallace!. — This is the best 
of all the mossy Saxifrages. Two years ago we 
were advised to try a plant of it, and, like most 
other nursery plants, it was small and not effec¬ 
tive then ; but now, when it has multiplied into 
square yards, its beauty when in bloom is beyond 
all praise. It grows about six inches high, 
flowers and all, is dense and compact in habit, 
and the flowers form a complete sheet of white. 
It is readily increased by dividing the old plants 
and dibbling the pieces, with or without roots, 
into the ground in March. Planted six inches 
apart, it will cover the ground long before this 
time. It is perfectly hardy ; in fact, in Messrs. 
Dickson’s nursery at Edinburgh, 35° of frost 
failed to injure it. It is well adapted for an 
edging in any flower garden, and as a rock plant 
it is as much to be recommended as for any other 
purpose.—C. 

9967. — Propagating Carnations. — 

Where it is possible, it is far better to layer 
Carnation Grass than to make pipings of it. Still, 
in old plants it may be too thick, and some may 
1 need removing. If a hand-light or large bell- 


glass or cloche is at hand, take off pipings and 
put them in at once, whilst the wood is tender. 
Do not trim the tops, as some do. Make a small 
bed of sandy soil that is fine and good, place on 
the hand-light or bell-glass to mark out its 
dimensions on the soil, and then dibble in the 
cuttings thickly and firmly, give them a good 
watering, and cover up, shading in sunny 
weather.—A. 


ROSES. 

OLD-FASHIONED TOWN ROSES. 
Thebe are one or two things about Roses 
“ which no fellow can understand," and one of 
these is why certain kinds of Rosea which will 
grow in town or suburban gardens should be 
unprocurable at nurseries. What has become of 
the old white, the Maiden’s Blush, the common 
Damask, the perpetual Damask, and those hnge 
climbers so universal in cottage gardens in the 
north, and known there indiscriminately as 
monthly Roses 7 With regard to these Flora may 
well say to the generals and adjutants of her 
army of Roses, “ Give me back my legions,” 
when she wants to invade our smoky towns. No 
one would prefer these old Roses to such flowers 
as Marie Baumann, Victor Verdier, Louis Van 
Houtte, Baroness Rothschild, La France, 
Comtesse de Kerenye, or any of the established 
favourites amongst Perpetuals ; but for suburban 
gardens it is not a question of new Roses v. old, 
but between plants which produce nothing but 
shapeless masses of ragged petals and others 
which produce respectable flowers—between 
plants which hold their own under the ordinary 
cultivation which flowering shrubs receive and 
others which seldom or never produce anything 
like a decent return for the careful cultivation 
they require. 

In the course of a walk through part of Wool¬ 
wich and Blackheath I noticed some ten or 
twelve bushes of the old white Rose doing well 
with ordinary shrub cultivation seemingly, while 
standards and bushes of l’erpotnals in con¬ 
spicuous positions in the same gardens were 
going or gone. The soil is light and thin on 
porous gravel resting on chalk. Bushes of the 
old white may be seen in the suburbs striving 
to grow in unfavourable situations in such a 
way as to suggest almost the certainty of their 
doing well with care. Now, why should town 
gardeners be compelled, if they want Roses, to 
purchase budded plants which will not grow, 
and be unable to procure buBhes on their own 
roots of these old Roses that will grow 7 And 
why should our Rose growers not breed ub a 
race of Roses having the same power of thriving 
in smoke that the old Alba and Damask have 



Bahians. 


specially for town and suburban gardens, keep¬ 
ing to the open form of the Alba, and discarding 
as useless everything approaching the globular 
or cabbage form, which refuses to open in towns, 
but turns mouldy and drops off instead 7 

From a town amateur's point of view a great 
deal might be said against holding Rose shows 
in or near large towns, the result of a visit to 
one being in too many cases the purchase or a 
guinea bundle of standards of the finest exhi¬ 
bition Roses, which are carefully planted and 
tended. Result : well—Pea sticks wcnld have 
been quite as ornamental and much less trouble. 


226 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[July 21, 1883. 


Some years ago I was a daily spectator o£ some 
thirty suburban gardens newly laid out, my own 
being one, and it was curious to observe how 
nearly every occupier began gardening with the 
standard Rose as a feature. A few red, pink, or 
white spots, vaguely circular, appeared on the 
plants the first summer, but after that nothing 
much resembling a tiower. My own plants were 
mostly strong garden Roses on the Manetti, but 
I fared no bettor than my neighbours ; indeed, 
the so-called garden Roses did worst of all. I 
got three good blooms of Reynolds Hole and 
one of Comtesse de Kerenyc, but all the others 
wore worthless and refused to grow. In three 
years after planting all the Rose trees were dead 
or dying. Only the Maiden's Blush and a 
Damask did anything much after the first year, 
but these kept on very well. J. D. 


0U6O. — Roses oa fences— It is of more 
consequence, in attempting to cover a fence with 
Sokes, that the sorts should be of the right kind, 
that is good climbers, than whether they are 
worked on stocks or are on their own roots. In 
■lie latter case, all climbers are so robust in habit 

at they will drive the roots hard enough, and 
_e result will certainly be satisfactory. The 
great thing is to secure strong plants of good 
climbing kinds, such as climbing Devoniensis, 
Cheshnnt Hybrid, Reine Marie, Ilenriette, Gloire 
de Dijon, and Madame Berard, to get a fence 
covered in a short time. These may be obtained 
in pots, both on own-roots and on tho Manetti, 
at about 18s. per dozen. Cuttings may be taken 
from a Marguerite growing outdoors, but of 
coarse the plants must suiler some loss of bloom 
for a time. Select those shoots as far as possible 
that have not yet flowers on them.—A. 

yyG2.— Roses for forcing, —Before Roses 
in pots are subjected to forcing for the purpose 
of supplying flowers, they should be well rooted, 
or, as gardeners say, established. Much, there¬ 
fore, depends upon the sized pots into which 
they are put, but that can only be regulated by 
the sizes of the plants. In any case the pots 
should not be too large. It will not be advisable to 
lift the plants into pots before September, and they 
should be got into a house at once, so that they 
may be induced to make root; but of course, if 
the foliage fails, growth will be entirely checked. 
The soil should consist of two-thirds good, 
turfy loam that is full of fibre, and the other 
third of well-rotted manure from an old Cucum¬ 
ber bed, and some sharp sand. If the loam be 
of good quality, more of it and less manure may 
be used. Let the temperature the first season 
not exceed (10°, and do not begin forcing until 
March.—A. 


THE COMING WEEK S WORK. 


Extracts from a Garden Diary—July 23 to 
July 28. * 

Sowing Wheeter’a Imperial and ITeartwell Early 
Marrow Cabbage; also Broad-leaved and Green Curled 
Endive on a moist border ; planting out the last rows 
of Celery in trenches, in which has been put a good 
supply of well-rottecl manure, to which had previously 
been added soot and salt at the rate of 26 pounds of the 
former and 1 bushel of the latter to the load; putting 
Jargonelle Pears in gauze bags to protect them from 
wasps, &c. ; nailing and tying in leading shoote of Peaches 
and Nectarines; layering Strawberry runners in pieces 
< t turf 4 inches square which have previously been soaked 
in manure water ; sowing Brown Cos and All the Year 
Hound Lettuce, Red and White Turnip Radishes, and 
Early Horn Carrots for autumn use ; potting Primulas 
and Cinerarias for supplying cut flowers ; storing Shallots 
and Garlic in a cool shed; earthing up Celery whilst it is 
perfectly dry * stopping laterals through all Vineries 
where the fruit is ripening; hoeing, cleaning, and water¬ 
ing amongst late Peas; taking up a border of Early Asli- 
lenf Kidney Potatoes and laying them in the sun to get 
green for seed ; sowing Turnips ; putting in a few Pelar¬ 
gonium cuttings; staking Chrysanthemums; pruning aud 
nailing Plum trees; pulling up pickling Onions and lay¬ 
ing them out to dry; stopping and nailing the shoots of 
Tomatoes on walls; sowing Mignonette in pots; also 
Telegraph Cucumbers; renovating linings round all 
Melon and Cucumber frames ; digging ground (pre¬ 
viously occupied by Peas) for Cabbages ; hoeing among 
Gooseberries and Currants ; sowing Spinach; earthing 
up Leeks : thinning Turnips and Spinaoh ; sowing a bed 
of Early White Naples Onions for use in spring ; pulling 
up one portion of spring-sown Onions to dry ; gathering 
Gherkins, Cucumbers, Cauliflowers, Onions, dec., for 
mixed pickles. 

Glasshouses. 


Pelargoniums. —Such of the large flowered 
varieties of these as were placed out in tho open 
air after flowering and have sufficiently matured 
their shoots should be headed back; but though 
it is desirable to this operation completed 
without delay, a/upon its ' carried 


out depends the time when they will bloom next 
year, still heading down should never be at¬ 
tempted until the bases of the shoots have 
attained a woody condition and are quite hard. 
If the plants are already as large as it is de¬ 
sirable to have them, all the shoots should be 
cut down to within two or three eyes of where 
they were shortened to last year, letting the 
earth in the pots get quite dry before they are 
cut in; if this is not done many of the roots 
will perish. After cutting down they should be 
put in a cold pit or frame, and kept moderately 
close to induce them to break ; no water should 
be given them until they have broken, but a 
slight moistening overhead every afternoon will 
be an advantage. Should it be desirable to in¬ 
crease the stock of any kind, cuttings ought to 
be put in. Many who have the manage¬ 
ment of private gardens are now beginning to 
appreciate the merits of the decorative kinds; 
their profuso flowering disposition and compact 
habit make them most useful, and if well 
managed they make pretty blooming plants in 
one year from the time the cuttings are struck. 

Fuchsias. —In the pot culture of Fuchsias 
the system often followed of keeping old plants 
on for a number of years is quite a mistake, as 
they usually get bare and naked at the bottom, 
and are deficient in the fresh vigorous character 
which young stocks possess; if small specimens 
of the freest blooming kinds are grown, pretty 
plants can be had by midsummer; but where 
really fine examples are required either for exhi¬ 
bition or home decoration, to bloom from J uly 
to the end of September, there is no method by 
which they can be had equal to that of striking 
cuttings about the end of July, and keeping 
them growing slowly in an intermediate tem¬ 
perature through the winter; treated so they 
can be had from 4 feet to 5 feet high, and 3 feet 
through, furnished with shoots bearing a pro¬ 
fusion of flowers and healthy foliage that will 
all but hide the pots. For this system of culti¬ 
vation cuttings should at once be put in, 
selecting shoots for the purpose that are free as 
regards growth and not producing flower-buds, 
as if the latter are used they will strike slowly, 
and make slow progress afterwards. Where 
large examples are wanted early in the season, 
old plants will answer best; when these have 
been flowering for a considerable time they will 
begin to get exhausted. Where such is the case 
they may be turned out-of-doors to harden a 
little for a fortnight, and then have their shoots 
shortened in to about half their length, 
placing them in a close house or pit, syringing 
well, and as soon as they begin to push growth 
freely keeping them regularly supplied with 
weak manure water; managed in this way 
they will agtflh start away and flower 
until late in the autumn. A matter of importance 
in Fuchsia gi owing is to keep them freely syringed 
regularly two or three times a week, being careful 
to get the water well to the undersides of the 
leaves, without which they are all but certain to 
become infested with red spider; freedom from 
this pest, accompanied with seed-pods being 
picked off as soon as formed, is the only means 
of keeping these plants flowering freely the 
length of time they are capable of. 

Celosia pyrami dai.is. —At no season is this 
elegant plant of more use than when late, so as 
to be in flower up to the end of the year. If 
small stock newly vegetated are not already at 
hand, a pinch of seed should at once be put in; 
the plants resulting from this last sowing will, 
if well cared for, yet succeed, aud come in either 
for cutting or intermixing with other things. 
Where a sufficient stock of this Celosia is grown 
they heip to brighten up a conservatory or green¬ 
house better than most plants, their erect form 
of growth relieving the even surface which bushy 
specimens present. They are sometimes affected 
with red spider, but this pest can easily be 
avoided if the syringe is sufficiently used. 

Hydrangeas. —The panicle-flowered variety 
of Hyrangea is one of the best subjects for forcing 
or bringing on slowly in a cool house we have, 
being very superior to the oid variety. Where it 
has been so used, now, when the blooming is 
over, the plants ought to beturned out of the pots 
in good soil in an open, sunny place, have their 
strongest shoots well shortened back, and if the 
weather becomes dry, be well supplied with water; 
so treated, after another season’s growth they 
will be ready for again using in pots. Plants of 
tho ordinary kind that have been used for pot 


work should be similarly turned out of the pots, 
have the old bloom-shoots cut out, and the young 
growth usually existent at tho base of forced 
stock encouraged, so that it may be in a condi¬ 
tion to flower next season, which many of these '' 
forced plants will do if well cared for, although 
in their case it will be well not to attempt forcing, 1 
simply letting them come on in a cold house 
or pit, when they wifi be found very serviceable 
to follow the early-flowered examples. Young 3 
stock of this species struck from cuttings in the 
spring should be moved to the pots in which they ■ 
are intended to be forced, and plunged out-of- 
doors in the full sun, well attended to with water 1 
so as to ensure stout growth and get it well 1 
matured, on which their ability to produce fine 1 
heads of bloom next spring depends. 

Chrysanthemums. —Easy as these beauti- 1 
fui autumn-flowering plants are to manage, the 
press of other work in the busy summer season s 
often is the cause of their being so little attended * 
to that a fine head of bloom is out of the ques- 1 
tion. The stronger and more vigorous the 4 
plants are the more sustenance they will require 1 
in the 6hape of watering. Now that the pots e 
should be getting fairly full of roots they are 0 
best plunged in ashes, as then the temperature i 
of the roots is more equable, and they are less i 
likely to suffer through want of water. If the i 
best display obtainable for a long period is re- t 
quired, a few of the earliest blooming sorts i 
should also be cultivated. These will very soon 
be showing their bloom buds, and will bear weak g 
manure water using altogether. 

Flower Garden. 

General work.— The zenith of the flower 
garden season—every branch of it—having now 
been reached, it will be well to make note of the 
best arrangements, in order that, if thought de¬ 
sirable, they may be repeated another year; also 
to note errors of arrangements and kinds of 
plants that have failed to give satisfaction, that 
the one may be rectified and the other excluded 
next season. Perfection of keep, both as to turf, 
beds, walks, and all the surroundings, should 
now be the one great aim, for however perfect 
the arrangements and flowers may be, weeds, 
decaying flowers, and long grass will mar their 
enjoyment. Onr own routine at this season is 
something like the following: Beginning wills 
shrubbery clumps. Rhododendrons and Azaleas 
are freed from seed-pods, suckers are pulled 
off, straggling shoots cut in, weeds destroyed, 
and verges cut fortnightly; fernery and rock 
garden weeding, cutting in shrubs that en¬ 
croach on walks or over the Ferns, cutting off 
old flower-stems on rockwork, clearing rusty 
fronds off Ferns, and weeding out any of the 
common kinds to give room to the best 
varieties. The common Bracken we find very 
troublesome; owing to the soil having been 
brought from land where itgrows naturally, every 
particle of root with a joint soon makes a large 
plant. Sub-tropical beds are looked over weekly, 
in order to keep the plants well up to their sup¬ 
ports, and for the present the flowers are kept 
picked off Castor-oils, Cannas, Tobaccos, and any 
of the plants that we would rather grow large 
than to flower. The under-growths are either 
pegged down or are kept dwarf and spreading 
by repeated stopping, as may be needed by the 
kinds of plants used. When no such under¬ 
growth plants are employed, the beds are kept 
mulched either with leaf-soil or decayed manure. 
On the parterre there is always much to he done 
by way of trimming of formal bedding arrange¬ 
ments. Mentha, Mesembryanthemnms, Herni- 
aria, Sedums, and Saxifrages require to be 
clipped or pressed down at least once a week : 
Verbenas, Petunias, and the like to be pegged 
down ; and part of the flowers should be picked 
off Calceolarias and all the seeding flowers off 
Violas; they are also kept mulched with rotten 
manure, and under such treatment never wane, 
either as regards vigour or flower, in the driest 
season. Roses are gone over once a week for the 
purpose of cutting off bad flowers and shorten¬ 
ing long shoots. Climbers are twisted or tied to 
their supports, and those on walls syringed to 
keep them free from insects. Mowing and clip¬ 
ping turf verges and clipping Box edgings. 
Privet, Laurel, and Yew hedges complete the 
round of flower garden labour at the present 
time. 

Annuals.—M any annuals, although beautiful 
while in bloom, are sometimes of short duration. 
They should (if the seed is not required) be 




Jnt 21, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


227 


cleared off as soon as their beauty is over, and 
be immediately replaced by other plants. 

Eiexsialh AND perennials raised from 
seed sown during the spring must on no account 
be allowed to stand too close in the beds, for if 
crowded, the whole get drawn up weakly, and 
a season is so far lost that they flower only 
meagrely the ensuing spring and summer. In 
preparing nursery beds" for those that do not 
absolutely require a shaded position, select an 
open position where they wall make close, 
compact growth, which will enable them to 
stand the winter and produce double the quan¬ 
tity of flowers that can be obtained from weakly- 
grown examples. Those that do not like full 
expos arc to the sun, as, for instance, Primroses 
and Polyanthuses, should have a place at the 
north side of a wall, not, as they are often 
seen, crammed away under the shade of trees 
that not only T darken them too much, but im¬ 
poverish the soil to an extent that prevents them 
attaining anything like the necessary strength 
and vigour. 

Herbaceous bobdees.— Stake and tie every¬ 
thing that requires it before it is broken down 
by the wind, especially tall-growing subjects like 
Hollyhocks. These fine plants are often thrust 
at the extreme back of a border, close up to 
trees or shrubs, where there is no possibility of 
their ever being more than mere shadows of what 
they would grow to if justice were done to them; 
in such places the bottom leaves are usually all 
destroyed by red spider before their flowering is 
half over. Mulching with 11 inches of rotten 
manure over the roots will greatly assist them, 
and a free use of the syringe with clean water 
i wice a week, taking care to moisten the roots as 
well, will much improve their health and ap¬ 
pearance. Remove all dead and decaying tops 
from plants that have flowered early, in order to 
rednee to a minimum the greatest drawback to 
herbaceous plants; but for the sake of mere ap¬ 
pearance never remove the healthy tops from 
any plant, or the never failing result will be to 
weaken it seriously. 

Violets.— Well-established plants of Violets 
are now throwing out strong runners, and if a 
stone be placed on each so as to press them to 
the soil, good strong plants can soon be obtained. 
As soon as they have begun to root into the soil 
the runners should be lifted and planted out in 
a piece of well-prepared ground in the form of a 
bed, and they will yield fine flowers early in 
antumn and winter if the weather be at all open 
and warm. The state of the weather has much 
to do with the production of flowers. 

DianthUS. —The annual varieties are now 
getting into fnll bloom. There is the well-known 
Indian Pink (Dianthns chinensis) and its double 
form ; both are now in flower, and they contain 
very charming varieties, especially those having 
fringed edges. Then there is the pretty dwarf 
Dianthns Heddewigi and its fringed variety 
laciniatns, both large and rich in colour. The 
best soil for these annual Dianthuses is one of a 
light, sandy nature. The seeds can be sown in 
the open ground, and the plants thinned out to 
a requisite distance when the seedlings are large 
enough to be handled. 

Fruit. 

Vines. —Muscats now beginning to take their 
iaxt swelling should have their roots well 
mulclred with half rotten stable manure, the 
ammonia from which will be found inimical to 
red spider, while its stimulating properties will 
benefit the foliage and draw many of the active 
surface roots to the influence of warmth and air 
so essential to the perfect finish of this valuable 
Grape. K eep a sharp look out for scalding in the 
case of Lady Downes, should the weather continue 
as colcl and unsettled as it has been of late, and 
counteract its injurious effect by maintaining a 
high temperature of 70° with a little top air, and 
by ventilating freely through the day. To insure 
rhe ripening of this and all the best kinds of 
winter Grapes by the middle of October, the above 
agures should be continued as the minimum with 
a corresponding rise through the day, and if these 
cannot- t>e secured from solar heat alone, steady 
firing-, while it increases the size of the berries, 
will be found more economical now than sharp 
forcing with double the amount of fuel in 
:he autumn, when the drapes should bo suffi- 
rientlp advanced to require cool treatment, and 
he Vines will deriveIgreab bsneft(fj*i Com¬ 
parative rest. VJVr X * '- 


Houses in which ripe Grapes are hanging will 
require just enougli gentle fire heat to prevent 
condensation of moisture on the berries, and in 
the event of their being wanted to keep for any 
length of time, two or three folds of a fishing- 
net thrown over the roof will break the direct rays 
of the sun, as black Grapes soon lose their colour 
and freshness at this season. It may also bo 
necessary to protect outside borders from 
extremes of heat and drenching rains by adding 
more non-conducting material, or by drawing 
tarpaulings over them until all the Grapes are 
cut. It is not, however, a good plan to allow 
Grapes to hang longer than is absolutely neces¬ 
sary, as late hanging is almost as great a tax to 
the Vines as early forcing; but where heavy 
crops have to be kept, the cutting of the last 
bunch should be followed by liberal supplies of 
diluted liquid to the inside borders, and good 
syringing to keep the foliage clean and healthy. 
Encourage newly-planted Vines to make rapid 
growth by closing early with plenty of solar beat 
and moisture. Keep the laterals pinched to one 
or two buds, stop the leaders when they have 
filled two-thirds of the trellis, and then allow an 
unrestricted growth np to the end of the season. 

Hardy fruits. —Peaches, Nectarines, and 
Apricots which have not been nailed in should 
have immediate attention. Before nailing is 
commenced, stop all laterals and sub-laterals, and 
pinch the points out of growths which are likely 
to become too strong, and carefully guard 
against overcrowding by laying in a single shoot 
that will have to be cut away in the winter. 
Follow up the removal of breastwood from l'lums 
and Pears on walls and espaliers, commencing 
at the top and working downwarils, and lay in 
no more wood than is wanted, as the spurs and 
buds will require all the warmth and light that 
can be secured to them. Net Morello Cherries 
to protect the fruit from birds, but first of all 
see that the tips of the shoots are free from 
black aphis, and, if necessaiy, repeat the 
dipping in Tobacco water. Prune and net 
Currants, but do not cut the young growths too 
short, as a moderate quantity of foliage protects 
the fruit from sun and rain, and favours its 
keeping well into the winter. Strawberries are 
a very heavy crop. Vicomtesse Hfiricart de Thury 
and the good old Elton are two of the best for 
preserving purposes. Paxton resists wet better 
than President. Oxonian, Loxford Seedling, 
and Frogmore Late Pine, now coming in, are at 
the head of the list of late varieties. We plant 
Oxonian extensively on north borders, and find 
it the most valuable and profitable crop we can 
grow. If Cherries or Currants occupy the wall, 
a fishing-net, supported on slanting laths running 
from the top of the coping to the margin of the 
walk, protects the two crops, and the fruit is 
accessible at all times. When the gathering is 
over for the season, beds that are to be retained 
may be dressed ont and well mulched with 
rotten manure or fresh loam, which is equally 
valuable in old gardens. Follow up prepara¬ 
tions for new beds, and get them planted before 
the young plants become pot-bound. 

Vegetables. 

Shallots, Garlic, early Peas, early Cauliflowers, 
autumn-sown Onions, and the earliest kinds of 
Potatoes ought to be harvested, and as soon 
as they are lifted let the ground be cropped as 
follows; On the Shallot, Garlic, and Onion 
ground put Lettuces, Endive, Turnips, and 
Early Horn Carrots; on the Cauliflower ground, 
winter Spinach; and on the Potato ground, 
Broccoli or other kinds of winter Greens. If the 
ground was well treated for the preceding crops, 
no preparation beyond that of cleaning and 
levelling will now be necessary. We usually 
plant the main crop of Broccoli on the Straw¬ 
berry plot that has done duty for two years. As 
soon as the fruit has all been gathered, the 
plants are planed off with spades, and the 
Broccoli planted between the rows, in holes 
made with a crowbar, and filled in with fine soil. 
Under these conditions Broccoli thrives at least 
as well as on ground that has been elaborately 
prepared, putting ont of the question the saving 
of labour and time. Small saladings, Mustard, 
Cress, Radishes, &c., may still be sown in open 
borders in small quantities weekly, and as 
French Beans are not likely to do much good 
outside, provision should be made for makiDg a 
sowing forthwith cither in frames or fn pots, to 
bo introduced into houses or pits as room can be 
found for them. 


Tomatoes. —The naturally vigorous habit of 
these plants is such that they usually grow too 
rank if they receive over much moisture at the 
roots, but in exceedingly dry weather they must 
be regularly supplied with water, or the fruit 
will neither swell to the requisite size nor will 
the plants continue growing. Do not allow them 
to get too lunch crowded with superabundant 
shoots or to hang loosely from the wall, or the 
progress will be slow. They should be kept 
regularly and evenly trained, so that the sun can 
reach every part. 

Herbs. -In drying herbs, an open shed or 
room, where plenty of air can be given, is 
necessary. Stretch ont a piece of netting, such 
as is used for protecting fruit from birds (wire 
netting if at hand will do); on this lay the 
herbs (which should be cut when quite dry) 
thinly. Thus treated, air acts upon them from 
all sides, and they dry quickly without losing 
their best properties. When perfectly dry put 
them loosely in white paper bags, tie them np, 
and hang them where they will be free from 
damp. Herbs treated in this way will be found 
to be but little inferior to such as are fresh cut. 
riage should now be propagated by slips, taking 
off middling-sized branches and inserting them 
moderately deep in the ground in rows where 
they are to be grown. If the weather becomes 
dry give them plenty of water until they are 
rooted. The advantage of growing Sage from 
slips or cuttings is that plants so produced have 
not such a disposition to flower as those raised 
from seed. 

WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

Bedding plants of all kinds are now in full 
beauty, and after the almost perfect weather we 
have been enjoying lately, a splendid display 
ought to be had, with ordinary care and attention 
to neatness, Ac. Keep aU dead leaves and flowers 
regularly removed, the surface of the beds 
occasionally hoed over, watering properly 
attended to, and grass and gravel frequently 
out and rolled, and a garden, even a town garden, 
is indeed a “ thing of beauty " at this season of 
the year. 

Dahlias and Astebs. —Dahlias are now in 
full growth, and need careful staking and abun¬ 
dant watering both at root and bfanch. These 
favorite flowers can scarcely be overfed, therefore 
give some good liquid manure at every alternate 
root watering. The same remarks apply equally 
well to Asters, which should now be advancing 
rapidly. These beautiful autumn-flowering plants 
are far too often sadly neglected, even where 
they are grown at all ; a few plants stuck 
in here and there in the borders and left 
to take their chance is all that is 
thought necessary. This really means more 
than half starving a very beautiful and still 
more useful flower, and those who grow them 
thus do not know what an Aster really is. On 
the other hand, we do not know of any more 
beautiful sight in the whole floral world, than a 
good bed (properly prepared, i.e„ deeply dug 
and heavily manured) filled with well grown 
plants of Victoria or Chrysanthemum Asters. 
There is a fulness and softness about both the 
flowers themselves and their colours, seldom to 
be met with in any other flower. In short, 
Asters are well worth, and will amply repay, 
any amount of trouble and care; moreover, it is 
a positive fact that they can be grown to per¬ 
fection in almost any atmosphere, however 
impure, which is more than can be said of most 
other plants. 

Chrysanthemums that have rooted out well 
in their flowering pots, will soon need a stimu¬ 
lant of some kind to keep them in full and 
healthy growth. Use the manure water weak 
at first, and gradually increase the strength and 
frequency of the dose until the buds are swollen 
to near the point of showing colour. Cut down 
Pelargoniums that have been liardening off 
after flowering, and put in the tops for cuttings. 
These will root readily in pots of sandy soil, 
either out-of-doors in a semi-shaded position, or 
in a cool frame or house. Do not give mnch 
water after the first good soaking until they 
have formed roots and are commencing to grow. 

Zonal Geraniums for early winter flowering 
should now be placed in the pots in which they 
are to bloom. After potting keep them for three 
or four weeks in a rather shady bouse or frame 
| kept somewhat close. + o iron re them to root ou 


228 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[July 21, 1883. 


and make some amount of growth, then expose 
them in the most sunny and open position you 
can find out of doors, water very sparingly, and 
keep all buds picked o:T as soon as they show. 
Plants thus treated and brought into a warm, 
light house in November, or a little earlier if 
needed, will burst into a blaze of bloom directly, 
and last a long while too. Six of the best for 
winter flowering are W. B. Miller, H. M. Pollet, 
Tom Bowling, The Spencer, Hettie, and Vesu¬ 
vius ; these are all single. I have never seen any 
doubles doing much good in the winter except 
Madame Thibaut, Wonderful, and the beautiful 
“ Winter Queen.” T. V. Raspail, lovely as it is 
in summer, does not open a truss a month in the 
dark days. 

Keep Cinerarias and Primulas growing on 
quickly for winter blooming. Give both, however, 
plenty of light and air too in favourable weather, 
both by night and day. B. C. R. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


TROI’.EOLUMS. 

Of Tropamlums some are annuals, including the 
well-known T. aduncum, or the Canary flower, 
others are of dwarf habit, and nearly all of them 
form very ornamental and free-flowering decora¬ 
tive plants for open air culture in this country 
during the summer months. T. Lobbianum is a 
fine winter flowering plant. Among the tuberous- 
rooted perennial species one or two are quite 
hardy, and succeed well in the open air, such as 
T. tuberosum, a kind which forms an exceedingly 
ornamental object when trained on a wire trellis 
or arches of any kind in the flower garden or 
elsewhere. Being of a free habit of growth as 
well as a profuse bloomer, it continues in such 
situations in the greatest beauty throughout the 
entire season, at the end of which the tubers may 
either be taken up and stored away in sand or dry 
soil, or they may be allowed to remain where they 
grow during the winter and separated the follow¬ 
ing spring. Most of the other tuberous species, 
however, are best suited to the front part of a 
greenhouse or some similar situation under glass. 
When well grown they produce a remarkably 
pretty effect in spring, trained to wire trellises 
of any desired form, or over the top of a 
young Larch tree, a grotesque branch of a 
Thorn or other plant, which should of course 
be securely fixed to the pot containing the 
tuber, or, if desired, the shoots may be trained 
to wires or strings, stretching along the front of 
the house, extending under the rafters or other¬ 
wise. In whatever form they are trained, few 
plants are capable of producing a better effect 
during the early months of spring than the 
tuberous Tropieolums. 

Fob greenhouses. —Amongthebest varieties 
for greenhouse culture are T. speciosum, T. 
tricolorum grandiflorum, T. Jarratti, and T. 
azureum. The flowers of azureum are of a light 
blue colour, and produced in profusion, and 
when well grown it is altogether a charming 
plant. About the middle of October is possibly 
the best time to start the bulbs or tubers, unless 
they start into growth of their own accord before 
that time, which they sometimes do, when they 
should be at once potted. The tubers may be 
started in small pots, from which, as soon as the 
plants have made some progress, they should be 
carefully transferred to their flowering pots, 
which need not exceed 8 inches in diameter. 
Most growers prefer to place the tuber in its 
flowering pot at once, which is possibly the best 
plan, and if this is done it is necessary that the 
pots used should be perfectly clean, inside as 
well as outside, as well as carefully drained, 
which is, perhaps, best accomplished by inverting 
a small or 2^-inch pot over the hole, filling all 
round it with clean pieces of potsherd, or char¬ 
coal to the height of the small pot; over all 
place a thin layer of Sphagnum Moss, which 
will effectually prevent the soil from mixing 
with the drainage. 

SOIL and WATER. -In order to grow these 
plants to the greatest possible perfection a some¬ 
what rich compost is necessary, which may be 
formed of nearly equal parts ofwell decomposed 
hot-bed or stable-yard manure and rich turfy 
loam, with possibly a portion of silver sand 
added if the loam is inclined to be heavy, and 
in addition to this a handful of half-inch bones 
may with advantage be^scattered over the Moss 
which covers the drainage, 'Vherel this or a 
similar practice is Vgufiftgo. it W fpVpd that 


when the roots of the plants lay hold of the 
same a freedom of growth as well as a profusion 
of bloom is generally the result. When the 
tubers are planted at once in their flowering pots 
they should be placed in the centre of the pots; 
they should not be planted deeply, but should be 
merely covered with the soil, which should be 
pressed somewhat firmly around them, and to 
settle all down properly a slight watering with a 
fine rosed watering-pot may be given. No more 
water will then be required for some considerable 
time, as the plants will not for some time root 
into the soil—at least not until considerable 
progress has been made in the development 
of the young shoots. In order to prevent the 
soil becoming too dry, the surface of the 
pots should be covered with Moss or some 
other mulching material, which will tend to 
check evaporation, and the pots should for a time 
be placed in a pit or frame. When the plants 
have made some growth, they may be placed 
where they are intended to flower, and a com¬ 
mencement may be made in training or regula¬ 
ting the shoots in order to induce them to cover 
the wires or trellises intended for them. Water 
should at first be given sparingly, or until the 
pots are well filled with roots, when an abundant 
supply will be required, and if the pots are 
small compared with the dimensions of the 
plants, weak manure water may with advantage 
be given to them occasionally. But if soil and 
pots of the size recommended are used, this will 
seldom be necessary. 

Resting.—A s the flowering season draws to¬ 
wards a close, the supply of water should be 
gradually diminished, and ultimately the tubers 
should be shaken from the soil, and may be 
stored in sand or dry earth until the time for 
planting again arrives. Under favourable con¬ 
ditions the tubers of most sorts will be found to 
have more or less increased, and the largest of 
them should be selected for flowering the follow¬ 
ing season; while the smaller ones may be 
planted in pots or seed-pans, and will, under 
proper treatment, generally be found large 
enough for this purpose the second season. 

P. G. 


PLANTS FOR HANGING BASKETS. 
Many plants show themselves off to advantage 
when grown in baskets and suspended from the 
roofs of lofty conservatories and other structures. 
It is not necessary, nor is it in most cases advis¬ 
able, to turn them out of their pots into the 
baskets, although that may, if desired, be done. 
Generally speaking, however, they should be grown 
in pots or pans, in soil or compost known to be 
suitable for them, and these should be placed 
inside the baskets, and surrounded and concealed 
by Sphagnum Moss, which will tend to keep the 
soil from becoming too dry, which is not unlikely 
to occur when such pots are exposed to direct solar 
influences. Nearly all epiphytal Orchids may be, 
and generally are, grown in this manner, and itis 
undoubtedly the most effective way in which to 
grow many of the finest Ferns, such as the Adian- 
tums, Davallias, Nephrolepis, Woodwardias, <tc.; 
while the prettiest of the Selaginellas will grow 
freely upon the Sphagnum Moss with which the 
baskets are filled. Such species as S. denticulata 
will suit baskets intended for the greenhouse or 
cool conservatory, and S. c.-csia, S. delicatissima, 
and S. albo-spica baskets likely to be suspended 
in warmer structures. All the varieties of Achi- 
menes succeed well suspended, and the various 
.Eschynanthuses never appear so much at home 
as when hung from the roof of the structure con¬ 
taining them—a remark which also applies to 
Hoya bella, H. Paxtoni, the various Pitcher 
plants, Oxalises, Russelia juncea, and Torenia 
asiatica and T. Fournieri. Of the two ToreDiaB 
the last named is the most beautiful, although 
an annual; it should be sown in heat early in 
February. 

Many other species of what are known as 
stove plants are likewise found suitable for sus¬ 
pending, together with various hardier species 
suited for the greenhouse or cool conservatory, 
such as some of the now numerous varieties of 
tuberous-rooted Begonias, Convolvulus mauri- 
tanicus, Cantua dependens, Lophospermums, 
Maurandias, and the different varieties of the 
double as well as the single flowered Ivy-leaved 
Pelargoniums. Some of the many fine varieties 
of Phlox Drummondi, when grown under glass 
in this manner, produce a remarkably fine effect ; 
as does also the blue Nemophila insignia, which 


produces in early spring flowers nearly double 
the size of those produced in the open air at a 
later period of the year. Many of the Saxi¬ 
frages, &c., are also exceedingly useful for this 
purpose. Large baskets filled with plants are, 
as has been stated, very effective when suspended 
in conservatories. P. G. 


9976.— Pelargoniums.— The show or large- 
flowered is the oldest exhibition section of the 
Pelargonium, and may always be distinguished 
by the large, open, smooth, rounded form of the 
flowers, which are of the most varied hues. The 
section is beaten by others in floriferousness, 
but not in beauty, as each individual flower is a 
picture in itself. Such kinds as Amethyst, 
Illuminator, Claribel, and Archduchess are per¬ 
fect and most beautiful examples. Fancy kinds 
are smaller and far more profusely flowered, the 
plants are of less robust habit, often in the 
blooming season literally smothering the foliage 
with flower. The hues are chiefly purplish, 
lilac, and white; and four capital examples are 
Delicatum, Princess Tcck, Pilgrimage, and Nellie 
Fordham. Regal kinds are most grown for 
market purposes. They are very robust and 
free. The flowers are of many rich hues, and in 
all cases borne in large trusses. Each flower is 
crnmpled or crimped so much as to make them 
look like semi-doubles. All the distinctive 
beauty seen in the flowers of other kinds is lost 
in these. Good sorts are Volanthe National, 
Beauty of Oxton, Captain Raikes, and Madame 
Thibaut. French spotted kinds resemble these 
in habit, but have open flowers. Duchess of 
Bedford, Decorator, Prince Arthur, and Lady 
Isabel are good kinds.—A. D. 


VEGETABLES. 


BROCCOLI FOR WINTER. 
Whenever the thermometer in winter falls 
below 10°, Broccoli is sure to suffer; but it is 
possible to increase the power of the plants to 
resist cold by adopting a common-sense system 
of culture. A dwarf, stout, firmly built-up stem 
or leg is what is required, and this stem or leg 
should be well clothed with foliage to the bottom. 
This description of plant cannot be obtained by 
close planting during any period of its existence. 
Many err in leaving their plants too long in the 
seed-bed, whereby they acquire a weak, spindly 
habit, which clings to them through life. 

The seeds should be sown thinly in drills, at 
least 9 inches or 10 inches apart, thus giving 
plenty of space for earth-6tirriDg and for air and 
light to circulate around them. A certain per¬ 
centage of all seedling plants is of weakly 
habit, and if the plants which are to form the 
plantation cannot be selected from the crowded 
rows and pricked out, early, at least the weak¬ 
lings should be pulled up to give the best plants 
more room. Land for Broccoli should be in 
good heart, though it need not be freshly 
manured or even dug. Here where we manure all 
ground at least once in twelve months we never 
manure specially for Broccoli nor yet dig, firm 
land being essential to build up that hard fibry 
growth which alone has the power to resist un¬ 
favourable atmospheric influences. No hard or 
fast line should, however, be laid down, for I 
have known cases in which both manuring and 
digging were decidedly beneficial. In some 
situations land dug over in summer takes long 
to consolidate; in others it settles down almost 
immediately after the first heavy shower. I had 
charge of a place some years ago in Norfolk 
where the ground was light and sandy, and from 
experience I found that it was desirable both for 
Broccoli and Cauliflowers to dig a hole for each 
plant, place a couple of spadesful of rotten 
manure in each hole, return the soil, press it 
down with the feet, and plant the young Cauli¬ 
flowers or Broccoli with a dibble in the centre. I 
refer to this to show how necessary it is to 
closely observe local conditions and circum¬ 
stances, as whether we will or not their influences 
will make themselves felt. I have often been 
obliged to plant Broccoli and other winter 
greens 

Between the nows of Potatoes, missing 
every alternate drill, so that the rows of 
Broccoli stood 5 feet apart, and when tho Potatoes 
were taken up the leaves of the Broccoli plants 
wculd pretty well meet. It is not so well to"plant 
among the large-topped late Potatoes, as they 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


22ft 


Jn.Y 21, 1883. 


] 




occupy the ground too long, but no great harm is 
done to the early Potatoes by the presence of 
the Broccoli. Of course no one would adopt 
this plan if they had land vacant. I hare often, 
when hud pressed for space—which is generally 
the cue in summer when we desire to make the 
most of the ground—planted Broccoli somewhat 
thickly on an early south border and trans¬ 
planted them in October to an open position, 
giving them more space and inclining their 
heads to the north; in short, heeling them in. 
In this way the whole, or at least a great part, 
of the stem is buried, the mass of leaves en¬ 
closing the heart resting on the ground, and so 
being well protected. I have generally saved 
these even in cold winters, and the heads usually 
come good in size, at least large enough for 
ordinary use, and very close and white. As re¬ 
gards the 

Distance ai-aiit at which Rroccoli should 
stand when making their growth, I always 
maintain it is better to have 500 plants 3 feet 
apart each way than to have double the number 
of plants on the same space with the 
growth drawn up soft and weakly, unable 
to resist cold. If the plants have been rightly 
selected and managed, each ought to profitably 
occupy a square yard. Veitch’s Autumn Self- 
protecting Broccoli is an excellent one, and if 
put out early will be fit for use before the C'auli- 
fowere are finished. Next comes Snow’s Winter 
Vhite, and this will hold on if lifted and pro¬ 
moted till the early spring kinds come in. It is 
tow comparatively easy to fill np the whole year 
rith Broccoli and Cauliflowers. Cattcll's Eclipse, 
rough not quite white, is still one of the best late 
ends. Cooling'B Matchless, Perkins's Leamington, 
•'atts’s Excelsior, Westwood Park, and Button's 
aeen are all excellent varieties when true, 
n winter all Broccoli turning in are safest lifted 
ad planted in a cool house or pit, but if lifted 
afore the hearting process has commenced, the 
rting will prove a failure, so far at least as for- 
nrding the hearts is concerned, though if the 
■art has begun to turn in, the process will be 
rrtened rather than checked by removal to a 
1 s t or house into which frost cannot penetrate to 
I i injurious extent. E. 


Seed-sowing In dry weather.— To 

tain successions of many things it is necessary 
sow frequently. Though spring is the season 
Sr sowing the bulk of the main crops, yet in 
eLl managed gardens, where every yard of land 
made the most of, seed-sowing must be a con- 
att business ; and if during a severe time of 
tnght the seeds cannot be got in, or if they do 
.Terminate, there is a break in the-supply of 
iv particular article. Take the case of any 
nmon vegetable in daily use, such as Tnmips 
- Lettuces. The seeds will not grow in a dry 
sty soil at this season; and yet it is important 
it both these crops should be sown now, more 
toss in proportion to the demand. The same 
Sg occurs in the case of late Peas. The 
son will soon be past for them, and in dry 
ations the seed may sometimes be in the 
e; for days without making a move, simply 
1 cause there is not sullicient moisture in the 
> induce germination. Ours is a porous 
at this season, even if there are flying 
is there are now, we always like to well 
l liquid manure the drills for Peas, 
Beans, Turnips, Radishes, Endive, 
and other things, and draw the drills 
than wotdd be necessary early 
son. Where there is no liquid manure 
a pound of guano, or two or three 
of superphosphate and a couple of pounds 
into a barrel of water. Stir the water 
Lh an old birch broom, and well soak the 
sow the seeds immediately, and cover 
e dry soil drawn out of the drills. So 
the young plants come up strong and 
and get away from Insect pests at once 
rapid growth. In some cases shade may 
with great advantage. I found the 
expedient of hanging nets over a bed of 
of great value in a twofold sense during 
tb jy seasons we had ten or a dozen years ago; 
34 vese dry times will very likely come back 

"Ntatoes for exhibition. —A correspon 
Jeetaj-jires how he is to prepare Potatoes for 


the best and most even-sized ones, preserve them j Tomatoes than that usually applied to Peach trees 
in dry saw-dust to the day or so before the show; ! in span houses, because then the plants get all 
then get them oat, wash and wipe them dry, re-1 the light and air possible. Thin the fruit, pinch 
select the handsomest, after being washed paper out needless shoots, and give an ample supply of 


them up, and pack carefully for travelling. There 
can be no difficulty in selecting rounds from 
kidneys, because the forms of the tubers are so 
diverse and the sorts so distinct. When we are 
lifting roots we select as we lift any specially 
good-looking tubers, and lay them on one side. 
After the sort or row is lifted, these selected 
tubers are gathered up separately, and if, on a 
second look, any seem imperfect, they are rejected. 
Show tubers Bhonld be free from scab or 
rust. They should have no disease about them or 


water. Liquid manure may be given freely after 
the plants have become strong and fruit is being 
formed.—D. B. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


WHITE WEIGELA 

(W. HOKTEN8IS NTVEA.) 

Of all the varieties of the Chinese and Japanese 
Weigelas now in gardens, none possesses such 
worm holes, or be in any way disfigured. Very delicate beauty as the white-flowered variety of 


large tubers should also be rejected, as these are W. hortensis, of which the annexed illustration 


rarely shapely. A dish should be always of even 
size. We prefer setting them up in plates as fol¬ 
lows : If nine tubers are shown, place six of the 
smallest tubers for a base, and then put the other 


is a representation. The flowers are snow-white, 
and borne as profusely as those of the well-known 
W. rosea, and they are set off to advantage by 
the bright green of the foliage, with which they 


White-flowered honly shrub (Weigels horteuaU nlvea). 


three on the top to the best advantage. In the 
case of a collection good setting np is of consider¬ 
able importance.—D. B. 

Tomatoes under glass.— Unless Tomato 
plants in houses can have almost unlimited space 
to cover, the roots are best in pots. Tomatoes will 
find food almost anywhere ; they literally eat up 
the soil with their enormous mass of root fibres, 
but at. the same time top growth is made in Buch 
abundance that the knife must be ever in request 
to keep it within bounds. What is needed, how¬ 
ever, is not leafage and shoots, but fruit, and this 
can only be got by keeping the roots confined. 
Pots 10 inches in diameter are, perhaps, the 
best for single plants, and if set on a soil 
bed so that the roots may, to a limited 
extent, find their way into it, the plants will 
hold on all the better. It is important to give 
them plenty of room, and in order to secure this 
eaqh plant should be placed quite 4 feet from the 


Ehibon. In the first place they must be well other, and each one should be trained either to a 
rroet When the tubers tnrntout (dew. shapely movable or fixed flat trellis ; indeed, it is doubt- 
•cd aadaome, then the growhtJiMhat to wle(tM-fnl whether any plan of training is better for 


form a charming contrast. This is the only really 
pure white-flowered Weigela, the blossoms of the 
variety called alba or Candida being suffused 
with a faint blush tint, which mars their purity. 
This nivea variety, which is of dwarf, spreading 
growth, is a moderately rapid grower, and flowers 
for some weeks together in summer. The annexed 
engraving was made from a plant which flowered 
in Mr. J. Stevens’s garden at Grasmere, By fleet, 
where there is an exceptionally rich collection of 
Weigelas, all thriving admirably in good ordi¬ 
nary soil, and in an open position. It is a shrub 
that should be planted in every garden, for even 
in the north it makes a beautiful object against 
a wall. 

Veitch's Virginian Creeper (Ampe- 
lopsis Veitchi).—The common Virginian Creeper, 
so remarkable for its brilliancy in autumn, 
though introduced to this country from North 
America pore than -200 years ago, is still 
a very popular wail plant. A. Veitchi is of more 
recent introduction, although it cannot now be 


\T 
















230 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[July 21, 1883. 


considered to be new. It is, however, not so 
extensively grown as it deserves to be, as it is 
one of the comparatively speaking few plants 
which have in all respects realised the expecta¬ 
tions entertained respecting them. As a hardy 
climbing or wall plant, it is second only to the 
most ornamental varieties of the Ivies, and had 
it been an evergreen, instead of decidnous, it 
would certainly have deserved being placed be¬ 
fore them. But, although deciduous, it is never¬ 
theless exceedingly ornamental, even during the 
winter season, and, like the Virginian Creeper, 
it has the rare property of possessing an extra¬ 
ordinary brilliancy of leafage during the 
autumnal months. It is exceedingly well adapted 
for planting in towns, against the fronts of 
dwelling-houses, or in other suitable situations 
which it may be desired to clothe with leafage. 
All that is required is to place the plant as close 
as possible to the wall, or other object it is in¬ 
tended to cover, and to which it will cling like 
Ivy. It is by no means particular as to soil; it 
will even grow freely in an ordinary gravel walk, 
but it will, of coarse, thrive better and its de¬ 
velopment will be more rapid in a more generous 
compost. It may be used for clothing walls, 
pillars, wooden posts, &c., and it can be readily 
induced to form the most graceful festoonB for 
draping balconies, verandahs, See. The young 
shoots when cut, more particularly in autumn, 
when their leaves are highly coloured, are ex¬ 
ceedingly useful in bouquet or wreath-making, 
and for mixing with Uowers in vases. When first, 
introduced, it appears to have been generally 
grafted upon the Virginian Creeper, but this is 
now found to be unnecessary', as cuttings of it, if 
taken off with a heel and inserted in February in 
weM-drained pots or pans of light sandy soil, root 
freely. They should be placed upon a gentle 
hotbed in a close frame or pit, and, when fairly 
rooted, they should be potted off singly ; or the 
young growing shoots may possibly be struck 
under a bell or hand-glass at any time during 
the summer.—P. Ghievk. 

0978 — Planting Euonymusea.— The 

spring, that is the end of March and beginning 
of April, is t he best time to plant these evergreen 
shrubs. All the variegated forms are somewhat 
tender, but all depends upon the latitude and 
general characteristics of the garden. Very few 
of them will live through a really hard winter 
without some kind of protection.—D. 

9063.— Oaks bleeding. —We should advise ' 
in the case of an Oak tree bleeding considerably j 
from a large wound, that the wound be coated 1 
with Portland cement, worked very stiff indeed, 
so that it could bear to absorb some of the 
oozing sap and yet set hard. Once get a coat¬ 
ing of this material set firm, no ihoisture would 
escape, and as the wound healed the cement 1 
would fall off.—D. 

99S2. —Golden Yews —These should be cut bite in j 
the summer or autumn, indeed, not until the summer I 
growth has turned green. The golden tints are found on | 
the spring growth, and therefore no check to growth j 
must be given at that time of the year.—D. 


MULCHING OR TOP-DRESSING. 

Tins subject, treated upon by Mr. Groom in 
Gardening recently, is an important one to 
readers in this district (Hereford), as in and 
around this city we are upon a sharp gravelly 
soil, and In dry weather suffer considerably. 
This season, though, has been an exception, as 
we have for the past month or so had showers 
either during day or night for that period, and 
everything looks fresh and fair. For several 
years I have puzzled my poor brain to know the 
best means to adopt to counteract this drying 
up business. Reing a northerner, it is not to be 
surprised that I am an ardent lover of that most 
beautiful of spring flowers, the Auricula, and 
the only way I could succeed with them was 
immediately after blooming to remove them 
from their quarters t rt some shaded spot, and 
then let them remain until autumn, and then 
shift them back for blooming in spring. My 
flower garden being limited in extent, and my 
stock of Aariculas having far outrun my shady 
spot accommodation, I had to devise some means 
to prevent mv plants getting scorched up, and 
I have found mulching to suit, capitally. If 
spared, T shall bloom next season over one 
thousand plants, and they are at the present 
time looking atrang and heathy and making 
foliage rapidly: and RrcojAIfor'their healthy 
appearance frOTsufty-mulcniUK whole of my 


beds about a couple of inches deep with rough 
charcoal or wood ashes, which I obtain free of 
cost from a wheelwright’s yard, where they use 
the wood when tyreing wheels. 

I also use it amongst my Strawberries, and find 
it a grand preventive to the ravages of slugs, as 
they don’t seem to like to travel over it, although 
my neighbour's garden is infested with them, 
and the fruit does not get bespattered with soil 
in rainy weather. When a good coating of this 
is placed on the surface of the ground and 
watered occasionally, it retains the moisture, and 
the surface does not become hard or baked, and 
therefore require stirring or forking over. 

Mr. Groom advises the use of prunings of trees, 
grass cut from lawns, or even weeds, but alive 
as I am now to the usefulness of mulching or 
top-dressing, though generally in accord with his 
ideas, I should take exception to the two first 
materials, or in fact to all of them, on the score 
of untidyness, in flower gardens, and especially 
to the weeds. If I did not wish to form a nursery 
for slugs, Sec., I should not think of them on any 
account. I think, where obtainable—and in 
most towns it is easily so—the mulching of 
wheelwrights’ wood ashes will be found of great 
value, not only for its properties as a fertiliser, 
but for preventing excessive evaporation and the 
growth of weeds. 1 use the material extensively 
to every crop I grow, and as it works iDto the 
soil I renew it, applying a fresh supply when re¬ 
quired.—J. Glasgow. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

9971.— Staining floors. The following is 
a good process : In preparing the floor, it must 
not be washed with either soda or soft soap. A 
little yellow soap may be used, if needful. The 
wood must be quite dry before staining. Take 
Is. worth of raw umber, 6d. worth of burnt 
sienna, Is. 3d. worth of yellow ochre (these 
quantities must be varied according to the shade 
required) to be ground separately in water by a 
painter, then mixed together. Add sour beer 
till the staining is the colour you wish. Put it 
on the boards very evenly with soft cloths, 
always rubbing the way of the grain. When dry, 
rub the floor with dry beeswax, then polish with 
a furniture brush ; this must be often done before 
a good polish is obtained, and is much better 
than varnish. If the stainiDg is to remain, rub 
the floor previous to waxing with oil, and let it 
dry some days before waxing. Take for the 
oiling one quart of boiled oil and one pint of 
turpentine mixed well together.- Knutsford. 

9980.— Earth closet manure. —If earth 
closets are properly supplied with dry, absorbing 
soil, the manure will be found in a comparatively 
dry and unobjectional state, and if not imme¬ 
diately required it may lie in a heap anywhere 
in the garden without being obnoxious. If it 
should appear to be so, a little dry earth cast 
over the manure will soon render it innocuous. 
The material may be strewn over spare soil and 
be dug in as needed, or between rows of Potatoes, 
Cabbages, and other crops, or be kept in a heap, 
us advised, until needed for digging in in the 
autumn.—D. 

9966.— Improving clay soil.— It will be 
very difficult to change the nature of clay soil 
in a year or two; indeed, it is very doubtful if 
the nature ever is changed by any treatment 
short of mixing with it sandy soil several inches 
in depth. The best thing to do will be to work 
into the soil now all possible straw manure from 
a stable, also any roadside parings and Cocoa- 
fibre refuse. Still, these things cost money. At 
any time if the weather be wet, do not touch 
the soil or get on to it, but work it only in dry 
weather, and then mostly in March and onwards. 
—D. 


A. />.—The pruning may bo done now.- Ayrshire.— 

We hare every reason to believe that the Arm mentioned 
supply good value for money. We have heard very satis- 
factory accounts of their small greenhouses. Full in¬ 
structions as to fixing (which is easy) will he given byjtho 

firm.- J. C.— Mr. Ware, Hale Farm Nurseries, 

Tottenham, London, N.- K. IF.—We do not unite 

understand your query. Kindly repeat and make it 
clearer. 

Tangerine.— We believe Mr. Rivers, Sawbridgworth, 

Herts, lias published a little pamphlet on the subject.- 

II. A. J .—If you send us blooms we may be able to 

answer your question.- A. R. C.—Any good chemist 

should supply you. Try a good seed shop also.- M. J\ 

—Fumigate them with Tobacco, - Messenger.— Write 

to the firm and ask them. 


Names of plants— G. G .— Lllium elegans variety. 

- R. D.'— Scolopendrium vulgaro cristatum (Crested 

Hart's Tongue).- S. S. P.— Double-flowered Drop wort 

(Spirrea Filipendula). — IF. Witt.—Specimens not sufficient 

to name.- Ivy House.— Chrysanthemum segetum (Com 

Marigold).- Henry T. Jennings. —Fuchsiaprocumneus. 

— J. Rogerson .—Polemonium ctcruleum (J acob's Ladder). 

- G. R. P .—Cannot name.- W. IF. Rcely .—MitcheUa 

repens (Partridge Berry).- J. H . A.— 2, Gladiolus illyri- 

cus ; 5, Geranium Endreasi; others not in a condition to 

name.- F. Langton.—Wedo not name varieties of peas. 

- New Zealander.—No enclosure 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents.—-A U communica¬ 
tions for insertion should 1/e clearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
and address of the sender is required , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. A usurers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of 
gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day of publication , it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

10017.—Forming a rockery and fernery.—As I 
am intending to form a rockery and fernery In a recess at 
the gable end of my house, I should be greatly obliged 
for any suggestions which some of the readers of 
Gardening are doubtless able to make. My house is in the 
country, and is situate on the slope of a hill facing south. 
At the easterly gable I purpose erecting a greenhouse, 
some 20 feet long and 10 feet wide, and as the land behind 
this spot is some 10 feet higher than the land in front, 
and level with my lawn (which has been artificially 
raised), I shall enter it from the back, but may use the 
space underneath (having light only from the south) as a 
fernery. But at the easterly end of the site of the pro¬ 
posed greenhouse, and linenble with the back thereof, is 
a recess some 18 feet long, 6 feet to 12 feet wide, and 
varying from 3 feet to 12 feet deep, down which in dry 
weather tuiib a thin stream of clear water, the said recess 
having doubtless been formed by this stream, which is of 
course at times much larger. The recess or rnndle being - 
overgrown by forest trees, and protected on all sides but 
the Bouth, may doubtless by judicious management be : 
made very pretty, and I should be extremely obliged if 
some reader would make suggestions as to the best and 
cheapest mode to doit, also what sorts of Ferns and other - 
plants would be best to furnish it with. — AMATEUR 
Gardener 

10018.—Weeds on lavtns.—I enclose a pieec of ; 
purple weed (Prunella vulgaris), which is growing rapidly 
over my lawn, and I shall bo much obliged if someone 
will tell me the best way of destroying it without in¬ 
juring the grass. I have been recommended to try Wat 
son’s lawn sand, but I am doubtful whether the weed ia 
not too plentiful, as it has increased so rapidly, and may 
require stronger measures. If it is rooted up with a 
garden spud in the autumn, would It be advisable to put 
mould over the bare patches it will leave, as we cannot 
get good turf here to replace it? Should it be sown with 
grass seed, and if so, what kiud and at what time of year ? 
-H. M. 

10010.—'Tuberoses.—I shall be glad of some infor¬ 
mation regarding the growing and forcing of Tuberoses. 

I bought some bulbs last whiter, put them in pots, and 
kept them dry till April, when I placed them in a pit with 
good bottom heat till they throw' up leaves about 
6 inches long, then I moved them into the greenhouse, 
which is in rather a hot position, south-west. Since then 
they have neither grown nor looked healthy. How ought 
| I now to treat them, and when ought they to flower? Ia 
it true that they only flower once, and that the bulbs are 
afterwards of no further use for another year?— 

HEATHER. 

10020.—'Winter and spring flowering plants 

—Will some reader, skilled in such matters, kindly in 
form me what winter and spring flow’eriug plants, and 
also Ferns,will be suitable for a lean-to greenhouse about 
10 feet by 6 feet facing north, and wanned by a gai 
heated apparatus. At the same time I should also be-a 
glad to know what really good climbers (Roses preferred 
if the aspect is not unsuitable) will do for trellis worl 
against the walls?—S. M. S., Serenoaks, Kent. 

10021.—Cucumbers failing 1 .—Will some reader o ■ 
Gardening kindly tell me the reason why my Cucumbei 
plant has died eff at the root? It has rotted quite away 
but has taken root at one or two of the joints, and is stil 
living. What is the cause and the remedy, and is i 
likely to do any good 1 It ia in a frame facing south, am 
is planted in rotten manure and soil with hot manur* 
underneath.—A. B. 

10022. —Currant leaves falling off— All my Red 
Currant t-roes looked healthy till a week ago, but now nr 
losing all their leaves, which first get discoloured, the’ 
wither up and fall off ; the bark also is all peeling oil 
The disease is spreading to the Black Currants ; they or 
in sand. The same thing happened last year, and advic. 
will be thankfully received.—C urrant Tree. 

10023.—Grapes going bad.—We have, among otlic 
Vines, four Muscats, the fruit of which has been goin 
bad. A brown spot comes on the side of the berries r< 
sembling a bruise, and in a few’ days the berries gc 
brown all over and are useless, and have to be cut of 
Could any reader inform me of the cause, and suggest 
preventive in future ?—C. C. C. 

10024.—Roses losing their fragrance.—Why 
it that the most beautiful Hybrid Perpetual Roses, wht, 
plucked and kept in water for a couple of days, entire 
lose their fragrance, and emit a disagreeable odour i* 
though the Roses look fresh and lovely, and the water 
changed every day? Can it he caused by giving tl 
Hose trees liquid sheep manure ?—A Constant Reads 

10025.—Manure for Ivy.—What con be done 1 
make Ivy (small and variegated sorts) grow quickly? j 
much manure beneficial, and when should it be applied 
Should manure be applied to the roots themselves ort 




Jt-LT 21, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


231 


the soil over the roots ? Is farmyard or cesspool manure 
4 te best t Does Ivy require watering in dry weather ?— 
Itt. 

10026.— Ants in lawns. —Can anyone tell me how 
to get rid of ants in a lawn without destroying the grass ? 
They are quite killing mine in patches, and I am afraid 
to pat anything on it for fear of doing it more harm. The 
gras is quite infested with them, and it was the same 
Lat summer.—C. E. H. • 

10027. — Herbaceous Calceolarias.—I am very 
anii'Xtf to retard the flowering of some of these until 
autumn, but once summer weather sets in I find great 
dttfcalty in keeping them from the attacks of green fly, 
Ac. If seeds were sown in February or March, when 
B^rlit the plants be expected to flower ?—W. H. B. 

WKi-Heating- small greenhouses —Having 
come into possession of a small greenhouse 12 feet by 
10 feet and 6 feet high, I shall be obliged if some ex¬ 
perienced reader will advise me as to an inexpensive and 
ibe least troublesome method of heating it for winter.— 
EG. 

10029.—Mildew on grapes.—I shall be glad to 
kaow the best remedy for the above, it having appeared 
oamy Black Hamburgh Vines? I believe it is owing to 
the door of vinery being left open Inadvertently during 
(be recent wet weather. House not heated.—P. W. 

10080 .—Grapes not stoning 1 .— Can anyone inform 
me the cause of Grapes not stoning properly ? There are 
pUnty of berries on the bunch, but not more than half 
of them have stoned. The varieties are Black Prince and 
Bccklaud’s Sweetwater.— J. M. C. 

10031.—Bose cuttings. — Will “Mark,” who in 
Gardening for June 23 describes a method of striking 
Rose cuttings, say at what time of the year the cuttings 
an* made, and if it is young or old wood that is used.— 
Axatsor ROsARIAN. 

10032.—Fertilising flowers.—In reply to a query 
by “G. T. S.,” it is stated by “A. T. H. W.” that the 
blooms will require to be fertilised to set the fruit. How 
is the operation performed? My plants are just beginning 
to flower. — G. M . 

10033.—Sedum aizoideum.—I got a dozen plants of 
this in the 1 beginning of May, and treated them the 
same as ordinary greenhouse plants; they aro making 
little or no progress. What treatment do they require ? 
W. IL B. 

10034 .—Preserving plant3 in winter. — What 
must I do with Fuchsias and Geraniums in order to keep 
them over the winter? Will an attic at.the top ofthe house 
do for them if frost is kept out ? I have a valuable lot, 
and would like to save them. —M. A. T. 

10035 .—Decomposing manure—I keep five horses 
in my town stables, and consequently have plenty of 
litter, which coats something every week to get removed. 
Hour can I convert it into a powdered state for use in a 
Wharton garden ?—A. B. C. 

19036.—Blacic spots on Roses.—What 1 b the cause 
.1 large black spots appearing on the leaves of Rose trees, 
also a kind of mottled yellowish stain ? In many cases 
nearly all the leaves fall off the trees.—A CONST AMT 
r.KAiER. 

ii<W7.—Dinner table decorations.—I am anxious 
to know the most modern way of decorating a dinner- 
tabi**—if one kind of flower is used or one colour only ?— 
4L J. K_ W. 

100SS.—Narcissi and Iris.—May I remove Iris 
aadica as soon as the foliage is ripe, und keep the bulbs 
at of the ground till autumn ; also will similar treat- 
adit do for the double white Narcissus?—H. J. B. 

10099._Rhododendrons. —Is itnccossary to remove 

1* flowers from very young Rhododendrons? WiU it 
a'prjve the plants, aud make them flower better in 
fetor* ?—Cam uri a. 

u»40 —Manure for Pansies.— When preparing a 
tor choice Pansies, should it be manured; ami if so, 
rQ cow manure or stable manure answer best ? It is 
months old.——C onstant Reader. 

10ML — Pansies- — Will someone kindly give the 
uaies of about two dozen of the handsomest Tansies 
• ;<st varied in colour and beautilul in appearance?—E. 

U33C. 

ID 042 ,—Roses near towns.—Will any reader kindly 
zxt the names of about a dozen of the best Hybrid Per- 
efoal Roses that are likely to succeed In the open air 
three miles from'Manchester?—Pso Bono Publico. 
'•Xil— Eccremocarpua scaber.— Will someone 
ifora roe as to the treatment of Eecremocarpus scaber, 
T-rcially in the winter ? —A. B. C. 
lc*yt 4 .— Flower seeds for Ceylon.— Will any 
ub-r kindly tell me what flower seeds would be likely 
.-row in a garden on the hills of Ceylon ?—C. K. 

; j .45 —Tomatoes.—At what temperature should 
'aatoes be kept ii» order for them to fruit this year?— 
l5«;XRI3E. 

—Late Strawberries.—Will someone kindly 
* me the name of the best late Strawberry for market ? 
unt it to succeed the main crop.—E ast Suffolk. 

_Grevilleas.— Is the treatment for ordinary 
:*&house plant* the most suitable for these? What 
i» wintering them ?—W. H. B. 

Woodlice in Vinery.—What la the best 
destroying wood lice? My Vinery is over-run 
<\ them.— H. B. 

■'■•ID.— Celery grub —I would be glad to know* how¬ 
to get rid or a grab that infests my Celery. It lives 
<*<en the two surfaces of the leaf.—J. H. T. 


lowers for sketching .—We shall be 
fd if oner readers mill send vs from time to time 
sens of any unusually good or rare flowers for 
Spring. In all cases the /loners should be sent 
met fairly long stalls, fmJt~nhcre possiblcVrcith 
foattt also. Views of \picmregatoe y iri 'ttiAnioild 
also le ou tcome. 


POULTRY. 


Poultry run. — Nemo. — The run or field 
should, if possible, slope towards the south, and 
you had better build the house at the bottom— 
that is, provided the drainage of the land is 
naturally good. This would lessen the exposure. 
Rough, stony ground is just as good for poultry 
as a good meadow, if it be not marshy or clamp; 
and if you can choose a field in which there are 
a few trees of any kind so much the better, as 
they prove very beneficial to the birds both in 
winter and summer. A great advantage also, 
would be a stream of running water through 
the field. As regards vermin, rats would no 
doubt soon make their appearance, but are easily 
got rid of with the aid of a professional rat¬ 
catcher, or poison. 1 he latter should be spread 
on bread, and placed as far as possible in their 
holes. Fifty hens is a good number per acre, 
and the best plan is to change fields once a year. 
This can be done by building the house in one 
comer. One cock bird to twelve hens would ho 
required in order to ensure a good proportion of 
fertile eggs. The greatest' enemy to success¬ 
ful poultry farming is disease, which, when 
once it makes its appearance, is very difficult 
indeed to stamp out where large numbers are 
kept. Therefore it behoves the farmer to he 
ever watchful, and immediately any signs of 
disease appear to at once make any sacrifice by 
killing; and thoroughly disinfect the houses 
and the ground round about them. Carbolic 
acid is the best possible preventive, and by 
buying a gallon or so at a time, and a quality 
■suitable for the purpose, it docs not cost a great 
deal. As you seem to fancy a cross-bred fowl, 
we recommend either the Brahma-Dorking, or 
Malay crossed with either Hondan or Minorca. 
Cochins can scarcely be recommended for a 
poultry farm, as they are not what is generally 
called a table fowl, but wo have seen some capital 
birds bred from a cross between a Cochin cock and 
Minorca hens. If you can contract with a 
neighbouring hotel to buy the daily waste from 
the kitchen you will find it a capital plan. This, 
mixed up with meal, forms excellent feeding. 
A word as regards soft food; be sure it is always 
mixed into a dry, stiff paste, not sloppy, as this 
is wasteful, and, besides, is not relished by the 
fowls. Never let food remain about in the run, 
giving as much as they will eat eagerly, and no 
more.— Andalusian. 

Chickens ill. — II. J. S. —Your chickens are 
suffering from roup of a severe nature. Confine 
at once in a warm, dry pen, free from draught. 
Write to Baily As Sons, 119, Mount Street, W., 
for a box of their pills for roup, enclosing 
thirteen stamps. Half a one night and morning 
will prove sufficient. Also bathe the face and 
head twice a day in warm water, and afterwards 
with a weak solution of carbolic acid, taking 
care of the eyes. Also wash the mouth out 
with it. Feed, meanwhile, on the most nutritious 
food, and if the patient appears very weak, a 
little sherry should he added to the drinking 
water. In short, the strength of the bird must 
be kept up, in order to throw off the disease. 
Ilonp is highly contagious, so any member of a 
flock showing signs of it mast be immediately 
separated from the others. On recovery, do not 
be in a hurry to return to the run, and choose a 
dry day for so doing. A little iron tonic should 
then he given.— Andalusian. 

Sawdust.— A Subscriber. —This material is 
very good far spreading over the floor of the 
roosting house, and causes the droppings to be 
easily removed. At the same time you need have 
no fear of its injuring the birds in any way. We 
generally, however, recommend dry earth or 
sifted ashes as being better from a sanitary 
point of view, although not looking so well. We 
visited some poultry houses a short time since 
of which the floors are constructed of asphalt, 
very smooth, and covered an inch deep with saw¬ 
dust. They certainly looked very clean and nice, 
and were swept oat. once a week with a hard 
broom. It is a good plan to sprinkle the floor 
and walls of the house once a week with a 
solution of carbolic acid and water, one part of 
the former to tour of the latter. This keeps 
down the insect pest effectually, and is very 
wholesome, especially at this time of year. The 
cost is trifling, as a very little goes a long way. 
—Andalusian. 

Hens eating eggs— I shall bo glad to 
know how to cure hens of eating eggs. I havo 


tried shells filled with mustard, which they 
greedily devour.— Celeb et Audax. [Except 
in the case of a hen valuable for her eggs for 
hatching purposes, it is scarcely worth while to 
adopt the only method we know of in order to 
preserve the eggs from destruction when once 
the hen has acquired the egg-eating propensity. 
This consists in making a specially-constructed 
nest with a hole in the centre of the bottom 
large enough to allow the egg to pass through 
on to a second padded bottom. Tho false 
bottom should be sloping on all sides towards 
the hole, so that directly the egg is layed it rolls 
through and is at once beyond the reach of its 
would-be destroyer.— Andalusian.] 

Fowls unhealthy.— Lately my hens have 
taken croup and distemper, and one died. I livein 
the country, and have a run 20yards long by 8 yards 
wide, in which I keep from twenty-six to thirty 
hens. I feed them regularly with a little grain and 
soft bread in the morning, and good soft feed of 
mashed potato peelings, cabbage, and odd 
scraps at eleven or twelve o’clock, and grain at 
four o’clock. Besides this they have plenty of 
lime and oyster shells (ground) to pick. The 
hens have the liberty of a large field adjoining, 
into which they occasionally go. They have been 
very healthy until lately, bnt there is occasionally 
one or two showing symptoms of croup or 
distemper. I give them a dose of sulphnr and 
butter mixed, which always cures them. Can you 
suggest any reason for the hens going wrong 1 
Tho run and hen-house arc kept clean. I get a 
fair number of eggs from them.— Lex. [We 
have no fault to find either with your feeding 
or general management, and cannot conceive 
how it is your birds go wrong in any way. 
Have you some old members which ought to 
have been consigned to the cook long ago, and 
which would be continually ailing 7 Yon would 
do well to substitute barley-meal for the barley 
in the morning, well mixed up with the soaked 
bread. You will find Bailey's roup pills better 
than sulphur and butter. Have your birds access 
to any stagnant water?— Andalusian.] 

Pigeons dying.—I would not advise breed¬ 
ing with a nest pair, and do not give the pigeons 
dry Indian corn, but steep in hot water the 
night before the quantity that will be required 
for the day following. Keep the pigeons on 
wheat and peas as much as possible, and if you 
keep twenty pigeons, give them a pound or two 
of hempseed every week. Keep the pigeon cote 
very clean and well ventilated, and if you can 
make a place on the ground by heaping up 
a quantity of earth or sandy gravel, say 
about the size of a milk bowl, do so, and 
get a lump of rock salt, about the size of 
a man’s head, and put it on the top of tho 
heap. If you make the gravel heap about ten 
yards from the pigeon cote, the pigeons will soon 
find it, and often be on it. I have kept pigeons 
for thirty years, and I never gave them oats, and 
very seldom barley, and I haver been troubled 
with pigeons going light or dying.—H. H. 

Ducks for profit_Do ducks pay; what Is tho 

best kind of ducks to keep ; what is the best time of 
year to liegin to keep them ; what is the best food for 
young ducklings ?—New Beginnek. 


BEES. 

SEASONABLE NOTES. 

Late swabmino.— Swanns that rise late in 
the season must be well fed for the first ten days 
or so, that comb may be rapidly built and all 
be kept in a state of progress, and breeding en¬ 
couraged that the population may become strong 
before the close of the season ; but after the first 
week in .Inly swarming should bo prevented by 
removing frames of brood and cutting out queen 
cells. Should a late swarm leave a bar-frame hive 
it can be returned in the following manner: First 
remove the bars of comb and cutout all qncen cells, 
then take the skep containing the swarm, and 
by a sharp and sudden movement drop the bees 
into the top of the hive, or on to the alighting- 
board, propping up tho hive an inch or so in front. 
The queen which led off the swarm, now finding 
no embryo queens in the hive, will not again leave 
it. The queen cells aro easily distinguished, being 
quite different in construction from worker and 
drone cells; they are somewhat like an acorn in 
shape, and usually hang with the entrance down¬ 
wards, being about an inch in length. This 
operation may be accomplished in a few minutes 
by the most inexperienced. When a hive swarms, 





232 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[July 21, 1883. 


a period of nearly three weeks generally elapses 
before any eggs can be laid the young queen 
left in the hive; it is therefore an immense ad¬ 
vantage to a colony that throws off a late swarm 
if a mature queen be immediately introduced to 
it. The introduced queen begins at once to lay, no 
time is lost in waiting for the embryo queen to 
come to maturity, and there is no break in the 
increase of the population, the colony thus 
becoming strong before the end of the season. 

Quebxlebs hives— Stock hives that have 
given off swarms should be carefully observed 
for the first ten or twelve days after the swarm 
has left for signs of queenlessness, as young 
queens are sometimes lost during their llight, or 
on their return fail to recognise their own hive, 
and attempting to enter the wrong one are de¬ 
stroyed by the bees. The signs of the loss of a 
queen are a great agitation in the hive, and the 
bees running about over the outside of the hive. 
This commotion takes place for two or three 
mornings, when they gradually settle down, but 
do not seem to work with the will and vigour 
they formerly did. In a queenless hive drones 
are not destroyed as they are in perfect colonies, 
but there being no increase of population to 
take the place of the bees dying off from natural 
causes, the stock dwindles and dies out. A colony 
in this condition may be saved, however, if on 
the appearance of the signs above stated a queen 
cell containing a young queen (which may be 
cut out of another hive) be introduced into the 
queenless colony, placing it between the combs, 
to which the beeB soon fix it; the embryo queen 
receiving proper attention from the bees comes 
forth in due course, and is accepted as the future 
monarch of the hive. A frame of comb con¬ 
taining eggs and brood introduced into a queen¬ 
less hive will also be the means of saving it, as 
the bees will immediately begin to fashion royal 
cells round some of the worker eggs or grubs, 
and rear queens from them; but the best and 
most expeditious w ay of setting up a queenless 
colony is by giving it a fertile queen. 

Queen introduction. —In order to success¬ 
fully introduce a queen to a colony, it is 
necessary to use a queen cage in which to confine 
the queen when first placed in the hive, other¬ 
wise the bees are liable to destroy her ; but if 
she is confined to the cage and placed between 
two of the combs for a time, and then set, at 
liberty, she is generally welcomed to the hive. 
The cage containing the queen is pressed into 
a comb as far as the base of the cells, great care 
being exercised not to injure the queen. The 
comb selected is one containing honey, that she 
may be supplied with food; the bees are now 
sprinkled with syrup and the hive closed till the 
next day, when the bees are again sprinkled 
with syrup and the queen released from the 
cage, and watched, to see if the bees take kindly 
to her. Should they seize her by the wings and 
treat her somewhat roughly, she is returned to 
the cage and the experiment tried again the 
next day. If it is wished to change an old queen 
for a younger one, the old queen h searched for, 
by removing the combs one by one, and when 
found, placed in the cage and introduced 
between two of the combs for about six hours, 
then removed and the young queen placed in 
the cage, and in two days released, when she iR, 
as a rule, favourably received by the bees. 
There are several kinds of queen cages, the best 
is probably that made of wire net with a flange 
on the top to prevent it entering the hive too far. 
It has an entrance on the top in which to insert 
the queen, and by pressing a wire down, a door 
is opened at the bottom which allows the queen 
to escape into the hive. S. S. G. 

Boxrcortli. 


BIRDS. 


Breeding parrots— In reply to “ Puck," 
I beg to say that it is quite possible to breed 
many kinds of parrots in England, and at the 
present moment I have two fine young cocka- 
tiels a month old in one of my aviaries, and a 
pair of blue-winged parakeets sitting on eggs 
in another. The kinds more usually bred in this 
country are budgerigars, cockatiels, rose lias, red- 
rumps, turquoisines, Madagascar and blue¬ 
winged love birds; but several kinds of cocka¬ 
toos, the grey parrot, and many others have been 
occasionally successfully reared. — W. T. 
Greene, F.Z.S. 


Parrakeets moulting. —I have a small 
green and yellow^ loi^y ilic|Mp^rifceet that 


moulted six months ago, and has never since 
regained its feathers; it has neither tail nor wing 
feathers, and no sign of them appearing. We 
have given it seed, also green food and oats. We 
have tried bread and milk, but it will Dot touch 
it, and declines a bath. What ought we to do ?— 
Yea don. 

Management of ring doves.—I should 
be much obliged for advice on the management 
of ring doves. I have three hens and one cock; 
they quarrelled, and so had to be separated. The 
hens have laid eggs, and after sitting on them 
a few days have destroyed one, and would not 
then sit any longer. One hen quarrels, so that I 
have had to put her by herself. They are in 
large cages in a very large, airy conservatory, 
and are fed on seed and greenstuff when to be 
got, turnip-tops being what they like.—A Lover 
of Birds. 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 


Hop beer. —In answer to “Abstainer,” who 
requires a recipe for non-intoxicating hop beer, 
perhaps this recipe might suit him : Take one 
pound of best hops, one pound of tapioca, and 
ten gallons of water. Thoroughly swell the 
tapioca in cold water, then put it in a gauze 
cloth, and boil it and the hops in the water for 
half an hour. Let all cool together. Next day 
strain and put in bottles or casks, bunging it 
close to exclude the air. Nothing further is re¬ 
quired.—T. J. W. 

Nettle beer.—Will “ A. IT. C. W., Copthorne,” 
kindly give something more definite than a “ good 
quantity ” of Nettles? Also say if bottles should be 
corked at once, and how long the Nettle beer will keep 
good? I put half a peck of Nettles to one gallon of 
water. The liquid soon became inky black.—'U rtica. 


ASTERS! ASTERS!!—J. Bettendge has a 

ax few hundreds left, strong plants, of his unrivalled 
quilled Asters for late blooming; offers them bb follows : Per 
100, 3e. 8d ; 50 for 2e., free by post, cash with order. Testi¬ 
monials to hand every day.—J. BETTERIDGE, The Aster 
Nursery, Chipping Norton. Oxon. 

IPHE HANDSOMEST stove balsam, 

«L producing a profusion of brilliant rosy scarlet flowers. 
IMPATIENS SULTANI. free by post on receipt of postal 
order for 2s. 6<L—GARAWAY & CO., Durdham Down 
Nurseries. Clifton, Bristol 


N ew pink geranium, trincess 

HELEN.—This iH the beat winter-blooming piDk Gera¬ 
nium yet produced • also the best pink bidder. As free 
bloomer as the old VESUVIUS, never reeding outdoorr—a 
great boon for a pink. Good plants. Is 6d. each, post free. 

NEW DOUBLE GOLDEN MARGUERITE.-Chrysan¬ 
themum lutea plena, bright golden yellow, as double as a 
Ranunculus, blooming profusely all the year round; fine for 
cut bloom. Good plants, Pd. each, post free. 

BICOLOR PLENA, similar to the above ; colour yellow, 
margined with white ; fine for cut bloom. 6d. each, post free. 

TALL LOBELIAS (cardiDalis section).—6 fine varieties of 
this useful rummer and autumn-blooming perennial, 3s., post 
free, from B. W. KNIGHT, Florist, Battle, Sussex. 


PENNY PLANTS FOR THE MILLION.- 

J- The following are now offered in good plants : 12 Fuch¬ 
sias, specially for pots or the border, Is. 12 yellow Calceola¬ 
rias, la. 12 bedding Cupheas, Is. 12 various single Gera¬ 
niums, Is. 12 various double Geraniums, Is. 12 Heliotro- 
piums, Is. 12 white Paris Marguerites, Is. 12 dwarf blue 
Ageratum, Is. 12 large Victoria Daisies, Is. 12 Polyanthus, 
Is. 12 rcarlct Geraniums, Is. 12 pink Geraniums, Is. 12 
Coleus Verschaffelti. best for bedding, Is. 12 Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, large-flowered, Japan, and Pompone, Is. 12 Myceotia, 
Cliveden Forget-me-not, Is. 12 Sweet William, Auricula¬ 
eyed, Is. 12 dwarf white Ageratum, Is. 12 Coleus, Are for 
pots, 1 b. 12 dwarf blue lobelia, Is. 12 Ireeine Lmdeni, Is. 
12 variegated Geraniums, Is, 12 Bcarlet bedding Tropmolum, 
Is. 12 variegated Alyssnta, white foliage for edging, Is. 12 
Petunias, fiDe, Is. 12 Giant Musk, the large variety, 1ft. 12 
Pansies and Violas, fine for bedding, 1 b. 12 dark brown 
Calceolarias, In. 12 Mentha pihr&ltarica, fine for margins or 
carpet bedding, Is. 12 Antirrhinums, line variety, Is. 12 
white Geraniums, Is. 

Any of the above plants sent post free at Is. per dozen. 
Orders of 10s. and npwards, if desired, will be sent in boxes 
per rail, carriage paid, to London. All are good plants, from 
B. W. KNIGHT, Florist, Battle. Sussex. 


pALCKOLARI AS, 

VJ PRIMULAS, from tl 


CINERARIA?, AND 

PRIMULAS, from the very best flowers aDd colours 
extant, all raised from home grown seed, very superb strains ; 
cannot fail to give splendid flowers. Calceolaria, Is. 6(L per 
dozen ; Cineraria, Is. fit per dozen ; Primula, 2s. per dozen, 
in good plants, post free. From 

B. W. KNIGHT, Florist, Batt’e, Sussex. 


MEW and SELECT BOUVARDLAS.-Theae 

Ll useful winter-blooming plants, so valuable for cut bloom, 
are now offered in good plants: 12 fine varieties, including 
the Dew double white ALFRED NETJNER, for 4a.. post free. 
GYNURA AURANTIACA. a new bedding plant, of free 
growth and compact habit,with beautiful deep violet coloured 
foliage ; will eoou be used as extensively as the Coleus 
Verschaffelti, with which it contrasts well. All bedders 
should procure it to work up stock for future use. It is also 
a grand decorative plant for the conservatory. Good plants. 
Is. each, post free, from B. W. KNIG11T, Florist, Battle, 
Sussex. 

New Catalogues Now Ready. 
FERNS. 

Illustrated and descriptive, price three stamps. Finest col¬ 
lection of British Ferns in the trade. 

IPL^HSTTS. 

Illus'rated and descriptive, free on application. Contains 
the cream of this beautiful class at lowest possible prices. 
F. W. 4 H. 8TANBFCELD, Bale, near Manchester. 


New Pure White Geranium, 

2TIPHET0S, 

Bent out two months ago by Messrs. Keynes. A variety of 
rare merit, being absolutely pure white, not even in the 
fullest euDshine having the slightest tint of pink or any other 
colour. We can testify to theaccuiacy of Messrs. Keynes' 
description, from which we extract—" Trusses art of immense 
size, producing in nearly every case upwards of a hundred 
flower pips each. Strong , robust, diearf habit, free flavoring, 
invaluable." A hybrid nosegay, a rare plant maker, and will 
be capital for exhibition. Nicely rooted plants, carefully 
packed iD special box, post free Is. 9d. each. Customers aie 
advised to order at once. Also attention is invited to our 
named ZoDal Geraniums; we shall be happy to supply twelve 
varieties, all unusually good, for 4s. These would be good 
for showing. All post free. 

RYDER & SON, Sale, Manchester. 


6 TEA ROSES IN POTS for greenhouse^ in six 

named sorts, including Niphetos, Marechal Niel. and 
Gloiie de Dijon, for 7s.; 12 in 12 sorts for 13s. 6d.; 3 for 4s. 
All are good healthy plants : no charge for packing ; send for 
list to select from.—RYDER It SON, Bale. Manchester. 


DOUBLE WALLFLOWERS, per doz., Is.; 

J J single ditto, per 25, Is. 3d.: per HO. *s. 6d. double Sweet 
■Williams. 1 b. per doz. ; single ditto. Is 3d. for 25 Canterbury 
Beils, a nice selection, mix'd, 9d. per doz.; Is. 3d. per 55; 
3». id per 100. Snapdragons, a splendid strain, per 25, la 6<L; 
per 100, 5e. All above are post free, carefully packed.— 
RYDER A SON, Bale, Manchester_ 


Primulas. French Cinerarias. 
rpHE noted itrains we have the honour cf dis- 
J- tributing : Mr. W. Bull's Premier, per doz., Is. Gd. Cele¬ 
brated French Cinerarias, per doz.. Is. Gd.; per 25. 2s. 9d. ; 
per 100, 10s., all post free. Thcx** who desire specially good 
strains should procure these plants.—RYDER & bUh, bale. 
Manchester. 


SNAPDRAGONS.—Nice sturdy plants from a. 
Q splendid strain, per doz., Is.: per 25, la 6d.; per 100. 5s.. 
free, will flower this autumn. This tine old-fashioned flower 
should be in every garden, line for flower border, and most 
useful for cutting —RYDER k SON. Bale. Manchester. 


Pinks, Picottee, carnations. 

MICE little plants, seedlings from finest strains. 
LN per doz, Is. 3d.; per 100, 8s.; 4s. 6d. for 60. Planted 
now will get well established by winter to bloom profusely 
next season. The most remarkable sight we Baw last season 
was a row of seedling Carnations. It is not claimed that 
these will equal named sorts, hut they will produce a fair pro- 
poition of correct florist's flowers, and all will be profuse 
bloomers in brilliant colours. All post free.—RYDER t 
SON, Bale, Manchest er. __ 

OTRIKE CUTTINGS out-of-doors in .Inly and 

O August frr stroDg plants to winter in cold homes or 
frames. Dibble 3 in. apart in road grit. Geraniums, splendid 
cuttings, all colours. Chas. Smith, Lady Sheffield. Samuel 
Plimsoll, Aurora, Mrs. Leavers, Wonderful, Jewel, Haidee, 
White Vesuvius, Corsair, one of each.poBt free. Is.—GEORGE 
BOYKS k OO., Nurser ymen, Aylestone P ark, Leic ester. 

HUTTINGS, "STRONG CUTTINGS.— Pelar- 

goniums Glniro de Lille, Atlante, Gladstone, Duchess of 
Bedford, Bertie Boye*, Kingston Beauty. Digby Grand. Duke 
of Albany, Mermion, Merrimsc, one of each, post fret*, 1s.- 
GEOBGE BOYEb & CO., Nurueiymen. Aylestone Park, 
Leicester. _ 


PUCHSIAS (Double and Single varieties), 

L named, Is. dozen.—Libonia floribunda (w'infcer-flowering), 
fir for Is. 3d. Musk, nice plants, 6d. per dozen. Phloxes 
(herbaceous), named. 2s. dozen. Pentstemons, cuttings 
named, Is. dozen, free. — W. & F. H HERLWRIGHT 
Florists, Oldswlnfcrd, Stourbridge_ 


PANSIES! PANSIES!! PANSIES !! !-Bed- 

X ding varieties to clear ; Blue King, Tory, Freedom, Max, 
Kolb, etc.. 9d. dozen, 3s. 100; good strong stuff. W. Glad¬ 
stone and Blue Stone, two show varieties. Is. 6d. dozen, 10s. 
100, post free.—W. k F. WHEELWRIGHT, Florists, Old- 
bw inford, Stourbridge.___ _ 


PANSIES ! PANSIES !! PANSIES I! —400 

J- varieties of the finest named show and fancy Pansies. 12 
strong plnnts of either show or fancy correctly named 2s. 6d.; 
cuttings Is. dozen, named; sample blooms, 3d. free.— 
W. k F. WHEELWRIGHT. Florists, OlcUwioford, Stour- 
b ridge, _ 

rTitEENHOUSE GLAZING. — BICKLEY’S 

vX Patent Horizontal Bash Bars are now generally adopted 
on account of economy and durability.—Apply for Price List, 
7. Thorp Street, Birmingham._ 


THE CIRCULATION OF 
GARDENING ILLUSTRATED. 


2,697,173. 


We have examined the Books at 37, Southampton 
Street, showing the number ol copies of " GARDENING 
ILLUSTRATED " printed during the year ending March 
31, 1883, with the following result 
The number of copies printed was 


(Two Millions Six Hundred and Ninety- 
seven Thousand One Hundred and Seventy- 
three), showing, for B3 weekly numbers 
Issued within the year, an average of 

50,890 copies. 

The above figures represent the actual impres¬ 
sions Jor sale cf the lumbers. Parts and Volumes, 
and are wholly exclusive of any special issues. 

JllO. CHADWICK <fc CO., 

Chartered Accountants. 

21, Budge How, Wslbrook, E.C. 


e a a a 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


VoL. V. 


JULY 28, 1883, 


No. 22ft. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Continued from page 223.) 

The Pansy. 

Io toe this family really fine the ground must 
be deep and fairly rich, without fresh manure, 
lie plants turn sickly, and frequently die, if 
smog or rank manure comes immediately into 
rennet with their roots. Fresh, turfy loam, 
with which has been incorporated two or three 
souths previou ly a little short stable or cow- 
ihed manure, and which has become mellow, 
tuj be used to dress the beds with advantage ; 
hut it any fresh manure is used, bury it a foot 
deep at least, so that it may have parted with its 
chief strength before the roots reach it. To pre- 
psrea bed for Pansies, trench it up two spits deep 
not later than September, if it is intended to 
plant in autumn. Of course, there must be ro 
bad subsoil brought to the surface ; but to do 
tales well there should be 2 feet of good soil 
above anything that may be inferior in the 
bottom. If the soil is not of a first-rate character 
(a sound, free-working loam is the best), after 
the bed has been trenched, place on the top 
6 inches of loam, in which a little old manure has 
been blended, and fork it over, mixing a little of 
the top soil with it. In this condition the bed 
may remain till the plants are ready. The best 
time to plant to obtain fine blooms is not later 
than the third week in October. The plants, 
when planted thus early, get well established 
before frost comes to lift them out. Plant in 
rows across the beds, which should be 4 feet 
wide. The rows should be 1 foot apart, 
and the plants about 9 inches apart in the 
rows. When fresh loam is brought in, care 
must be exercised to prevent wireworms gain¬ 
ing a footing in the bed, and in making a 
new bed for choice varieties it is always safest 
to place a few traps for wireworm if there is the 
least suspicion of their presence. Wireworm 
are very fond of Potatoes, Carrots, and other 
vegetable roots; pieces may be inserted in 
various parts of the beds, leaving a peg or 
skewer to mark the spot, so that the traps can 
leeasily examined and the wireworms destroyed. 
To give a successional character to Pansies, 
another bed may be planted towards the end of 
hatch, the ground to be trenched up roughly, 
and exposed to the weather in winter. A cool, 
ratter moist, and partially shaded sitnation is 
best for Pansies, though when the land has been 
deeply worked and top-dressed in the way sug- 
gated, the position of the bed is a matter of less 
nrurtance. A dressing of day where the soil 
ieof a hot nature will be beneficial. Mulching 
atd watering too with pond water are impor¬ 
tant matters. Though pains must be taken with 
ite choice kinds to obtain really fine blooms, 
yet in good soil the Pansy in its hardiest form is 
a excellent border plant, and in a moist, shady 
rvrder takes complete possession of the ground; 
nd if top-dressed occasionally will make a 
eandsome show without much trouble, and last 
lor several years, renewing itself by seeds, the 
reedlings flowering in succession. In fact, such 
i border is seldom without blossoms. This is 
using the Pansy in a rough kind of way for its 
decorative value merely. 

Culture in Pots. 

Fine well-marked flowers, free from weather 
itain*, are usually obtained from the plants 
grown in pots. The cuttings should be struck 
i August, potted into large 3-inch pots when 
rooted, nsing good loam slightly enriched, and 
kept in a cold frame, having free ventilation in 
Sue weather, the pots plunged in Cocoa fibre. 
Early in April shift into 6-inch pots, and re- 
ylunge in fibre. The best position for the frame 
a the north side of wall or fence, not quite close 
to the wadi, bnt far enough to obtain full light, 
ted retain the value of its shelter and shade 
luring the hottest part of the day. As the 
plants grow, a few neat little sticks may be 
iiaced to the shoots. Any plants that do not 
limish a sufficient number of breaks from the 
vo!tom to make nicely furnished plants may 
-arly in the season have their shoots pegged or 
layered into the soil. This will cause them to 
Ame bnshy. Those who make a specialty of 

Digitized by GCU gle 


Pansy culture will find it an advantage to grow 
a selection of the best varieties in pots for seed- 
bearing purposes. 

Propagation by Cuttings. 

Pansy cuttings strike freely at any season of 
the year under suitable conditions, and when 
young shoots can be obtained. In summer and 
autumn dibble the cuttings into a prepared bod, 
under h&ndlights or in a frame, in a cool, shady 
position. It is better, in order to keep out worms, 
to place a layer of coal ashes 2 inches thick in 
the bottom, and on this place the prepared soil 
(sandy loam) about 5 inches deep, with a sprink¬ 
ling of sand on top, or charcoal dust will do 
better even than sand. The Pansy, when bear¬ 
ing roots, requires to be moist, and yet it is im¬ 
patient of watering, damping off if watered too 
freely, especially when kept close under glass; 
hence the importance of planting the cuttings in 
a cool position, where but little water will be 
needed. In winter and spring propagation the 
cuttings are better planted in pots or pans, in 
sandy loam, inserting the cuttings round the 
edges chiefly, and plunging the pots in Cocoa 
fibre or sawdust, thus keeping them moist and 
sheltering them during the frequent changes of 
temperature which occur at those seasons. 

Pansies may be increased by division, and are 
frequently treated so in common cultivation. 
The young shoots may be layered and lifted 
when rooted, and either planted in a nursery bed 
or taken to their final quarters at once. In the 
successful culture of the Pansy, to obtain blooms 
of fine quality a good deal depends upon the 
character of the soil. A loam that has a soft, 
silky touch when nibbed between the fingers 
will grow them to perfection with a little old 
cow-dung added. When grown in pots the pots 
should be carefully drained, not too many crocks 
placed in the bottom, but enough to secure the 
free passage of the water; for though the Pansy 
must have moisture in abundance, yet anything 
approaching stagnation is death to it. Many 
people when told to drain a pot well, overdo it by 
placing so many crocks in the bottom, that the 
space left for soil is unnecessarily curtailed. One 
large piece over the hole in the bottom of the 
pot so placed that the water can escape beneath 
and yet make it difficult for worms to enter; on 
thi6 place three or four pieces of a smaller Bize, 
and then a small handful of little bits that have 
been broken up with a hammer and the dusty 
particles taken out with a sieve. Oyster or 
cockle shells broken with a hammer will do well 
for this latter purpose, but the depth altogether 
if properly placed for a 6-inch pot need not ex¬ 
ceed 1 j inches. I need not say dirty pots should 
not be used for anything till thoroughly cleansed 
with a brush and water. 

The Seeds 

Should be gathered a day or two before they 
are quite ripe, as they burst and the Beeds are 
scattered. They may either be sown as soon as 
fully ripe or be kept till spring. The choicer 
kinds should be sown in pans and placed in a 
frame. A slight warmth till the seeds germi¬ 
nate will be no disadvantage, as tending to 
hasten matters, but, as a rule, the Pansy is im¬ 
patient of artificial heat. Herewith I append a 
list of good varieties in the various classes. 
Whether grown in pots or in beds, liquid manure 
when comiDg into bloom is very beneficial, to 
be continued occasionally during the flowering 
Beason. To obtain fine flowers for any special 
purpose, the plants must be shaded, but con¬ 
tinuous shading is destructive to continuous 
blooming. When flowers as good as can be 
obtained are required at some special time, all 
the blooms and buds should be picked off till 
within a fortnight of that time. 

Show Pansies. 

yellow grounds.— Bendigo, Clonard, Corsair, 
Captain Cowan, Ebor, George Glenny, Master 
Ord, Mrs. Russell, Perfection, Miss Hope, Robert 
Burns, Thos. H. Douglas, Walter McKay. 

White grounds. — Alice Downie, Duchess, 
Bessie McAslan, Ladyburn Rival, Bonny Jean, 
Caroline, Device, Jessie Foote, Miss Forgie, Mrs. 
R. B. Matthews, Princess of Wale9, Mrs. Cairney, 
Mrs. Dancy, Nina, The Mede, Undine. 


Yellow seifs .— Brilliant, Captain Haytor, 
George Murray, George Rudd, Kate, King 
Koffee, Maranata, Martha, Miss Ross, Mrs. Hora- 
burgh. 

White seifs. —Clara, Cupid, Emblem, nigh- 
land Mary, J eanette, Mrs. Cannell, Mrs. Dobbie, 
Peerless, Mrs. Goodall. 

Dark seifs. —Ajax, A. Fox, Beacon, Black 
Knight, Bluestone, Captain Elder, Captain 
Knowles, Danger, David Malcolm, Dr. Graham, 
George Keith, Rev. D. Taylor, Marquis of Lome, 
Prince Bismarck, Robert Parker, W. E. Gladstone, 
Robert Black. 

Fancy Pansies. 

These are of Belgian origin, and are very 
beautiful and attractive, being blotched and 
marked in every conceivable form and colour. 
A. Campbell, Alex. McMillan, Annie Howard, 
Aurora, Bessie Nash, Buttercup, Cleopatrr, 
Colonel Holmes, Dr. Holmes, Catherine Agnes, 
Fred. Perkins, Earl of Beaconsficld, General 
Grant, George Stewart, Jean Watts, John Gray, 
I.aura, Mars, Mrs. Jamieson, Mrs.Goodwin, M'S. 
Birkmyre, Mrs. Barrie, Novelty, Queen of Yel¬ 
lows, Miss Bliss, Orestes, Rifleman, Robert C'on- 
gleton. Rosy Morn, William Dickson, William 
Murray. 

The Paeony. 

Pteonies are divided into two sections, those 
having herbaceous stems and deciduous foliage, 
and the mountain or shrubby species, which a e 
also deciduous. Both the original species weie 
introduced just about a hundred years ago, and 
have since branched off into many formr, 
chiefly noticeable for the many tints and shades 
which appear in their grand, massive flowers. 
Most of the best herbaceous varieties hove 
sprung from a species called albiflora, formerly 
known as P. edulis, because occasionally its roots 
have been eaten; but its value as an edible 
root is not much, though I dare say in time of 
great scarcity, where society is in a primitive 
condition, many roots and herbs not very palat¬ 
able are useful to sustain life. But it is for their 
flowers that the Pteonies are valued now. Un¬ 
fortunately, like many things which possess bril¬ 
liancy of colour or nobility of aspect, the dura¬ 
tion of their period of beauty is very limited, 
and for that reason they are not adapted for the 
parterre, where continuous gaiety is required. 
But this craving after things possessing a per¬ 
petual habit, to my mind, has a mischievous 
tendency, inasmuch as it brings all things 
down to one monotonous level. Those are the 
prettiest gardens where a continual change is 
going on—where, if one flower is leaving ns, 
another equally beautiful is coming on; and it 
is here where the merits of the Paeony will bo 
assessed at their full value. 

Planting in Groups. 

To make the most of Pieonies plant a few in 
a group on some shelving hillside, where they are 
not overshadowed by anything else. The wild 
garden is just the place for displaying their 
beauties. The large clusters of brilliant-tinted 
flowers springing ont of a mass of deep green 
foliage is one of the most effective pictures of 
garden scenery, and they last just long enough 
to satisfy without satiating. Though the Pasony 
is an old-fashioned flower as regards several of 
its varieties and species, and used to be common 
in old-fashioned gardens, and was an especial 
favourite with cottagers, yet few are aware of the 
many beautiful varieties which are now to be ob¬ 
tained from our best hardy plant nurseries. Very 
little need be said abouttheir cultivation,as they 
will thrive in any good garden soil,rather light than 
heavy in texture, and of considerable depth; in¬ 
deed, their large leaves cannot find sustenance 
enough in a shallow soil to build up the crowns 
which produce the large double flowers. 

Propagation 

Is effected by division of the roots in spring. 
They may in the case of choice kinds be cut up 
into single buds, but when this is done it is best 
to plant in the reserve garden for a year or two 
till they gather strength, rather than risk them 
in the garden or where they may be forgo! fen 
and overgrown by other things of less value. 
The 1’ieory seeds freely, even the double 





234 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[July 28, 1883. 


flowers will ripen seeds if fertilised with pollen 
from the single varieties, and an interesting 
progeny may be raised by anyone having the 
necessary time and patience if hybridising is 
systematically carried out. The seeds should be 
sown in pots or pans placed in a close frame as 
soon as ripe, using a light compost of sandy peat 
and loam. 

Herbaceous Ptronies with double flowers.— 
Amabilis grandirtora, creamy white; Anemonic- 
llorastriata, blush yellow; Charles Hinder, silvery 
rose; Clarisse, rosy pink ; Comte de Paris, blush, 
citron centre; Due de Car.es, deep rose; EleganB 
superbissima, rosy blush; General Bertrand, 
peach, salmon centre; Ulobosa, rose, white 
centre; Lilacina superba, rose, lilac, and saffron; 
Lacteola alba, white; Madame Vilmorin, deep 
crimson; MonB. Andre, rose and fawn; Pottsi 
plena, crimson; Prolifera tricolor, centre yellow, 
outer petals white; Queen Victoria, blush, 
lemon centre; Rosea plenissima, centre rose 
nankeen, outer petals carmine; ltubrosum, 
crimson; Sulphurea superba, sulphur; Tenuifolia 
fl -pi., crimson. Many of the best varieties are 
of continental origin. Plant either in autumn or 
spring, having first deepened and enriched the 
soil with leaf-mould. 

Tree or Moutau Pteonies.— Alba lilacina, white 
and violet; Bijou de Chuseen, light purple; 
Blanche du Chateau Futn, white; Carolina, 
salmon; Charles Roper, white; Colonel Malcolm, 
violet; Comte de Flandres, rose; Elisabeth, 
red ; Emilia, carnation ; Fragrans maxima 
plena, rose; Hippolyte, white and Rose; Lactea, 
white; Leopoldi, rose; Madame Stewart Low, 
salmon-red ; Odorata Maria, soft rose; Osiris, 
purple; Ranieri, amaranthe; Rosea Mundi, 
salmon; Rubra odorata plenissima, lilac-rose, 
Samarang, red and black; Souvenir de Madame 
Knon, white and carmine; Triomphe de Malines, 
violet; Triomphe de Vandermaelen, white and 
rose; Rienzi, rose. 

Most of the above have double flowers, some 
are beautifully fragrant. The moutans, though 
not quite so hardy as the herbaceous varieties, 
yet will flourish in a sheltered situation in most 
gardens in light, rich soil. They may be in¬ 
creased by layering or grafting, using the roots 
of the common herbaceous varieties as stocks, 
placing the scions on the crown ends of the 
tubers, then potting them and keeping them 
close in a frame till united. In potting, bury the 
junction to keep out the air. Grafting is best 
done in spring just before the buds break, or in 
summer when the wood is getting a little firm. 
In the latter case the roots which are to form 
the stocks should be kept in pits. Cuttings of 
the young wood getting firm in summer, taken 
off with a heel of old wood, and planted under 
a hand-light in a shady border, will root and 
soon form nice little plantB. The moutans are 
beautiful in pots when forced gently into 
blossom early in spring, the colours of the 
flowers coming out brighter and purer under 
glass than in our bleak climate, and as they 
naturally flower early, a very little forcing will 
bring them into blossom in February. They are 
beautiful in a cool conservatory. 

Delphiniums or Larkspurs. 

After a long period of neglect, these, like all 
really good things, are coming to the front again. 
In the old-fashioned herbaceous border the Del¬ 
phiniums were conspicuous objects; but when 
the rage for bedding out set in the Larkspurs 
were found to be unmanageable subjects, and so 
were discarded, and now many of those people 
who rooted them up are seeking them again. 
They are cheap enough, for a good collection 
may be bought now for the price of one of 
those little parti-coloured Geraniums of a few 
years ago. They are easily propagated by division 
of the roots or crowns, and also by cuttings and 
seeds. They are not particular as to soil or 
situation, and they are hardy enough to plant 
in groups in the wild garden. They usually 
flower in June and July, but by thinning out 
the shoots when a foot or so high a succession of 
flowering spikes are produced all the summer; 
and where a number of plants are used as back¬ 
grounds, by cutting down half the plants when 
about a foot high in June, those so treated will 
be coming into flower about the time the others 
are going off. By a little management, a long 
succession of their brilliant and effective spikes 
of flowers may be obtained. On looking through 
a list of varieties I was acquainted with in 1850, 
I find sixteen nameS'mcntioned tlfcre. Through 

t Z,o de 


the exertions of continental and our own florists, 
four or five times that number of varieties are 
now grown in good nurseries. The following list 
offers a good selection ; — 

.Single-dowered varieties. —Agamemnon, Azu- 
reum, Barlowi, Belladonna, Coronet, Cantab, 
Enchantress, Formosum, Hendersoni, Life 
Guardsman, magnificum, violacea. 

Double-flowered varieties .—Barlowi versicolor, 
General Ulrich, Azureum plenum, Avocat, 
Delioge, Hermann btenger, Keteleeri, Madame 
Henri Jacotot, Madame E. Geney, Mrs. Miller, 
Mrs. James Helme, Palmerston, Protfie. 

E. Hobday. 


VEGETABLES. 


Splnaoh for autumn, winter, and 
spring.— Spinach is not nearly so much grown 
in small gardens as one would think, considering 
the number of dishes that may be obtained from 


a comparatively small piece of ground. The 
summer Spinach very often disappoints, because 
it so soon runs to seed when the soil becomes 
hot. But there are substitutes, such as the New 
Zealand Spinach, Spinach Beet, Good King 
Henry (Chenopodium Bonus-Henricus), and the 
Mountain Spinach, or Orach. These substitutes 
do cot possess in a full degree the flavour of the 
real Spinach, but they are all more or less useful, 
and are easy of cultivation, and possess that 
durability in hot weather which is lacking in the 
true Spinach. For autumn use I sow about the 
end of J uly, usually on the land from which the 
early Potatoes have been taken, which is rich 
enough generally; but if any help is required, a 
dressing of soot and salt with a little guano or 
some other artificial manure supplies it. If the 
weather is dry, the manures mentioned are best 
given in the shape of liquid and poured along 
the drills just before sowing the seeds. This 
adds immensely to the strength of the young 
plants, and pushes them forward rapidly. The 
drills are drawn 1 foot apart and 1 inch deep, 
and the young plants thinned a little where thick 
before they begin to crowd each other. For 
winter use we sow about the middle of August, 
thinning the plants to 6 inches apart, and for 
spring a fortnight later, the latter sowing being 
made on a dry border. Spinach to stand the 
winter is best sown on firm ground, well drained, 
without fresh manure. It follows early Potatoes 
very well, early Turnips, or Horn Carrots. Though 
not generally done. Spinach will transplant very 
weU. I have occasionally transplanted the thin¬ 
nings, and I have once or twice sent baskets of 
plants to my friends when they have been short, 
and they have always succeeded as well as those 
plants that have not been moved. When the 
Spinach begins to run in spring (as sooner or 
later it will), if cut down close a new growth 
will spring up which is exceedingly tender and 
juicy, far superior to the spring raised produce. 
The Prickly is the kind usually sown from the 


! end of July onwards, as it is considered hardier 

than the R< und-seeded, though the latter will 
stand the winter.—H. 

Longsword French Bean. —This is one 
of the earliest and most prolific dwarf Beans in 
cultivation, equally suitable for forcing or for 
out-of-doors. I grew it this season for forcing, 
sowing at the same time two more varieties of 
what I considered to be the earliest sorts. Under 
the same treatment the Longsword produced 
Beans fit for use twelve days before the other 
two sorts were fit to pick from. The plants of 
Longsword bore a heavy crop of fine Beans, aver¬ 
aging from 5 inches to 7 inches in length, thick 
! and fleshy, and when cooked of first-rate quality. 
I have grown this variety side by side with New¬ 
ington Wonder, Sir Joseph Paxton, Canadian 
Wonder,and Early Six Weeks,the seeds of all thes=e 
kinds being sown on the same day upon a south 
border under the 6ame treatment. Longsword 
was ready for use nine days before the others, 
producing Beans of first-rate quality and in 


abundance,each plant often bearing from thirty- 
five to forty pods. Plants of it grow stout and 
throw out numerous side branches, which keep 
flowering and producing quantities of Beans. It 
resembles Canadian Wonder in growth, but is 
dwarfer and more stocky. The other varieties 
come into bearing as follows : Early Six Weeks, 
Newington Wonder, Sir Joseph Paxton, and 
Canadian Wonder. The last is one of the very 
best of Beans, and one which produces pods of 
great length and perfect in form. It is, moreover, 
one of the best for a general crop either in gar¬ 
den or field.—W. C. 

Mystt’a Prolific Kidney Potato_ 

Although by no means a new sort, I find this 
still one of the very best Potatoes for a general 
crop in gardens. It is a very handsome Potato, 
exceedingly prolific, and above all it matures its 
crop early, thereby not only escaping disease 
better than late sorts, but it can be lifted and 
stored in time to get other crops into the ground 
with a good chance of making good progress 
while the growing season lasts. I may also add 
that Myatt's Prolific makes but very little haulm 
or top-growth compared with many of the late 
sorts, that are really only fit for field culture. I 
have tried many sorts of Potatoes, but until I 
| find a better I shall plant Myatt's more largely 
than any other kind. At this time of year I often 
hear amateur gardeners complain of not getting 
their ground cleared in time for winter crops, 
owing to having planted late sorts of Potatoes 
that keep on growing until Michaelmas. But if 
they were to plant such sorts as Myatt's, they could 
lift them fit for storing in July, and thereby get 
space for winter Onions, Turnips, Celery 
Spinach, and Cabbage, and various other sorts 
of the Brassica tribe. I know it is customary to 
plant Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, 4cc., between 
the ridges of late Potatoes, but other winter 
crops are not so easily managed until the land is 
cleated, and the bnly way to ensure this is to 
rely on sorts that mature early.—1.0., O’osjtort 


URBANA-t^jf 5 ilPjpCn' ’ 



Common Spinach (Spinada oleracm). 


I 

i 


I 


i 














July 28, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


235 


Sowing Cabbage plants.— Common as 

this operation may be considered to be, it must 
now receive attention, and every gardener knows 
what an important matter the successful man¬ 
agement of the Cabbage crop is. Choose a border 
for the beds, say after Potatoes or early Peas, 
as poor and dry' as possible, but well exposed to 
the winter sun. Dig it over on the evening of a 
very hot day. Few are aware of the advantage 
gained by thus economising twelve hours of sun 
heat. In order to obtain nice, stocky little 
plants, avoid giving manure of any kind. After 
digging, tread the piece of ground, and, marking 
oat the beds, sow the seeds and name them 
carefully, give a fair soakiDg of water, and 
sow soot over the beds, which serves a three-fold 
purpose. The seeds being, as it were, imbedded 
in soot, are quite safe from the ravages of birds, 
and it also prevents the plants from “ clubbing,” 
and last, but not least, it fertilises the soil. Then 
spread a few spadefuls of well-broken soil over 
the beds, and finish them up according to taste. 
I always prefer sowing Cauliflower seeds in 
I lines, but otherwise I give them the same treat¬ 
ment as Cabbage seed. As soon as the young 
plants can be handled they should be “ drawn," 
in order to thin the beds, and laid deeply in 
rich, light soil, in lines 6 inches apart and 2 
inches between the plants. Thus treated they 
will pass a comparatively hard winter in safety, 
and be found in spring well-rooted, bushy little 
plants.—W. D. 


Turnips. —We find the Early Munich Purple- 
top to be excellent as regards earliness and to 
he of good flavour. Jersey Lily, also a good 
flavoured Turnip, forms a succession to it. Un¬ 
cooked it is sweeter than some Melons. Two 
good kinds for a general crop are Cattell's Silver 
Ball and Veitch's Red Globe. These four varie¬ 
ties well grown are not easily surpassed.— J. R. 

9086.—Cucumbers not growing. — Is 
“ J. P.’ sure he keeps the proper temperature in 
his frames 1 Does he regulate the temperature 
by a thermometer? It requires long experience 
to keep a uniform temperature without one. He 
should keep the temperature as near tvs possible 
at 80° in sunshine, and avoid shading. On windy 
days he should allow but a very small opening, 
especially on the windy side. Cucumbers require 
abundance of water, and on every sunny day he 
should water at closiug, and not shut up after the 
sun has left, but a short time before, to lay in a 
stock of heat,—L. C. K. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 


they will have more warmth than is just suffi¬ 
cient to keep them growing, but they should not 
be pushed on into flower faster than can be 
helped ; give them sufficient support in the shape 
of sticks and ties to prevent the shoots hanging 
about in a loose, untidy manner. Seedling 
Gloxinias, as well as the last potted bulbs, should 
likewise be kept as cool as they will bear. If 
the earliest flowered plants have been kept free 
from insects and managed so as to promote 
healthy growth, they will bloom a second time, 
and will be much assisted by having liquid 
manure given every other time they want water¬ 
ing. Gloxinias are not now propagated much 
by means of cuttings, fine kinds being readily 
obtained from seed, but where good named sorts 
are grown, or any extraordinarily good formed 
or well marked seedlings have appeared, it is 
well to guard against losing them in the winter 
by raising some youDg bulbs. The leaves will 
now be in the right condition for propagating, 
being well matured. Put three or four together 
into 6-inch or 7-inch pots filled with leaf-mould 
and fine peat, two parts of the latter to one of 
the former, with a fourth part of sand, inserting 
the leaves round the edges of the pots. By this 
means much better bulbs will be secured than 
by cutting the mid-rib of the leaf and placing it 
on the surface of the pot. These leaf-cuttings 
must not be confined over much, or they will be 
liable to rot. It may be well to remark that 
the more perfect and well matured the leaves 
are the better, as the longer they remain green 
and fresh the better bulbs they will make. 

Cyclamens.— A sowing of seed of these 
beautiful spring-flowering plants should be 
made without delay. There is nothing like shal¬ 
low pans in which to sow the seed, and the Boil 
should be a fine, free, sandy one. The pans re¬ 
quire to be placed in a brisk, moist bottom-heat, 
with a piece of glass over the pans. The seed, 
if full and well ripened, soon germinates, and 
when the plants are large enough to have put 
forth three leaves they should be pricked off into 
5-inch pots in a rich, light soil; the pots should 
be well drained. The growers of Cyclamens in 
quantity are now busily engaged in getting their 
seed sown, and their practice is the one just set 
forth. Plants raised from seed sown in August 
make good plants to flower fifteen months after¬ 
wards if they be grown on as fast and as 
liberally as possible. 

Winter Mignonette.— Seed of this should 
now be 6own to flower in the winter. For this 
drain some 6-inch pots; use ordinary loam, to 
which add one-fifth of leaf-mould and rotten 
manure, as also some sand; with this fill up the 
pots to within an inch of the rim, smooth the 
surface, putting a dozen seeds in each, cover 
lightly, and keep slightly moist. The seeds 
will germinate in a week or two, when they 
must have plenty of light and air. An ordinary 
garden frame, with the lights off, except in very 
wet weather, is the most suitable place for 
them during the next six or eight weeks. There 
is nothing more acceptable either for cutting, 
greenhouse, or room decoration through the 
winter or early spring than Mignonette, and it 
is very suitable for amateurs to cultivate; the 
principal point to be observed is to give 
plenty of air and light in the early stages, so 
as to keep the plants dwarf and stout; if 
ever they get weak and drawn up, they are 
worthless. 

Plumbago capensis —Few plants are so 
useful as this grown in small pots at this season 
of the year, either for large conservatories, small 
greenhouses, or windows. Plants that have already ! 
been in flower for some time will generally push 
up side shoots from the stronger branches, 
which make excellent cuttings if taken off now 
and treated in the ordinary way ; they will get 
established before winter, and will make ser¬ 
viceable flowering stock for next summer. A 
sufficient number should be prepared, as they 
are of much more use in a small than in a large 
state, and the delicate blue shade of the flowers 
furnishes a colour which we need, and which 
harmonises well with everything else it is asso¬ 
ciated with. 

Fuchsias. — These strike like weeds, and 
the present is the l>est time in the year for put¬ 
ting in cuttings in order to get young stock 
that will bloom as early in the spring as is 
j required in a comparatively small state : or 
they may be grown on at the option of the 
I cultivator to as large a size as may be con¬ 


sidered requisite for later flowering. Shoots 
that have formed bloom root indifferently, and 
never make good plants. Young growths should 
be chosen from near the base of the stronger 
branches. Put these, say, half a-dozen together 
in 5-inch or 6-inch pots, drained and filled 
with sandy soil, covering with a bell-glass. 
Keep them moist and shaded in a little warmth. 
Take care that the cuttings previous to inser¬ 
tion are free from aphides and red spider, 
especially the latter, to which Fuchsias are 
subject at this time of the year. Out of the 
many fine varieties that now exist there need be 
no lack of choice; but there is a great difference 
in their inclination to flower early. Amongst all 
that have been raised, none find so much favour 
with market growers as regards their early free- 
blooming disposition as the white rose-corol- 
lared variety called Mrs. Marshall (s> n. Ara¬ 
bella) and the crimson kind, with violet corolla, 
named Try-Me-O. The plants which bloomed 
early, and which are now getting shabby, should 
be turned out-of-doors for a fortnight, and 
should receive no more water than will keep 
them from flagging too much; then let their 
side branches be well shortened in and the main 
stem slightly reduced, giving a good washing 
with Tobacco water, to which a little Gishurst 
has been added, so as to free them from aphides, 
thrips, and their eggs, and then put them in a 
, pit that can be kept close and slightly shaded. 
Thus treated and syringed overhead daily, they 
will quickly break into fresh growth. If in com¬ 
paratively little pots they may have a small 
shift; but if they have sufficient room already, 
weak manure water will answer. Under this 
treatment they will again get well furnished 
with branches that will keep on flowering until 
the end of October or later, and they will be 
found very serviceable for greenhouse and con¬ 
servatory decoration, as well as for cutting, in 
which condition their flowers will last much 
longer than earlier in the season. 

Petunias.— The beautiful single forms of 
these raised from seed sown early in spring 
furnish useful decorative flowering plants 
through the summer for conservatories and 
greenhouses; but their natural straggling 
habit is a defect that does not exist in the 
double-flowered kinds. The latter keep on 
blooming for months without getting at all de¬ 
nuded of their leaves or unsightly. These are 
increased by means of cuttings, which for flower¬ 
ing next year should be put in now, selecting 
for the purpose the young soft shoots that will 
generally be found springing from near the base 
of the plants now in bloom. Treated in the 
usual way they will root in a few weeks, when 
they should be meved singly into 3-inch pots into 
sandy loam, and placed through the autumn 
and winter on a shelf near the glass, where 
they will keep on making slow progress and 
be in a proper state for moving on early in the 
spring. Petunias, both double and single, that 
have been blooming for some time will be much 
benefited by the use of manure water. 

Vallota PURruREA.— This beautiful plant is 
one of the most useful which we have through 
this and the succeeding month, as where a suffi¬ 
cient stock of it exists there is no difficulty in 
having it to come in in succession during that 
time. It is most serviceable when grown in 
from 6-inch to 9-inch pots, with from a couple 
to half-a-dozen bulbs in each, as it does not like 
too much root-room. After the flower-stalk 
first shows itself the blooms come on very rapidly, 
and where a succession is needed a por¬ 
tion of the plants may be retarded by placing 
them in a frame at the north side of a wall 
where they will be little under the influence of 
the sun. The Vallota is a plant that requires to 
be kept always moderately moist, especially 
when exposed to sunshine ; but whilst in chilly 
quarters it must not be kept over-moist. Attend 
to advancing stock of this plant taken off in the 
spring from the larger bulbs; give all the light 
that a good well-glazed house affords and plenty 
of water, by which means the bulbs will increase 
to a blooming size much quicker than if sub¬ 
jected to comparative neglect. 

Late Heliotropes. —Plants of these pro¬ 
pagated in spring will now be found useful for 
blooming late in the autumn when flowers are 
scarce. They are always acceptable both on 
account of their colour and perfume. To have 
them in a condition to bloom freely they must 
' be well attended to when their pots are full of 


Retract* from a Garden Diary—July 30 to 
Avgust 4. 

Sowing Tennis Ball, Bath Cos, Neapolitan, and Drum¬ 
head Cabbage Lettuce, Radishes, and winter Cucumbers ; 
a!*.) Mignonette in pots. Potting young scented leaved 
Pelargoniums, Balsams, and Carnations; also Straw- 
! wi«ri. Putting in cuttings of variegated Pelargoniums 
ltd named Cinerarias. Planting a good breadth of 
Ladive, Cauliflower, and Grange's Broccoli. Staking 
brysanthemums, dwarf Dihliaa, Calceolarias, and late 
Nailing Apricots. Shifting Primulas and old stools 
f Poinsettiaa. Cutting down Pelargoniums. Exposing 
fruit on trees in late Peach house to the sun. Making 
trachea for Leeks. Layering Strawberry plants for 
planting out-of-doors. Earthing up Broccoli. Digging 
znxmd for Wallflowers. Hoeing among Roses. Clipping 
s-Mg-g Sowing Schizanthua and latest Balsams. Pot- 
dsg young Strawberries for planting out, consisting of 
arioaldi. Keen’s Seedling, President, Dr. Hogg, Oscar, 
Ldipae, Sir Harry, Elton Pine, a few Black Prince, British 
7 ueen. and Sir Joseph Paxton ; likewise last-sown Cine¬ 
rarias and Carnations. Putting in cuttings of Coleus and 
Aiternantheraa. Shifting Primulas into flowering pots, 
Vigandias into 8-inch pots, also Stocks, and parting and 
•spotting Caladinois. Staking and tying Dahlias and 
I srita-purs. Pulling up Onions Cutting Lavender. Dig¬ 
ring ground for .Spinach. Earthing up Broccoli. 

Sewing Radishes and Lettuce. Potting some Stocks and 
Wallflowers for spring, three in a pot. Laytriog Anne 
•risyn and other Pinks. Staking Chrysanthemums and 
‘dsdiolL Moving herbaceous Calceolarias to shady place 1 
.2 frame. Karthing up early Celery. Sowing Tripoli Onions. 
Planting Lettuce ana Endive ; also some Stocks and Wall- 
an Taking up Garlic and Shallots. Clipping Yew 
-‘•lew. Removing faded Sweet William stems. Earthing 
Brussels Sprouts and manuring land for Turnips. 
vy ing ground for Onions, Cauliflower, and Broccoli, 
wing Endive for spring crop ; also Intermediate Stocks, 
‘saating Wallflowers ; also July-sown Bath Cos Lettuce, 
some Paris Cos and Ne Plus Ultra Cabbage Lettuce, 
itiog Gooseberries. Sowing Nemophila; also main 
prickly Spinach, Veitch's Incomparable, Reliance, 
srwrial. Queen. Little Pixie, Enfield and Red Cabbages, 
'«. : cher«n Cauliflower, snow’s and Osborn’s Broccoli, 
-apoll Ouiuos, and Cncumbera. 

Glasshouses. 

lC H l M K N ES AND GLOXINIAS.—The latest 
'rich of Achimenes started to come into bloom 
'tin the earliest are ove^onght not to^be jjh^re 




336 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[July 28, 1883. 


roots mannre-water will much assist them. The 
old variety is still a general favourite, but under 
glass rather light coloured. Etoile de Marseille 
is a line kind as regards colour, as is also Madame 
Fillion. Standard and other large plants that 
have bloomed for a considerable time under 
glass should be supplied weekly with manure 
water sufficiently diluted, as by no other means 
can plants that continue through the season pro¬ 
ducing a succession of growth and flowers be 
kept in the vigorous condition which is essential 
not only to their healthy appearance, but to 
enable them to bear the full amount of bloom of 
which they are capable. 

Flower garden. 

This is a good time to fill up any spare space 
there may still be in mixed flower borders with 
seedling Wallflowers, Antirrhinums, Pentste- 
mons, and Sweet Williams. Plant them out in 
clamps of three or five plants together, and give 
them a good watering when they are first put 
out. All the attention required afterwards is 
protection from slugs until they have become 
well established. Herbaceous plants generally 
need attention as to ties and supports and 
weeding. Dahlias, Hollyhocks, and all large 
growing sub-tropical plants should be frequently 
looked over, and be kept tied to stakes as growth 
progresses. Roses should have ail decayed 
flowers cut off at least twice a week, an operation 
which will tend to the earlier production of a 
second bloom. Stir the ground about them 
deeply, and if they lack vigour of growth, give a 
good dressing of guano; its effects will soon be 
visible in the darker hue of the foliage. If it is 
not intended to save seeds of Delphiniums the 
seed-pods should be removed in a green state; 
this will cause the side stems to flower stronger. 
Pentstemons and Antirrhinums are now coming 
into bloom, a condition in which they will con¬ 
tinue until frost sets in. Tie the stems to sticks 
as they advance in growth, and keep the beds in 
which they are planted cleared of weeds. 

Fruit. 

Strawberry. —Plants should now be cleared 
of runners and the ground “ pointed” over. New 
plantations may also be made, either with forced 
plants or newly-formed runners. Deeply and 
well-enriched ground is indispensable to the 
production of fine Strawberries. Thin out the 
new canes of Raspberries to the minimum point 
—about three to each stool—and as soon as the 
fruit has all been gathered, any of the old canes 
that interfere with the full development of the 
new growths should be removed. In order to 
prevent injury from wind, the new canes should 
also be tied in at once. The new shoots and 
points of cordons and espalier-trained trees of 
Apples and Pears may likewise now be tied in. 
Spur back all growths not required for furnishing 
the trees to within three joints of the old wood, 
an operation which, combined with partial root- 
pruning at the proper season, will conduce to 
fruitfulness. The majority of Peaches and 
Apricots may now have the current year's shoots 
laid or tied in to the wall, but previously pinch 
closely back all sub-lateral growths that have 
formed on them. Any trees that have suffered 
from the effects of last winter’6 severity, and 
which have not yet fully recovered their former 
vigour, may still be left to grow unrestrictedly, 
but no fruit must be expected from them next 
season. Keep down aphides and red spider by 
occasional syringings with soap-suds or a weak 
solution of Gishurst compound. 

Vegetables. 

The so-called varieties of Cabbage are legion ; 
amongst the best. Carter's Heartwell takes a pro¬ 
minent place, being large in size and good in 
quality. Enfield Market and Harr’s No. 1 are 
also remarkably good. The first sowing should 
be made on or about the 28th July in shallow 
drills, covering the seeds with burnt refuse; should 
the land be dry, water the drillB without a rose 
on your watering pot. Lettuces and Endive may 
be sown at the same time. I always sow small 
seeds at this season, on land which has been 
broken with the cultivator rather than having it 
dug up. The land for Tripoli Onions can hardly 
be too rich; about the first week in next month 
is the right time to sow them. Many growers 
sow in drills, and transplant either in autumn or 
early in spring, but the best bulbs I ever grew 
were sown in 1 feet beds and duly thinned, leaving 
only the best plants.-The land shotild be heavily I 

c t TjO gie 


manured and deeply dug, breaking the soil as the 
work proceeds; afterwards tread it firmly, rakeit, 
and then proceed to lay out your beds. Wher¬ 
ever there is room plant with the crowbar any 
kind of good Broccoli: everything in this way is 
always useful when frost visits us. I am busy 
stirring the ground among all growing crops with 
the cultivator, letting in the air and killing the 
weeds at the same time. Coleworts are especial 
favourites, but we like them white. I therefore 
plant them a little earlier than I otherwise 
would do at 12 inches apart. The site is that 
just cleared of Early Potatoes, and well broken 
up with our cultivators, then drills are drawn 
and well watered, the only preparation the 
land requires; no digging or manuring is done ; 
in fact if kitchen gardening is to be made easy, 
you must step out of the beaten track and find 
others more in accordance with the times in 
which we live. 

Cucumbers.— Where the Cucumber house 
proper is devoted to the growth of Melons in 
summer, the raising of young plants must be 
regulated by the time at which it is likely to be 
ready for their reception. A manure frame or 
pit with fermenting material for giving bottom 
heat is the most suitable structure for raising 
and growing the plants in, as they can be kept 
near the glass until they are large enough for 
shifting into the fruiting pots. Immediately 
after the Melons are removed, clear away all old 
soil and plunging material, thoroughly cleanse 
the walls, wash the glass, and paint the wood¬ 
work if necessary; then fill the pit to the usual 
level with fresh fermenting leaves, plunge the 
fruiting pots and introduce the compost, but 
defer planting until the heat of the bed has 
subsided to 90° and the soil is thoroughly 
warmed through. If due attention is given to 
early closing with solar heat and moisture, and 
a sweet bottom heat is kept up, the firing of 
bouses now in full bearing may be discontinued. 
Dress the plants three times a week, and avoid 
over-crowding by, stopping at the first joint 
beyond the fruit and by the removal of a few of 
the old leaves and vines, as they can be taken 
away without producing a check. Add fresh 
turf to the hills, little and often, feed copiously 
with warm diluted liquid, draw the lights off 
occasionally when warm rain is falling, syringe 
well, and shut up not later than three o'clock on 
fine afternoons. Renovate the linings of frames 
back and front alternately, and cover well with 
dry mats. Keep the stems and foliage regularly 
thinned, stop close, and guard against over¬ 
cropping. Follow up the system of cutting away 
all the fruit, old leaves, and vines, as the plants 
which have been longest in bearing show signs 
of failing in the production of fine, straight 
fruit. Peg the young growths down into the 
hills, pack with pieces of fresh turf, and keep 
close and moist until fresh roots are formed. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

Greenhouse plants.— Nearly all greenhouse 
plants will be greatly benefited by being placed 
in a partially shaded spot out-of-doors from the 
present time until themiddleorendof September. 
Plants so treated not only become effectually 
cleared of insect Dests, but, from the thorough 
hardening and ripening of the tissues induced by 
this treatment, stand the winter much better, 
and start more strongly into growth in the spring. 
Of course they must be properly watered while 
standing out, and otherwise attended to as care¬ 
fully as ever, though if plunged up to the rim of 
the pot in some moist material, they will not be 
nearly so much trouble as if kept under glass, 
on the whole. Any plants that must be retained in 
the house must have abundance of air, particu¬ 
larly on warm nights, and be frequently and 
heavily syringed; any that are still in growth, or 
flowering, should have plenty of liquid manure 
administered, particularly if in rather small pots. 

Chrysanthemums, especially if many are 
grown in pots, will now demand more attention 
than almost anything else. Of course these are 
now plunged out-of-doors, and if not already in 
their flowering pots, should be put in them 
without delay. The main thing is to keep them 
liberally supplied with water, then to see that 
they are properly staked and tied out in such a 
manner as to keep each shoot as far as possible 
from its neighbours, so as to allow the sun and 
air to act freely upon every leaf. Then the shoots 
must be judiciously thinned as required, particu¬ 
larly if largo blooms are wished for. 


Pentstemons are now in perfection, and if 
they have been liberally grown are sure to be 
greatly admired. Abutilons that were planted 
out some time ago are in rapid growth, and need 
abundance of water and liquid manure. The 
same may be said of Dahlias, Cannas, Castor oils, 
Nicotianas and some other quick-growing tender 
subjects. 

Chinese Primulas ought to be fit for potting 
into 5-inch pots now, or shortly; let this be done 
at once, when fit. The best stuff for these is a 
good fibry loam, with half its bulk of leaf-mould, 
and a good sprinkling of coarse sand. Pot them 
just firm and place the plants in a cool shady 
frame, kept close at first. Cinerarias will also 
want potting ; use the same compost as for 
Primulas, but with a little rotten manure added ; 
grow these on as fast as possible now for early 
winter flowering. Pot on also a good batch 
of Abutilons for the same purpose. The white 
Boule de Neige is about the best and most useful 
still. A few Nicotiana affinis potted now will i 
come in useful from about Christmas time 
onwards. 11. C. R. 


BOSES. 

Boses in town gardens. -When I first 
came to this house, in 1874, I found that the 
garden had been left pretty much to itself, but 
among the plants in the borders I found the 
following Roses: A Maiden's Blush, an old 
Damask, a Rose do Meaux, and an Aimfie Vibert. 

The Maiden’s Blush was on a wall facing north¬ 
east, and though it bloomed profusely every 
year, it was much affected by aphides, and the 
blooms were often imperfect in consequence. I 
accordingly removed the old plant, and planted 
in its stead a sturdy young sucker from it. This 
has grown fairly well since, and this year showed , 
bloom for the first time. The old Damask was 
in a border facing south-west, and has annually 
produced abundance of large and handsome 
blooms. The Rose de Meaux also flowers every 
year, but not so freely as the Damask. The 
most successful of the four, however, has been 
the Aimfie Vibert. This is planted against a 
wall facing south-west, and, no matter what the 
season may be, it always sends up strong new 
wood, which about this time pr oducea clusters 
of most charming white and -fragrant Roses. 

My plant has never failed, and it is undoubtedly 
the Rose for London gardens, and the Damask - 
is almost as good, while with good culture I be- 1 
lieve the old Maiden's Blush and the Rose de 
Meaux will also do well. I have tried Ffilicitfi 
Perpetude and Gloire de Dijon, but they have 
not proved to be satisfactory. A Boursault has 
in some seasons done extremely well, but this 
year it was so blighted in the spring, that it 
failed to bloom.—W. J. T., Brixion. 

A Bose for the greenhouse —I sel¬ 
dom see special mention made of the beantifnl 
Rose Adam, though few Roses can equal it in 
general usefulness. A correspondent in The 
Garden once proposed to place it next in order 
of merit to Gloire de Dijon, and remarked that 
he had just taken his sixth crop of bloem from 
it. This honourable position I should unhesita¬ 
tingly accord it, as I know of no Rose so capable, 
if I except the old Gloire, of flowering so freely 
for so long a period. Its value is most apparent 
under glass, as with gentle warmth it will bloom 
from February until late in autumn. If well 
supplied with liquid manure, and otherwise pro¬ 
perly attended to, the plants will not be in¬ 
juriously affected by this long continuance in 
bloom, but I should not advise their being sub¬ 
jected to so great a strain, the more particularly 
as all blooms produced after June must be 
at the expense of winter or spring crop as the 
case may be. I would rather pick off buds that, 
form, so as to induce strong growth, which well 
ripened, will be sure to yield a rich harvest of 
flowers at the appointed time. Were I restricted 
to three kinds of Roses for culture nnder 
Adam would certainly be one of them, and I am 
not sure but I should prefer it to all others were 
I limited to a single plant. The half-opened 
buds are admirable for button-hole and other 
bouquets and I strongly advise rosarians to tX 

note of this Tea Rose, as I knowfr„ m __ e 

that it is a most profitable kind to grow.— BjcT* 
White Boses.—The favourite 
white Tea Roses are Niphetos n ™, on ? purc 
Madame Willermoz, Marie P Gniiw )e ^ OQle nKi.s, 
Firoia, and Alba rosea. Of i v," , n ocerito 
t “■ ot these a few are 



Jolt 28, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


237 


\ 


tinted with colour in the open air, but pure 
uodar glass. The only pure white Hybrid Per¬ 
petual is Boule de Neige, but this bears a closer 
resemblanoe to the Provence habit, and is not so 
constant as the common Hybrid Perpetuals. It 
is. however, very beautiful early in the season. 
The best white Bourbon is Acidalie, and of 
Noisettes, Lamarque and Aimee Vibert. There 
are also Reine Blanche, the beautiful white 
Moss, the white Banksian, and though small, not 
least, the pretty little kind Fairy Pet, a lovely 
little Rose for pot culture.—A. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


PREPARING PLANTS FOR WINTER 
FLOWERING. 

Where a good supply of flowering plants 
either for decoration or for supplying cut flowers 
daring the dull days of winter, are needed, no 
time mnst be lost in preparing tbe plants, for 
unless they are well rooted, it is useK ss to expect 
good results. Amongst the numerous kinds of 
winter-flowering plants I have at various times 
tried, the following are the best and most 
reliable, of comparatively easy growth, and not 
requiring anything more than the ordinary 
appliances to be found in medium-sized gardens 
to bring them to a high state of perfection. 

Zonal Pelargoniums, single and donble, 
are perhaps even more valuable as winter than 
as summer flowers, and to have them in good 
condition, they should be potted at once in 
medium-sized pots, using good sound loam, 
placing them in an open sunny position, and keep¬ 
ing the flowers picked off as they appear, so as 
to save the strength of the plants. I find 5-inch or 
d-inch pots the most serviceable; the soil should 
be pressed down very firmly. Some of the double 
and semi-double varieties are also excellent for 
winter work. 

FtUfOLA sinensis is a first-rate winter flower; 
the seed should be sown early in March in heat, 
and the plants grown on in a cold frame during 
the summer, keeping them shaded from bright 
sunshine, and being very careful in watering. 
A cool bed of coal ashes is the best foundation 
for them in summer, but as soon as the days 
begin to get short, say in the beginning of 
October, the plants must be removed to a light 
airy house where a warm temperature can be 
maintained, and they will soon be in flower, and 
from November to May make an excellent dis- 
play. 

Tree Carnations should now be in their 
towering pots, 6-inch ones are large enough for 
young plants. A good sound loam is the best 
compost for them ; put a single stake to each 
piunt, and tie up as growth progresses. A bed 
of ashes is the best summer quarters for them. 

Chrysanthemums of the late flowering kind 
rre more winter than autumn flowers, and may 
be had in good condition at Christmas. Select 
late flowering kinds, and do not hurry the growth 
They should be finally potted now, and grown on 
ireeiy, keeping them out-of-doors as late as 
possible, and, when severe frost compels their 
reing taken under cover, keep air on day and 
sght, for if dry they withstand a deal of frost 
withuut in j ury. 

Cinerarias, if sown early in March, make 
very useful winter-flowering plants. They should 
sow be potted in 6-inch pots, using a light 
compost and treating them like Chinese Primulas. 


A butii.on Boule de Niege is a capital 
sinter flower. Give the plants a good shift now 
» encourage rapid growth, keep them out of 
ioors until September, then remove to an inter¬ 
mediate house, and they will continue to flower 
far a length of time. 

Eupabtokium Odoratissimum is another 
eaatiful white-flowering plant treated as the 
■hove. And Mignonette should now be sown 
‘or wi nter ; it is so sweetly perfumed that every 
«ae likes it, even without the attraction of 
rilliant colouring. James Groom. 

Oatport. 


Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums —No class 
«f Pelargoniums has shown such rapid strides 
ritbin the last few years as the Ivy-leaved 
“ction, in which there now exists great diversity 
tf colour in both the single and donble kinds. 
he the whole of the following we are indebted 
kcontinental growers: ^E0Tydice has ajfr^e, 


vigorous habit, and large semi-double flowers of 
a bright rosy mauve colour, shaded in the centre 
with violet. Except that the flower is altogether 
)f a brighter tint, it resembles in general ap- 
oearance that of the better known Mdme. 
Oronsse. Comte and Comtesse Horace de Choi- 
<euil were both awarded certificates last year by 
r he Royal Horticultural Society. The flowers of 
ihc first are salmon-rose, with at times striped 
petals; those of the second are bright pink, 
-haded towards the outside with magenta. 
Mdme. Jules Menoreau is a round double flower 
of a remarkably pleasing shade of deep rose, 
very distinct from any of the older kinds, but in 
intensity of colouring scarcely equal to Mdme. 
Lemoine. The latter may be described as a truly 
magnificent variety, the habit being free and 
vigorous, the trusses large, and the individual 
flowers very double. In this the brilliant rose 
colour is shaded with mageuta. Robert Fortune 
is not new, but the colour is very distinct from 
that of the others. In this variety the flowers 
ire more sparely produced than is generally the 
case. The above are all double flowered kinds. 
Of the new single Multiflore is very beautiful, 
its flowers are good in shape, and in colour very 
bright rose. Although a true Ivy-leaved kind, 
its blooms are nearly equal to the zonal varieties 
in form, and quite so in their beautiful tint 
Beautfl de Lyon is not new, but is still a desi¬ 
rable kind. It is of much stouter growth than 
any of the preceding, and looks as if it might 
have been a cross between the Ivy and the zonal 
sections; the flowers most resemble those of the 
last-named class, and the foliage that of the first. 
In colour the blossoms are bright scarlet, shaded 
with purple.—H. P. 

Flowers and plants In rooms.— Few 

summer flowers are so valuable for cutting as 
Alstrccmerias. They have every good quality for 
decorative purposes—easy to arrange, lasting 
long in water, and their varied colours always in 
perfect harmony. Except the hardy Azaleas, 
whose colouring theirs so much resembles, no 
family of tall-growing flowers gives us such a fine 
and varied range of warm colours. A bold 
bunch, cut over 2 feet long, stands in a tall glass 
with some leaves of Globe Artichoke. In another 
large upright glass some spikes of palest blue 
Delphiniums are arranged with the foamy double 
Meadow Sweet and side flowers of white Fox¬ 
glove. A brilliant effect is got by a combination 
of orange E.chscholtzias (some Mandarin) with 
yellow and orange Nasturtiums in a wide oval 
bowi of blue and white earthenware. Holly with 
green berries and single white Brier Roses make 
a pretty table bouquet in a silver cup, and a silver 
basket holds pale pink Tea Roses. The dinner- 
table is dressed with red and pink Alstrosmerias. 
Various Begonias are in sitting-rooms as pot 
plants. 

9884. — Propagating India-rubber 
plants.— In order to obtain the best results, the 
cuttings should be struck at the beginning of 
the winter, as then they have the following year 
a long season of growth before them. The cut¬ 
tings should be made from the past season’s 
growth, terminal shoots being best, as they start 
away more freely into growth, but any portion 
of the young wood will do, cutting it to two 
eyes, leaving the topmost leaf entire and cut¬ 
ting the lowermost clean away. Wash the leaves 
before inserting the cuttings, each one oi which 
should have a small pot to itself, and be tied to 
a small stick, so that it does not come out of 
the soil, which they are apt to do if not fastened, 
owing to the size and weight of the foliage. 
Bottom heat is not absolutely necessary, as they 
will strike under a handlight in a constant 
temperature of 60° to 65°, but if they can he 
plunged in or stood upon a tan bed, or where 
there is bottom heat of some kind, they will root 
qnicker. Keep the soil moist, and when the pots 
are full of roots shift into the next sized pots. 
—J. C., Byfleet. 


FRUIT. 

Melon disease. —I am delighted with the 
results, which have been attended with success, 
of tlie application of the remedy which I dis¬ 
covered some short lime ago for this disease, 
viz., alum and sulphur. A finer crop and more 
beautiful fruit than I now have could not be cut. 
No one need be afraid to nse alum in large 
quantities about the collar of the plant or any 
other diseased part. It will heal and arrest the 


disease, and the sulphur will act as a repellant 
to water and damp. As regards the plants them¬ 
selves, all thinning and stopping should be done 
in the morning, and with a sharp knife —never 
with the finger and thumb, and plenty of air 
should be given to dry- up and heal the wounds. 
All heavy waterings should be given in 
the morning, to avoid wetting the foliage. 
Shut up early, with as much heat as you caD, 
then give a little air all night. Water and damp 
feed the disease.—J. E. W. 

Planting Strawberries.— What a waste 
of time it is to put out weakly Strawberry plants 
when forming new plantations. Heavy crops 
are gathered from young plants of the first sea¬ 
son under glass, and the same thing would 
happen in the open air if the same attention was 
given the plants in their early stages. All suc¬ 
cess is based upon early preparatory work. The 
earlier Strawberries are planted, and the stronger 
the plants the better, in all probability, will be 
the result. But firmness of root-run is closely 
linked in with successful Strawberry culture ; 
and this firmness should not be the close-grained 
hardness of unworked land, but should 1 e the 
settling down of deeply-stirred staple of some 
months previous. Very good results have been 
obtained as follows : The ground has been well 
manured and deeply trenched in winter, planted 
with Early Prolific Potatoes in February or 
March and followed by Strawberries in July of 
the same year.—H. 

Watering Vine borders —This is the 
time to help late crops of Grapes by giving them 
plenty of water at the roots. If the border is 
well drained, and composed of porous soil, it 
is well nigli impossible to over-water. I like 
rain-water, if procurable, but, failing this, the 
softest pond-water must be substituted; any¬ 
thing, in fact, is better than water from a well, 
for that is always cold, and appears to chill 
rather than nourish the plants. Liquid manure 
is the thing that good Grape growers rely on to 
help heavily-cropped Vines to mature their crops 
and perfect the wood and buds for another 
season- The drainage of cow-yards or stables is 
the best feeding stuff for Vines. Should this, 
however, not be available, a very good plan is 
to take a large tub, or a tank will do. in which 
to make the liquid; put in it a barrowful 
of rich manure and some Boot tied in an 
old bag or sack, then till up with water 
and keep well stirred until required for use. 
I also find the patent manure produce good 
results if applied at this time of year. I just 
loosen the surface, then sprinkle the manure 
on the soil, and wash it in with a thorough soak¬ 
ing of water to carry it down to the roots. It 
is useless giving a little and often, for the soil 
requires to be thoroughly saturated to the 
lowest roots, and while the Vines are in active 
leaf-growth they evaporate a deal of moisture on 
bright days, and unless this is made good some 
of the diseases that Vines are heir to are sure 
to appear. Therefore take precaution in time and 
use the water-pot freely.—J. Groom, Gosport. 

Figs as ornamental trees —In this 
locality the Fig thrives most luxuriantly, attain¬ 
ing the dimensions of a fair-sized tree, and a 
very ornamental one, too, as well as useful. Very 
few trees usually planted on lawns solely for 
ornament, can excel the Fig. At the present, 
time I observe the Fig trees about the coast of 
Hants, Sussex, and especially in the Isle of 
Wight, arc heavily laden with fruits that look 
like attaining a large size, the copious rains 
and growing weather suiting them well. The 
Fig thrives in almost any kind of soil, and old 
well-established trees, that make firm, short- 
jointed wood that gets well ripened, seldom 
suffer from frost like young succulent growths 
do. The Fig requires no pruning.—J. Groom, 
Hants. 

Gooseberry caterpillar. — “ E. IV’ 

must not trust too confidently to his trees 
being free from caterpillars this year because he 
has dressed them witli Elder liquor. Almost uni¬ 
versally there is an absence of eaterpillars, and 
literally tens of thousands of bushes are full of 
fruit and beautiful leafage, over which not a 
drop of Elder liquor or any other decoction has 
been strewn. It is not well hastily to draw con¬ 
clusions from premises that may seem sound but 
are absolutely fallacious.—A. I*. 


House slops — I have tried house slops as 
manure most successfully lor several years, anu 


238 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[July 28, 1883. 


find that Strawberries, Gooseberries, all the 
Cabbage tribe, Onions, Leeks, Peas, French and 
Runner Beans, and most of all, Lettuces are bene¬ 
fited by them. I save all I can from the 
“ impractical imparsimoniousness ” of my maid 
servants, and the consequence is a garden full 
of all kinds of vegetables. But I never throw 
the pail of slops out broadcast, but always in a 
gutter a foot from the roots. At the same time, 
for those who dislike trouble, a bag of guano 
and a box of soot, mixed in a paraffin tub stand¬ 
ing under the tap (only not too much guano), is 
aa admirable liquid manure. 2 ounces guano 
to a gallon is as much as most plants will bear, 
and it must be remembered that they cannot re¬ 
fuse to drink like animals with locomotive power. 
A liquid manure tank to stable, cowhouse, 
piggeries, scullery, pantry, &c., is much the best 
plan. I entirely agree with “ G. C., Eccles,” that fat 
will nourish almost any kind of plant, but we 
do not recommend pouring boiling grease on the 
leaves of Pelargoniums. Further, when the 
ground begins to smell it is a sign it has had 
enough. Let me re-echo the words of “ T. C., 
Somerset,” the waste is lamentable.— Codex 
Aleph. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


SOWING ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 

In reply to enquiries as to the proper dates on 
which to sow annuals and biennials, allow me 
to state that we should not aim at having a blaze 
of colour from a given number of plants all in 
full bloom at the same time, except for some 
special occasion. In the case of those who live 
at home the year round a succession of flowers 
is of far more importance; therefore, in select¬ 
ing annuals and biennials worthy of culture, I 
must explain that what are usually true annuals, 
viz., plants that grow up, flower, ripen seed, and 
die within the year if sown in spring, become 
biennials if sown late in autumn, and this is the 
case with the majority of plants raised from seed 
for ordinary spring bedding, of which Silene 
pendulaor Saponaria cal abrica are good examples; 
these flower profusely in April and May, and are 
cleared away in time for ordinary summer 
bedders, but let us not discard or overlook the 
beautiful plants that flower in June, July, and 
August; surely a place can be found for them, 
and for bedding plants too. The following I 
can strongly recommend, having grown them in 
large quantities for ordinary spring bedding on 
a large scale, but with even better effect in 
mixed beds or borders, where each could finish 
its full period of blooming, as it is heartless 
work to lift plants in full beauty simply because 
others are ready to take their places :— 

Alyssum maritimum is a beautiful early 
flowering, sweet-scented plant if sown in August, 
and transplanted as soon as the beds are ready 
for it; it is dwarf and good for edgings. 

Alyssum saxatile may be readily increased 
from seed ; sown in June, as soon as it is ripe, it 
makes nice plants by the autumn, and will last 
for several years ; it is one of the most beautiful 
of yellow border flowers, but comes in rather late 
for ordinary spring gardening. 

Anemones, or Windflowers, are lovely flowers, 
their colours being brilliant in the extreme. Sow 
as soon as the seed is ripe in April or May in light, 
sandy soil, and transplant to their final position 
in September. Before sowing mix some dry sand 
with the seeds to part them evenly, or they will 
hang together in bunches. Seeds of single varieties 
and alsb roots of double ones may now be bought 
very cheaply. 

Babtonia aure a, a pretty Californian yellow- 
flowered plant that grows about 1J feet high. It 
does best in light, sandy, or peaty soil; sow in 
August, or in pots in September in cold districts, 
and winter in a cold frame. 

Calandrinta 8PECIOSA and C. nmbellata, the 
former rose coloured, the latter crimBon, are very 
useful plants. They should be sown in August, 
and then they will make a fine display early in 
spring or early summer. 

Candytuft, in various colours—white, lilac, 
crimson, &c.—is one of the best and easiest grown 
of all true annuals, and being very hardy may be 
relied on to stand the winter. Sow them on rather 
poor soil in August, and transplant in Septem¬ 
ber to nursery beds f> inches apart, and plant out 
as soon as the beds or borders are clear for their 
reception. 

Google 


Clarkia pulchella and alba. —Very beau¬ 
tiful, but not very hardy annuals. Sow in the 
end of August and protect with a few evergreen 
branches in case of a severe frost. 

Collinsia bicolor (purple and white), alba, 
(pure white),and verna(blue and white),are really 
lovely annuals, growing about 1 foot high, and 
making lovely beds or masses in borders, when 1 
their spikes of softly blended colours are par¬ 
ticularly pleasing when seen in quantity. Sow in 
the end of August or early in September, either 
for transplanting or in patches where they are 
to remain, or if in severe localities sow in 3-inch 
pots and winter in cold frame, planting out in 
February. 

Erysimum 1’erofskianum (orange), and E. 
arkansanum (yellow), each about 2 feet high, 
make showy groups for shrubbery borders, being 
very distinct in colour. Sow in the middle of 
August where they are to remain, or transplant 
them from the reserve garden. 

Limnanthes Douglasi is a very pretty 
straw-coloured dwarf annual, like a Xemophila, 
but hardier. It should be sown the first week in 
September, and will flower in April and May. 

Myosotis (Forget-me-not) is too well-known 
to Deed description. The lovely M. dissitiflora 
makes a fine spring garden plant. It should be 
sown as soon as the seed is ripe in order to get 
good plants fit to flower early. Seedlings are less 
liable to go off in severe winters than old plants, 
but in dry places this Forget-me-not will stand 
many years. The common Myosotis sylvatica is 
almost an aquatic, and never does so well as 
where there is abundant moisture. 

Eschscholtzia californica (yellow), E. 
crocea (orange), and E. alba (white), are showy 
flowers, usually called Californian Poppies. They 
grow from about 1 foot to 11 feet high, and are 
readily reproduced from seed sown in July, and 
if the young plants are transplanted into nursery- 
beds 6 inches apart, they will make fine material 
for planting out in October. 

Gilia tricolor (white, lilac, and purple), G. 
alba (white), and G. rosea splendens (rose), all 
beautiful annuals, well adapted for sowing in 
the middle of August. I find it to be a good 
plan to pinch out the growing points. When 
very dwarf they are better able to stand severe 
weather than when allowed to grow undis¬ 
turbed. 

Godetias of various sorts are beautiful at 
any season, but, treated as just directed, they 
make beautiful spring and summer blooming 
plants. G. Lady Albemarle and G. The Bride 
are comparatively recent and excellent additions 
to this popular plant. 

Nemophilas are very beautiful, dwarf, and 
floriferous, and the well-known N. insignis 
still one of the best of them. Sow about the 
end of August or first week in September, 
according to locality, and transplant in October. 

Sweet Peas should be sown in the autumn 
as well as in spring, in order to get a long 
flowering period. Sow in November and shelter 
when up with Fir branches. 

Saponaria calabrica is one of the most 
beautiful of all the plants I have ever tried for 
early flowering; S. rosea, a lovely rosy pink, and 
S. alba, white, form dense carpets of tiny 
flowers. Sow in August, selecting a dry, well- 
drained position for them, and transplant in 
October. 

Silene pendula (pink), S. ruberrima (rose), 
S. pendula alba (white), and S. a. compacta 
(dwarf) are perhaps the best of all dwarf-grow¬ 
ing plants for spring flower gardening. Being 
very hardy, they scarcely ever fail. The end of 
August is soon enough to sow them, for if over¬ 
grown before winter they are liable to suffer, 
while smaller plants escape. 

Virginian Stocks, red and white, are espe¬ 
cially well adapted for edgings to beds and 
borders, being of a continuous flowering habit. 
Sow in August, where they are to remain if 
possible, or in small pots to transplant, as they 
do not like root disturbance. 

Stocks of the intermediate type in distinct 
colours are not only beautiful, but agreeably 
scented. Sown in July and August, and pricked 
out into beds 6 inches apart, they make excel¬ 
lent bed or pot plants; if placed where they 
can have the shelter of a wall they will usually 
pass safely through the winter. 

Wallflowers are frequently sown in autumn 


large enough to flower well the following season. 
The best way is to let them stand in the seed 
bed until the following BpriDg, and then plant 
them out in single lines, pinching the points 
out to induce a dwarf, bushy habit of growth. 
Thus treated, they will be full of flower buds 
when transplanted to the beds, and if the 
weather be mild will commence to flower very 
early. The sorts which I grow are Harbinger, 
dark red; and Belvoir Castle, a beautiful dwarf 
yellow. 

Whitlavia grandiflora and W. alba, 
very pretty annuals, violet and white. They 
grow about 1 foot high ; when sown in August 
and transplanted in October they form with the 
preceding a nice variety. 

The above list by no means exhausts the 
many beautiful plants that can be raised from 
seed, it merely furnishes a selection of reliable 
kinds that can be depended on for sowing at the 
coming seed time. It is a good plan to plant in 
the beds dwarf shrubs to obviate their bare 
aspect, and they also give a good deal of shelter 
to young seedlings. G. L. 


ERIGERON AUUANTIACUM. 

This new golden-flowered plant may be regarded 
as one of the best border plants introduced for 
a long time, as it supplies a new colour among 



Krigeron nurnntiacum, shoving habit ol growth. 


flowers of a similar character. It is dwarf, sel¬ 
dom being more than a foot in height, compact 
in growth, and all its parts are more or less 
hairy. It appears to be extremely floriferous, 
even small plants of it bearing numerous flowers. 
It is a native of the high mountain ranges of 
Turkestan. It is quite hardy, of as easy culture 
as the rest of the species of Krigeron, and is 
propagated readily by division or seeds. Seeds 
of itareobtainable fromMM. Vilmorin-Andrieux 
k Co., Paris. A year or so ago Messrs. Veitch 
& Sons, of Chelsea, obtained a first-class certifi¬ 
cate for it when shown at the Royal Horticultural 
Society’s meeting at South Kensington. 


Campanula nobllls var. alba — This 
is a distinct plant of dwarf habit, bearing large 
flowers of tubular shape and nearly 3 inches in 
length. They are white dotted with purple inside. 
C. pulla is also very pretty, as is a white form of 
C. rotundifolia. C. pyramidalis, both blue and 
white are now at their best. Our largest or three- 
year-old clumps are 7 feet or 8 feet in height 
bearing numerous spires of salver-shaped blos¬ 
soms.—W. B. ^ 

Late - flowering Delphiniums— Now 

when the flush of these is over it may not be out 
of place just to note one or two that form a good 
succession to them. They are Ranunculi-florutn 
Triomphe dc Pontois, and Beatsoni, double kinds’ 
These three are quite distinct in colour, and most 
useful for cutting from as well as for border 
decoration. Single blooms of them associated 
with a bitof scarlet and green make good button 
hole bouquets. Last, but not least, there is the 


w allflowers are frequently sown in autumn old Siberian Larkspur, a grand and „ 
as soon as the seed is r'pe, but they do Dot get bloomer.—C. F. continuous 


JII 


MA-CH. 



Jtri.T 28, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


239 



Hardy Geraniums — Geranium armenum 
Is, I think, one of the moat beautiful hardy plants 
which we possess. It is very vigorous, and bears 
large, deep purplish rose-coloured flowers. I have 
plants of it from 3 feet to 4 feet across which 
hare been one mass of bloom for several weeks. 
The following sorts are also very beautiful, 
although not equal to armennm, viz., Endressi, 
ibericum, pratense plenum, sanguineum, stria¬ 
tum, lancastriense, and snbcaulescens. 6. argen- 
teom and cinereum are also interesting alpine 
species, but scarcely adapted for the open border. 
They do best on the rockery.—J. W. 

Tree Pseonies or Moutans.— Nothing 
can possibly be grander than bushes of these 
Peonies, either grown as single specimens or 
planted in groups; and, varying as they do in 
foliage where a well-selected collection is got to¬ 
gether. bushes, even when not in flower, are 
attractive in early spring and late in the autumn. 
They make fine plants for the backs of wide 
herbaceous borders, planted at intervals with 
flowering shrubs, and they are equally suitable 
daring the summer months for planting in mixed 
shrubberies, where, when in flower, they have a 
fine effect. Planted as single specimens upon 
lawns they also look well, as they can there be 
seen to full advantage when in flower; besides, 
they ripen their wood better than elsewhere, 
having the advantage of the full rays of the sun. 
When fully matured, they produce plenty of 
their large showy flowers, df which they are 
often deficient in shady positions. Being per¬ 
fectly hardy, they will withstand severe frost. 
Plants of them suffered but lit tle even during the 
severe winters of 1880 and 1881, and flowered as 
freely as usual the following spring. We had a 
fine plant a few weeks ago, on which there were 
130 blooms, all open at one time, its large double 
light rose-coloured flowers producing a fine 
effect. The single flowering varieties last but a 
very short time compared with the time during 
which the double-flowering sorts last after 
opening. The soil in whioh I find they grow 
strongest and flower best is a mixture of good 
turfy loam and peat in equal portions, to which 
is added a little rotten manure, to give them a 
good start. There are many different varieties, 
some of which possess most striking oolours, and 
will be found useful in a cut state for filling 
large vases, or the flowers may be used with good 
effect singly in specimen glasses on the dinner 
table.—W. C. 

Small flower beds. — Most gardening 
books published up to the present time abound 
with miserable patterns of beds—small, compli¬ 
cated, and “ cornered." Naturally, people seeing 
such things in books feel justified in "carrying 
them oat," but it is mostly with a dismal effect. 
The tron ble of keeping them in order is great, 
and what they produce is often almost nil. They 
are generally so small and so " finniking," that 
one can neither trench nor dig, nor attend to 
them with any convenience. Apart from this, 
there is no effect worth speaking of to be got 
out of the small bed. The only case in which 
they are tolerable is when they occur at the base 
of standard Roses, and even then they have a 
poor and dotty effect, and would in most cases 
be better abolished. Great numbers of small 
reds break up the surface of the lawn or flower 
rarden to a needless degree, creating a number 
uf points which vex the eye without satisfying 
i», and waste labour without any good result. 
The true w xy is to turf up such beds and to form 
large ones, circnlar or oval, thoroughly well 
prepared, in positions where they will not mar 
■he breadth or beauty of the lawn or turfed part 
of the garden, and mostly one bed or a group in 
a place. These should be quite cut off from tree 
root* near by a deep trench where that is 
necessary. In such beds it would be possible to 
ret a really good result with anything we have 
to deal with, from Clove Carnations to Roses or 
Lilies and Irises mixed, this being a charming 
ombination for a large oval bed in a quiet 
Timer.— V. 

Removing dead flowers and eeed 

30 < 1 b—I t is not only on the score of tidiness 
»cd the improved aspect imparted to a flower 
warden that withered or decaying blossoms 
hoald be removed from the plants, but the 
jealt.h and vigour of the plants, and their ability 
produce a continued succession of fresh 
ijwent, is preserved by the operation, as in many 
- the gayest flowers that are reproduced from 
sed. directly the flowe/1b?gjns to withkr, $he 

'r)i5itiis:]ty\ J oo5Tc 


seed-pods begin to swell up, and so rapidly do 
they absorb the strength of the plant, that the 
later flowers refuse to open, and the display is 
brought to a brief termination. But remove the 
seed-pods, and the plant will quickly recover, 
and go on flowering again as freely as before. I 
may mention Sweet Peas, Canterbury Bells, and 
Antirrhinums as well-known plants to ex¬ 
periment on. Try a few plants, and note the 
result of removing or leaving the seed pods to 
mature, and you will soon find that you cannot 
get the same plant to go on flower prodneing 
and seed prodneing at the same time. Therefore 
if you value the appearance of your garden, let 
the seed producing go, unless it be of some extra 
good variety you wish to perpetuate. I fre¬ 
quently stop to note two neighbouring gardens, 
both situated and treat ed alike in every respect, 
except that in one the dead flowers and seed- 
pods are carefully removed daily, in the other 
they are left to take care of themselves; the 
result of this simple attention makes all the 
difference between a lengthened and a brief 
display.—J. Gkoou, Hantt. 


A new hardy plant, Krigeron nurantiaeum. 


Double Pyrethrums.— These are among 
the most valuable of hardy perennials, and ex¬ 
ceedingly showy during May and June, a time 
when they do more to make herbaceous borders 
gay than any other plants with which I am ac¬ 
quainted. They push up numerous heads of 
Chrysanthemum-like blooms, that last a long 
time in perfection. A few years ago these fine 
double Pyrethrums were quite unknown, but 
now there are nnmerous varieties of them, 
embracing nearly every Bhade of colour, from 
the purest of whites to the deepest of crimsons. 
As there are so many that are good, it seems 
almost invidious to name any specially; but 
where only a few are wanted, the following will 
be found distinct and deserving a place even in 
the smallest of gardens, viz,: Candidum plenum, 
Boule de Neige, Brilliant, Coqueterle, Fulgens 
plenissimum, Herman Stenger, Haageet Schmidt, 
Mdme. Billiard, Michael Buckner, Ne Plus Ultra, 
Penelope, Paul Rouge, and Prince of Wales. This 
list might be greatly extended without taking in 
half of the fine sorts there are, and those having 
plenty of border room would do well to add at 
least another dozen. As they are low-growini 
plants, they should be placed in the 


of others ; and, being very fond of moisture, it 
is necessary for them to have deep soil, in which 
they can send their roots well down and be in¬ 
dependent of the weather. The time to plant is 
early in spring. The way to increase doable 
Pyrethrums is by division, which should be 
carried out just as they begin to grow, and then 
there is no fear of losing them, as they make 
fresh roots quickly and the cut parts heal rapidly 
over. Double Pyrethrums may also be raised 
from seed; but, unfortunately, few raised by 
that method come equal to even the poorest of 
the named kinds, and the greater part will be 
single. Although these may not be cared for to 
plant in borders, they are very desirable for 
growing in semi-wild places, such as by wood¬ 
land walks or in front of shrubs, or to naturalise 
among grass around trees on large lawns, where, 
with Columbines, &c., they flourish well and look 
quite at home.—8. D. 

Flowers on lawns.— Most people dislike 
unmown lawns, bnt it becomes a question 
whether a closely shaven Grass plat is always 
the best and most pleasant to look on. If we 
are to have wild gardens 
and numbers of hardy 
plants naturalised, as it 
were, there is no position 
in a garden where many 
of them do so well or 
look so much at home 
as on lawns, the emerald 
green of which Bets them 
off to advantage. Take 
Daffodils, for instance. 
What more pleasing sight 
is there than to look 
upon them in a meadow 
blended with the nume¬ 
rous kinds of Grasses as 
they run up to seed; 
mauy of the latter, too, 
being highly ornamental 
in their various stages 
of development, and light 
and feathery at all times. 
Instead of cutting all 
the Grass where there 
are large breadths of 
lawn, I am of opinion 
that it would be bet¬ 
ter to leave portions 
round trees as belts and 
other irregular patches 
in the open — all such 
spaces to be devoted 
to the culture of such 
things as Snowdrops, 
Squills, Bluebells, Prim¬ 
roses, Daffodils, Lilies, 
Funkias, Columbines, For¬ 
get-me-nots, and simi¬ 
lar hardy plants that are 
sufficiently strong to hold 
their own among the 
Grass and take care 
of themselves. A plea¬ 
sure ground would then 
be deserving of the came, 
as it would be so in 
reality; at every step 
there would be something 
fresh to see and to arrest attention, and espccialy 
daring spring and the early summer months. 
To afford facilities for visitors to enjoy them, 
glades having graceful and easy curves might be 
cut in the Grass and kept quite short by the 
mowing machine for paths. Near gravel walks 
there should be broad margins of closely-cut 
turf alODg each side, and the Grass should be 
left long beyond, but gravel is only needed for 
the main walks for use in the wettest and worst 
weather. A lawn so arranged and kept would 
entail far less labour, and give an opportunity 
of growing hosts of plants of great beauty that 
are now seldom seen. Groups of them might be 
formed in sun or shade, according to the require¬ 
ments of the different species.— 8. 

Convolvulus minor In baskets and 
beds. —Amongst annuals this is one of the very' 
best for producing a striking effect in rustic 
boxes or baskets, or even in mixed beds and 
borders, for it is of a lovely shade of blue, and 
the flowers rising up well above the ordinary 
occupants of such arrangements, lend a charm 
not readily obtained from any other flower. I 
would advise anyone not having yet tried this 
plant to maks a note of it for the next season. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 








240 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[July 28, 1883. 


It is refreshing to break away from stereotyped 
mixtures and go in for new combinations, and I 
feel sure that this pretty plant will give satis¬ 
faction to anyone giving it a fair trial.—J. G., 
Hants. 

Grenadin Carnation —Seeing a note in 
Gardening respecting Mrs. Sinkin Pink, I beg 
to send a few blooms of Carnation Grenadin, 
which I think would be a fitting companion to 
it for early blooming and forcing. It is a very 
free and early bloomer.—A. E. J. [The blooms 
were of a very brilliant scarlet, and handsome 
in form.—E d.] 

To destroy fungus In Dahlias.—Carbolic add 
Is an unfailing remedy for the fungus that attacks the 
heart and tender leaves of the Dahlia often to the de¬ 
struction of the plants. I use carbolic soap, and one 
application almost invariably suffices.—L. C. K. 

Campanula pull a. — How lovely this Is where 
spread into a bold tuft. We know one now about 3 feet 
through, not a close mass, but mode up of groups, 
the whole being canopied with the richest purple bells. 
It Is fully exposed in sandy soil, there being nothing near 
to overrun it. 

Lavender.—How good the colour of this is now 
where a few bushes or groups of it are seen. A border 
wc know has these only now in flower and a few Helio¬ 
tropes, and the effect is as good as it is quiet. 

Everlasting Pens. — The white and the deep 
coloured forms of tho old Everlasting Pea are among the 
finest things in the garden now, and also good in water. 


WASTE IN MANURING. 

I have read with interest the correspondence in 
Gardening on this subject. The economical 
management of manure is a matter of great 
importance, and we cannot become too well 
acquainted with it. Much yet remains to be 
known before agricultural chemistry is an exact 
science, and theory is made in every instance to 
accord with observed fact. As “ A.” says, the 
reason sheds for the protection of manure are 
advocated is to prevent washing by the rains. 
Manure brought fresh from the stables is in a 
moist state, and it retains its moisture much 
longer in the close atmosphere of the shed than 
it would do if placed in the open air and exposed 
to the rays of the sun. Of course, under such 
circumstances, fermentation to a certain extent 
must take place. In the Guano Islands it never 
rains, therefore moisture—an essential condition 
of fermentation—is absent, but in our climate it 
is seldom that we see manure lie long on the 
land in a dry state, especially in winter. The 
most economical way to uso green manure is 
to dig it in when fresh, it is soon rotten, and 
all the products of fermentation are saved. 

Much extravagance exists in the manage¬ 
ment of manures. Some allow fowl manure and 
night soil to lie in heaps till it has lost its most 
valuable fertilising qualities. They seem to 
forget that if manure is powerful it can he 
applied in small quantities, like soot or guano. 
Although advocated by good practical men, I 
have always looked upon the mixing of lime 
with soot as a top-dressing as a wasteful pro¬ 
cess. Except it be done during heavy rain, the 
ammonia liberated by the lime must escape into 
the atmosphere and be lost to the cultivator. I 
also consider it a bad practice to mix lime and 
soot together when used to destroy slugs, the 
lime and the soot, by displacement, reacting on 
each other, the ammoniacal salts being decom¬ 
posed by the lime, the latter forming calcium 
compounds with their acids, thereby losing its 
active caustic properties. I can understand 
lime being mixed with soot when used as a liquid 
manure, as water is capable of holding in solu¬ 
tion many hundred times its volume of ammonia. 
It is the practice of some people to allow 
manure to accumulate the whole of the summer 
to be washed by the autumnal rains, and by the 
time it is carried on the frozen land, perhaps 
after Christmas, a large proportion of its manu- 
rial properties are lost. 

I think we cannot find fault with “ D's.” re¬ 
marks on allowing the manure to lie about ex¬ 
posed when it can be utilised in a fresh state. 
Manure lying about for six months unused 
(putting aside considerations of waste) is like 
capital unemployed. Our plan is about twice a 
week to put together into one heap the manure 
fresh from the stable, with weeds, old flower 
stalks, and other vegetable rubbish, moistening 
it as we proceed as one would if preparing for a 
hotbed. Wc make the heap small at the ba6e 
ill proportion to its height, with a sloping top to 
run off the rain, if the weeds are seedy we do 
not turn the heap till 
fo destroy the vitality 



Becond or third day. Whilst turning the heap 
we moisten again if required. In about a week 
it will be fit for use. Although this plan has its 
drawbacks, I think we can accord to it the 
following advantages: It minimises waste from 
washing. It reduces the manure to a state from 
which the crops can derive immediate benefit. 
If dug in, it adds moisture to instead of abstract¬ 
ing it from the soil, as it does when dug into the 
land in a dry state. If used as a mulch, its 
appearance is not nearly so disagreeable as when 
applied in a dry, littery state, and if watered as 
soon as put on the land it gives at once a pro¬ 
portion of its nutritive constituents to the 
growing crops. L. C. K. 


How aphides breed.— Your corespondent, 
“ J. C. 13. ”(9802), has fallen into a very common 
error when he writes of “ the young ones 
(aphides) which are continually hatching from 
the eggs deposited on the growing shoots,” for it 
is well known that aphides are viviparous, and 
bring forth their youDg alive. As many seem to 
be in error as to the true nature of these little 
pests, readers of Gardening may be glad of a 
few facts concerning them. The femile, at the 
close of the summer months, deposits these so- 
called eggs, but which are simply a warm case 
to protect the aphis from the severity of the 
weather without, and for the furtherance of this 
object the female of the A. lavigera covers each 
case with down from her own body. The im¬ 
pregnated is generally deposited in the axils of 
the leaves of the plants infested. The returning 
warmth of spring brings forth from latent life a 
wingless hexapod larva, which, under favour¬ 
able circumstances, produces a succession of 
broods of eight larvae similar to itself without 
any connection with the male, winged males 
at this time not existing, and are even in their 
proper season rare. The young may, by aid of 
the microscope, be seen within the parent body 
within a few hours of its age, and appears to 
be produced by an internal process of budding. 
This virgin progeny may be continually increased, 
even until the eleventh generation, and seldom 
before then is the spermatic virtue of the ances¬ 
tral coitus exhausted. In this manner the in¬ 
crease of aphides, if unchecked, would be some¬ 
thing past ail comprehension—in fact, very 
shortly there would be room for nothing else in 
the world. Some idea of the rapidity with which 
they multiply may be gained from the fact that 
at the tenth generation one ouinlillion 
(1.000,000,000,000,000,000) would be the result. 
The larva aphides hardly stir from that portion 
of the plant from which they snek its nourishing 
juices, aiding the flow of their food like gnats 
upon the human body b}* injecting a fluid pre¬ 
sumably poisonous. As I remarked in this 
journal of July 7 (page 204), ladybirds are one 
of their greatest enemies, and may be safely and 
advantageously introduced into the greenhouse. 
Ants, too, destroy them in large quantities. Not 
content with the juice they entice them to 
exude naturally, they frequently, in a most un¬ 
ceremonious manner, tap the body of the poor 
aphis and gorge to their hearts content upon 
the sweet nectar that the body of their victim 
contains.— H. Moulton. 

Loose gravel on walks.— Where there is 
loose gravel or shingle lying about on the surface 
of walks it is evident that the material is not a 
binding one, and that if the shingle be swept off, 
the evil will soon become as bad as ever. The 
best remedy would be pouring over the surface 
some boiled tar, but then the colour might prove 
objectionable. The next best thing, therefore, 
will be to get in the winter some very finely 
screened sandy clay—rather more of clay than 
sand. Spread it thinly over the surface, and 
apply the roller during a heavy rain, so that the 
material may become not only like mortar, but 
will not adhere to the roller. If not done during 
rain, then the watering-pot should be freely used. 
Whenever the gravel is by rolling worked into a 
soft mortar-like condition, and is so left to get 
solid and dry, a firm, hard path is almost invari¬ 
ably the result.— D. 


Flowers for sketching.— We shall he 
glad if our readers rtill send ns from time to time 
specimens of any unusually good or rare flowers,for 
figuring. In all cases the flowers should ho sent 
with fairly long stalks, and where possible with 
foliage also. Views of picturesque gardens would 
also be welcome. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

10005. —Tortoises and toads v. slugs 
and snails —In answer to above query, it is a 
popular error to suppose that tortoises eat slugs 
&c. They never or very rarely eat animal food, 
but live on vegetable food entirely. Toads eat 
insects, but not snails or slugs. I recommend 
“ J. P.” to keep a hedgehog. I have kept two in my 
garden for six months with great success, and 
have not seen above half a dozen slugs this year 
and no snails. I should say, however, that mine 
is a town garden, and surrounded on all sides 
with walls, so that once all slugs and snails are 
exterminated, I get very few fresh ones.—H. 
H. M. Smke. 

-I should suggest trying a hedgehog, as 

although toads are well known as being slug and 
snail destroyers, many people object to them, 
whereas the former may possibly be a source of 
interest besides being efficacious.—W. F. R. 

10013.—Fowls* manure.—This being similar to 
guano, it Increases the growth and vigour of plants. It 
must, however, be used with caution, viz., largely diluted 
with water, and not in the fresh state. It should be, 
say about six months old The best plan is to mix it with 
cow or sheep manure and soot, and use it regularly. 1 
use it in this way for all flowers, &c.- W. F. 11. 

10004—Slugs eating Strawberries.—Obtain a 
paraffin barrel with a small quantity of the oil left in it. 
Kuock out the head, fill with water, and leave for a day 
or so. Stir when used. There should then be quite enough 
of the smell of the paraffin left to keep away the slugs.— 
W. F. R. 

9998.—Nitrate of soda and Lettuces —Nitrate 
of soda (otherwise Chili saltpetre or cubic nitre) may bo 
given in solution with great benefit to Lettuces in tho 
proportion of one pound to twelve gallons of water, and, 
besides being a fertiliser is a destroyer of slugs.—W. F. R 

9989.—Wireworms.—Having caught the wireworms 
(sometimes a difficult matter), destroy them by immersing 
them either in boiling water or in salt and water.— 
W. F. R. 

9986. —Cucumbers not growin g. —This, probably, 
is due to the making up of the bed, insufficient watering 
and lack of stimulation in the way of manuie, bad 
drainage, and too much air.—W. F. R. 


Show Pansy.— if id lands — From any good seeds¬ 
man or nurseryman who makes a specialty of ramies. 
See our advertisement columns. 

Window Gardener.—Vie believe the apparatus men¬ 
tioned to be a good one.-C. S. E — Vie are unable 

to answer your question.- Surrey — There is no such 

book.- W. P.—Vie know of no such office. Some of 

the London nurserymen might help you.- Done Brown. 

—It is our wish that all who advertise in our paper shall 
be honest dealers, and we use every possible effort to 
attain this end, and up to the present we have no good 
reason to believe that any but honest advertisers nave 
been admitted. We have, it is true, had at various times 
complaints similar to those you make, but invariably 
all letters containing such charges, like your own, bear 
neither name or address of either tho advertiser who ia 
charged with swindling, or tho purchaser who complains 
of being “done brown.” 

Names of fruits .—Purple King .—We do not name 
varieties of Strawberries unless several specimens are 

sent in good condition.- Enquirer .—Small, but of good 

flavour. 

Names of plants.—A. F. C. —1, Acer Negundo 
variegatum ; 2, cannot name without flowers ; 3, Euony- 
mus japonicus 1 variegatus; 4, Diplacua gluttnosus; 6, 

Veronica saliclfolia.-Jf. S.— Species of Slsyrinchium. 

- J. W. T .—Iris Xiphium sordida, commonly called 

Thunberbolt Iris.- Gladiolus. — Cannot name lrom 

such a scrap.- Burton.— Cannot tell exactly ; probably 

isaWillow.- K.M O.— Galega officinalis.- Stamen.— 

Alpine Sea Holly, Eryngium alpimim.- A. E. D .—Rhus 

Cotinus.- J. B. B— 1, Fuchsia globosa; 2, Santolina 

incana.-1, Iiemerocallis fulva ; 2, Cam¬ 

panula pusillo alba; 3. Centaurea montana ; Pea-shaped 

flower is Galega officinalis- Busy B. —1, Lysimochia 

vulgaris (yellow); 2, Hierocium aurantiacum (red).- 

Gamma. —1, Centaurea montana ; 2, Funkia subcordata ; 

3, Kolosanthes coccinea; 4, Adiantum formosum.- 

G. F. if.—The Begonias cannot possibly be named 

correctly by single leaves only.- H. M. S.— Fern is 

Ceterach offleinarum; other scraps cannot be named. 
- Greenhorn .—A common weed, species of Solanum. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents .—A U communica 
Hons for insertion should he clearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. 
Letters relating to business to the Publisher. The name 
and address of the sender is required, in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each Mould 
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 


plants will thrive best in gardens at Palace Green K 
sington ? Would Wallflowers,Sweet Williams, Carnatic 
Cnnterbuiy Bells, Pyretbrunis, and Polyanthuses 
likely to answer and would autumn or spring nlnntinc 
preferable? In the garden I have in view the soU 


n 

c 


**: 




il 

k> 



Jilt 28, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


241 


t«en lately made, and la a stiff loam. Plenty of sunshine 
everywhere, and the walls face the south and east. 
YVooldGloirede Dijon Roses grow satisfactorily on these ? 
If oot, what Roses would do best, and what would be 
tlubest time for planting ?— Kensington. 

1M5I.—Fruit trees not bearing.—Twelve years 
seol planted in my garden at Handsworth one Pear, 
one Cherry, and two Plum trees. They have grown fairly 
well, ind each year have bloomed, but have not pro¬ 
duced a single fruit. The Pear tree is now in full bloom 
thesecond time tills year ; it has bloomed twice for the 
list three years All my other trees, bushes, &e., have 
done welL I should be grateful for information in¬ 
fracting me how to bring them into bearing. I should 
hare ent them down long ago but that they are orna¬ 
mental.—C. F. 

1C051—Bouvardiaa and Abutllons.— I have been 
told that Bouvardiaa are os hardy aa Fuschias, and may 
be kept in a south window throughout the winter. Is 
this so, or is the protection and heat of a greenhouse 
absolutely necessary? Any Information on tneir treat¬ 
ment will be welcomed. I once succeeded In flowering 
Abotilon marmoratum in south window, but have failed 
from some unknown cause of late years. Apparently the 
plants are becoming old, and only throw up thin spindly 
shoots. Shall 1 be more successful with the new flower¬ 
ing kinds ?— Kent. 

10063.—Rank-growing Strawberries.—>vm any 
reader inform me why my Strawberries grow so much 
leaf it the expense of fruit ? I plant 2i feet apart row 
from row, and 1J feet plant from plant in the rows. This 
K the second year, and the bed is a complete masB of 
foliag’. The land is lightish, but not rich, as two years 
a?. I had a crop of Potatoes off it. I planted the Straw- 
berry runners the same year, and nave given it no manure 
since. I grow four kinds, and all are rank and thick alike. 
All runners are taken off as soon as made.—W. B. 


10GM.—Agapanthus umbellatus —What is the 
proper treatment of Agapanthus umbellatus? Should the 
bulbs be taken up and divided each year ? Last summer 
I had a great many spikes of bloom. In January the 
whole border was dug up, as the wall fruit trees needed 
root pruning. Then came five weeks of incessant rain, 
aad they were allowed to be out on the earth till the 
ground was dry enough. This year I had only two spikes 
of flower.—M bs. R., Bridport. 

10065.—Double Foxgloves.—I have possessed for 
several years specimens of Gloxinia-flowered Foxgloves, 
haring the apex flower double. In some of the plants 
there have been generally two or three others of a beautiful 
tabular form next to the double flower. I have inquired 
of many seedsmen if they were aware of such varieties, 
bat have always been informed that such were unknown 
to them. I should be glad to know if it is a new or old 
variety.—J. C. 

1(056.—Violets.—I have a gTeat quantity of Violet 
phots in a large,neglected garden. I had very few flowers 
last autumn, and those were not good. Now, on looking 
over the plants I And a few cleistogamoua flowers, and a 
great quantity of fruit in various Btages. How can I 
remedy this ? There aro plenty of seedling plants. Will 
they do to plant out, or must I have runners or may I 
ww seeds? I have plenty. - -Mrs. R., Bridport. 

ia:57.—Marecbal Niel Rose not flowering.— 
I hare a Marcehal Niel Rose growing in ray conservatory, 
which is only heated enough to keep out frost The Rose 
tv been planted about two years, with its roots outside 
t tt boase. It has made some Hue shoots, but has made 
do attempt to flower. Can any reader tell me the reason 
of thU. and suggest a way by which I can get it to bloom ? 
—£ H. 

iou5b.—Dark coloured Roses.—I want to plant 
m tbe proper season about a dozen of the best dark 
/loses, and should be glad if any reader would give me 
U» names of the darkest crimsons and maroons that will 
? *xrish with good treatment in south-west Lancashire. 
They will be subject to the north and north-east winds. 
-A Lover of Roses. 

10059 —Celery falling.—Last year niv Celery was a 
frilore. Soon after being trenched out the leaves began 
to wither os if scorched, and though there was a certain 
naocnk of growth the plants were small and scarcely 
rth sending to tabic. This year the plants again pre- 
wni the same appearance. Can any reader suggest the 
:suse and remedy?—J. B. 

IOO6O1— Clay soil.—What is the best to do with my 
zxrden, the soil of which is clay, and very cold and stiff? 
t: i% situated on the summit of a hill, and is very bleak. 
B yw may I Improve it at as littlo expense as possible, 
rad what kind of Potatoes would be best to grow in it, 
i*d fruit trees ; also what kind of Greens would do best, 
*c. ?—A Qckrie. 


1006i.—Pan9los. Chrysanthemums, Ac—Can 
-.rjwnthemuni8, Dahli.us, and Pansies be preserved by 
p*t'ro g them and keeping them through the winter in a 
- 4,1 frame, or might they be left outside without any 
anger of frost killing them ? Mlno are young plants, 
utl I am not particular as to their flowering through the 
raj ter ?— Faksy. 


1 —Tea Roses for winter.—Which are the 

Tea Roses for supplyiug cut flowers in whiter ? They 
i_’l planted against the back wall facing south of a 
^n-to greenhouse. How many would there be room for 
ci rjt ’the wall, and what tender bulbs could be 
—,wn in the same border without injuring the Rose 
?—Erima. 

10063 —Propagating Alyasums.— What is the 
•fht mode of propagating Alyssura saxatile? Will the 
•4ds which have all fallen be sufficient, or had I better 
in catlings and when, or shall I leave the old plants 
the ground? They look very ragged and untidy.—M rs. 

I, Bndjxrrf. 

ycjQl _ Pea sticks —Ordinary Pea sticks being hero 

irv expensive, I am using galvanised-wire netting to 
'port my Peas, and as a support it answers admirably, 
-s at night it is very cold, being in that respeot unlike 
which are non-conducting. Will this affect the 
hsin any way?—E- H- H* 

_plants fjr rockery. Would someone 

Osmi me what to plant in >™*ery 24 feet hsigby 

wide, facing tho soutli-e. **’“ " " 


u yro^kery 24 feet lepigby 
e^Vwxd^sy) to; 


ings, with a full share of sun ? Something that will look 
well in winter as well as summer, in the shape of Ferns, 
Mosses, <fcc., preferred.—H. A. M. 

10066.—Hot-water apparatus —Can anyone re¬ 
commend me a hot-water apparatus for a lcan-to house 
15 feet by 9 feet, with a boiler to burn 14 hours without 
attention, and also tell me how the pipes can be laid so 
as not to interfere with Roses planted out against the 
back wall ?— Erema. 

10067.—Moving Roses and Dahlias.—I am going 
to move to a house a few miles from where I now live 
next September. Will that be too early to move standard, 
dwarf, and climbing Roses, and should they be cut back 
first. They are very straggling; also, could Dahlias be 
moved then ?— Erema. 

10068.—Tuberoses and Bnigmanslas — I have 
a pearl Tuberose as a window plant; it was planted in 
April. How must I treat it to get it to flower? It is six 
years since my white Brugmansia flowered. Can anyone 
say how it should be treated to induce it to flower agaiu ? 
—A Lover of Flowers. 

10069.—Treatment of Figs.—Will some reader 
kindly inform me what is the proper treatment for Fig 
trees, the time and manner of pruning, &o. Any Infor¬ 
mation from an experienced person will be gratefully 
received.—R. K., Lee. 

10070.— Rose unhealthy. — I have a Louis Van 
Houtte Rose in my garden, and it never has been very 
healthy. It has only one bloom on it this season. Will 
someone kindly say if I can lift it and put in a pot in 
the greenhouse, also the beat time for removal ?—G. T. 

10071.—Cactus losing its leaves.—I shall be glad 
if some reader will kindly tell me the cause of the bottom 
leaves of my Cactus dying off. W r hat treatment does it 
require? It is in my sitting-room window. Can 1 take 
cuttings, and wheu ?—Cactus. 

10072.—Solanum aculeatissimum.—I have re¬ 
ceived seeds of the above-mentioned pluut from Australia, 
which have germinated freely. As I cannot find such a 
plant in any catalogue, I should be glad to know what 
treatment the seedlings require.—M L. 

10073.—Double Primulas.—Hints as to the props 
cation of double Primroses will be gratefully received. I 
And mine with the roots out of the soil, and small white 
worms amongst them. Is lime of any use to destroy 
the worms?—J. N. 

10074.—Yellow Carnations.— Can auy of your 
correspondents tell mo of a hardy yellow Carnation or 
Pieotee for out loor culture ? A free bloomer required Is 
there such a tiling as a yellow or sulphur Pink ?— 
Fitchkt. 

10075.—Preserving wild flowers.—I shall be 
very glad if any reader could tell me how to preserve 
wild flowers so as to retain their natural colour.— 
Dus mara. 

10076.—Fucb6la buds falling off—Would someone 
kindly give me a remedy for preventing my Fuchsias 
casting their buds, also Geranium blossoms from turning 
black?—J. G. D. 

10077.—Best plants for windows.—Will someone 
kindly inform me which are the best plants for window 
ornament, and what the most suitable soil for them 7— 
J. G. D. 

10078.—Pelargoniums and Geraniums — Will 
someone explain the distinction between Pelargoniums 
and Geraniums ; also what constitutes a fancy Geranium? 
—H. W. 

10079.—Mildew on Rose trees.—Can gome practi¬ 
cal Rose grower tell me the cause of mildew* on standard 
Rose trees, and suggest a plan for destroying it ?— 
W. H. E. 

10080. - Tropeeolum speciosum. — A friend has 
given me, in a pot, a young plant of above. As he knows 
nothing of its treatment, can any reader inform as to its 
culture?— Xkrxks. 

1C031.—Disinfectant for manure-water.—What 
is the best disinfectant for a liquid manure tub ? It must 
be something that will not injure plant life or deteriorate 
the liquid manure.—E. H. H. 

10082.—Marechal Niel Rose.—Should a Mardchal 
Niel Rose be planted outside and Rrown under glass, or 
may it be planted outside altogether ; and what is the 
best treatment to give it?—P. 8. P. 

10083 —Seeds of hardy bulbs.—Will someone tell 
me how to treat the seeds of hardy hnlbs, Fritillurias 
especially, aud how long it will take to make flowering 
bulbs?— Hardy Bulb. 

10084.—Plants for rockery. — Would someone 
kindly give names of plants suitable fora rockery?— 
Enquirer. 

10085 —Flowering Currant —I would l>c glad to 
learn if the fruit of the flowering Currant may bo used in 
the same way as that of the ordinary Currant. —J. C. 

10086.—Packing flowers.—I should be very glad of 
any hints and instructions as to the best way of packing 
flowers for transmission by post.—A. H. C. 

10087.—Rose buds falling off—Can anyono ex¬ 
plain cati!*e and cure for bloom-buds of my Rose trees 
failing off ?—M. R. C. 8. 


BEES. 


MISPLACED COMBS, &c. 

I have had a couple of bar-framed hives made, 
but find the bees in one have built the comb 
zig-zag and across the bars, not one bar straight; 
what had I better do? Can I get them into 
another hive, or cut the combs ? I notice the 
bars run across the hive the same way as the 
entrance—is this correct, or should they bo the 
other way, that is from front to back of hive 7 
What plan would be best for supering ? Do the 
bees object to any particular colour of dress ? I 
opened the hives a day . or two since, and now 
find thoy are very troublesome to passers by. 


They have stung several members of my family, 
but, before, we could all watch them by the hour 
without the slightest molestation. I should be 
glad to know what is the best antidote of stings. 
—Amateur. 

[Probably the reason of the bees having built 
their combs across the bars is that no guide- 
comb or comb-foundation was provided. A strip 
of comb-foundation about 2 inches wide should 
have been fixed to the underside of the top bar 
of each frame, as a guide to the bees to work 
out their combs in a perpendicular line. Comb- 
foundation consists of sheets of wax containing 
the impression of the bars of the cells, there 
being sufficient wax in the projecting walls to 
enable the bees to completely lengthen out the 
cells. Sometimes the frames are filled with 
foundation, by which a great saving of time and 
labour to the bees is effected. Combs are almost 
certain to be built across the frames if no kind 
of guide is provided. In order to put matters 
right, “Amateur" had better smoke the bees, 
lift out the bars, brush off as many bees as possible 
back into the hive, then cut out the cross combs 
from the bars, next place a piece of flannel or 
other soft material on a board or table, upon 
which place a sheet of comb, over this put an 
empty frame, and so cut the comb that it will 
fit pretty firmlj T into the frame, keeping the 
comb in the same position as when originally 
built—top side uppermost—then tie two pieces 
of tape round the frame to hold the comb in its 
place, and return it to the hive, and thus pro¬ 
ceed till all the combs are used. Any pieces of 
comb that are not large enough to fill a frame 
may be fixed by placing a lath beneath it, and 
passing a third tape under the lath. All the 
combs containing brood should be placed together 
in the centre of the hive. It will be wise to wear 
a veil during this operation, and keep the smoker 
burning ready for use in the event of the 
bees becoming angry. In many respects it is 
advantageous to have the frames running 
across the hive. Any number of frames can be 
appropriated to the bees next the entrance, and be 
enclosed by a division board at the rear. The 
frames can be added to or reduced at the will 
of the bee-keeper, and when sections for surplus 
honey are placed in the hive, a frame of queen- 
excluder zinc takes the place of the division 
board, the latter being then placed at the back 
of the sections. The obtaining surplus honey 
in sections in tbe body of the hive has some 
special advantages, as it permits the store de¬ 
partment to be made of any desired capacity, 
and the sections are taken to by the bees and 
filled with greater promptitude than when 
placed on the top of the hive. Bees, probably, 
do not object to any particular colour of dress, 
although they will sometimes show their dislike 
to a black hat by flying violently against it in 
a most threatening manner, causing the wearer 
thereof to beat a hasty retreat. Bees have 
been unusually savage this scavSon, owing 
chiefly, no doubt, to the heat of the 
weather, beiDg always more dangerous to 
approach in hot, sultry weather. Once excited 
to anger, bees are some time before they forget 
and forgive the offender. Care should, therefore, 
be taken to use gentleness in all operations; even 
a quick motion of the hands in manipulating, or 
the jarring of the combs, will excite them to 
anger. When stung, the sting should be removed 
as quickly as possible, as the poison continues 
to be ejected from the sting after the bee has 
parted with it. As to remedies, carbolic acid, 
ammonia, Tobacco juice, and common whiting 
are all good in their way, but so much depends 
upon the constitution of the sufferer; still, there 
is always the happy consolation in knowing that 
the more one is stung the less is the effect, so 
that finally neither swelling nor irritation ensues. 
S. 8. G , Bonvortk .] 


POULTRY. 

Chicken. — M. G .—The cockerels are much 
better separated from the pullets after the age 
of three months for the well-being of both 
parties, and if the former are intended for the 
table, it will make a deal of difference in the 
quality and tenderness of the flesh. The pullets 
likewise thrive better when not worried by the 
cockerels, and are enabled to g^t their proper 
quantity of food. All your Houdans which 
have not five well-formed toes are uselees from 
a fancy point of view, but. you would very likely 
be able to sell faulty cockerels to neighbouring 



242 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[July 28, 1883. 


farmers, as they would do well enough for them, 
and are a capital cross for the farmyard. The 
white fowls you mention are not White Spanish, 
but White Minorcas. We do not consider these 
such good birds as the Black Minorcas, and if 
your run is at all muddy, you will find they 
quickly get dirty. Skim milk boiled with maize 
or barley meal is capital feeding for any growing 
stock. When cold, work as much dry meal into 
it as will make a good stiff paste, easily broken. 
In winter give it them hot, seasoned with a little 
pepper or Thorley’s spice. The best food for a 
fowl after a long journey by rail is bread soaked 
in ale or beer— Andalusian. 

Food for ten fowls.— G. G — It is im¬ 
possible to la} r down a hard and fast rule as to 
the exact quantity of food required by a certain 
number of fowls. Their appetite varies like 
that of any other animal. For instance, a hen 
will and ought to eat more when laying than 
when not laying, and likewise when moulting, 
when the system is called upon to supply some¬ 
thing out of the ordinary. The right quantity 
to be thrown to fowls is what they will pick up 
eagerly and no more. By a little observation 
the quantity required will soon be got at. We 
would advise you for ten fowls to commence as 
follows:—As early as possible in the morning 
give a feed of Spratt’s food and meal. This had 
better be prepared overnight by mixing a pint 
of the food with the same quantity of water. 
In the morning the food will be found to have p 
absorbed up the water. With this work in as | 
much barley or other meal as it. will take, that 
is to say, until it becomes a dry paste, which, 
when thrown on the ground, breaks into frag¬ 
ments. Avoid giving this or any other soft food 
in a wet, sloppy state, as it is not only wasteful, 
but it is disliked by the birds themselves. If 
there be any household scraps, such as bread or 
potatoes, you cannot do better than mix them with 
the Sprati’s food. About noon the fowls should 
be thrown a light feed of hard grain, say a small 
handful to each bird, and half an hour before 
roosting time a full feed of hard grain, which 
for ten birds would be about a pint or rather 
more. But we repeat, it is impossible to give a 
stated quantity. So much depends on the quan¬ 
tity of insects and odds and ends the birds can 
pick up during the day, likewise the breed of 
fowls kept. For grain, the staple should be 
barley, mixed alternately with wheat, buck¬ 
wheat, and maize. The latter is good as a cbaDge, 
but not as a regular diet. Rice, well boiled and 
mixed with barley or maize meal, may be given 
in the morning for a change. Brewers' grains, 
if fresh, are greatly relished, and if you are near 
a malting establishment and can obtain a bushel 
or two of malt dust, you will find it a great 
boon, as fowls will eat almost anything when 
sprinkled with it.— Andalusian. 

Poultry book. — W. J. G. — Wright’s 
“ Poultry Book ” is the most complete work on 
the subject yet published. The price is 31s. fid. 
and £2 2a., according to the binding, of Cassell, 
Petter, & Galpin. This firm also publish another 
smaller one at 5s. by the same author. But no 
amount of book-reading will give you so much 
practical knowledge as to the general treatment 
of poultry as a year or two’s actual keeping of 
fowls, and we should strongly advise you, before 
buying an expensive stock, as you purpose doing, 
to keep a few common fowls for a little time 
until you get initiated into their wants and 
requirements. We feel certain, unless you follow 
this plan, that your venture will only end in 
disappointment and loss, as with the present 
great competition, to take a prize at a poultry 
show one must possess really practical know¬ 
ledge. Of course anyone can buy birds which 
have taken prizes and show them again and win, 
but there is no honour in this, nor can any profit 
be made out of it. You must breed the birds 
yourself.— Andalusian. 

Dorkings. — T. C.— Coloured or common 
Dorkings as seen in most farmyards are generally 
much larger than any of the fancy varieties, 
such as Silver Greys, White, and Cuckoo 
Dorkings, in all of which size has been sacri¬ 
ficed to plumage and other fancy points. All 
Dorkings should be massive and square in 
appearance, with full broad breast, legs short, and 
stout, and with five toes on them, back very broad 
with tail large and well expanded. A Dorking 
cock should weigh from ten to twelve pounds, 
and a hen about nine pounds. Size is the 
principal point, mostly l^ok at this, 


and the legs and feet, which should be clean and 
free from all monstrosities.—A ndalusian. 


W. H. SMITH 

ONE PENNY EACH.—Geraniums. Fuchsias, 
VJ Coleus, Ageratuins, Giant Musk, Paris Daisy, Sensitive 
Plant (very curious), Bolinum, Acacia lophantha, scented 
Verbena, Heliotrope, Salvia (scarlet and blue), beuums, 
Tradescantia, Balsams, Hen and Chickens, Kob Roy, and 
Bride Daisies, Emperor William and Belgian Pansy; the 
above 21 plants, free, la. 6d. 

PUTTINGS root freely now.—24 cuttings of 
\J various plants, la. 3d : 12 cuttings of Geraniums aud 
Fuchsias, or Coleus, selected, lo. ; extra select, 2a., all free. 

W. H. SMI T H, St. Fai th’s, No rwich. 

G HKAP PLANTS for greenhouse or window 
culture.—2 Plumbago capensia, Is. ; 2 Begonia wel- 
tonousis. Is.; 2 Nicotian* affinfa. Is. ; 2 Solanum. Christmas 
Cherry, 1 b. ; 2 aenn-double Geraniums, la.; 2 Fuchsias, to in¬ 
clude good double white. Is. ; 2 Coleus of 1882, In. ; 2 Begonia 
fuchsioides, Is. ; 2 Eucalyptus globulus. Is. The above 18 
plauts, all Btrong and healtny, for 5s. ; half for 3s.; quarter 
Is 9<L. all carriage paid, in tin bores, with directions for 
treatment.-CA8B0N & HON, Florist, Millfleld, Peter¬ 
borough. _ ___ 

TTEGETABLE SEEDS for present sowing.— 
V 1 oz. red Baesauo Tripoli Onion, 1 oz. white Tripoli 
Onion, 1 oz. early fiix-week Turnip, 1 oz. mi ted Tumip 
Radish, 3 packets of hardy Lettuce, 3 packets early Cabbage, 
2s. 6d the lot: half, le 6d., all post free.—CAHBON & SON, 
Heed Grow ers, Mi 1 1 field. Peterborough._ 

UGHITE CLOVES i WHITE CLOVES! s-Mrs. 

• Sinkins, the new hybrid white Clove, is the largest, 
sweetest, hardiest, moat free growing and flowering variety in 
cultivation; blooms 3 inches across; perfect rosettes. Were 
admired by thousands at H K.H. Duchess of Teck’s stall at 
the urand Bazaar, also at Lady Peek's Bazaar opened by 
lien. Sir F. Roberta. Plants 6a. iter doz., post free for carh.— 
\V. WHALE, T;tplow, Bucks._ 

DY PARCELS POST DELIVERY.—Splendid 

D winter blooming Geraniums, best vari ties, all colours, 
true to name and well rooted ttafely packed In boxes, 10 
grand plants all distinct, package and carriage free, P.O. 3a. 
—wEO. B0YE6 a, CO., Ayiestoue Park, Leic ester _ 

P ARCELS PwST.— Pansies, 100 well rooted 

plants to flower this autumn, in ten distinct choicent 
show and fancy varieties, carefully packed, fiee. 2s. 6cL—J. 
GALVIN, Mount Talbot Nuneriee, Rosco mmon._ 


B EST WINTER FLOWERING PEANTS.-ln 

fertilising Moss ; good plants with large roots. Pot now 
for grand display all winter and spring. 1 'fants in fertilising 
Mo.8 travel with perfect safety, bee the following testi¬ 
monial alter 350 miles journey: “The plants arrived in 
splendid condition. after being unpacked two hours they 
were as fresh as it they had never left jour establishment. 
The selection was most choice."— From J. M. Pringle, 
EhQ , Coanwood. Carlisle. Select from the following at is. 
per doz. , 10 doz., cur selection, 21s., delivered free to any 
addre»«: Eupatorium, 2 nest varieties; perpetual flowering 
Begonias, white, rose, coral j Chryeunthemums, Japanese, 
incurved, and Postpone ; Genista fra grans, Lantanaa, 2 best; 
double scarlet Pelargonium. Cyclamen, Cupueas, scarlet 
Salvias, scarlet Mutk, double scarlet Tr^pioolum, double 
seedling Cinerarias. Heliotiope. Three evergreen foliage 
plants gratis with every order. Satisfaction giveu or money 
returned.—MANAGER, Floral Farm, Crawley Down. 

"\nOL4S.— Strong cuttings of True Blue, the 
V best blue. 50 for 2s 6<L, 100, 4s.; Mrs. Gray, the finest 
white, 50 for 3s. 6tL, 100 for 6s.; Lord Darmey, a grea 
improvement ou Holyrood, 60 for 3s., 101 for 5s. ; Holyrood, 
4) per 100; and Bevcral other kinds; all free by post for 
orderBOf 2a. 6d and upwards. Send for catalogue of Violas 
and Pansies.—WILLIAM DEAN, Florist, Wal&all, btafford- 
shire. 


ivi JiW RARCiSLs TOS1.—From the 1st August 
Xl prox. we offer the following plants, guaranteed correctly 
named and carriage free: -12 choice Alpines, good plants, 
3a. ; 12 choice oaxitrages, distinct, good clumps. 2s. ; 6 very 
choice New British herns (worth 6s. each), 5s ; Hnxifragu 
Wallacei, new (bco Gardening, July 21. page 225). large 
clumps, Is each. 100 Alpines, small, healthy, well-rooted 
plants, 10s.—F. W. & H. 8TANSF1KLD, Sale, near Man¬ 
chester. _ 


WADE &. CO., 

GLASS MERCHANTS, 
10, COOPEB'S BOW, LIVERPOOL. 

Polished and Rough Plato, Sheet and Ornamental Window 

Glass, &c. Small squares of sheet glass, suitable for green¬ 
houses, at special prices. Carriage paid to all parts. Green- 

houses designed and erected. Wholesale ana for e xport_ 

CHEAP PLANTS FOR THE G ARDEN 
AND GREENHOUSE. 

Catalogue, tenth prices and description, free, for S stamps. 

Primulas and Cinerarias, the finest strains, Is. 6d. per doz., 
10*. per 100. 

Begonias (tuberous), to name, last year's bulbs, started, 12 
sorts, 6s. 

Fuchsias, double or single, the finest sorts, 12 for 2s. Sd.; 
100 in 50 sorts, 11s. 

Wallflowers. Canterbury Bells, Sweet Williams, Polyanthuses. 
Primroses, strong Becdlings, 8d doz., 50 for 2s., 100 for 
3s. 6d. 

Climbing plants, hardy.-12 pretty sorts of Ivy, distinct in 
colour or form, 6a. Clematis, Honeysuckles, Ac., strong 
plants 9s. doz. 

Fentstemou6, Phloxes. Pyrethrumfi, for this season’s bloom, 
12 of each, strong (not postal scraps), for 10s. 6d., half for 6 b. 

Coleus. Lantana*, Abutilnns, Begonias of the fuchsioides 
class. Chrysanthemums, Geraniums (tingle, double, or 
Ivy-leaf), auy, 2s 3<1 per doz. iu 12 varieties. 

Herbaceous plants if planted now will survive the winter 
better than if planted later, aud will bloom liner next 
year. 12 varieties, distinct, 3«. 6d.; 50 varieties, 12s. 6<L ; 
100 varieties, 25k. 

Ferns. 12 flue sorts for greenhouse, all distinct 5a. 

Dahlias, show, fancy, or bouquet, 12 for 2g. 6d.; 100 in 100 
Borts, 16s. 

WM. CLIBRAN & SON, 

OLDFIELD NURSERY, ALTRINCHAM. 


N EW PINK GERANIUM, PRINCESS 

HELEN.—This is the best winter-blooming pink Gera¬ 
nium yet produced: also the best pink bedder. As free 
bloomer as the old VE8UVIU8, never seeding outdoors—a 
great boon for a pink. Good plants, Is. 6d. each, post free. 

NEW DOUBLE GOLDEN MARGUERITE.-Chrysan¬ 
themum luteu plena, bright golden yellow, as double as a 
Ranunculus, blooming profusely all the year round; fine for 
cut bloom. Good plants, «d. each, post free. 

BICOLOR PLENA, similar to the above; colour yellow, 
margined with white ; fine for cut bloom. 6d. each, post free. 

TALL LOBELIA8 (c&rdin&lis section).—6 fine varieties of 
this useful summer and autumu-blooming perennial, 3s., poet 
free, from B W. KNIGHT. Florist B attle, S ussex._ 

DENNY PLANTS FOR THE MILLION.- 

X The following are now offered in good plants: 12 Fuch¬ 
sias, specially for pots or the border, Is. 12 yellow Calceola¬ 
rias, Is. 12 bedding Cupheas, Is. 12 various single Gera¬ 
niums, Is. 12 various double Geraniums, Is. 12 Heliotro- 
piums, la. 12 white Paris Marguerites, Is. 12 dwarf blue 
Ager&tum, Is. 12 large Victoria Daisies, la. 12 Polyanthus 
Is. 12 scarlet Geraniums, Is. 12 pink Geraniums, Is. 12 
Coleus Verschaffelti. best for bedding, Is. 12 Cbryaanthe- 
inuins, large-flowered, Japan, an d Pom pone, Is. 12 Myosotii, 
Cliveden Forget-me-not, Is. 12 Sweet William, Auricula- 
eyed, 1s. 12 dwarf white Ageratum, la. 12 Coleus, fire for 
pots, Is. 12 dwarf blue lobelia. Is. 12 Iresine Lindeni, la 
12 variegated Geraniums, Is. 12 scarlet bedding Trop®olum. 
Is. 12 variegated Alyssum, white foliage for edging. Is. lz 
Petunias, fine. Is. 12 Giant Musk, the large variety, Is. 12 
Fannies aud Violas, fine for bedding, la. 12 dark brown 
Calceolarias, Is. 12 Mentha ^ibraltarica, fine for margins or 
carpet bedding, Is. 12 Antirrhinums, line variety, Is. 12 
white Geraniums, Is. 

Auy of the above plants sent post free at Is. per dozen. 
Orders of 10s. and onwards, if desired, will bo sent in boxes 
per rail, carriage paid, to London. All are good plants, from 
B. W. KNIGHT. Florist, Battle. Sussex. 


PJALCEOLARIAS, CINERARIAS, AND 

PRIMULA8, from the very best flowers and colours 
extant, all raised from home grown seed, very superb strains; 
cannot fail to give splendid flowers. Calceolaria. Is. 6<t per 
dozen ; Cineraria. Is. fd. per dozen ; Primula, 2a. per dozen, 
in good plants, post free. From 

B. W. KNIGHT. Flo rist, Batt'c, Sussex. 

NTEW and SELECT BOUVARDIAS.—Thete 

Xl useful winter-blooming plants, so valuable for cut bloom, 
are now offered in good plants ; 12 Bne varieties, including 
the new double white ALFRED NEUNER, for 4a. post free. 
UYNURA AURANTIACA. a new brdding plant, of free 
growth and compact habit,with beautiful deep violet coloured 
foliage; will soon be used as extensively as the Coleus 
Verschaffelti, with which it contrasts well All bedders 
should procure it to work up stock for future use It is also 
a grand decorative plant for the conservatory. Good plants. 
Is. each, post iree, from B. W. KNIGHT, Florist, Battle, 
Sussex. 


"DOUVARDIA President Garfield, splendid 
L) double Dink flowers, invaluable for cut bloom, Is. 6d. 
each, 12«. per doz. ; B. Alfred Neuncr. pure white rosette¬ 
like double flowers, 9ii each, 6s. per doz.; B Barrier, an 
attrac .ive floriferous var., bearing flue clusters of deep scarlet, 
flowers, 9d. each, 6s. per doz.: B. elegans, beautiful scarlet 
flowers, 9tL each, 6s. per doz.; B. Vreelandi. pure while, 6d. 
each, 4s. per doz ; B. Hogarth, splendid truss, bright orauge- 
sciriet, fine habit. 6d. each, 4s per doz.; B. Humholdii corym- 
biflora, snow-white flowers, almost equal to 8teph«notis, 6d. 
each. 4s. per doz.; B. jasminoides. large white flowers, de¬ 
lightfully fragrant, 6d. each, 4a. p»rdoz.; Begonia fuchsioides, 
a fine winter-flowering specie*, producing attractive corsl- 
like flowers. 9d. each. 7s. 6d. per doz ; Gardenia intermedia, 
beet var., clean healthy plants, 9d. each, 7s 6d. per dot ; 
Marguerite Etoile d'Or. best var., true healthy plants of this 
are offered at. JkLeach, 6s. Od per doz. Terms, cash with order 
post aud package free —JOHN LEMAN, Chigwell, Essex.^ 

OTAR OF BETHLEHEMl—Twill send 25 of 

O this pretty white spring-flowering bulb, free, for Is. 6<L 
—R MARIES. Florist, Lytham.__ 


Q.RAPE HYACINTH, or Starch Plant.—I will 
vT pend 25 of this beautiful blue spring-flowering bulb, 
free, for Is. gd.—R. M ARIES, Flo rist, Lytham.__ 


pVERYONE should grow Anemone japonica 
Xl alba, large white flowers m the autumn; 4 strong plants 
free for Is. 6a.—R. MARIES, Florist, Lytham._ 


EH CHOICE assorted herbaceous plants, named, 
OkJ for 12s. 6d , packing free great variety in xtock.—R. 
MAR 1 E 8 , Flo rist, Lytha m. 

f CAN ALSO OFFER the following good 
-1- plants: Hardy Fuchsias, four varieties for 2s.; perennial 
Candytuft, best variety, three for 2s. : Saxifraga pyramidalis. 
splendid plant for pots or border, or the rockery, two for 
2s. 6d.; fine double Hnowdrope, 100 for 3s. 6<L— B. MARIES, 
Florist, Lytham. Postal orders or cheques, when convenient, 
preferable to stamps. 


qUHIZOSTY LIS COCCIN EA.—This lovely 

O scarlet Gladiolus-like plant is quite hardy, fiowers all 
through the autumn, 12 strong crowns, free, for 2s. 6d.— 
R. MA RIK8. Floris t, Lytham. _ 

PRIMULAS and CINERARIAS.—A few only 

X to offer of my very cholco strain. Is 6d per dozen, free. 

-R. MARIE S. Florist . Lytha m._ 

PASSIFLORA CCERULEA.—This lovely blue 

X hardy Pa^ion Flower I can offer two plants free for 
la. 6d. • line climber --R. MAR IES. Florist, Ly team. 


VjUMMiJjtt SNOWFLAKE (Ltucojum ajsti- 

Q vum).—This splendid monster Snowdrop I can offer two 
good flowering bulba free for Is. 6d. (Bee Gardening 
Illustrated of June 23).—R. MARIES, Florist Lytham. 
T)aNS 1E6.—Few dozen to part with, be*t 
X named sorts, from a private collection; good roots, 3s. 
per doz., carriage paid.—WM. SYDENHAM, Water Ortou, 

near Birming ham. _ _ ? 

U Eh Golden Purslane, Sweet Fennel, 
XL Basil. Marjoram, pot Marjoram, winter Savory, Fern - 
leaved Parsley, 1 arragon, Chervil.Coleriac or Turnip-rooted 
Celery. Chamomile, Feverfew, Hyssop, Horehound, Rue. 
Anise, Cumin, Dill, Coriander, Rosemary, Lavender, 
Wormwood. Is. 6d. per dozen, on rail Is. 9d, post free.— 
EDWARD LEIGH, Dn psfold, Godaiming. _ 

ELWAY & SON, L»nsix>rt, Somerset, offer 
. Herbaceous Plante. Dahlias, r ingle and double; Pyre- 
thrums, single and double; Phloxes, and Tea Roses, Calceo¬ 
laria. and Cineraria seed._Catalogue8 gratis aud pos t free 

OOSE BUDS FOR BUDDINU, best varieties, 

XL true to name. Teas, Is. fid : H. P.’s, Is. 2d. per dozen, 
free; per 100, Teas. 7s. 6d ; H. P.’s, 6s., package free.— 
WILLIAM C AUD WELL, F.R.K.B , The Ivies. Wantage. 


K 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. V. AUGUST 4, 1883. No. 230. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Continued from page 234.) 

Chrysanthemum s In the open air. 

To obtain flowers of the Chrysanthemum in 
the highest state of perfection, shelter of some 
kind is necessary. Bat a very considerable 
amount of success has been secured by many 
amateurs without glass. In some instances the 
plants are grown in pots, with temporary shelter 
erected over them when in blossom; in others, 
where only a few plants are grown, they are 
moved into the house at the approach of cold 
weather, where they fill the stands and windows 
in a charming manner, looking bright and gay 
for a considerable time. The i’ompone varieties 
sre best adapted for this work. Another way of 
growing them is to plant them out in the open 
air, pinching them occasionally in the early 
stages, to induce a dense habit; and then in Sep¬ 
tember or October, after the buds are set, run 
the spade round the stem, leaving a ball about 
as large as will fill the sized pots they are to 
occupy when lifted. They should be potted up 
just before frost sets in—towards the 20th of 
October is a good time. But many people grow 
Chrysanthemums simply as border plants, leaving 
them to take their chance without shelter or 
any other care or cultivation than the ordinary 
hardy plants receive. Occasionally very good 
displays are obtained in this way, and as the 
Chrysanthemum takes so kindly to a smoke- 
laden atmosphere, it is eminently suited for 
town gardens. In the course of my wanderings 
among the back Btrects of houses and cities, I 
have often in autumn come upon pleasant little 
shows of Chrysanthemums, where the cultivators 
have had no other place for their plants than the 
few square yards in which they are blooming so 
prettily; but they make up for their limited 
means and resources by incessant care and 
attention. Stirring the earth beneath them 
frequently, dewing over the foliage after every 
hot day, pinching the gross robber shoots, and 
other little attentions which the plants appre¬ 
ciate and respond to in the shape of glossy 
leaves and bright flowers. It is true, frequently 
all this labour is lost by one night’s killing frost 
in November. What then ? All have their 
failnres, and it is one of the traits of the 
Anglo-Saxon character not to know When 
they are beaten, but to plod on hope¬ 
fully, now and then scoring a great success, 
which compensates for pa9t disappointments. 

I have already stated the Pompones are best 
for border culture, but where a low wall 
has to be covered, the tall kinds may be ad¬ 
vantageously planted; indeed, a good deal more 
use might be made of the tall, large-llowering 
Chrv8ar.themums for covering the bottom of 
walla and clothing low walls generally than is 
done. The walls might be wired, and the plants 
tied to the wires. Many of the tall, large-flower¬ 
ing kinds will grow 5 feet or 6 feet high in a 
good border well supplied with water in dry 
weather, and when well fed and sheltered the 
Sowers are large in size and the colours beauti¬ 
fully clenr. Besides, it is very easy to shelter 
the flowers against a wall by suspending some 
thin woven material, such as scrim or tiffany, 
over them on frosty nights. Thus treated they 
sre perfectly safe. 

1 shall refer to the Chrysanthemum as a pot 
riant later on. I am now only thinking of it 
is a hardy border plant. Its hardiness in a well- 
frainetl soil is undoubted, but in consequence of 
a late-blooming habit, the flowers are frequently 
decoloured and injured by late autumn frosts. 
Sven when regarded as a hardy border plant, the 
hrysan themura should have liberal treatment, 
ar the bottom leaves will fall, and naked stems 
iiywhere are objectionable. Turfy loam and 
old cow manure that has laid in a heap some 
‘-ime will grow them to perfection; but they 
-isipate a good deal of moisture, and a liberal 
-pply of water will be necessary with occa¬ 
sional doses of liquid manure. The propagation 
k very easy; cuttings may be rooted at any time 
ia spring and summer, or the roots will throw np 
» number of offsets in spring, which may be 
separated from the parent stool with a piece of 


root attached and planted elsewhere. The plant 
should be divided and replanted annually to 
obtain the best results. Being gross feeders, 
they consume most of the food within their 
reach in one season, hence the value of annual 
removal. To obtain small, dwarf plants to fill 
In a bed in some prominent position, the points 
of the shoots may be layered towards the end of 
J uly or beginning of August by pegging them 
into the soil; they may be layered into pots or 
boxes, or be laid down and pegged into the 
earth which surround the plants in the ordinary 
way, to be severed from the parent plant as 
soon as well rooted. 

Tall large-flowering varieties for covering lore 
walls. —Alfred Salter, Aurea multiflora, Chris¬ 
tine, Empress of India, Eve, George Glenny, 
Golden Beverley, Hero of Stoko Newington, 
John Salter, Lady Talfourd, Mrs. G. Bundle, 
I’rogne, Queen of England, and Elaine. 

Pompone varieties for borders. — Andromeda 
rosea. Bijou de Horticulture, Bob, Brown Cedo 
Nulli, General Canrobert, James Forsyth, La 
Vogue, Lilac Cedo Nulli, Model of Perfection, 
President, Princess Maria, Salomon, Soeur Me¬ 
lanie, Virginale, and Fanny. 

Ancmone-floweredvarietiesforborilers. —Astrea, 
Calliope, Fleur de Marie, Marie Stuart, Mr. 
Astier, Rose Marguerite. The above are floe 
for cutting, and they are also of a manageable 
size in the border. 

Summer-flowering Chrysanthemums. — This is 
a comparatively new race, whose numbers are 
now considerable, and they are exceedingly 
useful both as border plants and also for pot 
culture. They begin flowering in July and con¬ 
tinue to the autumn. There is no difficulty in 
their cultivation, and I think they are destined 
to become very popular. Aureole, crimson, 
tipped lemon; Cassy, rose ; Curiosity, lilac; 
Delphine Caboche, purplish rose; Frederick 
Pele, red; Golden Button, yellow; La Nymph, 
rosy purple; Le Luxembourg, bronze; Lucinda, 
white and lilac; Madame Desgrange, creamy 
white; ildlle. Jolivart, peach; Scarlet Gem, 
scarlet; Souvenir d’un Ami, white. 

E. Hobday. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


HARDY FLOWERS. 

Perennial Larkspurs are flowering well 
this year, some of the taller kinds having sent up 
spikes to a height of 6 feet and more. The best 
situation for these tall Delphiniums is in the 
foreground of shrnbs, as with the dark foliage to 
back them up, their stately habit tells, and they 
produce a very striking effect. When grown in 
such positions it is necessary to have them suffi¬ 
ciently far away from the evergreens to be clear 
of their roots, otherwise the evergreens rob and 
impoverish the soil above the Delphiniums to 
such an extent as to starve and spoil them, as they 
not only require rich, deep land, but plenty of 
moisture. Among the medium growing sorts of 
the better kind3 of Larkspurs, D. Belladonna is 
the finest and best. The flowers of this are of a 
lovely pale blue, and masses of them seen in the 
distance look like a beautiful clond. In size and 
habit it resembles that popular favorite, D. for- 
mosum, which still holds its own, and is more 
than likely to do so for a long time to come. 

Campanulas. —Next in point of merit are the 
Campanulas, the biennial species being gorgeous 
just now; they form quite large bushes and are 
crowded with blossoms. The most showy are 
C. Medium and calycanthema, which have largo 
coloured calices and are very remarkable looking. 
A packet of seed of these yields plants that afford 
an infinite variety of colour, and if the seeds are 
sown now, the plants will be quite early enough 
for flowering next year. C. pyramidalis is a 
stately species, growing to the height of 3 feet 
or 4 feet, branching freely, and clothing itself 
with blooms from base to summit. Another 
perennial species oE great value is C. coronata, 
which bears tall spikes of pendulous pure white 
blossoms. C. persicifolia is also a very desirable 
kind, and so is C. Van Houttei, which has large 
blue blooms upwards of 2 inches in length. In C. 
turbinata the order of tilings is reversed, as that 


has erect cup-like flowers instead of the drooping 
bell, and, though only of lowly growth, is a dis¬ 
tinct and very fine kind. 

Antirrhinums have been in good condition 
this year. The same may be said of Pentste- 
mons, which are usually late in blooming, but 
this year are as showy and good as they generally 
are in the autumn. The way to get plenty of 
variety among these is to sow seed. I’entste- 
mons have been so much improved, that they are 
not only very large in blossom, but splendid in 
shading and colour. Lilies are opening fast, the 
Tiger kinds being even now in fall beauty; 
but the one I like best of all, old and 
common though it be, is L. candidum, which 
for chasteness and refinement of finish is 
unrivalled by any. Funkias, such as F. Sie- 
boldi, are simply magnificent; not only have 
they very ornamental foliage, but they are al¬ 
most equal to Lilies in the style and size of their 
blossoms. The best for cutting from are the 
different kinds of ovata, which are not so large 
as the above-named, but for striking leafage F. 
Sieboldi and F. Sieboldi variegata are quite un¬ 
surpassed. To see them at their best they require 
shade and plenty of moisture, and when so 
accommodated they assume quite a glaucous 
metallic hue distinct from anything else. Al- 
strosmerias are gorgeous in their many coloured 
hues, and the wsnder is that they are not more 
largely grown, as all they need is light, well- 
drained, deep soil and a warm situation. Our 
beds are on a south border on each side of a walk 
where the plants have been for the last twenty 
years, and all the attention they receive is a 
mulching of half-rotten leaves just before winter 
sets in. As their roots are deep from being so 
long established, this keeps them safe from frost, 
and they corne np thickly every spring and pro¬ 
duce great heads of flowers. To start with them 
the ground should be trenched and made light 
and open with sand and leaf-mould, when seed 
may be sown or plants planted deeply, and if the 
latter, the best time to turn them out is very 
early in spring. 

The Geraniums have been particularly fine, 
the most striking among them being G. platy- 
petalum, which has light blue flowers nearly as 
large as a five-shilling-piece. G. ibericum is also a 
striking-looking kind, having flowers of a deep 
violet hue, and among the pink varieties G. 
Endressi is one of the best. These and other 
Geraniums of a like character are well adapted 
for rockwork, and may be raised and increased 
readily from seed, which they set freely, or by 
division, the proper time for effecting which is 
just when the plants are starting to grow. 
Another capital plant for rockwork is Yittadenia 
triloba, which bears Daisy-like flowers and will 
flourish anywhere, however dry or hot the 
situation may be. With ns it is growing out of 
the old joints in walls, where it has established 
itself and looks quite at home. The rich glow 
of the Helianthemums when the sun is on them 
is something remarkable, especially when seen 
in masses where they carpet the ground. A 
good way of growing and using these rock Roses 
is along the sides of sunny walks that have 
ugly dead hedges to hide, which the Helian¬ 
themums will do effectually, and clothe them 
with beauty. For striking effect in large, wide 
borders nothing can equal 

The herbaceous P-eonies, the full, massive 
flowers of which are gorgeous and grand. A few 
years ago there were not many representatives 
of this class of Froonies, but now, thanks to 
hybridists who have exercised their skill on 
them, we have a great number of varieties, 
ranging from the various shades of deep crimson 
down to pure white, while the petals of others 
are marked with stripes or tipped in the way of 
Carnations. Not only are the herbaceous 
I'iconics large and splendid in colour, but many 
of them are sweet scented, and when cut and 
placed in waterperfume a large room. To grow 
the plants well, they require deep rich land, and 
should be planted clear from the roots of trees 
or shrubs, which rob and starve them and quite 
spoil their beauty. The mode of increase is by 
division, which should be carried out in spring, 
as then the cut parts heal rapidly over and there 
is no fear of rot. 


Google 







244 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Aug. 4, 1883. 


The flag or common Irises have vied 
with the Piwonies and have made a line show, but 
have now ceased flowering, and are followed by 
the Spanish and English varieties, both of which 
are almost equal to some of the choicest Orchids, 
so unique are the flowers in their form, and so 
lovely in colour and rich markings. The Flag or 
evergreen species will grow and flourish almost 
anywhere, but they do best where they can get 
a little shade and plenty of moisture, under which 
conditions they spread and bloom with the greatest 
of freedom. Both the Spanish and English kinds 
require a light and somewhat dry, sandy soil, as 
being bulbous rooted and more tender, they are 
apt to die off in the winter. In planting the latter 
sorts it is a good plan to drop a handful of sand 
over the bulbs, which prevents wet lying about 
them in winter and saves them from rot. Some 
cultivators take them up, but that is unnecessary, 
and if planted as indicated above, they are far 
better left alone in the ground. Too much cannot 
be said in praise of 

The double Pyrethrums, which have 
been most brilliant, and should be more largely 
planted than they are now; they flower very early, 
are remarkably showy, and are of great value for 
cutting. The newer and finer kinds are a great 
improvement on the old, as they are so full 
and well formed as to be equal to Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, to the flowers of which they bear a good 
deal of resemblance. The most desirable kinds 
are Boule de Neige, pure white; Candidum 
plenum, pure white ; Lady Blanche, delicate 
rose ; Brilliant, rich rosy purple, Fulgens 
plenissimum, purplish carmine; Imbricatum 
plenum, purplish carmine ; Mons. Barral, 
magenta - crimson ; Prince Teck, brilliant 
crimson; Roseum magnificum, shaded rose ; 
Solfaterre, sulphur and white; Luteum plenum, 
salmon - rose ; Rev. J. Dix, carmine ; Striatum, 
rosy pink; Mrs. Dix, delicate blush. These double 
Pyrethrums succeed best on rather stiff land, and 
are fond of plenty of moisture. The situation for 
which they are most adapted is near the front of 
borders, and seedlings or single kinds should 
be planted extensively in semi-wild places, where 
they soon become naturalised and look quite at 
home. 

Another fine plant for this purpose is the old 
Dictamnus Fraxinella, the coloured variety of 
which grows very strong, and forms quite a bush, 
sending up numerous long spikes of peculiar 
shaped blossoms. The white kind is not so strong, 
but both are highly scented, and well adapted for 
the backs of large, wide borders, or growing in 
the foreground of shrubs Spiraea palmata is a 
real gem, and should be in every herbaceous 
border, as it is the most showy and by far the 
best of the species. Like all the Spiraeas, it de¬ 
lights in a wet soil, and does best where it can 
also have a little shade, and when so favoured it 
growB strong, flowers freely, and lasts a long time 
in perfection. S. japonica, so largely used for 
forcing, and S. Filipendula flore-pleno, planted 
around it, make a fine group, and the distinction 
of colour shows up the first-named to the greatest 
advantage. 

The Hemerocallis, or day Lilies, are now 
Just at their best, at least H. Kwanso and H. 
fulva are, but H. luteais nearly over. This latter 
is a valuable plant, sending up, as it does, such a 
profusion of large rich yellow Lily-like blossoms. 
The habit of H. lutea being less strong, and the 
plant altogether a smaller and more compact 
grower, it is better adapted for borders than the 
two above mentioned, and is useful for potting 
for forcing, as with gentle heat it soon comes in 
and makes a fine show in a greenhouse. H. fulva 
and H. Kwanso are noble looking objects by the 
sides of woodland walks or near the margins of 
ponds, positions for which they are well adapted, 
and when in bloom have a striking effect. 
Aquilegias, too, are just the plants for shrubbery 
borders, and if the hardy kinds of vulgaris are 
sown and planted there, they seed themselves 
and soon spread about over the place. In the 
borders special attention should be given to A. 
chrysantha and A. ccerulca, which, with their 
long spur-like appendages, are very ornamental 
and beautiful. Both require light soil and a 
sheltered situation, as they make their growth 
early and are apt to get cut about in the spring. 


Stoneoropa (Sedums). — All the hardy 
varieties of Sedums are usually classed as rock- 
work plants, a purpose for which they are ad- 

Dmttadb, Google 


mirably adapted, and perhaps so treated they 
are more at home than when used in any other 
way, but a few of them are so well suited for 
the parterre, and their use saves so much time 
and space that would otherwise be required in 
the propagation and wintering of tender plants, 
that we have come to regard certain varieties as 
indispensable in summer bedding arrangements. 
The dwarf section are invaluable as edging and 
carpeting plants; the best kinds are S. acre, 
green; acre elegans, cream coloured; corsicum 
and glaucum, bluish grey; and Lydium, deep 
green. The best of the tall and trailing growers 
are altissimum, spectabile, Sieboldi variegatum, 
and Telephium; these varieties look well 
planted in lines or clumps, and continue in 
flower a long time, rain or wind doing but little 
injury to the flowers. All the kinds are readily 
propagated by division, early spring being the 
best time for splitting up the plants. 


CLIMBERS FOR WALLS. 

Ivy is supposed to be adapted for “ growing o’er 
ruins grey,” but objections are entertained against 
planting it against mansions of the living. The 
first of these objections is the idea that it causes 
damp walls, and the second arises from a reluc¬ 
tance to cover'good masonry out of sight. There 
are many noble houses, however, that might with 
great advantage and good taste be clothed with 
Ivy or the Ampelopsis Veitcbi; and if this was 
settled upon at the outset, the walls need not be 
faced with rubbed stone, but hewn only, thus 
saving much expense. It is a great mistake to 
suppose that Ivy causes damp. Much of the house 
here is Ivy-clad, and no evil effects from damp 
have ever arisen, except when thelvy was allowed 
to choke up the sponts or gutters, and that can 
easily be prevented by annual clippingand pruning 
—a work that can be done speedily, for the Ivy 
stands any amount of close shearing, and always 
looks best and neatest when it is shorn quite close 
to the wall every April or May. The new foliage 
grows immediately, and has a much fresher and 
greener appearance than when allowed to push 
out from amongst the old, and the clippings effec¬ 
tually prevent sparrows from harbouring in it, 
which they are sure otherwise to do. It is, how¬ 
ever, only the common, strong-growing Ivies that 
need much clipping. The more tender golden 
and silver variegated kinds do not need it, as they 
grow closely on to the wall; but these varieties 
take a long time to clothe a building. Therefore, 
for general purposes, the common Ivy is the best. 
It soon runs up, and if planted in a good soil, 
and afforded root room, it will take care of itself. 
Mansions with flagged terraces around them are 
the worst to furnish in this way, for the roots do 
not thrive under the flags. In such cases good 
beds may be made for them near to the wall, and 
covered flush with the flags with iron gratings. 

A better plant than Ivy for our purpose, how¬ 
ever, is the Ampelopsis Veitchi, only it is decidu¬ 
ous—leafless from the beginning of December 
till April or May, according to the locality. The 
leaves are green in spring and summer, and change 
to chocolate and crimson in autumn, and in fine 
summers or in good, sunny positions it is then a 
gorgeous plant. In the north it must have a 
southern or western exposure, and should not be 
planted on north walls. Ivy will do best there. 
The great merits of the Ampelopsis are its 
thoroughly hardy character, rapid growth—push¬ 
ing many feet in a season, and covering walls 
30 feet to 40 feet high in a few years—and the 
fact that it needs absolutely no training, pruning, 
or nailing whatever. It glues itself to the wall, and 
always looks as close and neat almost as if it had 
been pasted on. For churches and similar build¬ 
ings, rustic cottages, and the like, it is a charmiDg 
plant, not by any means half so well known as it 
should be. It grows fast in any good garden soil 
that is well drained, and is readily propagated 
from cuttings of the last year’s wood, struck either 
in a slight heat early in the season, or later out¬ 
doors. It will attach itself to trees or anything, 
but as a wall plant it looks best and does best, 
and no outdoor situation can be too favourable 
for it. I have never seen an insect upon its 
foliage j it seems to be quite free from pests. 

_ J. S. W. 

Thyme In the flower garden.— Though 
strictly speaking ail tke plants belonging to the 
genus Thymus are herbs, there are several of the 
varieties which for use in the flower garden 
cannot be excelled by any other plant of similar 


habit and hardiness. T. corsicus, hirsutus, 
tomentosus, Herpyllum, and lanuginosus make 
good rockwork plants, and the two last-named 
kinds will flourish in the driest positions. 
The gold and silver variegated varieties are 
generally used for edgings in summer bedding, 
and when kept trim by frequent cutting, they are 
excellent plants for the purpose, but a far better 
use may be made of them, as well as of the com¬ 
mon green variety, and that is as edgings and 
groundworks in winter bedding arrangements. 
The density of their root formation is favourable 
to their transplantation at almost any season ; 
indeed, I have on many occasions at the height 
of summer made good with these a failure in 
summer bedding plants, and as our beds have all 
to be as fully furnished in the winter as in sum¬ 
mer, there was so much the less to be done when 
the general clearance and replanting began. 
Seedlings of the common green kind make the 
best plants. .Sow in pans in March, transplant 
to the open borders early in May, and the plants 
will be ready for the following winter. The 
variegated kinds can only be had from cuttings, 
which strike well at any season under hand- 
lights or in cold frames. The kinds forrockwork 
are increased by division in autumn or early in 
spring. 

Sempervivums. —A few years ago there 
was some danger of this class of plants ousting 
every other hardy kind that was being used as 
edgings, &c., in the flower garden, but as the 
stock increased, so did the horrible “cockle¬ 
shell ” appearance of our gardens, and this arti¬ 
ficiality soon made us dislike them, and by this 
means the danger was averted—still, in reason¬ 
able proportions and in appropriate positions 
several of the kinds are desirable. All the hardy 
sorts are in every way effective on rock and 
root-work, and on dry banks and old walls, but 
the kinds to which I wish to allude now are 
those that best serve for edgings and groundwork 
to flower beds, and especially to succulent beds. 
The varieties that can with advantage be so used 
are arachnoideum, calcareum (californicum), 
globiferum, and montanum. The large growing 
kinds, such as arborenm variegatum, canariense, 
ciliatum, Haworthi, retusum, and nrbicum, are 
desirable sorts for dotting about in dwarf 
foliage beds and for intermixing with allied 
species in succulent arrangements. We have 
several such beds here, and even amidst all the 
wealth of flower which we have at this time of 
year they stand out conspicuously in their quaint , 
yet chaste, beauty, and, what is of no small 
importance, wind or wet weather does not harm 
them. 

VIOLETS FOR WINTER BLOOMS. 

Many complain that they fail to obtain good 
flowers from their Violets in winter, the cause of 
which may generally be traced to want of 
attention during the hottest months of the 
year. Violets like generous treatment when 
making their growth, or the crowns fail to attain 
the strength and plumpness essential to the for¬ 
mation of vigorous buds, with the consequent 
effect that the flowers are either wholly or par¬ 
tially wanting in the form, colour, and fragrance 
characteristic of them when in a state of perfect 
development. The best plants are obtained 
from runners made about the present time, 
which should be, when well rooted, at once 
severed from the parent stools, and be set out in 
well stirred, richly manured ground, some 
4 inches apart, then to be encouraged into 
making strong growth by frequent copious 
waterings in dry weather, and daily sprinklings 
overhead once or twice a day according as the 
atmosphere is moreor less arid. Some recommend 
that Violets be grown in partial shade, but my 
experience leads to the conclusion that flo- 
riferousness is better secured when an open posi¬ 
tion is given them. I have never found that 
Violets dislike a large amount of sun when sup¬ 
plied with abundance of good food and a never- 
failing amount of moisture. At the same time, 
soil and local circumstances should to a great 
extent determine the position chosen, as where 
the garden lies high and the soil is light and 
parching, the task of counteracting the adverse 
conditions is a heavy one, and where some shade 
from the mid-day sun can be secured, 1 would 
advise that advantage be taken of it. The east 
side of a wall, fence, or hedge is an excellent 
place, as the sun recedes from snch positions 
by mid-day, leaving the plants cool and com¬ 
fortable for the remaining portion of the day. A 


Arc. 4, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILL USTRA1 ED 


245 


very good plan is to stick in some Laurel 
branches on the sunny side of the rows, as these 
can be removed as soon as the waning power of 
the sun indicates that shade is no longer neces¬ 
sary or even advisable. Although runners 
make the best plants, and I think generally 
come earliest into bloom, old Btools may 
be utilised with much success for winter- 
flowering. The best way iB to take them up, 
shake away the old earth, pull them to pieces if 
large, leaving about three crowns to each por¬ 
tion, and treat them as above indicated. The 
crowded plantations of Violets which have re¬ 
mained from year to year without much care 
having been given them, are often almost devoid 
of bloom, and when clumps of them are lifted 
in the autumn for potting or for planting in 
frames, there is so great a scarcity of flowers as 
to render no adequate return for the labour be¬ 
stowed on them. When the time to transplant 
the whole bed cannot be spared, patches should 
he cut out bodily here and there, so as to admit 
of the entry of sufficient light and air to enable 
the crowns to attain some Bubstance and 
maturity, at the same time giving a liberal top- 
dressing of rotten dung or some concentrated 
stimulant. For such purposes as this I have 
found Clay's fertiliser most excellent; the effects 
of it when applied to almost worn-out and ex¬ 
hausted plants is magical, and at the same time 
lasting. Alternate dressings of this and soot 
give such substance, colour, and vigour to the 
foliage as can scarcely be surpassed. J. C. 

By fleet. 

Hyaclnthus candloans — It cannot, I 
think, be generally known that this makes a fine 
pot plant. It is still less known, perhaps, that 
it can be forced into flower out of its natural 
season. It is rather a striking plant when well 
grown in pots and placed amongst other bright 
flowering plants, as it has ample leaves of a 
pleasing shade of green. It may bo potted singly 
in 6-inch pots, and grown as for indoor decora¬ 
tion ; but it is much more effective when five 
or six bulbs are planted in 8-inch pots, and the 
growths neatly staked as they increase in height. 
They are not at all particular as to soil. I find 
•bey grow very strongly in half loam and half 
leaf soil, but no doubt any ordinary garden soil 
would suit them. They like a fair supply of 
water, especially when producing their flower- 
spikes. In dealing with them under glass, a 
light, airy position is necessary to secure well- 
developed foliage. Potted at different times, 
they may be had in flower nearly the whole year, 
and therefore they are valuable for those who 
may require white flowers for cutting. Onehas only 
to cat out the dark anthers to have a very chaste 
and beautiful white flower. In dealing with 
them in the open ground it is beet to plant them 
and leave them alone. I planted some bulbs in 
clumps six years ago, and there they have re¬ 
mained undisturbed since. Every year they in¬ 
crease in number and effectiveness, so that no 
severe frost is likely to hurt them. For the 
mixed border they are very useful, as they come 
into flower at a time when hardy flowers are 
scarce. Planted in alternate clumps with Gladioli 
they are very striking, being of the same habit 
of growth. As they seed freely, and the seed 
ripens in ordinary summers, it is easy to raise a 
few hundreds or thousands of bulbs in this way 
if so many are required. We sow the seeds 
thinly in the open ground in April, and leave the 
young plants undisturbed all the summer, just 
keepiug them free from weeds. In November 
the bulbs are lifted and stowed away, as we do 
Dahlias, not to keep them from frost, but to 
make sure of their not being injured by being 
dug up in winter. If we want a few dozen roots 
to flower the next summer, we select the largest 
and keep them separate. In spring the largest 
are planted where they are wanted to flower; 
the small roots are planted in the reserve border. 
They are put about 2 inches under the surface 
and 9 inches apart each way. Generally the 
whole of these small ones flower the second 
year, but if large bulbs are wanted, it is best to 
pinch off the flower-spike to give strength to the 
roots.—J. C. 

Our own selection. —The "own selec¬ 
tion ” business falls with special severity on the 
owners of small gardens who wish to go in for 
hardy plants, but who do not know what to 
choose. The owner of a garden, no point of 
which extends furtheiylhkn a hundred] yards 
from the hoose, who^gnrjl^: o nfeto J (jfiese 


“ collections ” of hardy plants is extremely likely 
to think he had better have kept to bedding 
plants and “ the ills he had rather than have 
rushed to others that he knew not of." Nursery¬ 
men do not or will not understand the require¬ 
ments of small gardens, of which the owner is 
really the head gardener. There no plants are 
suitable which are shrubbery border plants, or 
merely good filling up material. Everything 
must be the very best that can be had, and 
everything that can be characterised as weedy 
is out of place. If nurserymen would make 
up collections consisting of good Auriculas, 
Polyanthuses, Primroses, Primulas, Narcissi, 
Irises, Tulips, Anemones, Columbines, Ranun- 
culi, Pyrethrnm roseum, Pinks, Pansies, Car¬ 
nations, Phloxes, Pentstemons, Delphiniums, 
Antirrhinums, Lilies, and Chrysanthemums, and 
some of the more striking hardy plants like 
Anemone japonica, Seneoio pulcher, Dictamnus 
Fraxinella, Kparaxis pulcherrima, and Antheri- 
cum Liliastrum, and next growing plants like 
the Saxifragas, Sedums, Silene Schafta, Iberis, 
Anbrietia, and the Scillas, a few good cutting 
flowers like the doable Genm coccinenm and 
Achillea l’tarmica fl.-pl., and a few plants for 
extra hot stations and for moist and Bhady ones, 
they would be conferring a great boon upon 
thousands who are willing to bny if they only 
knew what, and would do the public and them- ] 


selves much more benefit than by sending out 
plants which require the background of a wood 
or a shrubbery to show them off to advantage. 
Some of the collections advertised consist of 
really good plants almost entirely, but have the 
unfortunate fault of being just such plants as 
when placed together produce an extremely 
weedy effect unless planted in some arrangement 
which would require from a dozen to a hundred 
of the dwarf kinds to one of each of the tall 
kinds selected.—J. D. 


THE JAPANESE WINDFLOWER. 

(ANEMONE JAPONICA.) 

Of this hardy perennial we have three fine forms, 
viz., japonica, japonica alba, and japonica 
hybrida. The former has rosy-carmine flowers 
of good size, but a little ragged in the outline ; 
the second, large and finely-former! white flowers; 
the latter, blossoms of fine form, of a pale 
salmon-rose hue. They are all of robust growth, 
and when well established flower with great 
freedom, especially the white variety ; and, 
indeed, it would be difficult to name another 
plant of greater value for cutting from during 
the antumn months. A good bed of it on a lawn 
would be a fine feature in autumn. When once 
obtained, it is not difficult to increase them, for 
towards the end of the summer, small suckers 
are thrown up from the roots, and if these be 
taken off and put into small pots of rich soil, 
they soon establish themselves, and can be 
planted out in spring. They would make fine 
conservatory objects grown in pots and fed with 
liquid manure at the time of flowering. As the 


plants grow from 3 feet to 4 feet in height, when 
well established, they should have ample space 
in which to grow. The annexed illustration, 
taken from Mr. Robinson's “ Wild Garden,” 
shows how well fitted it is for naturalisation in 
shrubberries and the rougher parts of pleasure 
grounds. 

Mulching and top-dressing.—I ob¬ 
serve that “J. Glasgow" (see page 230) takes 
me to task for advising the use of garden re¬ 
fuse for mulching or covering the roots of 
various crops needing such protection, on the 
score of untidiness, and that such substances 
harbour snails and sings, and as a substitute 
advises wood ashes from the wheelwright's 
yard. Allow me to state that the suggestion is 
a good one, but where are the wheelwrights' 
yards in proportion to the gardens, and although 
“ J. Glasgow " is so happily situated as to get a 
supply of such valuable material, I know hun¬ 
dreds whose only choice rests between matching 
or top-dressing with Borne easily procured in¬ 
expensive substance or letting the surface go 
bare. As to the notidiness, it is purely imagi¬ 
nary, fora coveting of grass, or even the soft green 
tips of trees taken at summer pinching, may be 
put along beside rows of Teas or any other crop 
eo as to look as neat and trim as may be desired, 
| and slugs will take care of themselves whether 


you top-dress or not. In fact, I frequently tnrn 
over these top-dressings, and give a dusting of 
lime, so that they act as a trap to these garden 
pests. I hope no one will be deterred from 
using procurable articles by reason of hearing 
that nonprocurable ones are the exact thing.— 
J. Groom, Goiport. 


Red spider.— Clean water I find to be the 
best remedy for red spider, a pest that is often 
very troublesome on trees growing on old walls, 
as there it has every chance of lurking in the 
crevices and joints, from whence it issues forth 
and attacks the leaves as soon as they form. Red 
spider is often brought on by dryness at the 
roots; these iusecta are always in the wake of 
poverty, and trees heavily laden with fruit are 
always liable to them, as the load tends to 
weaken their energies. To prevent Peaches and 
Nectarines suffering when they are bearing and 
ripening a crop there is nothing like mulching, 
which keeps the fierce heat of the sun off the 
ground, and maintains it in a more uniform 
condition as regards moisture. For mulching, 
any long, half-rotten, littery manure may be 
used, as it lies light and shades sufficiently, with¬ 
out obstructing the air too much and causing the 
soil to turn sour.—D. 


Flowers for sketching.— We thall be 

glad if our readert mill lend ui from time to time 
ipedment of any unurually good or rare flowerifor 
figuring. In all caiet the flowert should be tent 
with fairly long ttalht, and where possible with 
foliage alto. 3]Jerri of picturesque garden.' would 
I alio bo welcome. 



The Japanese Windflower (Anemone Japonica). 



















240 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Aug. 4, 1883. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary — Avgust 6 to 
Avgust 11 . 

Putting in cuttings of Alyssum variegatum for stock. 
Staking and tying Chrysanthemums, and placing them in 
a sunny position. Putting in cuttings of Verbenas for 
stock. Stopping Carnations in pits. Propagating Pelar¬ 
goniums in boxes. Putting Primulas into their flowering 
pots out of 3-lnch ones. Nailing Vines to walls outside. 
Going over Grapes and taking out all shanked berries. 
Trenching ground for Strawberries. Netting Plums, in 
order to preserve them from birds. Planting out bed of 
Strawberries. Gathering Juneating Apples for dessert. 
Pruning shoots of Pears on walls. Potting Strawberries 
for forcing, and layering a few more for planting out. 
Sowing Turnips for autumn use between Gooseberries, 
bowing Bath Cos Lettuces and Enfield Market Cabbages. 
Planting CattelTs Eclipse Broccoli. Sowing more Little 
Pixie, Early lleartwell, and Defiance Cabbages; also 
Elat Italian and New Giant Rocca Onions. Tying and 
stopping Cucumbers. Sowing Incomparable and All 
Heart Cabbages. Thinning out Parsley and Lettuces. 
Sowing Mustard and Cress; also Hammersmith Hardy 
Green and Wyatt’s Green Curled Lettuces, and Chou de 
Milan Cabbages for succession. Pulling up Broad Beans 
and hoeing and cleaning the ground ready for next crop. 
Sowing winter Cucumbers. Planting Snow’s Winter 
White Broccoli after Potatoes. Digging ground for 
winter Spinach. Planting ground alter Broad Beans 
with Garnishing Kale and Little Pixie Savoys. Gathering 
all Scarlet Runners ready for use. Hoeing ground 
between last-planted Cabbages. Removing superfluous 
wood from Tomatoes on outside walla. 

Glasshouses. 

HARD-WOODED GREENHOUSE TLANTS. —No 
time should now be lost in putting outside such 
plants as require a few weeks’ exposure, including 
those that fail to set bloom freely if kept indoors 
all the year round, and those that are liable to 
be attacked by mildew. Eriostemons, Hedaromas, 
Correas, Acacias, Aphelexis, Boronias, Pimeleas, 
Pleromas, &c., should all be treated in this way. 
It is a good plan to put them for a few days 
where they will not be under the full influence 
of the sun, particularly in the middle of the day; 
in a week's time they may be placed in the full 
sun, taking earc that the pots on the side nearest 
it are shaded from its direct rays. If this is not 
done injury will result to the roots that ore in 
contact with the inner surface. The ground on 
which the plants are placed ought to have a layer 
of ashes spread over it, not less than 4 inches 
thick, to keep out worms. If we have very bright 
weather it will be a great assistance if the ashes 
are damped every evening, and the plants well 
syringed in the afternoons, being careful that the 
water gets to the undersides of the leaves as well 
as the upper. So far the season has not been 
favourable to red spider ; still before putting the 
plants out each ought to be examined to see if 
this troublesome insect exists on them, a3 it 
spreads very fast out of doors when the weather 
is bright and soon does a great deal of damage. 
Any that are found to be affected ought to be 
laid on their sides and syringed with weak 
Gishurst compound (two ounces to the gallon of 
water is quite strong enough for this purpose, but 
the dressing to be effectual must be thorough); 
let it remain on for about an hour and then wash 
with clean water. All plants which the insect 
has attacked should, so long as there is enough 
warmth for it to live, be examined regularly, as 
a fresh lot may come to life, and before they are 
noticed do a deal of injury to the foliage. Whilst 
the plants are out it will be necessary to be very 
careful in the matter of watering, examining each 
at least once a day, as the drying influences of 
sun and wind are greater outdoors than under 
glass. 

Cinerarias should at once be placed in their 
flowering pots-6 inches or 7 inches in diameter 
is large enough for ordinary purpose—and, if 
the plants are well managed, they will grow 
therein to a size that will produce fine heads 
of bloom They are very subject to green-fly, 
which must never be allowed to get established 
upon them, or both appearance and vigour will 
be sacrificed. As soon as the pots are filled with 
roots they should be regularly supplied with 
manure water. Never allow them to become 
cramped at the root before moving them into 
their flowering pots, or they will not attain their 
wonted strength and size. Grow them in good 
loam, with one-fifth of rotten manure and leaf- 
soil in equal parts added, and as much sand as 
will keep the soil porous. They do not bear 
Tobacco smoke well, as it often injures the 
leaves if applied of sufficient strength to destroy 
aphides, to free them from which, dipping in a 
pailful of Tobacco water is the best remedy. 

Primulas. —Thesp should also.be moved into 
G-iuch flowering poUuv Tl:o^ ^ lre> somewhat 


spare-rooting subjects, and do not require a great 
body of soil to grow in. Drain them well, using 
soil similar to that used for Cinerarias. Put 
both in pita or frames, facing northwards, and 
give air freely, taking the lights completely off 
the Primulas during the day, but do not allow 
them to get saturated with rain. In very bright 
weather a piece of old fruit-tree netting placed 
over them will be useful to break the sun’s rays, 
but will not obstruct the light as a mat would 
do. 

Rochea falcata. —This is a serviceable plant 
in autumn; it is most useful when grown in 
G-inoh or 8-inch pots. Examples wanted to be 
in flower next year will be "benefited by being 
exposed in the open air to the full sun for a few 
weeks; the growth by this means gets bettor 
matured and solidified than if kept altogether 
indoors. Those now pushing up their flower- 
stems will require plenty of air and light to 
prevent their being drawn up weakly. If there 
is not sufficient stock, leaf cuttings may now bo 
taken off and put in sandy soil round the sides 
of pots. They will form roots and push out 
shoots, but must only have as much water as will 
keep the soil from getting dust dry, or they will 
rot; the same mishap will also occur if they are 
kept too close. As soon as they have begun to 
grow fairly, move them singly into small pots, 
using sandy porous soil, and giving them more 
water. 

Eucharis amazonica. —IVhere there is any 
considerable demand for cut flowers this plant 
ought to be grown in quantity. By growing and 
resting some at different periods, where there is 
sufficient stock, it may be had in bloom all the 
year. Examples that flowered early and since 
then have made sufficient growth, ought to be 
put to rest, and should have no water until the 
leaves flag slightly, when a little may be applied, 
but not so much as to induce the plants to begin 
growing again. Place them in a lower tempera¬ 
ture for five or six weeks, and give no more 
water than is just sufficient to prevent the leaves 
from being injured. They will soon bloom again 
when placed in heat. 

Epacrises should now have full exposure to 
the sun to thoroughly ripen up their growths, as 
on this will their flowering freely depend. Strong 
plants of the Scarborough Lily (Vallota pur¬ 
purea) should now be liberally fed in order to 
induce ihom to throw a good crop of flowers. 
Pinks intended for forcing should now be in 
their blooming pots, to give them time to get 
established before winter. The earliest Carna¬ 
tions should now be throwing up their flower- 
spikes, and must be kept free from aphides. 
Late-flowering Lilies are often crippled at this 
season if green-fly gains a footing amongst the 
flowers. Where this is the case the points of the 
shoots should be dipped in a weak solution of 
Tobacco water. The whole stock of Pelargo¬ 
niums, both show and fancy kinds, may now be 
cut down if the shoots have been well ripened. 
Encourage late ones to break freely and quickly, 
so as to get part of their growth made before 
the short days set in. Plants that were cut 
down earlier, and that have broken, should be 
shaken out and repotted at once. 

Flower Garden. 

Hardy flowers. —If we were certain that 
our summer seasons were always to be so cold 
and gloomy as the present, there would be but 
little difficulty in persuading everyone to give 
up summer bedding and keep strictly to hardy 
flowers, which, notwithstanding all the wind, 
rain, and cold nights, are now in glorious bloom. 
Achilleas, Columbines, Delphiniums, Potentillas, 
Kpira:as, and Phloxes are a few of the most 
conspicuous of those now in bloom. They need 
an occasional tie to support them, and require to 
have the bad flowers removed. Annuals in the 
same borders also need support, and to be 
thinned out. Sweet Peas will continue flowering 
the whole season if not allowed to seed, and a 
good way of securing a succession of flowers is 
to pinch out the tops, a plan which conduces to 
lateral growth, on which flowers equal to those 
of the main stem are produced. Two sowings 
of Sweet Peas—January and March—are all 
that we ever make, and yet by this plan we 
always have an abundance of flowers till sharp 
frost cuts them down. Scarlet Runners and the 
Canary Creepers are amenable to exactly the 
same treatment, and the resnlts are similar. 

Sub-tropical and other bedding plants. 
—Quick growing kinds of sub-tropical plant 


should be looked over (every week, to see that 
they are properly staked and tied. Peg down 
the undergrowth and keep the beds free from 
weeds; should the weather be dry, they will 
require abundance of water to keep them in 
vigorous growth. The regular removal of decayed 
and seeding flowers will also greatly tend to 
retention of vigour. The common kinds of 
bedding plants also require frequent looking 
over with the view of removing bad flowers and 
foliage, and regulating their growth by pegging 
down and pinching. Verbenas, Petunias, Cal¬ 
ceolarias, and Pelargoniums can only be kept in 
presentable condition, especially daring showery 
weather, by oft repeated picking over. Keep 
the lines and edgings of foliage beds in trim 
condition and well defined. Sedums and Saxi¬ 
frages only need a little manipulation with the 
lingers; other plants may need clipping. 
Echcverias may require to have the flowers 
removed, and the same remark applies to tricolor 
Pelargoniums. Alternantheras have done badly 
with us, and to fill out the space Herniaria 
glabra and several kinds of Sedums are now 
being dibbled in between the plants, labour that 
will be well repaid both as regards summer and 
winter effect. 

General work.— Weeds on walks and roads 
have this season been very troublesome. In the 
case of some gravels—those that do not bind 
down bard, hoeing may be had recourse to; in 
that of hard gravel hand-weeding only should be 
practised. For moss-grown spots under trees, 

Ac., a winter dressing of salt is desirable; it 
kills the moss, and adds brightness to the gravel. 

Now that they have completed their growth, 
shrubs and branches of trees overhanging walks 
should be trimmed up. Portugal and common 
Laurels, Yews, and Rhododendrons are some of t; 
the kinds that now need cutting back. Shrubbery 
weeding and hoeing constitute another important 
item of labour at this season, and if, as is fre¬ 
quently the case, time cannot be spared to go 
through them thoroughly, an effort should at all 
events be made to prevent the weeds seeding by 
going through them with a rip-hook. 

Fruit. 

Vines. —Early houses In which the wood is 
getting ripe may now have free ventilation by 
night and by day, and more mulching may be 
spread over the Inside borders to keep the roots 
moist and actively working in the surface 
dressing. Syringe well every evening to preserve 
the foliage as long as possible, and while 
gradually shortening back all strong laterals to 
strengthen and plump up the fruit-bearing buds, 
allow weaker growths to have full play until the 
main leaves begin to ripen. If any of the Grapes 
have not finished well, the roots should be lifted 
and relaid in fresh soil, or a portion of the old 
compost may be taken away and replaced with 
rich loam before this month is out. The mode 
of procedure having so often been described in 
these columns, it is only necessary to advise 
despatch in the performance of the operation. 
Black Grapes now ripe will keep best where the 
foliage is dense, but, lacking this, some light 
shading may be thrown over the roof until the 
fruit is cut. On the other hand, white varieties 
colour and keep well, and Muscats lay on the 
finest amber where sun-heat and light can play 
freely through the foliage on and around the 
bunches. Should our hopes of brighter days be 
realised, fire heat will only be needed to prevent 
moisture from condensing on the berries, and to 1 
admit of a free circulation of dry, warm air 
through the night. Keep the foliage clean by 1 
putting in a syringeful of clean, soft water when¬ 
ever it can be applied without damagi ng the 
Grapes. Damp the floors well on fine days and 
see that the inside roots are kept in a moist, 
healthy state by tho application of warm water 
whenever needfnl. Muscats and late Grapes now 
colouring will stand a high day temperature with 
plenty of air and sufficient moisture to keep the 
foliage fresh and healthy. If the main foliage 
in the Muscat house is clean and good, the 
laterals may be well shortened back to let sun 
heat and light into tho wood and fruit; but 
Lady Downes and other black kinds will colour 
best under a thick canopy of foliage, provided 
the primary leaves are not crowded or injured 
by an unreasonable quantity of lateral growth 
When colouring becomes general another heavv 
watering with warm liquid will greatly benefi t 
the Vines by producing conditions unfavourable 



Ai'G. 4, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


247 


to spider, while its stimulating effects will pro¬ 
duce a depth of colour and bloom which the 
fruit on half-starved Vines never attains. 

Hardy fruits. —Stop all strong growths on 
reaches and Nectarines, and keep the shoots 
neatly trained to let in sun and air. The heavy 
rains we had in June and July having thoroughly 
soaked the borders, the trees arehealthy, vigorous, 
and free from insects, and promise to ripen up a 
crop of fine fruit; but, owing to the lateness of 
the season, Walburton Late Admirable, Barring¬ 
ton, and other late kinds will need timely atten¬ 
tion to every point in the detailed management 
to get the fruit forward and the wood perfectly 
ripened before bad weather sets in. To this end 
early afternoon syringing with water at a tem¬ 
perature of 80° will do good service, and an 
occasional surface watering with tepid water 
will tell upon the size and quality of the fruit. 
Complete the thinning of Pears and Btop all 
lateral growths, as every ray of sun and light 
will be needed by the fruit, and even then many 
of the choice kinds will be found deficient in 
flavour. Cut away the old canes as soon as 
Raspberries have done bearing, and thin out all 
the weakest shoots of the current year to let in 
light and air. Tie up those left to prevent them 
from being injured by the wind, and keep the 
beds free from weeds. Trim off all damaged 
leaves, also the runners when the Strawberry 
crop is over. Mulch with rotten manure or good 
rich loam, and give the beds a thorough soaking 
with the hose. See former directions with regard 
to the formation of new beds, and get the plants 
in without delay. If ground intended for new 
plantations is still occupied by other crops, turn 
the newly rooted runners out of the pots into 
nursery beds where they can be regularly watered 
and defer planting until spring. At tbe present 
time we are gathering very good Oxonians from 
plants treated in this way, and although growing 
on a north border the fruit is superior to that 
produced by older plants which have made too 
much foliage. 

Vegetables. 

Now is a good time to sow winter Lettuces— 
that is. Lettuce for cutting through the winter— 
and Tripoli Onions, and as soon as you see the 
young seedlings appear protect with netting, or 
the wind will ruin your crop. Have a good 
breadth of Parsley for the winter supply. Cut 
all herbs that are in flower, spreading them out 
to dry, but not bunching them green, which 
spoils their flavour. Begin now to get the manure 
together for the October Mushrooms, water it 
with manure water, and sprinkle with it a little 
salt Ground cleared of Peas, Potatoes, French 
(leans, and similar crops should at once be sown 
with Turnips ; not a day should be lost in getting 
the seed in, as upon this depends the crop reaching 
a useful size before growth is stopped by cold 
weather. Make another sowing of Cabbage. 
Where a serviceable crop is required there is 
nothing better than Enfield Market to come in 
after the smaller, more early kinds. The best 
way is to commence cutting it early enough, 
and there is no variety grown that makes such a 
quantity of useful sprouts after the first cutting. 
To assist the production of these from the crop 
that has already been cut, the old leaves should 
he cleared off the stools; by this means slugs 
and caterpillars that harbour in them are got rid 
of. The ground should then have a good soaking 
of moderately strong manure water. To make 
t'abbage crops pay the plants should have plenty 
of room, and when planted after Onions without 
any digging they should be strong and of one 
size. 

A small sowing of Radishes should be made 
every three weeks now in rich ground. Where 
llustard and Cress are required, they should be 
sown every ten days; these, with Radishes and 
Lettuces, must, to have them fit to eat, be 
Tvgulariy well watered, without which it is 
rapoasible to have salad of good quality. Celery, 
sore than moat crops, will now need to be well 
•oaked with water. After a good soaking, 1 inch 
* 2 inches of soil may be put to even the late 
rops ; it will prevent the roots, which lie close 
.0 the top, and are still further encouraged to 
ie surface by watering, from being so soon 
tried up. Late Peas should have a ridge of soil 
lawn on each side of the row, and within 
■ inches of it, so as to confine the water, which 
•kould bo applied without stint, or it will be 
•^possible to keep them frog) becoming a,prey 
t* mildew. One good drenching, so is to mdiston 


the soil down as deeply as the roots descend, 
will be of more service than six small waterings. 
Scarlet Runners must be similarly treated. 
These and all other crops will be much benefited 
by mulching 3 inches thick with littery manure. 
If the land be at all poor, nothing is better than 
to use it fresh from the stable, laying it on 
before the water is given. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 
With the showery, growing weather we have 
been experiencing lately, many bedding plants 
will have made such free growth by this time— 
particularly in anything like a rich soil—that 
frequent pruning or pinching in of their more 
luxuriant shoots will be necessary for the future. 
Nothing spoils the appearance of ribbon or car¬ 
pet-bedding more than the growing of the diffe¬ 
rent lines or blocks of one plant into that of 
another kind, and constant care will now bo 
necessary to prevent this taking place. 

Carnations. —Lovers of Carnations will now 
be enjoying the beauty of their favourites, which 
are just now in perfection. The true old deep 
crimson clove, the pink and white Cloves, and an 
infinite number of named kinds, to say nothing 
of seedlings, all arc in full bloom this month, 
and amply repay the care and cost necessary to 
bring them to perfection. Carnations will grow 
anywhere — either out-of-doors or in — and 
beyond layering and planting, and providing 
them with some sound and fairly rich material 
in which to grow, they are really very little 
trouble. It does not seem to be generally known 
that the Tree Carnations succeed admirably if 
planted out with their certainly hardier brethren 
of the herbaceous border, and bloom about the 
same time; indeed, I know of hardly any kind 
that makes so fitting a companion in growth 
and size and richness of bloom and colour as the 
lovely scarlet Alfigatiere. I have seen both these 
in more than one garden (suburban) planted 
side by side, yielding a profusion of blooms as 
large as a medium-sized Rose, and almost rival¬ 
ling the Queen of Flowers in perfume, 
Nearly all the named sorts of Carnations now 
extant are well worth the small amount of 
trouble needed to propagate them, but if yon 
want a bed of good and cheap plants—one more¬ 
over that will give you twice as many blooms, 
plant for plant, as those raised from cuttings or 
layers—then obtain a little really good seed, and 
raise a batch of seedlings. Sow the seed in 
April or May, under glass if possible, though a 
well-prepared bed out-of-doors is al most as good; 
prick off the plants either into nursery beds or, if 
in a bleak or smoky neighbourhood, into cold 
frames about September; plant out in a good 
bed of rich loamy soil in good time next spring, 
and in due time yon will have a lot of sturdy 
plants that will yield more flowers, probably, 
than you would care to count. All will not be 
double, of course, nor nearly all as finely finished 
as the named sorts, but if the seed was what it 
should be there will not be more than 25 per 
cent, single, and nearly all the rest will be very 
beautiful, if not quite perfect. 

Begin patting in cuttings of both Zonal Gera¬ 
niums and Pelargoniums as soon as they can 
be got; use 3-inch pots, four cuttings in each; 
sandy soil and fresh cinder ashes for drainage. 
The cuttings will strike as well out-of-doors as 
in at present, though a slightly shady spot is 
preferable if the weather comes very hot; as 
it is now, the more open the place the better. 

Sow seed of Intermediate Stock for flowering 
next spring: these should be wintered in small 
pots in frames, if possible. Wallflowers should 
now be pricked off into prepared beds, to be 
again removed to the places where they are to 
flower about October. Seed of Canterbury Bells, 
Campanulas, Foxgloves, Hollyhocks, and other 
biennials moy now be sown out-of-doors for 
next year’s display. Strong young seedlings 
will always beat old divided stools in town air. 

_ B. C. R. 

FRUIT. 

The strawberry crop.- This has been 
exceedingly good with us this year, and two of 
the sorts I would strongly recommend as ful¬ 
filling all requirements as regards cropping, size, 
and flavour, viz., Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury 
and Miiri'dial MacMahon. Beds of each of these 
have famished us with a dish of good-sized fruit 
daily since the 12th of July, and they are likely 


to do so for a week or ten days yet, besides 
occasional pickings for cream. The two sorts 
named, with President, are sufficient for our use, 
and are the only sorts worth growing on our 
light, gravelly soil. Sir Harry is another that 
does well; too well, in fact, as I have been 
trying for the last two or three years to stamp 
it out altogether, for it is astonishing how it 
comes to get mixed up with others, appropriating 
their place and finally killing them out in a 
short time. It is the greatest, cropper, but will 
not stand wet, and runs so strongly that I have 
decided to get rid of it. I have a belief that it 
seeds freely, as I cannot otherwise account for 
its presence amongst others, notwithstanding 
the greatest precautions when selecting the 
young plants. The system I pursue, and one 
often met with in places hereabouts, is growing 
them in 4 -feet beds, three or four rows being 
planted in each bed, and the runners allowed to 
cover the whole space, top-dressing with soil and 
manure in winter. They are mostly planted in 
autumn, which gives a chance of a fair crop the 
following summer, and are trenched down the 
third or fourth year, according to their vigour. 
Weight for weight, as good results are given by 
this system as by single plants in lines, and 
mulching is not so much a necessity.—R. S. 

Strawberry culture— As many may now 
be thinking about renewiug their Strawberry 
beds, the following may not be without interest: 
August is the best month in the year in which 
to plant Strawberries. The soil having been 
deeply cultivated, and young plants prepared 
by layering in small pots in July, plant in rows 
from 2 feet to 3 feet apart according to the 
variety, and give a good soaking of water; stir 
the surface soil now and then to keep down 
weeds, and cut off all runners as they appear. 
In November put a coat of half rotten manure 
on the surface. This not only works into the 
soil and thereby encourages root growth, but 
it also affords considerable protection to both 
roots and crowns when frost is very severe. 
In February it may be lightly forked into the 
soil, and in March or April a good coat of 
rough stable litter may be put all over the 
surface. This keeps down weeds, retains mois¬ 
ture in the soil, and forms a clean dry bed 
for the fruit to rest on when ripe. Anyone 
following this plan I feel sure will have as 
good results as I have for many years invari¬ 
ably had. Get well-rooted runners from fruit¬ 
ful plants to start with ; they can be got for 
about 5s. per 100.—James Groom. 


VEGETABLES. 


LARGE CAULIFLOWERS. 

The best Cauliflowers for table use are those 
which are solid, white, and clean, and about 
6 inches across. I fail to see why it should be 
thought desirable to grow Broccoli that turns 
in so late as the end of J une and the beginning 
of July. Broccoli is so long on the ground at 
any time that the patience of growers is often 
undnly tried, and all late sorts come off so late 
that not only is the soil very much exhausted, 
but it becomes vacant long after it should have 
been producing a successional crop. Besides, 
late Broccoli is always somewhat strong- 
flavoured, and cannot for a moment compare 
with sweet, tender young Cauliflowers, and if 
these latter can be bad in plenty in the months 
of J une and .1 uly the growing of such exception¬ 
ally late Broccoli seems at least unnecessary. 
I sow the Snowball Cauliflowers under glass 
without heat in February, prick the young 
plants out iuto frames, and at the end of April 
plant out with balls of soil attached into the 
open ground. These furnish an ample supply of 
delicious solid white heads during J une and the 
early part of July, and in their growth give only 
about five months of trouble. Broccoli, to turn 
in at the same time, must have been sown some 
nine months earlier. 

Three or four sowings of the Snowball at 
monthly intervals give an ample supply all 
through the summer till Autumn Giant is ready, 
and then Broccoli continues the supply till the 
following spring. If it is thought desirable to 
plant out autumn-sown Cauliflowers early in the 
winter, the best for that purpose is a good strain 
of the Early London, such as is grown by our 
leading market gardeners. Messrs. Ponpart, 
l’ocock, and other famous growers in West 
Middlesex, have a very line strain—so firm, white, 


248 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Aug. 4, 1883. 


and solid, as to excel considerably any of the 
strains ordinarily met with in private gardens. 
Mr. William Poupart, of Twickenham, who 
grows Cauliflowers very largely, employs several 
hundred bell-glasses or cloches for the autumn- 
planted stock, putting out five plants under each 
glass, and of these only the best four are left in 
the early spring. Got out at the end of October, 
these give fine heads from the end of May on¬ 
wards, and plants from the same sowing wintered 
and well hardened in frames put out in the 
spring continue the cutting till the spring-sown 
plants are sufficiently forward to come in to 
carry the supply through the summer. 

In common with nearly all the large market 
growers, Mr. Poupart saves his own seed, a score 
or two of the plants producing the handsomest 
and most solid heads being set aside for that 
purpose. An ample supply of moisture from the 
adjoining sewage pumping station enables this 
grower to keep his summer plants in the most 
robust and healthy condition. Mr. Poupart 
thinks the cloche preferable to the old hand- 
light, and in the end cheaper. Of course if a 
cloche should unfortunately get broken there is 
an end of it, but handlights get broken also, 
and the cost of repairing and painting where 
hundreds are used forms a heavy item. The 
earlier forms of the cloche were of the true bell- 
shape, the base of the glass projecting out¬ 
wards. This form was provocative of breakage, 
but now that vertical-sided glasses are made, 
the breakage relatively is very much less. Id 
using these over the Cauliflower plants through 
the winter it is not the rule to give air, for none 
seems to be needed. Because of this there is 
little need to be handling the cloches, and still 
less reason for them to be injured. In the spring 
these glasses are invaluable for protecting early 
put-out Cucumber and Marrow plants, and for 
many purposes they may be profitably employed. 
It seems strange that cloches are not more 
largely found in private gardens, for a score or 
two of them would prove of great service in 
many ways, and not least for the protection of 
Cauliflowers, Lettuces, &c., during the winter, 
and for raising seeds, propagating plants, and 
other uses during the summer. Cauliflowers merit 
as much as any member of the Brassica family 
careful culture^ and far more liberal growth than 
is usually bestowed. What with such very pre¬ 
cocious kinds as the Snowball, such substantial 
late kinds as the Autumn Giant, and with good 
strains of the Early London to stand through 
the winter, there is no reason why in any good 
garden Cauliflowers should not be had all through 
the summer half of the year, rendering as re¬ 
gards the vegetable supply the greatest possible 
service. A. D. 


Lifting early Potatoes.— The Potato 
crop of 1883 will undoubtedly be a very heavy 
one, the only question being how far the dread 
disease will reduce the quantity available for 
food. The early varieties that make but little 
top-growth are now quite ready for lifting, and, 
apart from the advisablity of getting them 
stored under cover from the heavy drenchings of 
rain we frequently get at this season, there is 
the additional advantage of getting the ground 
at liberty for winter cropping, for this is what 
may be termed the second seed time, and on the 
rapid rotation of crops depends in a great measure 
the amount of success that awaits various 
systems of culture. The old system of bare 
fallows will not do either for gardeners or 
farmers now-a-days. It is a fallacy to suppose the 
ground will wear out, for better crops are, as a 
rule, grown by those who adopt the rapid rota¬ 
tion system than by those who only take one 
crop a year from the soil; but, of course, the re¬ 
turn to the land of fresh fertilising material 
must be proportionate. As regards storing, I 
find that if kept dry these early lifted sorts are 
as safe out-of-doors as under a roof, a good 
covering of straw or litter being as good as any¬ 
thing, and if turned over and any affected tubers 
picked out before they are put away for the 
winter, there is little fear of them going bad 
afterwards; the labour of the double mode of 
storing will be well repaid by less loss during 
the winter.—J. G. H. 

10019.—Celery grub.—The larva) of this 
fly cause much damage to Celery by boring 
between the cuticles of the leaves, and, if un¬ 
checked, will devastate whole plantations. The 
surest remedy in small breadths is to crush each 
grub or maggot/>etween the fingfer $nd thumb. 


Watering the plants from time to time with 
soapy water is somewhat of a preventive. 
Watering with a solution of guano, at the rate 
of one ounce to the gallon of water, has been 
found to kill the grubs and stimulate the plants. 
Apply through a fine-rosed water-can overnight, 
and wash off in the morning with clean water. 
As the strength of guano varies, different pro¬ 
portions may be found necessary. Mr. Ross, of 
Byfleet, first made the following public, aDd it 
has been found to answer: Dissolve 2 pounds of 
Gishurst compound and 1 pound of Pooley's 
Tobacco powder in water, adding as much water 
as will make 36 gallons. Stand aside for twenty- 
four hours, and then apply with a fine-rosed 
water-can, so as to thoroughly wet the foliage, 
and in a short time all the grubs will be dead.— 
Celeb et Audax. 


HOUSE AND WINDOW GARDENING. 

ORNAMENTAL GRASSES AND ANNUALS. 
Those who may have grown any of the following 
kinds of ornamental Grasses should secure a 
good quantity for future use whilst they are in 
perfection. They will not be nearly so fine if 
allowed to remain on the plant after they are 
fully developed. A heavy downpour of rain will 
also spoil their beauty. Of the Agrostis we grow 
A. pulchella and nebulosa. The former is very 
pretty and useful for working into button-hole 
bouquets ; the latter is most useful for floral 
decorations in general. Briza gracilis and 
maxima are both valuable kinds, the latter 
especially so for floral decorations of a some¬ 
what bold character. Lagurus ovatus is always 
useful, especially when associated with liliaceous 
subjects. It is very soon spoiled by rain, and 
should therefore be secured on the first favour¬ 
able opportunity. Ilordeum jubatum is another 
beautiful Grass that ought to be gown in the 
most limited collection. It thrives best in a 
moist situation, quickly feeling the effects of 
drought, l’aspalum eiegans is another good and 
distinct sort. We shall secure our winter stock 
of all these in a few days. After this is done 
each kind will be loosely arranged in glass 
bottles, 6uch as have been used for pickles, &c. 
We then place them in a spare airy room not too 
near the light; no water of course is given them. 
In this manner we find them to keep their colour 
fairly well. 

Another very useful late kind of Grass is 
Eragrostis eiegans; this is just beginning to 
unfold its spikes, and in the form of successive 
crops will continue to do good service till the 
early frosts spoil their colour. All of these 
and several other distinct kinds will be found 
valuable where extensive decorations are carried 
out during the winter months. Those who 
have not room to grow these can secure many 
pretty sorts from the fields, woods, and hedges, 
all of which will help to economise the use 
of Fern in winter, when there is frequently 
none too much to spare. Of annuals easily 
raised from seed, the following will now do 
good service in the shape of cat flowers, viz.: 
Campanula Lorei and alba, both extremely 
pretty when arranged with some spikes of the 
Agrostis nebulosa and Sweet Saltan; the yellow 
kind can be used in association with these also, 
likewise the various colours of the Cornflow-ers 
Salvia patens is valuable for its colour; a spike 
or two used with white Sweet Pea will give a 
pleasing effect. For the want of anything better 
or closer to hand, a few Carrot leaves that are 
assuming their autumnal tints will be found not 
to be out of place. The different varieties of 
Phlox Drummondi are also extremely pretty, 
especially in small arrangements. 


Flowers and plants In rooms. — 

White Lilies cannot be surpassed in decorative 
value; three or four fine heads cut from 2 feet 
to 2 A feet long stand in a tall glass with dark 
foliage of Bay, and single Lily flowers are 
grouped in a wide brass dish with small bright 
fronds of Polypody and Hart’s-tongue Ferns. It 
is much to be regretted that they are too strongly 
scented to be bearable in living rooms, but this 
objection does not prevent their use in halls, 
corridors, and passage rooms. A good table 
bouquet consists of white Everlasting Pea, a 
flower of fine size and substance, with shoots of 
its own foliage. Coreopsis lanceolate is now 
most valuable; large bunches, without the 


addition of any foliage, are in pale blue-tinted 
goblets of Venetian glass. The plant is a per¬ 
sistent flowerer, and the flowers last long in 
water. It is one of those that best repay, by 
long flowering, any care given in cutting off 
dead blooms. White and pink Musk Mallows 
also make a pretty table bouquet. Various 
Begonias continue to be the most useful pot 
plants. 

INDOOR PLANTS. 


NOTES ON CAMELLIAS AND AZALEAS. 
Camellias are better under glass than in the 
open air after their buds are set; but, neverthe¬ 
less, turning them out frequently becomes a 
necessity with plants that bloom early, and 
which have made their growth correspondingly 
early, otherwise there is often danger of their 
blooming sooner than may be wanted, unless there 
happens to be a house with a north aspect at 
command, where, by throwing it open, they may 
be kept as cool as out-of-doors. Treated in this 
way there is much less danger of their getting 
dry at the roots than when set outside. The 
injurious effect that over-dry treatment at the 
roots has on these plants is proportionate to the 
more or less advanced stage the flower-buds are 
in; if only about setting, or a little mere, a dry 
condition of the soil does little or no harm ; in 
fact, with vigorous examples, it is frequently 
necessary to allow them to get dry with a view 
to insuring their setting flower-buds in place of 
making second growth. But whore the buds 
have attained any size, if allowed to get too dry, 
more or less falling is all but sure to follow, 
although it may not take place for as much as a 
couple of months or more after the soil has been 
so dried. Plants in the open air should have 
particular attention whilst the weather is dry in 
the matter of water, to avoid the consequences 
here pointed out. Camellias, if fairly treated, 
grow better than most plants even in the vicinity 
of smoky towns, but there is one evil connected 
with their cultivation in such localities, and that 
is that dense foggy weather in winter frequently 
causes the bloom buds to drop in quantity, 
especially those of the white kinds that are 
deservedly so much prized. JLany of the semi¬ 
double or irregular formed flowers are much 
better able to resist injury in the way described, 
and on that account are more suitable for • 
growing in places so affected. I have also 
noticed that the buds are much more likely to 
drop from the cause named when late, through “ 
not being sufficiently advanced in the autumn; 
consequently, although it is desirable to have as 
much succession as regards the time of flowering 
as circumstances will permit, it is better in such 
neighbourhoods to get them well forward in the 
summer and autumn for early blooming than to 
attempt, as is often done, to keep the greater 
portion for flowering in February or March. < 
Wherever these plants are underpotted, and 
the foliage, through being deficient in deep 
green colour, exhibits want of sufficient sus¬ 
tenance, manure water ought to be given. What¬ 
ever enriching material is used in this way, a 
liberal amount of soot should be included ; even 
soot water alone is one of the best things that 
can be given under such conditions. Not only 
have Camellias a special liking for soot, but it 
likewise benefits them by ridding the soil from 
the presence of worms. 

Azaleas, like Camellias, may be had in ■ 
bloom during much the greater portion of the 
year if a sufficient stock is at command and they 
are properly treated. At no time are their flowers <, 
more useful for cutting or the ordinary purposes 
of decoration than through the last two months 
of the year, when such flowers as are forthcoming 
under glass have to be wholly depended on. But 
though Azaleas bear forcing much better than 
most plants, it is far the best to regulate their 
time of blooming by the length of time they are 
kept warm under glass after the season's growth 
is completed and the buds are set. Where wanted 
to come up in about the time mentioned, the 
buds can scarcely be too large and prominent 
before they are taken out of heat; but, in 
speaking of heat, through the summer months 
no more is required than keeping them in a 
house where the suns rays are made use of by 
not giving too much air through the day, anil 
shutting it off completely early in the afternoons. 
Plants so treated until the buds are as large and 
prominent as those of Camellias in their early 
stages <&n later or, when required, > q induced to 


Ace. 4, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


ei 

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it 

t>J 

c! 




b 


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i 

a 

J 


open tbeir flowers with half the heat and in half 
the time that is necessary when turned oat of 
doors or pat in cool quarters under glass before 
or u soon as the flowers have set. Where Azaleas 
are required to bloom early, and to be freely 
used for cutting, the old white kind and Fielder's 
White, a slight improvement on the former, 
should find a place, for though some of the newer 
sorts have better formed flowers, still the much 
longer and more vigorous shoots which the old 
varieties named make permit of the flowers 
being cut with a correspondingly greater length 
of wood attached, a matter of great importance 
in cut flowers. Such examples as were kept for 
blooming late, say up to J une or July, will only 
now be making their growth, and to do them 
justice should for eight or ten weeks yet be sub¬ 
ject to warm treatment, otherwise many of the 
shoots will never set (lowers at all, or be so in¬ 
sufficiently developed, as to go blind through the 
winter. In most cases where this latter mishap 
occurs it is directly traceable to the buds not 
being sufficiently formed before the cessation of 
growth. The whole stock of Azaleas should be 
frequently examined to see that they are free 
from tbeir greatest enemy, thrips, also red spider, 
which latter sometimes makes its appearance 
through a deficient use of the syringe, in not 
getting the water well to the under-sides of the 
leaves. Dipping and washing with Tobacco 
water involves much more labour than fumiga¬ 
tion, but it is far more effectual for the destruc¬ 
tion of the thrips, and, wbat is of quite as much 
importance, it does not injure the leaves, which 
fumigation often does. Where red spider as well 
as thrips exist it is only necessary to add two or 
three ounces of Gisburst per gallon of the 
Tobacco water which will destroy the spider, 
that Tobacco water alone seldom does effectually. 
Azaleas in all their stages require to be much 
more liberally supplied with water at the roots 
than almost any other genera of fine-rooted, 
hard-wooded plants; they enjoy a moist condi¬ 
tion of the soil, such as would kill the small 
feeding fibres of most hard-wooded greenhouse 
subjects. J. B. 


il 

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tf' 


LILIES AS POT PLANTS, 

A GREAT deal of mystery, quite uncalled for, 
still surrounds the cultivation of these beautiful 
plants. Some years ago I remember a very fine 
collection that was grown with great success 
entirely out-of-doors, exceptduringtheirblooming 
season, when they were taken into the conserva¬ 
tory, where, along with Salvias and other 
autumn flowers, they made a glorious display. 
Let me, therefore, briefly describe the way in 
which they were grown. The season to com¬ 
mence the cultivation of Liliums of the lanci- 
folium, auratum, and similar varieties is when 
the tops have died down and the roots are at 
rest, and then the earlier potting is done the 
better. November is a good month for the 
operation, as the majority of sorts are quite at 
rest then. Shake away the soil and select all 
the flowering bulbs for potting, and lay aside all 
small bnlblets for planting in the open air. The 
soil should be well-rotted, fibry turf, peat, leaf- 
soil, dry cow mannre, crushed charcoal, and 
sharp silver sand. Good large pots—say 10 
inches or 12 inches in diameter—are the best. 
Put in plenty of clean potsherds for drainage; 
then some rough soil and a little fine material 
in which to set the largest bulbs. Five or seven 
will be plenty with which to make a grand 
specimen. 

Put a handful of dry sand over each bulb and 
just cover with the soil, so that the pots are 
about two-thirds full, then set them in a cellar 
or cool shed, but give no water until the spring. 
If necessary, they may be set in tiers one above 
the other, by placing a board over each tier of 
jots to act as a shelf. They will not commence 
to grow above the soil in spring until all danger 
sf severe frost is past, and I find the best po- 
ution is on a bed of coal ashes, covering at night 
vith mats or tiffany as long as frost may be ex- 
weted. In May they will make fine sturdy 
■hoots, and will show the surface roots in a 
uncle just above the ground; then fill the pot up 
»ith rich compost, consisting of cow manure 
*d loam in equal parts; these active roots will 
peal ly strengthen the flower-stem. Be very 
Brefnl with watering, as no plants are sooner 
■jured by stagnant water at the roots than 
I*ev. Put a stake to each flower Btem, but be 
CBefol not to pierce tha-touib. Lilies as a rule 
"■■clean plants, but if ?e 


24!» 


sponge it off at once, for, the loaves being 
smooth, they are readily cleansed. 

If required to make a long succession of 
bloom, the most forward now showing flower 
may be placed under glass, to accelerate their 
blooming; and by taking in a few every week, a 
long succession may be secured. Keep the soil 
moist, but not wet, until the bloom fades and 
the foliage begins to turn yellow, then watering 
may cease; and if set out-of-doors, the pots 
must be turned on their sides, to prevent heavy 
rains from saturating the soil. When thoroughly 
ripened off they may be removed to a cellar or 
shed for repotting. I may mention that some 
who have no glass flower them beautifully in 
window and balcony flower stands, and winter 
the pots in a cellar. The small bnlbs they plant 


of some hardy annual kinds) are greenhouse 
evergreens, having large, woolly, lanceolate 
leaves, and when in fairly good health producing 
numbers of large trumpet-shaped flowers, mostly 
white or orange. The blooms, though useless 
for cutting purposes, are yet from their immense 
size very striking objects, a good bloom often 
measuring upwards of a foot in length, by five 
inches or more across. 

Their culture is very simple; they succeed 
well in pots under cool greenhouse treatment, 
though a considerable amount of root room is 
needed by plants that have attained the flower¬ 
ing size. They also grow very rapidly and 
flower freely, if planted out in a warm position 
and in good soil about the end of May. In the 
south of England, these plants will ttand out- 



Tho Brugnuuuls (Daturaj. 


out-of-doors, in well-prepared garden soil, in 
rows 1 foot 6 inches apart, and cover with a 
thick mulching of litter to exclude frost; after 
two years’ growth they are mostly fine flowering 
bulbs. It is drying off that renders Lily bulbs 
scarce, and keeping them out of the soil when 
they ought to be in it. To those who have failed 
I would say, try simple rational treatment, and 
avoid nostrums in the way of soils, manures, Ac., 
then the Lily will be found fully equal to all 
that has been said in its favour. J. G. 


THE BROGMANSIA 

(DATURA). 

The accompanying engraving represents a 
double-flowered form of this now-seldom-seen 
plant. The Brugmansias (with the exception 


of doors all the winter under ordinary circum¬ 
stances, if well protected by a heap of asbes 
round the roots, and a mat or two, and though 
the tops sometimes get cut quite down by 
frost, yet they rarely fail, if well established, to 
break up strongly from the root in spring. In 
cold or bleak localities, however, it is safer to 
take the plant up and place it in a good sized 
pot, in which it may be preserved through the 
winter in a greenhouse, or any other place that 
is safe from frost. The plants are somewhat 
subject to attacks of the red spider, but a free 
use of the syringe, combined with liberal culti¬ 
vation, will usually keep this pest at a distance. 
Several of the species, including the one now 
figured, are very sweetly scented ; this is more 
particularly noticeable towards vening. Most 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 














250 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Aug. 4, 1883. 


of the species bloom in the months of July or 
August.—13. C. H. [Our illustration represents 
a double form of llrugmansia Knighti, grown 
by Mr. llavenscroft, Granville Nursery, Lewis¬ 
ham.—E d.] 


BERRV-BEARING PLANTS. 

In winter, when flowers are scarce, berry-boaring 
plants are of great service, their brilliant colours 
coming in well for Christmas decoration. They 
are also more lasting than flowering plants, espe¬ 
cially as the latter are so readily injured by even 
a very brief exposure to sudden changes of tem¬ 
perature in removal to or from the glass 
structures in which they are reared; and for 
many kinds of decorations the berry-bearing 
class of plants is very appropriate, especially at 
Christmas and early in the new year in con¬ 
nection with evergreens. Foremost amongst 
berry-bearing plants must stand the 

Solanums, especially the varieties of capsicas- 
trum, of which Wetherill's hybrid is a good type. 
These Solanums are easily grown plants, and last 
a long time in good condition. The treatment 
which we find to answer best is to sow the seed 
in heat in January, and as soon as the young 
plants are large enough to pot them off into 
small pots, then into 3-inch ones, pinching the 
points off as soon as they make three or four 
pairs of leaves, in order to induce a bushy habit. 
By the end of May they will do well in a frame 
or old Cucumber bed, where they can be kept 
moist by syringing when shut up for the day. 
They may be shifted into 5-inch or C-inch pots 
in June, using a mixture of turfy loam, leaf-soil, 
or decayed manure, and sand. They will rapidly 
develop into fine bushy plants, and in July and 
August, when flowering aDd setting their crop of 
berries, they must be kept fully exposed to the 
atmosphere, except in very heavy rain storms, 
when they are liable to get saturated. In that 
case push the lights over them, but tilt them up 
in order to secure a free circulation of air, so as 
to get a good set. In September they may be 
taken under glass, so that the berries may be 
thoroughly crimson by November. They then 
make excellent vase plants, or work in admirably 
for indoor or conservatory decoration, the berries 
being specially attractive under artificial light. 
There are several varieties of Solanums, but the 
same mode of culture answers for all. After 
their fruiting is over they may be cut down close, 
and started into growth in March in a gentle 
heat, repotting and growing them on as before. 
They thus make fine specimens the second 
season. Of the annual kinds with yellow berries 
—of which Prince of Wales is the type—there 
are many varieties. They, however, require 
more heat in winter than the others ; while the 
hard-wooded capsicastrum will stand for weeks 
in a cold house in winter if frost is excluded ; 
the more tender yellow-berried sorts will shed 
their leaves. The same treatment in their early 
stages of growth as is given to the others will 
suit them well; but they are best raised from 
seed sown in February and March, and grown 
on in frames until September, when they must 
be taken into an intermediate house, where the 
temperature is kept about 50°. The best way 
with this kind is to run them up to single stems 
and then allow the top to spread out, and when 
loaded with lemon-coloured fruits they contrast 
well with the more erect habited scarlet-berried 
varieties. 

Capsicum Little Gem, a dwarf variety, with 
berries freely produced from the axil of every 
leaf, promises to become a very popular variety. 
Its berries are about as large as Currants, and 
very bright and attractive. Rivina humilis is 
one of the very best of berry-bearing plants, and 
easily raised from seed. It requires a stove 
temperature, a light, rich compost, and heat and 
moisture. It produces long spikes of tiny white 
flowers, quickly succeeded by brilliant scarlet 
berries that glisten as if varnished. Ardisia 
crenulata is another useful plant, producing 
scarlet berries, and one variety bears white 
berries. A compost of peat, loam, and 6and suits 
both kinds well, and they should have a stove 
temperature, with plenty of moisture. Great 
care is necessary to keep mealy bug at bay, for 
if once it gets a lodgment in the bunches of 
berries, it quickly spoils their appearance. 

AtjcubAK of various sorts, if carefully fer¬ 
tilised, make valuable berry-bearing plants if 
placed under the cqver of glass to get the berries 
of a bright col(4r befoxs C;ijsta|ms,>wben, from 


their hardy character, they come in well for 
positions where tenderer plants cannot safely be 
employed. Iris feetidissima is another of the 
hardy section, with Rush-like foliage and large 
seed-pods that burst open and show their 
brilliant colour, and may be utilised to assist 
for the winter display. G. 


Lapagerias —The Lapageria strongly ob¬ 
jects to close soil; it does best in rough turfy 
peat and a little loam, but it must have an abun¬ 
dance of drainage. Some planters take all the 
fine soil from the peat, but whether they plant out 
or in a pot, they sprinkle some silver sand among 
the peat when planting. In cases where the 
Lapageria has been successfully planted out a 
pit has been made with plenty of drainage at the 
oottom, and when planting out, pieces of char¬ 
coal and some broken crocks were thrown in, not 
exactly mixed with the soil, but added in little 
groups, so forming kinds of air chambers, and 
into these it is found the roots run freely. The 
roots of the Lapageria are very wiry and brittle, 
so that it is necessary that they are not shifted 
oftener than is necessary, and therefore, it is 
much better to plant out than to cultivate in 
pots. But a good depth and freedom of drainage 
is absolutely necessary, and when that is perfect 
the plant can scarcely be over-watered, and at 
the growing season the more liberally it is 
applied the better. Slugs are very fond of the 
young shoots of the Lapageria, and if not kept 
in check will eat them off as they come through 
the soil. The Lapageria throws up strong succu¬ 
lent shoots from the roots when in a flourishing 
condition, and it is these which furnish and 
extend the surface of flowering wood. If these 
are prevented from developing, much is lost. 
Slugs should therefore be carefully looked for. 
One grower uses short glass tubes to place over 
the points of the shoots as they are seen coming 
up through the soil, and in this way prevents 
harm from vermin. It is probably true that 
some varieties of I,, rosea are more floriferous 
than others, but culture has something at least 
to do with freedom of bloom. Starved and 
neglected plants will be certain to disappoint, 
but those that are well looked after and are kept 
clean and healthy will bloom abundantly. Plants 
that appeared to be sparing of flowers have 
bloomed freely when subjected to an improved 
system of culture.—R. 

Pimeleas. — These distinct and beautiful 
plants are quite as suitable for greenhouse deco¬ 
ration as they are for the purpose for which they 
are usually grown—to exhibit, or even more so, 
for so free is their natural disposition to flower 
that they bloom profusely when only occupying 
7-inch or 8-inch pots. Another matter of im¬ 
portance when for ordinary use is that they 
require next to no artificial training, or the use 
of numerous sticks and ties, as if sufficiently 
cut back each season after blooming they will 
all but support themselves without sticks. The 
elegant drooping habit of the flower-shoots 
bearing their distinct heads of bloom makes 
them contrast well with most other plants. The 
principal cause of their not being more generally 
grown I take to be the unsatisfactory condition 
they usually get into through the ravages of red 
spider, which in the summer months is almost 
sure to attack them if means are not taken to 
keep the pest down. Regular drenching daily 
with the syringe is indispensable to keep the 
plants clean; not simply sprinkling them, but 
getting the water in quantity to the undersides 
of the leaves. Ordinary attention in the other 
matters of potting, air-giving, and general treat¬ 
ment, such as is found to answer for other hard- 
wooded greenhouse stock, is all 1’imeleas require, 
with the addition of much more water to the 
roots in the growing season than will suffice for 
others of a hard-wooded character. Being 
mostly spring flowerers, I’imeleas whilst young 
often get their potting deferred through a sup¬ 
position that it will interfere with their blooming; 
where such has been the case, and they ate at ail 
underpotted, they should at once have a shift, 
for if kept too long cramped at the roots they 
get into a stunted condition, which stops their 
future progress. 

Notes on propagating.— No time must 
now be lost in putting in cuttings of all kinds of 
stove plants required ; for if longer delayed, the 
wood becomes too hard to root readily. I refer 
to such subjects as Crotons, Ixoras, Dipladenias, 1 
and Francisceas. Ixoras I find root best when 1 


a large proportion of peat is nsed in the soil, say 
two parts peat to one each of loam and sand. 
The whole must be sifted fine and pressed down 
firmly, leaving just enough space for a layer of 
sand on the top. Of course as good drainage is 
necessary, the pots will need to be filled within 
2 inches of the top with broken crocks. Fem 
spores sown in spring will need attention in the 
way of pricking off, the aim being to get them 
as large as possible before winter. Of Oleanders 
there are now many beautiful varieties, the 
whole of which may be readily struck from 
cuttings during the summer months. The two 
principal points to be observed are first, not 
allowing the cuttings to become too bard before 
taking them off, and secondly, giving them 
plenty of water at all times ; indeed they will 
emit roots freely in water alone, or, better still, 
in watertight pans of wet sand, but in either of 
these cases care is necessary in potting them off, 
as the roots are so brittle that they are easily 
broken. Such being the case, the better way 
is to put them in pots of sandy soil, and keep 
them close and moist till rooted. Another 
common subject, but one that many fail to 
strike satisfactorily, is the Lemon-scented Ver¬ 
bena (Aloysia citriodora); the failures in this 
case generally result from using wood in too 
matured a condition. The best way is to take 
the succulent growths in the spring as soon as 
they are long enough, and treat them just as one 
would Fuchsias, Verbenas, and similar plants, 
when, with the exception of requiring a little 
additional care to guard against damp, they root 
as readily as the others just mentioned. Later 
in the summer, if cuttings are required, the 
better way is to put a plant into a close, warm 
house, when it will at once start afresh, and 
when of sufficient size use the young shoots as 
cuttings.— T. 


Cotoneaster microphylla.— This ever¬ 
green shrub, with its small neat leaves and pro¬ 
fusion of white flowers, opens in April and May, 
and, succeeded by little red wax-like berries, is, 
when either in flower or fruit, very ornamental. 

It will succeed in almost any kind of soil, and is 
altogether one of the most accommodating of 
plants. It will submit to any kind of training, 
soon effectively covering the fronts of dwelling- 
houses or other buildings. It will also conceal 
an unsightly wall or other object,festoon a ruin, 
or clothe roots of trees or blocks of stone in the 
hardy fernery or wild garden with verdure. If a 
single specimen of this plant is desired upon a 
lawn or elsewhere, a stake should be driven into 
the ground to the desired height, and to this the 
plant should be trained in the form of a pyramid, 
or as a standard with a clean stem of any desired 
height. It may also be grown in the form oE a 
hedge, and as such it has a remarkably neat and 
attractive appearance. In forming such a fence 
the best method is to fix a strong wire to the 
ends of stout stakes driven into the ground at 
the distance of a few feet from each other; the 
leading shoots should be fastened to the wire 
and allowed to grow down the other side until 
they reach the ground, into which they will soon 
root, and a substantial hedge may thus soon be 
formed, which will submit to any necessary cut¬ 
ting or clipping. The plant may be increased by 
seed, but more rapidly by cuttings; indeed, it 
roots so freely that whenever a branch comes in 
contact with moist soil, it soon emits roots into 
it. Therefore rooted branches may always be 
had, which, when separated from the parent 
bush, soon become established plants.—P. G. 


House slops. —It would, indeed, be unfor¬ 
tunate were any ill-informed readers to adopt 
the theory that fatty substances, even when found 
in the soapy solution known as soapsuds, can be 
useful as manure. It is in no sense a vegetable 
constituent, but what is most objectionable is 
the way in which its application fouls the soil 
with slime or grease, so that its pores are choked 
and impervious to both air and moisture. All 
house slops may be used as an irrigant to coarse- 
growing crops, such as Cabbages, Celery, Peas, 
Beans, or amongst trees and shrubs ; but always 
after a good soaking has been given, and the soil 
is somewhat dried, the surface should be stirred 
to prevent its getting slimy and baked. As wo 
have before said, the free application of house 
slops in wet weather will do more harm than 
good. There can bB no better nse for them 
at such times than throwing them over a big 
heap of garden refuse or of long fresh m'anun 




Digitized by 


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Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



252 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Aug. 4, 1883. 


house (on the south and east) In the spring or early 
summer. May they be planted out in the autumn ? Or, 
if it is necessary to keep them out of the ground during 
the winter, what is the earliest months they should be 
planted out ? Crocuses and Daffodils do remarkably well 
in the same border.—M. B. 

10099.— ArrangiDgr a fernery —Will some reader 
kindly advise me as to the best way of arranging the in¬ 
terior of a small fernery, size 6 feet 10 inches by 8 feet; 
one side is a brick wall, two sides have hot water pipes 
running round, the other side is the partition (wooden) 
between the greenhouse, and fernery, in the middle of 
which is a door ?— Peg. 

10100.—Iron hook in Ash tree.—I have a fine 
Weeping Ash, into which, last year, a carpenter put a 
larpe iron hook for the support of a hammock. This 
year the foliage is lar thinner than usual, I fear ou 
account of the hook. Would it be well to wrench it out, 
or would it make matters worse ?— Blackheath. 

10101.—Destroying water beetle*.—I should be 
grateful if any reader of Gardening could tell me if there 
is any method by which water beetles can be destroyed 
in a small lake. They eat up all the Water Lily leaves 
and leave a kind of spawn formed in a ring full of eggs. 
—Water violet. 

10102.—Cuttings of Sweet Williams.—Will the 
young Bhoots now pushing up from the b*ae of my old 
plants of Sweet Williams make flowering plants for next 
year if taken off and treated as cuttings, or would they 
live and flower next year if 1 simply cut down old stems 
and then left the stools alone ?—T. J. W. 

10103.— Plants for small greenhouse. — Would 
any of vour readers kindly give me a list of flowering 
and flne-foifaged plants suitable for a small greenhouse 
in my backyard? It has a western aspect, but does not 
get much sun, owing to its being in a recess — Ebor. 


further reason why sections should be removed 
as soon as completed, for if left on after comple¬ 
tion, the spotless whiteness of the comb is marred 
by the heat and traffic of the bees over them. 
The honey within the comb, when held to the 
light, should present an amber colour, brightness, 
and transparency. Care should be taken to 
prevent granulation of honey after removal from 
the hive ; this may be effected by keeping it in a 
somewhat warm temperature. All sections in 
each exhibit should match in style of work, 
quality and colour. Sections should be glazed on 
either side, and the glass so attached that it 
can be easily removed for the examination 
of the honey by the judges. If sections are 
exhibited in glazed crates, the glazing of the 
sections is not necessary; these travelling crates 
are very nice things in which to send sections to 
shows. They are glazed on two sides, so that the 
contents are visible, and present a very attractive 
appearance when filled with well-finished 
sections. The demand for honey is rapidly 
increasing, and that which presents the neatest 
appearance finds the readiest sale at the various 
shows. Extracted or run honey should be put up in 
clear glass jars; it is important that the glass 
be clear, otherwise the appearance of the honey 
is spoiled. Each jar should have an attractive 
label, and be tied down with vegetable parch¬ 
ment, which if moistened with the white of an 


10104.—Fungus on Rose leaves.—I Bhould feel 
obligod If someone could inform me of a remedy for the 
above. It attacked one small Rose bush last summer, 
and this summer it has attacked about fifty standards 
and some bushes indiscriminately.— Shokij dryness. 

10105.—Plants for front garden.—I should be glad 
to know what kind of plants would be most likely to 
succeed in my small front garden? It has an eastern 
aspect, and is slightly shaded by trees.— Ebor. 

1010C.—Storing Pears and Apples.—Can any 
reader tell me the cause of Pears cracking before ripe ou 
the tree ; also the cause of Apples and Pears shrivelling 
after being gathered and stored away in autumn?—O swald 
Footb. 

10107.—Grevillea Pressl.—I would be glad to know 
how to treat a Grevillea Pressi. The foliage resembles 
that of the “Old Man” plant. I find it dies off after 
flowering about the same time every year.—H. B. B. 

10108.—Planting Tulips.—I have some red Tulip 
bulbs. When am I to plant them for blooming next 
year? Will they require manure; if so, what kind?— 
Fons. 

10109.—Plants for the seaside.—What flowers or 
shrubs will grow in a small sheltered garden by the sea 
on chalk soli, and what should be done this month to 
make it bright for the autumn ?—Sandy Wiffles. 

10110.—Seedling Sumachs.—I find beneath my 
.Sumach tree some self-sown seedlings. When should I 
transplant them where they would have space to grow ? 
M. F. 

loiil.—Plants for back wall of greenhouse. 
—What plants, grown in pots, are suitable for covering 
the back wall of lean-to greenhouse facing west? The 
wall Is built of common red brick.—W. S. 

10112 .-Transplanting Lily of the Valley.— 
At what time of the year is it beat to transplant roots of 
Lily of the Valley?—M. F. 

10113.—Preserving cut flowers.-What is the 
best plan for preserving cut flowers in water in small 
vases as long as possible ?—D. H. 

10114.—Heating by paraffln.-Can a greenhouse be 
heated by a paraffin stove, and what effect, if any, would 
it have on Vines, Cucumbers, and flowers ?— Locxett. 

lOilG.-Azalea cuttings.—Can any reader Inform 
me the best time and way of striking Azalea cuttings ?— 


BEES. 

SEASONABLE NOTES. 

Owing to the honey harvest beiDg so abundant 
this season (probably more so than it has been 
for many years, taking the country through), the 
bee and honey shows now taking place in various 
parts of the country are likely to be well supplied, 
still all who can should exhibit, and so assist in 
promoting a general interest in bee keeping as a 
new home industry. 

Exhibiting at honey shows —Care should 
be taken to let all honey exhibits present as neat 
and attractive appearance as possible. Sections 
of comb-honey should be quite filled, all the cells 
being sealed; the surfaces of combs should be 
quite even. This evenness of surface is attained 
by the use of dividers between the section boxes, 
which allow but quarter of an inch at the top 
and bottom for the passage of the bees, thus all 
projections or bulgings are obviated. Sections 
should be removed from the hive immediately 
on completion, before the capping of the cells 
is thickened by the bees, thinness of capping 
being considered by judges one of the chief 

itenesa 
and a 


points of perfepti^n in super hpney. 
of comb 5 '* ’ ‘ ‘ “ 


is ^oy^r^iuip^^|t^eatui 


egg immediately before being lied over the 
honey jar, an almost perfect sealing will be 
formed, permitting to be sent on a journey with¬ 
out danger of leakage. 

Manipulation of live bees is practically 
illustrated at these shows, the best methods 
being shown of driving bees, capturing the 
queen, transferring combs from sleeps to bar- 
frame hives, &c., which take place in a specially 
constructed bee tent, in which visitors can view 
with safety the mysteries of the hive, and witness 
the perfect command the scientific apiarian has 
over his bees. Demonstrations in advanced 
straw hive management are also made, showing 
how perfectly unnecessary is the ancient practice 
of destroying bees in order to obtain their 
honey. With these bee keepers’ associations 
spending their energies in diffusing a knowledge 
of these things throughout the country, at the 
various agricultural and horticultural shows, few 
can say they have no opportunities of gaining an 
education in modern bee-keeping. S. 8. G. 

Boxivorth. 


Ducks — Quack.— The number of eggR laid 
by your duck, viz., 400 from November 1881 to 
June 1883 is certainly above the average. You 
do not say whether they are of the common kind 
or not. A few details as to your system of 
feeding, housing, &c., would prove acceptable to 
other fanciers.— Andalusian. 


- - ■ 

(1 LIMBING HONEYSUCKLE covered with 

beautifully Bweet-scented flowers all summer and scarlet 
berries in winter; for summer houses, arches, trellis work 
4c. Six well rooted plants, post free. In 3d : 12 for Is. 9d. 
Carefully packed.—THOS. P. MAY, 44, North Street, Horn- 

castle. _ 

"PERN ROOTS.—Hardy Lincolnshire Fern 
■L roots, very flue and massive, for rockeries and ferneries, 
price 25 for 2s. 6d., 50 for 4s. 6d.; several are worth Is. each. 
Each one warranted to flourish; assorted varieties; carefully 
packed.—THOS. P, MAY, 44, North Street, Homoastle, 

■"TRAILING 1YY for window boxes, arches, 
-L trellis work, &c. Six well rooted sprays, post free. Is, 
Warranted and selected.—THOS. P. MAY, 44, North Street, 
Horn castle. 


Choice Plants Cheap 

rjINERARlAS. Sutton’s and Carter's sturdy 
yJ seedlings. Is. 3a. doz., 2 doz., 2s. ; Primulas, Veitchs, 
Sutton’s, and Carter's, and Calceolarias, Is. 6d. doz.; Bou- 
vardias—Alfred Neuner, 9d. each: B. Humboldti corymbi- 
flora, large white flowers, deliciously scented, 6<t each. 4s. 
doz ; Begonias Ruckeri and nitlda, 2 for Is.; Cyclamen, large 
conns, 28. 6d. doz.; Gloxinia seedlings, choice, Xs. doz.; 
Libonia floribuada and Heliotropes for winter flowering, 3 for 
Is. ; Pansies, to include Lord Beaconsfield, Is. doz. ; Wall¬ 
flowers, choicest sorts, 20 for Is. ; Dianthus, six varieties, 24 
for Is.; Lavender, large plants, 12 for Is. Send for Catalogues, 
free. All plants value Is. and upwards free. All plants 
racked in d^rnp Moss. Fragile plants in tin boxes.—JAMES 
LOOME3, F.R.H.S., The Nurseries, Whlttletey, near Peter¬ 
borough. 

pLKARLNG PRICES of DAHLIAS.—Single 

yJ (Ware's), no seedlings, 2s. 6d. doz. ; doubles, fancy, Bhow, 
and Pompone, 1«. 9d. doz.. all from single pots; Lapageria 
rotea. Is. 4d. each ; tuberous Begonias, splendid blooms, 
5 inches across, six. Is. 3d.: Begonia discolor Rex. two, Is.; 
Lemon Verbena’, Begonia Weltoniensis (pink), ditto nitida 
(white), Salvia azurea. all 2a. doz.; true old Fuchsia fulgena, 
four, 1 b. ; Palm-leaved ornamental Grass, six. Is.; Canneil's 
new double Marguerites (18S3). white and dear yellow, 6d. 
each; also new single Chrysanthemums (1883). Yellow Gem 
and Magenta King. 6d. each, all Btrong and free.—HENRY 
4 CO., Chigwell Row, Eager. _ 

ANTIRRHINUMS and Phlox Drumirondi 

Ex (Dobbie’s strain), splendid plants, mixed colours, 7d. per 
Bcore, free.—J. COWwILL, James Street, Hindsford, 
Tyldesley. 


T)Y PARCELS POST DELIVERY.-Splendid 

JJ winter blooming Geraniums, best varieties, all colour* 
true to name and well rooted. Bafely packed in boxes, 10 
grand plants all distinct, package and carriage free, P.O. 3s. 
—QEO. BOYE8 4 OO., Ayleatone Park, Leicester. 


OTRIKE CUTTINGS out-of-doors in July and 

kJ August for strong plants to winter in cold bouses or 
frames, dibble 3 inches apart in road grit. Geranium?, 
splendid cuttings, all colours. E<Jmund Lequin. Mdme. A 
Baltet. Rev. Atkinson, Asa Gray. Mrs. Leavere, Wonderful, 
Mrs. Bklpworth, Haidec, Jewel, Fille fle rHoun«»ur; one of 
each. Is., post free.—GEORGE B0YE8 4 CO., Nurserymen 
Ayleatone Park, Leicester. _ 

PELARGONIUMS, strong cuttings, good cut- 

L tings.—Lady Isabelle (new). Rosy Gem, Picturata, Mer- 
in ion, Dijgby Grand, La Patrle, Duchess of Bedford. Duke of 
Albany, Bertie Boyes: one of each, Is., post free — GKOBGE 
BOY E8 4 CO., Nurseryman, Ayiestone Park , Leicestei. 

A URICULAS.—Named show varieties 15s. 
■lx doz ; list on application. Seedling Auriculas (fine). 
Is. 9d t>er doz. Pansies, choice named fancy varieties, 2s. M. 
doz Phlox, herbaceous, named varieties, 3s. per doz.—G. W. 
WHEELWRIGHT, Oldswipford, Stourbridge. _ 

'TOBACCO CLOTH.—The best insecticide, be- 
I cause Bates t, most effectual, and cheapest: may be used 
in solution as well as for fumigating, Is. 2d. per lb., post free. 
—A. J. A. BRUCE. 


TWTUSHROOM SPAWN, original mill track, 

J-YL prepared by special process known only to the maker, 
produces invariably thick, fleshy Mushrooms, per brick. 91. 
post free; per busnel (16 bricks), 9a, carriage and package 
free.— A. J. A. BRUCE. _ 

HERANIUM FREAK OF NATURE, new, a 

vA charming plant, should be possessed by everyone; its 
varieg a tion is unique.—A. J. A. BRUCE. _ 

pRIMULAS, from a noted Continental strain, 
X 12 distinct varieties, 2s.; 12 Boris, named, 2s. 6d., free; 
very fine Bturdy plants; strong plants out of 60s., 3s- 
A. J. A. BRUCE. 


WALLFLOWERS and SWEET WILLIAMS. 

v * —Plant now to have strong plants to stand winter. 
Wallflower Blood, very fine dark variety, per doz. 9d.; 
mixed, 9d. Sweet 'William, a very fine strain.—A. J. A. 
BRUCE. 


PLANTS FOR SUSPENDING BASKETS 

-L AND BRACKETS.—The following six will give great 
satisfaction in greenhouse or window; all very distinct; 
Lysimachia aurea, golden yellow leaves aud flowers, 9d. ; 
europa, 9d . a very dense growing trailer of great beauty ; 
Isolepsis gracilis, Oxalis Acvtosella, 7d. ; Saxifraga Bar¬ 
men tosa, 6d.; double and Bingle Ivy-leaved Geraniums. 6tl ; 
all free; one of each of the six, 3 j. 4tL, free.—A. J. A. 
BRUCE. 


TIYDRANGEA HORTENSIS. - Heads of 

■LI tlowera have measured this season 15 in. through ; ono 
or the very best greenhouso plants grown; very hardy. Cut¬ 
tings struck now will bloom early in spring. 12 strong cut- 
tings 3a.. free.—A. J. A. BRUCE. _ 

T50UVARDIA HUMBOLDTI, the largest and 

■U sweetest Bouvardia grown; pure white; nearly as laige 
as Stephanotis; does well in greenhouse ; strong cuttings, is. 
per doz.; strike freely in Band and water in a warm place. 
Cash should accompany all orders—A. J. A. BRUCE, 
Nurseryman, Ac., Chorlton-cam-Hardy, Manchester. 


HARDEN GAY ALL WINTER. — Sisley’s 

VT winter Wallflowers commence blooming in November, 
continuing all winter; plant immediately; surpass all other 
varieties. 25 plants. Is. 9d., free; 5a. 6d. 100.—JOHN R. 
F LOW ER. Retford._ 

OK CHOICE PLANTS, 2s., free, to supply cut 
VJ flowers all year round.—10 Sweet Williams (fine dazriing 
colours), 10 winter Wallflowers, 5 choice Hollyhocks, 5 Carna¬ 
tions, 5 Picotees, carefully packed.—JOHN R. FLOWER, 
Retford, Notts._ _ 


O WEET WILLIAMS.—Magnificent strain, in- 

O tense crimson, scarlet, white, 4c , immense blooms, 36 
plants Is. t*(L, free; 4s. 100, free; 100 assorted plants, 5 b., 
free. Wallflowers, Carnations. Picotees, Hollyhocks. Sweet 
Williams.—R. FL O WER, R et ford. 

Now Ready, price is., post free. Is 1<L 

POTATO CULTURE: ITS EXTENSION 

± AND IMPROVEMENT. 

BY 

AN OLD EXHIBITOR. 

With Advice as to the Beat Varieties for obtaiting 
Large Crops. 

“The information as to the best methods of cultivation i 
full and complete, although carefully and ably compressed.”- 
Leicesttr Journal. 

CASSELL 4 COMPANY, Limited, Ludgate Hill. Lnodor 


TTIRGXN CORK FOR FERNERIES AN] 

V CONSERVATORIES.—The cheapest and best bom 
in London.—GEORGE LOCKYER 4 CO., 13, High 8tie« 
Bloomsbury, W.O_ 


HREENHOUSES FOR THE MILLION.- 

VJ Portable Span-roof Villa Greenhouse, 10 feet by 7 fe< 
SA ; Lean-to, 75s.; Paxton Span-roof, 100b. ; Lean-to 95 
The Amateur, 50b. ; Conservatory, 12 feet by 8 feet, jE7 Coi 
plete, no extra charge for stages, 4c. Over 3000 erected 
all parts of the kingdom. Bee press opinions. Drawing? , 

Estimates given for Horticultural Buildimre _VnrkoW 

Horticultural Works, Windbill, Shipley. Yorkphiie • u 
High Blreet, Woo d Green , Lond on. ' U 

GREENHOUSE AND HOT^WATErThEa 

U ING APPARATUS for £5, that will grow 3C0 nlfr 
also Cucambers and Melons; clear the cost in one seas 
Send three stamps for Catalogue of greenhouse and heat 
apparatus from 6s.—Horticultural Works, Wood Grr 
London. 


FOR NOTHING I!! 

Monster clearance of WALL PAPERS. BILLOW port 
MANUFACTURE. UOST 

A Fine Assortment at £3 17s. 6d. per Ream of 

Other qualities at SURPRfsiNG “tA'cSS l iocc 
t:%- WHITE AT ONCE for pattern, of thwi " RPrrm 
OFFERS." Which wilfhe Bent POStVrvif C] 
A RARE OPPORTUNITY for Build ra»5d other. 
T. C. STOCK, 

8, VICTORIA STREET. BRISTOL. 








GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. v. 

AUGUST 11, 1883. 

No. 231. 

( 1 


THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE. 
Nearly every owner of a garden has a desire to 
possess himself of a greenhouse, and, as a rule, 
the smaller the garden the more likely is a green¬ 
house to be found therein. Many, however, who 
would be glad to have a greenhouse, are deterred 
from having one on account of the prevailing 
notion that a greenhouse must be heated with 
boilers and pipes, and give endless trouble on 
wintry nights, and run up long coal bills. Where 
a greenhouse is needed as a promenade or part 
sitting room in winter, it must, perforce, be 
heated; but where it is a greenhouse for the 
purpose of supplying out flowers or plants for 
decoration, &c., only, then heating is nnnecessary. 
So convinced are we that an unheated green¬ 
house can be really enjoyable and profitable, 
that we have thought well to get an amateur 
friend, who has been very successful iu this 
direction, to give us a series of articles on the 
management and advantages of the unheated 
greenhouse, and we have no doubt they will be 
both interesting and profitable to many of our 
readers.—E d. 

Advantages. 

If it be true, as Lord Bacon says, that “ Gar¬ 
dening is the purest of human pleasures, and 
the greatest refreshment to the spirit of man ” 
—and happily there is no lack of testimony that 
it is true—then surely it is a matter of re¬ 
joicing that, day by day, and year by year, the 
national taste and love for this innocent pursuit 
is growing and spreading amongst us. English¬ 
men and Englishwomen have always been lovers 
of their gardens, as is proved by the quaint old 
writings of Gerard and Parkinson more than 
three hundred years ago ; and what fairer evi¬ 
dence can we have that the same love is stronger 
than ever in every class amongst us to-day, than 
the enormous circulation of the cheap weekly 
paper. Gardening Illustrated, whose readers 
I now address, which has found its way into the 
dwellings of people of all ranks in the land ? 

It is true that for a good many years a mis¬ 
taken, not to say, debased, taste led to a style of 
gardening which had well nigh robbed us of all 
the poetry and grace which must always cling to 
the very name of a garden, with its sweet re¬ 
membrances—of sunny childhood running riot 
amongst the carefully-tended but not too tidy 
borders, full of old-fashioned Lilies and Roses, 
and Canterbury Bells—of maiden’s dreams and 
manly aspirations, and perchance, of the 
hallowed memories of later years. Yet we are 
thankfully returning to the good old ways, out- 
of-doors at any rate, and our gardens begin once 
more to look like gardens, instead of being stiff 
arrangements of geometrical patterns. But we 
English people are for ever going into extremes, 
and now it seems as if we were as likely to lose 
oar heads altogether over Orchid growing and 
hothouses as ever we did over the “ ribbon 
border ” and the bedding-out ” system, with this 
result, that every owner of a glass house 12 feet 
long (until perhaps he learns better) has a 
desire to turn it into a store, in which to grow 
hothouse exotics. 

No one interested in the subject can have 
failed to notice, and to notice with pleasure, the 
immense increase during the last thirty years of 
plant-houses of all descriptions as additions to 
every kind of dwelling. Leaving out of the 
question altogether the mansions of the wealthy, 
there is now scarcely a suburban villa, or a 
parsonage house, which is without its conserva¬ 
tory, wMle the cottage of many an artisan can 
boast its well-tended greenhouse or glass porch 
filled with bright flowers, often putting to shame 
more ambitious and pretentious erections. As a 
consequence of this, every gardeniag paper 
teems with advertisements, not only of plant 
houses and frames, but of every conceivable 
mode of heating them, while in the query 
column, question after question upon the latter 
well-worn subject of inexpensive heating reveals 
the fact of a great difficulty yet unsolved. 

The intention of the following papers is to 
offer some practical suggestions as to the 
management of such greenhouses in which it is 
neither convenient nor desirable to have a fixed 
heating apparatus, andir^which itis only intended 

Digitize GO gle 


to prevent the temperature from falling lower 
than 35°, or, in other words, simply to keep out 
frost. Such a system is so seldom advocated in 
the pages of any gardening journal, that it is 
worth while to introduce it, if only for the sake 
of variety. Nevertheless, it must be admitted 
that in the meantime public gardening opinion 
is against rather than for the cold greenhouse ; 
probably for this reason, that failures have 
occurred through a vain attempt to grow heat- 
loving plants at a lower temperature than they 
will bear, when of necessity failure must be a 
foregone conclusion. The whole secret of success 
lies in the right choice of plants for the purpose. 

I can safely state, from the personal experience 
of many years, that—given a love of plants and a 
certain amount of knowledge of their wants and 
capabilities—it is quite as possible to have a 
greenhouse from which frost is only just 
excluded as full of interest and of healthy 
foliage and flower from year’s end to year’s end, 
as it is to accomplish the same in a hothouse; 
but it cannot be expected that the plants which 
will thrive in the one will also thrive in the 
other. Let me say at once that it is not a 
question of cold houses v. hothouses that I wish 
to raise. Structures furnished with elaborate 
systems of hot water pipes and boilers, with a 
staff of gardeners to attend to the furnaces, are 
countless throughout the length and breadth of 
the land, and their uses and their charms are 
undisputed. The argument is simply one of 
suitability in the case of small gardens and of 
limited means. 

That the love of flowers is all but universal, 
we can see plainly enough. There are traces of 
it everywhere—in the “ button-hole ” of the 
city clerk, in the Geranium growing in the 
cracked teapot iu the back slums of the manu¬ 
facturing town, in the well-filled cottage window, 
bright with blossom. Every one who chooses 
may grow flowers in some form or other, and no 
other pursuit can give such common ground upon 
which all classes, gent, _■ and simple, may meet. 
But it is certain that ti- > more plants we grow, 
the more we wish to ;■ row, and while the few are 
able to satisfy e.-'ery longing, the many, 
undoubtedly, find: ,t the purse does not always 
keep pace with tb ? wishes. Yet, let a man once 
take to cultivatir r plants, and, sooner or later, 
the craving for plant-house will seize upon him 
relentlessly, ar 1 will give him no peace until it 
is satisfied. 1 be plants in the window get one¬ 
sided, or they bestow all their beauty upon the 
passers-by instead of upon their rightful owners ; 
or, may be, every available corner has been 
appropriated, and no more room remains in 
which plants can be safely bestowed. No matter 
what the reason is, the desire for a plant-house 
is sure to develop itself. In many cases it is 
easy to satisfy the craving and to build the 
house. Sometimes the would-be gardener has a 
turn for carpentering, and puts it up himself. 
Sometimes it is a £20 or a £30 structure, all 
ready to be put together, that is bought, or it 
may very possibly be that the purchase is on a 
much more ambitious scale. But in nine of 
such cases out of ten, the house is bought and 
set up without a thought having been given to 
that grievous stumbling block in the way of the 
amateur gardener—the heating apparatus. Here 
begin his difficulties, and hence those innnmer- 
able questions as to the best and cheapest 
method of “ heating a small greenhouse” which, 
one would think, must sorely try the ingenuity, 
no less than the patience, of the editor of the 
Gardening journal to which they are addressed. 
In most instances, it is not the first cost of the 
plant-house which is the difficulty, but the after 
and constantly recurring expenses and trouble 
connected with boiler and pipes and fuel, not to 
speak of the labour required to attend to them 
properly. This will be readily acknowledged by 
scores of amateur gardeners with limited means 
and space, who yet long to possess certain 
advantages in plant culture over and above those 
of which their garden borders will admit. 

“ But,” said a friend to me not long ago in 
discussing this subject, “ 1 thought that it was 
the boast of you hardy g ardeners that you can 
have flowers from the open ground every day in 
the year. Why advocate glass at all?” An 


argument perfectly reasonable so far as it goes. 
We can and do gather precious blossoms from 
our borders even in mid-winter j hut the clump 
of winter Crocus looking so lovely in violet and 
fawn in the sunshine to-day may be utterly 
destroyed by to-morrow's storm, the drooping 
purple of the delicate satin flower may be 
draggled and tom by pitiless wind or driving 
snow in a single night. In the open ground these 
must take their chance, afld we must enjoy them 
while we may; but afford them the simple 
shelter of glass and the same plants may be the 
delight of our eyes for weeks. Again, as our 
knowledge of plants extends, new winter-bloom¬ 
ing species are introduced, eg., the early- 
flowering Irises, several of which are too rare to 
be trusted to the open ground. And yet, again, 
how many are there known to us already which, 
by good management, can be forwarded, not 
forced, so as to shorten for ns the dreary winter 
days, and to hasten the sweet spring-tide. 
Therefore the answer which I made my friend 
was this—that the hardy gardener was the very 
person who could best appreciate and make use 
of the unheated greenhouse. 

In such a view of the subject, it is not unlikely 
that a few notes, gathered from the experience of 
a cold-house gardener, may be welcome to many 
who are disposed to consider the question. What 
can we do with a greenhouse in which there is no 
flue or heating apparatus. Let it be understood, 
then, that by a cold greenhouse, I mean one in 
which temporary means only are used for exclu¬ 
ding frost and damp during extreme severity of 
weather; and which is adapted to the cultivation 
of such half-hardy plants as cannot be said to be 
safe out of doors from the inclemencies of our 
variable English climate. For this purpose, I 
have tried many plans with more or less success, 
but that which answers best, and is thoroughly 
well adapted to the object in view, is a very 
simple but most ingenious little apparatus of 
recent invention, called by its originator, Mr. 
Gillingham, of Chard, a heat radiator. ” It con¬ 
sists merely of a brass or zinc cylinder supported 
by two standards, with a lamp suspended between 
them. Simple as it is, it is so contrived on scien¬ 
tific principles that it fulfils its purpose com¬ 
pletely. It is easily portable, inexpensive to 
buy in the first instance, and can be kept burning 
for twenty-four hours at a cost of about 2d., or 
it may be heated by gas without detriment to the 
plants. In the case of foggy, damp weather, or of 
very severe frost, the heat radiator is carried 
from its usual abiding place, in the hall, into the 
conservatory; the lamp, having been carefully 
trimmed (which is the one sine qua non in its 
management), is lighted, and in five minutes 
from the time it is suspended the temperature is 
raised. The air being thus set in motion, damp is 
gradually dissipated, and the thermometer never 
falls to freezing point, which is all I require. The 
radiator is never used in my conservatory unless 
actually necessary, but I find it an invaluable 
aid under certain circumstances. The lamp must 
be carefully trimmed according to the directions 
given, otherwise it is liable to smoke; but such 
an accident need never happen, and is entirely 
the result of carelessness. 

It is quite possible to do without even this 
small amount of heat; and unheated structures, 
on the principle of the orchard house, are in¬ 
valuable as winter gardens. But if the conser¬ 
vatory adjoins the house, and is entered from 
any of the sitting-rooms, it answers better to 
use just so much as will exclude frost. The 
mere shelter of glass will not do this, and even 
the hardiest of plants will look unhappy during 
a spell of hard weather, however quickly they 
may recover when a genial change comes. 
Besides which, it enlarges the list of the plants 
within our means of cultivation to an almost un¬ 
limited degree. With this prelude, let me begin 
at the beginning, and state three reasons why 
cold houses possess great advantages for 
amateurs with small gardens—small being, of 
course, a relative term inclusive of various 
degrees of size and requirements. 

Hirst .—Granted that the heating apparatus is 
properly fixed in the first place, which is very 
far from being always the case, as it is much 
more frequently done on the make-shift principle 





234 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Auo. 1 1, 1883. 


what then 1 Think of the exceeding difficulty 
in a small establishment, through ignorance or 
inexperience, of regulating the greenhouse fire. 
Who has not heard, in some rectory or villa 
garden, some such mournful complaint as 
Potter says that the lire went out last night in 
the greenhouse, just when it was most wanted 1" 
and its melancholy sequence of tender plants 
hopelessly frosted and ruined for the time 
being, if not killed out-right. Or who has not 
seen the shivering parson, or the enthusiastic, 
albeit reluctant, amateur gardener, well muffled 
up, lantern in hand, going out the last thing on 
a bitter winter's night to see if the boiler is 
doing its duty, and coming back with a dismal 
story of cold pipes and thermometer below freez¬ 
ing point J But of all plant-lovers, the unhappy 
lady who superintends her own garden or 
gardener (possibly gardener-groom), as the case 
may be, is perhaps under such circumstances the 
most to be pitied. Few ladies enjoy, or indeed 
are capable of, playing stoker themselves, and 
tewer still who are not either too soft-hearted or 
too much in awe of the aforesaid gardener to 
turn him out of his warm bed or chimney corner 
in order to set the matter to rights. But if such 
are the difficulties in keeping out the frost, what 
shall be said as to the regulation of heat ? For 
heat, in the hands of the unskiBed amateur, or 
inexperienced professional gardener, is as danger¬ 
ous as a little knowledge is proverbially said to 
be. Witness the long-drawn, weedy specimens 
of plants, covered with scale and green fly, which 
are too often the inmates of tbe'small green¬ 
house. For heat undoubtedly promotes the 
generation of blight, and blight, when it once 
gets ahead, requires more time and patience to 
dislodge than most amateurs are ready to give. 
Not long ago, a friend who is a great lover of 
plants, said to me in despair, "scale has some¬ 
how got such a footing here "—we were standing 
in a small hothouse—“that I see nothing for it 
but to turn everything out of the house—have it 
thoroughly cleaned, painted, and whitewashed 
—throw all the plants away and begin afresh." 
And this is far from being an isolated case, for 
how often one see; a miscellaneous collection of 
Orchids, Ferns, Begonias, Heaths, and Pelar¬ 
goniums each requiring different treatment, yet 
all simmering together in a parboiling heat 
much too strong for any of them. Surely 
Tennyson must have had some such house in his 
mind when he spoke of plants: 

“ By squares of tropic summer shut, 

And w&nn'd in crystal cases." 

" But these, though fed with careful dirt, 

Are neither green nor sappy; 

Half conscious of the garden squirt, 

The spindlings look unhappy." 

In my own greenhouses, where there is no 
heat beyond that used to exclude frost before 
mentioned, the healthiness of the plants is a 
matter of constant remark—a good result, 
mainly owing to the absence of an injuriously 
high temperature. Such troubles as above 
stated are freely and constantly acknowledged. 
Why should we not try to do away with them 
altogether ? 

Second .—Abrupt transitions, especially in 
winter and spring, from the heated plant-house 
to the chill damp of the outer air, are most 
prejudicial to health. The practical amateur 
gardener—and for such only these notes are in¬ 
tended—must needs be constantly, or at any 
rate, frequently subject to such transitions, and 
in very many instances this has been known to 
lead to positive and serious injury; whereas 
gardening should be the most healthful, as it is 
the most innocent, of recreations. Many a hard- 
worked professional man, and many a delicate 
woman of every rank, burdened with care or 
sorrow, can testify to the soothing influence of 
plant-tending upon the nerves, over excited or 
over taxed by the burry and rush of life in these 
high-pressure times. Why, then, should we lessen 
the advantages of such sweet and calming 
influencesOn the other hand, how pleasant 
and healthful is it to exchange the biting wind 
or cold, drizzling rain of an inclement winter's 
day for an hour or two in the genial tempera¬ 
ture and shelter of the cold greenhouse, where, 
at all seasons, there ought to be something to 
interest, and some work to be done. On the 
score, therefore, of health, I would recommend 
the unheated plant-house. 

Third.—The constant expense of fuel, ex¬ 
perienced labour, and repairs to boiler and pipes, 
in addition to thm-fifst cost of the heating 

Google 


apparatus. This difficulty may, of course, be 
considerably lessened where fuel is cheap, and 
where the master is his own man; but in places 
remote from the pit’s mouth and also from a 
railway station (as in my own case, where the 
carriage alone of every ton of fuel costs 8s. Cd.), 
such expenses become a serious tax, and may 
have to be avoided. Even where expense is no 
object, the money used in this way might be laid 
out to better purpose. For these reasons, amongst 
others, 1 cannot help thinking that cold green¬ 
houses offer certain advantages to the amateur 
which it would be well not to overlook. 

Ashmoiie. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


WATER LILIES. 

A well-developed plant or group of plants of 
the queenly English Water Lily (Nymphsea alba), 
floating its large leaves and noble flowers, is a 
sight not surpassed by any other in our gardens; 
but when it increases and runs over the whole 
or a large part of a piece of water, and thickens 
together and weakens in consequence, and the 
water-fowl cannot make their way through it 
without breaking pathways through the leaves, 
then even the queen of British water plants 
loses its charms. No garden water should be 
without a few fine plants or groups of the Water 
Lily, and if the bottom be too poor to allow of 
the free development of the plant, scrapmgs or 
rubbish might be accumulated in the spot where 
it was desired to exhibit the beauties of 


FORMING A ROCKERY AND FERNERY. 

10017.—The best arrangement will be to fix 
the artificial rocks so as to represent a natural 
deU as nearly as possible, by placing them so as 
to appear to crop out on each side and cross the 
stream in one or more ledges, dividing it into 
two or more pools. A small pool might be 
formed at the top of the dell, from which the 
water could fall over rocks into a large pool with 
one side steep and the other shelving, and from 
one corner of that the water might slip away 
down a sloping ledge or over stones by leaps to 
a third and smaller pool on a lower level. This 
will be a good imitation of a natural dell in a 
rocky country. The prettiest way will be to 
make the upper surfaces of the rocks incline 
slightly backwards against the course of the 
stream. 

As to material, always choose unstratified 
rocks in preference to stratified; they are more 
irregular in their natural state, and can be more 
easily imitated, and have this advantage, that all 
the pretty Mosses and Lichens cling to them and 
cover their surfaces, which they do not do on 
sandstone or limestone. Choose granite, or basalt, 
known as whinstone in the north, if either can 
be had. Of Ferns, plant Osmunda regalis in a 
sunny neok in boggy soil; it is the largest and 
stateliest of our native Ferns, and requires 
room. If a shady, moist nook can be arranged, 
which the sun never touches, plant there our 
native Maiden-hair Fern. If the rocks are ar¬ 
ranged so as to provide damp ledges round the 
pools, plant there Cystopteria montana, the 



Common Yellow Water Lily (Nuphar lutes). 


Nymphiea. Thus arranged, it would not spread 
too much. 

But it is not difficult to prevent the plant from 
spreading; indeed, we have known isolated 
plants and groups of it remain almost the same 
size for years, and where it increases too much, 
reduction to the desired limits is of very easy 
accomplishment, either by cutting off the leaves 
or getting at the roots in the bottom. The 
Water Lily is seen to greatest advantage in 
a small group a few yards from the margin 
of the water; but isolated groups or single 
plants always look well, no matter where they 
are placed. It should also be remembered that 
small groups and individual plants always pro¬ 
duce finer foliage and flowers when thus isolated 
than when crowded together. In small gardens, 
even in the smallest, it is easy to grow the Water 
Lily in a tank sunk in the Grass, or even a large 
tub, with very moist soil. Such, sunk in a little 
lawn and the margin of the receptacle hidden, 
affords a very good way of growing the Water 
Lily, and one in which it looks better than where 
there is a crowd of it spreading over an acre of 
a pond. 

After the white Water Lily, the yellow Water 
Lily is our most important native aquatic plant. 
It is worthy of a place in all artificial waters, 
grouped with the Water Lily (Villarsia) and the 
great yellow Water Lily (Nupharadvena), which 
is a native of America. The yellow Water Lily 
(Nuphar lutea) is a native of many parts of 
Europe and Britain, chiefly in slow streams and 
pools. The flowers appear nearly throughout 
the summer; they are much smaller than those 
of the white Water Lily, and rise a little above 
the surface of the water. The dwarf yellow 
Water Lily (N. advena pumila) is a variety 
smaller in all its parts, and found in a few 
localities in Scotland. The yellow Water Lilies, 
like the white ones, are not seen to advantage 
when allowed to become crowded in the water. 


Vol. I. " Gardening ” Is out of print, and we are 
therefore unable to further supply either separate copies 
or bound volumes. 


Mountain Bladder Fern; it is a creeping Fern 
resembling a very much reduced and refined 
edition of the common Bracken. It inhabits 
very wet ledges of rocks in one or two localities 
in the Grampians. It is not at all difficult to 
grow. My sister grew it for six or seven years 
in hanging baskets of Sphagnum, kept con¬ 
stantly moist by the drip from skeins of wool 
hanging over the edge of glass cups filled with 
water; it had of course to be constantly divided, 
as its creeping rhizome could not run far in 
such confinement. Less nice about situation 
so long as they have moisture and shade, are 
Cystopteris fragilis, 1 foot high ; Lastrea femula, 
2 feet; I’olystichum angulare, from 2 feet to 
5 feet; Blechnum spicant and Hart's-tongue, J8 
inches; these should be planted in well drained 
pockets in the rookwork, filled with peaty soil. 

Polystichum aculeatum is a good Fern for the 
upper parts of the rockwork, although it will 
grow in very damp places. I found it once 
growing luxuriantly in a little patch of wet 
mud half-way up a rock, and completely over¬ 
hung with foliage. All these have the tufted 
growth we usually associate with the idea of a 
Fern. All are native species. Of flowering 
plants, Mimulua, or Monkey Flowers, of all kinds 
luxuriate in damp situations, but care must be 
taken not to aUow them to run to seed, or they 
will become wild flowers down the stream for 
miles. Iris sibirica has grassy leaves which are 
nearly evergreen ; Melpomene, alba, altissima, 
and grandiflora are the most striking varieties. 
Plant these so that their roots can reach water. 
There being plenty of leaf-mould available, 
American Wood Lilies (Trillium) can be grown 
on any level ground round the gully, as well as 
Wood Anemones, several Spirajas, Dog's-tooth 
Violets, Lady’s Slippers, and many terrestrial 
Orchids of great beauty, requiring various 
degrees of moisture and shade. The variegated 
Cornish Moneywort (Sibthorpia europiea) is a 
good plant for moist rocks. In the sunnier and 
drier parts, the double and single varieties of the 
common Primrose wiD answer if well supplied 
with leaf-mould, and if any dry ledges with a 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Digitize! 















Aug. 11, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


255 


sunny exposure can be arranged, Wallflowers 
and dwarf Antirrhinums should be planted there. 

J. D. 


FRUIT AND FLOWERS FOR GARDEN. 

9915.—Having a deep, rich soil, and plenty of 
sand to lighten it where required, anything can 
be grown that will stand the climate, provided 
there is a good water supply and plenty of 
manure is available. The work that takes time 
in a garden is the labourer's work ; cutting the 
grass, watering, digging, hoeing, and weeding. 
One day a week is ample time to do all the 
nicities that require skill and attention. As the 
greater part of the soil is rich and deep, the best 
plan would be to stock a good part of the garden 
with plants which prefer a rich soil, but as many 
beautiful flowers prefer lighter stuff, a few beds 
or a border or two should be made lighter. All 
fruit trees and bushes will do well. Straw¬ 
berries should be planted in the heavy soil. Be¬ 
ginners should avoid all troublesome and tender 
things, and be content with plants of easy cul¬ 
ture until they know something of the growth 
and management of plants. Plant, for instance, 
the common Columbine and Aquilegia chry- 
santha before attempting A. ccerulea and A. 
glandulosa, and the more robust seedling and 
bedding Pansies before purchasing plants of the 
named varieties. 

Slake great use of hardy biennials to begin 
with. Canterbury Bells and Sweet Williams 
sown now and pricked ont where they are to 
bloom as soon as large enough will make fine 
plants the following season. Sweet Sultan and 
East Lothian Stocks may be treated in the same 
way. Carnation Poppies make a grand show in 
June if sown where they are to bloom about the 
first week in September. 

Plant in September Day Lilies, Daffodils, Nar¬ 
cissus, Tulips, Scillas, Daisies, Iris orientalis, 
Star of Bethlehem, Polyanthuses, Fair Maids of 
France and Columbines, Globe flowers, and 
Spineas in half-shady places, and with these 
Pyrethrum roseum in variety. In lighter soil, 
plant English and Spanish Iris, Pinks, Carna¬ 
tions and Primroses, Tiger Lilies, Lilium davu- 
ricum, and L. Thunbergianum, and some clumps 
of Tigridia pavonia (1 inches deep in well- 
inanured soil, which protect from frost by means 
of dry coal ashes or cocoa-nut fibre refuse. In 
equally well-prepared but lighter soil, and where 
they will be shaded from the noonday sun after 
May, plant clamps of Anemone apennina, A. 
fulgens, A. coronaria, and A. stellata, single and 
double. If there is a shady place and plenty of 
leaf-mould can be had, plant there Hepaticas in 
variety, and Anemone nemorosa, single and 
double. 

As soon as the heavy frosts are over in Bpring, 
plant Gentiana acaulis in rich, moist soil; Genm 
ooccineum plenum, Delphinums in variety; 
French Pseonies, Gladiolus communis, G. Col- 
villei, and G. ramosus in variety. These are 
almost hardy, and only require protection from 
very severe frosts. In April plant early or sum¬ 
mer-flowering Chrysanthemums, Phloxes, and 
Pentstemons; the last can scarcely be omitted 
from a garden of rich soil, although it is safest 
to keep cuttings of them in a cold frame during 
winter. 

If Wallflowers and Antirrhinums are liked, a 
light bod well mixed with old mortar should be 
made for them. Roses will do famously, and 
Clematises in variety, if the soil is made a little 
lighter. Honeysuckles do well in rich soil; and 
the well-known Spirtea japonica is a capital sub¬ 
ject for a north border along with Solomon’s 
Seal. When all these are planted, spaces should 
be left for other things which can be filled for a 
vear or two with florists’ Gladioli, Dahlias, 
Stocks, Balsams, Zinnias, Asters, and hardy 
annuals. Of the last, the best kinds to sow are 

_Leptosiphons in variety—these must be sown 

very early—Clarkias, Godetias of sorts, crimson 
F lav , Larkspurs, Lupines, annual Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, and Silene pendula. On no account sow 
Sweet Alyssum, Oxalis valdiveana, or Saponaria 
calabrica; and i f Candytufts or Eschscholtzias are 
sown, care must be taken that no seeds are 
ripened. If dwarf Tropieolums are liked, they 
should be in pots of light soil sunk in the ground. 

J. D. 


Gazan la spl«nd®n8.— I am glad to see 
this fine showy plant being used with grjod pffect 
this season in many\guj^nf. lA^ifce and 


brilliantly coloured orange blossoms expand each 
morning as the sun gains strength, and assume 
fine star-shaped, almost circular forms; and 
what lends additional attractiveness to the 
flowers is that near the bottom each petal is 
dotted with a dark brown velvety spot, on which 
stands, in bold relief, a white one, the whole 
forming a handsome circle in the centre, and, as 
a writer has remarked, “arranged with so much 
matbemetical precision, that the flower is indeed 
a model of flowers." It is sometimes objected to 
that the Gazania, though very brilliant in fine 
sunny weather, loses all its effectiveness in dull 
weather, because the flowers close up then. But 
there are compensations in nature ; and now it 
will be found that the flowers expand themselves 
in dull weather, and make the spot on which 
they are growing very bright until latein autumn. 
—D. 

The Musk Hyacinth (Muscari moscha- 
tum).—This is an inconspicuous little flower, 
hut very sweet. It grows 8 inches to 10 inches 
high, and flowers in spring. Its flowers are 
purplish when they first appear, but gradually 
become of an unattractive greenish yellow, 



The Musk Hyacinth (Muscari moschatum). 


slightly tinged with violet, deliciously fragrant. 
The bulbs are of medium size, and may be 
planted in autumn or very early in spring. It 
grows well in borders of sandy soil, but its 
proper place is naturalised among the Violets 
and early spring flowers on sunny banks, kc. 

9919.— Ten-week stocks. — Stocks are 
very easy things to grow to perfection, but their 
requirements must be attended to. They will 
not do well in dry or exhausted or rubbishy soils, 
such as exist in small gardens in the suburbs, 
where the speculative builder has been at work; 
but given a good deep sound loam or a well 
cultivated clay, such as will grow a first-rate 
Rose or a good Cabbage, and everything else is 
within the power of the cultivator. Choose a 
bed in a sunny, sheltered position, dig the soil 
well two spits deep, incorporating plenty of old 
well-rotted manure, and breaking up the soil 
well with the spade. Buy a first-rate collec¬ 
tion of seed from one of the best seed 
houses, and sow it in pans, pots, or boxes about 
the middle of March. Good seed is of the utmost 
importance. Place pieces of glass over the seed 
pans to prevent evaporation, and place the pans 
in a cold frame or in a sunny window. Stocks 
are almost hardy, so that ones the seeds are up 
it is only necessary to guard againt actual frost. 
When the plants have made three pairs of leaves 
it is time to plant them out. The soil should 
receive a top-dressing of 2 inches of old manure 
rotted to powder, as a finish, which should be 
lightly forked or pricked in, and the plants 
Bhould then he set out in rows 15 inches apart 
and 3 inches between each plant. The bed must 
be watered in dry weather, and if night frosts 
are likely, plant branches of Spruce Fir, or 
evergreens over the bed, removing them when 
the danger is over. As the plants grow, thin 
them out, removing those which show a 
tendency to spindle up and become lanky, as 
these generally produce single flowers. Water 
occasionally with weak liquid manure, but not 
when the ground is dry. As the plants progress, 
thin out those which show flowers earliest until 
those left stand 15 inches apart all over the bed, 
when they may be left to bloom. The bed must 
be kept free from weeds, and should be pricked 
over occasionally to prevent the surface be¬ 
coming hand. Stocks do fairly well in borders 
I of good, rich, well-manured soil; but if used as 


border plants, there will be a proportion more or 
less of singles and inferior plants, as it is 
impossible to tell what the plants will turn out 
when they have only made six leaves, and it is 
not well to move them when they have become 
larger. “ W.” has made two primary mistakes— 
buying his plants from a florist most likely some 
six weeks too late in the season, and using Clay’s 
fertiliser instead of old rotted manure. Dry 
artificial manures are extremely useful where the 
soil is in good heart and contains plenty of 
vegetable food or humus to enable it to retain 
moisture; but in the dry, exhausted, and 
rubbishy soil almost universal in small gardens 
in the suburbs of Loudon, they cannot supply 
the place of manure from the stable or cowshed. 
The number of horses stabled in London takes 
away any excuse town asd suburban gardeners 
might have for using artificial fertilisers of any 
kind, especially as fresh manure can bo used for 
frames and hotbeds.—J. D. 

10063. — Propagating Alyesums. — In 

reply to “ Mrs. R„ Bridport," I give the modes 
of propagation I have found most successful 
with A. eaxatile. Seeds sown as soon as ripe 
and pricked out into nursery beds about 1 foot 
apart will produce very fine plants the second 
year; or cuttings put in now under hand-glasses 
in a shaded position will be well rooted by 
September, and if planted out like the seedlings, 
will mnVe flowering plants next spring. But 
where a good stock of old plants that are getting 
overgrown exists, I have found the following 
plan answer well, viz.: In October, when the 
weather is cool and moist, cut off all the outside 
straggling shoots, make large holes with a 
dibber, and insert them firmly in the soil, and 
nearly every one will grow and make a good 
flowering plant the following spring, and the 
old plants will break out into a thicket of shoots, 
and look far better than before.—J. Gkoom, 
Hants. 

10010.— Manure for Pansies.— Pansies 
dislike fresh manure; it should first be reduced 
to powder by being used for hotbeds. Leaf- 
mould answers well when mixed with loam from 
rotted turfs. If “ Constant Reader ” has not 
grown Pansies before, I would strongly advise 
him not to invest in choice sorts from cuttings 
until he has grown seedlings for a year or two. 
Get a packet of seed of Bugnot's International 
prize kinds, one of Louis Odier’s spotted Belgian 
kinds, and one of show kinds. Sow these now as 
thinly as possible in pots or boxes ; let the seeds 
be nearly an inch apart. As fast as the plants 
are large enough to handle, lift them carefully 
and plant where they are to bloom, filling the 
space from which each plant was lifted with 
fresh soil. Plant all the last seeds to spring in a 
bed by themselves. In three cases out of four 
these will produce the best flowers. Master the 
details of cultivation and propagation with your 
own home-grown stock, and then invest in the 
show varieties.—J. D. 

10038.— Narcissi and Iris.— The double 
white Narcissus may be lifted as soon as the 
foliage has died down, but a far better plan is 
not to move the bulbs until they become too 
crowded, and then only lift and replant at once. 
English Iris may be kept out of the ground until 
the last week in September, but are much better 
left in the ground for three years. No advan¬ 
tage can result from moving these late-flowering 
bulbs, as they can be ent down when the leaves 
wither, and later flowering plants can be planted 
amongst them to hide them. We must get rid 
of that idea of lifting plants as soon as they have 
done blooming and substituting others in the 
same place. Not much garden beauty is possible 
with that kind of treatment; the best and most 
Bhowy hardy plants will not stand it, and many 
of them refuse either to grow or flower. If 
“ H. J. II.’' had planted his Narcissi in circles 
with a space of a foot inside, he might now have 
had a Balsam, a Dahlia, or a Marvel of Peru 
springing up fast to hide the decay¬ 
ing leaves, and the Iris might in the 
same way be succeeded by climbing Tro- 
pmolums, Tigridias, or seeding perpetual Carna¬ 
tions. All that is necessary to manage decora¬ 
tion with hardy plants which will look well all 
the year round, is to get rid entirely of the 
trifling small geometric beds cut out on turf, or 
surrounded by walks, and have no bed except a 
rockery bed less than 10 feet across, and better 
if 20 feet se 30 feet. In old-tashioned villa 
gardens there were a few borders 4 feet or 5 feet 



256 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Aug. II, 1883. 


wide, but the principal beds were 50 feet or 60 
feet long and 20 feet to 30 feet wide. In a bed 
of that size there would be four or five shrubs, 
two or three Rose bushes dotted about, and the 
rest was filled with hardy plants; fifty years ago 
there was not a tithe of the hardy plants in 
cultivation we now have, and yet a fair show of 
bloom was kept up in these large beds, so that 
there should be no difficulty in doing the same 
thing now.—J. D. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 


Extract* from a Garden Diary—August 13 to 
August 18. 

Fotting seedling Primulas; cutting seed-bearing stems 
off Mignonette and laying them on paper to ripen; 
breaking up clumps of Dactyiis elegantissima for use in 
spring bedding and planting them; shifting double 
Primulas from 3-inch pots to those in which they are to 
llower ; potting a few Souvenir de la Malmaison Carna¬ 
tions for specimens ; chopping up soil and mixing with it 
leaf-mould and rotten manure for Cinerarias; re-arrang¬ 
ing plant houses ; propagating bedding plants ; sowing 
beds of East Lothian Stocks, also Golden Pyrethrum ; 
taking up Chrysanthemums grown in borders, and re¬ 
planting them in herbaceous borders; making a trellis in 
Fig house and training Marshal Kiel Rose on it; shifting 
Potnsefctias from cutting pots into those in which they 
are to flower; putting in cuttings of Pelargoniums; thin¬ 
ning Grapes in late Vineries where too thick ; pruning in 
Pear shoots; planting Strawberries ; gathering all ripe 
Morello Cherries for bottling; top-dressing Melons and 
fertilising their flowers ; taking net9 off Morello Cherries 
and putting them on Peach wall to keep off wasps; 
planting Moss Curled French and Batavian Endive; sow¬ 
ing last crop of summer Spinach ; sowing Mustard and 
Cress ; staking and moulding up laBt crop of Peas— Wil¬ 
liam I. and Challenger; watering Celery, Lettuces, and 
last-planted Greens for winter use. 

Glasshouses. 

Bougainvillea glabra. — All the weak 
shoots at this time should be cut out of specimens 
of Bougainvillea that are grown in pots and have 
finished blooming, for as these do not in the least 
promote the formation of fresh flowering wood, 
it is not well to allow any overcrowding of 
weak growths, as they are merely a strain on the 
energies of the plants for no purpose, for this 
Bougainvillea will only bloom profusely on shoots 
that have attained some strength. If the balls are 
very full of roots, it will be found good practice 
to put about 1 inch of well-rotten manure on the 
surface, as the addition of new material of this 
description by encouraging the formation of fresh 
feeding fibres is a great assistance to the plants. 
Managed as above advised, this Bougainvillea 
can be had in bloom again about the end of 
September, and there will still be time enough 
after the flowering is over to get it sufficiently 
hardened off before the end of the year, 

Gardenias. — Where a sufficient stock of 
these are grown, and they are managed in a way 
to flower in succession, there is no difficulty in 
having a supply of their fragrant blossoms for 
many months. If they are wanted over as long 
a season as possible, in addition to the older 
larger stock, it ig a good plan to each spring pro¬ 
pagate some. Young plants of this year’s striking 
intended to flower in winter must have all re¬ 
quisite attention; they should at once receive a 
shift into the pots they are to bloom in; by doing 
this now they will have time to establish them¬ 
selves well before the short days. The size of 
the pots ought to be regulated by the strength 
and size of the plants; from 8 inches to 11 inches 
or 12 inches will be big enough. 

Gesneras. —The winter blooming G. exonien- 
sis must not be neglected, nor let to be over¬ 
shaded by other plants, or it will get drawn np, 
and unless the growth is stout and short it is 
useless to expect a satisfactory amount of bloom. 
The Donckelaari and Cooperi section will flower 
a second time if encouraged by being kept in a 
good light position and supplied with manure 
water. 

Ferns. — Such kinds as the Maidenhair 
(Adiantum cuneatum) and Pteris serrulata, 
which are so serviceable for using in a cut state, 
are best for this purpose when grown in com¬ 
paratively small pots. If they have been well 
cared for, they will have made good growth, and 
should now bo put where the requisite hardening 
can take place before winter. On this being 
properly done to a great extent depends the use 
they will be. Let them have a position where 
t hey will receive sufficient air and plenty of light, 
but if the atmosphere of the house they have 
been grown in has been moist, and a good deal 
of shade employed, do-wot let their) have too 
much sun, or tjie 4)1 on M (V 


be injured; they will also suffer similarly if 
they go short of water. Tree Ferns will by this 
time have got the main lot of fronds that they 
made in the spring matured, and it is a good 
plan to take advantage of this and give a good 
cleaning to those that are infested with scale. 
It will generally be confined to the older fronds; 
the largest insects ought to be removed with 
brush and sponge, laying the plants down on 
their sides afterwards, where this can be done, 
and dipping the affected parts in a solution of 
some or other of the various insecticides. 
Fowler’s, at about five ounces to the gallon, will 
be found effectual in destroying most of the 
young insects, and by this means a good deal of 
labour is saved compared with the slower pro¬ 
gress of hand cleaning. 

Berry-bearing Solanums. — When the 
weather is dry any of these that are planted out 
must be well attended to with water, so as to 
enable them to keep in a healthy condition. It 
will also be well to see if there is any red spider 
on them, for though they are not so liable to be 
attacked by it when planted ont as when grown 
in pots, still sometimes it will make its 
appearance, and soon do much harm to the leaves 
if not destroyed. A good dressing with Gishurst 
used at the rate of two ounces to the gallon of 
water will generally free them from this pest. 
Plants in pots affected by the insect can be 
dipped in this mixture. 

Mignonette. —Plants sown early to bloom 
in pots must not be allowed to get cramped at 
the roots. The size of pots necessary will, as a 
matter of course, be regulated by the strength of 
the plants and the size they are wanted to attain. 
Keep them tied in whatever shape is required. 
They look much the best when the form chosen 
is a more natural one than the pointed stiff style 
often seen. Plenty of air and abundance of 
light are essential to prevent their becoming 
drawn and weak, a condition that cannot be 
remedied if once they get into it. To keep the 
foliage green they must never be allowed to want 
for water. 

Flower garden. 

Rock garden and fernery. — Heat and 
drought will now begin to tell unfavourably on 
the plants in this department, and waterings are 
necessary, particularly in the case of the rarer 
kinds. Cut away all seedling flowers and stems, 
and keep the whole free from weeds. The com¬ 
mon Spergula is very troublesome, and this 
being its main seeding season, every effort must 
be made to clear out every particle of it from 
both rockwork and walks. Remove rusty fronds 
from Ferns, and curtail the growth of the ranker 
growers to prevent them from encroaching on 
the weaker and more choice varieties. During 
hot dry weather, a syringing overhead at sun¬ 
set will help to keep the plants in good health 
and free from spider. 

Mixed borders. — Herbaceous plants have 
been gay this season, and they have certainly 
well repaid all the attention that has been 
bestowed on them, which has simply been a 
general look over weekly to see to the ties, 
picking off bad blossoms, and keeping the 
borders free from weeds and strong growers 
mulched. At the present time Phloxes are 
making a grand show; the double Geums, Cam¬ 
panulas, Potentillas, and the Perrenial Sunflower 
are also very fine, and in order to keep them in 
that state we now have to water them twice a 
week. Whenever there is a blank place, seedling 
Aquilegias, Canterbury Beils, Brompton Stocks, 
and other perennials will be planted in it the 
first showery day, and meanwhile the places will 
be prepared by digging them with a hand- 
fork and manuring them with guano or some 
other fertiliser. 

Propagation. —If cuttings can be had with¬ 
out marring the appearance of the beds, Pelar¬ 
goniums ought now to be propagated; the 
handiest way is to strike them in the open 
border. Any kind of light Boil will do provided 
the cuttings are well firmed in it. To plant the 
cuttings in boxes at once will save labour, but 
my experience is that they never do so well as 
those struck in the open border and potted up 
about the middle of September. A hotbed 
should be made np for the striking of Ageratums, 
Petunias, Lobelias, Verbenas, Mescmbryanthe- 
mnms, Coleus, Iresines, and Alternantheras; 
only sufficient of these should be propagated to 
ensure a good supply of cuttings in the spring, 
as spring-struck plants grow away much more 


freely than those struck in autumn. Violas, 
Pansies, Pentstemons, Antirrhinums, and all 
other hardy perennials usually propagated from 
cuttings may be put in now; a north or shady 
border upon sandy soil and handlights or frames 
are all that is needed to ensure a successful 
strike. 

General work. —This will consist in water¬ 
ing shrubs, trees, and Roses moved in the spring, 
and the renewing of the mulching over their 
roots; also in picking off decayed flowers and 
foliage from the flower beds, and pegging, pinch¬ 
ing, and tying up the plant# according to the 
needs of each. The completion of shrub cutting, 
also the picking of seed vessels off choice 
Rhododendrons and Azaleas, at the same time 
tearing off suckers or shoots that spring from 
the stock, will now also need attention as well 
as hoeing shrubberies, clipping verges, and weed¬ 
ing walks if neatness is to be maintained, and it 
ought, for without it a garden can yield no real 
pleasure. 

Fruit. 

Melons. —Devote all possible attention to 
the last batch of plants recently put out, and 
encourage them to make a strong and quick 
growth of vine by full exposure to sun and light, 
and by closing in time for the house to run up 
to 90° with solar heat and plenty of moisture. 
Quick free kinds in 12-inch to 16-inch pots should 
be selected for late work, and the bottoms of the 
pots should be placed within the influence of the 
bottom heat pipes when fire heat through the 
last stages becomes a necessity. Train each 
plant to a single stem, carefully preserve eve ry¬ 
ot d leaf from the base upwards, take out all 
laterals that start between the bed and the trellis 
as soon as they can be seen, and pinch the points 
out of the leaders when they have covered two- 
thirds of the trellis. Fertilise every female 
flower as it opens, select the most evenly 
balanced fruit for the crop, but defer stopping 
until the Melons have attained the size of Wal¬ 
nuts ; then pinch at the first joint, and gradually 
remove all useless side shoots, laterals, and 
spray. When the time arrives for earthing up 
the plants the soil in the pots as well as the top 
dressing should be in a dry state and fit for ram¬ 
ming firmly without becoming adhesive, other¬ 
wise it will cake and crack, and water will pass 
away without permeating the whole of the bail. 
Late crops in pits and frames will require a 
steady bottom heat from fermenting material 
or hot-water pipes until the fruit is ripe, as any 
thing approaching a check is sure to destroy the 
flavour if it does not prove fatal to the plants. 
Let every fruit be raised above the bed, but not. 
quite clear of the foliage, as some kinds of 
Melons are liable to turn brown when early air¬ 
ing is neglected on bright mornings. Place a 
few pieces of charcoal as a preventive about 
the stems, and apply quicklime and sulphur to- 
the parts affected should canker set in. This 
troublesome disease may, however, easily be pre¬ 
vented by using a good, sound, but not over rich 
loam, by the careful preservation of the stem 
leaves, and by stimulating at the proper time 
with tepid liquid or guano water in preference 
to top dressing with solid manure. 

Vines. —Muscats now colouring fast may be 
kept somewhat drier, with a free circulation of 
air and sufficient fire-heat to keep up the 
proper temperature, and in the event of lateral 
growth having become somewhat mild—a con¬ 
dition under which Grapes always swell well— 
a gradual shortening back will be advisable; 
but care must be observed in the preservation 
of a good canopy of foliage for the protection of 
the fruit from the direct influence of the sun. 
For special purposes the colouring may bo 
hastened by full exposure, but in modem houses 
glazed with large squares of 21-oz. glass, the 
clear amber colour so much desired, but not 
always attained, may be gained by allowing 
fruit, wood, and foliage to ripen up together. 
The latest Hambnrghs intended for use through 
November and December will now be colouring 
fast, and with the exception of two hours’ close 
treatment from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m., the ventilators 
may be kept constantly open. Late Grapes now 
safe from scalding, and in most places colouring 
fast, must be encouraged with gentle fire-heat, 
and free ventilation, in order to get them ripe 
by the end of September. Gradually reduce 
lateral growths, leaving a good spread of foliage 
all over tbo house. Examine inside borders, 
and continue the feeding with warm liquid 



AtG. 11, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


257 


manure or guano water until the colonring pro¬ 
cess is well on the move, when the supply of 
stimulating food maybe reduced or discontinued 

altogether. 

Peaches and Nectabines.— The fruit’ in 
cool orchard houses will now he sufficiently 
advanced for full exposure to the influence of 
sin and light by being elevated on Bhort pieces 
of lath placed across the wires of the trellis. 
Nothing is gained by getting them up too good, 
as Peaches, like other things under artificial 
treatment, always swell best under a free and 
unrestricted growth from the stoning period up 
to the time they begin to swell for ripening. As 
the fruit is placed apex upwards, all Btrong 
growths should be tied down and stopped, for 
the twofold purpose of increasing the size of the 
fruit and maintaining the balance of sap in the 
lower and weaker parts of the trees. Houses 
now dear of fruit and having the roots inside 
will require very careful attention for some time 
to como, as next year's success greatly depends 
upon the proper development and ripening of 
the buds. To insure this, it is hardly necessary 
to say all surplus wood should be removed prior 
to cleansing with the hose or garden engine, and 
that the foliage should afterwards be kept in 
health by means of evening syringing, liberal 
ventilation, and copious watering. ■, 

Vegetables. 

Peas, Broad Beans, French Beans, and stems 
of Cauliflower are among the most likely sub¬ 
jects at present that require to be cleared 
away, together with the harvesting of early 
aud second early kinds of Potatoes. The ground 
thus set at liberty should be cropped as fol¬ 
lows The best and driest plot should be sown 
with Winter Spinach in drills 2 feet apart, the 
next best plot with Winter Onions in rows from 
15 inches to 18 inches apart; another breadth 
with Turnips in drills 1 foot apart. Chirk Castle 
Blaokstone is a grand variety for sowing at this 
season, and smaller plots should be set apart 
for succession sowings and plantings of Endive, 
Lettuces, Badishes, and Onions for salads ; a 
warm border should also be reserved for a sowing 
of Cabbage and Cauliflower, in which position 
they may winter if afforded some slight pro¬ 
tection in severe weather. Numerous other 
operations, too, must have early attention, such 
is staking late Peas, earthing and placing 
twiggy sticks to French Beans, earthing up 
Celery, thinning-out recently sown Turnips and 
Carrots, tying np and stopping Tomatoes and 
•aiing off part of the foliage in order to expose 
the fruit, training out Ridge Cucumbers and 
Vegetable Marrows and soiling them np, cutting 
and hanging up to dry all kinds of herbs, tc- 
noving seed stems from Seakale and the fruit 
from Globe Artichokes as soon as fit for nse; 
from those stools that have done bearing, too, 
ite old steins should he cut quite off at once. 
If, after all the staple winter crops are got in, 
'here is still ground to spare, it may advanta¬ 
geously be utilised for a chance crop of Cauli- 
ruwers, for Celery to be used for soups to save 
tie main supply, or for Coleworts, which at 
dl seasons are acceptable. To continue the 
urpply of French Beans, provision may now 
lave to be made to sow them in pits or frames; 
let die soil be light, moderately rich, 18 inches in 
'epth, and the drainage open. Sow in rows 
15 inches apart, and for the Canadian Wonder 
1? inches apart. This forces equally well as the 
nost renowned forcing kinds ; grow them on in 
hill exposure till the nights become so cold that 
they begin to show a yellow tinge. A free use of 
so syringe and abundance of water will keep 
them free from insects. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 
ontihtje to persevere in maintaining a con¬ 
ation of order and neatness in all departments, 
besides watering, the routine of keeping plants 
a their places, and affording to such as require it 
He support of neat stakes, will constitute nearly 
•3 the necessary labour out-of-doors. Dahlias 
rust be kept well supported, as from their brittle 
attire they are easily broken by wind. Fre- 
uent soakings of liquid manure will also be of 
.teat benefit to these just now, when they are 
-hably just coming into bloom. The tall 
Lobelias (cardinal) will need the same treat- 
rant. Beds of Asters will also be greatly 
‘saefited by either a liberal, top-dressing of 
--caved manure of some^kindj Of a though 


soaking with some rich liquid manure, particu¬ 
larly if the weather is dry. Remember that the 
flowering period of nearly all annuals is greatly 
prolonged by removing all dead flowers directly 
they fade, and so preventing the formation of 
seed-pods. A good watering or two (not a 
sprinkle) will often start these into fresh growth 
and beauty in dry weather. 

Chrysanthemums in pots now need constant 
attention; they mast not be stopped any more, 
but induced by liberal watering, both at root 
and branch, and feeding with liquid manure, to 
make a rapid and vigorous growth, which must 
yet be made thoroughly ripe and firm by plen¬ 
tiful exposure to sun and air, i.e., arranging the 
plants at such a distance from one another that 
every branch shall have a full and free supply of 
both these essentials. 

Spring and summer-flowering greenhouse 
plants mast now be thoroughly ripened by 
gradually inuring them to full exposure to the 
outside air; this will harden the tissues and 
enable the plants to bear the ordeal of winter 
with safety. Winter-flowering plants, as a rule, 
should, on the contrary, be grown on somewhat 
qnickly, at the same time affording them suffi¬ 
cient snn and air to ensure the growth being 
strong and healthy. Cool frames or pits are 
much better for this purpose than any form of 
house. (Trapes advancing towards the colouring 
point should be kept rather drier than hereto¬ 
fore, with abundance of air in warm seasons. 
Geraniums, Petunias, and similar plants in 
windows or rooms that have been flowering some¬ 
time, and are wanted a little larger, should have 
a dose or two of guano or sulphate of ammonia. 

B. C. R. 

INDOOR PLANTS. 

PROPAGATING PELARGONIUMS. 

The various Pelargoniums of the show, French, 
or fancy section that have finished flowering will 
be by this time cut down, and any that are 
wanted for purposes of propagation, even if still 
in flower, should be so treated without delay, 
otherwise the cuttings will not have time to be¬ 
come established before winter sets in, and their 
growth at best will be but weak. A good way 
is to set them out-of-doors a few days before 
they are cut down, in order that the wood may 
acquire a firmer texture and be less liable to de¬ 
cay than if used full of sap. This precaution is 
especially necessary if the plants have been fed 
up with stimulating manures, as in that case, 
unless they are ripened off before being cut 
down, a certain amount of risk is incurred that 
may be avoided. In making the cuttings, choose 
good clean, stoat, growth, discarding at the same 
time all portions that contain nothing but un¬ 
developed flower-bndB. Such portions consist 
of part of the top of each shoot, and should be 
thrown away, but the rest of the upper part, as 
a rule, furnishes the best cuttings of any. In 
catting them up sever each one immediately be¬ 
low a joint, which should form the base of the 
cutting, but do not remove more leaves than is 
absolutely necessary, as those not required will 
drop off in a few days without inflicting the 
check that would be caused if they were cut off. 
Five-inch pots are a very suitable size to put them 
in, and these should be about one-third fall of 
crocks before the soil is added. A good soil should 
consist of two parts loam and one part of 
both leaf-mould and sand, the whole being 
pressed moderately firm. After the cuttings 
are put iD, water them and place them in 
a good light position, shaded but little, if 
any, from the sun, and freely exposed to the 
air. A shelf in a greenhouse or some such place 
will suit them admirably. After they have been 
put in about a week, if gone over carefully, it 
will be found that a great many leaves can 
easily be removed. Such should be at once done, 
otherwise their decaying stalks may communi¬ 
cate infection to the stem, and thus destroy the 
cutting. In putting them in keep to the edge 
of the pot, as so placed they strike best. Plants 
struck in this manner are always stouter and 
more vigorous than those kept close and shaded 
when in the cutting stage. 

The above remarks do not apply to Pelar¬ 
goniums of the zonal and Ivy-leaved section, as 
these strike better where slightly shaded and 
kept rather close. Of course, when large, firm 
cuttings are obtainable, they strike well either in or 
1 out of the sun ; but where the number is limited, 


as in the case of new varieties, it is often neces¬ 
sary to make the cuttings very small, and such 
being the case, they are unable to withstand ex¬ 
posure, while, if protected a little, they root 
quickly. In the case of the Ivy-leaved kinds it 
is unnecessary to leave a joint at the base, but 
in zonals, that should be done. Those pretty 
little tuberous-rooted kinds, commonly called 
Cape Pelargoniums, represented by such sorts as 
EchiDatum, Spotted Gem, Ariel, Pixie, and 
Beauty, often fail to strike satisfactorily. I have 
succeeded best with them by repotting the stock 
plant and keeping it in a growing temperature; 
then when the shoots are long enough, take 
them off, when they will strike readily. If very 
succulent, allow them to lie by for a few hours 
after cutting them off and do not overwater 
them when put in. T. 


Propagating Daphne indlca. — Both 
the red and white varieties of this fragrant 
greenhouse shrub may be increased either from 
cuttings or by grafting on the common Spurge 
Laurel (Daphne Laureola). Where but few 
plants are required the former method is gene¬ 
rally followed, but where large quantities 
are grown for sale the latter is then resorted 
to. The cuttings should be made of the young 
growth just as it commences to become woody, 
that is, when it is no longer so succulent as to 
snap if bent. The great point is to catch the 
enttings just in a favourable condition, as if too 
soft they speedily decay, and when too hard they 
stand a long time in the cutting pots without 
rooting, and many are lost before that takes place, 
while those that do root are so weakened by long 
confinement that they seldom grow away freely 
afterwards. In choosing the cuttings, those are to 
be preferred in which the young growth is of a 
convenient length for the purpose, as when snch 
is the case the shoot can be taken off at its very 
base, a part more favourable to the production of 
roots than the top of the shoot. If the entire 
growth is of an inconvenient length, the cutting 
will be found to root better when a slanting cut 
extending about half an inch is made than if 
taken off horizontally. Four-inch or 5-inch pots 
will be found to be suitable for the insertion of the 
cuttings; they should be half filled with broken 
crocks—coarse at the bottom and fine towards the 
top. A peaty soil is the best; a mixture of about two 
parts peat to each one of sand and loam makes 
a very suitable compost. The whole must be 
sifted fine and pressed moderately firm, leaving 
just space enough for a layer of sand on the top. 
Do not remove more leaves from the cutting 
than is absolutely necessary, yet enough must 
be taken off to prevent any being buried. Be 
careful to secure the base of the cutting, other¬ 
wise it will remain a long time without rooting, 
and often instead ofjthat taking place will shrivel 
up and die. After the pot is filled give a 
thorough watering—enough to cause the sand 
to form a smooth and even surface; then put 
all into a close case, the temperature of which 
should be slightly higher than that in which the 
plants have been growing. If the ordinary 
routine of shading, watering, &c„ is followed, a 
good measure of success may reasonably be 
expected ; that is to say, but few deaths will be 
recorded. When rooted harden off by degrees 
and pot into small pots when ready. Care must 
be taken in potting, as the roots are brittle and 
so sparingly produced that if any are broken a 
severe Bhock is sustained. In grafting, the best 
stocks are young seedling plants established in 
pots, and the scions young shoots as for cuttings. 
Graft as low as possible in order that when 
potted the union may be kept down out of sight; 
place them when grafted in a close case as for 
cuttings. 

The Scarborough and African 
Lilies. —The first of these (Vallota purpurea) 
is an invaluable plant, as it grows freely and 
flowers abundantly at a season when variety in 
the way of pot plants is not great. Above all, 
it is easy to grow, and does not require that 
perpetual repotting that many soft-wooded 
kinds of plants do. In fact, with good drainage 
and good soil to start with, a pot of the brilliant 
Scarborough Lily will flower and flourish for at 
least half a dozen years without repotting. A 
mixture of turfy loam, peat, and sand suits this 
plant well, and anyone with an ordinary green¬ 
house or vinery may have it in perfection. Do 
not attempt the drying-off system. The Vallota 
needs rest, but not under a stage; it must be 


258 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Aug. 11, 1883. 


placed where it can be seen and attended to at 
all times, but it will well repay any care that 
may be expended on it. An excellent companion 
plant is the African Lily (Agapanthus umbel- 
latufl), as it flourishes under exactly similar 
conditions, and its large towering heads of pale 
blue flowers make a capital contrast to the 
scarlet Lily. The Agapanthus has very elegant 
foliage, and is even worth growing for its foliage 
alone. It has large fleshy roots, and requires 
plenty of water in summer—in fact, it delights 
in being treated as an aquatic and partially 
plunged in water. It looks very pretty by the 
margin of a lake ; the variegated variety makes 
a pretty pot plant, but is not nearly so robust in 
growth as the ordinary form.—G. 

Adam’s Needles (Yuccas').—Where it is 
desired to increase plants of the different green¬ 
house varieties of Yucca, such as albifolia 
variegata, quadricolor.andfilamentcsa variegata, 
it will be found on turning them out of their 
pots, even if small, that some are pushing out 
large roots or underground stems against the 
side of the pot. These may be carefully cut off 
in lengths of 2 inches or 3 inches, without dis¬ 
turbing the ball of soil, and put in a per¬ 
pendicular position in pots or pans of sandy 
soil, and at a sufficient depth to be covered half 
an inch. If assisted with a little heat they will 
push up strongly, and when sufficiently rooted 
can be potted off. The advantage of this method 
is, the stock plant is in no ways injured or dis¬ 
tressed by it.—T. 


BOSES. 

ROSES IN TOWNS. 

Cultural directions. —I would strongly 
urge lovers of the Rose who have suburban gar¬ 
dens to persevere in its cultivation, and if they 
will observe the following directions, I feel sure 
they will be successful. First and most important, 
give the Roses a bed to themselves. Trees stuck 
in here and there amongst other things are much 
more difficult to treat. In a bed 5 yards square 
about forty trees may be planted. If the natural 
soil be poor, make a compost of marl, rich loam, 
rotted turves, or vegetable refnse and cow 
manure; remove two-thirds of the soil from the 
bed to a depth of 2 feet 6 inches, and substitute 
the compost, which should be well mixed with 
the soil left; then with a. good top-dressing of 
stable manure the bed is complete. Obtain in 
October or November a stock of strong plants 
on the Manetti, plant them so that the worked 
part is 6 inches below the surface, and take care 
that the stem above the worked part is sur¬ 
rounded by marl; plant firmly, and within two 
years the probability is that the tree will be 
well rooted on its own bottom and can dispense 
with the foster stock. Prune as late in the fol¬ 
lowing spring as possible, and do not be afraid 
of the knife. Encourage the growth of the strong 
shoots that come up from just below the surface; 
these must make the tree for the following year. 
In pruning I always try to remove every particle 
of the wood two years old, and I believe tide 
is the great secret in growing Rose trees near 
towns. 

Insects. —Directly the trees begin to grow 
they must be looked over morning and evening 
in order that insect pests may be dealt with 
directly they appear. For the green-fly I find 
nothing so efficacious as a pair of brushes; if 
the affected branch be drawn through them the 
flies quickly vanish. Do not hesitate having 
recourse to disbudding: take off the side buds 
directly they appear, so that the whole strength 
of the bough may be concentrated on the centre 
bud. As the growth proceeds, assist it with 
liquid manure. This will not only increase the 
size and colour of the flowers, but encourage the 
growth of strong shoots from the bottom just 
referred to. Under such treatment year after 
year, and a purchase every autumn of 20 per 
cent, of new trees or Manettis for budding, the 
stock may be fully maintained, if not increased. 
Of course the blooms will not be equal to those 
staged by our leading growers at Rose shows, 
but bear in mind that those blooms are seldom 
cut off trees even two years old. These are 
nearly all maiden blooms, and such as are not 
are cut from trees not more than two years old. 
No nurserymen or amateur will dream of grow¬ 
ing Roses for exhibition without budding his 
own Briers; but the-flowers produced will amply 

Digitize, t, r Go gie 


repay the amateur for all the trouble and time 
expended. 

I give my experience, hoping that the success 
which has attended it may encourage other sub¬ 
urban lovers of the Rose to attempt and to suc¬ 
ceed. At every Rose show I attend I register 
fresh vows for the future. I am sure shows are 
of the greatest service to amateurs, and when 
held in large towns do more than anything else 
to encourage the cultivation of the Rose in sub¬ 
urban gardens. W. T. S. 

Birmingham. 


10042.— Boses near towns.— It is very 
difficult to give advice as to planting Roses near 
large towns without an intimate knowledge of 
the exact locality. If the prevailing winds are 
towards the garden it will be better not to 
plant Roses. Notice how the wild Roses do in 
the hedges near; if they are strong and luxuriant, 
you are pretty safe. Is the situation open and 
countrified? If so, Roses are more likely to 
succeed than in gardens surrounded by houses. 
Is the garden on a speculative building estate, 
laid out in small plots, and likely to be still 
further enclosed by houses 1 If so, do not 
attempt to grow Roses. If the garden is open 
to the fields and not in the drift of the smoke, 
a nice, deep, well-manured bed should be made 
as far from the house as possible and planted 
with standards, or bushes, or a mixture of both. 
The best Hybrid Perpetuals are the most unsuit¬ 
able Roses to plant; but if the air is almost as 
pure as in the country. Princess Mary of Cam¬ 
bridge, Alfred Colomb, and Duke of Edinburgh 
may suit. It will be safer, however, to choose 
strong-growing, free-flowering garden Roses, such 
as MadamedeCambaceres,General Jacqueminot, 
Senateur Vaisse, Baronne Prevost, Princess 
Louise, La Reine, Anna Alexieff, Comtesse de 
Chabrillant, Jules Margottin, Madame Alfred 
de Rougemont, Aimee Vibert, and Gloire de 
Dijon. The worse the situation the more neces¬ 
sary it will be to plant these as bushes; stan¬ 
dards should never be planted where the situation 
is in the least degree doubtful. If the garden 
is in the least smoky, or enclosed by houses, 
with the exception of Aimee Yibert, bushes of 
the summer-flowering Roses will alone prove 
satisfactory. Plant in that case the Old White, 
the Maiden's Blush, common Damask, perpetual 
Damask, Madame Audot, Madame Legras, 
Madame Hardy, Madame Zoetmans, La Ville de 
Bruxelles, and as many of the old Gallicas as 
can be had.—J. D. 

9942 and 9856.— Deformed Roses —It is 
difficult to say what is the cause of this without 
seeing the plants. Some varieties of the Rose 
have more tendency than others to produce im¬ 
perfect flowers. The following are some of the 
causes which produce deformed blooms -.—Allow¬ 
ing the plants to become dry at the roots; leaving 
too much old wood in the pruning; placing 
single plants in exposed situations, especially in 
the case of standards; sudden changes of tem¬ 
perature while the buds are growing, such as 
hot cloudless days and cold nights ; neglecting 
the plants after the first bloom is over so that 
the wood for next year's bloom is not properly 
ripened before winter; and planting standard 
Roses near smoky towns, or any Roses in dry 
soils without proper preparation, or in raised 
beds. Rose buds are often bitten or punctured 
by caterpillars at the base of the flower where 
the calyx turns in to join the seed vessel; these 
buds burst at the side and make deformed 
flowers. All buds should be looked over before 
they show colour, and the injured ones picked 
off.—J. D. _ 

HOUSE AND WINDOW GAEDENING, 

Maiden-hair Ferns in rooms.— These 
do not succeed well in the majority of cases 
when grown in rooms. To attain the best results, 
it is necessary to give them as much light as 
possible; consequently, they will be in close 
proximity to the windows, where the draught or 
cold air entering the room will be somewhat de¬ 
trimental to their well-being. This should be 
avoided as much as can be done. If I were to 
attempt growing this Fern in a room I would 
prefer it under a bell-glass, one with a hole at 
the top. By keeping this a trifle tilted on one side 
a constant circulation of air would be kept up, 
yet not too draughty. In potting this or any 
other Fern for growing in rooms, it is best to pot 


firmer than for ordinary cultivation. The growth, 
though not so strong and well developed, will be 
more sturdy and robust, and better able to 
resist the drying atmosphere of a living room. 
Peat and sand will suit well, but a little loam 
may be added if not too retentive.—J. H. 

Flowers and plants In rooms. — 
(Enothera Lamarckiana, with its stately habit 
and delicate pale yellow flowers, is of great use 
in large, high bouquets; it arranges well with 
pale green Funkia leaves and flowers of the 
white variety of French Willow; its flowers do 
not close in the daytime in a room, as they do 
out of doors in sunlight. Some two dozen 
blooms of Helianthus rigidus, cut from 18 inches 
to 3 feet long, make a grand table bouquet, best 
seen against a dark background. A wide delft 
bowl is filled with Eschscholtzias and richly- 
coloured leaves of Beet, and a wide-mouth glass 
holds spring-sown Sweet Peas, cut with a good 
length of their own foliage. White Everlasting 
Peas are arranged with rather large leaves and 
sprays of green Ivy. The dinner table has 
orange and scarlet Nasturtiums, with small tips 
of red-tinted Berberis leaves. 

A pretty flower basket— A basket 
filled with Hydrangeas, pink, blue, and lilac, 
with abundance of glossy foliage, green, and 
variegated. Round these are pots filled with 
Disandra prostrata, which lets fall a light cur¬ 
tain all round with its pretty reniform leaves 
and small yellow flowers. The whole has a 
i chaste and pleasing effect.—A. G. 


TBEES AND SHBTJBS 


Trees In small gardens.— Trees should 
not be planted in small gardens without full 
knowledge of the consequences. On one side of 
my garden is a Hawthorn hedge, and imme¬ 
diately beyond it a row of young white Poplars. 
These are planted in a soil which has never been 
touched by either plough or Bpade except to 
plant the trees. This year I fonnd some Tea 
Roses dying, or refusing to thrive, and on re¬ 
moving those which were dead, I found the roots 
of one of these Poplar trees had passed under 
7 feet of border and walk, and were feeding on 
the nourishment provided for the Roses, the 
roots of the two being all interlaced. The main 
roots of the tree were three-quarters of an inch 
thick 20 feet from its trunk. It occurred to me 
that unaccountable deaths of plants may often 
be caused in this way. Trees and shrubs are 
planted, and no nourishment provided for them, 
and their roots search out food where they can 
find it.—J. D. 

The Flowering Curranta.— If these were 
tender subjects and required the heat of a stove 
or the protection of a greenhouse, how greatly 
would they be appreciated; but, as they are per¬ 
fectly hardy and will flourish in almost any soil 
or situation, they appear to be little cared for. 
There are numbers of large gardens in which 
there is not a single plant of any of those beau¬ 
tiful shrubs to be found, and yet at this season 
there is nothing half so effective as a bush of any 
of the varieties, loaded, as they always are, with 
their lovely racemes of gay blossoms. Bibes 
sanguineum has this year been very fine with 
us, and also a pale-coloured kind that blends 
well with it, and shows it up to advantage. 
Where these Ribes do best is in borders or other 
sheltered positions, backed up by evergreens to 
keep the cutting winds off them; for, as they 
flower so very early, they are otherwise apt to get 
much knocked about. Although they grow freely 
anywhere, they bloom best in poor soil where 
they can be fully exposed to the sun ; there they 
make less growth, and the young wood gets 
thoroughly ripened and becomes studded with 
blossom buds. I am of opinion that we do not 
make half enough use of many hardy plants; 
these Ribes appear specially adapted for pot cub 
ture, as they are of graceful form, medium and 
compact habit, and flower at a time when they 
are of great value. The wonder is that our market 
growers do not take them in hand and have 
them by thousands in small pots for the embel¬ 
lishment of rooms and windows in towns, for 
which purposes one would think a ready'sale 
would be effected, and their stock cleared out iri 
no time. For greenhouse or conservatory work 
again, what could be more charming than a few 
standards of the bright coloured sorts 7 and 
being naturally early, a very little warmth, oi 
oven shelter under glass, would bring them on t 


Auo. 11, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


259 



month at leant before those in the open; and yet 
for all this we devote much heat and room to far 
more unworthy things. For cutting to place in 
glasses, the Kibes has few equals, as the racemes 
of blossoms are not only rich in colour, but 
elegant in form, and, with a few sprays of 
Herberts Darwini or B. stenophylla, a vase pre¬ 
sents a fine finish, as the whole associate well 
together.—8. D. 

FLOWERS OF AUGUST. 

The white, red, and pink varieties of Anemone 
japonica are now fairly sprinkled with flowers; the 
Mexican Dahlias are brilliant, their rich, abun¬ 
dant foliage and large, bright-coloured blossoms, 
rendering them very attractive. The hardy 
Fuchsias are now very gay, such, for example, 
as F. aimplicifolia, Kiccartoni, pumila, globosa, 
and gracilis; in many places in the west and 
south of England they are used for making 
hedges. Veronica salici- 
folia, a neat little shrub, 
with narrow, lance¬ 
shaped foliage, and 
abundance of white 
flowers in spikes, is very 
pretty, it is one of the 
hardiest of the shrubby 
section. (Enothera spe- 
ciosa, one of the finest of 
the Evening Primroses, 
and one of the best of 
border plants, is now 
literally covered with its 
large white flowers. Gil- 
lenia trifoliata (Spirtea) 
has a peculiar and very 
pleasing effect; it is a stiff, 
much - branched little 
bush, with small foliage, 
and covered with showy, 
pure white flowers. The 
old Coreopsis lanceolata 
is flowering luxuriantly. 

Harpalium rigidum (He- 
liantbus) is one of the 
best of the Sunflower 
family, with immense 
golden yellow flowers 4 
inches in diameter. Many 
of the Monkshoods (Aco- 
nitums) are very good, 
their deep, purplish blue 
dowers being an acquisi- 
fion at this time of the 
year; one of the best blues 
in flower is the Italian Al- 
tanet (Anchusa italica), 
indispensible for cut¬ 
ting. Helenium autum- 
nale (with full, deep 
yellow flowers) and 
Selenium grandicepha- 
I nm (yellow splashed 
with crimson) are both 
:ood- The Shrubby Cin¬ 
quefoil (Potentilla fruti- 
osa). a species with yel¬ 
low flowers, is very dis¬ 
tinct, and well worth 
mowing. The double 
-eura (G. coccineum fl.- 
oL)is nowa sheet of bril- 
-ant scarlet flowers, and 
e is the old double Lych- 
jis (L. chalcedonica fl- 
jL), invaluable for cut- 
.ng purposes, and the 

zora it is cut the more it flowers. Many of the 
impanulas are still a mass of flower, notably the 
-irieties of C. turbinata, nobilia, nobilis alba, 
iendersoni, rotundifolia fl.-pl., Hosti alba, and 
-my of the dwarf varieties of the Garganica 
action. The Loosestrife (Lythrum alatum) is a 
•arming pot plant, having erect, slender stems 
-vered with purplish red flowers; this used to 

> grown as a market plant. Phloxes, Antirrhi- 
aaa, Pyrethrums, and Molas are a blaze of 
tour; to enumerate the best would be impos- 
:le; the best way is to visit some of the estab- 
tiuents where these are grown and make a 
section. The Pyrethrums are now flowering a 
■rend time. The bog plants, Nymphsea alba, 

> odorata, N. tnberosa, Nuphar lutea, N. ad¬ 
's!, and N. pumila (the yellow and white 
tiser Lilies) are also in flower. One of the 
oat elegant aquatics i s thp Flowering |Rueh 
(Ihiomus umbellatus) 


The double form of Clematis erecta is an 
effective subject on walls, or, indeed, on banks 
or stumps. The quaint Gladiolus purpureus, or 
one of its forms, is in bloom, as is also a brilliant 
Pcntstemon (P. puniceus). The tall, white 
Hyacinthus candicans is in flower in warm dis¬ 
tricts. The double French and African Mari¬ 
golds and the various annual Larkspurs are very 
effective just now where tastefully disposed. 
One of the most splendid plants of the month is 
the Double Day Lily (Hcmerocallis disticha 
fl.-pl.) Our blue Salvia patens also comes in to 
cheer us. Amongst British flowers the most 
beautiful is the Gentiana Pneumonanthe. Oxalis 
floribunda rosea is very attractive, so is Lilium 
superbum. The Tiger and Japan Lilies (L. 
tigrinum and L. speciosum) are also great at¬ 
tractions. To some extent the best plants of the 
month are those which naturally bloom earlier, 
but there are certain plants peculiar to the season 


k CjO gle 


Some Flowers of August. 

which aro effective, particularly the Golden Rods 
and the Michaelmas Daisies. There is little to 
choose among the Golden Rods, which are 
mainly fitted for the wild garden, but among the 
Michaelmas Daisies there are many kinds worthy 
of a place in the choicest borders, and also ex¬ 
cellent for masses and groups of autumnal flower¬ 
ing plants. 

One of the most brilliant and graceful of 
perennials is the Zauschneria californica, now 
coming into flower. It detests some cold and 
stiff soils, and therefore is not common. Few 
plants better deserve a permanent place in our 
flower borders. The Sea Bindweed (Convolvulus 
Soldanella) is charming just now, especially 
when placed on a rock or root garden or raised 
border, although it will thrive perfectly well on 
the level ground and in any soil. The Blue Rock 
Bindweed (Convolvulus mauritanicus) is fresh 
and lovely, and is, perhaps, seen to greatest 


advantage on raised borders. In the smallest 
collection this plant, which, though grown in 
greenhouses, is quite hardy, may have a place. 
Another modest-looking trailing plant is the 
Creeping Vervain (Zapania nodiflora), now be¬ 
ginning to open its numerous delicate flowers, 
densely covering its prostrate stems which run 
all over the ground. The old Hoapwort (Sapo- 
naria officinalis) is conspicuous; and among 
: aquatics the white flowers of the creeping Bog 
1 Arum (Calla palustris) arc welcome. A pretty 
blue perennial is Dracocepbalum altaiense, which 
is free, hardy, and an abundant bloomer. Two 
of the most welcome flowers of the season are 
Cyclamen europicum and Parnassia palustris 
(Grass of Parnassus). 

One of the best plants in our list is Henecio 
ptilcher. Although it comes from Buenos Ayres, 
it has proved quite hardy near London in the 
open border. The foliage is large, of great sub¬ 
stance, and deep green 
in colour; the flower- 
stems stout, erect, and 
branching, from 2 feet to 
3 feet in height, bear¬ 
ing numbers of purplish 
crimson flowers, measur¬ 
ing from 2 inches to 8 
inches across. Echinacea 
angustifolia and pur¬ 
purea are also useful 
plants, with stout, erect 
stems, from 3 feet to 4 
feet in height, bearing 
large purple flowers. 
Two members of the 
Spiderwort family, Com- 
melina cuclestis and C. 
ccclestis alba, are both 
well worth growing; the 
one is a lively Gentian 
blue, the other white, 
and they continue in 
flower until very late in 
the season; in cold, heavy 
soils, they should be 
taken up and stored 
away like Dahlias. Leu- 
canthemum alpinum, 
with numerous large, 
white, Daisy-like floweie, 
is also very conspicuous. 
It is closely allied to the 
Chrysanthemums, the 
best of which is the 
Paris Daisy (C. frutes- 
cens), a kind exten¬ 
sively used in Paris 
for summer decoration ; 
the flowers, which 
are white, completely 
cover the plant, which 
is also very useful for 
pot culture, flowering, 
as it does, in a cold 
house until January; it 
is, however, not quite 
hardy. The Australian 
Coral Plant (Erythrina 
Crista-galli) is literally 
covered with rich crim- 
Bon blossoms; in dry, 
warm situations it 
will live out - of - doors 
during warm winters. 
Marvel of Pern (Mira- 
bilis jalapa), though 
a very old plant, 
is not grown half so extensively as it ought to 
be, and would be, could people see it in good 
condition bearing myriads of flowers of every 
shade of colour, as it is now doing. Lithosper- 
mum prostratum is flowering a second time. In 
cool, shady spots are the Forget-me-nots (Myo- 
sotis azorica with indigo-blue flowers and the 
white variety, and M. Impiratrice Elizabeth, a 
robust-growing form of azorica with lighter- 
coloured blossomB), all of which make good pot 
plants- Thymus patavinus is a neat and showy 
plant, having an erect habit and hearing large 
pnrple flowers. The St. John's Worts (Hyperi¬ 
cum balearicum and tegyptiacum) are two 
interesting shrubs with yellow flowers ; both are 
hardy on rockwork in dry, well-drained situations, 
and they also succeed well grown in pots in a 
cold frame. Spirrea procumbens, a shrubby 
species, scarcely 6 inches in height, is now 
covered with white flowers ; this is quite hardy, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 














260 


GARDENINO ILLUSTRATED 


[Aug. 11, 1883. 


and promises to be a most useful plant. Linum 
monogynum var. candidissimum, a graceful 
plant with snowy-white flowers, and L. viscosum 
with rose-coloured blossoms, are both interesting 
plants, that grow freely in any open loamy soil. 
Delphinium chinense and its varieties form a 
pleasing group of very dwarf plants, that will 
grow in almost any soil, and will continue in 
flower for a long time. 

Antirrhinums, Phloxes, Pyrethrums, Holly¬ 
hocks, Violas, and Pentstemons are now in 
good condition in most gardens, and afford a 
good opportunity for making selections for the 
coming season. Among Phloxes, P. coccinea is 
one of the best, a bright fiery crimson; Fre¬ 
deric Soulie, magenta; Larina, Queen of Whites, 
and Miss Robertson, white; Walter Ware, rich 
rose-lake; Liervalli, purple with a white cross ; 
Mons. Marin Saison, deep reddish crimson; 
Rifleman, flesh with a dark rose centre; Ruby, 
deep crimson-purple; Triomphe de Parc de 
Neailly, fiery salmon; and many others. A 
rich-coloured Antirrhinum is Mr. Swarbruck, 
an intense deep velvety crimson kind; delica- 
tum, creamy white with an orange centre; 
Painted Lady, white striped and splashed with 
crimson; album perfectum, pure white; Fire 
King, crimson ; and King of the Yellows; than 
these a better half-dozen could not be found. 
Some of the best double Pyrethrums are Argen¬ 
tine, niveum plenum, and Olivia, all pure white ; 
Haage et Schmidt, velvety crimson with a 
lighter centre; Gloire de Stalle, purple-car- 
mine ; Marquis of Bute, rich crimson; Comte 
de Montbron, magenta-red; Herman Stenger, 
rosy lilac; Garibaldi, rose-lilac; Prince de Met- 
teraich, pure white, with an orange centre; and 
sulphureum, pure white, with a sulphur centre. 
The Mexican Tiger Flowers (Tigridias) are very 
conspicuous, their large flowers and brilliant 
colours amply compensating for the short period 
during which the individual flowers last. Tri- 
tonia aurea is also finely in flower. Amongst 
tall-growing border plants the varieties of Ane¬ 
mone japonica stand in the foremost rank, their 
handsome foliage and innumerable flowers 
rendering them very attractive. Gladioli are 
now flowering freely, especially G. gandavensis 
and G. Brenchleyensis, of which there are 
numerous varieties ; among the species at present 
in bloom are G. purpureo-auratus, a curiously- 
shaped flower, of a creamy yellow colour, having 
three irregular purplish blotches; G. dracoce- 
phalus, with bronzy flowers ; and G. Colvillei 
albus. Begonias, especially the bulbous ones, 
are now a mass of bloom; as pot plants they are 
very effective, and for bedding purposes in 
warm, dry soils, they rival even the Geranium. 
Many of the early-flowering Chrysanthemums 
are opening their blooms, and the Hollyhocks 
bid fair to make a good display a little later in 
the season. 


FRUIT. 

Seleot Gooseberries. —Five years ago we 
planted various sorts of Gooseberries that bore 
fruit of large size, and that were said to be good 
in flavour. At the same time we planted a 
number of smaller old-fashioned kinds beside 
them. I find many of the large sorts to be use¬ 
less for dessert; they have no flavour. It is 
doubtful indeed if the old Rough Red or 
Champagne, or an old green smooth sort or the 
Rough Early Yellow can be beaten in this 
respect. But after trying numerous sorts, if 
asked to namo four good kinds, I should say, 
Ironmonger, Crown Bob, Whitesmith, and Ited 
Warrington. These are the best, all points 
considered. They are good croppers, average as 
regards size, and finely flavoured. The Warring¬ 
ton ought to be grown by everyone. It comes in 
after many sorts are over, and it is a wonderfully 
heavy cropper. Wo have here some trees of it 
which we planted four years ago ; wo netted 
them early, and the berries, being on young 
trees, were good in size. I may add that the 
tree is not an upright grower, and that therefore 
it does not get injured by spring frost like the 

upright growers_J. C. F. 

Sir Joseph Paxton Strawberry — 

This has been a real Strawberry year. In this 
locality Strawberries are grown as field crops 
by the acre, and the quantity sent off by rail has 
been extraordinarily heavy, and the majority of 
them are of the variety called Sir Joseph Paxton, 
a very fine fruit, of high colour and firm flesh, 
the very sort for piarkjt-grov’qjr^; |op1> for those 


r ^rmrk^t-^rov^j; 


who value flavour before size and colour, I must 
say that many of the smaller fruited sorts are to 
be preferred.—J. G., Hants. 

10069.— Treatment of Figs.— Plant the 
Figs in the sunniest position at command; a 
south wall is the best position; in fact, the only 
one in northern counties of any use, but here in 
the south they ripen as standards. As regards 
pruning, the less they get of it the better, but 
if trained on walls, do not pinch the points, but 
cut out any long straggling shoots to the base, 
so as to always have a supply of young wood 
coming up. Try the following plan ; fasten the 
main shoots to the wall, and let all lateral Bhoots 
grow unchecked; you will probably get far 
more fruit than from any other kind of pruning. 
J. G., Hants. 


VEGETABLES. 


Celery falling. —It appears from “ J. B.’s” 
description that the failure in his Celery is 
caused by the larvss of the Celery fly (Tephritis 
Onopordinis). It is ensconced between the two 
cuticles of the leaf, where it preys on its paren- 
chyma. It can be easily seen if the leaf be held 
to the light. The ravages of this grub extend 
from June to November. The best remedy is to 
pick off the diseased part with as little of the 
healthy part as possible as soon as the disease 
first appears as a light brown 6peck on the edge 
of the leaf. By commencing at this early stage 
much after-mischief is prevented. Last year our 
Celery was badly attacked. We had to wage 
war with the pest the whole season. Each new 
leaf that appeared had its diseased specks; a boy 
was sent round about once a week who went 
carefully over the whole crop. It was an irksome 
task, but it succeeded, and we secured a good 
crop.—L. C. K. 

Harrison’s Glory Pea.— This is one of 
the very best of the many sorts of Pea now 
before the public, and one that for second early 
or main crop can hardly be excelled. Height 
from 2 feet to 3 feet; may be grown either with 
or without stakes. I find it a great favourite 
with market gardeners, and as a rule they are 
pretty good judges of what constitutes a good 
Pea. It is not a new or expensive sort, but has 
lately come to front, and is likely to remain 
there.—J. G., Hants. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Continued frsm. page 243.) 

The Auricula. 

I have condensed these remarks upon hardy 
florists’ flowers into as small a compass as possible, 
not because the subject was not worthy of more 
extended treatment, but rather because I did 
not wish to trench upon the proper domain of 
the specialist. I hope I have said enough to con¬ 
vince those of my readers who have not yet 
taken up the cnlture of these extremely interest¬ 
ing families of plants, that there is a wide field 
open for the display of their talents and energies. 
And those among them who want to go further 
than these papers take them can apply to the 
various published treatises for fuller information. 
But after all there are things in the culture of 
plants which cannot be learned from a treatise, 
however exhaustive it may be in its treatment. 
Many useful and suggestive hints may be ob¬ 
tained from books, even bad ones have their 
uses in this respect, but still experience is the 
best teacher, though in some respects it may be 
an expensive one, unless guided and controlled 
by what, for want of a better term, is called 
common sense. 

The Soil 

For Auriculas, Polyanthuses, and the rrimula 
family generally should be of a loamy nature, 
medium in quality, that is, not light nor yet 
heavy, and it should be enriched with old cow 
manure in proportion to its quality; from a fourth 
to a third will generally give good results. 
Some people in preparing their compost, when 
the loam is carted home, pack it up in a ridge 
with proportionate layers of cow manure in the 
loam. When this has been laid up six months 
it will, when broken up, grow in the highest 
state of perfection all the families treated of 
under the heading hardy florists’ flowers. 

Culture in Tots. 

Auriculas of the highest class are usually 
grown in pots in frames, on a stage erected some 


distance from the ground in winter to insure a 
free circulation of air—the best antidote to 
damp. But whether grown in frames, low pits, 
or houses, damp is one of the chief enemies to 
guard against in their winter management. The 
usual time for repotting is early in February 
All the plants may not require to be repotted 
top dressing with rich compost may suffice 
in some cases, and if the pots are largo enough 
for the plants, and the drainage in a healthy 
condition, repotting is not required, as food 
enough can be given by top dressing or liquid 
manure. All pots must be clean, especially 
inside, and the drainage in the bottom must be 
perfect to permit of an easy' escape of the 
water, as a water-logged plant soon changes 
colour and dies. When the plants are in hand 
either for repotting or top-dressing is a good 
time for removing any offsets that may be grow- 
ing out of the sides of the Btems. Old-fashioned 
florists used to take them off by pressing them 
downwards ; in this way all that belonged to 
them came away at once, but when a knife is 
used, a part is left on which sometimes 
decays in the stem, and causes injury to and 
destroys the plant. The rooted offsets should be 
potted Bingly in small pots, adding a little sand 
to the compost to lighten it. Those which possess 
no portion of root should be planted firmly, five 
or six round the sides of a 6-inch pot, and be 
pluDged under a handlight and kept close till 
rooted. The plants from which the offsets have 
been taken should be potted deeper, so as to 
cover the wounded stem with soil and encourage 
fresh roots to break away. H, in removing the 
offsets, holes are made in the main stems, fill 
them up with powdered charcoal to keep out 
damp and decay. 

Genebal Tbeatment. 

After potting, and indeed at all times in 
winter, the watering must be done with care. 
All this family like moisture and shade, but 
stagnation causes the leaves to lose colour, and 
an unhealthy plant is a difficult subject to deal 
with. The frames will require shelter in cold 
weather, but during winter, if a fall of snow 
comes, the plants may be covered up for several 
weeks without injury. In spring, when the 
days lengthen, the frame should be turned with 
its back to the north, as the plants will not 
endure bright sunshine. In summer the plants 
may be placed on a coal-ash bed on the north 
side of a building or high fence, where the rays 
of the sun in the middle of the day cannot 
penetrate. At all times when the weather is 
mild the most perfect ventilation is required, 
even to the extent on calm days of taking off 
the lights altogether. Light she were in the 
spring, when growth is proceeding, will be bene¬ 
ficial rather than otherwise. But if water lodges 
in the hearts of the plants it may do harm if 
not removed, either by absorbing it with a small 
bit of sponge or blowing it out; or take the 
plant in the hand and reverse its position. The 
green-fly is sometimes troublesome during the 
growing season, and it is better to meet these 
pests by anticipation by dusting a little Tobacco 
powder among the plants occasionally in the 
spring, or fumigate lightly, without waiting for 
the fly to appear. The flower trusses will need 
support as they advance in growth, and if very 
fine flowers are sought, only one spike should be 
left on each plant. 

The work of hybridising, saving seeds, and 
raising seedlings where a good collection is cul¬ 
tivated, is most interesting; indeed, no one can 
go properly into their culture without wishing 
for the general excitement of seeing a progeny 
springing up which in some measure owe their 
origin to his own hands. The seed pods should be 
carefully collected as they ripen, and be placed 
away in the condition in which they are gathered 
till spring, when the seeds should be sown in boxes 
or pans, covering lightly. A little bottom heat 
will cause them to germinate more speedily, but 
the old florists seldom use it, preferring to trust 
to natural means alone. Where pains have been 
taken to cross different varieties, a pedigree book 
should be kept, otherwise we should be working 
in the dark. The young seedlings will not 
endure bright sun, even for nn hour, so must be 
constantly shaded. 

This article, short and imperfect as it is, would 
not be complete without some reference to the 
Auricula and its relatives, the Polyanthus and 
Primula, as border plants. In a cool shady 
border ip the early spring a perfect paradise 


Aug. 11, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


261 


may bo created with this family alone ; in fact, 
no other distinct race is capable of doing so 
much to inspire affection, or clings so tightly 
round the hearts of those who once commence 
their culture; and in the open-air, if the position 
is well selected, and if art helps nature as much 
as she ay, the Primula garden will in spring be 
one of the sweetest, brightest features imagi¬ 
nable. The one thing to be constantly kept in 
mind is that Primulas will not thrive in the 
full sunshine. Auriculas of the alpine sec¬ 
tion are specially adapted for furnishing 
any cool, shady corner of the rockery, 
where, in association with the Cyclamen and 
other shade-loving subjects, very effective groups 
and features may be created. In country places 
there are hundreds of situations where, in a 
natural dell, a Primula garden may be formed 
.superior to anything of the kind most of us have 
ever yet seen. It only requires to be set about 
by some one full of love of the subjects and 
possessing some knowledge of their requirements. 
The expense would be a mere nothing in com¬ 
parison with other forms of gardening. 


supply the sorts of plants you require.- T. R. H .—We 

cannot name any particular apparatus.- Fair Play. — 

We fear we cannot help you. Unless we saw the gardens 
referred to, we could not express an opinion on their 

merits.- Amateur.— Yes ; a potful of Lilium auratum 

and Achimenes would ba admissible.- Tondiweight. — 

We know of no such book. If you describo your conser¬ 
vatory, no doubt Borne of our readers will be able to help 
you. 

Names of fruit.— Bcxhill.— Your fruits were quite 
rotten when we received them. 

Names of plants.— H. P M —Carnation Souvenir 
de la Malmaison.- Miss Brenan. —1, Ourisla coccinsa ; 

2, Pen to tern on pubescens.- Mrs. Butler and Burkill .— 

Veratrum nigrum- S. P.— We do not name varieties 

of Carnations.- M. C. D.— 2, Asplenium bulbiferum ; 

3, Polypodium plumosum; 6, Pteris acrrulata; 6, Pterls 

argyrea.- T. A .—We do not name sortB of Pelargonium 

or Geranium.- II. C. D.— Caper Spurge (Euphorbia 

Lathyrla).- P. M.— We do not name sorts of Fuchsias. 

- J. Lingley. -We have no recollection of the plant 

you Bay you sent Kindly send again, and we will 

endeavour to give you information respecting it.- 

II. M. Dyer.— Kindly send us bloom.- E. K. T.— Kccre- 

raocarpus scaber.- H. A.— Kalosanthes coccinea; 2, 

we cannot tell without Boeing the flower.- E. C 

Onosma tauriea. 


QUERIES. 


E. Hobday. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCBLLANEOB8.) 

10966 and 10084. —Plants for rookery.- 
For a rockery facing south, the best rock plants 
■toper are the native Sedums. Two of these 
-on white flowers, ,S. album and 8. anglicum, 
now freely amongst and over the stones, and 
key are well set off by the yellow-flowered S. 
*re (Common Stonecrop) and S. liexangulare 
'Vhorled Stonecrop) planted betwixt them. The 
,-hucous Sedums should not be forgotten. The 
(eculiar hue of the leaves has a pleasing effect 
iaongst the green and brown of the others. The 
rtite and also the pink S. oppositifolium are 
seful for covering large spaces of bare earth, 
nether there are stones on it or not. The Saxi- 
iatres, particularly the mossy kinds such as 
Common Lady's Cushion, in a damp situation 
ud not much exposed to the sun, will soon cover 
, rones and all.—P. K. 

10060. —Olay soil.—I would top-dress with 
m lime in the autumn. Then throw the soil 
ato trenches during winter, so as to expose 
a large a surface of the top and under 
, rail to the winter weather as possible. 1 would 
pant Myatt’s Prolific and Magnum Bonum or 
■ otch Champion Potatoes, using one half arti- 
:dal manure, Hill’s concentrated recommended, 
nth a slight additional dressing of kainit. Any 
f the ordinary Greens will do well enough if 
fains be taken to plant only hard, short, stubby 
iaots, using a good dressing of Hill’s concern 
luted, and by all means raise these plants 
irself.—R. H. 

9996.— A weedy garden— A weedy garden 
1 not an unmixed evil if on a heavy soil. The 
\ s procedure will be to clear off the top growth 
i ; cutting and laying the stuff up in heaps, then 
) a up the soil, and rake ont as much of the 
J ts and undergrowth as possible, laying them 

tn rf rxr Whan r\ rxr Vtnrn if. fn ci a Vine Trnnnh 




s to dry. When dry, burn it to ashes. Trench 
•♦"round two spits deep, laying the top growth 
reds into the bottom spit, and mix the ashes 
': the top spit as that is broken up. By that 
>:edure the roots of Couch, Creeping Sonr- 
i, Creeping Buttercup, &c., are destroyed, 
seeds will not come up through 2 feet of 
artk—J. D. 

10050.—Hardy plants In London.—I 
a?e found Wallflowers planted in spring 
-:wer well in a garden in Cromwell Road. 

rations, too, do well. Double red and white 
Rifles do very well if planted early in the year, 
■ixire de Dijon Rose has not flowered with me, 
xinay garden looks north, and so gets no sun in 
ar ?«Dn and winter. Madame Plantier, a white 
has flowered and grown fairly well; but I 
try Gloire de Dijon in “Kensington’s” 
Nation, and plant in November, mulching with 
ruiure or leaf-mould to keep out frost.—L. D. 

<0*.—Weeds on lawns.— I see in Gardening an 
Jnffejy to how to treat a lawn infested with Prunella 
v r On every patch put guano; It will kill the weed 

ljnifeot the Grass or Dutch Clover.—A. M. 


See dHng Rose.— West Drayton. — The Ito3o sent 
> no special merits. 

Hendon. _We could discover nr/ insect on th 

v nt eire pt red spider. - <?reen/iewe.-|We nt S 

-e address you ask for. Any gohd flumryma] 


Rules for Correspondents.—AH communica¬ 
tions for insertion should be clearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
and address of the sender is required , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day of publication , it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flotccrs only 
can be named at one time , and this only when good 
specimens are sent. We do not undertake, to name 
varieties cfflorist s' flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
specialist who has the means of comparison at hand. Any 
communication reacting plants or flowers lent to name 
should always accompany the parcel. 

10116 . — Strawberry and Onion culture. — I 
would be glad if some of your correspondents would 
give me their opinion on the following subject: — I 
planted Strawberry plants in my garden at the beginning 
of last year. The ground had about 1 foot of clay spread 
over the surface, and they gave me a few fruit. In the 
autumn I took up the plants and trenched the ground, 
bringing the good soil to the top and mixing plenty of 
cow manure witli it. In January I bedded round the 
plants with horse manure, and the result has been that 
they have given plenty of runners, but no fruit. What 
is the reason ? And I sowed a bed of Onions according 
to the directions of one of your correspondents, that was 
by first digging the bed, and then spreading horse manure 
and covering with soil so as to see here and there a straw 
through. 1 then sowed the seed and covered lightly 
with soil riddled over. The result has been that, although 
a good crop came up, when they arrived about the thick¬ 
ness of a little Anger they all rotted o!F nt the bottom. 
One of my neighbours had the best crop of Onions that 
ever I saw, and they are all gone the same way, although 
his were sown by a very experienced gardener.—H. W. 

10117.—Growing Mushrooms and Cucumbers 
together. —Some few weeks back I saw in a copy of 
Gardening (which I have unfortunately mislaid) that a 
correspondent advocates the plan of growing Mush¬ 
rooms and Cucumbers together in the same frame. I 
should feel greatly obliged if he would put me right oil 
the following points. Should the spawn be placed in the 
frame before Cucumbers have finished fruiting, or can 
pieces of spawn bo put in at once ? After the spawn is 
in should the frame be darkened? Must there he a 
top-dressing of manure, either new or old? How long 
after spawning may I look for a crop ? Any information 
on tills subject will be thankfully received. My Cucum¬ 
bers at the time of writing have been planted about two 
months; they are still bearing. I have trusted for 
bottom-heat to lawn mowings, a little new and old 
manure, and litter.—I nterrogative. 

10118.—The Potato crop.—I should be glad if any 
competent writer on the Potato would kindly favour us 
readers with a short paragraph on the present prospects 
of the noble tuber, with special reference to the most pro¬ 
mising varieties for the exhibition table. One variety, 
called Cosmopolitan, I have found anything but satisfac¬ 
tory with me, having purchased one pound through a 
local seedsman last spring. It is of poor quality, yellow 
flesh, and by no means of a particularly handsome appear¬ 
ance, although grown in a light, sandy, well-drained soil. 
Can this really bo the true variety ? If so, I have had 
quite sufficient of that sort. Snowflake, Woodstock 
Kidney. Bountiful, and Covent Garden Perfection have 
so far done remarkably well, being very fine and of excel¬ 
lent quality.—X. Y. Z. 

10119.—Woodwardia radlcans.—I havoaWood- 
wardla radlcans. It has five fronds, two of which are 
badly deformed, and one of which is hardly full grown 
yet. The healthy fronds are about 40 inches in leugth, 
and the pot is a 15-inch one. The person who gave it to 
me told me It ought to have no water on the surface of the 
pot, but ought to stand in a pan full of water. Is this 
right? The soil is moist and healthy, but is entirely 
covered with a thick carpet of Lycopodium Moss, which 
gives the plant a very pleasing appearance. Is tho Lyco¬ 
podium likely to hurt the plant My only reason for 
writing is that I thought a plant of the size of this one 
ought to have had from fifteen to twenty healthy fronds 
instead of five, of which two are deformed. There are two 
more fronds coming up, but no signs of more.—W. F. 

10120.—Blight in Roses.—A blight is now, and has 
T some weeks past, appeared on tfle Rose trees here. It 


has not affected their flowering or tho beauty and 
abundance of their bloom. On the foliage it is general, 
and I hear that some of my neighbours are visited by the 
same epidemic. On first looking at their leaves the idea 
is suggested of some fungus or vegetable parasite, but in 
holding them up in a strong light it becomes evident that 
they are riddled, the pulp being consumed and the fibre 
left, which seems to evidence the work of some insect. It 
is feared by boido persons that this destruction of the 
foliage will end in the perishing of the plants. Will 
some reader of Gardening give some information on the 
subject, and suggest what remedial measures should be 
pursued, and how soon ?— Mrs. Johnstone. 

10121.—' Wintering 1 plants.—In the spring I sowed 
seeds of Paasies, Pinks, Carnations, Lychnis, Geums. 
Antirrhinums, and Giant Polyanthus. They are all 
transplanted out of the seed boxes into other boxes 
and kept in a frame, which is at back of house on a brick 
pavement. What I want to know is if the above plants 
can be kept in said boxes all winter, as I shall have no 
garden till the spring; also, could I keep cuttings of 
Pansies and Violas in the same way? They will get no 
sun during winter. I have another frame filled with 
Geraniums, Fuchsias, Ac., which I would like to preserve 
through the winter also. Any information as to heating 
the frame will be thankfully received. — LOVER op 
Flowers. 

10122 .—Strawberry house.—I am about to erect 
a house in which to force Strawberries during the winter. 
Will any reader kindly inform me how it had best be con¬ 
structed ? Would it be necessary to have bottom as well 
as top-heat? What average temperature must I main¬ 
tain ? If I buy extra strong plants in pots, can I grow 
them on in the same pots, or must they be put in 
larger, or in the borders? Will the flowers require 
setting by hand ? When must I begin to force them to 
have fruit ready for Christmas ? What kind will be best 
for that purpose ? Is there a good oook published on the 
subject? Any information on their treatment will be 
welcomed.—G. W. D. 

10123.—Grubs in pand.—Outside the porch of a 
brick house, on a side wall of the porch, a lump of sand was 
observed, at first small, but gradually growing larger. It 
was carefully removed, and Inside was found a white grub 
about the size of a maggot. Tho grub was resting in a 
hollow place in the lump, as if it had been made fora 
nest. What kind of a grub would it be ? iiow could it 
procure the sand, for the mortar between tho bricks was 
apparently untouched ; and of what use could it be ? Tho 
circumstance sounds curious, and it is certainly an In¬ 
teresting one.— Miss 8. 

10124.—Broccoli.—Will some reader of Gardening 
kindly give the following information respecting the cul¬ 
tivation of this vegetable: — Having an excellently 
protected garden in capital soil and drainage, I am 
anxious to grow it to perfection, and have heads to cut 
all the year round if possible. To attain this end I 
desire to know the best manure, when to sow the seeds, 
tho best variety to cultivate, and length of time re¬ 
quired to mature after being finally planted out?— 
Dixon. 

10125.—Unfruitful Pear trees.—I have a number 
of Tear trees which have been grown as pyramids. They 
have been partly pruned in the summer, and in the 
winter cut back to one or two eyes. In the spring they 
throw out a quantity of useless shoots, and for the last 
three or four years I got scarcely any fruit I may say. I 
cannot allow them to grow without pruning, as they 
would shade the rest of the garden. Can any reader 
advise me what to do to make them fruit ?—A. II. L. 

10126.—Mildew on Vines.—I should be glad if 
any of your numerous readers would give me their ex¬ 
perience as to the best treatment of Vines suffering 
from mildew. I hare tried sulphur, Tobacco water, 
soft soap, also Kir tree oil in rain water without any 
effect. Would fumigating with sulphur kill the Vines as 
well as disease, and is it better to continue syringing and 
watering at the roots while they aie in this state?— 
PETER. 

10127.—Ferns damping. — Will someone kindly 
advise me, as a constant reader of your valuable journal, as 
to what I can do to prevent my Ferns from damping 
and spotting ? My house is a lean-to, about 12 feet by 
9 feet, facing the east. The roof is of thick-ribbed glass, 
ventilators on back wall. There is a good supply of 
hot-water pipes for heating when required. I keep 
nothing else in the house but ferns.— Leamingtonicum. 

10128 .—Begonia buds falling off.—I have a fine 
Begonia, very healthy, but the buds drop off and do not 
open. What must I do with it? It is in a bay window, 
south-east aspect, kept open day and night 2 inches at 
top, with other plants that are doing welL I have seen 
earth worms peeping through the bottom of the pot. Is 
that the cause? Does it want much or little water?— 
M. E. W. 

10129.—Vegetable refuse as manure.—I have 
a heap of garden refu»e composed of Potato haulm, Cab¬ 
bage, Lettuce leaves, &c., which I intended digging in 
as my ground became vacant, but am told it should al¬ 
ways be used in a green state. As mine is nearly all 
decomposed, will it have 1 any bad effect upon the next 
crops? Any information would greatly oblige.—M. B. D. 

10130.—Club in Cabbages.— Wo plautcd some 
early Cabbages in spring, and as they did not seem to 
thrive,we pulled some up and found them “club footed.” 
The plants were not of our own sowing. Since theu some 
Savoys seem to be going in a similar manner. Can any- 
ono tell me the reason and suggest a remedy? la it 
caused by the soil ?—Tiustlk. 

10131.—Grapes shrivelling.—Can anyone tell me 
the cause of Black Hamburgh Grapes shrivelling and going 
sour when they arc colouring ? They have air both night 
and day, and had fire heat up till the first week in July. 
Wliat can I do to prevent the grapes in a cold house from 
going tho same ? They have had a good watering, and arc 
just beginning to colour.— Troublesome. 

10132.—Chrysanthemums out of season. — I 
send a bloom of Mrs. G. Bundle Chrysanthemum from a 
cutting taken last December. I have three or four plants 
in flower, and should be glad to know if this is usual. I 
did not expect then, to flower until November. The 
cuttings were struck In a cold frame, and have been In 
the open air since the end of April —f*. M. MARTIN. 



262 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Aug. 1], 1883. 


10133. - Stocks from cuttings. — Will someone 
kindly tell me what is the proper time and method for 
striking euttinga from double Stocks, and also what com¬ 
post should be used ? I tried a number in Augustlast 
year, but the cuttings were all well in bloom when taken. 

1 am afraid I left it too late, as not one of them grew.— 

F. D. 

10134.—Spot on Bose leaves.— I should be obliged 
for any advice about this Bpot on Rose leaves ; the plants 
seem thriving till just as they begin to blow, then the 
leaves gradually are destroyed by it, and of course the 
bloom. Can soil or situation have anything to do 
with it ? They are on a slope towards the south-west.— 

8. T. 

10135.—Fluea smoking.—What is the best remedy 
for stopping flue-pipes Bmoking ? They are earthenware, 
and extend round two sides of the greenhouse about a 
foot above ground, with brickwork at the elbows; the 
joints of the pipes and brickwork are cemented together, 
nut the heat cracks the cement, and the smoke then 
breaks through .—A. C. 

10186.—Grubs in Currant trees.—A grub com¬ 
pletely wrecks and ruins my Currant bushes, Rose 
bushes, fruit trees, Ac. I have tried them with vari¬ 
ous washes, but they are too securely entrenched in 
the leaf to be put about. Can anyone suggest a remedy, or 
tell me what are their future developments ?-J. M. D. 

10137.—Caterpillars on Roses.— My standard 
Roses have been doing fairly well until these last two or 
three weeks, when l notice that the leaves are covered 
with small green caterpillars, and the whole trees present 
a miserable appearancs. What is the best remedy ?— 
Hekan. 

10138.—Bark eat3n oft Apple trees—I planted 
last year and the year before several Apple trees. The 
bark of some of them has been quite eaten away to the 
extent of 2 inches or 3 inches—almost round the stem— i 
so much so that the trees are dying. What is the cause, 
and is there any cure ?—J. T. 

10139.— Strawberries in pots. — I have some 
Strawberries in pots which were potted last year but did 
not fruit, simply from wrong treatment at the proper 
time. Would they do as well as new runners and make 
a plantation in the open ground? They are good plants. 

—J. 

10140.— Azaleas turning brown.—I have put my 
Azaleas out-of-doors on the north side of the house, but 
the leaves at the bottom of new shoots are turning brown 
in blotches, and drooping. What is the reason, and what 
should I do to them ? One put out at the same time 
which had made longer growth looks better—L. D. 

10141.— Pots for Lilies.—What sized pots ought 
Lilium auratum to be in when they are blooming ? Also, 
what additional treatment do they require at this time, 
and the treatment after they have finished blooming? 
Any advice on the cultivation of this most excellent Lily 
would be acceptable.—H eran. 

10142.—Irises and Lilies.—As I intend making a 
bed of Irises and Lilies this autumn, I would feel much 
obliged if someone would kindly mention the most suit¬ 
able soil and the best varieties of both plants to grow ?— 
W. G. K. 

10143.—Driving bees.—I am desirous of driving an 
old hive of bees, and should be glad if any experienced 
apiarian could give me the best and Barest method of 
proceeding, as I am not at all acquainted with the pro¬ 
cess.—J. C. M. 

10144 .—Saving Melon seed—I grow Melons and 
Cucumbers In the same house. Will seed saved from the 
Melons produce good fruit? Some people say the seed 
degenerates if Melons and Cucumbers are grown toge¬ 
ther.—J uno. 

10145.—Show Pelargoniums.—What is the proper 
treatment for show Pelargoniums when they have done 
flowering ? I have a very fine one with plenty of new 
strong Bhoots. Must I cut it down ? It has bloomed pro¬ 
fusely.—M. E. W. 

10146.—Growing Cucumbers.— I am growing 
Cncumbera in a house, and want to train them along the 
top rafters ; how am I to proceed? Will they bear three 
Btems each ? How am I to know when the fruit is ready 
to cut?—G. W. D. 

10147.— Horse Radish.— I have a bed of Horse 
Radish. In June I dug up some roots and found them 
very poor. Can anyone give me the best ways of culture ? 
Also, may it be used all the year round ? The plants 
are large and three years old.—Z iq-Zag. 

10148.—Pruning Peach trees.—Should the hew 
wood be shortened back; if so, to how many leaves; 
and should much be cut out now? Fruit is partly ripe. 
— P. B. 

10149 .—Early Strawberries.—Wlmt is the earliest 
Strawberry for a Btrong, loamy soil on limestone ; quali¬ 
ties required, early ripening, good flavour, and an abun¬ 
dant cropper ?—G. O. S. 

10150.—Plants for winter blooming—Names of 
a few good plants for winter and spring flowering in a 
cool greenhouse (say at 40® to §0° in winter) would 
oblige.—E. W. C. 

10151.—Cypripediums and Eucharls.—I shall 
feel obliged if some reader will 1 ell me what treatment 
Cypripedium vitroaum, Eucharls, and Stephanotis re¬ 
quire.—L yra. 

10152.—Planting Violets—How and when must 
out door Violets be planted, and what are the best kinds 
and the mode of treatment 7—M., Kirkby Lonsdale. 

10153 .—Potting-soll.—Will someone kindly let me 
know the best method of preparing soil for potting pur¬ 
poses ?—Zigzag. 

10154.—Pruning Rhododendrons.—Would it be 
safe now to cut back straggly-growing Hybrid Rhodo¬ 
dendrons ?—E. W. C. 

10155.—Climbers for greenhouse—The names of 
a few good flowering climbers for a cool greenhouse would 
oblige.—R W. C. 


POULTRY. 


Plymouth Rooks. — \"irgo. — We can 
strongly recommend this breed as an all-round 
nseful bird, being very hardy, easily reared, 
good layers and sitters. They are of American 
origin, where they are greatly esteemed, stand¬ 
ing the severe winters there well, and often 
laying every day through that season. This, of 
course, applies only to pullets of the same year, 
which may be hatched out with safety in 
January or February, and, if well fed and housed, 
will, nine cases out of ten, commence to lay in 
the following August or September, and continue 
throughout the winter. We should never think 
of crossing a Plymouth Rock with any other 
variety, as, strictly speaking, they are only a 
cross-bred variety themselves, most probably 
between a Cochin and a Dorking, but they can 
now be bred very true. We do not call them a 
very handsome fowl, but there is something very 
genuine and useful about their appearance. 
Their flesh is very white and delicate. The 
plumage resembles the cuckoo Dorking, the 
ground colour being dark blue-grey or steel, 
with each feather crossed or shaded with a 
darker blue. The crossing should be clearly de¬ 
fined to the eye throughout the whole body, 
single comb, moderate in size, small, well- 
rounded wattles, broad, flat back, breast promi 
nent and full, tail full and carried well up, and 
with legs short, stont, bright yellow in colour, 
and f urniBhed with four toes only. Cocks should 
weigh from nine to ten pounds, and hens about 
seven. The general aspect of the bird is solid 
and compact.— Andalusian. 

Hens eating their egge.— This is a bad 
habit and difficult of cure, and generally con¬ 
tracted by a sitting hen breaking some of the 
eggs she is hatching. Try by filling an egg with 
mustard, a very good plan also for curiDg a dog 
which is in the habit of eating eggs. If this 
fails, and the hen is not a favourite or a valu¬ 
able bird, kill her; but the plan of a nest with a 
false bottom is a sure preventive; a board which 
forms an incline plane is used, down which the 
egg rolls, and is directed into a receptacle 
beneath, and it is then beyond the hen's reach. 
A nest egg should be sunk half way through and 
fastened with cement, but this can be dispensed 
with, unless it be an absolute necessity. —P. 

An egg within an egg .—Samuel Fudge.— Not at 
all an uncommon occurrence. 


Grubs In gardens-—- 4 - toad I 
tried with grubs of dadu < U n«ki 
moat voraciously, - more pc west 


i a garden near me was 
biand swallowed them 

I nan."—C roauus. 


Management of ringdoves. — In 

answer to " A Lover of Birds,” I believe that 
ringdoves should be paired off separately, and 
that having more than one hen to a single cock 
would not succeed. Very probably it was one 
of the other henB which broke the eggs. I have 
kept doves only a short time, but have reared 
three broods quite successfully in a conserva¬ 
tory. I now let them loose out-of-doors like 
pigeons, and they seldom leave the neighbour¬ 
hood of the house for long together. I feed 
them on wheat, seed, and bread-crumbs, and 
never give moist food, but abundance of water 
for drinking and bathing. If the eggs are 
small or Boft, some mortar and gravel should be 
pnt in the cage for the birds to peck at. 
Columba. 

_ Doves should be in pairs; two or three 

hens and one cock kept together would be sure 
to lead to no good result, as they are very quar¬ 
relsome. I find the best food to be two parts 
good wheat and one part of millet. A little 
hempseed should be given as a treat, also a little 
stale bread crumbs. I have not found doves 
care about green food, but if they like it, it 
will not harm them. Clean water for drinking 
and a pan for bathing in are very important. 
Old mortar and fine gravel must also be sup¬ 
plied, as birds cannot keep in health without. 
—H. Budge. 

BIRDS. 

Virginian nightingale.— The staple food 
of this bird consists of canary seed, millet, oats, 
hemp seed, Indian corn, and sunflower seed. For 
my bird, which is kept in an outdoor aviary, I 
obtain a mixture of suitable seeds from Mr. 
Hawkins, of 6, Bear Street, Leicester Square, 
W.C., as also tins of a prepared food, a little of 
which I give every day. Two or three spiders or 


smaller ones if I can get them. I find the best 
plan is to drop them into a shallow cup or some- ' 
thing ont of which they cannot get, but the bird 
can reach them. Two or three mealworms two 
or three times a week should be given. They - 
can be obtained at most bird dealers' shops. I pay 
Id. per dozen for them, and keep them in’a small 
open jar with some flour and stale bread crumbs; 
under these circumstances the grubs flourish and 
increase in size. The Virginian nightingale is 
a shy but very active bird, and should have a 
large cage. Like most other birds, it is fond of 
a bath. Green food and ripe fruit should also be 
given.—H. Budge. 

Parrots. —For some months past I have 
been reading the questions asked in Garden¬ 
ing about parrots, and looking for answers to 5 
them, but as there have been but few replies, I , 
will, for the benefit of your readeis, give my 1 
experience of twenty years’ parrot-keeping. I 
have had one—a beautiful South African red- , 
tailed grey—in my possession about fifteen or - 
sixteen years. He was a mere ball of fluff > 
when given to me by a friend returning from , 
Calcutta, and was brought over on Indian com 
or maize and plain water, which certainly is a 
natural food when in a wild state; bnt caging 
alters constitution and digestive powers. A man 
who feeds heavily and stays at home suffers 
from indigestion, gout, and dropsy; not so if he • 
goes to work and seeks his living, then he can 
with gusto eat and digest commoner food and 
thrive on it. So with a parrot deprived of 
exercise j it requires more delicate feeding '■ 
regularly, but not to waste, for they are naturally 
greedy, and if given more than required will be " 
continually eamng and throwing the food about, z 
My bird has never been known to moult, is * 
always well, happy, and very amusing. First I F 
mixed hemp seed with his maize till by degrees 1 
I withdrew the latter, then canary seed with the v 
hemp, gradually each day decreasing one and a 
adding the other, until the food was entirely «a 
changed to canary seed only and fresh, cold 1 , 
water, which I supplied every morning. Once tv 
a week about a teaspoonful of hemp seed is 
mixed with the canary seed. Hempseed impairs *1 
digestion; never give meat, cake, biscuit, milk.ft 
or anything that contains the slightest kind of 
grease, or salt, or pepper. Avoid sop and hot food, o 
A little dry bread and as much raw fruit as you 
like. Celery is a treat now and then. The causesj 
of feathers not returning after a moult areijj 
feeding on meat, oats, hot potatoes, milk sop, i, 
and salt in particular. Try a rusty nail for a*, 
week in fresh, cold water, a crust of dry bread, .| 
canary seed with a good sprinkling of milk of;.; 
sulphur, and the bird, if not too fax gone, willq 
recover. “ Yeadon ” should try this, and for thav-, 
first day or two mix a little hemp seed. Feed-, 
only once a day in the morning; keep very clean,). 
and avoid draughts.—A. H. Folker, Guildford 
Canary breeding.—Would someone kindly let me, 3 
know It it is too late to commence canary breeding this . 
year ; should I stand any chance of success?—C.W.H. 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 


u 

_ 1 

Food reform.—As a vegetiat two and a half yearftl 
old, 1 and no book ot recipes more useful than this, 
"Penny Vegetarian Cookery,” published by the Vepe^ 
tarlan Society, 65, Peter Street, Manchester, and “Health 
giving Dishes," price Id., published by Nichols * to., 25 
Oxford Street, W.—P. S. 

Candled Vegetable Marrows.—Can any reade i; 
give a recipe for preserving Vegetable Marrows In pieces;. 
Last year mine all went to the consistency ol jam.-; 
Fanny. ' 

Blackberry jam.—Four pounds berries, 2! pound**? 
barberries, 4 pounds sugar. Boil the blackberries wm 
1 pound sugar till the seeds can be strained out. Put trvL 
pulp into the pan with the barberries (which should h 
carefully picked) and the rest of the sugar, and bor : 
twenty minutes.—I ris. 

Elder flower wine.-I should be glad if someone wi^ 
tell me how to make Elder flower wine, not Mderbcrt^ 
wine. I tasted it years ago, and it is of a lui, 
colour, and in flavour resembles scented Moselle.—" 

Pot-pourri. — I want a good but simple red f i 
for making pot-pourri. Should spice be mixed with Ko1»j 
leaves, and what will prevent them from mildewing 
Fytuoness. 

Spruce beer.—Will someone tell me the sjmpU * 
and lsest method of making spruce beer and heath bec 'ti 

_j> . j 

Cider vinegar.—Will someone kindly give mn i: 
good recipe for making vinegar from cider?-llA , 

GUERITE. . 1 

Preserving Beans and Peas. —Will some real 
oblige by giving the best redpe for preserving FreeF 
Beans and Peas for winter use?—BUSTICA. , 

Balt for perch and tench.—Will someone kl:5 
tell me what Is the proper belt for perch and tench 


beetles are a treat; the common house black J ^avc a pond with many in, bat am unable to catch ihd 
beetle will do very well. I generally give the I -8., Staffordshire^ 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED, 


Vot. V. 


AUGUST 18, 1883. 


No. 232. 


THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE. 

Construction. 


( Should the force of the foregoing reasons be 
admitted, and we decide upon giving cold-house 
gardening the fair trial it deserves, if only on 
Uie score of suitability, let us make up our minds 
to start right from the very beginning : —firstly, 
in the construction of the building; and secondly, 
in our choice of plants to cultivate in it. First, 
then, with regard to the house itself, two plans 
(amongst others) are open to choose from. The 
conservatory proper, adjoining the dwelling, 
into which one or more of the living-rooms can 
enter; or the glass garden, either span-roof or 
lean-to, according to taste, separate and distinct 
from the dwelling. For each of these houses I 
propose to recommend a different style of 
gardening. 

The conservatory.— By the conservatory 
proper, I mean a house which can be seen and 
entered from the sitting-rooms, and which is 
devoted to plants in full perfection of beauty, 
than which (with one or two provisos borne well 
| in mind) there can be no more charming 
arrangement. It must not be forgotten, how¬ 
ever, that a conservatory entails of necessity a 
second house, be it vinery or sunk frame, or any 
other plant structure that is most convenient, in 
which the plants can be stowed during their 
trowing time. For which purpose great use can 
tlso be made of cold frames, or even, on occa- 
rion, of an ordinary hotbed or Cucumber pit. 
A conservatory need not be as large as its 
somewhat grandiloquent name would imply, 
tnd I often wish that some simpler word could 
be coined for a glass house in which to show 
plants bat not to grow them; for at present there 
s ■ none. In fact, for an amateur, it is better 
that the conservatory should be small, as it in- 
-olves considerable time and labour to keep it 
in order. My own is but 13 feet by 9 feet, yet 
it is quite large enough to hold a hundred plants 
ind more if I choose—to afford passage room 
between the drawing-room and dining room— 
sod when required, space for a couple of chairs. 
But there are certain points in the construction 
aid management of a conservatory upon which 
I should wish to lay great stress; and these are 
as follows :—Such a house must be thoroughly 
dry—watertight over-head, and tiled underfoot. 
Ventilation must be most carefully provided for, 
a good system of shading mast be arranged, the 
boose must be used exclusively for plants in pots, 
and all furniture, such as stages, Ac.— of which 
the less the better—must be easily removable. 

! It will be well to say a few words nnder each 
of the above heads, because some of them may 
appear to be needless, and may very possibly be 
objected to. But experience teaches, and I 
desire to place mine at the disposal of all whom 
:t may serve. A conservatory opening into 
firing-rooms must be kept as dry as is consistent 
with the welfare of the plants in it. In potting 
ip the honse, which, more often than not, is 
Hkeiy to be a lean-to, see that the pitch of the 
roof is at the best possible angle for shooting off 
fiie rain. Also take care to use that 
System of blazing which will effectually pre¬ 
vent drip. It is always the wisest course to seek 
the assistance of some well-known and good hor- 
ticnltaral building firm, as improvements in this 
md other matters of construction are continually 
being adopted. It may be more expensive at 
irst, but will assuredly be more economical in 
the end. Drip is a great nuisance, and more 
specially so in a cold house, as the hardiest 
tiants are liable to suffer from stagnant damp 
hr more than from frost. For the flooring nothing 
rawers better than good, plain tiles, terra-cotta 
"clour, or terra-cotta with black or buff. Bright 
wloured tiles should be carefully avoided, as 
hey never harmonise well with either foliage or 
krwers. Tiles, being set in. a good bed of Port¬ 
end cement, keepout all ground damp; moreover, 
is jammer, when plentiful syringing or damping 
'Sown is very beneficial for the plants, water may 
i* spilt upon tiles with impunity, as they dry 
la an incredibly short space of time, and no 
ha«i is done. While on"' this point it m iv as 
Hell be said that it is verj^dqpljaV e 


saucer under each plant. Drip from the pots is 
thus avoided. Each plant is sure to get a proper 
quantity of water, while such as need it (and 
only such) can easily be kept with a constant 
supply at their roots. Water is economised, 
while there is no unnecessary damp. 

Thorough ventilation is the next essential 
point. It must be borne always in mind that 
the great aim and object of the cold greenhouse 
is shelter—not so much from frost or cold, as 
from cutting, pitiless winds—from destroying 
hail, snow or rain—from all the vicissitudes of 
onr changeable climate. And one grand diffi¬ 
culty with which we we have to contend in its 
construction is the regulation of the tempera¬ 
ture, which is apt to be raised by sun heat much 
higher than is at all needful. No one who has 
not tried it would believe the difference, either 
in quality or duration of blooming between plants 
which have opened their flowers under shelter, 
and the same in the open border; bnt a scorching 
beat wilhin, is fully as destructive (nay more so) 
to the beauty of flowering plants as a tearing 
wind, a beating down rain, or any other stress of 
weather without, can be. Therefore, take good 
heod that the house is so constructed that it is 
capable of being ventilated in the best posssible 
manner; and especially so as to exelude draught, 
which for Ferns, more particularly, is fatal. In 
the structure which I have termed the glass 
garden it might be well to be able at certain sea¬ 
sons and in certain states of the weather to raise 
the lights altogether. The method of ventilation, 
however, must depend entirely upon the con¬ 
struction and intention of the house. So long 
as cold draughts can be avoided, let the rale be, 
the more air the better. A good 

System of shading must be adopted. It 
may safely be taken as a general rule that grow¬ 
ing plants are the better for all the sunlight 
they can get, provided there is sufficient moisture 
at their roots and in theair about them to enable 
them to bear it. Even Ferns, which are shade- 
loving plants, can bear a great deal more sun 
and light than many people suppose. But it 
stands to reason that the full power of the sun’s 
rays at midday concentrated on the roof of a 
greenhouse, must create an unnatural heat, like 
that of a burning glass, which must he, to some 
extent, counteracted. On the other hand, over¬ 
shading, or anything like permanent shading, is 
most injurious, as the proper ripening of the 
tissues of plants, or maturation, cannot go on 
without sunlight. Shading is, in fact, a necessary 
evil, attendant on the unnatural conditions of 
plant culture under glass, and must be made a 
matter of study. Moreover, it should be made 
use of as little as need be. The key to the 
difficulty for the inexperienced is in remembering 
that dryness of soil and of atmosphere are to be 
avoided during the heat of summer more than 
sunlight; for plants, no less than all other 
living creatures, love the light. In my own green¬ 
house I have found the best shading to be blinds 
made of thin strips of wood painted green 
through which the light can pass freely and 
which give a softened shade, somewhat like that 
of subdued sunshine through foliage. These are, 
as I believe, called “ Claris ” on the Continent, 
where they are in constant use; but judging 
from the enquiries made concerning them by 
almost every visitor to my greenhouse, I 
imagine that they cannot be well known in 
England. Nothing can better answer the pur¬ 
pose of shading, and it might be well if some 
enterprising English firm were to take the 
matter into consideration, as at present they are 
not easily to be procured. In connection with 
this subject, the 

Aspect of the house is of the greatest im¬ 
portance. Attention should be given to it at the 
outset of forming a plan for any horticultural 
building, though it may not be always possible 
to place it in the most favourable position. 
During the summer an east aspect for either 
house or frames gives all that can be desired, as 
the plants can then have full light for the greater 
part of the day, and can be watered or syringed 
early in the afternoon. Plants, as a rule, will 
bear a greater amount of shade daring their 
blooming time than either before or after; but 


full light sho uld be admitted even then as much as 
possible. Certain plants, however, such as Jxias, 
Mesembryanthemums, some species of Oxalis, 
and others, open their flowers only in sunshine, 
a necessity of their nature which must be pro¬ 
vided for. For a cold house, a system of outside 
blinds of tiffany daring the summer, to be re¬ 
placed during the winter months by felt, if such 
could be arranged, might be adopted with great 
advantage, as an outside covering will keep ont 
many degrees of frost. But it must be borne in 
mind that outside shading, unless veiy well con¬ 
trived, is apt to interfere with a free circnlation 
of air and to impede ventilation. In some posi¬ 
tions good roller-blinds inside the roof answer 
the purpose of shading as well as any other 
plan, and can be easily drawn np when not 
required. It is advisable that the conservatory 
should be used exclusively for 

Plants in pots. Most people have a han¬ 
kering after some one, if not more, charming 
climber with which they would fain festoon 
their conservatory. Yet experience has tanght 
me that if we are wise we shall regard it as 
an axiom in the arrangement of any plant house 
opening upon a sitting-room that it shonld be 
possible to empty it completely at any conve¬ 
nient season, so that it may be thoroughly 
cleansed from top to bottom. Thus plants must 
be grown elsewhere and brought into the con¬ 
servatory merely for exhibition. Cleanliness and 
order are no less essential in gardening than in 
any other department of household economy— a 
fact which apparently is not unfrequently lost 
sight of. It is astonishing what an amount of 
decaying matter will accumulate in the course 
of every few weeks beneath the stands and in 
out-of-the-way corners, from fallen petals and 
other unsightly remains, to say nothing of the 
insects which will mysteriously find their way 
into the conservatory. Permanent climbers— 
in theory so seductive—even when, planted in an 
outside border and led in cannot be in beauty 
at all times of the year, and are apt when out of 
bloom to look shabby and unsightly; and when 
attacked by blight it is often a difficult matter 
to get rid of it without destroying the favourite 
plant altogether. Therefore, when climbers are 
desired, it is better to contrive a moveable trellis 
and to plant them in large pots or boxes, so that 
they can be sent back to their growing quarters 
at will. It is, undoubtedly, the case that all 
plants make stronger growth when not confined 
within the limits of a pot, but in such a honse as 
that to which 1 refer, even the narrowest border 
had better be avoided on account of damp, 
which is more injurious than any other condition 
of atmosphere in a plant-house kept during 
winter at a low temperature. 

The furniture of a conservatory, such as 
staging, Ac., is better to be small and easily re¬ 
moveable. Not only is this the case on the 
score of neatness and order already spoken of, 
but on that of arrangement, and for two 
reasons. First, because it is impossible to group 
plants of different habits of growth, and at all 
seasons, so as to look their best on the same 
heavy, immoveable stand. It is often convenient 
to place the plants on the floor itself, hiding the 
pots with an undergrowth of dwarf Ferns or 
Lycopodium, and raising others by means of 
some simple contrivance. Beautiful groups may 
be so arranged, while space is left above for 
hanging baskets or brackets. Light stands of 
wood or wire, according to any device that may 
occur to the deviser, to hold just one pot, and of 
different heights, are exceedingly useful for this 
kind of arrangement, and are less unsightly 
than the pots turned upside down, which are 
frequently used, and are difficult to hide with 
foliage. A few trays made of galvanized 
iron, of different sizes and shapes to suit the 
house, are also convenient, especially for plants 
(such as Gloxinias, which can be easily managed 
with the aid of a Cucumber frame for a cold 
greenhouse during summer) that like a moist 
atmosphere about them rather than being 
syringed over their foliage. The trays can be 
filled with sand or fine road grit washed clean, 
and kept continually moist for the plants to 
stand upon. Such simple contrivances will 





GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Aug. 18* 1883, 


occur to anyone interested in the subject, and 
will be found, to my way of thinking at least, 
to answer better in a general way than a pon¬ 
derous stage. It is a great advantage to be able 
to alter, at will, the whole aspect of your con¬ 
servatory. Variety is charming, and it is a 
matter of some surprise that the subject of 
arrangement in conservatory decoration does not 
receive more attention than at present it seems 
to have had bestowed upon it. It yet remains 
for the amateur gardener to take the lead in 
perfection of arrangement, and to bring artistic 
taste to aid in the grouping of the plants he 
loves to grow, so that their beauty may be 
enhanced instead of lessened, as it often is, 
simply by want of care and forethought on this 
point. While on the subject of plant-houses, it 
will be better to repeat that it is absolutely neces¬ 
sary, for the proper ordering of a conservatory, 
to have another working-house in which to grow 
your plants. The sum saved in the cost 
of the heating apparatus will go far towards 
meeting this requirement. Where your green¬ 
house is separate from the dwelling, it Bomewhat 
alters the case, but it also detracts very largely 
from its enjoyment. When a thing is worth 
doing at all, it is worth doing well, and it is far 
better from the beginning to make a plan for 
two houses, even if it should have to be done by 
degrees, rather than to muddle on with one, 
which would give much less pleasure, and endless 
annoyance and trouble. A very great deal may be 
accomplished by the use of 

Cold frames. —These are useful in forward¬ 
ing hardy winter-blooming and early spring 
flowers, until the time comes for bringing them 
into the conservatory, and are invaluable for 
hardy Primulas, Hepaticas, Myosotis dissitiflora, 
Saxifrages, and many other plants, of which the 
most charming groups can be arranged in the 
earliest months of the year. All plants, after 
their blooming time is over and their work 
done for the season, must have a period of rest, 
and a place to which they can be returned for 
that purpose. Numbers of good plants are lost 
simply from neglect after their flowering season, 
and from not knowing where to stow them. 
The most inexpensive frame, and one which is 
exceedingly useful for many purposes, is the so- 
called “ curate’s vinery," which can be put 
together by any handy village carpenter. A visit 
to one of the Horticultural Society’s shows at 
South Kensington, where glasshouses and frames 
of all kinds and prices are usually exhibited, 
will give as much information on this subject as 
any reasonable person can desire. But contri¬ 
vance is sweet. Was it not Prince Bismark who 
said that he did not envy the man who could 
immediately satisfy every whim, as he would 
then have nothing more to long for ? And it is 
part of an amateur’s pleasure in gardening to 
plan such little conveniences as money often 
cannot buy ready made. 

The glass garden. —Another plan, and one 
which may moreover be preferred by many 
to the conservatory, is to have tiie unheated 
greenhouse separate and entirely distinct from 
the dwelling-house; and, in this case, a different 
style of gardening might be indulged in, where 
permanent planting in borders should be the 
groundwork, and where pot plants should be 
made use of only for the sake of variety and 
change. It is obvious that the planting of such 
a garden under glass must be done in the first 
instance with the utmost care and judgment, 
and should be so arranged that at no time of 
year should it look otherwise than inviting. 
Especially should it be planned for winter and 
spring effects. Such a house may or may not be 
on a grand scale, though naturally a larger 
building would be desirable than in the case of 
the drawing-room conservatory. Nor will it be 
needful to guard quite so much against damp, 
for in the glass garden I would grow nothing 
that could be permanently injured by frost, yet 
I would choose nothing unworthy of the shelter 
of glass. A plentiful supply of water in the 
near neighbourhood of such a house would be of 
great importance. A good arrangement for a 
glass garden might be to have the borders for 
permanent planting at the sides and an open 
space gravelled or paved in the centre, on which 
groups of shrubs or plants in pots might be 
placed. The low side walls, or a portion of them, 
might be wired, and the spaced filled in with 
Bandy peat and leaf-mould, in which might be 
grown rare mosses^and ^tarf baiyl j Ferns, and 


sundry wall plants to make a back ground for 
some of the fairest of Lilies. Or some of the best 
evergreen flowering shrubs might be trained 
against the walls—Chimonanthus for winter 
fragrance. Camellias for early bloom. Choisya 
ternata would probably here succeed well, aDd 
several of the Tea Roses—Martehal Niel, Celine 
Forestier, Gloire de Dijon, and others—would be 
sure to open their sweet buds here considerably 
earlier than in the open air. In such a house 
Lapageria would thrive, or its shrubby congener 
Philesia buxifolia. Eugenia Ugni might be 
worth growing for the scent of its fragrant fruit. 
Brugmansias planted in the border, and cut 
down as soon as their beauty was over, would 
spring again with returning warmth, and 
answer much better than out-of-doors, where 
they seldom have time to develop all their 
flowers before frost destroys them. Many of the 
newer Salvias treated in the same way would 
make splendid specimens, e. g., S. Bethelli, which 
has survived the last winter with me in the open 
border. For the centre groups, hardy Palms and 
Ferns, with Rhododendrons and Azaleas, Lilacs, 
and Deutzias, Ac., could all be called into 
requisition, with hosts of other plants to suc¬ 
ceed them during the summer too numerous to 
mention here. Or we may have a humbler struc¬ 
ture, a span-roof with low side lights and a door 
atjeach end, made with removeable sashes, which 
can be replaced during summer by light frames 
covered with tiffany, or some other suitable 
material, to provide for shade, plenty of air and 
rain, and coolness. The lights in this case may 
be utilised during the summer months for the 
raising of Cucumbers or Melons, or of the rarer 
kinds of seeds which may not be trusted to the 
open ground. I remember the description of 
such a house being given in the pages of The 
Garden some eight or nine years ago. In it 
were neither hot-water pipes nor hot-air flue to 
bother the happy owner, who was under no great 
concern for his plants, even in the midst of the 
hardest of black frosts, as he took care to grow 
only such—and beautiful plants, too—as could 
pass through it scatheless; and who revelled in 
the fairest of spring bulbs and early flowers long 
before the open garden could afford more than a 
chance blossom here and there. In truth, there 
is no end to the uses and the delights of the 

Cold greenhouse, if we only know how 
to turn it to account. It is only for ns to 
make choice of that which best adapts itself 
to our tastes and to the capabilities of our 
location; to build our conservatory or our glass 
garden according to our means and our inclina¬ 
tions ; and to fill it by degrees with suitable 
foliage and flowers; and I have no hesitation in 
saying that the man who loves his plants will 
find greater enjoyment in his unheated green¬ 
house than a millionaire can gain from acres of 
hothouses managed by his gardeners, and infi¬ 
nitely more than by spending time and money 
in a stuffy little structure which is probably ill 
adapted to the culture of the costly plants which 
it is the foolish ambition of some to grow. Surely 
the day cannot be far distant when unheated 
houses on a larger scale will become much more 
general than at present. Why should not winter 
gardens be found in the grounds of most of our 
fine English country houses, where those ladies 
to whom hunting and skating and such like 
vigorous winter amusements are denied, or have 
ceased to give pleasure, might get exercise and 
occupation, if so minded, surrounded by foliage 
and flowers, without risk of exposure to the in¬ 
clemencies of the weather ? With Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, and fragrant Honeysuckle, winter flower¬ 
ing Clematis, and early Rhododendrons and 
Azaleas, with spring bulbs, whose name is legion, 
beginning to flower in November and giving a 
succession of the loveliest and sweetest bloom, 
with hardy Palms and Yuccas, and Myrtles, and 
Evergreen Ferns, British and foreign for foliage, 
what need can there be to employ heat in such a 
structure ? And why, in the name of all that is 
reasonable, let me ask, has attention been here¬ 
tofore withheld from the subject of cold-house 
gardening to its total and unmerited neglect ? 

K. L. D. 


winter, when I became acquainted with Gilling¬ 
ham’s heat radiator. It was a perfect success, and, 
when properly trimmed and the draught holes 
cleared and attended to, gives no trouble for 
twenty-four hours. There is no smell, the con¬ 
struction scientifically is perfect, the noxious 
fumes being destroyed by combustion or deposit, 
so that upon entering the houso it is not 
perceptible that any stove is burning except by 
the warmth. I used one of these stoves all last 
winter, and did not lose a single plant from cold 
or damp, and my plants were ready to start at 
once into robust growth very early in the spring. 
As an example, I had Arums (Callas) in bloom 
shortly after Christmas, and a succession until 
May. I believe that with one or two of these 
stoves the more ambitious amateur might have 
a stove house without fear of failure.— Another 
Amateur. 

INDOOR PLANTS. 

MASK FLOWERS 
(ALONSO AS.) 

These are small growing plants of annual and 
perennial duration, the annual kinds, however, 
not being sufficiently hardy to remain in the 
open ground unprotected. The best perennial 
species is A. Warscewiczi, which grows about 
1 foot high, and has small bright orange-red 
flowers. A, linifolia grows from 1 foot to 1 j- 


Am 

mm 

Mil 




m 


Unheated greenhouses —I was inter¬ 
ested in “ Ashmore’s ” remarks at p. 243. I had 
tried all kinds of modes for keeping out frost 
from a small greenhouse by inventions of my 
own or of other persons, but never with the 
complete satisfaction that I experienced last 


Mask Flower (Alonsoa linifolia). 


feet in height, and is bushy and compact. The 
centre branch, as well as the surrounding ones, 
are so displayed as to form a symmetrical and 
graceful specimen, the component parts of 
which are covered from almost the base to the 
summit with innumerable glowing light scarlet 
blossoms. A. acutifolia is a slender growing 
herb, 1 foot to 2 feet in height, bearing opposite 
ovate leaves, coarsely serrate, and erect spikes 
of bright orange-scarlet flowers. Similar to this 
is A. incisa, likewise a very pretty kind. 
The height of A. myrtifolia (Roezl) is from 
2 feet to 2i feet; it is of a very vigorous 
growth, and "exceedingly floriferous. The in¬ 
dividual flowers are larger far than in any other 
species of this genus, and of a more intense 
scarlet than those of A. linifolia, which we now 
figure. A. patagonica, a pretty species from 
Patagonia, is a valuable early and free-flowering 
annual. It grows about 15 inches in height, 
and forms densely branched, compact bushes, 
with at first downy-haired, but in an adult 
state glabrous, glossy leaves, of a cordate- 
lanceolate shape. The flowers, which are 
vermilion-scarlet in colour, are of fine 
form and disposed in densely set spikes. 
All are easily grown, and are suscep¬ 
tible of both pot and open ground culture. 
Employed either for large or small masses, or as 
isolated specimens, the Alonsoas produce a 
beautiful effect. The seeds should be sown in 
March and they will flower ear ly in J uly. They 



Acre. 18, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


265 


may be aUo propagated by cuttings in the spring. 
A. Warscewiczi ia more perennial in character 
than the rest, and it ia more shrubby in growth, 
but resembles the others in flowers and foliage. 
As a pot plant it will flower freely from early 
spring until late autumn without intermission if 
the roots are kept well nourished. It is rather 
dwarf and bushy in growth, and can be 
propagated at any time from February to 
September. The treatment given to the general 
stock of bedding plants during the winter season 
will suit this plant. In early spring it should be 
placed in a warm frame or greeenhouse, where it 
will soon commence to grow and flower freely. 
A light rich soil should be used in potting, and 
if large plants are desired, they may be shifted 
on every month or six weeks during the growing 
season, keeping the plants regularly stopped 
until about a month before they are required in 
flower, when they will produce fine heads of 
flower-spikes covered with scarlet blossoms. 
This kind will flower freely in 3-inch pots, and 
is then very useful for the front stages in the 
conservatory, and also for room decoration. 


10111. — Plants for a back wall. — 

The best for a greenhouse facing west are 
Camellias. The old double white is the most 
useful. They may either be grown in pots or 
planted out in a border. The shoots may either 
be trained in close to the wall or be allowed to 
grow out from it. The best climbers are the 
Lapageria rosea and alba. These succeed in 
pots or planted out, the best compost being 
turfy peat—J. D. 

10115.—Azalea cuttings.— Now is a good 

time to put in Azalea cuttings, and if it is in¬ 
tended to propagate a small quantity only in a 
private garden, I would advise propagating them 
in a greenhouse or pit, and I would do it in this 
wise. Take off the cuttings with a heel at¬ 
tached, and they may be from three to six inches 
long. Drain some 4-inch or 5-inch pots well, and 
fill them up with sandy peat. On the surface 
place a layer of white sand, then dib in the cut¬ 
tings, pressing the compost firmly round their 
base. The pots in which the cuttings are must 
be plunged in larger ones, filling up the space 
between with sand. Bell glasses must then be 
used to cover over the cuttings. The rim of the 
glasses must rest on the sand in the space 
between the pots. The cuttings will form roots 
before the winter if the soil is kept moderately 
moist and the inner surface of the glasses fre¬ 
quently wiped with a dry cloth.—J. I). 

10097.—Lily of the Valley In pots. 

—It will all depend whether the plants weresingle 
crowns or clumps when potted. Single crowns 
are almost worthless the second year, but 
" clumps," that is a mass of crowns dug up 
together, will flower fairly well for years. The 
plants, after they have done flowering, should 
be gradually inured to the open air. The pots 
must be plunged in a partially shaded place 
out-of-doors, and be carefully supplied with 
water until the leaves die off. I have known 
plants flower for thirty-years in pots without 
being shifted ; surface dressings were doubtless 
applied during that time.—J. D. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


HARDY FUCHSIAS. 

The florists’ varieties of the Fuchsia are now 
practically unlimited, inclsding, as they do, both 
light and dark kinds, single and double; but, 
showy as they are when laden with blossoms, 
they all need the protection of a greenhouse, 
while some of the older kinds are so hardy as 
to withstand most winters out-of-doors in the 
neighbourhood of London, and, indeed, much 
further north, while in the south and west of 
England, in Ireland, and in the Isles of Wight 
and Man, they form huge bushes, profusely 
laden during the whole of the summer months 
with bright and showy blossoms, small in size, 
it is true, but, owing to their bright colour and 
the profusion in whioh they are borne, very con¬ 
spicuous. 

At the present time a good deal is said in 
favour of permanent bedding, is., employing 
plants for the flower garden that will withstand 
the winter and furnish the beds, season after 
season, without the trouble of replanting each 
■uoceeding spring. For-this purpose sane of 
’he Fuchtlas ere w«lfada|t^fl iqrt |^s» F. 


gracilis, Riccartoni, and globosa. They are 
usually cut down to the ground every winter, 
but they break again strongly from the old 
stools in spring and flower all through the 
summer. In the colder parts of England, all 
that is necessary is to place a few shovelfuls of 
dry ashes over the crown of the plant, when it I 
will readily survive even the most severe winters ; 
bat in most cases no care or attention is needed,j 
as the Fuchsias just named are quite capable of 
taking care of themselves. Where they retain 
their bushy character they have few if any rivals 
amongst flowering shrubs, taking into considera¬ 
tion the lengt h of time during which they con¬ 
tinue in blossom. Escallonias, pretty and free 
as they are, do not in this respect approach 
them. Fuchsias of the hardy class succeed per¬ 
fectly well near the sea; indeed, it is along our 
southern coasts that some of the finest speci- 



I terred from giving these charming shrubs a trial, 

I even if their soil looks more like clay than peat. 
We have some acres of Rhododendrons that grow 
I with the greatest luxuriance in hard poor soil, in 
which scarcely anything else will grow, and seed¬ 
lings spring up by thousands. In fact they grow 
in this unlikely looking soil far better than in 
: beds that have been specially prepared for them. 
Our soil is naturally stiff, resting on broken soft 
stone called hassock," that provides good drain¬ 
age.—L. 

Andromeda japonlca. — This pretty 
little shrub, which promises to be so great a 
favourite, possesses one great advantage over 
many of the Ericace®, and that is cuttings of it 
root freely. A method which I have adopted 
with complete success was as follows : Having 
some small bushy plants in pots, I placed them 
in spring in an intermediate houBe with this 
result, that they were quickly 
covered with young shoots. As 
soon as these had acquired a 
slight degree of firmness I took 
’hi m cil and put them in a case 
in the propagating house kept 
at a stove temperature. In 
about a month they were finely 
rooted, the losses being not 
more than 5 per cent., a very 
satisfactory average for that 
class of plants. If out-of-doors, 
the cuttings should be taken 
when the young growth is in 
about the same condition as that just named, 
but they must not be put in such a high tem¬ 
perature as that recommended. In this case 
the best way is to place them in a cold frame, 
which should be kept close till they are callnsed, 
when a little heat will assist their rooting. To 
the first method, however, belong many advan¬ 
tages ; not only is a greater percentage of cut¬ 
tings struck, but when put in so early they make 
good little plants the first season. Clean, well- 
drained pots are essential, and I find the best 
soil to be fine peat with a liberal admixture of 
sand—say about a third.—T. 


Hardy Fuchsia (K. globosa). 

mens are met with. Where just protected from 
the full force of the sea spray they form magni¬ 
ficent objects, being especially remarkable to¬ 
wards the end of the summer, when nearly all 
other flowering shrubs are past their best. 

Well, however, as these Fuchsias succeed out- 
of-doors, they are even better under glass, either 
grown as small plants in 6-inch pots or as large 
specimens. F. coccinea, virgata, tbymifolia, and 
microphylla, may also be so treated, the minia¬ 
ture flowers of the two last being always attrac¬ 
tive. One of the best plants with which I am 
acquainted for covering the roof of a cool green¬ 
house is F. gracilis, the loose, open growth of 
which is well adapted for that purpose. It soon 
covers a considerable area, and when laden with 
its slender flowers it is very effective. Of this 
there is a variegated variety equally desirable as 
the type, with which it affords a pleasing con¬ 
trast. The closer and more compact growth of 
F. globosa renders it not so well adapted for 
this purpose, but as a bush planted out or in 
pots it is quite equal to any of the kinds I have 
named. H. F. 

Shrubs for forcing.— Those who intend 
to procure shrubs for forcing from nurseries will 
do well to secure them early in September and 
pot them without delay, so that they will have 
the chance to make fresh roots before frost sets 
in. In the case of Azalea mollis, for instance, I 
think this is an essential point. This Azalea 
may be flowered in pots each alternate year in a 
similar way to A. sinensis. Established plants 
can be introduced somewhat early into heat 
when they are well rooted, and with a greater 
amount of certainty than freshly potted plants. 
-J. H. 

Rhododendrons In heavy soil —Many 
are deterred from planting Rhododendrons be¬ 
cause their garden contains no psaty soil, whioh 
is generally looked upon as that best suited for 
Rhododendrons g but I would advise anyone 
having a naturally well-drained soil not to be da- 


THE COMING- WEEKS WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary — A vgust 20 to 
Avgust 25. 

Putting in cuttings ot Coleus tor stock. Thinning out 
Chrysanthemums to give them more light and air. Re¬ 
arranging plant houses. Potting stag's-horn and Ijuiy 
riymonth Pelargoniums for winter blooming. Tying and 
training Clerodendron Balfouri to root stove. TylDg and 
stopping Melons. lulling up old Melons, and eernbbing 
house thoroughly with Oishnrst compound ready tor 
wiuter Cucumbers. Fertilising Melons and cutting all 
ripe fruit. Cutting Mint, Tarragon. Balm, Fennel, Baall, 
Marjoram, Sage, and llorehound. Tylngthem in bunches 
and hanging them in herb room to dry for winter use. 
Sorting Potatoes, the large ones for eating, and the 
medium ones for seed; Top-dressing small Cucombcrs 
lor planting. Planting pit with early Ashtop Potatoes. 
Turning manure, and mixing with leaves ana Grass to 
pnt in bed lor winter Cucnmbers. Sowing Mustard and 
Cress ; digging up the remainder of Regent Potatoes and 
1’ateraonV Victorias, also .Magnum Bonum. Tying and 
stopping Tomatoes. Sowing a frame with liarly London, 
Krfurt, and Waleheren Cauliflower to stand the winttr 
and for planting early in spring. 

Glasshouses. 

It is necessary now to attend well to the 
general stock of winter-flowering plants. These 
are mostly quick growers, and as the roots 
fill the pots which they occupy, it is needful 
to supply the soil well with manure water, other¬ 
wise the strongest growers are sure to suffer. 
If the propagation of the various plants, such as 
Begonias, Salvias, Euphorbia jacquiniirtlora, 
Poinsettias, Eranthemums, Plumbago ro6ea, 
Thyrsacanthus rutilans, Sericographis Ohies- 
breghti, Apbelandras, Ac., was carried out at the 
time recommended and dne attention has been 
given to them since, the greater portion will be 
fast approaching the requisite size, after which in 
most cases they should have more air, less shade, 
and a somewhat lower temperature so as to dis¬ 
courage exuberant growth, and to solidify and 
mature that which is made. There are some 
things amongst winter-flowering plants, such, 
for instance, as Poinsettias, which, if started 
sufficiently early to get them big enough before 
cold nights come on, are none the worse for 
being kept a few weeks in an unheated house or 
pit, or even in the open air for the last two hr 
three weeks in August if the weather is warn. The 
finest heads of Poinsettias 1 ever had, 20 inches 
In diameter from point to, point of their bracts, 
wsrs from Hie previons yeaFs-struck plants, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 














2M> 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED [a™. 18, 1883. 

. _ 1 • •- , » \ ■ _■ ' > ■ 


headed down in the beginning of April and 
grown on in good-sized pots with single stems, 
which, when they had reached a height of from 
4 feet 6 inches to 5 feet, were turned ont the 
beginning of Angost under a south wall and kept 
there nntil the end of the month. They were then 
taken inside and subjected to heat by the middle 
of September. This treatment stops all disposi¬ 
tion to make further growth, and has the effect of 
hardening the tissues and enabling the plants to 
concentrate all their energies in the prodnotion of 
flower-heads. Forgeneral purposes medium-sized 
heads are the most useful, but where employed for 
the decoration of a large structure, large heads 
have a most telling effect; to secure them the 
plants must be both tall and proportionately 
strong, and have all their strength directed to 
the production of a single head. The majority 
of these winter-flowering subjects are com¬ 
paratively little liable to the attacks of insects, 
yet care must be taken that red spider or any 
other pest which will thrive upon them is not 
allowed to go on unchecked, or the appearance of 
the leaves, as well as the flowering capabilities, 
will be seriously affected. 

Orangkh"and~Gitrons— These arejbest kept 
wholly under glass where means can be found 
to accommodate them, but where, as is often the 
caso, they have to make way for other things in 
summer, there is no course but placing them out¬ 
side. This affords an opportunity of giving 
them a thorough cleaning from scale insects to 
which they are so much subject. If time can 
now be spared, an effort should be made to 
eradicate these pests. The plants ought to be 
well attended to with water, and if at all under¬ 
potted, and the foliage shows by assuming a 
yellow hue that the soil is poor, manure water 
should be given. Any plants of this family, 
about which there is the least doubt that the 
drainage of the pots or tubs which they ocoupy 
is at all defective, should at once have means 
taken to rectify the evil, otherwise the soil 
becomes sodden, and the roots are certain to 
perish. 

PELARGONIUMS.— Plants of the early flower¬ 
ing kinds, such as are now so extensively cultiva¬ 
ted by the Covent Garden market growers, and 
also the earliest bloomers of the show and fancy 
varieties that were cut back a short time since, 
and which have now broken, should at once be 
shaken out and repotted, removing most of the 
old soil and Bomewhat reducing the roots. They 
ought to be placed in pots a size or two smaller 
than those in which they have flowered. It is 
well to remind beginners that this section of the 
Pelargonium family requires to be harder potted 
than soft-wooded plants generally, for unless the 
soil is rammed hard with the potting lath, so as 
to make it quite solid, it holds more water than 
the roots can bear during the winter months, as 
the young feeding fibres, especially of the fancy 
kinds, are extremely sensitive of anything ap¬ 
proaching a wet, spongy condition of the soil, and 
the strongest growers amongst the large-flowered 
sorts always run overmuch to leaf if the soil is 
in a condition to hold much moisture. As soon 
as potted, place the plants in a pit or frame, 
where they can be kept close for a week or two, 
until the roots have begun to move, but they 
must also be where they will get a full share of 
light, otherwise the young leaves will be drawn, 
a state which must be carefully avoided. Head 
down such as have been kept on flowering tho 
latest as soon as the wood has got hardened up 
by exposure in the open air in the way recom¬ 
mended for the earliest batch, first letting them 
get quite dry at the roots. 

Mignonette for late spring flowering is best 
grown in small pots, say 6 inches or 7 inches in 
diameter. Half a dozen seeds should be sown 
in 4-inch or 5-inch pots, sufficiently drained and 
filled with good loam, to which has been added 
a little sand, leaf-mould, and rotten manure. 
The pots should then be placed in frames, rais¬ 
ing them near the glass, and keeping them close 
until the seed has vegetated, when the lights 
ought to be removed so as to keep the plants 
short and stocky; they should be thus exposed 
until there is danger from frost. When so treated 
they will be in the best condition for standing 
the winter. 

Potting soils. —This and the next month are 
the best for securing peat and loam for the en¬ 
suing year's potting. At first sight it might be 
supposed that soil for such purposes could, with 
equal advantage, bp 4{ig at any time, but this 

Digitized by GOOgle 


is by no means the case ; the fibrous matter fur¬ 
nished by the roots of the native plants, Grasses, 
and Ferns, that occupy the land from which the 
turf is dug are a most important element in pot¬ 
ting soils ; such as possess this fibrous matter in 
the greatest quantities are immeasurably the 
best for by far the greatest number of plants. 
When collected it should be stacked in the open 
air; on no account put it into sheds or under a 
roof of any kind except a short time before use, 
as where thus placed out of reach of rain it 
gradually gets dried up unnaturally, and when 
reduced to this condition a great deal of its fer¬ 
tility is irretrievably lost. Where peat and loam 
have been subjected to an unnatural drying pro¬ 
cess I have found that the plants afterwards 
potted in them invariably failed to thrive as they 
ought to have done.—T. B. 

Flower Garden. 

General work. —Propagation should now be 
proceeded with as opportunity offers. Pelargo¬ 
niums have made rapid growth of late, and there 
are plenty of cuttings, but they should be taken 
off carefully in order that the beds may retain 
their effectiveness after the cuttings have been 
selected. Our best bedding kinds are scarlet— 
Bonfire, John Gibbons, and Vesuvius; pink— 
Master Christine, Lady Byron, and Amaranth ; 
rosy crimson—Waltham Seedling ; light purplish 
crimson — Lord Palmerston ; white — Madame 
Vaucher, still the best. Our best fine foliaged 
kinds are Sophia Dumaresqne, Marfichal 
McMahon, May Queen, Mrs. Laing, and W. T. 
Radcliffe; others equally good might be named, 
but these are the best forgeneral bedding effect, 
and it is much better to grow a few reliable 
varieties than numerous doubtful novelties. 
Flower beds need repeated going over to remove 
bad and seeding flowers. Violas and Calceo¬ 
larias, generally the first to succumb to heat and 
drought, never fail, even on our light dry soil, 
and the only reason, next to having good supplies 
of water, why they do not is that old flowers are 
regularly picked off them. The same rule is 
applicable to all free-flowering plants. To keep 
Lobelias in full blossom we occasionally clip off 
a portion of the tops with sheep shears; the 
plants at once throw out fresh shoots, and thus 
the flowering season is extended. Of course 
such work requires to be done cautiously and 
with discernment, taking care that sufficient 
flowers are left to last till new ones make their 
appearance. Fine foliaged plants in beds of 
geometrical design now need going over once a 
week to keep the outlines true to pattern, but 
though this is advised, it must cot be supposed 
that evenness of plants or table-like flatness is 
meant, but rather that the plants should be 
allowed to grow naturally; the effect is then 
much more pleasing, and the labour needed to 
keep them in order less. In such beds we always 
use what—for want of a better term—we call 
*‘dot” plants, and these are kept in shape by 
ties, stopping, or curtailment of growth, accord¬ 
ing as the character of each demands. Our best 
plants for such a purpose are Grevillea robusta, 
Chamaepeuce diacantha and C. cassabome, Abu- 
tilons, Fuchsias, small Dracmnas, Aloes, and 
Agaves. The best basket or large vase plants of 
the season are the single Dahlias and Mar¬ 
guerites—white and yellow. Of the former 
Paragon, A lba, and Juarezi are three of the best; 
their flowers, unfortunately, do not last long, 
otherwise such plants are a great acquisition. 
Tying up these and tall sub-tropicals are also 
just now important items of labour. 

Walks and lawns. —Where walks are getting 
green or Moss-covered a good dressing of salt 
should be applied at once, as, in addition to 
rendering the surfaoe bright and clean, it is one 
of the best materials I know of for assisting the 
binding of the gravel. It is most effective when 
applied in dry weather, so as to gradually melt 
away and expend its force on the crown and 
roots of the weeds. Boll the walks several 
times, as the firmer the surface the less oppor¬ 
tunity there is for seedling weeds to get 
established. All coarse-growing weeds shonld 
now be pulled up to the root in lawns and Grass 
plots, so as to get the holes filled up with good 
Grasses before the winter comes on, 

Rose cuttings. —It will now be a good time 
to put in cuttings of Roses; select strong partly 
ripened shoots and insert them firmly in the 
soil in a shaded border of fine soil. Give thorn 
I a good soaking of water and put Evergreen 


branches over them for the first few weeks; 
under ordinary circumstances a large percentage 
of them will make good plants fit for potting or 
transplanting into beds in twelve months from 
the date of insertion. 

Carnations and Picotees. —Let the layer¬ 
ing of these be completed as speedily as possible, 
as when cold, wet weather sets in the layers do 
not form roots freely. Pipings or cuttings may 
still be put in, using very sandy soil, and placing 
the pots containing them in a very shady place. 
The hardier varieties for flower borders should 
also be layered, even if they have not yet 
finished blooming. Beds of self-coloured Car¬ 
nations are striking objects even in geometrically- 
arranged flower gardens. They will grow and 
thrive, too, in smoky towns where many other 
flowers barely exist. Yellow, purple, scarlet, 
and crimson Carnations are the best for beds. 
The scarlet variety Coroner is one of the most 
showy in masses. In layering, about 1 in. of 
soil should be removed from the surface under 
the plants, to be replaced with very sandy loam, 
into which the layers should be notched and 
pegged down. 

Pansies.— Still continue to put in cuttings, 
and prepare compost in which to pot those 
plants that are intended to flower in pots. Good 
yellow turfy loam with a fourth part of rotten 
cow manure, as much leaf-mould, and some 
sharp silver sand forms a good compost for them. 
Look the loam over carefully for wireworms or 
any other larvm which it may contain. There is 
also a white maggot or grub in the oow manure 
which injures the plants, and which should also 
be searched for. Seeds sown now on a piece of 
well worked soil will vegetate free!;, and pro¬ 
duce plants that will flower early next season. 
We need not say that the seed should be selected 
from the best flowers only—those that combine 
size, form, and substance with rich decided 
colours. 

Bulbs. —All kinds of spring-flowering bulbs 
will soon be forming roots, and if intended for 
removal, that should be done at once, as they 
are not good subjects to move when in full 
growth, the roots being brittle and easily broken. 

It is therefore better to either keep them out of 
the soil until they can be finally planted in 
positions in which they are to flower, or to put 
them in pots or shallow boxes from which they 
can bo transferred at any time without much 
damage if started in light soil or Cocoa fibre. 
Now is a good time to select bulbs for spring 
flower beds in which they will flower well during 
the early months of the year; in all cases pur¬ 
chase early, as the first comers get the pick of 
the bulbs, and the finest bulbs yield the strongest 
flower-spikes. 

Fruit. 

Tines. —Let the Vines in mid-season houses 
be well cleansed with the engine or hose as they 
are cleared of fruit. Examine internal borders, 
and give them repeated waterings where they 
have been allowed to become at all dry, as no 
greater mistake can be committed than that of 
allowing the internal roots to feel the want of 
liquid food after the crop is gathered. If trained 
on the close-spur system, shorten back the young 
wood to five or six buds, and take out the lower 
laterals to plump up the pruning eyes. Carefully 
preserve all the old foliage from injury, as future 
shows depend upon the way in which the leaves 
complete their functions, and from this time 
onward leave the house fully ventilated by night 
and by day. Cover up the external borders of 
early and late vineries with some light material 
for checking evaporation, but guard against 
using it to the exclusion of solar heat, as, owing 
to the cold, sunless character of the season, the 
ground has never attained its proper summer 
warmth, and on this account the roots should 
not be too much shaded from the influence of 
the sun and air. The principal crop of Muscats 
now colouring fast will require more light and 
as much air as can be admitted consistent witli 
the maintenance of a temperature ranging from 
70° at night to 85° by day, and when properly 
coloured, as will be the case by t he middle of 
September, the Grapes will keep for several 
months if the external roots can be protected 
from the direct influence of cold autumnal rains. 
Where incessant firing has fostered spider, and 
the old foliage has suffered and become thin, it 
is a good plan to tie down a few of the laterals 
and stop them at various lengths, so as to insure 
an even spread of foliage, which answers the 



Aug. 18, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


267 


twofold purpose of assisting the Vines and 
shading the delicate fruit from the direct rays 
of the sun. Muscats that are quite ripe will 
require some very light material drawn over the 
roof, to prevent the sun from scorching the 
berries. Haythorn’s netting answers well, as it 
excludes insects and does not interfere with the 
free passage of light and air. Proceed with the 
lifting and relaying of the roots of Vines in 
early houses before the leaves fall and lateral 
growth ceases ; keep the house close, moist, and 
shaded from bright sun; use good turfy loam, 
lime rubble, and crushed bones in a dry state ; 
give a little water to settle the soil about the 
roots and mulch when all is finished. If vigo¬ 
rous young Vines intended for next year’s 
forcing do not show a disposition to ripen up 
their wood, apply fire heat every morning, shut 
it off in the afternoon, and keep the house dry 
through the night. 

Orchard houses in which the fruit is now 
ripening may have all the ventilators left open, 
as highly flavoured Peaches and Nectarines can¬ 
not be obtained without a free circulation of 
air. Pay particular attention to the watering of 
trees in pots in all stages of growth, never allow¬ 
ing them to feel the want of this indispensable 
element, and syringe freely twice a day where- 
ever clean water can be applied without wetting 
the ripe fruit. Always make a point of gather¬ 
ing the fruit when dry and cool, before it is ripe 
enough to fall from the trees, otherwise it will 
lose its sprightly flavour, and the slightest touch 
will hasten its decay. When all the fruit has 
been gathered from the most forward trees, re¬ 
move them to one end of the house or a separate 
compartment to be potted or top-dressed and 
cleansed, and re-arrange later kinds, so as to give 
them the benefit of more light and air. Where 
trees are fairly cropped, but little pinching or 
stopping will now be needed; but any sub- 
laterals which start may be kept in check, and 
old leaves, where they overhang the fruit, may 
be turned or tied aside to let in the sun. Where 
Figs are grown in the ordinary orchard house 
the trees will now be in full bearing and capable 
of taking plenty of good food, both in the liquid 
and solid form. When large trees in medium 
sized pots are not plunged it is a good plan to 
set them in sancers and to feed the crock roots 
every day with diluted liquid or guano water; 
but where plunging can be practised the trees 
will give a maximum of fruit at a minimum of 
cost in labour, they will continue much longer 
in bearing, and the fruit will be finer and better 
in quality. 

Hardy fruit.—No kinds of Pears, and par¬ 
ticularly the early varieties, are good when 
allowed to fully ripen on the trees ; all should 
be gathered the moment they part readily from 
the branches; afterwards their highest qualities 
are developed by slow ripening in a cool, airy 
room. Late varieties that are bearing a full 
crop should be thinned out, removing, of course, 
the smallest, deformed, and worse placed fruits. 
Mulch with good manure, and should dry 
weather continue watering will be necessary, at 
all events on light soils. The watery shoots and 
other useless spray on Plum trees should now be 
cut away, and in some instances, such as that of 
the finer dessert Plums, the fruit should be 
thinned. Net up such as must be left for dessert 
purposes, for wasps are becoming a perfect 
plague. Gather all Morello Cherries, lay the 
new growths id thinly, and well wash the foliage 
once a week as a preventive against the attacks 
of red spider and aphis. Keep the soil about 
Apricot trees mulched to prevent cracking, and 
any trees that are extra vigorous may be 
partially root-pruned at once. The check will 
assist earlier maturation of both root and buds, 
and the roots will get re-established before 
winter. Perhaps, if wo except the Fig, no other 
kind of fruit tree requires such restricted root 
space, or else frequent cutting back of the 
principal roots, as the Apricot. Where, however, 
the former plan—restricted bordeis—can be 
carried out by walling in a given space, it is 
every way preferable to root-pruning, ensuring, 
as it does, at one and the samo time both quality 
and quantity of fruit. Another requisite as 
regards successful culture is firm borders; the 
harder the soil is compressed, the more resistance 
have the root* to encounter, and consequently 
lateral roots are produced is great profusion. 
ITinish tying or nailing in the shoots of Peaches, 
and only in sufficient quantity for next year’s 
fruiting. Dust with lei tkOTp^ldew 


and spider on outdoor Vines, and, if need be, 
water well. As a rule, such Vines are planted 
in dry sunny spots where drought prevails at the 
root before it is expected, and mildew is 
frequently the result. 

Vegetables. 

WE are now very busy with the first Mushroom 
beds for autumn bearing. We generally have our 
beds in Borne out-of-the-way place, as they are 
anything but ornamental, and the site is allowed 
to grow wild during the summer, except that we 
mow down the weeds to prevent them from seedin g. 
The object is simply to get a semi-tnrf to conso¬ 
lidate the manure, as at this season the manure 
gets dry. We first chop up the turf and put it to 
the manure, then add turf, watering at the same 
time with strong liquid manure, making all solid 
as the work proceeds, turning it about twice or 
thrice, when all is ready for building the beds. 
Spinach should now be sown, also Cauliflowers. 
Cabbage and Lettuce should have timely atten¬ 
tion. Take especial note that Celery should not 
be allowed to flag ; give it good soakings of 
water, putting the spont of the can close to the 
surface to prevent wetting the leaves, as this 
often leads to scalding. All late Peas should 
also be mulched and well watered; if a little 
manure water is at hand mix a pailful of it 
with thirty-six gallons of clear water ; this will 
add to the welfare of the crop. Leeks and all 
Btrong feeders must have due attention, other¬ 
wise the crops will be lost. Young seeds now juBt 
up should be hoed as soon as the plants indicate 
the rows ; this hoeing has a tendency to keep oil 
sings or other vermin. If you make the leaves 
distasteful, and by hoeing cause a certain 
amount of grit to stick to tbem, you will find 
that they will not be troublesome. Keep all 
garden walks clean and trim. 

Cucumbers.— It will not be well to allow the 
heat from linings to decline, as nights will soon 
counterbalance days, and lack of bottom-heat will 
tell upon the quantity and quality of the fruit. 
As few plants so quickly resent neglect, see that 
the thinning out, stopping, and removal of 
surplus fruits receive the proper attention at 
least three times a week. Peg down the joints, 
and pack with pieces of fresh turf wherever fresh 
roots can be induced to work on the surface, and 
while keeping the frame well filled with fresh, 
healthy foliage, guard againstover-crowdingwith 
old leaves, which often become the starting- 
point for red spider and mildew. From this time 
forward the sowing of seeds of Telegraph and 
other favourite winter kinds mnst be regulated 
by the periods at which the different compart¬ 
ments, tow occupied with Melons, will be at 
liberty, and the same rule will apply to cuttings, 
as in each case it is better to throw away pot- 
bound plants and start with fresh, young stock 
than to run the risk of fostering insect pests 
from the outset. Where the yearly supply of fruit 
is obtained from one or two efficiently heated 
houses, now is a good time to clear out one. 
Cleanse, paint, scald, and lime-wash preparatory 
to a new start, as this opportunity may not again 
occur before next spring, and everyone knows 
how fresh and vigorous young maiden plants go 
away with everything clean and sweet about 
them. Where home-grown seed is in demand, a 
given space should be devoted to its growth, and 
clean, healthy fruit should be selected and 
carefully fertilised with the male, blossoms. 
When ripe, wash out the seeds, and if progress is 
the first consideration, discard all that do not 
sink in the water. 


WOKK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

The recent dull, yet fairly warm weather, with 
occasional showers, has been eminently favour¬ 
able towards keeping most plants in good con¬ 
dition. A little more sun might have induced 
such things as Pelargoniums and Petunias to 
bloom more freely, yet on the whole all look 
fresh and gay. Dryness of the ground must, of 
course, be counteracted by periodical soakings. 
When plants are dry at the root a mere sprinkle 
does almost more harm than good; what is 
needed is a regular soaking, can after can of 
water poured round the plants, so as to reach 
every fibre, and thoroughly refresh the whole 
plant. 

In most places, Pelargoniums, &c., will now 
have made sufficient growth to allow of a few 
cuttings being taken off here and there with 
advantage. As soon as ever these can be obtained 


they should be taken and put in; this cannot be 
done too early. Cuttings from pot plants that 
have been well hardened off are always pre¬ 
ferable to those from the beds, if the former can 
be procured in sufficient quantities, but this is 
seldom the case. If soft, the cuttings should be 
dried for a few hours, or even a whole day, 
before bqjng Inserted; and if very watery, it is a 
good plan to go over the plants a week or so 
beforehand, and cut each shoot that is intended 
to be taken taken off half way through. In about 
ten days this cut will be healed, and a ready¬ 
made callus formed, which can scarcely fail to root. 

It is scarcely worth while to attempt to pro¬ 
pagate Petunias, Verbenas, or indeed anything 
but Pelargoniums and Fuchsias by cuttings in 
the town garden; in the first place they 'are 
more trouble to keep through the winter than 
they are worth, and secondly they deteriorate in 
quality so rapidly that they shortly become use¬ 
less. Young seedlings, or plants from the 
country are far preferable. Keep Cinerarias 
and Primulas growing on freely in a meijit, 
shady, and yet airy position. For winter flower¬ 
ing these should now be all in flowering pots. 

The flowers of the Helichrysum (Everlasting), 
if cut when nearly expanded and while the fan 
is on them, and hung up by the stalks in a 
sunny window, will keep for years, and font, 
with the addition of a few dried grasses, very 
useful winter bouquets. 

Continue to pay great attention to the 
feeding of Chrysanthemums with liquid 
manure. The doses should now be in¬ 
creased in Strength and frequency, so as to get 
the plants in the fullest possible state of growth 
by the time the buds are formed. As this period 
approaches, an occasional dose of a solution of 
snlphate of ammonia will be found highly 
beneficial, and this may be continued until the 
blooms are nearly showing colour. It is, how¬ 
ever, of the greatest importance that this 
valuable manorial salt be obtained pure : much 
of what is sold, in small quantities more par¬ 
ticularly, is so adulterated, or contains so small 
a proportion of ammonia, as to be almost value¬ 
less. All greenhouse plants will now be greatly 
benefited by the free admission of night air, 
which is always so much purer than in the day¬ 
time. This point is of the very greatest 
importance, and on warm nights a considerable 
amount of ventilation may be allowed even to 
stove plants by night. The Cape Plumbago is 
now in fall beauty ; when well grown this plant 
is indeed a lovely object. Keep Cyclamens cool 
and moist, and repot each carefully as it starts 
into fresh growth, placing In a close frame for 
some time subsequently. B. C. R. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS IN TOWN 
GARDENS. 

Annuals are of more value in town than they 
are in country gardens, as they can be sown in 
spring, and so complete their growth in the most 
favourable season. When sown in the autumn 
they have to stand the smoke and fog of winter 
the same as perennials. While living in the 
suburbs of London I grew at different times 
nearly all the annnals in cultivation, but having 
a small greenhouse I found it better to sow early 
and pride out into small pots, planting out the 
moment the weather was favourable than to 
trust to autumn sowing. I think Silane pendula 
is the hardiest of all annnals; only one of my 
plants died dnring the severe winters of 1879-80 
and 1880-81. Seeds seem to be hardier than 
plants; Eschscholtzias, Godetias, Clarkias, See., 
and even the more tender Phlox Drummondi and 
Marvel of Peru come up out of doors from self- 
sown seed even after tolerably hard winters, and 
these self-sown plants arc always stronger and 
healthier than those from freshly sown seeds. 

Autumn sowing of annuals is mainly ad¬ 
vantageous with those kinds which bloom best 
when they have a long period of cool weather to 
grow in before flowering—the Leptosiphon family 
for instance, and the Nemophilas, both of which 
are ruined by a dry spring, except the little 
Leptosiphons, of whioh roseus is the prettiest. 
It is dwarf and tufty in habit and profuse in 
flower, the colour being a clear rose pink. The 
Gilias, especially G. tricolor, arc also very 
desirable. Sweet Alyssum, Candytufts, Cam¬ 
panula Speculum, and Oxaiis Valdiviana are apt 
to become weeds, coming up in all sorts of places 


268 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[A to. 18, 1883. 


where one does not want them. Saponaria 
c&labrica is a beautiful annual in a poor dry soil, 
but in a rich soil it is simply a pink Chickweed, 
and should not be grown except in specially 
prepared situations. Biennials must be sown in 
the autumn; many of these do well in the 
suburbs of London. Hweet Williams, which have 
been greatly improved of late years,should be sown 
nowand pricked out into their blooming places as 
soon as they are big enough to handle. Fox¬ 
gloves, Antirrhinums, ana Canterbury Bells 
require the same treatment. The old Cam¬ 
panula pyramidalis, or Steeple Bellflower, should 
be sown in spring to bloom its best the following 
summer. Ranunculus-flowered Poppies are 
gorgeous things when in flower; these should 
be sown now where they are to remain. Pansies 
make a fine show in early spring if sown now; 
they bloom freely and for a long period as seed 
lings. In a cool season I have had them bloom 
from February to November by merely top¬ 
dressing between the plants with a little fresh, 
light rich soil, as each crop of blooming stems 
became exhausted cutting all these off at the 
same time. Pansies treated as annuals and 
biennials are amongst the most useful and trust¬ 
worthy plants an amateur can grow. Perpetual 
Carnations sown early in spring and pricked out 
in the end of August are splendid things treated 
strictly as biennials; of course layers or pipings 
can be taken of those that it is wished to preserve, 
but the seedlings are the strongst and best border 
plants. Some of these keep continually sending 
up blooming shoots, and make scarcely any shoots 
fit for propagation; these are not of much use 
after their first year of blooming. I have had from 
100 to 150 flowers open on these at one time. 
German Wallflowers are good biennials for spring 
flowering; they greatly resemble Stocks, but the 
colours vary from light yellow, through orange 
and Wallflower colours to brown-violet, making 
a capital contrast with biennial Stocks. 

Sowing and soil.—I find the safest way for 
an amateur who has other things to attend to 
besides gardening is to sow till seeds in pots or 
boxes ; in pots where a small quantity is required, 
and in boxes for a larger sowing. The boxes in 
which Figs are imported are the best; they are 
light, strongly made, and of a wood which seems 
almost weather proof. I have several times lost 
a good crop of seedlings through English-made 
boxes falling to pieces in my hands. The soil for 
seeds shonld be light, rich, and sweet, mixed 
some time before using, and frequently turned 
over so as to expose all well to the air; too much 
attention cannot be paid to this. I have had a 
good instance of the importance of it this season 
in sowing seeds in suitable soil, and in stagnant 
material that would breed mould and Moss. The 
seeds in the good soil all germinated and made 
strong plants, while those in the bad soil, where 
they did germinate, only sent out the radix a little 
way and then died ; the pots were standing 
side by side, the seeds were sown from the 
same packets, and received exactly the same 
treatment. Large seeds may be covered with 
light soil, but small seeds and flat, thin seeds 
like those of the Carnation, Sweet William, and 
Stock are best sown on the soil and covered 
with sheets of glass if in boxes, or with small 
bell-glasses if in pots; the sheets of glass must 
fit the boxes fairly, so a9 to prevent evaporation, 
This proves handier than a cold frame, as each pot 
or box can have individual treatment. I cannot 
see how a busy man could raise such things as 
Auricula, Folyantbus, and Gentian from seed in 
any other way. For such things as Bartonia 
aurea and Poppies, which do not transplant well, 
and for all sowing out-of-doors on the beds, fine 
soil should be sifted over the places where the 
seeds are to be sown; here bell-glasses can be 
used to cover the seeds; inverted flower-pots are 
useful for the same purpose, and also to protect 
seedlings in severe weather. All improved or 
florists’ flowers, and those which present a variety 
of colours or markings, should be sown very thinly, 
so that those which germinate first can be re¬ 
moved without injuring the later ones. If any 
of a lot of seedlings of these have to be wasted, 
those should always be the strong ones which 
spring np first. The finest flowers will almost 
always be the last to germinate; even in other 
plants it is good polioy to save a few of the late 
seedlings on the chance of getting something 
good. I have tried several methods of raising. 
seedlings, but find, generally speaking, the 
above to be the most euqoStxfiiL One greet 
•dniulsg* ef iowlkg M 1 '• srrf u.« ot the 1 


soil is that the process of germination 
be watched, the rootlet can be seen pro 
truding and then descending, and when 
it has reached something nourishing the seed 
leaves burst their envelope. The critical period 
with seeds would seem to be from the protrusion 
of the radicle until the formation of the second 
pair of leaves. Another advantage of sowing 
on the surface is that the attacks of insects can 
be detected at once. 

Insects. — Seedsmen are often blamed by 
amateurs for sending bad seed when insects are 
the cause of failure. A lurking woodlouse will 
devour the seed leaves of a pot of seedlings as 
they come up, and only the most minute inspec¬ 
tion will detect that the seeds have ever germi¬ 
nated. I remember giving some pots of seed up 
as hopeless, and only detected some time after 
four or five empty clurysalida of the daddy-long- 
legs protruding from the surface of each pot; 
the leather jackets had devoured my seedlings 
as fast as they appeared. The best manure for 
seeds is a tablespoonful or so of genuine Peru 
vian guano (not ammonia fixed) to a pailful of 
water once a week. D. A. S 


THE WHITE MUSK MALLOW 
(MALVA MOSCHATA ALBA.) 

This is one of the prettiest plants in flower 
during July. It is a pure white variety of one 
of our British plants found growing abundantly 



Musk Mallow, showing habit of growth. 

some localities by the roadsides in dry, 
gravelly soil. The white variety is more attrac¬ 
tive in every respect than the purple kinds, and 
forms a pyramidal bush of branching stems 
about 2 feet high, clothed with deep green 
foliage, and it bears abundance of pure white, 
silk-like flowers from 1 inch to 1( inch in 
diameter. It is a hardy perennial, and will 
grow in almost any soil or situation, but a hot, 
dry place suits it best. The whole plant is 
slightly Musk-scented, a circumstance from 
which it derives its specific name. 


PLANTS FOR SMALL FRONT GARDEN. 

10105.—Querists who wish for advice as to 
planting gardens, should give particulars as to 
soil and climate. A planting that wi 11 suit chalk 
or sand will not suit clay, neither will a planting 
which will suit sandy peat suit seaside sand. 
For climbers, Kerria japonica. Ivy, Common Jas¬ 
mine, Yellow Jasmine, and the winter or naked 
flowering Jasmine, will answer. The common 
Honeysuckle and the Ayrshire Roses will do to 
ramble up trees. If the front of the garden is 
far enough from the house to get the sun in 
summer afternoons, some Roses may be planted 
there. If the situation is in a town, try the 
common ever-flowering China to begin with; if it 
does well, a few Perpetuals may be ventured. 
Prince Camille de Rohan and Jean Soupert are 
two dark Roses that suit partial shade. Both 
should be grown on Brier stocks. 

In a small front garden partially shaded, a 
half negligent or picturesque style should be 
adopted. Turf does not answer in a shady 
plaoe, and is always best left out of small plots. 
The space should be divided between gravel 
walks and flower beds. Any scarlet flowers that 
will grow will then be most telling and beauti¬ 
ful against the shadows beneath the tnes, In¬ 
stead ot being a glaring ayasora, as they always 
are eats against grass grata turf. Tropwolum 


speciosum will probably answer as a climber; it 
closely resembles the well-known Canary 
Creeper, but has fiery scarlet flowers. If the 
soil is not damp and clayey, Anemones will 
answer. The ground should first be well 
dreBsed with leaf-mould, peat, or very old 
manure from a spent hotbed; if planted in 
newly broken up, lumpy soil, they dwindle away 
quickly and disappear. 

An edging of stones sunk almost entirely in 
the ground and planted with London pride 
always looks well. In shady nooks plant 
Solomon's Seal and Pyrethrum serotinum. In 
the sunnier parts. Primroses, Polyanthuses, 
Auriculas and Pansies. These will be the best 
dwarf plants. Of taller growth, Pyrethrum 
roseum, single and double kinds; Day Lilies, 
German Iris,Daffodils, Mimulus, Spineapalmata, 
Spiraea Aruncus, and Kpinca Ulmaria fl.-pL, 
Thalictrum anemonoides, and Anemone japonica 
alba will be the most useful. For early spring 
Tulips and Scilla sibirica are good, and the 
varieties of the common wood Hyacinth. Scilla 
nutans are useful for shady places. Nearest 
the house plant a few Ferns, but not on a pile 
of dry stones miscalled a rockery. If the soil is 
dry enrich it with peat and leaf-mould, and if 
damp, make a raised bed of these enclosed 
by rough boulders. Plant the little Wood 
Anemone in quantity among the Ferns.—J. D. 


Lily of the Valley well grown.—Our 

readers would do well to see that this is grown 
well in their gardens, not merely thrown in some 
neglected corner, thick and matted. Nothing 
repays better for a good soil and choice bordei, 
where the beautiful flowers may come to us in 
strength every year. Our Lily of the Valley has 
been so badly grown in gardens, that it has been 
the fashion to import roots every year for forcing. 
There is no reason why we should not each grow 
it where the soil is suitable for this purpose, too, 
by isolating the plants, so that they may make 
plump buds; but merely cutting a piece out of 
an old thick tuft in a neglected bonier will not 
do to force. For two reasons, then—for its 
beauty out-of-doors in various positions, and for 
forcing indoors, either rapidly early in the year 
or slowly later on—this favourite flower is worth 
growing well. It would be well to have it on 
warm borders or aspects to come in early, and in 
north borders to come in late; and also, where 
people can do it well, it would be charming to 
naturalise it in shady or northern shrubberies or 
woods, so that it may come in later than the 
garden specimens. We grow the plant fit for 
forcing small, but good plants must be set apart, 
so that they may form the strong flowering 
crowns which those who force this Lily require. 
—S. 

The Pansy is certainly one of the prettiest 
and easiest grown of all flowers for the cottager's 
garden. It requires no delicate nursing ; the 
plants do just as well if they never receive the 
shelter of a glass covering. The fancy varieties 
are undoubtedly the best. Now is the time to sow 
seeds or propagate named sorts from cuttings. 
The seeds must be sown on a piece of fine soil 
in the open ground thinly; as soon as they are 
large enough to handle they may be pricked out 
about 3 inches apart. In four or six weeks tho 
plants will be ready to plant out where they are 
to flower. They like deep, light, rich soil. Cut¬ 
tings or side growths taken off with a portion of 
root attached may be put in in a shady place 
out-of-doors, or under hand glasses if such are 
easily obtained. They require shelter from wind 
and sun until roots are formed; when well- 
rooted, plant them out where thev are to bloom, 

J. D. 

Violas decaying. —Some queries have 
been put lately with reference to Violas and 
Pansies decaying, and satisfactory explanations 
have been given of some of the causes of the 
evil. There is one, however, which I have just 
discovered, that I think has not been noticed. 
Six weeks ago a bed was filled with Phlox Drum- 
mondi, but only a few plants have grown well. 
Most of them have remained very much as they 
were when put in, and a few have died off. On 
examining the bed, I found that a few inches 
under the surface of the soil there were a great 
number of empty spaoes ; in fact, a great part 
of the bed was quite hollow. The reason of this 
suggested itself ot ones. The msr.ure dag into 
th« bod in tpiles was only Lt’.i decay m, and 
ooniMiMBtly ceuTd not hi t.Vitarghiy 



Aug. 18, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


269 


with the soil, and it had merely been thrown 
into the trenches and the soil turned over on 
the top of it. When the manure did decay, of 
course empty spaces were left, and the soil being 
somewhat tenacious, had not fallen in and filled 
them up. When the roots of the plants reached 
these empty spaces they could do no more in 
the way of growth, and besides, the upper soil 
was so dry owing to this novel and complete 
system of drainage, that even a whole day’s rain 
bad very little effect upon it. I found a lot of 
Violas and Pansies in the same predicament as 
the Phlox Drummondi. I have pushed the 
trowel down between the plants as far as it will 
go, so as to get the soil to fall in and fill up the 
holes, and 1 have also drenched the beds with 
water.—P. R. 

Flame Nasturtium (Tropaeolnm specio- 
sum).—When on a recent visit to Bettws-y-coed, 
on my way to the Fairy Glen, I was struck with 
the beauty of a scarlet creeper covering the front 
of a pretty picturesque cottage. It enchanted 
everyone with its glorious mass of colour and 
elegance of growth. A little further on the road, 
at a house entering the wood, I again saw it, and 
on asking the owner the name, he said it was 
Tropaeolum speciosum, and can be obtained at 
most large nurseries. 

White Ivy-leaved Cyclamen— The 

white-flowered variety of C. hederasfolium is one 
of the daintiest of hardy flowers. It will com¬ 
pare favourably with the purest white forms of 
the Persian Cyclamen, though the blossoms are 
but half the size of those of the last named kind. 
Such a charming little plant when seen with 
dense tufts of snowy blooms rising some 3 inches 
or 4 inches above the soil is one of the prettiest 
sights in the garden in autumn, and no plant 
would be a more fitting occupant of the snuggeBt 
nook at the base of a rockery in partial shade 
than this Cyclamen. 

Calceolaria orenatiflora. — This is a 
plant that ought to be brought into greater 
prominence than it is, as it is one of if not the 
best of all the shrubby kinds of Calceolaria. Its 
bright yellow flowers are borne in large clusters, 
and are therefore very showy. The blooms indi¬ 
vidually are about the size of those of C. amplexi- 
caulis, bnt the pouch is longer, its margin is 
erimpled or crenate, hence the specific name. 
Like other shrubby Calceolarias, it is not hardy, 
bnt thrives in perfection in open borders in 
summer. 

lotos.— Planting Tulips. —The best time to plan 
Tulips Is in October. They like deep, rich eoil, but crude 
manure must not come in contact with the bulbs. The 
■ 'jibs should be planted about 2 Inches below the sur¬ 
face, and some sand ought to be placed under and over 
each bulb.—J. D. I. 

10112.—Transplanting Lily of the Valley.— 

This plant does not make fresh roots until after the 
lowera open. They may be dug up and planted any 
dine previous to this ; but the best time to plant is be¬ 
fore they start into growth at all. Perhaps November is 
the best month.—J. D, I. 


ROSES. 

ROSE CULTURE IN POTS. 
Properly speaking, there is a longseason when 
forced Hoses may be had in flower, but there is 
a great difference in the treatment of those 
forced into flower in February and March and 
those that flower in May. With me it is a 
question whether the latter can properly be 
called forced Roses, as very little artificial heat 
suffices to bring them into bloom. It requires 
ten times more skill to have good forced Roses 
in February than in April or May. However, 
that has bnt little to do with my present object, 
which is to direct attention to the details 
necessary in the preparation of the plants for 
forcing next spring, and I shall at once assume 
that there is already at hand a sufficient number 
of plants established in pots for the purpose. 
The proper time at which to repot the plants is 
luring August, and the earlier in the month the 
better, because, to be able to force them in a 
satisfactory manner early in the season, the 
pou must be pretty well filled with roots that 
hzve got a good hold of the soil, and roots can- 
sot get well hold of the soil and fill the pots 
unless the plants are repotted early enough in 
the summer to have a few weeks’ growing 
weather before them, to enable them to start 
Into aotiro root aotlon again and lay hold of 
the new eoil. The planter whether Tv, coir tod 
or Hybrid Perpetuate, mult be trek ei 1 tbp iMme. 
Many of those with which I hare to deal hart 


been forced early for nearly twenty years. Some 
of the largest are in 10-inch and others in 
14-inch pots, and we do not intend to give them 
more room. When we begin with young 
plants in 6-inch pots, we increase the size of 
the pots every year until they are as large as we 
want them. I find very little difference whether 
the plants are on their own roots or not. The 
only objection to the Manetti as a stock is its 
constantly throwing up suckers, which must be 
cut off as soon as they are seen. 

The soil for pot Roses should be three parts 
good turfy ioam and one part thoroughly rotten 
animal manure, with a fair sprinkle of sand. 
The loam should not be sifted, but cut up and 


broken to pieces with a spade. The manure 
should be carefully examined for worms, 
which, when found, should be picked out. The 
compost should not be used when wet; if there 
is any doubt about the matter, it should be 
prepared and laid ont on the floor of an open 
shed to dry for a few days. As the roots 
like a firm medium, the soil requires to be 
pressed pretty firmly, and if it is wet, it would 
run together in a compact mass, into which the 
roots oould not enter; better by far use soil a 
little dry than wet. In repotting, take the plants 
out of the pots, remove all the drainage, and then 
shake oil about three parti of the old toll, but! 
taka care not to Injure the roots. In the osse of i 
old plants, thsre may be a large root more than la ! 


wanted, but, unless very plentiful, it is better not 
to prone the roots. I never touch those of a young 
plant. When practicable, it is best to give them 
clean pots and clean crocks, but if the old pots 
must be used again, they should be made as clean 
as a hard wisp of old matting and a good robbing 
will make them, both inside and out. It is im¬ 
portant that the drainage should be liberal and 
carefully prepared, according to the size of the 
pot; for a 12-inch pot 2 inches of crocks, and for 
a 7-inch pot 1 inchin depth is not too much. The 
hole in the bottom should be first well covered 
with a large piece of crock, hollow side 
downwards ; then a layer of larger pieces, and 
on the top a couple of handfuls broken rathe 


small, and on these put a few pieces of rough, 
turfy loam. 

In potting, work in amongst the roots the 
finer particles of the compost, so that every root 
may have a bed of soil on which to rest. As the 
earth is put in, ram it moderately firm with a 
wooden rammer up to the top of the pot, or rather 
I should say, as high as the soil comes, for it is 
beet not to pot the plants too high; in a 14-inch 
pot there should be a space of 2£ inches left to 
hold water, and smaller sizes in proportion. Be 
oareful not to injure the branches ; flower-beds 
may be removed, but no pruning should be done 
at thlu time | iverj gittn ieil iboald be pm- 
•erred | they wlU be wanted to M*Ut in inducing 
a speedy root forasetios, Afees boitig itpcttid, if 



Flower branch of tho White Musk Mallow (natura size 



270 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Aug. 18, 1883. 


I had a suitable sized house which I could devote 
to forced Boses for only three or four weeks 
after being repotted, I should prefer that to any¬ 
thing else, as then I could not only shade them 
from bright sunshine, but I could keep them 
close, and the air abont them moist. Under such 
conditions they would recover from their change 
of soil much sooner than when exposed to the 
drying winds. As, however, I have not this con¬ 
venience, I have to find a position for them close 
to the north side of a high wall where they are 
shaded all day, and when drying winds occur. I 
have them syringed two or three times during 
the day with the garden engine. After they have 
been repotted a month, they begin to make new 
growth; this is the signal that they have began 
to make new roots. I then have them brought 
out into the open, where the sun can reach them 
all day. During this time the watering has to be 
done carefully; it will not do to let the soil get 
dust dry, or keep it very wet. That about the 
roots must just be kept moist, l’ot Hoses required 
to flower in February should bo pruned about the 
middle of November, and they should remain 
exposed in the open air until that time; after 
being pruned, they should be taken to some cool 
structure, where they are just kept out of the 
reach of severe frost. J. C. C. 


White Hoses.—In addition to those men¬ 
tioned by “ A.,” p. 237, the following are good 
Hybrid Perpetuals: Perfection de Blanches, pure 
white ; Mrs. Bellenden Ker, white, with delicate, 
pale peach centre, a beautiful Bose on its own 
roots; White Baroness, French white; Bourbon 
Baronne de Maynard, almost a pure white, a very 
good garden Rose. Of summer Roses, Madame 
Plantier, pure white, a very profuse bloomer, and 
very sweet; the old white Madame Legras and 
Madame Hardy, beautiful open blooms of the 
purest white; the White Provence ; and best of 
all, though scentless, the White China Bose 
Ducher, pure white, and as good in shape as any 
of the Perpetuals or Teas. This is the best white 
Rose for the open ground.—J. D. 

1007!).—Mildew on Roses.—In answer to 
“ W. H. E.,” I beg to give the following sug¬ 
gestions to prevent mildew. Keep the plant 
subject to it occasionally syringed with a decoc¬ 
tion of Elder leaves, which will prevent the 
fungus growing on them. To remove mildew 
where already established, dissolve one ounce of 
nitre in one gallon of water, and water the 
plants overhead with it occasionally. Another 
way is to wash the diseased parts with a decoc¬ 
tion of Elder leaves; but the most effectual 
remedy is flowers of sulphur dusted over the foli¬ 
age.— T. N. Butler, Tuxford. 

10104.—Fungus on Rose loaves.—If 
mildew is the fungus alluded to, the best thing 
is to dissolve 2 ounces of soft soap in a gallon of 
rain water; stir a single handful of flowers of 
sulphur up in it, and with the solution syringe 
the leaves. If it is the Orange fungus, cut the 
affected parts off before syringing the leaves 
with a similar mixture.—J. D. 

10070.—Rose unhealthy.—Louts van Houtte is a 
weak grower, and not a free-flowering Rose. It should be 
bud 1 I on the Brier ; feed It well with liquid manure, 
and bud it on a strong, healthy stock next season.—J. D. 


FRUIT. 

VINE LATERALS AND TENDRILS. 
Look ini ; over my out-of-door Drape Vines, 
and observing their over vigorous growth, 
although no manure has been given to them, the 
question arose in my mind how best to check 
this growth without premature stopping; and 
this brought to my recollection an article in 
Gardening Illustrated, April 3, 1380, of 
which I had taken a note, and in which the 
writer, “ J. G. K.,” describes his practice in Grape 
growing under glass, which is on the long-rod 
system (practised also by me), and in which he 
never stops the laterals on the rods grown for 
succession shoots. The retention of these, and 
also of the tendrils, would, I think, help much 
in diverting the superabundant flow of sap in 
the main rod, and thus tend to make the wood 
short-jointed and fruitful. 

Another point to bo noted in “ J. G. K.'s” 
system is, that he gives great room to his Vines, 
having, in one of his vineries of 30 feet in length 
with 16 feet rafters, only two tines, a Black 
Hamburgh and LFm^r th d, have every 


season six fruiting shoots each, trained np to 
the top of the rafters, at a distance apart of 
2 j feet, and between these the six succession 
shoots (on which the laterals are not to be 
touched) are trained. 

On examining a growing Vine shoot, it will 
be found that, in general, each bud is flanked on 
one side by a leaf, on the other by a lateral 
shoot, while at the back, or the side opposite to 
the bud, protrudes a tendril. Now each of these 
must have some office assigned to it for the 
benefit of the bud which the three thus surround, 
and it seems to be wrong to remove, as most of 
the gardening directions recommend, any one of 
them. The article to which I have referred 
gives, apparently, very good reasons why the 
laterals should be retained, and the only objec¬ 
tion to tendrils that I know is to their catching, 
clinging to, and thereby, it is supposed, crippling 
the growing shoots; but they are evidently pro¬ 
vided by nature for the support of these shoots, 
and no doubt also for their benefit otherwise, 
although in a way perhaps, at first sight, not 
very perceptible. Everyone is agreed as to 
the importance of preserving the principal leaves 
uninjured, and if this be so necessary, why not 
the other two accompanying growths as well ? 

In open air culture, however, the laterals 
should be regularly laid iu, and to do this at an 
angle of about 30° with the shoot from which 
they spring, would require a clear Bpace of 
10 inches on each side of that shoot. The fruit- 
beariDg rods would require the same space for 
their fruiting laterals, so that, between these 
rods, as measured from each other, there should 
not bo less than 40 inches, and the same distance 
maintained between the succession shoots 
growing between them—a rather unusually large 
space, but one which I have no doubt would 
prove a great advantage so far as the out-of- 
door culture of the Grape Vine is concerned. 

J. M. 


Removing Gooseberry trees.— This 
should be done in the end of September or early 
in October; dig round them, gradually loosening 
the roots with a steel fork so as to save all the 
fibre or small roots; dig out large holes on well 
trenched soil and spread the roots out evenly, 
work the finest soil over them, then level and 
tread it firmly ; water thoroughly and mulch the 
surface with half-rotten manure; do not prune 
until the buds show signs of growth in spring, 
and a good crop of fruit next year will probably 
be the result.—G. 

Crittenden Damson. —This is grown on 
its own roots generally. In the neighbourhood 
of Maidstone, where it originated, and where it 
bears the name of the Farleigh Prolific or Cluster 
Damson, growers realise good sums by letting 
the suckers or spawns, as they are locally called, 
grow up into little trees and then selling them. 
I may add that although Damsons are not a 
regular crop this year, I have seen many trees 
of this kind with the branches propped up in 
order to support the weight of the crop on them. 
—J. 

10126.— Mildew on Vines.— Let “Peter’’ 
try drainage, if practicable. I have found it to 
be an effectual cure for mildew on two Black 
Hamburghs planted outside of, but led into, a 
cool greenhouse of mine. It came into my pos¬ 
session about ten years ago, and the first year’s 
crop was totally destroyed by mildew, the same 
having also been the fate (as I have been re¬ 
cently told by the former gardener) of every 
crop for several years previously. Observing 
that the surface round the greenhouse was, after 
rain, unusually sodden and wet as compared 
with other parts of the garden, I found, on 
examination, that the cause was the choked 
state of the drain from the waste pipe of the 
rain-water cistern. Having cleared this, and 
also dug trenches about two feet deep round the 
stocks of the Vines, distant from them about 
4 feet or 5 feet, and half filled the trendies with 
very rough rubble for drainage—completing 
from the soil cast out—theso measures have 
thoroughly prevented the return of mildew, and 
the Vines have been quite healthy and fruitful 
ever since—a period of eight or nine years.— 
J. M. 

Alpine Strawberries.— Those who lulvorato the 
culture of these should say whence they can be obtained. 
I havo tried several nurseries in vain.—«. Jones. 


Vol. I. " Gardening ” Is ont of print, and we are 
therefore unable to further supply either separate copies 
or bound volumes. 


VEGETABLES. 


Parsley for winter.— One way of securing 
a stock for use in bad weather is to lift some f 
strong roots now; cat off all the large leaves 
and plant the roots in a warm aspect where they 
can be sheltered with a frame when bad weather 
sets in, or the roots may be planted in pots, 
tnbs, or in any way where shelter can be afforded. 
Parsley' must have light and air in order to - 
obtain it good in colour and curly, and where .1 
these conditions can be had it matters nothing 
where the roots are planted. I once planted a 
quantity in wire baskets, lined with Moss, and 
hung them np near the glass in a cool vinery, 
and very pretty useful baskets they made all 
that winter, and it often happens that just as 
the days are expanding rapidly in spring there 
is less growth and less movement among vege¬ 
tation than during the short days in winter. 
Parsley somehow, late though it is, will make 
some useful growth, which, if sheltered and left 
unpicked till spring, will be found valuable. 
There is a good deal of scope for judgment and 
care in making the most of the Parsley., One ., 
man will rush at it, tear it off in handfuls with¬ 
out any regard for the next comer, or as regards 
to wants of the future; but the careful man 
constantly picks the large, full grown leaves, 
and so keeps a good face on the bed. There is 
a great deal in the hands of the man who serves 
the kitchen, and a careful, thoughtful man will, 
by making the most of things, keep np a better 
supply than another with the same or even less 
means.—H. 

Trebons Onion. —This fine winter Onion 
has attained a great size with me this season, and 
the bulbs are hard and solid and of good form. 
When growing it greatly resembles a fine stock of 
the white Spanish ; the skin is light brown, and 
the upper sides of the bulbs are just the Spanish 
outline. When pulled, however, it is found that 
the base of the bulb penetrates as deeply mto the 
soil as it grows out of it; indeed the form is quite e 

globular rather than flat. Its solidity is attested ;; 

by the fact that twelve bulbs weighed just « 
14 pounds, whilst all the others are relatively 
heavy for the size. Ordinarily, winter Onions do 
not keep long, but the Trebons seems to have had 
some of the spring-sown kinds for one Of its t 
parents. It seems to be yet scarce, but so fine > 
a kind must presently become in great request. ^ 
— D. 

Mildew on Peas. — The mould on Peas is 
almost entirely the product of drought at the 
roots, though cold nights will help to generate 
it. The application of dry sulphur is not likely to 
prove very efficacious, and it is rarely so in any 
case. It is the fumes .emitted from it in vineries 
which prove so efficacious in chocking Vine 
mildew. Mould on Peas is very common late 
in the year, and the best check is found in 
liberal culture in the shape of trenches, manure, 
and ample moisture. With these aids the plants 
grow fast, and outpace the objectionable para¬ 
site.—D. i 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

10093.— Renovating an old garden.— 
Having had to renovate two old exhausted 
gardens, my experience may be useful to “T. B. R.” 

In both the gardens alluded to, and indeed in all 
old neglected gardens, the Box edgings are 
usually in an overgrown state, and require re¬ 
planting ; but that must be let alone for the 
present. The first thing to be attended to at , 
this season of the year is to prepare a portion of , 
the ground for Strawberries. The ground being , 
old and worn out, has probably never been 
trenched; in that case it is not safe to turn up 
the subsoil to a greater depth than 1 foot; to 
do this, take out a trench that depth, and 2 feet 
wide. When the trench has been taken out fork 
up the bottom of it 6 inches more, then put in 
a good dressing of farmyard manure; throw out 
another trench on to the manure, and so proceed 
till the work is finished. Straw berries planted 
at once will give a good crop next year. A piece 
of ground Bhould also be dug up on which to sow 
Cauliflowers, Early London and Walcheren. 
Sow also a hardy Cabbage and IUcks’s Hardy 
White Cos Lettuce. A sowing of Turnips should 
also bo made now. Early Cabbage seeds ought 
also to be sewn Spinach ought also to be 
sown to stand the winter. As soon as 



Aug. 08, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


271 


this is done, see to trenching, or rather double 
digging all the ground, as advised for the Straw¬ 
berry crop. The ground so prepared will be 
ready for all the vegetable crops as the time 
comes to sow or plant, and it will answer well 
to plant all fruit trees in November. The 
Currant bushes can be pruned any time after 
that month comes in. The Box edgings should 
be planted in the spring, and the walks should 
be gravelled in March after all the wheeling over 
them is finished.—J. D. 

10090.— W Ire worms. —I am surprised at 
“ Reldnac ” being troubled with wire worm to 
such an extent as he describes after a good 
coating of gas lime, which usually is a very 
effectual check, if not a remedy, for wireworm. 
Having had a good deal of experience with this 
pest, I would recommend “ Reldnac ” to top- 
dress and lightly fork in the following mixture, 
and, as he does not state the size of his garden, 
Not having at hand any means of reference, I 
can only give approximately the quantities and 
cost per acre: Broken rape cake, 4 hundred¬ 
weights, costing about 20s. per acre; soot, three 
bags, costing about 9s. per acre; agricultural 
salt, 2 hundredweights, costing about 2s. 6d. per 
acre; total, 31s. 6d. per acre. These proportions 
are what I have myself used, but of course 
should vary according to the nature of the soil. 
The salt and soot are naturally disagreeable to 
the wireworm ; but the theory of the rape cake, 
which can be procured of any corndealer, and 
should be broken to about the size of a small 
marble, is that the wireworms are so fond of it 
that they eat it till they burst. Be this as it 
may, it is a well-known fact that it is au excel¬ 
lent cure for them as well as being a valuable 
manure. The expense is comparatively little, 
even if it has to be occasionally repeated, as is 
generally the case with ground which has once 
become thoroughly infested with this, one of the 
most destructive of the gardener’s numerous 
enemies.—F ulwbll. 

10102.— Cuttings of Sweet Williams 

—Cuttings taken now and dibbled into light 
soil in a shady place will be rooted and ready 
to plant out in October. Pull the shoots off and 
cut them through just clear of and under a 
strong plump* joint, which is neither very hard 
nor soft; split them up rather more than half 
way to the next joint, remove all the leaves but 
three of four pairs at the top, and insert them in 
the soil up to the lowest pair of leaves left. 

( Press the soil firmly round the neck of the cut¬ 
tings, and give a sprinkle of water occasionally 
to prevent the leaves flagging. If the old stools 
are left to grow as they like, the flowers 
gradually deteriorate and the plants get weaker. 
Indian Pinks and Dianthus Heddewiggi can be 
propagated in the same way.—J. D. 

-If cuttings of Sweet Williams are put in 

now they will form roots if the shoots are 
wrenched off from the hardened base, or with 
what is called a heel, and perhaps a portion of 
roots attached. They ought to be planted under 
a handglass, but this is not so satisfactory a 
method as saving seeds; they should be sown in 
April or May, and will make strong flowering 
plants for next year. A few of the growths may 
be removed from the oid plants; the flower 
stems should also be cut off after the seeds have 
been saved. A dressing of rich soil should be 
applied, and the plants will flower well next 
jear.—J. I). I. 

10126.—Mildew on vineB.—I believe that 
a free current of air, and dusting the infected 
parts with flowers of sulphur, will have the de¬ 
sired effect of removing the mildew, but no sul¬ 
phur must be burned in the house; the fumes, as 
most gardeners know, are absolutely fatal to all 
plant life, as a friend Of mine discovered, who 
three years ago possessed one of the finest vines, 
which was nearly killed by sulphurous fumes. It 
will be years before the vine will bear fruit again 
ctfing to having been exposed to the fumes of 
half-a-pound of lighted sulphur. —Shepherd's 
Rush. 


10050.— Hardy plants In London.— 

many perennial plants will thrive in Palace 
Qreen, Kensington; there are too many houses 
ktoreen it and the country. Roses would not 
da. Michaelmas Daisies, German Iris, and 
Oaoge Lilies would be the best investment, 
London Pride for edging purposes. Creep¬ 
ing Jenny and Stonecrop are useful for 
ing. For the rest, trust to sihau^ls, bi 



and Chrysanthemums. Get 14 Town Gardening,” 
by B; C. Ravenscroft, which gives all informa¬ 
tion required.—J. D. 

10110.—Seed ling Sumachs.—The youDg plants are 
far more likely to be suckers from the root than seed¬ 
lings. They can be transplanted any time after the 
leaves have fallen.—J. D. 


Ivy on Oak.—I havo a fine Oak tree in my garden, 
and I have planted some Ivy ronndit which nearly covens 
the trunk. I am told the Ivy will eventually kill tho 
Oak. Is that the fact? I should not like to sacrifice 
the Oak for the sake of the Ivy, as Oak trees in our neigh¬ 
bourhood are very scarce.— Arthur Deck. [ You need 
not be anx>ous about the Ivy killing the Oak , at least Jar 
many years to come , if the Oak is strong and healthy. It 
is when trees are very old or weakly that a strong growth 
of Ivy jrrodxues an injurious effect upon them. 

Christmas Roses.-- Can the Christmas Ro3es which 
are constantly advertised lor sale be grown iu the north¬ 
east of Lancashire 1— R. W. [ Yes], 

Passion Flower for greenhouse.—What is the 
name of the best Passion Flower for a cool greenhouse, 
naming colour ?—[P. racemosa-cceruUa, purple and red J 

Seedling Carnations.— J. W. Wilkinson.— All the 
seedlings you sent are very pretty, of good quality, and 
well worth growing, particularly the blush white sort, 
which is the most distinct of all, and as pretty ns we 
have seen. If the seedlings are all of your own raising, 
such good results should be an encouragement to others 
to raise Carnations for themselves. 

Cracked Pears —G. Henderson.— The cracking of 
your Pears is no doubt attributable to the want of a 
proper flow or supply of sap Iu the tree ; want of moisture 
at a certain stage of growth makes the skin of the young 
fruit contract, whilst an excess of moisture following 
makes it crack. The tree is probably in bad health, | 
which must be remedied before cracking will cease. | 
Dracaena leaves turning brown.—IK. A. P.— I 
I have tried Amies’ manure and found a marvellous 
change, both In the colour and vigour of the plants ; new 
leaves are growing rapidly. I keep some of the manure 
in a tin box with a perforated top, and apply a little 
about once a fortnight before watering.—T knbury 

Double Abutilon8.— C. Thomas.— Your plant shows 
a tendency to produce double flowers—not a common 
occurrence ; but if the blooms do not become more double 
than those you send, the Variety will scatcely be worth 
perpetuating, being merely a monstrosity. 

White Pelargoniums.— F. Elsworthy .—Your seed 
ling is a very good one indeed, though it does not appear 
superior to one called Prima Donna that was first 
exhibited in London two years ago. 

S. Rogers.—Thanks for sketch. 

Names of fruit—A. Coleman.—It is impossible to 
name the variety of Strawberry by the inferior specimens 
sent. 

Names of Plants.— Anon.— l, Campanula fragills; 

2, Mesembryan them urn species; 3, Justicia speciosa; 4, 

Crassula (Kalosanthes) coccinea.- 15. L. C., Linton.— 

Emilia sagittifolia.- Lilian.— Gaultheria Shallon- 

Ben.— Cicuta virosa(very poisonous).- Zonalc — A good 

variety, but not better than many already In commerce. 

- W. Forster. —Gesnera longlflora- G. O. S.— Blue 

Poppy is Meconopsis Wallichi; Veronica speciosa buxi- 

folia.- J. Hannah.— 2, Veronica longlfolla; 8, Clay- 

tonia sibirica; 4, Sedum dasyphyllum : 5, Sedum spurium. 

- J W., Bryde .—Verbascum pulverulentum.- A 

Davidson.— 1, Aspldium feUx-mas ; 2, Laatrca dilitata 

3, variety of Mo. 1; 4, cannot name ; 5, Blechnum Spicant 

- W. Hutchins .—Campanula fragills.- Midlothian. 

1. Sedum Lydlum; 2, Sedum album; 3. Cruelanella 
stylosa; 4, Sedum oppositifolium; 5, Achillea Ptarmica 

fl.-pl.-«/. Watson.— Buddlela globosa- J. Ward.— 

Galega officinalis alba. - Miss Ridley. — Zephyrnnthes 

carinata, native of Mexico, grown in ordinary pitting 

soil in a cool greenhouse.- T. Harbord .—Campanula 

persicifoiiaalba ll.-pl. (fine variety).— -S. Rogers.— Caly- 

stegia pubescena ll.-pl.- S. E. W. — Varieties of the 

Crown Daisy (Chrysanthemum coronarium).- Chipper- 

field.— A hybrid Pelargonium similar to one called Shrub- 

land Pet.- Rab. —Phlomis fruticosa.- W. J. H. — 

Spireca arbefolia.— Mrs. Oliver. —Sisyrlnchlum striatum. 

- M. E. M— Schizopetalum Walkerl.- M. Robinson. 

— 1, Sedum oppositifolium; 2, Sedum album; 3, Funkia 
ovata; 4, Centranthua ruber; 5. Sisyrinchium anceps. 

- J- M.— 1, Pteria cretica; others cannot be named 

without spores on the fronds.- C. J. HycUr.— Appears 

to be the same as one called Henri Jacoby, one of the 

Zonal Pelargoniums.- A. Meyer.—No plant received 

with yonr letter. 

QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents .—A U communica¬ 
tions for insertion should be clearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. 
Letters relating to business to the Publisher. The name 
and address of the sender is required, in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of 
Gardenino going to press a considerable time before the 
day of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only 
can be named at one time , and this only when good 
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name 
varieties of florists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, 
Azaleas , as these can only be correctly named by a 
specialist who has the means of comparison at hand. Any 
com munication respecting plants or flowers sent to name 
should always accompany the parcel. 

10166.-Failure of Apple trees.—I have a garden 
on a gentle slope towards the south-east, and largely 
planted with Apples, amongst which are Lord Lennox 
and Cellini Pippin. These two, although planted but five 


years, and a long way yet from maturity, exhibit symp¬ 
toms of alow decay. The ends of the branches in some 
cases commenco first, in others the arms are the first to 
docay, and they appear as if seared by a hot iron. This 
appearance is in the incipient stage of the disease. The 
aifected branch soon withers and often rots, until I fear 
most of my trees, planted at a great expense, will soon 
die away. What is the disease, and is there a remedy ? 
I may add the subsoil is limey in its character, and 
though the upper end of the garden is drier than the 
bottom (which would b3 benefited by draining), yet the 
disease affects the trees equally on both parts.—VV. J. 
8I3I0NS, Wellingborough. 

10167.—Bad flavoured Peaches.—In my Peach 
house Inst year the fruit from some of the trcea was very 
large, but of decidedly Indifferent flavour, notably, 
Princess of Wales ; but Barrington, Royal George Peach, 
and Lord Napier Ncctarino in same house wore good. 
And this year Early Alexander has wanted flavour, some 
being small, with a hole at the base, and their stones un¬ 
sound. What is the cause ? Is it from want of proper 
impregnation, or too much or too little water? All 
possible air above and below is given.—It. H. II. 

10163. — Heating outside window conserva¬ 
tory.—I have for two years possessed a conservatory at 
one of my room windows which I am very anxioux 
to heat in the winter. I have tried paraffin lamps and 
burners of many kinds, but do as I may I cannot get the 
fumes outside. I find the flame so easily affected by the 
least wind, thus causing o smoke and smell which is dis¬ 
agreeable to me and ruin to my plants. Information as 
to how I should heat it will bo gratefully received.— 
W. T. 

10169.—Seakale culture.—I was very successful in 
forcing Seakale last year. I want to know whether 
the foliage, which is now very luxuriant, should be cut 
away, whether it would ho as well to mulch the bod, and 
whether the heat of the manure would be retained for a 
longer time if I were to cover the bed over with a wooden 
roof to keep off rain, or does Seakale require abundant 
moisture?—H. T* 

loieo.—Grapes cracking.—I should be glad to 
know the reason of the Grapes of the Chasselas Musque 
vine cracking, and in consequence becoming mildewed ? It 
may be well to add that the vine is in the same house 
with black Hamburghs, Lady Downes .Seedling, and 
West’s St. Peter’s, all of which are perfectly healthy.— 

10161 . — Destroying slugs. — One or two of my 
borders are infested with slugs or snails, which devour 
all the Parsley, French Marigolds, and Zinnias. I suffered 
in precisely the same manner last year, but not before. 

I go out every night and pick them off the plants, but 
this is tiresome work. Is there any method of clearing 
the borders during the winter months ?—G. P. 

10162.—Vegetable Marrows not running.— 
My Vegetable Marrow plants were sown in April, but I 
cannot get them to run at all. One or two Mbitowb grew 
about 2 inches long, and then they rotted from the 
bottom of the flower. I think the flower gets water 
inside; would it do to pick it off after the fruit has 
started?— Nemo. 

10163.— Plants for cool greenhouse.—Would 
someone kindly give me the names of some foliage and 
flowering plants that would grow in a cold greenhouse 
together with hardy exotic Ferns. Would the different 
sorts of Primula be suitable, Buck as japonica, cortu- 
soideB, sinensis, <fce. ?—J. M. 

10164.—Removing Carnation layers. — Should 
Carnation layers be removed from the old plant when 
rooted, or left attached to it until spring ? In the latter 
case, would there not be a fear of the parent plant dying, 
and the layers thus perisliing if left on it till spring.— 
A. F. 

10165.—Spot on Rose leaves.—I have given my 
Hybrid Perpetual Rose trees and China and Tea Rose 
trees liquid sheep manure once or sometimes twice a 
week, aud I have observed that the leaves get black spots 
on them. Can this be caused by the use of liquid sneep 
manure ?—A. F. 

10166.—Room Fernery.—I have an aquarium which 
I wish to convert into a Fern caso ; it has a slate bottom, 
with a hole at the centre. Will someone give me any in¬ 
formation as to how I can best make it suitable for Ferns ? 
My room hR8 an east window. Would this be suitable for 
their growth l— Fransais. 

10167.—Scale on Peach trees. — Several of my 
Peach trees (under glass) have been attacked by a large 
brown scale, shell-like on the upper side, and filled 
with white powder or mealy substance. Can anyone 
tell me the best means of getting rid of it without 
injuring the trees?—J. S. E. 

10168.—Climbing Roses.—Will someone tell mo 
thebest two climbing Rosea for a verandah .south aspect, 
which, on account of the paths being paved, would have 
to be grown In pots or boxes. Is there anything better 
than Roses to cover the verandah? I have tried Ivy, 
which did not thrive in a pot.—U. 

10169.— Crateegus Pyracantha. — I pnt a good 
plant of this in front of my house, north-west aspect, 
some two or three years since, during which time I have 
not had a single flower. It has made a fair show of new 
wood each year, and is about 6 feet high. What is 
the cause of its not blooming ?—H. 

10170.—Pots getting green.—I have a greenhouse 
full of plants, and cannot understand how it is the pots 
get so green outside, or that Moss grows on the top. I 
washed the pots about three weeks ago. but they are 
nearly as bad again. Can anyone suggest what I should 
do to prevent it?—F. W. M. 

10171.-Ground for Parsnips.—The ground In¬ 
tended for my next year’s Parsnips has not lately been 
manured. Should I water it during the winter with 
liquid manure, also spread solid manure on the surface, 
raking it off before sowing? 1 do not wont the Parsnips 
to grow forked.— E. H. H. 

10172. — Sowing Fern sporee.-I should feel 
obliged for information as to the befit time to sow spores 
of hardy exotic Korns, the compost most suitable, and if 

some could bo raised in a cold greenhouse or r*me_ 

J. M. 



272 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Aua. 18, 1883. 


10173.— Carnations, Pansies, &c.— How are KU- 
Iftraey Vetches, Potentillas, and Geums propagated, and 
can Anne Boleynand Garibaldi Pinks be divided? Should 
Pansies get liquid cow manure, and should the ground be 
manured before planting Carnations?—A. F. 

10174 —Treatment-*of Orange trees. —I have 
two of these in a border facing north-east, and they seem 
rather bushy at the base, but have not bloomed well this 
year; they have produced a lot of new wood this season. 
Ought I to prune them?—Y. Z. 

10175 —Celery culture.—Can I grow Celery pro- 
perly by the aid of vegetable manure in lieu of stable 
manure ? Would the vegetable manure for this purpose 
be improved by the addition of night soil; if so, in what 
proportion should the latter be added ?—E. H. H. 

10176.—Calceolarias In winter.—Can I preserve 
Calceolarias In a cold frame made of wood during 
winter, and if so,'what is.the necessary treatment; also 
would it harm the plants if I was to tar it ?—R. W, 

10177.—Clematis coccinea.—will someone kindly 
tell me if Clematis coccinea should be cut down in the 
winter ? If not, how should it be treated ? Any infor¬ 
mation as to culture will be thankfully received.—T. F. B. 

10178.—Plants for under stages —What could I 
plant to grow well in sand under staging in a greenhouse 
so as to produce a fresh, green appearance ?—E. W. C. 

10179.—Vines for north wall.—Would Vines thrive 
against a wall in a lean-to house with a north exposure? 
—Stirlingshire. 

10180.—Hot-bed. — How long does manure take to 
heat, and how long on an average will it retain a good 
heat under a Cucumber light ?—H. T. 

10181.— Worms on lawns.— Will someone tell me 
the quantity of lime to use to destroy worms on lawns, 
also in flower pots ?—Belmont. 

10182.— Garden hose.— Could any reader give me 
instructions with regard to repairing garden nose?— 
H. Thompson. 

10183.—Grubs on Pelargoniums.— My Pelargo¬ 
niums growing out-of-doors are infested with a green 
grub, like that usually seen on Cabbages. How can I best 
get rid of them ?—R. W. 

10184.—Planting: hardy flowers.—At what time 
of the year la it best to plant Phloxes, Pentstemons, 
Pyrethrum8, Delphiniums, and Hollyhocks?—G. E. M. 

10185.—Planting: Rose cuttings.—when should I 
plant out Rose cuttings which have been propagated and 
in a frame since last autumn.—E. W. C. 

10186.—Slugs SDd snails.—What is the technical 
difference between slugs and snails?-I ono. 


post free ; per bushel (16 bricks), 9s , carriage and package 
free.-A. J. A. BRUCE. 




■DEAUTIFUL AQUILEGIAS (Colnmbines).- 

JJ Ccerulea, splendid blue ; coerulea hybrida, blue and 
yellow: canadensis nana, scarlet; c&liformca hybrida, red 
and yellow ; chrysantha, yellow ; nice ytung plants nf above 
five, 2s. Canneil's (iocluding Douglas's and CmickshankV) 
flneBt hybrids, mixed. 12. 2s.; 24 3a. 6d : 100.10s ; alllree, 
packing guaranteed.—J. SYLVESTER, Idle. Bradford. 


PLANTS FOR SUSPENDING BASKETS 

AND BBACKET8.—The following fix will give great 
satisfaction in greenhouse or window; ail very distinct • Lysi- 
rnachia aurea. golden yellow leaves and flowers, 9& ; Sirnhor- 
pia europsea, 9d , a very deuse growing trailer of great beauty; 
Isolepis gracilis, Oxalis Acvtosella, 7d. ; Saxifraga sar- 
miDtosa, 6d. ; double and single Ivy-leaved Geraniums. 6d.; 
all free; one of each of the six, 3t. 4<L, free.—A. J. A. 
BRUCE, Nurseryman, Ac., Chorlton-cum-Hardy, Man¬ 
chester. 


uu, , in.uu, jl Olio it.-, uciglou ruiptu, iunr iiuwejcu 

French. Daniels’ show and fanoy, blotched, striped, quadri- 
oolor. Bugnots International, Ac , 24, 2a. Pyretbrum, finest 
French hybrids, double and single, mixed, 12. Is. 6d.; 24, 
2s. 6d. AJ1 above are nice youDg plants for immediate 
pricking out, quality not to be surpassed, free, packing 
guaranteed.—J. 8YLVE8TER, Idle, Bradford. 

"FLOWERS FOR WIN TER.-Begonia semper- 
J- Horens gr&ndifiora, pure white, and B. semperflorens 
rosea, rose, beautiful wax-like blossoms all winter; good 


PRIMULAS, a splendid mixture, Is. 6d. per rosea. ro«e. beiatirul „ai-like bloMomi all winter: uoo-l 
X A,a. ■ 12 dUtinct varietie.. 2a. ; 12 ditto, named, 2a. 4d.: fflgfthrSnw 8 u *” n *"S- 

out of pots, 3 h. per doz.; grand strong plants.—A. J. A. I Ss. dozen, 21s. 100. 

BRUCE. 


POULTRY. 

Management of fowlfl.— Will anyone 
tell me how it is that fowls when prepared for 
the table are found to be (internally) fat, but 
with very little flesh ? They have a good run, 
and are fed in the moraiDg on barley-meal and 
kitchen scraps, and in the afternoon on barley, 
Grass and green food being given them from the 
garden now and then.—E. B. 

Plymouth Rooks.—-I have a good many 
Plymouth Rock chicks. Rome are black, and 
others regularly marked with the two greys. 
The parent birds are not related. I wish to 
know whether “ Adam's ” breed are very dark, as 
my cock bird is of that strain, and very hand¬ 
some. I never had such dark chicks before of 
the same breed of fowls.—M. J. 

Fatting fowls.—What is considered to be the beBt 
food for tatting fowls ? Can anyone describe the system 
of cramming used by some of the large poultry rearers? 
I have been told they fat much quicker and that the flesh 
is more delicate when done in this way.—B. 


HUTTINGS. CHEAP CUTTINGS.-Bouvar- 

VJ dia Humboldti, 2s. per doe.: Hydrangea hortensis, 3s. 
(see recent advts.); Carnation Crenadin, splendid scarlet, 
blooming three weeks before the ordinary sorts. Is per doz.; 
Forget-me-not, perennial, much the best, does not die down in 
winter, strikes freely in a moist, shady place, Is. per doz.— 
A J. A. BRUCE. 


SPRING FLOWERS.—Silene pendula, the 

kJ prettiest pink spring flower, quite hardy; Wallflower 
Blood Red snd mixed Sweet William, a splendid strain, all 
9tL_per doz., 2 l 6d. per 100.-A. J. A. BRUCE._ 

Bv Parcels Post Delivery. 

HR AND WINTER BLOOMING GERA- 

VJ NIUM8.— Splendidly rooted strong plants, all colours, 
packed in tin boxes, free by parcels post. Guillion Mangilli, 
Jealousy, White Vesuvius. Aurora, Madame A. Baltet, Lady 
Sheffield, Mrs. Leavers, Wonderful, Sam Plimsoll, Asa Gray, 
one of each, 3a.—GEO. BOYE8 A CO., Aylestone Park, 
Leicester. 

OTRIKE CUTTINGS out-of-doors in July and 
kJ August for strong plants to winter in cold houses or 
frames, dibble 3 inches apart in road grit. Geraniums, 
splendid cuttings, all colours. Eomund Lequin. Mdine. A. 
Baltet. Rev. Atkinson, Asa Gray. Mis. Leaven, Wonderful, 
Mn. Skipwortb, Haidee. Jewel, Fille de 1‘Honneur; one of 
each. Is., post free.—GEORGE BOYE8 A CO., Nurserymen, 
A y lee ton e Park, Le icester. _ 

PELARGONIUMS, strong cuttings, good out- 

A tings.—Lady Isabelle (new). Rosy Gem, Picfcurata, Mer- 
mion, Digby Grand, La Patric, Duchess of Bedford. Duke of 
Albany, Bertie Boyes; one of each. Is., post free—GEORGE 
BOYES A OO., Nurserymen, Aylestone Park, Leicester. 


rrWENl Y-FOUR roots lovely DEVONSHIRE 

•L FERNS, many varieties, with botanical and English 
names, twelve stamps, free.—Miss WARREN, 17, Alexandra 
Place, Barnstaple 


rjLIMBING HONEYSUCKLE covered with 
VJ beautifully sweet-scented flowers all summer and scarlet 
berries In winter; for summer houses, arches, trellis work 
Ao. Six well rooted plants, post free. Is. 3d ; 12 for Is. 9U. 
Carefully packed.—THOS. P. MAY, 44, North Street, Horn- 
castle. 


"PERN ROOTS.—Hardy Lincolnshire Fern 

-L roots, very fine and massive, for rockeries and ferneries, 
rice 25 for 2s. 6d., 50 for 4s. 6d.; several are worth Is. each. 

warranted to flourish : assorted varieties ; carefully 
packed.—TH08. P. MAY, 44, North Street, Horn castle. 


G 1 RAILING IVY for window boxes, arches, 

J- trellis work, Ac. Six well rooted sprays, poet free. Is, 
Warranted and selected.—THOS. P. MAY, 44, North Street, 
Homcastle. ___ 

fjlNERARIA HYBRIDA GRANDIFLORA. 

VJ —Splendid large flowering variety. Benarj's strain, 6 for 
Is. 6d.; Primula cristata naua alba, flowers pure white and 
semi-double, Benary’s strain, 6 for Is. 6d. The above are 
strong plants, ready for blooming pots; they will be sent free 
by parcels post, well packed with soil attached to their roots. 
—CARBON A SON, Florists, Milifield, Peterborough. 


O FECIAL OFFER.—Will send 20 dozen plants 
KJ in 26 choicest varieties, as mentioned in Gardening, 
August 4, page 245, for 21s. t free, to any address for cash. 
Now is the time to plant.-J. FA1ROLOUGH, Northenden. 


DOUBLE ROMAN NARCISSUS, 2s. 6d. per dozen, 17s 
100; three of each, 2s. Both above are beautiful sweet- 
scented flowers, blooming at Christmas without forcing. 
White Roman Hyacinths (Blueskin), 2s. 3d. dozen ; blue do., 
2 b. SNOWDROPS, double or single, 3s. per 100: DUC VAN 
THOL TULIPS, single red and yellow, scarlet or crimson. 
Is. 6d. per dozen, 10s. 100; double red and yellow, Is. dozen, 
6 b. 100. All above are finest picked bulbs, and, by judioiom 
forcing, will bloom at Christmas ; all carriage frte for cash 
with order. Finest Dutch bulbs of all kinds; lists free.— 
J. SYLVESTER, Idle, Bradford. 

"DARCELS POST. — Pansies, 100 well rooted 
J- plants to flower this autumn, in ten distinct choicest 
show acd fancy varieties, carefully packed, fiee, 2a. 6d.—J 
GALVIN, Mount Talbot Nurseries, Roscommon. 


DOUVARDIA President Garfield, splendid 

■U double pink flowers, invaluable for cut bloom, la. 6d. 
each, 12s. per dor.; B. Alfred Neuner, pure white rosette¬ 
like double flowers, 9d. each, 6a. per doz.; B. Hauler, an 
attractive floriferous var., bearing fine clusters of deep scarlet 
flowers, 9d. each, 6s. per doz.; B. elegans, beautiful icarlet 
flowers, 9d. each. 6a. per doz.; B. Vreelandi. pure white, 6d. 
each, 4s. per doz.; B. Hogarth, splendid truss, bright orange- 
scarlet, fine habit. 6d. each, 4s per doz.; B. Humboldti corjm- 
biflora, snow-white flowers, almost equal to Stephanotls, 6d. 
each, 4s. per doz.; B. Jasminoides. large white flowers, de¬ 
lightfully fragrant, 6d. each, 4s. per doz.; Begonia fuchBloides, 
a fine winter-flowering specie*, producing attractive coral- 
like flowers, 9d. each. 7s. 6a. per doz.; Gardenia intermedia, 
best var., clean healthy plants, 9d. each, 7s. 8d. per doz. ; 
Marguerite Etoile d'Or, best var., true healthy plants of this 
are offered at 9d. each, 6s. 0d. per doz. Terms, cash with order 
post and package free —JOHN LEMAN, Chigwell, Essex. 

S PECIAL OFFER OF PLANTS BY’ 

PARCELS POST.—Orders of 5e. and upwards sent free 
by ParcelB Post; stronger and better plants can now be sent. 

B. W. KNIGHT begs to call special attention to the follow¬ 
ing selections, which are of the very best: — 12 new double 
Geraniums of 1882 for 9s.; 12 fine double Geraniums of 1881 
for 6s. ; 12 fine double Geraniums of 1880 for 4s.; 12 fine 
selected double Geraniums for 3s. ; 12 new single Zonal 
Geraniums of 1882 for 9s.; 12 fine etagle Zonal Geraniums of 
1881 for 6s. ; 12 fine single Zonal Geraniums of 1680 for 4s. ; 
12 fine selected single Zonal Geraniums for 3e. ; 12 new 
Fuchsias of 1882 for 9s.,; 12 fine Fuchsias, 1880-81, for 4s ; 
12 very select Fuchsias for 2s.; 6 fine fol.age Begonias, 3s.; 
6 fine winter-blooming Begonias, 3s.; 12 very select Green¬ 
house Plants, 6s. ; 12 select Greenhouse Ferns, 6s. ; 12 fine 


50 superb Fuchsias, in 25 or 50 varieties, for 8a.—From B. W. 
KNIGHT. Florist, Battle. Sussex. 


rjALCEOLARLAS, CINERARIAS, AND 

VJ PRIMULAS, from the very best flowers and colours 
extant, all raised from home grown seed, very superb strata* ; 
cannot fail to give splendid flowers. Calceolaria, Is. 6d per 
dozen ; Cineraria, Is. 6<L per dozen ; Primula, 2s. per dozen, 
in good plants, port free. From 

B. W. KNIGHT, Florist, Battle, Sussex. 


NTEW and SELECT EOUVARDIAS.-Theee 

■Lx useful winter-blooming plants, so valuable for cut bloom, 
are now offered In good plants: 12 fine varieties, including 
the new double white ALFRED NEUNER, for 4s., post free. 


BIRDS 

Parrakeet moulting. — “Yeadon’’ had 
better pat a few drops of Parrish’s Chemical 
Food into the bird’s drinking water, say ten 
drops to each ounce of water. Give a piece of 
soft wood, partially decayed, for the bird to 
gnaw ; and, if possible, let it have its liberty in 
an empty room, if with a companion of the 
same race, so much the better. Milk, meat, and 
hotter are very bad for parrots, and cause them 
to lose their feathers. “ Yeadon " should ascer¬ 
tain whether his bird is infested with parasites. 
—W. T. Greene, F.Z.S. 

Canary moulting. —Will some reader of 
Gardening tell me what to do for my canary 1 
Some time ago his crest gradually came off 
his pole, and he has since remained quite bald. 
Now he has entirely lost his voice. When I bought 
him I was told he was over-moult. He feeds 
on canary seed and rape, and sometimes seems 
better for some hemp. He has Groundsel and 
Nasturtium leaves occasionally. The hen with 
him is all right. I have tried mountain bread, 
but it does no good.—C. R. 8. 

Ketchup-Will anjbody favour me with a good 
rvolpa tor making Walnut and Unehroom ketchups J— 

C.o yle 



Two Plants by Parcels Post Is extra. 

A KALI AS, IS inches High and 18 inches dia- 

H mster. Well sot with buds, 2s, each; Camellias, nice 
busby plants well set with buds. 2a. each; Hoy as. 9a. each, 
3 feet klgh: Ficus elasfcifia, Is. 6d. each, 18 inches high; 
Palms, fine, Is. 6(1 each.-W. 0 CLLINGFOKD, Forest 
Qste, fl. 


Verschaffelti, with which it oontraata welL All bedders 
should procure it to work up stock for future use. It is also 
a grand decorative plant for the conservatory. Good plants, 
la. each, post free, from B. W. KNIGJIT, Florist, Battle, 

Sussex. _ 

pLIANTHUS, the Glory Pea of New Zealand, 

VJ Is. 3d. each. two. 2s. ; Tacsonia Van Volremi, the 
scarlet Passion Flower, la. each. two. Is. 6d.; Diplacus cah- 
fornicus, soft dead gold colour. Is. each, two, Is 6d. ; 
Plumbago capensis, blue. Is. each. two. Is. 6d. ; Myrtles, two. 
Is.; or one each of the five, 4s. ; all strong plants, post free.— 
F BRIGHT, Hendon, Middlesex. 

PEACH-LEAYED BELLFLOWER (Cam- 

A panula persicifolia alba fl.-pl) purest white, perfectly 
hardy, 3s. a dozen ; Schizostylis coocinea. autumn-flowering 
bulbs, 2s. a dozen; or half-dozen of each, 2s. 6d. • post free — 
F. BRIGHT, Hendon, Middlesex. 

T APAGERIA ROSEA and Hoy a cwnoBa, 

■LI splendid greenhouse climber*, Is. 4d. each ; Tuberous 
Begot)iaa, splendid varietiee, flower* 5 inches acroes, six. 
Is. 3d. ; Single Dahlias (Ware 1 *), no seedlings, 2s 6tL doz., 
from single pots; Nicotiana affini*. six, Is. 2d. ; Palui-leaved 
Ora**, equal to Palms, six, l*. ; double white Marguerites, 
double yellow do., Canneil’s new of 1883, 6d. each ; Cannell’a 
new 1883 single Chrysanthemums Magenta King and Yellow 
Gem. fid. each; all strong and frej.—HENRY k CO., Chig- 
well Row Essex. 


EXHIBITION PERENNIAL PHLOXES 

AND PANSIES in the very finest varieties grown: 12 
named Phloxes in 12 varieties, 2s. 6<L ; 21.4s. 6d : 12 named 
Pansies In 12 varieties. 3s ; 12 Chrysanthemums in 12 varie¬ 
ties, strong plants, 3a.; 12 strong flowering Pyretimuns, 3« , 
free per parcels post for cash with order to B.W. PROCTOR. 
Ashgats Hoad, Chesterfield. 





































































GARDENING ILLUSTRATED,, 


ir 

3 


a 
of I 



Vol. V. 


THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE. 


Perns and Fine Foliaged Plants. 

Bti'oiiK entering on the subject of plants 
adapted to cold house gardening, let me return 
again briefly to that of their judicious arrange¬ 
ment. In the conservatory especially—be it 
heated or otherwise—it is a matter of much 
more importance than is generally supposed to 
study the grouping of beautiful foliage with 
flowers. It is not enough to set each pot upon a 
stand, admirable and elegant as the individual 
specimen may be—as the system is in most 
glasshouses—a system, moreover, which must 
continue until the arrangement of plants is 
entrnsted to other hands than those of the culti¬ 
vator, which are already oftentimes overcharged. 
Have you never seen a bank of Pelargoniums or 
Calceolarias, each one of which in itself is pro¬ 
bably as near to perfection as can be, yet each 
so hopelessly mixed up with the bright colours 
of its neighbours, without the relief of even a 
single foliaged plant, that the sight has afforded 
you mere pain than pleasure 1 On the contrary, 
how often does the eye rest with a satisfied 
delight on some single bright-flowered plant sur¬ 
rounded and set oS by the delicate tracery of ferns 
or other foliage. No one with the slightest pre¬ 
tension to artistic taste would arrange a bouquet 
without the relief of Fern fronds or graceful 
leaves, and without regard to harmony of colour. 
The most pleasing arrangements in cut flowers 
are invariably those which are most simple—a 
single species, or at most' two or three, with 
suitable foliage and grasses will generally 
command attention and admiration. And so 
ought it to be, in a measure, in our conserva¬ 
tories. There is no end to the beauty of form 
and tint in the foliage of hardy plants and ferns, 
and the artistic grouping of these, with bright 
flowers interspersed, but not too freely, forms one 
chief part of the amateur’s enjoyment of his 
conservatory. To catch sight, as you enter your 
sitting room, of the cool foliage beyond, out of 
which peep flowers of many hues, yet each dis- 
tinot and keeping its own individuality, is a 
refreshment to body and mind which can 
scarcely be over-estimated, and which makes 
home very sweet to the tired home-comer. 
Therefore, a little time spent in arranging them 
to best advantage is time not wasted, but im¬ 
proved. So, with a clear conscience, we may 
make pictures of our plants by grouping—by at¬ 
tending to any little detail of contrivance which 
may enhance their beauty, and a rich reward of 
enjoyment and wholesome recreation will spread 
over our own lives and, haply, will overflow into 
those of our neighbours. To the end, therefore, 
of a tasteful arrangement of your flowering 
plants, do I lay so much stress upon the disuse 
as far as possible of staging. A light stand or 
two—any little dodge which your ingenuity can 
devise for raising a pot here, or hiding a bare 
stem there—in fact, any plan by which you can 
vary the position of your plants according to 
their natural growth and the exigencies of the 
moment, will be a help. Above all, be sure 
from the very first to provide for abundance of 
foliage. If yon are just setting up your un¬ 
heated greenhouse, begin to furnish it by grow¬ 
ing 

Hardy Perns in Pots. 

They can be planted out at any time when no 
longer required and occasion serves; but a good 
stock of pot Ferns is invaluable. They are easy 
to obtain and easy to manage, and the different 
species are so varied and distinct that with their 
help alone your house will be a constant pleasure 
without a flower at all. In their culture, shelter 
without draught, cool shade and moisture, with 
a suitable soil—in most cases sandy peat and 
loam—are the chief desiderata. An occasional 
watering with soot water, which is the best of 
ill fertilisers for Ferns, gives a deep, rich green 
to their fronds ; bnt beware of liquid manure in 
my other form. It may be used with impunity, 
bat is often injurious. 

Ferns naturally divide themselves into two 
iiroad classes — evergreen and deciduous, or 
winter and summer species. Some of the best 
#f our British Ferns alone would amply s utlice 

Digitized by GOOglC 


AUGUST 25, 1883. 


for foliage, if none other can be obtained. I do 
not now speak of making a collection of them, 
for the sports and varieties are endless, and, as 
far as my own taste is concerned, not so well 
adapted, in most cases, for the purpose of foliage, 
as the typical species. In fact, I am inclined 
myself to place many of the crested and de¬ 
pauperated varieties of our British Ferns (which 
are nevertheless most eagerly sought after by 
collectors) in the same category amongst plants 
as I should the pig-faced woman or the living 
skeleton of our country fairs—that of mon¬ 
strosities of nature much to be avoided. But 
individual taste must be the exponent of in¬ 
dividual practice, and far be it from me to wish 
mV neighbour to see always through my spec¬ 
tacles. But undoubtedly for perfection and grace 
of form we need seek no further than amongst 
well-grown examples of our common British 
Ferns in their best varieties. For the conveni¬ 
ence of those who are as yet inexperienced, I 
will give a short list of 

British Ferns 

suitable for growing in pots for the deco¬ 
ration of an unheated greenhouse. Many 
species, such as Asplenium Adiantum-nigrum 
(Black Spleenwort), A. TrichomaDes (Maiden¬ 
hair Spleenwort), Bleehnums (Hard Fern), 
and others, are omitted from the following selec¬ 
tion, because they are found to be, for various 
reasons, not so amenable to culture under glass. 

Evergreen kinds.— Adiantum Capillus-Ve- 
neris (the true English Maiden-hair) delights in 
shelter of glasshouse; Asplenium fontanum 
(Fountain’s Abbey Fern); Lastrea Filix-mas 
(Male Fern) and vars.; L. :emula (Hay-scented 
Fern); L. dilatata (Broad Buckler Fern); Poly¬ 
podium vulgare (common Polypody) and vars. 
These like a great deal of moisture, are in full 
beauty in mid-winter, and die down in summer. 
P. cambricum (Welsh Polypody) is a very hand¬ 
some species, best grown in pans. Polystichnm 
aculeatnm (Prickly Shield Fern); P. angulare 
(Soft Prickly Shield Fern); Scolopendrium vul- 
gare and vars. (Hart’s-tongue). These delight 
in standing very constantly in a saucer of 
water, and make most beautiful specimens under 
good cultivation. 

Deciduous kinds. —Among these are Athy- 
rium Filix-fuemina (Lady Fern) and its many 
beautiful vars* Attention to watering these is of 
the utmost importance, as the fronds quickly and 
hopelessly shrivel if neglected, and the season's 
growth is lost. Osmunda regalis (Royal Flower¬ 
ing Fern) and the preceding species like 
to stand in pans of water daring the time of 
growth. Cystopteris fragilis (Brittle Bladder 
Fern)—also impatient of dry soil, but does not 
require a constant supply at the roots like the 
foregoing. Allosorus crispns (Mountain Parsley 
Fern); Polypodium Dryopteris (Oak Fern); 
Phegopteris (Beech Fern). 

Hardy Exotic Ferns. 

Many of these are hardy enough to winter in 
an outdoor fernery, such as Lastrea marginata, 
L. intermedia, and Polystichnm acrostichi- 
oides, the fronds of which are rarely disfigured 
by the hardest frost, even in the open air. 
Japan, North America, New Zealand, and even 
Madeira supply us with many hardy and distinct 
species of Athyrium, Asplenium, Lastrea, and 
Osmunda suited to cold house culture. But 
besides these, there are an infinite number of Ferns 
which are so accommodating in their nature, 
that they seem to thrive almost equally well in 
a stove or in an unheated house, but, as one may 
express it, they must be educated to their posi¬ 
tion. Never forget that it is a hopeless thing 
to take a Fern (or indeed any other plant) 
straight from a hothouse to a cold one. It may 
not die outright, but it will probably be long 
before it takes kindly to its new quarters. 
Therefore, in getting any Fern of doubtful hardi¬ 
ness, be sure you accustom it gradually to a 
change of temperature. I have myself grown a 


* In Sir. R. Sim’a Fein nursery, at Foot's Cray, Kent, 
there used to be grown a dwarf crisped variety of Lady 
Fern, and called Carden Parsley Fern, from its re¬ 
semblance to the true Parsley Fern; It was used for 
edging purposes. 


No. 233. 


good many Ferns, some of them reputed tender, 
but which have succeeded excellently well under 
the conditions to which I have subjected them. 
I will presently subjoin a short list of those 
which have answered best under cold treatment. 
In choosing Ferns, one must consider the space 
which can be devoted to them, as the fronds of 
some species, such as the Ostrich Fern 
(Struthioptcris germaniea), Woodwardia radi- 
cans, and Lomaria chilensis andL. magellanica, 
reach the length of from 4 feet to 5 feet. One 
of the most lovely of deciduous Ferns, and suit¬ 
able for a small house, though much less com¬ 
monly seen than it deserves to be, is the North 
American Adiantum pedatum (Bird’s-foot 
Maiden-hair). It is of undoubted hardiness, and 
is admirably adapted to pot culture or for 
exhibition, and for use in the conservatory in 
summer can scarcely be rivalled. 

It must be understood that the ferns in the 
following list should be placed, in very hard 
weather, beyond the reach of frost. The use of 
the heat radiator before mentioned, as it effectu¬ 
ally keeps the temperature above freezing point, 
is all that is necessary. I can state as a fact, 
however, that Adiantum gracillimum, that most 
delicate looking-of Maiden-hair ferns, withstood 
6° of frost without injury in my own greenhouse 
two winters ago. Bnt this is very risky, and 
causes uneasiness; therefore I should recommend 
that such doubtful ferns as these (if you have no 
other means of keeping them safe) be housed on 
a standindoorsduring the severest winterweather, 
employing those only of undoubted hardiness for 
decoration during the very short time—perhaps 
three or four weeks—when such extra precautions 
will be needful. 

Tender Exotic Ferns. 

The list includes Asplenium bulbiferum and 
fiaocidum, proliferous ferns producing plantlets 
on the pinna: of the fronds. Adiantum cuneatnm 
(Maiden-hairfern), A. formosum, A. gracillimum, 
(fine-leaved Maiden - hair), A. hispidulnm, 
Davallia canariensis (Hare’s-foot fern) requires 
a season of rest annually. (Very probably other 
species of Davallia would succeed under cold 
treatment, as D. Mooreana, and D. pyxidata.) 
Doodia aspera, Nephrodium molle, Onychium 
japonicum, Pellaea hastata, Bhymatodes vulgaris 
(evergreen). Pteris cretica and cretica albo- 
lineata (evergreen). Pteris longifolia, P. serru- 
lata, P. tremula, P. umbrosa, and the elegant 
Woodwardia radicans. But ferns are not the 
only foliaged plants which may be grown with 
advantage for the unheated conservatory. 
Nothing can be more beautiful nor more 
easy to manage than small specimens of the 
dwarf Fan Palms (Chamierops excelsa and 
C. humilis), which defy frost, and only ask the 
protection of glass to shelter their sensitive 
leaves from tearing winds and weight of snow. 
Both these species I have raised from seed, and 
they are now seven or eight years old and good 
specimens. They may be grown for several 
years in the same 14-inch pots, thriving well if 
ordinary, attention is paid to watering and 
soaking with soot or manure water, with an 
occasional mulching with rich soil. Myrtles, 
both large and small leaved, make admirable 
evergreens for the cold house, and so do the 
different species of Acanthus. The list might be 
greatly prolonged, but enough has perhaps been 
said to be suggestive on this head, which is all 
that short papers such as these can lay claim to 
do. 

Autumn, Winter, and Spring- 
flowering Plants. 

The chief difficulty in the way of the cold-house 
gardener is to have his conservatory gay in the 
very depth of winter. Up to late autumn there 
is no lack of plants whose blooming may be pro¬ 
longed by the mere shelter of glass until nearly 
Christmas, if they are properly prepared for the 
purpose. For example : if Begonias of the hardy 
tuberous section are retarded by being potted 
late and grown out-of-doors, either sunk in pots 
in the open border or in a cold frame, which is 
the better plan during the heat of summer, and 
are brought into the conservatory late in the year, 
they will continue blooming fora long time after 


274 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[A co. 25, 1883. 


those in the open ground are over. Some 
recommend these being lifted from the borders 
where they are bedded out, early in autumn, and 
potted to continue blooming in the house, but I 
have not found this plan answer so well for the 
unheated house as when they are especially 
prepared for the purpose. 

Single Dahlias, 

again, make splendid pot plants, though 
rather large ones for late autumn blooming 
under glass. A packet of good seed will yield 
many most beautiful varieties. Choose any of 
these from the borders (where it is presumed 
they have been planted out) which you may 
think worthy of preserving. Pot them up rather 
early before frost cuts them off, water well, and 
stand out-of-doors until the foliage dies down 
naturally. Winter them in their pots in your 
cellar out of reach of frost. In the spring, as 
late as you reasonably can delay it, as they are 
wanted for autumn blooming, top-dress the pots 
in rich soil, and grow them on in some genial 
position in the open air into nice bushy plants, 
pinching in the shoots if necessary, and removing 
too forward flower buds. By this plan you may 
have magnificent bloom and colour in your house 
until quite late in the year, to contrast with your 
Chrysanthemums. Zonal Pelargoniums of certain 
kinds, treated much in the same way, minus the 
cellar, and rigorously disbudded throughout the 
summer, will give abundance of late bloom, even 
in an unheated house, especially if the season be 
genial. For years I had two favourite old plants 
of Vesuvius which were wintered in any con¬ 
venient corner out of reach of frost. They were 
repotted every spring, stood out-of-doors in an 
open frame during the summer and carefully 
watered and looked over every day or two to 
pick off the flower buds, which appeared 
incredibly fast. In late autumn, when at length 
they were allowed to bloom, they made fine 
specimens, and being sturdy plants well ripened, 
they gave abundance of flowers, which made a 
glow of colour for a long time in the conservatory 
when colour was most welcome. There are now 
magnificent Zonal Pelargoniums, such as Henry 
Jacoby, De Lesseps, Edward Sutton, Gaythorne 
Hardy, and many others of new and beautiful 
shades of colour from deep crimson to white, 
which by- this treatment may be retarded into 
splendid late autumn bloomers. We cannot 
expect them, however, to keep in flower without 
artificial heat much beyond November. 


Chrysanthemums 

are indispensable for the cold greenhouse, and 
every possessor of one should learn to grow these 
valuable plants to perfection. It is scarcely 
possible or needful here to enter into full direc¬ 
tions for their culture—but it must not be for¬ 
gotten that of all plants for late autumn and 
even winter blooming none are so suitable or so 
easily grown into any size convenient to the 
accommodation to be devoted to them. To make 
very small specimens, it is even possible to take 
oil the points of the shoots in June. They will 
strike readily and flower well. Some of the 
summer-flowering species retarded at their 
natural season would probably make good plants, 
and very floriferous ones, for late autumn bloom¬ 
ing under glass. The single white Chrysanthe¬ 
mum frutescens (more corectly Argyranthemum 
frutescens) or Paris Daisy, and its beautiful 
primrose-coloured companion, “Etoile d’Or," if 
grown out-of-doors and disbudded, make admi¬ 
rable pot plants for a cold house, and will bloom 
far on into the winter. 

But there comes a time, from the middle of 
December to the first week or two in January— 
the darkest and dreariest in the whole year as 
far as flowers are concerned —when the ingenuity 
of the cold honse gardener is severely taxed. It 
is the dead season of the year—all Nature is at 
rest, and it is very difficult, without artificial 
heat, to have flowers of any kind. It is not 
merely the cold, but the damp and fog, which 
penetrate everywhere and have to be contended 
against. It is at this dull season chiefly that I 
make use of the heat radiator, not for the sake 
so much of raising the temperature as to set the 
air in circulation, and so to dissipate any stagnant 
damp, which would be not only injurious to the 
plants, but unpleasant in the close neighbour¬ 
hood of a sitting-room. However, even at this 
dreary time of year, it is possible by good 
management to have some flowers to relieve the 
sombre tones of t^e ferns and folfage plants, 


vers to reli 
id foliage 


which, if you are wise, you will have at all 
seasons in abundance. The crimson Bpikes of 
Schizostylis coccinea are now invaluable, and 
should be specially grown and prepared for the 
purpose, nor should we be without the cheerful 
yellow flowers of Coronilla glauca. Laurestinus, 
too, grown in pots, leaves nothing to be desired, 
for small plants grown on in a genial situation 
out-of-doors during spring and summer, and well 
cared for with water, will set their buds freely, 
and nothing can be prettier than their pure 
wliite trusses of bloom when opened under glass. 
In some favoured parts of the country, Laures¬ 
tinus blooms to perfection out-of-doors, but in 
how many more are its flowers, year by year, 
disfigured by snow or cold winds 1 l’ernettya 
mucronata is another evergreen shrub, which, 
with judicious management, is well adapted for 
pot culture. It flowers in spring, and fruits in 
autumn, but it keeps its beautifully tinted 
berries throughout the winter. Of late years a 
good many new varieties have been raised, with 
fruit ranging in colour from maroon through 
crimson and pink almost to white; and these 
little bushes are highly ornamental, and likely 
to become popular. Daphne Mezereum, easily 
raised from seed, and its handsome Japanese 
ally D. odora Mazeli, bloom so early naturally 
that they can readily be had in bloom amongst 
the first blossoms of the year. As a companion 
to these, Jasminum nudiflorum—the Winter 
Jessamine—makes a very manageable pot plant, 
blooming freely in a compact little bush at about 
2 feet high. Ashmore. 


Unheated greenhouses.— I have just 
read " Ashmore’s ’’ article on greenhouses with 
the deepest interest, as I am at this moment 
trying to decide the literally “ burning question ” 
of winter heating. Will Zonal Geraniums, 
which are now being prepared, flower in winter 
in a cool greenhouse, and can I hare flowers, 
such as Primulas, Calceolarias, Cinerarias, Lily 
of the Valley, Cytisus, Azaleas and Camellias, 
&c., in good bloom from December to March in a 
cool greenhouse ? If so, I decide at once in 
favour of the heat radiator, and beg of Ash¬ 
more ” to say where I can buy one, and if colza 
oil can be used for it, as paraffin is so disagree¬ 
able. My greenhouse is about 12 feet by 8 feet. 
My ambition is to have it always full of healthy 
plants in bloom, and I have no gardener.— 
Violet, 

- I am delighted with “ Ashmore's ” 

article on this subject, which I hope will be 
continued in the same spirit as it has been 
begun. I have had a small greenhouse for three 
years, and have resisted all well-meant attempts 
to “heat” it permanently, preferring Rippin- 
gill’s paraffin oil-stoves with two burners, 
lighted only when wanted to keep out frost or 
destroy damp. I can keep half-hardy as well 
as hardy plants through the winter, and for¬ 
ward the flowering of many bulbs, while, being 
in delicate health, protection is afforded me 
from the wintry blast.— Alice F. Malcolm, 
Vollalloh. 

■ -I should be glad if “Ashmore," who 

wrote on the unheated greenhouse, would let me 
know the price of and where I can obtain a 
“ heat radiator” such as is described, and also a 
list of the best plants for a small greenhouse 
heated by Gillingham's radiator during frosty 
weather.— Stockport. 


Effect of oharooal on seed germi¬ 
nation.—Since writing on this subject, I have 
again tried the effects of charcoal on seeds of 
Primula sinensis and show Auriculas. The seeds 
were sown and treated as described before, and 
the germination was again extraordinarily 
rapid. The Primulas came up in twelve to 
seventeen days, and the Auriculas took about 
four to five days longer. I have to draw atten¬ 
tion, however, to a peculiarity of the seedlings 
thus raised, the full bearing of which I did not 
recognise when first I wrote on the subject. The 
rootlets of the seedlings ran quite ex posed over the 
charcoal on the surface, and a great many after 
a time died in consequence of being thus ex¬ 
posed. Thinking that perhaps the shade 
might have been too dense, I took good 
care not to shade too much the second 
time, but in spite of this the roots ran again over 
the surface only, and a great many perished 
again. This was not very satisfactory, but as I 


did not wish to abandon the advantage of rapid 
germination which the use of charcoal had 
revealed itself to possess, I tried to improve on 
the previous method, and have succeeded to my 
satisfaction. After covering the seeds well with 
charcoal powder, I covered this again with fine 
dry sand till none of the charcoal remained 
visible. All the seeds thus treated have come up 
vigorously and in a shorter time than usual; 
none had their roots exposed owing to the 
covering of sand, and the progress made has 
been in every way satisfactory. None of this 
third sowing, however, belonged to the Primula 
family.—T. H. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

MEADOW SAFFRONS 
(COLCHICUMS). 

The Colchicums or autumn Crocuses as they are 
often erroneously called, are hardy bulbous 
plants, which flower in autumn just after 
summer-blooming plants have lost their fresh¬ 
ness, and when the days have begun to rapidly 
shorten. Unlike many bulbous plants, their 
presence in the ground in early spring when the 
borders are being prepared for summer-blooming 
plants, is not likely to be overlooked, for after 
the flowers have disappeared in autumn, we find 
no trace of them above ground during the 
winter months, bntamong the earliest harbingers 
of spring appear the vigorous leaf-stems, bear- 
! ing three or more leaves, and carryng with them 



Autumn Meadow Saffron (Colehlcum autumnale). 


the seed pod or capsule. The species and 
varieties most worthy of culture are C. autum¬ 
nale, which we here figure. The well known 
British species, with its many varieties, vary in 
colour from deep purple, rosy pale, and rose, 
to pure white, whilst some forms are more or 
less striped with white; the same species has 
also several very beautiful double flowered forms. 
C. Byzantinum is a noble species, the petals of 
which are of good substance and very regular in 
outline—the whole flower meat perfect in form. 
Of this species there is also a form with varie¬ 
gated foliage—C. variegatum, and C. Parkinson, 
another very beautiful kind, has flowers che¬ 
quered in a manner similar to those of the 
Snake's Head (Fritillaria meleagris). Lastly, 
we come to the noblest of the family—C. spe- 
cioBum. It is exceedingly floriferous, each bulb 
throwing up many flowers. There are many 
other species of Colchicum worthy of cultiva¬ 
tion, but those enumerated nre the best. As 
regards culture, all the species may be grown in 
ordinary flower borders, but to have them in 
perfection choose a situation fully exposed to 
the sun, and plant in soil of a sandy character— 
in fact, such a spot as is likely to dry up during 
summer. Here they will luxuriate and enjoy 
the autumn and early spring rains. Another 
excellent position for these Colchicums is on the 
edges of the lawn. They will throw up their 
flowers in autumn, and the grass will protect 
them from being splashed with soil by the rains, 
as they often are when in an ordinary border. 


Stook John Bright.— At a show of Stocks 
at Failsworth, on Saturday last, a prize was 
offered for the best three spikes of Stocks of 
any variety, and no fewer than twenty-four com- 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






Digitized by 


Google 


Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



276 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Aug. 25, 1883. 


is a very continuous flowerer, throwing up 
spikes 3 feet high, with upwards of forty blooms 
on eaGh spike. The flowers are brilliant ver¬ 
milion, with a white throat veined with crim¬ 
son, and measuring 1£ inch across.—A. L. 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a Oar den Diary—August 27 to 
September 1 . • 

Shifting Cyclamen bulbs into flowering pots. Totting 
Cineraria out of 3-inch pots into 6-inch pots, in which 
they are to flower. Tutting in cuttings of Violas in border 
for spring bedding. Tutting in cuttings of Violas under 
north wall for spring bedding. Cutting Lavender for 
distilling. Tutting in cuttings of Telargoniums and 
Fuchsias for winter flowering. Tying shoots of Mardch&l 
Niel Rose in cold house and loosening buds oil Briers. 
Tutting in cuttings of Heliotrope and Ageratum for 
stock. Gathering Williams's Bon Chrdtien Pears and 
Keswick Codlin Apples. Cutting out superfluous wood 
from Figs in order to give the fruit more light. Gathering 
all ripe Apples. Cutting a few berries out of late Grapes 
where too thick. Removing all runners from Straw¬ 
berries for forcing, and giving them a little more room, 
where crowded, to admit air and light. Hoeing ground 
between growing crops of Cabbages, Cauliflowers, and 
Lettuces. Tying, training, and stopping Tomatoes. Plant¬ 
ing out Bath Cos Lettuces and more Endive for winter 
use. Getting in hotbed in Cucumber house for winter 
Cucumbers. Sowing Mustard and Cress. Mixing loam 
and leaf-mould in which to plant Cucumbers. Pulling 
up Carrots that are running to seed. Harvesting Onions 
and storing them on stages in cold houses to dry. Storing 
Regent Potatoes and covering them with straw. Earthing 
up Celery. Clearing Peas off ground and manuring it for 
winter digging. Cutting out useless growths from Toma¬ 
toes and also a few leaves to ensure the fruit ripening. 
Planting the following sorts of Cucumbers for winter, 
viz., Hedsor Prolific, Telegraph, and Duke of Connaught. 

Glasshouses. 

Preparation fob winter. —Whatever has 
to be done in the way of repairs to plant houses, 
re-adjustment of heating apparatus, painting, 
and other things of like nature, this is the best 
time in the whole year for carrying it out, as 
rrow whilst a good many plants are undergoing 
their hardening process in the open air, the 
different structures may, by exercising a little 
judgment, be cleared in succession, so as to 
admit of the necessary work being done, which 
it can be so much better and expeditiously than 
when the houses are encumbered with occupants. 
Where the woodwork can be well dried, such as 
permitted of it when the houses were cleared, 
painting is more preservative in its effects than 
when done, as often seen, with the wood in a 
half saturated condition, in which state it is of 
little use. The advantage of doing such work 
at this season in place of deferring it nntil 
autumn or spring, as frequently happens, can¬ 
not be over-rated. 

’ Greenhouse plants.— The earlier hatches 
of tuberous Begonias will now begin to lose 
vigour, and must be gradually put to rest by 
withholding water and placing them in a dry 
warm frame or other position fully exposed to 
the sun. Bomareas also should be gradually 
brought to a state of rest. The fine old Ery- 
thrina Crista-galii will now be fast approaching 
the flowering stage, and if the plants have been 
well and liberally treated during the growing 
season, a fine display of blossom will be the 
result. The stock of early flowering soft-wooded 
Heaths will now be setting and swelling their 
flower buds, and while in this stage must not 
be allowed to suffer from any lack of water 
at the roots, otherwise many of the flowers will 
dry up on the plants when they are abont half 
grown. These and Epacrises should now occupy 
positions fully exposed to the sun. Hoses in 
pots intended to produce flowers during autumn 
must now be kept perfectly clean and free from 
aphides and other pests. All autumn-flowering 
plants, such as Chrysanthemums, Salvias, &c„ 
will now be getting pot-bound, and must be 
liberally fed with liquid manure in order to 
keep their foliage fresh and healthy. Cuttings 
of Kalosanthcs, Hydrangeas, and of any other 
plants that are rooted should be potted without 
delay in order to get them established before 
winter. Among bulbous plants that are now in 
beauty, the Tritonia aurea and several varieties 
of the Tigridia are the best; the latter especially 
are very striking and effective when grown in 
pots. 

Flower Garden. 

Sun tropical and fine-foliaged beds. 
—Besides tying to supports as a prevention 
against injury from wind and heavy rain storms, 
and the removal Tbaves and shdots that over- I 
hang the fnrf tykiSj ^n^iry. djkre(js v )it()e else I 


needed just now in this department. Growth of 
late has been profuse and the beds will never be 
better; hence the present is the time to take 
note of what to repeat or what to avoid in future 
arrangements. I have marked the following for 
repetition, viz., a bed of tall Sunflowers and 
Castor-oils in combination ; one of single Dahlias, 
Marguerites, and Acacia lophantha; and another 
of Solanum robustum and marginatum (a row of 
each), with Eucalyptus and tall Cannas in the 
centre. The variegated Abutilon and crimson¬ 
stemmed Chilian Beet in combination are also 
very pretty. Amongst the fine dwarfer-foliaged 
plants, succulents at present bear the palm. Sem- 
pervivum arboreum, arboreum purpureum, and 
arboreum variegatum, large-leaved Echeveriae, 
and American Agaves are the principal large 
kinds used, the carpeting plants for the same 
being Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variega¬ 
tum, conspicuuru, and coerulescens; all the 
attention that these beds now need is to keep 
them free from weeds. Pick the seed-pods off the 
Mesembryanthemum8, and give on occasional 
press down with the hand to keep the growth 
right under the taller plants. When thus trim¬ 
ming up the beds advantage should be taken 
of the opportunity to take the necessary cut¬ 
tings for next year's needs. All succulents 
strike best in pots; no bottom-heat is needed, but 
full exposure to the sun and protection from 
heavy rains. 

Herbaceous flower borders. — Now, 
whilst the plants are in flower, is the time to 
weed out all worthless or curious species, and 
replace them by increasing the stock of such 
kinds as not only make the best show in the 
open borders, but are most useful in a cut state. 
The Achilleas, Japanese Anemones, Bhioxes, 
Galegas, Actseas, Potentillas, Pentstemons, and 
Poppies are at the present time in grand 
blossom ; they have had about the same amount 
of attention as to watering, picking over, and 
tying up as has been given to ordinary bedded- 
ont plants. Both sections are valuable in their 
respective places, but neither one nor the other 
will make a creditable display if left to take 
care of themselves, and yet many people appear 
to think so, more especially in respect to her¬ 
baceous plants. Many of the kinds may now be 
propagated freely by means of offsets, and 
Phloxes and Pentstemons by cuttings, but those 
that need to be increased by division must be 
left until later in the year. Keep the borders 
free from weeds, trailers well to their support, 
seed-pods picked off Sweet Peas, and if there are 
any vacant spots, sow hardy annuals for early 
spring flowering. 

General work. —Water shrubs, Roses, and 
climbers on walls that rain cannot reach. In the 
case of these, a good wash with the hose or 
garden-engine is also desirable. Clip Trivet and 
Yew hedges, and give a final trimming for this 
season ' to Box edgings. Propagate bedding 
plants at every opportunity, and also prepare 
spring-flowering plants by pricking off seedlings, 
splitting up Polyanthuses, Primroses, Forget-me- 
nots, and similar material. 

Fruit. 

Vines.— Houses in which late Grapes are 
intended for keeping through the winter, either 
on the Vines or in the Grape room, will require 
liberal ventilation with gentle fire heat for the 
maintenance of a circulation of air. Reduce 
the laterals as days decrease in length, and 
keep the foliage clean and healthy by means of 
a moderate snpply of moisture applied to the 
walls and paths in fine weather, and sufficiently 
early in the day to prevent condensation at 
nightfall. Mnscats now colouring will require 
more light and air; and when quite ripe, they 
will keep a long time if the border is protected 
from the direct influence of heavy autumnal 
rains. Coverings of dry Fern, shutters, or, best 
of all, glass lights placed in a sloping position, 
answer well for throwing off water, while they 
attract snn heat to the surface of the border. If 
spider has injured the old foliage to any extent, 
and the latter is not sufficient for the protection 
of the tender skins of the berries, it will be 
necessary to lay in a few of the laterals 
and to stop them at the third or fourth joint 
to secure an even spread of healthy foliage, or 
modern bouses glazed with large squares of 
21-ounce glass may have some light shading 
thrown over the exterior. Hexagon netting 
answers well, as it does not exclude light; 
neither does jt interfere with the free passage of 


air; moreover, it may be made to do double 
service, by being drawn over the opening lights 
and ventilators for keeping out wasps. Vines 
from which the fruit has been cleared will re¬ 
quire unremitting attention for some time to 
come. If trained on the semi-extension principle, 
all the fruit-bearing shoots may be reduced to 
five or six eyes, and, assuming that the old 
leaves are clean and healthy, the removal of the 
laterals from the lower half of the buds left will 
be of great service, as next year’s success de¬ 
pends upon getting them thoroughly ripened 
and the embryo bunches perfectly formed. 

Strawberries in pots.— By this time the 
latest plants will have become well established 
in the fruiting pots, and the most important 
point will be the formation of plump ripe crowns 
with plenty of healthy roots under them for 
forcing np the flower-stems in the spring. In 
low, damp situations more favourable to the 
growth than to the ripening of the crowns 
medium-sized pots, which quickly become filled 
with roots, answer best, and when this stage has 
been reached it is a good plan to elevate them 
on planks, dwarf walls, or platforms 1 foot or 
more above the ground, where by full exposure 
to light and air, and careful attention to 
watering with water which has been for some 
time exposed to the influence of the atmosphere, 
the most backward plants may be made tit for 
storing away in cold pits by the end of October. 
Keep the general stock of plants free from weed* 
and runners, and move them occasionally to 
prevent the crock roots from striking into the 
ground; also keep a sharp lookout for worms, 
red spider, and mildew. The best remedy for 
the removal of the first is clear lime water, and 
the others may be destroyed by dipping the 
leaves of the plants in a mixture of sulphur and! 
water. If very early forcing is contemplated, 
the first batch of Vicomtesse Hfiricart de Thury 
and La Grasse Sucrf-e, which is equally early andl 
produces finer fruit, may now be taken to an 
open, airy situation where they can be partially- 
plunged for the better protection of the roots,, 
which should now be almost forcing the balls 
out of the small pots, as well as to economise 
time in watering. If not already done, get the 
surplus runners planted out on good ground 
conveniently situated for water. Mulch and 
encourage a vigorous growth, as these plants will 
give the earliest runners for next year’s forcing. 

Hardy fruits. —Now the season is quiteover 
let the old canes and all the weakly growths be 
cut away from Raspberries, particularly those on 
north or’shaded borders where this year’s growth 
has been very gross, and as yet we have not had 
very good weather for ripening up the wood. On 
warm, dry soils a good layer of rotten manure 
may be spread over the surface as soon as it 
is cleared of weeds, and next year’s crop will be 
mnch benefited by the operation; but in cold 
gardens the application of manure may be de¬ 
ferred until after the winter dressing, as no 
greater mistake can be made than that of forcing 
a vigorous growth late in the season, to be crippled! 
or killed by the first severe frost the following, 
winter. The same rule applies to Strawberries- 
after they have done bearing. In many gardens 
they are mnch longer neglected than they ought, 
to be, and the ground is robbed and shaded by 
useless runners, when by their timely removal to 
let in sun and air a degree of ripeness of roots 
and crown buds might be secured, which would 
enable the plants to pass through the sharpest 
winter, and produce an abundance of perfect 
flowers the following spring. If possible, all 
autumn planting should be finished by the middle 
of September, as the roots will then have time 
to lay hold of the soil, and the plants will pro¬ 
duce a few fine fruit the following season ; but 
if delayed after this time, the young plants will 
be quite as well in the nursery beds until the 
spring, and the ground intended for their recep¬ 
tion can have the benefit of a winter fallow. In 
the management of fruit trees generally, let the 
aim be the proper maturation of the current 
year’s wood by laying it in thinly against the 
wall, and by spurring all the weaker shoots back 
to within two or three eyes of the winter pruning 
buds, taking care to retain a plentiful and even 
spread of foliage over every part of the trees. 
Pyramidal Plums, Pears, and Apples, owing to 
the lightness or complete failure of the crop, are 
making a vigorous second growth, which must be 
persistently pinched and obecked for the twofold 
purpose of tilling up and lefting in light and air 


Aug. 25, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


277 


to ripen the fruit bads, and where practicable 
the remains of crops of vegetables must be cleared 
off the borders in order to expose them to the 
full action of the sun. Look over Peaches and 
Nectarines every morning, and gather all that are 
forward enough for removal to a dry, airy room, 
where they will ripen up and keep for some days 
after they are ready for use. The different kinds 
of early Pears, including Benrto d’Amanlis, Wil¬ 
liams's Bon Chretien, and J argonelle, will also be 
the better for removal, a few at a time, before 
they are quite ripe, when, by easing the trees, 
those left will become much larger, and they will 
extend the season until smaller but better 
flavoured fruit from pyramids and bushes comes 
into use. 

Vegetables. 

Immediately the ground is clear of Onions we 
set the line, and begin to plant Cabbage with¬ 
out any digging; when the young plants get 
fairly started, we give the soil a good stir up with 
a cultivator, which does a great deal of good. 
Lettuces, which we require in large quantities, we 
plant between the young Strawberry plantations, 
for both Strawberries and Lettuce enjoy a good, 
rich larder, and we make a point of pleasing 
them. Endive is now getting ready for putting 
in its proper place. Keep sowing winter Lettuces 
and Spinach, cut all the old flowering stems from 
Globe Artichokes, and if the autnmn is a fine 
one you will be rewarded with a second crop of 
smaller hut quite as good flavoured heads. 
There is no time when a good salad is relished 
more than just now. Our Paris Cos Lettuces 
growing between Celery ridges, manured with 
old Mushroom manure, are simply unique. They 
want no tying, are crisp and cool, and most 
refreshing. 

Continue the use of the hoe so long as there 
are weeds to be destroyed or crops that will be 
benefited by its use. Among9t the latter just 
now are plots of recently sown winter Spinach, 
Onions, Turnips, Carrots, Lettuces, Broccoli, 
and Kales. Sow again if necessary, and thin 
out as Boon as the plants can be handled. 
Winter Spinach, Turnips. Radishes, and Lettuces 
—timely thinning out of these is of the utmost 
importance, in order that the plants may 
grow up sturdily and be the better able to 
withstand the winter. Keep all Beans closely 
picked off as they become fit for use; the 
plants will then bear for a considerable time 
longer without exhaustion. If runners are cut 
back 2 feet or 3 feet, all the old pods being re¬ 
moved, and are given a good watering and 
mulching, they soon break into fresh lateral 
growth, and fruit as freely as at first. Give 
abundance of water to Celery prior to earthing 
up, and occasionally dust over the rows with soot 
and wood-ashes as a preventive against 
the attacks of fly. Harvested herbs dry and 
retain their colour best when hung np in a 
draughty, sunless shed. Parsley to stand the 
winter should be given plenty of space and the 
driest position in the garden. Keep Tomatoes 
to single stems and the foliage thin. Both ridge 
Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows mildew 
badly, and to fcheck it we find it necessary to 
break off the worst leaves and to give abundant 
supplies of water. Examine them daily to out 
all fruit as ready. 


WORK Hi THE TOWN GARDEN. 
Continue to maintain a condition of neatness 
in all parts of the garden ; as the autumn ad¬ 
vances this becomes more and more important, 
so that the late bloom may be made the most of 
by being viewed under the most favourable con¬ 
ditions. 

Take cuttings, as fast as they can he ob¬ 
tained, of all the bedding plants worth pro¬ 
pagating. At the same time, it is a bad plan 
to cut the plants in the beds to such an 
extent as to mar the effect in the slightest; so 
only take off such sheots or branches as can well 
be spared or are better away. In a good 
garden there should be a sufficient stock of all 
plants reserved in some out of the way place 
to propagate from, but in most places of only 
moderate size there is not room for everything, 
>0 we must do the best we cab. 

Dahlias should now be coming into nice 
bloom ; keep them well watered and carefully 
staked and tied, as they are easily broken by 
wind. Earwigs, which aie-yery destructive to 
both these and Chrysfinthemiuns, rhqulri >be 


trapped by placing a little dry hay or Moss in 
the bottom of a small flower-pot and inverting 
this on the top of the main stake of each plant. 
Every morning turn out and destroy the live 
contents. Asters are also coming on nicely now; 
keep them free from weeds and the ground well 
stirred and watered in dry weather. A good 
mulching of half-rotten manure greatly assists 
Asters when coming into bloom, particularly if 
they have made much root very near the surface, 
as is usually the case. 

Michaelmas Daisies now need attention in the 
way of staking and tying, as well as giving 
copious supplies of water and liqnid manure if 
fine heads of bloom are desired. These are 
among the best of antnmn-flowering town plants, 
and should have a place in every garden. 

In the greenhouse, maturation of the wood 
should be now more thought of than the forma¬ 
tion of fresh growths. To this end admit air 
freely night and day in all fairly good weather, 
and allow the sun to act upon the plants more 
freely than heretofore. Primulas should be 
making a short stocky growth in their flowering 
pots in a cool airy house or frame; a little sun, 
when not too strong, will now be beneficial to 
these. 

Keep all flower buds picked off Zonal Gera¬ 
niums for winter flowering, and water no more 
than to keep them fresh. B. 0. R. 


GALVANISED IRON STAKES. 

These are recommended for supporting Vines, 
Hops, fruit and other standard trees, Hollyhocks, 
Roses, Dahlias, and also for the construction of 
espaliers and archways, offering as they do no 
harbour for insects. Although their first cost is 
more than for wood, they will prove in time to 



be more economical, as they do not require any 
repairs, and are in fact imperishable, while wood 
rots away, and in that state harbours all kinds 
of insects. In using these stakes for espaliers 
they are provided with rings to put wire through; 
and for archways there is a strong loop at the 
top of the stake, to which the roofing wire is 
fastened. The foot is of cast iron, of conical 
form, easy to drive into the ground, and not 
liable to rust. They may be had in lengths 
3 feet 3 inches to 8 feet, and they are by no 
means dear. For the annexed illustration we are 
indebted to Mr. F. Martin, Granville Road, 
Walthamstow. 


Cottage gardens.— How often in country 
districts one may see cottage gardens the plants 
in which are in a state of robust health, while in 
the villa gardens in the same neighbourhood 
things do not thrive in anything like the same 
manner I There are a few lessons to be derived 
from these thriving cottage garden beds and 
borders which may be useful to those more for¬ 
tunately situated than their possessors. When 
I see a particularly thriving cottage garden, I 
always notice there are in it neither shrubs nor 
trees, and especially no evergreens. It is nothing 
uncommon to see two neighbouring garden plots 
one filled with beautiful flowers, the other with 


starving plants, the only noticeable difference 
being that the garden where everything does badly 
is surrounded by evergreen hedges and stocked 
with evergTeeen shrubs, while the garden where 
everything succeeds has no shrubs but Roses, 
Flowering Currants, deciduous climbers, and fruit 
bashes, and the fences are light, open palings. 
In thriving cottage gardens I notice the beds 
are never raked, the ground between the plants 
is quite lumpy and rough. This enables the 
atmosphere to act on nearly three times the 
surface of soil it can reach in a smooth bed. 
The manure, too, is always applied without stint, 
and is only roughly forked in. The cottager is 
great at vegetables, and his flower borders 
generally edge his vegetable beds, consequently 
his Roses and other strong-growing plants can 
root into the vegetable plots, if they lack 
nourishment. The cottager’s flowers never lack 
water, and that water is often taken from a 
ditch or pond, where it is strongly impregnated 
with sewage. Lastly, the cottager never struggles 
to grow things he has found fail, but divides 
and transplants those things he has found suc¬ 
ceed with him and his neighbours.—J. D. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

THE OLD WHITE LILY INDOORS. 
Where white flowers are in request early in 
the spring, this Lily (Lilium candidum), when 
forced, is invaluable. September is the proper 
month in which to have it potted preparatory 
for forcing. The word forcing, as ordinarily, 
understood, is indeed hardly applicable to the 
treatment which it requires. It is, therefore, 
necessary to say that it will not bear hard 
forcing; from the time it is potted nnt.il it comes 
into flower it requires very careful treatment, 
but such as will neither tax the skill nor the 
appliances of the cultivator. For convenience 
sake I shall assume that there is plenty of this 
Lily in the borders which may be had for the 
lifting. In that case dig them up carefully, pre- 
serveall theoldroots, and potthem at once; choose 
only the largest and soundest bulbs, put four in 
an 8-inch pot or six in a 10-inch pot; any kind 
of soil will suit them if moderately heavy and 
rich, because they require a fairly good soil to 
maintain a vigorous growth. As soon as they are 
potted and have had a good watering place the 
pots in the shade of a wall or fence and give water 
as often as they require it. In this position they 
may remain until the end of October, when they 
must be placed under cover; a cold pit or 
frame or any other structure will answer until 
the end of January, provided they are just 
kept secure from frostand kept growing. Success 
depends a great deal upon the treatment which 
they receive at this time. The main object is 
to get the pots full of roots, but they will not 
be thick if exposed to the varying influences of 
an outside temperature, and allowed to suffer 
from the want of water. The forcing, as it may 
be called, is a ticklish piece of business, and all 
the more so if the bulbs have not been properly 
prepared. It is useless to hurry them. The be¬ 
ginning of February is quite early enough to 
begin forcing, and then they ought not to be 
exposed to a higher temperature than 45° by 
night and 50° by day. If the night tempera¬ 
ture runs down to 35°, it will be better for 
them than if it were 10° higher continuously. 
A light position and a moderate amount of air 
they must have, or the flower stems will be very 
weak and the individual flowers small. To pre¬ 
vent them from becoming drawn, they should 
be placed on inverted pots, in order to get them 
as near the glass as possible. As red spider is 
liable to attack them, they should be syringed 
night and morning, and the flower-stems should 
be neatly staked as they increase in height. The 
common Tiger Lily will thrive under the same 
treatment, but it does not flower so early by ten 
days or a fortnight, although it grows stronger 
and produces more flowers than the white Lily. 

J. C. C. 

Seedling Gloxinias.— A beautiful gather¬ 
ing of Gloxinias has been sent us by Mr. 
Ravenscroft, Granville Nursery, Lewisham, who 
states that they are all seedlings of his own 
saving, and at the present time he has a 40-feet 
house entirely filled on one side with them, 
which must indeed be a fine sight. The flowers 
sent are uncommonly fine, large, and well 
formed; most of them are of the erect-flowered 





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Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Acg. 25, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


2/1* 


good crops have been the result. Another diffi¬ 
culty that deters amateurs from planting Vines 
is the aspect ot the house. Only one faciDg 
south or nearly so is usually considered indis¬ 
pensable, yet when by accident, or even by those 
who disregard all orthodox rules, Vines have 
been planted in houses with a north aspect, good 
Grapes of high colour have been produced. 

The rakge or temperature that is generally 
advocated for Grape culture iB itself enough to 
deter any one from commencing it, yet the 
difficulties vanish upon closer acquaintance with 
the simple wants of the Vine. A pure atmosphere, 
snch as only ample ventilation can secure, and 
cleanliness of the structure in which they are 
growing, is of the first importance. Far more than 
any hard and fast rales as to a few degrees 
higher or lower, the following simple rules will 
be fonnd safe and reliable, viz., give air early 
before the sun strikes on the roof enough to 
raise the temperature much, as it is when the 
leaves and berries are damp with dew that 
danger from scalding of berries, foliage, Ac, 
occurs. From May until October, when the 
Grapes are ripe, there should always be air left 
on the top of the house. A gentle circulation of 
air night and day is the best antidote to many of 
the ills the Vine is heir too, a close, stagnant 
atmosphere being sure to produce a crop of ill 
effects, no matter how well other details may be 
arranged. As regards regulating the temperature, 
let it rise and fall with the outside range; in hot 
weather push on growth vigorously by econo¬ 
mising sunheat, and in dull, cold weather do not 
shut up too closely, but let the temperature 
range low until brighter days return. Ofvarieties, 
only plant such as are sure to succeed, viz, 
Black Hamburgh, Foster's Seedling, Buckland 
Sweetwater, and similar sorts, as they are all 
that can be desired when well ripened, and far 
better than sorts that are only suited for those 
with costly appliances to bring them to per¬ 
fection. A glass roof might, in many cases, be 
substituted for slates or tiles, and good crops of 
Grapes gathered from buildings that were never 
designed for fruit culture without in the least 
detracting from their usefulness in other respects. 
(iosport. James Groom. 


Alpine Btrawberrlea— r have been a 
grower of alpine Strawberries for a good many 
years, but I never had such a crop as we bad 
last year all through the hot weather and up tid 
the autumn. The bed in question had been 
planted on a piece of close damp land, where 
many years ago, during some alterations, an old 
pond had been filled in. Though a good deal 
had been done for its amelioration, it itill 
remains damp and heavy. But it has long 
grown abundant crops of fine Raspberries, and 
the alpine Strawberry bed, bidding fair to be 
equally useful, has been extended. If it had 
been possible to keep an account of our daily 
gatherings over a very long period last year, I 
have no doubt the result would have been far in 
advance of those obtained from any other variety. 
I have got into the habit latterly of leaving the 
alpines for several years on this cool damp land, 
and think we get an advantage in bulk of crop 
from it. We mulch heavily in autumn, and only 
stir the surface so far as is necessary to keep 
down weeds. The ground is thoroughly pre¬ 
pared before planting, and 1 prefer planting in 
August, though beds planted in March generally 
do pretty well if well mulched directly after 
planting, and watered if nocessary. Generally, 
Strawberries run too much to leaf, and the 
crowns fail to ripen if planted on low, damp 
land ; the blossomB also suffer more from spring 
frosts. But I find the alpines are an exception ; 
and, even if the early blossoms get a check from 
frost, others soon start away, and we often cut 
off the early blossoms spared by the frost to 
induce late fruiting. There are two periods 
when the Strawberry seems to require an 
abundant supply of moisture, if the plants are 
rrowing on a porous site, viz., when the blossoms 
are setting and the young fruit swelling, and 
•gain when making growth. After the fruit is 
gathered, heavy mulchings of manure are a great 
help, especially on porous land ; they are, in fact, 
Indispensable. Firm ground is also requisite, 
though it should not be the firmness which is the 
tatural outcome of lying unworked. I have 
given up raising alpine Strawberries from seeds, 
though seedlings answer vpry well: I prefer 
planting runners, or di^ding^t^o ujj 


whichever is at the time most convenient. The 
Red Alpine is most appreciated here.—H. E. 

10125.— Unfruitful Pear trees — Your 
trees are unfruitful owing to their being over 
pruned without a corresponding pruning of the 
roots. Ordinary garden soil is usually too rich 
for Pear trees. You must dig a trench round 
your trees in November. If the trees are small, 
2 feet from the stem will be near enough ; larger 
trees, 3 feet or 4 feet will be necessary. Dig 
deep enough to enable you to work under the 
ball of roots with a spade, and all roots that run 
deep into the ground should be cut through; 
after this is done, fill in the soil again. Some 
fresh loam from a field or pasture is best to place 


becomes a bagful of nauseous fluid. Grapes that 
ripen out-of-doors never shank ; this would lead 
us to the belief that shanking is caused by the 
roots and branches not working in harmony 
together, and it is so. The roots are either too 
dry or in a cold medium, while the fruit is being 
forced. As you have given your Grape Vines in 
the late house a good watering, yon have done 
all you can to prevent or mitigate the evil— 
J. D. E. 

10139.— Strawberries intended to fruit in 
pots, but failed to do so, would do very well if 
planted out, but if your letter had come a month 
earlier, I would have advised taking runners 
from good fruiting plants out-of-doors. The 



Large-flowered Mock Orange(Ph'lndelphus graudi florin). Klowera white. 


round the roots. No manure should be added 
Jo it.—J. D. E. 

10126.— Mildew on Vines- Y our Vines 
must be very bad indeed if sulphur will not kill 
the mildew. You ought to have watched for 
the first appearance of the disease and painted 
the hot-water pipes with flowers of snlphur 
mixed in water to the consistency of thin paint. 
This will not only destroy mildew, but also red- 
spider if it is taken in time.—J. D. E. 

10131.— G-rapea shrivel ling— If Grapes 
shrivel and go sour when they are colouring, the 
cause is shanking, that is, the foot-stalks of the 
berries shrivel before the grapes are ripe; of 
course, the supply of sap is cut off, and the fruit 


young plants, when layered about the middle of 
July, are much the best to make new plantations. 
—J. D. F,. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

MOCK ORANGES OR SYBINGA8. 
(FHILADELPHUB ) 

These rank among the most effective and 
beautiful of all perfectly hardy and deciduous- 
leaved flowering shrubs. All of them have 
white or cream-coloured highly fragTant 
flowers, and they are all very similar in foliage ; 
hence, a selection of three or four species or 
varieties is sufficient for all purposes except 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 








280 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Aug. 25, 1883. 


•where the object is to form a collection. The 
principal thing to observe in selecting varieties 
for general planting in mixed shrubberies is 
their season of flowering. For instance, at the 
end of June the earlier-flowering ones are over, 
and the later ones just coming into bloom. 
The earliest is Philadelphus coronarius, which, 
as a rule, begins to flower about the middle of 
May. For gardening purposes it is one of the 
species that we should recommend, because it is 
the first in bloom. The flowers, though much 
larger than those of the Orange, have a gene¬ 
ral resemblance to them, and they are also very 
odoriferous, without possessing the delicate per¬ 
fume of the Orange blossom; indeed, their odour 
is too powerful for them to be employed exten¬ 
sively in bouquets, though agreeable to most 
people in the open air. There is a double- 
flowered variety which, in our opinion, is not 
superior, if even equal, to the common single 
kind. To alternate with F. coronarius, a pretty 
and very distinct species or variety, P. Satsumi, 
sometimes called P. chinensis, may be selected. 
It flowers almost as early and quite as profusely 
as P. coronarius, and it is likewise sweet- 
scented. Another fine form is P. tomentosus. 
It comes into bloom early in June, and bushes 
of it were literally covered with clusters of 
large flowers about a fortnight ago in the neigh¬ 
bourhood of London. F. grandiflorus is a tall- 
growing shrub, from 8 feet to 12 feet high, with 
irregularly-toothed leaves and fragrant flowers, 
nearly double the size of those of P. coronarius, 
and, as already mentioned, it does not begin 
flowering until the latter is nearly or quite over. 
These shrubs succeed in almost any soil and 
situation, but they appear to bloom most 
abundantly on a poor, light soil. They are also 
exceedingly ornamental, particularly the early- 
flowering ones, for a wall, sunny aspect, trellis, 
or arbour. Where only a small number is re¬ 
quired, P. coronarius, P. Satsurai, and T. grandi¬ 
florus may be selected. All the varieties bearing 
the names included under P. grandiflorus are 
good. The Mock Oranges are not very rapid, 
coarse-growing shrubs, and may easily be kept 
within reasonable compass by the judicious use 
of the pruning knife. But care should be 
exercised in the use of it, whether for the pur¬ 
pose of giving them a comely shape or reducing 
their size. The main branches of a bush may be 
cutaway to the base or shortened; and it should 
be remembered, that it is the short lateral 
branchlets which bear the flowers. Mock 
Oranges are grown largely in glasshouses by 
some florists for supplying cut flowers in early 
spring. Our drawing was prepared from a fine 
specimen sent by Mr. J. Stevens, Grasmere, 
By fleet. 

Ivy under trees.—On lawns hare ground under trees 
is oblectiooahle, and questions are frequently asked as to 
what is the best thing to plant in such positions. AtKew 
there are mauy wide-spreading trees under which com¬ 
mon Ivy forms a dense carpet of beautiful green whore at 
one time there was nothing but bare earth.—C. 


VEGETABLES. 


AUTUMN SOWN ONIONS. 

This crop may be sown from the second week 
in August till the end of September, according to 
locality. If sown earlier than the middle of 
August, the crop is often of inferior quality, 
owing to the greater part running to seed. For 
several years I have made two sowings, the first 
some time in the third week of August, and 
another from the 15th to the 20th of September. 
I select a piece of ground which lies open and 
free from the shade of trees, and which is of a 
good holding character; if too light and sandy, 
one cannot expect a crop of fine bnlbs without 
being well fed. The ground should be trenched 
or deeply dug after being well dressed with 
rotten farmyard manure, or if at hand some 
manure from the fowl-house or the pigeon loft, 
which will be found to produce the heaviest crop 
of bulbs, but care must be taken in employing 
pigeon manure not to use too heavy a dressing 
at one time, or the young roots of the plants will 
suffer. Pig-sty manure, too, will be found to 
be one of the best for Onions. 

After spreading the manure sow one pound of 
salt to the square yard, being careful to scatter 
it evenly over the ground. This will destroy the 
eggs of the Onion maggot, often so destructive 
to Onion crops. If at hand, a good dressing of 
wood ashes will also be found beneficial, 
spreading them ov^r fhe ground aftkr being dug, 
and raking them Lnto Aft sortaM fcT the bed 


before sowing the seeds. After raking, tread the 
whole firmly with the feet. Rake again finely, 
when the seeds may either be sown in drillB or 
on beds broadcast. If in rows, draw the drills 
from 9 inches to 12 inches apart and 1 inch deep. 
After sowing cover with the feet, or they may be 
covered in lightly with a rake, treading the 
ground firmly. If in beds, mark them out 
5 feet wide, leaving alleys 1 foot wide. After 
sowing rake the seed well into the ground, when 
a little of the soil from the alley may be spread 
over the beds, treading them firmly with the 
feet; then rake fine, stretch the garden line, and 
cut the edges of the beds with a spade, so that 
they may have a finished appearance. The crop 
will require but little attention, except keeping 
it free from weeds until the plants require 
thinning in spring, which may be done all at one 
time, or as required for use. 

Where a larger breadth of Onions is required 
than that sown in the autumn, a piece of ground 
may either be trenched or deeply dug, manuring 
it heavily with some well decayed rotten manure. 
As early in February as the weather will permit 
and the ground is dry enough to rake to a fine 
mould, rake and tread firmly. Draw plants from 
the autumn-sown crops, and plant them upon the 
prepared piece of ground in rows 9 inches from 
row to row and 6 inches plant from plant. Keep 
the ground free from weeds by frequent hoeings, 
and water freely during dry weather. If large 
Onions are required for exhibition they will 
require to be well fed with liquid or some 
artificial manure, when some of the varieties may 
be grown to a very large size. The crop will be 
fit to harvest some time in July, but that will 
depend a good deal upon the earliness or lateness 
of the season. 

As to varieties, the following will yield good 
crops of first-rate quality, viz., Giant White 
Tripoli, a fine Onion, and one of the best for 
exhibition; Giant Rocca,one of the hardiest and 
best Onions in cultivation, an especial favourite 
with exhibitors; Red Genoa, one of the most 
useful autumn varieties, being of exceedingly 
quick growth and a good late keeper; and 
Carter’s Golden Globe Tripoli, which grows to a 
great size, is excellent in flavour, suitable either 
for autumn or spring sowing. W. C. 


10171.— Ground for Parsnips— Parsnips 
like a rich, deep soil. We presume that you 
intend to sow the seeds on garden ground that 
has been well worked in previous years. As it 
has not lately been manured, we would dig or 
trench it over a foot deep, putting a good dres¬ 
sing of farmyard manure at that depth. If the 
soil is well broken up above the manure, the 
roots will penetrate the ground to it, and none 
of them well be forked. On shallow ground, 
with the manure near the surface, forked speci¬ 
mens would be the rule.—J. D. E. 

101J8—Exhibition Potatoes.—I have tried the 
following sorts, and found them very successful:—Porter’s 
Excelsior, Jackson’s White Kidney, Early King, Rector 
of Woodstock, Queen of the Valley, Carter's Eight 
Weeks. Adirondack, White Emperor, Reading Russett, 
Wiltshire Snowflake, Mr. Bresee, Early Border, Magnum 
Bonum.—G. F. W. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

10094. — Management of small con¬ 
servatory.—It depends upon the age of your Pas- 
eion Flower whether it will bloom this season 
or not, some do not bloom until three years 
old. As it is growing strongly, a little manure 
water, or stimulant of some kind, will be good. 
Procure an old pail and half fill it with horse 
droppings, and two or three handfuls of soot at 
the bottom. Fill up with water, and allow it to 
stand some time; stir it up, and take out as you 
require it, running it through a small tin strainer 
into an old jar or other receptacle; you then add 
water to make it weak, in which state it should 
always be given to plants at first. When large 
plants are in small pots they will take it 
stronger; if pale in colour it is weak, if dark in 
colour, strong. This is as good as anything you 
can use. Be careful with guano as it is very 
powerful, and plants can take little of it at a 
time, and it requires some experience to make 
plants bloom profusely by the aid of stimulating 
foods. Train the Passion Flower neatly along 
the rafters, and repot the Begonia at once in a 
larger pot, using sandy loam and leaf-mould. 


As winter approashes, the stem and leaves will 
decay, when you stop watering, and put the pot 
in a sunny spot to ripen off the bulb. Any¬ 
place out of the reach of frost will do to 
keep It through the winter. When it begins 
to shoot up again in spring, shake it out 
and repot it again, when it will bloom as well 
as ever. Read the advice given every week in 
this journal under the heading of “ Work in the 
Town Garden."—J. T. F. 

10122— Erecting Strawberry house.— 
A span-roofed house is best for the purpose of 
forcing. It is not necessary to have bottom 
heat, but as yon wish to have fruit very early- 
yon must have sufficient hot water piping to give 
a temperature of 60° as a minimum in very cold 
weather. A span-roofed house 12 feet wide, with 
a path down the centre and side stages, would 
require four rows of 4-inch pipes. As you seem to 
have had no experience whatever in growing 
Strawberries, do not attempt to obtain ripe fruit 
by Christmas. The plants to produce the earliest 
fruit ought now to be potted in 6-inch potg, 
and the best variety is Black Prince. The plantB 
should stand out in the open ground, well exposed 
to the sun, until the end of October. Place them 
in the house then, and keep rather dry at the 
roots until the end of November, when you may 
begin to force with a temperature of 50° at night. 
The fruit will be ripe about the end of February, 
and if you are successful in getting good fruit 
at that time be thankful, and try a few weeks 
earlier the next season. Do not attem pt to plant 
out, but grow the plants in pots near the glass. 
You must draw a small camel-hair brush ever 
the blossoms once a day when they are in flower. 
Keen's Seedling is the best variety to succeed 
Black Prince, followed by President and Sir 
Joseph Paxton.—J. D. E. 

10119— Woodwardla radioana.— This 
Fern does not produce many fronds in a season, 
and as they go brown and shrivel up soon after 
attaininganageof twelve months or thereabouts, 
it is very rarely that plants are to be found with 
even ten or a dozen healthy fronds, particularly 
large ones. The fronds which are deformed on 
“ W. F.’s ” plant may be so from not having had 
sufficient room to develop when young, or from 
beinginjured by something in their young state, 
or possibly from the soil in which the plant is 
growing being exhausted, i.e., if they are the 
last produced. The Selaginella growing so 
thickly on the surface will not do much harm, 
but the proper way to water the plant is by 
pouring the water in the top of the pot in the 
usual way, care being taken that the supply 
never falls short. When Ferns are allowed to 
staud in water, the soil is certain to be speedily 
turned sour to the injury of the plant, besides 
which there is great danger of the roots rotting. 
Ferns like abundance of water, especially in 
their growing season, but they must have good 
drainage also, that the surplus water may pass 
away and the air by degrees get through the 
soil down to the roots.— Febn. 

10116.— Strawberry and Onion cul¬ 
ture.—There is no easier crop to grow than 
Strawberries ; but they ought to be planted at 
the right time and in the right way. “H. W.” 
is not likely ta obtain fruit from his plants 
that have produced nothing but leaves this year. 
Nature herself gives the best directions as to 
the time of planting. She plants her runners 
early in July, or even earlier than that, and those 
runners, if they have plenty of room, will pro¬ 
duce better fruit than their parents. The best 
way to manage Strawberries is this. Layer the 
runners in-small pots as soon as they can be ob¬ 
tained, and as soon as they are well rooted 
sever them from the parent plants. In a week 
they are ready for planting out, and they must 
be planted in deep, well manured soil. Such 
plants will give better fruit the following season 
than they will afterwards. I would advise your 
correspondent to prepare a fresh piece of ground, 
and plant it at once with young plants from this 
season's runners. Probably the Onions were 
destroyed by the smalt white maggot, which is 
very destructive some seasons. We lost all our 
crop this season by sowing on new ground that 
had been recently trenched up.—J. D. E. 

10036.— Spot on Pelargoniums. — This 
is sometimes—indeed very often — caused by 
the plants being waterlogged; that is the drain¬ 
age is stopped, and the water becomes sour at the 
bottom of the pots. It may also be caused by 
insufficient ventilation in the house. We hare 



Acg. 2.5, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


281 


grown quantities of the finest Pelargoniums 
during the last quarter of a ceRtury, and never 
had one attacked by this disease. We drain the 
pots well, and over the drainage place some very 
fibrous turf. The plants are then potted in good 
rotted turfy loam, with a little leaf-mould and 
rotten manure added to it; some sharp sand and 
charcoal broken up keeps the compost open and 
sweet. The Pelargoniums also like to be placed 
near the glass, and plenty of fresh air should be 
admitted. If possible, rain water only should 
be used in watering.—J. D. E. 

10121.—Wintering hardy plants—“A 
Lover of Flowers ” will have no difficulty in 
wintering the hardy plants named in cold frames. 
They ought now to be planted in the boxes 
4 inches or 5 inches apart at least. The lights 
should be removed from the frames night and 
day at present, and they should only be placed 
over the plants in winter when it is very wet or 
very frosty. Fuchsias and Geraniums will not 
succeed well in a cold frame during winter, 
especially as the frames get no sun. In fine 
weather admit air freely, and use a paraffin or 
other lamp to keep out frosts ; double mats 
ought also to be used, to aid in keeping the leaves 
of the plants dry.—J. D. E. 

10156.—Failure of Apple trees.—Tour 
trees are affected with canker. The Cellini 
Pippin is more apt to be injured by this than 
some others. The ground ought to have been 
trenched 18 inches or 2 feet deep before the 
trees were planted, and it would also be advis¬ 
able to drain it. That could be done now, and 
if you did not trench the ground before planting, 
a portion of it may be done in November or 
December, carefully lifting the trees and re¬ 
planting them as the work proceeds. It would 
be best to lift a portion only, in order to watch 
the result; those that you do not lift and re¬ 
plant ought to be root-pruned. The cause of 
the canker is the roots penetrating into unsuit¬ 
able subsoil. They will do this and canker in 
less than five years.—J. D. E. 

10173. — Carnations, Pansies, &o. — 
these, as well as Potentillas, are propagated by 
division in autumn or spring. They may also 
be raised from seeds sown when they are ripe or 
in spring. Pinks may be propagated by division, 
but it is a clumsy method, and does not give 
good results. The best way is to take off the 
small side growths—««pipings ” they are termed. 
They should be dibbled in 2 inches or 3 inches 
apart in light soil in a shady place, and be 
covered with a hand-light. Pansies delight in 
weak cow-manure water, but it should only be 
applied when the plants need it. The ground 
for Carnations should be trenched 18 inches 
deep now or in the autumn. Manure it well, 
and about the end of February plant out the 
Carnations.—J. D. E. 

10157. — Bad-flavoured Peaches. — It 
seems that some of the Peaches from your Peach- 
house were badly flavoured, but all the varieties 
were not so. In that case, the watering or 
other details of culture, could have nothing to do 
with it. It must, therefore, be owing' to some 
characteristic in the variety. Princess of Wales 
i s always a large, good-looking fruit, but it is 
not always of good flavour. The Alexander, 
with split stones, would not be good; such fruit 
seldom ripens well. The split stones are cer¬ 
tainly caused by imperfect impregnation. You 
should dust the pistils of the flowers of Alex¬ 
ander with the pollen of Early York or Royal 
George.—J. D. E. 

10160.—Grapes cracking—The variety 
Chasselas Musquc is one of the best flavoured of 
Grapes, but it has such a great tendency to 
crack that most people have given up its culture. 
Your only remedy is to check the flow of sap to 
the berries. This can be done by keeping the 
Vine dry at the roots, and the atmosphere dry, 
but such treatment would not suit the Black 
Hambnrgh in the early stages of its ripening. 
You had better cut a notch half through each 
lateral branch under the bunch, it Ls the 
quickest way in your case, and it checks the flow 
of sap immediately.—J. D. E. 

10161.—Destroying 1 slugs.—If yon get 
some soot and scatter it thickly over the surface 
of the ground about 6 p.m., it will destroy the 
rings and benefit the plants. It may be necessary 
to do it about three times'bn^uccessive evlnings, 
if the pest-3 are numerofcj^^: ng In) |^ly 


slaked lime during the winter months is a good 
thing to destroy all such marauders.—J. D. E. 

10129.—Vegetable refuse, after it has 
been laid up in a heap to rot, makes excellent 
manure, but if it is dug in during the summer 
months it is apt to breed maggots in the ground. 
The best way is to work it into the ground 
when being trenched. It ought to be placed 
about 6 inches below the surface.—J. D. K. 

10181. — Planting hardy flowers. — 
Phloxes, Pyrethrum8 and Delphiniums may be 
planted in autumn or spring. Hollyhocks and 
Pentstemons should be wintered in cold frames 
and be planted out in the spring. If you want 
to grow them well trench the ground deep, and 
do not be sparing of rich manure.—J. D. E. 

10141—Pots for Lilies.—As a general rule, one bulb 
to a seven-inch pot, leaving room to All up with compost 
when the surface roots appear, and see p 249, August 4, 
for complete instructions in cultivating these in pots.— 
J, T. F. 


Night flowering Tobacco.—I have a plant of 
this (Nicotians affinls) in my garden full of buds, some of 
which open every evening and close again In the morn¬ 
ing. Ought it to bloom during daytime ? The exterior of 
the flowers is quite brown. Is that the proper colour for 
them?—O. S. M. [The plant in question is night glower¬ 
ing only. The dull colour on the outside of the flowers is 
not unusual. ] 

Lachenalia tricolor.—What kind of plant is 
this ? I have several bulbs in a pot in a greenhouse : are 
they indoor or outdoor plants, and what treatment should 
they receive? They are just starting.—R. [A plant be¬ 
longing to the Lily family , bearing erect spikes of 
flowers in spring, ll requires the treatment of ordinary 
greenhouse plants.] 

Propagating Solomon’s Seal.— Is Solomon’s 
Seal a perennial plant? How is it raised? If from seed, 
where can I obtain it and when should I sow?—F. M. ft. 
[Propagated usually by division of the creeping stems. 
It may be also raised from seeds,which should be sown as 
soon as ripe in the open border .] 

Evergreen climber.—Will you name a hardy ever¬ 
green climber lor a wall in north Lancashire?— Lan¬ 
cashire Lad. [Nothing is better than a good sort of Ivy, 
such as the Irish and dentata, or some of the smaller- 
leaved varieties.] 

Seedling Pansies.— Newport. — The flowers you 
sent arrived all withered. If you send some in a tin box 
properly packed, so that they arrive at our office fresh, 
we will give our opinion of them. 

Mother of Thousands.—What is the botanical 
name of the plant commonly known under this name ? 
Its leaves are similar to the Cyclamen.—G. F. Filby. 
[Saxifraga garmentosa. ] 

Transplanting Jessamine.—What is the proper 
time to remove white Jessamine trees ?— Constant 
1 Reader. [September or April.] 

Green-edged Petunias.—J. Selman.— Thanks for 
flowers, which are singular, but not suitable for the pur¬ 
pose you mention. 

Large Pea.—J. Pearman.—It you will send us a pod 
or two of the Pea in question, and tell us the height it 
grows, we will endeavour to get the name for you. 

Ivies.— W. P. Wallace. — All kinds of Ivies are propa-, 
gated, as a rule, by cuttings and grafts. You ought to 
oe able to get the sort you want at au y good nursery. 

Petunia.— H. 5.—Not uncommon, but a pretty sort 
well worth perpetuating. 

Osier growing.— A. B. C.—Apply to Mr. Scaling, 
Basford, Notts. 

Books.—IT. T. T. — Louden's “Encyclopedia of 
Plants,”or Johnston's “ Gardeners’ Dictionary.” 

Names Of plants.— Constant. Reader. — Deutzia 

scabra fl.-pi.- H. F. C.—Cephalaria tatarica.- A. 

M .—Apparently a very pretty variety of Mimulus.- 

R. H. —1, Geranium eriostemon (purple); 2, G. Endressi 
(pink); 3, G. sanguineum lancastriense ; 4, G. sanguineum. 

- Hibiscus. — Salpiglossis variabilis.- Devonia. — 

Orchis maculata.- W. Raile.— Phytolacca decandra 

(Virginian Poke Weed).- Mrs. Kerr .—Species of Vacci- 

nium, probably corymbosum- J. Stonily.—1, Variety 

of Athyrium Filix-fcomlna ; 2, Lastrea Filix-mas cristata 

- A. II. C .—Dictamnus Fraxinella albus.- J. R — 

Cassinia fulvida (Diplopaphus chrysophyllus).- Pen 

arid Ink.— Saxifraga ceratophylla.- Mrs. Brook.— 

Apparently a Hickory (Jaryai, but we cannot name the 

species from leaves only.- J. Filton. — Thalictrum 

aquilegifolium. — Willows.— I, Ltthospermum purpureum 

coeruleum ;2, 3, not In a condition tonamo correctly.- 

J. Briggs.— Oaultheria Shailon.- Bill.— We do not name 

varieties of Roses.- J . Milne .—Plapt from Afghanistan 

is Androsace rotundifolia, new and very rare.- Anon. 

—Two Bmall sprays of shrubs. 1, Haleaia tetraptera ; 2, 
Vaecinlum corymbosum.- J. Bishop.—I, Cannot name; 

2, Gasteria verrucosa; 3, Begonia sanguinea ; 4, Polygala 

Dalmai8iana- W. T. R. —Spinealanceolata.— C. Vear. 

—Santolina incana.- F. Buxton.— Lonicera Ledebourt 

- J. J. Finchette.—l , Species of Araaranthua, two 

small to name; 2, Mesembryanthemum cordifolium 
variegatum; 3, Alternanthera paronychioides. Please 

send better specimens next time.- Ignoramus. — 1 , 

Cuphea platycentra ; 2, Tradcscantia repens; 3, Stachys 

lanata; 4, Eccremocarpus scaber.- M. Montgomery. 

—1, Campanula urttcrcfolia alba; 2, Cephalaria tatarica; 

3, Calamintha ; 4, Veronica virginica.—— J. B. Leigh.— 

It is impossible to tell the name of the South African 

plant without seeing flowers.- Grundy.— 1 , Trades- 

cantia virginica; 2, Eryngium alpinum ; 3, Sedum oppo- 

sitifolium ; 4, Gnaphalium margaritaceum.- R. Haux- 

well.— Corn Flower, or Com Cockle (various colours); 
Centaurea Cyanus—hardy annual raised from seed.- 


J. R. J5.—Lllium chalcedonicum (scarlet Martagon).- 

M. Brenan.— 1, Campanula persicifolia coronata; 2, 
Primula rosea ; 3, Cannot name ; send better specimen. 
C. J., Munster.— 1, Funkia Sieboldi ; 2, Gentiana 

asclepiadea ; 8, Clematis integrifolia.- Anon.— Hiera- 

cium aurautiacum.- S. H. £.—Campanula persici¬ 
folia alba.- H. J. C.—Vitis humulifolia variegata. 


QUERIES. 

Buies for Correspondents.— AU communica¬ 
tions for insertion should oe clearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. 
Letters relating to business to the Publisher. The name 
and address of the sender is required , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the Query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day of publication , it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

Naming plants.— Four plant*,fruits, or flowers only 
can be named at one time, and this only when good 
specimens are tent. We do not undertake to name 
varieties qf florists' flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
specialist who has the means of comparison at hand. Any 
com munication respecting plants or flowers sent to name 
should always accompany the parcel. 

10187.—Blighted Roses—The soil here ls on chalk, 
and very stony. \\'e have a quantity of Roses, which 
have bloomed profusely this season, and are still making 
a fair show, but the trees are very much blighted. It 
cornea first as a small Orange-coloured speck on the leaves 
and gradually turns black. The leaves turn yellow, and 
eventually drop, and some of the trees have no leaf, only 
bloom, but of fair quality. They are also smothered 
with mildew, which appears very prevalent in this neigh¬ 
bourhood. Can anyone suggest a reason for the same 
also what would be the best preventive or cure? I 
think it ls the soil, which appears to go sour, although It 
has been well cultivated.— Entophyte. 

10188.—Sage and Thyme.—I sowed some Thyme 
and Sage seed in April. The Sage came up very well, hut 
the Thyme rather thinly, so I transplanted some of the 
Sage, but - not the Thyme. Was it right to transplant 
the Sage at that time, and if so, is it now ready to be 
Anally planted out, and at what distances ? Also, the 
Thyme is growing pretty thick in places now, and wmuld 
it be harmful to transplant some of it ? Ought either to 
be cut this year, and if so, about what date ?—C. 
CONNAH. 

10189.—Failure of Phlox Drummondi.—Can any¬ 
one tell me the cause of my Phlox Drummondi failing to 
flower ? The growth of the stem and leaves is most 
luxuriant, but there is only an occasional flower, and 
even these are of a withered description, while most of 
the buds shrivel and drop off. I have it planted in all 
aspects, but there is no choice in the result. I may say 
that there is no insect pest, nor is the seed at fault, as a 
batch of my seedlings planted by a friend in the next 
county are now looking most brilliant.—J. S. J. 

10190.—Weeds on a lawn.—My lawn is infested 
with Prunella vulgaris, not all over it, but in patches here 
and there. I have scattered fine coal ashes over it, and 
cut the roots of the weeds with a knife, dropping salt in 
the holes. This latter method causes the lawn to look 
very bare and unsightly, all to no purpose; the pest still 
remains. I roll and machine mow the lawn two or three 
times per week. Can anyone tell me what means to 
adopt to eradicate the pest?—E dward Lawrence. 

10191.—Mushroom growing.— I should like to 
know the best and most profitable way of growing Mush¬ 
rooms, what is done to keep down wood-lice or any 
other insects that are injurious to the Mushroom, also 
if the old beds are of any use in making other new beds 
after they have been productive for about two months, and 
how much longer would they continue without adding 
fresh spawn ?— Industry. 

10192.—Failure of Stephanotis.—My Stephnnotia 
blooms are not coming to perfection. Are they subject to 
[ any disease ; if so, is there any remedy ? As soon as they 
get to the point of opening, there seems to be a blight 
come on the stem, then on the bloom, and they wither 
away; it comes on them with a brownish hue, but it does 
not in any way affect the growth. The average tem¬ 
perature is from 75° to 80°.—8. 

10193.—Climbing Roses.—Will someone kindly 
give me a small list of Roses, to include all the sections, 
suitable for growing up a trellis on the north and east 
sides of a house ? Might 1 safely trust a Souvenir de la 
M almaison on the east wall or on the north ? Is the red 
Gloire de Dijon—otherwise called Heine Marie Henrietto 
—as good and ns hardy as the old variety 1— CURATE. 

10194—Fruiting Vines—At page 256 occurs the 
following passage : “ Hamburgs foe late use will now be 
colouring. With the exception of two hours close treat¬ 
ment from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m., ventilators should be kept 
constantly open.” This is new to me, an amateur. Can 
you tell mo why the houses should be closed for two 
hours ?—T. BOWIvER. 

10195.—Black deposit on Roses.—Will someone 
tell me the cause of the black deposit on the leaves of a 
large Marshal Kiel Rose, of which I have two, trained 
under the glass in separate houses? The same thing 
appears on all the plants growing under the Roses, but 
not on those in other parts of the house. The trees are 
frequently syringed, but without effect.—G. H. L. 

10190.—Climbing Rose.—Last autumn I noticed in 
the west of Ireland tnat many houses were covered by q 
climbing Rose with bronze-coloured foliage and small, 
very bright red flowers. Can anyone tell me its name, and 
also whether it be hardy enough to thrive in a somewhat 
exposed situation in Surrey. 1 fancy it is some kind of 
monthly Rose.—F. M. It. 

10197.—Madresfleld Court Grape.—'What is the 
reason cf this Grape cracking just as the berries com¬ 
mence to colour ? Is it from an overflow of sap. ojf what 1 



282 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Aug. 25, 1883. 


Would a little heat at night help them ? My border is 
moderately dry. I damp the floor morning and evening 
to keep them swelling, but I should like a remedy.—I n 
a Foo. 

10108.—Lastrea fragrans.—I have a plant o( this 
Fern gradually dwindling away. It is certainly sending 
forth a few new fonds, but then each is so much smaller 
than the former, and can hardly raise itself above the 
level of the pot. Can anyone give me advice respecting 
the failure?—C. H. 

10199.—Hollyhocks.—We have in our garden Holly¬ 
hocks blooming where they were last year ; they flower 
more freely than they did last season, but the foliage is 
much blighted. May they be left in the same position 
another vear, and, if not,what treatment do they require ? 
—F. M. It. 

10200.—'Water Lily culture.—I am about to make 
a basin in my garden for Water Lilies, and should like to 
know how many Lilies I should plant in a basin 10 
feet in diameter, if they should be planted in pots, 
the proper season to plant them, and where the plants 
may be procured?—J. S. 

10201 .—New greenhouse.—I have just had a 
greenhouse erected. It has a south aspect, and is un¬ 
heated. Can anyone tell me what I can grow for cut 
flowers this winter and spring, besides bedding plants ? 
Could 1 have white Lilac or Rose trees in pots?— 
G. W. 

10202 —Sowing 1 white Spanish Onion.—Some 
advise the sowing of this Onion in the autumn. Would 
someone inform me if It is advisable, and if the Onions 
would keep the same as those sown in the spring ?— 
Subscriber, 

10203.—Strawberries.—I wish to have a succession 
of Strawberries, both early and late, which will do well 
in Yorkshire. Would some one kiudly give me the 
names of some good varieties for outdoor planting?— 
C. E. D. 

10204.—Rose Glolre de Dijon.—I planted a bush of 
this Rose last February. It has flowered fairly well, and has 
now made three strong growths from 4 feet to 5 feet long. 
.Should these or any part be cut off, also should it be 
mulched with manure or leaves in the winter ?—G. W. 

10205.—Lilies and Narcissus.—Will some kind 
reader tell me the best sorts of Lilies and Narcissus for 
garden purposes, and what is the name of the double 
Narcissus which is seen in such large quantities at all the 
London florists?—C. A. W. 

10206.—Clay’s fertiliser.—Will someone give me 
directions and advice as to the use of this manure ? I 
have used a little of it, but have been afraid to use too 
much.—S troud Grbbn. 

10207.—Soil for Carnations.—In planting layers of 
Carnations and choice Pinks, should dry, old manure, 
such as road-scrapings, be used instead of fresh manure ? 
—Constant Reader. 

10208.—Heating a small greenhouse.—Kindly 
say in your next issue if a paraffin-oil lamp would do for 
heating a small greenhouse. Would it injure the plants ? 
—A. B. 

10209.—Roman Hyacinths and White Nar¬ 
cissi.—To have a gooti supply of these about Christmas^ 
when should the bulbs be planted ? Will they require 
much heat to start them?—M. A. W. 

10210.—Fern case - Will someone inform me how to 
make a Fern case and the best method for ventilating 
ami draining it ? What Ferns would be best, and what 
soil should be used ?—J. A. 

10211.—Sowing Heath seed.—Being in the posses¬ 
sion of some Heath (Erica) seed, I should like to know 
how to sow it so as to get a moderate-sized plant. I 
have no greenhouse, but some handlights. —0. S. M, 

10212.—Transplanting Boses. —Should Hybrid 
Terpetual Roses be removed every two or three years, or 
will it answer to leave them in the same places and 
manure well in October?—A Constant Reader. 

10213.—Scale on Feme.—In Garpehinq of August 
11 a euro is given for the above. Could any reader ih- 
form me how to prevent it, or the cause of its appear¬ 
ance— Fernery. 

10214.—Saltpetre [and Mushrooms.—On what 
form may saltpetre be app ied to a Mushroom bed with 
advantage, and in what quantity? Any information will 
oblige.—M ushroom. 

10215.—Caladiums are all dropping leaf after leaf 
in my greenhouse without any promise of new ones in 
the future. What is the cause and remedy ?—C. H. 

10216—Fixing sun dial.—I want to make an up 
right sun dial, facing due south. Can anyone iustruct me 
how to proceed?—L. L. 

10217.—Fuchsia culture.—Will someone give mo 
advice how to grow Fuchsias to perfection without heat ? 
-T. E. W. 

10218.—Lifting bulbs.—Should bulbs not yet taken 
up be left in the ground, or is ittoo late to take them lip ? 
—Constant Reader. 

10219.—Egg plant.—Is this an annual, aDd is the 
fruit wholesome to eat; if so, which is the best way of 
preparing it for table ?— Carmichael. 

10220.—Earwigs —Will any one tell me if earwigs, at 
any time of their existence, have wings ?—C. Allen. 

10221.—Propagating Azaleas and Draceenas. 
- Will someone describe now this is done ?—W. T. T. 

10222.—Irises.—I should be glad if anyone could in¬ 
form me the names of a few good Irises?—C. A. W. 


Plymouth Rocks.—Kindly say If Plymouth Rocks 
can fly ? Would the same height of fence be sufllcient as 
for Brahmas and Cochins, and do you know where they 
can be obtained ?—J. 8. 

Gillingham’s heat radiator.—We are asked to 
state that communications respecting this apparatus 
should be addressed to the manufacturers, Messrs. 
Treggon & Co., 19, Jewln Street, Londoh, E.C., and not 


to the Inventor, Mr^GUlii^hijri. Qie 


gUTTON S COLLECTIONS of 


gULBS for EARLY FORCING 

pOK PLANTING at ONCE 

J- 42s., 3ls 6&, 21s. and 10a. 6d. each. 

ROMAN HYACINTHS for FORCING. 

•Lb Si ogle White. 3s. 6d per doz., 25s. per 100 
,, Blue 2s. „ 14s. „ 

PARLY NARCISSUS for FORCING. 

Xj Double Roman, 2s. 6d. per doz , 17s. 6d. per 100 

Paper White 2b. ., 14s. „ 

gUTTON’S AUTUMN CATALOGUE of 

gULBOUS FLOWER ROOTS for 1S83 

Q.RATIS and POST FREE on APPLICATION. 

gUTTON and SONS, The Queen’s Seedsmen, 

READING, BERKS. 

BEAUTIFUL AQUILKGIAS (Columbines).- 

D Crerulea, splendid blue ; cosrulea hybrid*, blue and 
yellow; canadensis mum, scarlet; califoruica hybrida, red 
and yellow ; chryaantha, yellow ; nice young plants of above 
five, 2b. Cannell'B (including Douglas's and Cruickshank'e) 
finest hybrids, mixed, 12, 2b. ; 24 3s. 6d. : 100.10s ; all free, 
packing guaranteed.—-J. SVLVK8TER, Idle, Bradford. 

Cl A KNATIuNS, PicoteeB, Pinks (Cannell’B, 
V Dodwells, Carter’s, and Daniels' finest strain*), 12. 
In 6d. ; 24, 2s. 6d. Pansies, Belgian striped, large flowered 
French. Daniels' show and fancy, blotched, Btriped. quadri- 
color. Bugnot’s International, Ac , 24, 2b. Pyrethrum, finest 
French hybrils, double and single, mixed, 12. Is. 6d. ; 24, 
2s. Gd. All above are nice young plants for immediate 
pricking out, quality not to be surpassed, free, packing 
guaranteed.—J. 8YLVE8TER, Tdle, Bradford. 

■PLOWKRS FOR WINTER.-Begonia semper- 

X Horens grandifloia. pure white, and B. semperflorens 
rosea rose, beautiful wax-like blossoms all winter; good 
plants. 6. 2s. 6d.: 12, 4s. 6d., free, packing guaranteed. 
WHITE ROMAN HYACINTHS. 3s. per dozen, 21s. 100. 
DOUBLE ROMAN NARCISSUS, 2s. 6d. per dozen, 17s 
100 ; three of each, 2s. Both above are beautiful Bweet- 
Bcented flowers, blooming at Christmas without forcing. 
White Roman Hyacinths (Blueskin), 2s. 3d. dozen ; blue do., 
2i. HNO A’DROPS. double or single, 3s. per 100; DUC VAN 
THOL TULIPS, single red and yellow, scarlet or crimson. 
Is. 6*L per dozen, 10s. 100; double red and yellow, Is. dozen, 
6s. 100. All above are finest picked bulbs, and, by judicious 
forcing, will bloom at Christmas ; all carriage free lor cash 
with order. Finest Dutch bulbs of all kinds ; lists free.— 
J. SYLVESTER. Idle. Bradford. 

pK 1M U LAB, CALCEOLARIASPrimulas, 

X Kwanley Red, purple and white, Carter’s and Daniels' 
etraius, separate or mixed, 2s. per dozen ; Calceolarias, 
Golden Princess (Carter’s), 2s. 6d. per dozen ; Victoria 
compacta. new dwarf, 2s. per dozen, free, safely packed. 

-J. SYLVESTER. Idle, Bradford. 

PIJ BKROUS BEGONIAS.— Laing’s, Carter’*, 
X Daniels', and Cannell's strains, large plants to flower thiB 
autumn, 6. 2s. ; 12, 3s. 6d., free, safely packed. — J, 
SYLVESTER. Idle, Bradford. 

fJUTCH BULBS.— Plant early in ScDtembir 
XJ for early forcing. Hyacinths, Narcissus, dwarf and 
other Tulips, Crocus, &c. Send for lists, free ; all sound 
picked bulbs, no rubbish.—J. SYLVESTER, Idle, Bradiord. 

OEEDS FOR AUTUMN SOWI nG.-H eart- 

O well Early Marrow Cabbage, Is. 6d. per ounce ; Enfield 
Market do.. 8d. per ounce ; red pickling do, 8d per ounce; 
All the Year Round Lettuce, Is. per ounce ; Onion Giant 
Rocca and Giant White Italian. 9d. per ounce; White 
Lisbon, 3d per ounce, 2s. 6d. per pound. All the above in 
3d. and 6d packets post free. All of the finest stocks pro¬ 
curable.-J. SYLVESTER, Idle. Bradford. 

OTAR OF BETHLEHEM.— 1 will send 25 of 
Q this pretty white spring-floweriog bulb, free, for Is. 6d. 
—R. MARIES, Florist. Lytbam. 

L* VERYONE should grow Anemone japonica 
XJ alba, large white flowers in the autumn ; 4 strong plants 
free for Is. 6d —R. MARIE8, Florist. Lytham. 

CUV CHU1CE aaeorted herbaceous plants, named, 
dU for 12s. $d , paekiDg free great variety in stock.— R. 
MARIES, Florist, Lytham. 

OCHIZOSTYLIS COCCIN EA.—i'hia lovely 

O scarlet Gladiolus-like plant is quite hardy, flowers all 
through the autumn. 12 strong crowns, free, for 2s. 6d.— 
R. MARIES, Florist, Lytham. 

pASSIFLORA CCERULEA.—This lovely blue 

X hardy Passion Flower I can offer two plants free for 
Is. 6d. ; fine climber.—R. MARIE8, Florist. Lytbam. 

SUMMER SNOWFLAKE (Leucojum lusti- 

O rum).— 1 This splendid monster Snowdrop I can offer two 
good flowering bulbs free for Is. 6d. iftee Gardening 
Illustrated of June 23).—R. MARIES. Florist Lytham. 

PINE DOUBLE SNOWDROPS.-lOO flower- 

X ing bulbs fre a for 3s. 6*.—R. MARIES. Florist. Lytham 


lO WINTER BLOOMING PLANTS FOR 4s. 

Id —2 Geraniums Wonderful, 2 Geraniums Emily CasboD, 
3 Primulas, semi-double. 3 selected Chrysanthemums, 3 large 
flowering Cinerarias. The above are all well-rooted, buady 
plants, specially grown for winter blooming. Halt the above. 
2s. 3d : quarter, Is. 3d.: all free, by parcels post.— O AS BON 
& SON, Florists, Millfield, Peterborough. 

HUTTINGS ROOT FREELY NOW. -Cuttings 

VJ of that splendid, large-flowering, dark Pelargonium Fir* 
King, 3d. each, 6, la.; cuttings of that splendid new Zonal, 
semi-double, pink Geranium Emily Casbon. 3d. each. 6, Is ; 
cuttipgs of Geraniums, belt varieties, 6 single and 6 double, 
for Is. 3d.; 6 bronze and 6 silver-edged. »s. 3d.; all correctly 
named and extra strong; cut ready for planting ; all free, by 
parcels post —CASBON k SON, Florists, Millfield, Peter¬ 
borough. _ 

F ORGET-ME-NOTS (Myosotis sylvatica).— 

Nice sturdy, well-rooted plants transplanted If planted 
now will bloom in the early spring. Per doz , 9d., 25 for 
la 3d., 100 for 4s Single Wallflowers, finest varieties, strong 
healthy plants, 3s per 100.—RYDER A SON, Sale, ntar 
Manchester. 

MW GIANT POLYANTHUSES.—Flowers 

■Iv extra large. Good strong plant! at 9d. per doz., 5a. per 
100. Also gold-laced Polyanthuses from one of the finest 
■trains extant, all ready for planting, and warranted to do 
well, 9d. per doz., 5e per 100; will all bloom in the spring.— 
RYDER & SO N, Sale , n ear Man chester._ 

TNLAND PARCELS POST BOXES,50 assorted 

-L sizes, 6s. 6d — TI PPETTS * CO., Aston, B irmin gham._ 

"pOULTRYi—Our well-known strains, carefully 
X bred to make them hardy birds and good winter layers. 
Brown, bfock, white cuckoo or pile Leghorns. Ham burghs. 
Brahmas, Cochins. Cocks, 8s. 6d.; cockerels, 5a. 6d.; young 
hens, 8s. Sd : pullets, 7s. 6d. each, packed. approvaL— 
LEONARD’S POULTRY FARM. R i n gwood. Gao to. 


PANSIES i PAMSIES !! PANSIES l M-Stione 

X well rooted plants. 12 show or fancy, specially selected 
for exhibition, correctly named. 2s 6d ; 24, 4m. 6d. free ; cut¬ 
tings, Is. dozen, named.—HY. GODFREY, Nurseryman, 
Stourbridge. 


‘pANSIES.— Prize varieties as competed with at 
X the leading Scotch exhibitions; It pairs cuttings, 3s.6d., 
4s. 6d., and 5s. 6d.; warranted best sorts only. Pentetemons, 
extra fine sorts,12 pairs cuttings, 3a. 6d ; 12 seedling Panties, 
large plants in bloom, most beautiful, 2s. 6d. Pansy seed 
from my prize collection, Is. and 2s. 6cL packet; all post free. 
—M. C0THBEKT8ON, Public Park Nursery, Rothesay, 
N.B. __ 

"DOUVARDIA President Garfield, splendid 

Jj double Dink flowers, invaluable for cut bloom, la. fid. 
each, 12s. per doz.; B. Alfred Neuner, pure white rosette- 
like double flowers, 9<L each, 6s. per doz.; B Dazzler, an 
attractive floriferous var, bearing fine clusters of deep scarlet 
flowers, 9d- each, 6s. per doz.; B. slogans, beautiful tcarltt 
flowers, 9d. each, 6s. per doz.; B. Vreelandl, pure white, 6d. 
each, 4s. per doz.; B. Hogarth, splendid truss, bright orange- 
scarlet, fine habit, 6<L each, 4s per doz.; B. Humboldt! corym- 
biflora, snow-white flowers, almost equal to Ktephanotis, fid- 
each. 4s. per doz.; B. jasminoides. lar® white flowers, de¬ 
lightfully fragrant, 6d. each, 4s. per doz.; Begonia f uchsioides, 
a fine winter-flowering species, producing attractive coral¬ 
like flowers, 9d. each. 7s. 6cL per doz. ; Gardenia intermedia, 
beet var., clean healthy plants, 9<L each, 7s. 6d. per doz.; 
Marguerite Etoile d’Or. beet var., true healthy plants of this 
are offered at 9d.each, 6«. Od per doz. Terms, cash with order, 
post and package free.—JOHN LEMAN, Chigwell, Essex. 


DLUMBAGO CAPENSlS, strong plants from 

X single pots, some showing bloom, two ror Is, free.— 
J . F. DACE, Sussex Cotta ge Nursery. High S treet, Leyton. 

■70NAL GERANIUMS for winter blooming.— 

XI One dozen strong plants fit for 4-inch pot*, in 12 choice 
named varieties, 3s., free per parcels post.—J. F. DACE, 

fi mwex Cottage Nu rsery , Hig h Stre et, Leyton.__ 

"DANSY SEED from show varieties, Gel and Is. 
X per packet; Chrysanthemum segetum, 6d. per packet; 
old double white Pink, strong plants, 2s. per dozen ; Old 
Criimon Clove, 3s. per dozen; two plants of single Dahlias 
(White Queen and Paragop) from single pots. Is 8d. ; Creep¬ 
ing Jenny, Is. per dozen. Bee Gardening Illustrated, 
July 21, page 225. All post free.—Address ANTHONY 
CULLEN, Gresham Road, 8taines, Middlesex. 

fJHOlCE CHRYSANTHEMUMS, and how to 

G grow them fco perfection.—Bee my Catalogue fully des¬ 
cribing all the finest varieties In cultivation, with plain in¬ 
structions how to grow them. Strong, healthy plants, 2s. 
dozen ; 12s. 100, correotly named, and post free in tin boxes. 
12 very fine new varieties.inclnding Thunberg, Lady Selborne, 
Balantine, Starling, Ac., 5s. 6d., post free. 12 early flowering, 
in new and old varieties, 2s., 3s., or 4s., according to price 
paid. Catalogue as above, one stamp.—N. DAVIS, 66,Warner 
Road, Camberwell, London, 8.E. 


S PECIAL OFFER OF PLANTS BY 

PARCELS POST.—Orders of 5s. and upwards sent free 
by Parcels Post; stronger and better plants can now be sent. 

B. W. KNIGHT begs to call special attention to the follow¬ 
ing selections, which are of the very best: - 12 new double 
Geraniums of 1882 for 9s.: 12 fine double Geraniums of 1881 
for 6s.; 12 fine double Geraniums of 1880 for 4s.; 12 fine 
selected double Geraniums for 3s.; 12 new single Zonal 
Geraniums of 1882 for 9s.; 12 fine single Zonal Geraniums of 
1881 for 6s. ; 12 fine single Zonal Geraniums of 1880 for 4s. ; 
12 fine selected single Zonal Geraniums for 3s ; 12 new 
Fuchsias of 1882 for 9s.; 12 fine Fuchsias, 1880-81, for 4s ; 
12 very select Fuchsias for 2s.; 6 fine foliage Begonias, 3e.; 
6 fine winter-blooming Begonias, 3s.; 12 very select Green¬ 
house Plants, 6a ; 12 select Greenhouse Ferns, 6s.; 12 fine 
Pentetemons, 3 h.; 12 superb golden bronze bicolor Geraniums, 
4s.; 12 splendid varieties Pelargoniums, 4s ; 100 superb 
Zonal Geraniums, double and single, in 100 varieties, for 16«. ; 
50 superb Fuchsias, in 25 or 50 varieties, for 8a.—From B. W. 
KNIGHT, Florist. Battle, Sussex. 


flALCEOLARIAS, CINERARIAS, AND 

Vj PRIMULAS, from the very best flowers and colours 
extant, all raised from home-grown seed, very superb strains ; 
cannot fail to give splendid flowers. Calceolaria, Is. 6d. per 
dozen ; Cineraria. Is. 6d. per dozen ; Primula, 2s. per dozen, 
in good plants, post free. From 

B. W. KNIGHT, Florist, Battle, Sussex. 

PANSIES ! PANSIES ! 1—Strong healthy cut- 

X tingB from our magnificent collection of exhibition varie¬ 
ties ; show. Is. doz.; fancy, Is. Gd. doz. They will root 
readily now.—HARKNESS A SON, Nurserymen, Ac., Be dale. 


PANCY PANSY SEED of this years harvest, 

X from 300 of the finest varieties in cultivation, including 
crimson, bronze, straw, maroon, violet, yellow, white, 
striped, and edged, forming the most wonderful combinations 
of colour, baffling all description. 40 seeds. 6d. ; 100. Is. ; 300, 
2s. 6d., free.—HARKNES8 A SONS. Nurserymen. Bedale. 


PERENNIAL PHLOXES—Anyone may sue- 

X ceed with these, the hardiest and handsomest of all 
herbaceous plants. 12 cuttiDgs, named, all different. Is.; 
over 100 varieties, including salmon. Bcarlet, rose, lilac, white, 
purple, clouded, and striped kinds. The individual pips of 
many kinds exceed 2 in. aoross, borne on handsome spikes.— 
HARKNESS A SON, Nurserymen. Ac.. Bedale. 

PANSIES.—The following make a good collec- 
X tion of Pansies: Canary, Sultan, Mrs. Birksmeyer, 
Thos. Grainger, DonaldBlam, Miss MacNult, Thos. Hunter, 
Wonder, Lord Cnancellor, Alexander MacLemou, Eclipse. 
Robert Burns. Clara Dean. Perfection, Frivolity, Fred 
Perkins. Buttercup. Mrs. Felton, 3s. per dozen, good roots.— 
WM. hYDKNHAM. Water Orton, near Birmingham 


C UTTINGS POST KKKT.- hiiow ana tiiney 
Pansies. Is. 6d. dozen : Violas. Is. ; Pentstemons, Is. Gtl.; 
Antirrhinums, Is. 6d.; Salvias, 1b 6d ; plants, large shining 
flower*, 4s. do/m; healthy stuff — OKMISTON, Florist, 
Ancrum , N.B. _ 

DLOODRED AND HARBINGER WALL- 
X) FLOWERS, Is. 6d. per ICO; Delphiniums, 2i. per dozen : 
Canterbury Bells. Is. B3ore; all very strong plants.— 
SAMUEL GREEN, Romiley, near .Stockport- 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. V. SEPTEMBER 1, 1883. No. 234. 


THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE. 


EAKLT-FLOWERIKO BCIjBS. 

These come to our aid at this season. White 
Roman Hyacinths and scarlet Van Tirol Tulips 
—double and single Roman—and the lovely 
paper white Narcissi (N. papyraccus) may be 
had in bloom from the beginning of December 
if only care is taken to plant them early enough, 
viz., at the end of July or beginning of August. 
Croons imperati, whose natural blooming time is 
at Christmas, is a perfect gem for the cold house, 
where, saved from all vicissitudes of weather and 
envious slugs, it will go on blooming for a month. 
The same may be said of the early-flowering 
Irises (I. alata, L histrio, I. persica, I. cancasica, 
I. stylosa, I. reticulata, and I. tuberosa). Some 
of these are still too rare to trust to the open 
ground ; but even were they plentiful, the slugs 
so persistently destroy their opening buds, that 
it is almost impossible to enjoy their beauty 
except under the shelter of glass. Hepaticas, 
again, and especially the large blue H. angu- 
losa, make beautiful early flowering pot plants 
grown, until wanted for the conservatory, in a 
cold frame. In some gardens, as in my own, 
these old-fashioned harbingers of spring fail 
entirely, in which case, success in pot culture is 
all the more desirable. Omphalodes verna is 
another well-known spring flower which lends 
itself readily to sheltering treatment, and returns 
so rich a reward of foliage and flower as to he 
scarcely recognisable. For many years I have 
tried to have Christmas Roses (Helleborus niger) 
blooming in pots by Christmas Day. I have 
done it, but for some reason or other, pro¬ 
bably mismanagement, their success in pots has 
not been great. But planted ont in the glass 
garden and well cared for and kept cool during 
the summer, how charming might all such winter 
and early spring flowers be. The pure white 
blooms of the Christmas Rose alone would repay 
the shelter. 

Myosotis diMiiiflora, the earliest and best 
Forget-me-Not, which, in favourable seasons 
begins to flower in the open borders at the end 
of March, but which is too often marred by 
snow or frost, is a delightful plant to grow in 
quantity for the unheated greenhouse. Seed¬ 
lings potted in early autumu make the best 
plants, and grown in zinc troughs as an edging 
plant, as well as in pots, it is the admiration of 
all comers in January and February. Hardy 
Primulas, beginning with the beautiful coloured 
varieties of Dean’s hybrids, give us a succession 
of charming spring flowers, including the pale 
lilac cushions of P. denticulate, the bright pink 
of P. rosea, and many another stranger whom 
we gladly welcome from their foreign habitats 
to join our own pale prime-rose. Pots of Violets 
too, the Czar, purple and white, and later on tiie 
double Neapolitan and Marie Louise, or any 
other favourite sort, can never be otherwise than 
acceptable. 

Ho much for the dead time of winter, though 
we have by no means exhausted the list of the 
flowering plants available to brighten it. Yet no 
sooner does the New Year fairly begin its coarse, 
than the flowers come trooping in along with it. 
Anemone blanda and, later, A. apennina open 
their blue eyes, and Sisyrinchium grandiflorum 
nods its purple bells, and hosts of spring flowers 
trip each other up in their race to get before 
their less favoured sisters out-of-doors. And if 
such lowly but lovely blossoms are so abundant, 
what shall be said of the 

Flowering Shrubs 

ivailable for the nnheated house in spring l 
Given a house large enough to contain them, 
with what a wealth of beauty may we not sur- 
iconrl ourselves. To mention only a few—think 
a! the early Rhododendrons, crimson and white 
wd scarlet—of the hardy Azaleas, with their 
vivid colouring of rose and sulphur and pink— 
of the spotless symmetry of the Camellia, “ hardy 
»>a Laurel "—and of the unrivalled loveliness 
o! Piam and Almond and Peach blossom, double 
M.1 single. Then for early spring-fioweriug 
climbers, what can he more beautiful than the 
Sew Zealand Clematis ihctTvisa. with itl great 


white stars; or its more modest Algerian sister 
C. cirrhosa, with its drooping clusters of croam- 
oolour flecked with brown l For sweetness, 
have we not the fragrant Spice tree (Chimonan- 
thus grandiflorus) and the scented Honey¬ 
suckle (Lonicera fragrantissima), while many of 
the tea Roses may ho induced to flower quite 
early under glass 1 All these and many more 
are at our service for the unheated greenhouse. 

All flowering shrubs are the better for a 
season of rest and of ripening in the open air 
during summer, and we must learn how to treat 
them properly and to provide for them suitable 
summer quarters; for neglect in the growing 
season is a most sure prelude to failure in bloom¬ 
ing. It is a good plan to obtain Rhododendrons 
and Azaleas (observe that I do not speak here of 
the Azalea indica of the flower shows, though 
these are not unsuitable for our purpose, but of 
the hardy out-door species) from one of the great 
growers of the so-called American shrubs. They 
can be procured in pots of the size required, and 
should bloom for two or three years, with proper 
management, in the same pots, when, if they 
become too large, you can exchange them for 
others of more suitable proportions, always 
provided that they are in good condition. 
The earliest of these, such as Rhododen¬ 
dron Nobleanum and Azalea amoena, ought 
to be in bloom very early in the year. 
These will shortly be followed by the double- 
flowered Peaches, Almonds and Plums, which 
which may be obtained of all shades of rose and 
pink and white, and which must be chosen 
according to size and the space you can allot to 
them, both for summer and winter quarters. 
Ribes sanguinea and Herberts Darwini make 
charming little early-flowering bushes in pots, 
and well-rooted suckers of the best Lilacs grown 
on for a couple of years and potted up in rich, 
rather still soil, will flower abundantly at 2 feet 
or 3 feet high. So will the 

Thorns (Cratmgus), of which there are a 
number of handsome scarlet and pink varieties, 
both single and double, as well as the ordinary 
May blossom, and which answer excellently if 
well cut in after blooming to make nice compact 
little bushes. In fnct, there are few hardy 
flowering shrubs which may not be made 
amenable to pot culture and to gentle forward¬ 
ing just as easily as the well-known Deutzia 
gracilis and Hoteia (Spiraea) japonica. Each 
one, however,-demands its own method of treat¬ 
ment (which we must learn), just as the Deutzia, 
which must be cut in hard directly after bloom¬ 
ing, and prefers the shelter of glass while 
making its new growth; while Hoteia craves for 
a pan of water to stand in from the moment its 
brown leaf-buds push through the ground, if not 
before. It would be hard indeed with such a 
splendid choice of hardy and half-hardy plants 
and shrubs (and it is impossible in limited 
space to do more than refer briefly to a few) if 
we should still pine after a hothouse with its 
attendant troubles. After all, what is it that 
we are denied ? Simply that we cannot, and 
need not, attempt to have a house ablaze with 
Poinsettias and Salvias, Pelargoniums and Abu- 
tilons, Libonias, Bouvardias, Chinese Primulas, 
and other brilliant but heat-loving subjects in 
the depth of winter. But neither can a poor 
man drive his four-in-hand, nor indulge in any 
other adjuncts of a princely fortune. Many of 
the above, however, can be grown in a house 
from which frost is only just excluded, and 
bloomed well in the summer, and with that we 
must be content. For winter flowers, we must 
learn to grow such as will adapt themselves to 
the temperature we can afford to give them. 

It cannot bo too strongly insisted upon, that 
where there is no heating apparatus, the mere 
shelter of glass will not exclude frost. Whatever, 
therefore, we attempt to grow, we must not 
forget that unless we adopt temporary means to 
prevent it, our plants will inevitably be subjected 
to a great degree of cold, for which reason it 
will be wise to grow nothing that will cause 
disappointment, unless, indeed, it bn by way of 
experiment. For many years it has been a 
source of great interest and instruction to me to 
try such experiments, with the result that in 
many cases it has been found that certain plants 


succeed far better with cooler treatment than 
that to which they are ordinarily subjected. 
Thus I have successfully grown and bloomed 
several Amaryllids, Ilaemanthus, and other Cape 
bulbs, Lasiandramacrantha.AbutilonspCrassulas, 
Calla (Richardia) mthiopica in early spring, and 
many other tender plants by simply excluding 
frost. The question may be asked, why not have 
a proper heating apparatus to be used only on 
occasion? But the reason is this, that the 
moment the furnace is set going you get too 
much heat, growth is excited, and when the fire 
is let out, receives a check from the sudden 
change of temperature, which acts injuriously 
on the health of the plants subjected to such 
variations. The aim of the cold house cultivator 
should be simply to keep his plants at rest during 
the natural period of rest. The aim of the hot¬ 
house cultivator is to excite his plants into 
growth during the natural period of rest, which 
makes all the difference in the two systems. 
Therefore, the cold house gardener does not 
want, and is much better without, any means of 
heating, save of the most simple and temporary 
kind, such as I have suggested in the heat 
radiator. 

As a case in point of successful cool treatment 
in early spring, a portion of the wall of my 
small conservatory is festooned with the scarlet 
and black pendants of Troparolum tricolor. 
The remark is constantly made, “ I never saw 
that plant so full of bloom or so healthy looking 
before.” Yet I have found that the place of all 
others where it best succeeds in making its 
growth is in the window of a room little used 
facing south. Thero it has remained until con¬ 
venient to remove it to the conservatory. Of 
course, a little contrivance is needful in such a 
case to arrange the moveable trellis, as I myself 
dislike the balloon-shaped wire frame on which 
this plant is ordinarily grown. 

I subjoin a short list of shrubs suitable for 
flowering successively, chiefly in winter and 
spring, in an unheated greenhouse, which may 
be found useful. Most of them, if not all, can 
be successfully grown in pots, plunged in a 
genial situation out-of-doors during the summer 
whilst making and ripening their growth, where 
they must be carefully attended to with water: 
—Abelia fioribunda, rosy purple, blooms naturally 
in March ; A. rupestris, white, autumn-flowering, 
a very pretty basket or bracket plant; Amyg- 
dalus persica fl.-pl„ double flowering, peach pink, 
March ; Azalea amcena, purple, A. obtusa, cerise, 
both very early bloomers; A. Admiral de Ruyter, 
scarlet; A. coccinea major, scarlet; A. Floren¬ 
tine, pink and sulphur; A. J ulius Caisar, scarlet; 
A. Marie DorothC-e, white and pink ; A. viscosa 
fioribunda, white, sweet scented ; and others. 
Berberis Darwini, yellow, May, makes a pretty 
pot plant; Camellias, from February to May; 
may be either grown in pots or planted in green¬ 
house border; Cerasus japonica, pink, April; 

C. fi.-pl. alba, double-flowered white cherry, 
March; Choisya ternata, white, in spring and 
early summer ; Cratmgus (Hawthorn) of sorts; 
Cydonia japonica (Japan Quince), March, scarlet 
to white, for pots ; Daphne Mezereum, mauve, 
March; D. Odora Mazeli, pink and white, De¬ 
cember, scented ; Beutzia gracilis, white, April; 

D. scabra fl.-pl., double white, May; Fabiana 
imbricata, white, like a Cape Heath, May; For- 
sythia viridissima, yellow, March ; F. Fortune); 
Hoteia (Spiraea) japonica, white, may be had in 
bloom at any time, according to cultivation; 
Jasminum nudiflorum, yellow, December; Pyrus 
Maulei, scarlet. May; l’runus sinensis fl.-pl., 
double white plum, March; P. triloba, pink, 
April ; Rhododendron Early Gem, delicate 
pinkish-white; R. prarcox, rosy lilac; R. dahuri- 
eum, purple, flowers naturally end of March; R. 
guttatum colorans, white, spotted brown; R. 
gemmiferum, crimson with white centre; R. 
igncscens, scarlet; E. Nobleanum, rose, ono of 
the earliest, February; Staphylea pinnata, 
creamy white, June ; Syringa persica, the Lilac, 
May; can be considerably forwarded by the 
shelter of glass. 

In the above, the natnral time for blooming 
out-of-doors lias been mentioned in all cases. 
This can bo very considerably advanced by the 
mere shelter of an unheated house—but it can- 









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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Sept. 1, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


285 


the severest frosts and snow; in the winters of 
1880 and 1881, when all our other varieties 
which were planted beside this one were killed, 
scarcely one plant of Ivery's Nonsuch suffered, 
and they made good-hearted Lettuces early in 
summer. Of Hardy Hammersmith, Tom Thumb, 
and All the Year Round Cabbage varieties, it is 
well to plant a number of seedling plants in a 
frame or hand-light, to plant out upon an early 
border, which will come into use before the 
plants which have stood out all the winter. The 
young seedlings of this sowing must be planted 
upon a warm border as soon as they are large 
enough to be transplanted. The varieties which 
I find most suitable for sowing early in boxes, 
and which come soonest to perfection, are Tom 
Thumb and London White Cos. For the general 
crop out-of-doors, for summer use, Giant White 
Cos is one of the best, and it requires no tying 
to blanch it. Kingholm Cos is one of the best 
summer Lettuces; it needs tying one week 
before it is fit for use. Paris White Cos is a 
good hardy variety of Cabbage Lettuces for 
summer U6e. I find nothing equal to Tom 
Thumb, All the Year Round, Stanstead Park, 
and Victoria. American Gathering is a curled 
Lettuce of dwarf habit, intermediate between 
the Cos and Cabbage varieties, has a hardy con¬ 
stitution, standing the winter,- it forms nice 
crisp heads, resembling a well-blanched head of 
Endive, but it has the flavour of a good crisp 
Lett uce. I think this will make a good Lettuce 
for spring and early summer use. W. C. 


The Trebons Onion.— Having grown this 
fine variety for the past two seasons, I can fully 
endoise your correspondent “ D's ” remarks 
respecting it. Although sown at the end of Feb¬ 
ruary alongside the Giant Lemon Itocca and 
ot hers, it far excelled all other kinds, being more 
solid and symmetrical,and the bulbs when peeled 
are beautifully white and extremely mild. From 
half-a-dozen short rows, I last autumn exhibited 
a dozen of the most even in size and shape, and 
they averaged over a pound each. They were the 
finest in the show (which is rather famous for 
the finest Onions and Celery), and were awarded 
first prize, the same variety having taken similar 
honours the previous year as a “winter” variety. 
—Amateur. 

10117.— Mushrooms and Cucumbers. 

—In answer to “Interrogative,” I may say that 
I have grown Mushrooms with Cucumbers very 
successfully. The spawn was broken into small 
pieces and placed on the top of the manure and 
covered with loam. The Mushrooms ought to 
appear in about six weeks after the bed is 
spawned. The leaves of the Cucumbers should 
form sufficient shade. The above was put in 
round the sides of the frame.— Experimenta¬ 
list. _ 

A cheap lnuectlcide. —I am osing at the 
present time a decoction for the destruction of 
green and black aphides, thrips, and mealy bug 
on Vines, which I find answers the end in view 
capitally, costs really nothing, and is within the 
power of anyone with a garden to manufacture 
at home. I bruise with a mallet 40 pounds of 
common laurel leaves and young shoots, put 
them into a copper with about 30 gallons of soft 
water, which is boiled for about an hour. The 
liquor is then of a nice sherry colour, and of 
course very poisonous, but perhaps not more so 
than many insecticides. The above proportions 
of leaves and water I have used in the undiluted 
stite, with soft soap in some cases to give it 
adhesiveness, and have found no ill results to 
occur even in the case of tender young growths 
of either indoor or hardy plants. It has been 
used this season, after exhausting our bought-in 
remedies, on Reaches out-of-doors and in the 
Reach houses after the fruit was picked, on 
Cherries infested with that troublesome black-fly, 
on Melons for red spider, and on all with equally 
good effect, and it is so cheap that one need not 
be afraid of using it too abundantly. We keep 
now a good quantity of it always on hand, so 
that it can be got at for dipping or syringing at 
any time. For mealy bug I nse it now instead 
of methylated spirit, and find it just as efficient 
as the latter. It is advisable when using it on 
trees carrying fruits to wash it off before it has 
had sufficient time to dry on the fruit. I mean 
to try it on Apple trees overrun with American 
blight, and also as a winter dressing in stronger 
ve, and I anticipate 

3ogfe 


proportions than the abo 
good results from it^use.- 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


THE PURPLE MULLEIN 

(VERBASCUM PHCKNICEUM.) 

This is an old garden favourite which for some 
reason or other is not often met with in gardens 
now-a-days. This cannot be from want of at¬ 
tractiveness, for it is at the same time a showy 



The Purple Mullein (Verbaicum phteniceum). 

and an elegant plant. So long ago as I5f)7 it 
was cultivated by Gcrarde, who speaks highly of 
it; hence it has been in gardens for about three 
centuries. It is a native of South and East 
Europe, where itgrows plentifully on the margins 
of woods and in stony Grass fields. It grows 
from 2 feet to 4 feet high, and from a tuft of 
root-leaves the slender flower-stems arise fur¬ 
nished for about half their length with flowers, 
each as bigas a florin, arranged in a loose, spicate 
manner. The colour of the blossoms varies con¬ 
siderably ; normally it is purple, but we have 
seen it white, deep purple, rose, pink, and every 
intermediate shade between these. We should 
always include this in a select list of border 
flowers, notwithstanding that, like most other 
Mulleins, it is not a true perennial, requiring to 
be raised yearly from seed in order to have a 
succession of flowering plants. But this is a 
simple matter, as seeds are plentifully produced, 
and seedlings may be easily raised; indeed, in 
light soil, such, for example, as that of the 
herbaceous ground at Kew, seedlings spring up 
spontaneously in most seasons, and the plant 
virtually gives no trouble whatever in its culture. 
In order, however, to grow it well so as to obtain 
full development, it is necessary to pay some 
little attention to it. The seeds should be sown 
as soon as ripe in pots in a frame, and as soon as 
big enough to handle the seedlings should be 
planted out in a good light soil in a place where 
they could be under the eye during their in¬ 
fantile stage. About September they should be 
transplanted to their permanent position, which 


should be a border of rich, light soil not too 
exposed, and well drained, for if otherwise, the 
plant, being South European, may succumb to 
our cold winters. If so treated, the plants will 
amply reward the cultivator by a glorious show 
of bloom extending from the latter end of May 
till July. 


CLEMATIS FOR BEDS. 

In order to grow Clematis well in the open air 
choose a well-drained site fully exposed to the 
sun. bat sheltered from cold winds if possible; 
then trench in a good supply of manure, leaf- 
mould, or similar material. It is very important 
to make the bed well, so as to insure a vigorous 
growth that will give a long season of bloom. 
In spring, or preferably autumn, plant the 
Clematis about 4 feet apart; by so doing, every 
other plant may be taken out in two years' time. 
Fill in the spaces amongst the plants with dwarf 
RoBes—if on their own roots the better, as the 
suckers do not become troublesome amongst the 
Clematis. For the first two or three years let 
the Clematis ramble over the Roses with a little 
training and tying; no other support will be 
needed. Clematis do not make much show for 
a year or two, but with a bed of Roses one can 
afford to wait. Eventually the Roses will be 
smothered, then the Clematis will need some 
wire or other support. 1 prefer to fix wirework 
in the spring rather than have a permanent 
framework, and clear it away in autumn when 
the Clematis are cut down to within 6 inches of 
the ground, for bare wirework is objectionable 
during winter. Cutting down of courso applios 
to the Jackmani type. For a mass of one colour 
the following are 

Varieties of the good summer and autumn 
flowers; Jackmani type—Rubella, rich claret- 
purple ; Rrince of Wales, puce-purple; Gipsy 
Queen, dark velvety purple; rubro-violacca, 
maroon-purple ; Star of India, reddish plum with 
red bars ; Jackmani superba, better than the 
original. These are strong growers, and are 
capable of forming a mass of bloom. The 
following are good for forming a mixed bed in 
addition to the above; Tunbridgensis, deep 
bluish mauve; Victoria, deep reddish mauve; 
lilacina floribunda, grey lilac. Of the Viticella 
type are Lady Bovill, greyish blue; Mrs. James 
Bateman, pale lavender; Thomas Moore, pucy 
violet; Viticella Menosa, reddish purple, veined. 
Of the lanuginosa type—Alba Magna, white; 
Fairy Queen, pale flesh, pink bars; Henryi, 
creamy white; Lady Caroline Nevill, French 
white, mauve bars; lanuginosa Candida, tinted 
greyish white; Otto Frcebel, greyish white; 
Madame Van Houtte, white j Beauty of Surrey 
greyish blue. 

All the above are good for making a display 
during summer and autumn. No doubt there are 
newer varieties that are an improvement on 
some that I have mentioned. Now is the best 
time to visit a nursery and purchase them while 
in bloom, which is far better than relying on 
descriptions. I consider the early-floweriDg 
varieties are quite unsuitable for planting along 
with late varieties; they all grow together in 
such a tangled mass that it is almost impossible 
to separate them at the time of pruning, and to 
cut the early flowering types down is to cut off 
the bloom. 

Lonicera japonica aurea makes a first-rate 
edging to the bed. When it is well established 
cut it down close to the ground every spring; it 
will then soon shoot up afresh, but it is best not 
cut down until spring, as it forms a bright edging 
duriDg winter, beiog perfectly hardy. A very 
effective bed can be made by mixing Clematis 
Jackmani and Rose Souvenir do la Malmaison 
together, edged with Lonicera. N. 


Late-sown biennials.— We are all liable 
to err in sowing all kinds of garden flowers too 
soon, thereby getting a blaze of bloom at ono 
time and a scarcity at another, and thus falling 
into the very same error as the bedding-out 
system lands us into if carried out on hard and 
fast lines. The thing to aim at, in my opinion, 
is to sow and plant in small successions lots, so 
that the blossoming period may be extended as 
long as possible. It is all very well to sow early 
and give the plants as long a period of growth 
as possible, if only a short, brilliant display is 
required, but for the majority of gardens a suc¬ 
cession is the thing to aim at. I have at present 
a quantity of Sweet Williams, Canterbury Bells 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



286 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sect. 1, 1883. 


and similar flowers only just coming into bloom, 
having been sown very late last year, -while the 
flowers are mostly fading on plants that were 
sown early.—J. G„ Hants. 

Slebold’s Plantain Lily.- This exquisite 
plant (Funkia Sieboldi) combines all the good 
qualities of a flowering and fine-foliaged plantin 
one, and is very beautifully scented as well. Any¬ 
one who has seen the large sub-tropical beds in 
the London parks edged with this noble plant 
will hardly need to be reminded of its suitability 
for edging, as its fine foliage and drooping Lily¬ 
like flowers stamp it as one of the very best of 
hardy plants. It also makes an excellent pot 
plant, and under glass its exquisite fragrance is 
more apparent than in the open air. We have 
some large potfuls that, either for foliage or 
flower, are able to hold their own against 
Eucharis or any of the tropical plants that fre¬ 
quently show but a poor return for what is ex¬ 
pended on them ; indeed, this beautiful plant 
only need be tried once to recommend itself. It 
will grow in almost any kind of soil, and the 
longer it is left undisturbed, the finer will be 
the display of both foliage and flowers. Top- 
dress it annually, and you will say it is the best 
of fine-foliaged hardy plants. Keep a few large 
pots for the decoration of the conservatory, and, 
although the leaves will be smaller, the towers 
will be purer and more fragrant, so that either 
as a flowering or fine-foliaged plant, Siebold’s 
I’lantain Lily will be sure to have its admirers, 
and to become one of the most popular of plants. 
—J. G. 

Good Violas. —Amongst Violas that we 
have yet tried we find Sovereign to be the best 
yellow (rich golden), and it is very dwarf in 
habit. It is suitable alike for edgings, lines, and 
massing. Of whites, Vestal is one of the purest, 
and, like Sovereign, dwarf, but more erect in 
growth. Both are free bloomers, and young 
plants put out early in spring have been quite a 
mass of flower during the whole season ; in short, 
they are almost continuous in their flowering if 
occasionally looked over, and if all seed-pods are 
kept picked off. For the free-flowering proper¬ 
ties, however, nothing beats a purple which we 
have under the name of Eglintoni. This I have 
failed to find in any trade catalogue, but it 
answers as nearly as possible to the descriptions 
given of Mulberry. It is rather a tall grower. 
Two corresponding beds planted with this in the 
spring of last year have been blooming almost 
without intermission; they bore such a crop of 
flowers in May and June this year, that I had 
not the heart to do away with them for the sake 
of change, and they are only getting rather rusty - 
looking now. Anyone desirous of having these 
three colours of Violas will find the sorts named 
to give satisfaction.—J. S. 

Propagating Violas and PanBies.— 
There are few plants more readily increased by 
cuttings than these, provided the cuttings are of 
the right sort, viz., young and sappy, and no 
plant more difficult if the shoots are hard and 
hollow, as the old flowering ones always are. In 
a season like the present both l’ansies and 
Violas continue to flower the entire season, and 
consequently young growths fit for cuttings arc 
not procurable early enough in the season to 
make good plants. I find it best to cut down a 
portion of each sort at this time of year, as they 
quickly send up a quantity of small shoots from 
the base that if taken off directly they are large 
enough strike root freely under hand-glasses 
in a shaded place. If put in now they will be fit 
for planting out in nursery beds in September, 
and will make fine plants for spring bedding.— 
J. G„ Hants. 

Carnations, PIcotees and Pinks.— 

Will some one point out the distinct ive characters 
of these flowers.—G. P. [The difference between 
these flowers is wide, but the distinguishing 
features are easily discerned. Take the Pink for 
instance. Its reputed parent is Dianthus plu- 
marius, a plant with glaucous leaves, flowera 
white with a dark centre, and the petals toothed 
or fringed at the margin. The Pink of the florist 
follows this by having a dark centre, and a 
purple or reddish purple lacing on a white 
ground. The whole plant is dwarf, and is in 
flower a month before the Carnation and Picotee. 
Dianthus caryophyllus is undoubtedly the parent 
of the Clove Carnation and Picotee, and it is 
worthy of note that there is as much difference 
in the perfume of the various forms of the Car¬ 
nation as in the colo*fs> The new filmic flake 

Co gre 


Carnation named Squire Whitbourn is Clove 
scented. Cloves are well known in every garden. 
The Carnation of the florist is distinguished by 
the flowers being striped, barred and spotted, 
with one or two colours in each flower. Those 
with one colour are termed flakes, the two 
coloured flowers are bizarres. The scarlet 
bizarres, for instance, have white, scarlet, and 
maroon in one flower. The scarlet flakes have 
white and scarlet in one. Piootees have pure 
white flowers, with a margin to the petals ; those 
with a narrow margin are called light edged 
Picotees. The broad margined varieties are 
termed heavy edged. A stripe, bar, or spot in a 
Picotee is a fault, and the margin should be even 
throughout.—J. D. E.] 

Clematis and Honeysuckle a pretty 

combination.—Against a high wail I lately saw a 
strikingly beautiful effect produced by planting 
Clematis Jaekmani and the golden-leaved 
Honeysuckle together, the latter forming a 
dense mass of golden-green foliage, from out of 
which the shoots of Clematis Jaekmani, laden 
with rich purple flowers, hung in graceful un¬ 
trained profusion. In fact there are few flower¬ 
ing plants that excel the Clematis either in 
richness or wealth of blossom, and certainly the 
old C. Jaekmani is able to hold its own with all 
the newer varieties. I like the Clematis in 
almost any form of training, but for beautiful 
effects of combination there is hardly any 
climber so well adapted, either by habit of 
growth or beauty of flower, for lending a charm 
to its neighbours; thin out the shoots in winter, 
and secure them firmly to the plant the shoots 
are to mingle with, and then allow the annual 
growths to grow in their own way. The mauve 
coloured varieties, like C. lanuginosa, look well 
on dark green Ivy, while all the various shades 
of this floriferous genus may be turned to good 
account in wall gardening, and to those who are 
fond of trying new and original mixtures in 
their garden, I can confidently recommend the 
Clematis as one of the very best subjects to 
experiment on. Its habit of growth is so grace¬ 
ful that it only needs to bo let alone to form a 
beautiful picture.—J A M ks Groom, Gosport. 

Pansies in cold seasons —The present 
cold season demonstrates the usefulness of the 
Tansy as a plant which can be relied on when 
tender plants fail. The borders I have hitherto 
grown them in were required this year for 
seedling Primroses and Auriculas, and as these 
had to be potted after blooming preparatory to 
moving to a new residence in the autumn, I 
filled the gaps with Stocks, Asters, and Balsams, 
thinking we slionld have a hot summer. The 
Stocks will do, but the Asters are poor, and the 
Balsams will be a dead failure. Self - sown 
seedling Pansies, however, aro coming up every¬ 
where, and as fast as the biooins show what they 
are they are moved to the vacant spots with as 
littlo root disturbance as possible, where they 
quickly establish themselves. Many come up 
just where they are wanted. Gardeners who are 
obliged to make a good show in the autumn 
cannot do better than sow a few good batches of 
Pansies in the spring to be ready to plant out in 
the last week of Jnly. The earlier the season 
the better show they will make. Another plant 
which the cool weather exactly suits is the earlier 
of the autumn Phloxes, P. suffruticosa. In the 
cool summer and moist autumn of the last year 
these bloomed very well twice with ease—in 
July and again in September. Like the Pansies, 
they do well with an eastern aspect, or in partial 
shade when the season is too hot for them.—J. D 

Oollinsia bicolor in pots— This pretty 
plant that is so effective in flower borders 
treated as an annual, is equally if not more 
beautiful as a greenhouse pot plant. Sow in 
September in 1-inch pots filled with good soil, 
set them on a shelf near the glass in a cold house 
or frame, as they only require shelter from severe 
frost. Keep well watered after the pots get full 
of roots, and in April they will expand their 
beautiful spikes of lavender and white blossoms. 
They make excellent material for softening down 
the effect of more brilliant coloured flowers, such 
as Azaleas, Geraniums, &c., that are so freely 
used in spring, and tliat require a goodly mixture 
of neutral tints to prevent the glaring effect of 
modem flower gardening being repeated again 
under glass.—J. Groom, Gosport. 

Daisy culture for market.— Throughout 
this district, where cottagers as well as trade 
growers in all directions grow Daities for market, 


all are just now busy in pulling their stocks to 
pieces, and dibbling them out into fresh soil for 
increase. Where the ground is good, it is the 
ride to do this twice in the year. First in May 
after the winter stock has been cleared out as far* 
as is safe; the remaining plants, usually the 
weakest in the beds, are lifted, parted, and re¬ 
planted for the summer. The inducement thus 
thrown upon the plants to make new roots from 
the summer growth causes them to become well 
established, and even in dry, burning soils the 
plants suffer hut little from the summer heat. 
The planting now is consequent upon the good 
growth made during the summer, and the stock 
is increased by division about sixfold. The past 
summer has been an exceptionally good one for 
not only Daisies, but all kinds of hardy spring- 
blooming plants, and no doubt the special 
benefits resulting from the extra strong growth 
made will be evident this year. Perhaps it is 
largely owing to this and the now prevalent 
rains that Daisies are being divided earlier than 
usual, but early planting means strong early- 
blooming material in the spring. Many thou¬ 
sands of the large red and white are sold at fid. 
per dozen, and by the piece of several hundreds 
even cheaper than that. Even at that price, 
however, from 8s. to 10s. per rod of ground may 
be made, and the soil used for the growth of a 
summer crop. It is strange that none of the 
growers have taken to the Aucuba-leaved form 
to any extent, but they regard it with distrust, 
as it is at times shy, and sometimes reverts. If 
the best coloured plants be always selected for 
stock, however, that defect is avoided. Market 
growers sell their best coloured plants first, and 
leave the uncertain ones for stock, and lienee, 
deterioration soon ensues. As a market com¬ 
modity, it seems as if planters will never tire of 
the Daisy, and certainly it is one of the most 
charming of hardy spring flowers.— HOUNSLOW. 

Speedwells (Veronicas).—Nearly all the 
hardy herbaceous species of these are worthy of 
cultivation, and several of them of prominent 
positions in mixed flower borders. The hand¬ 
some shrubby kinds, too, are very desirable, their 
compact growth and long flowering season 
rendering them indispensable. The following 
are a few of the best kinds for planting as single 
specimens or in groups of three : Andersoni and 
its variegated form (both shrubby), azurea, 
crassifolia, grandis, leucantha, longifolia, pinna- 
tifida, rupestris, and Teucrium. The dwarf 
spreading kinds, such as the two last named, are 
excellent for carpeting the ground beneath taller 
kinds, also for rockery planting. A few are 
useful for “ carpet bedding,” such an incana, a 
white-leaved kind, and the trailing green kinds, 
like alpina, heterophylla, orieutalis, prostrata, 
and repens. All may be increased by cuttings 
from the young shoots, and most of the her¬ 
baceous species easily by division of the roots. 

Ampelopsis Veitchi and Geanothua 

Gloire de Versailles. — These climbers ere 
very effective grown together on a south wall, 
the bright Cambridge blue of the Ceanothus 
forming an excellent contrast to the dark 
burnished leaf of the small Virginian Creeper 
(A. Votchi). What an admirable plant this 
Ceanothus is. I have been very much surprised 
that so very little notice is taken of its qualities. 
Here, at Cardigan, in South Wales, in a position 
sheltered from the north and north-east wind, 
but fully exposed to the south-east, a plant put 
out in 1877 has stood nobly, growing luxuriantly, 
and scarcely even losing a shoot from the effects 
of those two hard successive winters; and 
often under the influence of a stinging 
south-easter. With me this Ceanothus is the 
most extraordinary plant for blooming. Planted 
originally in good stiff turf soil, I havo on 
several occasions renewed it with rich 
manure, which this plant evidently delights in, 
as it constantly blooms free different times 
during tho summer and autumn, and struggles 
on delighting one with its persistency into the 
middle of cheerless November. This Ceanothus 
is the very flower for those people who can really 
arrange a flower vase. Use a few sprays of it with 
the common Meadow Sweet, and you get a result 
that flower lovers would appreciate. Tropnsolum 
speciosum is also a plant that has done splen¬ 
didly here. I have it growing up a trellis, 
and it is now in bloom with Clematis 
Jaekmani. This Tropiuolum is a wonderful 
blooming plant when fairly established. Mine 
grows nnde.’ a wall facing due west, and is thus 




Sept. 1, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


287 


protected from the morning sun. I fancy this is 
the secret of its growth. It is really a shade- 
loving plant as far as its tubers are concerned, 
but revels in the sun when it gets a bit above 
ground, and I know of nothing more oeautifcl 
in the way of climbers than it is, the only out- 
of-door plant, in my opinion, to which can 
safely be applied the word “ glowing,” standing 
as it does “ a wave of fire,” and in bold relief 
from its shapely leaf, a leaf so different, from 
the coarse growth of the common Tropieolum. 
The plant that I have now in bloom would cover 
a space i yards in breadth by 10 feet high, and 
was originally planted in turf soil, and is often 
watered with liquid manure. I am convinced 
that plant lovers would succeed with this 
Tropjeolum if they were to take care to plant it 
originally either on a north or west wall. It is 
a plant succeeding gloriously in Scotland, a 
country with an average temperature far cooler 
than ours. This mistake about planting is so 
often made by people who are fond of plants, 
bat who do not master any details of culture. 
They have, perhaps, immensely admired a plant, 
ard after a good deal of trouble secured one ; 
rejoicing in their treasure and remembering its 
beauty, their first remark is, “ Oh ! we will give 
t his the best spot on that bit of south wall.” The 
result is that the poor thing comes up and 
withers away.—H. Miles, Cardigan. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extract* from a Garden Diary — September 3 
to September 8. 

Sowing Red and White Turnip Radishes; shifting a 
few Cinerarias and Primulas into pots for blooming early ; 
putting in cuttings of double Petunias, Lobelias, and 
Nierembergias ; catting off all heads of Globe Artichokes 
that are overgrown ; removing all young shoots from 
Tomatoes in order to expose the unripened fruit to the 
sun anti gathering those that are ripe ; potting Pelargo¬ 
niums which have been struck in the open ground; clear¬ 
ing off Strawberry runners from permanent plants, apply¬ 
ing a good coating of rotten manure between the rows 
aud forking it in; hoeing amongst Broccoli and nil other 
growing crops to kill weeds before wet weather sets in ; 
planting all spare ground with Cabbage plants to come 
into use in winter ; gathering Louise Bonne of Jersey, 
Jersey Gratioli, and a few Mane Louise Pears for dessert: 
pottiug a collection of Campanulas ; covering up dwarf 
Ceans with spare lights to protect them from early frosts 
and heavy rains ; roughly digging and heavily manuring 
a piece of ground lately cleared of Peas for next year’s 
Onions ; earthing up Celery and Cardoons ; pinching off 
all ruuners from Strawberries in pots; pricking out 
1“.lack-seeded Brown Cos and Stanstead Park Lettuces; 
thinning out Spinach and afterwards hoeing between the 
rows; catting Grass edgings and turning gravel walks to 
give them a fresh appearance for the winter ; cutting off 
Strawberry runners and weeding and hoeing between the 
plants; earthing up Celery whilst the soil is dry and 
friable. 

Digging ground for Autumn-sown Cabbages ; clearing 
olT Peas and cleaning the ground for other crops; thin¬ 
ning Turnips; eloaning, weeding, and rolling gravel 
walks ; stopping all laterals on Vines ; tying out Chrysan¬ 
themums ; gathering Yellow Ingestre, Cox’s Orange 
Pippin, and Emperor Alexander Apples ; al3o a few more 
Marie Louise Pears and Tomatoes ; sowing Chervil; thin¬ 
ning out Mignonette in pots ; also Lettuce and Endive 
in seed beds; Dutch hoeing between all Caulillowers, 
Cabbages, and newly-planted Lettuce and Endive ; reno¬ 
vating manure linings round frames. 

Glasshouses. 

Propagating.— Almost all stove and inter¬ 
mediate temperature flowering and fine-leaved 
plants that can be propagated from cuttings 
may with advantage be put in to strike now, 
providing there is enough heat at command 
through the winter to keep them growing 
slowly, for without this they are apt to get into 
a stunted condition. The gain of propagating 
such things now instead of in spring is that 
plants so raised have a long start of spring- 
struck stock, and those that flower naturally in 
a young state will bloom much better next 
summer frem autumn-struck cuttings than those 
propagated in spring. Amongst flowering 
plants, the kinds advisable to strike now are 
Ixoras, Clerodendrons, Allamandas, Dipladenias, 
Vincas, Aphelandras, Centradenias, Bougainvil¬ 
leas, Gardenias, Hoyas, Lasiandras, Tacsonias, 
Scutellarias, Rondeletias, and Pcntas. Of fine¬ 
leaved plants that can also be struck now are 
Sonerilas, Pothos, Dracsenas, Crotons, and 
Cissus. All that is necessary in each case is to 
secure shoots that are in the right condition, 
neither too hard nor, on the contrary, too 
yonng and soft. At this season it will generally 
be found best to place each cutting in a single 
small pot. which should be half filled above the 
drainage material with Jo^m or peat, according 
to the particular requirfment of each Wild is its 


preference for one or other of these soils, filling 
up the pots with sand. By thus putting soil of 
a substantial nature in the bottom of the pots, 
the yonng plants will have something to support 
tnem even if they are not shifted on before 
winter. A good brisk heat should be used, so as 
to get the cuttings rooted with as little delay as 
possible, after which they ought to be fully 
inured to the light and air that is given to the 
other occupants of the house. Not the least 
gain of doing all such work now is that it re¬ 
lieves the pressure of other matters at the busy 
season. 

Euchabis. —This useful plant can be so 
managed as to make growth or flower at almost 
any time, supposing the bnlbs are strong enough. 
A short rest, either by keeping the plants as dry 
as they will bear for a few weeks without in¬ 
juring the leaves, then giving water with a little 
more heat, will generally throw them into flower; 
or after a reduction of temperature and little 
water for a time they will usually throw up 
freely when returned to heat. Where there are 
large specimens composed of a number of bulbs 
of various sizes, if the whole are shaken out of 
the soil, and the strongest are repotted together 
as they should be, tho operation usually causes 
them to flower freely. When this is done it is 
well to put the smaller bulbs, according to their 
different sizes, four or five together, in pots just 
large enough to accommodate them. This will be 
found better than crowding greater numbers to¬ 
gether. Where large specimens are required all 
that is needful is to keep continually moving as 
needed into larger pots without disturbing the 
bulbs more than necessary. When the intention 
is to grow large specimens, the plants should be 
shifted on whenever they want more pot roem, 
not deferring the work to any particular season, 
as usual with most other plants, Crinums and 
1’ancratiums. Asa matter of course the time of 
active growth is regulated by their flowering 
season. Such as are yet growing should have 
every encouragement, so that they may get well 
ripened before winter. In the cultivation of 
these plants exposure to full light at all times is 
all important. The mistaken practice of stowing 
them away under stages, or letting them suffer 
under the shade of other plants, is the general 
cause of failure. 

Vallota purpurea. —A sufficient stock of 
this useful autumn-flowering bulbous plant, 
should exist where there is a conservatory to he 
kept furnished with blooming plants. With a 
sufficient number to fall back upon, by keeping a 
portion of the plants at an ordinary greenhouse 
temperature all through the spring, with others 
a little warmer, sucli as on a shelf in a mid¬ 
season vinery, a succession of flower may be had 
from the beginning of August up to October. 
Those that have bloomed will now do to be kept 
drier at the roots, but having evergreen leaves the 
soil must never be let to get too dry, and instead 
of being thrust out of the way after flowering, as 
is not unusually done, the plants should occupy a 
greenhouse or pit fully exposed to the light and 
air; so treated they will get well ripened, on 
which their blooming well next year much de¬ 
pends. 

Lilies. —All Lilies in pots that have done 
flowering should have the soil kept fairly moist 
so long as the leaves continue green, and where 
any require repotting it is no bad way to shift 
them as soon as all vitality has left the top. 
If this plan was strictly followed with all 
pot Lilies, the work would not be delayed 
until the bulbs have begun to make new roots, 
the injury to which through removal is the cause 
of many failures that occur in the pot culture of 
Lilies. Young plants of the noble L. giganteum 
that are intended to bloom in pots must not 
during any period of their growth be kept too 
much confined at the roots, or the result will 
be small size and a deficiency of strength at 
blooming time. Although hardy and thriving 
well in the open ground in some places, this 
stately plant will grow to a much larger size and 
produce a greater quantity of flowers under liberal 
t treatment. When so managed and well cared 
■, it is one of the noblest objects that can be 
used for conservatory decoration. Strong plants 
for next year’s blooming should be placed for 
the winter in about 12-inch pots, and then moved 
on into others considerably larger. 

Tritoniah. —If the cultivation of these hand¬ 
some free-flowering bult>3 was more extended, 
they would do something to relieve the monotony 


too often existent in greenhouses at this season. 
The orange-coloured variety is best known, but 
there are several others worth growing, vary¬ 
ing in shade from white to pink, with others 
combining red and yellow. All are easily grown, 
simply requiring under pot culture not to have 
tlie pots too much crowded with bulbs (which 
results in their getting too weak to bloom 
well), keeping the drainage right, and never 
allowing them to get dry at the roots either in the 
early stages of growth or after blooming whilst 
the leaves are fresh. To guard against slugs, to 
which tlie foliage is favourite food, the plants 
through the growing season should be plunged in 
a bed of sifted coal ashes. If a portion of tho 
stock has been kept through the early part of 
summer at the north side of a wall, they will 
come in after those that have been exposed to 
the sun. 

Early - flowering Hyacinths and other 
bulbs should be procured without delay. On pot¬ 
ting Roman Hyacinths and Tulips early depends 
the possibility of having them in bloom early. 
Where white sweet scented flowers are largely in 
demand about the end of the year there should be 
no stint in the number of Roman Hyacinths, 
for, as is well known, it is one of the best forcing 
plants grown. It can bo used for all purposes, in¬ 
cluding bouquet making, for which Lily of the 
Valley can be employed. At this season the pots 
containing the bulbs are best plunged in coal 
ashes or Cocoa-nut fibre in an open situation fully 
exposed to the sun. Under such conditions the 
bulbs will naturally make roots more quickly 
than where there is less warmth, and upon a suffi¬ 
ciency of roots being made before forcing begins 
depends the ability of the bulbs to flower well. 
—T. B. 

Flower Garden. 

Propagation. —So far as regards the tender 
section of plants, it is of the utmost importance 
that the necessary stock cf cuttings be put in 
forthwith. The soft-wooded tender kinds require 
a bottom heat of 80°, to produce which leaves and 
stable litter are best, and the cutting pots to be 
plunged in it, which, when the cuttings are 
rooted, should be transferred to an intermediate 
temperature, but with no bottom heat. It is now 
too late to put in cuttings of .Pelargoniums in 
the open border, as advised a few weeks since; 
they should, therefore, be put directly into boxes 
and be fully exposed to the sun until the nights 
become too cold to risk them out, then they 
must be given ordinary frame treatment. Calceo¬ 
larias are best struck in cold frames, and should 
be shaded and kept rather close till the cuttings 
are rooted, but afterwards be fully exposed to 
the atmosphere. Cuttings made from the yonng 
shoots of Pansies and Violas will strike readily 
without any protection; a north border having 
the protection of a wall is the best place, and 
any kind of light sandy soil will do, provided the 
cuttings be made firm in it. Of course, if pits 
or frames are at command, preference should be 
given to striking them in these, that protection 
may be afforded the plants in the event of its 
being needed by the severity of winter. The 
new white Viola—Mr. Grey—has done well with 
us, and is worthy of being classed as one of the 
most valuable of white-flowered bedding plants. 
True Blue and Yellow Dwarf are also first-rate 
new kinds, the best old varieties still being Bine 
Bell, Mulberry, and Snowflake. Hardy Semper- 
vivums are best propagated by offsets, which are 
now to be had in abundance; plant them firmly 
at distances according to size on any dry bank 
or border, well water them, and protect with 
netting to prevent them being pulled up by 
birds. The tender kinds must be increased by 
cuttings, which strike best on exposed shelves 
in houses or pits. The offsets from Echeveria 
secunda we strike and winter by building them 
up in the soil against the walls of the fruit and 
plant house; but in cold districts frames are 
necessary to successful wintering, and in such 
case it is best that the offsets be placed in frames 
at once. All other kinds of bedding succulents 
need warmth, not a moist warmth, to ensure a 
good strike. 

General work. —Beds should be kept in 
neat condition by removing bad flowers and 
pinching and stopping the plants to preserve 
the outlines of the designs of carpet beds. Tall 
and top-heavy plants should be supported by 
ties and stakes; climbers also should be regu¬ 
lated and their fastenings examined ; Roses be 
kept free of old blossoms, and lately budded 


288 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sbft. 1, J883. 


Briers be examined as to the ligatures, some of 
which may need to be slackened, and others, 
those on which the buds are growing well, be 
removed altogether, and the stocks kept free of 
Brier shoots. The season for planting shrubs 
and trees being at hand, preparation should be 
made for the same by getting together the 
necessary soil and implements. After the first 
heavy rain the sooner evergreens are removed 
the better will they succeed, and will get so 
thoroughly established in the soil before spring 
that watering will not be needed, which labour 
is inevitable in all spring planting. Mowing 
lawns, sweeping and rolling walks after rain, 
the cutting of turf edgings, and the keeping 
down weeds in shrubberies, come, of course, in 
the daily routine of garden work.—W. \V. 

Floweb beds and borders. —Attend to re¬ 
moving dead flowers and leaves from beds and 
borders; by this means they will be rendered 
attractive and enjoyable for at least a month to 
come. The mixed or herbaceous border should 
now have careful attention, as Phloxes, Pent- 
stemons, and many other late autumnal flowers 
will now be in full beauty, and should not be in 
any degree marred or disfigured by being as¬ 
sociated with the decaying flowers and foliage 
of other occupants of the border, nor should such 
plants be by any means cut down prematurely, 
or in an unripened condition ; but, at the same 
time, all dead and decaying matter may be re¬ 
moved with advantage to them as well as to the 
general appearance of the garden. As regards 
annual plants, they should be at once removed 
as soon as their beauty is over, unless in cases 
where seed may be required, and this should be 
carefully picked as it becomes ripe. A border of 
herbaceous and Alpine plants and bulbs, whether 
situated upon the margins or belts of flowering 
and evergreen shrubs or otherwise, should be so 
arranged as to have the flowers peculiar to the 
different seasons so distributed throughout the 
entire length and breadth of the border that no 
part of it will, at any season of the year, be 
entirely destitute of flowering plants; and care 
should also be taken to properly graduate the 
various species as regards their height, so that 
dwarf-growing plants may not find themselves 
partially hid or overshadowed by taller-growing 
sorts. Bedsorclumps of double-flowered Zinnias 
are now in flue condition, and are most valuable 
as autumnal-flowering plants, and possess the 
power of resisting drought to a very considerable 
extent, especially if a deep, rich, and well- 
manured soil has been selected for them, and 
such encouragement they well deserve. They 
should be sown under glass, about the end of 
March or early in April, and should be planted 
out about the end of May. They may be planted 
tolerably close together, say about G inches or 8 
inches apart, and all inferior sorts should be 
extracted from the bed or clump as soon as they 
show flower; the space they occupied will soon 
be taken possession of by the remaining plants. 
Go carefully over the beds now and select a few 
of the very finest and most distinct blooms as 
seed-bearers, and mark them by securing to them 
pieces of coloured worsted or other material, and 
pick them as soon as they are ripe. By this 
means, the strain will be continually improved, 
while the reverse will be the case if the seeds are 
gathered indiscriminately. Let Chrysanthemums, 
German and other Asters, as well as all other 
late-flowering plants, be carefully staked to pre¬ 
vent them being blown down or injured by high 
winds. Order, or get in readiness, the various 
bulbs which will soon be required for furnishing 
the flower beds for spring. The cuttings of such 
plants as the Verbena, Petunia, Coleus, and 
Alternanthera, which may have been struck in 
close frames or pits, will now, in most instances, 
be well rooted, and the store pots or pans con¬ 
taining them should be placed on cinder ashes 
in the open air, fully exposed to the sun for 
some time, or as long as it can be done with 
safety; this will have the effect of rendering 
them robust and hardy, and it is of the greatest 
importance to have them in this condition before 
the approach of winter. Care must be taken 
not to expose them too long. 

Window Plants.— Remove plants that have 
done blooming, and always endeavour to have 
good healthy foliage if flowers are scarce. The 
Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums are among the best of 
all window plants; display them to advantage, 
and pick off seeds and decaying leaves from 
Tropseolum8. Balsam's and Asteib are now 

Co gie 


very pretty in windows, as are also some plants 
of Tagates and African Marigolds. Give plenty 
of water to plants of Creeping Jenny, and per¬ 
mit the shoots of the Virginian Creeper to droop 
in graceful festoons. Introduce a few Cocks¬ 
combs, yellow Calceolarias, Grasses, and any 
other miscellaneous plants obtainable. Indeed, 
a very pretty ornamentation in the window is 
the Japanese Maize grown in pots. Mesem- 
biyanthemums, too, are very useful for a dry 
position, and Gazania splendens for a sunny one. 
The various small-leaved Ivies, too, should not 
be forgotten; they are useful for suspended 
baskets, screens, or for spreading over balconies, 
and they grow and thrive under even adverse 
circumstances. Ferns and Selaginellas are also, 
as everybody knows, excellent for windows, 
especially those facing the north or east; and 
for windows facing the brightest sunshine, 
Acacia lopantha and other kinds of Acacia, 
some sorts of Asparagus, Convolvulus mauri- 
tanicus, Grasses, and other plants of that sort 
are suitable. 

Fruit. 

Vines. —Where the late houses were assisted 
with fire heat through the early part of the year, 
the Grapes will now be well coloured, but still 
far from ripe; consequently a continuance of 
gentle warmth, with liberal ventilation, until the 
foliage begins to lose its colouring matter, will 
be highly beneficial to such kinds as Lady 
Downes, Gros Colmar, and that invaluable 
variety Black Morocco, at some places a difficult 
Grape to manage; but when carefully fertilised, 
and well fed through the early stages of its 
growth, is undoubtedly the best early spring 
black Grape we have in cultivation. Unfor¬ 
tunately some failures, for which the manage¬ 
ment and not the Grape is to blame, have pre¬ 
vented many growers from introducing it, and 
the Grape has got a bad name; but as all zealous 
horticulturists wish to overcome difficulties, the 
following notes may be of service to those who 
have not hitherto done so, and wish to give it a 
trial. Although it does well under the same 
treatment as the Black Hamburgh, it finishes 
best in an intermediate house. With me the 
roots are in an internal border on the north side 
of a Muscat house. All the surplus bunches are 
taken oil before they come into flower, and those 
left are carefully fertilised for a few days in 
succession with Hamburgh pollen. When set, 
the border, which is above the floor line and well 
drained, is heavily mulched with rotten manure, 
and an abundance of warm, diluted liquid is 
applied to the roots until the Grapes begin to 
colour. Watering is then discontinued ; and to 
preventthe berries from cracking, lateral growths 
are allowed to extend in every direction until 
the Grapes are ripe. They are then shortened 
back, treated as any other winter Grape, and 
put in bottles in December. If the colouring pro¬ 
cess in the Lady Downes house has been aided 
by an unrestricted run of lateral growth, these 
may now be gradually brought into subjection 
by the constant removal of the strongest, but at 
no time must any part of the trellis be divested 
of a regular spread of the foliage of this excel¬ 
lent Grape, which so few grow to its best, be¬ 
cause they withhold a little fire heat in the 
spring and trust too much to cold, sunless 
summers. If, as is sometimes the case with 
vigorous young Vines, the Grapes do not show 
a disposition to colour well up to the footstalks, 
a moderate supply of diluted liquid ata tempera¬ 
ture of 90° will very often stimulate the interior 
surface roots into the action which will produce 
the desired result; but timely resting the Vines 
at night, not by shutting them up in a cold 
damp house, but by allowing a constant current 
of air to pass through the ventilators, and by 
keeping the pipes warm, is a very important 
factor in colouring and laying on the bloom. 

Melons.—L ate Melons to be worth eating 
should be set or setting by this time. Many 
attempts have been made to have ripe fruit up to 
Christmas, but all have ended in failure, if not 
something worse, as a Melon ripened after the 
middle of October, like a Salway Reach in No¬ 
vember, leaves a bad impression upon the palate, 
and in unfavourable fruit seasons, which unfor¬ 
tunately now prevail, this is by no means desi¬ 
rable. When writing some time back I advised 
growing all the late plants in pots, so placed 
that the roots would at once feel the benefit of 
fire heat when setting their fruit, and again later 
on when the Melons begin to ripen. Where this 


plan has been adopted, there will have been no 
difficulty experienced in getting plenty of fruit 
to set, provided other conditions were favourable. 
From this time forward give sufficient fire heat 
to maintain a night temperature of about 70°, 
with a rise of from 10° to 15° by day, but econo¬ 
mise fuel as much as possible by renovating the 
fermenting material whenever the bottom heat 
descends below 85°, and close very early with 
solar heat and plenty of atmospheric moisture 
to swell off the fruit. Avoid overcrowding, at 
all times disadvantageous, by the removal of all 
spray and laterals, but carefully preserve every 
old leaf from the rim of the pot upwards, as it 
is to these we must look for the finish of good 
fruit, independently of the fact that the ruthless 
destruction one sometimes see amongst them is 
very often the forerunner of canker and prema¬ 
ture death of the plants. Let the turning and 
renovation of linings about pits and frames have 
ceaseless attention, as good Melons without 
steady heat cannot be expected. Elevate the 
fruit well above the soil, as stagnant moisture is 
the greatest enemy to frame Melons after this 
time. Keep the foliage clean and healthy by 
syringing in favourable weather, and flood the 
beds with warm diluted liquid without wetting 
the leaves whenever the roots require water. 
Keep a close watch for canker, to which the 
tender hairy stemmed kinds are subject. Should 
any indications of canker appear, sulphur and 
quicklime should be applied to the affected parts 
without delay.—W. C. 

Vegetables. 

Unless where a deficiency of winter vegetables 
has been put in, and there are good strong plants 
at hand of Kale or Coleworts, it is not advisable 
to plant more of the ground that becomes vacant 
after this, as the time intervening before the 
growing season is over is not sufficient to admit 
of these late-planted crops attaining a useful 
size, and they seriously interfere with the pre¬ 
paration of the ground for another year without 
making any adequate return. Let all haulm of 
Peas, French and Broad Beans, or Lettuces that 
have run to seed, or anything of a similar 
description, as soon as they have ceased to bear, 
or to be of further use on the ground, be at once 
removed. It is a mistake to allow anything of 
this kind to remain, for so long as any growth 
continues, it is so much extracted from the soil 
to no purpose. They should therefore be con¬ 
veyed to the refuse-heap as soon as possible. 
Let all ground be well hoed as often as weeds 
make their appearance. These will not cease to 
spring for some time yet, growing, as they do, 
with a lower temperature than most cultivated 
crops. Where salads are in demand, especially 
in the spring, it is well now to sow a little Corn 
Salad and American Cress. These hardy plants 
will stand any amount of frost., and prove useful 
in the spring. Sow the seeds in rows 1 foot 
apart; this will give room to use the hoe in 
keeping the ground clean. Thin Turnips as 
they get large enough ; if allowed to remain too 
long they become drawn, which much interferes 
with their after growth. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 
Preparation for winter, that is to say, 
getting all kinds of plants well hardened or 
matured, and otherwise in proper condition to 
withstand the ordeal of the cold and dark season, 
is now of much more importance than the grow¬ 
ing principle. From the beginning of September 
little or no shading should be employed, except 
perhaps just a slight protection from sun for 
choice Fuchsias or other plants that have been 
grown more or less quickly, and whose beauty 
it is desirable to prolong. But to almost all 
plants that have finished flowering it is nearly 
impossible to admit too much sun and air. Pelar¬ 
goniums, and indeed any other kind of Gera¬ 
niums that were cut back some time ago, and 
have now broken into fresh growth in a rather 
close house or pit, should be shaken ou t and re¬ 
potted in fresh soil, placing them in as small 
pots as they can he got into fairly, be kept close 
for a little time longer, and when moviDg again 
gradually exposed to plenty of air and Bun. If 
kept slowly growing through the winter in a 
nice airy place, and shifted into flowering pots 
early in the new year, these will make fine early 
plants, with abundance of bloom, next season. 
Continue to put in all the cuttings that can be 
obteiined, particularly of zonal Eind other Pelar- 




Sept. I, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


28!) 


goniums of all classes. Pot now a batch of the 
beautiful white Roman Hyacinth for early 
flowering. These like a sound, loamy soil, en¬ 
riched with a good proportion of decayed manure 
and leaf soil, and a fair quantity of sand, i'lace 
three fine bulbs in a 44-inch pot, or four smaller 
ones. A 6-inch or 7-inch pot will take seven or 
nine bulbs; they always look better in amass 
than singly. When potted, do not water at all, 
but place on a solid bottom out-of-doors, and 
cover with 6 inches of ashes or Cocoanut-fibre. 

A few pots of Mignonette may be sown about 
the present time for flowering in winter. Ilo 
not fill the pots more than three-parts full of soil, 
so as to leave room for some top-dressing when 
the plants are up. Miles's Spiral Mignonette is 
much the best for pot work. It is not yet too 
late to sow Calceolarias and Cinerarias for next 
year. Still keep previous batches clean and 
growing. 

Early kinds of Chrysanthemums will now be 
forming their flower buds. To induce these to set 
well, keep the plants advancing by plentiful 
supplies of liquid manure and ammonia. 

II. C. It. 


SWEET SULTANS. 

The Sweet Sultans are not much grown in 
private gardens as a rule, but they have lately 
become quite a favourite market flower, the 
blooms being found so useful in a cut state. 
There are three colours in the Sweet Sultans — 
Oentaurea moschata (purple), C. moschata alba 
(white); and C. suaveolens (yellow). The two 
first produce the finest flowers, but all three are 
valuable annuals for supplying cut flowers during 
summer and autumn. Thoy are what gardeners 
call rather “miffy" in growth until wdl esta¬ 
blished, and they are also rather fastidious to 
please in the matter of soil. Aphides are very- 
partial to the young plants, and unless they are 
quickly cleared off the plants soon dwindle and 
die. The first essential to growth is proper soil, 
and to secure this it is necessary to mix lime 
rubble with such soil as is deficient in lime. 
< Irdinary garden soil well worked, and to which 
has been added old mortar, will grow Sweet 
Sultans well. The best time to sow the seed is 
about the middle of April, and the position 
should be open and unshaded. Sow the seed 
where the plants are intended to bloom, as, like 
other annuals which do not make a large amount 
of fibrous roots, they are yery impatient of being 
transplanted. After the seedlings are up they 
should be thinned out early, leaving three plants in 
each patch, giving them a space of 1 foot each. 
Water when necessary. Under this treatment 
the plants will yield a quantity of bloom during 
summer and autumn. 


FRUIT. 

Mealy bug on Vines —There are con¬ 
stantly so many inquiries as to the best means to 
be adopted to eradicate mealy bug on Vines, that 
I think it may be useful if I describe the 
measures which I adopted here with complete 
success. Our first attempt w as to get rid of them 
by hand-picking. I need hardly say this utterly 
failed ; so, as soon as the leaves had fallen from 
the Vines in autumn, we set to work and white¬ 
washed all t he walls, painted the pipes, and gave 
every part of the house a thorough cleansing. 
This being done, all the inside woodwork was 
painted with the strongest turpentine we could 
get, and the Vines pruned and dressed with 
Gishnrst compound—six ounces to one gallon of 
water, made into the consistency of thin paint 
with the aid of a lump of clay, and applied 
vigorously with a brush. The next season we 
found the number considerably reduced, and 
by constant band-picking we kept them pretty 
well under all the summer; but as they had only 
found a lodgment in the early vinery, and 
afraid that they would extend to the one 
adjoining, the next autumn we had the inside 
and out painted by onr regular tradesman ; the 
interior of the house was, of course, thoroughly 
cleaned as before, as well as the Vine rods. That 
is now six years ago, and we have not seen a bug 
on them since.—J. C. C. 

10161— OrapeB cracking.— The Chasselas 
Masque Grape is, by any description I have 
ever read of it, constitutionally liable to 
its berries cracking. Dr. Hogg, in his " Fruit 
Manual,'’ 


thus describejsU; •• A most delicious 
first-rate qi 


^lity.^t tr^l^os 



either in a cool or warm vinery; but the berries 
are very liable to crack, unless the Vine is 
growing in a shallow border and the roots and 
atmosphere of the house are kept moderately dry 
when the fruit is ripening." I have a plant of 
this kind growing out-of-doors and trained on a 
wall with a southern exposure. In my note 
book, under date of December 7, 1880,1 find the 
following entry respecting it; “Have opened a 
drain about 24 feet long in order to drain the 
ground in front of a Chasselas M usque Vine grow¬ 
ing on the wall opposite, the fruit having cracked 
last summer, owing, it is supposed, to too much 
moisture in the soil. Note effect of drain." This 


-If “ J. 8. E.” will examine the white 

powder or mealy substance with a fairly strong 
magnifying glass, he will find that it consists of 
perhaps a hundred or more young scales. He 
should therefore be very careful not to let this 
supposed powder fall on any other plant, or he 
will soon have his house full of scale. As to 
remedies, it is very difficult to dislodge scale by 
any syringing, because the insecticide does not 
get underneath the shell of the parent scale. I 
find finger and thumb the best remedy.— 
C. H. N. 

10203 —Strawberries —The best very early Straw¬ 
berry U Black Prince, followed by Ytcomtesxe Hericart 
de Thury, Keen * Seedling, President. Sir J. Paxton, Mr. 

, Kadclttfe, Progmore, Late Pine, ana last, Loxford Hall 

| Seedling -J. D. E. 


RE-MAKING A VINE BORDER. 

Vines may be lifted and replanted as soon as 
the wood is ripe, and before the foliage falls. 
If the roots have the run of external and internal 
borders, one of them may be taken out and re¬ 
made immediately after the last bunch of Grapes 
is cut, provided the work is carried out with 
despatch, and the house is properly supplied 
with warmth and moisture until new growth of 
the roots and laterals sets in. But in the event of 
the Vines having one border only, either inside or 
outside, then the lifting should be delayed until 
the foliage is losing its colouring matter, and the 
fruiting buds are properly made up and matured. 
This point having been disposed of, preparations 
should at once be made by obtaining a sufficient 


Flowers of Sweet Sultan (Centaurea moschata). Life size. Drawn August 2,1883. 


was done on November 12,1881, as follows; “ The 
Chasselas Musquos on the north wall did not 
crack in the berry more than some of the others 
did, even less so in some instances. This I 
attribute to the good effects of a drain alluded 
to under date of December 7, 1880."—J. M. 

10167.— Scale on Peaoh trees.— There is 
no better way to destroy this than to wash it off 
with a sponge and strong soapy water. We 
thought we had quite cleared it from our pot 
trees by band washing, but we found one tree 
among many badly attacked the other day, and 
not having time to wash it off, we burned the 
tree to stop its further progress. This is not 
necessary, as soft 6oap and patience will destroy 
it.—J. D. E. 


quantity of suitable turf from an old pasture, if 
procurable, and stacking it in the open air ready 
for chopping down when wanted for use; also a 
few loads of old lime rubble, charred refuse, or 
burnt earth—if burnt with wood, so much the 
better—and crushed bones, the lat ter in sufficient 
quantity to make 12 per cent, of the whole when 
mixed up. Good, clean drainage will also be 
needed, and as time is an important factor when 
the work is taken in hand, all these materials 
should be prepared and placed conveniently near 
before lifting is commenced. As the time fixed 
upon approaches, the first operation will be the 
mixing of the compost, which may be turned 
over once or twice to insure an equal distri¬ 
bution of the different materials, and thrown np 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 











21)0 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sept. 1, 1883. 


into a sharp ridge or cone, when it will most 
likely ferment, and be in the finest condition 
for use after it has lain for a week or ten days. 
In addition to the above, thin sods of newly cut 
turf equal to the superlicial area of the border 
will be needed for placing, grass side down¬ 
wards, over the drainage before the compost is 
wheeled in to the border, and a few loads of the 
same willdo good service in carrying up the retain¬ 
ing wall, provided a portion of the space originally 
allotted to the roots is to bo left for future ad¬ 
ditions. Although the practical gardener is alive 
to the importance of conducting every operation 
when the weather is dry and fine, it may not be 
out of place to inform the amateur that it is 
always better to defer the woik than to persist 
in carrying it on when the weather is against 
him. 

Lifting. —All the materials, including com¬ 
post, which should be protected from wet, turf, 
drainage and concretefor the bottom, being ready 
and close at hand, a good staff of men armed with 
steel forks should commence operations through¬ 
out the whole length of the front of the old 
border by carefully forking out the soil and re¬ 
moving it to a distance. Every root must be care¬ 
fully preserved and kept sprinkled with water if 
the day is bright and drying, and when the whole 
of the compost has been removed the roots may 
be Med up in bundles along the front of the house, 
well syringed, and protected with wet mats. 
Hitherto we have been engaged in the removal of 
inert matter, which has performed its work as 
far as Grape growing is concerned, and in the 
preparation of materials for building up a new 
border; and as the foundation of a Vine border is 
of very great importance, we will commence by 
directing attention to the drainage. If the old 
border has been any length of time in use, it 
will be well to turn the whole of the material 
formerly used for drainage quite out, as 
old roots and inert soil will have found their 
way into it. The cross drains running from 
the front of the house to the main drain along 
the front of the border area must next be ex¬ 
amined, and if they are not quite clear and the 
fall in every way satisfactory, no time must be lost 
in getting them corrected, as the concrete may 
require mending, and time to become firm should 
be allowed before the drainage is put in again. 
I ought to observe that all the cross drains 
should bo slightly depressed and concreted 
beneath the pipes, and the front or main drain 
should be 1 foot beneath the bottom of the 
border, well concreted, and filled up with clean 
broken stones, bricks, or clinkers. If the piece¬ 
meal system of making the border is adopted, 
0 feet, 8 feet, or 9 feet in width will be quite 
sufficient to commence with; and as.it will not 
be wise or necessary to cover more of the con¬ 
creted bottom with drainage than the width 
decided upon, strain a line parallel to the front of 
the house and build up the drainage all over the 
bottom to the height of 1 foot or more by setting 
all the largest and flattest stones on their edges 
and cover with the finest pieces, rough gravel or 
broken clinkers. 


Making the border.— If the day promises 
to be fine and suitable for working amongst new 
compost, commence by covering the drainage 
with a layer of thin turf, the Grass side being 
put next the stones, and with the same mate¬ 
rial raise the front or retaining wall some 
f, inches to 9 inches to form the boundary; 
then wheel in the compost, tread it mode¬ 
rately firm and even all over the bottom, add 
another 9 inches to the turf wall, fill in again, 
and now the bed will be ready for the first layer 
of roots. The mats which have been kept moist 
may now be removed from the roots, as the 
whole of them will have to be spread out and 
examined before they are covered with the soil. All 
the strongest maybe shortened back, and smaller, 
but not less valuable rootlets and fibres which 
have been twisted or in any way injured must 
also be cut back with a sharp knife to clean 
sound wood, and laying may be proceeded with; 
but if the roots are numerous and good, the 
whole of them must not be spread out in one 
layer like a piece of ham in a sandwich : all the 
lowest roots must betaken first, covered slightly, 
and made firm and even until all of them have 
been relaid, the first layer being 9 inches to 12 
inches below the surface and the last quite close 
to it. The whole of the border may then be sur¬ 
faced and made level with a slope to the front 
and well covered yritb fresh stabltf manure to 
keep in surface mo; 


v ^ j ^p|>roaches 


the covering must be increased to make the roots 
secure from frost, and old lights or shutters will 
do good service in throwing off cold rain and 
snow. 

Management op the house.— If the 
weather is bright and dry when lifting is com¬ 
menced, it will be well to shut off fire-heat and 
keep tlie house quite close, moist, and regularly 
syringed, audit may be shaded through the day, 
otherwise the root supply of moisture being cut 
off, the foliage will soon flag, and this, if possible, 
should be prevented, as the stored-up sap will 
greatly facilitate the formation of new roots, 
which should become active before the Vines go 
to rest. For some time after lifting it will be 
necessary to keep the old leaves fresh by 
occasional syringing and damping, and when, 
by their sharp, crisp appearance and the form¬ 
ation of fresh laterals, however trilling, it be¬ 
comes evident that the roots are again at work, 
air may bo admitted, syringing discontinued, and 
the Vines allowed to go to rest. W. C. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Continued from page 261.) 

The Ranunoulus. 

The llanuncnlus of the florist is a near relative 
of the Buttercnp of the meadow,and which grows 
so luxuriantly in cool, damp bottoms. Its great 
beauty during growth and its usefulness for cut¬ 
ting ought to make it a popular favourite, but 
somehow it is not, only in the sense that every¬ 
body admires, but there arc few cultivators. The 
truth is, I suppese, the Persian or Asiatic Ranun¬ 
culus and its many hybrid forms, though not 
difficult to grow, yet demands a treatment 
different to the ordinary run of popular flowers. 
Like the Buttercup, it. thrives best where the 
subsoil is cool and moist; and this coolness and 
moisture is supplied by the methodical florist in 
this way. Having selected the site for the bed, 
he marks out its culture, digs out 15 inches of 
the soil, taking away to another place the bad, 
if any. On the bottom of the excavation a layer 
of cow manure, moist and rich, is laid, and from 
4 inches to G inches in thickness. On the top of 
this the bed is prepared by adding fresh loam to 
the best of the soil excavated, if the latter 
is fairly suitable. And as a goodly number of 
varieties may be grown on a moderate sized 
bed, the objection to the extra trouble only 
comes from the luke-warm and those who lack 
enthusiasm. The bed should be prepared during 
winter, and the surface should be left rough for 
the weather to work its will upon. In February, 
about the first or second week, according to the 
weather, level the surface down, rake it smooth, 
and draw drills with the corner of a hoe 3 inches 
deep and (i inches apart. Scatter a little light 
compost along the drills consisting of sharp 
sand and leaf-mould, and on this place the 
roots 4 inches apart, and rake the beds smooth 
again. Some people plant in autumn, and no 
doubt the autumn-planted beds flower earlier 
than those planted in spring. But the winter, 
when severe, often injures the plants, and the 
beds look patchy. Still, in warm, dry situations, 
autumn planting succeeds very well in careful 
hands. The Ranunculus, when planted in 
spring, commences growth at once, and speedily 
shows above ground. If watering is necessary, 
which in most seasons during spells of dry 
weather it will be, do not wet the foliage more 
than can be avoided, bnt pour the wat er between 
the rows. A light mulching will be beneficial 
if the weather continues dry. As soon as the 
flowers begin to expand a shade should be 
erected over the bed if they are to appear at 
their best; and as the flowering is past and the 
growth ripened, or say towards the end of July, 
lift and store them away, but beforo doing bo, 
separate any roots that may seem to require it, 
as they are then less likely to break than when 
quite dry. They should be packed away in a 
dry, cool place to keep them in a nice, fresh con¬ 
dition. 

The Tulip. 

Florists’ Tulips are generally divided into four 
main sections:— 

1. Rkarres, which have a yellow ground, 
shaded witii dark rod or purple; these, again, 
are sub-divided, according to the markings. If 
the red or purple rise from the bottom of the 
1 petal in a broad stripe or band, it is said to be 


“ flaked,” but if the dark colour forms an edging 
round the margin of the petals, and at the same 
time descends them in a series of little delicate 
feathery veins, it is said to be “feathered.” 

2. Bjblreinens, which have white grounds, 
shaded with dark purple, and which are also, as 
in the preceding section, sub divided into flamed 
and feathered forms. 

3. Roses. —White grounds, shaded with rose 
colour or cherry red, and which are also grouped 
in two sub-sections, as flaked and feathered. 

4. Selfs , being cither alpine yellow or white. 
The beds for Tulips should be prepared by turn¬ 
ing over and intermixing towards the end of 
September or earlier, if not occupied with other 
plants. Loam and manure should be well 
blended with the soil of the bed. The offsets 
and the small bulbs may be planted in October, 
and the main bed of flowering bulbs in Novem¬ 
ber, picking a suitable opportunity when the 
soil works freely. Each bulb should have a 
space of 8 inches or 9 inches square, and they 
may either stand quincunx fashion or be lined 
each way. The bulbs should be covered about 
4 inches deep. A good deal of care and atten¬ 
tion is necessary to obtain the successful results 
which are generally secured by the florist who 
makes the Tulip a specialty. Everything that 
may lead to damp and decay is removed from 
the little spear-shaped green heads as they 
emerge from the soil, and none but those who 
have experienced similar feelings can tell how 
anxiously they are watched for to see if any are 
missing in the long ranks ranged with mathe¬ 
matical precision along the bed. Then as the 
days lengthen, and the cold becomes more 
intense, what troubles are encountered in finding 
and applying shelter, so that not a leaf may be 
discoloured. Tulips are and may be cultivated 
without all this trouble, but nothing but the best 
will satisfy the enthusiast. As the flower-spikes 
advance they must be supported in some way, 
but the ties should not be too tight. Though the 
Tulip mania is never likely to return again, still 
a good seedling Tulip is wortli money, and even 
if it was not, seedlings would be raised from a 
love of the work and the interest which it in¬ 
spires. The crossing of two good flowers will be 
productive of something good. All flowers 
operated on should be distinctively marked. 
When the flowering is over, the seed gathered, 
and the growth ripened, the bulbs should be 
taken up and placed in some dry, airy 
room or building to finish off their ripening, 
preparatory to being sorted, cleaned, and 
put away till planting time comes round 
again. I have only given the merest out¬ 
line to meet the wants of the cultivator who 
simply wants a showy bed. To obtain quality 
of flower and correctness of marking, too much 
manure should not be used, still the soil should 
be rich, mellow, and sweet, and during the 
growing season the surface of the bed should be 
frequently stirred. 

Routine Work. 

To manage a garden successfully, there must be 
method and routine, for people who do things in 
a hapazard kind of way never succeed, or at 
least never obtain that full measure of success 
which is granted to the methodical man. Year 
after year, as spring follows winter, and summer 
and autumn complete the circle of the seasons, 
each period brings its work, which if neglected 
tends to drive things into a corner, from which 
there is no extrication without making a sacrifice. 
Some people think and say there is not much to 
do in a garden in winter, bnt there are many 
operations of a preparatory character which can 
only be profitably done at that season. The 
trenching or deepening of the beds and borders 
is specially winter work. The transplanting of 
decidnous trees and shrubs, the relaying of turf, 
the making and renewal of gravel walks and 
roads, and many other operations, can be 
done better in winter than summer, and 
have a great influence upon the appearance and 
comfort of the place. Take, for instance, gravel 
paths and roads. If in bad condition, the place 
always wears a neglected look, which nothing 
can remove till the omission is made good. In 
some places new gravel comes expensive, bnt if 
the worn path is turned over with a steel fork, 
and a few stones placed beneath the worn place 
to lift it up a little, the walk will be placed in 
as good condition as new without any expense 
beyond the labour. Walks that are turned over 



Sept. 1, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


291 


annually, if they contain from 4 inches to 5 inches 
in depth of gravel, will always be in good repair 
and have a fresh, bright, clean surface if well 
rolled when damp. The surface of the path 
should be put into shape, with the right inclina¬ 
tion to throw off the rain to the sides, as soon as 
the gravel has been turned; and it should be 
made firm first by treading, afterwards by draw¬ 
ing a heavy roller over it several times, till the 
whole has become hard and firm. With a little 
attention afterwards the walks may be kept in 
good condition, and the weeds in a well managed 
walk are less troublesome than when the surface 
is uneven and damp from wear. Again, routine, 
or the art of doing the right thing at the right 
time, is always noticeable in the proper manage¬ 
ment of 

The Turf of the Lawn. 

A rough, coarse, weedy lawn is always a 
trouble and an eyesore. Moss may not be so 
objectionable if there is not too much of it, but 
where the roller and the mowing machine is used 
with care and judgment. Moss will not accumu¬ 
late to an injurious extent. There are places, 
such as under trees where the shade is dense 
and the Grass will not grow, where the presence 
of Moss is useful and agreeable ; but, generally 
speaking, in an open lawn, the presence of Moss 
is a sign of poverty in the soil, or else draining 
is required : and when we consider that in the 
majority of gardens the mowing machine goes 
its weekly round, cutting the Grass down close 
to the roots, and in dry weather almost stubbing 
them up, is it any wonder that the Grasses die 
and wear out, and that Moss takes their place l 

In most gardens, especially those of small or 
moderate extent, the mowing machines are set 
too low. The lawn would look better if the Grass 
was not cut quite so short. If the Grass was 
left, say an inch long, the roots of the plants 
would feel comfortable under the shade pro¬ 
vided, and would not burn so quickly' at the 
approach of the first spell of bright sunshine. So 
self-evident is this, that some have adopted the 
plan of setting the machine to cut a little 
higher. It is only a question of dropping the 
rollers in front of the cutters (and most machines 
are provided with these now) down a little. The 
machine will work easier, and the lawn will look 
bet ter. There will be a saving of wear and tear, 
and the result will be more satisfactory. The 
American system of scattering the out Grass 
over the lawn does not answer in our climate, as 
it encourages the weeds, especially the Daisies, 
to a most alarming extent. Top-dressings of 
wood ashes and soot are exceedingly beneficial 
to a weakly turf; and though a thick turf may 
not need extra support, yet in the course of time, 
even on the best soils, some help must he given 
in the shape of manure, for a system of close 
cutting, and taking everything away and 
bringing nothing back,must in time have an ex¬ 
haustive etfect; and if help is given in time, very 
light dressings in winter will suffice to keep the 
turf in good order. 


Manuring Flower Beds. 

Flowers need support as much as vegetables, 
and many flowering plants take a good deal out 
of the soil. Hut too often the necessity for 
manuring is overlooked till the plants become 
weakly. A stitch in time saves nine, in this as 
in all other matters. I generally give a light, 
dressing of manure every autumn, when the 
bedding plants are cleared off. beds that are 
devoted solely to bedding-out should have the 
manorial dressing to suit the succeeding crops. 
Verbenas, Asters, Stocks, kc., require to bo 
treated liberally, but a very light dressing 
will suffice for Geraniums, as, if the beds are 
too rich, the plants grow too much at the expense 
of the blossoms. If all the waste matters from 
the flower garden are saved and placed in some 
receptacle where a slow decomposition takes place, 
a suffic ent accumulation of manure will be had 
for the annual dressing without aid from 
any other source. The best plan is to dig a hole 
in some secluded corner, and taka everything 
usually classed as rubbish and cast it on to it. 
Towards the autumn turn it over and intermix, 
adding a little lime and soot. This is an excel¬ 
lent compost for all kinds of herbaceous plants, 
aim for top-dressing the rockery; in fact, when 
thoroughly decomposed, it will not come amiss 
anywhere if help be needed. 

TV struggle with insect*, must be inaessant. 
There must be no res] * 




season if the plants are to appear at their best. 
One of the best modes of fighting insects is to 
encourage the plant to make a strong, vigorous, 
healthy growth. There is something about a 
healthy plant insects do not like; they may hover 
round it, but they make no effectual lodgment, 
whilBta plant a little delicate is overwhelmed at 
once. Health is largely a question of diet, and 
a large amount of trouble in physicing and 
killing insects would be saved if the habits of 
the plants were studied and the right kind of 
food provided in sufficient quantities. But in a 
climate so variable as ours, I grant even well 
nourished plants do sometimes fall a prey to in¬ 
sects, and it becomes necessary to attack them. 
The aphides are the most numerous and the 
most troublesome. There are maggots, and 
weevils, and beetles, which affect certain plants, 
and nibble away at their leaves, but they do not 
come in such numbers, nor multiply so fast, as 
the little bothering flies do, which settle on the 
young shoots and foliage and suck out its life¬ 
blood if not speedily dislodged. Luckily, if 
taken in time, before the curling foliage encloses 
them in, they are easily destroyed. Tobacco is 
death to them instantly, either as a wash or in 
powder. The wash can be obtained from the 
manufactory at about a shilling per gallon, and 
one gallon will make six strong enough to kill 
aphides when applied with the sponge. A 
little soft soap may be added, and soft soap 
alone. Two ounces to the gallon will be suffi¬ 
cient in light cases, but a good deal depends 
upon taking up the matter in time, when the 
first fly appears—hence the need for watchful¬ 
ness. The number of insecticides are endless, 
but if one did not mind a little extra labour, a 
good syringe or garden engine and a supply of 
clean water would suffice if the first suggestion 
I made of feeding the plants well was generally 
acted on. Tobacco dust or powder is a very good 
and cheap insecticide, and is easily applied. 
Too often a feeling of carelessness is present— 
a procrastinating habit—which puts off till to¬ 
morrow what ought to be done to-day. And to 
make a liquid wash requires time and trouble. 
Perhaps there is no hot water handy to dissolve 
the soap, or something or other stands in the 
way; but with the powder, the thing is handy 
and so easily and quickly applied, that a man 
without sustained purpose can get through it. 
Gishurst compound, 3 ounces to the gallon, 
dissolved in warm water, and applied through 
the syringe; or Quassia chips, 3 ounces to the 
gallon, immersed in boiling water, will kill all 
kinds of aphis cheaply ; but, as I said before, 
to prevent is better than to cure, and the pre¬ 
ventive measures should all tend to the encour¬ 
agement of growth. 

Watering and Mulching. 

A supply of water is a necessity in gardening. 
Of late years the watering-pot has not been 
called into use so much as formerly; but doubt¬ 
less in due course sunshine and warmth will 
come again, but. except in the case of recently 
planted things, or plants grown in pots or in a 
limited root space, watering is not an unmixed 
good—indeed, in some hands it might do harm. 
On a porous soil we are obliged to water when 
hot weather sets in, but it is as well to defer it 
as long as possible, and to this end mulching 
comes in most fittingly. Now, mulching may be 
done in various ways. Where plants need more 
nourishment than ordinary water contains, a 
covering of manure over the surface two or three 
inches thick will give it, and at the same time 
keep the earth cool and moist by arresting the 
escape of the water by evaporation in the usual 
way. A mulch of short Grass, Cocoa-fibre, tan, 
sawdust, partly decomposed, and other sub¬ 
stances of a like nature, has a value in hot 
seasons when the earth is baked and parched 
with drought. A still simpler form of mulch 
is to keep a couple of inches of the surface-soil 
loose by frequent stirring. Where the land has 
been kept in good heart and deeply cultivated, 
this mulch of loose surface-soil is very efficient. 
But still, with all these aids to good cultivation, 
during a prolonged drought many things may 
require watering, and when this becomes neces- 
snry, do it in the evening and do it thoroughly, 
i e., water until the roots are all moistened, and 
then the next morning early take a Dutch hoe 
and loosen up the surface to keep the ground 
from baking and cracking, and letting all the 
water escape directly the rays of a hot sun 
strikes upon it. Too much watering washes 


away all the fertility from the soil; therefore 
if it should be necessary during hot weather to 
water anything very often, liquid manure should 
be given every third watering to keep Hie land 
from deteriorating, or else the beds should be 
mulched with manure, but in writing about 
insects attacking plants severely, I laid much 
stress upon the value of good culture as an aid 
to vigour, and a consequent freedom from such 
attacks; and the same principle holds good in 
the case of plants suffering from drought. 
Deepen the soil by every available means. This 
is work that can be done in winter. When some 
people think nothing can be done in the garden, 
the good cultivator is thinking about collecting 
materials for giving a greater depth of soil to 
the poor or shallow beds, to enable the plants 
growing in them to withstand heat and drought 
in the future, and scarcely anything comes amiss 
if it will decay. The scourings of ditches mixed 
with lime is a good dressing for poor, shallow 
soils. The dressing should, as far as possible, 
supply what is lacking in the bed or border; 
thus, light materials may be given to heavy soil, 
and vice-versa. A celebrated artist, we are told, 
when asked what he mixed his colours with, 
replied, “ With brains, sir ; ” and the exercise of 
the principle which is implied here is required, 
perhaps, in the cultivation of the soil more fre¬ 
quently than in any other occupation of life; 
and when we consider that the chief necessities 
of life, the food and clothing, are obtained by the 
cultivation of the earth’s surface, and that m en 
of commerce, who look upon themselves as the 
salt of the earth, are only middlemen or agents 
between the producer and consumer — if wo 
have a right appreciation of these things, we 
shall see how important it is for us to know 
something abont the structure and character of 
the soil, so as to be better able to supply to it 
what is lacking. 

Planting Flowers. 

Plants feel pain when ill-used, or at least they 
show symptoms of suffering when any of the 
conditions under which they usually live when 
in health are absent or imperfectly carried out. 
In planting out anything that hits been growing 
in a pot—and nurserymen, for the convenience 
of removal, keep a large number of things in 
pots which under other circumstances would 
not be potted—if it is possible to open out tho 
roots a bit before planting if the plant is intended 
to have any degree of permanency, it would he an 
advantage. In planting out a tree or shrub, for 
instance: if the ball has been confined to a 
small pot, and it is committed to the ground 
without opening up a little, the chances are 
that, even if the soil and situation is in all 
respects suitable, the tree will not have a 
long life, or get sufficient grasp of the soil to 
stand much wind pressure. Young plants that 
have been kept steadily moving on in pots start 
at once when turned out. The real evils of potting 
are only found when tho plants get what is 
termed pot-bound, and the roots from long resi¬ 
dence in a small pot assume a spiral or cork¬ 
screw form, which they seldom lose even when 
planted ontunderthemost favourable conditions. 
Therefore, in buying trees or shrubs in pots, it 
should beseen that the roots, are in a fresh, healthy 
condition. In case of soft-wooded plants this 
objection does not apply, or at least only to a 
limited extent. It is true that an old pot- 
bound Geranium dees not transplant so well as 
a young one, bat that is simply the fulfilment of 
a law of nature which applies with equal force 
to all living things. Plants have such a large 
amount of recuperative force, that even if in 
transplanting less intelligence and care is 
brought to bear than the case requires, beyond a 
little time wasted in starting no harm seems to 
be done if the treatment is right afterwards. But. 
in looking at a person planting them it is easy to 
sec if there is any bond of sympathy between the 
planter and the living things ho is operating on. 
And when plants fail to thrive, the reason should 
be sought for in the treatment they have received, 
and no mere mechanical worker will be so suc¬ 
cessful as the one who has learned to love the 
tender things he works and cares for. Love is 
continually seeking for opportunities of doing 
good to tile thing it cares for. The mechanic 
simply sticks it in and forgets all about it. In 
the simple operation of making a hole in the 
ground and planting a Geranium, there is more 
in it than appears on the surface to the casual 
observer. The hole mast be of the right depth 



292 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sept. I, 1883. 


and width, and the right amount of pressure 
must be brought to bear. Some time ago I was 
looking over a garden fence at a man planting; 
he was anxious to get his job over, being, as I 
expect, paid by the piece. Very often in his 
hurry he made the holes t<5o shallow, and then 
tried by an extra amount of pressure upon the 
ball to drive it home; but planting a flower is 
not like loading a gun, and it generally resents 
such tteatment. The hole should be deep enough 
and of sufficient capacity to take in the ball 
comfortably. Sufficient pressure to fix the plant 
in the ground firmly is necessary, but it should 
not be applied so roughly as to run the risk of 
breaking up the ball, which would rupture the 
roots and be a serious check upon progress. 

E. Hobday. 


IMPROVING CLAY SOIL. 

0966.—This query should have been sent before 
the house was taken, then. Punch's advice to 
persons about to marry—“ don't ”— would have 
been extremely applicable. A garden should 
never be taken on a soil of stiff intractable clay 
unless permanent residence is intended, for it will 
take twoorthree years'cultivation to bring it into 
a state suitable for the making of a good garden, 
unless the ground has been farm land under 
the plough. I know several building estates 
near London where the ground was old pasture 
land, but where not only the top turfy spit—so 
valuable for gardening—has been removed, but 
several feet of soil partly broken up by the 
weather, so that raw, stiff clay of the consistency 
of fat American cheese is left for garden ground 
to the unfortunate occupiers of the houses. 
Something of this must have been done to 
“ Clay Ground’s ” garden, or there would have 
been a little workable soil above the clay. 

The first thing to be done is to break up the 
ground two spits deep. This can be managed 
with rather a small spade which contractors' 
labourers in London use expressly for the stiff 
London clay. The soil should be cut in rather 
thin slices and thrown up rough. The two best 
agencies for breaking up clay are frost and 
drought; when as dry as a brick, a piece of stiff 
clay falls to powder if just damped through, and 
when frozen through the same thing takes place 
with a dry thaw. When reduced to powder by 
either of these agencies the clay should be im¬ 
mediately mixed with something that will keep 
it from running together again, otherwise it 
will become almost as solid as ever when 
wet. Lime, old mortar, sand, road scrapings, 
charred refuse, coal ashes, and burnt earth are 
all useful for this purpose. Whatever is mixed 
with the clay should be thoroughly mixed so 
that the soil produced is of one texture through¬ 
out. After the soil is got into a workable state, 
it should be liberally manured with old rotten 
manure. Roses may then be planted, but other 
planting should consist of Phloxes and Delphi¬ 
niums, Tritomas, Geum coccineum plenum, and 
such annuals and biennials as (Sweet Peas,(Stocks, 
Godetias, Clarkias, and (Sweet Williams ; these 
last should stand at least 2 feet apart; they 
grow to a great size if the soil is dressed with 
soot. It is useless making a lawn on clay with¬ 
out the soil being made so light that it will not be 
caked hard. One important item in a clay 
garden is drainage. Stiff clay is almost imper¬ 
vious to water, and if the garden is level, the 
rain-water sinks to the untouched clay and gets 
no further. A great part of my present garden 
is a very stiff loam, which, though sandy, is 
almost impervious to water. When I took pos¬ 
session it was completely water-logged; there 
was light soil on the surface, then a foot or so 
of gravel and stones, then the heavy loam, 
which any previous cultivation had never 
reached, except here and there where the gravel 
was absent. To dig was like cutting a juicy 
fruit. The gravel was full of filthy, stagnant 
water. The kitchen garden had been well 
stocked with fruit trees and bush plants, but 
everything was prematurely old. Pear trees 
almost dead, Apple trees with their stems 
bursting with canker, like a badly-cooked 
sausage. Gooseberries and Currants decrepit 
and covered with lichen ; the only thriving thing 
was the Raspberries. 

With the gravel and stones made into drains, 
and the stiff but workable loam brought to the 
surface, the change was magical. The fruit 
trees and bushes took a fresh lease of life ; two 
Tear trees, alm<j^t~Jo^K^ sen^jjj^ong fresh 


branches which at length blossomed and bore a 
crop, and even a Ribston Pippin tree, which was 
almost dead, sent up a shoot from the graft, 
amongst several from the stock, and will make 
a tree in time. A drain should be made through 
the garden to a depth of a foot beneath the 
cultivated soil, and filled with stones, old jam 
pots, bottles, and similar refuse. The above 
described cultivation is the only way in which 
very stiff clay can be made suitable for a garden. 
Other methods merely extend the improving 
process over a longer space of time. Spreading 
lighter material over the surface I have seen 
recommended, but that is useless where the soil 
is so stiff as to be unworkable. Clay contains 
most nutriment of all soils. A recent analysis 
proves a foot of clay soil will produce fifty crops 
of Wheat without manure. The reason why clay 
soils are barren is because the roots of few plants 
can penetrate them, and so the plants starve in 
the midst of plenty. The roots of plants are of 
all grades of strength and thickness from the 
fine hair-like roots of Rhododendrons and Heaths, 
to the strong piercers of Ranunculus repens, the 
common creeping Buttercup, which are almost 
as thick and stiff as a quill pen. The first part 
of the root to form is the tip which is hard 
and sometimes angular, but all further growth 
takes place immediately behind that hard point, 
and pushes that into the soil. This growth takes 
place in a spiral form, so that the roots pierce 
the soil with exactly the action of a gimlet. 

Whether plants thrive in a garden or not de¬ 
pends almost as much on the texture of the soil, 
and its capacity for retaining moisture, as on 
the amount of food they receive in the form of 
applied manure. Nature’s cultivation of a clay 
soil consists of first breaking it up by penetra¬ 
ting it with the strong tap roots of Docks, Dande¬ 
lions, &c., which admit air and water when they 
decay, and make room for weaker rooting plants. 
The worms eat the leaves and make a surface of 
mould by means of their casts. The dust of dry 
earth and decaying vegetation is arrested by the 
plants, and an amelioration of the soil is thus 
gradually produced. J. D. 


MAKING A TENNIS LAWN. 

The following ways of making lawn-tennis 
grounds naturally suggest themselves: 1. The 

adaptation of an existing field or lawn for the 
purposes of the game. 2. The laying down of 
turf to form a lawn. 3. The making of a 
lawn by sowing Grass seeds. 

1. Having determined upon the particular 
portion of the field, the first work to be done will 
be to roll it as soon after rain as may be, with a 
heavy smooth agricultural roller. This will gene¬ 
rally level the lawn sufficiently, at least as a first 
process. This done two or three times will then 
show if there are any serious uprisings or lumps, 
or, on the other band, hollows or depressions. If 
the latter, I should advise that the turf be lifted 
from such sunken parts, which should be filled up 
wit h some good garden Boil. This should be rolled 
down to a smaller extent by a somewhat heavy 
garden roller, and when pretty firm the farm 
implement may be applied, as it will perhaps 
smooth down the hillocks to a level with the 
mended-up depressions ; if not, it may be that 
the turf should be lifted beneath these slight 
hillocks, some of the earth removed, and the turf 
pressed into place. In operations of this kind, 
wherever the turf has been cut, it is well to sift 
some fine mould over the parts before the rolling 
is performed—at least for the first time the 
roller is used. The rolling will soon show if 
there be any hard-rooted tussacky kind of Grass 
or other plants interfering; if so, they should 
be removed, and the same finely sifted earth 
restored, and a very small quantity of fine Grass 
seeds sown on the bare spots before the roller 
be used. I started a lawn in this way in our 
home meadow, and it is now in perfect order, 
all fine Grass, and very smooth; albeit there is 
a slight slope across the lawn, but I rather put 
up with it than try to make a perfect level, as 
the time and expense to effect this are often 
pretty considerable. 

2. If I have to make a lawn where there is no 
Grass, I should prefer laying down turves to 
effect the work. In doing this care has to be 
taken to make the base as level and solid as 
possible ; this is done by filling up and paring 
down, which should be done with care while the 
turves are being got ready. In this matter great 

1 care should be exercised; choice should be made 


from some nice even and fine Grass, which 
should be cut of uniform size and thickness, laid 
and stamped down with the utmost care, and 
when the turves are laid, fine rich mould Bhould 
be sifted over the whole, especially over the 
joints. This, if dry weather supervenes, should 
be watered. At first light rollers should be 
used, to be succeeded by heavier ones. I have 
aided in a cricket ground and a lawn-tennis 
ground upon this plan, and have had occasion 
for congratulation on the success of the work. 
If well done, it is certainly the quickest and 
most efficacious way of planting a lawn, whether 
for lawn-tennis, croquet, or cricket. 

3. Of course, lawns may be well made by pre¬ 
paring the soil, then levelling and sowing down 
with Grass seeds, which should be well rolled 
down. If only a temporary lawn is required, the 
best Grass to sow will be Poa annua (Annual 
Meadow Grass). This should be sown somewhat 
thickly; it comes up quickly, bears clipping 
well, and, if not allowed to flower, it will become 
almost a permanent Grass. I wonder this Grass 
is not used more than it is to mend up abraded 
walks, or for any like purpose where Grass is 
temporarily required. 

If the lawn, as is mostly the case, is to be per¬ 
manent, less of the Poa should be used ; but its 
quantity should be made up with the following 
proportions: Poa annua (Annual Meadow) 1 
pound; Poa pratensis (Smooth Meadow), 1 
pound; Festuca duriuscula (hard Fescue), 2 
' pounds; Lolium perenne devoniense (Devon 
1 Ever), 4 pounds. With this mixture the Poa 
annua will soon be lost, unless the Grasses be 
seeded, which would not be good for the lawn ; 
but the other three species, which grow well to¬ 
gether, will soon form a good lawn. 

Lawns to be kept even and smooth want, to be 
frequently mown and rolled; but if the soil be 
poor, the constant mowing and removal of the 
Grass will damage the turf. Injury of this kind 
may be prevented by a dressing of superphos¬ 
phate in autumn, and of soot soon after the 
breaking up of frost. 

As these are plans which have been practically 
carried cut, I hope the description of them may 
be useful to your readers.— Field. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(miscellaneous.) 

10170.— Pots getting green.— The pots 
will of course be wiped or washed at intervals, 
longer or shorter according to the state of the 
atmosphere of the house. If a little chloride of 
lime be put into the water used for that pur¬ 
pose, the intervals will be much longer than 
would be the case without the lime, and the 
pots may be kept quite clean by merely wiping 
them every three or four weeks. If the house is 
very damp, however, they may require to be 
cleaned more frequently. Many amateurs give 
the pots a good washing at intervals of some 
months. It is a much better plan, I think, to 
merely wipe them with a wet cloth, and so do it 
more frequently. It is of great importance, at 
least in conservatories, to have complete com¬ 
mand of the hygrometric state of the atmosphere 
inside, and this can best be obtained by laying 
the whole floor with cement, and cementing the 
foot of the walls for some distance up, so as to 
render the atmosphere of the house independent 
of the damp rising from the ground. I find that 
in a house with such a floor, the pots are much 
less liable to get green than they used to be in 
one where the floor was merely the bare earth 
covered with ashes or laid with tiles. If more 
moisture is required at any time, it can be got 
by using zinc pans and the watering-can, and 
the house can bo dried very quickly by shutting 
it up and lighting the fire if there is no sunshine. 
—P. R. 

10032.— Fertilising flowers.— In the 
bloom which bears the fruit will be found a cen¬ 
tral column; this is the pistil and stigma. On the 
top of the other bloom which bearsno fruit are the 
stamens which bear the pollen, and which are 
indispensable for the swelling of the fruit. The 
bloom which bears the fruit at the end is the pis- 
tilate bloom, and the other the staminate bloom. 
To perform the operation, take the staminate 
bloom, pull off the corolla, then place the stamen, 
which is now quite free, against the pistilate 
bloom, and let the pollen adhere to the top 
of the central column in the pistilate bloom. 
The operation should be done in fine weather 


) 


I 


I 


ti 

1 


i 


'1 


b 

k 




Sept. 1, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


293 


When the pollen is dry. " G. M.” must remem¬ 
ber that nature has provided many means to in¬ 
sure the fertilisation of flowers, the principal 
agents being the bees.—A. T. H. W. 

10187.— Blighted Roses.— The Boses men¬ 
tioned are attacked by the Orange fungus and 
also, as stated, “ smothered with mildew.” Under 
such circumstances they cannot be expected to 
do well; the leaves are also certain to drop off. 
As soon as the Orange fungus appears, the 
affected parts ought to he cut off and burned; 
that ought to be done now. Mix some soft soap 
afterwards in rain water, and to every gallon 
mix 2 ounces of flowers of sulphur. With this 
mixture thoroughly syringe the leaves of the 
Roses. This ought to be done as a preventive 
early in the season. It is too late to do much 
good now, although it ought to be done to give 
the Boses a chance to make new healthy wood. 
—J. D.E. 

10199.— Hollyhocks —“ F. M. R." writes 
of the foliage being much blighted. Bed-spider 
will cause it to become brown and decay. The 
dreaded Puccinia malvacearum appears in the 
form of fungus spots on the back of the leaves. 
If it is that pest it will decimate the whole 
stock. The Hollyhock is perennial and may be 
left in the same place for years, but that is not 
the best method of cultivation. It is best to 
propagate young plants from side growths, &c., 
now, and from young growths in the spring. 
Save seeds from the best varieties and sow as 
soon as they are ripe or in May.—J. D. E. 

10172.— Sowing Fern spores. — These 
may be sown at any season. Take the spores as 
soon as they are ripe. The best plan is to bake 
the compost in a heat sufficient to kill all other 
Fern spores and seeds of weeds. Drain the pots 
well. The compost should be formed of turfy 
loam and peat in equal parts; broken charcoal 
and crocks should be mixed with it. Hardy 
exotic Ferns would vegetate freely in a cold 
frame. The spores should be shaken over the 
surface; no covering is necessary.—J. D. E. 

- Spring is the best time for sowing spores, 

say February or March. A pot 5 inches or 6 inches 
In diameter should be procured, drained in the 
nsual way, and filled to within an inch of the 
top with fem compost, made fine on the surface; 
then thoroughly water the soil, scatter the seed 
on the surface ; put a piece of glass over the pot, 
and set it in a saucer with water in it in a shady 
place. The hardy species will germinate either in 
a greenhouse or a frame.— Fern. 

10127.— Fema damping.— The way to pre¬ 
vent damping and spotting is to keep the foliage 
dry. This class of plants should always have 
their roots kept moist, but, with the exception of 
Filmy Fems, shonld have their foliage kept as 
dry as possible. If there is drip from the roof, 
it shonld either be stopped or the plants staged 
where they will escape it. In watering, it is im¬ 
possible to avoid wetting the fronds to some ex¬ 
tent, bat this must be as little as possible, and 
ventilation given to dry that up.— Fern. 

10132. — Chrysanthemums will fer- 
quently flower out of season. We have had 
Mrs. G. Bundle flowering in June frequently. 
Indeed this variety has a greater tendency to 
flower out of season than any other. It is 
caused by taking cuttings from the stem, 
instead of taking the suckers that are thrown 
up at some distance from it. Cuttings taken 
from the stem do not always run to flower, but 
the tendency to do so is greater than in root 
suckers.—J. D. E. 

10207.— Soil for Carnations.— Well de¬ 
cayed stable manure is the best stimulant to 
mix with the soil for Carnations and Pinks. 
Manure scraped from the roads would answer 
well for this purpose. We would not trust all 
the choicest varieties in the open ground during 
winter, but would pot a selection, and keep 
them in cold frames. They keep best in pots 
when the soil is not too rich.—J. D. E. 

10215. — Caladiums dropping their 
leaves.—Caladiums are sure to do this in a green¬ 
house, as the Caladium is a stove plant. It will 
scarcely make any growth in a greenhouse, even 
in the warmest weather; but even in a stove 
temperature the leaves begin to decay at this 
season. Water ought to be gradually withheld 
from the roots, and the plants will in a month 
or six weeks reach theirresting period.—J. D. E. 

10200 .— Water Lily culture.— We have 
made a basin for Water Lilies of the same size as 

Co gle 


that mentioned. Ours is about 2 feet deep. We 
intend to plant one of the common sort, and 
also a rose-coloured variety. The best time to 
plant is in March or April, and the best way is 
to plant the Lily root in a bushel basket of good 
loam and sink it in the water.—J. D. E. 

101G4.— Removing Carnation layers. 

—This ought to be done about the end of Septem¬ 
ber or early in October. All the hardy fancy 
varieties, seifs, and Cloves succeed well if 
planted in store beds in the open ground ; but it 
is neither safe nor desirable to trust a collection 
of choice named sorts to the tender mercies of 
our uncertain winters.—J. 1). E. 

10217.—Fuchsia culture.--It is easier to grow 
Fuchsias to perfection without heat than it is with it. 
They may be placed in a warm house with advantage 
early in the year to start them into growth, but as the 
season advances they prefer the temperature of a green¬ 
house, or to be placed out-of-doors.—J. D. E. 

10218.—Lifting: bulbs.—Nearly all hardy bulbs are 
beat left iu the ground all the year round, only removing 
them when they become too crowded or for purposes of 
propagation. A mass of Crocuses or Snowdrops cannot 
be grown in one year. They should be left in one place, 
for a decade at least.—J. D. E. 

10202.—Sowing: White Spanish Onions.—It is 
a good plan to sow seeds of this Onion in the autumn In 
soils where the Onion maggot is troublesome, the spring 
sowing is destroyed, while the autumn sowing escapes. 
They keep just as well as those sown in the spring — 
J. D. E. 

10204.—Rose Gloire de Diion.—The Rose has done 
very well in making Buch good growths. We would cut 
the strong growths back to half their length in the spring. 
A mulching of good rotten manure is a good thing for all 
Roses. It should be placed over the ground early in the 
winter.—J. D. E. 

10189.—Failure of Phlox Drummond!.—The 
only way to account for the plants not flowering is that 
the ground is too rich and causes an over-luxuriant 
growth. We would try the plants in poorer soil another 
season.—J. D. E. 


Gillingham’s heat radiator.— J. F. White , and 
others .—See our advertisement columns. 

Major Graham .—The diseased Cucumber represents a 
very bad case of “ gumming,” always easily recognised 
by the small masses of excreted material which resembles 

gum arabic on the surface- S C .—They are what are 

termed summer-flowering Chrysanthemums, and may be 
obtained at any good nursery. See our advertisement 
columns. 

A. G. P .—“The Kitchen and Market Garden,” pub¬ 
lished by Messrs. Crosby, Lockwood, and Co., is the best 
recent work on vegetable culture, but not illustrated. 
“ Fruit Culture for Profit/’ published by Messrs. Rout- 
ledge it Co., is a good little work, but it is not illustrated. 

W. E. J .—Send us a piece of the Tradescantia you 
allude to, and we may be able to tell you if it is hardy. 

Names of plants.— M. L .—The Giant Knotweed 

(Polygonum cuspidatum)- Ignoramus.-'i, Kalosanthes 

coccinea. Send others when in flower.- 11. B. Faring - 

ton .—We cannot name the plant without flowers.- 

L. D.—Sea Starworfc (Aster tripollum).- P. H. Sunn- 

ton .—Send better specimens.- J. Tuck.— 1, Habro- 

thamnus elegans. Send the other again when in flower. 


QUERIES. 

Rules for Correspondents.—AH communica¬ 
tions for insertion should le clearly and concisely xcritten 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. 
Letters relating to business to the Pu blisher. The name 
and address of the sender is required , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece qf paper. Owing to the necessity of 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day of publication , it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

Naming plants .—Four plants,fruits, or flowers only 
can be named at one time, and this only when good 
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name 
varieties offlorists' flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
specialist who has the means of comparison at hand. Any 
communication respecting plants or flowers sent to name 
should alwa ys accompany the parcel. 

10223.— Bedding email garden. — Would some 
correspondent give me advice respecting the manage¬ 
ment of my little garden ? My house is one of a terrace, 
and the front garden contains a centre bed about 12 feet 
long and nearly 0 feet broad. The aspect Is good ; soil 
old pasture recently broken up; subsoil clay. I have up 
to the present succeeded well in the spring with Crocuses, 
Tulips, Anemones, Primroses, Myosotis, and Silenes ; but 
when theseare removedit leaves a break of about six weeks 
until the summer bedding plants are well established. 
This year my bedding is a failure. How can I avoid this in 
future? I think I once saw in Gardening an account of 
a similar garden, where the plants were constantly being 
changed during the summer, now is this managed? 
1 want to avoid the break if possible, and keep flowering 
plants in my bed until late autumn. I like to introduce 
a few uncommon but not expensive plants, if I can. 
Would either Agapanthus, Alatnemeria, Crinum capense. 
or Hyacinthua candicans do as centre plants at each enu 
of the bed ? If so, when should they be planted ?— 
Hunts. 

10224.—Blight on vines.—I shall be greatly obliged 
if someone will kindly suggest some remedy for a blight 


which has appeared on my vine during this and the pre¬ 
ceding year. The vine is an outdoor one, producing 
white Grapes, and just now the fruit is nearly covered 
with a mould, giviug it the appearance of a very young 
purple Grape, In addition to this, the new wood is very 
much spotted. A. gardener whom I have consulted can¬ 
not tell me what is the cause of the blemish ; at the same 
time, he informs me that he never saw a vine make so 
much wood or grow so strongly out-of-doors. For want 
of any other suggestion to offer as a cause for this, would 
a hotbed for Cucumbers placed near the base of the vine 
produce such result?— A Constant Subscriber. 

10225.—Roses in windows.—I have a Souvenir de 
la Malmalson Rose, and although it is strong and healthy, 
there are no signs of its blooming. It is In a pot, and I 
keep it in the garden always in the day time in the sun. 

I had it last year, and it flowered well and made one new 
shoot, and the old ones were cut down ; was this wrong? 
The two new shoots of last year are 18 inches high. It 
was removed to another pot about three weeks ago. How 
often should it be watered? Any information will be 
gladly received. The plant was in a warm window all 
the winter.—R h M. O. 

10220.—Peas failing.—Last March I planted a pint of 
Veitch’s Perfection Peas in a d rill In which had been worked 
some well-rotted manure from an old Cucumber frame. 
The Peas grew very well until they began to pod, then 
the leaves and stalks commenced to turn yellow near the 
ground, and when the Peas were ready to gather they 
had faded almost to the top. They are worse in some 
places than others. This premature fading has occurred 
for the last three or four years. Last year I tried 
McLean’s Little Gem with the same result. Can anyone 
suggest the cause and remedy?—TELEPHONE. 

10227.—Geranium leaves turning yellow.— 
Would any reader of Gardening give me a few hints as 
to how I can keep my zonal Geranium leaves from turn¬ 
ing yellow ? They frequently turn yellow, and I have to 
remove them, and the plants get very naked. My con¬ 
servatory faces west, gets the sun nearly all the day 
long, and is shaded from the hottest of the sun with 
blinds. Would manure water of any kind help them ?— 
W. W. S. 

10228.— Propagating fram 0 .— Having a small green¬ 
house, from which I just exclude frost, and having made 
a propagating frame from the instructions given in 
Gardening Illustrated, March 31, I should be glad to 
know how I may keep it employed all through the winter 
and spring iu striking catlings or raising seeds of carpet¬ 
bedding plants, or such greenhouse plants as Primulas. 
&c. Instructions, plain and simple, would oblige, as I 
am— Quite a Beginner. 

10229.—Gladiolus not flowering.—In the be¬ 
ginning of May I planted some Gladiolus bulbs, one to a 
4 J inch pot, in manure, sand and loam. They have now 
grown to be 3 feet high, but nave not shown any signs of 
flowering. I have applied weak liquid manure, but 
without any result. They are in a cool greenhouse. Any 
information how to treat them will oblige.— Experi¬ 
mentalist. 

10230.—Begonia leaves turning brown.—I have 
two plant8 of Begonia Rex, and when the new leaves get 
about three weeks old, the edges turn brown and curl up. 
What am I to do with them ? I have no conservatory, 
and live in London. Do they require much water, what 
is the best aspect for them, aud do they like the sun ? 
—R. M. O. 

10231.—Moving a Clematis.—I have a Clematis in 
full bloom trained against my house, and, being about to 
change my residence, I want to take it with me, and it 
must be moved in about two weeks. Would someone 
kindly inform me of the best mode of doing so, as it is 
such a beauty that 1 am afraid of killing it by removal?— 
H. L. 

10232.—Pear tree bleeding.—I have a very large 
Pear tree in my garden, and from a junction of two 
boughs tnere is an exudation falling on the ground be¬ 
neath. I shall feel obliged if someone will inform me as 
to the cause of this exudation, and, if it is disease, how 
it can be remedied.—L incoln. 

10233.—Onion maggot—My Onion bod last and 
this year has been completely decimated by the maggot. 
Last year I used cow dung, this year ashes. The land 
lies high and is on the slope, and was only broken up last 
year. A short account of this pest, showing cause, pre¬ 
vention, and cure, if any, would be interesting —J. w. 

10234.—Panay seeds.—At page 266 of Gardening 
it is stated—“ We need not say that the seed should be 
selected from the best flowers only—those that combine 
size, form, and substance, with rich decided colours.” 
What kind of seed must I buy to obtain flowers having 
the above qualities, more especially as to size?—R. O. D. 

10235.—Double Pyretbrums.—Two weeks ago I 
planted some Pyrethrum seed in a box. How long will it 
take to germinate, and would the plants Live in the box 
in the open garden through the winter, so as to be ready 
for transplanting in spring ?—R. D. Owen. 

10236.—Diseased Rose trees.—Will someone have 
the goodness to say if any remedy can be found for dis¬ 
eased Rose trees. Some are eaten by a small green grub 
and others mildewed. They are trained oil a south wall 
and are well manured.—A. B. 

10237.—Annuals for spring bedding.—I should 
like a short description of the plants named below, and 
when would they flower if sown in September ?—Bartonla, 
Calandrlnia, Euebaridfum, Gilla, Haulfussia, Platystemou, 
and Whitlavia.—H unts. 

10238.—Roses for east aspect.—Will strong-grow¬ 
ing climbing Roses do well on a wall facing the east, 
that only gets the early morning and a little evening sun, 
Charles Lefebvre, Bessie Johnson, and climbing Captain 
Christy being the ones selected ?—E. R., Coventry. 

10239.—Wintering Tropeeolums.—I have some 
magnificent Tropieolums in my window-box and back 
garden in London. I have no conservatory. Can I pre¬ 
serve them during the winter? If so, how am 1 1.0 
do it?—R. M. O. 

10240.—Tropceolum speclosum.—When should 
this be planted, is it hardy, and how high does it grow ?— 
F. W.S. 


294 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sept. 1, 1883. 


10241 .—Caterpillars on Geraniums and Rose 
trues.—I should be glad it someone will suggest a plan 
of getting rid of caterpillars from Geraniums and Rose 
trees, They have eaten up nearly all the leaves uf the 
former.— Kingston. 

10242.— Cabbages falling —I have lost a large 
quantity of Cabbage this year from maggots at the roots. 
A short history of this pest would be interesting, showing 
cause, prevention, and cure, if any.—J. W. 

10243.—Double Nasturtiuma.—Can any reader 
tell me how to perpetuate double Nasturtiums ? I have 
several plantB flowering beautifully, but they do not seed. 
Must I try to preserve the roots through the winter ?- 
R. W. G. 

10241.—Solatium aculeatiaalmum.—I have re¬ 
ceived seeds of the above-mentioned plant from Aus¬ 
tralia, which have germinated freely. I should be glad 
to know what treatment the seedlings require.—M. L. 

10245 — Poison for slugs.—Can any reader inform 
me what poisons will kill slugs, in what substauco to 
mix it, and how to get it consumed by them?—S ub¬ 
scriber. 

10246.—Single white Rocket.—Is there a white 
single Rocket of dwarf habit that produces flowers in 
spikes like the double Rocket, and what is it named?— 
ENQUIRER. 

10247.—Chrysanthemums in London gardens. 
—There is a large white Chrysanthemum which I hear 
does well in a London garden. Will some one kindly 
tell me the name of it?—It. M. O. 

10248 —Celery blighted —I should be obliged if 
some reader would give me a recipe for cleansing some 
Celery that is covered with filth.—A nxious One. 

10219.—Forcing Seakale —When should young 
Beak&le plants be forced, and what is the best way of 
forcing? The seed was sown last spring —Birmingham 

10250.—Cabbages clubbing.—What is the best 
way of stopping Cabbages from clubbing? The roots 
become quite a large ball.— Birmingham. 

10251.—Autumn-sown Parsnips—Will Parsnips 
stand the winter if sown next month ?—Young Hand. 

10252.—Carnations and Pico tees—What is the 
difference between a Carnation and a Picotee?—G. J. 

10253.—Thinning Carnations.—Should the growths 
on old Carnation plants be thinned out or not?—R. S. 


POULTRY. 


COMMENCING POULTRY KEEPING. 

The following remarks will reply to “ S. D.” 
upon this Bubject: If your garden is 10 yards 
wide, and surrounded by a brick wall, your work 
is very simple, if you intend to keep only 
Brahmas, which would never attempt to fly 
over. All you have to do is to erect a fence 
right across the garden, allowing as much ground 
as you can spare. For ten fowls the run should 
not be less than 3 yards wide, that is to say, the 
fence should be 3 yards from the wall at the 
end of the garden, and running parallel with it. 
This would give 3 square yards per bird, which 
would enable you to keep them in good health. 

The first thing to be considered is the drainage 
of the run. If we are not mistaken, you can 
obtain plenty of chalk in your neighbourhood 
almost for the expense of calling. If so, nothing 
could be better than a layer of this 3 inches or 

1 inches deep, well rammed down, and covered 
with a coating of gravel. Do not remove any of 
the existing soil, but put both chalk and gravel 
on the top of it. The fence should be made of 
upright poles fixed firmly in the ground 4 yards 
apart, with a rail on the top, anu planks a foot 
high at the bottom. These latter would keep 
the chalk and gravel within bounds, and should 
he as thick as possible, so as to withstand the 
pressure. The uprights should be the same 
height as the wall. Stretch galvanised - wire 
netting (1-inch mesh would do) on the poles 
from the planks to the top rail. Insert a door, 
composed of a light frame covered with netting, 
either at one side or in the middle, and you have 
your run complete. 

As regards the house, any carpenter, if you are 
not handy with the tools yourself, would put up 
an ordinary lean-to in one corner, 5 feet square, 
having the brick wall for two sides, for about £2, 
made of three-quarter-inch deals, and roof-covered 
with felt, and all well tarred. A glazed window 

2 feet square should be inserted, as fowls like 
plenty of light, also a door 2 feet G inches wide. 
For ventilation, a square of perforated zinc may 
be let in the upper part of the latter. A word 
as regards the operation of tarring. Be sure it 
is done the moment the house is complete, for 
two reasons. First, because it prevents the roof¬ 
ing felt becoming injured by the weather; and 
secondly, the tar will bo hard and dry before 
the birds make their appearance. The con¬ 
struction of the floor of the house should be 
the next consideration. This is best done 
as follows: Mix equal portions of ashes, Band, 
and T'ortland cement into a mortar, and lay 

Coe gle 


down about 2 inches thick. In a day or 
two this will have become hard and dry. Then 
over it, with a bricklayer’s trowel, Spread a thin 
coat of Portland cement. This will make a 
capital hard floor, and if kept spread with dry 
ashes or earth is easily cleaned. 

The internal fittings of the house next require 
attention. One roosting pole right across the 
house will be sufficient. A fir pole sawn in half 
with the round part uppermost, about 3 inches 
wide, is the best kind of perch. Let it be fixed 
18 inches from the ground and the same distance 
from the wall, which will prevent the fowls 
injuring their plumage by coming in contact 
with it, and so add to their comfort. If 
the perch is at all “ planky ” when the birds 
walk on it, then a support must be put in 
the centre from the ground. Three nest boxes 
should be provided for ten fowls, and see that 
they are not too small. About 18 inches square 
is not too large for Brahmas. A hole 9 inches 
by 13 inches should be cut in the bottom of the 
door with rounded top to allow the fowls to go 
in and out, and a sliding shutter to go over this 
when it is desired to confine them to the house 
will be found useful. When everything is 
finished, the whole interior of the house, 
including nest boxes and perches, should 
receive a good coat of strong whitewash. 

As regards the stock, we must remind you that 
you are commencing at a bad time, and strongly 
advise you to buy a brood of chicken of this 
year, as old as possible, and rear them yourself. 
You can then depend on their being young, and 
if they are of February or March hatch you may 
expect them to commence laying in about two 
months’ time. On the other hand, if you buy 
older stock you will run great risk of getting 
some old birds past being profitable. Even sup¬ 
posing the dealer you go to is to be depended 
on, he is very likely to be misled himself, as at 
this time of the year pullets of last year are very 
difficult to distinguish from older hens, and even 
supposing you were lucky enough to get last 
year’s pullets, they would lay but very few more 
eggs before commencing to moult, and after 
getting over that would not lay much through the 
winter. For hints on feeding see answer to 
“G. G.” in the issue of July 28th. 

Andalusian. 


Management of fowls. — “E. B.’s” 
fowls probably do not have sufficient flesh- 
forming food. Mine have every morning boiled 
rice mixed with Spratt’s poultry meal and a 
little oat or maize meal, and I have never found 
the fat “ E. B.” complains of. “E. B.” no doubt 
has a book on poultry, in which should be a 
table of the various properties of different foods, 
thus:— 


Every 100 lbs. of 

. 

Fat or oil. 

to 

= 

£ 

g 

o 

s • 
© 

£<2 

► 

"S> 

f! 

* u 

A 

0 

11 

8| 

d 

■Q 

tC 

5 

M 

3 

E 

J310A4 

Data contain.. 

6 

15 

47 

2 

20 

10 

Oatmeal 

6 

18 

63 

2 

2 

9 

Wheat 

3 

12 

70 

2 

1 

12 

Barley 

2 

1 

to 

2 

14 

11 

Indian com,. 

8 

11 

05 

1 

5 

10 

Rice. 

a trace 

7 

80 

a trace 


13 


The rice should be boiled for half an hour, 
and then let it stand in the water till cold.— 
G. M. B. 


To make fowls lay in winter.— The 
following is an easy and by no means costly 
method for obtaining a regular supply of eggs 
during winter, even when the weather is at its 
coldest. I cannot say that I invented it, but I 
can say that I have practised it for a great many 
years. As soon as the cold sets in, that is about 
November 15, observes M. Garnot, in a French 
newspaper, I have a quantity of hot dung carried 
into the poultry house, enough to cover the floor 
from 10 inches to 12 inches deep. This is beaten 
down firmly and left till about December 1 ; then 
every day for a month the layer of dung is suppl ied 
with a fresh layer of from 4 inches to 6 inches 
deep. At the end of this time the dung is turned 
over to mix it well, by which means an increase 
of heat is obtained—thanks to the successive 
depositions and contributions of the hens whose 
peiches are above. And so I reach the middle 
of January, when I have all the dung removed, 
and begin the entire process over again; and 


this carries me on to the first fine days. By 
this means I am able to maintain during the 
coldest weather a regular temperature, and 
I have the pleasure of obtaining fresh eggs 
at a time when they are exceedingly scarce. 
The expense of this method is merely the labour 
connected with it, and in winter time labour is 
Dot dear. The manure which I take away is 
excellent—very superior to that which I have at 
the beginning, because the fowls’ dung is added 
to it day by day. In this dung, too, the fowls 
find a large quantity of worms, larvte, and 
insects, of which they are fond, and which they 
rarely get in winter time. I leave them at liberty 
to go out in the ordinary way ; but they know 
that they should keep inside in unfavourable 
weather, and they stop and keep their feet 
warm on snowy days, when it is damp or when it 
freezes. 

Black Spanish and Dorkings. —We have a good 
Black Spanish cock. Will the result be satisfactory if 
we put Dorking pullets along with it ? We want plenty 
of eggs and good fowls for table.—I'DNY. 

Plymouth Rocks.—In reply to the queries of 
“ J. S.,” Plymouth Rocks can fly well. The same height 
of fence will not be sufficient as arranged for Brahmas 
and Cochins.—H. G. T. 

Guinea Fowls.—Will someone tell me how Guinea 
chickens should be treated— if reared like pheasants or 
common fowls? —Westmeath. 


BEES. 

SEASONABLE NOTES. 

Destruction op drones.— The killing and 
casting out of the drone brood, and the worrying 
of the drones by the workers just now, is a sure 
sign that another honey season is fast drawing to 
a close. The poor drones, driven from the 
combs, crowd in heap3 on the floor board, where 
they become weak, and many die from want; 
others leave the hive, and, being from weakness 
unable to return, die at some distance from the 
hive ; others, again, fall from the flight board to 
the ground and perish miserably, worried to the 
last by the workers, although the latter seldom 
use their stings in the destruction of the drones. 
The bees now begin to empty the supers of their 
honey, and take it down into the hive to store for 
winter use. 

Removing supers. —To remove straw supers 
or bell glasses, first pass a knife round under the 
rim, then draw a piece of string or fine wire 
between it and the hive, then blow in a little 
smoke and remove the super to a shady place 
some distance away from the hive or into an out¬ 
house or dark room (having a small aperture to 
admit light), and place it upon three small 
flower pots or something of the kind, when the 
bees will soon leave and return to the hive. The 
super must not be left exposed without strict 
watch being kept, or the consequence will be 
that a host of bees will be attracted, who will in 
a very short time clear out the store and leave 
nothing but empty combs. This operation is 
best performed in the middle of a bright, clear 
day, while many of the bees are abroad. When the 
queen excluder is not used, it sometimes happens 
that the queen is in the super on its removal; it 
may be concluded that this is the case when the 
bees in the super show no uneasiness, but the 
hive from which it was taken is seen to be in a 
great state of uproar, arising from the bees 
having discovered the loss of their sovereign; 
when this is observed, the super must be returned 
to the hive and the operation again performed 
in a day or two. Another way is to disconnect 
the super over night, wedging it up about an 
inch; during the night the bees will join those 
in the hive for warmth, and the super can be 
removed quite early in the morning when very 
few bees will be found within it. The removal 
of sectional supers is much more easily per¬ 
formed. A little smoke is blown among them, 
those that are fixed together with propolis are 
separated with a thin knife and lifted out one by 
one, and any adhering bees arc brushed back 
into the hive or on to the alighting board. 

Wasps will now be getting troublesome, 
making free with weak hives more especially. 
When any number have gained an entrance into 
a hive, the bees are seldom able to eject them. 
The most effectual way of checking their attack 
upon a hive, is to narrow its entrance; the bees 
are thereby better able to defend themselves, as 
they can well guard a small aperture. The zig¬ 
zag tunnel-like entrance provided to some bar- 
frame hives gives the defender? a great 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


3 11 





Sept. 1, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


295 


advantage over their enemies. All should be 
done that is possible to defend hives from the 
attacks of wasps, for, being so much superior in 
strength, they not only consume the honey, but 
destroy many bees. Search should be made for 
wasps’ nests and the wasps destroyed by pouring 
a little turpentine, tar, or paraffin, into the hole 
leading to the nest and covering up with clay; 
this is best done in the evening when the wasps 
are all within. Many may be taken in wide¬ 
mouthed bottles half filled with beer, sugar and 
water, and put about in places most frequented 
by them. A weak hive is sometimes attacked 
by robber bees, and in a comparatively short 
space of time cleared of all its stores, the 
attacking party working early and late till their 
object is accomplished. If contracting the 
entrance of the hive does not put an end to the 
pillage, the only alternative is to remove the 
hive a long distance. S. S. G. 

Bo worth. 


Comb misplaced.— I have a stock of bees 
in a Woodbury hive. They swarmed twice this 
year in June. There are seven frames in the 
hive, but the bees have built eight combs between 
the frames, and are all joined together. The 
combs are perfectly straight, but are built out¬ 
side the frames, from one side of the hive to the 
other. They hold a great deal of honey. I am 
afraid, however, that the hives are queenless, as 
they are not working much. When would be 
the best time to put the combs right in the 
frames, and how am I to do it! If they are 
queenless, could I introduce some brood 1 How 
can I tell if the queen is present or not?— 
Constant Subscribes. [First smoke the 
bees, then lift the misplaced combs bodily 
out of the hive, and shake and brush as 
many bees as possible back into the hive. 
Cut out and lay a comb upon a piece of soft 
material; place a frame about it, and tie 
the comb in with two pieces of tape long enough 
to go round the frame. Gently raise the frame 
(now containing the comb) to an upright posi¬ 
tion, and place it in the hive and repeat till all 
the combs are used. In a day or two the bees 
will fix the combs firmly into the frames, when 
the tapes can be cut and gently drawn out. This 
may be done now. Honey gathering is now 
over, or nearly so; where there is no heather, 
therefore, the fact of the bees not working much 
is no proof of queenlessness. In the operation of 
replacing the combs “ Constant Subscriber ” will 
possibly catch sight of her majesty, or failing 
this, he will be able to observe whether there 
are eggs or brood for the bees to make a queen 
of, which they will certainly do if they have lost 
their queen.]—S. S. G„ Boxworth. 

Management of bees.— Will someone 
give me information respecting the management 
of bees that have been driven from Btraw skeps, 
as I have six skeps and intend driving them out; 
and I have two bar-frame hives ? Can I put three 
butts in each hive, if so, what is the manage¬ 
ment after ? The hives have not got any comb 
in the frames, only foundations.—H. J. 

Packing honey.—Will some correspondent tell me 
which is the best way ol packing glass jar3 of honey to 
travel by mil without risk of breaking, also where 
I can buy the vegetable parchment recommended by 
“S 3. G.’’for covering the jars?— APIS, Oxon. 


BIRDS. 

Parrot not talking. —Will any of your 
readers experienced in the treatment of parrots, 
give some advice in the following case: We 
have had a parrot (grey, with red tail) for two 
years ; as nearly as we know, she was only a few 
months old when we bought her, and could not 
say anything. She learned a number of sentences, 
and was very lively and amusing until this 
summer; for the last three months she has 
almost entirely left off talking, merely asking 
for food and saying a word only occasionally. 
Her appetite is fickle, and she sleeps much in the 
day. Her diet has been boiled Indian corn, toast 
crusts, and water, with fresh fruit now and then; 
she is syringed once a week. The cage is kept 
quite clean, and on warm days we put her in the 
garden. We think the lower part of the beak 
has grown too much, so that the sides do not 
close; would this affect her ?— Mabian. 

Goldfinch and canary.—I have just re¬ 
ceived a handsome cock goldfinch, and I should 
Uke next spring to pair it jyith a hen canary 

Digitized by GOOgk 


Ought I to procure the canary at once, and keep 
it with the goldfinch throughout the winter, or 
should I not put them together until I wish them 
to breed ? 1 shall be glad of any information 
on this subject, as I have never bred small birds. 
—Fringilla. 

Treatment of canaries— I have kept 
canaries for some time, and with very fair 
success. For food, I give canary, rape, hemp 
occasionally, maw seed—a pinch now and then 
by way of treat, but not to the sitting hens or 
young birds. Fresh water I give every day, in 
very warm weather twice a day. Watercress, 
lettuce, chickweed, and, when the birds are 
moulting, half of a common English marigold, 
with a little of the green leaves, about twice a 
week. I never give groundsel, as I have found 
from experience it is not good, and I advise the 
lettuce to be given rather sparingly, as the birds 
eat it greedily. I have had fifteen young birds 
from five nests, and have given the old birds 
chopped egg all the time they were feeding the 
young ones. I have lost two nests through the 
old bird sitting too closely and smothering the 
yonng ones. I shall not mate her again, as she 
lias a bad temper, and kills her young by covering 
them up too closely when anyone approaches the 
cage. My birds eat but very sparingly of moun¬ 
tain bread, and this year I have used but very 
little, as through the extreme heat I feared it 
might turn sour. My greatest trouble with my 
birds is caused by red mites in the breeding 
cages, but I have great hopes of getting rid of 
these pests. I give my birds clean perches every 
week. I place the ends of the used ones for an 
hour or so in carbolic acid, and wash them well 
afterwards, and place them in the air to get rid 
of the smell, which goes off in a very few days ; 
and I wash my cages in this way. I give a bird 
a fresh cage, and with a stiff brush I brush the 
wires of the cage which has been last used with 
soft soap, and also all the joints inside, and every 
part that is not polished, supposing the cage to 
be made of mahogany ; for a commoner sort it 
does not so much signify. I let it lie all night, 
and the next day wash it all off with cold water 
and a hard brush ; and that I find is the most 
satisfactory plan I have ever tried-, as I have no 
fear of injuring the birds through it. The only 
thing I have to be careful of is to be perfectly 
certain the cage is quite dry on being used.— 
Nil Desterandum. 

Parakeet moulting. —A canary of mine 
was suffering in the same way as “Yeadon’s” 
parrakeet, and was cured by warming kinds of 
food, such as rape seed, and a tiny quantity of 
brandy, continued for some little time. The 
beginning of growth in the feathers would show 
when the remedy was taking effect, and as the 
adviser administered the brandy himself, it was 
probably given only once in the day, and very 
possibly not every day, as he lived a little way 
off, and was not an idle man, by any means; 
but it seems to be warmth and strength that are 
wanting. The canary very soon quite recovered. 
—Limes. 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 


The use of animal food.— The three 
great objects of food are: 1, To furnish heat; 
2, to produce force ; 3, to encourage growth and 
prevent waste. It has been a great deal too 
much the custom to look upon meat as the only 
food which is really nourishing and worth eating. 
The English have held thiserroneous doctrine for 
centuries, and if we look at the old bills of fare 
of the feasts given by kings and great people, it 
is simply astounding to see how the diet was 
composed almost entirely of animal food; fish 
and flesh in enormous quantities, and almost 
every bird that flew were required for the 
furnishing of the rich man’s table. Bread they 
had, of a coarse kind, bnt vegetables were almost 
absent. The potato had not been introduced, 
and green vegetables were scarce and dear. 
Those who were rich enough to feed on fresh 
meat did not, perhaps, materially suffer, but the 
poor, whose entire diet almost consisted of salted 
fish and meat, were liable to a frightful extent 
to leprosy, one of those diseases which arise from 
improper feeding. Notwithstanding in the 
present day vegetables are cheap and plentiful 
in England, and that for the rich the vegetable 
produce of almost the entire world may be said 
to be easily obtainable, we still cling to the old 


dietetic traditions of our ancestors, and both 
rich and poor still continue to eat a diet which is 
not so much composed of vegetable articles as, 
both on the score of health and economy, it 
might be.— Family Physician. 

Nettle beer.— Medians. —There are several 
different ways of making this excellent beverage 
We make a deal of it, and the following is our 
recipe:—We take about one peck of well washed 
Nettles and one ounce of whole ginger, and put 
them into a large saucepan over a slow fire, and 
let them boil for half an hour. While these are 
boiling, we get a large bowl and put into it one 
pound of lump sugar and one lemon in slices ; 
then pour the contents of the pan through a 
strainer into the bowl. This should make one 
gallon. If you have not quite enough, put a 
little more water on the Netties and let it boil, 
then add it to the other. Toast a slice of bread 
and put it into the bowl. Then add a breakfast- 
cupful of brewers’ barm as soon as it has got 
lukewarm, not before, or you will scald the 
barm, and then it will not work. If you cannot 
well get brewers’ barm, one pennyworth of 
German yeast will answer, bnt is not so good. 
Some people, instead of waiting for the liquor 
cooling, at once add cold water to cool it down, 
w’hich is a very great mistake, as it prevents it 
from keeping. When you have put in your barm, 
stir the whole up, then leave it on the hearth for 
eight hours to work, then take off the barm and 
bottle, and in a few hours’ time you will have 
one of the primest of drinks. This may he 
improved by boiling with the Nettles a few 
Dandelion roots and a little Balm, and Cleaners, 
also called Goose-share and Goose-grass. I also 
add a little Ground Ivy—it is also called Cats- 
foot, Alehoof, Gill-go-by-ground, Turnhoof, Hay- 
maids, but best known by Bobin-run-in-the- 
hedge. Nettles are also a very good and whole¬ 
some vegetable boiled like greens; Nettle is 
anti-asthmatic. The juice of the roots or leaves 
made into an electuary, with honey and sugar, 
opens the bronchial tubes of the lungs, the stop¬ 
page of which causes wheezing, shortness of 
breath, St c.—A. W. J. 

Elder-flower wine.— Whisk two whites 
of eggs in 2 gallons of water, and put to this 
5 pounds of good loaf-sugar. Boil and skim it 
well. Put to the boiling liquid 2] pounds of 
best chopped raisins and 2 quarts of Elder 
flowers. Infuse these, but do not boil them. 
When cool, put half a quarter pint of yeast to 
the liquid, stirring it well up. Next day put in 
the juice of two Lemons and the thin rind. Let 
it ferment in the open vessel for three days, and 
then strain and cask it. Add for every gallon of 
wine a half-pint of brandy. Stir the whole well 
in the tub or pan, and throw a blanket over the 
vessel (which is proper in making all wines). 
Stir the ingredients occasionally, and in three 
days strain off the liquor into a cask. Keep the 
cask full, and when the second fermentation has 
ceased, add for every gallon of wine half-pint 
of brandy. Bung up the cask very closely, 
covering the bung with clay; and when fined, 
which will be from six weeks to two months, 
rack it carefully off, aud rack it again if not 
quite bright. 

Keeping Apples and Pear3.—I am fitting up 
one side of a room with cupboards and drawers for keep¬ 
ing Apples and Pears. Should it be as airtight aa 
possihle, or ventilated ?—T. T. L. 

Preserving Lettuce stalks.—Will someone give 
me a recipe for preserving Lettuce stalks ?—J AX. 

Hop beer.— Would “ T. J. w.,” who recently gave a 
recipe for hop heer, say how long the beer has to be 
bottled before being ready for use, also if it is necessary 
to add sugar and something to clear it, either in the 
boiling or In the bottles, and if matt could not bo used to 
advantage without making it intoxicating?—H. R. 

Black Currant vinegar.— Can anyone tell me the 
way to make the above, and also Raspberry vinegar'(— 
n. J. 


Saisafy —Wo planted some tills spring. Must it lie 
dug up and put away like Carrots, or left in the ground 
and dug up alien wanted? Is it not covered the same 
as Scakale ? — A. S. B. 

Aquatic plants for tank.— I have a 
small tank, not quite 8 feet across, in a cool 
greenhouse. Can you tell me of, say, two or 
more of the best things to put in it ? I should 
add that I want to keep a few goldfish in the 
lank, and that a small fountain plays into it.— 
M. B. [Try Cape Fondweed, Aponogeton dis- 
tachyon, Vallisneria spiralis, Alisina natans, 
Elodea canadensis.—E d.] 




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Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. V. 


SEPTEMBER 8, 1883. 


No. 235. 


THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE. 

Annuals and Biennials. 

As has been said before, we mast not forget 
that to have flowers at all in mid-winter, and 
especially in a cold house, it is essential that oar 
plants should be prepared during the growing 
time of the summer. In the early part of 
August, the flow of sap begins to slacken, and 
by the time that 

St. Bartholomew 

Brings the cold dew, 

according to the adage of our forefathers, 
growth has ceased in great measure, and the 
ripening process of root and branch has set in. 
nence the old saying that “ In spring you may 
bid a cutting to grow, but in autumn it must be 
coaxed.” Forethought, therefore, must be 
exercised, for if September catches the gardener 
napping, then good bye to flowers at Christmas. 
The only thing to be done then is to repair our 
negligence as far as may be by having recourse 
to 

Afiiuinji-fofrn Annuals .—They will not come 
into bloom with the new year, it is true, but 
with care and shifting on into larger pots, they 
may be brought forward in early spring, and 
will go far towards gracing our conservatory. 
In fact, there are many people even now who 
have but little idea of the beauty of autumn- 
sown annuals. 

I will transcribe for the benefit of my readers 
a short extract from a book seldom to be met 
with in the present day- Mrs. Loudon’s work 
on Annuals, which is beautifully illustrated 
with coloured plates. I do so for two reasons, 
viz., because the hints here given have been of 
great use to myself, and they form a sort of 
guide—with modifications, of course, in accord¬ 
ance with the nature of the plant you may wish 
to grow—for the general culture of annuals in 
pots, either autumn or spring-sown. It will be 
noticed that in the case of Rhodanthe Manglesi, 
the plant in question, the time of sowing is 
stated to be April, but it must he borne in 
mind that Rhodanthe is a half-hardy annual, 
and the same cultural directions arc applicable 
whether the seed be sown in August or Septem¬ 
ber or in spring. I quote the following passage 
verbatim The seed was sown on April o, in 
pots filled with three parts peat, or rather heath 
mould, and one of loam. In the first week of 
May, when the plants were still in the seed leaf, 
they were pricked out singly into small 2£-inch 
or 3-inch pots. In a week’s time they were 
shifted into rather larger pots, and this shifting 
was repeated six times, always into rather larger 
pots, till the middle of August, when the plants 
were in Hi-inch pots, and when they were 
first allowed to flower. On September 14, when 
one of these plants was sent to us by Captain 
Mangles, it was 11 feet high, about 4 feet in cir¬ 
cumference, and had a thousand expanded 
flowers upon it, besides innumerable buds, which 
have coutinucd expanding ever since, and it is 
still (November 1) a blaze of beauty. It is 
watered every morning with a little warm water, 
and the dead flowers are cut off as they fade. 
1 The great art,’ says Mr. Goode, in the manu¬ 
script directions sent us by Captain Mangles, ‘is 
to prevent the plant from growing upwards, and 
to cause it to increase and expand in breadth 
instead of length.' To do this, all that is required 
is to watch it well, and the moment the roots 
have nearly filled the pot to transplant it into a 
larger one. By constantly attending to this, the 
plants will grow thick and shrubby in their 
character, and while the shoots will grow strong 
and capable of hearing a most profuse floration, 
the beauty of the plants in shape will be greatly 
improved.” 

The above passage is highly suggestive, for an 
annual plant well grown may be a grand speci¬ 
men. As a rule, however, annuals are thickly 
sown in patches, and receive no after care, and 
consequently are starved out of all beauty of 
form and Bower. I do not say that specimens 
as fine can be grown in pots as may be seen 
amongst autumn-sown plants which have with¬ 
stood the winter out-of-doors, and have been 
transferred singly in the sprang to 
ing quarters, because to/a certajr 


their bloom- 
ci^apj they 


seem to rebel against the cramping of their 
roots. If the shifting on system described in 
the passage quoted is carefully followed, how¬ 
ever, there is no reason why the culture of 
annuals should not be highly successful. Four 
things are to be noted in their cultivation:— 

1. Pot off singly while still in the seed leaf. 

2. Shift frequently into pots j ust a little larger 

than the last, to encourage root growth. 

3. Use rich soil, and water often with soot 

water. I seldom use any other fertiliser. 
It is cheap, effective, and safe. 

4. I’ick off all flower buds until the plant is 

of sufficient size and strength to support 
aluxuriant bloom, and removeall withered 
flowers as they fade, to prevent the form¬ 
ation of seed. 

If these rules are adhered to, you cannot fail to 
have flue specimen plants. So, if it chances 
that you fear a lack of flowers for the decora¬ 
tion of your conservatory in the spring, try this 
plan, and see how it answers. I append a 

List op Hardy Annuals 
likely to give a large return of pleasure for the 
small sum spent in buying good seed. 


Bartonia aurca 

Campanula macrostyla - 

Chrysanthemum corona- 
rium namim - 
carinatum 
Dunnetti - 
8egetum 

Collinsia bicolor - 
verua - 
violacea 

Convolvulus minor tricolor 

Eschscholtzia alba 
mandarin • 

Codetta Lady Albermarlo 
Whltneyi - 
Duchess of Albany - 


Lnvatera trimestrlg 
alba - 

Linum grandiflorum 


Lepfcoaiphon aureus 
r 066113 - 


Ten-weeks Stocks - 
Mignonette 
Viscaria oculata - 


yellow, 2 feet 

reddish purple, 1 foot, (Fine 
and interesting.) 

yellow, 1J feet 
white and yellow, 2 feet 
double, 2 feet 
Corn Marigold, 1 foot, 
golden yellow 
lilac and white, 1 foot 
blue and white, 1 foot 
deep violet and white, 1 foot 
deep blue, yellow, and 
white, 1$ feet 
white, 1 foot 

crimson an 3 orange, 1 foot 
crimson, 1 loot 
pale crimson, spotted, 1 foot 
satiny white, 1 foot 
(These make fine pot plants 
under good cultivation.) 
pink, 3 feet 
white, 3 feet 

crimson-flax, 1J feet. (Fine 
for spriDg - blooming if 
carefully treated.) 
orange 

pink, both very dwarf. 
< Suitable for shallow 

trough for edging.) 

■ various, 1 foot 

rosy purple with dark eye, 
1 foot. (Somewhat the 
growth of Linum.) 


Dwarf Annuals suitable for Baskets. 


Nemophila insignia - blue 

maculata - - - white, spotted purple 

Omphalodes linlfolia - - white 

Platystemon californlcus - creamy white 
Ionopsidium acaule - - white, tinged with mauve 

Sweet Peas - - • ") 

Tropieolum aduncum V excelleut for baskets 
(Canary Creeper) - ) 


No cold house should be without Mignonette 
and Sweet Peas in early spring. It is seldom that 
one sees the latter grown as a basket plant, yet 
sown early, tay in September or even October, 
and shifted on until large enough for a good- 
sized basket, one or two plants of Sweet Peas 
make a charming ornament for the conservatory. 
Mignonette, with Nemophila drooping over the 
edge, makes a fragrant companion basket for 
the Sweet Peas not to be despised in the early 
days of spring. 


Autumn-blooming Annuals. 


While on this subject, it may be useful to add 
here a short list similar to the above of half- 
hardy annuals, which may be sown in April in a 
cold house for autumn-blooming:— 


Alonsoa incisifolia- 
Browallla elata and alba 
Datura ceratocaula 
Wrighti - 


Isotoma axlllaria • 

Rhodanthe Mangles! and 
alba - 

Salplglossis 8lnnata 
Schizuuthus Grahami 
retuaus 


Seneoio elegans (double 
Groundsel) * 


- scarlet-orange, 1J feet 

- bine or white, 1$ feet 

- white 

- white, tinged violet. (These 

should bo sown as early 
as March In gentle heat). 

- pale violet, Lobelia-like, 1 

foot 

- rose or white, 1J feet 

- various coloured, lj feet 

- lilac and orange, 1J feet 

- deep rose and orange, l^feet 

(Both of these and the 
preceding make fine pot. 
plants under good culture) 

purple, 1J feet 


Climbers or good Basket Plants. 

Quamoclib coccinea • - orange scarlet, small Con¬ 

volvulus-like twiner 

Thunbergia alata - - - buff or white, with dark eye 

Lopho3permum scandens - rosy purple 
Maurandyia Barclayana - deep vioiet 

The last two, though not annuals, may be 
sown very early and treated as such, and are 
sometimes useful us good trellis or basket 
plants. 

Biennials. 

Before leaving the subject of annuals, a few 
words should be added about biennials, of which 
there are some showy species invaluable for 
what is technically called furnishing. As a rule, 
the amateur, if he be a true lover of plants— 
“ au omnivorous amateur, ’as the late Miss Hope 
aptly expresses it in her charming papers on 
gardening subjects—is not unlikely to have his 
greenhouse overcrowded. It is rather an ad¬ 
vantage, therefore, than otherwise, for plants 
sometimes to bloom themselves to death, and so 
to make room for others of more permanent 
value. In a general way biennials should be 
sown in May and June, wherein consists the 
main difference between their culture and that 
of autumn-sown annuals, which may be post¬ 
poned until August and September, their after 
treatment being very similar. 

Campanulas of the Canterbury Bell section 
(C. medium Dean’s vars.) make excellent pot- 
plants, and are largely grown in 6-inch pots for 
Covent Garden. Their colours vary from white 
and pink to deepest violet-purple. But the sin¬ 
gular C. calycanthema, in which the calyx is 
coloured as well as the bell, is perhaps even 
better adapted to pot culture, being less coarse 
growing. Seed of these should be sown as early 
as May, and the young plants shifted on during 
the summer in the manner described for Rho¬ 
danthe. The soil used should be rich, and they 
should be watered carefully. Winter them in a 
cold frame where they will have slight protection, 
and they will flower early in the following spring, 
and will last in beauty for some time. These Cam¬ 
panulas make large specimens from 2 feet to 
3 feet high, and should give, under good treat¬ 
ment, a pyramid of bloom, from which all 
withered flowers should be immediately removed. 
The two single 

Chinese Pinks— Crimson Belle and Eastern 
Queen—sent out some time since by Messrs. 
Carter, are quite worthy of being grown in this 
way for early spring flowering, more especially 
as their beauty in some seasons is apt to be 
greatly spoilt by weather. By picking off all 
buds until the plants are strong and fine, you 
will obtain a better bloom. A biennial seldom 
seen, but very handsome when well grown, is 

Ipomopsis elegans, and its spikes of spotted 
orange-scarlet flowers are very ornamental. The 
plant is reputed difficult to grow, which makes 
success in its culture all the more pleasant. 

Brcmpton Stocks— scarlet and white—should 
not be forgotten amongst the number of good 
biennials. They need not be sown so early as 
some others. August will not be too late, but 
the earlier they are sown in reason, the better 
for the conservatory in the spring. The dwarf 
varieties of the old-fashioned 

Sweet Scabious (Scabiosa atro-purpurea and 
S. candidissima) have been much grown of late 
years for early flowering under glass, and give a 
richness of colour distinct from any other plant, 
save perhaps the so-called small-flowered Dahlia 
Zimpani (Cosmos diversifolius). 

It will be seen from the foregoing list of 
annuals and biennials that, though it may con¬ 
tain nothing very new or choice, yet no cold 
conservatory need go unfurnished with abun¬ 
dance of flowers during the early months of the 
year. The chief expenditure required is that of 
time and trouble, and these will be sure to yield 
a large return of interest in health and enjoy¬ 
ment. A very beautiful plant for the unheated 
greenhouse is 

Saxifraga Bepaulensis, which may not inaptly 
be described as a triennial, inasmuch as if its 
blooming can be deferred to the third season, it 
make3 a magnificent specimen. Like all the 
Saxifrages of the encrusted section, it throws 
out innumerable suckers, which must be care- 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



298 


‘ GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sept. 8, 1883. 


fully removed and potted for stock, as the plant 
itself dies after flowering. The only art in grow¬ 
ing it is to choose well-formed rosettes, and to 
shift the plants continually until they are in 
8-inch pots. They may then be allowed to 
bloom, when a stem of 3 feet high will be de¬ 
veloped from the centre of the rosette, and a 
snowy pyramid of lace-like flowers will reward 
the trouble bestowed upon it. The plants stand 
in a cold frame all the year round with me, and 
the culture is simple in the extreme, but I have 
given away dozens of young plants to friends 
who greatly admired them when in bloom, but 
have never yet heard of a successful result. 
Yet the old lady who gave me my original plant 
grows them to perfection in her cottage window. 
Whereby hangs this moral—that there is no 
royal road to the cultivation of beautiful 
flowers. If you do not grow them yourself, 
somebody else, with trouble and toil, must grow 
them for you. A very thin, straight, Hazel 
wand must be carefully placed close to the 
rising flower stem of the Saxifrage, so that it 
may be tied gradually as it grows, otherwise 
the stem is liable to twist and bend towards 
the light, which spoils the symmetry of the 
plant. ASHMOBE. 


NOTES FROM THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 


Gabdenebs, as a race, are happy people, 
never failing to find something to interest and 
some instruction by the way wherever their 
wandering steps may lead them. The luxu¬ 
riance of the vegetation on the south-west coast 
and in the Isle of Wight, where bo many pleasant 
seaside resorts tempt holiday-makers to find 
temporary homes, is a matter of frequent re¬ 
mark, and many useful hints may be gathered 
by careful observation of the manner in which 
the permanent residents dispose of the advan¬ 
tages of climate and locality which they possess, 
both as to what may be done and what should 
be left undone. To give a case in point: In 
passing the other day along a row of pleasantly- 
situated villas facing the sea, a charming arrange¬ 
ment for an entrance to a dwelling came under 
my notice. The houses at each end of the row 
had originally been built alike—with a covered 
way leading to the principal entrance, but with 
three open archways at one side. The happy 
thought of glazing the archways and turning 
the portico into a fernery occurred to the tasteful 
owner of the first of these houses. Remember¬ 
ing the freemasonry which so pleasantly exists 
between members of the gardening fraternity, 
I ventured to ask leave to make nearer acquain¬ 
tance with the pretty fernery, and not only 
did the lady of the house most courteously make 
me welcome, but also gave me many interesting 
details as to how the arrangement had been 
managed. The blank surface of the wall was 
clothed with a luxuriant growth of ferns planted 
in pockets, which were built into it, the wall 
itself, as it was explained to me, being hollowed 
out behind the pockets, each of which was slated 
at the back to prevent the damp penetrating 
through to the wall of the dining-room on the 
other side. Consequently a good deal more root 
room was allowed for the ferns than appeared 
at first sight, which was one secret, possibly, of 
the free and healthy growth essential to their 
perfect beauty. The pockets were made of 
clinkers washed over with concrete, and being 
of the same grey tone of colour as the wall 
itself, and nearly overgrown with the drooping 
fronds of the ferns, were scarcely noticeable. 
These pockets were supplemented by various 
contrivances for brackets and hanging baskets; 
while all the available spaces close to the glazed 
archways were filled with bright flowering 
pot plants. The beautiful fronds of a 
New Zealand tree fern drooped from the 
top, and, though becoming almost too large 
for its position, was admirably placed. The 
great charm of the fernery was its very natural 
arrangement and the perfect health of the plants 
in it. Hardy Ferns, or such as simply need protec¬ 
tion from frost, were the only ones employed. 
Of British species, I noticed especially fine 
specimens of Asplenium marinum, A. viride, and 
Adiantum Capillus veneris, all of which naturally 
luxuriate in the warm sea air. Other species of 
Adiantum had been tried, however, with little 


success, owing to unavoidable draughts, whici 
are peculiarly hurtful to this delicate familj 
The Ferns, therefore,-were chiefly Lose of mor 
robust growth, stall ^bhlbiferutr 


with different species of Pteris, Onycbium, 
Cyrtomium falcatum, and others. The whole 
arrangement was made, as I was assured, with 
little cost, while the careful culture of two years 
had been sufficient to produce the luxuriant 
growth which is not only a delight to its owners, 
but also a boon to the pedestrian, for the passer¬ 
by can scarcely fail to notice the deliciously cool 
look of the ferny vestibule, and to learu a lesson 
thereby. It may be added that the Ferns were 
planted when quite small, and had made their 
growth without further removal. A bright, care¬ 
fully-tended little garden belonged to the house, 
and was pointed out to me in contrast to those 
of the neighbouring villas, several of which were 
destitute of any attempt at cultivation, giving 
an unhomely look, all the more noticeable by 
force of contrast. One could not but feel how 
great was the loss of enjoyment to those who 
think such matters beneath their attention. 1 
commend the above idea to anyone having an 
ugly, bare-looking portico, which with a little 
ingenuity and pains taking might be converted 
into a charming addition, always fuUof interest, 
to their dwelling. The endless variety in form 
and growth amongst Ferns, no less than in tone 
of colour, prevents all fear of monotonous effect 
in their arrangement, but strong-growing species 
will answer best for such positions. It should 
have been mentioned that a glass door shut in 
the fernery at night and during inclement 
weather, and the Ferns are well cared for with 
water, and syringed once a week. 

* 

It is somewhat disappointing to see so little 
variety in the ordinary garden vegetation of the 
Isle of Wight. With Buch capabilities of climate, 
what might not be grown ? Still there are signs 
of increasing knowledge in plant culture wherever 
one goes. At Shanklin, a lovely mauve-coloured 
Passion Flower, not commonly met with, was 
growing with great luxuriance under the shelter 
of a verandah, and I came across another variety 
or the Bame species in an unheated greenhouse in 
Sandown. Oddly enough, it was in the garden 
(little more than 3 yards square) of a fisherman's 
cot, on a lonely part of the shore, that a greater 
number of old favourites were growing together 
than I had elsewhere noticed. Carnations were 
the pride of the little plot, splendid specimens 
of dark crimson cloves more especially, which 
must constantly have received showers of salt 
spray from the close neighbourhood of the dash¬ 
ing waves. But pale blue Spanish Iris, white 
Anemone japonica (apparently not yet a familiar 
plant in the Island), Persian Goat’s Rue, and fine 
white Lilies were growing in that tiny space, with 
several other good hardy plants, showing what 
love of a garden can do, under circumstances as¬ 
suredly at first sight unfavourable, and where it 
seemed scarcely worth while to attempt any cul¬ 
tivation at all. The cottage itself was a bower of 
cluster Roses, Honeysuckle, and rampant Globe 
Fuchsias, and even Annuals were not forgotten, 
for some beautiful crimson Godetias gave a glow 
of colour amongst the white flowers, which were 
evidently prime favourites with the fisherman- 
gardener. “ My husband meets with them one 
place or another," was the good housewife’s reply 
to my admiring remarks about her pretty garden, 
and she showed our party, with great pride, several 
arrangements of delicate, many-coloured sea¬ 
weed—* 1 Flowers of the Sea ”—most tastefully 
designed by her children, and which had taken 
first, second, and third prizes at a local show. 
The memory of that tiny garden will often recur 
as an example of what may be done, with good 
will to aid, under adverse circumstances. 

* 

It was a great pleasure one day to spend an 
hour in the garden of a true lover of plants, 
though that pleasure was marred by the absence 
of its kind owner. Time failed to notice a tithe 
of the interesting hardy plants and Bhrubs with 
which the borders and rockeries abounded, 
although the present is not the most favourable 
of all seasons in which to time a visit to such a 
garden, as a little pause seems to come in the 
matter of blooming between early summer and 
early autumn plants. Many of the Lilies and 
flowering shrubs were past their beauty, never¬ 
theless plenty of blossom was left to satisfy any 
one in Bearcli of new and rare plants. Cyclo- 
bothra fusca, with curious dusky brown flowers, 
was the only representative at present in bloom 
of that interesting group of bulbs. It is not so 
handsome or so well suited for ordinary gardens 


as C. flava, whose golden shell-like flowers I saw 
two summers ago produced in great abundance 
in the same garden ; yet it possesses an interest 
of its own amongst a good collection. A clump 
of Montbretia Pottsi was in beautiful bloom, 
proving itself a desirable plant for the open 
border, and close to it grew a tall Cape Gladiolus, 
with pale yellow, purple-blotched flowers, 
apparently akin to, if not identical with, G. trifle, 
which the gardener could not name, but de¬ 
scribed as a “terrible rambler”—an excellent 
fault in so beautiful a plant, which will, not un¬ 
likely, speed its rambliDg into other gardens. 
Leucojum autumnale may be noted as a late- 
flowering summer bulb, not too often seen, 
which, though small, is so dainty that no choice 
collection should be without it. At first sight 
it is not easily recognisable as a sister plant of 
L. vemum and L. sestivum. Those who have only- 
grown Begonia Vietchi in pots should imme¬ 
diately try it in a suitable position in the open 
border. A plant of this species was most bril¬ 
liant on a sunny rockery, and my own experience 
in a very different climate and soil to that of 
“ the Island" confirms the opinion that the best 
plan for its successful treatment is planting 
out. For a year or two a fine bulb has been 
languishing in a pot with me, and careful culture, 
both in greenhouse and cold frame, availing 
nothing, a hopeful position was found for it, as 
a last resource, at the foot of a south wall, when 
the progress made in a single week convinced 
me that root room was what was wanted. As a 
rule, the hardy section of tuberous Begonias are 
under-potted. I notice a question in this week’s 
Gardening on this subject, and would state that 
I have found the best results follow from the 
shifting-on system with this class of Begonias, 
which, contrary to the habit of many other 
plants, require plenty of root room to ensure 
abundant bloom. In planting out B. Veitchi, it 
will be safer to give it a covering of coal ashes 
for the winter, but I should certainly leave it 
undisturbed in a dry, well drained soil. To my 
mind, a well grown plant of B. Veitchi or of B. 
Davisi, which was also to my surprise growing 
in the open border in the garden I speak of, 
possesses greater interest than the hybrids, hand¬ 
some as they are, which are now becoming 
almost as generaUy grown as zonal Pelargo¬ 
niums. Some fine plants of Amebia echioides 
in fuU bloom showed that the soil and climate 
in which they were growing Buited them to per¬ 
fection. Sparaxis pulcherrima seemed also in 
a fair way to solve the difficulty of successful 
cultivation, judging from the numerous flower- 
spikes with buds only ju6t beginning to open 
at the time of my visit. These, in company with 
Ixias and other allied plants, were growing in a 
cold frame from which the lights had been en¬ 
tirely removed. A very fine plant of Linum 
viscosum, with bright rose-coloured blossoms 
wide open in the sunshine, was very effective, but 
Alpine and Iceland Poppies seemed scarcely so 1 
much at home in the warm dry soil and air of the 
Isle of Wight as in cooler regions. Against a wall, 1 

Fremontia californica was evidently thriving, 
and a flourishing plant of a species of Indigofera 
was also in full perfection of beauty, covering ' 
its space of wall with rosy-purple blossom. The 
rockeries abounded with choice Alpines, amongst 
which I would fain have lingered, hut time n 
failed me, and I was obliged to bid adieu to the 
well-furnished garden which had given me so 
much pleasure. ^ 

* “l 

Many persons are lovers of wild flowers who 
care but little for cultivating a garden. To snch >' 
holiday ramblers, let a word be said in behalf of ^ 
seaside plants, which possess an interest of their .i, 
own, from the fact of their being seldom met 
with. One of the handsomest of these is the 
Sea Holly (Eryngium maritimum), the stiff, 
prickly, glaucous foliage and blue flower-heads of -j 
which are more suggestive of a thistle than of 
the umbelliferous tribe to which it belongs. The j 

Homed Poppy (Glaucium luteum) is another , 
conspicuous plant on the sandy seashore, attract- j 
ing notice as much by its hoary foliage as by its ^ 
yellow flowers and the long seed pods which give , 
it its distinctive name. This last, however, was 
absent from a very favourable locality for sea- j 
side plants, a Bandy common on the shore, where 
a stroll the other day was rewarded by a handful 
of interesting weeds. The thin wiry grass was .' 
profusely dotted over with the purple-blue spikes ’ 

of the autumnal Squill (Soii)a antumnalis), 
amongst which grew a considerable sprinkling ol j 


Sept. 8, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


299 


its pare white variety. This species, though not so 
handsome as its congener, the vernal Squill (S. 
vema), is somewhat rare, which gives it honour 
in the eyes of the plant collector. It is, happily, 
scarcely showy enough to tempt the extermina¬ 
tor. Interspersed with the Squill were bright 
clamps of Thrift (Armeria maritima), giving the 
cheerful look of a garden to the otherwise 
dreary sand hills, with Yellow Wort (Chlora 
parfoliata) and pink-flowered Centaury (Eryth- 
raja Centaurium) as companions. Close to the 
shore the lovely rose-colonred flowers of the Sea 
Bindweed (Calystegia soldanella) were beginning 
to open in the cool of the evening, contrary to 
custom, surely, in a “ morning glory;" but the 
Evening Primrose (CEnothera biennis) did not 
so belie its name, but displayed its pale, golden 
blossoms in some numbers on the sandy dunes. 
Two species of Clover—the Hare’s-foot (Tri¬ 
folium arvense) and the Strawberry-headed (T. 
fragifemm)—were very abundant, together with 
another less noticeable species—Rigid trefoil 
(T. scabrum). A large patch of a white variety 
of common Restharrow (Ononis arvensis) 
attracted attention ; as also did a large-flowered, 
pure white variety of the Field Bindweed (Con¬ 
volvulus arvensis), with remarkably narrow, 
arrow-Bhaped leaves, suggesting that either the 
poverty of the sandy soil or the close proximity 
of the sea might tend to the production of these 
“albinos.” On another occasion the narrow-leaved 
Everlasting Pea (Lathyrus sylvestris) rewarded 
a climb over some rough, broken ground clothed 
with brushwood above a rocky beach, growing 
in great, strong clumps, and over-topping in 
many places the surrounding thicket. There, 
also, were gathered the sweet-scented blossoms 
of the dwarf Elder (Sambucus Ebulus), a her¬ 
baceous species not commonly met with. The 
delicate sprays of the climbing Corydalis (C. 
clavicnlata) rambling in great profusion over 
the rugged Gorse bushes of a common made a 
pretty contrast, from which a hint for garden 
combinations might be wisely taken. Nature 
sets many such lessons before us, which are too 
often passed by unheeded. Amongst many 
common species of Pea-flowers, it was pleasant 
to meet with the very local Slender Vetch or 
Tare (Vicia gracilis) growing on a stony, unfre¬ 
quented roadway, which proves that, to a plant 
lover, scarcely any locality can be wholly devoid 
of interest. To the botanist, the vegetation of 
the seashore offers many more plants of interest, 
but the above-named are amongst some of the 
most likely to attract the notice of the unlearned 
tourist, to whom this brief reminder may be of 
some slight use. For the sake of the gardener, 
it may be well to mention that the Sea Holly, 
Horned Poppy, and Sea Bindweed are all good 
plants, worthy of cultivation in ordinary garden 
soil with a large admixture of sand. They will 
not transplant, however, from their native 
habitats, and must, perforce, be raised from 
seed, by which means they may be readily pro¬ 
pagated, and so may serve as pleasant mementoes 
in our gardens of holiday rambles by the sea. 
K. L. D. 


TUBBS AND SHRUBS. 

ANDROMEDA 8PECIOSA. 

Tins is one of the many North American plants 
belonging to the Ericaceae commonly met with 
in gardens, and, like most of its class, very 
floriferous. It is a deciduous shrub, which grows 
about 3 feet or 4 feet in height, and bears pure 
white bell-shaped Lily of the Valley-like flowers 
in great profusion during the summer months. 
As often seen, however, it has a stunted and un¬ 
happy appearance, owing to being planted in too 
dry a situation. In its native country it inhabits 
swampy districts ; therefore it does best with us 
in damp, shaded parts of the garden. The 
Andromeda* form pretty objects for conserva¬ 
tory decoration when forced into flower in the 
spring; the pure white blossoms have a very 
chaste appearance, and the distinct hue of the 
variety pulvernlenta shows up conspicuously 
amongst its green-leaved associates. Like the 
rest of the Ericaceae, the roots of the Andro¬ 
medas form a dense, compact mass, and there¬ 
fore the plants can be taken up from the open 
ground and potted without injury. So readily, 
indeed, are all of this class removed at anytime 
except- when making their growth, and so well 
do they open their blossoms in a warm house, 
that many of them are largely used for spring 
decoration indoors. Among’those commcnly so 

[ VjO gre 


applied mention may be made of the Rhodo¬ 
dendron, Azalea, and Kalmia, while for this 
purpose the Andromeda, although well adapted, 
is but seldom seen. The annexed illustra¬ 
tion gives a good idea of the appearance of this 
plant, which is also known as Zenobia speciosa. 
Andromeda polifolia (the Wild Rosemary), a 
native of Britain, Northern Europe, and North 
America, is a shrub which grows about 1 foot 
high, and which produces pale red bell-shaped 
flowers in terminal bunches during the summer 
months. Of this there are several varieties, all 
of which, like the species, prefer a moist, peaty 
soil. A. calyculata is an evergreen shrub which 
grows about 2 feet in height; its branches arch 
over in a very graceful manner, and in April or 
May the upper portions of the shoots become 
thickly studded with white bell-shaped flowers. 
The leaves are stnall, oblong in shape, and 


along the adjacent coast would convince them, 
for one can hardly find a garden, however small, 
without some member of the genus. As pot 
plants they are used in unlimited quantities; 
and wherever the State lands around the fortifi¬ 
cations are laid out or kept as dressed grounds, 
the Euonymus forms the most conspicuous of 
evergreens for beds, hedges, and as single speci¬ 
mens. There are numerous forms of variega¬ 
tion in the Euonymus, but for hedges the plain 
green kind is the best. A beautiful, cheerful 
green it is, and all the more conspicuous when 
contrasted with the bruised and weather-beaten 
foliage of almost every tree that rears its head 
a few feet above the ground; for the ruthless 
winds, even in what are not exceptional gales, 
leave their mark on nearly all kinds of vegeta¬ 
tion at all exposed to their fury; and when 
highly charged with briny particles they soon settle 



Andromeda speciosa. A hardy shrub. Flowers white. 


underneath very rusty. A. paniculata forms an 
upright deciduous shrub 4 feet or 5 feet in 
height; its flowers are small and produced in 
great profusion on the ends of the shoots, which 
are there nearly destitute of leaves. A most 
handsome kind is A. floribunda, the beautiful 
pure white flowers of which, whether on the 
plant or in a cut state in water, last in perfection 
a very long time. Andromeda formosa is a strong 
growing shrub, with thick, dark coloured, oval 
shaped leaves, and spikes of white flowers 
slightly tinged with green. It is very handsome 
when in good condition, but, being a native of 
Nepaul, it is liable to be injured, except in the 
west of England, during severe winters. 


The Euonymus as a seaside shrub 

—If anyone were sceptical as to the merits of 
the Euonymus for seaside planting, a ramble 
through Gosport, Portsmouth, Southsea, and 


the fate of such trees or shrubs as are not suited 
to the locality. The Euonymus is certainly by 
far the most weather-proof of the limited num¬ 
ber able to stand the full force of the sea breezes 
that at times threaten to tear up the trees and 
shrubs exposed to them by the root. It is not, 
therefore, surprising to find that, in proportion 
to top growth, a very large quantity of roots is 
necessary to keep them steadfast in the soil, 
and the Euonymus is a vigorous and abundant 
rooter.— R. 0. 


Destruction of red spider.— This di¬ 
minutive insect is one of the most troublesome 
pests that owners of gardens have to contend 
with, as it cannot be destroyed by fumigation 
like aphides. Its presence is invariably followed 
by much worse consequences to the leaves of the 
plants it gets established on than with aphides. 
Many people are deterred from attempting the 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






300 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Seft. 8, 1883. 


growth o£ such subjects as it is especially par¬ 
tial to, which necessarily limits the variety pre¬ 
sent in greenhouses and conservatories during 
the summer months when it is most prevalent. 
Yet this is a mistake, as where sufficient means 
are taken from the spring onwards to prevent 
its ever getting a lodgment, there is no danger of 
any plant being injured through it. All that is 
necessary is a daily and sufficient use of the 
syringe with clean water, not simply sprinkling 
the upper sides of the leaves in the way too 
generally deemed sufficient, but which in most 
cases i3 wholly useless so far as keeping down 
the pest, which instinct teaches, both for protec¬ 
tion and food, to keep on most plants almost 
entirely to the undersides of the leaves. Conse¬ 
quent upon this no amount of water that only 
reaches the upper surface can affect it. This is 
one of those small matters in gardening that are 
so obvious to everyone who has any knowledge 
of insect life, so far as it affects plants, that it 
would seem all but unnecessary to mention it 
were it not a little observation is needed to see 
that for want of getting enough water continu¬ 
ously through the growing season to the parts 
where the spider takes up its quarters, unlimited 
numbers of plants suffer in a way that makes 
them more an eyesore than an object of interest 
and beauty. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 


Ertracti from a Garden Diary — September 10 

to September 15. 

Sowing Red and White Turnip Radishes in cold pita ; 
pricking out Cauliflowers and Red Cabbage plants; clear¬ 
ing oif a piece of Turnips, and heavily manuring and 
digging the ground for Coleworts ; clearing out Melons 
from pits, adding a little more soil and manure, and 
planting them with dwarf Beans for winter bearing; 
tying up Lettuces and covering up Endive to blanch; 
cutting back all young growth of Tomatoes, and exposing 
the unripe fruit to the sun; clearing off the surface of 
early Vine border, and giving it a top-dressing of loam, 
horse manure, and coal ashes ; potting Dutch bulbs in a 
mixture of loam, manure, charcoal, and sand ; Ailing up 
all spare frames with Lettuce and Endive ; dressing early 
Black Ilamburgh Vines with composition to kill insects ; 
erecting a temporary frame over pot Strawberries on 
which to place spare lights to throw off heavy rains; 
rolling newly made gravel walks ; looking over all young 
fruit trees, and applying new ties ana stakes wlierc 
necessary; gathering Hawthornden, Cellini, and Golden 
Pippin Apples ; also a few Golden Drop Plums. 

Putting in cuttings of Cerastium under hand-lights; 
potting oil Centaurca candidissima as soon as rooted ; 
also putting a few Primulas and Cinerarias into their 
flowering pots for early blooming ; weeding and thinning 
out all overgrown Parsley; hoeing amongst all late- 
planted Endive and Lettuce; putting in Tomato cuttings 
to furnish plants for early fruiting; shaking out and 
repotting old plants of tricolor Pelargoniums ; thinning 
out Endive and Lettuce; manuring and roughly digging 
the ground previously occupied by Cauliflowers; weeding 
and cutting the runners off pot Strawberries; preparing 
frames for Cauliflower plants by putting a thick layer of 
green turf Grass side downwards, and then 1 inch of good 
mould in which to prick out the plants, which are placed 
0 Inches apart oach way; gathering Berberries, R* ino 
Claude de Bavay, and Coe’s Golden Drop Plums ; putting 
in Tom Thumb and Indian-yellow Pelargoniums in large 
store boxes and pots; earthing up Celery when the soil 
is dry ; thinning autumn-sown Carrots and Turnips ; 
weeding Box edgings; gathering Gangers Bergamot, 
Citron des Cannes, and Dunmore Seedling Pears, and 
Ribston Pippin Apples. 

CUaashoueoa. 

Over-crowding is the bane of good gardening, 
and in no department more so than with plants 
cultivated in pots; with the addition of new 
plants, and the yearly propagation of others, com¬ 
bined with the increase in size of all, there is 
a continual tendency towards glass structures 
getting fuller than is consistent with the 
healthy existence of the whole. To avoid 
this, it is much better at this season to go 
carefully over the whole stock, and without 
hesitation to discard such as are of least value 
and use. By this course not only will the supply 
of flowers during winter and spring be more 
plentiful, but the plants retained will be im¬ 
measurably better than where, by attempting too 
much, the object in viewis defeated. Theadventof 
frosty nights often comes on with little warning, 
necessitating tender plants that have been in the 
open air being hurried indoors, and if such work 
as above suggested is at once completed, much 
labour and confusion is avoided. Where there 
are several houses and pits to be thus filled, 
care should be taken that the best, and lightest 
places are given to all such as naturally make 
more or less growth through the winter. This ap¬ 
plies to both hard and soft-wooded things, for 
although amongst such of the former as make a 
little shoot extension in tho winter months, the 
growth will not be sD-jpuch as to amse so great 

Digitized by GOOgle 


mischief as in the freer-growing, soft-wooded 
kinds, still the injury in their case is more lasting. 
Camellias, Azaleas, and others of like nature, that 
make no leaf progress until after the turn of the 
days, will bear standing closer than many varie¬ 
ties of Heath, or such others of the hard-wooded 
familyaskeep moving more or less. Pelargoniums, 
above all others, must have enough room, and re¬ 
quire the best light position that is at command. 
Kalosanthes, again, should be alike favourably 
dealt with, keeping them as close to the roof glass 
as possible ; upon this depends the successful 
flowering of several of the less free-blooming 
sorts, such as the old K. coccinea and some of the 
finer new Continental varieties, which, in addition 
to full exposure to the sun in the open air during 
summer, require all the light that can be given 
them in winter. In houses or pits that from their 
position are constructed to afford insufficient 
light to the inmates, and where there is an ab¬ 
sence of permanent staging such as to sufficiently 
elevate the plants to the roof, improvised shelves 
or stages may often with advantage be used. The 
condition in the spring of all plants that make 
any growth in winter, when so accommodated, 
will be found very different from that of those 
less favourably situated. 

Veronicas and Salvias. 

Where these have been planted ont for the 
summer, with a view to their being taken up 
and potted, it is well to have all the necessary 
materials in the shape of soil and pots ready, 
and to make a beginning to so transfer them, 
for in all cases they will be much benefited by 
being stood in pits or frames for a few days, 
where, by putting on the lights and keeping 
them shut up, they will begin to root, and 
will then suffer little or no loss of their leaves. 
With soft-wooded, vigorous-rooted things of this 
nature give plenty of water, so as to fully moisten 
the soil. 

Tree Carnations and Solanums. 

Where these have been similarly planted out 
for the summer, they may at any time now be 
lifted and potted, as, with the Carnations in 
particular, it is not well to let them stand out 
until their growth, which for the last month 
will have been considerable, gets at all checked. 
These Carnations should on no account be potted 
in a like way to the generality of plants, that is 
by compressing the soil hard in the pots. If 
made near so solid as found beneficial to most 
things, they root very indifferently; they also 
require lighter soil than many plants—good 
fibrous loam, not too heavy, with the addition of 
a considerable amount of leaf-mould and some 
sand. Leaving it in a comparatively light con¬ 
dition about their roots usually results in their 
doing best if carefully taken up; placing them 
in no larger pots than will fairly admit their 
roots, lightly watered, and set in frames or any¬ 
where where they can have a glass covering 
overhead in the case of heavy, continuous rains, 
will be best. Solanums must be well soaked 
immediately they are potted, and should be stood 
for a fortnight under a north wall, or in pits or 
frames where they can be kept shut up somewhat 
close until they have got established, when there 
will be no loss of their lower leaves, which, if 
absent, so much disfigures them. 

Bouvardias. 

Young plants of these that were struck late in 
the spring and are now in cold frames or pits 
will this season be deficient in size through the 
absence of sun heat. Where this is the case they 
should be at once taken up and potted, and 
placed where they will receive enough heat to 
keep up free growth until sufficiently large to 
yield a full crop of flowers. Early-struck stock 
that have attained enough size should be treated 
in accordance with the time they are required to 
flower. Such as are i ntended to bloom later on 
during the winter ought to be kept cool, but when 
the weather gets colder, they must not remain in 
too low a temperature, otherwise they will flower 
indifferently. Old plants that were cut back in 
the spring, and may have been stood ont in the 
open air, will now be well set with flowers, and 
should not be allowed to stop out after the 
nights are chilly. 

Chrysanthemums 

should now have sufficient stakes and ties put 
to them to support the shoots without giving a 
stiff, formal appearance. Willows with the bark 
on can with advantage he used for these and 
other plants that only want support for a limited 


time, as they cost less than ordinary painted deal 
sticks, and look better. Chrysanthemums are 
setting their flowers generally earlier this season 
than they have done for the last year or two, 
and at this period of their growth must be 
liberally supplied with manure water, for as the 
soil in the pots will now be full of roots, any de¬ 
ficiency of sustenance will affect both the 
quantity and size of the flowers. 

Herbaceous Calceolarias. 

A second sowing of these may yet be made, hut 
must not longer be deferred, or the seedlings 
will not become strong enough to get satis¬ 
factorily through the winter. Plants from this 
late sowing will give a successional crop of 
flowers after the earliest are over. As soon as 
the plants from the first sowing are large enough 
to beat all handled, they should be pricked off 
into shallow pans about 1£ inches apart. Young 
hands at the cultivation of these most effective 
flowers should be careful in all stages of their 
growth not to pot them in too heavy soil; good 
friable loam with a fifth or a sixth of leaf-mould 
and a good sprinkling of sand, with the soil not 
pressed so hard in the pots as most things require, 
is what they like. If material of this description 
is sifted and used for pricking them ont, they 
can be removed from it at potting time without 
the loss of roots, which is unavoidable when 
heavy soil is employed. 

Flower Garden. 

Shrubberies. 

The rearrangement, thinning ont, or making of 
new plantations of shrubs may now be com¬ 
menced as soon as circumstances permit, on 
lights soil more especially. Autumn planting is 
preferable to spring because of the longer period 
there is for the plants to get established before 
there is any danger of drought affecting them ; 
indeed,only when very heavy soils are concerned 
is it desirable to defer planting till early spring. 
From the middle of September to the end of 
November may be said to be the best shrub and 
tree planting season of the whole year. Deep 
trenching iB the first essential, and manure in 
proportion to the requirements of the soil. Light 
sandy or gravelly soils should be given all the 
stable manure that can be afforded; indifferent 
peaty soils the same manure or else plenty of 
decayed leaves; but good loam and peat need no 
other preparation than to be broken up deeply 
and to be freed from all perennial weeds, such as 
Couch, Nettles, and Docks. The margins or bor¬ 
ders of shrubberies where no alterations are con¬ 
templated, after being cleaned up, may be 
planted with spring flowers, such as Forget-me- 
nots, Silenes, Primroses, Violas, bulbs, &c. r there 
usually being plenty of such plants to spare after 
due provision has been made for the regular 
flower beds and borders. 

Bockeey, Fernery, and Sub-tropical 
Garden. 

Weeding and cutting away dead flower-stems 
and fronds, keeping paths free from weeds, and 
taking cuttings of such rockwork plants as it is 
desired to increase, are operations that now re¬ 
quire attention. Among.it sub-tropicals, tying 
to supports is the most important need. Castor- 
oils, Hemps, Blue Gums, and similar tall growers, 
now when they are so large, quickly snap off 
with but little wind or wet unless tied up as 
growth advances. Keep edgings neatly cut and 
the undergrowth plants stopped back before 
they encroach on or mar the effect of the larger 
plants. Single Dahlias seem to be appropriate 
plants for intermixing with some kinds of non¬ 
flowering sub-tropicals; they associate ext remely 
well with the Castor-oils and white-foliaged 
Solanums. Note should be made of this fact 
and of other striking arrangements for next 
season's use. 

General Work. 

This increases daily, there being now so much 
sweeping up of leaves and worm-casts; where 
practicable, use lime-water for the destruction 
of worms. Pick over the flower beds frequently, 
and if the cuttings for next season’s stock are 
not yet taken, that should now be one of the 
first jobs for completion. Cuttmgs struck should 
be placed in cold frames, and the lights be drawn 
off daily; those that are being struck in frames 
should be exposed as soon as rooted (o bring 
them up sturdily, the better to withstand the 
winter. Tie up Asters, Everlastings, and any 
plants of a herbaceous character that would be 
or look the better for such supports. 




Sept. 8, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


301 


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Vegetables. 

We are now making preparation for our early 
Cabbage crop by heavily manuring the border 
this season occupied with Peas. It is my usual 
custom to sow Spinach after Peas, but I find this 
to be anything but a paying crop, and Cabbages 
early and good will pay I find early Cabbage 
ground to be a good bite for Brussels Sprouts, put 
in crowbar fashion. I used to grow Brussels 
Sprouts as large as small Cabbages, but was told 
they had no flavour, a statement which first set 
me thinking that fresh manure was not the 
thing to use; hence ground after Cabbage gets 
nothing in the shape of manure. Young Cauli¬ 
flowers should now be np and growing. Keep 
weeds down by hoeing between the rows, an 
operation which loosens the soil, and thus does 
the plants great service. Planting Lettuce, 
Endive, and earthing up Celery must have just 
now onr best attention. Sowing Lettuce (Black- 
seeded Brown Cos) for a spring supply must be 
done at once. The moist weather invites our 
friends, the slugs, ont from their hiding places, 
to which I take care never to allow them to 
return by adopting the good old plan of laying 
handfuls of Pea haulm round the border or 
quarter to be planted ; every second morning we 
visit these wisps and scatter fresh lime on the 
slags, which kills all at once. The Celery 
quarter is treated in the same way. We shall be 
lifting Magnum Bonum Potatoes this week, all 
prizes and no blanks ; add Champions to them, 
and yonr collection of late Potatoes for the 
present time is oomplete. Cat all herbs for 
drying, distilling, kc , and do not forget to have 
a general brush np every Saturday.—R. G. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 
Beddixg plants of most kinds will now be 
getting past their best, so what is wanting in 
brilliancy mast be made np by extra neatness 
in all parts of the garden. After so long a 
continuance of dry weather a plentiful supply 
of water will be almost au absolute necessity, 
particularly on the light, overdrained soils so 
frequently met with in and near London. The 
evening is the best time for watering out of 
doors, and if any, a thorough supply must be 
given; soak the roots first, then give a good 
shower all over the foliage. Chrysanthemums, 
especially those in pots, should never want for 
moisture ; they will take no harm if allowed to 
get a little dry on a hot day, but the foliage 
most never flag to any extent; in the evening, 
soak them thoroughly with liquid manure, if at 
all pot bound, and when yon are sure that every 
fibre of root is moistened, drench them over¬ 
head with clean water. Remember that it is of 
the utmost importance that these plants shonld 
be in fall and vigorous growth when the buds 
are setting, which will take place very shortly; 
if they experience the least check at the critical 
point there will be no flowers worth having, and as 
the Chrysanthemum is a plant that anyone can 
grow, and that will grow and grow well almost 
anywhere, it is worth while to bestow all the care 
you can on your plants. When a little used to it, 
the liquid manure can hardly be too strong; a 
decoction of guano, horse or cow dung, sewage, 
or the like, will suit them well, either alone 
or all given alternately; and sulphate of am¬ 
monia has also a wonderful effect in develop¬ 
ing fine blooms. 

The Perennial Phloxes are now in full 
beauty in the open borders ; many of the newer 
varieties are very much larger and finer in the 
bloom than the old kinds, as well as clearer and 
brighter in colour; indeed, no town garden 
shonld be without a good, even if a small, collec¬ 
tion, they are so very showy and easy to grow. 

Michaelmas Daisies should be well watered 
and attended to, so as to induce a fine bloom, 
which will be very valuable presently. Among 
other things the Anemone japonica, both white 
and pink, are now comiDg into bloom, and must 
charm all lovers of flowers by their delicate 
beauty. 

Dutch bulbs of nearly all kinds may now be 
purchased and potted for an early batch. Treat 
them the same as recommended for Roman 
Hyacinths last week. B. C. R. 


House slops and Gooseberry trees.—For some 
vesrs this manure has been poured round the Gooseberry 
bushes In sprlnft. and we are scarcely ever troub'sd with 
green caterpillars on the le&’W.—I^is 


VEGETABLES. 

PLANTING CABBAGES. 

A good piece of ground, upon which to plant 
early Cabbages, should now be dug over. Those 
sown in July will, by this time, be large enough 
to plant out. It is not well to manure heavily 
at the time of preparing the ground; for, if 
mnch is pnt in for this crop, it has the effect of 
inducing over-luxnriant growth,-which should be 
avoided. Although the Cabbage is very hardy, 
yet, if the plants are forced into rank growth, 
they are often cut off in severe winters; con¬ 
sequently, it is better at this season to plant on 
soils that have been manured well for some 
previous crop. Ground where Onions have been 
grown and which by this time will be cleared, 
will, if simply dug over, answer all purposes. 

In planting at this seasom some distinction 
should be made iu the different kinds: small¬ 
growing sorts, such as the Cocoa-nut, may be 
put in 9 inches apart in the rows with intervals 
of 2 feet between the rows. In the spring, as 
soon as they are at all fit for use, every other 
one can be taken out, leaving the remainder to 
develop more fully. Larger kinds, like Enfield 
Market, should be put in 1 foot apart in the 
rows, in like manner taking out in the spring 
every alternate Cabbage; these larger growers 
shonld also have 2 feet between the rows. When 
putting them out use a little soot and lime to 
each plant, for, although this autumn-planted 
crop is not liable to suffer through clubbing in 
the way that the spring and summer plantings 
do, still these have the effect of keeping away 
slugs. In planting all the Brassica family, 
amateur gardeners are apt to err in either not 
putting them in sufficiently deep, or go to the 
other extreme of half burying the leaves. If the 
former mistake is made the wind blows them 
abont in a way that does mnch mischief; and if 
too deep they do not do well. 

Whatever size the plants are they should be 
planted so that the bottom leaves will be on a 
level with the surface ; this does away with the 
necessity for making the ridges too high in hoeing 
up. It the land is moderately dry it is a good 
plan to make with the hoe shallow trenches, 5 
inches or 6 inches deep, planting in the bottom 
of these. The advantage of this is that a portion 
of the soil in the so-formed intervening ridges 
can be drawn to support the plants before winter, 
and the remainder, thus a little elevated, acts as 
a protection from cutting, frosty winds, and in 
the spring can be put to the plants, still leaving 
them nearly on a level with the surface, thus 
enabling the whole of the roots to receive fuller 
benefit from rain than if placed on a high ridge 
that throws off the water. In ground that is in¬ 
sufficiently drained this plan will not answer for 
autumn planting, as the crop would be liable to 
suffer from too much wet. 

All the Cabbage family are surface-rooting, 
and do not push their roots down to any con¬ 
siderable depth ; consequently, unless where the 
soil is extremely shallow, the above practice 
may with advantage be followed. For the 
summer crops this Bystem can also be recom¬ 
mended, as it admits of the plants being earthed 
up sufficiently without a ridge of any consequence 
being formed, and which, for the reason above 
stated, is better absent. When the space in¬ 
tended for the principal crop is filled, it is 
advisable to prepare a small corner in which to 
put some plants for a reserve: these may be 
pricked out about 6 inches apart, and will come 
in for filling up any gaps that may occur through 
the effects of a severe winter. 


SHALLOTS AND GARLIC. 

These esculents are in every way so nearly re¬ 
lated, that cultural notes given in reference to the 
one may safely be taken as suitable for the other. 
Except in rare instances, however, their cultiva¬ 
tion is somewhat neglected.a circumstance owing, 
no doubt, to the fact that there is not mnch de¬ 
mand for them. That, however, ought not to be 
accepted as a reason for neglecting their culture, 
for tbongh we may be required to grow but few, 
it is surely worth while to grow those few well. 
The most suitable soil for them is a strong loam 
that has been manured the previous autumn and 
left to mellow under the winter’s frost. This 
should be broken down smoothly with a rake 
early in February,and the bulbs should be planted 
in rows 16 inches from each other and 9 inches 


apart in the row. No dibber shonld be used; the 
bulbs should bo pressed into the ground with the 
fingers only. As soon as they begin to make roots 
it is necessary to give them another press down, 
or the roots will upheave the bulbs out of the 



Common’.Sh&lIot. 


ground. Beyond hoeing to keep the surface of 
the soil open, little else in the way of culture is 
needed to insure success. In order to obtain 
handsome produce, select the finest and best 



Garlic. 


shaped bulbs for planting. As regards varieties, 
they are not numerous, and what there are vary 
but little in any respect except in colour and 
size, the quality of all being about alike, and all 
are no doubt more improved by constant selec¬ 
tion of the finest for reproduction than by seed. 



Jersey Shallot. 


The ordinary pale red-skinned is perhaps the 
most profitable kind to grow; it is certainly far 
more productive and hardier than the larger 
deep red-skinned J ersey variety. The common 
English variety of Garlic is the only kind that 
need be grown. 


Keeping Oelery.— Pitting Celery is, I ap¬ 
prehend, unnecessary in this country to keep it 
till the end of spring or into summer. In the 
severest of winters I never found it difficult to 
keep it as late as the times just named. If such 
dwarf kinds as Turner’s Incomparable are grown, 
or any of its many aliases, a little dry litter 
thrown over the crop daring severe frost, and 
removed when a thaw sets in, will keep it through 
the season into May. I have had it as late as 
June. Last year being mild, Celery was not 
easily kept, as the plants ran quickly to seed; 
hut even then we had no difficulty in keeping the 
crop till April.—M. T. 

The main orop of Cauliflowers.— This 
is the time to sow the Beed for the main crop of 
Cauliflowers, and a most useful vegetable it is, 







Digitized by 


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Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Sbpt. 8, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


303 



OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


FLOWERS OF SEPTEMBER. 
Spring-sown hardy annuals of various kinds 
are now so very ornamental on rich soils that it is 
surprising they do not receive more attention, 
for if sown in succession they keep up a con¬ 
tinuous supply of flowers of the most showy 
kiod from spring until late in the autumn. 
There is no comparison between annuals sown on 
dry, hot soils, and those planted on deep, well- 
enriched ground, and the latter should always 
be chosen for them when possible. Clarkias are 
now especially showy, as are also Godetia 
Whitneyi and the taller growing G. Lindleyana. 
Dwarf crimson, yel¬ 
low, orange, and rosy 
Nasturtiums are also 
in perfection, to¬ 
gether with Phlox 
Drummondi of vari¬ 
ous colours. Convol¬ 
vulus minor. Zinnias, 
scarlet and blue Pim¬ 
pernels (Anagallis), 
rosy Rhodanthe, and 
yellow, crimson, pur¬ 
ple, and white Heli- 
chrysums,all of which 
are at present very 
attractive. A bed of 
doable and single 
flowered varieties of 
Pianthus laciniatus 
Heddewigi is now in 
perfection, some of 
the double crimson, 
white,and lilacforms 
rivalling Carnations 
in form and colour, 
while their odour is 
as delicate as that of 
the Sweet William 
(Dianthus barbatus). 

The common Cocks¬ 
comb, and its allies 
the perennial Celo- 
siae, are rarely grown 
as hardy annuals, but 
in warm rich soils 
they do well treated 
in this manner, while 
late sown Ten-week 
Stocks in good soil 
are just now in per¬ 
fection. 

Late propagated 
Pansies, and blue 
and yellow seedling 
Violas of the V. cor- 
nuta and V. grandi- 
flora or V. Intea sec¬ 
tions, are likewise 
very pretty in cool, 
shady beds. Seed¬ 
ling Antirrhinums are 
flowering well, and 
few biennials are bet¬ 
ter adapted for the 
ornamentation of dry 
hanks, combined with 
Mignonette and 
Wallflowers. Tobac¬ 
co of various kinds, 
especially the green- 
flowered Nicotiana 
rustics, and the pink- 

blossomed N. virginica, are now among the most 
stately of all half-hardy annuals, and we saw 
the other day a very effective bed of these plants 
edged with the crimson Amarantus cordatus or 
Love-lies-Bleeding. Among hardy perennials 
golden and purple flowered Rudbeckias are now 
in perfection. Tritoma Uvaria and its varieties 
ore also aglow with flame-coloured flowers. The 
rich orange-flowered Tritonia aurea is likewise 
flowering freely, as are also the blue-flowered 
African Lily (Agapanthus) and liyacintbus 
candicans, the latter bearing drooping white 
flowers on scapes 5 feet or 6 feet in height. 
Many varieties of the common Marvel of Peru 
(Mirabilis Jalapa) are also now in bloom, and 
ue especially pretty in the evening, when the 
flowers expand more freely than during the day 
time. 

Japanese Lilies of the L. spociosum and L. 
■uraturn types are still very handsome in | cool, 
*Wy positions, as are f also 


single Tiger Lilies. White scarlet, white purple, 
rose, and other tinted Gladioli are very orna¬ 
mental in herbaceous borders or in Rhododen¬ 
dron beds, where their tall spikes of bright 
flowers are seen to advantage, contrasting with 
dark green foliage. The large purple-flowered 
Senecio pulcher is flowering well, and among 
aquatics may be mentioned the golden-flowered 
Villarsia nymphicoides, while the chaste Haw¬ 
thorn scented Aponogeton distachyon can be 
seen as floriferons as ever. Evening Primroses 
(CEnotheras) are now more than usually showy, 
<E. grandiflora, (E. missouriensis. Oil. taraxaci- 
folia being the best among the dwarf section, 
and Oil. Lamarckiana among tall kinds. One 


t ^also ^th^ uv^bje aad 


Group of September Flowers. 


of the best of all perennial Composites 'now in 
bloom is Helianthus multiflorus fl.-pl., a Sun¬ 
flower which grows from 4 feet to 5 feet in 
height, each growth being terminated by bright 
yellow flowers B inches in diameter. This is 
especially useful for massing in large beds or 
borders along with Hollyhocks, Dahlias, Trlto- 
mas, Gladioli, Rudbeckias, Lilies, Fuchsias, Ery- 
thrinas. Pampas Grass, and other strong-growing 
perennials, such as Elymus arenarius and Can- 
nas. In addition to the above the following are 
alsD in bloom, viz.Cedronella cana, Tagetes 
lucida, the yellow flowered Silphium laciniatum, 
Tradeseantia virginica, Nigella hispanica, Salvia 
Horminum, different kinds of Brachycome, and 
Candytufts; the pretty, trailing. Verbena-like 
Abronia umbellate (double-flowered Lychnis), 
still one of the most effective flowers of the sea¬ 
son ; Rock Roses and Erodiums of different 
kinds, Parnassia palustris, St. John’s Worts, 
Zephyranthes, Gentiana Andrewsi, Erythriea 


Mueblenbergi, Oommelina coelestris, Centaurea 
babylonica, Anchusa capensis, the blue Sea Holly 
(Eryngium coerulesoens), Michaelmas Daisies, 
Epilobium sericeum, Liatris corymbose, Monks¬ 
hoods, Tropaeolum speciosum, Lithospermum 
prostratum, the White Japanese Windflower 
(Anemone japonica alba), and Echinops rutbe- 
nicus. 

Of autumn-flowering Campanulas, such as C. 
carpatica bicolor, with delicate white lilac-shaded 
flowers, and the dark purple C. celtidifolia, we 
have noticed several plants on rockwork in good 
condition. Of all the species, however, the most 
stately is the azure blue C. pyramidalis and its 
white and lilac varieties, which are just now 
flowering freely in 
the open borders; 
grown in a pot and 
treated as asub-aqua- 
tic, in a sheltered 
position in the open 
air, C. pyramidalis is 
one of the most effec¬ 
tive of all decorative 
plants, and it is one 
which also makes a 
suitable ornamentfor 
a cottage window, in 
some of which in 
country districts we 
have seen it grown 
with great success. 
ErectgrowingSpeed- 
wells (Veronicas) of 
the V. spicata sec¬ 
tion are now very 
handsome, one of the 
best being V. spicata 
pumila corymbosa, a 
variety which bears 
dense branching pa¬ 
nicles of bright blue 
flowers. The com¬ 
mon white variety is 
also very effective, 
forming as it does 
vigorous masses fully 
2 feet in height. Col- 
chicums are just now 
everywhere very 
lovely, their bright 
rosy-lilao or purple- 
tinted flowers peep¬ 
ing up hero and there 
among stones and 
bare earth. We should 
like to see these 
very pretty autumn 
flowers planted in 
greater abundance in 
ourgardens than they 
now are, for if these 
and autumn Crocuses 
were planted on car¬ 
pets of Bedum glau- 
cum and S. lydium, 
or any other dwarf 
and fresh - looking 
plants, they would 
bestow an amount of 
gaiety on our autumn 
gardens which they 
do not now possess. 
Theoldscarlet Mon¬ 
key-flower (Mimulus 
cardinalis) brightens 
up sheltered corners 
with its orange-scarlet flowers, and the rich 
blue flowers of Anchusa capensis may still be 
gathered, and no prettier addition than this 
could be made to bouquets or button-hole flowers 
at this season. A still more showy species (A. 
italics) deserves notice, being just now one of the 
most beautiful of all blue-flowered plants, and 
its flowers, although larger, cloBely resemble 
those of the prostrate Lithospermum, which is 
itself flowering freely on sunny rockwork. The 
blue and white Canterbury liells are still in 
bloom, as iB also the lilac-purple 8 tat ice 
Limonium. The white Zephyranthes Candida, 
double flowered Potentilla aurantiaca, and 
several varieties of Tradeseantia virginica, are 
still beautiful on warm soils, as is also the 
orange-flowered Asclepias tuberosa, one of the 
most distinct of all the blooming perennials. A 
large-flowered blue Monkshood (Aconitum 
autumnale) is worth notice, flowering as it does 
after most of its congeners are past tbeir best. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 








304 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sept. 8, 1883. 


CROCUSES AND SNOWDROPS. 

We always think of these charming spring 
flowers together, for they are the earliest and 
hardiest of all our garden bulbs, and they never 
look so well as when growing side by side. They 
will thrive in almost any soil or situation, only 
let them be planted early and left undisturbed. 
Large clumps display the beauty of the flowers 
more effectively than thin lines, and the colours 
look belter distinct than mixed. There is no 
end to the tasteful arrangements that can be 
made by alternate patches of diflerent colours. 
Two inches should be left between the bulbs to 
allow room for growing. I once saw Crocuses 
and Snowdrops looking their very best planted 
in strong clumps 4 feet or 5 feet across masses of 
purple, yellow, and white. It was an old estab¬ 
lished garden, and the bulbs had been left un¬ 
disturbed for years. This is the only way to 
grow them to perfection. It is well known that 
plants are continually made the objects of over¬ 
much attention, and that they are often killed 
by kindness. It has often been noticed that both 
Crocuses and Snowdrops produce far finer flowers 
when in a wild state than in gardens, besides in¬ 
creasing twice as fast; and this is just beause 
they are left alone. There is nothing they so 
much dislike as being constantly dragged up by 
the roots every year to make way for bedding 
plants. Those who adopt this plan need not be 
surprised that their Crocuses and Snowdrops do 
not flower well. 

Planting. —Another cause of failure is late 
planting. I cannot prevail upon my friends to 
put their bulbs into the ground early enough. 
It is well to remember that bulb planting 
begins at the same time as partridge shooting, 
on September 1, and that by the end of the first 
week in that month it should be finished. No¬ 
thing weakens the bulb so much as being kept 
out of the ground. A very picturesque way of 
growing Crocuses and Snowdrops where it can 
be adopted is to plant them on a turf bank, for 
the bright little blossoms appear to the best 
possible advantage when seen springing out of 
the Grass as if wild. If planted carefully they 
need not be bought more than once, for with 
judicious treatment they will go on for ever, in¬ 
creasing and spreading every year. The Snow¬ 
drop and the purple and white Crocus are both 
found wild in some parts of England, as well as 
all over the south of Europe, but the yellow 
Crocus is from the East. I remember a hill 
purple with wild Crocuses at Nottingham. Here 
and there a white one would be found, and 
these we considered the most beautiful, probably 
on account of their rarity. We were not allowed 
to dig them up for fear of disturbing the soil, 
but we sometimes succeeded in pulling one up 
by the roots by accident. The Saffron Crocus is 
also a native of Englard, and the town of 
Baffron-Walden, in Ess< x, was named from the 
little lilac autumn Crocus which was 
cultivated there. It is said that 4323 flowers 
were required to yield one pound of saffron. 
I once had the Saffron Crocus in my 
garden and thought it hardly worth growing, as 
the flowers came ont without leaves, and the 
stalk falls fiat on the ground soon after the bud 
opens. It looks pretty, however, arranged 
in water with the white Japanese Anemone, 
which is in blossom at the same time (October). 
The oolour is a very delicate lilac, unlike that of 
any other flower. 

Snowdrops. —In Suffolk and Worcestershire 
whole woods and orchards are carpeted with 
Snowdrops; they spread in grassy meadows far 
more rapidly than in gardens, and attain a larger 
size when growing in large masses. Nevertheless, 
it is believed that the Snowdrop is not indi¬ 
genous to this country, but has been naturalised 
in gardens. The single Snowdrop has a great 
tendency to become double in cultivation, which 
is a pity, as the single forms are certainly the 
most graceful. The single Daffodil in the same 
way would generally become double in my 
garden sometimes the next year after being dug 
up wild from the fields. 

Varieties of Crocus.— The yellow Crocus 
is of a deep pure orange colour, the brilliancy 
of which we were hardly aware of till we had 
it in our hands and looked closely into it. But 
there is a beautiful primrose-coloured Crocus 
(Crocus sulphureus), which is one of the most 
striking of all. Ot white Crocuses Mont Blanc 
! s one of the largest and ^The>Crocus is 


rich in purples, from the deepest violet to the 
fairest lilac, and the white with a violet stripe is 
exquisite. There is great amusement in raising 
Crocuses from seed sown in pots in spring; they 
come up like Grass, and are not very long be¬ 
fore they are old enough to plant out. It is 
three years, however, before they flower. No 
plants are more suitable for growing in pots in a 
sitting-room than Crocuses and Snowdrops. I once 
saw a large pot containing a dozen deep purple 
Crocuses in full bloom, surrounded by a ring of 
Snowdrops, their pure white bells contrast¬ 
ing beautifully with the dark purple Crocuses 
which they almost touched. One would like to 
make a regular pet of the Crocus, and grow all 
the choice varieties in pots in the house. In this 
way a fascinating and extensive collection could 
be made. Those who have only seen Snowdrops 
in bunches in water, or arranged with Crocuses 
in Moss, have no idea of their capabilities for 
table decoration. Grouped with greenhouse 
flowers, they have quite a choice and uncommon 
expression, and resemble white Fuchsias hanging 
over the edge of the glass. I have seen most 
bridal-looking combinations consisting of Snow¬ 
drops and white Azaleas alternately, with white 
Crocuses and white Camellias placed all round 
the dinner table in small red glasses. Thus dis¬ 
posed on the white cloth by candle-light, the 
flowers looked as if they had all come out of the 
conservatory together, and our modest little 
favourites were fully able to compete with more 
ambitious, though not more beautiful, rivals. 

G. L. 


FLOWERS FOR NEXT SPRING. 

Saponaria calabrica. —This makes a charm¬ 
ing bed when widely edged with Silene pendula 
compacts alba. We sow the seed about the 
second week in August in lines in the kitchen 
garden. In dry seasons we are careful to give 
it water when it requires it, for after being 
sown it is important that there should be no loss 
of time in getting it to grow. About the third 
week in October the summer bedders are taken 
up, and the beds are then prepared for the 
reception of the spring stock. The surface is 
made quite fine by means of a rake, and a dry 
day is selected for the planting. The young 
plants require to be lifted out of the seed bed 
with as many roots as possible, and at once 
transplanted to their winter quarters, where they 
are placed four inches apart each way. As we 
use this Soapwort in large beds, we have an 
edging 2 feet wide of the white Silene, a combina¬ 
tion which, after the middle of April, is very 
striking. It is bright and cheerful without beiDg 
gaudy, as both plants present a distinct mass of 
colour. The Silene is sown at the same time as 
the Saponaria, and treated in the same way; a 
few plants are left standing in the seed bed to 
make good any losses that may occur during the 
winter. 

The pink Silene pendula compacta we 
sow at the same time as the white kind, and 
treat it in the same way. This and the white 
variety may be used with good effect in various 
ways ; in a round bed the two colours look well 
in alternate rings, or the centre may be filled 
with the pink, variety, and the white used as an 
edging round it. Where variety is an object, 
either colour may be employed as an edging to 
beds of Pansies or Violas. I saw a very pretty 
bed last spring that had in the centre a mass of 
yellow Pansies, then a broad band of the pink 
Silene, and then an outer band of the white 
variety. 

Pansy Magpie. —This Pansy is particularly 
valuable for early flowering, and there is a 
quaintness about its colouring which is rather 
remarkable. We plant it in contrast with white 
or yellow Pansies, and the effect is excellent. 
I find that the simplest way of raising a stock is 
to bring a number of old plants to the reserve 
garden when taken up in the end of May; by 
planting them in good soil in a somewhat shady 
place, and cutting off all flowers and loose growth, 
they soon break out into young growth. Early in 
August some fine sandy soil is plaoed round the 
stems as a kind of earthing, and in a few weeks 
they strike out young roots into the new soil. 
When wanted for transplanting in October we 
simply dig up the old plants and pull them to 
pieces, almost every piece making a plant. We 
manage a good many of our Violas in the same 
way. At the same time I certainly must say I 
like plants raised from cuttings best. 


Violas. —These commence to flower with us 
early in April, and we use them largely. The 
variety named Waverly is ottr standard plant. It 
is agood grower.and produces large, well-formed 
flowers in abundance. Holyrood is much darker 
in colour, and therefore valuable for variety. 
Vestal is our favourite white kind, and for ) ellow 
we use Cliveden Yellow Pansy. For bedding pur¬ 
poses I consider there is no other yellow Viola or 
Pansy toequal it; it is the earliest to flower, and 
continues to produce its blossoms in large num¬ 
bers for a long time. Moor's Gold Prince is a 
useful early-flowering variety ; its blossoms are 
large and of good substance. 

Golden Thyme. —This makes a nice bit of 
quiet colouring if planted in the first place 
thickly. It is particularly pleasing as an edging 
to beds of Forget-me-nots, dark-flowered Violas, 
and Polyanthuses. To get strong plants suitable 
for planting in the autumn, cuttings should be 
put in early in the summer, and grown on in the 
open ground. 

Aubeietias. —There is no plant we use more 
valuable for spring beddiDg than the Aubrietia; 
it only requires planting in fairly large masses 
to make it effective. We generally plant it in 
the centres of large round beds in a circle 6 feet 
over, and put a broad band of red or white 
Daisies round it. So arranged with the centre 
of the bed somewhat raised it makes a grand 
display. I only use two varieties, A. deltoidea 
and A. Campbelli. The first, the earliest to 
flower, has light mauve-coloured blossoms. It 
is a strong grower and has a rather loose habit. 
A. Campbelli is quite distinct from it; it has a 
much more compact habit, and the colour of the 
flowers is considerably darker than those of A. 
deltoidea, and it is a fortnight later in coming 
ini o bloom. To be effective it must be planted 
sufficiently thick to cover every inch of the soil, 
as it does not grow enough during the winter to 
cover much space. We frequently have A. 
deltoidea quite bright and gay with flowers 
early in the month of February. Aubrietias 
are not the easiest plants we have to propa¬ 
gate by means of cuttings, but we increase 
our stock in a very simple manner. Some time 
in the mouth of October I take up a dozen or 
two of old plants and pull them to pieces, taking 
care that every piece has a root; the pieces are 
then planted out 1 foot apart each way in the 
reserve border, and there they remain for one 
year. At the end of that time, with no further 
trouble than to keep them free from weeds, they 
make very large plants 1 foot across, which, 
when taken to the flower beds, soon fill up a 
large space. 

Daisies. —I do not know what may be the 
experience of others, but I find that Daisies are 
as difficult as any to manage for spring garden¬ 
ing, and I think this is easily explained ; they do 
not like to be so frequently moved about as this 
style of gardening necessitates. I find they will 
bear to be moved once a year, and will rejoice 
in the change if it is done at the proper time, 
but they do not like transplanting at the end of 
May after being exhausted by a flowering season. 
However, in spring gardening the second move 
cannot be avoided, and the only way to keep 
them alive during the early summer months is 
to treat them kindly. As soon as they are taken 
from the flower beds plant them in a shady place, 
and keep them well supplied with water in dry 
weather. If they can be kept alive until the 
month of August, they will be safe. About the 
middle of that month they should be taken up 
and divided and replanted again ; every piece 
that has a root will make a plant, and be in 
good condition for bedding out in October. 

C. C. 


HARDY FLOWERS IN SMALL GARDENS. 

I happen to be located in a neighbourhood 
where there are many small and moderate-sized 
gardens, the owners of which cannot afford the 
luxury of a greenhouse. During the last twelve 
months I have been paying considerable atten¬ 
tion to these gardens, taking particular notice 
of the flowers and plants used, and the various 
methods of culture, and there is certainly a very- 
wide margin left for improvement. Some of 
the best kept gardens are now all aglow with 
bedding plants, purchased at so much a dozen, 
and planted in masses, lines, or panels. The 
bedding plants were put out this year about 
the end of May; saidom, indeed, can they be 


Sept. 8, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


305 


put out sooner. It would now be time to cut 
the be dp up again to supply cuttings, but as 
the owners have no houses in which to winter 
their plants, it is not necessary that the flower 
beds should be disturbed. The frost will make 
sad work amongst them in a few week--, and 
next season the same process of purchasing by 
the dozen must bo gone over again. Where 
bedding plants reign supreme, there are few 
spring flowers, and no summer-flowering herba¬ 
ceous plants. Florists’ flowers, such as the 
Auricula, Pink, Carnation, Tulip, Ranunculus, 
icc , are unknown. There is not a tithe of the 
enjoyment obtained from such gardens as 
there might be. Someone may be inclined to 
say, “ It is all very easy to find fault with 
this system of management, or that method of 
planting, but if you had a garden of the same 
form and size, what would you do 1 ” This is 
certainly a fair question, and one that ought 
to have an answer. 

In the first place, I would plant spring flowers. 
I have in my mind’s eye now five or six gardens 
where the owners vie with each other to make 
the best display of “ bedding,'’ and it is almost 
past belief that in none of these gardens have I 
noticed a single Snowdrop. Croons, or Anemone, 
or any other of the beautiful spring flowers that 
might be planted. Bare borders are the rule in 
March, April, and May. If a few spring flowers 
are planted in such gardens they seldom do aDy 
good, as they are removed annually to make 
room for the bedding plants ; or if they are 
allowed to remain, the spade or the trowel dug 
into the centre of the clumps of bulbs or fibrous- 
rooted plaDts makes sad work of them. Another 
thing I have seen happen that shows the 
mischief wrought by bedding plants in the 
wrong place. A strong-growing zonal has been 
planted over a clump of some choice plants, 
and when the Pelargonium has been wrenched 
out by the roots to be conveyed to its usual 
destination, viz., the rubbish heap, the choice 
plants, which may be at rest but has been 
entangled in the roots, goes with it. 

I do not condemn bedding plants at all. 
There are few gardens in which they may not 
with advantage find a place ; but the mind that 
can be satisfied with bedding plants alone, is one 
that has not realised the beauty and variety of 
nature as it is displayed in the exquisite beauty 
of leaf, bad, and flower. However small a garden 
may be, there ought to be room in it for sprmg 
flowers to be planted so that they may not 1 e 
materially injured. Snowdrops and Crocuses 
ought to be in every garden, and the bulbs 
should be left alone in the same place for years. 

I had masses of Crocus and Snowdrop that 
were undisturbed for nineteen years, and such 
masses of flower they produced and will pro¬ 
duce if they have been left alone. Scillas, 
which are not known in many small country 
gardens, should be planted and left undisturbed. 
Anemone blanda is also most exquisite, far su¬ 
perior in my belief to A. apennina ; but this 
last, with the white form, are also very desirable. 
A. fulgens and the double form of A. nemo- 
rosa added to the above, will make a beautiful 
early spring garden themselves, and they are all 
so cheap that anyone can purchase them. There 
is a tendency to plant the above in lines; this I 
never do, nor recommend. If the border is a 
large one, I plant clumps 18 inches or 2 feet 
across ; in small borders 9 inches to a foot across 
is sufficient. The Anemones require removing 
more frequently, as they spread so much, but if 
there is plenty of space for them, the further 
they spread so much the better is it, as you 
cannot have too much of a good thing. A. 
apennina and A. nemorosa fl -pi like to run 
round a half buried stone or two, or a piece or 
two of clinkers, or burrs from the brickfields. 
Besides the above, I ought to mention one of the 
most beautiful of all the early Anemones, viz., 
A Robinsoniana ; it is of the most delicate pale 
blue tint, and should be planted on a choice 
'pot. 

Primroses, too—who would be without some of 
file choicer varieties ? They add a charm to the 
garden such as no other flowers can, and they 
we to easily obtained. The best way is to get a 
acket of seeds of the choicest strain; they can 
te purchased for a shilling or eighteenpence. 

the seeds in A pril, and take care to give them 
the usual attention of pricking out the young 
seedlings and planting them out until they have 
o*wn to their full size. 

Utter in the season the borders are gay with 

Digitized by (jOGglC 


Narcissi; although some of them come in with 
the Primroses, the later ones continue until May. 
But I do not intend to give a list of names 
merely, as there are hundreds of beautiful early 
summer and spring flowers that may be grown 
in small gardens, and those who once take to 
growing the commoner species and varieties will 
soon increase their stock, and very probably the 
bedding plants will be elbowed out of the garden 
altogether. There is no need for this, as a few 
choice tender plants may well be planted between 
the clumps of bulbs or the tuberous roots of the 
Anemones. A stout peg ought to be driven into 
the centre of each clump, one that cannot be 
moved by hoe or rake, and the bedding plants 
should be placed at a safe distance from the 
peg, to prevent the plants being torn up by the 
roots. Pansies, Phloxes, Pentstemons, and other 
plants of this kind, will make the garden gay for 
a long period without the aid of bedding plants 
at all. J. D. E. 

FRUIT. 

APPLE TREES AND RED SPIDER. 

While making an examination lately of some 
orchards and gardens I had my attention called 
to the prevalence of red spider on the Apple trees 
growing in a very old garden, while in a large 
orchard close by the trees were almost free from 
that pest, and at the same time nearly destitute 
of fruit, while almost every tree in the old garden 
was loaded, though evidently they had suffered 
from spider. Three-fourths consisted of a kind 
much resembling Stirling Castle (a variety gain¬ 
ing favour every year) named Seaton House (pro¬ 
bably a local name), which is said to bear heavy 
crops every year, whether there are Apples else¬ 
where or not. The late gardener evidently had 
taken the trees in hand the few years they were 
under his charge, and I have no doubt from the 
results of his labours he would have got them into 
perfect health, but his death put an end to the 
important work he was so successfully carrying 
out. This veteran cultivator did his work skil¬ 
fully. He cleared all the surface soil from the 
roots, gave them a good soaking of manure water, 
placed a good coatiDg of fresh soil mixed with 
strong manure over the roots, and over this spread 
the natural soil. The system is old enough, but 
little good often results from its adoption, because 
of the imperfect way in which it is carried out. 
The manure is frequently placed round the collars 
of the trees instead of at the tips of the roots, 
grown far out into the surrounding soil, where 
they have consumed all the food within their 
reach and are matted together in a subsoil 
almost inert. When these roots get abundance 
of food, solid and liquid, applied to them, the 
effect on the foliage and fruit is obvious. The 
large, dark green leaves and large, well-swelled 
highly-coloured fruit afford evidence of a change 
for the better. For example, there is a Stirling 
Castle in the garden referred to that was ope¬ 
rated on in the way described. The trunk is 
old and gnarled, and has been cankered severely 
at some time, but the foliage is large, dark, and 
glossy, and the fruit is hanging in clusters all 
over the branches. It averages from 12 inches 
to 13 inches in circumference, and is of a fine 
colour, considering the northern district in which 
it is growing. An application of manure to the 
trees in this garden, and an orchard of seven 
acres or eight acres in extent, might be con¬ 
sidered by some to be a waste of labour and 
means ; but if one is to realise results even less 
than those just recorded, it would, in my opinion, 
be work which would well repay itself, and 
worthy of the consideration of proprietors of 
orchards in many of the fruit-growing districts 
in England where the trees are decaying from 
starvation—the climate good, but the roots 
neglected. M. T. 


Simple Grape culture.— Mr. Groom, in 
his article on the above subject says, “ In the 
most successful cases the roots have had free 
run.” A case has come under my observation in 
accordance with his statement. About ten 
years ago a gentleman decided to have a Vine 
trained to the roof of his greenhouse. The old 
gardener said that it would never answer, as 
there was no room to make a prepared border, 
there being only a small strip of border between 
the greenhouse and the garden walk. The 
gentleman would have his way, and a Black 
Hamburgh Vine was planted. Three years ago 


it covered the whole roof, and it has every year 
since its commencement to bear borne a splendid 
crop of Grapes, whilst in the vinery, a few yards 
distant on the same aspect, which has a prepared 
border, the bunches are never half the size, and 
every year shank. The subsoil is a stiff clay. 
I should have mentioned that at a distance of 
12 feet from the greenhouse is a row of Asparagus 
beds.—L. 0. K. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

10227. — Geranium leaves turning 

yellow.—This may arise from either excess or 
deficiency of water, or from the plants becoming 
pot-bound. Do not water until the surface soil 
becomes nearly dry. On the other hand, if the 
plants have been allowed to remain duct dry a 
day or two, of course the foliage will suffer. If 
the plants are pot-bound, they should be repotted 
and placed in the open air. It is a good plan to 
keep a reserve stock plunged in ashes out-of- 
doors during the summer, and bring them into 
the conservatory from time to time, to take the 
places of those showing signs of exhaustion. Do 
rot use manure water, unless very weak. A 
pinch or two of Clay’s fertiliser to a 5-inch pot 
mixed with the soil when repotting would be 
better.—J. K., Hornsey. 

10252. — OarnationB and Plooteee — 

Briefly, the difference between these is that the 
Carnation has its colours distributed in stripes of 
various degrees of width, according to the variety, 
radiating from the centre to the edge of the 
flower; and in the Picotee the colour is disposed 
round the edges of the petals only, forming a 
series of curves instead of straight lines, as in the 
case of the Carnation. In the matter of foliage, 
that of the Carnation is rather stronger and larger 
than that of the Picotee.—J. K., Hornsey . 

10258.—Thinning Carnations —The growths on 
old Carnation plants may be thinned if very crowded, but 
it would have been preferable to layer the shoots 
and so-obtain fresh stock. It is not too late to do so now. 
J. K., Hornsey. 


Transplanting Strawberries.—I havo recently 
taken to a garden in which there is a large bed of Straw¬ 
berries which have all become matted together. What Is 
the earliest date I may with safety begin to remove them ? 
I want to plant them out on a much larger piece of 
ground, ana as I have not much time for gardening, I 
am anxious to commence as soon as 1 may Bafely do so; 
also what is the earliest date at which Raspberries may 
be safely removed ?—Treasurer. [The plants in question 
may be transplanted at any time between now and No¬ 
vember, but in the case qf old plants it would be better to 
lay them in in a sheltered place until they make fresh roots 
before setting them out in their permanent positions. 
Take them up as soon as possible, and lay them in, 
keeping them sprinkled if the weather is hot and dry, 
planting them as soon as they ammence to make fresh 
foliage Raspberries may be removed as soon as the 
leaf falls.] 

Manuring Violets.— Clmrr.— Apply the Clay’s 
manure at once, giving enough to cover the ground,and a 
similar dressing of soot in about a fortnight's time. As 
the season is so far advanced,this will be enough to impart 
the necessary substauce to the crowns. 

Book on market gardening.— Mongieur.— The 
best book on this Subject is “The lzondon Market 
Gardens," by C. W. Shaw. Published at 37, South¬ 
ampton Street, Covent Garden, price 2s. 6d., post free 
2s. 9d. 

Plants for cool greenhouse—A Beginner.— 
Read the series of articles on the subject now being 
printed in Gardening. 

Alpine Strawberries.— S. Jones.— Mrs. Tippings, 
Sansaw, Shrewsbury. 

Reader.— The larger the pipes the more heat you will 
get, but, of course, you would get more heat from two 

3-inch pipes than from one 4-inch pipe.- J. Mitchell.— 

The Pear tree sing.- S. A. T.—Ye s. There are many 

articles in the back numbers of Gardening on Lily 
culture. 

E H. Maddack.— Not at all uncommon in the case of 
the Fuchsia. H. H— Hoya caruota is strictly speak¬ 
ing a Btovo plant, but we have known it to succeed well 
on a wall in a moderately-warm conservatory.- Corn¬ 

wall— The Pear tree saw-fly (Eriscampa adumbrnta). 

Duncan H.— We should think any northern nursery¬ 
man would supply you. Try M essrs. Backhouse <fc Sons, 
York. 

Names of plants.— E. G — Eryngium alpinum.- 

W. S. G .—Wo cannot name Peas- JHscator Salvia 

patens.- J. &. —Hispidium angulare prolift-rum. We 

do not name Fuchsias.— J . A—Ranunculus aconlti- 

follus fl.-pl.- Amherst Lodge — flieracium aursntiacum. 

- A. Boyce.— Anemone japonica alba; (Enothera 

Fraseri.- E. Byne..— Francoa sonchifolia- J. Bux¬ 
ton —Lasiandra macrantha.- It. IF. Green.— 1, Borago 

officinalis ; 2, Lyrimnchia vulgaris ; 3, Splirea salkifolifu 

- J. H. Dtvizes.— Achillea Ptnrmica.- Halmond 

Frome.—l, Agathcoa coolestis ; 4, Pelargonium denticula- 

tum. Send others again.- J. II. A.—l, Aconitum Na- 

pellus; 2, Alyisum maritimum ; 3, Hieraclura aurantia- 


306 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sept. 8, 1883, 


com ; 4, Gladiolus variety.- Forester.— l, Jasmlnum 

revolutum; 2, Guelder Rose (Vi burn am Opulus); 3, 

Deadly Nightshade (Solanum Dulcamara).- Newtown. 

-Glaux maritima(pink); Helianthus rigtdus (yellow). 

- Machen. — Cannot name.- M. Wereham. — l, 

Mathiola bi morals; 2, Chrysanthemum coronarium ; 8, 

Semi-double variety of 2.- S.Glenam. 1, Species of Oro- 

banche; 2, RhusG'otinus.- W. Wilson.—A., Pachyphy- 

ton bracteo8um ; B., species of Stapelia.- H. B. B. — 

Lytbrum Salicaria.- Flax Bourton.— Dimorphotheca 

pluvialis; Tritonia aurea; Achillea Millefolium roBea; 

Agrostemma coronaria alba.- J. Lingley.— Common 

Barberry (Herberts vulgaris), full information respect¬ 
ing the disease of which is given in current week's issue 

of Farm and Home. - Dunkeld.— 1, Senecio jacobtea ; 

2, Send in flower ; 3, Species of Solidago ; 4, Luzula syl- 
valica.— G. G — Bryony (Bryonia dioica) — Kilkenny.— 

Sedum daayphyllum.-C. M. Metcalf.— Send again 

please.- R. S. R.—Polygonum cuspidatum.— -J. Ward. 

-Alonsoa incisa.-C. C. K— Jasminum azoricum- 

Candeur — Galega ofllcinalis alba(White Goat’s Rue.)- 

R. M. G.—l, Betberis Darwini ; 2, B. empetrifolia; 3, 

Cotoneaster Simonsi.- D. J. Carter.— We do not name 

varieties of Carnations or other florists’ flowers. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents—AW communica * 
tionsfor insertion should be dearly and concisely written 
on one side q f the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
and address of the sender is required, in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Anstcers to Queries 
should olwai/s bear the number and title of the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of 
Garden I no going to press a considerable time before the 
day qf publication, it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they arc received. Queries not 
atmeered should be sent to us again. 

Naming 1 plants.-- Four plants, fruits, or flowers only 
can be named at one time , and this only ichen good 
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name 
varieties qfflorists' flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
specialist tcho has the meanscf comparison at hand. Any 
communication respecting plants or dowers sent to name 
bhould always accompany the parcel. 

10254 — Liquid manure.—I atn in p^seaslon of a 
quantity of parings from horses' hoof*, aud dust out of lhe 
steam boiler flues. Will you inform me if the same are 
good as manure for Roses, and if so, in what quantities 
should it be used along with night-soil and hen manure ? 
My garden land is composed of nothing butsand (as is all 
the land in this neighbourhood), in fact we are in the 
midst of sand hills, and about a mile from the sea. I can 
obtain any amount of black loam soil. Will someone 
give me general information respecting the growth of our 
national flower? I have obtained a spirit puncheon, 
which will contain about 100 gallons, and have taken the 
head out and perforated it with inch holes, and fixed it 
en supports some 8 inches from the permanent bottom, 
and between the two have introduced a large-sized 
tap. I intend using it ai a Mould manure storo cask. 
What would be the best materials to use to make the 
most suitable liquid?—R. J. C. 

10255.—Ueea of poultry manure. —I have observed 
queries regarding the use of poultry manure, but no 
answers. Will someone experienced in its use say (1st) 
how long it should lie before using ? (2nd). As a liquid 
manure, or mixed with earth for top-dressing? Would 
it be injurious to use it immediately on its being taken 
from the fowl-house? (3rd). I Intend relaying a Vine 
border this season ; would it be a beneficial addition to 
the compost? If so, in what proportion? Any other in¬ 
formation regarding this very powerful, but I think often 
wrongly applied manure, would, I am sure, be of service 
to many readers.— Monsieur. 

10256.—Seedling Begonias.—I would be thankful 
for a little information respecting seedling Begonias. 
Some of the plants that produced Bemi-double flowers on 
their tint flowering, produced afterwards single flowers, 
and I have semi-double and slngle.llowers on the same plant. 
Is this UBual.ormay I expect as they get older and stronger 
that the semi-double flowers will be more constant? 
Also, if I am able to procure seed from the Bingle flowers 
on these plants, would they be more likely to produce 
double or semi-double seedlings than seedlings obtained 
from decidedly single flowers?—W. H. B. 

10257 — Own-root Roses—In Gardening I fre¬ 
quently see articles on the advantages of Roses 
on their own roots. Can anyone account for the fol¬ 
lowing circumstance? I had a Tea Rose—Safrano— 
budded on a Brier, from it I budded several more, and 
also struck some cuttings ; all have grown most luxu¬ 
riantly, with very fine, healthy foliage ; the budded ones 
flowered most profusely, but were all killed by the 
severe frost of 1881; the cuttings did not suffer, and are 
still growing, but have never flowered. What should be 
done with them ?—A. G. 

10258.—Disease in leaves of plants.—Can any¬ 
one inform me of tho cause of a disease in the leaves of 
Geraniums nn<l other plants, and the remedy for it? It 
begins with semi-transparent spots, then a dark speck 
appears in these, and after a time the leaf becomes 
broken up. and the growth of the plant checked. On 
examining ono of these specks through a powerful micro¬ 
scope, a friend of mine informed me that he discovered 
both a microscopic grub and a sort of fungus. How did 
these come there and how are they to be prevented.— 
Candeur. 

10250.— Carnations in windows.—I have a Sou¬ 
venir de la Malnmison It is strong and healthy, but 
there are no signs of blossom. It is in a pot, and has 
been kept in the garden since June, but during the 
winter months it was kept in a window. I had it last 
year, when it flowered well, and made two new shoots, 
and it has made two new shoots this year also. Three 
weeks since it was removed to another pot—was this 
wrong ? Does it require*much water ? jAny information 
gladly received.—R; M. O. 


10260.—Wild fruit trees.—A correspondent who has 
recently taken up land In County Sully, U.S., writes me 
that he has an abundance of wild fruit trees that never 
bear fruit; he asks advice as to their mode of treatment. 
Can any reader favour me with information on the sub¬ 
ject ? The trees are as follows: Wild Currants, Cherry 
trees, Gooseberry bush js, Grape Vines. Any information 
on the subject will be very acceptable.— Garhart. 

10261.—Climbing: Bose not blooming.—I wish 
to know why a climbing Rose (Celine Forrestier) after 
being planted two springs, has not flowered. It is against 
a wall looking north, with a good deal of sun. This 
summer it was very full of leaf, but In July the leaves 
were covered with yellow spots, and soon after they all 
fell off, but now it is iu full leaf again, but there have 
been no Rosea. It is planted In very good soil, and has 
grown about 8 feet high.—E. L. F. 

10262.—White worms in vegetablee.—Can any¬ 
one suggest a remedy for little white worms that have 
this year freely attacked my Celery, Parsley, Carrots, 
Vegetable Marrows, Cauliflowers, <fcc. ? The plauts all 
seem to grow well at first, but in a few days are cut 
down and wither. I have used soot, lime, salt, soap-suds, 
salt and water, but nothing seems to stop the ravages of 
the insects. I may add that last year all my garden was 
trenched fully 2 feet deep. —T. HUGHES. 

10263 — Improving: a gfarden.—I am living in a 
new house ana have a large garden. The builders of the 
house threw the soil out of the foundations on the gar¬ 
den, so that such flowers as I have now struggle on or die 
In a wretched, barren, clay soil. I am thinking of trying 
to improve this soil by digging in cocoa nut fibre refuse, 
road scrapings and rotten dung. Can I do anything 
better than this ? What seeds sown now will make a 
good show in tho spring ? — M. M. 

10234. —Asters dying off.—I should be glad if any¬ 
one could inform me of the likely reason for healthy 
Aster roots dying off. The root is not eaten away, but 
looks dry and shrivelled. They have been watered several 
times with liquid stable manure mixed with an equal 
proportion of water. Is tills likely to have been too 
strong for them ? Some of the plants are quite vigorous 
under similar treatment.—E. S. W. 

10265.—Neglected Peach trees.-What can be 
done for wall Peach trees which have been badly- 
pruned for two years? All the buds and leaves have 
dropped off last year's wood, and much the same thing 
is taking place with this year's growth, so that there are 
long bare branches with a few leaves at the point. 
Should they be cut back to the stem? What would be 
the right time to do so?—B ruce. 

10266.—Moving Clematis.—Can anyone say if it is 
possible to sucessfully move weU-established plants of Cle¬ 
matis Jackmanl. Two roots occupying one bed, where 
they have been trained over wire, have grown so large 
that they smother each other, and I am desirous of 
moving them where they can have a wall to climb on. I 
have been told that to move large roots is to kill them. 
E. A. W. 

10267.—Passion Flower not fruiting.-I have a 
fine Passion Flower, a vigorous seedling, fill! of flowers ; 
but it produces no fruit, although every flower shows a 
rudimentary fruit and a lot of pollen. I have tried to 
feitllise the flowers with a camel-hair pencil, but as the 
flowers still continue to fall off, I suppose I have not 
done it properly. How should it bo done ?— Hunts. 

10268.—Begonia cuttings.—Will someone kindly 
Inform me what is the best way of rooting Begonia 
cuttings ? I have put mine ia a hotbed, but they have 
not done well, and have for the most part damped elf. 
I give air night and day. I shall be much obliged if 
Bomeone will give me full directions as to their manage¬ 
ment.— H. M. W., Roscrea. 

10260.—Cacti not blooming.—I have six Cacti 
which formerly bloomed beautifully, but for two seasons 
have not bloomed at all. I put a small quantity of boil¬ 
ing water to the roots once a fortnight for three months, 
beginning in January, to start the blooms, but without 
success. Any Information as to treatment will be 
gladly received.—J. G. R. 

10270.—Lilies for sandy soil.—Wishing to have a bed 
of Lilies in my garden, I should be glad to know the names 
of those kinds that would grow best in a light sandy soil, 
and the bulbs of which I could leave iu the ground all 
the winter. Would it be at all detrimental to these bulbs 
to grow some sort of a carpet plant, such as a 
“ Creeping Jenny,” over the roots ?—M. G. 

10271.—Manure for garden —I have just dug up 
the garden attached to my house for the first time; the 
Boil Is a hard clayey loam, becoming on settlement quite 
hard on the surface. What can I do to make it fit for 
growing flowere? Is there any kind of artificial manure 
that I can use instead of stable manure ? I ought to say 
the subsoil Is gravel.—A lpha* 

10272.—Plum trees on walls.—I have some Plum 
trees in a very wild state, growing quite out from the 
walls. Might they be pruned on tne short spur system 
till they are in good order again, and when should they 
be cut back ? The foliage has been very fuH this year, but 
there were no blossoms.—B ruce. 

10273.— Cricket ground.—At what time of tho year 
should new turf be laid on a cricket ground, autumn or 
spring ? Is it advisable to put manure of any sort on n 
cricket ground during the winter, the turf of which Is of 
rather an inferior description ; If so, what sort of manure 
is best ?— Cricket Ground. 

10274.—Pampas Grass and Coral trees. —Would 
some reader kindly teU me the proper time to cut the 
Pampas Grass, and the be»t way to preserve it for church 
decoration? Also if plants of Erythrina Crista-galli or 
Coral tree raised from seed sown in spring should be cut 
down this year?—J ewel. 

10275.—Preparing garden land. — Could any 
reader tell me the best way to prepare ground on a small 
garden for tho growth of ordinary garden plants aud 
Roses ? The ground in question has not been turned or 
manured in any way for a considerable time, and the toll 
looks weedy and poor.—N ovice. 



10276.—New Zealand for gardeners.—Would any 
reader kindly tell me which is the best colony of Australia 
or New Zealand in which an (under gardener, eighteen 
years of age, would be likely to succeed ; also rates 
of wages, <fcc. ? Any information on the subject will 
oblige.— Yorkshire. 

10277.—Forcing Rhubarb —What is the best and 
most economical system adopted by market gardeners 
for forcing Rhubarb in large quantities to be ready from 
the middle of December onwards during spring?— 
Monsieur 


10279.—Sulphate of ammonia—I am anxious to 
know where I can procure sulphate of ammonia of pure 
quality ; also to have directions for using it for Chrysan¬ 
themums. I have tried in vain to procure it in Edin¬ 
burgh.—W. 8. 

10280.—Flowers to stand the winter.—Win 
some reader kindly name a few nice flowering plants that 
will, if planted now in the open garden, flourish through 
the winter? Will Hollyhocks? I wont them for a new 
garden.— Al PH A. 

10281.—Fuchsia splendens.—How ought Fuchsia 
splendens to be treated ? I have had some plants for over 
two years which have never bloomed; they throw up 
many shoots like suckers from the roots ; ought they to 
be cut off ?—L. N. W. 

10282.—Potting Fuchsias.—Ought Fuchsias to be 
potted hard ? Will someone kindly give exactly the com¬ 
post in which they do best, and name twelve of the best 
and newest varieties for conservatory decoration?— 
H. M. W., Roscrea. 

10283.—Sawdust for plants.—I have a lot of saw¬ 
dust at nPy disposal; will someone kindly tell me If I can 
use it for plunging pot plants in during winter to keep 
out the frost ? The plants are mostly Pansies.—D ioby 
Grand. 

10284. — Mushrooms in greenhouses. — Will 
someone kindly Inform me if Mushrooms can be grown 
in a greenhouse without fermenting manure, and if so, 
how t—R osy Gem. 

10285.—Vegetable Marrows rotting.—Would 
some of your kind readers tell me the reason of my Vege¬ 
table Marrows damping or rotting at the point when 
about the sixe of a Walnut?— Bolton. 

10286. — Wintering Salsafy. — We sowed some 
Salsafy in spring. Ought it to remain in the ground or be 
dug up as wanted ? What is tbe best way of cooking it ? 
Any information will be received with thanks.—S. B. 

10287.—Fruit trees for small garden.—Please 
say the kinds most suitable, and proper time and manner 
of planting, for small garden in north of London. Soil 
rather clayey.— Yeoetist. 

lorn— Flowering plants for a room. — Will 
someone tell me what fioweriug plants are most suitable 
for growing in a rather large, warm, sunny drawing¬ 
room, aud in which gas is seldom used ?—E. L. F. 

10289. —Moss Rosea.—In an old number of Garden¬ 
ing it is recommended that Moss Roses should have the 
old canes cut out each year just like Raspberries. Should 
it be done now or in spring?— Bruce. 

10290 — Dwarf Beet for edgings.—What is the 
liest dwarf (lark or crimson Beet lor the edging of 
borders ? I have found that sorts recommended as dwarf 
grow much too rampant.—J. 31. 8. 

10291.—Keeping Grapes.—What is the best method 
of keeping Grapes after they are cut, and how long 
should they be allowed to haug before being cut from 
the vine ?-J. 8. 


10292.—Preserving Tomatoes—I shall be obliged 
if some one will Inform me what is the best mode of pre¬ 
serving or pickling whole Tomatoes ?—C. L. B. 

10293.—Cement for water-cans.—Will someone 
give the composition of a cement suitable for leaky 
watering pots ?—T. S. C. 

10294. — Azaleas in cold greenhouse. — Will 
Azaleas succeed during winter in a cold greenhouse ?— 
N.D. F. 

10295.—Preserving Sunflowers.— Is there any 
way of preserving Sunflowers so as to keep them in their 
natural form and colour ?—H. A. 


10296.—Florists* flowers.—Can anyone give me a 
full definition of the above term, so constantly used in 
articles on floriculture.—C onstant Reader. 

10297.—Buckwheat.—When is *the proper time to 
sow the above, and what are its uses.-C onstantReader. 


TWENTY-FOUR roots lovely DEVONSHIRE 

J- FERN'S, many varieties, with botanical and English 
utrnes, twelve stamps, free.—Miss WARREN, 17, Alexandria 
Place, Barnstaple. 


QTOCK.S.—East Lothian, Intermediate, true, 

O scarlet and white, for winter flowering in greenhouse 
and early soring open ground ; splendid spikes of large 
double flowers, deliciously scented, strong plants. Is 3d. dor 
free.—OASBON k BON. MiUfield, Peterboro'. 


TTNSOLICITED TESTIMONIAL. Barn- 

Ll staple, July 26,1883 — Gents,— The Stocks yon sent rue 
last March are the most magnificent ever seen here, and are 

the wonder aud admiration of all the passers-by — J O •_ 

To CAS BON A SON. Florists, MiUfleld. Peterboro'. ' 


“HUTCH BULBS.— Cheapest in the trade.—Do 

AJ not purchase till you have seen iny catalogue, post fr^A 
on app licati o n.—HUGHES Market Pla ce. Abintrdon 

lWTJEtS. SINKING! Mrs. SINKINS! • m^T 

•LlL 8 IN KINS!!!—Positively the best white Clove Pink if. 
cultivation; blooms 3 inches across, abundantly product 
from May till October; 6 plants 3s. 3d., 12 plants fa 
cuttings Is. 6d., post free for cash.—W WE ALE. 

Bucks. “ 

H OOPER'S GARDENING GUIDE. — An 

unfailing source of information and delight," N nm v,.- 
lees other readers testify to its being the most useful ent*“r 
, d cheapest work in our language. 2s. 5a.. 

Iu. lid—HOOPER k OO., Caveat Garden aud all bookaeUera I 




GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED. 

• 

Vol. V. 

SEPTEMBER 15, 1883. 

No. 236. 


THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE. 


Bulbs and Tubers. 

ALL the year round a succession o£ bulbs and 
tubers are available for the unheated green¬ 
house, and, of all flowering plants, these are, 
perhaps, the most interesting to grow, as well 
as the most highly decorative. A bulb or tuber 
ought to be a good investment, inasmuch as 
most species increase fast by means of offsets, 
and on this account such plants are invaluable 
to the gardener of limited means, who cannot 
atlord to indulge his taste by the frequent pur¬ 
chase of new and expensive plants. 

Hyacinths 

are, perhaps, the most costly of ordinary spring 
bulbs, because, as it is commonly said, they are 
no good a second year. This is not, strictly 
speaking, the case, for fair spikes of bloom, and 
even double spikes, may be obtained the second 
rear from pot-grown bulbs, though not from 
such as are grown in water. The very best 
varieties may be obtained from 15s. to £1 Is. 
the dozen, the second best at from fis. to 12s.; 
and it is certain that the same sum spent in 
other species of bulbs and tubers would yield a 
tar greater return year by year, but no other 
bulb gives the soft colouring and cheerful spring 
effect of the Hyacinth. It is probable that if a 
tew good Hyacinths were purchased each 
autumn—say for three years in succession—and 
towered in pots by rotation, that a good stock 
might be kept up ; but it would entail pains and 
trouble. A small piece of well-worked sandy 
toil, enriched with cow manure, should be pre¬ 
pared for this purpose. As soon as the flowering 
is OTer, the bulbs should be carefully planted in 
»row from 4 to ti inches apart, duly marked 
with names if so desired, and with a stout label 
at the end of the row with the date distinctly 
and indelibly written upon it. Here the bulbs 
may remain, the development of the foliage 
being duly encouraged until it naturally begins 
to die down, when no further attention will be 
teeded. In the following spring they should be 
carefully looked over to remove any flower stems 
vkich may be thrown up, to strengthen the 
Mbs. A very good top-dressing for Hyacinths 
was recommended some years ago in the Revue 
tivrtkole, which is as follows:—H ounces of 
superphosphate of lime, A ounce of nitrate of 
potash (salts of nitre), A ounce of crystallised 
carbonate of soda, all well pulverised in a 
mortar mixed together. This might be dug 
into the surface of the Hyacinth bed, “ pointed 
in," as it were, with a small mason's trowel, of 
which the sharp point has been rounded off, 
which is a most useful tool in a gardener’s 
bauds. As soon as the foliage dies back, at the 
beginning of July in the second year, take up 
the bulbs, remove all offsets (which may be 
planted in a reserve bed in the case of extra 
good sorts, or in the borders), and replant at 
cnee in fresh ground. It is very important that 
'-his should be done before root growth for the 
bellowing season has begun. In the third year 
lollow the same treatment precisely, and in the 
knrth the bulbs ought to be again in good con- 
iidon for bloom in pots. The supply of bulbs 
purchased in the second and third years mean¬ 
time to be similarly treated, to take their turn 
c rotation. There is no reason why such a plan 
hould not answer, though it entails trouble: 
| bat as questions are so frequently asked as to 
be management of these useful bulbs after 
'string, these details may be of service. The 
•miner - flowering Cape Hyacinth (Galtonia 
"uedicans) iB quite amenable to pot culture, 
md three or four bulbs in a large pot make a 
• specimen, but it is better suited for planting 
star out of doors, where it succeeds perfectly, 
* it the border of an unheated greenhouse. It is 
c trttased freely by seed, the young plants being 
a hpt in the seed pans for one year, and aftor- 
i weds planted out in the reserve bed, where 
t t**; will soon attain to blooming size. Fnll- 
K TI *i! bulbs flower every year, and the flower 
j reach a height of 3 feet, but they do not 
^see» io increase by offsets. A charming group 
ij fo r»cold-house border might be arranged wifli 

P Digitized by Tj,Q< 


e 


plants of the Cape Hyacinth intermixed with a 
good variety of Lobelia fulgens, preferably the 
dark-leaved sort, which is scarcely hardy in all 
parts of the country, and, besides, falls an easy 
prey out of doors in early spring to the depre¬ 
dations of slugs. 

Tuli re 

are invaluable for giving bright colouring in the 
unheated greenhouse, and must be planted very 
early to ensure early bloom. The Van Thols, 
single and double, are the earliest, followed by 
the Tournesol. For a later flowering kind, La 
Candeur, a pure white, is one of the most 
charming. But for a greenhouse border rarer 
species would be more appropriate, and amongst 
these T. Greigi, a magnificent species from 
Turkestan, takes the lead. Our own native 
T. sylvestris, or Wood Tulip, is one of the most 
elegant, and quite worthy of a place in any 
conservatory where Tulips are admitted. But 
Tulips are perfectly hardy, and dislike being 
coddled, which must be borne in mind in their 
culture. 

Lily op the Valley and Solomon’s Seal. 

The Lily of the Valley is so universally known, 
that it is needless to do more than just refer to 
it in passing, but its near ally, Solomon's Seal 
(Polygonatum multiflorum), is not so frequently 
grown as it deserves to be. Nothing can be more 
elegant than the peculiar growth of its arched 
stems, clothed with leaves and waxy bells, and 
for a small conservatory may be grown with 
single or with three or four stems, as may he 
most convenient and suitable. The best plan 
is to have a successional planting, those grown 
in pots one year being planted out, and a new 
batch brought in to alternate with them. The 
objection raised to Hyacinths cannot be said 
to apply to 

Daffodils, 

which are an excellent investment in the way 
of bulbs, as they increase and bloom better year 
by year. Of all spring bulbs, these are the most 
delightful for the unheated conservatory. The 
refinement and purity of their graceful flowers 
contrast agreeably with the stiff uprightness of 
the Hyacinth. Daffodils and Narcissi may be 
had in bloom for quite five, if not sLx, months 
of the year, and are admirably adapted for pot 
culture. Different modes of treatment can be 
followed. They may be allowed to remain in their 
pots undisturbed for several years, being an¬ 
nually top-dressed with rich soil, until, in the 
case of large increase of the bulbs, they burst 
their pots. A better plan, probably, is to repot 
as soon as they have flowered with great care, so 
as not to injure the roots, then to sink the pots 
to the rim in finely sifted coal ashes in a suitable 
position out of doors, and to water judiciously 
until the natural period of rest, when no further 
care will be needed. They will require no pro¬ 
tection from ordinary rain, but should a con¬ 
tinuance of very heavy storms prevail, before it 
is time to remove them for forwarding purposes 
to the shelter of glass, it is well to give some 
slight covering, as the soil in the pots is apt to 
become sour if too much saturated with wet. 
For all plants to be plunged out of doors during 
the summer, it is well to place over the hole in 
the bottom of the pot, a small square of per¬ 
forated zinc. This, in great measure, prevents 
the ingress of worms, and also helps to keep the 
drainage from becoming clogged and also to 
confine the roots within the compass of the pots, 
which is an advantage, as such plants often 
“ root through” to an injurious extent. Another 
plan in the cultivation of Daffodils is to plant 
them out in the reserve garden after blooming, 
growing them on the successional system, which 
answers well for most bulbs which have been 
forced, however gently, to flower earlier than at 
their natural season. Daffodils require and have 
had a monograph devoted to their Bpecies and 
culture, and it is manifestly impossible to par¬ 
ticularise them within the ordinary limits of a 
paragraph. The earliest and one of the most 
beautiful of Narcissi is the paper white (N. 
papyracens), which may be had in bloom in 
December. From that time, until May and even 
J une, a constant succession of distinct species 


follow each other until the “ Daffodil season'' 
closes with the different varieties, Bingle and 
double, of the Pheasant’s Eye or Poet’s Narcissus. 
Hardy plants such as these are much better 
adapted to cold house culture than to the 
warmth of the ordinary greenhouse, where it is 
often a piteous sight to see their attenuated 
stems and flabby leaves, telling plainly of dis¬ 
tress, after which they seldom flower satisfac¬ 
torily the second year. 

URNITIIOGALUM NUTANS 
is not often seen as a pot bulb, yet it is almost 
unique for the purpose of dinner table decora¬ 
tion, no other flower that I know of supplying 
the peculiar silvery effect of its green and white 
blossoms under artificial light. It is a shy 
bloomer, probably from want of sufficient 
moisture at the roots, when grown in pots, since 
it is found naturally in damp places. In some 
gardens, especially in the eastern counties, this 
plant is spoken of as a weed, but that is no 
reason why it should not be grown where it is 
less well known.- Another bright little species 
not often met with is O. tenuifolium, which is 
very suitable for planting out in the spring 
greenhouse border, amongst other dwarf early 
flowering plants. O. aureum and O. arabicum, 
both handsome plants, would be worth trying 
for cold house culture, placed beyond the reach 
of frost. The former, like so many other beau¬ 
tiful plants from the Cape of Good Hope, is pro¬ 
bably nearly hardy. 

I.yias 

and their allies, the Tritonias and Babianas, are 
amongst the brightest and most easily grown of 
spring-flowering bulbs. In September plant 
about six or eight conns in each 5-inch pot, and 
plunge in ashes in a cold frame, leaving the 
lights off in fine weather. When they are 
brought into the house attend to watering, as 
the foliage is very apt to get brown at the tips 
from want of care in this respect. With this 
sort of treatment they will begin to flower in 
March. The one objection to these charming 
flowere is that they only open fully in sunshine, 
but if their position can be so arranged in the 
greenhouse as to allot to them a sunny comer, 
the effect is most brilliant. They succeed far 
better under cold treatment, as they are very 
impatient of heat. 

Montbretias 

are now becoming well known as hardy bulbs, 
but are excellently well suited for pot culture. 
M. l’ottsi, grown in 8-inch pots, kept well sup¬ 
plied with soot water, make fine specimens, and 
flower naturally in July. A smaller species, 
M. securigera, is not so well known, but is 
remarkably free flowering and attractive. It is 
interesting, besides, from the three small hatchet¬ 
like appendages on the lower petals of its light. 
Apricot-coloured flowers, which give it its 
specific name. 

Gladioli 

of the early flowering kind (llamosus) are 
amongst the most suitable of hardy bulbs for 
the cold greenhouse. It is true that it may be 
questioned why hardy bulbs should be given the 
shelter of glass at all; but any one who has 
given careful cultivation to, e.g., G. Colvillei 
alba, and allowed it to open its lovely cream- 
tinted flowers in a greenhouse, will not fail to 
see the advantage of so doing. They can be 
bloomed in May, a month or more earlier than 
the natural season, and are safe from all stress 
of wind and weather, which out of doors Is 
often destructive to their beauty, to say nothing 
of the gain to the aspect cf the conservatory, 
which can boast no more charming flowers. To 
this early-flowering section belongs also G. tri- 
maculatus, with white blotches on the lower 
petals, and is well worth growing. These bulbs, 
like the Ixias, increase very fast, and should be 
frequently divided when growing in the open 
ground, and repotted every season if in pots. 
There are several beautiful species of Gladiolus 
from the Cape not so generally known as they 
should be. One of these, G. Baundersi, has 
large G'hcrry-rcd blossoms spotted with white, 
and is less stiff and up-tanding than most of 


at a 






308 


GARDENING 1LL U 1STRA TED 


[Sept. 15, 1883. 


its congeners—a most beautiful and elegant 
plant. G. tristis, with pale yellow flowers tinged 
with purple-brown, is also interesting. With 
regard to the numberless hybrid varieties of the 
handsome G. gandavensis, which of late years 
have been found to be so degenerate in con¬ 
stitution, pot culture is by no means to be set 
on one side. A number of pots of them, some 
of which had bloomed late in a cold house, were 
turned out just as they were last November, 
placed in an open bed filled with coal ashes, 
which were also heaped up over the pots, and 
there left to take care of themselves during the 
winter. The foliage was left to die down 
naturally, and was not cut off. On examination 
in the spring the corms were found, contrary to 
all expectation, to be in good condition. They 
were immediately repotted, and replunged to 
the rims of the pots in their former position 
out of doors, and are now (in July) all promising 
well. Experience teaches that, though liking 
plenty of moisture at the roots, they should be 
protected from heavy soaking rains, otherwise full 
exposure seems to suit them well until brought 
into the house to bloom. 

Lilies. 

Of all bulbous plants, however, perhaps Lilies 
are the most interesting to grow, but all are not 
suitable for pot or close house culture, on account 
of their very powerful scent. In a glass garden, 
where the lights could be raised or lowered at 
pleasure according to the state of the weather, 
all hardy Lilies could be grown and seen to ad¬ 
vantage. It is not improbable that we may 
before long speak of Lily houses, in which Lilies 
of all kinds may be planted out, as commonly 
as we now do of Orchid or Peach houses. But 
a few hints on Lily culture may not be unaccep¬ 
table to smaller growers, who cannot afford to 
give high prices for rare sorts. Amongst the 
very best for growing in pots in a small conser¬ 
vatory, are the varieties of L. longiflorum and of 
L. speciosum. Other good species are L. Browni, 
L. Batemanni, L. Leichtlini, L. Neilgherrense, 
L. californicum pulchellum, L. Szovitsianum 
(Monadelphum), and L. canadense flavum and 
canadense rubrum. There are many more 
splendid species, e.g., L. auratum, whose power¬ 
ful scent almost precludes it from pot culture. 
Some are very expensive, and others not so suit¬ 
able or easily grown in pots. 

In Lily culture, as in the case of many other 
bulbs, it is decidedly best to use deep pots, and 
no one who has used them for this class of plant 
would prefer the ordinary garden pot. A good 
soil is found to be two parts of fibrous peat, one 
of loam, and a good sprinkling of coarse sand. 
After trying sand of different qualities, in¬ 
cluding the best silver sand, I have come to the 
conclusion that nothing answers so well as road 
grit. A load of this can be easily obtained, 
especially after heavy rain—when it is washed 
and sifted until a pure coarse sand remains, 
which is stored for potting purposes. Some 
cultivators recommend an admixture of well- 
decayed manure in the compost for Lilies, but 
as this almost always contains worms, it is 
better to give the nourishment they require later 
in the form of liquid manure or soot water. Use 
large pots, with plenty of drainage, with a per¬ 
forated zinc stopper (before mentioned), or Moss 
may be placed over the sherds upon which can 
be sprinkled a thin layer of dry soot to keep 
ont worms, which are especially injurious, as I 
have found, to Lily bull®. Grow out-of-doors 
on the north side of a wall or hedge, where 
plenty of light can reach them, but not full sun¬ 
shine, until the buds are well forward, or even 
about to open, when they can be removed to the 
conservatory. Syringe frequently in hot, dry 
weather, and top-dress the surface of the pots 
with rich soil, to encourage stem roots, which 
some species develop freely. After blooming 
it is better still to afford them the shelter of 
glass, or a sheltered and more sunny position 
than before blooming, in order thoroughly to 
ripen the bulbs. The foliage will gradually turn 
yellow and die, at which time, repotting for the 
next season must be attended to, removing all 
young bulbs. After a gentle watering to settle 
the new soil about the bulbs, they may be stored 
away in any convenient outhouse, until they start 
in spring. These are the main principles in the 
art of Lily growing. All Lilies, whether in pots 
or in the open border, must be removed (if 

directly after 
ring, as root 


moving be necessary) 
the foliage dies/awa; 


or repottei 
l after flee 


growth begins almost at once for the ensuing 
year, after which they resent all disturbance. 
Next to Lilies, 

Amabyllidb 

claim our attention. These are divided into 
two classes — deciduous and evergreen. The 
deciduous kinds are the most easy of manage¬ 
ment for a cold house, as they must be kept dry, 
or very nearly so, during their period of rest, 
and may be safely stored away, even in a con- 
venientcupboard. The evergreen kinds, of which 
the Scarboro' Lily (Vallota purpurea) may be 
taken as a type, must be kept growing all the 
year, though considerably drier in winter than 
during growth, and therefore must be placed 
out of reach of frost. They are also very much 
averse to rootdisturbance, and should be repotted 
but seldom. A. Ackermanni and also A. vittata 
have been long known to be hardy and bloom 
well under favourable conditions out-of-doors, 
and a very handsome crimson Amaryllis, of 
which I do not know the name, flowers well 
every year in my own cold gTeenhonse. A. 
vittata and A. (Sprekelia) formosissima, the 
beautiful Jacobean Lily, also bloom well, 
though, perhaps, with less certainty. Messrs. 
Henderson, of the Fine-apple Nurseries, St. 
John’s Wood, have succeeded in raising a 
number of very beautiful hybrids, which, from 
their method of treatment, are likely to become 
valuable plants for cool greenhouses. A. bella¬ 
donna is rather intermittent in its blooming, I 
find, in pots, but succeeds well planted out 
under a wall, and would probably thrive admi¬ 
rably in the warm corner of a greenhouse border, 
with a background of some dark evergreen or 
mossy wall to throw out its lovely pink and 
white blossoms, which come after the foliage has 
died away. Akin to the Amaryllids are 

Nehineb, 

under which head are included the well-known 
Guernsey Lilies. These are admirably adapted 
for autumn-blooming in the cold house. The 
great point in their cultivation is to mature the 
foliage well after blooming, as also it is in the 
preceding, A. belladonna. These bulbs are sold 
in quantities every autumn with their flower- 
spikes already showing, and though they may 
flower well the first season, it stands to reason 
that tlie bulbs are in a somewhat weakened con¬ 
dition from having been kept out of the ground 
too long, and very possibly may not get strength 
sufficient to enable them to bloom the following 
year. Hence the mistaken idea that these beau¬ 
tiful bulbs are useless after once flowering. 
With right treatment, however, Guernsey Lilies, 
in common with other species of Nerine, e.g., N. 
corusca, N. Fothergilli, and N. undulata, &c., 
should bloom every year. One secret in their 
cultivation, next to proper development of their 
foliage, is to roast the bulbs well during their 
period of rest, keeping them quite dry in their 
pots, which should stand in full sunshine, until 
they begin to show flower, when they may safely 
be repotted. These lovely plants bloom so late 
in the season when other flowers are on the 
wane, that they are invaluable to the cold house 
gardener, who should make a point of having a 
good collection of them. Happily they increase 
fast by offsets. As they bloom before their 
leaves, they require grouping with Ferns or other 
good foliaged plants. 

Veltheimia viridifolla 
is another admirable C'ape bulb too seldom seen. 
Its handsome rosette of undulating leaves is as 
beautiful as its spike of purplish-pink flowers. It 
requires repotting in a long pot every year 
when its foliage dies, generally about the end of 
June, as it is an early bloomer. This plant also 
increases freely by offsets. It needs to be kept 
just out of the reach of frost. 

Milla (Tbiteleia) dnifloba 
is a charming little plant which can be made to 
bloom at almost any time of year desired. Six or 
eight tubers are enough for a 6-inch pot, and 
they should be repotted and divided once a year. 
They are very impatient of heat, but thrive well 
in pots in the cold frame. 

LACHENALIAS, 

though rather tender bulbs, will answer well if 
just removed out of reach of frost. L. Nelsoni, 
a most beautiful hybrid raised by the late Rev. 
J. G. Nelson, of Aldborough, is worth taking any 
pains with. They succeed best planted singly 


or three in a pot. L. luteola, L. pendula, and 
L. tricolor are all fine species, and make charm¬ 
ing basket plants. They increase very fast, and 
must therefore be repotted and divided every 
year. Like most bulbs, they thrive best in very 
sandy soil. 

Berokias 

of the tuberous kinds are admirable plants for 
an unheated house. During their rest time they 
need no further care than that of being Btowed 
away in their pots in a cellar—on the top of a 
cupboard out of sight, or in any other convenient 
place out of reach of frost. They should receive 
a copious watering a day or two before storage, 
and once during winter the watering may be re¬ 
peated, especially if they are bestowed in a 
warm, dry place, such as a kitchen cupboard 
for instance, as the dust-drying process is very 
injurious to all bulbs and tubers. They must 
not be kept too moist, however, or they will 
inevitably damp off. In the spring the tubers 
should be shaken out, repotted, and set on a 
shelf close to the light to induce them to start, 
or some may be forwarded in a Cucumber frame 
if desired, though this is not necessary. Their 
after culture is perfectly simple. They like a 
great deal of pot room, and are frequently under¬ 
potted. One of the best Begonias for a basket 
is the charming little B. Davisi, a brilliant dwarf 
species, than which nothing can be prettier 
grown in a pan placed in a mossy basket. B. 
gracilis is another distinct species not often 
seen or mentioned. It does best grown in pots 
in full exposure, when the deep brown tint of its 
foliage contrasts well with its bright pink 
flowers. Various species of 


H-emanthus 

are exceedingly fine plants for the cold house, 
only needing protection frbm frost. H. albiflos, 
H. puniceus and H. coccinea are all good in 
their way and handsome. The two former 
bloom with their own leaves, but most of the 
species throw up their flower stem before the 
foliage expands, after the manner of the 
Nerines, and therefore require to be arranged 
accordingly with a surrounding of Ferns or 
other foliage. Some magnificent species of 
these plants are grown in the stove— eg., H. 
cinnabarinus and H. Kalbreyeri—which may 
possibly become as amenable to cold house 
culture as those already tried. 

TROr.EOI.UM TBICOLOB 


succeeds well in the unheated conservatory, 
and a number of plants covering a light 
wire trellis and clothing the wall is a fine 
sight. The tubers are grown in pots, and should 
be carefully repotted every year as soon as the 
foliage naturally dies down, which is imme¬ 
diately after flowering. They must then be 
kept quite dry until they start of their own , 
accord in early autumn, when they should be , 
watered freely and allowed to make some pre¬ 
liminary growth before being placed in their | 
blooming quarters. Both pots and trellis are , 
easily removeable, as I manage them, when the 
beauty of the plants is over. The beautiful , 
T. azureum, which is less well known, is equally 
hardy, but rather more shy as to blooming. 

The list of bulbs and tubers suitable for 
culture for the unheated greenhouse might be 
indefinitely prolonged, but enongh have been 
enumerated to show that there can be no lack 
of beautiful flowers available, without the use 
of a single lump of coal or coke or fixed boiler 
or pipes of any sort or kind. Ashmore. ‘ 


Suburban gardening. — For the en¬ 
couragement of a large number of suburban 
dwellers who find themselves in possession of a 
garden, of a size very common round London, 
viz., about 46 feet by 200 feet, it can be shown 
that, even under the most adverse circumstances 
as regards soil, smoke, &c., some satisfactory 
results may be accomplished. Seldom is there a , 
good soil to start with, generally a sandy desert I 
or a clay pit. In my case, the clay exists, which | 
sometimes even attains the blue character, but I 
with the assistance of the handy house ashes, I f 
have been able since the garden was commenced, I 
to considerably ameliorate the condition of the 1 
soil. Lilies, of course with a prepared station.® 
have grown wonderfully, and having been in tb;w 
habit of getting two or three photographed in tb M 
last few years, one taller than its brethren hs-WI 
been done this yeat.andacopyisendoaed. Suit.rjf 






Digitized by 


Google 


Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



310 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sept. 15, 1883. 


growth, like to that of the compact Kilene pen- 
ilala, and they bear double flowers. One called 
nanus atrosanguineus is very good, having well- 
formed double blood-crimson flowers, borne 
just above the dense tufty foliage; another has 
deep or crimson-rose flowers; another white; 
and some are more close and compact in their 
growth than others. 

There is a pretty rose-flowered type that is 
also most desirable. Of the tall-flowered or 
ordinary type of the double Indian Pink, such 
colours as crimson, rose, and white, among 
others, are particularly good. A form of Dian- 
thus, allied to chinensis and named pumilus 
striatus, has pale pink flowers, striped with 
crimson, and when it is true to character it is 
very pretty indeed, but it has a tendency to 
sport to the self crimson colour. D. imperialis 
is also closely allied to I). chinensis, and has 
double flowers of varying shades, and is of about 
the same habit of growth as the last named, but 
the flowers are borne singly generally on the 
flower-stalks, while those of D. chinensis are 
borne in clusters, and the type is therefore more 
prolific of bloom. 

D. Heddewigi and D. Heddewigi laciniatus are 
well known and very fine types of annual l’inks. 
The former has smooth and the latter fringed 
petals. Both were originally sent out in their 
single forms, but they are now double, and as 
varied in their double as in their single forms. A 
variety of D. Heddewigi named atro-purpureus, 
deep maroon in colour, is very good indeed, and a 
fine thing for cutting from. There are other 
colours equally attractive, and some have been 
named and sent out, but all are more or less 
sportive in character, and so are at times a little 
disappointing when planted to furnish distinct 
hues of colour. But let them sport as much as 
they will, they are always attractive, and gladden 
the eyes of all who grow them. 

All these Dianthuses do best when sown in spring 
in the ground where they are to flower. The soil 
should be fairly light and good, and the situation 
open. The plants do so much better when sown 
where they are to bloom than when raised in a 
frame and transplanted. The act of transplanting 
checks the growth of the plants, and it is some¬ 
times difficult to induce them to make a good 
start, especially if the weather be unfavourable. 

R. 


A FKW SHOWY PERENNIALS. 
Double Pyretheijmh.— In praise of these it 
is almost impossible to say too much, as their 
flowers are quite equal in size and form to those 
of the best Asters or Chrysanthemums, andalmost 
as varied in colour, and as they are borne singly on 
stems, they are of great value for cutting,and last 
long in water. The soil that suits them best is a 
rich deep loam, in which they are able to send 
their roots well down and stand without flagging. 
As nurserymen supply double Pyrethrums in pots 
they may be planted at any time, but in cases 
whereit is desired to make divisions of established 
tufts, that operation should be left till the spring, 
as then the crowns may be cut through, and the 
separation made without fear or loss. The large 
single Pyrethrums are also worth growing, as 
though they have but one row of petals, and 
partake too much of the character and appearance 
of the Ox-eye Daisy, they are very brilliant in 
colour, and look well in vases. These single 
Pyrethrums seed freely, and, if sown early in 
spring, the plants raised from them flower the 
same season, and quite profusely the year after. 

AQUiLKGiAB.if taken as regards their earliness, 
come next in the order of merit; the best among 
these are A. chrysantha, A. cocrulea, and A. glan- 
dulosa, andtherearenow numerous hybrids raised 
from these, but none that I have yet seen can 
compare with the three species just named. A. 
chrysantha is a remarkable flower, on account 
of the long spur-like appendages attached, 
and the clear, soft canary colour of the petals, 
which gives the blossoms a rich and refined 
appearance beyond what most Columbines 
possess. A. ccerulea is also remarkably fine, 
with its almost equally long spurs and the 
striking contrast which its blue and white 
flowers afford. Unfortunately, this kind is rather 
weakly and apt to die out, and to keep good 
plants it is necessary to sow and raise fresh ones 
annually. 

Alstrckmkrias are exceedingly beautiful, 
sending up large fields of lovely Lily-like 
blooms. To grow fAlstrmsneriria -wllkjthey re¬ 


quire, a dry, warm, sunny border, where they 
can have light, deep, rich soil, with plenty of 
sand, and free, open drainage ; and, when they 
can be so accommodated, their tubers lie snug 
and safe, and the plants increase in strength 
year by year as long as they stand. We have 
beds that have been in the same positions for 
the last quarter of a century, and this season 
they have been as fine or finer than ever. To 
keep out very hard frosts from the ground, we 
mulch the surface with leaf.mould, which we 
allow to remain on as a top-dressing in spring, 
and, beyond keeping the border clean, this is all 
the attention they get. In preparing beds or 
borders for planting, the soil should be trenched, 
and sand and leaf-mould worked in; and when 
planting the tubers they should not be put in at 
a less depth than from 4 inches to 6 inches. 

Plantain Lilies or Funkias of all kinds 
are very desirable plants to have in the her¬ 
baceous borders, and well deserve the name of 
Plantain Lily, astheirfoliagebears aresemblance 
to the one and their flowers to the other, and 
both are remarkably striking. The noblest 
species among them is F. Sieboldi, which has 
magnificent leaves that grow some 3 feet high, 
and are of a rich glaucous, bluish-metallic hue, 
rendering them very attractive. As a hardy 
fine-foliaged plant it is one of the best and well 
adapted for moist, shady situationsamong Ferns, 
where, if it has rich soil, it reaches its full 
development, and is then a great ornament. The 
different varieties of F. ovata are all good, as 
they too, though of much smaller growth, have 
highly ornamental leaves, some among them 
being marbled or variegated in a very beautiful 
manner. The whole of the ovata section are 
very free-flowering, and as the spikes are small 
and compact, they are very serviceable for 
cutting, and well worth growing for that purpose 
alone. Funkias admit of ready increase by 
division, the best time for doing which is early 
in spring. 

Geums and Potentillas.—C occineum fl.- 
pl. is a very fine plant, the flowers of which are 
most brilliant, and, being borne freely on 
branching stems, are also most useful for cutting. 
This Geum likes good soil and an open, sunny 
situation, and when so accommodated soon be¬ 
comes strong. The double Potentillas are like¬ 
wise very beautiful, especially the one named 
P. Robinsoniana, which has fine large 
flowers, with the petals tipped with • rich 
orange, and is very showy and good. Potentillas 
are not particular as to soil, and will grow well 
almost anywhere, provided they have light and 
full exposure; and, as they are naturally spread¬ 
ing and of procumbent habit, they form capital 
rock plants, as they trail over and show them¬ 
selves to advantage. 

Anemone japonica is just now grand, and of 
this there are several varieties, the choicest being 
the well-known A. japonica alba, the form and 
purity of the blossoms of which are quite un¬ 
surpassed. I have seen them used with capital 
effect cut and arranged in vases with single 
scarlet Dahlias, with which they blend and asso¬ 
ciate well. A. japonica hybrida is also a good 
plant, having flowers larger than the normal 
type, and of a soft rose colour. These Anemones 
delight in deep, rich soil, and, once planted, 
should not be dug about or disturbed, as left to 
themselves they spread and send up strong 
crowns at the sides. 

Monaeda didyma. —This is now finely in 
flower, and its large fiery scarlet heads show up 
from afar. Being large and of strong growth, 
this Jlonarda is best adapted for planting at 
the backs of wide borders in the foreground of 
shrubs, where at this season it forms a fine 
feature. There is a lilac and a white variety 
of this Jlonarda; but these are weedy and poor 
compared with the red, which is brilliant and 
good. 

Delphiniums.— For general effect and for 
shapeliness of habit nothing can surpass the 
Delphiniums, the tall branching spikes of which 
are striking in the extreme, especially such kinds 
as D. Belle Alliance, D. formosum, D. Bella¬ 
donna, and the different hybrids of these. As 
Delphiniums are so easily raised from seed, the 
wonder is that they are not more cultivated. If 
sown early in heat, and pricked out as soon as 
large enough to handle, they bloom the same 
year. Where I have seen the tall Delphiniums 
most telling is associated with white Foxgloves 
in groups; and anyone having room or suitable 


positions for masses, should not fail to make use 
of them in this way. 

Dictamnus fraxinella is a remarkable 
plant, quite deserving a place in any herbaceous 
border, as it sends up fine spikes of singular 
looking flowers that always arrest attention and 
command admiration from those fond of a 
garden. Besides being of curious form and 
striking appearance, the Dictamnus fraxinella is 
strongly and agreeably scented, and is in much 
favour with many for drying and placing in 
rooms. There are two varieties, the one reddish 
in colour and the other white, the latter being 
the smaller and weaker grower of the two, but 
both are very desirable. 

Anchusa italica is a plant highly deserving 
of cultivation, as the rich blue of its flowers is 
such as to vie with that of the Forget-me-not or 
Gentians; and being a very strong grower, rang¬ 
ing from 3 feet to 4 feet high, with a free 
branching habit, it makes a fine show in the back 
of a border. 

Bocconia cordata has been condemned by 
some as coarse, and so perhaps it is in some situa¬ 
tions, but for certain positions it makes a highly 
ornamental object, as, besides the large, silvery, 
elegant foliage it has, it produces long branching 
spikes of brownish-white flowers. As a single 
plant on lawns it is very striking, and so it is 
among low-growing shrubs, or near the margins 
of woodland or pleasure ground walks, for which 
its bold character suits it. 

Haepalium bigidum, with its tall, stiff stems 
and splendid clear yellow blooms of the miniature 
Sunflower type, is very showy in a border; and 
so are the Helianthus multiflorus and its double 
variety, one or two of which in the foreground of 
shrubs quite light up a place. 

Hyacinthus candicans deserves a place in 
every garden, but to succeed well it must have a 
light, dry soil and a warm situation, as otherwise 
the bulbs are apt to suffer and rot during winter. 
In planting, it is a good plan to use plenty of sand 
around each root, which insures proper drainage 
and allows the wet to pass freely off. 

Pancratium illyricum is a beautiful plant, 
producing long, large, Lily-like flowers of the 
purest whiteness, and of great value for 
working up in bouquets. Like the Hyacinthus 
just mentioned, it requires light, sandy soil and 
a warm position, to prevent it takiDgharm in the 
winter. 

Tritonia aurea is quite a gem, and distinct 
from anything else in the form and rich orange 
shade of its flowers. These are borne in great 
profusion on branching spikes, which, being thin 
and spare, are just what are needed for cutting. 
A warm, sunDy border is the only place in 
which Tritonia anrea does well, and it should be 
mulched over in the autumn to protect it from 
frost. 

Eudbeckia Newmani is also a valuable 
plant for the herbaceous border, and very striking 
with its large, bright yellow flowers and black 
discs, which no rain seems to injure or mar. 

8. D. 


Large Sunflowers. — Sunflowers lot- 
inches in diameter, i.e., 3 feet 104 inches in cir¬ 
cumference, appear to me so unusual, that I 
write to say there are now several blooms of 
that size to be seen in the garden of Mr. H. 
Drover, nurseryman, of this town (Ventnor). 
They are quite a striking feature as seen from 
the road ; indeed, the garden is now a blaze of 
colour, and must, I should think, be an attrac¬ 
tion to visitors.—F. H. 

Tuberous Begonias out-of-doors.— 

Too much can hardly be said in favour of 
Begonias as bedding plants, or as single speci¬ 
mens amongst mixed flowers, where the climate 
suits them, and (perhaps an equally important 
point) where they receive the very rich culture 
which they evidently like. The size of the tubers 
has also much to do with their success. Plants 
about three or four years old when we had 
them have made a brilliant display the last two 
seasons; they are now in full bloom. No amount 
of rain seems to much lessen their brightness ; 
even if some flowers are injured, they are quickly 
replaced by others. If the plants are wanted to 
make some display early in summer they must 
be pushed on, under glass, in spring, before they 
are planted out of doors; but if not required 
before August, the tubers may be planted, as if 
they were Potatoes, amongst spring plants 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


311 


Sept. 15, 1883.] 


(withont injury to the latter) In March or April. 
They may also be cut up like Potatoes, leaving 
one bud or more to each piece—a plan, however, 
which we have only tried after they have sprouted 
In heat. In this case, of course, they must be 
gradually hardened off in May like ordinary half- 
hardy plants. In some cases small tubers can 
be separated from the large ones when the latter 
are taken out of their dry winter quarters, but 
even where given the protection of a frame for 
a month or two these plants are not large enough 
to have a good effect the same season.—C. M. 0. 


THE SACHA LI AN KNOTWEED 
(POLYGONUM SACHALINEN8E). 

Now that beauty of form receives due appre¬ 
ciation, many plants formerly considered to be 
unattractive will probably find prominent places 
in our gardens. There are numerous hardy her¬ 
baceous perennials of noble and graceful growth 
that are well calculated to produce a sub-tropi¬ 
cal effect, and, what is very desirable, they are 
permanent features, requiring no further 
trouble when once planted. Amongst these rank 
a few of the Polygonums, the chief being P. 
cuspidatum, a Japanese plant to which we have 


slight attention bestowed upon it, the delicate 
markings and velvet tints of the blooms being 
fully displayed in the glorious sunshine.— 
Duncan Travers. [The blooms were large, and 
the colours varied and very brilliant. The 
most interesting collection of flowers of this 
pretty annual we have seen for a long time.— 
Ed.] 

10253— Thinning O arn at 1 on a —Carna¬ 
tions out-of-doors should be layered annually. 
Some persons do this, but they do not remove 
the layers ; they allow them to flower where they 
were layered. If this is done, the young plants 
would be too thickly placed, and ought to be 
thinned out. I would advise that all of them 
be removed but three or four to each plant. The 
young plants may be planted in clumps of five 
in the borders. If planted in beds, it is usual to 
allow 18 inches between each plant. This space 
is necessary to allow of each plant having its 
young growths, or •* grass ” as it is called, 
layered round its base next season.—J. D. E. 

10240. — TropsBOlum speciosum. — It can be 
planted after it has died down, or in the spring before 
it starts into growth. It is so hardy that it requires no 
protection unless in a very hard frtAt I have seen it 
grow to the height of 15 feet.—J ohn Ormiston, fi'T- 
bwrghthire. 


lng all nnripo Tomatoes, and hanging them up in 
vineries in a sunny position to finish ripening; also 

K icking Cucumbers, button Mushrooms, Caulifiowers, 
ard white Cabbage, and Capsicums for pickling. Pot¬ 
ting Hyacinths and Tulips ; also Osborn's early-forcing 
FTench Beans. Taking up and potting sirs. Pollock and 
Tom Thumb Pelargoniums. Gathering Passe Colmar, 
Dunmorc, and Doyenne dn Comice Pears; also Lueombe'i 
Seedling, Court of Wick, and Cockle Pippin Apples. 

Olasshousea. 

Housing Greenhouse Plants. 

The time to which it is safe to allow green¬ 
house plants to remain out of doors varies with 
the different parts of the kingdom; but it is not 
advisable to run any risks in this direction, for 
even a few degrees of frost, although it might 
not do more harm than affecting the points of 
the young shoots and bronzing the leaves, still it 
is much better to avoid this, as any injury in this 
way not only causes an unsightly appearance, 
but its effect is usually long apparent. The kinds 
least able to withstand a low temperature should 
be first taken in, such as Pimeleas, Boronias, 
Leschenaultias, Chorozemas, Hederomas, Plero- 
mas, Swainsonas, Aphelexis, and others of a like 
nature, leaving Acacias, Neriums, Camellias, 
Heaths, Eriostemons, and the more hardy section 
generally to the last. Avoid over-crowding, and 
elevate each plant sufficiently up to the glass. 
This last is not alone necessary to give them the 
most light possible, but it has the additional ad¬ 
vantage of allowing a better circulation of air to 
the under branches, which, even in the winter 
months when there is little growth going on, is 
nevertheless necessary. See that each plant is 
quite free from insects and mildew, either of 
which, if present, will spread and increase, and 
become a source of injury to all they affect. 

Hydrangeas. 

There are different seasons for propagating 
these—spring and autumn. Such plants as are 
forced in spring usually make a considerable 
number of side shoots at the bottom. Plants 
struck from these and now in 3-inch or 4-inch 
pots, and that have been fully exposed to the sun 
and air, will now have a strong flower-bud at the 
extremity; they will be better out in the open 
air for some time yet until the leaves are about 
ready to fall, when they should be put under 
glass where frost can be excluded either by fire 
heat or covering with mats. Where spring pro¬ 
pagation has not been followed or where there is 
any deficiency of stock, the points of the shoots 
consisting of three joints, if now taken off plants 
turned out in the open air, will strike in a little 
bottom heat, keeping the tops quite cool by the 
admission of air; this latter precaution is 
necessary to prevent their making top growth, 
which would destroy their blooming capabilities. 
When propagated in this way the cuttings Bhould 
be put singly in 3-inch pots, which will be big 
enough for them to remain in until they are 
about being started to force in the winter or 
spring, just keeping the soil sufficiently moist 
to prevent the roots suffering. For greenhouse 
decoration, these single stemmed Hydrangeas, 
with their large heads, are amongst the most 
useful hardy plants that are used for forcing. 

Cinerarias. 

These will now be making more progress than 
earlier in the season, as they like a moderately 
cool temperature; they are better kept in cold 
pits or frames for the next two months than 
stood, as often seen, on dry shelves in larger 
structures. A moist bottom for them to stand 
on is desirable, such as that afforded by a bed 
of ashes. They should be examined frequently 
to see that they are free from aphides, on the 
detection of which, means ought to be at once 
taken for their destruction, otherwise the plants 
will lose their bottom leaves, the presence of 
which in a fully developed and healthy condition 
is requisite to their well-being, as also to their 
appearance. If the earliest lot are not yet in 
their blooming pots they should be immediately 
put into them; 6 inches or 7 inches diameter 
are large enough for all purposes, if they are 
well supplied with manure water as soon as the 
roots have got fairly hold of the soil. If the 
smaller succession stock are large enough to 
move to the pots in which they are to flower, it 
is better to shift them than to allow the roots to 
get much matted, for if Cinerarias ever become 
at all stunted, in whatever Btage of growth they 
may happen to be, they never move so freely 

""CTtIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



The ftachalitin Knotweed (Polygonum s.ichalinenso.1 


frequently alluded, and P. sachalinense, of which 
the annexed is a representation. It is much less 
known than P. cuspidatum ; indeed, it is only 
within the past few years it has been known at 
all, and it has not yet been planted except in 
botanical gardens, though as a decorative plant 
it eclipses P. cuspidatum, being of much larger 
proportions, though the flowers, being greenish, 
are not so attractive. It reaches a height of from 
10 feet to 12 feet, and has ample leaves upwards 
of 1 foot in length and bright green. It has a 
striking appearance, either isolated on turf or 
in company with plants of a similar character, 
and no better subject could be employed for 
naturalisation in a semi-wild place, as it takes 
care of itself under any conditions. It grows 
luxuriantly in a moist subsoil, and hence a capi¬ 
tal plant for the margins of artificial water. 
Sometimes both it and P cuspidatum are apt to 
spread too much, and on this account they are 
unsuitable for small places, but in gardens in 
which room is no object, a group occupying say 
half-a-dozen square yards is not too much in 
order to show to advantage the stately port of 
this plant. It may be obtained from any of the 
large nurseries, and is readily propagated either 
by means of division or seeds. 


8alpl£flOB8US. —By this post I send you a 
box containing a few blossoms of Salpiglossus 
pown from seed. Should yon think it worth 
while, perhaps you would call attention to them 
as grown by an amateur. They were started in 
beat in May, and pricked out and planted in an 
open border. To my mind, no flower I have 
grown this season has repaid -me more fot the 

Digitized by VjOOQlC 


I 10*252 —Carnations and PicoteeB.— The Carna- 
l tlon has the marks on Its petals from the centre to the 
edge, and through the edge In flakes, or stripes of colour. 
The Picotee has its coloured mark only on tho outer 
edge of its petals.—J. W. K. 

10234. — PanBV seed.—'* R. 0. D." should get _ 
packet of fancy Pansy seed from a large grower, the 
fancy varieties being much larger and brighter in colour 
than the show varieties.— John Okmiston. 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extract* from a Garden Diary—September 17 
to September 22. 

Filling up all frames and cold pits as they become 
empty with Lettuce and Endive Planting early border 
with August-sown Cabbage plants. Cutting turf to stack 
away for potting. Weeding Strawberry ground, and 
cutting off all runners, afterwards mulching the ground 
with well-rotted manure. Sowing Mustard and Cress for 
succession. Taking up Alternantheras and potting them ; 
also a few Coleus for stock. Removing all cuttings 
struck in heat to a cold frame to hardeu. Pricking out 
on a large bonier Carter’s llartwell Early Marrow Cab¬ 
bage plants to stand the winter. Potting variegated Ivy 
and a few Carnations. Re-arranging Fernery. Earthing 
up French Leans in pots. Lifting a portion of the main 
crop of Carrots and stacking them away in dry sand in 
an open shed. Examining ail fresh planted shrubs and 
putting a few stakes and ties to those likely to be injured 
by wind. .Salting walks. Gathering Louise bonne of 
Jersey and Mario Louise Pears; also Wormsley Pippin 
Apples. Taking up plants of Mesembryanthemum cor- 
difolium and potting them for stock. Giving a top¬ 
dressing of soil to Cucumber beds. Storing away 
Cal odiums on dry shelves. Earthing up Celery. Clipping 
hedges, and cleaning shrubbery borders. Gathering 
Coe’s Golden Drop Plums and Barrington Peaches ; also 
Ribaton Pippin and Cornish Gilliflower Apples, and 
Flemish Beauty and Brown Beurre Pears. Potting doable 
white Primulas, Cinerarias, and Solan uni capsicastrurm 
Clearing off a piece of Turnips, and manuring and diflf 
lng the ground for other crops. Transplanting Early 
White Naples and Giant White Tripoli Onions. Gather- 


















312 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sept. 15, 1883. 


Nerines. 

Although comparatively little grown, these fine 
bulbous plants are amongst the handsomest 
flowers in cultivation. Half-a-dozen good speci¬ 
mens, containing eight or ten strong bulbs each, 
give an effect at this comparatively flowerless 
time of the year such as not many things are 
capable of. Let them now be well supplied with 
water, so as to keep the roots fairly moist, and 
give them all the light possible, which will in¬ 
tensify the colour of the flowers. 

Flower Garden. 

Bedding Plants. 

These will now be getting coarseand rampant in 
growth unless checked by timely stopping and 
regulating, and the floral display will be less 
brilliant; therefore, endeavour to make up for 
the reduction in quantity of bloom by increased 
attention to tidiness and all the minor details of 
finish, on which success or failure in flower 
gardening bo much depends. The Grass must 
be frequently mowed and rolled, edgings clipped 
and weeded, and walks kept clean, bright, and 
hard. Bring up any arrears in the way of pro¬ 
pagating by at once getting in all cuttings 
required. Where old plants are kept for pro¬ 
viding a stock of cuttings in spring, cut all the 
flowering shoots in tolerably close, so that they 
may make young-growing shoots previous to 
being lifted. Lobelias we find much more 
satisfactorily grown from cuttings than from 
seed, and in order to get good stock plants they 
should be cut in pretty closely about a month 
before they are lifted for potting. Any good 
Petunias that it may be desirable to retain 
should be treated in the same way, for at this 
time of the year there are seldom any good soft 
cuttings for propagating to be had, unless the 
plants have been cut back for that purpose. 

Hardy Flowers. 

In the herbaceous garden and on the rockeries 
n successful show in the new year must be 
planned and prepared for during the next month 
or two. It will not do to let things alone from 
year to year, else the weaker plants will 
succumb, and the stronger become sole 
possessors of the situation. To so great an 
extent is this the case in rockeries, that it is 
almost necessary to take them to pieces after 
four or five years, and to weed out the rank 
vegetation which has got deep hold of every 
crevice and covered over every space. If this be 
not done it will soon be found that favourite 
plants become altogether lost. But not only is 
this the case, but it is well to go over both the 
open garden and rockery at this season; to trim 
off the clumps which are permanent, to weed 
out and replant in the reserve garden runners, 
and seedlings, and crowded-out plants, to 
examine all bulbs, taking out the excess, and 
seeing the rest properly soiled and manured for 
their new flowering time ; and filling up all gaps 
which will surely follow after a summer’s bloom¬ 
time. Seedlings raised during the Bummer, such 
as Aquilegias, Primulas, Antirrhinums, Andro- 
saces, &c., should now be carefully planted out, 
and a number of good plants of each should be 
potted off, and plunged in sand or ashes in cold 
frames, so that you have double chances of saving 
your treasures through the winter months. In 
the same way every plant of value in the open 
garden and rockery should be duplicated, and 
cuttings or offshoots placed in pots in cold 
frames as reserve stock for spring time. In our 
climate, and after experiences of hard winter 
weather, it does not do to risk all in the open 
garden, so that if you want to be sure of your 
stock of choice flowers, you must take the trouble 
of securing the stock by these precautions. If 
either fails you have the other in reserve, and if 
all live you are the wealthier. All Sedums, 
Sempervivums, and Saxifrages should be gone 
over. It is well to grow these plants both in 
clumps and single crowns, for they have both 
beauty of mass and beauty of individual form, 
the one being as well worth cultivating as the 
other. If the best crowns of these be picked out 
and planted apart, they grow into grand rosettes, 
and in due time flower, whilst in the mass they 
bloom but sparingly, and do not display their 
full beauty of form. In the same way the Sedums 
and Sempervivums will come in useful if carefully 
cultivated. Christmas Roses should also be care¬ 
fully examined by removing the soil to see that 
the roots are active and in good health, and 
manure should be^piaced on the sipil above the 

Digitized byXjOOglC 


rootlets to give vigour to the blooming buds. 
This plant exhausts the soil by its profuse 
blooming every year, and merits an annual 
mulching at this season, which it repays with 
interest at the very season when its white flowers 
are most welcome. In ordinary bulbs for the 
new year it is worth remembering that many of 
the cheap Lilies are as good for greenhouse work 
as the more gaudy Hyacinths and Tulips im¬ 
ported from Holland. All the Narcissi make 
lovely objects when grown in pots, and especially 
the best of the Daffodils, Emperor, Empress, and 
Horsfieldi. The Scillas are also very beautiful 
when bloomed inside, and small groups of half- 
a-dozen in a 4-inch pot raised in cold frames 
make a good display in spring. 

Fruit. 

Vines. 

All late Grapes should now be nearly ripe, and 
a dry air should be allowed to circulate freely 
about them when they have arrived at this state. 
Lateral growths should now be cut off Vines of 
all descriptions; late rods, with plenty of 
healthy foliage, will still produce these shoots, 
but they must not be allowed to grow more than 
1 inch or 2 inches, and should then be removed. 
Be particular to keep the floors of vineries clear 
of decayed leaves ; if they be left lying about 
where ripe Grapes are hanging, they induce 
damp among the fruit. Do not allow inside 
borders to want water, even though the Grapes 
are ripe, if there is any fear of their shrivelling 
from want of it; better sacrifice a few by damp 
than that this should happen. After watering, 
either cover the border with mats or dry straw, 
both for the sake of neatness and in order to 
prevent rapid evaporation. The earliest Vines, 
on which the Grapes are to ripen in April and 
May, should be pruned at once, the borders 
renovated, and the houses cleaned, or if they are 
to be painted the present is the best time to do 
it. 

Melons. 

Increased artificial heat, both top and bottom, 
will now be necessary to keep these in vigour, 
and the fruit must have the fullest exposure to 
light by tying aside any foliage that intercepts 
it. Though less water will now be necessary 
than earlier in the season, avoid dryness, which 
is a sure precursor of loss of foliage and con¬ 
sequent insipidity of fruit. Free ventilation, 
full exposure to light, and an equable bottom- 
heat never fail to ensure fruit of high flavour. 
The blooms of late plants should be fertilised, 
and as the advanced season renders this crop 
somewhat uncertain, it will not do to wait for a 
number of flowers t j be ready to fertilise at the 
same time; on the contrary, the first that 
appears should be set. Keep the shoots thin, 
and those producing fruit should be stopped at 
the first joint beyond the fruit. As soon as all 
are set encourage quick growth by closing the 
house very early. With sun-heat, the temperature 
may advantageously be raised to 90° for an hour 
or two. 

Peaches. 

In damp localities, where there is a difficulty 
in getting the wood of Peach trees to ripen on 
open walls, it becomes necessary to give them 
every assistance possible. In such places the 
shoots should be kept much thinner than is 
requisite in more favourable situations, so as to 
allow the sun to get to them ; they should also 
be kept closely nailed in, so that they may 
receive the full benefit to be derived from the 
heat of the bricks. Shoots nailed in now will 
mature their buds much better than if they are 
allowed to stand away from the wall. These 
remarks do not, of course, apply to the southern 
counties, where the wood will ripen under almost 
any conditions; but in parts of the kingdom 
where the Peach can only just finish its wood, 
in ordinary seasons, it sometimes happens that 
the shoots are left detached from the wall under 
the impression that the buds are matured by the 
extra air they get in such a position. In this 
respect, however, the influence of the heat 
derived from absolute contact with the face of 
the wall is much greater. 

Hardy Fruit. 

The gathering of Apples and Pears will now 
claim daily attention, in order to secure them 
as they become ready, and before they get 
injured by falling from the trees. It does not 
often happen that every fruit on a tree will part 


freely at the first picking, but by taking all that 
are ready, and by leaving the most backward, a 
valuable succession of all kinds may be secured. 
If the walls on which late Plums are grown, 
which it is thought advisable to keep as long as 
possible, are not well coped, the temporary coping 
boards used in the spring may be placed over the 
trees for the two-fold purpose of throwing off 
wet and carrying the netting which it will be 
necessary to suspend where wasps and birds are 
troublesome. Next to glass lights reared up in 
front of the trees, Haythom’s hexagon netting 
is the best material we have yet met with for 
preserving the fruit, as it lets in a large amount 
of light and warmth, and being deep enough to 
cover an ordinary wall, it can be put up and 
taken down in a short time with very little 
trouble. If not already done, the newly grafted 
trees should be examined, as the young scions 
swell rapidly about this time, and unless the 
ligatures are loosened and the strongest growths 
are secured to stakes, they are very liable to get 
blown out by the wind. As the planting season is 
at hand, soil and drainage should be got ready 
for use, and to secure healthy trees from the 
nursery they should be selected before the 
leaves fall. 

Vegetables. 

General work. 

Taking up late Potatoes is now the order of 
the day. Magnum Bonum is not only thoroughly 
good, but with me the best of croppers. Victorias, 
although a capital crop and the best of table 
kinds, are not proof against disease. Champions 
are again a fine crop of really useful tubers. 
They are best grown entirely without manure. 
This variety we grow the most of, and find it 
better and more profitable than any of the older 
kinds. Onions, Shallots, and Garlic, now being 
harvested, should be moved daily, an operation 
done quickly with an ordinary wooden rake. 
When quite dry do not delay an hour in getting 
them under cover and safely stored; they are 
for all culinary purposes, perhaps, the most 
useful inmates of the kitchen garden. It is a 
good plan to give Celery a good watering before 
earthing, but, of course, the foliage must be dry 
before earthing takes place. Keep a sharp out¬ 
look for slugs and the Cabbage grub. I always 
endeavour to have the first row of young planta¬ 
tions of Cabbages nearest the edging as good as 
the middle ones, and every plant of the same 
size. Market growers sow the seed by the half 
acre, and hoe theyouDg plants out like Turnips; 
the result is plants stiff and hard at the bottom 
instead of being tender and drawD up. The 
most perfect Lettuce plants are, however, got by 
sowing thinly on the winter Onion beds. Thus 
treated, they are as broad as they are long. The 
mode of raising plants may appear to many to 
be a very simple matter; but to raise them 
properly requires a little experience. 

Turnips. 

Those sown about the beginning of August are 
an important crop, as upon them principally 
depends the winter supply ; when sown earlier 
it is difficult, in many parts of the kingdom, to 
preserve the young plants from the Turnip 
beetle. To get a satisfactory return from these 
late sowings, it is absolutely necessary to allow 
them plenty of room by thinning sufficiently and 
in time. At this season they make larger tops 
than earlier, and, unless given space enough, 
they will not make roots of a useful size. Where 
the first thinning was insufficient, they should at 
once be again gone over and more pulled out; a 
space of 15 inches between the plants everyway 
is not too much. 

Spinach. 

A little more winter Spinach should now be 
sown at once on a dry piece of ground, and will 
come in for use in the spring. This late sowing 
will not have a disposition to run so soon to seed 
as that put in at an earlier period. It is a good 
plan to go over the rows, and to partly thin them 
out, leaving the plants so that they will not be¬ 
come drawn ; and to complete the thinning by 
removing more as they are required for use. 
Ultimately, those that are left should be about 
6 inches asunder. This vegetable, like all others, 
cannot stand a severe winter when crowded. 
This method of partial thinning admits of a 
supply both for the present and future time 
being supplied from the same ground. Whenever 
an opportunity is offered by the land being dry, 
let the entire surface, where there is room 


l 


Sept. 15, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


313 


amongst growing crops, be gone over with the 
hoe and well stirred, in order to destroy the 
weeds. This saves much labour, by preventing 
the seeding of such annuals as Groundsel, Chick- 
weed, ice., which will otherwise keep on flowering 
and maturing seed to the end of the year. It has 
also the best possible influence upon the present 
crops and npon the land, by keeping it more 
open for the winter; but in order to effect the 
greatest amount of good, the soil should be quite 
dry when stirred. 

Herbs. 

Parsley and such other herbs as are in daily 
request throughout the winter should have 


plants, and if not carefully staked and secured 
beforehand, many a promising branch and shoot 
is snapped off, and speedily becomes an eyesore 
if not removed. The grass after the first autumn 
rains makes a straggling and weedy second 
growth, so that there is plenty to do in many 
ways out-of-doors, and yet I think that a stroll 
in a garden, even in a town garden, where these 
things are attended to, is more enjoyable just 
now when the Dahlias and tall Anemones, the 
Hollyhocks, Michaslmas Daisies, a few early 
Chrysanthemums perhaps, and above all, the 
bright beautiful Asters, are in bloom around 
you, than at almost any other time. Some- 


apparatus is in perfect order in good time, so 
that in case of cold weather setting in early all 
may be in readiness. Besides, pipes, Ac., are so 
much more easily got at when the house is empty 
or nearly so. 

Keep on putting in cuttings if required, they 
root well on an airy shelf now. Pot on Cinerarias 
and Primulas into flowering pots, and prick off 
Calceolarias into flat boxes to stand the winter. 
Two or three inches is a good distance for the 
plants; in this way they winter better than in 
almost any other. 

The lovely Vallota, or Scarborough Lily, is 
now in its height of beauty, and forms a striking 



immediate attention; the former, as a rule, 
winters safely on a dry south border, but a frame 
placed over it ensures its safety in all weathers. 
Basil, Tarragon, Balm, and Mint are all easily 
produced in any warm position in houses or pits, 
and if planted in pots or boxes they can be con¬ 
veniently removed as required from one place to 
another. 

WOBK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

September is an untidy month in almost any 
ttrden where there are trees. In towns—in 
tendon in particular—the leaves fall early, 
although put forth late, and if not frequently 
■wept up soon make a sad litter. Then the 
wind, of which we usually; have more, than 
enough this month, plays sad have", with oar 

vat arc 


how, autumn flowers seem to flourish best in 
the town garden j in spring most, if not all, 
urban gardens are a sorry sight, but I cannot 
now call to mind one autumn flower that does 
not succeed, and with ordinary care even flourish. 
This is probably accounted for by the fact of the 
air of a large town in summer being so muoh 
purer and clearer than in winter; the growth, 
which nearly always precedes the flowering 
state is made under more favourable circum¬ 
stances, and a much more satisfactory result is 
attained. 

In the greenhouse, abundance of air should still 
be admitted. Get everything cleaned up in good 
time in preparation for housing the whole Btock 
shortly. Any repairs needed should at once be 
made, and above all see that your heating 


ornament to either conservatory' or sitting- 
room. B. C. R. 

EVENING PRIMROSES. 

(fENOTHERAB.) 

It would be better were a more fitting designa¬ 
tion found for a portion of this fine family of 
hardy perennials, which can scarcely be termed 
as of the evening, seeing that they expand in 
the full blaze of the sun and close again at dewy 
eve. The Evening Primroses are distinguished 
by large bright yellow or white flowers, which 
in many of the species are so freely and continu¬ 
ously produced as to render them of great value 
for the summer decoration of the outdoor garden. 
The Missouri Evening Primrose (CEnothera 
missouriensis) is often employed as ’a bedder, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


















314 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sp.pt. 15, 1883. 


its blooms being of large dimensions, and the 
habit of the plant, dwarf and spreading, thus 
rendering it suitable for beds on lawns or for 
associating with other dwarf-growing subjects. 
This species demands for its well-being a warm, 
well-drained soil, growing with great freedom 
when thus situated, and not needing the slightest 
protection in winter. When, however, the grower 
may have to contend with a cold, moisture-hold¬ 
ing soil, he will find it imperative to take some 
precautionary measures at the commencement 
of the winter months. The best way to treat 
this plant is to takeoff some cuttings duriDg the 
summer months, which strike freely if inserted 
in sandy soil in a sunny situation. 

The soil should be thoroughly pulverised by 
turning it up roughly some time previous to 
putting in the cuttings, and should be well 
stirred with a fork and every lump broken. Then, 
having raked the surface and made it smooth 
and even, draw some shallow drills say 3 inches 
deep, and nearly fill them with fine sandy mould. 
Press this fine compost firmly down, and insert 
the cuttings therein, giving them a good water¬ 
ing to settle the soil well around t hem. Should 
the weather prove very hot and dry, stick in a 
few branches of evergreens in such a manner 
that the cuttings are shaded during the hottest 
portion of the day. Otherwise as little shade as 
possible should be given, for this (Enothera is 
of rather succulent nature, and enjoys the full 
blaze of the sun. If a cold frame is at liberty 
the young plants may be taken up in the autumn 
and laid in in some light soil, where not only 
will their safety be secured, but they will make 
throughout the winter a large amount of fibre, 
and will be in prime order for planting out in 
the spring. Young plants thus treated will 
generally give more satisfaction than stools 
which may have passed the winter in the open 
ground, for the flowers, if not produced in greater 
profusion, will be individually much finer. 


Winter protection.— Where the accommo¬ 
dation of a glass roof cannot well be accorded 
them, their safety will be assured by bending 
some Hazel rods over them and covering during 
periods of inclement weather with a mat or two; 
or, in the case of isolated stools, the crowns 
may be covered with Cocoa-nut fibre, ashes, or 
some kind of litter, or, better still, a large 
flower-pot or cloche. It is when the ground has 
become soddened with rain or snow and severe 
frost sets in, that this, as well as many other so- 
called hardy plants are liable to receive an irre¬ 
mediable injury. If the plant is not killed out¬ 
right, its vitality is so sapped that when the 
growing time comes there is an almost entire 
absence of that luxuriant vigour which charac¬ 
terises this species when the functions are In an 
active, healthy state. Where the natural staple 
is of a free, warm, sandy nature, there is no need 
to take any of these precautions, as the roots 
and crowns will remain in a perfectly healthy 
state throughout the year, quite unaffected by 
extremes of wet or frost. 

There could scarcely have been a more trying 
winter than that of 1879-80 for plants of such a 
nature as this one, but in spite of the unusual 
severity of the weather, extending, as it did, 
over so long a period, I did not perceive that a 
single plant suffered any diminution of vigour 
where the natural staple was light and well 
drained. This proves that this Evening Prim¬ 
rose is perfectly hardy providing that excess of 
moisture can be guarded against, but where any 
doubt upon the point exists, it will be better to 
adopt the means above suggested, and which the 
writer has proved to ensure the very best results; 
being obtained from this extremely gay peren¬ 
nial. A species which offers a decided contrast 
to the Missouri is Frasers Evening Primrose. 
This kind throws up a number of erect, some¬ 
what rigid stems, some 18 inches high, termina¬ 
ting in dense clusters of large yellow flowers, 
which arc produced continuously for several 
months. This species, in common with some 
others nearly allied to it, possesses points of 
beauty not always noticeable at the first glance. 
The contrast between the rich golden hue of the 
flowers, the beautiful green glossy foliage, and 
the rich warm brown of the flower stock, is very 
pleasing, and affords a harmonious combination 
of colour but rarely met with in flowering 
plants. 


Fraser’s (Enothera is a hardy kind, perhaps 
the hardiest of the ge^us, for I have-known it to 
live and thrive under cirmm} stances!which must 


have proved disastrous to the major portion of 
this family. I would, therefore, recommend 
this species to the notice of all plant lovers 
as being calculated to give a large amount of 
pleasure for a very small amount of labour and 
expense. As a complete contrast to the fore¬ 
going, I would take either taraxacifolia or mar- 
ginata, the latter a lovely kind, and worthy of a 
place in the most choice collection of hardy 
perennials. Other yellow-flowered kinds consist 
of riparia, which we now figure, and which is 
one of the best yellow-flowered plants grown 
during the summer months, serotina, and Youngi. 
In all cases, and wherever these Evening Prim¬ 
roses may be grown, it should be remembered 
that they, being profuse and continuous flowerers, 
demand a rich, free, deep soil, where during the 
hot and trying months of July and August they 
may find, just when there is the greatest strain 
upon them, an ample store of food and moisture. 
Upon the previous careful and thorough prepara¬ 
tion of the soil depends the enjoyment derivable 
from this fine, but, I may say, much neglected 
family of hardy perennials. An impoverished, 
sour, or clogged soil, in which the roots cannot 
travel freely or exist in comfort throughout the 
year, can only be productive of disappointment. 
Dig deeply, expose the top spit to sun and air, 
add light soil where such is seen to be neces¬ 
sary, manure well where there appears to be a 
lack of nourishment, and you will get for some 
months in the year a fine display of beautiful 
flowers. C. B. 


FRUIT. 

Pears for stewing.— Although culinary 
Pears were but coldly looked on a few years ago, 
I find that they are gradually becoming as 
popular as they deserve to be, and late in winter 
and early in spring a good supply of them is a 
great boon. In addition to that fine kind Bel- 
lissime d'Hiver, there is also that grand old Pear, 
Uvcdale's St. Germain, the fruits of which grow 
to an enormous size ; and by way of contrast to 
this may be named the Catillac. This last, 
though a very strong grower, commences to bear 
at an early age. Verulam is another fine Pear 
belonging to the same class. When cooked it is 
bright pink, a colour for which it is prized. Many 
of the best dessert Pears that fail to ripen are 
also used for cooking purposes, but they have 
not the tender flesh when cooked that the true 
culinary varieties have. As the planting season 
is now drawing near, those who have not yet 
made provision for a supply of culinary Pears 
should do so, and the sorts just named are the 
best for the purpose.—G. G. 

10224.— Blight on Vines. —The Vines are 
doubtless attacked by mildew. It causes the 
wood to be spotted. Fruit and leaves also 
become covered with white mould. When the 
leaves, wood, and fruit get in that state, they are 
hopelessly ruined. We should at once thoroughly 
dust the leaves and fruit with flowers of sul¬ 
phur. In winter we should take the Vine down 
from the wall, pull off all the loose bark with 
the fingers, and then wash it thoroughly with 
soapy water; after doing this, dissolve 6 ounces 
of soft soap in 1 gallon of hot rain water ; add 
8 ounces of flowers of sulphur, and half a pint 
of Tobacco water; thicken the mixture with 
clay and soot in equal parts, and apply it with a 
stiff brush.—J. D. E. 


VEGETABLES. 


Potatoes.— Seldom has the Potato crop 
presented us with such good results as it 
has done this year. The early sorts have been 
exceptionally fine. I have not so much as seen 
a diseased tuber. Myatt’s Ashleaf has come well 
to the front this year, although last year I had 
but a poor return, on account of its tendency to 
blight. Amongst other kidneys which I grow, 
the Knowsfield red-skinned kidney claims a 
place in the front rank ; it comes in very early, 
is more productive than the white kidneys, and 
of excellent quality and flavour. I consider it 
ought to be more grown than it is. The Read¬ 
ing Hero is a Potato of great merit, a grand 
cooker, and a good cropper. All the different 
sorts which I have grown this year, both first 
early and second early, have turned out un¬ 
commonly well; the late yield crops have all 
the appearance of being a heavy yield, and I 
observe but little appearance of disease amongst 


| them. A correspondent of Gardening some 
time ago suggested the digging in of fruit 
tree prunings, Ac., well down. I have tried the 
plan with Potatoes which were planted on a 
wet north border. I find it answers well for 
drainage, which is a great object in the cultiva¬ 
tion of the Potato.— Kirkton, Berwick. 

10233.— Onion maggot.— “ J. W.'* will 
find abundant information in some of the back 
numbers of Gardening treating on this destruc¬ 
tive pest. Onions are a vegetable requiring 
good cultivation. 1 should attribute a good deal 
of “ J. W.’s ” failure to the newness of the 
ground, which would be inclined to be rank or 
coarse, and has always a tendency to produce 
maggot in Onions. For some years I have been 
very successful in keeping this pest in check, 
and my garden was at one time very subject to 
it. This year my Onion bed is a sight worth 
looking at, while many people in this neighbour¬ 
hood have not more than one-third of a crop 
through the ravages of the maggot. My plan is 
simple: I get the ground well turned up or 
ridged in winter, working in plenty of well- 
decayed stable manure, Ac., but I also w’ork in a 
large quantity of charred rubbish or cheap char¬ 
coal—this is the best thing I have got as yet— 
and at sowing time I give a good coating of fine 
charcoal all over the bed, with a good mixture 
of soot. I am also in the habit of giving the 
plants a good dusting with soot when they are 
coming through the ground, selecting a showery 
day for the operation. This plan with me 
answers well in keeping the pest in check.— 
Kirkton. 

10248— Celery blighted.— How has the 
Celery become covered with filth? If it is 
merely dust and dirt, water the plants overhead 
with the rose of a waterpot. The usual Celery 
blight is a maggot that eats the fleshy part of 
the leaf by burrowing under the skin. This can 
be destroyed by frequent dustings over the leaves 
with soot when they are wet.—J. D. E. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


PLANTING HARDY RHODODENDRONS 
AND AZALEAS. 

October is probably the best month in the 
whole year for transplanting these plants. 
Intending planters should therefore make any 
such preparations as may be necessary at once. 
In some cases this means a good deal; in others, 
where the soil is favourable to their growth, it 
is a comparatively easy matter to make ready 
for any number of plants. For my own part 
I do not consider the undertaking very for¬ 
midable, even in cases where the soil has to 
be made for them, because I believe there are 
many gardens in which they would grow in 
the natural soil of the place if they were only 
fairly tried, and there are still many more where 
they would grow freely without any great outlay 
of time or money in the preparation of the soil. 
In deciding what preparation is necessary there 
are two things to consider—the capacity of the 
roots and the nature of the soil. I thick it will 
be readily granted that the capacity of the roots 
of Rhododendrons is somewhat limited. Their 
silk-like character renders them incapable of 
grappling with any harsh or lumpy substances. 
In a suitable soil the roots multiply at a great- 
rate ; therefore, in selecting a soil for them it is 
evident it should be one that is made up of 
minute particles, such as peat and the friable 
loams in which they do so well; and in pre¬ 
paring a compost in which neither of these 
forms any part, it is plain they mast be imi¬ 
tated as nearly as circumstances will permit 
in order to ensure success. 

To assist the inexperienced in preparing a 
suitable compost, I may be allowed to say that 

1 consider it to be altogether erroneous to 
suppose that they will only thrive in a peaty soil. 
Here acres of them grow in the most luxu¬ 
riant manner in loam, such as I have just de¬ 
scribed, aud there are gardens in which they 
thrive in a prepared soil in which neither peat nor 
loam exist to any appreciable extent. The pre¬ 
paration consists of turf cut from a pasture 

2 inches or 3 inches thick according to its com¬ 
position, and then stacked in a heap for six 
months before using. It is then cut up rather 
fine with a spade, and an equal quantity of 
thoroughly decomposed leaf-soil is added to it 
and well mixed together. In districts where 


Sept. 15, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


315 


sand is plentiful, one-fourth part of that may be 
added with advantage. The depth and breadth 
of space given to the roots is of considerable 
importance. In well-drained positions a depth 
of 3 feet of soil is not too much, but experience 
shows that the actual depth is not of so much 
consequence if there is sufficient breadth. In a 
well drained soil they will work downwards if 
the soil suits them, but if they cannot find what 
they want below, they will extend in all 
directions on the surface and thrive equally well, 
assuming always that each plant is able to find 
fresh feeding grounds in an unexhausted state. 
This is an advantage to the cultivator, who can 
apply fresh material as the roots extend. This I 
have proved in practice to be a good plan. 
Having to deal with a very large specimen be¬ 
longing to the arboreum section, the roots of 
which had extended to the outside of the posi¬ 
tion assigned to them, and as it was incon¬ 
venient to make an extension for the roots on 
either side, it was decided four years ago to see 
what a surface-dressing would do to restore 
the plant to its usual health. For this purpose 
two cart-loads of soil were brought and spread 
on the surface immediately over its roots, and 
the change in the condition of the plant for the 
better has surpassed my expectations. It is now 
as vigorous in growth as at any time 
previous, and I feel sure if the top 
dressing is continued at intervals of every five 
years, the plant will go on for an indefinite period. 
This, I think, is sufficient to show that the first 
outlay need not be of a prohibitive character. In 
the first preparation of the beds, however, a 
depth of 2 feet is absolutely necessary for the 
future well-being of the plants, and in damp 
low-lying situations it is a good plan to raise 
the beds a few inches above-the surface, but not 
otherwise. 

When to plant. —The disposition of the 
plants will depend in a great measure upon the 
space at command. In large gardens it is impor¬ 
tant that the effeot to be created should be 
bold and pleasing. The outlines of the beds 
should be graceful and easy. Anything like 
imitation will be fatal to their appearance when 
the plants have attained a good size. Where 
there is a large space of ground surrounding 
them, clumps of three or four plants of one 
variety should be planted, so as to create bold 
effects. The colours also must be arranged, 
w as to contrast well with each other. For 
small beds one plant of each kind is sufficient 
to create variety, and for single specimens those 
of neat habit should be selected, as there are some 
so loose in growth that they are unsuitable for 
standing in prominent positions singly. In form¬ 
ing new plantations of Rhododendrons where ex¬ 
pense is a consideration, I do not fill the whole 
space with the choicest kinds. It answers just 
as well to put in those that are intended to 
remain permanently at such a distance from each 
other as will ensure their having sufficient room 
in which to develop themselves to be effective, 
and then fill up the intervening space with the 
common Pontic kinds. In three or four years 
these can be removed, or as soon after the per¬ 
manent plants require the room as possible. This 
is a much better plan than after a few years 
having to take up the whole or a great portion of 
the plantation and rearrange it, because removal 
means a serious check at least for one year. 

Varieties.— In the selection of varieties every¬ 
one will be guided by their own taste, but there 
are so many good and distinct kinds, that there 
Is really no excuse for growing inferior sorts. As 
a type of each distinct colour I should select 
Kate Waterer for a crimson; Helen Waterer, 
white; Concessum roseum, rose; and Joseph 
Whitworth, purple. If I wanted to make up a 
dozen of the best, I should add to these John 
Waterer, rich carmine; Brayanum, vivid crim¬ 
son ; Lady Eleanor Cathcart, bright rose; Nero, 
bright purple ; Minnie, white with orange spots ; 
Everestianum, lilac; Eclipse, chocolate-crimson ; 
and Maculatum roseum, dark rose. These, I feel 
sore, will not disappoint anyone ; the only diffi¬ 
culty is, out of so many, to pick the best to please 
the varying tastes of different individuals.— 
LC. C. 


Destroying wasps.— I have for the last 
tenor twelve years destroyed these troublesome 
feeders on fruit with methylated chloroform, and 
thii involves the necessity✓tSfXvaiting till njght 
when all are at rest. But iulverisfc? ct 


cyanide of potassium, one or two tablespoonfuls, 
may be put into the entrance of the nest at any 
time of the day, and if quietly done does not in 
the least disturb the ingress of the insects. They 
readily enter, never to return, so that in twenty- 
four hours every individual is destroyed. I was 
curious to know the contents of a large nest, 
measuring 9 inches across, having eight tiers of 
cells. I counted 3400 wasps, and five of the 
tiers were full of pup®, which I did not count.— 
P. S. 


ROSES. 

WHEN AND HOW TO PLANT ROSES. 

It may seem absurd to write of this in the midst 
of autumnal harvests and late Rose shows. Who 
wants to hear anything about planting in 
August ? My first lesson in Rose planting was 
widely different. The order was given in No¬ 
vember to plant a line of standards 9 feet apart, 
and 4 feet from the side. Stakes were put at 
these distances apart on the lawn, holes dug out 
18 inches in diameter and 1 foot deep, the Roses 
planted, the soil trod in, and the turf laid up to 
within 3 inches of the stems of the standard 
Roses. The soil of the lawn varied greatly; in 
some portions it was rich and fat, in others hard 
gravel and chalk—the bottom of a disused walk. 
In yet others it was sheer gravel or shingle. 
Someone ventured to speak of the hardness and 
poverty of the soil in these parts and to suggest 
manure. “ Simpletons !” wastheanswer. “Iplant 
these Roses to flower, not grow; and, don’t you 
know, the less wood the more bloom.” This sage 
remark was a silencer, and was accepted by most 
present as a new axiom in horticultural science 
and practice. It was not, however, illustrated 
very favourably by the doing of what proved a 
very ragged line 300 yards long of standard 
Roses. Such a mode of planting is emphatically 
an example to be avoided. Never was the axiom 
“ the more haste the less speed ” more power¬ 
fully or disastrously illustrated than in the 
planting of Roses without due preparation. 
So vitally important is the latter to the 
well-doing of Roses, that in this case 
I should be prepared to set aside my 
determined opposition to a bare fallow. 
Yes, the extreme sweetness and beauty of a full 
perfect crop of Roses year after year would be 
cheaply purchased by this most wasteful and 
extravagant aid to culture. The bare fallow 
would not only enrich many of the best Rose 
soils, but has the merit of keeping the earth 
clean and ready for the crop at any time it may 
be best to plant Roses, for the winter, spring, 
and early summer are the most favourable sea¬ 
sons for all fallowing operations. It is then 
that the forces of nature are most powerful and 
do their work to the most effective purposes. So 
that those who understand how to fallow land 
into cleanness.richness,sweetness, will mostly have 
finished their labours by the end of August. 
Only think of it: the Rose beds, borders, brakes 
all fit for the Roses by tliat early period. This 
brings us to the point— 

When to tlant Roses. —The answer is in 
October, provided the soil and the plants are 
ready. It may astonish not a few rosarians 
to be told that the delay, if any, is more likely 
to occur in regard to the soil than the plants. 
Not a few hardly ever think of preparing the 
soil till the fall of the leaf; more still plant 
without any preparation, unless it be a spadeful 
of manure or compost thrown in with the roots. 
The early planter not only gets the pick of the 
market—the first pull at the Roses—but he 
invites and receives aid from the heat of the 
ground and the motions of the sap in the 
Rose plants. Ho thus obtains the finest 
plants at a time when they can expend their 
force in re-rooting to the greatest advantage; 
the cumulative benefit of these favouring 
circumstances to the re-establishment of the 
Roses it is almost impossible to over-estimate. 
As a matter of practical fact, it is found that 
Roses transplanted in October will be found to 
have far more numerous, stronger, and more 
active roots in December than those that have 
not been moved at all. Root disturbance 
quickens root activity, especially when and 
where the new root runs are superior to the 
old ones. The question, however, of the time 
to plant Roses is considerably affected by the 
character of the Roses planted. For all summer 
and Hybrid Perpetual or other hardy Roses, early 


autumn planting is best. The more delicate 
Noisettes, Bourbons, Chinas, Teas, are safer 
planted in the spring, especially on stiff soils and 
cold localities. But where these can be protected 
in severe winters, they may also be planted in 
October. This is very different, indeed, from what 
is generally termed winter planting, extending 
as the latter does from November to February. 
To plant semi-tender Roses in cold earth and a 
freezing atmosphere that keeps the plants in a 
semi-dormant state for several months, is to 
invite failure. The common practice, however, 
is to plant Tea and other tender Roses in March 
and April. As many of these are grown in pots, it 
is, however, the best practice to plant them out 
of these in a growing state towards the middle or 
end of May. The plants will then grow away 
freely, and seldom look behind them. Treated 
thus, Tea Roses will make more progress in one 
year than they do in many cases in three. The 
answer to the question of how to plant Roses in¬ 
cludes in what soil,to what depth,at what distance, 
insertion of the plants, and other items. Volumes 
have been written on the best soil for Roses, and 
the practical outcome of the whole matter is that 
first-rate Roses can be grown on almost any soil, 
provided care is constant and skill always at 
hand. Not, however, that soil is of little moment; 
the very opposite is true. Soil is very vital in¬ 
deed, but it is not everything. More, the best 
Roses are by no means uniformly found on the 
best Rose soils. This puzzled me for years; it 
does so no longer. The explanation is as simple 
as the problem of twice two are four. Thus many 
who have the most suitable soils are content with 
this great coin of vantage, and leave their Roses to 
their fate in it; hence that fate not seldom ends 
in failure. On the contrary, those who perforce 
have to plant Roses in poor soil never tire of as¬ 
sisting them by every means in their power, and 
are richly rewarded by scoring the most brilliant 
successes. 

The best soil fer Roses is a holding loam, 
a clay; no, not a clay, but a hybrid between 
this and a friable or sandy loam—not an agree¬ 
able soil to walk over immediately after drenching 
rains unless the drainage is peculiarly perfect. 
And thus through all the wide diversity of stocks 
and varieties. Yes, through them all, and for all, 
I should stick to the holding loam. No doubt my 
preference will be criticised more or less severely 
by rosarians; but the loam is preferable for 
its simplicity and its powers or capability of 
transformation with almost any conceivable 
variety of Rose soil, peat not excepted. It is 
not needful to discuss peat, though with night soil 
or good farmyard manure ad libitum I would not 
fear growing show Roses in peat; any soil, in 
fact, with additions and corrections may be made 
to grow Roses. All loams will grow them with 
less addition than any other. The Dog Rose 
as such seems to delight in sending its long, 
whip-like cords—they can hardly be called roots 
—into the hardest clays. Though it may be 
admitted that Roses on the Brier take more 
kindly to stiff feeding grounds than the same 
Roses on the Manetti or other stocks, yet it 
does seem that this Rose modifies or changes 
the taste of the Brier roots in favour of some¬ 
thing lighter, as well as richer and sweeter, than 
anything they can find in sheer clay—plastic or 
otherwise. I started Rose growing in earnest 
with claying a good loam. After a year or two’s 
struggle, as much of the clay as possible was 
picked out, and the remainder neutralised by a 
heavy dressing of cinder ashes and road sand. 
The Roses, all on the Brier—mark that, please 
—did better and looked happier, in the words 
of the novelist, ever afterwards. Since then I 
have not dabbled in clay for Roses, not but that 
it might prove useful on sand ; but not having 
sand we have no need of its natural consolidators, 
clay or marl. However, night soil or cow manure 
is preferable to either for Roses on very light 
soils. But we are running into nauseous as well 
as adhesive compounds, as rosarians are wont 
when discussing the matter of soils for their 
favourites. Suffice it, therefore, to say that road 
sand, leaf-mould, Cocoa fibre refuse, coal ashes, 
very light stable manure, and burnt earth arc 
among the best dressings for over-heavy soils for 
Roses. Light sandy or peaty soils may be consoli¬ 
dated as well as enriched by heavy dressings of 
marl, clay, strong farmyard or other manures, 
night soil, Ac. Any soils soured into dead inert¬ 
ness by stagnant water, or stiff sterile clays, had 
better be removed bodily, and other and more 
suitable put in their place. Where good Roses 



316 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sept. 15 , 1883 . 


are desiderated, this radical measure of the entire 
substitute of good soil for bad often proves the 
best as well as the cheapest in the end. Some 
capital results have been obtained by a simple 
admixture of soils that is easily managed in most 
places. Too often soils in kitchen gardens and 
orchards are fruit or vegetable sick. The same 
crops have been grown so long in the same places, 
that they seem incapable of growing them any 
longer. Such soils are, however, often fat and 
strong, and were a part of them removed to 
Rose beds or borders in flower gardens, or on 
lawns, the soil from these replacing that, not 
only the Roses, but the fruits and vegetables 
would often be greatly benefited. The strength, 
freshness, and vigour of soils to give perfect 
Roses and other products comes very much from 
their admixture. This fact is too much lost sight 
of in Rose culture. A change of soil is often as 
useful, and probably as invigorating, as a coat 
of manure. Neither can Rose soil, as a rule, be 
over manured. Roses are such gross feeders, and 
convert manures so rapidly into fragrance and 
beauty, that, provided the soil is well drained, it 
can seldom be made too rich for the well-doing 
of Roses. 

Depth of soil. —This should range from 2 feet 
to 3 feet, not but that Roses will thrive fairly well 
on thinner soils, but deep soils become virtually 
stores for water in dry weather. This is of great 
importance to Rose trees and bushes. The large 
spread of foliage and heads of bloom speedily 
drain the plants dry ef fluid when fully exposed 
to the sun. Deep root runs are also the most 
favourable for protecting the roots from the 
severity of the frosts of winter. Frequently when 
the surface roots of Roses have been frozen, those 
lowerdown haveescaped. Deep soils encourage the 
roots to dig deep, and these are often of consider¬ 
able service to Roses, especially during seasons 
of extreme drought and cold. The proper depth 
to plant Roses is also of great importance. The 
shallow planting even of fruit trees has often 
been carried to a great and disastrous extent. 
Roses havealsosufferedfromtheprevailing mania 
(I had almost written) in regard to surface plant¬ 
ing. While the collars of Briers should not be 
buried, the main roots should be covered to a 
depth of from 4 inches to 6 inches in good, well- 
prepared soils. They will also soon penetrate 
deeper,for the Rose in all its sect ions, in eluding the 
Brier or Dog Rose, is naturally a deep-rooting 
plant. Neither does this tendency in the Rose 
sensibly affect its flowering. If it did it might 
still be beneficial, for I hold that the life and 
health of the Rose is of more consequence than 
any extremes of floriferousness that may be 
gained at the expense of either of these. Wide 
observation and experience have also forced me 
to believe that thousands upon thousands of 
Roses are annually sacrificed to the fashion of 
shallow planting. We shall have to plant deeper 
to find the gold—not only of first prizes, the first 
or second year, but of robust health and lon¬ 
gevity of plants. Next in importance to depth 
is solidity of soil in planting. A stale furrow is 
as essential for Roses as for a heavy crop of 
Barley. And this is one reason why I would 
advocate fallowing as the best preparation for 
Rose planting. This process, properly carried 
through, not merely cleans and enriches, but 
consolidates the earth. Ground dug or deeply 
trenched, and immediately planted with Roses, 
is as likely to prove a grave as a feeding 
ground for their roots. Had it no other 
fault, it is so powdery as to repell rather 
than invite the grip of the Rose roots, and 
so loose that they cannot get hold of it. True, 
the heel or the spade may supply some rough and 
ready pressure to the roots on newly-trenched 
land, but this is different and as inferior as can 
be from the natural mellowing and general con¬ 
solidation that comes through the mere lapse of 
time to cultivated earth. As to distance to plant, 
very much depends on sites, soils, and objects of 
the cultivator. Single pyramidsor climbing Roses 
may be placed at distances of 20 or 30 yards 
asunder. Tangled masses or fences of similar 
varieties at 4 feet to 6 feet. For standards in 
beds or borders from 3 feet to 5 feet are suitable 
distances. In avenues by the sides of main or 
other walks, from 6 to 9 feet. Dwarf Roses may 
range from 1 foot to 4 feet apart, according to 
varieties, soils, &c. For Tea and China Roses in 
beds to run into masses, from 3 feet to B feet 
are suitable. The isolated planting of Roses has, 
however, been carried to i 
is largely responsible'Ior t] 


many roseries, and the wholesale condemnation 
that has been heaped upon standards. Groups 
rather thickly planted are far more effective than 
this dotting or isolated system of growing Roses. 
And where standards are grown to any great 
extent, the most artistic mode is to mix them with 
dwarfs, which at once clothe the bare earth and 
the bald stems of the Roses. It must be added, 
however, that this plan is impossible where hares 
or rabbits have access to the Roses, as these 
vermin have a sweet tooth for Rose wood and 
leaves, as the belle of the season has for sweet 
Devoniensis or spotless Niphetos buds in her 
dress or hair. 

Insertion of the plants. —The quicker 
this is done the better. My indignation has 
waxed hot at times to see how Roses are 
dawdled with at planting. Leisurely unpacked 
in a cutting nor’-easter, dangled about in the air, 
or laid down on the freezing earth while stakes 
are found, labels written, holes dug, &c.—why, 
the roots are full half or wholly dead before 
they get into the ground, and it is little wonder 
that they die outright so soon as they are buried 
out of sight of the planter. Everything should 
be ready before the roots are exposed—sites 
chosen, holes dug, stakes for standards driven in, 
ties ready, compost or manure, if any, all on the 
spot. As soon as the roots are seen, quickly 
examine, and any bruised portions of any cut off 
with a sharp knife ; then the Roses are planted, 
the earth consolidated around the roots, and the 
stems, if needful, made fast to strong stakes. 
This immobility of top and bottom is one of the 
first conditions to the successful rooting of 
newly planted Roses or other plants. It is 
physically impossible for the roots to makegood 
their new grasp of the earth if they are left to 
the cruel caprice of every changing wind that 
blows. No sooner do they run into the soil on 
the south than the wind blows from that quarter 
and snaps them clean off or tears them out. 
And the same system of denudation awaits them 
on the northern, western, or eastern boundaries. 
Perfect stability of top and bottom prevents all 
this cruelty to the roots of the Roses, and 
enables them to make good their new grasp on 
the fresh soil in which they are planted in the 
least possible time. 

Surface mulching.— This should be done 
before the severe frosts of winter set in. Not 
but what most Rose roots are fairly hardy, but 
the early transplanted roots of Roses and other 
plants are abnormally active for several months 
after planting. This unseasonable activity be¬ 
gets an unnatural tenderness in the roots. 
Nor is this all. Root disturbance seems 
to produce a temporary derangement of the 
normal direction of root growth. For a 
time they seem unable to distinguish be¬ 
tween up or down, north or south, east 
or west; hence one of the most common pheno¬ 
mena observed soon after planting is a rush of 
new roots to the surface. Not a few of these 
seem to discover their mistake later on, and 
change their course downwards. But meanwhile, 
unless promptly protected with a frost-proof 
mulch soon after planting, the first winter 
severities soon make short work of the life and 
vigour of those that may have lost, their way, 
and make tracks for the withering air instead of 
the feeding and protecting earth. Whatever 
accidents may ultimately overtake or cripple 
those surface roots, there can be no question of 
the practical wisdom and importance of pre¬ 
serving the whole of them during the first 
winter and summer after the planting of Roses. 
Almost any sort of mulching or surface covering 
will suffice for this purpose. In flower garden 
beds and borders, where neatness must be com¬ 
bined with efficiency, there is no better mulch 
than one of 3 inches or 4 inches of Cocoa fibre 
refuse j the rougher the better. In other places, 
where efficiency only has to be considered, there 
is no better mulch than stable-yard manure. 
Either of these substances are as effectual in 
keeping out the frost of winter as in counter¬ 
acting, by a compound process, the drought of 
summer. The mulching prevents the sun’s rays 
from penetrating the soil, and also checks the 
evaporation of water from the surface, thus 
keeping the roots cool and moist in the hottest, 
driest weather. In cases where neither mulch is 
within reach, a loose surface of the soil itself is 
the best substitute, and this, I may add, is 
also a powerful antidote against the destruc¬ 
tive power of winter frosts and summer 
droughts. D. T. 


reat extremes, and 
e stjltgrl logk of so 


riiHer lo<?l 


Striking Rose cuttings.— Now rhe time 
is at hand for propagating Roses, allow me to 
inform readers of Gardening that if Roso 
cuttings are taken off with a heel and put in 
sand kept very moist, they will strike more 
freely than if put into mould. After they throw 
out ro ot, take them carefully out and pot into 
good rich compost, say two parts rotten manure 
and one part turfy loam. I can vouchsafe this 
is a good way of propagating Roses. Keep them 
in a frame or greenhouse. I have struck several 
in this way already this year.—A. T. H. W. 

10225.— Roses In windows.— R. M. C .— 
Souvenir de la Malmaison is a Bourbon Rose, 
one of a most beautiful clear rosy-blush or 
flesh colour, vigorous in growth, and very free 
flowering. You put it out-of-doors by day in 
the sun. Why not leave it out by night in the 
dew ? Try that! As it is but recently potted, it 
will not require so much water as if the pot was 
full of roots. Keep your plant out-ef-doore 
night and day at present. When it shows flower 
you can place it in the window.—J. D. E. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


Euoomis punotata. —This Cape bulbous 
plaDt, though well known, is not often met with; 
it has very pretty mottled foliage, and produces 
tall spikes of delicately-scented flowers, that 
although not brilliant are very pleasing, and 
add variety to a cool house, while Vallotas and 
similar plants afford plenty of colour. The 
Eucomis is nearly hardy, but repays the shelter 
of a glass roof by bringing both flowers and 
foliage to greater perfection than when fully 
exposed, and it is well worthy of cultivation on 
account of its pretty foliage alone. It grows 
freely in sandy loam, and is not subject to any 
of the insect pests that mar the beauty of so 
many fine-leaved tender plants.—G. 

Plumbago capensls.— Very much has 
been said in Gardening about this beautiful 
plant. I have read of 5-inch pots being the most 
suitable to flower it in; but I must differ a little 
from this, for plants grown in such small pots 
cannot be expected to produce much bloom. I 
visited the greenhouse of a friend the other day, 
and there saw this beautiful Plumbago planted 
behind the stage, and allowed to grow at will. 
It had reached the top of the house, and was 
one perfect mass of bloom. All that will be re¬ 
quired after the flowering is over will be to go 
over and cut back the plant with the shears, and 
a neat, tidy appearance will be given, and it will 
start into growth again next spring.—C. C. S. 

10198. — Lastrea fragrans. — The plant 
which “C. H.” says is gradually dwindling away 
may be doffig so from being grown in too warm 
and close an atmosphere, or from being potted 
in unsuitable soil, or possibly from being over¬ 
potted. This species must be grown cool, not 
in artificial heat. It requires a good circulation 
of air about it; the oompost should be loam and 
sand in equal proportions, and about as much 
leaf-mould as the two together, not too fine, but 
open. In repotting, care must be taken not to 
break off the roots. Water should be kept off 
the foliage, but a good supply given to the roots 
when growing, care being taken that it does not 
become waterlogged.— Fern. 

10213.— Scale on Perns. —Scale is an 
insect which Ferns grown under glass are gene¬ 
rally subject to, some species, however, much 
more than others. The cause of its appearance 
is the presence in the place of one or more 
brought there on some plant, and these increase 
and multiply very rapidly. When detected, the 
plants on which they are found should be care¬ 
fully cleaned by picking the insects off and 
sponging or dipping the plants in Fir-tree oil 
or some other insecticide. If this is persisted 
in, if not eradicated, the pest will be kopt 
within reasonable bounds. Weakly plants are 
more subject to their attacks than strong ones, 
and those grown in too warm a temperature are 
also more liable to be attacked than when grown 
cooler.— Fern. 

10227. —Geraniums leaves turning 

yellow.—The leaves of Geraniums may turn 
yellow from various causes. Too much or too 
little water, also by leaving the plants so long 
in a pot that the soil becomes quite exhausted. 
You would be best able to say whether the 
plants require to be repotted ; if they do, it should 
be seen to at once. Good loam, a little rotten 



Sept. 15 , 1883 .] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


317 


manure, and leaf-mould is the best potting ma¬ 
terial. A 9-inch potful of sharp sand should be 
added to each barrow load. No one could tell 
you how often the plants should be watered, but 
it is best not to water a pot plant while the soil 
is moist, but it ought not to become anything 
like dusty dry.—J. D. E. 

10243.— Double Nasturtiums.— These 
must be propagated by cuttings like other bed¬ 
ding plants. If you have no other convenience 
than a window, the best plan would be to put 
the pot containing the cuttings under a bell- 
glass until they are rooted. The young plants 
would winter in a window with care. This 
answer also applies to query 102.19.—J. D. E. 

10229.— Gladioli In pots not flower¬ 
ing.—The beginning of May is rather late to 
plant Gladioli, but they have made fairly good 
growth. They ought to have plenty of light 
and air, and if they are strong in proportion to 
their height, you may still expect them to flower. 
During the recent warm weather they would 
have done better if the pots had been plunged 
out-of-doors. Weak manure-water would be 
beneficial, as 4.1-inch pots are rather small for an 
average Gladiolus bulb.—J. D. E. 

— I would advise 11 Experimentalist ” to withhold the 
liquid manure, and (rive just a little pure water, as it seems 
thst the plants have grown rather too strong and rank. 
—Johk Orsustoh. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 

(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

10245. —Poison for slugs.— When slugs 
attack plants out of doors, the best way to de¬ 
stroy them is to dust the plants and the ground 
underneath them with soot. If the slugs are 
numerous, two or three applications will be 
necessary. The best time to apply the soot is at 
night when the slugs are out feeding. If they 
attack pot plants, pick them off by using a light 
at night.—J. D. E. 

10279.— Sulphate of ammonia— •' W. S.” 

should be able to obtain sulphate of ammonia 
of any chemist at about 6d. per pound, or he can 
get it from R. Davis, 66, Warner Road, Camber¬ 
well, London, with full directions for the culture 
of Chrysanthemums. It should be used at the 
rate of from four to eight ounces to a gallon of 
water, and applied once or twice a week.— 
A. P. R. 

10236. — Diseased Rose leaves. — Flowers 
of sulphur dusted on the leaves and stems will destroy 
mildew; or perhaps a more effectual way Is to mix the 
flowers of sulphur In soft soapy water, and syringe the 
Bose bushes with It. The maggots must be picked off 
by hand.—J. D. E. 

10216.—Fixing sun dial. —The sun dial should be 
made for the locality A brass one about 10 inches would 
cost about 3£s to 40s. The index should point direct 
north and ought to be set by an accurate compass.—A. 
Dick. 

B. C. —We cannot recommend any particular stove. 
- Yorkihin .—Write to some Rose grower tor a de¬ 
scriptive catalogue ot Roses. Kofi—try Barr & Sons, 

12, King street. Covent Garden, London.- Stella. —It 

is Impossible to name fruit In such a rotten condition as 

that yon send.-F. W. B.— Try some of the northern 

seedsmen.- A. A.—No enclosure. 


QUERIES. 


.Rules for Correspondents .—All communica¬ 
tions Jot insertion should be clearly and concisely written 
<m one side of the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Lettern relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
smd address qf the sender is required, in addition to any 
uom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
thtrnM always bear the number and title qf the ouery 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece qf paper. Owing to the necessity qf 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and 
communication* the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

Naming - plants. —Four plants, fruits, or flowers only 
can be named at one time, and this only when good 
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name 
varieties of florists’ ftowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
specialist who has the means qf comparison at hand. Any 
communication respecting plants or flowers sent to name 
dumUl always accompany the parcel. 


10298 —Insects in garden.—I shall be very thank¬ 
ful for some practical information as to the origin of the 
virions worms or grabs that do so much damage to 
Cabbages, Ac., in my garden. Last year I had nearly all my 

2 etables eaten away by these troublesome things. I 
ed several people how to deal with them ; one said 
QM lime, another salt, another advised me to use paraffin 
la water, and so on. Well, when I sowed the seeds, I 
aaed lime and salt. When the plants came up, I carried 
a deal of water with paraffin oil in it, until the Cabbage 
haves were like a piece otfmfitt leather. Now, this 


tin oil in it, until the Cabfc 
of burnt leather. Now, 

Go giC 


watering with paraffin in it will not kill these grubs, but 
the raw paraffin will. But then that will bum and 
destroy the Cabbage. I also bought lime and scattered 
it between the plants, and dusted them with it; but all 
my labour is in vain. Lastly, I began to look for them, 
and I found a variety ; some green, light green, black on 
the back, and many almost the colour of a snake Some 
half inch, some 1 inch, and others 1} inch long. More¬ 
over, I found many underneath the outside leaves, 
enclosed in a beautifully made web, fast woven in. Of 
course I killed all before me. I also found on some a 
kind of creeping thing like a small louse—thousauds of 
them together. Iu some 1 found various-sized snails. 
Now, out of about 1000 Cabbages, 1 have not one good 
one ; these pests have riddled them. I think if I can get 
at their origin, or what they spring from, or what is the 
cause of them, I should be better able to deal with them, 
and probably others too. Some tell me that they come 
from the grubs ; others say from the butterflies, and so 
on. Still I am in ignorance, and at a loss to know how to 
prevent them from destroying my stuff. There are many 
grubs in the soil; it is thick with them, notwithstanding 
all that I have hitherto done.— A Young Amateur. 

10299.—Caterpillars on fruit trees.—I shall be 
obliged for information concerning a pest of caterpillars 
which has fallen on the fruit trees in my garden. The 
trees are on walls, and consist of Pears, Plums, and 
Cherries. None of my neighbours’ treeB are similarly 
afllicted. They resemble small black leeches, but they 
are true caterpillars with legs. They Beem to have a 
kind of sucker on their heads, and they eat the whole 
upper surface of the leaf, leaving the ribs. I never saw 
any until the summer of 1880, when a few appeared on 
one tree, a Pear. They ruined that tree, but did not 
extend. This year they have attacked all the Pear trees 
but one, and are pushing on to the Plums and Cherries. 
What are they ? IIow are they to be got rid of ? 1 have 
tried syringing with salt and water without the least 
effect. I have tried strong Tobacco water, and they seem 
rather to like It. I washed one tree clean with much 
trouble, and in two days it was worse than ever. They have 
black shiny skins, and are not only mischievous, but dis¬ 
gusting. It is curious that there are none out of my 
garden. Trees growing on the other side of the wall are 
quite clear of them.—P. V., Streatham. 

10300. — Shrubs for border.—I have a border 
33 feet long by 3J feet wide, in front of Beech fence, 
western aspect, soil light. The last two seasons I have 
tried to grow the ordinary bedding plants, but they have 
been a failure, as the border is so infested with snails ; 
and although 1 have destroyed a great quantity, there 
appears no diminution in numbers. 1 planted some 
choice Chrysanthemums, but they are completely 
stripped of leaves, so am thinking of Ailing it with shrubs. 
Would some reader of Gardening inform as to what 
would be the best to plant ? I was thinking a few Law¬ 
son's Cypress and Herberts Darwini, with a few flowering 
shrubs, would be suitable. 1 should like something that 
would not overhang the Grass when in full growth. Any 
Information as to sorts, and how to arrange them in 
borders, would oblige. 1 might say the Beech fence is 
5 feet in height.—W. P. B. 

10301.—Peaches dropping before ripe.—Would 
some reader kindly tell me the reason of my Peaches 
falling before they are ripe or coloured ? The house is a 
half curvilinear, facing west. It gets about eight hours' 
sun daily, but the border in which the trees are planted 
gets scarcely any sun, the pipes preventing it. The part 
where the house is lies low, and almost level with a 
running stream of water, about thirty yards distant 
from it. I thought about giving the border a good top- 
dressing in autumn to encourage the roots upwards. 
Should X be doing right by so doing ? I have Nectarines 
in the same house, but these do not fall until they are 
ripe and well coloured. I might mention that the Peaches 
are very large, and the trees had probably too many to 
carry. Those that did ripen had neither flavour nor 
colour.—H. B. 

10302.—Insects on Pansies. —I obtained a quantity 
of cuttings from named sorts early in July, which! placed 
in shallow boxes in compost of loam, common sand, and 
stable manure—the last possibly not quite rotten. The 
bulk of the cuttings have struck, and are making growth, 
but I find on most of them a number of small red flies or 
insects. What had I better do to rid the plants of these ? 
The plants are in boxes out-of-doors. Had I better trans¬ 
plant them into the open ground? I thought to keep the 
plants in the boxes through the winter, as they would 
then be more easily protected from frost.— Ariel. 

103.13.— Berry-bearing shrubs.—I have a garden 
that lies well to the sun, with a grass oentre, about 50 
yards long and 24 yards wide, round three sides of which 
are borders 5 yards wide planted with shrubs and ever¬ 
greens. Among these I want to introduce some early- 
flowering and berry-bearing shrubs, such as the Mezereou, 
Ac. Will someone give a list of suitable plants that 
will grow in the position named in a moderately-well 
sheltered part of Cheshire ?—D. D. 

10304.—Sawdust manure.—Will any readers of 
Gardening kindly give their experience of the use of 
sawdust manure from the stable In the culture of 
flowers, and also of vegetables ? It is proposed to use 
It when one-year-old in a garden which has had but 
little attention for many years in the midland counties, 
where the soil is chiefly clay. Very soutradictory opinions 
have been advanced as to the benefit of the above saw¬ 
dust dressing, except for farm land.—M. E. B. 

10305.—How to preserve Geraniums during 
winter.—I have a number of Geraniums in my garden 
which I should much like to keep alive through the 
winter. Will any reader kindly tell me the best method 
of doing so? Unfortunately I possess no greenhouse, 
frame, Ac., but there is a small, dry, dark cellar avail¬ 
able. Could I keep them there—IX so, how ? Any infor¬ 
mation on the subject will be greatly valued by— 
Machen. 

10306.—Material for binding round pipes.—My 
conservatory is heated with 4 inch pipes, and the distance 
is about 40 yards from the boiler, the pipes running under 
ground. I find In the winter I cannot keep the heat 
above 50°. What would be the beat material to use 
round the pipes, ss the cause is, no doubt, the cold air 
from the earth, no protection being round the pipes. I 


know there is a material, but cannot just remember the 
name.—RowLEr. 

10307.— Large Celery.— I am told ammoniai applied 
in proper proportion to Celery plants, produces euormous 
heads. Is this so ? If it is so. in what quantity should 
the ammonia be given, and can it be applied when the 
plants have had their first earthing up? Any practical 
hints as to producing large Celery would be most wel¬ 
come.—H. F. R. 

10308. — Green-fly on Cucumbers. — I have a 
frame, 12 feet by 7 feet, a good brick one. I planted it 
with Cucumber plants in good soil and half spent manure, 
and they were in good health and well set with fruit till 
the greenfly got on them and destroyed them. What is 
the cause of greenfly getting on them ? I have had them 
destroyed thus for two years.—J. W. B. 

10309.—Wintering Salvia patens.—Will someone 
kindly tell me the best way to preserve Salvia patens 
through the winter ? Would tne plants be beat left in 
pots, and kept in a cold frame or greenhouse only heated 
sufficiently to keep out frost, or should they be shaken 
out, the tops cut off, and the roots kept from frost, and 
started again in spring ?—C. M. B. 

10310.—Plants damping Off- —Would some reader 
of Gardening be kind enough to tell me what is the 
cause of my plants damping off, Fuchsias, Geraniums, 
Pelargoniums, Ac. ? The plants are In a span-roofed 
greenhouse, well exposed. A flue goes along the centre ; 
concrete floor. Any information will much oblige.— 
J. M. 

10311— Planting Strawberries —What are the 
best crops to plant Strawberries after? If after Onions, 
would it be advisable to manure the ground before plant¬ 
ing the Strawberries, and does it matter planting the 
Strawberries in an Onion bed that haa entirely been de¬ 
stroyed by wireworm? Will the wireworm harm the 
Strawberries ?— Uncas. 

10312.—Ash trees In shrubberies.—I have been 
told that the Ash is a bad tree to leave near a shrubbery, 
or in a strip of plantation, since its roots travel far and 
close to the surface of the ground, and thus rob all 
neighbouring trees and shrubs. Is this the case?— 

10313.—Outdoor Vines.—I should be glad if some¬ 
one would give' me instructions how to manage a 
neglected Vine growing out-of-doors on a wall facing 
south ; it bears but little fruit, and that is very small, and 
too late for ripening. I want instructions for winter, 
spring, and summer management.—A mateur. 

10314. — Manuring Araucarias.— I have two 
Araucarias which have been twenty years In their pre¬ 
sent situation, which is on a dry and exposed slope. 
They are now making small growth and losing their 
lower branches. Ought I to mulch or dig deep round 
the roots and put in fresh manure ?—J. W. X. 

10316.—Rhododendrons from seed — I should be 
glad for Information as to when Rhododendron seed 
should be gathered and sown, and if it should be sown in 
heat; also if the choice varieties can be obtained from 
seed in the same way as the commoner sorts.— Constant 
Subscriber. 

10316.—Slugs and grubs.—My garden is infested 
with slugs, wlreworms, and grubs. Gaslime. quicklime, 
salt, and soot are recommended. Which is best? Must 
all plants be taken up before the dressing is applied? 
Could any of the materials named be used iu a Vine 
border ?—M. 

10317.—Roses for walls.— I want to train some 
climbing Roses over the walls of my house, and should 
be glad of some information as to time of planting cut¬ 
tings, best kinds, and probable price. Are the varieties 
of Ayrshire Rose and R. sempervlrens good ?— H. N. C. 

10318. —Oleander not blooming. — How can I 
make my Oleander blossom ? It has had buds on for a year, 
but now they are dropping off ? It has had plenty of 
moisture, and stands in the greenhouse; it has grown 
very much this year, and looks quite healthy.— 
E. C. M. 

10319.—Margruerit38, Petunias, and Salvia 
patens.—Will some reader kindly say how these can 
be successfully grown from cuttings? When is the proper 
time to take them ? A few hints as to the treatment and 
heat required will greatly oblige.—A. 

10320. — Cucumbers in frames. —Will someone 
kindly inform me the best method to treat Cucumbers 
in a frame ? I have plenty of fruit on the plants, but 
they get to a length of about 1& or 2 inches and then 
wither.—C. T. 

10321.—Fuchsia fulgens.—How ought I to treat a 
Fuchsia fulgens, which Is now a large plant and in full 
bloom ? It has grown very much during the last month, 
and has got too large for the place which it now occupies. 
—H. T. 

10322.—Thinning Vegetable Marrows.—Is it 
advisable to thin out the growths of Vegetable Marrows 
in the same way as Cucumbers are generally treated ? 
Mine seem to be going to leaves instead of producing 
fruit—A. B. 

10323.— Sowing Sweet Briers — Will some reader 
kindly tell me how to collect the seeds of Sweet Brier, 
also how and when to sow them ? Any other particulars 
would oblige.—B rier. 

10324.—Preserving Ashberries.— Can anyone 
tell me how to preserve Mountain Ashberries—to keep 
them from turning black and shrivelling up ?— U NCA3. 

10325.—Myrtles not blooming.—How can I make 
my Myrtles bloom? They blossomed twice in one 
summer about three years ago, but not since.— E. C. M. 

10326.—Clematis and Virginia Creeper.—How 
are these propagated, and when is the best time?— 
ARIEL. 

10327.—Clipping Yew hedges.—When Is the right 
time to clip \ ew hedges in the West Midland counties ? 


Vol. I. Gardening " is ont of print, and we are 
therefore unable to further supply either separate oopies 
or bound 'lolumes. 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sbpt. 15, 1883. 


318 


POULTRY. 


Making hens lay in winter.—I read 
in a recent issue of Gardening a new method 
of making hens lay in winter, given in a French 
newspaper by a certain M. Gainot. People will 
believe a great deal, but this is rather too bad. 
“ On the 16th of November hot dung is put into 
the poultry-house, enough to cover the floor 12 
inches deep. This is beaten down firmly and 
left till December 1. Then every day for a 
month the layer of dung is supplied with a fresh 
layer i to 6 inches deep.” Therefore, on the 1st 
of January the layer of dung must be 13 feet 
deep, not taking into consideration the first 
layer. Now the general system of poultry 
keeping in France allows of but small houses, 
and a large number of fowls packed in it for 
mutual warmth. Fancy these poor animals on the 
top of 13 feet of dung passing the long winter 
nights. The stench of such a place not cleaned 
out for two months 1 Our hen-houses are cleaned 
out thoroughly twice a week, and even this is too 
little in summer. My opinion about this method 
is that very few fowls would be alive after a few 
days. Now, in one of the poultry-farms I visited 
on the continent they had a large house—60 feet 
by 26 feet, and proportionately high. In the 
middle of it I saw some fresh horse dung and litter, 
covering part of the floor a few inches deep. It 
was brought in from the stable quite fresh, but 
every few days, at least twice a week, the old 
dung was carried away. I thought it dirty at 
first, but, talking it over with the manager, I 
must acknowledge that it gave a pleasant heat, 
no smell to speak of, and little trouble. But 
between this plan of proceeding and the 13 feet 
there is a great difference. I hope other people 
will give their ideas on the subject.— Manager, 
St. Leonards Poultry Farm, Ringrrood. 

White Leghorns.— Leghorn. —A cockerel 
mated with three pullets, all pure White Leg¬ 
horns, ought certainly to produce pure white 
chicken, and not black or speckled. You state 
there are Black Spanish and Houdans in an 
adjoining run, separated only by a*wire partition. 
We do not hold with your suggestion, that the 
sight of these latter have had any influence on 
the laying Leghorn hens, but we are inclined to 
think that by some means they have been allowed 
to get together, and this mesalliance has pro¬ 
duced the marked chicken in question. We 
must remind you also that hens after having 
been running with a cock of another breed, often 
show the effect of such in their eggs when 
hatched, although they have been separated from 
him for weeks or even months, and confined with 
a male bird of their own breed for the same 
period. It is not unlikely that before the season 
for hatching arrived, you were not very particular 
whether the two varieties came into contact or 
not. Again, perhaps you have not possessed the 
pen of Leghorns long, and the mischief was done 
before you received them. Another cause might 
be that they are not pure Leghorns, although 
quite white, and the objectionable colours in the 
chicken are but the reproduction of some old 
cross—maybe, two or three generations back. 
Leghorns are certainly of the true Spanish type, 
but they possess one great advantage over that 
variety, which consists in their great hardiness. 
For this we have to thank American breeders, 
who imported them from Europe and greatly 
improved them in every respect. There is no 
doubt that the climate of America also had 
something to do with making them the robust 
fowls they now are. The only thing they lack 
is size, but we hope to see fanciers in future pay 
more attention to this point.— Andalusian. 

Size of run. —.7. W. T .—A grass run for 
thirty hens should not be less than a quarter of 
an acre, and the house should be 8 feet or 10 feet 
square. It is a pity the run opens to the north, 
but still you need not despair. See that you 
keep a good hardy sort, such as the Brahma or 
Plymouth Rock, and provide a good shelter, such 
as an open shed, to protect them from wind and 
rain.— Andalusian. 

Broody bens.— T. C. C. —The older the hen 
becomes, and the later it is in the breeding or 
laying season, the oftener will her desire to sit 
come on, and, as a consequence, the fewer the 
number of eggs at a stretch. Brahmas are 
certainly rather fond of becoming broody, but 
if taken from the nest as soon as discovered to 
be in that state, and confined under a coop and 
fed on low diet, they a*e soon cured. The great 

Digitized by CjOOglC 


thing is to take them in hand at once.—A nda¬ 
lusian. 

To make fowls lay In winter—Will the writer 
on the above subject kindly state the height of his fowl- 
house, for, according to calculation, he puts over 12 feet 
of dung into it? How does he arrange hia perches? — 
Subscriber. 

George Downs .—Not at all uncommon. 


BEES. 

SEASONABLE NOTES. 

Taking time has again arrived, and myriads of 
bees will be destroyed during the next few weeks, 
over the horrible brimstone pit, by cottagers 
who have not yet been induced to adopt the 
more humane practice of driving their bees in 
order to obtain the honey. Where the “ brim¬ 
stone pit performance ” is still in vogue, it 
would be a humane act if an advanced apiarian 
could prevail upon cottagers to let him drive 
their bees, and unite the driven bees to his own 
stocks. 

Driving. —It is well known among bee¬ 
keepers that at swarming time bees are very 
little disposed to sting This is because they are 
gorged with honey, having wisely (immediately 
before leaving the hive) taken sufficient food to 
last them three days, and so enable them to 
start fair in their new home, and in this gorged 
condition will seldom sting, unless actually in¬ 
jured. If, therefore, before lifting a hive we 
wish to operate upon, we blow a little 
smoke into the entrance and strike the sides of 
the hive, the bees become alarmed and excited, 
and immediately fill themselves with honey, 
and we then can do anything we like with them ; 
and so we smoke the hive we wish to drive, and 
turn it up, with the bees staring one in the face. 
We then take an empty skep and place over it, 
bringing the edges together at the point toward 
which the combs run; we then push a skewer 
through the edge of the empty skep into the 
one below, so forming a hinge, and fix a strip of 
wood with nails in the ends (if driving irons are 
not used) on either side, to keep the empty skep 
up, like an open lid. We then rap upon the 
sides of the stock hive, and the rapping being 
continued a loud buzzing is soon heard, and the, 
bees are seen rushing up helter-skelter into the 
empty skep. Should we wish to capture the 
queen, sharp watch must be kept, and she can 
mostly be secured as she luns up in the crowd. 
Thus the hive of honey is obtained without 
destroying the bees, and the honey unflavoured 
with brimstone, consequently more saleable 
than that from smothered hives. 

All this is so simple that anyone at all 
acquainted with the management of bees can 
easily practise it, and it leaves no excuse to the 
ancient bee-keeper for destroying his bees. 
This is called open driving. In close driving 
(which is preferred by the timid) the upper skep 
is so placed that the rims of both meet, and a 
slip of cloth is tied round the junction to pre¬ 
vent the escape of the bees in their upward 
march ; but open driving is to be preferred. 
The driven bees may be fed up quickly so that 
they become well established before cold 
weather sets in, or they may be united to 
another stock. 

Uniting. —Success in uniting much depends 
upon the bees having the same scent, and being 
gorged with honey. Bees know each other by 
scent, so that if we sprinkle them with minted 
syrup it prevents them discovering which are 
strangers, and so no fighting takes place; we 
therefore smoke and turn up the skep contain¬ 
ing the driven bees, and sprinkle them with thin 
syrup scented with peppermint, we then smoke 
the bees to which we wish to join them, turn 
up and sprinkle them also with the scented 
syfup, and prop up the edge of the hive. 
We then throw the driven bees against its 
entrance upon a newspaper or sheet, and they at 
once enter and become peacefully united. 
Another way is to shake the driven bees over 
the combs of the stock hive, which is then re¬ 
placed on its stand and propped up a little to 
prevent the crushing of the bees that are run¬ 
ning over its edges. With a bar-frame hive the 
operation is still more simple, as the bees can 
be shaken out of the skep on to the top of the 
bars, and the quilt gently replaced. If possible, 
the queen should be removed from the driven 
bees, although if she be left the two queens will 
fight, and the weaker be destroyed. The stock 
to be driven, and that to which it is intended to 


unite it, are previously brought gradually to¬ 
gether. Three feet per day is the greatest dis¬ 
tance a hive must be moved If moved more 
than this many bees will be lost by failing to 
recognise their home on their return from the 
fields. S. S. G. 

Boxrvorth. 

Management of driven bees.—“ H. J.” 

will not find three lots of driven bees too many 
to put into each bar-frame hive ; many will dio 
off during the next two months. It is rather 
late for feeding up for comb building; the best 
plan would, therefore, be to transfer combs of 
honey and brood from the straw skeps to the 
bar-frame hives, giving not less than twenty 
pounds of sealed honeycomb to each hive, or feed¬ 
ing up to that weight if the combs do not contain 
sufficient stores. The bees will winter better on 
old combs than on newly made ones, as sealed 
stores in the old combs last much longer, 
besides which the bees will much more readily 
fill old combs with syrup (if fed) than they will 
build new at this time of year.—S. S. G. f 
Boxrvorth. 

Beeswax.— Will someone kindly tell me how to run 
honeycomb into nice cakes of beeswax ? My bees have 
done well this summer, and I wish to make some good 
beeswax, but do not know how to go about it.—V era. 


BIRDS. 

Mule breeding.— FringUla .—If the cock 
goldfinch is a this year’s young bird, usually 
called a grey pate, it may be in the same cage 
with the hen canary all the winter; separated 
from the hen at the end of March, but remain¬ 
ing in sight of her until May, when they may 
be placed together again with materials for 
nesting. As early in the year as Dandelion 
flowers can be obtained, give him some daily. 
Grey pates seldom breed with a canary the first 
year. If he is now a full-coloured bird, keep 
him in a cage by himself, in sight of the hen, 
feeding with Dandelion flowers in the spring, 
and putting with the hen early in May. In¬ 
experienced mule breeders had better commence 
with finches that have been bred from. I have 
for some years bred mules, and this year have 
had seven goldfinches up for breeding, but only 
succeeded in getting three to breed. Linnets 
are the best for a beginner. I never knew a 
young linnet that would not breed the first 
year.— J. H. Verrall. 

Aviary in cool greenhouse. — Can 

any reader inform me if it is possible to keep 
small birds, such as bullfinches, canaries, wax- 
bills, &c., in a cool greenhouse, heated from 
October to May by ordinary steam pipes? I 
have an aviary in my greenhouse, which is 20 feet 
by 9 feet, well ventilated, the temperature re¬ 
maining from 60° at night to 80° in the sun. 
The cage is large and airy. I feed on canary, 
hemp, and millet seeds, the birds seem healthy 
and bright, but every now and then a bird turns 
sick and dies, and I cannot conceive the cause. 
Any practical advice would be gratefully re¬ 
ceived.— Aviary. 

Rod mites in birdcages. — Wash the cage and 
dry it thoroughly. Then saturate all the wood work with 
sweet oil, and pour oil into all the crevices. This has 
been found effectual, and cannot injure the birds.—R ed 
Mite. 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 


Black currant vinegar.—On one quart 
of black currants picked from the stalks, pour 
one pint of vinegar. Let stand nine days, then 
squeeze. To every pint of juice add one 
pound of loaf sugar, boil twenty minutes, and 
bottle when cold. When required for a refresh¬ 
ing drink, add cold water to taste; and for colds 
or hoarseness, mix with it an equal quantity of 
hot water, and take when going to bed.—0. H. 

Raspberry acid.— Put six pounds of rasp¬ 
berries into a pan, mix two-and-half ounces of 
tartaric acid in one quart of spring water, pour 
this upon the fruit, let it stand twenty-four 
hours, then strain through a sieve; keep the 
liquid clear, add one-and-half pounds loaf sugar 
to each pint of clear liquor, stir frequently until 
quite dissolved, then bottle and keep in a cool 
place.—C. H. 

Preserving Vegetable Marrows.— Vegetable 
Marrows can be preserved in pieces by putting powdered 
loaf sugar to it over night; bring it gradually to the 
boiling point next day, simmer a few minutes. Repeat 
this boiling three successive days ; powdered ginger 
improves the flavour if'added to it—C onstant Sub- 
sq&mER.— _ __ Ar .. , » x 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. V. SEPTEMBER 22, 1883. No. 237. 


THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE. 

Orohida. 

It in not at all unlikely that the taste of 
the amateur who possesses but a cold green¬ 
house may turn in the direction of the beauti¬ 
ful and curious Orchids ; and I would here say 
that we cold-house gardeners should not be 
content with growing merely ordinary well- 
known plants but rather should be always on 
the watch to add something new and interesting 
to our collections. In the cultivation of hardy 
terrestrial Orchids, we have a tolerably large 
field open to us for experiment. Of these there 
are some which are quite as lovely as their air¬ 
feeding congeners of the tropical forests—to wit, 
the 

Disas 

of Table Mountain, and some of the Cypripe- 
diums of Siberia and North America. The quaint 
pitchers of Sarracenia and Darlingtonia rival in 
singularity those of Nepenthes, and are quite 
as interesting. The purple helmets of Bletia 
and the handsome spikes of Orchis foliosa are 
as striking in their way as many of the highly 
prized Orchids grown in the East Indian or the 
Mexican house, while we can study nature's 
mimicry in many a singular and rare European 
species, beginning with our own bee and fly 
Orchis, so hard to transplant witli success from 
their native haunts. To grow and bloom a fine 
panful of Disa grandiflora is a triumph; but 
note — cold house gardener, that it is a 
triumph accorded to cultivation in a cold and 
not iu a hot house ; for failure has occurred again 
and again from attempts to coddle this child of 
the mountain in too high a temperature. I 
quote from a paper by Mr. James O'Brien, who 
is an undoubted authority. He says, “ Knowing 
that they did not require heat, two-thirds of the 
bulk of Disa grandiflora were left in the un- 
heated house, and the result was that they passed 
the winter in from 6° to 11° degrees of frost, 
frozen for weeks as hard as frost could make 
them, in better condition than those in a cool 
heated house, and flowered beautifully—so satis- 
lactory, indeed, was the experiment, that I shall 
rever again feel justified in placing these plants 
in heat while I have a quiet, sheltered, unheated 
house in which to put them.” 

Their culture in the open air has even been 
recommended, for Dr. Wallace, of Colchester, 
has written: “ I have every belief that the 
Disas would grow well out of doors in the south 
of England by the side of a running stream.” 
Whether the experiment has ever been tried I 
do not know. Probably the plants are too 
expensive for cultivators of them to wish to run 
annecessarv risks, but if this idea be correct, 
Disas would surely succeed in a cold house 
planted out with Sarracenias, Cypripediums, and 
other plants of a like nature, if the natural 
conditions could, in some degree, be imitated. 
Most likely, however, pot culture would be 
better within reach of the greater number of 
amateur gardeners. The cold frame, which 
would suit this magnificent plant, would serve 
equally well for various hardy species of 
Cypeipedium, 

of which our rare native yellow-flowered C. cal- 
ceolus is a type. There are several hardy species 
of this widely-spread family, which can be suc¬ 
cessfully cultivated in the open air, and yet are 
no less beautiful than those which can only be 
rrown in heat. It may be well to name a few of 
'•he most desirable for pot culture. C. acaule is 
i dwarf species, whose native habitat is in 
N’orth American woods. Though not more than 
3 or 4 inches high, its flower is as large as that 
»f many of the heat-loving species, and is rose- 
coloured. A pure white variety is known, bnt 
aa scarcely be said to bo in cultivation, as it is 
'«y rare. This species is not so free-growing as 
C. epectabile, another lovely North American 
'fvcies, which will grow and thrive, and give 
abundance of its handsome white and pink 
fio»ers under proper treatment. It likes partial 
sbsde under artificial conditions of culture. 
This is the mocassin flower of the North Ameri- 



which have curious spiral petals. This species 
seems to prefer a more sunny exposure than the 
former, and is scarcely so easy to grow. The 
same may be said of C. macranthum, a very 
handsome Siberian species, whose rose-coloured 
(lowers bear a singular resemblance to that 
curious sea creature, the octopus. It is quite 
hardy, however, and is well worth a trial, after 
successful cultivation of other species, more 
amenable, has been attained to. 

This class of plant succeeds best grown in 
large pans placed along the front wall of a cold 
bricked frame. The main point in their culture 
seems to be to induce healthy gTowth of foliage 
in order to ensure good bloom. Imported roots 
have, as a rule, some remains of the peaty vege¬ 
table mould in which they naturally grow ad¬ 
hering to them, and this serves as a guide to the 
soil in which they should be potted, i.e„ leaf- 
mould, with sandy peat, surfaced with living 
Sphagnum Moss, which seems exactly to meet 
their requirements. Cypripediums, as I have 
seen them growing in Canadian swamps, have 
their matted roots spread about in a moist 
spongy mass of mossy, decayed vegetable mould, 
which can at no time be dry, since it is covered 
by a great depth of snow daring winter, which 
acts as a blanket for seven or eight months in 
the year, while their foliage and flowers have 
the benefit of an almost tropical sunshine during 
the time of growth. But it is difficult to give 
any plant the oxapt natural conditions under 
which it is found in its native habitat. We can 
only approximate our system of culture to them, 
as far as may be. 

Bletia Hyacinthina 

is another handsome purple-flowered Orchid, 
which is equally hardy. It rests naturally 
during the winter, like the Cypripediums, and 
succeeds under similar treatment. In the same 
way, some of the Australian species of terres¬ 
trial Orchids have been successfully cultivated 
in a cold frame, eg., Diuris aurea and aurea 
maculata and D. lilacina, which are all hand¬ 
some plants not commonly met with. All the 
above would be likely to succeed best planted 
out in a cold house, where they will flower well. 
A most interesting glass garden could be ar¬ 
ranged with such choice plants as the above, 
associated with Trilliums, Arum triphyllum, and 
others, which, though perfectly hardy, yet look 
very different when grown in the open air in 
our English gardens than in their native luxu¬ 
riance. This is mainly owing, I should imagine, 
to the lack of the intense summer heat of their 
natural climate, combined with want of shelter, 
conditions which might be supplied in a well- 
ventilated and shaded glasshouse. Sarracenia 
purpurea and S. flava are singular North Ameri¬ 
can bog plants (which, by the way, botanists 
have not yet “ placed ” as to their affinities), 
popularly known by the somewhat inexplicable 
name of Side-saddle Flowers in their native 
localities, which would thrive admirably under 
such sheltering treatment. To these might 
be added Orchis folioSa and some species of 
Marsh Orchis, which would luxuriate in their 
company. A good collection of 

British Orchids 

would be full of interest and worth a journey to 
see. Living as I do in a locality famous for 
these curious and attractive plants, it is sadly 
evident that they are becoming year by year less 
abundant, especially some of the rarer kinds; 
and it would be very desirable if it could be 
accomplished to perpetuate these by successful 
cultivation. Common species, such as O. mas- 
cula and 0. maculata, thrive well in almost any 
garden border, and, moreover, increase so as to 
form fine clumps. Not so, however, with the 
rarer Ophrys apifera and 0. muscifera and others. 
The difficulty consists chiefly in getting the 
tubers, which are commonly dug up while the 
plant is in flower, thus checking the formation 
of the new tuber upon which depends the growth 
of the next season. Tubers of these and of many 
of the handsome and interesting Cape and Euro¬ 
pean species of Ophrys and Satyrium can easily 
be obtained of some of our best nurserymen, 
who will supply all needful directions as to soil 
and culture. Tftough they are hardy, it is hardly 


safe to trust such plants to the open border 
therefore they may be more appropriately culti¬ 
vated in a frame, whence they can be removed 
to the conservatory during the flowering period, 
and will always attract attention and interest. 

Thus it will be seen that even Orchid growing, 
to a certain extent, is not wholly denied to the 
cold house gardener. 

Summer Flowers. 

If we enter an ordinary conservatory during the 
summer, we shall probably find there but few 
flowering plants which are outside of the capa¬ 
bilities of the cold-house gardener. Possibly, the 
beautiful crimson blossoms of a Tacsocia may 
depend from the roof, or. In some cases, hot¬ 
house Bowers and Orchids may have been trans¬ 
ferred to cooler quarters to display their charms 
for the time being. But, as a rule, Abutilons 
and Pelargoniums, Fuchsias and Begonias, with 
Colens and such like well-known decorative 
plants, make up the sum of the Bummer tenants 
of most greenhouses. It. is a fact, therefore, that 
the chief difference between the heated and the 
cold-plant house consists in its totally distinct 
capabilities for winter decoration. We cannot 
grow hot-house flowers, nor can we force plants 
into bloom out of season, without the aid of arti¬ 
ficial heat; but in summer there need be no per¬ 
ceptible difference between a warm greenhouse, 
in which, by the way, heat is then usually turned 
off, and one that is unheated. Both should be 
bright and gay with well cultivated, healthy 
plants. 

It is exceedingly probable that the amateur’s 
fancy may incline to the cultivation of florists’ 
flowers. The first of these which naturally occurs 
to the mind in connection with cold-house gar¬ 
dening, is the 

Auricula. 

To grow these beautiful flowers in perfection— 
I refer more especially to the show varieties— 
shelter is absolutely necessary, while they abhor 
coddling; so that the well-ventilated, unheated 
greenhouse would seem to present exactly the 
best conditions for their successful culture. 
With these (as indeed with most florists’ flowers), 
it is indispensable to have a small house or frame 
specially devoted to them, as they require dis¬ 
tinct treatment from other miscellaneous plants. 
But this might be no obstacle, as no more en¬ 
thusiastic florists exist than Auricula growers 
and exhibitors. It is not the intention here to 
enter into cultural directions, but simply to 
suggest some of the possibilities within reach of 
the cold-house gardener. 

Calceolarias and Cinerarias, 
again, are suitable for the cold house, only re¬ 
quiring frost to be excluded in extremity of 
weather. These plants are so persistently 
attacked by green-fly that the great points in 
their successful culture are coolness and mois¬ 
ture, a hot, dry atmosphere being fatal to them. 
Even in winter all that is right to do in the way 
of heating is to prevent the thermometer from 
falling below 35°. Seed thinly sown in pans in 
an unheated greenhouse in May and June, the 
seedlings pricked out when large enougli to 
handle, and gradually shifted on into single 
pots, the young plants transferred as soon a9 
possible to a good cold frame in a north aspect, 
where they can have abundance of ventilation, 
with care in watering and attention to cleanli¬ 
ness from blight—the shifting process being 
repeated without neglect until the plants are in 
large pots—removal in autumn to an airy, light 
position in the greenhouse, from which you are 
prepared, by some temporary means, to exclude 
frost when necessary. Such are the main 
features in the cultivation of these beautiful 
florists' flowers, to which heat is destruction. 

Pelargoniums 

require similarly cool treatment. They only 
need to be kept just growing, and no more, 
during the winter. A light position near the 
glass, where they can stand without being 
crowded, and an atmosphere kept moderately 
dry, with plenty of ventilation whenever it is 
possible, and exemption from frost in hard 
weather, are all the cultural conditions required 
at that season. 






320 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sept. 22 , 1883 . 


Fuchsias 

give even leas trouble, for all they require when 
their blooming is over, and they have been cut 
in, is to be stored away, during winter, in any 
convenient and available position, and kept 
nearly, though not quite, dry until the buds 
begin once more to push. 

Carnations and Picotees 

are valuable additions to our list of plants suit¬ 
able for cold-house culture, and should by no 
means be neglected. The difficulty (and, to my 
mind, the disadvantage) of growing such florists’ 
flowers, unless indeed space is no object, is that 
a separate house, or portion of a house, for each 
is almost a sine qua non in their successful cul¬ 
tivation ; but to those who desire to grow them 
they present no obstacles on account of re¬ 
quiring heat. The occasional use of the heat 
radiator, or some such simple and temporary con¬ 
trivance, will answer every purpose, and indeed 
better than a more elaborate apparatus would do. 

Being myself one of the “ omnivorous ama¬ 
teurs ” before mentioned, I prefer a more mis¬ 
cellaneous collection, and I contrive to grow 
most of the half haidy greenhouse plants ordi¬ 
narily met with. Thus, Salvia gesnerajfiora, 
Cytisus, &c., begin to bloom with me in March, 
not very early perhaps, but time enough to be 
very welcome for spring decoration. Abutilons 
flower throughout summer until late autumn. 
A few choice Cacti, housed during winter in a con¬ 
venient window, give a succession of their glorious 
blossoms. Streptocarpus biflorus is never tired 
of producing its pale mauve flowers, so charming 
for cutting. But, perhaps, the glory of my small 
conservatory during the summer months con¬ 
sists in the fine 

Gloxinias, 

which, with the aid of an ordinary Cucumber 
frame to start them, I find are perfectly 
amenable to cold-house culture. Their treat¬ 
ment is very simple. The tubers are shaken 
out of the pots in which they have been 
wintered, repotted, and sunk in the hotbed, to 
start them into growth. Here they must be 
carefully watched to prevent their sensitive 
leaves from being scorched, and carefully 
watered. When the leaves have attained a fair 
size, and the buds begin to show, remove to a 
cold greenhouse, where they can remain until in 
flower, after which they can be taken to the con¬ 
servatory, where they will continue to bloom for 
many weeks. After flowering, they must be care¬ 
fully treated in order to ripen their growth; and 
when the leaves have dropped, the pots may be 
laid on their side in any convenient warm cup¬ 
board for their period of rest. The tubers 
should not be allowed to become too dry, or they 
will shrivel. A good watering once, or at most 
twice, during the winter will be amply sufficient 
to keep them plump. I believe, but I have not 
yet tried it sufficiently to speak positively upon 
the point, that Gloxinias might be started (a 
little later in the season perhaps) in a close cold 
frame where the pots could be sunk in tan or 
leaves, or any gentle heating material, though 
their blooming would, no doubt, be delayed to a 
somewhat later period. With Achimenes, the 
case is different. They require much more heat 
to bring them to perfection, and though I have 
tried them year after year, the success in bloom¬ 
ing them has not been satisfactory. 

A very useful appendage to my greenhouse is 
a small propagating case, made by a village 
carpenter, and heated by a lamp. Here I raise 
early seeds and cuttings by the aid of the gentle 
bottom heat it supplies. In the summer the 
lamp is dispensed with, as the temperature is 
sufficiently raised by sun heat, and I find it an 
invaluable help in preparing for the summer and 
winter furnishing of both garden and conserva¬ 
tory. Ashmore. 


Destroying slugs in gardens — I have 
noticed many queries, and various replies thereto, 
on the above subject, but I question whether 
any of the methods given (by means of soot, 
lime, salt Sec.) are either so simple or so 
efficacious as the plan I have adopted this season. 
Last year we were greatly plagued with these 
pests, and I lost entirely several valuable plants 
through their depredations. This spring I 
obtained a pair of call ducks, which were turned 
loose in the garden, and accommodated with a 
tub of water 2 feet in diameter sunk in the 
ground to clean themselves in. After a short 
time they bocamd quite fv <■ eberfstomed to 


the place. Since then the slugs have been 
effectually subdued, and I now rarely see such a 
thing. The ducks being light, and having such 
small feet, do no damage in the garden, though 
they have the run of a large and valuable col¬ 
lection of alpine plants. I consider them very 
ornamental on the lawn and among the shrubs, 
and they require very little food, merely a 
handful or two of grain thrown in water once or 
twice a day according to the weather. The 
duck made a nest among the Rhubarb and laid 
fourteen eggs, from which she hatched out in 
due time fourteen pretty ducklings.—F. W. 
Stansfield, Sale, Cheshire. 


VEGETABLES. 

TURNIPS AND THEIR CULTURE. 
Turnips deserve and generally get a place in 
gardens of all sizes. Cooks use them in a great 
variety of ways, and cottagers find them valuable 
at all times. Therefore it is important that only 
the best varieties be grown, and such as will 
keep up a constant succession from the beginning 
to the end of the year. This may easily be 
accomplished by following a few simple direc¬ 
tions. 

The American Strafleaf is an excellent 
variety for sowing as a first crop very early in 
spring. Its leaves are small, and consequently 
the plants may be grown very closely together. 
As may be seen, it is flat, and not very deep in 
the flesh, but it is tender and sweet, and should 
never be omitted from the list of spring Turnips. 
Various varieties or types of the Strapleaf may 
be found in cultivation, bpt the accompanying 
figure of it represents the true variety. 

The Snowball is another fine Turnip for 
early use. It is not quite so early as the pre¬ 
ceding, but should be grown as a succession to 
it, or as what is generally termed a second early. 
It is larger than the Strapleaf, and to grow it 
well it must have more space than that kind. 
The true variety well merits the name “ Snow¬ 
ball," as both inside and out it is very white. 

Tiie early red-topped Munich is not un¬ 
like the Strapleaf in shape, but differs widely in 
colour, as it is only white below and purple on 
the top. The flesh, however, is of that pure 
white colour which is so much desired, and of 
all varieties it is most suited for frame culture 
earlier in the season than any of the others can 
be had in the open air. It may also be grown as 
an early spring variety in the open, but in this 
respect its claims are not greater than the two 
kinds just named, and the place we shall give it 
is that of a frame Turnip, and I may say that a 
couple of lights of it well up in size early in 
April will be found to compare most favourably 
with any other vegetable to be found in the 
garden at that season, and very acceptable. 

Carter’s Jersey Lily.— This is a Turnip 
recently introduced to our gardens, and it has 
proved to be so handsome and valuable that I 
have no hesitation in giving it a place here 
amongst the best standard varieties. It may be 
described as a large Snowball. It possesses all 
the good qualities of that variety, with the ad¬ 
dition of being in prime condition for the table 
in a much larger size than Snowball. 

Golden Ball represents a different class of 
Turnips from any of the preceding, and it is one 
of the best of the yellow section. Many object 
to these Turnips, owing to their colour, but they 
are very hardy, remaining long tender in hot 
weather, and not easily injured by frost. They 
are also longer in “ bolting ” than any of 
the white kinds, and owing to this they are 
well suited for sandy or shallow soils in summer. 
In March last we sowed a small patch of Golden 
Ball, and it was only the other day the produce 
was cleared off the ground, and not one of the 
plants ever attempted to run to flower; no other 
kind would have been so long in doing this. 

The Jersey Navet was sown at the same 
time as Golden Ball to see what winter varieties 
would do in summer, but the Navet was in full 
bloom in June; therefore, nothing more need be 
said of it as a summer variety, but it has special 
claims as a winter sort. It is not unlike a large 
Carrot in form, and it grows in the same way. 
As the roots penetrate the ground to some depth, 
they are thus well out of the way of severe 
weather, and when grown for a winter supply it 
is seldom they are injured or fail. A deep soil 
suits this variety best, and where it is shallow it 
should not be grown. 


Chirk Castle Blackstone will meet all 
wants in winter. Of all Turnips this is our 
favourite winter sort, and I am sure all who 
grow it once will never be without it again. 
Sown in autumn, it keeps on swelling up to 
Christmas or longer, according to the weather, 
and it will remain sound and sweet until April. 
It is by no means an attractive looking kind, 
being very nearly black externally, but internally 
it is as white as snow, and is as tender as any 
of the spring-grown Turnips. 

Selection and soil. —As in the case of all 
vegetables, Turnips may be improved by selec¬ 
tion, but the mere multiplication of names is a 
mistake; no one variety of Turnip will give a 
choice supply for twelve months running. Seed 
of all kinds is cheap, and seasonable kinds 
should alone be grown. My classification is the 
red-topped Munich for March, Strapleaf for 
April and May, Snowball for June and July, 
Jersey Lily for August, September, and October, 
and Chirk Castle for November to March, varied, 
according to the inclination and circumstances 
of the cultivator, with Navet and Golden Ball. 
As exhibition varieties, none equals Snowball 
and Jersey Lily, and good, well-developed spot¬ 
less Turnips form no mean “ dish ” in a collec¬ 
tion of show vegetables, but it must not be for¬ 
gotten that having a good variety, or growing 
the best kinds, is not the whole secret of secu¬ 
ring the choicest roots in unlimited quantities. 
This can only be done through good cultivation, 
and Turnips will repay attention as well as any 



Golden Ball. 


other crop. Poor, gravelly soil will never produce 
tender, sweet roots. Well manured land seldom 
fails to bring forth good Turnips. It is, therefore, 
well to see that the soil has been well prepared 
forthem before sowing the seed. This applies to 
crops at all seasons. In spring the earliest should 
be sown on a favourable spot on a south border. 
The first time the soil is in good working order in 
March put the first seed in out-of-doors, and 
sowings may be made monthly from then until 
the end of August, putting each kind in to follow 
one another as arranged above. 

Culture. —Early in the season Turnips may 
form a first crop on the ground for the year; 
but later on, especially in the case of the winter 
ones, the seed may generally be sown on ground 
which has been cleared of Peas, Potatoes, or 
such like. In Bpring deep digging and plenty 
of manure suits them well, but in sowing after 
other crops, as suggested, manure is not often 
wanted and the soil need not be turned over; a 
hoeing and raking of the surface will suffice in 
most cases. Drills should be drawn not more 
tBttn 2 inches deep, and 1 foot apart is a good 
distance in spring, but 18 inches may be given 
to those that have to stand the winter. Turnip 
seed germinates freely ; it is rarely bad, and 
therefore thin sowing should be the rule. The 
young plants soon appear above ground, and in 
favourable weather they grow so quickly that it 
is almost necessary to begin thinning as soon as 
the plants can be taken hold of, as crowding has 
an injurious effect on them at first. It is a good 
plan to thin them all twice. At first they should 
be thinned out to 6 inches apart, and the second 
time every other one should be removed, which 
will leave the plants for the crop standing at 
1 foot apart or thereabouts. 

Snails are sometimes troublesome; they eat 
off the young plants, but a slight dustingof lime 
or soot generally prevents them from doing 
ranch harm, and dressings of the kind assist 
greatly in keeping away the grub and insects 



Sept. 22, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


321 


that often disfigure the roots. The Turnip fly, 
too, does not like coming in contact with soot 
or lime, and altogether a slight dustiDg of one 
or the other, or both of these, may be given to 
the plants in a young state, whether they are 
much in want of it or not. At all times the 
surface of the soil between the rows should be 
kept open and free from weeds, and this is best 
done by using the Dutch hoe frequently. So 
far this season has been a most favourable one 
for Turnips, as the predominence of rain and 
abserce of long periods of hot weather have 
suited them particularly well. In hot dry 
weather Turnips soon become bitter and 
stringy, and in this state they are far from good ; 
but by a little forethought and attention no one 
need ever be obliged to use such, as by sowing 
small patches frequently a constant supply of 
delicate roots may be secured. When many of 
them become ready for use together, part of them 
may be taken up and stored in a cool shed. They 
will keep longer there than they would do in the 
ground, but Turnips taken up too soon lose part 



Snowball. 


of their flavour ; therefore, they should always 
be left in growing quarters as long as possible. 
In winter some take up their Turnips and store 
them away like Beet or Carrots, but nothing is 
gained by doing that, and it should never be 
practised unless the weather is unusually severe. 
I would never store the Chirk Castle except for 
convenience, as it is rarely injured by frost, but 
in frosty or snowy weather it is sometimes diffi¬ 
cult to get them out of the ground. 

Forcing. —Turnips do not submit readily to 
forcing. A close house would ruin them before 
they were a fortnight old. Frames are the only 
places in which they can be treated properly. 
They must not be forced hard, as this causes 
them to run to leaf and flower without forming 
bulbs. The best way is to make up a very gentle 
hotbed in February or March. Place a frame 
and some rich soil on the top and sow the seed 
broadcast thinly. Give abundance of air as soon 
as the young plants can be seen, and never 
coddle them up with coverings or maintain a 
very close atmosphere unless the weather really 
demands it. As the plants increase in size, thin 
them out to a few inches apart, and the bulbs 
may be used as soon as they are the size of 
cricket balls. 

As an ARTIFICIAL manure for Turnips, 
nothing equals superphosphate. This may be 

Ga gle 


dug into the ground before sowing, or it may be 
sprinkled thinly in the drills when opened for 
the reception of the seed. J. M. 


10277.— Foroing Rhubarb.—" Monsieur ” 
enquires what is the best and most economical 
way of forcing Rhubarb from Christmas on¬ 
wards. Well, there are many ways of forcing 
this useful plant, but briefly it may be divided 
into two distinct methods, No. 1 consisting of 
lifting the roots and placing them in artificially 
heated structures; or No. 2 by covering the 
crowns where they are grown with pots or boxes, 
and applying fermenting material, composed of 
stable litter, leaves, &c., or, in fact, anything 
that will generate warmth enough to excite 
growth. There is much to be said in favour of 
both systems, for they are both good under cer¬ 
tain conditions, and gardeners in private 
gardens, as a rule, find lifting the roots and 
placing them in heat the best plan for the earliest 
crops during December and January, for where 
heated glass structures are in use, a supply of 


cold winds will forward the growth at least a 
fortnight before the crowns left open, and 
Rhubarb, unlike many other crops, is better when 
forced than from the open air, being more 
tender and succulent.—J. G., Hants. 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORK, 


Extracts from, a Garden Diary—September 24 
to September 29. 

Putting first batch ol Roman Hyacinths and Roman 
Narcissus to force in very slight heat. Putting Myrtles 
and Orange trees into conservatory ; also Heliotropes In 
pits for winter flowering. Taking up and potting Holly¬ 
hocks, and placing them iu a cold pit. Pricking out 
Cauliflowers; also Red and Green Cabbage and more 
Lettuce. Syringing Azaleas for thrips, using 4 ounces of 
soft soap to a can of water. Cutting Marjoram, tying it 
in bundles and putting them in a vinery to dry. Roping 
some Onions to put in loft far keeping. Getting up 
Carrots and Beetroot Potting Japan Lilies; also Solo¬ 
mon’s Seal for forcing . Getting scented-leaved Peiar- 
goniims into pits. Putting In cuttings of Viola cornuta 
in cold frame. Pricking out Cauliflowers under the pro¬ 
tection of a south walL Putting cases over French Beans 



Early Red-top Munich. American Strapleaf. 


Rhubarb may be procured without any ad¬ 
ditional outlay, or even occupying any space 
useful for any other purpose, as under stages, or 
in the boiler shed, or, in fact, any position 
near tho hot pipes. The roots may be 
placed on the floor, or in pots or boxes, 
and covered with soil, keeping it moist, 
and the crowns may be covered with hay. 
Fern fronds, or litter, to blanch it. The only 
objection to this plan is that it weakens the 
crowns more than by forcing them in the ground, 
as the roots get very much mutilated iu removal, 
so that if the quantity of Rhubarb roots is 
limited, it is preferable to adopt the plan of 
forcing the roots where they are grown. Pro¬ 
cure the requisite number of pots, with movable 
covers, and place them over the crowns, then 
cover them over with fresh stable litter, or a 
mixture of leaves and litter mixed together. The 
leaves of deciduous trees are most useful for 
many purposes, as they can be used for forward¬ 
ing crops of Rhubarb and then placed in pits 
or frames for supplying bottom heat for Cucum¬ 
bers and other early crops. To have Rhubarb 
fit for use at Christmas, cover the crowns the 
middle of November, and as soon as tho first 
batch gets fairly started into growth, cover a 
few more pots in succession until it comes on 
naturally in March, when any large tubs or 
boxes turned over the crowns to shelter from 


in the open border. Gathering Winter Ndlls, Winter Bon 
Chrdtien, Gomel's Bergamot, Brown Beurrd, and Thomp¬ 
son’s Pears. Putting Primulas into lean-to pits, keeping 
them at from 65° to 60° at night. Patting Eucharis into 
Cucumber pit for winter flowers. Getting up all root 
crops. Getting Onions under cover. Making a frame 
ready for Calceolaria cuttings. Spreading manure on land 
for spring Cabbages. Earthing up Winter Cucumber plantp. 
Sowing cucumbers for planting in January. Taking up 
some seedling Lobelias and putting them in well-drained 
boxes. Getting all Mignonette. Salvias, and Pelargoniums 
under cover. Taking up Cauliflowers and putting them 
into a cool place to keep. Planting Mar6cbal Niel Roses 
in greenhouse; also a large quarter of Cabbage out-of- 
doors for spring use. Putting some fresh soil to Peach 
trees. Putting lights on Peach-house and vinery, not 
shutting them up, however, except in bad weather. 
Keeping Cucumbers at night about 70°, and the Mush¬ 
room shed about 55°. Getting Callas under cover, also 
Carnations into pits for winter flowering. Housing all 
greenhouse plants which have been placed out-of-doors. 
Planting last year’s forced bulbs to bloom in spring. 
Pricking off four lights of Cauliflower plants in frames. 
Cleaning June-struck Heliotropes and putting them in 
greenhouse. Laying in a large quantity of Cerastium. 
Clearing scale off Peach trees. Putting rough frame 
together for the protection of half-hardy plants. Begin¬ 
ning to make turf pit. Cleaning autumn-sown Onions. 
Pulling up and burning all vegetables in garden as they 
get useless. 

Glasshouses, 

Table Plants. 

Of numerous small plants that are suitable for 
table decoration or like purposes, the compara¬ 
tively new Cyperus laxus variegata is one of the 
best amongst variegated subjects that has ever 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


JlyltIZc 






322 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sept. 22, 1883. 


been introduced. It has a distinct and elegant 
habit, and the white variegation of the beautifully 
curved leaves is constant. It is a small grower, 
and admits of being increased fast from suckers. 
The handsome Aralia filicifolia is an excellent 
plant for the same purpose, its erect habit giving 
it a distinct and pretty appearance. It is a good 
grower, and can be increased much faster than 
most others of the genus. Where table plants 
are constantly required, there should be a regular 
succession prepared by propagating the different 
kinds used, for to make them at all passable the 
growth must be sufficiently free to give them a 
healthy look, and under such conditions they 
soon get too large for use in this way, and nothing 
can well be more out of character than using 
them when too big. Neither should such kinds 
be selected as have any approach to broad, heavy 
leaves. Light, elegant forms arc alone fit for the 
purpose. The Cyperus may be increased now in 
heat by suckers taken off and treated in the usual 
manner, and the Aralia also by the insertion of 
cuttings, but for the latter purpose it is best to 
use growths that have sprung from an older 
plant that has had its top removed. Where any 
of the variegated Dracaenas are used for this 
purpose they should be confined to the narrow, 
leaved varieties. Those with broad massive 
foliage, even in a small state, are unsuited. 
Amongst green-leaved kinds, the elegant D. con- 
gesta and D. stricta are both good table plants; 
where any old stools of these are at hand, they 
may be increased either by laying the stems 
down on a propagating bed covered with half an 
inch of soil, or by cutting them in bits with a 
couple of joints each, which, treated as ordinary 
cuttings in heat, will make, in due course, good 
plants. Primulas are better yet out in cold pits 
or frames, and will be well now with the lights 
facing southwards, as the sun they are likely to 
get after this time will be more to their benefit 
than otherwise. They should have plenty of air 
night as well as day. 

Cyclamens. 

These will not require shading after this time, 
and every encouragement must be given to all 
the stock, whether old bulbs that have been 
repotted some time back, or last year’s raised 
seedlings; where the latter are really well 
managed from the vegetation of the seed, for 
general purposes they are preferable to old 
plants. A moist bottom for the pots to stand on 
is also much the best for them, as they are plants 
that never suffer from damp; whereas, if stood 
on dry shelves or stages, except in the winter 
season, their two greatest enemies—red spider 
and aphides—are much more troublesome. The 
moisture always rising from the damp bottom, 
such as advised, keeps the undersides of the 
leaves continually moist and unpleasant to the 
insects. 

Luculia geatissima. 

This charming flowering plant is worthy of all 
the attention requisite to get it to bloom freely. 
To see it produce its beautiful flowers in the 
profusion that it is now and then met with, it 
wants to occupy an end or back wall in an in¬ 
termediate house, where it will not be over¬ 
shaded. Still, line as it is when grown in this 
way, it is very useful for decorative purposes, 
and also for cutting when in pots, as by having 
a number they can be so managed as to come on 
in succession; whereas, when planted out, the 
time of its flowering is regulated by the 
temperature maintained in the house. See that, 
it gets plenty of light, as the flowering of all 
subjects of this description that have somewhat 
soft wood is much assisted by their growth when 
about completion being under the influence of 
full light. From the time that it shows bloom, 
manure water will be of service. 

Caladiitms, Gloxinias, and Tubebous- 

EOOTED GeSNEBAS. 

As the leaves of these discolour, and the plants 
show signs of their growth stopping, water ought 
to be gradually withheld, allowing them to flag 
somewhat, and then only applying sufficient to 
freshen them up a little, but still keeping them 
in the stove. They are best during the winter 
in the pots in which they have been grown ; if 
there is not room for this they can be put in 
paper bags in dry sand; they ought not, how¬ 
ever, to be wintered in a lower temperature 
than 55°. 

POINSETTIAS. 

Where these are required dwarf, say in .“-inch 
or 6-inch pots, with,single heads fr®n 8 inches 

Digitized by GO glC 


to 11 inches or 12 inches high, they may be had 
by striking the tops of strong shoots made by 
plants that were started early, but they would 
not succeed if put in to strike in the way usual 
with ordinary cuttings, as, from their succulent 
nature, they would mostly rot. The way to pro¬ 
ceed is to cut the shoots half through to 6 inches 
or so from the top, letting them remain in this 
state for ten days or a fortnight to give the cut 
portions time to callus over; when this has taken 
place they can be severed and inserted singly in 
3-inch pots, using equal proportions of sand and 
sifted loam, and keeping them quite close in a 
cutting frame or under bell-glasses ; they should 
not have less heat than 70° or 75°. For the first 
few days only give enough water to keep the 
leaves from flagging; managed in this way they 
will soon root; after which inure them by de¬ 
grees to the air of the house and stand them 
quite close to the roof. If a shelf near the roof 
over a path is available, it will be found the most 
suitable place, the object being to keep them as 
dwarf as possible. When the little pots are full 
of roots, they must have others 2 inches or 3 
inches larger, now using good loam with a little 
sand and one-fourth rotten manure added. The 
tops may be struck a second time where the 
plants are required very dwarf, but, though they 
can be had to flower in a very small state by 
this means, the heads of bloom will, of course, 
not be nearly so fine as those borne by stroDg, 
tall,shoots that have never been stopped. 

Flower Garden. 

Preparing for Winter. 

The present season of bedded-out plants is all 
but over, and preparation must be made for 
housing such plants as are intended to be saved, 
or, at any rate, for securing cuttings for next 
year’s stock. Our plan with all tender kinds is 
to house them as soon as ever there is any danger 
of injury from frost, and replace the same with 
hardy plants to stand the winter. In this way 
the change of the garden from its summer to its 
winter dress goes on so gradually and imper¬ 
ceptibly as to be hardly noticeable till the whole 
has been donned in winter garb. Coleuses, 
Alternantheras, and IresiDes are always the first 
to be destroyed, and as soon as this takes place, 
we substitute hardy Heaths, dwarf Sedums, 
Thymes, Ajugas, and small shrubs, such as 
Retinosporas, Cupressus, Aucubas, Euonymus, 
and Iris, the one aim in their disposition and 
arrangement being that the colours and design 
of the beds shall as nearly as possible be similar 
to that of the summer arrangement. Of course 
summer gaiety is impossible, but a winter garden 
of coloured foliage, taking into account the 
changed season, is at least of equal merit to 
summer brilliancy. This combined summer and 
winter embellishment of the parterre, of course 
necessitates a reserve garden for the accommo¬ 
dation of the necessary plants, but much of it 
may also be of a permanent nature, or at least 
consist of such plants as will do equally well 
for summer or winter. This fact we keep in 
view when making our summer arrangements, 
and work in all the hardy plants possible— 
perhaps at the loss of a certain amount of bright¬ 
ness ; but this is more than counterbalanced by 
the lightened autumn labour of changing the 
plants, and the ensured cheerful aspect of: the 
beds in winter. Those who have not attempted 
the winter furnishing of parterre beds, and as a 
matter of course have not yet got the plants for 
doing it, may make a beginning by using the 
hardy dwarf carpeting plants that are now so 
generally used in summer bedding. A ground¬ 
work of these and a few small shrubs dotted 
over it is wonderfully telling in dull winter 
weather. Bulbs, such as Hyacinths and Tulips, 
may also be planted in masses, and the ground 
covered with these live carpets, which also 
prove a good protection to the bulbs. Other 
ways besides these might be suggested as to 
winter planting, but these will suffice to show in 
what direction to work in order to get rid of 
those ugly mounds of soil that disfigure our 
gardens all the winter, and which afford a very 
strong argument against—and not lightly used 
either by the opponents of—bedding out. 

General Work. 

This will consist in keeping flower-beds and 
borders in trim condition by repeated picking 
over, cutting edgings, and tying up such plants 
as need it. Herbaceous borders are still very 
gay with Japanese Anemones, Rndbeckias, I 


Phloxes, Achilleas, Gladioli, and Asters, but 
there are numbers of other plants that have done 
flowering, and are looking so “ seedy ” as to spoil 
the appearance of others; the stems of these, as 
soon as matured, should be removed, and in any 
case they should have the old flower-heads and 
rusty foliage cut off. The tall Pyrethrums and 
Michaelmas Daisies require stakes, and the like 
attention is needed by Castor-oils, Hemps, Gums, 
and other tall plants used as sub-tropicals. Pot 
up and bouse Pelargoniums that have been struck 
in open borders, and those recently put in pots 
and boxes must now have the shelter of a frame. 
Violas and Calceolarias should complete propa¬ 
gation for the present. All kinds that are being 
struck on a hot-bed should be taken out the 
moment they are well rooted, and be placed in 
other frames that can be well ventilated or pro¬ 
tected as may be needed, it being necessary to 
successful wintering that the growth be of the 
most robust kind ; and this cannot be unless 
great attention be paid to ventilation, which does 
not mean full exposure in all weather, but only 
in suitable weather. The clipping of hedges, 
moving of shrubs, and preparing soils in which 
to plant them, also digging and trenching ground 
for new plantations, are some of the other opera¬ 
tions that claim immediate attention. 

Fruit. 

Vines. 

As Vines in late summer and autumn houses 
are cleared of the crop, all laterals should be 
cut away from the base buds on the leaders and 
spur shoots to plump up the eyes before the 
main leaves fall. The latter must, however, be 
carefully preserved from injury, and kept clean 
by an occasional syringing with clean water 
until they ripen off a bright oraDge colour and. 
fall gradually. If the borders have been allowed 
to get very dry, repeated waterings with clear 
water or weak liquid will be necessary, and when 
the soil is properly moistened all old mulching 
and inert soil may be removed and replaced with 
a rich dressing of fresh turf, bones, and a covering 
of short horse manure. Houses in which ripe 
Grapes are hanging may have the temperature 
gradually lowered, otherwise the black varieties 
will soon lose their colour, but sufficient fire 
heat must be applied to admit of a free circula¬ 
tion of air, and to prevent the berries from 
damping off at the footstalk. Follow up the 
removal of laterals from Muscats, discontinue 
filling the evaporating troughs, and cover up the 
external borders with glass lights, shutters, or 
tarpaulings. Prune the early houses of Ham- 
burghs which are to be started in November, and 
spare no pains in getting them thoroughly 
cleansed and dressed; also wash and paint all 
internal woodwork, limewash the walls, and have 
everything put in thorough working order with 
as little delay as possible. Shorten back fruiting 
pot Vines and leave them out-of-doors where the 
roots can be protected from heavy rain. If top 
dressing is necessary, clear away all old mulching 
and use old turf, bone dust, and thoroughly 
decomposed cow manure. 

Peaches and Nectarines. 

Houses in which the very latest kinds are 
retarded* through every stage of their growth will 
now require and well repay all the attention that 
can be devoted to them with the view to the 
perfect maturation of the wood. The first step 
after all the fruit has been gathered will be the 
removal of every superfluous shoot to let in light, 
warmth, and air, when those left to furnish the 
trees must be lightly tied to the wires some 
6 inches apart. Many people lay them in much 
closer, but it is injurious to the trees, and very 
often leads to failure or the production of 
mediocre fruit, which ripens off when it should 
be commencing its last swelling. If spider or 
any other insect pests have got on the trees, they 
must of course be dislodged with pure water or 
an insecticide, and then will follow the treat¬ 
ment best calculated to ripen up the current 
year’s wood. In our own management in this 
garden, which lies low, cold, and damp, we apply 
gentle warmth to the pipes, with plenty of air, 
through the early part of the day, and the trees 
being clean, advantage is taken of every ray of 
sun by shutting up early with dry heat. In the 
management of trees in late houses a luxuriant 
growth of wood should be carefully avoided, and 
where, through light cropping or*ther causes, 
there exists a suspicion that the next year’s 
growth will become gross, how is the time to 



Sept. 22, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


323 


give them a check by digging a trench along the 
front of the border, or in a semicircle round each 
tree. If the border is in good condition, the old 
soil or new maiden loam may be used for filling 
up the trench again. On the other hand, the soil 
being bad or the roots down in the drainage, 
partial lifting and relaying will be the best, if 
not the only effectual remedy, as few trees so 
quickly recover from the check to produce crops 
of fruit of superior quality the following season. 
In all cases where the soil is sound and fairly 
good, the use of manure should be avoided in 
every form through the autumn months, but it 
may be used freely as a summer mulching, 
particularly where the soil is too light or deficient 
in lime. In limestone localities, where the Melon, 
the Strawberry, and the Rose grow well, the 
I'each is quite at home, and all that is needed is 
charred refuse, burnt clay, or old lime rubble in 
the proportion of one to five to keep tho loam 
open after the fibre is gone. 

STKAWB EIUtlES. 

Let the most forward plants of the kinds 
intended for early forcing be examined and 
moved from time to time, to prevent the roots 
from striking into the ground or bottom of the 
bed in which they are partly plunged. If, as is 
generally the case, they occupy very small pots, 
they will require a supply of water every day to 
keep the balls from shrinking away from the 
sides, and an occasional syriDge over with clean 
sulphnr water will do no harm in checking 
spider and mildew, which sometimes get a hold 
of the plants and break out in a very lively form 
when they are introduced to the genial warmth 
cf the forcing-house early in the spring. This 
must be looked to. Pay also particular attention 
to the mid-season and late kinds now making 
rapid growth, and move them to the most suit¬ 
able places for ripening up the crowns and 
foliage. In unfavourable situations, where the 
crowns barely ripen in good seasons, I have 
always advised the appropriation of dwarf walls 
or raised shelves for ripening the roots as well 
as the crowns, as the pots can be arranged in 
single rows, turned and tended with the greatest 
care, instead of being crowded, as we too often 
see them, into a limited space in which the 
exclusion of warmth, light, and air might be 
looked upon as the first element of success. 

Okchaed Houses. 

By this time all the mid-season Peaches, Nec¬ 
tarines, and Plums will have been gathered, and 
the trees will be in the best possible condition 
for potting or top-dressing. If they are in large¬ 
sized pots or tubs, no danger need be appre¬ 
hended from reducing the balls and replacing 
them in the same pots; but before this is done 
the whole of them should be turned oat and 
laid on their sides where the roots can be covered 
withsomedamp material to give time forwashing 
the pot and crocks and getting them thoroughly 
dry before the repotting is commenced. Mean¬ 
while a good quantity of dry turfy loam of a cal¬ 
careous nature, old lime rubble, and a little bone 
dost, should be thoroughly mixed, and protected 
from wet, ready foruse. When all is ready, choose 
a mild, cloudy day—of which we now have too 
many—crock carefully and liberally, divest the 
balls of all sour soil, cut back strong roots and re¬ 
place them with the tops of the balls sufficiently 
low to admit of a thin covering of compost at 
least 1 in. below the rim when all is finished. It 
is important that the balls are thoroughly moist 
at the time of potting, and the new soil is well 
rammed with a wooden rammer, otherwise water 
will pass away without entering the old part, and 
the trees will cast their best bnds in the spring 
when they ought to be bursting into flower. If 
it is inconvenient to house the trees they will do 
very well on a firm bottom free from worms in a 
warm situation out of doors, where they can be 
syringed overhead on fine days and moderately 
supplied with water when they require it. When 
fresh root action has set in, thin out any surplus 
wood and shorten back strong shoots to triple 
buds to keep the trees in shape, but avoid 
cutting the weak growths, as it frequently hap¬ 
pens that the only wood-bud they contain is 
at the point, and the loss of this from pruning 
or any other cause would render all the flower- 
tads abortive. If choice Pears and late Plums 
have been taken out to give the Peaches more 
room, these will have been replaced under glass 
with the October Peaches to ripen up, where, with 
like attention to wateri 


birds and wasps, they will hang for a considerable 
time after similar kinds on walls are over. 

Vegetables. 

Cabbage. 

From old plantations of Cabbage, the sprouts 
from which are so valuable throughout the 
winter, frequently clear away all old leaves, and 
occasionally run the hoe through the plots to 
keep them in healthy growth. The vegetable 
matter thus removed, together with prunings of 
trees, clippings of hedges, &c., after being 
burned, makes when mixed together with soot, 
or lime, or both, and allowed to lie for a short 
time, one of the very best of manures for any 
kind of vegetable crop. Continue to plant 
Cabbages as ground becomes vacant; it is time 
that the main crop for spring cutting was 
planted. We plant in lines 2 feet apart, and 
but 1 foot from plant to plant, and as soon as fit 
for nse in spring every alternate one is pulled 
out, a process which, whilst it ensures an early 
supply, also admits of the others growing into 
large Cabbages. 

Cauliflowers 

now under hand-lights, and also Lettuces and 
Endive, may still be planted out; tie up when 
dry for blanching the two latter, and take 
precautions to guard against the first frest; 
Endive, in particular, quickly begins to decay 
when once frozen. Cauliflowers in hand-lights 
must still have full exposure, jand a chance lot 
should be pricked out on a south border. Any 
that are ready for nse should have the foliage 
bent over the heads to preserve them from frost 
and from expansion. If lifted and heeled in 
under a north wall the supply may be continued 
for a long period. This way of continuing the 
supply is only necessary in cases where the suc¬ 
cession plots do not quickly follow. All but the 
very latest-planted 

Celehy 

may now be moulded up; the soaking of rain 
which we have received has just come right for 
this crop, and the sooner it is earthed the better. 
Previous to earthing, we tie up with matting 
each plant separately ; and though the plan is 
somewhat tedious, it is the only safe way of 
preventing the soil from gaining a lodgment 
between the stems. Of course, as soon as the 
soiling up is done, the ties are cut off. Late- 
planted Celery should be kept free from side 
suckers and weeds, and the ground should be 
kept open by surface hoeing. The same remarks 
that have been made concerning the earthing up 
of Celery are equally applicable to Cardoons. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 
September is always a busy month in a garden 
of any pretensions; both indoors and out there 
are so many things to be done in preparation for 
the dark days now rapidly approaching. The 
last lot of cuttings of Geraniums, &c., must be 
got in without delay ; if not all well in before 
the end of this month, they will stand but a poor 
chance of doing any good. Even now, if the 
autumn is wet and cold, the later batches will 
need a considerable amount of care, and a 
favourable position on a dry, airy shelf, or the 
like, otherwise a large proportion will be lost. 
If the old plants of Geraniums in the beds will 
be needed, it is much better to take them up in 
good time, before they are injured by frost, in 
which case they are of very little use. In town 
particularly these are usually anything but orna¬ 
mental after about the end of September, so by 
that time, or certainly not later than the early 
part of October, should the weather prove fine, 
they should be carefully lifted, trimmed, and 
placed in as small pots as they will conveniently 
go into. Any old Fuchsias that it is desired to 
keep should also be lifted and potted in good 
time. Most kinds of Fuchsias will live through 
the winter in the open border if protected 
by a small heap of ashes or Cocoanut 
fibre, but it is soiate before they start outside in 
spring that we find it preferable to keep them 
under glass, and harden off and plant out again 
next season. It is a very good plan to have a 
batch of the hardiest kinds of evergreens, small 
plants in pots, or planted out in some odd corner, 
to fill up the beds when denuded of their summer 
garnature. Anything of this kind is infinitely 
preferable to the unsightly patches of black soil 
usually met with, and if nicely arranged in height, 
and an edging of the common llouseleek, London 


ng aad protection from 

XiO gre 


Pride, or Thrift—any of which will stand a town 
winter well—with perhaps a few Hyacinths 
and Crocuses to brighten up the whole by and 
by, a very agreeable appearance may be created. 
The best evergreens for the purpose are Euony- 
mus in variety, the broad green kind being, of 
course, the hardiest, Ancubas, green or variegated, 
and small hardy Rhododendrons. Chrysanthe¬ 
mums still call for a considerable share of 
attention. The buds being now formed in most 
cases, disbudding, where fine blooms are desired, 
must be perseveringly, yet judiciously, carried on. 
Be careful also to remove all superfluous growth 
both from the base of the plants and the branches. 
From the present time until the blooms begin to 
show colour, it will be hardly possible to overfeed 
the plants. B. C. R. 

ROSES. 

ROSES FROM CUTTINGS. 
Cuttings put in in October are best in the case 
of those who have no greenhouses or frames, and 
who cannot devote the time and attention re¬ 
quired by cuttings put in two months earlier. It 
would, however, be misleading to say that there 
is no difference in the results, because there is. 
Cuttings put in during August can be potted off 
the same autumn, and the plants comparatively 
well hardened and established by the following 
spring. Not so those put in in October; they 
must remain where they were first planted until 
the October following. I do not say that they 
cannot be moved in spring as soon as they show 
signs of new growth, as then they will have a 
certain number of roots; but the risk is great, 
and by deferring their removal until autumn a 
greater number of plants will be saved than if 
disturbed earlier. 

Cuttings under hand-lights. —Although 
the cuttings may be put in the open ground and 
a fair proportion of the number may make plants, 
I have had the best results under hand-lights. I 
choose a warm south border. Take out the soil 
and run it through a fine sieve, and at the 
same time mix with it a good quantity of coarse 
sand, taking care that there is a depth of 9 inches 
or 10 inches of this sandy soil. I then water it and 
make it firm, and place the hand-lights on it, 
when it is ready for the reception of the cuttings. 
Where Roses are grown in any quantity there will 
be no difficulty in getting cuttings. It does not 
matter whether they are obtained from standards 
or dwarf plants, the only condition being that 
the growth must be fairly ripe, that is to say, soft 
sappy tops and late growths will not do. Any 
shoot, whether it has produced flowers or not, 
may be cut up into lengths aB cuttings if the 
wood is firm and the buds prominent. In making 
the cuttings, let a clean cut be made at a joint, 
remove two or three of the lowest leaves, and 
have two at the top when practicable, but it does 
not always happen that an otherwise suitable 
shoot is well furnished with leaves ; in that case 
the cuttings may be inserted without them, but 
preference should be given to shoots that have 
leaves upon them. First plant a row all round 
the light, and then put in the others 3 inches 
apart each way until the light is full. As soon 
as the space is filled up give the soil a good 
watering, put on the light, and let it remain. If 
bright weather should occur directly after the 
cuttings are put in, shade the lights for a few 
days. All the attention they require is to 
examine them about once a week to see if they 
are in need of water, as the soil should be kept 
moist, but not wet. They will want no air all 
the winter, but in hard frost they will be the 
better if some old mats or dry litter are laid on 
the lights. Three or four times during the winter 
take a wooden rammer, such as is used at the 
pottiDg bench, and ram the soil carefully be¬ 
tween the cuttings to make it firm, as worms 
will be sure to work amongst them and 
leave holes, which will let in air and prove 
fatal to some of the cuttings. Tho month of 
March is soon enough to commence giviDg them 
air, which may be done first on mild days, in¬ 
creasing the quantity as the weather gets 
wanner, but it is not desirable to remove the 
lights altogether until the cold May winds are 
over. In March remove all the dead leaves and 
weeds from amongst the cuttings, and in sum¬ 
mer an increased quantity of water will be 
necessary ; under this treatment the plants ob¬ 
tained will be at least from 50 to 60 per 
cent. They must be allowed to grow in their 
own way all the summer. The strongest will 


324 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sbpt. 22, 1883. 


most likely flower if the buds are not removed, 
which they ought to be. Twelve months from 
the time when the cuttings are put in the plants 
may be taken up and planted whenever they 
are required with perfect safety. If large plants 
are wanted, they must, as a matter of course, be 
grown one year longer in some good soil before 
they are finally planted out. 

Cuttings without protection.— In the 
case of cuttings put in the open ground, a warm 
position is the first consideration, the next that 
the soil be somewhat sandy, so as to encourage 
the roots to work freely, and the next that the 
cuttings be from 7 inches to 8 inches long, to 
allow sufficient length to go under the surface 
to enable the operator to fix every cutting firmly 
iu the soil. A good deal of the success, too, 
depends on the way in which the cuttings are 
planted after making the soil firm. The best 
plan is to make a cut with a spade, then let each 
cutting rest on a firm bottom, treading them 
in so firmly that a moderate pull with the hand 
will not remove them; when the winter has not 
been too severe I have got as many as 40 per 
cent, of plants in this way. The watering, 
weeding, and other attentions must be the same 
as recommended for cuttings put in under hand- 
lights. J. C. 

Roses In towns. — Wellington Road, 
where I reside, is in the Pembroke township ; it 
adjoins Dublin, and is densely built on. Being 
fond of Hoses, I tried my hand, for the first two 
years of my residence, with such ill success, that 
I was about to give up the effort in despair, 
thinking that the atmosphere was not sufficiently 
fine for that sensitive and beautiful queen of 
flowers. Hints, however, from correspondents 
in Gardening led me to make renewed efforts, 
and this year I rejoice to say, for the consolation 
of amateurs like myself, that the results have far 
exceeded my most sanguine expectations. The 
trees were obtained from a Scotch nursery, and 
were planted on a sunny border, the ground 
having been well trenched and improved with 
rotted stable manure, peat-mould, and sand, all 
well mixed with good fresh loam. I had a claret 
hogshead sawn in two; in one half I placed 
a quantity of old stable manure, then 
filled up with water, and allowed it to remain 
for a few weeks. With this liquid I 
watered the trees from time to time, 
carefully looking out for greenfly, and 
removing them as they appeared ; and the result 
of this simple process—that any novice may 
easily practice—was a succession of blooms 
some of which could not be excelled for purity of 
colour or beauty of shape. Knowing that the 
Rose is highly sensitive to atmospheric influences, 
I feared that the proximity of my garden to dear 
dirty Dublin, and the superadded soot deposits 
of a large township, would annihilate my hope of 
success, but the result of this years crop con¬ 
vinces me that in horticulture, as in other matters, 
the motto “ fit nr cede malts " is worthy of adop¬ 
tion. The roses that did best with me are Thomas 
Hills, Dupuy Jamain, Cheshunt Hybrid, Fisher 
Holmes, Gloire de Dijon, Marchioness of Exeter, 
Madame Nachury, Madame Beraut, and Madame 
Rittis. In the spring I gave a good mulching 
round each tree. R. B. McVittik. 

10289.— MOSS Roses. — These beautiful 
flowers are decidedly best grown as dwarf 
bushes, and “ Bruce ’ may safely prune them 
like Raspberries, provided he has plenty of last 
year's shoots to leave in the place of the old 
wood removed, as the young wood produces finer 
blooms than the old hard spurs; but, as a rule, 
dwarf Roses are best pruned on the system of a 
gradual renovating of the flowering wood, by 
removing the oldest wood and leaving some of 
the young shoots to replace them. As a rule, I 
find spring pruning preferable to winter pruning, 
for if the winter is mild the growth gets excited 
and the spring frosts injure the tender shoots ; 
but if pruned about the second week in March, 
the young shoots do not get far advanced before 
more genial weather prevails. This season the 
tops of the shoots were quite green when pruned, 
but the buds at the base of the shoots were 
dormant. After repeated trials, I can safely 
recommend spriog pruning.—J. G., Hunts. 

Red Rose with bronze foliage.—Probably the 
sesrlel Chinese, which is an almost perpetual bloomer 
and nourishes near the sea.—A. B. T., East Anglia. 

Vol. I. 11 Gardening ” Is out of print, and we are 
therefore unable to further supply either separate copies 
or bound volumes. 


Google 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


CARNATIONS AND PICOTEES. 

As the season approaches for potting or planting 
out these it may be useful to offer a few remarks 
on their culture, and to point out the best sorts 
for exhibition, or, what is very much more impor¬ 
tant, the best for border culture. It may not be 
generally known that some of the choicest varie¬ 
ties of Carnations and Picotees are weakly in con¬ 
stitution, and do not readily lend themselves to 
border culture where they are exposed to the 
vicissitudes of an English winter, or the more try¬ 
ing influences of our changeable springs. 

One of the best cultivators in the south told 
me that it was next to impossible to keep the 
plants in health for a successive number of 
seasons unless they were grown in pots and the 
young plants protected in frames during the 
winter ; and yet one sees in the gardens of the 
poorer class of amateurs in county Durham 
remarkably healthy plants grown and planted 
out of doors year after year. In many cases the 
want of success arises from improper treatment. 
I know of an instance in Scotland where a col¬ 
lection of Carnations and Picotees was annually 
purchased, but the plants never succeeded. The 
plan was to keep the plants in frames during the 
winter, and to plant them out in the spring, when 
all danger of frost was thought to be past. The 
fault was in planting too late, and allowing the 
plants to become too dry at the roots after they 
were planted. The Carnation does not mind 
frost if the plants are not too wet, but after they 
are planted out and established they will suffer 
from drought when the dry weather sets in ; 
indeed, we never let the plants become very dry 
at any time, as even in winter over-dryness at 
the roots will give the plants a serious check. In 
as few words as possible I will give the cultural 
details necessary to enable anyone acquainted 
with ordinary gardening to grow the Carnation 
and Picotee well for exhibition. 

Pot culture.— About the end of September, 
or early in October, the plants that were layered 
in August will be ready to be detached from the 
parent plants and to be potted for the winter. 
The potting material should consist of good 
loam from decayed turf, if it can be obtained, 
to which has been added a little rotten stable 
manure, leaf-mould, and sand. It is best to pot 
one plant in a smajl 3-in. pot, and when they are 
potted plunge them in Cocoanut fibre refuse in 
a cold frame. Some cultivators prefer to place 
their plants on stages in the frames, and to leave 
their lights open whenever the weather is favour¬ 
able during the winter. The plants do not seem 
to suffer from the effects of frost—even intense 
frost—if they are moderately dry. It requires 
some care during the winter months to see that 
the plants are neither too wet nor too dry, and 
that plenty of air is admitted to them. Mr. 
Dodwell, the veteran Carnation and Picotee 
cultivator now at Oxford, places his plants on 
stages and raises the frames so that the 
air may circulate freely underneath. The lights 
arc also raised on laths, and thus even in 
wet weather the ventilation is ample. The 
plants require to be frequently picked over 
during the winter to remove decayed foliage and 
cleanse the leaves from green-fly. In March 
they may be repotted into their flowering pots, 
and the sizes of pots we use are 7 inches, 8 
inches, and 9 inches in diameter. One plant is 
potted in the smallest size, two of the weakly or 
moderate growers in the 8-inch, and a pair of 
the strongest growers in the 9-inch ones. If 
room can be afforded for them in frames after 
they are repotted so much the better, as the 
roots of the plants would be injured if they 
were exposed to heavy rains, or, what is worse, 
hail or snowstorms, before they are established. 
After the roots have taken well hold of the new 
material they are not so easily injured. When 
the flower-stems have grown a little the sticks 
should be placed to them, and during the whole 
period of their growth a watchful eye must be 
kept for green-fly. As soon as the flowers show 
colour they must be protected from the weather. 
As many varieties have a tendency to produce 
split pods, the pods of such should be tied round 
with matting to prevent it. 

Border culture. —The Carnation and Tico- 
tee are well adapted for growing in beds or 
borders, but for this purpose only the strong- 
growing varieties should be planted, or if a 
quantity of bloom is wanted beds of seedlings 


are the best. Choice Carnations are grown better 
planted out in the open air in the neighbourhood 
of Newcastle-on-Tyne than anywhere so far as I 
know. The growers there plant out in October, 
or even so late as November. For manure they 
like to get the sweepings of a cattle market. 
The ground is trenched, and some of this manure 
incorporated with it, the plants being put out 
when it is in good condition. Violent storms 
are prevalent in that district, and the plants 
have to be secured to sticks to prevent their 
rocking about; and as a further protection the 
ground between the rows of plants is mulched 
with rotten stable manure. Any choice or 
weakly plants may be effectually protected by 
placing a bell-glass over each, just sufficiently 
raised from the ground to permit the air to cir¬ 
culate freely underneath. 

Seed raising is the most interesting and 
satisfactory method of growing Carnations. Sow 
the seeds in April in a gentle bottom heat; they 
will soon be up and ready to prick out into boxes 
or pans to be transferred to the open ground 
when they are well established. To have a 
strong growth and satisfactory bloom the ground 
ought to be well manured, and if the nature of 
the soil permits of it, it ought also to be deeply 
trenched. For the Carnation I fancy stable 
manure is best, and especially so if the soil is of 
a clayey nature. The plants may be put out in 
the permanent beds about 18 inches apart 
When the flowering time comes, all the really 
good sorts should be selected for layering, and 
this should be done early in order to have strong 
plants to flower the following season. 

J. D., Hford. 


Hardy Cyclamens. These are flowering 
very freely iu the open ground just now, as, 
indeed, they do every year with us. The 
varieties now in bloom are C. hederefolium 
and C. europaaum. Early in spring C. coum 
will succeed them. Hardy Cyclamens are most, 
useful plants; they never fail to flower. Severe 
frost does not injure them, and they will grow in 
almost any kind of soil or position, but to be 
appreciated they should have a narrow border to 
themselves close to a main walk, so as to be im¬ 
mediately under the eye. When out of flower the 
leaves even are handsome ; in fact, I hardly know 
which are most to be admired, the leaves or the 
flowers. Shortly after the leaves are gone the 
flowers appear ; therefore they may be said to be 
always in full dress. Those who intend to com¬ 
mence cultivating them should plant them at any 
time when they are out of flower, but undoubtedly 
the best time is early in August, just before 
they come into bloom. The soil should be ex¬ 
amined ; if very hard and lumpy, it must be broken 
up and made fine. Any ordinary kitchen garden 
soil will grow them equally well as any other. In 
planting, put the crown of the bulb just under 
the surface. My first stock of Cyclamens was 
raised from 6eed some yeare ago, and although 
somewhat tedious work, I managed to get some 
small flowering bulbs in two years. I have, 
however, learned since that my management 
was not quite right. I treated the young plants 
too kindly by growing them under glass 
the first year. This is unnecessary, as they do 
better in the open air. It is quite necessary to 
sow the seed in a pan, and keep it in a pit or 
frame, but as soon as the plants get large enough 
to handle, they do best planter! out where they 
are to remain. If planted G inches apart each 
way, they will want nothing more done to them 
for four or five years, except it be a sprinkling of 
fine soil over the bulbs just before they come 
into flower. At the end of five years the bulbs 
will have grown to a large size, and will have be¬ 
come crowded; then they will want a change of 
soil. In dealing with the varieties I have named, 
they may be safely taken up and replanted early 
in the month of August. Each bulb should be 
lifted separately, and when all are taken up, the 
old soil should be taken away and fresh material 
substituted. This is assuming, of course, that 
they are to be replanted in the same position. 
If they can be transplanted elsewhere, that 
would give them a change of soil without further 
trouble. In replanting large bulbs they must be 
placed farther apart than small ones. Nine 
inches from each other is not too much for bulbs 
from 5 inches to 6 inches in diameter, as that 
distance will only give them sufficient room in 
which to develop their handsome foliage.— 
itiftfl-nr-i-rvy or „ . at 


Sf/t. 22, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


325 


Sweet Peas. —Mr. Walbrook tells us that he 
has bd arch 9 feet high covered with one plant of a 
Sweet Pea. It seems a little remarkable that a 
spring-sown plant should do so much. Those 
who want the finest Sweet Peas, and a succession 
of them, must sow in autumn as well as in spring. 
At least a fine crop of flowers is got by this 
means on many soils. 

OardenerB’ Garter Grass. — Large 
plants of this placed amongst evergreen shrubs 
hare a bright and cheerful appearance, doing 
much to relieve the monotony apt to prevail 
where a large extent of shrubberies exists. The 
white of the foliage of this Grass is pure and 
constant, Dever under any circumstances assu¬ 
ming a sickly hue.—B. 

Papavsr umbrosa.— This is one of the 
most brilliant of the Poppies; a dwarf plant, 
bearing enormous flowers of the most intense 
scarlet with black blotches, its fiery colouring 
lighting np the mixed borders most effectively. 
I last autumn saw it in fine condition at Ryde. 
The way to get good plants is to sow the seeds in 
autumn, and as soon as large enough, prick off 
into boxes and place them on a shelf near the 
glass in a cold house or pit, and as the days 
lengthen, pot them off into 3-inch pots. Fine 
sturdy plants will then be ready by May, and 
they will make a far more effective display than 
can be got from spring sown plants Anyone 
trying tills plant once will not be likely to discatd 
it, and if treated as a half-hardy biennial instead 
of as an annual, the result will amply repay 
them.— James Groom, Uonpcrt. 

Pentstemon Murrayanus and spe- 

ciosus. — These two beautiful Pentstemons 
are not so often seen in such good condition as 
might be desired, a circumstance probably attri¬ 
butable to the fact that they are often treated 
as hardy plants in the true sense of the word 
On light, warm, well-drained soils they will 
often remain in good health for a considerable 
period, but where circumstances are not so 
favourable, hard winters either kill or so cripple 
them that a true idea of their beauty cannot be 
obtained. What is needed in their case is 
annual propagation, not deferring it until the 
plants become exhausted and the shoots woody, 
but taking off some cuttings any time during 
the summer; but the earlier the better, whilst 
the wood is sappy and in free growth. They 
strike readily in a cold frame, and as soon as 
they have taken root they should be inured to 
full exposure, so that they may become per¬ 
fectly hard by winter, when the protection of a 
cold frame is all that is needed to guarantee 
their safety. In any case, even where local con¬ 
ditions are of the most favourable description, 
a few young plants should be annually raised, 
as young free-growing specimens always produce 
the finest flowers. These Pentstemons may 
always be raised from seed, which may be either 
sown as soon as ripe or kept until spring, but if 
the former course is adopted the young seedlings 
should be wintered in a frame or cool house, 
planting them out in good free soil about the 
end of March. It should, however, be men¬ 
tioned that seedlings vary in colour, especially 
in the case of Murrayanus. This latter is a 
handsome plant, the flowering season of which 
lasts from the end of May until July, the colours 
being rose, flesh-coloured, or red, according to 
the variety ; whilst in speciosus the flowers are 
of a most beautiful blue. Many fine plants 
such as these Pentstemons do not find a happy 
home in gardens generally, simply because a 
little labour is not spent upon them annually, 
but of which they are quite as worthy as the 
many tender plants which cost so much to keep 
through the winter. C. 

Heliotrope White Lady.— This kind is 
giving us every satisfaction as a bedding variety, 
being of excellent habit, good constitution, and 
the most floriferous of any sort with which I am 
acquainted. Our beds of it have been one mass 
of flower for some time past, and bid fair to con¬ 
tinue till the frosts come to mar their beauty. The 
colour is not, as the name implies, white when 
grown in the open air, but is about the palest 
coloured kind I have seen. When grown under 
glass it may fairly be called white. We have 
plants now w ell established in 6-inch pots that 
are poshing up an abundant crop of bloom, every 
shoot, in fact, being set with flower. The well- 
known fragrance of the Heliotrope ought to cause 
it to be a universal favourite as a pot plant for 

the house.-J.j^e^ ^ .g]^ 


Picking faded flowers off plants.— 

So much has been said lately of the necessity of 
taking all the seed vessels off after the first 
bloom in the case of Campanulas, Delphiniums, 
ito., that I think a word of warning about the 
practice is Decessary. I find that, though it 
causes the plants to bloom a second time fairly 
well, it kills the biennials, and also prevents 
them from having seedling plants in the sum¬ 
mer, thereby losing a whole year. I will give 
an example: Two Campanulas—blue and white 
—sowed themselves last summer in a border; 
both came into bloom this spring. As an ex¬ 
periment, both being remarkably line plants, I 
picked all the first flowers off as fast as they 
faded; both bloomed a second time in August, 
and both are dying now. I shall not again 
repeat the experiment, as I think our old plan 
of letting the first seeds ripen, which gives ns 
fine young plants the same year, and then cut¬ 
ting the flowers stems off entirely, which saves 
the mother plant for many years, is the best. I 


There is no difficulty in cultivating these fine 
hardy Japanese Anemones. They are true 
perennials, and they have a wonderful capacity 
for propagating themselves, as the roots put 
forth plenty of suckers, and every small piece will 
grow into a plant. But in proportion as the soil 
in which the plants are growing is a fertile one, 
or otherwise, will be the size and plenteousness 
of the flowers. At the time of planting, some 
manure should be dug into the soil; and in the 
autumn or early spring, a mulching of manure 
and decaying leaves will be found of great 
advantage. During hot and drying weather, 
some water should also be given to keep the 
plants healthy and growing freely.—K. D. 


THE MARTPOSA LILY. 
(CAL0CH0RTC8 VENUSTUS.) 

Ov the genus Calochortus, which contains some 
of the most beautiful and elegant of all Cali¬ 
fornian plants, we have now a long list of 



Flowers of the Mariposa Lily (Calochortus veuustos). 


There is such a wealth of flowers in August that 
we really do not want a second edition of the 
June ones. Another objection is the enormous 
time it takes—from a quarter to half an hour to 
each plant is rather serious when you have 
twenty or thirty clumps to go over of one kind 
alone.—A. B. T., Eatt Anglia. 

Anemone japonloa and ita varieties. 
—I have several large plantsof the white variety 
now in bloom in a forecourt garden, and very 
finely too, and passers-by stop and wonder wbat 
they are; they are attracted by the snowy purity 
and size as well as the numbers of the blossoms. 
It is one of those plants that should be in every 
garden, large or small. But in our deserved 
admiration of the white variety, let us not forget 
the claims of A. japonica and its pretty pale 
colonred variety called hybrids. If the flowers 
of A. japonica are not quite so perfect in form as 
those of the others, this is compensated for by 
their depth of colour, and it is very striking and 
effective in association with the others. The 
variety hybrids is also exceedingly pretty ; it is 
in every respect except colour the counterpart of 
the white form ; the colour is a soft rosy pink. 


species in cultivation, including the Cyclobo- 
thras, which botanists now merge with Calo¬ 
chortus. Out of the score or so of cultivated 
Species and varieties, there is not one 
that is not worthy of growing, and the whole 
form a most interesting collection; but, owing 
to the want of diversity of colour among them, 
and the existence of a strong family likeness 
which runs through the whole of them, the 
general cultivator need only grow at the most 
half a dozen of them in order to have representa¬ 
tives of each set of species. These few should in¬ 
clude the most attractive and at the same time 
the most vigorous, and consequently the easiest 
to grow, for, unfortunately, these beautiful Cali- 
[ fornians as a class but too well deserve the repu- 
I tationofbeingamongtbemo-tdifficultto manage 
[ of all hardy bulbous plants. The best half a dozen 
to suit the general cultivator should include C. 
pulchellus (yellow), albus (white), elegans 
(slaty purple), all of which belong to the Cyclo- 
bothra section, and C. luteus (rich yellow), 
splendens (deep lilac), and venustus (white and 
spotted), which belong to the true Calochorti. 
The last-named species, the subject of the an- 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 











326 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sept. 22, 1883. 


nexed woodcut, ia truly a lovely plant, having 
large white cup-like blossoms, yellow and 
bearded at the base of the petals, which are ex¬ 
quisitely feathered with crimson. C. splendens 
is similar but larger, deep lilac, and very free 
flowering, while C. luteus is a glowing rich 
yellow. Of the Cyclobothra section the finest of 
all is C. pulchella, a kind which bears curiously 
shaped drooping, rich yellow (lowers on forked 
stems in an elegant way. It is the hardiest of 
all the species, and one of the easiest to grow, 
as it rarely fails to succeed, at least in southern 
gardens. C. albus and elegans are both pretty 
little species, but less desirable than either of 
the preceding. 

The culture of these plants has long been 
a subject of discussion, and it is pretty clear that 
no one rule can be laid down which can be fol¬ 
lowed with advantage everywhere. The species 
mentioned are all more or less delicate in con¬ 
stitution compared with most hardy bulbous 
plants, but for all that they resent too 
much coddling, and do not like to be disturbed 
when once they become tolerably well estab¬ 
lished in any particular position. They may be 
all grown admirably 

In pots, and for this purpose the bulbs 
should be procured at this season, placed in mode¬ 
rate sized, well-drained pots in a soil consisting 
of sandy loam, the bulbs being placed about 
1 inch below the surface. The pots should be 
plunged to their rims in ashes in an unheated 
frame under glass. The soil should be kept just 
damp throughout the winter, and when in spring 
the leaves appear more moisture may be given, 
and the plants should be exposed as much as 
possible to air and sunshine. Bulbs, too, planted 
out in free soil in a frame answer almost as well. 
After they have flowered in summer the soil 
should be kept rather dry, so as to induce 
thorough ripening of the bulbs. They will not 
require fresh soil for a couple of seasons, and 
probably not then; sometimes a top-dressing 
with good soil will suffice if the drainage is 
right. 

Another but less certain way of dealing with 
these plants is to plant them in a warm, sunny 
border of good light soil that is quite free from 
stagnant moisture. If the border is backed by a 
south aspect wall so much the better; in this 
case the bulbs should be planted as near the 
base of the wall as possible, as in such a posi¬ 
tion they get well repaid. During winter they 
should be protected either with a handlight or a 
covering of ashes, Cocoa-nut fibre, or other pro¬ 
tective material. Some, however, do not even 
take that trouble with them, and yet have a good 
crop of flowers for a year or two, but they well 
repay a little extra trouble as regards protection. 
Alt the kinds mentioned can now be obtained at 
a comparatively low price. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


10282.— Potting Fuchsias. — Fuchsias 
should certainly be potted quite firmly, except 
when in a very small state. Some of the best 
growers ram the soil almost as hard as a brick, 
but this is not at all necessary. About the best 
compost is two parts of rich fibrous loam, one 
part each of well-decayed manure and leaf- 
mould, with a slight dash of coarse sand. But a 
great point is to get the compost open or granu¬ 
lar in texture, so that the water will run freely 
through it. If too fine or sandy it will run 
together and cake, and the plants will not do 
half so well. Make the soil, when potting into 
the flowering size, as firm as you can with the 
fingers, though, if large pots are used—say over 
7 inches—a rammer should be employed. Twelve 
splendid kinds are Mdme. G. Marie, Paris 
Murcie, and Miss Lucy Finnis, double white ; 
Geant des Batailles, Purple Prince, and Ava¬ 
lanche, dark doubles; Elegance, Scarcity, and 
Wave of Life, single dark ; and Lady Heytes- 
bury. Miss Welsh, and Purity, of the light- 
coloured Bingle kinds. There are newer ones 
than several of these, but though the individual 
bloom9 of these recent introductions are very 
fine, many have such a bad habit and are so shy 
of flower that they are by no means equal, on 
the whole, to the old standard kinds, that can 
always be depended upon.—B. C. R. 

10256.— Seedling Begonias. — Had the 

plants with semi-double flowers been shifted 
into larger pots before-producing single blooms f 

Co 2ie 


I find the most fully double blooms are produced 
when the plants are getting pretty well pot- 
bound, but in full growth. Of course, all double 
Begonias, however perfect, have their female or 
seed-producing blooms quite single. The male 
or pollen-bearing flowers only come double, and 
these, even if good, vary considerably in double¬ 
ness according to the health and condition of the 
plant. To obtain double seed, pollen should be 
taken from the semi-double blooms (and the 
more double these are, so that there is any pollen 
at all on them, the better), and worked on the 
seed-flowers (single) of a plant whose male 
flowers are as perfectly double as possible. In 
this way only can a good proportion of doubles 
be depended upon. If really good plants be 
available, and they are treated as described, the 
proportion of doubles in the seedlings will often 
rise as high as 80 or 90 per cent.—B. C. R. 

10208.— Begonia cuttings. — Presuming 
that the tuberous section of Begonias are re¬ 
ferred to, I should begin by saying that these 
plants are very ticklish things to strike from 
cuttings under aDy circumstances ; it takes a 
clever hand to do them with any certainty. 
Still, they can be, and are, struck by thousands. 
The cuttings must be taken from healthy vigo¬ 
rous plants, and must be dried for some hours 
before insertion. Place them singly in 2^-inch 
pots half full of drainage, in a compost of equal 
parts of sand and leaf-mould, and a little Cocoa- 
nut-fibre. Water well, and place on a shelf near 
the glass in a rather warm but dry house, where 
they can be kept rather close and shaded from 
a hot sun. Keep somewhat dry, and only water 
on a bright morning, so that the stem may be 
quite dry before night. In this way few should 
fail to root.—B. C. R. 

10294.— Azaleas in cold greenhouse.— Azaleas 
are almost liardy, and will do almost anywhere as long as 
they are protected from severe frost.—J. S., Westbunj- 
on-Trym, Gloucester. 


HOUSE AND WINDOW GABDENDTG. 

Flowers and plants In rooms.— A large 
bunch of white Japanese Anemone, cut long 
and placed in a tall glass, has a wreath of red¬ 
leaved Virginia Creeper climbing about among 
the flowers with excellent effect. In another 
tall glass some late flowers of Lilium auratum 
are with large shoots of Solomon's Seal that have 
turned a golden-green colour. Single Dahlias, 
yellow, orange, scarlet, and darkest red, with 
some red-tinted leaves of Chinese Pmony, make 
a harmonious group of strong warm colour. 
Spikes of Japan Monkshood are with cream- 
coloured and white Zinnias. Pink China Roses, 
with red and red-bronze coloured Bramble 
leaves, are pretty in a white china basket. Pale 
rose coloured Verbenas, also in white china, are 
arranged with Mignonette and foliage of varie¬ 
gated Sweet Geranium. Chinese Pinks, strongest 
crimson and pink, make a bright table bouquet. 
The late flowering Gentiana asclepiadea is a 
valuable table flower, lasting long in water; a 
few of its Willow-like shoots with blue flowers 
and one or two of the white variety look well in 
a slender Venetian glass.— G. J. 

Calvary Clover (Medieago Echinus).— 
This, although a hardy annual, also makes a very 
pretty basket plant for a cool greenhouse or 
window. The curled up seed-pods are so densely 
covered with spines as to suggest some resem¬ 
blance to a hedgehog, hence the specific name 
Echinus. When it is in a young state the ruby 
coloured spots on its Clover-like leaves are very 
pretty, especially when grown in the open air. It 
especially deserves a place in gardens where 
plants of botanical interest are appreciated.— 
F. W. 

Window gardening. — The Sheffield 
School Board recently made an interesting ex¬ 
periment with the view of encouraging the 
love and culture of flowers, and especially in 
regard to window gardening, among the scholars. 
Five thousand plants were given out to boys and 
girls in one district to be reared for competition. 
The exhibition took place in Duchess Road 
schools, when 2,500 plants were brought forward, 
many in very fine condition. The Mayoress of 
Sheffield presented prizes to over 100 scholars, 
and so great was the interest exhibited by the 
parents of the children and thepnblic, that from 
15,000 to 20,000 people visited the exhibition 
during the day. The success will lead to general 
competition extendjpg to all schools. 


Window plants. — I have several windows 
in my house suitable for plants, but, being a new 
beginner, I need instruction as to their culti¬ 
vation, Sec. I have fifty plants of various sorts, 
but Fuchsias are my favourites. I am at a loss 
to know what is the best treatment for them; 
also Pelargoniums and various other window 
plants. I have a goodly number of Fuchsias that 
I have struck myself, and they are making fine 
plants, and I hope and expect they will flower 
soon. Will someone kindly give me advice about 
my plants ?—D. C. G. 

China and glazed earthenware pots. — Plaati 
rarely flourish in these, as no air can penetrate the aides. 
The beat way to uae them ia to put a common flower-pel 
inside and take them out when the plant requires water. 
A. B. X., Bait Anglia. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


Propagating Ivy.— Though the Ivy is for 
the most part readily propagated by means of cut¬ 
tings, yet among the more delicate sorts there 
are some that do not strike root very freely in 
that way, and on that account are generally- 
grafted on the common Ivy. This mode of pro¬ 
pagation has one disadvantage, and that is 
snekers are produced somewhat freely at times, 
and as the stock is as a rule completely buried, 
they are difficult to eradicate. Jn putting in 
cuttings »f delicate kinds they should always 
have the shelter of a frame, and where that can 
be accorded them there is no better time than 
the present for carrying out the operation. The 
best way is to make up a bed of sandy soil in 
the frame; take out a little of the original soil, 
put a layer of drainage in the bottom, then 
about 6 inches of suitably prepared compost 
over that, and press all firmly down. Into the 
bed thus prepared the cuttings may be dibbled, 
when they will require but little attention till 
rooted ; indeed cuttings of many shrubs strike 
well under similar conditions. If put into pots 
they should be 6-inch ones, and they should be 
well drained and filled with light sandy soil. 
Do not crowd the cuttings too much, as in 
that case some of the variegated forms are 
liable to decay. Common Ivies are generally 
propagated by cutting the stem into lengths of 
1 foot or more, and inserting them deeply and 
firmly in the open ground. They should be put 
in so that only the top two or three buds are 
visible, as in that case they are better enabled to 
withstand drying winds. Such woik is generally 
done in the winter, the cuttings being tied up 
into bundles and laid in till favourable weather 
occurs in which to plant them. When put in 
frames or iD pots much smaller cuttings may be 
employed, a depth of 2 inches or 3 inches beiDg 
sufficient, an advantage when there is but one, 
and that perhsps a weak plant, to take from. In 
the case of choice kinds clinging to a wall, 
remove the adhering portion with one clean cut, 
otherwise decay will sometimes commence there, 
and if carefully done, no harm need occur to the 
bark in consequence; indeed, from the cut 
portion true roots will often be produced and 
strike into the soil, which would not happen if 
the aerial ones remained undisturbed. Grafting 
may be performed all through the spring, 
summer, and early autumn months if the stocks 
are established in small pots. Side grafting is 
preferred, and the stock should only have its 
straggling shoots shortened, the top being cut 
away by degrees after a union has taken place. 
Graft as low as possible, so that when planted 
out the point of union may be covered with the 
soil. 

Evergreen climber for stable wall. 

—I want to cover a large white wall with a 
really good evergreen shrub or climber—one 
that could be clipped preferred, and of rapid 
growth. I have been recommended Escallonia 
macrantha. What is it like 1 Does it make 
much litter and harbour snails, insects, &e. 1 
Will it grow without wire trellis 1 Can any 
reader kindly give me this information, or 
suggest what should be planted, and when ?— 
Bur wood, Derail. [Escallonia macrantha 
would suit you admirably, as it is perfectly 
hardy in Devonshire. It is a neat growing 
shrub, does not require much clipping or trim¬ 
ming ; its flowers are pretty, and does not make 
a litter. It would require to be nailed or tied 
against the wall.—E d.] 


Prunella on lawns.— Lawn sand is a 
good remedy for this, and the present a good 



Sept. 22, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


327 


time to apply it, as grass is getting faded 
with the heat lately, and therefore the decay 
of the weeds under the lawn sand is less 
noticeable.—A. B. T, East Anglia. 


FRUIT. 

SIMPLE GRAPE CULTURE. 

I am mnch pleased tc see this subject so often 
referred to in Gardening ; and all the recent 
articles relating to it have been to me, at least, 
highly interesting. If I might be allowed to 
contribute a few words to the discussion, I 
would say, with reference to “ L. C. K.V' article, 
September 8th, that the greater number of my 
most vigorously growing open-air Grape Vines 
are planted in borders only two feet wide, 
bounded either by garden paths or by hard 
trodden ground, such as that of a stable yard. 
I attribute their luxuriant growth to their being 
all planted close to brick walls, under and 
around which 11 the roots of the Vine, which 
run with eagerness into all the clefts, crevices 
and openings, pushing themselves with the 
greatest avidity, and continually branching ont in 
every possible direction, and cliDging, like ivy, 
round the porous surfacesof their retreats,extract 
therefrom a species of food more nourishing than 
that obtained by them under any other circum¬ 
stances whatever.— Hoare.” So that I do not 
wonder at the success of the experiment with 
the Black Hamburgh described by “ L. C. Iv.”; 
indeed, I have found, both in this country and 
in warmer latitudes, that the Grape Vine will 
grow almost anywhere, and that it will alwSys 
repay any proper attention given to its culture. 
What a pity it is that so very little should be seen 
of this apart from the gardens of the rich. As 
to the non-essentiality of forming elaborately 
prepared borders, Mr. James Cuthill, referring 
in his treatise on the Vine to the practice of Mr. 
Chapman, a market gardener of Vauxhall, says, 
“ Neither he nor his father ever made np a 
border, but merely planted their Vines in a bar¬ 
rowful of rich mould to start them. The natural 
soil of his ground is very light and sandy.and the 
roots travel where they like; finer crops and blacker 
fruit cannot anywhere be seen.” The vitality of 
the Grape Vine is also very remarkable. When, 
ten years ago, I took possession of my present 
abode, I found the stump of a Grape Vine stick¬ 
ing out of the ground in the kitchen yard, under 
the eaves of a pent house, which stump was (and 
continues to be) about 10 inches high, bat had 
been split with an axe down to the surface of 
the earth, by two cats on opposite sides, leaving 
only one half, or less, of the stock. It had evi¬ 
dently been intended to grub up the plant alto¬ 
gether, but, after striking his two blows, the 
workman bad apparently abandoned his job. I 
paid no attention for some time to this poor 
mutilated stamp; but in the following spring it 
showed signs of life by putting forth a shoot or 
two, which were, however, gnawed off by my 
dog, as were also, if I remember rightly, those 
of the succeeding year; and it was not until I 
had guarded the yonng shoots with laths that I 
succeeded in getting one to grow as high as the 
roof of the pent house, out of harm's way. Since 
then I have had some nice bunches of Grapes 
from that Vine—a Royal Muscadine—and so 
well pleased am I with it, that I think, by and 
by, of treating it to a little glass. J. M. 


BUSH FRUITS IN SMALL GARDENS. 
The season is now rapidly drawing on for plant¬ 
ing, and nothing is so conducive to a successful 
issue as an early start. In fact, no time should 
be lost in getting the soil prepared by trenching, 
so that it may be loose and mellow as soon as 
October comes in, then plant at once while the 
latent heat of summer still lingers in the soil to 
promote root action. Last winter I had a 
qnantity of trees and bashes laid in by the roots 
ready for planting as positions were prepared for 
them, and in taking them up I was surprised at 
the white thread like roots that they continued 
to make until winter was far advanced. In 
fact there is very little cessation of root action 
in deciduous trees and bushes, for they are busy 
filling np the buds, even though the old leaves 
have dropped, and I have been so satisfied of 
the merits of early planting that for the future 
1 mean to take the first opportunity, as soon as 
the leaves begin to fall, to get all planting done 
U far as practicable, Erfly > planted tej st^rt 


vigorously into growth in spring, and carry some 
fine fruit the first season. Gooseberries and 
Currants, that are not only the cheapest trees to 
stock a small garden with, but about the most re¬ 
liable as far as cropping isconoerned, have in many 
cases borne more fruit the first season than 
would repay their cost. I may especially men¬ 
tion Lancashire I,ad and Rifleman Gooseberry 
as amongst the very best to plant. Young 
bashes planted and left with shoots imprnned, 
were completely weighed down with fine fruit 
in less than six months alter planting, and in 
Black Currants, the sorts called Baldwins and 
Black Naples bore fruit of extraordinary size 
the first season. Of Red Currants, I find Raby 
Castle and Victoria all that can be desired; and 
of white sorts that are weakly growers, I would 
especially adviso planting a few against dwarf 
walls, for they are invaluable for dessert late in 
the season, and, covered with muslin or tiffany, 
may be kept very late. 

Owners of small gardens should treat their 
Apples and Pears as bush fruits; by plantingsmall 
bush trees on dwarfing stocks, they fruit when 
large trees fail, and begin bearing at once. I 
haveat present bush Apples with quite a fine crop, 
only planted last October, New Hawthornden, 
Lord Suffield, and Lady Henniker being fit for 
exhibition. A row of these bashes fi feet or 8 feet 
apart by the margin of walks will give fruit 
enough for the supply of an ordinary family 
About six varieties, well selected, is far more 
likely to give a snpply of fruit than a whole 
catalogue of sorts. After repeated trials, I can 
safely recommend the following sorts to intend¬ 
ing planters as the best and most reliable of 
their respective kinds, and sure to give a snpply 
of fruit for successional use; 

Apples. 

Kitchen Apples .—Keswick Codlin, Lord 8uf- 
field, Stones Apple or Loddington Seedling, New 
Hawthornden, Wellington, Northern Greening. 

Dessert Apples .—Irish Peach, Worcester Pear- 
main, Cox's Orange Pippin, King of the Pippins, 
Reinette du Canada, Stunner Pippin. 

Pears. 

Dessert Pears. —Jargonelle, Williams’s Bon 
ChriHien, Beurri; d'Amanlis, Louise Bonne of 
Jersey, Marie Louise, Councillor de la Conr, 
Winter Nelis, Josephine de Malines, Beurrfi 
Ranee, Easter Ileum' 

Culinary Pears .— Bellissimic de Hiver, Cat- 
t iliac. 

Plums. 

Early or New Orleans, Dauphin or Victoria, 
Prince Englebert, Pond's Seedling, Coe’s Golden 
Drop, Belle de Septembre, Grand Duke, Wydale. 

Cherries. 

May Duke, Black Eagle, Bigarreau Napoleon, 
Black Tartarian, ilorello, Belle Agathe. 

Damsons and Bullacep. 

The Cluster or Crittenden Damson, Shepherd’s 
Bullace, large, round, useful culinary sort. 

Gosport. James Groom. 


Planting an orchard— Some few years 
ago I planted about an acre with standard 
Apples, Pears, and Plums. They have done well, 
but since planting out these standards I have 
planted about fifty or sixty trees on wire espa¬ 
liers, and if ever I were planting an orchard 
again I would put It all on wire, for these rea¬ 
sons : 1 could put more trees on the same space, 
the fruit on the espalier is finer, and it is quite 
safe from the wind, which often completely 
strips the standards of the fruit when only half 
ripe. The only drawback to the espalier is the 
first expense, but this need not be great. Old 
rails removed from railway sleepers make capi¬ 
tal end standards or straining posts, and the 
intermediate posts have only to sustain the 
weight of light wires; there is nothing of the 
nature of a fence to resist cattle. They may be 
made of perforated quarter-inch iron bars, 
merely driven a couple of feet into the ground, 
as, after a year or two, when the trees have 
clothed the wires, the trees themselves will sup¬ 
port the wires. This is what I would recom¬ 
mend. Bay an old rail, say 16 feet long, at the 
price of old iron; cut it into two lengths of 10 
feet and 6 feet; get the smith to bore a dozen 
holes in the 10 feet length for the wires ; sink 
it in the ground 3 feet, leaving 7 feet above 
ground, and use the 6-feet length as a stay. 
There are no stones or anchors necessary for the 


10 feet standard—it has only to resist the wind ; 
but one of the wire holes should be made abont 
1 inch in diameter, and through this hole an iron 
bolt is driven for the head of the stay to rest on. 
For the foot of the stay a stone or slate may be 
laid fiat about 1 feet below the surface, and 
another stone at right angles for the point of 
the stay to press against like a half-open book. 
Wire is sold by weight, and very light wire 
would do. I have not tried it, but I think com¬ 
mon copper bell wire would be as economical as 
any. The espaliers should run north and south 
for the sun, and if 7 feet high, about 8 feet apart 
to admit the sun and air. There is ample room 
for a row of Gooseberries or Currants between 
each espalier. If a man objects to the sight of 
an old rail, it is easy to plant a climbing Rose 
to hide it. In planting an orchard, see that you get 
yonng vigorous trees, not old stumps that have 
been cut back for years, and also open roots, not 
stunted and clumped or potgrown ; also get 
trees from a colder county—the extra warmth 
and better climate of the place where they are 
to be planted will start them freely into growth. 
A single espalier should run east and west, but 
rows of espaliers should run north and south. 
—J. B. 

Apples as wall trees.—I feel pretty 
confident that a wall devoted to Apples would 
not be at all a bad investment, even in the 
sunny south, where it may be urged that they 
do not need such protection, but in a neigh¬ 
bouring garden I have noted, both last season 
and again this, that a tree of Reinette du 
Canada bears a splendid crop of the finest 
fruit, nearly every one fit for exhibition, and I 
was assured that it scarcely ever failed to 
mature a fine crop; and looking at the quantity 
of fruit and the small space occupied, I came 
to the conclusion that very few of the wall trees 
in the same garden could rival the Apple in the 
value of its crop. I am well aware that Apples 
of some kind or other can be got from open 
trees and bashes in nearly all kinds of seasons, 
and that Teaches, Apricots, and other tender 
fruits monopolise nearly all the available wall 
space. But for the snpply of the long winter 
months, and more especially those bordering on 
the spriDg, when home-grown fruit is scarcest, a 
few trees of our very best late keeping Apples 
would in many cases bo an advantage, as they 
are not only more reliable croppers than late 
keeping Tears, but are decidedly preferable in 
the general sense for which frnit is grown, viz., 
to eit, as it too frequently happens that in 
seasons when late springs curtail the season of 
growth so that the frnit does not fully mature 
its growth on the tree, it also fails to ripen 
so as to be useful for dessert at all, and I feel 
sure that the Apple has had but scant justice 
done to it as a winter dessert fruit, for, when 
accorded good treatment, no frnit cultivated in 
oar gardens will so well repay the attention 
bestowed on it.— James Groom, Gosport , Hants. 

Apple trees from cuttings —There is 
nothing new in raising apples from cuttings, but 
the proper sort of cuttings to nse is an important 
part of the operation. I have never had mnch 
success in striking small cuttings of the yonng 
wood of preceding season’s growth, but by taking 
off good sized branches like young trees, and 
planting them firmly in the soil, I have on several 
occasions had the satisfaction of raising young 
trees in one season that have borne several fruits 
the next year. Last winter I selected some 
branches from trees that produce air roots like 
Vines, and planted them at the ends of rows of 
young rooted trees. They were late in coming 
into leaf and flower but they all grew freely, and 
one set several frnits and swelled them up to a 
good size, when they were blown off by a violent 
gale of wind. It may not be of much importance 
to many whether they grow their Apples on 
grafted, budded, or own-root trees, bnt there are 
many who value any plant or tree they raise 
themslves much more than a similar one pur¬ 
chased, and to these I can confidently say that the 
increasing of the king of hardy fruits by means 
of good strong branches sawn off and inserted 
firmly in the soil, is not a myth, but a reality. 
We cannot have too many Apple trees, any more 
than too many Roses, and the plan of growing 
them from cuttings is as applicable to one as the 
other—at least I am well satisfied with my own 
success, and mean to give it a more extended 
trial another season.— James Groom, Gosport, 
Hants. 



328 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sept. 22, 1883. 


10287— Fruit treeB for small garden. 

—Fruit growing on the clay is generally a very 
uphill business, and 6ome experience in two 
different gardens on the heavy soils in the north of 
London almost leads me to say, “ Do not attempt 
it.” Still, under some conditions, it may be tried. 
If the top soil has not been removed by the 
builders, and there is a good depth of loam 
before coming to the clay, and if the situation is 
open and not shaded by buildings or trees on 
the south, the chances are favourable. I will 
give the names of the very few varieties out of a 
considerable number grown that have borne 
fairly well and regularly with me. Apples: 
Manx Codlin, Keswick Codlin, Lord Suffield, 
Cox’s Fomona. The fine dessert kinds, except 
Blenheim Orange, are useless. Pears: Beurre 
Diel and Marie Louise. Plums: Victoria and 
Jefferson fairly good, but Orleans, Magnum 
Bonum, Greengage, and many others, utterly 
fruitless year after year. Cherries do no good, 
except the Morello ; on wall or fence this bears 
well. Bush fruit is far more satisfactory. Of 
Currants, Raspberries, Gooseberries, and also 
Strawberries, one may be sure of a crop every 
season. Planting may be done soon after the 
leaves have fallen, and the ground should have 
been well prepared beforehand by trenching, 
and adding a quantity of screened burnt ballast' 
or similar material to lighten it if very heavy.— 
K., Hornsey. 

10291.— Keeping Grapes — If “ J. S.” had 
given the name of the Grapes that he wanted to 
keep, the answer to his enquiry might be more 
satisfactory. There are various modes of keep¬ 
ing Grapes, but one of the best I consider is 
that originated by the French, and which was 
brought prominently into notice by Mr. Robin¬ 
son, in his “ Parks, Promenades,” &c. Mr. 
Knight, a well known English gardener, adopted 
the plan. For as many bunches of Grapes as 
you have, get as many narrow necked bottles ; 
fill them with water; put in a little charcoal to 
keep the water sweet, then put the piece of Vine 
rod into the bottle, keeping the house at from 35° 
to 40°. If your Grapes are perfectly ripe, they 
can be cut at any time, but if you do not 
want the house, let them hang on the Vine as 
long as you can do without it. The house, how¬ 
ever must be kept dry. — J. S., Westbury-on- 
Trym. 

10301.— Peaches dropping— The most 
probable reason is that the trees are not suffi¬ 
ciently moist at the roots. Peaches suffer before 
Nectarines will from this cause. The border is 
sometimes moist enough on the surface, but the 
moisture may not have penetrated deep enough. 
-J. D. E. 

10299 —Caterpillars on fruit trees —The pest 
resembling a small black leech is a great nuisance, espe¬ 
cially on Pear trees. It is easily destroyed by dusting 
the leaves with freshly slaked lime. If you miss any the 
first time, dust again.—J. J). E. 


CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 

John Laing & Co., Stanstead Park, Forest Hill. 

Stephen Brown, Weston-super-Mare. 

Sutton & Sons, Heading, Berks. 

Watkins <fc Simpson (wholesale), Exeter Street, Strand, 
London, W.C. 

Wm. Samson & Co., 8 and 10, Portland Street, Kil¬ 
marnock. 

Henry Middlehurst, 11, Manchester Street, Liverpool 
C. Dimmick & Sons, The Nurseries, Hyde, Isle of 
Wight. 

Goldsmith & Co.. 118, York Road, Westminster Bridge 
Road, London, 8.E. 

B. Foster, London Road, Stroud. 

Arthur Jeffkins & Company, Westerham, Kent. 

Hogg & Wood, Coldstream andDunse, N.B. 

W. P. Laird & Sinclair, Dundee. 

William Bull, 630, King’s Road, Chelsea. 

Young, Oakenhead, & Co., 86, Patrick Street, Cork. 
Wm. Taifc Co., 119 and 120, Capel Street, Dublin. 
Daniels Bros., Norwich. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

102G3.— Improving a garden.— Work in 
as much road-scrapings as you please and a 
moderate amount of manure, but have nothing 
to do with Cocoa-nut fibre refuse for such a 
purpose; it does far more harm than good. Deep 
trenching is a great help, working cinder, er, 
better, wood-ashes if they can be got, in the 
ower spits. Near the surface, road-scrapings, 
leaf-mould, spent hops, or any similar light 
materials may be used. Also, throw up the 
surface roughly, so that the frost may get at it 
well; this will breajc 4$ up bitter than almost 

Digitized bv L,CK'gIe 


anything. Burnt (clay) ballast is a good addi¬ 
tion, or, if this cannot be got, burn some of the 
clay on the ground in heaps with slack. A crop 
or two of Potatoes is also very useful in pulver¬ 
ising stiff ground. The following seeds may be 
sown now for early flowering next spring:— 
Clarkia pulchella, Collinsias verna, bicolor, &c.; 
Cornflowers (Cvanus), Coreopsis tinctora, Bar- 
tonia. Candytuft, Eschscholtzia, Godetia, Gilia 
tricolor, Leptosiphon, Lupines, Nemophila, Lim- 
nanthes Douglasi, Silenes, Virginian Stock, &c. 
It is, however, well to bear in mind that autumn- 
sown annuals seldom do much good on a rough, 
cold, clay ; they require a rather light, open, 
and well drained soil to come to perfection.— 
B. C. R. 

10275.- Preparing garden ground.— 

The weeds and rubbish should be gathered 
altogether, and, when dry, burned, scattering 
the ashes over the ground. Then spread 4 or 
5 inches of manure over the surface, and dig it 
in well and deeply. If the subsoil seems hard 
and poor, and high cultivation is aimed at, it 
would be better to trench the ground at least 
two spades deep, working in a quantity of 
manure throughout. This, if the ground is at 
all light in character, should be heavy farmyard 
“ spit ” manure; but if the soil is already stiff, 
of a lighter description. For Roses it can hardly 
be too strong, or for vegetables either; but most 
flowering plants prefer old flaky manure, leaf- 
mould, &c. Let the surface lie as rough as 
possible through the winter, then in spring 
lightly turu over, level, and plant. Roses, shrubs, 
and fruit trees are, however, better planted in 
autumn, as a rule.—B. C. R. 

10293.— Cement for water-cans. — I 
use japanner’s gold sizs and litharge mixed 
and well rubbed up to a stiffish paste with a 
palette or other broad-bladed knife, on a thick 
glass or other slab, taking care that the article 
to be cemented or stopped is thoroughly dry. 
In some cases I use strips of calico, first of all 
putting on a coating of the cement over the leak, 
then pressing the calico down close and smooth, 
and finishing with more cement over all. Three- 
pennyworth of gold size and half-pound of 
litharge (costing about twopence) will enable 
“ T. S. C.” to keep his watering pots sound for 
years. It is a good plan, before putting cans 
away for the winter, to paint over all the seams 
with the above composition, both inside and out, 
using it the consistency of thick paint. Try it, 
and report experience.— S. Deyse. 

- I do not know of a cement for mending 

water-cans, but I can say that putty is an excel¬ 
lent material for stopping leaks in cans, water¬ 
ing pots, and galvanised buckets in which hot 
water is not used. It should be put on the 
inside of the vessel, and a little paint should be 
first applied round the leak to make the putty 
stick. It is so simple, effective, and durable 
that it is a wonder it is not more largely em¬ 
ployed for the purpose. I have known gardeners 
for a long time suffer the inconvenience of leaky 
watering pots when they have had the remedy 
close at hand, and two minutes’ work would have 
put matters right.—L. C. K. 

10255— Usea of poultry manure.— 
This manure may almost be used for anything 
in the way of soft-wooded plants indoors or 
green crops out of doors. It answers admirably 
for Vines. It is best used in a dry state; if it 
is laid up out of doors, it soon becomes a pasty 
mass. It may be used either new from the fowl- 
house, or after it has been laid up in a dry place 
for months. It is as strong as guano, and may 
be used with the compost of a Vine border in 
the proportion of a bushel to a large cartload. 
I have often used it as a surface-dressing to 
Vine borders with excellent results.—J. D. E. 

10302.— Insects on PanBies.— These are 
frequently attacked by a small red aphis, which 
does much damage to them. It is easily 
destroyed by dipping the plants in soft soapy 
water, 4 ounces to a gallon. The plants should 
always be transplanted from the cutting boxes 
into fresh compost. In doing this it will afford 
an opportunity to dip the plants. If you decide 
to keep the boxes in frames during winter the 
lights should be taken off whenever the weather 
is fine.—J. D. E. 

10279.— Sulphate of ammonia.— HaviDg 
noticed my name mentioned as supplying pure 
sulphate of ammonia, I would say I shall be 
pleased to send it to anyone, together with ad¬ 
vice and directions for its use; but my object in 


writing is to point out a serious error in the 
answer on p. 317, where 4 oz. to 8 oz. per gallon 
of water is quoted. A quantity like this would 
destroy the plants entirely. I never use more than 
half-an-ounce to the gallon for my strongest 
Chrysanthemums.—N. Davis. 

10200— Potting soil— In reply to “ Zig¬ 
zag,” I think he will find the following mixture 
suitable for most purposes, both for indoor and 
outdoor use : One part leaf-mould, one part 
rotten stable manure, two parts surface soil. For 
Roses or Phloxes the leaf-mould may be omitted. 
Nurserymen only can make it worth their while 
to make mixtures which they consider suitable 
to each plant.—B. 

10285.—Vegetable Marrows rottiQg. — Several 
of mine have played me the same trick. lu nearly every 
case the withered blooms had been picked or knocked 
off, which seems to be a fatal mistake.—R oger. 

1027L—Manure for garden —Stable manure is the 
very best material for your heavy clay soil; no other 
manure keeps the ground so dry and open. Cocoanut 
fibre, leaf mould, or road sand would be beneficial.— 
J. D. E. 

10220.—Have earwigs wings ? — Most certainly, 
and very beautiful they are. Earwigs will fly into h 
room at night, if there is a light when the windows are 
open.—A. B. T., East Anglia. 

10293.—Cement for water-cans.—I find Prout's 
elastic glue very useful for this purpose; it is very easily 
applied, providing the surface be dry, and lasts a long 
time.—B. C. R. 

-Solder.—R oger. 

10279.—Sulphate of ammonia.—I can supply this 
almost absolutely purj, and in any quantity.— B. C. 
RavENSCROFT, Granville Nursery, Lewisham. 


G. A. J.— From any good hardy tree nursery - 

IF. A. L.—lt you only want to keep out frost, the appa¬ 
ratus mentioned is as good a one as you can have, but if 
you want to keep up a good heat you must have a coil 

boiler and hot-water pipes.- W. V. F.—A coil would be 

the most suitable, we should think.- G. A. J.—From 

Messrs Canuell & Sons, Swanley, Kent. 

Working Mechanic. —See our advertisement columns. 

- H. D. F.—lt the plant has not been uamod, kindly 

send again- Honesty.—We could not give au opinion 

without seeing a copy of the seliediile of prizes. 

Names of Plants— O. V.— 1. Francos sonchifolia ; 

2, Escailonia macrantha ; 3. Herniaria glabra.- Miss 

Ramsden. -Silphium laciniatum.- J. Huish.-llya- 

cinthus candicans.- G. II. Sequeirra .—1, Aspidium 

angulare proliferum; 2 and 4, cannot name without 

spores; 3, Pfctria longifolia.- Be Waguf. — Apparently 

Malvastrum miniatum.- M. Kirkby.— Chrysanthemum 

Begetum.- Wiidcfuld — Anemone japonic:* alba.- 

Dried Fern .—We cannot name Ferns unless each frond 

has spores (seeds) at the back of It.- Candeur.— Cannot 

name from such a poor specimen.- N. B. —Mathiola 

bicornis(white).- R. A. B.— Tradescautia virginiea.- 

Elsie —Chrysanthemum coronarium, white and yellow ; 

C. segetum yellow- Seaton.— Gaillardia picta.- W. 

Charlesworth.—l, Centaurea montana; 2, Alstroemeria 

aurea; 3, Fmikia ovatn; 4, Liatris spicata.- W. L.— 

Malvamoschata alba (white); Coprosma lucida variegata 

(strub); Eupatorium ligustrlnutn (white).- C. P.— 

Ionopsidium ncaule.- Dtibio.— 1, Lastrea spinulosn; 

2, too small for identification; 3, Pteris serrulata cristata 

var. Dixoni; 4, Pteiis serrulata- Fanny Fern.— 1. 

Nephrolepis pectinata; Fern without number, Lastrea 

decomposita var. elegans.- C. M. Metcalf— Species 

of Datum — A. H. R.— Harpalium rigidum (yellow); 
Gaillardia picta- H. B. Farm, f on.—Franc! soea con¬ 

fer ti flora — H. T.—l, Impatiens glandifera; 2, Aspidium 

angulare proliferum.- Miss R. -Silphium laciniatum. 

- Salop.— Cerinthe nlpina.- T. E. H .—Yellow Loose¬ 
strife, other is Lysimachia vulgaris. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents .—All communica¬ 
tions for insertion should oe clearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only ami addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
and address qf the sender is required , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Querist 
should always bear the number and title of the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece qf paper. Owing to the necessity of 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day qf publication, it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

Naming plants .—Four plants, fruits, or flowers only 
can be named at one time, and this only when good 
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name 
varieties qf florists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
specialist who has the means qf comparison at hand. Any 
communication respecting plants or flowers sent to name 
should always accompany the parcel. 

10328.—Gloire de Dijon Rose.—Last autumn I 
planted a small Gloire de Dijon Rose in an unheated 
lean-to greenhouse 18 feet by 9 feet. It mado no pro¬ 
gress until this spring, but it has been, and is now, grow- 
mg in a manner that excites my utter astonishment. It 
is in the centre of the house, one side is completely 
covered by it, and the other nearly so. A few buds 
showed themselves in the summer and I cut them, the 
result on the growth being that each cut bough has 
thrown out three or four strong shoots, which are already 
at the top of the house, i.e., piore than 5 feet long. I 
do not see any sign of blooming yet, and it is probably 
too early, but I should like to knov whether I ought to 




Sept. 22, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


laare it alone or prune back, and what extent. I 
should add that two months ago a quantity of young 
wood was cut out of it.—H. C., Winchester 
10320.—Crickets in hothousos.-My stove house 
has been swarmed with crickets all summer, and now I 
And the greenhouse haa cockroaches and wood lice. Gar¬ 
deners are used to peats of ail kiuds, but, thanks to Gis- 
fcuret and others, many can be cleared in a short time, but 
crickeu. Ac., beat all tried and advertised remedies. I 
hive spent pounds, but all to little use. Can any gardener 
»ive mo bis experience ? Hot water only increases them. I 
have little pleasure with my work ; my grand Begonias 
are eaten down with them.-W., Burton. 

10330 .—“ Throttle va’ve,” where placed.—My 
greenhouse is divided into three parts, say A, B, C ; the 
boiler situated where A B adjoin. Desiring to heat A or 
A b or A IK' as needed, which is best to have—one How 
or two flow pipes, one lor A and the other for B C, at¬ 
tached to a T piece on boiler socket ? Is one or two 
valves needed where A and B and B C are connected ? II 
oq|v one valve, is that fixed on flow pipe or on cross pipe 
of T piecs? Ihe advantages and disadvantages ol the 
respective plans above would oblige.—C. GRAVEN HALL. 

1033L.-The Musa Enaete.— I have three dozen 
plants of Musa Eusete raised from seed this year. They 
are bedded out now. What treatment must I give them 
during winter? Are they biennial or perennial? At 
present they are about 3 feet high, and some ol the 
leaves are 2 feet 6 inches long and 12 inches wide. Is this 
good growth for the first year from seed ? It la a grand 
plant for decoration. I should be obliged for all the in¬ 
formation I can get about it.— Omega, St. Lawrence, 
Jersey. 

10332 —Disease in Hollyhocks.—Will someone 
kindly tell me what I can do to save a quantity of good 
seedling Hollyhocks, which I fear are attacked with the 
fungus pest. The young leaves are healthy, but, as they 
get larger, show signs of the disease. I have powdered 
them with sulphur, with no good result. My large plants 
are alio infected, but, as th« disease appeared late, it did 
not affect their blooming well. Had I better cut these down 
close or root them up? Information on this subject will 
be gratefully received.— E. Culveuhoc.se. 

10333.— Wintering! Ferns —I have a small green¬ 
house devoted to a mixed collection of plants, amongst 
which are several Ferns, in fact a shelf is allotted to 
them, whereupon they are planted out, having been 
raised from seed. I should be glad of advice as to the 
best way of wintering them. The average temperature 
in winter in my greenhouse is 60° to 65° by day, and 
40° to 45 a by night. 1 have some Adiantums in pots by 
themselves.—A. 11. M. 

10334.—Manure water for Parsnips—I am 
obliged by ‘‘J. D. E.V’ reply in gardening of August 
25 to my query re Parsnips, but he does not touch the 
question of liquid manure. I can get plenty of liquid 
manure, but not of farmyard manure, and shall therefore 
be glad to be informed whether It will be well during the 
winter mouths to water with liquid manure the ground 
intended for Parsnips next year, also whether the Parsnips 
may bo so watered whilst growing.—E. H. H. 

10335.— Ferns in greenhouse. -I have a green¬ 
house without heating apparatus, which gets very little 
snn, and in which Ferns thrive very well indeed. When 
they die in the winter what is the best manure to use for 
them in order to bring them up fairly early and strong ? 
I thought of using Peruvian guano as being a much 
stronger manure than horse manure, as more easy of use 
and better adapted for pot3. Is guano a good manure 
for other plauta in pots?—O. C., Pimlico. 

10336.—Tomato cutting^.—I have had a splendid 
crop of Tomatoes (not yet exhausted) by growing them as 
directed in Gardening in an unheated greenhouse and 
large pots. Would it bo advisable to take cuttings from 
these plants, which look somewhat exhausted from the 
large erop of fruit produced ? Would someone give me a 
few practical directions as to cuttings from Tomatoes ? I 
have the last two volumes of Gardening, but do not see 
any.—H. C. 

10337.— Denyer's Victoria Plum — Will Mr. J. 
Groom, or any other reader be kind enough to say 
where I can get a genuine Denyer’s Victoria Plum tree, 
stating the price, and which would be the bast to plant 
against a wall—standard, dwarf, or pyramid ? The reason I 
mention Mr. Groom is because he wrote about the plant 
in Gardening, June 30.— Yorkshire. 

10338.— Nicotiana afflnis.— I have a plant of this in 
a pot, which has now ceased to bloom, but is sending up 
shoots from the base. Is it any use keeping the plant, 
and if so, what treatment should be pursued ? I am 
quite Ignorant as to whether the plant is an annual or 
perennial. I should say it is kept In a bay window 
facing nearly south.—J. D., Brixton. 


10339.— Storingr Potatoes.—Kindly say best way to 
store a small quantity of Early Rose Potatoes, also some 
Flounders. At present I have them in wooden boxes in 
a dry outhouse, keeping the Potatoes for seed next year. 
My Gooseberry trees are very low, with branches growing 
into the ground. Is this a good time to cut away green 
shoots ?— Limerick. 


10340.—Plants not needing: manure.—wm 
someone kindly give me a list of garden flowers that are 
injured by manure being applied to them ? At present 
I use it indiscriminately, but I read in Gardening that 
manure is poison to Funkias, also to Ferns. I am sure 
amateurs would be glad and grateful for information on 
this point.—E. G. C. 

10341.—Mildew on Peach trees.—I have two 
Royal George Peach trees which, although bearing well, 
always mildew. Can anyone kindly tell me how to 
remedy this ? I have put some sulphur on the fruit, but 
It teems to have burnt it; and each fruit Is very much 
ihrivellfcd. The soil is stifflsh loam. The leaves also 
mildew.—W.W. B. 

10342.—Lily not blooming.—I potted a bulb of 
L longiflorium last autumn in a mixture of peat, loam, 
tad sand, but although it has looked healthy all the 
wanmer there is no sign of bloom yet. A number of 
young shoots are making their appearance. Will some 

reader kindly say how I can succeed better anothi- 

-J. D., Brixton. ^ 



10343.— Wistaria not blooming.— A Wistaria that 
I have had planted about fourteen years (but It has never 
flowered) has two shoots coming out just level with the 
ground; should I cut them off and plant them, or will it 
weaken the plant too much if I leave them on? What can 
I do to make them flower another year?—E lsie, 
Leicester. 

10344.— Catting glass —I am building a greenhouse, 
and have been recommended to use Belgian glass. I find 
it very difficult to cut, as although the diamond I use (a 
common glazier's diamond) appears to score a line on the 
glass, it frequently breaks in another direction. Can any 
reader give me some hints on the subject?— CONSTANT 
Reader. 

10345.—Management of Lilies.—I want instruc¬ 
tions for the management of Lilies in general—Scar¬ 
borough Lily in particular ; also Milla biflora and Freesia 
refracta alba. When to plant, ought one to repot every 
year, in what soil, what is to be done after flowering, 
and where to keep during winter 7—ICHTHUS, Ntioark-on- 
Trent. 

10340. —Mushrooms in boxes.—I have planted a 
box with some Mushroom spawn according to the direc¬ 
tions given in Gardening Illustrated, March 3rd, 
1883. Should the soil (which Is very dry now) be 
watered with tepid water, and how often? The Mush¬ 
rooms are very slow in coming up. —Elsie, Leicester. 

10347.—Cutting back Araucarias.-1 have an 
Araucaria lmbricata about 9 feet high—a very good one ; 
it is getting too large for the position it is iu. Will it bear 
cutting ba.-k? I should have stated that it is the lower 
branches on one side up to about 0 feet high that I 
thought of cutting back.—Q. 

10318—Wintering Geraniums.—I have only a 
room to winter my Geraniums In ; they have been in the 
garden in pots n'l the summer. When taken up before 
frost sets in should they be re potted or not disturbed till 
the spring beyond cutting off the roots that have come 
through the pots ?—D. R. 8. 

10349.— Salmon-coloured Geraniums— Is there 
a salmon-coloured Geranium called Gustave Morlet? 1 had 
a cutting given me last year with this name. It is a very 
large bloom. 1 cannot find the name in any catalogue, 
and am afraid it is a mistake ; it is like Ellen.—L. A. N.. 
Shropshire. 

10350.—Dwarf.Cauliflowers.—I shall be glad to be 
informed of the name of a dwarf, compact growing Cauli¬ 
flower,which, while not requiring to be sown under glass, 
will be ready for cutting from early In August. The time 
to sow and distance apart to plant will oblige.—E. H. S. 

10351.—Obtaining double flowers-- Can plants 
bearing single flowers oe made to produce double flowers? 
1 am told that it is done, but cannot ascertain the pro¬ 
cess. Could I attempt it with any chance of success, 
being only a beginner at gardening work?—T. W. T. 

10352 —Good Rosea.—I shall feel obliged for the 
names of twenty-four good H.P. Roses having the follow¬ 
ing qualifications: freedom of bloom, good shuped 
flowers, moderate growth, and, above all things, 
hardiness?—G ang Forward. 

10353.—Spots on Rose leaves. —Some of ray 
Roses are still iu blossom, but the leaves are covered 
with brown spots which entirely spoil the beauty of the 
plaut. Will anyone be good enough to say what is the 
cause of these spots ?-Ro3E. 

10354.—Soil for Roses.—Will sods which have been 
dug a month answer to renew the soil in a Rose bed, and 
also may pig manure two or three months old be used in 
manuring Roses, or should a little stable manure be 
mixed with it ?—A. F. 

10355.—Gum for Fern fronds.—Can anyone give 
me a recipe for making a gum that will hold Fern fronds 
In an album, as 1 find the ordinary solution of gum arable 
of no avail—the fronds breaking away as soon as the gum 
is dry?—'W. H. S. 

10356.—Clipping hedges.—Will some experienced 
person be kind enough to say if it injures a Thorn hedge 
to clip it twice in the year, so as to keep it always neat? 
My hedge is an old one, and is in an extremely exposed 
locality.— Thorn. 

10367.—Weedy lawns.—I have a small grass plot 
which, in spite of my efforts, brings up more weeds than 
grass. What cau I do to keep down the weeds ? Is lawn 
sand any good? and if so. how can I make use of it?— 
ANTIWEED. 

10368.—Strawberries.—What is considered a good 
crop of Strawberries per acre, and how much may a 
grower hope to make per acre by raising Strawberries in 
a situation admirably Butted for them ?—Kooky, Wilts. 

10359.—Cucumbers failing.—I have some Cucum¬ 
ber plants fruitiug freely, but when the fruits are about 
4 inches or 6 inches long they commence to turn yellow. 
Would someone kindly give me a remedy ?— Amateur. 

10360.—Libonla floribunda —I have several plants 
of Libonla floribunda which are very straggling in their 
growth. Would they be the better for being cut back, 
and what sort of soil should they be repotted in 7 -Q. 

10301.—Climbers for house.—Will any reader 
kindly inform me which would be the best and most 
ornamental climbers to plant against the side of a dwel¬ 
ling house? Aspect north, soil graveL—H. L. W. 

10362. —Climbing plants.— Will someone be good 
enough to tell me the names of a few good climbing 
plants suitable for a conservatory—some that are ever¬ 
green and will flower freely also?—C limber. 

10363 —Sowing Brussels Sprouts.—On or about 
what date should Brussels Sprouts be sown in East 
Derbyshire te turn in early in the following year ? The 
plants would remain where sown.—E. H. H. 

10304 —Tropeeolumspeciosum.—Are the bulbs of 
Tropreolum speeioaum (FlameNasturtium) obtained from 
nurserymen In a dry state, to be planted now, and stand 
our northern winters ?—T. W., Carnforth. 

10365.—Propagating Draceenas —I have got a 
Dracwna lineata 9 feet high. If I cut off the top, would It 
strike ? It is too high for the house, and I mud do some¬ 
thing of the kind with it.—9. H. 


329 


103G6.— Propagating Blackberries.— I have a 
Wilson Blacknerry, which I find very good ; I am anxious 
to propagate it. Will any reader kindly tell me the proper 
way?—W. L. O. 

10307.—Preserving Ashberries.— Would someone 
kindly tell me how 1 could preserve berries of the Moun¬ 
tain Ash so that they would be good for winter decora¬ 
tion ?—Erin. 

10368.—Cissus discolor.— Would any reader of 
GakdENING give a few hints on tho culture of this 
climber—the lowest temperature it can be well grown in ? 
—JN. Lr. 

10369.—Dandelion as a salad.—I want informa¬ 
tion as to the cultivation of the Dandelion as a salad. 
Are the leaves or is the root used for the purpose ? — 
Al. E. A. 

10370.—Hop culture.—Can any correspondent tell 
me where I can get a good work on Hops and Hop cul¬ 
ture, how to form a plantation, and its management ? — 
How. 

10371.—Heating portable greenhouse—What 
would be a suitable means of heating a portable green¬ 
house 8 feet by U feet ? Oil is too expensive.—IV C. F. 

10372.—Culture of Bouvardias.— Could some reader 
of Gardening give me a few hints on tho general culture 
of Bouvardias ?—C. A. 

10373 -Commellna ccslestis.—Will any reader 
kindly give a description of the habit, flower, and culture 
of above?—T. J. W. 

10374.—Am pelopsls Veltchi.— Will this grow well, 
and climb on a wall splashed with mortar?—IcilTflUS. 

10376. — Coprosma Bauerlana varlegata. — 

What is the best soil for potting this plant in ?—Q. 

Love-in-a-mist —A dwarf annual with pale blue 
j flowers and foliage somewhat resembling Fennel-some¬ 
times called Devil-in-a-bush. Can anyone tell me the 
right name?—B. [Nigella tlamascena). 


BBSS. 


SEASONABLE NOTES. 

The season now closing has been somewhat 
unfavourable to the bee keeper, and disappoint¬ 
ing to beginners (in many ouses) in this interest¬ 
ing pursuit. The wet weather and chilly nights 
experienced in many parts of the country during 
the latter part of June and throughout July, 
prevented the Lime blossoms and White Clover 
yielding much honey. Most of the surplus 
honey stored in sections and supers was gathered 
before the end of June. Swarming was also 
unusually late, very few swarms rising before 
the first week in June. Of over thirty stocks of 
bees lately driven by the writer (to save them 
from the cottagers’ brimstone pits), not more 
than a third were in a tit 6tate for wintering. 
Taking the season altogether, although slightly 
better than last year, it will have to be put down 
as under the average in honey yield. 

Wintebino.— In successful wintering much 
depends upon stocks being strong in numbers, 
and heavy in stores. All stocks, therefore, that 
are weak in numbers, should now be joined 
two or three together. If in bar-frame hives 
they can be strengthened by giving them combs 
of brood from strong hives, or two weak colonies 
can be united by placing the combs (with the 
adhering bees) of one hive in the hive it is 
wished to join them to, first blowing a little 
smoke into each hive, which will induce the bees 
to fill themselves with honey, and cause them to 
unite peacefully; during the operation one of 
the queens can be removed. Stimulative feeding 
should now be practised, to induce the queen to 
go on laying, and so ensure a large number of 
young bees in the hive for the winter, ready for 
work when the spring flowers appear. In stimu¬ 
lative feeding the syrup is given in a feeder so 
regulated that only a small amount of food can 
be taken by the bees at a time. It must, how¬ 
ever, be discontinued before the middle of Octo¬ 
ber, and all hives with less than 20 pounds of 
sealed stores fed np rapidly to that weight at 
least. The syrup used for stimulative feeding 
should consist of sugar and water, the pro¬ 
portions being 7 pints of water to 10 pounds 
of sugar; that for feeding np for winter, li 
pints of water to 10 pounds of sugar, boiled for 
a few minutes, with the addition of an ounce of 
vinegar and half-an-ounce of salt. Bees cluster 
upon empty combs as near the middle as pos¬ 
sible; the honey is stored in the side combs, and 
the middle combs used for brood raising; there¬ 
fore the side combs, if filled half way down, may 
be inserted in the middle, so that the stores will 
be near the cluster. The bees must be crowded 
into as small a space as possible by division 
boards, one on either side of tho frame, and the 
space between the division boards and the sides 
of the hive filled with chaff or cork dust, or, 
better still, small oushioDs may be used the size 
of the division board, stuffed with cork dust and 
sewn through and through to keep them in shape, 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[8ept. 12 , 1883. 


330 


and also to fit on top of the frames over the 
qoilt. These will be found to be famous draught 
excluders, and are easily removed when neces¬ 
sary for examination of the hive. 

Candy is sometimes given to bees for 
wintering upon. It is made by boiling about 
three-quarters of a pint of water, and 
gradually stirring into it six pounds of 
loaf sugar, keeping it stirred to prevent burning. 
To test when it is sufficiently done, a little is 
dropped on a plate ; if it sets hard when cool it 
is done. The candy is then poured into bar- 
frames (laid over a piece of paper; on a flat 
surface), and is inserted in the hive next the 
cluster, closing up with the division board; or 
it may be poured into saucers on paper; the hot 
syrup will settle the paper into form, and the 
paper will prevent sticking. In this form it may 
be placed over the frames with the paper upper¬ 
most, which will prevent it sticking to the quilt. 

Winter passages.—To enable the bees to 
reach their stores in the combs adjoining the 
bee nest, each comb should have a hole cut 
through it, three inches from the top, and about 
half an inch in diameter. If there are no holes 
for the bees to pass through, it necessitates their 
going round the ends of the frames, which causes ; 
them to get chilled in cold weather. To make 
these passage holes, it is only necessary to pass 
a narrow-bladed knife through the comb and 
twist it round, or a little instrument called a pas¬ 
sage cutter may be used; it is a tin tube having the 
edge serrated like a saw. A wooden plunger works 
inside it. The edge is passed through the comb, 
with a circular motion, and on withdrawing it, 
the piece removed from the comb is driven out 
of the tube by the wooden plunger. These winter 
passages are, however, unnecessary where candy 
is given over the frames under the quilt, as the 
space the candy occupies gives the bees oppor¬ 
tunity to pass over the frames. In bar-frame 
hives the combs do not touch the sides, the heat 
therefore escapes round them, and extra pre¬ 
caution is necessary to keep up the temperature. 
The wintering of bees in straw hives is attended 
with much less trouble and risk. The combs being 
built against the top and sides, the heat is well 
maintained, so that with sufficient store of food 
(about twenty pounds of sealed honey) and with 
ample protection from the weather, stocks in 
straw hives are pretty sure to pass through the 
winter safely. S. S. G. 

Soxworth. 


POULTRY. 

Fowls for the table.— Most poultry 
keepers desire to possess a breed of fowls which 
combine the two qualities of laying and 
presenting a decent appearance when killed and 
placed on the table. It is sad to see how many 
of our best varieties are bred by fanciers, having 
regard only to plumage, comb, and other fancy 
points, while size and quality of flesh are utterly 
ignored. Even our old favourite, the Plymouth 
Rock, a thorough utility bird, has not escaped 
the present absurd regulations laid down by 
judges as to colour of plumage and size and 
carriage of its tail. We saw two entire columns 
devoted to the discussion of this latter quality, 
if it can be called such, by a contemporary a few 
weeks since. The Plymouth Rocks and the 
Houdans we consider to be the best fowls 
possessing laying and eating qualities combined. 
The flesh of both is firm and delicate, while they 
are of good size and shape. A judicious cross 
also produces capital table fowls, and the one we 
generally recommend is the Game or Malay 
crossed with the Brahma. Here you get the 
delicate flavour of the former and the size of 
the latter. If a Malay cock, two years old, be 
run with half a dozen large dark Brahma hens, 
the result of the cross will sure to prove satis¬ 
factory. Let the cock be a good shaped, 
sprightly bird, with broad back and prominent 
breast, and the hens large, long birds, and as 
low on the leg as possible. Let colour of 
plamage, size, and shape of comb be a secondary 
consideration, and if the hens be but slightly 
feathered on legs, so much the better. Hatch 
the chickens early in March, and with proper 
food and attention they will in three or four 
months time prove ready for the cook. Another 
good cross is the Houdan-Brahma (Houdan cock 
to Brahma hens). Always feed growing stock 
on the best of grain and meal; it is the cheapest 
in the end, and the lOw^priced grains knd poultry 

QjO gfc 


gm 


mixtures advertised are dear at any price where 
plump well-grown birds are desired at an early 
age. Eggs, however, must not be forgotten, and 
either of the above crosses will produce very fair 
layers. Much may be done by gradually 
building up a laying strain, which is done by 
breeding only from hens which have proved 
themselves to be capital layers, and discarding 
the eggs laid by indifferent layers. It is 
astonishing what can be done by following this 
plan for a season or two.— Andalusian. 

To make fowls lay In winter.— 
Referring to an article in Gardening under the 
above heading, I should be glad if the writer 
would state how high he would have the house, 
and how the door, Ac., would be arranged, as by 
the plan recommended the floor would be 
gradually raised from 10 feet to 15 feet high. 
Would not the smell from the decaying manure 
be injurious to the health of the fowls?— 
Amateur. 

Fatting fowls.— The method usually 
adopted in this country is to shut up each fowl 
in a small space, or in one of the boxes made for 
the purpose, and it must be placed in the dark. 
Give no food for at least six or eight hours at 
first, and then feed three times a day on well 
boiled, crumbly Indian meal, barley or oatmeal 
porridge. Remove what is left both of food and 
water as soon as the bird is satisfied. If “ B ” j 
chooses, he can cram the birds by dropping pellets 
of the meal into their months until the crop 
is full, in which case he must make sure that the 
crop is empty when he begins. Fatting may be 
continued for three weeks, after that the bird 
sickens. “ B ” must remember that only fat is 
added daring this time, for which no one cares. 
If the same amount of food and care were 
bestowed on young chickens running free, the 
result would be a larger frame-work well covered 
with good flesh.— Asok. 

Plymouth Rooks. —I have four cockerels 
and two pullets from some Plymouth Rock eggs. 
They are handsome birds, three months old. 

I should be glad to know whether they ought 
to have feathers on their legs, which they all 
have except one cockerel. I have been told it is 
wrong. As I wish to sell some of them, the in¬ 
formation I seek would he useful.—L. A. N., 
Shropshire. 


BIRDS. 

Young canaries dying —For a number 
of years I have kept canaries in an outdoor 
aviary. Only once or twice during that time 
have I been successful as a breeder. Some years 
I have reared three or four, but for the greater 
number of years—this present among them—I 
have reared no young birds at all. By the cor¬ 
respondence in your paper, J see this is a very 
common complaint, and that numerous sugges¬ 
tions have from time to time been made as to 
the cause. Some recommend the putting of only 
one hen and cock bird together; others suggest 
two or three hens. I may say that I have tried 
these several ways, and with much the same 
results. One year I put together three cocks 
and eight hens; I had about forty young birds. 
Several times since I have tried on the same 
lines, but with very indifferent success. Every¬ 
thing goes on all right until the young are about 
ten days or a fortnight old, when the old birds 
seem to neglect them, and they die. For this 
very unnatural conduct there must be a cause. 
Is it to be attributed to their being kept in con¬ 
finement, or is it the food or treatment that is 
wrong ? It would be very useful as well as in¬ 
teresting if the point coaid be cleared up.—A 
Correspondent. 

Treatment of canaries.— As my expe¬ 
rience of this subject differs somewhat from that 
of “ Nil Desperandum,” perhaps I may be 
allowed to state it. I never give rape, but canary 
seed, linseed occasionally, and maw seed in 
quantity, especially when the young birds are a 
week old; it is then used in preference to any¬ 
thing else by the old ones, egg excepted. With 
the egg I mix the shell finely pounded, also 
biscuit or sponge cake, and when the young 
begin to peck about, I give them pounded 
canary seed, which soon gets them on to the 
whole seed. Then, as to green food, which is 
supplied liberally to both old and young, 
groundsel, which your correspondent avoids, I 
give freely, also chickweed and shepherd's purse, 
but this last should not be given to the young 


under a month old, as they seem unable to 
digest it, but the old birds prefer it. Ripe plan¬ 
tain, of course, they have, and I should be glad 
to know of other green foods suitable. If some 
of your correspondents would send lists of foods 
it would be a great assistance. One bird began 
to sing at three w.-eks old; at that age they 
enjoy a deep bath very much. The sitting hen 
should always have a bath, especially in hot 
weather. Early in the season I lost several 
young birds, but since giving the hen the wire 
netting nest holdei, all has gone on well. A piece 
of flannel should ho sown inside the wire, and 
when the young are old enough to handle, I re¬ 
move the built nest, and put in a piece of loose 
flannel, which can he easily removed when soiled, 
a little insect powder is sprinkled between the 
flannels, and I have not seen any red mites as yet. 
On the last occasion the hen laid six eggs, and 
hatched five. I had to assist three of these young 
ones out of the shell, as for some reason they 
failed to get clear of it; two of these died after 
a few days, but the rest are as strong as possible. 
This time the hen built a very slight lining to 
the nest—it was as if instinct warned her that 
plenty of room would be required. After moult¬ 
ing freely, she has now begun to lay again. I 
have never known this to occur before, and would 
remove her, only she and her mate continue to 
feed their young. Tropxolum canariense has 
not much to do with canaries, but I am reminded 
to ask if anyone could say if the seeds are 
edible, as are those of the Nasturtium, less known 
as “ Indian Cress ” Tropxolum.—(J. A. J. 

Parrots’ talons.—Way the talons of parrots be'.cut? 
My parrot appears to catch his talons in the wtrework 
of his cage. I ilon't like to cut them without some in¬ 
formation.— C. Smakt. 


AQUARIA. 


Management of an aquarium —Will 

some reader instruct me how to manage an 
aquarium? I have built cue in a cool greenhouse, 
brick sides, floor and back cemented, and glass 
front, 3 feet long, 1 foot 9 inches wide, and I 
foot depth of water. Half of bottom is covered 
with rough sandstone and white China stone 
and the other half small grave 1. It is divided 
into two parts, both accessible to the fish by imi¬ 
tation rockwork made of virg'n cork on wood 
frame. I put two gold fish in a month ago ; one 
is dead, and the other is almost covered with a 
hard slimy substance resembling large water 
blisters, the effects of burns. I part empty it 
daily and supply fresh spring water, and have 
given them a small quantity of bread as food. 
Have I done right, or what should I do ?— 
T. H. S. 

Bell-glass aquarium— In Gardening 
of June 1C I read a capital account of an 
aquarium by “ W. R.,” and as I had a bell-glass 
12 inches in diameter, with two goldfish, one 
silverfish, and two minnows in it, I immediately 
planted three small plants of Vallisneria spiralis 
in a 6-inch shallow saucer; since then I have 
lost one minnow, and the other fish becoming 
drowsy, I removed the worst gold one into fresh 
water, which has revived it. I have now removed 
plants, as I fear that is the cause. I may add, I 
planted the Vallisneria in white sand, and 
cleaned the glass out according to “ W. R.’s ’’ 
instructions. I have had my fish about a year, 
and feed them on lambs’ lungs, well dried and 
grated very fine. If “W. R.” can sugest any 
reason for my disaster, I should feel grateful. 
My Vallisneria throws up long stems with a 
spoon-shaped leaf.—K. M. S. 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 

Elder Flower wine— Gather only the 
blossoms. Boil them in 2 gallons of water with 
6 pounds of sugar for half an hour. When cold, 
take a piece of bread dipped in barm and fer¬ 
ment it for twenty-four hours ; then put in 
1 peok of blossoms and put the whole into a 
cask, stir it twice a day for a week, add 1 pint 
of brandy, and stop it close. In five weeks it 
may be bottled.—T. T. I*. 

Pickled Tomatoes.—Green Tomatoes may be added 
with other vegetables in making mixed pickles, but they 
are not so good pickled alone I llud. —Mofcssilitk. 

To make mead.— How is this made ?—Vkra. 


Maltese terrier.—Questions respecting dogs are 
out oi oui province. 


GARDENING • ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. V. 


THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE. 


Fruit Culture. 

BEFORE bringing to a close the present series 
of papers on the capabilities of the unheated 
greenhouse, it may not be out of place to make 
some reference to fruit culture in the same 
simple structures—a branch of the subject which 
may possess greater interest for many persons 
than the cultivation of flowers. In many parts 
of the country it is impossible—without protec¬ 
tion—to ripen the better kinds of wall fruit at 
all; and, owing to the prevalence of late spring 
frosts, which too often cut off for the whole 
season the hope of a fair crop, it is, at best, a 
matter of great uncertainty whether any 
adequate return is reaped for the money and 
labour expended; whereas, by good cultivation 
under glass, a supply of the best of fruit may 
almost be guaranteed. I say good cultivation 
advisedly, for carelessness and ignorance will 
surely earn their reward in this as in other cases. 
For the comfort of amateurs, however, it may 
be put upon record that they are reckoned to be 
amongst t he most successful of fruit cultivators, 
probably because enthusiasm comes to their aid 
and carries them through whatever may be toil¬ 
some in the work to be done. 

Grapes. 

Of all fruits, Grapes are, for the inexperienced, 
the easiest to be grown with success, for this 
reason,perhaps, that Vines will undergo a greater 
amount of ill-treatment without permanent in¬ 
jury than other fruit trees will bear. With in¬ 
telligent cultivation, Vines in an unheated glass¬ 
house will give a very good return of excellent 
Grapes in due season; but only such varieties 
must be grown as are suited to the position, and 
we must be content to wait for our crop until 
the end of September and October. The simplest 
and most inexpensive way in which Vines may 
be grown with success, is under a glass-ridge, or 
“ curate's ” vinery. For this so little space is 
required, that a suburban garden of very modest 
extent will suffice, supposing it to have a toler¬ 
ably good aspect with a sunny exposure. Ground 
vineries are available for very many purposes, 
and I know of no more useful adjuncts to the 
amateur’s garden than a number of these inex¬ 
pensive little frames. The first I ever had were 
purchased some eighteen years ago at a cost of 
about 15s. each, from Mr. Rivett, the original 
maker, and are still inuse, though now becoming 
somewhat dilapidated. These have been sup¬ 
plemented by many others made after the same 
pattern by a village carpenter, though not quite 
so cheaply. Peach, Nectarine, and Apricot trees 
on the cordon system, may be cultivated under 
these glass-ridges with success, as they afford 
protection from spring frosts when the bloom is 
at the critical stage, and it is easy to cover them 
with thick mats, or other frost proof material 
when necessary. On the whole, however, they 
are more suitable for Vine cnlture. In the case 
of Vines, the aspect of the glass ridges should 
be north-east and south-west, and it is recom¬ 
mended that they should be placed on a double 
row of bricks, which will allow of a double set 
of apertures at 4 inches apart to allow of free 
ventilation. The floor of the vinery Bhould be 
paved, or, better still, tiled, because tiles absorb 
and retain sun heat to a remarkable degree. This 
is mentioned, if I mistake not, by the late Mr. 
Thos. Rivers, of Sawbridgworth, in his “ Minia¬ 
ture Fruit Garden,” as an improvement 
on the older plan of placing the glass ridge 
over a slated furrow. The Vine is planted in the 
centre of the ridge, and trained along a wire, 
and should be pegged down between the slates 
or tiles. The bunches of Grapes, as they increase 
in size, grow down to the floor, and may actually 
lie upon it, not only without detriment, but 
with great benefit to their early ripening from 
the intense heat given out by the tiles. The 
glass ridge should, for Vine culture, be made 
with hinges along one side in order that it may 
easily be lifted when required for training and 
thinning of the Grapes. It must be understood 
that, though thorough ventilation is all impor¬ 
tant, yet the glasses must remain over the Vines 


SEPTEMBER 29, 1883. 


throughout the whole year, except, perhaps, for 
a very short time in autumn. This is not the 
case with Peaches and other fruit trees, from 
which it is necessary to remove the glasses at 
certain seasons. Early Strawberries may be 
well cultivated under these useful little frames. 
They should be planted early in autumn, 9 
inches apart each way, in good, rich soil, and 
carefully attended to with water and surface¬ 
dressing. The glasses should be put od in 
November, and removed after the fruit is 

f athered. Strawberries thus treated will ripen 
ully three weeks before those in the open beds. 
A much more interesting, but more ambitious 
mode of Grape culture, than the one just 
touched upon, is that which has been called the 
“Vineyard under glass.” and one to which I 
should like especially to direct attention, as I 
cannot help thinking that it might be more 
generally adopted with success than it hitherto 
seems to have been. In a recent visit to Mr. 
Rivers’s fruit-growing establishment at Saw¬ 
bridgworth, I saw the original house (20 feet 
by 12 feet) in which this method of culture used 
to be carried on; but after fully proving its 
adaptability to Grape growing, the house had, to 
my regret, been turned to other accounts of more 
general value to the nursery. I can, however, 
imagine no more pleasant nor desirable mode of 
cultivating Vines in an unheated house, more 
especially for lady gardeners, of whom nowadays 
there are not a few. The house suited to this 
purpose is a small span-roofed structure, with a 
pathway down the middle and a border at each 
side in which the Vines are planted. These are 
trained to upright iron rods of about 4 feet high, 
so that all the fatigue and strain to neck and 
eyes can be avoided, in the training of the Vines 
and thinning of the Grapes, which must neces¬ 
sarily be attendant on roof or rafter culture. 

Before Grape growing should be attempted at 
all, a certain amount of knowledge must be 
gained as to soil, modes of pruning, training, 
and general culture; but these need not be 
entered into here, as such help is within reach 
of every one. The management of such a vinery 
is simple in the extreme, and can be learnt with 
the greatest ease by any practical amateur. I 
may note that one important detail, as it was 
pointed out to me, consists in untying the rods 
every season, and letting them lie prostrate 
until the sap has risen and the leaf-buds have 
well broken, otherwise you will make stan¬ 
dards rather than bushes of your Vines, which 
is not desirable. I scarcely think that this 
mode of Grape growing has received the atten¬ 
tion which it deserves from the small cultivator. 
One reason of this may possibly be that the 
amateur too frequently expects his vinery to do 
double and even treble duty, and not only to 
give him an abundant harvest of Grapes, but to 
house his summer flowering plants and to win¬ 
ter his bedding Geraniums. One important 
element in successful Grape growing in the 
miscellaneous house to which I now refer, I 
believe to be that it should be cleared of 
its contents during the summer months. 
In winter, when the Vines are at rest, and 
in early spring, a vinery may be used with¬ 
out injury to the Vines, for many purposes, 
but it is hopeless to attempt to grow Grapes 
successfully and flowering plants together. 
Neither do well, and, moreover, the fact is gene¬ 
rally acknowledged, yet it is the commonest 
thing to find the attempt being made. A striking 
instance of this came under my notice only a 
week or two since, in a large, handsome unheated 
structure into which the drawing-room and 
dining-room of a good house opened. The 
Vines, loaded with fair-sized half-grown bunches, 
were in a pitiable state of mildew, while the un¬ 
lucky pot plants beneath their shade—many of 
which were valuable and chosen with more than 
ordinary knowledge and judgment—showed only 
too plainly the mistaken management to 
which they were subjected. The entire aspect 
of the house reminded me forcibly that we ama¬ 
teurs, as a rule, attempt too much, and brought 
home the lesson that it would be better to con¬ 
centrate our energies more upon some one 
branch of culture, following the good lead of 
rosarians in this respect. Fruit growing, in par¬ 


No. 238. 


ticular, is worthy of being taken up as a 
“ specialty,” and the successful cultivator gene¬ 
rally gives his undivided attention to this—his 
particular “ hobby.” 

Varieties.— In buying Vines for an uuheated 
house, it is essential to make a good selection, 
otherwise nothing but failure can result, certain 
hardy varieties only being suitable. The Black 
Hamburgh has never been superseded amongst 
purple Grapes, but the advice of an experienced 
grower should be followed as to newer sorts. In 
a large establishment, such as that at Saw¬ 
bridgworth, where the capabilities of Vines are 
being constantly tested, examples may be seen 
of the best varieties, and a choice made accord¬ 
ing to the requirements of the house in which it 
is proposed to grow them. One of the most 
beautiful of purple Grapes in size and colour of 
berry at Sawbridgworth is Gros Maroc—a Vine 
raised by a French grower, but which has hither¬ 
to met with scant favour in England, though it 
has been many years in the country. I was told 
that experiments were to be made as to its suit¬ 
ability for the cold vinery, and should these be 
carried out successfully, there is little doubt that 
it would, before long, become a popular variety. 

In Grape growing, it is sometimes a most im¬ 
portant matter to be able to introduce tempo¬ 
rary artificial heat. To illustrate this 
with a case in point, I may mention 
that one morning last September, on going 
into my cold vinery, I immediately noticed a 
most suspicious change in the appearance of the 
Grapes, which up to that day had been colonring 
well, with every promise of being a fine crop. 
The weather had been sunless and close for some 
days, and I feared a bad case of mildew. The 
heat radiator was instantly put into requisition, 
and lighted every day about 4 o’clock in the 
afternoon to burn all night. In a very short 
time all traces of mischief had disappeared, 
and in about three weeks the Grapes were fit 
to cut; and when brought to table were duly 
admired for their size and beautiful bloom, 
and proved to be of excellent flavour. 

In a large orchard house, in which Peaches 
and Nectarines are cultivated in pots, Black 
Hamburghs and White Frontignon, Muscadine, 
or Buckland Sweetwater may be grown with 
success, at fifteen or twenty feet apart across 
the central pathway, and trained strictly on the 
spur system, so as to shade the rest of the trees 
as little as possible, and these add greatly to the 
beauty of the house. The successful cultivation 
of 

Peaches and Nectarines, 
which are, of all fruits, the most suitable for the 
orchard bouse, is, perhaps, not quite so easy a 
matter as that of Grapes. The enthusiastic 
amateur has often had to pay dearly for his early 
experience before he has settled down to the 
right system. A span-roof orchard house 100 feet 
long and 24 feet wide, filled with trees in full 
perfection of fruit bearing, such as I lately saw 
at Sawbridgworth, is a sight worth seeing. 
Moreover, it presents a strong incentive to tiy 
one’s hand at a similar, if a smaller, venture, and 
due precautions being carefully taken, there is 
no doubt that success will follow. The amateur 
contemplating fruit growing, however, must 
make up his mind to a considerable amount of 
unremitting labour, for orchard house trees 
resent only casual attentions, and unless he have 
a gardener thoroughly well experienced in the 
work, or he can find time and has sufficient 
perseverance to do it himself, it is better not to 
attempt fruit culture, for failure with fruit is 
worse than failure with flowers, and generally 
means a greater pecuniary loss. Many lessons 
have to be learnt by the beginner, amongst 
whicl) the art of pruning is essential. The shoots 
of Peaches and Nectarines require to be 
shortened to a triple bud, i.e., one in which the 
wood or branch-bud is in the centre with a 
bloom-bud at each side, and is in general indi¬ 
cated by triple leaves. Through ignorance 
of this rule, great damage may inad¬ 
vertently be done to the trees. Pruning 
being once mastered, other points of culture 
are simple enough, and within the easy com¬ 
prehension of any intelligent practical gardener. 


Google 







332 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sept. 29, 1883. 


An abundant supply of water is another essential, 
as daily attention is needed to watering and 
syringing in order to keep the trees in healthy 
foliage, free from blight and green fly. I may 
here mention that throughout the houses at 
Sawbridgworth—and they are multitudinous, as 
may be supposed—it was impossible, even with 
a keen gardener's eye, to detect the slightest 
trace of aphis, even among the Cherry trees, 
which are subject, perhaps more than any others, 
to this troublesome form of blight. Peaches aDd 
Nectarines may be either planted ont in the 
orchard house border, or they may be grown in 
pots. The former system, in which the trees are 
trained on wires near the glass, undoubtedly 
gives less trouble, and the yield of fruit may be 
greater, but it requires more space than the small 
cultivator usually has at his command. In a 
moderate sized orchard house — say of about 
SO feet by 14 feet, which is a good useful size— 
pot cultivation presents some advantages, and 
after a certain routine in their management has 
been arrived at, trees in pots are, perhaps, on the 
whole, more adapted to the wants of the limited 
grower. Numberless Peach and Nectarine trees, 
growing in pots and bearing magnificent fruit at 
the present time, may be seen at Sawbridg- 
worth, which have not been removed from their 
pots for many years. The plan of firm potting 
and liberal top-dressing is there followed with 
the best results. Shelter, full light, and free 
ventilation are three essentials to the well-doing 
of the trees, which abhor coddling, yet require 
protection from spring frosts and catting winds. 
It will not answer to leave doors or ventilators 
open to the quarter of a keen, blasting wind, 
which will inevitably cause your Peach leaves to 
curl and then fall an easy prey to green-fly. 

It is very advisable that some kind of slight 
temporary heating arrangement should be intro¬ 
duced at the critical time in spring, when the 
trees are in bloom and sharp frosts are apt to 
prevail, for the glass shed or orchard honse does 
not ensure protection to the tender blossom in 
case of sadden emergency. Otherwise, no heat¬ 
ing apparatus is required, and, indeed, many 
orchard houses are managed entirely without it. 
After fruiting, the trees are benefited by being 
removed to summer quarters in the open air, 
where a favourable aspect must be provided for 
the proper ripening of the wood. In autumn, 
when they are returned to the shelter of the 
house, they may be packed closely together, there 
to remain until February, thus making room for 
the housing of other trees, such as Pears, which 
only require protection daring the blooming 
season, and may be removed again about the 
month of May, when the fruit has fairly set 
and has reached the size of a filbert, to the open 
air to perfect its growth. Many such trees are 
to be seen in the nursery, each one bearing, at 
three years old, about half a dozen magnificent 
Pears, and standing, for the sake of protection 
from birds and wasps, under fine netting in their 
summer quarters. 

The orchard house, in proportion to its Bize, is 
perhaps the least costly of any glass erection. 
Absence of ornament reduces the expense very 
considerably, and many of these structures are 
little better than roughly constructed glass- 
sheds, and yet are found to answer their pur¬ 
pose admirably—gaping boards allowing a free 
circulation of air, being of good service rather 
than otherwise. Yet a well built house must 
always be found the most economical in the end. 
It has been proved by general experience that 

Apricots akd Cherries 
do not thrive so well if grown in the same house 
with Peaches and Nectarines, since the condi¬ 
tions of culture are somewhat different. Having 
hardier constitutions, they require at all times 
more air and freer ventilation. Cherries may be 
admirably cultivated in the orchard house—in 
fact it is the only method by which a satisfac¬ 
tory crop may be reckoned upon. No fruit 
seems to suffer more from the persistent rains 
which so frequently prevail about the season at 
which it ripens, or, if it should reach perfection, 
to offer more temptation to the birds, which, in 
spite of nets, manage to possess themselves of 
the best of the crop. Under glass the Cherries 
not only have time to ripen in a dry, well-venti¬ 
lated atmosphere, but may be permitted to hang 
on the trees until they are wanted, thus greatly 
prolonging their season. By growing early and 
late kinds, Cherries may be enjoyed from May 
till the end of August, and even September. 

Digitized by GOUgle 


Pears. 

A very interesting method of Pear culture 
under glass is mentioned by Mr. Rivers, in “ The 
Miniature Fruit Garden,” a valuable little work, 
which is at present, I believe, out of print, 
and which is worth referring to here in connec¬ 
tion with the subject of fruit growing. By this 
system, the tree is planted at the front of an 
open border, and at the height of about 6 inches, 
is trained upwards over a sloping trellis, above 
which a light, resting upon a rough framework, 
is placed at some 12 or 15 inches above the 
tree, which thus presents the appearance of 
being grown in an ordinary Cucumber frame 
without back, front, or sides. The light is 
sufficient to protect the blossom from spring 
frosts, or in case of very severe weather, it can 
be easily covered with mats; and the plan has 
been found to be very successful in its results. 
It is sometimes the practice, though not very 
frequently, to turn out a greenhouse during 
summer, leaving it free from its usual occupants. 
Where this is the case, or similar accommodation 
is available, the house maybe profitably employed 
in the cultivation of 

Tomatoes. 

A fair crop of this favourite and excellent fruit 
(or vegetable) may be occasionally obtained from 
a south wall out-of-doors ; but it is very seldom, 
and can never be reckoned upon with any 
degree of certainty. I remember on one occa¬ 
sion, during a short absence from home, being 
taken to see a promising set of plants which had 
suddenly been struck by the same fatal disease 
as the Potatoes in their immediate neighbour¬ 
hood, and being rash, venturing to say that such 
was not the case in my own garden, distant a 
few miles only. Two days later, on my return, 
the blackened and shrivelled Tomato plants, 
well set with fruit as they were, proved the 
futility of attempting to grow them out-of- 
doors ; but it was a fact to be noted that a stray 
plant or two which had been left unintentionally 
in a vinery betrayed no signs of disease. By 
raising the young plants early in a Cucumber 
frame, and shifting them on until they are in 
12-inch pots, by firm potting, and keeping them 
well pinched back, and affording them a liberal 
supply of nourishment by top-dressing and liquid 
manure, Tomatoes will be found, under the mere 
shelter of glass, to be quite worth growing, and 
to yield a good return without artificial heat, 
though doubtless, a heavier crop, extending 
over a more prolonged season, might be obtained 
from plants grown in a heated structure. 

A8HM0RE. 

Duck v. slugs &C—Noting the various 
remedies proposed for getting rid of these pests, 
I should like to suggest that your correspondents 
adopt my plan, and that is to keep wild ducks. 
They are small and light, a few sticks or twigs 
keep them off seedlings, they are nearly noiseless, 
eat very little corn—mine (a pair) require about 
a quarter-pint of maize daily—and they become 
very tame if obtained when young. Cutting one 
wing once a year keeps them at home. A large 
galvanized bath, with rockery and plants round 
it, is their pond; it is sufficient to keep their 
handsome plumage in perfect condition. Cats 
they do not much mind ; dogs or men are their 
enemies; they chase the sparrows. On the other 
hand, they certainly do some damage in sitting 
about on Pinks, &c., and breaking shoots off plants 
in their rambles, but my birds are always at 
liberty, which is not really necessary; still, every 
bean has grown and podded, lettuces have not 
always disappeared, and instead of dozens of 
slugs to be nightjv destroyed, about one dozen is 
all I have seen this year. The absence of worm 
casts has also made the lawn more attractive. 
Then I have had thirty-nine eggs from only one 
duck, and most delicious they are.—C. A. J. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


NOTES ON THE CACTU8. 

Amongst many other good and interesting 
plants which have been allowed to go out of 
fashion, we may include the various species of 
Cacti. There are few homes, indeed, where 
plants are grown at all in which we do not find 
a specimen or two of these or some other suc¬ 
culent bestowed either in the corner of some 
passage window or pushed out of the way on 
some back shelf of a greenhouse, but it is rare, 
now-a-days, to meet with an amateur whose 


interest in these strange freaks of nature is 
real. Now and then an enquiry as to their 
culture may appear, as it does in Gardening, 
September 8th, and may serve as an excuse for 
a lover of the genus to say a few words in its 
behalf. No plants are more simple to manage, 
or give less trouble, than Cacti, which may be 
considered as a setoff against the too short time 
during which we are permitted to enjoy their 
wonderful beauty; yet the flowers of some 
species are more lasting than others, and 
continue to open in succession, which prolongs 
the season of their blooming. 

Cacti may be roughly divided by the un¬ 
scientific into three distinct groups:—the Torch 
Thistle (Cereus and Phyllocatus), the Melon 
Thistle (Echinocactus and Mammillaria), and 
the Indian Fig (Opuntia). There are, perhaps, 
no better name9 than these old-fashioned ones 
by which they may be distinguished. The 
Melon-thistle section frequently receives the 
quaint title of “ bachelor’s pillow," by which it 
is well known in country places, at any rate in 
the West of England. 

The first, or Torch-thistle group, are those 
which, on the whole, produce the most splendid 
flowers, and are therefore most worthy of general 



Type of Iutliau Fig (Opuntia). 


cultivation, and to these only the following notes 
refer. Broadly, we may make the name apply to 
all kinds of flat-stemmed (l’hyllocacti) and 
angular-stemmed species (Cereus) of upright 
growth, but many hybrids have been raised 
between the two, so that these distinctions can¬ 
not be said to be always well defined. One of 
the best known of the Torch Thistles is Cereus 
speciosissimus. This species has stiff, upright 
stems, usually quadrangular and thickly beset 
with strong spines. Its large deep scarlet 
flowers shade off towards the centre into a 
metallic violet glow, difficult to describe in words, 
and yet more so to portray in colour. In spite 
of its truly gorgeous flowers, this most beautiful 
CereHs has its drawbacks, being one of the most 
disagreeable of plants to handle, aDd also taking 
up more room than many others, since its rigid 
spiny stems will grow to a great height and 
branch out in all directions. The best position 



Type of Melon Thistle (Echinocactus). 


for this species is against the wall of a lean-to 
greenhouse, where it may be left alone, but as it. 
is seldom that so good a place can be spared for 
it, it is more often grown in a pot, and, with 
right management, very good specimens maj r be 
thus obtained. Another nearly allied scarlet 
flowering species isC. coccinea, which is also very 
beautiful and not quite so sturdy in its habit of 
growth. These are both true Cereuses, having 
the angular stems of the species. Another ally 
is the old night-flowering Cactus (Cereus gTandi- 
florus), now so seldom seen, but which in former 
days was thought worthy of having 6upper parties , 






Sept. 23. 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


333 


given in its honour, to which the guests were 
especially bidden in order that they might enjoy 
its short-lived glory. This Cerens, to be well and 
cflectively grown, should be accommodated with 
plenty of room, requiring much the same position 
as, and even more space than, C. speciosissimus, 
vis., the back wall of a greenhouse. I know one 
private garden in which the night-blowing Cactus 
has not been displaced by newer plants, and in 
this instance notices are posted up in the village, 
as well as in the neighbouring town, giving all 
visitors a welcome to come and see it. It is a 
grand sight too, and one not to be forgotten, to 
see those rugged old stems hanging out their 
great cream-coloured blossoms, which look 
almost unearthly in the twilight of a summer 
evening. At the time of my visit there were at 
least fifty blossoms open or ready to open upon 
it; but Cereus grandiflorons is scarcely suitable 
for general cultivation There are, however, two 
night-flowering species of Torch Thistle which 
anyone may grow successfully in a sunny window, 
and are well worthy of being brought into notice, 
and both of which bloomed in my unbeated 
greenhouse during the past summer. The first 
of these is Phyllocactus crenatus, a flat-stemmed 
species with somewhat globular or incurved 
creamy white flowers, which open at 7 o’clock in 
the evening, and last nearly three days. The 
other, which if I am not mistaken is Phyllocactus 
grandis, is still more beautiful. Its flat stems 
are round at the base, and, unlike any other 
Cactns with which I am at present acquainted, 
its magnificent flowers are produced low down 
upon the bases of its very fleshy stems. The 
buds are dark red until almost ready to open, 
but as they expand, the outer rows of sepals and 
petals shade off through brown and yellow tints 
to a creamy white. Unlike those of P. cre¬ 
natus, the flowers open wide and flat, and 
measure quite as much as 8 inches across, 
remaining in beauty for nearly three days, in 
which respect it is a more valuable plant than 
C. grandiflorus, whose flowers close in a single 
night. This species blooms in a small state, and 
its flowers open in succession, though several are 
frequently in perfection at the same time. It is 
so well worth growing that no good greenhouse 
should be without it, yet it is equally suitable 
for a window plant. 

Amongst the flat-stemmedspeciesare two well- 
known old plants—Phyllocactus Ackermanni 
and P. speciosus—which are met with more fre¬ 
quently, perhaps, than any other. They are both 
scarlet flowered, with a decided tinge of orange, 
and so lack the exceeding richness of colonr 
which we find ioC speciosissimus; nevertheless, 
they are extremely handsome, and may be 
flowered very successfully in small pots. P. 
phy llanthoides is another favourite species when¬ 
ever it is known. Of these there are two 
varieties, one with bright pink flowers, and the 
other with flowers so pale as to approach to 
white, which are not uncommon, and I once met 
with a very beautiful pure white variety. The 
individual flowers in this species are rather 
small and somewhat tubular, but they are very 
freely produced, and last in perfection for a con¬ 
siderable time. A still better rose-coloured 
species is one which is known to me under the 
name of P. Edwardsi. It is more upright in its 
growth, and its flowers are much larger than 
those of the last named, while they are even 
more lasting. 

A very different looking plant, but perhaps one 
more commonly to be met with than any other 
of its tribe, is the Creeping Cereus of Peru (C. 
flagelliformis), or, as it is sometimes called, the 
Whipcord Cactus. This species is interesting 
from having been the first of its kind introduced 
into England Its very distinct appearance and 
deep rose-coloured flowers make it a desirable 
plant. Its pendulous stems are best suited to a 
hanging pot or basket, and it lasts in beauty for 
three or four weeks, especially when care is taken 
to remove withered flowers. All the above 
named, and many other species, are worthy of a 
place in the choicest collection of plants, and, at 
the same time, are so readily grown as to be 
within the capabilities of any good window 
gardener. 

PROPAGATION. 

Cacti are easily raised from cuttings, which 
should be taken in May. These should be laid 
hy on a shelf in full sun for a fortnight, or longer 
if convenient, to dry beforeUjey are potted- By 
that time they will generally begin to .poll pijt 
roots, which is the best sifJ^jip/^tJLy arr rMdy 



for potting, after which operation they should 
be watered very sparingly, until it is evident 
that growth has fairly begun. It is much safer 
to give too little water than too much. With 
established plants, judicious watering is no less 
important, for if their tissues become over¬ 
charged with moisture, decay inevitably results. 
The greater number of Cacti require no water 
whatever from October to March during which 
period they are naturally at rest. Upon this 
depends, in great measure, successful blooming 
during tho following season. Some of the 
phyllocacti which are early bloomers may have 
a little water once a month during the winter, 
but even these are none the worse for looking a 
little shrivelled and brown, and soon recover 
this apparently hard treatment. It is best at all 
times, and for all plants to use water with the 


Typo of the Torch Thistle (Cereus). 


chill off, and especially is this the case with all 
succulent plants which luxuriate in hot water. 
It is a common saying that boiling water should 
be given to Cacti, but the right temperature may 
easily be tested by being able to bear the hand 
in it with comfort. Water at a greater heat than 
this should not be used. 

The Most Suitable Soil 
for the species of Cacti above mentioned consists 
of good loam, with a considerable admixture of 
coarse, sharp sand. The drainage of the pots 
must be carefully attended to, as stagnant mois¬ 
ture at the roots is most injurious to this class of 
plant. Many persons recommend lime rubbish 
to be mixed with the soil in which Cacti are 
potted, but I have not myself found the use of it 
tend in any way to their welfare, and have given 
up the practice. A top-dressing of good rich soil 
is very beneficial, with an occasional watering 
with soot or manure water. They will then only 
require 

Potting 

once in two or three years, which, in the case of 
such prickly subjects, is no small advantage. 
Midsummer is quite soon enough for this opera¬ 
tion when it becomes necessary, as it is better to 
wait until the plants are fairly in growth before 
meddling with them. Artificial heat is not 
needful further than to keep out frost; but in 
dealing with Cacti we must not forget that they 
are dem'sens of a hot, dry climate for the greater 


ft peno 

of drenching rain. We must, therefore, do our 
beat to approximate our treatment to their 
natural requirements, and accord to them the 
sunniest window, or a position close to the glass 
on the hottest shelf of the greenhouse. 

During the months of June and July, they 
are greatly benefited by being placed out-of- 
doors, but it must be borne in mind that slugs 
are particularly fond of eating holes in their suc¬ 
culent stems. On this account, it is a good plan 
to make a raised platform—a board resting upon 
a couple of trestles or even large pots answers 
very woll—under a sunny wall if possible, upon 
which to set these and similar pot plants. It 
is then more easy to protect them from the 
depredations of these troublesome enemies. 
Open] air treatment such as this will be 
found to have the 
most beneficial effect 
upon the next season's 
bloom. 

It has been mentioned 
by Mr. J. Croucber, 
amongst his valuable 
bints on the cultivation 
of Cacti, that in repot¬ 
ting, all superfluous and 
dead roots should be no- 
sparingly cut away — 
the amateur, as a rule, 
being too much afraid 
of the knife. This is an 
important point to bear 
in mind, and one which 
to a cultivator accus¬ 
tomed to Cacti, carries 
conviction with it. It 
stands to reason that 
the mass of decayed 
fibres only retain mois¬ 
ture and impede drain¬ 
age, while new roots are 
so readily formed that 
there can be no fear of 
doing permanent injury 
by the most merciless 
trimming. Cutting away 
all the smaller fibrous 
partsof the root will also 
permit of the plant being 
replaced in a pot of the 
same or even of smaller 
size than before. The 
same experienced autho¬ 
rity recommends that, in 
the case of disease, the 
. Cactus should be com¬ 
pletely shaken out of its 
pot,alltheinfected parts 
cut away, and the whole 
plant laid in the sun 
until it begins to throw 
out new roots, when it 
may be repotted, and 
will then probably, if 
rightly managed, take out a new lease of life. 
To sum up 

The Chiek Points in Cactus Culture, 
keep the plants perfectly dry in winter from 
October to March. Water and syringe with 
warm water freely twice a week during the 
growing season —lesseningthe quantitygradually 
after August. Place them in a warm sunny 
position out of doors in full oxposure for a 
couple of months—say June and July—after 
flowering, at all other times house them as 
warmly as possible, as the more they can be 
roasted in the direct rays of the sun, the better 
it is for them. 

For the sake of those who have no greenhouse, 
it may be well to add that Cacti may be safely 
bestowed throughout the winter on any dry, 
warm shelf, not absolutely in the dark, out of 
reach of frost. The top of a kitchen dresser 
will answer very well for lack of a better 
position. They will want no attention and need 
give no more trouble than that of putting up 
and taking down, with a good syringing to wash 
away the winter’s dust. For those who have the 
convenience of glass, it is quite allowable to put 
Cacti on a back shelf, or even on the floor in any 
out-of-the-way corner that may present itself, so 
long as the condition of dryness can be main¬ 
tained. To be kept dry j»nd out of reach of 
frost are essential points—for drip is fatal, and 
they will not bear a vory lew degree of cold. 

I have not touched here upon the Kpiphvllumr. 














334 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sept. 29, 1883. 


I 


those beautiful winter-flowering Cacti which are 
usually grafted upon stocks of Pereskia or Cereus, 
because, as a rule, they are grown in greater heat 
than is at the command of what the gardeners 
are pleased to call the “ million,” whereas the 
Cacti I have named are quite as much within 
reach of the cottage, the farmhouse, and the par¬ 
sonage, as of the more ambitious gardens of the 
hall or the castle. Epiphyllum truncatum has, 
however, been sucessfully bloomed on its own 
roots as a hanging or basket plant with very 
little aid in the way of artificial heat. Never¬ 
theless, it certainly cannot be termed an “ every¬ 
body's ” plant, like our good old friends the more 
robust species of Torch Thistle. K. L. D. 


HOW TO HAKE AND STRIKE A CUTTING. 
This is a very important problem to numbers of 
ladies, gentlemen, and amateurs who indulge in 
the pastime of gardening, and perform some of 
the lighter duties belonging to it themselves. 
No questions have so often been put to the 
writer as “ How shall I make a cutting ?” “ Must 
it be cut across or slanting 1" " Should I cut all 
the leaves off it ?” “ Should it be inserted under 
glass ?” “ When should I put in cuttings ?" &c. 
—questions which cannot always be answered 
off-hand in a satisfactory manner. To begin at 
the beginning, plants are generally and most 
naturally propagated by seed, and that is the 
best method to follow when a vigorous progeny 
is an object, and it is desired to raise the 
greatest number of plants with the least trouble 
and expense. The disadvantages of propaga¬ 
tion by seed are, that you cannot be sure of the 
progeny coming quite like the parent, or, in 
common parlance, true; hence, in multiplying 
any desired variety of a plant, the only ready 
and sure way is by a cutting or bud from the 
original plant or those propagated from it. In 
this way we can keep any particular variety true 
as long as we wish, although, in some cases, it 
seems probable that the constitution of a plant 
long propagated by cuttings may deteriorate in 
time. But for the “ cutting ” method of propa¬ 
gation, it would be very difficult to keep up a stock 
of good varieties in a garden; and without it 
the "bedding out” system would hardly have 
been possible as it used to be carried out, for 
the varieties were all selected for the purpose, 
and propagated annually from cuttings. Rightly 
or wrongly, gardeners have an impression that 
a cutting made from a shoot makes a more 
vigorous plant than on® propagated by division 
of the roots; and it is quite certain that, in the 
case of half-hardy plants planted out annually, 
cuttings make by far the strongest plants, old 
plants kept over the winter never doing so well 
—as, for example, Geraniums, Calceolarias, and 
many kinds of greenhouse and stove plants. 
There are two kinds of outtings—soft-wooded 
and hard-wooded — and by far the greatest num¬ 
ber of the first are rooted every year in gardens 
and nurseries. 

Soft-Wooded Cuttings 
are cuttings from such a plant as a Pelargonium, 
a Carnation, or a Phlox; or a hard-wooded 
cutting is exampled in the Gooseberry, the Rose, 
the Apple, or any deciduous or evergreen tree 
that produces hard and woody shoots. Hard- 
wooded subjects are sometimes propagated, how¬ 
ever, by soft-wooded cuttings of thegrowing wood, 
as in the case of the young green shoots of the 
Rose. Soft-wooded cuttings root or “ strike " 
sooner than hard-wooded ones, and, as a general 
rule, all such cuttings must be struck during the 
warm season of the year, or in an artificial 
temperature, where they will retain their foliage, 
which is essential to the production of roots. 
The following outdoor and indoor subjects are 
generally and most successfully propagated by 
the green or soft-wood—usually tops of shoots 
when they are growing most actively and are 
tender and soft in the tissue ; Phloxes, Car¬ 
nations, Hollyhocks, Dahlias, Iberis, Pent- 
si e mens. Calceolarias, Delphiniums, Veronicas, 
Sweet Williams, Lychnis, Chrysanthemums, 
Saxifragas, Arabia, Pansies, and the like. In fact, 
hardly any herbaceous border plants that produce 
stems or shoots annually refuse to root as 
cuttings if put in at the right season and 
sufficiently protected. Rhizome or bulbous- 
rooted subjects, like the Iris and Daffodils, are 
always propagated by division. Indoor plants 
consist of Geoanitims, Fuchsits, Primulas, 
TSouvardiss, 1 dt^nja^, Abutilons, 


Dracasnas, Begonias, and mostly all soft and 
maDy hard-wooded stove plants. In making a 
soft-wooded cutting, the best and most healthy 
shoots should be selected. A poor shoot will 
seldom make a good plant, or root so soon 
as one that is green and strong. This is the 
reason why gardeners are so anxious to have 
a good healthy stock to take cuttings 
from in spring, when many plants have to be 
raised in a few weeks, as they know that one 
clip of fine tops will not only make good plants 
themselves, but produce another crop of cuttings 
before they are out of the cutting pots, and so 
on for several generations, whereas poor stock 
will root feebly and produce little or no yield 
afterwards. The cutting should be a top, not 
from a flowering shoot if it can be helped, but 
from a growing shoot,with the healthy and green 
leaves. The sturdier the shoot, the shorter 
jointed, and the greener the leaves upon it, the 
sooner it will root and the finer will the plant 
be. The cutting may be from three to five joints 
long as a rule, but the length of it, or the 
number of joints, is of little consequence 
provided the wood is young and soft, 
and the cutting stubby and strong. Geranium 
cuttings may be from 2 inches to nearly 1 foot 
long, provided the whole piece consists of one 
season’s growth; big cuttings of these make the 
best bedding plants. In preparing a cutting, re¬ 
move the bottom leaves, but leave from two to six 
good leaves, or thereabouts, on it, and cut it clean 
beneath the lowermost joint. Roots are pro¬ 
duced most readily from a joint, but in spring, 
when cuttings strike most freely, such things as 
Verbenas, Lobelias, Ageratums, and most plants 
of that kind, may, if stock be scarce, be cut into 
as many pieces as there are joints, with a couple 
of leaves to each, and struck. In such a case the 
shoot is cut just between the joints, and every 
piece inserted deep enough in the compost to 
let the base of the leaves touch it. Roots will 
be emitted all the way up the stem and from the 
joint at the base of the leaves, and if the leaves 
are good fresh growth will soon be produced. 

This is the most economical plan, and succeeds 
with mostly all soft cuttings in spring, but 
when cuttings are plentiful, or the subject is a 
choice one, it is better to cut at a joint. Every 
operation should be performed by a sharp knife, 
as a clean wound heals soonest. Before taking 
the cuttings off, the stock plants should be well 
watered if needful, so that the cuttings may be 
full of sap, and care should be taken to prevent 
them drooping from drought or cold. Keep them 
fresh by sprinkling, and shading if necessary, 
until they are safely inserted and transferred to 
the progagating bed. Here the care of the pro¬ 
pagator is most needed and his skill tried. Having 
secured his cuttings and got them all inserted 
safely, the next great point is to keep them from 
drooping and withering on the one hand, and 
damping off on the other. Shrivelling is most 
likely to happen on dry, sunny days, at the be¬ 
ginning, before roots are formed, as the evapo¬ 
ration from the surface of the leaves is then in 
excess of the supply drawn from the soil. If the 
leaves of a soft cutting wither, there is little 
prospect of it rooting well, if at all, as the pro¬ 
duction of roots depends on the health of the 
foliage. For the first few days, or for, maybe, a 
week or more, means should be taken to prevent 
the leaves drooping by sprinkling the cuttings 
slightly with tepid water two or three times a 
day if needful, keeping the frame or glass close 
at the same time, and shading timely from 
strong sun. No general rule can be laid down 
as regards temperature. All hardy plant cut¬ 
tings should be put in between May and Sep¬ 
tember, and under handlights or cloches if pos¬ 
sible, and all greenhouse and stove plants 
should be struck in artificial heat in a close 
frame the same way; so also should all bedding 
or border plants put in before May. 

Moderate temperatures should be given under 
any circumstances at the first, as too much heat, 
with moisture, inclines the cuttings to damp off, 
a whole batch sometimes going off in that way- 
in twenty-four hours or less. If cuttings lengthen 
rapidly soon after they are put into heat, or 
before they root, it is a sign either that 
the top or bottom heat is too high. All 
that is needed is to keep the foliage fresh 
till the cuttiDgs begin tb callus and heal 
at the base, after which they are out of 
danger, as the roots are then pushing and work¬ 
ing, Most soft-wooded cuttings need this care, 
but Pelargoniums are an exception, as they root 


best in the open air between June and September, 
and should always be dibbled out in a light sandy 
compost, on a sunny border, or in boxes placed 
in that position. This applies to cuttings from 
plants grown in the beds outside. After Septem¬ 
ber, and during the winter and spring, a pretty 
high and dry temperature is required by them, 
and a favourable position under glass. If cuttings 
of Geraniums cannot be got in at or before the 
present date, they are better left on the plants 
till March or April, when the young tops will 
root readily on a shelf in any warm pit, vinery, 
or other structure. 

Hard-wooded Cuttings 
generally include such subjects indoors as Heaths, 
Epacris, Camellias, Azaleas, .vc , which are, how¬ 
ever, propagated from the half-ripened wood 
and tops of shoots, and should always be rooted 
in a slight bottom heat under glass; indeed, all 
evergreen, greenhouse, or stove subjects should 
be struck in a close frame within a hothouse, or 
under bell-glasses, and they should be made in 
the same way as soft-wooded cuttings, than 
which they take longer to root. Outdoor hard- 
wooded plants propagated by cuttings consist 
principally of Roses, Gooseberries, Currants, and 
others of the Ribes family, fruit trees, and de¬ 
ciduous and evergreen shrubs. Cuttings of de¬ 
ciduous subjects are usually selected from the 
hardest and best ripened portions of the current 
year’s growth, i.e , young shoots, and are cut 
from 4 inches to 9 inches in length, according 
to the length of the joints, long-jointed subjects 
being made longer, and vice versa. They should 
be cut off close below a bud or joint in the same 
way as a soft wooded cutting, and be topped as 
well. Cuttings of evergreens are from the tops 
of the shoots, and are planted late in spring 
after the severe weather is over, whereas de¬ 
ciduous cuttings may be put in either in autumn 
or spring, but both should have a sheltered, 
warm position, and a light and very sandy com¬ 
post to root in. Nurserymen, instead of propa¬ 
gating many of their choice evergreens, like the 
Aucuba, Berberis, Stenophylla, or any subject 
that does not seed freely or root readily by 
cuttings, layer side-shoots by pegging them 
down into the soil in autumn. They root the 
following season, and are fit for transplanting 
any time afterwards. By layers is a safe plan 
with most shrubs when any doubts are enter¬ 
tained of succeeding by cuttings. The layered 
branch may be notched by the knife at the 
buried part, but that is not of much conse¬ 
quence. Some few plants are propagated by 
cuttings of the creeping roots, like the Anemone 
japonica and Mint, which, if taken up and 
chopped into small pieces and buried, will all 
grow. From the beginning of March till the 
end of May is the best season for striking all 
kinds of cuttings under glass, but cuttings may 
be struck all the year round in a temperature 
between 65° and 75°. S. W. 


Gas-lime for small gardens —Having 
read in Gardening that gas-lime was a useful 
article in the garden for preventing that pest 
known as the club, I determined to give it a 
trial; so last year I purchased a load, the cost of 
which was Is., cartage, 2s. 6d.—total, 3s. 6d—and 
sprinkled about one-third over a garden 200 feet 
long by 40 feet wide. This was done in Feb¬ 
ruary. In March I commenced sowing seeds, 
finishing the first week in April. Carrots and 
Onions were an immense crop ; Potatoes, Peas, 
Turnips, and every kind of the Brassica tribe 
declined positively to grow at all. Consequently, 
my experience was not at all satisfactory re¬ 
garding the latter vegetables; but this year I 
have been amply rewarded by securing splendid 
crops of every kind of vegetable planted, and 
with the least trouble I have ever experienced. 
There is no club discernible in any of the Cab¬ 
bage tribe, and all are looking well. Potatoes 
were the best I have ever had; Peas very plen¬ 
tiful, and remarkably well flavoured; Turnips, 
Carrots, and Onions all first-class. Now, my 
advice is : Do not use the gas-lime until it has 
been kept some time. Let it be used as a dressing 
in October or November, and dug into the soil, 
being careful to spread it when using it, and not 
placing it in heaps on the ground; and it will 
be found to be an excellent manure, containing 
all that is required to produce good crops, and 
being at the same time a safe cure for club root. 

—DjanTRUs, 




Sept. 29, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


335 


THE COMING- WEEK’S WORK. 

Extract* from a Garden Diary—October 1 
to October 6. 

Potting herbaceous Calceolarias, also a small batch 
of late Cinerarias. Getting pits and frames ready for 
Endive and Lettuce. Lifting Beetroot and storing it 
away in dry mould in an open shed. Looking over all 
Cauliflowers and doubling down leaves where heads are 
formed to preserve them from frost, and removing all 
those flt for use to a cool shed, heeling them in in dry 
solL Covering up Endive and Lettuce to blanch with in¬ 
verted flower pots. Potting Pelargoniums from flower 
borders ; also a batch of Hyacinths, plunging the latter 
2 inches or 3 inches deep in coal ashes in cold pits. 
Transplanting a large border of Early Heartwell Marrow 
Cabbage. Moving Plum trees from nursery wall to other 
parts of garden where required to All up vacancies. 
Potting Lobelias and Tom Thumb and Flower of Spring 
Pelargoniums. Getting Chrysanthemums under cover. 
Weeding and thinning out autumn-sown Carrots. Hoeing 
amougst all the autumn-planted Cabbages. Sowing Mus¬ 
tard and Cress in shallow boxes placed In heat for suc¬ 
cession. Potting Centaureas and Carnations. Looking 
over Pelargonium cuttings, and removing all dead leaves 
and weeds. Earthing up late Celery when the soil is dry 
and in workable condition. Lifting Peach and Nectarine 
trees, and root-pruning them when required to check 
rank growth and bring them into a bearing condition. 
Clearing out all water-spouts and drains before the rainy 
season sets in. Potting Pelargonium cuttings which have 
been struck in a frame. Planting a border of spring- 
flowering plants, consisting of Wallflowers, Silene 
pendula compacta, Forget me-nots, red and white 
Daisies, &c. Gathering all Scarlet Runners that are of 
usable size, and putting their stalks in water to keep them 
fresh until required for use. Erecting staging over Straw¬ 
berries in pots, on which to place spare lights to throw 
otf heavy rains and protect the plants from frost. Roping 
Onions during wet weather, also looking over seed 
Potatoes and placing them on their ends in shallow boxes 
to sprout. Cleaning woodwork in vineries, &c., to de¬ 
stroy insects. 

Glasshouses. 

Even in the mildest parts of the kingdom it is 
not safe to leave greenhouse plants out after this 
time, for although frost may keep off drenching 
rains may be looked for, and these reduce the 
soil about the roots to a soddened, unhealthy 
condition at a season when neither the drying 
influence of the air nor the absorption by the 
roots is such as to remove the superabundant 
moisture. 

Chrysanthemums. 

■Where these are grown on the planting-out 
and layering system, with a view to produce 
dwarf single-stemmed plants, the time of taking 
up and potting needs to be regulated by the 
setting of the buds, but as soon as these are 
fairly set, and the layers are well rooted, they 
may be cut away from the stools and potted. If 
the soil in which they were layered is of a light 
sandy character, when taken up much of it can 
be shaken from the roots without breaking them, 
and this will enable the young plants to be put 
into comparatively small pots; they will bear 
soil much richer than most things. One-fifth 
rotten manure added to the loam in which they 
are to be potted will not be too much, as upon 
their being thus liberally sustained depends the 
quantity and full development of the flowers; 
press the material moderately firm in the pots, 
and thoroughly soak them with water to keep 
them from flagging. If after potting they can 
be shat up close in a cold house or pit, it will 
prevent any loss of the leaves, which, if the work 
is well managed, should keep wholly perfect 
down to the soil. Where dwarf, floriferous plants 
are wanted to stand on conservatory or green¬ 
house stages, where tall specimens would be un¬ 
suitable, this planting-out and layering method 
has much to recommend it, but the plants must 
be well attended to with water, so as never to 
let the soil get dry until the flowers are fully 
open, otherwise many are apt to go blind or open 
imperfectly. Pretty little plants can be had in 
7-inch or 8-inch pots. The l’ompone varieties 
and the medium-sized free-flowering kinds, such 
as the white Mrs. George Rundle and the yellow 
Mrs. Dixon, conform to this treatment best. 

Epacbises. 

Where a good selection of these is grown it 
will be found that some varieties naturally 
tower much earlier than others. Amongst these 
will be most of the erect growing kinds; the 
time of blooming is in a great measure de¬ 
pendent upon the treatment to which the Htock 
has been subjected, as Epacrises generally set 
Bower soon after they are turned out in the open 
air in summer, no matter what time that may be. 
They are not plants that bear forcing, but their 
blooming may be accelerated by keeping them a 
little close, such as in a house or pit where 
double Primulas and Cyelameilsare being brpnght 
on, say where the temperLur||s^ot {fan 


45° at night. Those thus encouraged to come 
on should be placed close to the light and should 
have plenty of air every day, otherwise a certain 
amount of shoot growth will take place, which 
it is desirable to avoid. 

Epiphyllum truncatem. 

Where the stock of Epiphyllums is limited, it 
will in most cases not be advisable to have them 
in flower until the beginning of the year, but 
where there is a sufficient number of plants to 
afford a succession, a few may shortly be put in 
gentle heat; for this purpose plants should be 
selected that bloomed early last winter, and 
which, after making growth, were well hardened 
up by exposure to the sun in the open air, treat¬ 
ment under which the bloom-buds will now show 
prominently at the points of the shoots. Where 
bright coloured flowers for intermixture with 
others of paler hue are in demand for bouquet¬ 
making or filling small vases, this section of 
Epiphyllums is very useful. 

Hyacinths and other Bulbs. 

Although the potting of these may, in the case 
of those that are required for blooming late in 
the spring, be deferred for some time, yet it is 
best to get the principal lot completed now, as 
it gives time for their beiDg well rooted, upon 
which, before any excitement is attempted, much 
of their success in flowering depends. Out-of- 
doors, plunged in ashes or Cocoanut, fibre, is still 
the best way of treating them, as they naturally 
root best where the sun comes full on the 
position in which they are set. 

Heliotropes. 

These are impatient of cold, but where sweet- 
smelling flowers are in demand they are indis¬ 
pensable through the late months of the year. 
Whether grown as standards, large bush specimens 
or small stock, such as that struck from cuttings 
in the spring, they should now be placed where 
a little fire heat can be used on cold nights. 
Those wanted to keep on blooming should be 
kept at from 45° to 5(3°, with plenty of air and 
light, for though the flowers will open in a lower 
temperature than this, still, if not warm enough, 
the plants will make but little after-growth, 
which is indispensable where a succession of 
bloom is looked for. 

Flower Garden. 

Bedding Plants. 

As the end of the bedding-out season for this 
year is at hand, notes of such plants and arrange¬ 
ments as have afforded the greatest satisfaction, 
owing to their rarity, novelty, or effectiveness, 
may be of assistance to some who are bent on 
making changes in their flower-garden arrange¬ 
ments next year. The notes in question must 
necessarily be taken as from my point of view 
only, readers for themselves deciding as to 
whether the plants and arrangements named are 
likely to meet their respective tastes and require¬ 
ments. The flower of the season with U9 has 
undoubtedly been the Marguerites, golden and 
white. We have them in large basket-vases, in¬ 
termixed with various kinds of plants, such as 
Heliotropes, Fuchsias, scented Pelargoniums, 
and Petunias, and also arranged in a long border 
as a back line, alternated with the Cactus and 
other single Dahlias, and the effect is strikingly 
pretty, so much so, that it begets praise from 
even the “ don't-care-for-anything-in-particular ” 
amongst garden visitors. The white Marguerite 
and deep purple-crimson Petunia Spitfire inter¬ 
mixed is another excellent hit, and so is the 
yellow Marguerites and single Dahlia coccinea, 
raised from seeds in February, and the Mar¬ 
guerites from cuttings at the same time. Next 
to the Marguerites come the single Dahlias; the 
ease with which they can be raised and the great 
variety of colours aid in making them immensely 
popular for flower garden decoration. We have 
circular beds of them, arranged as follows: In 
the centre, Paragon, deep maroon-crimson, with 
light purple stripes on each side of the petal; 
next, the Cactus Dahlia (Yuarezi), the outer line 
being alba, pure white, and coccinea, bright 
scarlet, the undergrowth Harrison’s Musk, and 
the edging silver variegated Thyme. The yellow 
or lutea types of single Dahlias look charming 
alternated with Ricinus Gibsoni, kept at a pro¬ 
portionate height for the Dahlias by an occasional 
stopping of the leading shoots. Another note¬ 
worthy bed—but only pretty in the eyes of en¬ 
thusiastic disciples of the aesthetic school—is com¬ 


posed of tall Sunflowers and Giant Hemp, the 
greenery of this latter plant setting off to advan¬ 
tage the gaudy Sunflower. For a sheltered nook 
in a distant part of the sub-tropical garden, or 
rather, as seen from a distance, this combination 
is really excellent, but a far more pleasing 
arrangement for the same kind of garden we have 
in the form of an oval-shaped bed, planted in a 
mixed way with tall, variegated Abutilons and 
Grevillea robusta, the edging being Salvia argen- 
tea. Amongst dwarfer plants real acquisitions 
are the new Violas, Mrs. Grey, almost pure white, 
and another variety named Yellow Dwarf; both 
have flowered continuously on our dry soil with¬ 
out more than the ordinary amount of watering 
all the summer, and are still covered with flowers. 
Tuberous Begonias are also amongst our best 
flowering bedding plants of the year; at the 
present moment they far excel the Pelargoniums 
in brilliancy, and no rain storms hurt them. We 
have beds of them intermixed with the variety 
castanifolia, which is one of the best of the non- 
tnberous bedding kinds there is. These Begonia 
beds have an outer margin or narrow border 
planted with succulents and hardy Sedums in 
formal pattern, types of plants that harmonise 
most perfectly with the inmates of the beds. We 
have also used them as central plants in small 
panels or rings, some of which are carpeted with 
Sedum acre elegans, others with Sednm glaucum 
and Herniaria glabra, and the effect is quite 
unique, there being such a natural look about the 
arrangement, and what in our case is of great 
importance, the groundwork being hardy, there 
is so much the less to do at the season when we 
have to tarn oar summer into a winter garden. 
In such borders we have simply to lift the 
Begonias and replace them with small shrubs. 
These are a few of the most noteworthy arrange¬ 
ments and plants that have come under my 
observation this season, my experience of them 
being such that I shall not only hope to repeat 
them another year, but extend them. 

General Work. 

Till the leaves are all down and cold weather 
has set in, which will keep worms from coming 
to the surface, daily sweeping up and rolling of 
turf and walks will be needed. Edgings should 
have their final clipping for the season, and if 
the walks are now well cleared of weeds, they 
will entail no further trouble in that respect till 
spring. Still keep beds and borders in neat 
condition by repeatedly picking them over, and 
when all hope of further effectiveness is ended 
lor this year, let them be at once re-ocoupied 
with plants to stand the winter, or, in the case 
of herbaceous plants, clear away the unsightly 
stems, mulch the borders with Cocoa fibre, and 
fill up vacancies by planting out from the seed 
beds such biennials as Canterbury Bells, Sweet 
Williams, Wallflowers, .Snapdragons, and spring- 
flowering bulbs, such as Hyacinths, Narcissi, and 
Tulips. Roses are still flowering profusely, the 
late heavy rains having given them a fresh start; 
old blossoms should be kept picked off, the beds 
freed from weeds, and standards secured to 
stakes. The ties of all that were budded this 
season ought now to be removed, and all Brier 
shoots and suckers rubbed off. Secure all 
bedding plants that have been propagated in the 
open border by potting them up and placing 
them in frames; also mark, by tying on them 
pieces of matting or labels, all Dahlias and other 
plants that are to be saved, and which the first 
sharp frost would cripple beyond recognition.— 
W. W. 

Fruit. 

Hardy Fruits. 

Take advantage of dry days for gathering 
Apples and Pears as they become fit for removal 
from the trees. Choice Pears that are to be kept 
for a long time Bhonld be handled with the 
greatest care, and none but those which are of 
full size and sound should be placed on the 
shelves where they are intended to remain until 
fit for use. Wall trees of all kinds, commencing 
with Apricots, early kinds of Peacties, and 
Nectarines that are growing too rank, will, if dis¬ 
turbed with care now, fruit abundantly next 
year, and the fruit will attain its full size and 
quality, as the roots will have time to take a hold 
of the fresh soil before the leaves fall and the 
earth loses the warmth so essential to the for¬ 
mation of fresh rootlets. But amatenrs and 
others who have not seen thi9 operation skilfully 
performed must not suppose that root pruning 
means a general cutting away of ail the roots 


336 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sbpt. 2!l, 1883. 


which extend beyond a certain line and then 
filling the trench in again, The proper way is 
to open out a trench at the extremity of the 
principal roots, and then with steel forks to work 
inwards until a goodly number of the strongest 
roots have been traced to within a reasonable 
distance below the surface of the border. These 
will then require slightly cutting back with a 
sharp knife, and the work of re-laying in fresh 
loam, which must be made very firm by ramming, 
will follow as the trench is filled in again. If 
the old compost is really good, a small quantity 
of fresh loam will suffice, and the addition of 
manure, as a mulching only, will complete the 
operation. Where the formation of new orchards 
is contemplated, thorough draining must precede 
all other operations. Trenching as deep as the 
soil will allow will then follow, and the time of 
planting will be regulated by the soil. Free, 
friable loams may be planted at once ; but cold, 
heavy soils often require turning over a second 
time, and full exposure to the action of frost 
before they arc fit for the reception of the trees. 
Soils of this description may be greatly improved 
by the addition of burnt earth or garden refuse, 
road scrapings, or old lime rubble, and in some 
cases it may be necessary to crop with Potatoes 
or other vegetables for a year before the trees 
are permanently planted. The trees may, how¬ 
ever, be bought in and grown on in nursery 
lines, when all doubtful or defective trees will 
be detected before the final arrangement takes 
place. 

Melons. 

Now is the time to apply artificial bottom-heat 
to the late Melons (if in pots) by means of 
fermenting material and hot-water pipes com¬ 
bined ; but, if planted out on hills, fire-heat only 
can be used, when more water and atmospheric 
moisture will, as a matter of course, be required to 
counteract its drying influence. Early morning, 
after this time, should always be devoted to 
watering, for, much as the Melon rejoices in plenti¬ 
ful supplies of warm, stimulating liquid, it is impa- 
tient of stagnant moisture about its stems and 
leaves after the house is closed for the night. 
Regulate the foliage, and keep it thinly placed to 
admit of a free circulation of dry, warm air when 
solar influences favour ventilation, and, most 
important of all, wage incessant war with insect 
pests before they have time to gain a footing, as 
good quality cannot be expected where the leaves 
ripen in advance of the fruit. Keep plants in 
pits and frames as dry and warm as possible by 
means of fresh linings, by judicious thinning of 
the soft lateral growths, and by the use of a good 
covering at night. 

Vegetables. 

Tomatoes, 

which are daily growing into more and more 
importance, will not ripen here, 1 feel sure; 
therefore, I am cutting those just tinged with 
colour, and placing them over hot-water pipes in 
our late vineries. This is a capital time to put 
in cuttings, and if selected from the smooth 
fruiting plants and those that bear satisfactorily, 
the stock will be kept improving. My stock has 
been selected some years from Hathaway’s, but 
I am a gTeat admirer of Carter’s Green Gage. 
The flavour is more refined, and the texture of a 
finer description. Small fruit simply put into 
bottles filled with white vinegar, with a few 
capsicums and peppercorns, will make an ex¬ 
cellent pickle. If French Beans are not already 
sown, get them in at once. I have a houseful 
sown in boxes 3 feet long and 11 inches broad. 
Canadian Wonder we always sow for an autumn 
and early spring supply, but Osborn’s for mid¬ 
winter is preferable in more ways than one. Do 
not forget to see that slugs are not eating the 
young Lettuce and Cabbage plants. I was told 
last week by an amateur to sow dust on them 
twice a week, and leave the rest to Dame Nature. 
Our Mushroom beds for autumn are now all 
spawned, sealed, and thatched with rough grass 
(keeping out the wet after spawning is one of 
the secrets of success). We are now cutting 
Bracken for winter covering; when cut green 
the fronds keep intact. We find this invaluable 
for covering all kinds of Broccoli, Celery, and 
Mushrooms; in fact, we cover everything up 
that is likely to suffer, even Lettuce and Endive. 
It is light and clean, and in most places it can 
be had in any quantity.—S. 

Vol. I. ’'Qardafalng ” U out otphnt»aml we »re 
therefore anahlo to curt he* nm 'If Uthc: separate copies 
or bound volume*. X.— M ft V_ 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

It is now getting time to think about housing 
many things that have been standing out-of- 
doors during the last few months. Of course, 
it is much better for everything, or nearly every¬ 
thing, to stand outside as long as it may safely 
be left, yet at the same time, and even in the 
case of comparatively hardy things, such as 
Geraniums, Ac., it is very desirable that they 
should not be in the least degree injured by 
frost or damp. Therefore, it is well to keep a 
sharp look out for cold nights and early frosts, 
and on the first indication of inclement weather, 
get everything safely under cover before any 
damage has been done. 

When bringing the stock indoors, every pot 
and plant should be carefully looked over and 
cleaned, removing all dead leaves, weeds, and 
outside dirt, and everything placed in the 
position most likely to suit it. The great 
difficulty, especially where there is only one 
moderate sized house to accommodate every¬ 
thing, is, that all cannot possibly be put just 
where they would do best. Any plants which 
are wanted to bloom in the winter, such as Zonal 
Geraniums, l’rimulas, Cinerarias, early Azaleas, 
Ac., need a place on a shelf near the 
glass, but then all bedding plants, par¬ 
ticularly freshly rooted cuttings, require the 
same position to give them a fair chance, and 
as all cannot have the same desired space, it is 
often a puzzling matter to know what to do; 
still, with a little discrimination a great deal 
may be done. Fuchsias, which of course are now 
going to rest, need comparatively little light, and 
may indeed be packed away underneath the 
stage, if not too cold and dark. Begonias and 
other similar plants approaching the resting 
period, may be similarly disposed of if they 
have been properly ripened off, not otherwise. 

Dahlias and other tender, tuberous-rooted 
plants, such as Begonias, now growing in the 
open beds, are better left undisturbed until their 
tops are cut down by frost, then take them up, 
slightly dry the roots, and store them in a place 
that is neither very damp nor dry, very cold or 
hot, such as a frost-proof cellar. Chrysanthe¬ 
mums must still be liberally supplied with liquid 
manure now while the buds are forming, but 
when these are well set and about the size of a 
large pea, very gradually reduce the quantity 
and strength as the days grow shorter, until the 
colour begins to show, when it should be dis¬ 
continued altogether. 

Small bushy plants of Chrysanthemums taken 
up from the open ground and carefully potted 
when coming into flower, last a long time 
indoors. The Pompone kinds are best suited to 
this treatment. B. C. R. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Continued from page 292.) 

Staking and Tying Flowers. 

This is work which should be done by anticipa¬ 
tion, as it were, as a blown-down plant cannot 
be put back in exactly the same position again. 
Neither the stake nor the tie adds anything to the 
beauty of the plant, and should be employed 
only just so far as they are necessary; and this 
refers to all flowers alike. The stake should be 
placed at the back of the plant, or, if there are 
many flowering shoots, it will be better in the 
centre, so that they can be linked up loosely all 
round. It takes a little more time, perhaps, to 
tie up a Phlox, or any other plant producing 
several flower spikes from one root—to link each 
stem up separately in an easy flowing manner, 
where the motion of the air can be felt by the 
branches—than to tie them up in a bundle either 
with or without a stick in the middle, but other¬ 
wise there is no question as to which plan is 
best; and these bundled np flowers soon wither 
and die, for, lacking air, the leaves turn yellow 
and rot the stems if rain comes. In tying up 
anything that is in the midst of growth, such as 
Dahlias for instance, room must be left for the 
stem to swell; much injury is done by tbe inex¬ 
perienced through not thinking about the rapid 
way in which the stems of some plants grow in 
early summer. Another disadvantage of the 
bundle system is—the strings are sure to give way 
during a windy time, and the plant be blown 
down and spoiled for the season. The best and 
cheapest material for tying flowers is the foliage 
of a kind of Grass or leaf called ltaffia. It is 


very strong when twisted, and will last one 
season very well. 

Stopping Summer Growths. 

Some people think the unstopped plant 
becomes stronger than the one that is pruned or 
pinched. Acting on this principle, a neighbour 
who had made a new lawn by sowing Grass 
seeds, refused to allow his man to cut the young 
Grasses till they had grown up into flower, and 
then was surprised to find how bare and naked 
(he ground was when at last he had them mown. 
In planting a forest tree, let the leader grow un¬ 
stopped ; but with many plants, if beauty of 
outline is required, more or less of pinching is 
necessary, in order to get that dense, bushy 
habit which is required for covering the ground 
quickly. Then, again, modern ideas of garden¬ 
ing, especially in summer, require a great blaze 
of blossomB at some particular time—when the 
family returns from the metropolis or some 
foreign excursion, and pinching enables us to 
time the thing so as to get a grand display for 
the home-coming. We all know how first im¬ 
pressions cling to us and linger with us. All 
pinching or stopping in summer should be done 
when simply removing the terminal bud will 
suffice; then the plant feels little or no check, 
the pair of buds just beneath break into growth, 
and we have just about double the number of 
shoots striking upwards which the unstopped 
plant possessed, and by and bye there will be, in 
all probability, just double the number of flower¬ 
ing shoots which the plant would have borne if 
it had been left alone. But this pinch¬ 
ing must be applied judiciously; to apply the 
principle indiscriminately would, in many cases, 
be unsatisfactory in its results. For instance, 
to pinch a Dahlia, or a Phlox, or a Hollyhock, 
would lessen the plant’s nobility of aspect by 
decreasing the size of the flower-spike, and alter¬ 
ing its character and outline. Who would ever 
think, for instance, of pinching the flowering 
growth of the Yucca, or plant of like character ? 
But the Chrysanthemum, the Paris Daisy, and 
many annuals of loose habit, are improved and 
made more effective by nipping off the points of 
straggling shoots before they get away too far, 
but to be of advantage it must be done before 
the shoots extend much. 

Saving and Gathering Seeds. 

There is a good deal of interest inspired by 
raising seedling flowers, especially when the 
flowers have been fertilised by our own hands 
with strange pollen with the view of obtaining 
a new and distinct progeny'. It is true, dis¬ 
appointments are numerous; and no man, not 
even the least sanguine, perhaps, ever obtains 
his ideal; but success of some kind will surely 
be given to all who deserve it by holding on to 
the end. Many of the best Roses and other 
flowers have been obtained from flowers which 
have not been artificially hybridised. A collec¬ 
tion of the best known varieties have been got 
together in the same garden near each other, 
and the seeds from the lot planted and grown 
on together till they flowered. In many cases 
the parentage of new flowers can be distinctly 
traced in their appearance. Apart from the 
interest attached to the raising of new varieties 
of plants by hybridising, a good deal of useful 
work may be done by selection, and in main¬ 
taining purity of stock in any good old-fashioned 
flowers that everybody does, or would like to, 
grow. All seeds should be gathered when dry, 
and just before they are ripe, but with sufficient 
sap in the outer covering of all the pods to 
complete the process of ripening. When 
gathered, the pods should be placed in saucers 
or in paper-lined boxes in an airy room for a 
week or longer, till the seeds are thoroughly- 
ripened, when they may be rubbed out, cleaned, 
placed in packets, and stored away in a drawer 
in a dry, cool place till the season for sowing 
comes round, whether that be in autumn or 
spring. As a rule, most of tbe flower and other 
seeds are sown in spring; and though that is the 
custom, it does not follow that in every case it 
is the most suitable time- in truth, many of 
what are called hardy annnals make stronger 
and better plants if sown in autumn as soon as 
ripe. In the case of most things, new seeds are 
better than old ones, though nearly all seeds 
will grow very well the second year. A growth 
of 75 per cent, even of new seeds is not a bad 
perceninge, as in all families there aie weaklings, 
and of course every year after the percentage 



Sept. 29, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


33? 



decreases; bat in the preservation of the 
vitality of a seed much depends upon its being 
kept dry and cool. 

Destroying Weeds. 

The old adage, “ one year’s seeding makes 
6evcn years' weeding,” is not far from being true, 
and it costs more to hare a garden weedy than 
to keep it clean, unless it is allowed to run wild 
altogether with no useful crops in it. When 
weeds get the upper hand, one must always be 
weeding and yet never be clean, because, when 
the land has become foul, no sooner U one crop 
rooted up or hoed down, than another springs up 
in its place. Jf the weedy beds are trenched up 
deeply in winter, burying the surface in the 
bottom, many of the weeds and their seeds will 
perish. Salt sprinkled evenly over the surfaco 
of weedy ground or walks, will speedily kill the 
weeds. It is more effective in fine bright 
weather, and ms4 not be applied near anything 
in the shape of a tree, shrub, or plant, of any 
value, as if given strong enough to kill weeds 
it will kill anything. The Dutch hoe in the 
hands of an industrious man is the best weapon 
for fighting the weeds with, when the surface is 
dry ; of course it is of no use hoeing when wet. 
Catch the weeds when germinating, or when 
they dre in an infant state, and stir up and 
expose the surfaco on a warm, sunny day. This 
should be done often, for it is wonderful, if left 
to themselves for a short time, how the weeds 
rise up again. Besides, land that is full of weeds 
soon becomes a breeding ground of all kinds of 
garden enemies. Snails and slugs abound in 
slovenly gardens, for they dislike the disturbing 
influence of the hoe, and will either perish or 
take themselves off. It requires a good deal of 
determination to take in hand and go through 
with a weedy garden, but it can be done by 
constantly fighting them with the hoe and 
the fork when they are small. In hoeing, 
the whole surface must be stirred, not 
to thrust in the hoe here and there, making 
believe of stirring it all, but not actually doing 
so. I suppose weeds were sent to punish the 
procrastinator and the sluggard. Those who take 
time by the forelock are not much bothered with 
them, and the frequent stirring of the Boil, which 
it is necessary to give to keep down the weeds, 
has a wonderful effect upon the growth of all 
cultivated plants. I consider that an abundant 
use of the hoe, apart from destroying weeds, 
does pay for the labour in the extra value of the 
crop. 

Rustic Seats and Summer-Houses. 

These a re only really used in summer, for people 
do not care to sit in the open air in wet or cold 
weather. This fact being recognised, it will, I 
think, be conceded that the correct site for such 
embellishments should be sought for in some 
retired spot sheltered from the mid-day sun, 
partially embowered in tree foliage, or smothered 
with climbing Roses or other creepers. Weeping 
trees, such as the Ash, Lime, or Willow, are 
appropriate shelters for rustic seats. Any spot 
from which a fine view can be obtained forma a 
suitable site for a rustic summer-house or seat; 
but even then the back should be hidden amid 
foliage, the front and the roof only peeping out. 
The placing of moveable chairs of more or less 
ornamental character and design about the 
gardens or grounds is a different matter, and as 
they can be shifted from place to place easily, 
there is no question of principle in the matter. 

E. Hobday. 

OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


Adam’s Needles (Yuccas).—There is such 
a distinctive, graceful appearance about several 
varieties of this genus, that they must be placed 
in the very fore front of ornamental plants for 
the flower garden. Greenhouse varieties may be 
used for standard or dot plants in summer 
foliage bedding, and hardy kinds for a like 
purpose in winter, and for grouping on the turf 
as permanent plants. Recurva, filamentosa, 
gloriosa, and stricta are the best hardy Yuccas, 
and kinds that will grow well in any kind of 
soil provided it be well drained. The green¬ 
house varieties aloifolia, a. variegata, serrulata, 
and superba, which make excellent plants for 
association with summer bedding succulents, 
can with safety be planted out early in May, and 
they may be left out without being in danger of 
injury fiom frost till tie end «f Coiobet. >A1I 
the kinds arc propagate«hyMttfiLg uialHeHarge 


roots into eyes, inserting them in sandy soil, and 
placing them in heat. Yuccas also sometimes 
throw up suckers from the roots, which, if 
severed with a piece of root attached to them, 
make plants much more quickly than do eyes 
taken from the roots. 

Ivy as a gate ornament.— I am growing 
Ivy in a position which, as far as I know, is novel, 
aod may be worth your notice. We have a stable 
yard gate, close paled, which is in sight from the 
house. An Ivy is planted by the hanging post 
aod nailed to the upper part of the gate imme¬ 
diately above, it is trained thence all over the 
gate, and is in a flourishing condition. The 
length of the stem free from the ground to the 
top of the gate allows of the required free play 
on opening and shutting,— Henry Carr. 

Inula glandulosa —The handsome hardy 
perennial, of which a woodcut is hero given, is 


FRUIT. 

FRUIT TREES FOR SMALL GARDENS. 

10287.—An amateur who has only a small 
piece of ground, and who wishes to have some 
fruit trees in it, cannot do better than plant a 
doxen or more of dwarf Apple trees, and keep 
them dwarf by pruning as low as ordinary-sized 
Gooseberry bushes. Thcro are many good reasons 
for preferring dwarf trees in small gardens— 
they occupy comparatively little space, and do 
not render any of the ground around them 
useless by their shade. They are, besides, easy 
of access for the purposes of pruning, dressing, 
and picking off withered blossom and super¬ 
abundant fruit. Much of this work is often 
delayed or neglected in the case of tall 
standards, and even wall trees, and that merely 
because it is troublesome, and some special 


Flower head ot Inula glaniluloia. Colour bright orange. 


a native of Georgia (in Asia), and flowers in 
June. It flowers well and increases fast; it re¬ 
quires no special soil or treatment. The colour 
is bright orange-yellow. The flower is very 
ornamental, the long rays hanging round the 
prominent disk in a way which always reminds 
one of the firework called a “ tourbillon.” 
Though the plant is correctly described and 
figured in Loudon’s “ Encyclopedia,” where we 
are told that it was introduced in 1804, there 
appears to have been some confusion between 
this and I. Oculus-Chrisli in the naming, for 
both at Kewand at Chiswick that species, which 
has small shabby flowers, I saw labelled I. glan¬ 
dulosa.—C. W. D. 

10332 . — Disease In Hollyhocks. — 

Powdered sulphur will not touch the disease 
when it is rampant. You must pick off the 
diseased leaves, and dip or wash the healthy 
ones in soft, soapy water, in which a quantity of 
flowers of sulphur has been dissolved. The leaves 
must be picked off as fast as the disease appears 
on them, and the washing repeated time after 
time.—J. D. E. 


time has to be set apart for it. But with the 
dwarf Apple trees, the amateur may wander 
about amongst them, daring a leisure hour, 
with his pipe in his mouth and one hand in 
pocket, and perform all the operations required 
as efficiently as if be had taken off his coat and 
turned up his sleeves and made the other usual 
preparations for a hard day'B work. Then, again, 
these dwarf trees are easily lifted and trans¬ 
planted in some other and more suitable place. 
They seldom suffer, but rather are generally 
benefited by the change, even although they 
may be many years old. 

About ten years ago I got a dozen dwarf 
Apple trees and planted them in two rows along 
a border, and at intervals of six feet. The 
exposure and slope of the ground is to the north. 
The soil is naturally a heavy, cold -clay, but it 
has been much improved by digging and manu¬ 
ring, and the small garden is surrounded by an 
eight feet brick wall. Each tree when put in 
had three single branches springing from the 
main stem about six inches above the surface 
of the grounds and ending in long, lust-year s 










338 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sept. 20, 1883. 


shoots. These last-year’s shoots were pruned 
back to the fourth or fifth eye, and next year 
each single branch had become a double or a 
triple one. This process of cutting back last 
year’s wood to the fourth or fift h eye was repeated 
every year until the trees had reached a height 
of about four feet, and where the young growth 
was not required to form branches, it was cut 
back close. After they reached this height all 
the new wood was cut back every year to the 
last eye, and the trees have consequently not 
been allowed to add scarce anything either to 
their height or breadth. Meanwhile they 
become covered with fruit-bearing spurs. To 
give the trees a shapely form, some care and 
attention were bestowed in selecting the eyes 
which were to be allowed to grow next year. 
Generally, an eye on the outer side of the twig 
and pointing upwards was selected, whether it 
was the fourth or fifth or sixth. This helps to 
make the form of the tree full, round and bushy. 
Frequently, however, other eyes had to be taken 
merely because they pointed in the direction of 
a space that required some filling up. 

So far as manuring is concerned, these dwarf 
trees are treated very much as if they were 
Gooseberry bushes. The bed is dug every winter 
or spriDg, after getting a liberal spreading of 
old stable manure, and in spring and during 
early summer the trees get several doses of liquid. 
When the blossom is setting they require to be 
gone over frequently, and the withered blooms 
picked off to prevent caterpillars from lodging 
about them and fastening upon the young fruit. 
When two or more Apples are growing in 
a cluster, they should be separated occasionally 
to see that no caterpillar has taken up its quar¬ 
ters at the points where the Apples touch each 
other. I have even made a practice of clearing 
away many of the leaves nearest the fruit, and 
all those leaves which have got curled up, and 
which probably have a caterpillar inside, I either 
squeeze flat or take off altogether. This exposes 
the fruit to air and sunshine, and for the same 
reason I seldom allow more than two Apples to 
grow touching each other, and, when the number 
on a tree will permit it, I grow every Apple 
singly and apart. 

The best of the dozen trees are Lord Suffield, 
Ecklinville Seedling, Stirling Castle, and Cellini, 
but Early Almond and another, the name of 
which I have lost, also do well. One of the 
Lord Suffields, which is about 3 feet 6 inches in 
height, and about 2 feet 6 inches in width, was 
transplanted by a gardener about eight years 
ago during the month of November. It bore a 
small crop the following summer, and has con¬ 
tinued bearing plentifully ever since. This year 
it was covered with blossom, and about sixty 
apples set, but as I prefer having a few good- 
sized apples to a crowd of small ones, I reduced 
the number to twenty by picking off all the 
smaller and weaker ones, and at present the 
little tree with its twenty large apples is quite a 
picture. A Cellini which is a half larger than 
this Lord Suffield has borne about two hundred 
medium-sized and small apples, and of these 
about one hundred and ten have been allowed 
to remain, and every branch is studded with 
Apples along nearly half its length. I merely 
point to these as specimens of what may be ex¬ 
pected by anyone who may adopt this system of 
growing dwarf Apple trees. P. R. 

-The principal thing to do is to prepare 

the soil by trenching it; if the soil is rich, give 
no manure; if poor, a light dressing of rotten 
stable manure would be best. As the garden is 
small, it will be best to plant Pears on the 
Quince stock, Apples on the Paradise, and Cher¬ 
ries on the Cerasus Mahaleb. The best varieties 
would be, of Apples, kitchen, in order of their 
ripening, Lord Suffield,Cox’s PomoDa, Ecklinville 
Seedling, Cellini, Rymer, and Dumelow’s Seed¬ 
ling ; dessert Apples, Quarrenden, Kerry Pippin, 
Cox’s Orange Pippin, Rib ton Pippin, Adams’s 
Pearmain, and Sturmer Pippin. Pears, Jargo¬ 
nelle, Williams’s Ron Chretien, Beurre d'Amanlis, 
Louise Bonne of Jersey, Marie Louise, and 
Doyenne’ du Comice; Cherries, May Duke, 
Governor Wood, Rivers’s Early Black, Kentish, 
and Morello—the two last for cooking; Tlums, 
Greengage, Jefferson, Kirke’s, these three for 
dessert; the best three kitchen are Orleans, Vic¬ 
toria, and Diamond.—J. D. E. 


10311 PlantlM-JStrawberides— They 


may be planted afi 




er crop; 


but they like rich, deep soil, and we would cer¬ 
tainly trench and manure the ground. Of 
course, you may get the plants to grow and 
produce fruit if the soil is not deep and rich. 
Wireworms will not do much harm, but we 
would certainly trap them, by putting thick 
slices of Potatoes or Carrots underground. If 
they are stuck on the end of a stick, it will be 
easy to examine them daily, by pulling out the 
sticks with the bait and worms attached to it. 
Kill the worms, and bury the baits for another 
haul.—J. D. E. 

10265.— Neglected Peach trees.— The 

best thing to do would be to cut them well 
b ack. It would be best to do it in February be¬ 
fore the trees start into growth. If they were 
cut back now, probably a severe winter might be 
injurious. Wall trees of this kind may be cut 
back to a few feet of the ground and 6tart well 
well again.—J. D. E. 

10291 .—Keeping Grapes.— Let them hang 
on the Vine till the first week in the new year. 
Cut the lateral growth with the bunch attached, 
and insert the cut end in a bottle of water ; 
the water has to be renewed frequently, as a 
large bunch of Grapes takes up a good deal. 
A few bits of charcoal ought to be put in the 
water to keep it sweet. They should be 
kept in a dry room, with frost excluded.—J. D. E. 

10313.-Outdoor Vines.—Tho beat way ia to cut 
them down and let them make new wood. Train the 
young roda up 2 feet 6 inches apart. You must study 
your Gardening for full details of management.— 
J. D. E. 


VEGETABLES 


Walker’s Perpetual Bearer Pea.— 

I purchased a shilling’s worth of this new variety 
of Pea last March, and my purchase was fifty 
Peas, but when these were properly picked over 
I found but twenty-nine fit to sow. These I 
sowed 9 inches apart in the row, and a sorry lot 
they looked when they firstcame up. “ Hoe them 
up,” said a friend, “and put in some more; they 
are not worth planting." But I let them stay, 
and in July my friend called upon me, re¬ 
marking, “You have sowed some fre.'h Peas here, 
then.” “Indeed I have no t,” I remarked. “Well,” 
he says, “ I never could have realised the fact 
unless I had seen it; ” but he did not make this 
observation until he had carefully counted each 
stalk. These Peas spread out and formed a 
complete row in every respect as if I had sown a 
pint of ordinary Peas. Quite as many Peas were 
gathered from this row as from any other row in 
the garden, and the flavour wa< all that could be 
desired. I can confidently recommend this Pea 
for general cultivation.— Dianthgs. 

10286. — Wintering Saleafy.— Salsafy 
may be left in the ground or dug up as wanted. 
The best way of cooking it is as follows, viz., 
the great secret in dressing Salsafy is not to 
scrape it before it is boiled. You must wash it 
clean, and put it into hot water, and boil it until 
it becomes tender to the squeeze. Then with a 
piece of muslin wipe off the outside bark and 
stringy bits ; then cut it into bits and put it to 
boil in some hot milk. For mock oysters, mix 
up some flour, pepper, butter, and salt; add a 
little nice cream. Put some bread crumbs at the 
bottom of the scallop shell, add the Salsafy in 
pieces about the size of an oyster, and finish as 
you would escalloped oysters. Sometimes Salsafy 
is served whole in white sauce, but it must be 
cooked on the same principle.—E. H. 


ROSES. 

10317. — Roses for walls. — From the 
middle of September to the middle of October is 
the best time to propagate these varieties by 
taking cuttings. In taking the cuttings, those 
that have well matured their growth and are 
strong and straight should be selected. And in 
detaching these from the parent plants, take 
with them a small portion of the previous year’s 
growth; and in doing this it is readily under¬ 
stood that not many cuttings should be removed 
near to one another, or the parent plant will be 
mutilated, whereas a thinning out where they 
are crowded proves beneficial. In making the 
cuttings, cut their base cleanly through just 
where the season’s growth has started from, 
taking rather a thin slice of last year's wood to 
form a heel to the cutting. They should then be 
shortened at the top to t) inches or 10 inches in 


leDgth, and are in this condition ready for being 
put into the ground or pot. If in the ground,, 
put in the cuttings in rows 1 foot apart and 
from 5 inches to 6 inches between each cutting 
A border with a west or east aspect answers well 
for putting them in. The following is a list of 
good climbing varieties:—Mar6chal Niel, Gloire 
de Dijon, Dundee Rambler, Banksian white, 
Banksian yellow, Boursault common, China 
common, Anna Alexieff, General Jacqueminot, 
Madame Demage, Mrs. Rivers, Aimee Vibert* 
Felicity perp6tu6. The price generally charged 
by nurserymen is from 12s. to 18s. per dozen 
plants.— J. W. Kitchin. 

10354.—Soil for Roses.—Sods dug a month will 
answer well to renew the soil in a Rofe bed, and yon can 
scarcely get better manure than that from the piggery 
two or three months old. It would answer equally well 
with a little stable manure mixed with it.—J. 1). E. 


Flowers and plants in rooms.— The 

last of the Gladioli are arranged in two tall 
bouquets, one of red and salmon-coloured with 
autumn-tinted Bracken, deep orange, rusty red, 
and deep red bronze; the other of the pink and 
rosy colourings with pale green shoots of Canna. 
Another large bouquet has a foundation of 
darkest foliage of Portugal Laurel with white 
Japan Anemones and single white Dahlias. A 
large bowl is filled with Heliotrope, light and 
dark, with leafy twigs of Lavender. In white 
china, clusters of Sweet Brier berries are grouped 
with the dark bronze-tinted and red foliage and 
handsome black berries of Rosa spinosissima and 
its varieties the Scotch Briers ; the latter have 
the smaller fruit, but the leaves more brightly 
coloured. Rosy pink and white Scabious make a 
pretty table bouquet with foliage of Sea Holly 
and Cineraria maritima. Lilium speciosum, two 
or three whole growths cut 2 feet long, is in a 
tall buff-coloured oriental jar with side shoots of 
variegated Maize. An oval Venetian embossed 
copper holds two plants of large white-flowered 
Bouvardia, surrounded by various Ferns of lower 
growth, all carpeted with fresh Moss. 


SOWING SEEDS. 

Spring is the generally recognised seed time, 
but still each month of the year gives us some¬ 
thing to do in that way. In the case of imported 
seeds, I find from long experience that if they are 
sown as soon as received they often germinate 
readily, while if kept for a time they absolutely 
refuse to do so. Such being the case, it is evident 
that there is less risk of failure by sowing at once, 
even if it be in the depth of winter, when the 
young seedlings will require very careful atten¬ 
tion till spring sets in. In the case of seeds 
received during the winter, toy practice is to sow 
one half at once and reserve the other half till a 
more suitable season, that is if there be sufficient 
to divide in this way; the latest sown, if they 
germinate, make more vigorous plants than 
the others. Some of the tropical Leguminosro are 
very hard and stubborn subjects to deal with; so 
much so, that it is best to soak them in warm 
water for a few days before sowing just to soften 
the outside covering. Many cut or file them for 
the same purpose, but soaking is best. Place them 
in small pans filled with water set on the hot- 
water pipes where a regular temperature ia 
maintained, and take care to keep the pans 
always full of water, as if the seeds get dry 
after being once excited the germ will perish. 
Sow as soon as there is the least sign of life, 
keep them moderately moist, and, if possible, 
give them a little bottom-heat till they appear 
above ground. 

Palm seeds now largely imported should always 
be sown as soon as they arrive, for some of them 
quickly loose their vitality. Although to outward 
appearance perfectly sound, it will sometimes be 
found on cutting them open that the embryo is 
somewhat shrivelled ; when such is the case, but 
few plants need be looked for. Sow them in 
pans or boxes of loamy soil, adding at the same 
time a little sand to keep it open, and cover the 
seed to about its own depth. As soon as the youDg 
plants are up they should be potted off singly, as 
stout vigorous roots are quickly produced, and 
when allowed to become long and matted it is 
difficult to get them into pots without injury. In 
potting them off use the same soil as that for 
sowing, and do not bury them too deep, a reliable 
guide in this respect being to leave the still 
attached seed just on a level with the soil. 

In the case cf minute seeds, cover very lightly 
if at all, and place a pane of glass over the pot 




Sept. 2!), 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


339 


till germination takes place, when it must be at 
once removed. Such as Heaths, Epacris, Mela¬ 
leuca, Leptospermum, and the many minute 
seeded Australian or Cape shrubs prefer a soil 
composed principally of sandy peat, and, whether 
sown in pots or pans, good drainage is essential. 
Care should be taken not to sow too thickly, or 
it will be necessary to prick them off when so ] 
small that they can only be handled with i 
difficulty ; besides, when crowded, mildew is apt 
to set in, and it is very difficult indeed to 
eradicate it when once established. All pulpy 
seeds, even if the flesh is still adhering when 
received, should be cleaned before sowing. 

In the case of unknown seeds, do not throw 
them away until satisfied from examination that 
they are dead, as some kinds will lie a long time, 
and at last grow. I have frequently noticed 
after turning out a potful of seeds that had laid 
so long as to be thought dead, that when 
replaced in fresh soil they at once started to 
grow. The age of seeds, no donbt, has a great 
deal to do with the time during which they lie 
in the ground. A good illustration of this is 
found in the case of seeds of Primula japonica; 
they germinate at once if sown fresh, but if kept 
will lie for years after sowing without coming 
up. The watering-pot requires careful using in 
the case of fine seeds, or they will be all washed 
towards one side of the pot. When there is any 
fear of such happening, the pot, when dry, should 
be placed in a couple of inches of water for a 
little time, when the moisture will percolate 
through the whole of the soil, and wet it 
thoroughly without disturbing the smallest 
particle, either of soil or seed on the surface. 

T. 


WASPS IN GARDENS. 

Wasps are, and have been, troublesome this 
season. They are considered by some to be 
scavengers, but the good, if any, they do in that 
way is small compared with the injury they work 
on fruit, which, during a dry, hot time, they 
devour wholesale, as may be seen by the husks 
they leave hanging on the Gooseberry bushes, 
which they completely clear out of their pulp. 
If this were all they might be tolerated; but 
they also attack the best Peaches and Nectarines, 
the choicest Plums and Apricots, and eat up all 
the Grapes they can get at. To keep them from 
these latter is a tolerably easy matter, as with 
coarse muslin the openings in vineries for venti¬ 
lation may be covered, and the provoking 
marauders excluded; but to protect the trees 
on walls in a similar way is quite out of the 
question. The best plan to adopt is to search 
oat and destroy the nests, which may be found 
by watching closely the course which the wasps 
take, and if this is done early in the morning 
when the sun is rising they may be seen afar, as 
they look large and show up in the distance, and 
the same again in the eveniDg. There are various 
ways of getting rid of the nests, the most 
expeditious perhaps being by the aid of turpen¬ 
tine. This, if forced into the hole by forming a 
plug of wadding soaked in it, and banking up 
the mouth of the hole with earth, will stifle ail 
that are inside. Tar, used in a similar manner, 
also answers well, especially if it has a little 
turpentine stirred up in it; but, where nests 
exist where they can be got at, the surest way is 
to squib the holes, and then dig the nests out. 
Powder and sulphur, in the proportion of one 
part of powder to three of sulphur, make capital 
squibs, as the fumes are driven in by the force 
of the powder, and the sulphurous smoke is so 
stifling that the wasps are stupefied by its action 
as soon as it reaches them, and while in that 
state may be dug out and destroyed. The right 
time for the work is late at night, when the 
wasps are all at home; but, as they are ever on 
the alert, it is necessary even then to approach 
them quietly, or they become disturbed, and the 
watchers are soon out and about. Besides 
destroying every nest that can be found, it ought 
to be the business of every one who has a garden 
to entrap wasps, as by so doing their numbers 
may be greatly diminished. An excellent trap 
may be made by using two hand-glasses placed 
one above the other, with the bottom one on 
bricks, so as to raise it clear from the ground. 
To let the wasps into the upper glass, a small 
hole must be made in the top of the lower, I 
through which they will enter and never find j 
their way back. Fallen Apples, or any. waste 
fruit, or treacle or suiar, answer fpa flatting- | 
under the lights as a d^©dllAto be 


hung about there is nothing equal to a mixture 
of sugar and beer. So successful have we been 
with these that we have emptied out over half a 
peck of drowned wasps; and always in the 
autumn we get an immense lot of queens, as they 
are out of the nests then in search of safe, dry 
quarters to lie up for the winter. I find that 
the best bottles for entrapping wasps are those 
that are very clear and moderately small, with 
open months. S. D. i 

NATIONAL CHRYSANTHEMUM SHOW. 

All true florists have, I believe, been pleased 
to see the great success that has attended the 
efforts of the newly formed “ National Dahlia 
Society,” as proved by their show at the Crystal 
Palace. This seems to be the age of specialties. 
We have our national organisations for Roses, 
Tulips, Carnations, Potatoes, and now Dahlias, 
and 1 should like to know how it is that some 
national society has not been started in the 
interest of that “ queen of autumn flowers,” the 
Chrysanthemum, which comes to gladden our 
hearts with its beauty at a season when other 
flowers are scarce, and which will grow in 
situations where others would perish. There is 
perhaps no flower that has more local societies 
formed for promoting its culture, and yet, as far 
as I know, they are all without a recognised head 
and centre. 

How is this ? There is, we know, plenty of 
enthusiasm amongst the great number of men 
who grow this plant. I would therefore suggest 
that some steps be taken toward placing the 
“ Autumn Queen ” on a footing with her worthy 
compeers of other seasons. Support, pecuniary 
and otherwise, is sure to be forthcoming, if only 
some of our influential and well-known horti¬ 
culturists take the initiative. The way is easy, 
success is sure, and might be accomplished in 
several ways. Either let a new society be 
formed, or, still better, let one of our many local 
or suburban societies take the matter up, and 
form a nucleus for a national. I for one am fully 
prepared to support any such movement as far 
as 1 can, and as I have the honour to be one of 
the Exhibition Committee of the oldest Chry¬ 
santhemum Society—the Borough of Hackney— 
I have had some opportunity of forming an 
opinion on the matter. 

I should be glad if some of our great growers 
of the flower would favour us with their views, 
and also the executives of the existing local 
societies. In order that the movement should 
be a success, it must be taken up with spirit and 
unanimity. H. F. 

Bees and Dahlias.— I should like to draw 
the attention of horticulturists to the shockingly 
dissipated habits of the bumble bees this season. 
These insects apparently leave home in the 
most respectable manner, and at a sufficiently 
early hour to do a fair day’s work. Up to about 
3 o’clock in the afternoon the most exacting 
employer could not be dissatisfied with their 
exertions, if they were working for him; but 
after that time they leave the flowers where, 
seemingly, only teetotal beverages are obtainable 
and hasten off to the single Dahlias, and there, 

I grieve to add, these once respectablebumi le bees 
remain drinking until they become shamefully 
intoxicated. Of course, they may be seen 
“ dropping in” on these Dahlias once or twice in 
the morning, but it would be only for a moment 
to get a nip, ora “ S. and B.,” but in the afternoon 
the single Dahlias are the scene of a bumble bee 
carouse. Walking through my garden in the 
evening, I am shocked to see numbers of these 
bees lying dead drunk in the Dahlias. I carried 
several of them away from the Dahlias and 
tucked them up safely in a Pentstemon, having 
first, metaphorically speaking, pulled off their 
boots and loosened their shirt-collars. Alas ! they 
seemed to think they were in temperance 
quarters, and only struggled out of the Pentstemon 
tube again and staggered off in the direction of 
the Dahlias. I also tried the effect of a shampoo 
on one, deluging him with water; he appeared 
much refreshed, sat up and looked about him, 
then sauntered to the edge of the petal and 
looked at the sunset. Either fear of curtain 
lectures or a want of resolution overcame him, 
for he turned back to the yellow centre of the 
Dahlia, and an hour afterwards I saw him lying 
there on his side twice as bad as he was before. 
—Brockley. 

Cure for bee-BtlDgs— Some notes have! 
lately appeared in the daily papers on the value 


of onion juice in cases of wasp and bee-stings. 
I have lately had ocoasion to test the advice, and 
find it so valuable that I recommend it to the 
notice of yonr readers. Three days ago, while 
working in the garden, I was stung on the band 
by a bumble-bee, and remembering what I had 
read about the use of onion, went to the 
gardener’s cottage, about a hundred yards distant, 
to get one, and, cutting a little piece out of the 
top, rubbed it well into the sting, at the samo 
time walking back to my work. Just before 
reaching the place, the pain, which was of the 
usual rather severe kind, suddenly ceased. This 
would be about four minutes after being stung, 
and within one minute of applying the remedy, 
and I have known nothing whatever of the sting 
since. I may add that I have hitherto rather 
dreaded wasp and bee-stings, having on former 
occasions had severe pain for many hours, 
extending to the whole arm, and recurring on 
several succeeding evenings, even though I had 
immediately applied the usual remedy of harts¬ 
horn or some other preparation of ammonia.— 
G. J. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

10263, 10271, and 10275.— Improving gar¬ 
den soil. —The first thing to do with a stiff, 
clayey subsoil, if anything worth having is to be 
grown in the garden, is to get a good-sized heap 
of old sticks, bushes, dry weeds, or any dry 
wood, dig your subsoil out, and pile it about a 
foot thick on the wood, leaving a few holes for 
air, through which light the pile. Have more 
of your clay ready to pile on if the flame breaks 
through anywhere. When the pile falls in, put 
on more sticks and more clay, taking care to 
keep the heat in. You will get by this operation 
a friable, light soil, of the greatest value for 
digging in with your stiff soil. Be careful to 
bum the subsoil, and not the top-soil, if the top¬ 
soil is worth anything. The best manure you 
can possibly apply is rotted turf; this can gene¬ 
rally be bought, but is often expensive. Good 
fat horse manure, from a hotbed, is cheaper and 
very good. Spent hops from the brewers you 
will find both cheap and excellent for your pur¬ 
poses of lightening soil. Dig in soot a good 
deal; there is no better fertiliser. Road scrapings 
are good to make soil light, but inferior to hot¬ 
bed dung as a fertiliser. “Alpha” must burn 
at once. “ Novice ” may find that the ground is 
no worse for 1\ ing fallow for ayear or two. It will 
probably want breaking up and leaving in lumps 
and ridges through frost. Above all, determine 
not to be beaten by your soil, and you will not 
be.—R oger. 

10302.— Pansies. —“ Ariel’s ” experience is 
just the same as that of every other PaDsy grower. 
No matter how careful one is, green and red flies 
will occasionally make their appearance on 
Pansies, and when once they get established it 
is no easy matter to get rid of them. A solution 
of soft soap is much used, but I have found Fir- 
tree oil a more effectual cure, though a little more 
expensive. Apply it according to instructions 
marked on each bottle. The other evening I pnt 
about a wineglassful of the Fir-tree oil into a 
quart of water, and took a sponge and went over 
some Roses that were infested with green-fly, 
and next morning I could not see a living insect 
on any one of the plants so treated. The foliage 
was not a bit damaged. I apply it to Pansies in 
the same way and have never found it fail. The 
latter part of “ Ariel’s ” query it is impossible to 
answer until oue knows in what locality he 
resides.—W m. Cuthbertson. 

10372. — Bouvardia culture. — They 
succeed well in cold frames during the autumn 
and summer months. The lights should be re¬ 
moved constantly when the weather is fine. Cut- 
down plants started into growth about April or 
May are now finely in flower with us in the 
greenhouse. They do very well with a green¬ 
house temperatuie until the middle of October, 
after that they require a temperature of about 
55° at night. The potting materials ought to be 
good loam, leaf-mould, a little peat, and rotten 
manure. We bloom our smallest plants in 1-inch 
and 5*inoh pots; the large cut down plants in 8- 
inch. What they require during summer and 
autumn is plenty of light and air. They may 
even be grown out-of-doors, the pots plunged 
in the border, or the plants turned out of the 
pots and ulanied oqt in a sheltered place.— 
4. D. B, llBnjm j k niAnnn./'ii 


340 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sept. 20 , 1883 , 


10282. — Potting Fuchsias. — Fuchsias 
ought not to be potted too hard. A good 
compost for them is leaf-mould, rotten turf, and 
sand. Syringe them twice a week with clean 
water, and give them guano before coming into 
flower. I give the names of twelve varieties 
not to be often seen in these daj r s for green¬ 
house decoration or competition. Light singles : 
Queen, Miss Welsh, Beauty of the West, and 
Mrs. Marshall. Light doubles : Lucy Finnis and 
Mrs. H. Cannell. Bark singles : Mars, Conqueror, 
John Gibson, and Model. Bark doubles: 
Viceroy of Canada and Avalanche. As an 
amateur, I have got numerous prizes with the 
above plants.—J ohn Jardine, June,, Kilmar¬ 
nock , N.B. 

10293.— Cement for water cans.—I 

noticed four replies to the above, and excepting 
“ Roger's ” (solder) I have not found any of 
them so serviceable and durable as the plan I 
now adopt. When a can leaks, place it on the 
hob to get thoroughly dry and hot, put inside a 
piece of pitch about the size of an hen’s egg, and 
when melted turn the can about and let it flow 
over all the cracks. Two winters ago, I had a 
can split along the bottom through being left 
with some water in it outside during a hard 
frost; it was a very ragged hole. I adopted the 
above plan, and have used the can ever since.— 
H. Millen. 

-If the rust has gone to the extent of 

causing the cans to leak, there is nothing for it 
but soldering the holes, which may easily be done 
at home by means of the amateur soldering 
apparatus, to be had from most ironmongers at 
a trifling cost. Water-cans in constant use 
should have a coat of paint or boiled oil yearly, 
particularly on the inside. The latter is quicker 
in application and cheaper than paint, and an 
excellent preservative for all kinds of metal.— 
K., Hornsey. 

10308.— Green-fly on Cucumbers.—I 

should recommend “ T. W. B.” to syriDge the 
plants with Tobacco-water, or else one part 
ammoniacal liquor from the gasworks to five or 
more parts of water; or, in my opinion, better 
than either, choose a still evening, and let the 
plants be quite dry, stop up all holes in the 
house or frame, and put in an iron pan or hard- 
burnt garden pot, a few red-hot cinders that do 
not smoke, upon which put some Tobacco or 
Tobacco paper ; a cloud of smoke will soon arise. 
When the frame is filled with smoke, remove the 
pan, but be careful that the Tobacco does not 
break into a flame.—T. R. Butler, Tux ford. 

10263. — Improving a garden. — The 
builders have thrown the bad soil out of the 
foundations, and have covered over the good soil 
with it, and in this clay subsoil you are trying 
to grow flowers. The right thing to do would 
be to dig out a trench at one end of the garden, 
deep enough to include a foot of the good soil. 
Then trench the garden over, bringing up the 
foot of good soil, and bury the bad in the bot¬ 
tom, where it ought to be. It takes a long time 
to bring it into good condition in the way you 
suggest, although it can be done.—J. D. E. 

10296. — Florists’ flowers.- “ Constant 
Reader” will find that the plants usually desig¬ 
nated 11 florists’ flowers ” are the Hyacinth, 
Tulip, Auricula, Pink, Ranunculus, Carnation, 
Picotee, Dahlia, Hollyhock, and others of this 
type. They are all flowers that have been 
improved by the aid of the florist—that is, the 
wild plant originally has been improved through 
successive years, and numerous varieties have 
been produced with double or single flowers, 
which have been selected from seedlings.— 
J. D. E. 

10306.— Material for binding round 

pipes.—“ Rowley,” in arranging the pipes from 
boiler to conservatory, should have placed the 
conducting pipe (which I assume is three-fourths 
of an inch) in an earthenware pipe of 2 inches in 
diameter, as a covering of material that he re¬ 
fers to would not prevent the loss of heat which 
must ensue if placed in the ground without such 
external protection mentioned above, which, of 
course, would be of sufficient size to carry flow 
and return.—J. H. F. 

10314. — Manuring Araucarias. — The 

soil does want renewing. Dig a trench 2 feet 
deep and 2 feet wide round the trees. It must 
be at a sufficient distance not. to injure the roots. 
Fill the trench ufc with "hrod ^Snlm^soil, or 
what is better, rottVutliR^V aim&4mnve about 


6 inches of the soil from the surface all round 
the tree, and fill up with the same material. 
Over all place a good dressing of rotten manure. 
—J. D. E. 

10316.— Slugs and grubs.— Soot is the 
best to destroy slugs, as if dusted on the ground 
round most plants, they are benefited by it. 
Wireworms and grubs are not easily destroyed. 
Gaslime and salt will kill your plants, but they 
may both be applied to fallow ground in the 
winter, with good effects. Quicklime may do 
good, and will not injure plants. It may be 
applied to a vine border, but do not use gaslime 
or salt for that purpose.—J. D. E. 

10280.— Flowers to stand the winter. 
—Most hardy perennials and biennials, if planted 
shortly, will live through the winter and bloom 
early next season. Among these may be par¬ 
ticularly mentioned Hollyhocks, Foxgloves, 
Delphiniums, Pinks, Carnations, Pansies, Cam¬ 
panulas, Canterbury Bells, Sweet Williams, and 
many others. A few of doubtful hardiness, such 
as Pentstemons and some Phloxes, are better 
left till spring.—B. C. It. 

10279.— Sulphate of ammonia.—I have 
procured very good sulphate of ammonia from 
Townsen & Co., Altrincham, in 6d. and Is. 
packets. I use about 1 ounce to the gallon, and 
water with it after the buds show. I also use it 
for all soft-wooded plants in autumn and 
winter that are getting pot-bound, and it is 
wonderful the effect it has, ©specially on 
Geraniums and Begonias.— Prxebt Hulton, 
Burton. 

10836.— Outtinga of Tomatoes —This 
plant can be readily propagated in this way. 
The small top growths root readily in a hot-.bed 
or heated pit. It is best to put. each Gutting in 
the centre of a small pot in light soil. They will 
not do much good in an unheated greenhouse, 
and if you have not a heated house, it would be 
better to grow your plants from seeds sown early 
in the year.—J. D. E. 

10339.— Storing PotatoeB.— Yonrplan of 
storing seed Potatoes in shallow boxes is an 
exceedingly good one. If your shed keeps out 
the frost they may remain there during the 
winter. The shoots of Gooseberries that are not 
required may be cut off now or in any other 
month of the year.—J. D. E. 

10315.—Rhododendrons from seeds.— All of 
them are easily raised from seeds, sow them In pots as 
soon ns ripe in sandy pent; place the pots In n frame, 
and just keep the peat moist and shaded from hot sun¬ 
shine. The seeds of the hardy sorts will vegetate freely 
out-of-doors in a peat border.—J. D. E. 

10323.—Sowing Sweet Brier seeds —?ow them 
out-of-doors in the spring ; they will He in the ground 
twelve months and come up the following season. You 
can easily see when the hips are ripe. They may be laid 
up for some time, and then the seeds may be separated 
from the pulpy matter.—J. D. E. 

10308.—Green fly on Cucumbers.—Green-fly will 
get on anything they like, and it is not easy always to get 
off. In your case it is easy enough. You have merely to 
fumigate with Tobacco smoke. Be careful not to overdo it. 
Cucumbers will not stand it very strong. It is better to 
do it on three successive evenings.—J. D. E. 

10334.—Liquid manure for Parsnips —ThlB may 
be applied to a growing crop in the summer with advan¬ 
tage. and we would much prefer luing it that way to 
putting it on the ground in the winter. It would do 
good to a certain extent, but it saturates the ground and 
makes it unfit for working.—J. D. E. 

10302.—Insects on Pansies —If “ Ariel” will buy 
a small tin of Tobacco powder (to be had of any nursery¬ 
man), put some in a pepper-box, and dust the plants with 
it, it will most effectually rid them of red spider, and 
not injure the plants in the very least. I never plant out 
before beginning of March.—W. 6. 

10279.—Sulphate of ammonia.—I find in my reply 
to “W. 8.” last week, I made a great mistake in the 
quantity of sulphate of ammonia to be used to a gallon 
of water. It should be from quarter to half-ounce, not 
four to eight ounces.— A. P. R. 

10234 —Asters dying off —A kind of brown grub 
is usually the cause of this, though I have known it 
caused by over-watering. The manure water cannot 
have done them any harm. Asters sre like Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, you can hardly err in overfeeding them.— B. C. R. 

10348. — Wintering Geraniums; — You should 
merely cut off the roots that have grown through the 
pots, and when the plants are taken up, you must re¬ 
move a number of the old leaves. It is not a good plan 
to cut the plants back so late in the season — J. 1). E. 

10309. — Wintering Salvia patens. - This lias 
tuberous roots, and the best way is to dig them up after 
the first slight frost and pot them, keeping them in a 
greenhouse or somewhere out of the reach of froBt for 
the winter.-J. D. E. 

10363 — Sowing Brussels Sprouts. -Sow about 
the flret of March Why should the plants remain where 
sown ? It is best to plant thenj ont in rows 2 feet between 
the plants, and the same distance between the rows. 


19286.—Wintering Saleafy.—Take up the Salsafy 
about the end of tills month, put it in a dry' cellar or 
some dry place, and bury it in ashes. This ia my plan of 
keeping it, and I have always found it to answer.—J. S. 

10374.—Am pel opals Veltchi —This plant will grow 
well on a wall splashed with mortar, the rough surface 
would be well adapted for the tendrils to lay hold of.— 
J. D. E. 

10290.—Dwarf Beet for edgings.—Dell’s improved 
black leaved is dwarf, and good for that purpose. Nut 
ting’s dwarf red is also very good.—J. S., Bristol. 

10312.—Aeh trees In shrubbery.—It is so; the 
Ash will rob the shrubs of their nutriment, and cause 
them to grow badly.—J. D. E. 


Disease in Celery.—IT. H. C —The disease you 
speak of is the Celery grub. Pick of! the leaves most 
affected, and dust the other over with soot Each day 
look over the plants, and squeeze the leaves that contain 
a grab between the thumb and finger. 

Anchusa— J. J— From seed obtainable at any good 
seed-house, or plants can be had at any good hardy plant 
nurse^. 

Dianthus—From any of the London seed houses. 

B. Th. —The eggs were evidently not fertile.- J. J. 

—Certainly add as much good loam as you can get.- 

Mrs. B .—Cydonia japonica.- Mrs. Dundas. — The 

double Begonia sent is a very good one. We do not name 

varieties of florists’ flowers, such as Begonias, Ac. - 

Cottager. —Your Cauliflowers, Ac., were clubbed. It is 
caused by an insect. If you cut the root open and examine 
it you will find the insect. 

Veritas .—“ The London Market Gardens,” by C. W* 
Shaw. Published at 87, Southampton Street. Covent 

Garden. Price 2s. 6d.- H. Th.— Oliver’s Elementary 

Botany.-C. S. G — You did not state the size of your 

greroheaxse, but if the temperature is never to get below 
40° you will need a coil-boiler and hot-water pipes. 

Names of fruit— F. S.— Wellington, King Pippin, 

other cannot name.- F. J. Collier.— Cannot name from 

stogie specimens.-IF. Halsey .—King of the Pippins 

- F. R .—1, Relnette duCanada; 2, Scarlet Nonpariel; 

3, cannot name.- Ashtead, Surrey .—Local forts; can¬ 

not name with certainty, except No. 4. which ia .1 allien. 

- V. C.— Apple, Lord Suftield ; Pear, Gansel’s Ber- 

gauK>t. 

Names of plants .—M Robinson. —1, Sedum spec- 
tabile; 2, Campanula rotundifolia ; 3, C. pereicifolia ; 4, 

C. Hosti.- It. L. B. —1, Cotoneaster Shnonsi; 2, Thuja 

gigantea; 3, too small to name.- J. H. C.— A species 

of Verbascum or Celsia, cannot say which species.- 

M. L. Y— Hibiscus syriacus- Miss Clerk .—(Enothera 

Youngi.- C. M. F.— Polygonum cuspidatura.- H. Th. 

Santollnainenna.-P. W Barnes. -Anemone sylvestris. 

- E. H. IF. —Erica vnganB, Menzlesia polifolia- 

Blackpool.— Sedum spurium.- Southall. —RhuaCotinna. 

- Phis .— 1. Galega officinalis alba; 2, Alchemilla 

sericea ; 3, Rhus Cotinus.— A. L. S. —Nicotians afflnis. 
—R. C. D .—White Petunia: very good, it will do in a 

greenhouse.- Hortus. — l, Asplenum bulbiferum ; 2, 

Coccoloba platyclada; 3, Clerodendron fallax; 4, Dlpla- 
denia boliviensis. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents .—A ll comnuu&eae 
tions for insertion should oe clearly and concisely ipritten 
on one side of the paper only a nd addressed to the Editor. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
and address qf the sender is required , in addition to a ny 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the gucry 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece qf paper. Owing to the necessity q/ 
Gardening going to press a considei-ablc time before the 
day qf publication , if is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be tent to us again. 

Naming plants .—Four plants, fruits, or flowers only 
can be named at one time , and this only when good 
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name 
varieties qf florists' flowers , such as Fuchsias, Geraniums , 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
specialist who has the means qf comparison at hand. A ny 
communication respecting plants or flowers sent to name 
should always accompany the parcel. 

10S76.—Forming a villa farm.—I have just pur¬ 
chased four acres of land near Bagshot, which I hope to 
get possession of at Michaelmas, if I can succeed in com¬ 
pensating the tenant in lieu of notice. The land appears 
to be in good heart, and has carried an excellent crop of 
Wheat and Peas this year. My Intention is to make it 
into a villa farm. I have not purchased with the Inten¬ 
tion of getting a living out of it, but I Intend to try And 
shew that it will repay for any outlay in reason. I in- 
tend planting one acre as an orchard, with Apples, 
Currants, Gooseberries, Ac. I put the bush fruits for 
this reason. The Apples, Ac., I intend planting 27 feet 
apart, and as it will bo several years before they require 
anything like that Bpace, I propose planting bush fruits 
between at a distance of 8 feet. Then by the time the 
bushes are worn out, the trees will be in bearing, and 
they (the bushes) may be removed. Then I have thought 
of laying down one acre as a paddock, so that a cow may 
be kept. Keep one acre arable, for roots. Ac. The other 
acre would be absorbed with building, kitchen garden, 
and glass. I intend putting a good deal of glass, but 
not all at once, as putliug one at a time I shall gain ex¬ 
perience. Will some of your many correspondents help 
me by their advice ? Perhaps “ J. C., Byfleet,” will men¬ 
tion the kind of orchard trees best suited for the district, 
as Byfleet is similarly placed as regards soil and tempe¬ 
rature.— Bagshot. 

10377.—Roses In Greenhouse.—I have a green¬ 
house in which I «m going to plant Rome Bose trees. 
Can any correspondent give me any information as to the 
sort most likely to answer. Soil is light and sandy, and 
has been well dressed with stable manure. The house 



Sept. 29, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


341 


will loon be filled with bedding plants, and a little heat 
will be kept up during the winter. I have some Ulotre 
de Dijous planted round the sides of the house,but 1 wish 
to plant more down the middle, the house being large 
* ml span roofed. Would 8&frano on the Brier do 7 As 
they will be planted under the staging, they must have 
long stems. Any remarks also on the after treatment 
required will be useful.—A. J. R. 

10378.—Figs failing:. — I am aqrious to grow Figs, 
but have up to the present not succeeded in getting them 
to ripen. The trees grow well, and produce a plentiful 
crop of fruit, which swells until a little larger than a 
piaeon’s egg and then stops. The kind I grow is the 
Brown Turkey. I have one tree in a cool house and 
another in a wanner Melon house. I give a good supply 
of water and liquid manure, but the result in both cases 
ij the same. The trees are in large pots. I should be 
neatly obliged if someone would tell me where 1 am 
wrong.—F igs. 

10379. — Plants and foul air. — Can any reader 
inform me whether the presence of a golly grate inside a 
conservatory is likely to be the cause of failure in most 
of the plants ? I can trace no other sufficient cause, and 
the galley, being trapped, emits but a very slight drain 
smell, so that before 1 go to the expense of reconstruct¬ 
ing the drain I should be glad to know whether ordi¬ 
narily hardy flowers are so easily affected by drain gases. 
-0. W. 

10380.-Sea sand for planta—Good river sand not 
being obtainable where 1 live, except at considerable 
cost, I shall be glad if some reader experienced in such 
matters will kindly inform me whether Bea sand may be 
safelv used in the cultivation of stove and greenhouse 
plants, Ferns, Ac. If so, whether it should be washed 
before using. 1 can obtain any quantity of this sand, the 
beach being in front of my house. What is drift sand?— 
TYRO. 

10381.— Vinos In tubs.—Will a Black Hamburgh 
Vine grow and fruit well if planted in a tub or barrel 
inside a cool greenhouse 12 feet by 8 feet? My Idea is to 
plant a strong fruiting cane next month, and leave it 
undisturbed for a few years providing a good rich dress¬ 
ing annually, and water with weak manure water. Will 
this treatment be aatlsfactory ? No room for oubside 
border, and one Inside would have to be made underneath 
staging.—D. F. T. 

10382.— Flowering and evergreen shrubs — 
I am about to form a lawn and shiubbery, awd am 
desirous of devoting a good space to flowering shrubs. I 
should be glad to be advised of the names of some dozen 
or so of such shrubs,and where they can be had. Ip form¬ 
ing a carriage drive, I wish to plant trees and shrubs of 
an evergreen nature only, and should be glad of names 
of trees, Ac., recommended for this.—W. A. W. 

10383.— M&rechal Niel Rose not flowering.— 
I have a Marshal Niel Rose growing in my conservatory, 
which is only heated enough to keep out frost. The Rose 
has been planted about two years, with its roots outside 
the house. It has mad^some fine shoots, but has made 
no attempt to flower. Can any reader tell me the reason 
of this, and suggest a way by which I can get it to bloom ? 
—E. H. 

10384 —Pear tree not fruiting.—In our garden 
we have a Pear tree which has been neglected for some 
years. Last March we had a gardener in to attend to It, 
and he cut all the top wood off for about 8 feet, as he 
said this only bore straggling fruit. It bore no fruit that 
year, but this year it has not been pruned, and has boms 
about a dozen small Pears. The tree is of a large size, 
and is very thick in branches.—G. W. M. 

10386.— Mulberry tree not bearing.—How can I 
make a Mulberry tree bear ? We dug a trench round It 
about 4 feet from the stem, and filled it up with rotten 
dung. It has some very miserable fruit on it now that 
■hrivels before it ripens. Our garden is on the top of 
a steep hill; it is lined with tall Poplars about 30 feet 
distant on the south side. Any Instructions will be thank¬ 
fully received.—A Lover of Fruit. 

10388.—Wintering Maiden-hair Ferns.—Will 
any reader give me a little advice as to keeping through 
the winter a Maiden hair Fern ? I have a greenhouse 
facing the south unheated. Also how to treat a Spirsea 
that did very well last spring. It has been in the same 
pot since then, and looks now as if it were starting into 
growth again. Should it be repotted into some good 
■oil ?—G. W. M. 

10387.— Agapanthus not blooming.— Out of five 
large plants of Agapanthus, one only has bloomed this 
summer. The pots stand in pans of water ; I have had 
the roots divided every two or three years. In the winter 
they are housed In a cold pit. Until the last two or three 
years each plant has bloomed freely. What treatment 
should be adopted to ensure regular blooming ?—F. 8. C. 

10388.—Slugs in Celery.—What can I do to destroy 
sings in my Celery 7 I find these last few days that the 
stalks are quite eaten through with small slug3. I have 
been told to try salt and water. If right, please say how 
much salt to the gallon of water, or Is there any thing 
else I can use ? I have several rows of very fine Celery, 
and am afraid it will be all spoiled.—W. E. 

10889.—Sowing Sweet Peas.—What is the latest 
time in the spring for sowing Sweet Peas, Candytufts, 
Clarkias, Ac. ? 1 notice successional sowing is constantly 
advocated, but I do not succeed with them after the end 
of May. They germinate freely, but refuse to grow, and 
become stunted; this has occurred two or three times.— 
J. J. 

10390.— Bark on Strawberry beds.— Should the 
tanner’s bark with which I have mulched my Strawberry 
bed this season be removed or allowed to remain ? At 
the bottom it appears already to be nearly rotten, and I 
have thought that if it remains by next spring it may all 
have rotted, and thna have served at once as manure 
and as a protection to the roots from frost.—E. H. H. 

10391.—Apples flailing off.—Can any kind reader 
tell me the reason why our Apples drop off when they 
attain the si ze of a Walnut? The tree was well pruned 
hst year, and had about two pails of night soil dug in 
round the roots. It hod a good show of fruit, but now 
they have nearly all fallen. It is surrounded by other 
tall trees. —G. 


10392. Watercress beda — Could any reader 
instruct me how to make Watercress beds, und when 
is the proper time ? I have a piece of ground about 
14 yards wi.'e and 100 yards long with a spring of water 
at the end running steadily down a saudy clay bottom.— 
L. S. D. 

10393.— Lilacs not flowering.—I have several fine 
Lilac bushes in my garden which have shown but few 
blossoms for two years past. They produce a great number 
of young shoots or suckers. Do these weaken the tree, 
anil should they be removed or should some of the older 
wood be cut down?—!. H. W. 

loapi —Sun dial —In answer to query 10216, Number 
238, A. Deck ” says a brass one (sun dial) about 10 inches 
would cost about 35s. to 4's. Will “A. Deck ” kindly tell 
me where such a brass sundial can be bought in London, 
or in any other town? My dial space is 14J Inches by 
13J inches.—E. C B. 

10396.— Climbers for covering a house.— My 
house stands facing the east, the back west, the side 
south-west. Being anxious to plant some evergreen 
creepers, will anyone tell me what sorts will flower and 
do well in the various aspects?—HUNTS. 

18396. — Flowers in the midland counties.— 
In what month do the following plants flower in a warm 
aspect in the midland counties : Primula intermedia, 
P. margtnata, Hemerocallis flava, H. fulva, H. japonica, 
Gentian gilida, Aster alpinus ?— Miss Clerk.. 

10397.—Names of Vines.—I shall be glad of the 
names of some good flavoured,handsome Grapes that will 
flourish under the same treatment as the Black Ham¬ 
burgh. I want green as well as black kinds, and am par¬ 
ticularly anxious to have regular bearers.—S tokeslky. 

10398.—Melons for house —I shall be glad of ad¬ 
vice as to the best Melons to be grown in a Melon-house. 
Is not the weight of the hanging Melon apt to injure 
the stalk and prevent development, and what is the eest 
way to obviate this difficulty ?—Stokeslby. 

10399.—How to store Carrots to keep twelve 
months.—I have two or three tons of Carrots to store 
which are wanted to be kept for twelve months. Will 
some reader kindly say the best way to keep them ?— 
Snowden. 

10400.—Bush and climbing Rosea.—Will some 
correspondent kindly give the names of twelve bush and 
six climbing Roses, various colours, and which flower at 
different periods, that would grow in a small garden 
(rather confined) north-east of London ?—J. J. 

10401.—Clematis Jackmanni.—I am told that 
ClemflMs Jackmanni should be cut down every autumn, 
or the flowers wftl deteriorate. Is this the case, and if 
■o. how are the Clematis managed that cover the entire 
side of a house?— F. M. R. 

1D404.-WVitaring plants in cold frames.—I 
have a large qnantlty of Fuchsias and Geraniums in the 
garden ; can they be kept during the winter in a cold 
frfune, or how cm I best keep them right for next year ? 
—J. Edwajim. 

10408. —Sweet-scented Box trees.—Will some¬ 
one tell me the name of the Box trees that give off a 
sweet perfume in the morning? Will they do well on a 
chktky soU?-H. L. D. 

10404.—Earwigs In house and garden.—Can 
anyone tell me the best means of ridding my garden and 
house of earwigs.? They swarm at night on my Beans and 
flowers, and are a source of great annoyance.— C. K. C. 

10406.—Wallflowers.—What shonld I do with Wall¬ 
flowers? Should they be cut down for the winter, or 
sunk deeper in the earth? At present they look straggling. 
—C. E. C. 

10406- Hydrangea paniculate.— I shall be glad 
to know what is the proper treatment for Hydrangea 
panicu&ta grandiflora, as to situation, soil, climate, Ac. 
Is it quite hardy?—M rs. B. 

10407.— Making Asparagus beds.—Wanted, 
directions for making a new Asparagus bed, or remaking 
an old one. Mine used to be good, but now scarcely bears 
at all.—H. M. W. 

10408.—Campanula fra gills.—How should plants 
of this Campanula be treated after flowering ? Should the 
long, pendant stems be cut back or not, and, if so, to what 
extent ?—B. 

10409.—Crotons*—Do these require any special treat¬ 
ment-summer or winter? Mine is named Queen 
Victoria. Any hints upon management would be appre- 
ciated.—J. T. F. 

10410.—Vines in pota—Can I grow a small Vine in 
a pot in an unhcated greenhouse, and will it bear fruit 
the second year? When is the best time to obtain it ? 
Any information will oblige.—G. W. M. 

10411.—Rooting bulbs.—Is it practicable to plant 
Snowdrops, Crocuses. Hyacinths, and Tulips 9 inches to 
12 inches deep in flower border? Will they not lift 
themselves to their natural depth ?— Amateur. 

10412.—Plants in cold frame.—Will some one 
oblige me with a list of cuttings that can be grown m a 
frame for the flower borders next year ?— Amateur. 

10413.—Storing Potatoes. — Will someone give 
nformation os to the best method of storing Potatoes 
or the winter?—F. U. 

10414.—Insects on Mushrooms.—How can I 
keep slugs, snails, woodlice, Ac., from my Mushrooms ? 
Scarcely one escapes.—G. H. 

10415. — Moving Yew trees. — Can Yew trees 
about twelve years old and about 10 feet high he moved 
with safety ?—Lapis. 

10410.—Fir trees.—What is the best time of year for 
planting young Fir trees? Also, what kind of shrubs or 
trees will grow underneath the old Firs?—A. M. 

10417.— Christmas Roses—Will some reader 
kindly inform me the best way of growing Christmas 
Roses out-of-doors, also what soil they require?—E. H. 

10418.—Plants in cellar.—What planta can I store 
for the winter in a warm, dry cellar, and how should 
they be treated ?—E. S. T. 


Google 


Cheap offer for cash with order. 

For Autumn Planting. 

•REDDING VIOLAS AND ?ANSIES.-100, in 

D 12 finest sorts, 15a ; 50, in 10 sorts, 10 j. ; 25, iu 6 s wbJ, 6s.; 
12, in 4 sorts, 4s (Show and fancy Pansies, including the 
choicest for exhibition, 4i., 6s., to 9 j. per dozen. Pinks, free 
(lowering and fragrant, for cutting, 6s. to 9s. per dozen, 40 j. 
to 50s. per 100; ditto, florists’ varieties for competition, 6s to 
9s per i *zen. Glove Carnations, in 6 finest varieties, 6 j. to 
9s. per dozen, 40a. per 100; all free by post, descriptive 
catalogues free—DICKSONS & CO., 1, Waterloo Place, 
Edinburgh Established 177 0_ 

40 BEAUTIFUL HYACINTHS. — Selected 
J & bulb? in varied colours, embracing pure white, creamy 
white, blush, crimson, azure blue, deep blue andpiuk, for 3s. 
These are tine for beds, lz extra fine, all the above colours 
specially chosen for pots or glasses, for 4s. 12 superb Hya¬ 
cinths in 12 choice named sorts for exhibition, Ac., for 5s. e l. 
A collection of 25 named Hyacinths for 10a., a most com¬ 
plete collection. All the above are carriage free to auj house 
i n th e kingdom.—RYDER A SON, Sale, Manchester. 

OR BRILLIANT TULIPS in live fine named 
Borts for flower borders, price 2s„ embracing all the 
best colours: 25 double Tulips, named, for 2?.; 25 Tulips, 
extra selected for forcing, price 2d.: 190 Tulips, single and 
double, for borders, named, for 7s. 6d. All carriage free to 
any address.—RYDER A SON, Sale. Manchester. 

ALD ENGLISH BULBS.—12 double white 

U Narcissus for 9d.; 12 Narcissus poetlcus for 6d.; 12 single 
Daffodil (Lent Lily), the popular art flower, for la.; 12 
superb double Daffodils, large, for Is.; 100 double Snow¬ 
drops for 2s. 6d.; 12 English Iris, choice mixed, for la. ; 12 
Harebells (Scilla) for Is. 3d. ; 12 single Anemones, 6d.; 12 
double Anemones, 9d.; 100 choice mixed Crocus for Is. 6d.; 
50 named Crocus for pots, in five sorts, for Is. 9d. All above 
are capital healthy bulbs, and are sent carriage free.— 

R YDER A 8QN, S ale. Manc hester ._ 

rjABBAGE PLANTS.—Fine August sown, for 

LI early spring use and for a succession. 120 plants for Is , 
600 for 4s., 1200 for 7s. 6d., carriage paid, cash with order. 
For names, see next advertisement.— EDWARD LEIGH, 
Dunsfold, Godaimin g._ 

HABBAGE PLANTS.— Fine autumn eown, 
\J choicest English, Scotch, and Continental varieties, viz., 
Early Rainham, Battersea, Wheeler’s Imperial. York, Vanack, 
Shillings Queen, Daniels' Defiance, Enfield Market, 
Oattell's Reliance, 8t. John's Day, Erfurt Early, May Point, 
and Filder, at 3s. per 1000 of twelve hundred. Well packed 
in any quantity on rail for cash with order.—EDWARD 
LEIGH, Wrotham Farm, Dunsfold, Godaiming. 


TTERBS.— Nice planta, Lavender, Rosemary, 
■LL Balm, Wormwood, Horehound, Hyssop, Purslane, 
Witloof (for winter salads), Garden Sorrel, ChiTea, Tansy, 
Fennel, Basil, Tarragon, Burnet, Is. 3d. dozen, 8s. 100, car- 
riage paid.— EDWARD LEIGH, Dunsfold, Godaiming. 

fj ARTER’S FERN - LEAVED PARSLEY, 

U Broad-leaved Sage, German Winter Thyme, winter 
Savory, and Pot Marjoram, Is. dozen, 5e. 100, carriage paid. 
—E DWARD LEIGH, Dunsfold, Godaiming ._ 

n LOBE ARTICHOKES. - Fine plants for 

VT early fruiting next season, 3s. 6d. dozen, three dozen 9b , 
100 for 20 b., carriage paid.—EDWARD LEIGH, Dunsfold, 
Qodalming. _ 

PANSY SEKD, carefully saved; fancy Belgian 
X and English show, Is. per pkt., free.—WM. SANDERS, 
The Gardens, Leek, Staffordshire. _ 

PANSY CUTTINGS 1 PANSY CUTTINGS 1- 

X From our splendid stock, new or old, 2a. doz., purchaser’s 
own selection. Special quotations to trade.—W m. SANDERS, 
T he Gardens, Leek, Staffordshire. _ 

POLYANTHUS I POLYANTHUS I! - Plant 

X now for early spring blooming, 12 distinct varieties, strong 
clumps free te rail for 4s.—WM. SANDERS, The Gardens, 
Leek, Staffordshire. _ 

PARCELS POST DELIVERY.—10 splendid 
X winter-blooming Geraniums, well rooted, all colours, in¬ 
cluding fine planta of 9r. Orton, splendid crimson, firet-ol&aa 
certificate Royal Horticultural Society, August 28 ; grandest 
Geranium yet seen, 3a. Parcels Post, safely packed free.— 
GEO. BO YES & GO. 


Q TRIKE CUTTINGS NOW for strong plants 

to winter in cold houses or frames, dibble 3 inches apart in 
road grit. Geraniums, splendid outtingB, all colour*— Henry 
Jacoby, Mra. Ncwdigate, Titania, Sybil Holden. Mrs. Starry. 
Lizzie Brooks, Aurora, Gullion mon Gellion, 8amuel Piira- 
boII, Mrs. Skipworth; one of each, post free. Is.—GEO 
BOYE8 and CO., Nurserymen, Aylesto ne Park , Leicester. 
PELARGONIUMS.—Strong cuttings, good cut- 

X tings.—Grand Duohess (new), Gloire de Lille, Minnie, 
Duchess of Edinburgh, Duke of Albany, Mabel, Delicata. 
Bertie Boyes, Digby Grand, Duchess of Bedford; one of 
each post free. Is.—GEO. BOYES and GO., Nurserymen, 
Aylestone Park, Leicester. __ 

QPRING FLOWERS.—25 Wallflowers (mixed), 
Q 12 Canterbury Bells, 4 Delphiniums, the lot, Is. 6d., free. 
-SAMUEL G RE EN, Romily, near atookport._[7196 

PARCELS POST.—Pansies, now best time to 

X plant; 100 stout well-rooted plants iu ten choice separata 
varieties, carefully packed, free, for 2s. 6d.—J. GALVIN. 
Mount Talbot Nurseries, Roscommon. _,_[7197 


HHRYSANTHEMUM SEGETUM, most 

U splendid of all golden^ Marguerites.—Fresh seed, with 

™ [7179 


splendid _ 

instructions, for 7 stamps 
Appleshaw, Andover. 


FIRST PRIZE BELGIAN PANSIES—One 

X dozen superb varieties, free, for 3a., strong plants.—R. 
MANN, Bhadwell, Leeds. [7180 


T ILIUM CAND1DUM and White Roman 
XJ Hyacinths, 3a. doz., £1 100. Poets Lily (Narcissus 
pocticus), single, 3s. 100; double, 3s. 6<L 100.—ST AUG & CO , 
Jackson Street, Hulme. _ 


ANEMONE JAPONICA ALBA HONORINE 

xA JOBERT, 3 for Is 6d. ; 4s. 0d. per doz. ; 25s. per 100, 
splendid plants.—STAGG k GO., Jackson Street, Hulme. 


FINE OPPORTUNITY.—Pearson s new Gera- 
X niums of 1882, 2s.6d.; 12 van of 1881, Is. 6d_; Lemoine's of 
1882, 12 vara., 2e. 6<L; of 1881, Is. 6d.; double, of 1882 , 12 vara., 
2a. 6d.; of 1881. Is. 6d.; choice new double Ivy-leaf, 12 vars„ 
2s.; superb selection. 100 vara , 10s. 6d ; new Fuchsias, 50 lu 
25 vara., 2s. 6d. All strong cuttings, correct names, well 
rooted. Fuchsias, 2s. 6d.; Geraniums, 3a, to 4s. per r 
f re0i _W, DOBBIE, 62, Preston Street, Faversham. 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Sept. 29, 1883. 


W. K. CROWE 

BEOS to caH attention to his large stock of the following 
in small or large pot*. by uoefc or rail (ace Gardening 
Illustrated, Sept. 22,1883). 

DOUBLE AND SINGLE GERANIUM8 for pot culture, 
foliage do . double and single Fuchsias. Abutilons, Salvias, 
tuberous and foliage B^gcroias, Azaleas, Camellias 4c. 


STOVE AND GREENHOUSE CLIMBERS.—A very 
large stock of all the best, including Stcphanotis floribunda, 
in 3 inch pots, or by post, Is.; larger. Is. 6d., 2a. 6d., and 
33. 6d. each; twelve choicest climbers, such aB Stephanotis, 
Uiisua discolor, Oobieas, Hoyas, OlerodtudrouB, Plumbagos, 
Allamandas, Tacsonias, 4c., very fine plants in 5-inch pots, 
15s ; twelve smaller, 7s. 6d. 

WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS —Twelve best sorts 
for suoce3Monal effect, flowering size in 5-inch pots, such as 
Azalea indicn, Azalea mollis, Bouvardias, Cyclamen, Tree 
Carnations, kc., for 15s. 

FOLIAGE PLANTS FOR WINTER DECORATION. - 
Twelve bust varieties for immediate effect, such as Palms, 
Ferns, Grevilka robusta. Ficus elastics, Pandanus, Crotons, 
kc., good plants in 4-inch and 5 inch pots for 15s. 

20,000 Palms. 20,000 

DALMS are now Bold in thousands by the 
A London florists as small plants for vases for decora¬ 
tion. They are certain to maintain their popularity, as they 
last a long time in the impure atmosphere of rooms. 12 
distinct varieties, including Arecas. Chamaerops, Coryphas. 
Eutexpes, Latanias, Phoenix. Beaforthias, etc , by post or in 
pots. Cp. Six larger in 4-inch pots. 6*. Six very fine in 5-inch 
pots, 12s Nothing is so useful or lasts so long for decorating 
during winter 

Choice and Rare Palms. 

*"PHE following are amongst the most elegant in 

A cultivation : Cocos Weddelliaua, 1 b. 6d. ; Areca Versohaf- 
feiti, 1 b. ; Geonoma gracilis. Ip. Gd. ; Kentia RaJmoreana, 
Is. 6d. ; K. Forsttriaua, Is. 6d. ; Geonoma Schottiana, Is.; or 
the six for 7s. 

10,000 Ferns I Ferns 1! Ferns 111 10,000 

''TWELVE fine Stove and Greenhouse Ferns, 
A including Maiden-hairs, Pteris, Lomarias, Cyrtomiums, 
Doodiaa, Ac., good plants in pots or by post, 4s.; larger, in 
4-in. and 5-in. pots, 9 b. and 12s. dozen. 

Tree or winter-flowering Carnations. 
rpWELVE in four of the best sorts for cutting, 
A La Belle, white; A Alegatiere, scarlet; Miss Jolitfe, 
pink: Vulcan, mottled red. by post 4s. per dozen, 28s. per 


Tuberoses 

■M*OTHING can be better ior button-holes than 

Al thefe deliciously-Bcented flowers; good tubers in 3-inch 
pots in growth, 7s. 6d. dozen; fine plants in 5- Inch pots for 
early flowering, 12s. per dozen. 

Flowering and foliage plants for winter 
decoration Great autumn clearance sale. 
rPO make room for outdoor stock, my collections 

A (of which I make a speciality) of plants at one, two. and 
three guineas will, for the next month, be more liberal than 
usual The plant can either be supplied in 5-incth or small pots, 
and will consist of Abutilons, Salvias, Cyclamens, Begonias, 
Tree Carnations, Azaleas, various climbers, Bouvardias, 
Palms, Fern<» kc. Purchasers' wishes will be carefully Btudied, 
Descriptive Catalogue free on application. 

W. M. CROWE, The Boleyn Nursery, TJpton, Essex. 

NOTICE TO THE TRADE. 

■w. M. CROWE 

Is prepared to supply the trade on liberal terms for cash. 
JAit of Palms. Ferns, Begonias , <$c. t on 
application. 

Boleyn Nursery, Upton, Essex. 


“DLANT NOW for spring flowering.—Gold- 
A laced Polyanthus. 1 b. per doz.; Brompton Stocks, 6d. I 
per dot.: double German Wallflowers, 6*. per doz. : Har¬ 
binger Wallflowers, 36 for Is., free.—ROBERT CROSS, 
Hereford.__ 

A URICULA SEEDLINGS, best border va¬ 
rieties.—Saxifraga Wallacei, grand for borders and 
rockeries ; DaisieB-Rob Roy. Bride. London White, and 
striped, immense bloom ; Strawberries—McMahon, Stirling 
Castle. 9<L do*.; 5s. lo6, free.-F. NEWBKBY, Raglan 
House, Wolv erhampton. __ 

ert CHOICE PLANTS, 2a. 6i. (postal order), 

Ov/ carefully packed in box, carriage paid—12 Cannell's 
superb Sweet Williams. 12 Blood-red Wallflowers, 10 double 
German Wallflowers. 10 Carnations and Piooteea, 8 Scillas.— 
JOHN R. FLOWER, Retford 

REACH-LEAVED BELLFLOWER (Cam- 

A pauula persicifolia alba fl-pl.), flowers most purely white 
and Camellia-shaped, quite hardy,2s.6d a dozeu: Schizostylis 
coccinea, autumn flowering bulba, like scarlet Gladiolus, two 
dozen for 2s. Both these should be planted now. All pojt 
froa—F. BRIGHT, Hendon, Middlesex. 

PLIANTHU3, the Glory Pea of New Zealand, 
\J Is 3d. each; two, 2a.; Tacaonia Van Volxemi, the 
scarlet Passion Flower, la each ; two. Is. 6d.; Diplacus cali- 
foraicus, Is. eaoh ; two, Is 6d.; Plumbago capensis, Is. each ; 
two. Is 6d.; or one each of the four, 3s. 6d., all strong plants, 
post free.—F. BRIGHT, Hendon. Middlesex. _ 

HYACINTHS, TULIPS, CROCUS, LILIES^ 

JA 4c.—C G. VAN TUBERGEN, JuNi. Haarlem. Holland, 
Wholesale Catalogue now ready, and may be had free on 
application to MEsans R 8ILBERRAD 4 SON, 25, Savage 
Gardens, Crutched Friars London, E C. 

QHOW and FANCY PANSY SEED.—Finest 

O Scotch varieties, enp 1883, 6d., Is., and 2 b. 6d. per pkt. 
Antirrhinum cuttings, finest Btriped prize varitiea, I2j>»ir8, 

1st 2d. ; 25 pa rs, 2 b. 2d., free for cash.—GEORGE WHITE, 
Carriage Iiill Nuraery, Paisley. 

WANTED, a few strong plants of FILMY 
VV FERNS. Statu price and partiuul»rs — Box 12, 
WELEELKR S Advertising Office, 4, Pall Mail, Manc hester. 

CROCUS, blue, white, Btri;>ed, and yellow, 
\J Much, la Si per 100 ; mixed, all colour,, la 0,1 per 100, 
12a per 10OJ; Snow.lrops, tingle and double, e.ch, .1 Mr*r 
100. 21a per 1000: Tulipa mixed. 4e. 6i per 100.-.TAMES 
VEITCU 4 SONS, Royal IJxotic Nursery, C helsea, 8 W. 

Digitized by GOOgle 


‘LOADSTONE’ COLLECTION 

OF 

HARDY ANNUALS 

FOR .A. XT TXT MUST SOWING 

When sown in autumn hardy annuals bloom much earlier 
and finer than when sown in the ordinary way in spring. 

ALL POST FREE. 

LOADSTONE’S azure blue CORNFLOWER, for early 
spring blooming, fow at once, good packet. Is. Id., the Ger¬ 
man national emblem. 

LOADSTONE'S special strain INDIAN PINK, wonder¬ 
fully handsome, large packet Is. Id., with sample bloom. 
3ow open ground at one. 

FOXGLOVES, pure white, Loadstone's owu special strain, 
sow now open ground. Packet free, seed, Is. Id. Fine 
spotted Foxgloves, Is. Id. 

LOADSTONE S FLORAL BUDGET. Nine showy hardy 
annuals, for very early spring blooming. Bow at onee, open 
ground. Free, 2s. 9d. 

LOADSTONE'S collections of nine showy HARDY PE¬ 
RENNIALS, to sow open ground at once Free, 2s. 9d. 

LOADSTONE'S CANTERBURY BELLS, rose, blue, 
white, very flno varieties, one packet each, free. Is. 3d., sow 
now. also new cup and saucer varieties, mixed, Is. 3d. 

LOADSTONE'S SNAPDRAGONS, beautifully splashed 
and striped in thirty different shades. Seed saved this 
strain, Is. 3a. packet, tree ; sow now. 

LOADSTONES special strain striped FRENCH MARI¬ 
GOLD. Large packet fresh harvested seed Is. Id., with 
sample bloom, extremely handsome. 

LOADSTONE'S SCABIOUS, best dwarf German, larae 
packet seed, with sample bloom, free, Is. 3d. ; sow immedi¬ 
ately op^n ground for spring blooming. 

LOADSTONE'S MIGNONETTE, for winter blooming, 
sow at once In pots or boxes, packets of new Golden Queen 
or Miles's Spiral, Is. 3d. each; giant flowering Mignonette, 
large packet, Is., fresh harvested seed. 

WINTER BLOOMING WALLFrX)WKRS, Loadstone's 
now noted blood red and dwarf golden strain, sow at once 
open ground. Packets, Is. 6d„ free. 

“ LOADSTONE'S " collection nine choice biennials, free, 
2s. 9J. 

J. LOADSTONE, 

_LLANEL LY, CAR MARTHENSHIRE._ 

Plants & Bulbs for the Million! 

NOTE THE PR ICES! 

All free at pricet quoted for cash vAth order, well rooted, and 
warranted to arrive tap and fresh to any part oj the United 
Kinqdom. 

Qflfl IMPORTED DUTCH ROOTS and 200 

UUvJ plants for 21s., half Us., quarter 6s , consisting of 
Hyacinths, Tulips. Crocus. Snowdrops, Narcissus, Anemones, 
Ranunculus, Aconites. Iberia, Wallflowers, kc. Satisfaction 
gnarnntopd -,t. KTT.VF.3TER. Idle. Bradford. _ 

i '0.Lli J 5>, 100 in twenty named varieties 6s. 6d., 
100 mixed 4\ f.d , 12 in 12 named varieties Is. 3d., 12 
mixed 9d HYACINTHS, 12 exhibition varieties, mimed. 
5a. 6d. or 6s . mixed 2s. 6d to 3a 6d per doz. OROCUh. 100 
2s. SNOWDROPS. 100 2s. 6d. Catalogues free.—J. SYLVES¬ 
TER. Idle. Bradford. 

lno BULBS AND PLANTS for 3sTviz.THya- 
-LVJL/ cinths. Tulips, Crocus, Narcissus, Snowdrops, Wall¬ 
flowers Anemones. Ranunculus, 4c. Satisfaction guaiau- 
| teed.-J. SYLVESTER, Idle, Bradford 

ONLY 2*. 6d, Free.—Three each of following 
—White Roman Hyacinth, blue ditto, double Roman 
Narcissus, Begonia semperflorens. Will all flower at Christ- 


TZELWAY 4 SON, Lmgport, Somerset, offer 

AA. Gladioli spikes. Dahlias, single and double; Pyre- 
thrums, single and double ; Phloxes and Tea Roses, Calceo¬ 
lariajmdCineraria8eeACRtalogUM_gratis_ard_poiifcfrpe. 

D UTCH BULBS.—Cheapest in the trade.—Do 

not purchase till you have seen my catalogue, post free 
on application.-HUGHES, Marketplace, Abingdon. 
QINGLK DAFFODIL, or Lent Liiy, per 100, 
KJ 3s. 6d.; double yellow Daffodil, per 100, 3s. Gd. ; poeticus 
or Pheasant's-eye Narcissus, per 100. 3s 6d ; poeticus fl.-pl, 
or doub'e white sweet-scented Gardenia Narcissus, per 100, 
6s.—JAMES VE1TCH 4 SONS, Royal Exotic NurBery 

Chelsea, 8. W. __ 

TJYAC1NTHS, the most precious of all spring 
•U- flowers ; carefully pickod bulbs, much superior to those 
usually sold at auctions; the best selections for pots or 
glasses, with cultural directions, 6s. 9s., and 12a. per dozen, 
free ; any quantity sent.—STUART 4 MEIN, Kelso, Scot¬ 
land._________ 

rpULIPS, of immense value for spring deco- 
JL ration either under glass or in beds in the flower garden 
the best selections for pots, Is. 6d and 2s. 6d. per dozen ; for 
beds, to bloom simultaneously and give striking contrast of 
colours, 68,9s , and 12s._per 1«0; any quantity sent; free by 
post wi th directions —STUART 4 MEIN, Kelfo, Scotland. 

pROCUS, the most showy of all the early spring 
vJ flower*, blooming in February and March ; the best 
se'ections for bedding or planting in broad band* or clumps; 
yellow, white, blue, lilac, Btriped, 4c., 2s. 6<L to 4b. per 100. 
fr«*e ; any quantity sent; list and directions —STUART k 
MEIN, Kelso, Sco tland. _ 

AMATEURS’^COLLECTIONS OF DUTCH 

aa. BULBS, containing a liberal assortment of the best and 
most distinct kinds for growing in pots, glasses, window 
boxes, vases, and outdoors in beds or borders, £«., 7s. 64, and 
12s. 6d., free. Beware of the cheap stuff sold at auctions.— 
STUART 4 MEIN. Kelso, S cotland/ _ 

COLLECTIONS OF DUTCH BULBS.—These 

v are got up on a liberal scale, and Contain carefully 
picked, heavy bulbs of the best and most distinct kinds, suit¬ 
able for large gardens for growing as above; 21s., 42s, 63*, 
and 84s. and upwards, carriage free.—STUART 4 MEIN, 
Kelso. Scotland. 



TTYACINTHS, named, 12, 4s 6d.J 100, 30s. ; plants correctly named, fr 
■Li- Anemones. 2s. 6d.; Ranunculus. 2a.; Winter Aconites, Weston-in-Goraano. BristoU 


COLLECTION OF DUTCH BULBS con- 

Ju, tains a well selected variety of the moat useful kinds 
for 'a small garden or greenhouse : they are all of eaev 
culture, and will give an excellent di-play without much 
trouble in their management; d.livered free to any address. 
Buy early and secure the best bulbs.—STUART 4 MEIN, 
Kelso, Scotland. 


F ERNS AND BEGUN 1A&.—Four Maiden-hair 
Ferns, two varieties ; two variegated Ferns and six 
Begoniaa. with beautifully marked leaves, 2s. 6d., free.— 
MAJLRI8 k CO., WestOD-in-Gordano. Bristol , _ 

ANE FARLEYENSE, the most beautiful Fern 

U that growR ; two climfciDg Begonia fuchpioid.es, coming 
into flower; two variegated Lycopodiums; two scarlet 
Tropseolums that will flower all the winter. The collection 
free for 2s. 6d. — MAIRIS 4 CO., Weston-in-Gordano, 
Bristol. _ 

ipHE BEAUTIFUL MAIDEN HAIR FERNS, 

J- Adiantum cardiocbltonum, Adiantum concinnum latum, 
two winter-flowering Begonias, two scarlet Epiphyllums. and 
two greenhouse climbers, beautifully variegated ; the eight 
plants correctly named, free 2s. 6d. — MAIR1S k CO^ 


2s ; double Daffodils. 2s. 6d ; NarciFsus poeticu", 3s., all per 
100. Whi e Roman Hyacinths. 2s 6d. and 3s doz ; double 
Roman Narciftsus. 2s and ?s. 6d. ner dozen ; both to flower at 
Christmas - J. 8YLVE8TER, Idle. Bradford.. 

nNi.V — Kix each of followms:: Double 

Roman Narcissus, white Roman Hyacinths, blue do.. 
Begonia semperflorens, Due Van Thol Tulips, Crocus, Snow- 
dvop* ;>11 to flower at Christmas. _ _ 

DEOONIA SEMPERFLO HENS, rose, and 

SJ graaditiora. white will bloom all winter, 6. 2s.; 12.3s. 6d.; 
Auriculas, Aquilegias 2s doz ; Carnations, Plcotees Pinks, 
PrimroFe. Poljanthus, Py»ethrum, Potentill*, 1 b. doz 6s 6d. 
100 ; Wallflowers, Sweet Williams 3s 6d. 100 (see Garden¬ 
ing, Sept. 15, for varieties).—J. SYLVESTER, Idle, Brad¬ 
ford. 

A/4 COLLECTION OF BULBS, free by 

Uo# UU» parcels nost, contains 12 Hyacinths, double 
and single, 25 Tulips. 60 Crocus, 6 Narcissus. 6 Anemones, 
and 25 Snowdrops for 5s. 6d.; half quantity, 3s.; double 
quantity, 10s., carriage free, all good bulbs. The best collec¬ 
tion yet offered.— O. SHILLING, Seedsman, Winchfleld, 
Hants._ 

■RULBS ! BULBS ! ! BULBS !! J - Twelve 

-D named Hyacinths, 3a 9iL ; twelve mixed Hyacinths, 
2a. 6d.; Tulips, in six varieties. 5«. 6d. per 100: Crocus. 2s 4d. 
100; Anemones, very fine, Is. doz.—C. SHILLING, Bulb 
Merchant, Winchfleld, Hants. [7191 

QTRAWBERRY.—Strong plants President and 
O Vicomtesse Hericart deThury. 2s. 6d. 100. free parcels 
post.—C BHILLlNQ, Nurseries, Winch field, Hants. 


•DOSES ON OWN ROOTS. - Wonderfully 

-LVj cheap: f) om 10 inches to 15 Inches high ; strong plants, 
will soon bloom; Red Gloire do Dijon (the new Rose). 
Homere, Isabella Spruut, and Gloire de Dijon : tbe four for 
2 h bd., free; price per dozen, 7a., free. —MAIBIS k CO., 
Weston-in-Gordano, Bristol. 

T3ED GLOIRE DE DIJON aud five beautiful 

XX) perpetual Roses, all on own roots ; the s'x strong trees 
free for 2a. 64.—MAIRIS 4 CO.. Weston-in-Gordano. Bristol. 

1 nnn ®ULBS in lO varieties, 21s., post free.— 

1UUU Dutch Bulbs just imported, at Dutch prices. 
Named Crocus, Is. per 100; earned Tulips (double and single). 
4s. per 100; named Hyacinths. 3a. per dor.: Liliums, 6d. 
each ; Rpinea, 3d. each ; Dielytra. 6d. eaoh ; Narcissus, fine, 
Id. each. Many other kinds in stock cheap.—W. CULLING- 

FQRD, Forest Gate, E. _ 

Dutch Bulbs at Dutch Prices. 

■REST Crocus bulbs, Is. per 100 ; 200 post free, 
D 2s. 6d.; best double or single Tulips, 4s ICO; best double 
or single Hyacinths, 3s. doz.; beat Iris, 50 for Is ; Snow¬ 
drops. 2a. 100; 1000 bulbs free for 21s., all nnmed bulbs, in 10 
sorts -W. OULUNGFORD, Forest Gate, E. _ 

Three Plants by Parcels Post Is. extra. 

AZALEAS, 18 inches high and 18 inches 
aj. diameter, well Bet with buds, 2s. each; Camellias, nice 
bushy plants, well set with buds, 2a. each ; Hoyas, 9d. each, 
3 feet high ; Ficus elastica, Is. 6d each. 18 inches high ; 
Palms, fine, Is. 61 each.-W. CULLINGFORD. Forest 
Gate. E. __ 


l()f) STRONG PLANTS, consisting of Wall- p-p. YARDS RABBIT NET. post free, $J. 6d. 

±\J\J flower,, Forget-me-nota. Caiiterbnr, Bells, Silene, QU 12 Rabbit Ferreting Nets, post free. Be. 6d. 


Pansies. Evening Primroses, and Sweet Williams, kc., cat- 
rlage free, 2*. 9u : specially reoommended.—C. SHILLING, 
Nurseries, Winchfleld. _ 

TTOOPER’S GARDENING _ buiDE^ “ An 

■LL unfailing souroe of Information and delight.” Number¬ 
less other readers testify to its being the most useful, enter¬ 
taining, and cheapest work in our language. 2s. 6<L, post free 
Is, lid.—HOOPER 4 00., Covent Garden and all booksellers. 


20 yards by 38 inches wide Tiffany Shading, post free, 5s. 
Tanned Netting, 2 yards wide, at lid. yard ; 600 yards, 2Wa. 

Bat Folding Net. post free, 5s. 

_ W CULLINGFORD Forest Gate, E. _ 

TJTILD DUCKS.—Live Wild Docks for Sale. 

* * pure bred-and pinioned, ’8s. a coupK or three (mall *rd 
and two ducksl.fhi' 1C*«. WL^Mxa. L HJBBERT. Ohalfuut 
Lodge, Gerrards CxOBs, Bucks. 


































GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. V. 


OCTOBER 6, 1883. 


No. 239. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

{Continued, from, page 337.) 

The Plant Houses. 

Is villa gardens of the first class, where glass¬ 
houses of various kinds are required for plant 
culture, there will be a saving of space and 
expense (and they may be arranged in a manner 
better adapted to meet their several require¬ 
ments), if, when selecting the site, every possible 
or likely future contingency is taken into con¬ 
sideration. There 'are many gardens where 
convenience and also general effect have been 
sacrificed through not taking a comprehensive 
view of probable wants at the first outset. This 
may have been the fault of incompetent 
advisers, but every man who builds a green¬ 
house, or any other glass structure, ought to 
ask himself this question—Will the site I have 
chosen bear expansion, and can I conveniently 
add to it if I wish ? Nine out of every ten men 
that commence plant growing in earnest, as 
years roll on, find themselves extending their 
glass erections. It is true that of late years the 
reduction of the mania for bedding out brilliant 
exotics has relieved the pressure upon the glass 
department; still, in the main, the glass erec¬ 
tions in every garden do increase in numbers, 
hut even if they should not, it is as well to have 
plenty of room; if it should not be required for 
building upon it can be put to some other pro¬ 
fitable use. In selecting the site for a block of 
houses, there should be an outfall for drainage, 
and, if possible, some shelter from north and east 
winds. For plant growing, span-roofed houses 
mining north and south are best, and if several 
are required, place them on a sort of platform in 
parallel lines. There is often much time lost in 
moving plants from one house to another, and in 
attending to the necessary work in connection 
therewith, when some distance intervenes 
between the different houses. The cost of heating, 
too, is generally less when erected in a compact 
group or block than if scattered. The best 
materials and workmanship will in the long run 
be the cheapest, and the ventilation should be as 
perfect and as quickly applied as machinery 
and skill can make it. In the old days that I 
remember so well, a man had to go from light to 
to light, carrying a long stick with him, as he 
might have to give the light a good shake with it 
before it would move. Often the stick would 
slip if the operator was clumsy, and then a hole 
appeared in the glass, and the glazier had to be 
called in. Now with all modem erections, a 
whole house can be ventilated by just moving a 
lever. 

The Annual Expense 
of repairs, keeping up the glasshouses and villa 
garden of the first class, is considerable, and any 
system of construction which tends to reduce 
expenditure on this item without any sacrifice of 
efficiency must ultimately win its way. Several 
systems for the attainment of this object have 
been introduced of late years, whereby the roofsof 
glasshouses may be so constructed as to place 
all the perishable materials under the cover of 
the glass, nothing but the glass and the metal 
bars on which it rests being exposed to the 
weather, and putty—that greatest of all 
nuisances in hothouse building—is entirely 
absent. I feel convinced that in the future 
horticultural buildings can and will be con¬ 
structed on some improved system, whereby the 
enormous expenses of painting and repairs may 
be much reduced. Busy, active minds are giving 
close attention to this matter, and sooner or 
later the thing will be worked out and brought 
to a satisfactory issue. Several systems em¬ 
bodying these ideas to some extent are in opera¬ 
tion pretty well in every country, and anyone 
desirous of testing or getting further informa¬ 
tion on the subject will meet with every facility 
for doing so. No one, I think, can look upon the 
present system of fixing the glass in position by 
so inelastic a substance and one so liable to 
crack and peel off as putty, as perfect. It did 
better when the timbers of the roof were heavy, 
and the rabbets on which the small squares of 
glass rested were wide ; but that era has been 
left behind, and puttyln,connection with the 

Digitized by GOOgle 


roofs of hothouses ought to disappear, as it is 
not adapted for the larger squares of glass and 
lighter timbers in use at the present day. Some¬ 
thing more elastic and more lasting is required. 
After the putty has cracked (and the action of 
the wind in a gale may, in fact does, cause putty 
to crack), if it does not peel off directly, it is 
worse than useless in keeping out water, as it 
holds it back and, in a measure, conducts it 
inside the house instead of faciliating its escape. 

The Conservatory. 

In gardens of the first or Becond class the 
conservatory is generally a special feature near 
the house, occasionally being joined to it or 
connected with it by a glass-covered colonnade. 
Usually its architectural features are in charac¬ 
ter and in unison with the mansion, as there 
should be harmony in such matters. Conserva¬ 
tories of moderate size should have the roof 
formed with a single span, and the proportions 
of the building should harmonise— i.e., its height, 
length, and width should bear some proportion 
to each other. A flat, dumpy roof on a tall 
building, when placed in a prominent position, 
is always an eyesore. If the conservatory be of 
considerable size, then the single span will 
hardly do. It will be better to break it up into 
several spans on the ridge and furrow principle. 
The arrangement of the interior is a matter of 
some moment, and will require careful considera¬ 
tion in connection with the other items of gar¬ 
den arrangement. For instance, there are many 
conservatories in the country which are ex¬ 
ceedingly difficult and expensive to manage and 
keep in order, for they are dark, dismal places 
in which flowering plants in winter will not 
live. Palms and Tree Ferns are the only things 
which really succeed in such places. Very few 
conservatories are well adapted for the growth 
of flowering plants, and in arranging the interior 
the following questions should be considered: 
What means have we for keeping up a regular 
supply of flowering plants at all seasons, or, at 
least, at the season when the family most re¬ 
quire them. It should be borne in mind that 
to build a conservatory to be kept gay at all 
seasons will necessitate a number of houses for 
growing plants in some other position in order 
to have a constant supply coming on. Such a 
house can be made most interesting, but the ex¬ 
penses will be considerable. If a number of 
glasshouses exist elsewhere for the growth of 
plants for the conservatory, the permanent 
features of the latter house may be confined to 
the creepers on the roof and on the back wall, 
and the backgrounds or centres, which might be 
formed of large specimen Camellias, or Palms, or 
Tree Ferns, or some plants which will develop 
into grand specimens. I was in a conservatory 
a short time ago, where the scarlet Indian Rho¬ 
dodendron arboreum formed prominent objects. 
A few such plants form centres, round which 
the brilliant flowers may be grouped very effec¬ 
tively. Dracaena indivisa and Grevillea robusta 
are excellent plants to form centres in a conser¬ 
vatory border. The Grevillea requires a little 
pruning to keep it in bounds. If there are but 
few houses to grow flowers to keep up the show 
in the conservatory, the space for their occupa¬ 
tion must be curtailed likewise by increasing 
the permanent features of the house—i.e., by 
planting up more of the space. In the arrange¬ 
ment of the interior of the conservatory, the 
purpose for which the house is required must 
carry weight. If for a promenade, then good 
broad paths will be necessary. 

In some cases there may only be the borders 
for creepers, and perhaps a few specimens 
which may stand isolated, some pains being 
taken with their training and management to 
have them as perfect as possible. I remember 
seeing a feature of this kind in Devonshire 
worked out in the following manner: An avenue 
of Camellias—very fine specimens — had been 
formed by building circular brick spaces, edged 
with terra cotta, on each side of the back path, 
and, the house being a large one, the effect was 
good. The visitor walking along the back path 
seemed to be in a dense but orderly arranged 
grove or avenue of Camellias, whilst from the 
front of the house the Camellias formed a 


delightful dark background for the flowering 
plants to rest against. When a good deal of the 
space must be reserved for a promenade, move- 
able or ornamental stands may be used with 
advantage for the flowering plants, and if they 
are of various heights, more variety will be 
obtained. Thus, a group of Fuchsias or 
Pelargoniums, or Ferns or Palms, will at 
one time form prominent objects, at others 
mixtures may be used. In short, theie 
is no limit to the modes in which plants may be 
grouped and arranged. A thoughtful person 
may constantly find new sources of pleasure in 
the variations which may be worked out. Many 
a time I have gone into a conservatory feeling 
weary and dissatisfied with its arrangement. I 
have thrown off my coat, made a fresh cast of 
the materials, formed new groups and outlines, 
and lo ! a transformation has occurred, which 
has put myself and all concerned into good 
humour again. Cowper must have experienced 
some such feelings when he wrote : 

Prospects however lovely may be seen, 

Till halt their beauties fade. 

In a large house the creepers will form one of 
the most ornamental and important features. 
The Passion Flowers alone, with their allied group, 
the Tacsonias, with their dangling wreaths of 
starry blossoms, will be a strong point where 
there is room for them to extend. The Lapage- 
rias alba and rubra planted in a bed of rough 
fibry peat, Fuchsias, Scarlet Pelargoniums, the 
old Oak leaf and other scented Geraniums, 
Tea Roses, and many other plants which are 
suitable either to train up the rafters, or for 
clothing walls or pillars, will also brighten up 
any structure wherein they may be employed. 
If there should be a dark corner anywhere, 
build up a rockery, and plant it with Ferns, 
selecting a spreading kind, like Woodwardia 
radicans, for the highest peak. The variegated 
Reed, Arnndo Donax variegata, when planted 
in the border of the conservatory, has 
a very striking effect. I have seen it make 
growths from 12 to 15 feet high in one season. 
This plant is rather too tender for the open air, 
except in the most sheltered places, and even 
there it frequently loses its freshness before the 
summer is over, but in a cool conservatory, well 
supplied with water, it is quite at home. The 
best 

Materials fob Paths 

are Minton tiles; they arc always clean, and 
do not generate dust like York stones do. The 
soil for the borders should be chiefly loam and 
peat. All bits of Fern root or stick which, in 
its decay, may generate fungus, should be taken 
away when the soil is being prepared. The soil 
as it is placed in position should be made firm 
to prevent too much settling after the plants are 
in. Some settlement there will be, no matter 
what is done, but if valuable plants such as 
specimen Camellias or choice Rhododendrons 
are planted in loose soil, there is a danger of their 
getting too low down in the border, and if the 
collar of the plant is covered too much the plants 
will turn yellow and die. I have no doubt that 
a good deal of mischief is done in this way in 
the planting of new conservatories. Whenever 
a specimen of considerable size in a conservatory 
border looks sickly, examine the stem and see 
how deep the plant is in the ground; if the 
collar is buried lifting alone can save its life. 
If the garden is small, that is comparatively, 
and there are no relays of plants coming on in 
other houses for the conservatory; if the latter 
has in a great measure to be self supporting, and 
if, in addition, there are no staff of gardeners to 
attend to the wants of the plants, then I think 
it will be much the best way to plant most of 
the plants out in the borders, only leaving spots 
here and there for groups of Geraniums in sum¬ 
mer, and for bulbs. Cinerarias, and Primulas in 
winter and spring. If good loam can be obtained, 
then borders should be made up chiefly with it. 
Lighter, richer compost will produce too rapid 
growth. Short-jointed wood is better for flowering 
than more rapid elongation, and under such 
conditions the plants do not got out of hand so 
soon, which is an important requisite in a house 
of the character under consideration. 


lNA-< 





344 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 6, 1883. 


Baskets and Vases 

should always form a part of the furniture of a 
conservatory, as they fit in appropriately in any 
style of house, and are easily adapted to all 
kinds of management. The plain circular baskets, 
with no ornamental work projecting from sides 
or bottom, are the easiest to fill, and look best 
when the plants have filled them, which they 
will do quickly, so as to completely hide all the 
wirework. The size of the baskets should bear 
some proportion to the size of the house, and 
although of plain outline, yet they should be 
strongly made, as thin wire soon rusts through 
when exposed to almost constant damp. The 
plants for the baskets should be grown on in 
pots till they are strong and well established, 
and then they will feel no check, but will com¬ 
mence work at once. Ferns make excellent 
basket plants, especially those of drooping habit 
or which have creeping roots. A classified list 
will be given at the end of this article, and 
therefore I need not refer to it more fully 
now further than to say that in some cases it is 
an advantage to use a contrasting plant for the 
base of the basket. To make my meaning more 
plain, I will give an illustration. The Polypodium 
aureum forms a striking plant in a basket— 
wide arching plants of a deep green, which keep 
their colour well in a greenhouse temperature, 
and may, if required, be taken into the house 
and hung up in the hall for several days at a 
time without suffering any injury. Asplenium 
flaccidum is equally effective, though distinct in 
character, but the effect in both cases is much 
enhanced if the base of the basket is covered 
with some creeping growth which will hide up 
Moss and wires completely. There are many 
plants adapted for this, but my present purpose 
will be served if I only mention one, which is the 
hardy Sedum carneum variegatum. It is a very 
rapid grower, and will require pegging round the 
ball at starting, and it may then be permitted 
to grow as it pleases, hanging about grace¬ 
fully in all directions. In filling a basket, I 
always provide a lot of this Sedum and other 
similar things in small pots. I first line the 
bottom of the basket with Moss, and work in 
the little Sedums as the work proceeds at 
intervals up the sides. There is no occasion to 
lace any in the bottom, as after the plants 
egin to grow they may be pegged to cover the 
bottom. Vases of different heights may often 
be usefully employed in an architectural con¬ 
servatory to fill up centres, or to place in con¬ 
spicuous positions where there is space for one 
handsome specimen plant, but it is quite 
possible to overdo it, as I think vases should be 
used sparingly. I have sometimes seen Wire 
arches happily employed in conservatories to 
span paths, which when covered with Heliotropes, 
Habrothamnus fasciculatus, or Tea Boses, have 
a very pretty effect. 

The Heating and Ventilating 
of the conservatory are very important matters; 
a good deal of the success of the house—viewed 
as a show house—depends upon these matters 
being rightly carried out. The winter night 
temperature, if the house is to be a home for 
forced flowers, with an occasional consignment 
on party nights from the stove, should not fall 
much below 60°, or say 15° as the minimum 
The day temperature should be 10° or so higher, 
or a little more with sunshine. Where forced 
flowers are not introduced, and no special effort 
is made to keep the house gay in winter, a much 
lower temperature will suffice. As regards ven¬ 
tilation, no hard or fast rule shculd be followed. 
Ventilate freely when the outside atmosphere is 
mild and calm, but keep out all cold winds. In 
the matter of both heating and ventilating, a 
good deal must be left to the cultivator's intelli¬ 
gence. Speaking generally, a great deal more 
coal and coke is burned than is necessary, and 
tne atmosphere of the conservatory might, with 
advantage, be changed more frequently. A very 
small aperture in two or three pi a res will set up 
a circulation of air early in the morning, and 
carry off all impurities which have accumulated 
during the night. I am not going to recommend 
any special boiler, beyond saying that for large 
places I am in favour of the improved tubular 
forms; but almost any kind of boiler will do 
good work if properly set and looked after, 
especially in keeping the flues clean. 

List of Plants fob Consebvatoby. 

I am thinking now more especially of the 
permanent plants, i.tvsuch as are planted in 

Digitized by GOOgle 


the borders to form the main features; those for 
forcing and other purposes will be referred to 
under their proper headings. In some large gar¬ 
dens I know Camellias occupy a house to them¬ 
selves, and as they are hardy in our climate and 
only require protection for the flowers, they are 
well adapted for the unheated house, which with 
Indian Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Ac., may be 
made very gay. Oranges, again, occasionally 
have a house to themselves, and, in fact, to do 
them well it is desirable that they should have 
a separate house, though at the same time they 
will grow in a mixed collection. The best lot 
of home-grown Lemons I ever saw were planted 
out in a Muscat vinery and trained on the back 
wall. In the same way Oranges have done well 
on the back walls of the Peach-house, and I was 
in a conservatory a short time since where a 
large part of the back wall was oovered with 
Orange trees trained in close to the wall, and they 
were covered with fruit approaching maturity. 
All the hybrid Abutilons are pretty, and succeed 
well planted out in the conservatory border, grow¬ 
ing and flowering all the winter. A selection of 
Acacias will be very suitable for a large house. I 
name half a dozen: Grandis, longifolia magni- 
fica,jplatyptera, verticillata, armata, and Drum- 
mondi. Araucaria Bidwilli, Arundo Donax varie¬ 
gata, Bambusa viridi-glaucescens, Brugmansia 
suaveolens, B. sanguines, Camellias in variety, 
Casuarina sumatrana. Citrus in variety. Cytisns 
racemosus is a very useful plant turned out in 
the border. I have had it as a standard in the 
border, have trained it on walls, arches, and 
pillars, and it is nearly always in flower. Daphne 
indica, alba, and others, succeed with less trouble 
planted out than in pots ; Dracaena. indivisa, 
Eu taxi a floribunda. Ficus australis, Fuchsias in 
great variety, Grevillea robusta, Habrotham¬ 
nus fasciculatus and others, Luculia gratissima, 
Magnolia fuscata, Musa Ensete, Myrtles, 
Nerium (Oleander) various, Plumbago capensis, 
Polygala Dalmasiana, Sparmannia africana. 
There are numbers of Palms which will thrive 
in a greenhouse temperature, such as Seaforthia 
elegans, Latania borbonica, Corypha australis, 
Eentia australis, Pritchardia filamentosa, Areca 
rubra, Ac. The Australian Tree Ferns are also 
grand plants for a large conservatory. Rhododen¬ 
drons in variety. The Indian species are worth 
culture under glass, and a few choice hybrids 
which have sprung from them are good also for 
the same purpose. Veronica Andersoni isnotoften 
planted out in the conservatory, but it is well 
worth a place, as it flowers so freely, and makes 
a very handsome specimen too, with a little 
pinching when young. I have had large cone- 
shaped plants 7 feet high. This list might be 
very much extended, but I am aiming at selec¬ 
tions only. 

Conservatory Climbers. 

Acacia Riceana, Clematis indivisa, C. Miss 
Martin, Clianthus magnificus, Habrothamnus 
elegans, Jasminum grandifiorum, Lapageria 
alba, L. rubra, Mandevilla suaveolens, Passiflora 
Count Nesselrode, P. Belotti, P. Empress 
Eugtmie, Tacsonia exoniensis. Fuchsias have a 
good effect dangling from the roof. The 
climbing Tropseolums of the Lobbianum section 
are also most useful, especially in winter and 
spring, when the Passion Flowers are cut back 
and there is not much blossom. 

Plants for Baskets. 

Ivy-leaf Pelargoniums (various), Petunias in 
variety. Fuchsias ditto, Tropseolum Fireball 
and others. Convolvulus mauritanicus and 
others, Cissus antarcticus, Clematis (various), 
Cobara scandens variegata, Coprosma Baue- 
riana variegata, Epiphyllum truncatum and 
others. The Epiphyllums are striking plants 
for basket work, and the light which on 
such a position falls on them ripeDS their growth, 
and induces them to flower very freely. After 
the growth is completed in spring, less water 
should be given, not, of course, to dry them off, 
but to rest them a little. Isolepis gracilis, 
Saxifraga sarmentosa, Sedum carneum variega¬ 
tum, Selaginella denticulata, and others; Trades- 
cantia zebrina, T. vittata. The last half dozen 
plants will be found useful to cover the basket 
beneath a taller, larger growing subject. Nearly 
all Ferns may be grown in baskets. I once saw 
a very interesting collection, including a great 
many of the Maidenhairs or Adiantums grown 
in baskets and hung against the face of the back 
wall of a large dark conservatory, instead of 
covering it with climbers in the usual way. 


The effect was novel and pleasing, but involved 
a good deal of work. Though all Ferns may be 
grown in baskets, I name a few of creeping 
habits which are specially adapted for such a 
mode of culture. Adiantum cuneatum, A. 
concinnum, A. farleyense, Asplenium flaccidum, 
Cyrtomium falcatum, Davallia canariensis, D. 
Novas-Zelandiai, D. tenuifolia, Goniophlebium 
appendiculatum, G. sepultum, Hypolepis repens, 
Lygodium scandens, Microlepia platyphylla, 
Nephrolepis davallioides fnreans, N. exaltata, 
Polypodium aureum, Platycerium alcicorne, 
Pteris scaberula, Woodwardia radicans cristate. 

Plants fob Furnishing Walls. 

All the Abutilons, if cut back occasionally, 
will do against a wall, and will flower well in 
such a position, home of the Acacias, each as 
grandis and juniperina, are capital subjects. 
Camellias, Oranges, and Myrtles are unsur¬ 
passed for effectiveness. Cassia corymbosa, 
Clianthus puniceus, Cytisus Everestianus, 
Fuchsias, Pelargoniums of all kinds will success¬ 
fully cover a wall of any height. Habrothamnus 
elegans, Hibbertia dentata, Jasminum de 
Poiteau, Linum trigynum, Lonicera fragrans, 
Luculia gratissima, Magnolia fuscata, Plum¬ 
bago capensis, Rhodochiton volubile, Rhyn- 
chospermum jasminoides, Sollya linearis, and 
Heliotropes. E. Hobday. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


A GOOD BORDER PLANT. 

(VENIDIDM CALENDULACEUM.) 

Now that graceful single flowered Composites 
have become so popular, we would direct atten¬ 
tion to this beautiful plant, long ago introduced 
to our gardens from the Cape of Good Hope, but 
which, like a good many other plants, has until 
lately been almost wholly confined to botanical 
collections. It is, however, impossible to say 
too much in its praise, combining as it does 
brilliancy of colour with elegance of form. It is not 
sufficiently hardy to stand the full vigour of our 



Venidium calendulaceum. Showing habit of growth. 

climate, but it flourishes admirably treated as 
an ordinary half-hardy annual. There is, however, 
no doubt that it is a true perennial if wintered 
under glass. It is a free growing plant, some 2 feet 
in height and 3 feet in breath, but always growing 
in a compact, rounded mass, covered for several 
months consecutively with blaek-eyed golden 
blossoms, resembling those of the common pot 
Marigold (Calendula), though much brighter and 
more refined. It is not a difficult plant to culti¬ 
vate ; seed of it should be sown in a slightly 
heated frame in March, and the seedlings should 
be planted out in the beginning of May, in light 
friable soil on a warm exposure, a position in 
which the plants will continue to flower till 
October. There is considerable diversity in its 
seedlings both as regards habit and the size, shape, 
and shading of its blossoms, and careful selection 
in seed saving is needful in order to secure the 
best forms. It is admirably adapted for cutting 
from, as the flowers open and shut as regularly 
as when on the plant. It is well worth room 
under glass, as by this means its flowering 
season may be considerable prolonged, but its 
proper place is out-of-doors in summer. Seeds 
of it may be easily procured. 


Oct. 6, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


345 


VIOLAS FOR BEDDING. 

Fob seven summers I have done the usual bed- 
ding-out business at the end of May and begin¬ 
ning of June, my plants consisting of Geraniums, 
Fuchsias, Verbenas, Heliotropes, Iresenes, Cal¬ 
ceolarias, Petunias, Lantanas, and the leading 
annuals grown by everybody. I have, however, 
done less and less of this style of bedding year 
by year, purchasing every year a few hardy plants 
to mix in my borders, owing to the gres t trouble 
and expense in the production of about three 
months’ bloom, and that very uncertain. I live in 
the north of Lancashire, on a cold, damp, clay 
subsoil, subject to frosts till the beginning of 
June. My experience tells me I can have a 
greater amount of pleasure at a less cost by par¬ 
tially giving up my old friends named above, 
and substituting hardy herbaceous border plants. 
I have this year made a beginning, and am so 
pleased with the change that, like little “Oliver," 
my cry is “ more, more. ” 

I commenced with Violas Pilrig Park, Vestal 
(white), Tory (blue), Waverley (blue), Sovereign. 
Cloth of Gold, Golden Plover (yellow), Pilrig 
Park being the best white, Tory the best blue, 
and Golden Plover the best yellow, but all are 
good and will give satisfaction to anyone who 
grows them. 1 have omitted Viola Admiration, 
a purple or plum color, a splendid bloomer, 
flowers all but perfect, good substance, and great 
beauty. My house faces the north, and stands 
about 8 yards from the road; consequently the 
beds have very little sun, and portions of them 
none at all. Right and left of the walk leading 
to the front door is a circular bed 12 feet in 
diameter, which, by the way, never before grew 
anything satisfactorily. These I planted one 
with Tory (blue), the other with Sovereign 
(yellow). They commenced to bloom at the end 
of April, and are in full bloom this moment 
(September 20), and doubtless will be till the 
frost comes. Every passer-by must and does 
still stop to admire the charms of these 
beds. The only trouble they have given was to 
pick off the dead flowers, to prevent their run¬ 
ning to seed, and so weaken their blooming 
powers. The plants soon covered the ground, 
being planted 4 inches apart, and thus pre¬ 
vented the growth of weeds. Violas Pilrig Park, 
Vestal, Admiration, and others I planted in lines 
next the tiles along the borders, and this affords 
a sight not easily forgotten. From these rows 
of Violas our people have gathered blooms by 
the basketful fur friends and house decoration ; 
I have also taken about a thousand cuttings 
from these rows, all of which are rooted. I took 
the first cuttings the last week in July; these I 
inserted in a shaded strip of ground in the open. 
They are now nice plants, and I doubt not they 
will stand the winter without any protection. 
The cuttings taken later I put into small boxes 
(such as can be picked up at the grocer's), so 
that they can be lifted into a frame or some out¬ 
building in the most severe weather. Side- 
shoots, however small, and tops are the best 
cuttings. They want cutting under a joint, and 
the lower leaves dressing off; then insert them 
in the boxes, which should have two or three 
holes in the bottom covered with broken pot or 
oyster-shells, filled with ordinary garden soil 
two parts and one part sharp sand. The boxes 
may then be placed on the garden walk or any 
open situation; they will require a dash of water 
occasionally when the weather is dry. 

Another year, if all be well, I intend to plant 
my front circular beds with Violas of mixed 
colours in some such order as the following: 
Commence at the top of the circle with about 
three rounds of Pilrig Park (whitej; second 
band or zone, Admiration (purple); third, Sove¬ 
reign (yellow) ; fourth, Tory or Waverley (blue). 
If these colours could be better harmonised, I 
shall be glad of any suggestions.— Rosedale. 


COMMELINA CCELESTIS. 

10373.—This is a liliaceous plant very nearly 
related to Tradescantia virginica, which, under 
the name of Spiderwort, is an old and well- 
known inhabitant of our gardens. Both plants 
have so much the same habit of growth and 
flowering that C. ccelestis might not unreasonably 
be called the sky-blue Spiderwort ; but 
botanically speaking, it has been separated from 
the Tradescantias and placed with a few others 
in a small family, which has been named after 
the celebrated Dutch botanists, John ant Gaspar 

Uo gl<r 


Commelyn. As long ago as 1732 it is mentioned 
and figured by Dillenius as growing in the 
collection of Dr. Sherrard at Eltham ; but it is 
not very often met with in modern gardens. It 
is a native of mountainous districts in Mexico, 
and of the Himalayas, where it is found at an 
elevation of 2300 feet, and is therefore reckoned 
a hardy perennial; but in my experience, even 
in a dry soil, it has not proved so undoubtedly 
hardy as it is supposed to be. In some soils., 
however, it may perhaps be left to take care of 
itself with safety, but in that case, it is likely to 
spring so late as to retard inconveniently the 
time of blooming. No plants are more easily 
raised from seed, and, if sown early under glass, 
will bloom the first year, but it is a good plan to 
treat them as biennials, sowing thinly in April 
or May in deep seed-pans to allow room for the 
bundles of tuberous roots, growing them on out- 
of-doors, and taking care, after the herbaceous 
stems die down, to keep the pans safe from 
frost. They may then be planted out early in 
the following spring, and will give a long 
succession of bloom. The old French name of 
Eph6m6rine is equally applicable to C. ccelestis 
as to the better known Virginian Spiderwort. 
Redoute, who gives a charming illustration of both 
plants in “ Les Liliac£es,” says of the latter: 


will be sure to notice the curious bending back 
of the flower-stalk as soon as the flower fades. 

_ K. L. D. 

PERMANENT BEDS OF BULBS. 

Thk season of bulb planting has again come 
round, and one would think from the prominent 
position they occupy in catalogues, auction sales, 
&c., the whole country would soon be a reflex 
of the Haarlem bulb gardens, yet it is no ex¬ 
aggeration to say that bulbs are nearly unknown 
in many gardens, or, at least, the hardy section 
that live from year to year, and increase rapidly 
—if they get the chance. Unfortunately, the 
system of lifting and replanting everything in 
gardens now-a-days does not give bulbs a chance 
to perfect even one season s growth; conse¬ 
quently there is no help for it, as long as this 
system prevails, but to treat bulbs as annuals, 
of which they are figuratively the most short¬ 
lived examples we have. The demand always 
appears to centre on the tender pot kinds of 
Hyacinths, double Tulips, &c., and these in their 
season make a brilliant, but short-lived display 
under glass, and in some few cases out-of-doors 
where spring gardening in the true beddiDg-out 
or massing style is carried out, but this is too 
costly a luxury for the many, and is really the 
most costly branch of flower gar- 



Flowers of Venldium calendulaceura. 


dening, considering the time it 
lasts, of anything now practised 
in English gardens. By com¬ 
parison, even the brief display of 
our summer bedders is a length¬ 
ened one. 

Much as I admire bulbs in 
connection with other spring 
flowers, I cannot say that I find 
them so satisfactory by them¬ 
selves, for their very habit cf 
growth seems to suggest that 
they should spring from a carpet, 
or groundwork of some dwarf, 
spreading foliage, to compensate 
for their somewhat meagre leaf¬ 
age, and in beds of Myosotis, 
Silenes, &c., where their blossoms 
rest, as it were, on their dwarfer 
companions, the effect is very 
pleasing when the bulbs are well 
arranged ; but here the ever 
restless desire for novelty and 
change steps in before the 
blooms are half faded or the 
growth of bulbs half completed, 
and they are ruthlessly torn up 
to make room for the next lot. 
No wonder that only the earliest 
flowering section is sought after, 
for there is no spot in com¬ 
paratively large gardens safe 
from the fork or spade. Yet there 
are other ways in which many 
beautiful bulbs may be not only 


“ This plant blooms during as many days as its 
umbels bear flowers, for we generally find one, 
and but rarely two, flowers of each umbel ex¬ 
panded at once. These flowers open about ten 
o’clock in the momiDg, and are really ephemeral, 
for they close between two and three o’clock in 
the afternoon, and never re-open ”—a description 
which entirely suits Commelina ccelestis. 
Curiously enough, this is the only reference to 
the fleeting nature of the flowers which I have 
been able to find, though from a gardening point 
of view it is most important. Commelina 
ccelestis should be planted in a bold mass to be 
seen to any advantage, as the individual plant is 
somewhat insignificant; but to come unex¬ 
pectedly upon a colony of it, each with its blue 
eyes open, in the freshness of the early morning 
before the sun has had time to drink up all the 
dew drops, is a lovely sight; but it is not a showy 
plant, and must consequently be placed judi¬ 
ciously, or it will perhaps cause disappointment. 
There is another species, C. tuberosa, so closely 
allied to C. ccelestis as to be almost identical, 
and it is not unlikely that it is sometimes raised 
and mistaken for the sky-blue Spiderwort. It is 
quite possible that they are merely forms of the 
rame, but for garden purposes the latter is by 
far the finer plant. All the hardy species of this 
small genus appear to be blue, with the exception 
of C. africana, a native of the Cape of Good Hope, 
a plant with orange yellow flowers, of a trailing 
and somewhat dwarf habit, which has been in 
cultivation since 1759. An observant grower 


grown, but enjoyed for years 
without a tithe of the labour or expense of the 
system called the bedding one, viz., by perma¬ 
nent planting of such kinds as really do grow 
and increase in positions where they can remain 
and become naturalised, increasing in beauty the 
longer they remain and the larger the clumps or 
masses become. The best positions of any I have 
yet found for a permanent bulb garden is under 
the partial shade of deciduous trees, such as 
Limes, Elms, &c., or where the Primrose 
naturally selects its home, for where these 
flourish the hardy section of bulbs are sure in 
do well. In many parts of the kingdom the wild 
Hyacinth forms an excellent example of the 
effect that may be produced by this branch of 
flower gardening if rightly carried out But it 
takes many years to overcome old customs and 
prejudice, and because bulbs and all other culti¬ 
vated plants in our gardens have been planted 
in beds of bare dug earth, I have heard many 
cultivators express grave doubts of their succeed¬ 
ing in any other way. But in the few cases 
where this system has had a fair trial it has 
exceeded all expectations, and as this is the 
season for makiDg a commencement by plant¬ 
ing the bulbs, I would advise all who love their 
gardens to lose no time in beautifying waste and 
semi-wild corners, where the shade of over¬ 
hanging trees causes the Grass to grow thin aDd 
weakly, to plant the following sorts for trial. If 
they are not well satisfied with the results, I shall 
be greatly surprised, for the most suitable kinds 
are by far the; cheapest of any or. the list, and 


u 



346 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 6, 1883. 


the only tronble or preparation for planting is to 
take oat a spadeful of the hard soil and replace 
it with good loam and manure, in which to bury 
the bulbs, the old soil being spread on the sur¬ 
face ; or if any turf has been removed it can be 
replaced over the bulbs. 1 find 

Golden Aconites the earliest of all bulbs, 
and they make a brilliant display on a bank or 
any raised position where they can catch the 
faint rays of the early spring sunshine, or rather 
that of winter, for they anticipate the spring 
with their gay petals, and it is more the rule 
than the exception to get a considerable amount 
of wintry weather after these golden harbingers 
of spring unfold their blossoms. Closely follow¬ 
ing these come the be3t of all spring-flowering 
bulbs, the chaste and delicate 

Snowdrop, which, when seen in well-estab¬ 
lished masses on mossy banks or dells, is not at 
all like the same flower when splashed and 
soiled in beds of freshly dug earth, and put in 
at regular intervals, for these bulbs do not con¬ 
form to prim orthodox (lower gardening, and if 
you would get the maximum of beauty from 
them avoid all straight lines or the appearance 
of edgings, and go in for irregular groups that 
look as if they had grown up spontaneously 
without any fixed method or arrangement. The 
single Snowdrop is perhaps the best of all, but 
all the varieties of this family should find a 
place in the most limited garden. Then there 
are the 

Daffodils and Narcissi, that follow the 
preceding iu the breezy month of March, and I 
need hardly give a more striking proof of their 
suitability for naturalising on grass than the 
fact that the site of many an ancient garden is 
still marked in meadows and orchards by the 
masses of golden Daffodils that spring up every 
year with renewed vigour, and in some cases 
have nearly covered the turf. A great many 
varieties of this numerous family succeed equally 
well as the common one familiarly known as 
Lent Lilies in many rural districts. 

Tulips are so gay and varied in colour that 
they are indispensable in every collection of 
bulbs, but not the heavy-headed double sorts, 
as they break down before a gale of wind. Try 
the single old gay border kinds that are able to 
take care of themselves when once planted. 

Crocuses in their varied colouring are only- 
seen in perfection when left undisturbed for 
years in the soil. Single lines look meaningless 
compared with a sheet of blossom, and I find 
that mice do not molest the bulbs left in the 
soil as they do freshly-planted ones. I have had 
them almost cleared out of the soil when re¬ 
planted, while the old groups close by were not 
molested; possibly the hard unbroken soil pro¬ 
tected them. 

Squils, Anemones, Dog’s-tooth Violets, and 
many others may be added to the list, but I feel 
sure that anyone making a trial of the above- 
mentioned will soon wish to try a more extensive 
assortment, as a maximum of pleasure may by 
this system be reaped for a very trifling cost. 

_ J. G. S. 

Propagating perennials.— This, of all 
seasons of the year, is the best for propagating 
most kinds of hardy perennials, especially such 
as have to be increased by cuttings, as just now 
they are well furnished with young growth, 
which, if taken oS and treated with ordinary 
care, strikes freely under hand-lights or kept 
close in any cold frame. The proper place in 
which to put hand-lights for the propagation of 
hardy perennials is on a north or partially 
shaded border, where the soil should be prepared 
by having leaf-mould and sand worked into it. 
After that is done, it should be made level and 
smooth, when all will be in readiness for the 
cuttings. The most important plants to devote 
attention to are I’ansies, Pentstemons, Antirr¬ 
hinums, and Phloxes, all of which root readily 
now. Pansies may also be dug up and divided. 
In this way they may be so separated that each 
young shoot may be got with plenty of root, and 
when so obtained, they will grow freely if 
dibbled anywhere in rich, light earth out in the 
open. In taking cuttings of Pentstemons and 
Antirrhinums choice should be made of soft 
young shoots, and if these are cut off about 
3 inches long and have their lower leaves re¬ 
moved they will make excellent plants. Some 
strike and winter Pentstemons and Antirrhi¬ 
nums in pots—a gopd^plan, as they can be 

Digitized by GOOglC 


moved from place to place in pits or frames 
wherever there is room. Phloxes not only admit 
of being propagated by cuttings, but they may 
also be increased by division, an operation which 
may be safely carried out now, and the same 
with Pyre thrums and others of that class that 
form multitudinous crowns. All that is neces¬ 
sary with such as these is to dig them up, shake 
them out bare of soil, when it may be seen where 
they can be cut through, pulled apart, and 
separated to the greatest advantage. In re¬ 
planting, the great thing is to choose fresh 
site3 for the plants, as the ground which they 
occupied previously is sure to be exhausted, and 
they seldom do well again in the same spot. All 
perennials like rich, deep soil, and the situations 
intended for them should be prepared by digging 
and manuring the ground; and as much of the 
effect they produce depends on the way in 
which they are arranged, the height and size to 
which each grows should be taken into con¬ 
sideration, and the whole placed accordingly, so 
that the tall may be behind and the dwarf kinds 
in front, with room for each and all to spread 
and develop.—S. D. 

Bedding Lobelias— The best method of 
propagating these is necessarily that which en¬ 
tails the least amount of time and attention to 
the stock during the winter months. Where 
Lobelias are employed extensively for lines and 
edgings in geometrical beds, raising the plants 
from seeds has generally given way to the use 
of the best named varieties of the pumila sec¬ 
tion propagated by cuttings or division, a more 
uniform effect being thus obtained. We grow the 
sort named Emperor William, which is one of 
the best, being a compact grower and continuous 
bloomer. I believe, however, that different kinds 
vary in certain localities. I recollect seeing in 
Wales beds of the beautiful double L. pumila 
grandiflora sheets of bloom, while here we 
planted a quantity of it one season, and not a 
single floVer opened; merely a green carpet was 
the result. It does well in pots indoors, and is 
very useful. As to producing the number of 
plants of it required every year, these, in my 
opinion, are best secured by wintering enough 
established store plants for the purpose, and 
propagating by division in spring. This plan 
is preferable to increasing it either by seeds or 
cuttings. At bedding-out time sufficient strong 
plants for stock purposes are reserved, potted in 
6-inch pots, and plunged in a border or in ashes, 
where they remain for the summer, atten¬ 
tion being given them in the way of watering, 
and passing the shears over them occasionally 
to stop their flowering. About the middle 
of this month, or whenever frost appears immi¬ 
nent, they are taken indoors, the pots are washed, 
the drainage looked to, and a watering with 
weak soot water is given to expel worms. They 
are then placed in their winter quarters, where I 
have found them to do best, viz., on a bed of 
ashes, close to the glass, in a double-light frame 
Fire hefit can be applied, but it seldom is, except 
to exclude frost or dispel damp. The plants are 
kept as hardy and sturdy as possible, abundance 
of air being given in favourable weather. Under 
these conditions they grow along steadily all the 
winter, and by February are dense tufts of fresh 
young growth covering the tops of the pots. A 
little sandy leaf-mould finely sifted is then 
shaken over them and worked in amongst the 
shoots, earthing them up as it were; into this in 
about a month’s time they will have rooted 
freely, when they are shaken out, divided, and 
replanted. From each of these store pots we 
reckon to make thirty plants—not cuttings, but 
strong rooted bits, having several growths. If a 
Potato pit be cleared and can be spared, we prick 
them out in that; if not, then the boxes in 
which Pelargonium cuttings have been wintered 
are made to answer the purpose. These hold 
about siity each, and can be conveniently moved 
about where room is found for them. The 
advantage of treating them in this way is that 
plenty of time is given them to grow into stocky 
little plants by the time they are wanted. From 
first to last they are grown as cool as possible, 
the beneficial effects of which during the sum¬ 
mer are apparent.—A. M. 

10309.— Wintering Salvia patena.— If 

the plants are in pots, the best way will be to 
winter them therein, keeping them in a cold 
frame or greenhouse. When the soil gets very 
dry a little water should be given just to pre¬ 
vent the roots from shrivelling, but if the pots 


are plunged to their rims in a frame, no water 
will be needed. In the spring, when the young 
shoots appear, shake away all the old soil and 
repot.—J. C. B. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 


Extracts from, a Garden Diary—October 8 
to October 13. 

Sowing Mustard and Cress; putting in Calceolaria cut¬ 
tings ; tying up Lettuces and covering up Endive to 
blanch; getting manure and leaves together for makirg 
hot beds ; gathering the last of the Tomatoes, and hang¬ 
ing them up in glasshouses to ripen ; potting Echeverias ; 
also Pelargoniums; thinning Mignonette in pots ; looking 
over Cauliflowers, and tumfngdown leaves where req aired 
to protect the heads from frost; hoeing among nil late 
planted Cabbage, Endive, and Lettuce ; stacking away 
Carrots and Beetroot; looking over the cuttings of 
bedding plants, and removing dead leaves ; earthing up 
Celery when the soil is dry and in workable condition ; 
cutting back the heads of Yews, LaurelB, and other 
shruos where 1>eginuing to overhang each other ; putting 
in cuttings of Pentstemons and Antirrhinums; clearing 
off flower borders and getting them ready for spring¬ 
flowering plants ; filling up all pits and frames as they 
become empty with Lettuces and Endive ; making Mush¬ 
room bed ; gathering last of Vegetable Marrows and 
clearing away the plants ; planting spring-flowering 
plants of the following sorts, viz., red and yellow Wall¬ 
flowers, red and white Daisies, Ibcris, Myosotis, Alyssum 
saxatile, Pansies, Nemophilaa, Saponarias and Silenes ; 
potting Hyacinths, Narcissi, and Tulips; getting cuttings 
of some of the tenderest plants into warm iiuaners; 
looking over Grapes in bottles, and putting more water 
in such as require it. 

Glasshouses, 

CtABDENIAS. 

The stock should now be looked over, and 
such as have their bloom-buds prominent, or 
partially developed, ought to be placed where 
they can be kept not lower than 60° in the night, 
with less moisture in the atmosphere than it was 
necessary to have in the bright summer season. 
If the pots are full of loots, sprinkle a little of 
some or other of the concentrated manures on 
the surface of the ball once every three weeks or 
so; a little at a time in this way will be much 
better and safer than heavy dressings. Water 
must be applied as often as when there was more 
sun to dry it up, otherwise the flower-buds will 
be liable to fall off without opening. Suc- 
cessional plants intended to bloom later may be 
kept somewhat cooler, but must not be subjected 
to too low a temperature, otherwise the bloom- 
buds that should now be set will not come 
forward when submitted to more warmth. The 
dwarf-growing G. citriodora is a prof use flowerer, 
blooming freely in moderate heat, and deserves 
to be much more generally cultivated than it is; 
the flowers when mounted are useful for bouquets, 
wreaths, or in any other way that Orange 
blossom can be employed, for which they answer 
well as a substitute. 

Tuberoses. 

Where these are well managed, and sufficient 
quantities are grown, they can be had in 
flower over a considerable portion of the year. 
Those that are pushing up their bloom-stems 
should be kept with their heads close to the 
glass ; heat ought to be given them proportionate 
to the need there is of pushing them on into 
flower, or the reverse if their blooming is to be 
retarded. If it is necessary to push them on they 
will bear a night temperature of 60°, or they 
may be kept at 50°; but if too cold the blooming 
will not be satisfactory. The same applies to 
plants that have made considerable root and leaf 
growth, and are only now about pushing up their 
flower-stems; if checked by too low a tempera¬ 
ture at this season, the chances are that many 
will fail to bloom altogether. Give water 
sufficiently often to keep the soil in a moderately 
moist, healthy condition, but not too wet. 

Salvias. 

The earliest flowering plants of these will now 
be in bloom, and if sufficiently supplied with 
manure water, will, after the leading terminal 
shoots have flowered, produce laterals freely that 
will bloom later on. Want of room at this 
season, when almost everything has to be pot 
under glass, frequently is the cause of many 
things of this character being stood much closer 
together than is conducive to their well-being, 
the result of which is that the bottom leaves 
suffer, not only giving the plants an unsightly 
appearance, but reducing their flowering capa¬ 
bilities. This is particularly the case with the 
later-blooming kinds. The lighter the houses or 
pits in which they are located, or, these failing, 
the higher the plants are raised up to the roof, 




Oct. 6, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


347 


the closer these and all other subjects that 
develop their flowers through the short winter 
days will bear standing together. Amongst the 
less well-known varieties S. Bethelli (pink) and 
S. Pitcheri (bine) are particularly deserving of 
general cultivation; their distinct character in 
habit of growth and profuse flowering disposition, 
even in a small state, commend them to all who 
are in any way pinched for glass accommoda¬ 
tion. 

Lapagerias. 

Large specimens of these, especially when the 
roots are confined to pots or boxes, are often 
found after a few years to cease flowering satis¬ 
factorily. It is in the nature of these fine 
climbers to require much more root-room than 
many things need. The ability to bloom freely 
will generally be found proportionate with the 
strength of the growth which the plants are able 
to make. Now whilst they are in bloom it will 
be well to note whether there is any falling off in 
the strength of the shoots or flowering, and to 
rectify any deficiency either by larger boxes or 
turning the plants out in a prepared bed. Where 
either of these courses becomes necessary it is 
well to carry it out at once, or as soon as the 
flowering is at a close, for if the giving of addi¬ 
tional root space is put off until near the time 
when shoot growth commences, next season's 
progress will be much interfered with. If the 
roots have more room given them now they get 
hold of the new soil, and are in a position to 
sustain top growth as soon as it commences. 

Berry-bearing Solanums. 

Plants that were lifted and potted a short 
time back, as advised, will have begun to root 
freely in the soil, as when properly treated, they 
push their fibres rapidly. They should now be 
accommodated with a good, light, airy pit or 
house. Such as have their berries sufficiently 
coloured may be at once placed in the conserva¬ 
tory or greenhouse, where, associated with 
flowering and fine-leaved plants, they will be 
effective for several months. These plants are 
subject to green fly, and before being taken in, 
if ever so little affected by it, should be fumigated 
two or three times in succession. Later stock, 
the berries of which are yet green, ought to be 
kept in an ordinary greenhouse temperature, 
where the fruit will colour slowly, coming to 
their best about the end of the year, at which 
time they will be found very useful. One of the 
advantages of growing a sufficient quantity of 
these plants is that they bear keeping in rooms, 
halls, or similar places where the light is in¬ 
sufficient for most things, and the atmosphere 
not such as plants of a more tender nature 
require. 

Primulas. 

It is time now to get both the single and 
double varieties of these out of frames, and to 
place them in their winter quarters, which should 
be in a house or pit where they will receive 
plenty of light, and the atmosphere is drier than 
most soft-wooded plants need. The double varie¬ 
ties especially will be benefited by a little warmth 
continuously; where this can be given them all 
on from the present time to the return of warmer 
weather in spring, they keep on growing and 
bloomiag simultaneously, the flowers under such 
conditions being much larger and more abun¬ 
dant than where subjected to an ordinary green¬ 
house temperature. Weak manure water once a 
fortnight will assist both the double and single 
kinds materially both as regards the size and 
colour of the flowers and the stronger condition 
and more heal by hue of the foliage. 

Cinerarias. 

Plants of these raised from the earliest-sown 
seed will, if they have been managed right, be 
now about pushing up their flower-stems. Much 
of their ultimate blooming depends on the 
treatment they now receive ; the more liberally 
they are supplied with weak manure water, the 
stronger they will flower. They will be benefited 
by having it every time they require water, not 
giving it too strong. Keep the plants so far as 
possible standing on a moist bottom, such as 
damp ashes or sand, without a current of dry air 
admitted at the side. 

Flower Garden. 

General Work. 

At present, beyond the maintenance of 
ordinary neatness, there is no department tliat 
demands any special attention. Advantage 
should, therefore, be taken of the opportunity to 

Digitized by GOOgle 


commence operations on any extensive altera¬ 
tions or improvements that are intended to be 
done during the coming winter, an early start 
being desirable, first, because of the uncertainty 
of the winter, or rather of the weather, at that 
season, and secondly, because the transplanting of 
most kinds of trees is most successful when per¬ 
formed in autumn and early winter, for the very 
obvious reason that they have then time to get 
established in their new quarters before there is 
any danger of drying winds and powerful sun¬ 
shine checking free root action. Rhododendrons, 
Azaleas, and Conifers are the first on our list for 
transplantation, which will be done the moment 
the positions for them are prepared by deep 
trenching and manuring. The character of the 
soil here—a sandy loam—being suited to the 
plants named, no further prepai Ion is needed 
tc ensure success, but those less favoured either 
as to soil or position must work accordingly. 
Drainage, deep tilth, and a loam free from chalk 
and not too adhesive, will grow American plants 
almost equally well as peat, whilst some kinds of 
Conifers really do best in a chalky soil. In the 
flo ver garden, as the plants die off or begin to 
look weedy, let them be at once removed and 
their places filled with others for the 
winter. All the dark-foliaged tender plants 
we are now pulling up, and in their places 
are planting Ericas, small shrubs, and Ajugas, 
and in some instances laying down plots of 
Sedum that have been grown in a reserve garden 
for the purpose, and which, being moved with a 
spade and with soil adhering to them, never feel 
the removal, and are at once effective. The 
principle is also applicable to choice plants that 
it is desired to save from injmy by frost. Let 
these be removed now, and fill in with the most 
suitable plants at command. Keep the edgings 
of the beds neatly trimmed, and bad flowers and 
foliage daily removed; by these means, should 
sharp frost not intervene, a creditable display of 
flowers may be had till quite the end of the 
month. Some disparaging remarks as to the 
value of tuberous Begonias for bedding purposes 
having recently been made, I feel in duty bound 
to say that my experience of them is altogether 
of a contrary character. At this moment they 
are simply magnificent, and have been so during 
the entire season ; next year they will be used 
much more largely. We have them planted a 
good distance apart on a groundwork of Sedum 
acre and Sedum glaucnm, and each plant 
standing thus separately has a far better effect 
than others planted in a mass, not to mention 
the economising as regards plants that this 
manner of planting ensures. As scon as frost 
blackens them the bulbs will be lifted and placed 
thickly in boxes of sand, and wintered in a shed 
that is cool, but secure from frost. It is not'now 
safe to leave unprotected at night any kinds of 
bedding plants; therefore all that have been 
struck in the open borders should either be 
potted up at once, or, till this can be done, be 
covered up nightly. Calceolaria cuttings should 
now be got in. A frame is best for striking 
them in, and the soil should be two-thirds light 
loam and the other third leaf soil. The cuttings, 
which should be 2i inches apart, should be well 
fastened in the soil, and for the first fortnight 
shaded from sunshine. Pansies and Violas should 
be treated in exactly the same way, and these, 
too, should be got in as early as circumstances 
permit. 

Fruit. 

Vines. 

Late houses that were started early and helped 
forward with fire-heat will now be finishing 
crops of ripe, well-coloured fruit, which may be 
expected to hang and winter better than Grapes 
that still require fire-heat, and the wood and 
foliage being well ripened, all lateral growths 
may be shortened back to prevent crowding, and 
those which emanate from the base of the pruning 
buds on old Vines cut quite away to plump them 
up before the foliage falls. As days and nights 
get colder, gradually reduce the temperature to a 
minimum of 50°, with a rise of, say, 10° on fine 
days, and ventilate freely to secure a circulation 
of air when external conditions are favourable, 
but keep the ground ventilators closed when the 
weather is wet and the atmosphere is heavily 
charged with moisture. The above remarks apply 
to black Grapes; but Muscats, where quite ripe, 
will keep well under similar treatment. Houses 
in which Hambnrghs and other thin-skinned 
kinds are hanging must be kept dry and cool, 


not by throwing all the ventilators open every 
day, but by keeping them closed in wet weather, 
and by dispensing with fire-heat as much as 
possible consistent with the maintenance of a 
temperature which does not strike cold to the 
body when the house is entered. Look over the 
bunches at least twice a week, and remove every 
faulty berry before it has time to taint its 
neighbour. Discontinue all sweeping and raking, 
as dust soon disfigures the fruit, and draw a tar- 
pauling over the external borders from this time 
until all the Grapes are cut. If former directions 
have been attended to, all the necessary preli¬ 
minaries will have been completed in the early 
house, and the Vines will be ready for starting. 
If fermenting material is used for external 
borders, it should not be applied until the buds 
are on the move, but some light covering may be 
placed over the roots to protect them from cold, 
chilling rains. The second early house will now 
be better for having the portable lights—as a 
matter of course, recently mended and painted— 
replaced on the roof when pruning, and the usual 
routine of scrubbing and cleansing must follow. 
Many people do not think it necessary to expose 
their Vines or Peaches to the weather, but I have 
always felt better satisfied with the start and 
finish after they have had the benefit of fine 
autumnal rains, which so thoroughly cleanse the 
foliage and buds, and enrich and sweeten in¬ 
ternal borders after they have been slushed with 
stimulating liquid and shut out from the influence 
of the atmosphere for at least six months out of 
the twelve. 

Orchard Houses. 

With the exception of a few late I’lums, Pears, 
and clingstone Peaches, the orchard-house season 
is over, and the present month will be devoted 
to the correction of drainage, potting on, re¬ 
ducing, or top-dressing; and as next year's 
success depends upon the way in which these 
matters are carried out, it may not be amiss to 
again direct attention to the importance of 
using clean, dry pots and drainage, dry, sound 
loam of a calcareous nature, with a liberal 
admixture of crushed bones, charred refuse, or 
old lime rubble. These should be thoroughly 
incorporated and kept under cover for some 
time before being used, and as firm potting is 
imperative, the shift should always be large 
enough to admit of the use of a fair-sized 
potting stick for ramming the compost as the 
work proceeds. Another important point which 
must not be overlooked is tho watering or 
soaking of the balls of the trees before they 
are turned out, otherwise it matters little how 
well every part of the work may be performed. 
Neglect of this will lead to disappointment and 
failure. When ail the trees have been over¬ 
hauled, select a dry, airy, but sheltered situation 
in the open air, place each tree upon two bricks, 
and leave the pots exposed to the influence of 
sun and air for a time. On the approach of bad 
weather fill in between the pots with dry Kern 
leaves or Cocoa-nut fibre to protect the tender 
roots, which soon begin to work through to the 
sides of the pots, from frost, and to prevent the 
latter from being burst or cracked by expansion 
of the soil. It is hardly necessary to say all 
pruning should be performed as soon as the fruit 
is gathered, and the protection of the buds from 
birds by means of fishing nets must not be 
neglected. If trees for potting up have not been 
selected, lose no time in getting them marked 
before the leaves fall. Always give the pre¬ 
ference to clean, healthy trees of moderate 
growth, as they are generally well furnished 
with fibrous roots, and the wood being ripe, they 
always lift well. 

Vegetables. 

Get all late Potatoes lifted as soon as possible; 
if they could be put into sheds, properly sorted, 
before finally clamping them for the winter, all 
the better; if not, put them into clamps at once; 
31 feet wide will be sufficient. Give them first 
a good covering of straw, and then another of 
earth; but that most objectionable plan of 
leaving chimneys must be avoided. They only 
let in the wet, and do harm instead of good. 
Make another sowing of Spinach; keep well 
•cultivated early spring Cabbage and Lettuce 
quarters; hoeing one row and walking in the 
other leaves the whole piece smart and trim. 
French Beans must be earthed and rodded as 
they make progress, and another batch sown. 
Endive may now be lifted, laid in under shelter, 
and have charcoal slightly sprinkled among it 



348 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 0, 1883. 


to keep it from rotting; when nicely blanched 
it makes a very pretty and fairly good salad, and 
desirable as a change. Mnstard and Cress most 
also be sown in small boxes, and a regular supply 
kept up. Get late Celery well earthed up, and 
any Broccoli or Walcheren Cauliflower not 
wanted may be lifted and shedded. It keeps 
well tied np by the heels in a dry shed, or laid 
in among soil, covering up the roots. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 
Still continue to pay the greatest attention to 
neatness and cleanliness in every department. 
No dead leaf should now remain upon a plant, 
particularly if in a pot, a moment after it is first 
seen. At this time of year dead leaves speedily 
decay and become a mass of mildew or fungus, 
which, if allowed to remain, quickly spreads on 
to the nearest stem or branch, and destroys it. 

On the first sign of even slight frost, take up 
and pot old plants of Geraniums, Ac., from the 
ground. It is a good plan to lift these, Lobelias, 
and others, in good time, and allow them to 
stand outside, in their pots, for a week or two 
before housing. If housed directly after potting 
they soon drop a large proportion of their leaves, 
and require a thorough cleaning before they have 
been under cover a month, whereas if treated as 
above, and well picked over when housed, they 
will need hardly any further trouble of this sort 
right through the winter. Cuttings struck in 
pots out-of-doors are now better under glass than 
outside; the autumn rains and damp do them 
more harm than good ; they must, however, have 
abundance of air when placed inside. 

A very pleasant occupation on a fine sunny 
day may now be found in cutting the blooms of 
the beautiful Helichrysum, orEverlasting flower, 
tying them in small bunches and hanging them, 
heads downwards, indoors to dry. These useful 
and elegant flowers may be grown by anyone, 
as they are not at all particular, either as to soil 
or surroundings, provided only they receive a 
fair amount of sun. The new double forms are 
very fine, the habit is dwarf and bushy when 
grown from good seed, and the colours now 
include pure white, rose, pink, crimson, bright 
orange, copper, scarlet, yellow, and several other 
shades. They should be cut when only half to 
two-thirds expanded, and always where the sun 
is shining. When dry they last for years, and 
retain their colour very well. 

Michaelmas Daisies of many kinds and colours 
are now coming into full bloom, and are very 
gay and pretty. Dahlias also, both single and 
double, still produce their showy flowers in 
abundance. 

Thin the buds of Chrysanthemums as fast as 
they become large enough. Remember the 
more you leave on the plant, the smaller the 
blooms will be. If required for cutting, this is 
generally the best plan, but for show only one 
bud to a shoot can be allowed. 

Pot plants in the greenhouse are now best 
watered on the morning of a sunny day, never in 
the evening. B. C. R. 

INDOOR PLANTS. 


10348.—Wintering Geraniums.— Lift 
the Geraniums before frost affects them, but on 
no account cut either roots or tops until the 
spring. Keep them quite dry at the root, in fact 
if put away in an unheated room in October, 
they may safely be left until February without 
any water. Then as the days lengthen divest 
them of all old dry leaves, and water sparingly 
until shoots begin to push, when they should be 
shaken out of the old soil and repotted, reducing 
both tops and roots at the same. Old plants are 
preferable to young ones, being more floriferous 
and less inclined to make exuberant leaf growth. 
—J. G., Hants. 

- By no means repot the plants; the more 

root-bound they are the easier will it be to pre¬ 
serve them through the winter. The roots which 
have gone through may be cut off, and if the 
plants have become large, some of the strongest 
shoots may be cut back, as they will break 
again in spring from the hard wood. A good 
many of the leaves will turn yellow, but this will 
not matter, as Geraniums soon form foliage 
when the days lengthen.—J. C. B. 

10360.—Libonla florlbunda— Do not cut 
the plants back at present if you wish for 
flowers, as straggling plants are batter than 


none, and it is too late to get shoots formed now 
to flower. I would advise getting the plants into 
a warm greenhouse; they will flower early in the 
new year, and as soon as the flowers. fade, cut 
them down and encourage an early growth, then 
shake out, and repot, and grow on in pits or 
frames until J une, when they may be set out of 
doors and fully exposed, as the more thoroughly 
the wood is matured, the more freely will they 
flower. They are neat-growing plants, and 
require but very little training.— James Gboom, 
Gosport, Hants. 

- This is not the time to prune Libonias, 

they should have just formed their flowering 
wood, and be shortly coming into bloom. March 
is the time to cut them in, when they may be 
pruned to the two-year-old wood. Water very 
sparingly until they break, and then shake 
away the old soil, and repot in loam two parts, 
the remainder to consist of leaf-soil and well 
rotted manure in equal parts.—J. C. B. 

10372.— Culture of Bouvardlae.— These 
beautiful plants are of easy culture, and for 
flowering at this season of the year they should 
be propagated in spring from soft young shoots, 
or old cut back plants, if available, are prefer¬ 
able. A light sandy soil, and light warm pits or 
frames, are the best quarters for them until mid¬ 
summer, when they may be fully exposed until 
they begin to show flower, then transfer them 
to the greenhouse as required. A temperature 
of from 60° to 65 0 suits them well.—J. Gboom, 
Gosport, Hants. 

10335.— Ferns. —The Ferns will come up all 
right in the spring, and do not require any 
manure if they have suitable soil. Loam from 
an old pasture, rotted, mixed with leaf-mould, 
a little peat and sharp sand. Do not use guano 
or other stimulating manures to them. It is 
very good in a weak solution for pot plants to 
make them bloom, but I find the best thing for 
soft-wooded plants, Geraniums, Fuchsias, Chry¬ 
santhemums, &c., is sulphate of ammonia—one 
ounce to the gallon. I get it very good from 
Townson & Co., Bowdon, and also from Mr. Davis, 
of London.—A. C., Bournemouth. 

10321.— Fuchsia fulgena— The plant may 
be cut back if too large for the place, but we 
would not do so until spring. The best time to 
prune it is about the beginning of February just 
as the sap is commencing to flow. It may, if so 
desired, be cut back to the old wood, but after 
pruning should be kept rather dry at the roots, 
increasing the supply of water as the shoots 
increase in strength.—J. C. B. 

10325.— Myrtles not blooming.— The 
way to make these bloom is to encourage 
growth early in the year, letting them get a 
large amount of sun and air. Place them in the 
open air the latter end of May, and if they are 
root-bound, cither Bhift into larger pots, using 
good loam with some rotten manure, and potting 
very firm, or watering twice a week with liquid 
manure. A top-dressing of soot will give a fine 
colour and strength to the foliage.—J. C. B. 

10331.— Musa Ensete. —Your plants have 
made good growth. If in the open ground they 
should at once be potted, and placed in a cool 
house, where they are screened from frost. This 
Musa attains, when planted out under glass, a 
height of 40 feet, the leaves attaining a length 
of 15 feet, and when it bears fruit it dies. We 
had one once of those dimensions, and thought 
it the finest example of plant growth we had 
ever seen. Words could not describe its beauty 
and noble aspect.—J. C., Byfleet. 

10368.— Oissus disoolor.— This demands 
plenty of warmth and atmospheric moisture 
when growing, requiring an average temperature 
of 60° by night, with a rise of from 10° 
to 16°, according to the weather, by day. 
Young plants are generally preferred, and 
are obtained by striking young growing shoots 
as early in the year as they can be got. As soon 
as rooted, shift them along as fast as the pots 
get full of roots, using loam, leaf-mould, and 
peat in equal parts, with plenty of sand in it. 
Old specimens should be rested in a warmth of 
about 50°, and in February should have all the 
old soil Bhaken away, and be repotted in as small 
pots as possible, shifting later on. The shoots 
may either be trained to a trellis, or up the 
rafters of the glasshouse. This plant likes plenty 
of light and water when growing freely, but 
must have some shade against hot sun. Be sure 
and give good drainage.—J. C., Byfleet. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Propagating Virginian Creepers — 

Cuttings of Virginian Creeper strike root with¬ 
out difficulty. The best time for putting them 
in is just after the leaves have fallen and before 
winter sets in, as then they callus quickly. For 
cuttings choose pieces of shoots about one foot 
in length, but do not employ the young or 
succulent portion; on the contrary, rather take 
shoots of firmer growth. The long pendulous 
branches make good cuttings if the top portion 
be thrown away and the remainder cut up into 
convenient lengths, leaving of course a bud on 
both the upper and lower parts. Pieces of older 
growth as stout as a lead pencil may also be 
used ; indeed, if the situation in which they are 
put be exposed, such cuttings often strike better 
than younger ones. A good place for their in¬ 
sertion is in a somewhat sheltered border, such, 
for instance, as one protected by a wall, and yet 
at the same time not dry or baked up, as the 
soil often is in such places. Insert the cuttings 
firmly and bury them, so that they are only from 
3 inches to 4 inches above the surface of the 
soil, placing them, of course, in a perpendicular 
position. Kmall-rooted branches may often be 
detached from the base of large plants, and 
where these can be had, treat them the same as 
has just been recommended in the case of cut¬ 
tings.—T. 

The Mountain Ash in town gardens. 

—Amongst berry-bearing trees and shrubs this 
certainly takes a high position, and were I limi¬ 
ted to a dozen trees this would be one of them. 
Being of moderate growth, it is well fitted for 
gardens of limited dimensions, and if I had to 
furnish a list of half a dozen ornamental trees 
suitable for a town garden I almost think I 
should place the Mountain Ash at the head there¬ 
of. Passing last autumn through a thickly- 
populated district, I remarked two moderate- 
sized, but well-developed specimens which stood 
on each side of the main entrance to a villa 
garden. Nearly every terminal shoot was fur¬ 
nished with a large cluster of bright berries, the 
vivid colouring of which was enhanced by the con- 
contrast which they afforded to the rich green of 
the foliage and the white stonework of the dwel¬ 
ling. I never remember to have seen anything 
more cheerful than this in the autumn, and I 
strongly recommend intending planters not to 
forget this fine berry-bearing tree.—B. 

Esoallonia macrantha — Although we 
have many fine flowering shrubs, few are more 
lovely than this when seen in its best condition. 
It is most frequently met with as a wall plant, 
the assistance of which in cold districts it needs 
and well deserves. But it looks best when 
grown as a bush in a border where the situation 
is suitable. When passing through the pleasure 
gardens at Bournemouth in September last, I 
was pleased to see this shrub in fine condition ; 
planted in front of borders, where it seemed to 
be quite at home, its fine green leaves set off 
the trusses of lovely blooms to advantage. 
Associated with Hypericum oblongifolium, 
Clethra alnifolia, Hydrangea paniculata grandi- 
flora, and similar shrubs that bloom at this 
season, it would have a fine appearance wherever 
the climate, like that at Bournemouth, happens 
to suit it.—F. 

10356— Clipping hedges— The hedges 
may be clipped twice in the year without fear of 
injury, as the oftener hedges are clipped the 
more dense they become. The position beiDg an 
exposed one, renders it all the more advisable to 
keep all straggling shoots cut in closely, and 
hedges clipped frequently retain their foliage 
much longer than such as are only clipped once 
in a year, and if required for shelter this is a 
great gain.—J. G., Hants. 

- It does a hedge no harm to clip it more 

than once in the course of the Bummer, and 
where neatness is an object this must be done, 
spring and autumn being the proper seasons for 
performing the work. When, however, a hedge 
has, through neglect, come into a bad, weakly- 
state, it does much good to allow the top shoots 
to run up without topping all the summer, 
clipping the sides about every month in early 
summer. By following this treatment, a season 
or two an apparently worn-out, debilitated hedge 
will come again into a healthy, vigorous state.— 
J. C. B. 

10314.— Manuring’ Araucarias.— A top 
dressing of good loam with a little rotten manure 



Oct. 6, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


34!* 



in it is what the trees want; they are languish¬ 
ing for want of food. Give them abont 4 inches 
of compost, covering the ground around them as 
far as the roots may be supposed to have travel¬ 
led, which will be about the distance from the 
stem as the trees are high. Be sure, however, 
not to bury any portion of the stem, or disastrous 
results will ensue. Do not go nearer than say 2 
feet from the bole of the trees.—J. C. B. 

10361.— Climbers for north aspect — 

The following flowering climbers do well on a 
north wallPyrus japonica, rod and white 
varieties; Kerria japonica, Jasminum nudiflo- 
rnm; also Clematis Jackmanni, viticella rubra 
grandiflora, rubella, and Lady Bovill. If you 
want foliage, take the large clouded Ivy and 
Ampelopsis Veitcbi. These are the cream of 
wall plants for a north situation, and are reli¬ 
able.—J. C., By fleet. 

10347.— Cutting back Araucarias — 
The tree in question may certainly be cut back 
as proposed, but we do cot thick the branches 
operated on will break again. We would cut 
them in quite close to the main stem or un¬ 
sightly snags will be the result. The latter end 
of March is a good time; it is too late now.— 
J.C. B. 

10326. — Propagating Clematis and 

Virginian Creeper.—Virginian Creeper is easily 
increased by means of cuttings taken from wood 
of the current year's growth at the fall of the 
leaf. Take a stout shoot and cut into pieces, 
each one containing three eyes. These are to be 
inserted firmly in light sandy soil in a north 
aspect, or where the sun does cot come much in 
spring, as sometimes they only callus in 
autumn, so that if exposed to hot sun before 
roots are formed they are apt to perish. When 
inserting them, bury them to midway between 
the top and second eye. and take care that the 
soil never gets dry. Managed in this way, the 
Virginian Creeper strikes readily, and Clematises 
may also be propagated in the same manner, but 
only a small percentage of them can be relied on 
to make roots. The surest way, and the one 
generally followed by trade growers, is to take 
young growing shoots from plants which have 
been placed in warmth early in the year. 
Grafting on the roots of a strong-growing kind 
is also much practised, but both these methods 
demand the skill of an experienced propagator 
and special convenience.—J. C. B. 


troublesome—that requires the least care—the 
best. I do not believe in the rough-and-ready 
plan of putting them in a trench like Cabbage 
plants with a spade, and trampling in the clay. 
A few may succeed, but those who treat the 
queen of flowers in that way deserve failure. I 
find the critical period is not cow, but in the 
end of March or April next, when buds burst 
out and root growth commences. These buds 
are very tender, and dread a biting north-easter 
as much, it not more, than a sharp frost. To 
meet this I insert in boxes, say 12 inches deep, 
and half-filled with soil, so that the edges of the 
boxes protect against inclement winds. 

On one occasion 1 lifted the callused cuttings 
in March, and put them to root on a mild hot¬ 
bed, but the success was not in proportion to 
the trouble. At other times I fairly succeeded 
by inserting under cloches or bell-glasses, but, 
everything considered, I prefer open-air treat¬ 
ment. I had some splendid blooms this autumn 
from cuttings thus inserted last October. 1 
must cot forget to mention that when about to 


of sweet Boil, and they are easily propagated by 
layers or pipings. If we only had one flower in 
a garden it would, we think, be a Rose or Car¬ 
nation. 


FRUIT. 

APPLES FOR SMALL GARDENS. 
Apple trees will grow and fruit in nearly all 
kinds of soils, provided they are properly 
drained. They dislike stagnant water and damp 
clayey soil, which induoes canker, owing to the 
wood being imperfectly ripened in the autumn. 
The soil most suitable for their growth is a 
strong sandy or gravelly loam. If heavy clay, 
it must be well mixed with plenty of light soil 
and lime rubbish or old mortar to keep it open, 
so that the roots may be able to grow freely. 
The pits or holes for the trees must be made 
wide if the ground is stiff and moderately deep, 
bottoming with some hard material to keep the 
roots from growing into the cold subsoil. Plant- 


ROSES. 


ROSES FROM CUTTINGS. 

I have been selecting cuttings and putting them 
in for the last few days, and as the time has 
now come for this purpose, and as I believe every 
Bose grower, extensive or limited, should grow 
some in this way—if only to compare results—a 
few words as to the method that gives me the 
maximum of success may be apropos. 

1. I always take cuttings from those that suc¬ 
ceed best with me the previous season,or that I note 
doing similarly well with others. For instance, as 
one can hardly have too many of Gloire de Dijon, I 
always take as many cuttings as I can get. This 
year, on the Manetti, from Mr. Saunders, Cork, 

I found the most persistent H. P. bloomers, and 
with the finest flowers, to be Francois Michelon, 
Dupuy Jamain, Dr. Andry, Fisher Holmes—here 
as good as A. K. Williams, and in many respect 
•imilar—Thomas Mills, Beauty of Waltham, 
Alfred Colomb, and Charles Lefebvre; others, 
often good with some, as Hippolyte Jamain, 
Miss Hassard, and Comtesse Chabrillant, I shall 
not try to propagate. The la9t gave me not a 
single bloom, though carefully pruned, fed, and 
treated. So much for selection from the parents. 

2. The cuttings—I invariably prefer them with 
"a heel,"or cut at an eye,or joint, or at a leaf-stalk. 
The object should be to get enough of organisable 
natter to form a callus. In many strong grown 
Koees, as Mdme. Tht'rese Levet, the shoots are 
"oft and the wood unripened at this time, and it 
> only by chance or special treatment a hard 
opened side cutting can be procured that will not 
at off almost as soon as inserted. I like firm pieces 
fern 6 inches to 10 inches long, and special care 
nwt be taken to remove them with a clean cut, 
aid slightly dress them afterwards. A jagged 
nxgh cut that leaves the bark loose and hang¬ 
ing at the base merely assists rot, and causes 
disappointment. 

3. As to the method and place of insertion I 
have tried many plans, a^d tt^n^ ti eQe^t* 


Clove Carnation Gloire de Nancy. 


insert the cuttings, I put some washed river or 
road sand into the hole first for the base of the 
cutting to rest on; the soil may be ordinary 
loam, and it must be firmly pressed around with 
the fingers. No further care is necessary until 
spring. W. J. M. 

10323.— Sowing Sweet Briers. Collect 
the seeds when ripe, take them out of the 
capsules, keeping them in a dry, cool place until 
the following March, when, about the latter end 
of the month, they should be sown either in a 
jot or in the open air. Let the soil be free, and 
i sown in the open, cover with about an inch of 
soil and press the covering firmly on the seeds. 
They will come up in early summer, and should 
remain in the seed-bed until the following 
March.—J. C. B. 


Clove Carnation Gloire de Nancy. 
—This is a bold white Clove sent to us by Mr. 
Ware in July last. It is handsome in form, and 
exceedingly fragrant. A bed of this and the 
Old Crimson Clove mixed would make a charm¬ 
ing feature, and give plenty of the choicest 
flowers for cutting. Clove Carnations are the 
sweetest of garden flowers ; they are perfectly 
hardy, they may be grown in pots, in windows, 
or greenhouses, or in a forecourt garden in a bit 


ing upon raised mounds keeps the roots near 
the surface, and gives them the benefit of sun 
heat, which ripens the wood and favours the for¬ 
mation of strong, plump fruit buds. Care must 
be taken not to plant too deeply upon any soil, 
for if that be the case, the trees are sure to 
canker. Pyramids suit small gardens best, as 
they occupy but little ground, and if carefully 
planted and properly trained, last in good con¬ 
dition for years. By pruning them moderately 
hard back they will form plenty of fruit buds, 
and all branches that cross or are otherwise ill- 
placed should be cut out. If dwarf trees are 
required, they should be worked upon the 
Paradise stock. They may be planted on the 
borders of the kitohen garden—say 4 feet from 
the walk and 6 feet from tree to tree—or they 
may be planted in quarters, in rows from 4 feet 
to 6 feet asunder and G feet from row to row, 
between which vegetables may be grown. 
Dwarf bush trees are suitable for borders in 
single rows, or they may form plantations like 
those of Gooseberries and Currants. The trees, 
which may be worked on the Paradise or Doucin 
stock, may be planted 4 feet asunder and 6 feet 
between the rows, the ground as before being 
cropped with vegetables both ih summer and 
winter. The young shoots must be kept thin 
and regular in order to admit plenty of air and 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 










350 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 6 , 1883. 


light, so that the wood may become well ripened 
before the trees shed their leaves. The young 
shoots will require to be pinched some time in 
June, and regulated a little in winter, cutting 
out any branches which have grown too strongly 
after the summer pinching. When pruning, 
care must be taken to leave the shoots a 
moderate length, for if pinched too hard, the 
wood often cankers, and the fruit becomes small 
and inferior in quality. 

Espaliers are generally used to separate the 
borders of the kitchen garden from the quarters 
used for cropping. Espalier trees are best 
worked on the Crab, and if healthy and pro¬ 
perly trained they are both useful and orna¬ 
mental, and the fruit is not liable to be shaken 
off by rough winds. Procure young trees from 
the nursery with three or four branches growing 
horizontally on each side of the main stem, 
which should have a strong shoot as a leader; 
the side branches should be laid in 12 inches 
apart., and the centre one should be led up¬ 
wards, cutting it back to four eyes annually to 
furnish side branches until the tree has grown 
to its required height, which should be 5 feet or 
6 feet. The side branches will require to be 
pruned moderately short if the tree is weakly, 
in order to induce it to form strong, healthy 
wood, but if strong the shoots may be 
left longer. Plant 18 inches from the edge of 
the walk, but sometimes 6 feet is left between 
the walk and the trees. This is frequently used 
as a flower border, or dwarf vegetables may be | 
grown on it. The trees should be planted 15 
feet apart. For trellises, some use wooden 
stakes driven firmly in the ground, tyiDg thin 
rods of wood upon the stakes 12 inches apart to 
train the branches to. But the best trellis is iron 
posts or neat wooden ones with strong galvanised 
wire strained tightly in connection with them. 
Sometimes continuous iron bar hurdles are used, 
and these make capital trellises. 

Standard trees are best worked upon 
strong-growing Crab stocks. They may be 
planted in the borders of the kitchen garden 
9 feet from the edge of the walk and 18 feet 
apart. Their branches must be thinned out 
every winter, shortening back the strongest 
growing shoots, so as to admit plenty of 
air and light to ripen the wood early in the 
autumn, an essential point in fruit cultivation. 
Apples are seldom grown in England upon walls, 
but in some parts of Scotland they are grown 
extensively in that way, the usual modes of 
training them being either the horizontal or fan 
plan. Trees thus grown require the same treat¬ 
ment as espaliers, both in regard to summer 
pinching and pruning in winter. 


The best time to plant is October and No¬ 
vember, when, if all goes well, the trees will be 
well established before they commence to grow in 
spring; they may .however,be planted with success 
until they are nearly bursting into leaf, but one 
must not expect the same strong, vigorous growth 
as there will be upon trees planted in November. 
If the weather in summer be very dry they will 
require to be watered at the roots occasionally, 
for they will not be properly established the first 
summer. If established trees grow too vigo¬ 
rously, making at any time long soft shoots, 
which do not. ripen, there will be no ebance of a 
crop. In such a case they should be root-pruned, 
which will induce the formation of short-jointed, 
firm wood and plenty of fruit buds. Cut a trench 
round the tree 3 feet from the stem, 
sometimes it is advisable to cut the trench 
only half way round the tree the first year and 
finish it the second year, digging down as far as 
roots are formed; cut also underneath the base 
of the tree with a sharp spade as far as possible, 
in order to cut the roots that are running into 
the subsoil. If at hand when filling in the trench 
mix a portion of lime rubbish with the soil 
into this the tree rootB freely, and it causes it 
to make fibry roots. Jagged roots must be 
trimmed with a knife, or they may canker and 
decay. I have always found root-pruning effec¬ 
tive in bringing trees into a bearing state, both 
of Apples or Pears. 

Varieties. —Of kitchen Apples I would grow: 
Joanneting, Keswick Codlin, Kentish Codim, 
Cellini, Beauty of Kent, Norfolk Beefin, Winter 
Greening, Hawthomden, Blenheim Pippin, 
London Pippin, Stirling Castle, Tower of Glamis, 
Waltham Abbey Seedling, Royal Russet, Gallo¬ 


way Pippin, Oslin, Melrose, 
Wellington. Of Dessert Apples : 

Li O 


£3: Bo! 


and Dnke of 
lden Winter 

C 


Pearmain, Irish Peach, White Cockle Pippin, 
Ribston Pippin, Cox’s Orange Pippin, Margil, 
Yellow Ingestre, Golden Pippin, Stunner Pippin, 
Golden Reinette, Gravenstein, Barton’s Incom¬ 
parable, Quarrenden, King of the Pippins, Lemon 
Pippin, Scarlet Nonpareil, Warner’s King, and 
Golden Noble. W. C. 


Planting Strawberries.— I find a good 
many people are now thinking it time their 
Strawberry beds were planted. It is time, and 
two months too late. Of course, the sooner they 
are planted the better, and, if good strong plants 
are put out from pots now, they will produce 
fruit next year—not in such great quantity or 
good quality as earlier planted runners would 
produce. Runners dug up now from between 
the rows will be of little use for next season, 
and a whole year is lost. The right thing to do is 
to prepare the ground in July by trenching and 
manuring. Layer the runners into small pots 
as soon as they are large enough, and about the 
first week in August the young plants must be 
put out. It may be dry, hot weather; in that 
case, see that they are well supplied with water, 
and good large fruiting plants will be produced. 
We always get the best crops the first season.— 
J. Douglas. 

Ripening and keeping Grapes.- 

Almost everyone who has a vinery endeavours to 
keep Grapes to as late a period as possible, but 
many fail through not ripening them properly, as 
Grapes are often a long way from being ripe 
when they are black ; after that some kinds want 
a good deal of finishing. This is particularly the 
case with Alicante, Lady Downes, Gros Colmar, 
and others of that class, which are not over sweet 
at any time, and unless the watery juices are dis¬ 
sipated they mould and rot ou the Vine. The 
only way to get rid of these watery juices and to 
prevent rotting is to use gentle fires, which, by 
keeping up the circulation of the sap and main¬ 
taining a dry atmosphere, enable the Vines to 
perform their work and turn the crude juices of 
the berries to sugar. It is this sugar or sac¬ 
charine matter that makes all the difference 
in Grapes hanging, as without it they have 
nothing in them to preserve them, and the pulp 
must of necessity perish. Not only are gentle 
fires exceedingly beneficial for the ripening of 
the Grapes, but they are equally so for ripening 
the wood, which this season, owing to the wet 
sunless weather we have had, is in a very green, 
backward condition, and greatly needs the assis¬ 
tance of dry heat to harden it off. The time to 
apply this heat is by night and during cold, 
cloudy days, but care is requisite to have air on 
as well, as the artificial heat without it would be 
productive of more harm than good. The reason 
of this is that heat in pipes or flues draws out 
damp from the floor of the house ; and as this 
damp cannot escape, it condenses on the Grapes 
and spoils their bloom, besides which the atmo¬ 
sphere, instead of being made dry, becomes 
humid, a condition favourable to the growth of 
vegetation, but just the reverse for the process 
of ripening. It is not the quantity of air, how¬ 
ever, that is required, but only just enough to 
move the atmosphere and keep it buoyant, 
which may be done by having the ventilators of 
the boose open about a couple of inches back 
and front, so as to induce a slight current. The 
heat in the pipes or flues will do the rest, but 
the fires must be kept steadily going from this 
time to the end of October, after which the less 
heat the better, as it will make the Grapes 
shrivel; they must be kept cool and dry to be 
plump.— B. D. 

10337. - Denyer’a Victoria Plum. — 

“Yorkshire” enquires where he can get this 
variety true. Well, I have never had any diffi¬ 
culty in getting it true from several fruit tree 
nurseries, and I have seen it growing in im¬ 
mense quantities at the AUington Nurseries of 
George Bunyard & Co., Maidstone, Kent. But 
there is really no difficulty in keeping this 
splendid variety true, as anyone conversant with 
Plums could pick out the Victorias, even with¬ 
out fruit or leaves, as the growth of wood is so 
distinct. The best plan would be to state the 
exact sort wanted, and apply to a reliable firm 
that has a reputation for fruit trees. I may add 
that in Kent the Victoria Plum is called the 
Dauphin ; that amongst the fruit cultivators it is 
locally called Dolphins, and no better testimonial 
of its certainty of cropping could be needed than 
to hear the workmen remark, in seasons like the 


present, that there would be no Plums at all if 
it were not for the Dolphins.—J ames Groom, 
Gosport. 

10366.— Propagating Blackberries.— 

“ W. L. 0.” will find his Blackberries root freely 
if the points of the shoots are inserted in the 
soil. It is nature’s own way of spreading a 
colony of this useful fruit—the long growths 
arch over until they reach the soil, when they 
strike root, and form a strong terminal bud that 
the following season pushes a very strong shoot 
again in an outward direction.—J. G., Hunt*. 


VEGETABLES. 


Mushrooms In cellars.— Since the end 
of last November we have had a constant supply 
of this esculent from the disused cellars of an 
old mansion, and from another cellar in which 
Potatoes and other roots are stored in winter. 

We find them to do well in both these places 
during all seasons of the year, with one excep¬ 
tion, viz., when severe frosts set in; then the 
temperature declines somewhat too low for us 
to obtain them in good condition, consequent on 
the longer time required for their growth. Last 
winter, being mild, was greatly in our favour. 

We were, therefore, able to keep up the supply 
as just stated, and that always with Mushrooms 
of good quality. Our practice is to make up a 
bed as soon as the one previously made begins 
to show signs of bearing. Two months is about 
the time on an average for one bed to continue 
in good condition. Under this method of 
culture six beds have been just about sufficient 
to supply us for twelve months. In making 
these beds we follow the usual course of prepa¬ 
ration, which it is needless for me to recapitu¬ 
late. The surroundings being somewhat damp, 
and therefore rather chilly, cause the heat of 
the beds often to decline too rapidly ; to obviate 
this we cover them when necessary with some 
fresh long litter, which tends to keep the warmth 
steadier. In the same cellars wc forced nearly all 
our Seakale last season, and contemplate starting 
the first of this year’s lot in them in a week or so. 

By this means we save a good deal of labour and 
material compared with the old system followed 
in the open ground. Rather longer time has to 
be allowed, as no exciting temperature is main¬ 
tained by artificial means, but the growth made 
is all that could be desired, stout and solid, and 
of good table length and quality. We also find 
these cellars excellent places for keeping ripe 
fruit during hot summer weather. Choice cut 
flowers, such as Eucharis and Gardenias and 
Fern fronds, also keep fresh in them for several 
days when it is found necessary to preserve any 
not immediately required for use. Vases of 
flowers, too, that have been arranged early in the 
morning with the dew upon them, keep quite 
fresh till required late in the day. This in times 
of very hot weather we find to be a great aid; 
when flowers cut during the heat of the day 
quickly lose their freshness, these come out 
bright and beautiful and with the moisture still 
upon them. Those who, like myself, have such 
cellars at hand will do well to turn them to 
account for any or all the purposes just enume¬ 
rated. If I were arranging a new place, I should 
most certainly include underground accommoda¬ 
tion in proportion to the requirements of the 
household.—J. H. 

10336.— Tomato cuttings. —Young shoots 
taken off and propagated like bedding plants 
make less rampant growth and are more fruitful 
than seedlings. In fact, for pot culture, I gene¬ 
rally grow Tomatoes from cuttings, inserting 
them singly in 3-inch pots, and when weU 
rooted shift on as required, keeping them near 
the glass in a temperature of about 50°. They 
will make splendid plants in spring either for 
growing on in pots or for planting out on walls, 
and if “ H. C.” has a good sort he will do well 
to keep it true, as we are overdone with varieties 
of Tomatoes, some of the latest improvements 
being coarse both in growth and fruit; a smooth, 
solid fruit of medium size is the one to grow for 
general purposes.— J. Groom. 

10369. — Dandelion salad. — Dandelions 
are grown and used as salad in exactly the sam e 
way as Chicory—viz,, sow the seed in drills in 
spring, and grow on during the summer, and 
in the winter and spring lift the roots as re¬ 
quired, and plant in pots or boxes, and introduce 1 
to gentle heat in a dark place, so as to bland 
tlic young growth, which must be cut wh* 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN • J 


Oct. 6, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


351 


about C inches high. The plants will yield two 
or three crops of loaves, and mnst be then 
thrown away. If a dark place is not available, 
plant the roots in large pots, and turn another 
empty one of the same size over it; in a warm 
house it will be fit for use in about three weeks. 
—J. Groom. 

103G3.— Sowing Brussels Sprouts.— 

To get Brussels Sprouts into full bearing by the 
early autumn, the seed must be sown by the 
first week in March in a cold frame, hardening 
the young plants off, and pricking them out 
when large enough, 3 inches or 4 inches apart, 
in a warm border, setting them out before the 
leaves touch in their permanent positions. 
Managed in this way, you get by this time 
stems 24 feet high and crowded with “ buttons ” 
—that is to say, if the ground has been deeply 
stirred and richly manured.— J. C. B. 

Fruitful Potatoes. —I set two White Elephant 
Potatoes the latter end of lost April; in August I found 
they produced fifty-two pounds. —J. n., Chesterfield. 


INSECT PESTS. 

Aphides. —Prevention, it is said, is better 
than cure, bnt how are we to prevent the attacks 
of insects ? To keep them from greenhouses is 
not difficult—that is, if the houses are wind and 
weather-tight, as the insects can be assailed 
with tobacco smoke. Outdoors, however, where 
smoke cannot be applied, aphides give great 
trouble, as, left to themselves for only a very 
short time, they cause the leaves of the plants 
they are on to curl insuch a way that it is almost 
impossible to get at them. To be successful in 
battling with them, the thing is to attack them 
before the foliage gets into the state j ust named, 
as not only do insects cause the leaves to curl, 
but they cripple the growth to such an extent 
that it is a long time before the infested plants 
get over the check. 

The trees most liable to aphides are Peaches 
and Nectarines, and these will require close 
watching now, as it is when we get cold winds 
and little sun that these pests do the most mis¬ 
chief. The reason of this is, the shoots cannot 
make progress and get away from them before a 
fresh colony is founded. Insecticides there are 
in any quantity; but, unfortunately, most pf 
these are dangerous—not, however, in regard to 
their action on the leaf, bnt on the fruit, 
especially that of the Peach, which, owing to its 
woolly coating, is easily injured. If liquid 
insecticides are used at all, they should be those 
made chiefly from tobacco, the juice of which, 
properly diluted, is perfectly safe, and is perhaps 
as cheap, and certainly as effectual, in destroying 
aphides as anything that can be had. Although 
tobacco liquor is sold, the best way is to buy 
common cheap tobacco and soak it in boiling 
water; if a conple of ounces or so of soft soap 
and one of soda be added to each gallon, these 
will increase its strength and potency, and form 
a mixture that no green-fly can withstand. 

Another good, simple, and safe insecticide is 
soft soap and Quassia, the latter of which should 
be boiled in water for some time, so as to extract 
the bitter, aud the soap may be added afterwards 
while the water is hot. The quantity of Quassia 
necessary to make the liquor strong enough is 
about four ounces to the gallon, and two ounces 
or three ounces of soft soap to the same quantity 
of water is sufficient. One great advantage in 
using liquid insecticides is that they can be 
applied with the syringe, or shoots may be bent 
down when they are long enough and dipped 
into the liquid. This is the best way of dealing 
with Cherries. Roses, the young shoots of which 
are not very pliable, must be syringed; but, by 
a dexterous use of the syringe, the liquid may 
be injected in so fine a manner as to bedew the 
plants, which, if all parts of the foliage are 
moistened, is just as effectual in ridding it of 
resects as it would be to deluge it with the 
fixture. The best time to apply either the 
tobacco juice or Quassia extract is late in the 
ceiling, and then wash off early in the morning. 
Ibis should be done by the use of a garden 
ermine, as, with the force of water that may be 
Hot on from it, a thorough cleansing of the 
laves is effected. 

In using the engine, care is necessary not to 
drsre the water hard enough to knock or bruise 
th* shoots against each other, as in the case of 
Rotes the spines are so sharp now, that the 
foliage becomes lacerated and torn. Peaches 
and Nectarines should be wkshdd and cleansid 

C'i CjO gK 


in the same manner, and by a frequent and con¬ 
tinuous use of clean water, trees of these may 
be kept free from aphides all through the 
summer. One of the greatest checks to aphides 
is timely disbudding and pinching off the useless 
shoots, operations which cannot well be taken in 
hand too soon, as by doing the work early, the 
strength of the trees is directed in the right 
channel, and the aphides have nswhere to lodge. 
Early stopping makes short, close spurs; and 
with Plums and dessert Cherries this is of the 
greatest importance, as it keeps them close at 
home near tile walls, where the blossoms can 
have shelter and protection from harm. D. 


Fowl manure. —I have for a number of 
years had a large quantity of fowl manure al¬ 
ways at hand, and which I have used in various 
ways, viz., in a liquid state, and also spread on 
the garden, for all kinds of crops, such as Onions, 
Carrots, Parsnips, Potatoes, Cabbages, kc , fresh 
from the fowl-house. The result has been ex¬ 
cellent crops. I have also stored it through the 
winter ia casks after drying it, and used it in 
the field when planting Potatoes, soot in other 
drills, and super-phosphate in others, and the 
difference was very great, both in the growing 
season and also the crop. The crop where the 
fowl manure had been was much greater than 
in the other cases. To make a liquid I put, say 
half-a-bushel of fowl manure in a bag, and put 
this into a tnb or cask of eighteen gallons or 
twenty gallons of water, and use it for all kinds 
of pot plants such as Geraniums, Roses, Fuchsias, 
Chrysanthemums, Cucumbers, Melons, &c. Use 
in a clear state, add more water if required. I 
use it green for the land—one barrow load to 4 
square yards — aud dry for making liquid. I 
have some dry by me which I intend spreading 
on my Vine border 2 inches thick this autumn, 
with a mixture of soot.—II. Morris, Glannfan 
Gardens, Glamorgan, South Wales. 

Fowls in gardens. —In many places where 
fowls are kept a deal of trouble is taken to keep 
them from trespassing in the garden, yet they 
are real gardeners' friends, for they destroy vast 
quantities of garden pests, such as slugs, snails, 
caterpillars, &c. ; and although they sometimes 
transgress by scratching up a plant or flower, I 
feel sure that the good they do, greatly counter¬ 
balances the harm, for with the means of tempo¬ 
rarily enclosing them while the seed beds are 
being freshly formed, or while bush fruit hangs 
within their reach, they may safely be allowed to 
range the garden for the greater portion of the 
year. In this locality we are greatly infested 
with shell snails, slugs, &c., and the fowls search 
most diligently for them, turning over the dry 
leaves and even hunting the hedgerows to find 
them. They are most active early in the morning, 
and at daybreak it is amusing to see how 
regularly they hunt the rows of vegetables. 
Lately quite a plague of caterpillars has infested 
all kinds of green crops of the brassica kind, the 
plants being completely riddled in most gardens, 
dusting with soot, lime, and hand-picking fail¬ 
ing to exterminate them ; but as soon as the 
fowls found them, they proved the best exter¬ 
minators, and anyone having a garden infested 
with the ordinary run of destroyers will find a 
few fowls most useful helpers in keeping down 
their numbers, for I may also add that in this 
part we have very few birds large enough to 
destroy shell snails, so that fowls are all the more 
needed, as in rural districts the blackbird and 
song thrush help the gardener in thinning these 
troublesome pe3ts, although they take toll of his 
fruit crops as a set-off for aid rendered.—J. G., 
Sants. 

Seaweed V. slugs— There can be no 
doubt that seaweed is a valuable manure, and if 
horticulturists were but fully alive to its good 
qualities, little of it would be allowed to be 
wasted. Land on the south coast is almost in¬ 
variably affected by a plague of slugs, grubs, and 
worms, and the more that farmyard manure is 
applied the more they multiply. And although 
lime and other applications act both as a manure 
and as a deterrent to slugs and worms, yet I 
question if any remedy is so effectual as a 
dressing of seaweed. I would, therefore, advise 
all dwellers by the seashore having gardens to 
get all they can of this material in winter and 
apply it in the first place to Asparagus and Sea- 
kale, and any left over after that might be dug 
into fallow ground, or put into a heap to rot for 
,other purposes.—J. G. 8. 


WATERCRESS. 

Of all esculents used as salads this is the most 
important, but in London market gardens its 
culture is limited on account of there not being 
suitable places for it. Watcrcresscs are said to 
have grown in a wild state on the banks of the 
Thames and other places near London for many 
years before their culture for market was at¬ 
tempted on anything like an extensive scale, 
and there being then little demand for them the 
supplies from these quarters were sufficient; 
but as they gained popularity in France, Prussia, 
and elsewhere, so the demand for them in Lon¬ 
don also increased, and beds for their culture 
were formed at Springhead and Northfieet, near 
Gravesend, as far back as the beginning of the 
present century. What quantity of Watercresses 
is now consumed in the metropolis it is impos¬ 
sible to tell, but Mr. Horace Mayhew calculated 
that 14,958,000 bunches were sold in the course 
of 1851. Of this amount the street hawkers alone 
disposed of XI 3,049 worth. On an average 
they disposed of 5s. (id. worth per week 
each, on which the profit was about 
3s. 6d. This estimate of the Cress trade in 
London does Dot, of course, take into account the 
amount brought in directly from the country and 
disposed of in other ways. As the population of 
London has so vastly multiplied of late years, the 
amount now consumed must be muchgreater, and 
is daily on the increase, as people are beginning 
to learn the true value of this wholesome esculent; 
although the calculation, as just stated, was made 
so long ago. Springhead Cresses are still noted 
for their superior quality. After these beds were 
started, and the produce obtained from them was 
found to yield remunerative profits, similar 
places were soon made where suitable situations 
existed round the metropolis, and it is esti¬ 
mated that there are no less than 10,000 bunches 
of Watercresses disposed of in London daily. 
Large supplies are now obtained from Waltham, 
Cheshunt, Uxbridge, and other low-lying places 
near the Great Eastern Railway, and the annual 
amount realised by growers for London alone 
is very great. The space at Springhead allotted 
to Watercress culture is about 3 acres in extent, 
and consists of a winding ditch varying in width 
from 6 feet to 20 feet. The supply of water is 
furnished by numberless springs of fresh, clear 
water, which bubble out near the banks of the 
stream in various places, and form them¬ 
selves into a little rivulet. The water con¬ 
tains a good deal of iron, and on the sides 
of the Cress beds, where it is somewhat 
stagnant, the Cress assumes a much more 
unhealthy colour than that in the middle of the 
stream. The beds at Springhead lie in a warm 
sheltered valley; the sloping banks on either side 
of the stream, which appear to be exceedingly 
fertile, are covered with fruit trees, such as 
Apples, Plums, ko, and Lettuces thrive well near 
the water. The Watercress is re-planted yearly, 
generally in August and September, and some¬ 
times in spring. Tufts of the roots are taken up 
and pulled apart, and planted in rows 1 foot 
apart, after which they are trodden or rolled 
down, with a view to induce the roots to take 
quickly. The water is just deep enough to cover 
the roots, and when fully grown the young shoots 
in summer represent a miniature meadow of 
healthy green watercresses. Cutting is practised 
three times a week, as many being cut at a time 
as the markets require. It is performed by men, 
who, with leather boots to knee, walk in the 
beds, and with a long knife chop off the most 
forward about 9 inches long, and place it in 
baskets in such a manner as to allow of a circu¬ 
lation of air through the baskets, in order to 
prevent it fermenting. Before being placed in 
the baskets the Cress as cut is dipped overhead 
in the water, which keeps it fresh until it gets 
to London, when the purchaser afterwards keeps 
it well wetted as long as it remains in his pos¬ 
session. 


CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 

Edward Webb & Son*, Wordsley, Stourbridge. 

John Jardine, jun,, 11, Robertaou Place, Kilmarnock. 


Flowers for sketching;.— Tie shall be 

glad if our readers trill send us from time to time 
specimens of any unusually good or rare flowersfor 
figuring. In all cases the flowers should be sent 
mith fairly long stalks, and where possible with 
foliage also. 


352 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 6, 1883. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

10351. — Producing double flowers 

from single ones.—Double flowers are produced 
in most cases by the substitution of petals for 
the reproductive organs. They are obtained 
originally sometimes by rare accidents, but 
generally by good cultivation and careful selec¬ 
tion—often associated with crossing or hybridi¬ 
sing. To ensure a fair chance of success, the 
crossing should be conducted on scientific 
principles. The crossing induces a break, mix¬ 
ing and infusing, as it were, new blood into the 
plant. When the florist succeeds in advancing 
a step towards his ideal, he takes that as a new 
starting point for a further advance, and thus 
by careful selection through many generations, 
he at last arrives at the object of his destina¬ 
tion. The flowers of the double Stock will not 
produce seed, so in this case double flowers are 
generally obtained from plants bearing single 
blooms. But these plants should be of a strain 
that has a tendency to produce the double form. 
Sometimes on a double Stock there is a stamen 
that is not developed into a petal, and in 
another place there might be an untrans¬ 
formed pistil. If the pollen be taken from 
the stamen and applied to the stigma of the 
pistil, seed will be produced from which double 
flowers can be obtained. The double flowers of 
plants that belong to natural orders whose 
flowers contain many stamens, as the Pink, Rose, 
Ranunculus, &c., produce seed, but in the order 
Cruciferae, to which the Stock belongs,where the 
stamens are but six in number, the flowers are 
unfertile. The so-called double flowers that pro¬ 
duce seed, as the German Wallflower, are but 
semi-double. In the composite order, in which 
are included the Dahlia, Daisy, Aster, Zinnia, 
Ac., the blooms are composed of a multitude of 
florets arranged on a single disc. Kach of these 
florets is a perfect flower, having its organs of 
reproduction complete, except in the outside 
whorls, where the corollas are expanded on one 
side into flat leaflets resembling petals. These 
are produced at the expense of the reproductive 
organs. But in the common garden Marigold 
the outside whorl only produces seed. The 
double flowers are formed by the inner whorls 
producing leaflets—also ht the expense of the 
organs of fructification. Of course if the whole 
of the florets underwent this transformation 
the flowers would be unfertile, but generally 
the florets at the centre are perfect.—L. C. K. 

10352.— Hardy Roses. —Why only H. P.’s 1 
Gloire de Dijon (Tea) is the hardiest Rose grown. 
After some considerable experience, I should call 
the following twenty-four the hardiest grown, 
and all good enough for anything but first class 
shows. Pink : John Hopper, La France*, 
Baroness Rothschild. Frincess Mary of Cam¬ 
bridge, Paul Neron,* Marquis de Castellane'f. 
Scarlet an/l Crimson: Marie Rady, Senateur 
Vaisse, Duke of Wellington!, Charles Lefebvre, 
Countess of Oxford, Victor Verdier, Alfred 
Colomb, Docteur Andrj*. Duke of Edinburgh, 
Cheshunt Hybrid*. Park : Camille de Rohan, 
Sultan of Zanzibar, Baron de Boustellenf, Pierre 
Notting. Blush: Marie Finger, Captain Christy*. 
White; White Baroness Rothschild, best of a 
bad lot. Those marked thus * are not so hardy 
as the others; whilst those marked thus t are not 
such good bloomers.—H. M. 

10329.— Beetles —W. Burton will have no 
further trouble with beetles if he will adopt the 
means I did. My houses were swarming with 
them, and I was advised by a nurseryman to get 
a shilling packet of powder from Townsend & Co., I 
Bowdon. I dusted it into their haunts, and must I 
have destroyed thousands, for after a few nights 
I never saw them, and by keeping it applied dry 
I have not had a return. Before I got it I could 
not keep a Cucumber plant or Melon, they nipped 
them off. It is invaluable to gardeners and nur¬ 
seryman,and is very cheap.—A. C., Bournemouth. | 


10340.— Manure for plants. —There are 
very few plants which are not benefited by the 
application of manure in some shape, but the 
great point is to determine the actual amount 
to be given, as well as the proper time to do so 
A golden rule is never to give liquid manure 
unless the pots are full of roots, and never give 
a strong dose, administering it as you would 
food to an infant, just ro much as can be 
assimilated in/ the course 

\jO 


so much 


three days, 


and then a little more. It is a great fallacy to 
suppose that Ferns dislike manure, they like it, 
but very weak; and as to Funkias, they love 
good rich food.—J. Cornhill. 

10344. — Gutting glass. — Only practice 
will enable you to cut glass well; it is part of a 
mechanical occupation, and must be learnt. 
The reason the glass does not break properly on 
the line is that you scratch instead of cut. 
Practice on odd pieces of glass until you get the 
“cut” of the diamond, and then you will be 
able to manage large squares. But why do you 
not have the glass cut to the size you need ? 
You should have consulted a glass merchant's 
list, and built to any size glass you might have 
chosen, but for a little extra any size square 
may be had.—J. C. B. 

10364.— Tropeeolum speciosum —The bulbs of 
Troprcolum speciosum can be obtained from nurserymen 
in a dry state, but as the plant has to die down in autumn, 
before the roots are lifted, the nurserymen will not have 
the roots ready for sale till the middle or the end of Octo¬ 
ber, which is the best time to plant them. I find the 
plant grows and blooms splendidly on a west wall in my 
garden in Edinburgh.—J. B. B. 

10386.— Wintering Maiden hair Ferns.- With¬ 
out knowing the names of “O. W. M.'s” Adiantums it is 
difficult to advise. Probably they are A. cuneatum or 
A. gracillimum: if so, keep them rather dry during the 
winter, and place in the warmest comer of the house.— 
M. or N. 

10380.— Sea sand for plants —“Tyro " cannot do 
better than use the sea sand from the beach for ail pur¬ 
poses. I have used it for y**ars for all kinds of stove and 
greenhouse flowering plants and Ferns with the best 
results.—M. or N. 

10410 —Vines in pots—If “G. W. M. ,# succeeds 
in fruiting a Vine in a small pot he had better throw the 
Vine away after he has gathered the fruit, and commence 
with a new cane. This he will find rather expensive 
unless he knows how to propagate the Vine.—M. or N. 

10404 . — Earwigs in house and garden. — 
Poultry will soon clear your gxrden of earwigs. Of 
course, they scratch a little, but one evil is less than 
another. I^t them run till the earwigs are all eaten, 
after which you can soon repair the damage done.—L. T. 


Turnips.— J. p. W.— Read the article accompanying 
the illuatrations given in a recent number. The seed can 
be had at any good seed house. We do not know the 
price. 

G. L. t Somerset.—Yes ; it gives all the information you 

ask for.- W.C.P .—“ Town Gardening,” by B. C. Ravens- 

croft. Published by Messrs. Routledge and Sons. 

Price Is.-Cannon, /’.—At any of the large hardy 

plant nurseries. Consult our advertisement columns.- 

Enquirer. — Try Gillingham’s Heat Radiator. It is 
advertised in our columns. 

G. J .—All the Ferns mentioned are hardy, but are the 
better for beiDg planted in a sheltered nook. 

Names of plants.—F. E. Maude — Polygonum 

cuspidatum (Japanese Knotweed).- Ignoramus.— 3, 

Begonia weltoniensls; send better specimens of the 

others.- E. S. W.— Linaria vulgaris.- Vicar.— Saxi- 

fraga cicspitosa, a capital carpeting plant.- Dubio.— 

Asplenium bulbiferum.- Auricula. — We cannot 

attempt to name plants from such scraps.- J. 

Mitchell. — Veltheimia viridiflora.- Typha. — -Lschy- 

nanthuB Lobblanus; your treatment is rignt.- Natura¬ 

list.—I, Anagallls arvensis (Pimpernel) ; 2, Laraium pur- 
pureum (purple Nettle); 3, Veronica agrestis (Speed¬ 
well) ; 4, Polygonum aviculare (common Knot Grass); 
5, Chenopodium album (green Goosefoot). - D. Bu¬ 

chanan .—2, Pott’s Seedling; 4, King of the Pippins; 6 , 
Dumelow's Seedling or Wellington ; 6. apparently Golden 

Russet. - Brixton — 1, Lastrea Filix-m&s; 2, Lastrea 

dilatata; 3, Polystichum angulare; 4, Lastrea thelyp- 

teris.- Emily. —1, Aspidium lepidocaulon ; 2, Lastrea 

spinulosa(7) var. ; 3, Adiantum formosum ; 4 Asplenium 

refractum. - E. R. Sequeira.— 1. Pterisserrulata ;2, too 

much shrivelled up for identification; 3, Asplenium 

marinum ; 4, Asplenium biforme.- Doubtful .—l, 

Lastrea dilatata ; 2, variety (?) of Lastrea Filix-mas ; speci¬ 
men too small to determine the variety, seems to be only 

part of frond. 3, Lastrea spinnlosa- U. For doff. — 

Apparently Polystichum angulnre proliferum. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents.—AH communica¬ 
tions for insertion should oe clearly and concisely irritten 
on one side qf the paper only and addressed to the Editor. 
Letters relating to business to (Ac Publisher. The name 
and address qf the sender is required , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the j/aper. A nswers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title qf the Query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece qf paper. Owing to the necessity qf 
GARDENING goiiig to press a considerable time before the 
day qf publication, it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they arc received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

N ami ng plants .—Four plants, fruits, or flowers only 
can be named at one time , and this only when good 
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name 
varieties qf florists' flower*, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums , 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
specialist who has the means qf comparison at hand. Any 
communication respecting plants or flotoers sent to name 
should always accompany the parcel. 

104.9. stove tor small gree n aouse. — I have 
read wbh much attention the articles in Gardening 
about “ Dnheated Greenhouses." I am sure the infor¬ 
mation is valuable to many readers. I have a greenhouse 
12 feet square ; I do not want the trouble of hot-water 


pipes, &c., as I only want to keep out frost. Is there do 
other stove, except one to burn oil, which would be of 
use to burn coke and small coal, and keep alight for 
twelve hours without attention? There used to be & 
terra-cotta slow combustion stove advertised some month; 
ago—but I have not eeen it lately—which professes to do 
what is wanted at small cost. Can any reader tell me if 
it would be reliable? “ Ashmore" recommends an oil 
stove, but they generally show too much light outside, 
which is not pleasant at night; and I find oil, aa fuel, 
very expensive.— Ferndale. 

10420.—Trees for hedges. — I shall feel much 
obliged for advice as to what trees or shrubs (evergreens) 
to plant so as to form a thick hedge by a public road. 

I have Birches and Weymouth Pines, but theae hare 
gradually all died off, and I am told that it is owing to 
their being near two large Yew trees, which overshadow 
them. Can this be the case ? I am anxious to make a 
thicket of trees or shrubs of a quick, dense growth. Is it 
injurious to cover the roots of an Araucaria with Gnus, 
as this summer I have planted Geraniums in the small 
bed surrounding an Araucaria, and my gardener says it 
has stunted the growth of the trees. Such| being the 
case, I should much like to lay down turf close to the 
tree, if it will have no ill results, much preferring to see 
it standing on the Grass.—S t. Helena. 

10421 .—Plants for window case.—I ihonld es 
teem it a favour if any reader would inform me which 
are the best kinds of Ferns to fill a case 3 feet 6 inches long, 

9 feet wide, and 3 feet 9 inches high. Would it be better 
to sink the pots in Coco&nut-flbre or to plant them out 
in the case? Would a small Palm grow in the confined at¬ 
mosphere of a case? From the construction of the case, 
watering the plants wfil not be easily done, and any al¬ 
teration made now would take away from the light ap¬ 
pearance of the case. I do not suppose they require 
watering often in a case. I shall be very grateful for any 
hints as to the soil, &c. None of my friends here can 
grow the Maidenhair Fern well. A few hints on its cul¬ 
ture would be prized by a number of readers here.— 

X. Y. 

10122.—Much rooms in Cucum her beds—During 
the summer I follow ed the instructions of one of your 
correspondents and put some Mushroom Bp awn in a 
Cucumber frame, putting the pieces of spawn in the 
manure. About half a dozen small Mushrooms came up, 
but no more. The Cucumber plant is now dead. WU1 the 
Mushrooms come now, or is it too late in the season, or 
ought I to put in more manure and more spawn ? 1 am 
very anxious to grow some Mushrooms, and shall be very 
glad of any instructions. I also put two cakes of spawn 
broken up in a Rhubarb bed, which had been well 
manured, but nothing came of it. My gardener said they 
would grow under the Rhubarb.—F erndale. 

10423 —Apple trees unhealthy.—All the Apple 
trees in our garden, with a very few exceptions, have 
fallen into bad health. On the bark has appeared a kind 
of canker, which in time eats through the branches. 
This, we think, is the cause of their ill health and not bear¬ 
ing fruit. We have several very fine Pear trees along the 
wall which bear fine fruit and do not seem to be Buffering 
from any disease. I should mention all these Apple trees 
are standards. As we are putting in a number of young 
Apple trees this winter, any information would oblige.— 
JUNIUS, Banbridge. 

10424.—Lilium candidum.—I have just received 
from Holland some bulbs of Lilium candidum. several of 
which appear to be putting forth new* white roots. I 
shall be much obliged if someone will inform me whether 
it will be advisable to keep these bulbs in a dry place 
for the winter and plant them in March next, or to plant 
them at once. They seem soft, and lam afraid lest they 
should shrivel up if kept dry and exposed to air all the 
winter. Also, when should I plant tubers of single 
Anemones?—R. F. 

10425.—Uses of a propagating frame.—Having a 
small greenhouse from which I just exclude frost, and 
having made a propagating frame from instructions given 
in Gardening Illustrated, March 31,1 should be glad 
to know how I may keep it employed all through the 
winter and spring in striking cuttings or raising seeds of 
carpet bedding plants, or such greenhouse plants as Pri¬ 
mulas. &c. Instructions, plain and simple, would oblige, 
as I am quite a beginner.—C..W. P. 

10426.—Tenants’ fixtures. — Will any reader of 
Gardening kindly say if a foot walk, to get head 
room, sunk through a span Cucumber pit (the walls of 
which are built upon timber laid on the ground), in - 
terferes with the structure as a tenants' fixture? If it 
does, could the frame and lights be taken away in the 
event of moving, and the brickwork left undisturbed, 
also in what way could it be treated ?—Non dk 
Guerre. 

10427.—Celery fly.—All the Celery noarhere presents 
a m ist curious nppearance, the leaves being all spotted 
with black. On looking closely, a green grub is found 
between the skins of the leaf. Is this grub likely to 
affect that portion of the Celery that is earthed ? I have 
tried lime on some rows, and applied a solution of soft 
Boap and carbolic acid on others, but as yet without 
effect. An answer would greatly oblige.—F airfield. 

10428. — Passion Flower not blooming. — I 
should be very much obliged to anyone who would in¬ 
form me of the best method of cultivating a Passion 
Flower which has been planted for quite two years in a 
small greenhouse against a house, which is the only 
warmth it gets besides the Bun. It thrives well, but bears 
no flowers, which ought to be of a dark crimson colour. 
—HORTENSIA. 

10429.— Planting Vines.— I shall be glad of the 
opinion of some practical gardener with regard to plant¬ 
ing Vines. Whether it is better to plant the roots inshle i 
the house or outside. I am about to improve an ol«T 
vinery, and particularly wish to grow good Grapes n it I 
for exhibition, but as being so valuable in case of 
Any hints will be acceptable.—A NOVICE. 

10430.—Propagating frame.—In a very interc* 
ing article in Gardening, September 22, by “ Ashniors 
a small propagating case is described, the very thin* 
want for my conservatory, and I shall esteem It a favsr jf 
if “ Ashmore ” will describe its construction, and hot¬ 
fix the lamp for heating.—R. B. 

I IRRAMA.rWAjl 


Oct. 6, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


353 


104S1.—Mulberry trees. — Where can I obtain a , 
good young Mulberry tree tor planting In a suburban 
garden near London ? Would it be of any use to try to 
propagate from an old tree by cutting a branch off, as 
suggested under the heading of “ Apple trees from 
cuttings,” in last week’s Gardening?—J’attends. 

10432 — Date trees.—I have several plants in my 
garden, raised from Date stones, which I put in a few 
months since. They are about 2 inches or 3 inches above 
ground. Not knowing how to act, or what treatment they 
require. I shall feel greatly obliged if someone will 
kindly instruct me.—G. W. M. 

10453 —Pears sleepy.—'Would any reader be kind 
enough to tell me why Pears picked only three weeks 
ago and In fine weather become sleepy and eat like cotton 
wool ? I have a large tree of them growing on the south 
side of the house, and they are all in the same sleepy and 
uneatable condition.—E. A. 1L 

10134.—Roses for exhibition.—I have space 20 feet 
long (under a Bouth wall). 8 feet wide, very rich clayey 
loam, which I am about planting with dwarf Roses for 
exhibition purposes. How many should I put in, and 
how could I beat arrange them ?—B. H. L. 

10435 —Dissolved bones as manure.—I have 
abont a hundredweight of dissolved bones. Is it of any 
use in the vegetable or flower garden or for outdoor 
Vines or shrubs ? If so, how and when should it be used ? 
—HBRKTAUNQA. 

10486.—^ropigatlnff Fuchsias.—Can any reader 
say the latest time I may Bafely take cuttings of common 
Fuchsias which are now just finishing blooming ? Would 
it be better to save the old plants until spring before 
taking cuttings?—QUITE A BEGINNER. 

10437.—Currants and Gooseberries for fences. 
—Which are the best Red and White Currants for train¬ 
ing against an Oak paling, south-west aspect; also the 
best Gooseberries ; and would they do well trained in the 
same way as the Currants ?—C. w. E. 

10433. — Liquid manure. — Can soap suds and 
chamber-lye be profitably used as a liquid manure for 
root crops generally ? If so,[strength, time, and quantity 
for application would oblige.—SCRAPS. 

l o439.—Summer-fl o weringr Chrysanthemums. 
—Will someone kindly say how these are propagated, and 
at what time of year; also, are they quite hardy in 
Yorkshire?— James Atkinson. 

10440.— Pruning Plumbagos.—What is the beat 
time for cutting back a Plumbago after flowering in 
a conservatory, and should it be cut hard or otherwise ? 
W. C. P. 

10141.—Plantains in lawns.—I have a small lawn, 
but it is full of Plantains. What is the best method to 
get rid of them, and is this a good time to do it?— 
A. BL N., Putney. 

10442.—Books. — Will “Ashmore” kindly give the 
exact titles and names of the publishers of the two books 
quoted in Gardening for September 8, by Mrs. Loudon 
and Miss Hope?—H ursley. 

10443 — Rhubarb at Christmas.—What la the best 
thing to do with roots of Rhubarb so as to ensure pro¬ 
duce at Christmas?—J. P. W. 

10444.—Making' soot water.—What quantity of 
soot should be used to one gallon of water for watering 
plants in a greenhouse?—H uksley. 

10445.—14030 buds decaying?.^Can any reader 
tell me the cause of the flower buds of the M&rdchal Niel 
Rose decaying, and how to prevent it?—J. S. 

10440.—Water barrel.—How can a Tobacco barrel 
( packing) be made watertight to form a rainwater tub?— 
Oddments. 

10447.—Turnlpjam.—Can Turnips (Orange jelly) be 
palatably and economically utilised as jam by a person 
rather partial to the root?-J asper. 

104 IS. — Woodlice in greenhouse. — By what 
means can I get rid of woodlice in greenhouse and 
scullery?—G. W. 

10449 — Propagating Helianthuses.— Can plants 
of the perennial Uelianthus be propagated by cuttings? 
If so, how and when?—W. H. B. 

10450.—Vegetable Marrow for seed.—How long 
should these hang before the seed is taken out?—A. 

10451—Yarrow in lawns.—Is there any way of 
getting Yarrow out of a lawn?—C. W. E. 

10452. — Growing Tuberoses.—Will any reader 
tell me the best method of growing Tuberoses ?—A. G. 

10453 —Shanking of Grapes —Why do so many of 
our Grapes shank, especially the white ones ?—M. J. S. 

10454.—Dwarf Roses.—Will someone give me the 
names of a few of the best dwarf Roses?—L apis. 


POULTRY. 


Ducks and geese. —I have been keeping 
poultry for about two years, during which time 
I have read with great interest the valuable in¬ 
formation given in Gardening, and acting on 
the advice given at various times, I consider I 
have succeeded fairly well this, my second year, 
she first year I may call a failure. I am now de- 
arous to extend my operations, having every- 
ting at my command necessary to carry out my 
lishea, with the exception of experience. I want 
t> add ducks and geese. I have tried to rear some 
dicks, but have found it a very difficult matter 
ts bring them up after being hatched, the bulk 
of mine having lost the use of their legs, and 
then died off. If any correspondent could give 
nutay information as to their treatment from 
the hatching period to, say one month old, I 
should eBteem it a favour.— Poblars. 

Digitizedb CO glC 


Plymouth Rooks.— L. A. N. t Shropshire. 
—If your chickens have, as you say, feathers on 
their legs, you may take it for granted that they 
are not pure Plymouth Rocks. Their legs should 
be quite clear, and of a bright yellow colour. I 
have bred and reared over eighty of them this 
year, and they have proved themselves to be 
quite pure. For further information, see article 
by “ Andalusian ” in Gardening, August 11.— 
Plymouth Rock. 

Fowls eating feathers —Can anyone 
tell me what to do with fowls that pick feathers 
from each other ? Some of mine are stripped 
quite bare round the neck and tail. They seem 
in good health, have plenty of good food and a 
run in a meadow, and they lay well. They look 
most unwholesome, and nothing I have done 
makes them any better.—M. M. A. 

Plymouth Rocks.— Plymouth Rocks should not 
have feathers on their legs, but clear yellow legs with 
four toes. “L. A. W.’a ” fowls have been crossed with 
some other bird.—J. P. 

G. L., Somerset.— One drake will be sufficient. 


BIRDS. 

Oockatoos whilst moulting.— I have 
two pink and white cockatoos, and am anxious 
to know whether any particular diet or system 
should be pursued with regard to them whilst 
moulting, which they are doing at present, and 
have been ever since May more or less. They 
are apparently in excellent health and spirits, 
and, with the exception of losing some feathers, 
they are in good plumage.—L. K. B. 

Goldfinch and canary.— I would advise 
“ Fringilla ” to get a clear yellow hen canary, or 
a white hen, at once, and put her into the same 
cage with her goldfinch. They should be together 
all the winter, and, if possible, allow them to 
fly about the room together. I have bred mule- 
birds myself between goldfinch and canary, and 
pursued this plan with success.—M. P. 

Parrot plucking its feathers. — Will some 
reader of Gardening kindly tell me how I can cure my 
grey parrot of picking out her feathers ? She never has 
meat or bones, and la fed on maize, hemp, and canary 
seed, soaked bread, with biscuits and water, and is in a 
brass cage.—F. S. J. 

Green parrota—Will some reader of Gardening 
kindly inform me if the treatment found so successful for 
grey parrots by “ A. H. Folker,” and described in the 
issue of August 11, would be equally suitable for common 
green parrots from India ? -M. A. C. 

Galllnea— l have two Gallinroa bought for a pair, but 
both are cocks. I shall be grateful to anyone who will 
tell me where I can get hens for them, and whether I 
ought to have more than one hen to each cock.— 
F. M. R. 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 

Indian ohutnee. —Take of not quite ripe 
peaches? green mangoes, or acid green apples, 
10 pounds, sliced very thin; 5 pounds raisins, 
stoned and chopped fine; 8 ounces of dry salt; 
4 ounces garlic, chopped very fine ; 3 ounces 
pounded dry ginger (G ounces if green is pro¬ 
curable) ; 4 ounces mustard seed, cleaned and 
dried; 2 ounces cayenne pepper; 4 pounds moist 
sugar. The fruit, pared, weighed, and sliced 
thin, is to be boiled in good vinegar till it is 
quite soft (as for apple Bauce), then add all the 
other ingredients to the fruit, mix well, and boil 
for about fifteen minutes, adding as much more 
vinegar as will make it of a proper consistency. 
—Uofussilite. 

Preserving Lettuce stalks.— Take the 
stalks of large Lettuces, peel off the outer skin, 
cat them in pieces 2 inches long, wash and 
weigh them, then leave them to soak in cold 
water. Ascertain how much water will cover the 
stalks entirely, and boil this quantity with 
1 pound of sugar and 1 £ ounces of whole ginger, 
the ginger to be soaked in hot water and sliced 
before beiDg added. When it has boiled a 
quarter of an hour, take out the ginger, drain the 
water from the stalks, and pour the Byrup over 
them and leave till next day. The syrup must 
be boiled with the ginger for fifteen minutes 
every day for five days, and poured over the 
Lettuce. The strained juice of one or two lemons 
may be added at the last boiling.—M. O. 

Tomato preserve.— To 3 pounds of green 
tomatoes add the juice and rinds (cut fine) of 
two lemons, boil with some thin slices of ginger 
for one hour, then add 3 pounds of lump sugar, 
and boil another hour gently. Allow it to cool, 
put it into large bottles or jars, tie down, and 
store as any other preserve.— Mofussilite. 


Keeping walnuts.— Can anyone suggest a plan for 
keeping walnuts from getting dry, and should the green 
husk be peeled off when the walnuts are gathered or net ? 
-F. L. D. 

Pickling red cabbbage.- Can you give me a good 
recipe for pickling red cabbage ?—G. P. 


Management of aquaria.—" T. H. S.” 

should at once discontinue putting fresh water 
into his aquarium ; that is the cause of the fish 
dying. There is no need to Change the water, as 
there is a good surface exposed to the air. All that 
is required is a little water added to make good 
the loss from evaporation ; even that had better 
be kept in a vessel exposed to the air for some 
weeks before being added. A few snails will keep 
the glass fairly clean, and add to the interest of 
the aquarium. The bestmethod, I think, of adding 
water is to keep it in a vessel some two feet above 
the tank, and let it drip when required into the 
water below. If “ T. II. S.” adopts this plan, I do 
not think he will have any further loss or trouble, 
provided be does not place the tank where it gets 
too much sunlight, facing north or north-east is 
the best.—W. J. D. 

Ringdoves. —I have kept ringdoves for the 
last five years, and have fed them on nothing 
else but hemp seed, and sometimes a little 
crumbled bread mixed with it. To pair the birds 
I put them in two blackbirds’ cages, hanging 
them close together. I found that after hang- 
ing thus for about a week or ten days they soon 
paired. I would advise “ A Lover of Birds ’’ to 
get two more cocks. When the young were 
hatched, I fed the old ones on crushed hemp 
seed and scalded bread mixed into a thick paste. 
By following this “Lover of Birds’’ will, no 
doubt, be as successful as I have been.—O ne 
who keeps Doves. 

Keeping rabbits.—I should be glad if 
some reader of Gardening would give me 
advice upon the following: I am thinking of 
keeping rabbits in a small way for home con- 
sumption. What would be the best sort to 
keep ? I have been thinking of Belgium hares. 
Would these be better than the common sort; 
and what would be the price of a doe; also 
what crops could I grow in a small garden to 
store away for their winter food ?—A. H. C. 

Feeding a tortoise— In answer to 
“ W. H. V.,” how to feed a tortoise, I have had 
one over thirty years, and during the summer I 
give it soaked bread daily, and when obtainable 
a few Lettuce leaves, and a saucer of water to 
drink. In the winter it will burrow in the ground 
and Bleep for six months, when it will not require 
to be fed.—E. E. 

Bait for peroh and tenoh.— Perch will 
take a worm freely almost at any time of the 
day. Tench will generally do the same, either 
early in the morning or late in the evening; but 
a thin net, with a bunch of gay flowers fastened 
inside in the middle, and sunk in the pond just 
before dark and taken up next morning, is very 
effective.—B. 

Food for tortoises.—Can any reader ot Gakpen- 
ing give me any information as to the beat food for very 
small tortoises with tails, brought from Venice lately? 
Do they require any green food, and what sorts, or do 
they live entirely upon insects and water 1 They will not 
eat Lettuce.—F. L. L. 

Earwigs are really orthopterous (winged). The 
wings are folded under very short and truncate elytra, 
or wing cases. From the limited development of their 
wings they are unable to fly, but from the size and strength 
of their legs possess superior powers of running.—A. 14. 

Fish ponds —What is the smallest-sized pond that 
could he made available for fresh water fish, and can eels 
be kept in the pond with other tlBh, such ns carp? 
Any practical hints as to construction and management 
will much oblige.—P iscator. 


L ' ENT LILIES' 3s 7per 100, -25s. per 100); 

Primroses, Ss. per 100, £1 per 10.0 : special cheap bar¬ 
gains for collections of hardy border plants. Ferns, Ac.— 
* WILDFLOWER." Lindow Common. vVibmdow 

O KANUE TREKS —Tnree fine old treeB—fruit 
bearing—in larre pots 22 inches diameter.—For particu¬ 
lars, apply Mr. GREGORY, Hartford Beach, North wich, 
Che.-hire. _ __ 

T) AISIES i DAISIES i!—For early spring bloom. 
J J Double crimson, white* and pink, 6d. doz., 2s 6d. 100; 
Hweet Williams (Hunt’s strains), Oan ter bury Bells, gold- 
laced Polyanthuses, go’d strougulants. 8d. doz , 4s. ftd 100, 
post fiee.—W. A F. WHEELWRIGHT, Florists, Oldswin- 
ford, Stourbridge. ______ 

DANSIE3 1 PANSIES ! I PANSIES M!-400 

A varieties of the finest named show and fancy Pansies; 
12 strong plants of either. 2s. 6d. ; cuttings, la. per doz., 
po#t free.—W. & F. WHEELWRIGHT, Florists, Oldswin- 
ford, Stourbr idge.____ 

PANSIES, show and fancy, 4s. per doz. Rose 
1 and Pansy Catalogues for a penny stamp.—GEORGE 
TEMPLETON, More Merchant, Prestwick, N B 


354 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. fi, 1883' 


the 

■LOADSTONE COLLECTION 

OF 

HARDY ANNUALS 

foe. .A.'O'T'criMrisr sowing. 

When sown iii autumn hardy annuals bloom much earlier 
and finer than when sown in the ordinary way in Bpring. 

ALL ^DST FREE. 

LOADSTONES azure blue CORNFLOWER, for early 
spring blooming, sow at once, good packet. 1 b. Id., the Ger¬ 
man national emblem. 

LOADSTONE’S special strain INDIAN PINK, wonder¬ 
fully handsome, large packet Is. la., with sample bloom. 
Sow open ground at one. 

FOXGLOVES pure white. Loadstone’s own special strain, 
bow now open ground. Packet free, seed. Is. Id. Fine 
spotted Foxgloves, la. Id. 

LOADSTONE S FLORAL BUDGET. Nine Bhowy hardy 
annuals, for very early spiing blooming. Sow at once, open 
ground. Free, 2s. 9d_ 

LOADSTONE’S collections of nine showy HARDY PE¬ 
RENNIALS, to sow open ground at once. Free, 2s. 9d. 

LOADSTONE’S CANTERBURY BELL8, rose, blue, 
white, very fine varieties, one packet each, free. Is. 3d., tow 
now, also new cup and saucer varieties, mixed, Is. 3d. 

LOADSTONES SNAPDRAGONS, beautifully splashed 
and striped, in thirty different shades. Seed saved this 
strain, Is. 3d. packet, tree; sow now. 

LOADSTONE’S special strain striped FRENCH MARI¬ 
GOLD. Large packet fresh harvested seed Is. Id., with 
sample bloom, extremely handsome. 

LOADSTONE’S SCABI0U8, best dwarf German, large 
packet seed, with sample bloom, free, Is. 3d. ; bow immedi¬ 
ately open ground for spring blooming. 

LOADSTONE’S MIGNONETTE, for winter bloomiog, 
bow at once iu pots or boxes, packets of new Golden Queen 
or Mileas Spiral, 1b. 3d. each; giant flowering Mignonette, 
large packet, la., freph harvested seed. 

WINTER BLOOMING WALLFLOWERS, Loadstone's 
now noted blood red and dwarf golden strain, bow at once 
open ground Puckets, Is. 6d,, free. 

*' LOADSTONE’S " collection nine choice biennials, free, 
2a. 9J. 


J. LOADSTONE, 

_LLANELL Y, C ARMARTHENSHIRE._ 

Plants & B ulbs for the Million! 

NOTE THE PRICES! 

A11 free at prices quoted for cash with order, well roofed, and 
warranted to arrive safe and fresh to any part of the United 
Kingdom. 

Qfjf\ IMPORTED DUTCH ROOTS and 200 

OUVJ plants for 21s., half 11 b., quarter 63 , consisting of 
Hyacinths, Tulips. CrocuB, 8nowdropg, Narcissus, AneinoneB, 
Ranunculus, Aconites, Iberia, Wallflower*, Ac. Satisfaction 

guaranteed.— J. SYLVESTER, Idle. Bradford, _ 

r T I ULlPi$, 100 in twenty named varieties Gs. 6d., 
-L 100 mixed 4*. 6d., 12 in 12 named varieties Is. 3d, 12 
mixed 9d HYACINTHS, 12 exhibition varieties, named. 
5a. 8d. or fis . mixed 2s fid. to 3 r 6d per doz. OROCUM. 100 
2 b. SNOWDROPS, 100 2a. fid. Catalogues free.—J. SYLVES¬ 
TER. Idle. Bradford. 

1 Dpi BULBS AND PLANTS for 3a., viz.: Hya- 
J-VJU cinttas. Tulips, CrocuB. Narcissus. Snowdrops, Wall¬ 
flowers. Anemones. Ranunculus, 4c. Satisfaction guaran¬ 
teed- J. SYLVESTER. Idle, Bradford _ 

HNLY 2s. 6d , Free.—Three each of following 
V —White Roman Hyacinth, blue ditto, double Roman 
Narcissus, Begonia Bemperflorens. Will all flower at Christ* 
ma a. _ 

tT YACINTHS, named, 12, 4s. 6d.; 100, 30s.; 

XI Anemones. 2*. fid.; Ranunculus. 2s.: Winter Aconites. 
2s.; double Daffodils. 2s. fid ; Narcissus poeticu", 3i., all per 
100. Whi-e Roman Hyacinths, 2s. 6d. and 3e doz ; double 
Roman Narcissus. 2s and 2s. Gd. rer dozen ; both to flower at 

Christmas — J, SY L VESTER, Idl e. Bradford._ 

HNLY 5s.—Six each of following: Double 
VJ Roman Narcissus, white Roman Hyacinths, blue do., 
Begonia pemperfloTens, Due V»n Thol Tulips, Crocus, Know- 
drops ; all to flower at Christmas._ _ 


*D EGON IA 8EMPEKELO RENS, rose, and 

X3 graudiflora. white, will bloom all winter, 6. 2 b. ; 12. Ss. fid.; 
Auriculas, Aquilegias, 2s. dot ; Carnations, Picotees Pioks, 
Primrose. Poljanthus. Pyre^hrum, Potentilla, Is. doz 6s 6d. 
100; Wallflowers, Sweet Williams. 3a fid 100 (see Garden¬ 
ing, Sept. 15, for varieties).—J. SYLVESTER, Idle, Brad- 
f ord__ 

TTALUE FOR MONEY.—Bulbs at wholesale 

V prices. 

12 b c st named Hyacinths. 4s., 30s. 100. 

VALUE FOR MONEY.—Bulbs at wholesale prices by parcels 
post. 

12 best named Hyacinths, 4s. 3d.; 100, 30s. 

12 bedding Hyacinths, red, white, and blue, 2s. fid.; 100, 18s. 
100 best named Crocus m var., 2s.; 1000, 18s. 

100 Tulips in variety, 10s. 

12 Narcissus, 4 best varieties, 2*. 9d.; 100, 16a. 

100 double Snowdrops, 3s.; 100 single, 2s. 6d 
ICO Pheasant-eyed Narcissus, 4s. 

Orders over 5s post or package free for cash with ordeT. 
JONES & NORTH, Hope Nursery, Lewisham, Kent. 

Dutch Flower Roots, every Monday, Wednesday, 4 Saturday, 

TV/TK,. J C. STEVENS will SELL by AUCTION, 

XYX at his Great Rooms. 38. King Btreet, Covent Garden, 
every Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday, at half-past 
twelve precisely, a larse consignment of first class double and 
single Hyacinths, in all colours, Tulips, Crocuses. Narcissus, 
Scillas. Snowdrops, early Roman Hyacinths, and other bulbs, 
just received from well-known farms in Hollaud, in lota to 
suit the trade and private buyers. 

On view morning of Hale and Catalogues had. 


WILD DUCKS.-Live WUd Ducks for Sale, 

V “ pure bred and pinioned, 8s. a couple, or three (mallard 
and two ducks) for lGa.6d.-Mr8. L. HIBBERT. Ohalfont 
Lodge, Gerraraa Cross, Rucks. 

Digitizes glC 


T7LLWAY & SON, LaDgport, Somerset, offer 
Ax Gladioli spikes. Dahlias, single and double; Pyre- 
thrums, Bingle and double; Phloxes and Tea Rosib, Calceo¬ 
laria and Cineraria seed. Catalogues gratis and post free. 

"HUTCH HULLS.—Cheapest in the trade.—Do 
not purchase till you have seen my catalogue, post free 
on application.- HUGHE S, Marketp lac e, Abingdon. 

O INGLE DAFFODIL, or Lent Lily, per ICO, 

k- 3s. fid. ; double yellow Daffodil, per 100, 3s. 6cL ; poeticu.? 
or Pheasant's-eye Narcissus, per 100, 3«. fid ; poeticus fl.-pl, 
or double white sweet-scented Gardenia Narcissus, per ICO, 
6s —JAMES VE1TCH 4 SONS, Royal Exotic Nursery 
Chelsea, S.W. 


TJYACINTHS, the most precious of all spring 
■LL flowera ; carefully picked bulbs, much superior to those 
usually sold at auctions; the best selections for pofcc or 
glasses, with cultural directions, fin., 9s , and 12b. per dozen, 
free ; any quantity sent.—STUART 4 MEIN, Kelso, Scot 
land. _ 

T^ULIPS, of immense value for spring deco- 
X ration either under glass or in beds in the flower garden 
the best selections for pots. Is. fid and 2a. 6d. per dozen ; for 
beds, to bloom simultaneously and give striking contrast of 
colours, Gs., 9s , and 12s. per 1* 0 ; any quantity sent; free by 
post with directions —STUART 4 MEIN, Keleo, Scotland. 


HROCUS, the most showy of all the early spring 
flower?, blooming in February and March; the best 
selections for bedding or planting in broad bands or clumps; 
yellow, white, blue, lilac, striped. &c., 2s. 6d. to 4s per 100, 
free : any quantity sent; list and directions — S1UART 4 
MEIN, Ke l so, Scotland. _ 

A MATEURS' COLLECTIONS OF DUTCH 

XL BULBS, containing a liberal assortment of the best and 
most distinct kinds for growing in pots, glasses, window 
boxes, vases, and outdoors in beds or borders, 5s., 7 b. 6d, and 
12 h. fid., free. Beware of the cheap stuff sold at auctions.— 
STUART 4 MEIN, Kelso, Scotland 

nOLLECTI ONSTOF "DUTCHBULBS .-These 

VJ are got up on a liberal scale, and contain carefully 
picked, heavy bulbs of the best and most distinct kinds, suit¬ 
able for large gardens for growing os above; 21s., 42s. fi3*, 
and 84s. and upwards, carriage free.—STUART & MEIN, 
Kelso. Scotland. 

Olq COLLECT JON Ob’ DUTCH BULBS 

LI lui contains a very liberal assortment of the best Hya¬ 
cinths for pots or glasses; Narcissus. Tulips. Crocus. Snow¬ 
drops. Anemones, Ranunculus, Liliums. Scilla sibirica; all 
selected bulbs of the finest quality, delivered free to any 
address.—STUART & MEIN. Kelso. Scotland. 


"I On fir) COLLECTION OF DUTCH BULBS 

X"D» UUi contaiRB a very liberal assortment as above, 
suitable for those having a small greenhouse, or, if desired, 
they may be planted in window boxes, or in beds and borders 
out-of-doors; delivered free to any address.—STUART 4 
MEIN, Kelso, Scotland^ 

7q EHCollection of'dutchbulrs 

/ UU» contains a exc« llent variety of the best bulbs 
suitable for pots, glasses, or window boxes, and will give a 
grand display in Bpring without much trouble or any difficulty 
as to their treatment; delivered free to any address.— 
HTUAKT 4 MEIN. Kelso, Scotland. 


Cq COLLECTION OF DUTCH BULBS con- 

vJo. tains a well selected variety of the most useful kinds 
for a small garden or greenhouse : they are all of easy 
culture, and will give an excellent display without much 
trouble in their management; delivered free to any address. 
Buy early and secure tho best bulbs.—STUART 4 MEIN, 

Kelso, Scotland. _ . _ 

"DERNS AND BEGONIAS.—Four Maiden-hair 
L Ferns, two varieties ; two variegated Ferns and six 
Begonias, with beautifully marked leaves. 2s. 6d., free.— 
MAIRIH 4 CO.. Weston-in-Gordano, Bristol 


ANE FARLEYENbE, the most beautuul Fem 
W that grows; two climbing Begonia fucheioides, coining 
into flower; two variegated Lycopodiums; two scarlet 
Tropaeolums that will flower all the winter. The collection 
free for 2s. 6d.— M AIRIS 4 CO., Weston-in-Gordano, 
Bristol. „ 


rPHE BEAUTIFUL MAIDEN HAIR FERNS, 

X Adiantum cardiochlienum, Adiantum concinnum latum, 
two winter-tioweriDg Begonias, two scarlet Epiphyllums, and 
two greenhouse climbers, beautifully variegated ; the eight 
plants correctly named, free 2s. 6<L — M AIRIS & CO., 
Weston-in-Goraano, Bristol. 


■ROSES ON OWN ROOTS. —'Wonderfully 

Xu cheap: fiom 10 inches to 15 inches high ; strong plants, 
will soon bloom; Reel Gloire de Dijon (the new Rose), 
Homere, Isabella Sprunt, and Gloire de Dijon : the four for 
2s. fid., free; price per dozen, 7s., free. —MAIRIH 4 OO., 
Weston-m-Goraano, Bristol. 

■RED GLOIRE DE DIJON and five beautiful 

Xb perpetual Roses, all on own roots ; the s>x Btrong trees 
free for 2a. 6d.—MAIR1S 4 CO., W«stou-in-Gordano, Bristol. 

WINTEfLFLOWERING BEG ON IAS.-Eight 

* “ strong plants, will flower all the winter for 2s. 6d., free; 
SemperflorenB, Weltonienais, Parvifiora, and Fuchsioides.— 
MAIRIH 4 GO., Weston-in-Gordano. Bristol. 


1 nOO BULBS in 10 varieties, 2ls., post free.— 
XU\JVJ Dutch Bulbs just imported, at Dutch prices. 
Named Crocus, 1b. per 100 ; ramed Tulips (double and single). 
4a. per 100; named Hyacinths, 3a. per doz.; Liliums, 6d. 
each ; Spinea, 3d. each; Dielytra, 6d. each: Narcissus, fine. 
Id. each. Many other kinds in stock cheap.—W. CULLING' 
FORD, Forest Gate, E. 


Dutch Bulbs at Dutch Prices. 

"REST Crocus bulbs, Is. per 10C ; 200. post free, 
XJ 2s. Gd.; beat double or single Tulips, 4s. 1G0; best double 
or single Hyacinths, 3s. doz.; best Iris, 50 for Is.; Snow¬ 
drops. 2 s. 100; 1000 bulbs free for 21s., all named bulbs, in 10 
sorts.—W. CULLINGFORD, Forest Gate, E. 


Three Plants by Parcels Post Is. extra. 
AZALEAS, 18 inches high and 18 inches 

XX diameter, well set with buds, 2s. each: Camellias, nice 
bushy plants, well set with buda, 2a. each; Hoyas, 9d. each, 
3 feet high; Ficus elastica. Is. 6d each, 18 tnohe3 high; 
Palms, flue, Is. 8d. each.—W. GULLING FORD, Forest 


YARDS RABBIT NET, post free, S3. 6d. 

vJ VJ 12 Rabbit Ferreting Nets, post free, 5a. 6d. 

20 yards by 38 inches wide Tiffany Shading, post free, 6s. 
Tanned Netting, 2 yards wide, at lid. yard ; 600 yards. 30s 
Bat Folding Net. post free. 5s. ’ 

W. CUliLINGFORD, Forest Gate, E. 


Ur • 


Bend four 
Stamps for New 
Catalogue 
of 


BULBS 


richly illuatn. 
ted in colours, 
correctly 
after Nature. 


The 4d. will be returned in the first purchase. 

HOOPER & CO., CouvntGaicten, London. 



DANIELS’ 

CHOICE **• 

FLOWER ROOTS. 

OUR CUIHEABOX 

0F 

Choice Hardy Flower 
Roots for Outdoor 
Planting 

Contains the following liberal 
assortment of 565 Bound picked 
bulbs, with full instructions for 
cultivation, pack iog and carriage 
free to any address in the 
British Isles:— 

25 Hyacinths, choice r-ixed 
200 Crocus, in fine variety 
12 Tulips Rex rubrorum 
12 Tulips La Heine 
12 Tulips, double mixed 
12 Tulips, single mixed 
12 Tulips Parrot mixed 
25 Anemones, double mixed 
12 Anemones, double scarlet 
25 Anemones, single mixed 
6 Chionodoxa Lucilia; 

12 Polyanthus Narcissus mixed 
12 Double White Narcissus 
12 Phea ant's-eye Narcissus 
6 Campemelle Jonquils 
25 Ranunculi, scarlet Turban 
25 Ranunculi, mixed Turban - 
50 Snowdrops 
50 Winter Aconites 
12 Spanish Iris 
6 Triteleia uniflora 
2 Lilies 

Two boxes 40s., half box 12a. 64. 

From Miss Dawson, Norbiton, April 7. 

" Miss Dawson has much pleasure in stating that the Guinea 
Collection of Flower Roots has proved a great success, and -3 
has been greatly admired.” 

Other collections for Greenhouses and Conr-ermtory, 
Window-boxes, Ac., 12s fid . 21s., 42s., 63 <l, and 84s. 

Beautifully Illustrated CATALOGUE j>oat free on ^ 
application. > 

DANIELS "BROS., 

Eoyal Norfolk Seed Establishment, jg 
_N OEWIGH. , , 

CHOICE DUTCH BULBS * 

For Autumn Planting. 

— 

We have pleasure in offering the following Dutch Flower 
RootB, of unsurpassed quality, securely packed, and for¬ 
warded per parcels post or rail free to any addrets on receipt 
of ctampg or P.O.O. 

& & 

Hyacinths, choice named, for pots or glasses, 

4b. fid., Gs . and 9 0 

,, mixed, single or double, for pots or 

bedding. 30200 

.. Bingle White Roman. 3 0 20 0 

Tulips, early single, in 4 distinct named kinds .. 1 6 10 0 
,, double, in 4 distinct named kinds.. ..1380 

., choice mixed, double or single .. ..1060 

Crocus, choice named, in 4 distinct colours, pr 1000 22 6 3 0 
,, Dutch, in 4 distinct colours, per 1000 15 0 2 0 

,. mixed, all colours .. per 1003 10 0 I 6 

Polyanthus Narcissus, in 4 named sorts .. ..3 0 

Narcia&us alba plena odorata. 1360 

„ poeticuB.. .. ..1050 

Anemones, choice double, in 4 named sorts ..1880 

„ double scarlet . 1380 

,. double, mixed . 1060 

„ single, mixed .i 6 

Ranunculus, Persian, mixed. 0 9 3 0 

.. Turban, in 4 distinct colours.. .,0 9 4 0 

Snowdrops, double . per 1000 25 0 3 0 

,, single. per 1000 22 6 2 6 

Ixias, fine mixed. ,,1 0 6 0, 

Scilla sibirica . .1066 

For other varieties of Flower Roots, see Catalogue. 

ISAAC BRUNNING & CO., 

Seed Merchants and Nurserymen,j 

GREAT Y AR MOUTH.__ 

OEDUM SPEGTABILE —Fine hardy perennial 

Kj bedding plant, producing mass of piuk blossom (.«« 
Gardening, August25) good plants from which many may V 
produced in spring; price,9d.each, post free : also ANKMOjf 
JAPONICA ALBA. Phloxes, and Saxiftaga pyramidalis • 
abundance, 6d. and Is., post free.— 1 "X. A.,' care of Mrs. f 1 
Percival. Oast Is Hedingham, Essex. 
















GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED 


V'OL. V. 


OCTOBER 13, 1883. 


No. 240. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


autumn work in the garden. 

TnE season has now arrived when preparations 
for next year must be set about, as most hardy 
plants bloom better if established before winter, 
especially those that flower in spring or early 
summer. 

All alterations should be planned now, and a 
clear idea formed of what the arrangements are 
to be for the next season. While these matters 
are being thought about, I would plead for a 
more extensive use of hardy plants in small 
gardens than we have yet seen, and even in 
large gardens we are still too dependent on 
bedding out stuff for summer decoration. 

It may be as well to warn Londoners not to 
look to the public parks for any guidance as to the 
proper placing or cultivation of hardy flowers, 
or of their effect in gardens. The gardeners of 
those places eitherdislike hardy plants or knowso 
little about them that they are afraid to use 
them. The bedding plants used are cultivated 
to perfection, while the hardy plants are totally 
neglected, and a miserable failure in almost 
every instance. Hants in maty cases are placed 
together requiring totally different positions 
and culture. There are two main lines on 
which alterations should be made. First abolish 
as much as possible shrubbery borders; and 
secondly, do away with all small and geometric 
beds. Where flower borders exist in front of 
shrubs with a margin of turf—one good way 
would be simply to shift the turf back to the 
shrubs, and make the flower borders where the 
turf was, so that the shrubs would feather down 
to the Grass. If this is done, a good dressing 
of fat manure should first be dug in for the 
shrubs to feed on ; then 6 inches of the surface 
soil should be made lighter for the turf. This 
would prevent the shrubs from rooting into the 
flower border, and also keep the Grass from 
growing too rank. A better way would be to do 
away with turf edgings and vergings, and sub¬ 
stitute bands of rockery, covered with neat rock 
plants. Turf verges are a continual toil, necessita¬ 
ting constant and never-ending labour. Whereas, 
neat rockery plants properly placed require 
scarcely any attention, and if well selected and 
properly planted, are neat summer and winter. Tho 
best effect can only be got ont of hardy plants 
by using tall-growing kinds, with conspicuous 
foliage and flowers, singly or in groups, and 
contrasting these with dwarfer growing things 
judiciously placed amongst them. These large 
plants should never be crowded together in beds 
or banks, but placed apart, so that the whole of 
them can be seen from the ground upwards. 
These shonld be placed first, and other planting 
should be made to contrast with and enhance 
the beauty of them. If properly managed, this 
will be found to induce health in the plants as 
well. If we plant a Hollyhock, for instance, 
and crowd it round with other tali plants, it will 
be a poor, miserable, starved thing; but give it 
a circle of 4 feet to itself, and surround it with 
plants only a few inches high, and it will, if 
properly fed, become a great stately thing 8 or 
0 feet high, and produce, besides a central spike, 
many side spikes nearly as large as ordinary 
Hollyhocks of the starved type. 

Another thing that should be attended to in 
planting is to contrast plants of different types— 
plants which produce spikes or pyramids with 
plants which grow round and bushy—large 
massive leaves of simple form with sword¬ 
shaped leaves or feathery leaves. This is very 
important, as by planting a number of tall 
things together with small leaves, an effect is 
produced which a majority of people will pro¬ 
nounce ragged and weedy; and if we plant 
these close to large-leaved subjects, the simple, 
telling forms of these are hidden and confused, 
and a weedy effect results also. In arranging 
plants a republic is bad; something must rule, 
and that effectively and without question, or 
confusion is the result. 

The only place in which a confused effect is 
admissible is a background to large flowers like 
big Poppies, Pansies, or well-grown Phloxes. 
The small leaves of shrubberies give that, the 



forms comparatively lost. To carry a good 
arrangement of plants out properly is not so 
difScult as it may seem at first sight. Place the 
large plants first, bearing in mind the time of 
blooming and habit of each, and leaving spaces 
for half-bardy plants, such as Dahlias and 
Gladioli, which must be planted in spring. Then 
place the dwarfer plants so that there will be a 
fair show of bloom over all the garden, with as 
few empty patches as possible. That refers 
only to those parts which are continually seen 
from the public road, or from the windows of 
the house. For these parts it is better to use a 
large proportion of evergreen plants, as those 
make the beds look furnished in winter. 

An important factor in the choosing of hardy 
plants for garden decoration is the amount of 
time and attention which can be given to them. 
Some gardeners must always be doing something, 
and kill their plants with constant attention; 
others have such a passion for tidiness that 
they must be continually scraping and scratch¬ 
ing their garden beds and borders and 
trimming and pinching their plants; a third 
class, either from choice or necessity, like their 
gardens to look well with the least possible 
amount of attention. A garden can be furnished 
with plants to suit any of these requirements. 

Flowering! Shrubs. 

To begin with the last class—those who have 
little time for gardening. Great use should be 
made of flowering shrubs and climbers. Many 
of these are almost unknown in villa gardens. 
Double flowering Cherries, Wistarias, Labur¬ 
nums, and Clematis are well known, as are Jas¬ 
mines and Passion Flower; but Spiraeas, Weige- 
las, Hydrangeas, Deutzias, Cistns, and Althaeas 
are not so often seen as they ought to be. A 
very pretty garden can be made of flowering 
shrubs alone, with turf and a few hardy plants 
to fill np. Such a garden is far better than well- 
stocked flower beds left to the tender mercies of 
a jobbing gardener. Where only a little atten¬ 
tion can be given, the greater portion of the gar¬ 
den might be planted in that fashion, and 
attention devoted to a few beds of choice flowers. 
There need be no lack of flowers in such a gar¬ 
den, but those plants shonld in a great measure 
be chosen as do best when planted in properly 
prepared places in the first instance, and then 
left to grow and spread for years. As the greater 
number of these plants are spring and early 
summer bloomers, a few bedding plants and an¬ 
nuals can be used to help the late blooms. Where 
there is more time available for gardening, a 
greater proportion of things which require 
moving or division annually or bienially should 
be used; and where a great deal of time can be 
given to gardening, a large proportion of florists’ 
flowers should be used, and a continual succession 
of bloom kept up. All three kinds of gardening 
can be carried out in the same garden in pro¬ 
portions suitable to the time at command. It is 
important in planting for successional bloom 
that there should be no rows, figures, or formal 
arrangements of any kind, so that if a gap occurs 
anywhere it can be immediately filled with any¬ 
thing that will fill the space. Rigidly straight 
lines or formal stiff lines should be abolished 
everywhere, and the kind of edge imitated that 
is found at the side of a natural footpath 
through fields and woods. It is surprising how 
well this looks when properly carried out, and it 
would be sure to supersede Box edgings and 
trimmed Turf verges everywhere if gardeners 
would only take courage and try it. 

The Flower Beds 

in a garden should be made as large as pos¬ 
sible. Hardy plants do not require the trim¬ 
ming and pinching that bedding plants do, so 
that there is no necessity for the beds being 
small. Many very beautiful hardy plants are 
only in bloom for a short period, and in small 
beds these cannot be hidden by others growing 
up later unless the beds are large. Every de¬ 
crease in the size of the beds necessitates the 
use of plants having a longer period of bloom, 
until the 3 feet and 6 feet beds usually 
seen in villa gardens are suitable only for 
bedding plants. A long bed, 18 feet to 20 


feet wide, can be kept bright from March to 
November, and will, several times during that 
period, present a more splendid display of 
flowers than any arrangement of bedding plants, 
but every decrease of size under that dimension 
renders the presentation of a continuous bloom 
more difficult. Any bed of hardy flowers bloom¬ 
ing at various seasons cannot present the same 
actual area of bloom that a bed of bedding 
plants can, but many herbaceous plants carry 
their flowers high, in spikes, bunches, or singly, 
and these are seen from the side, not from above, 
and grouping together makes the bed look full 
of bloom while the actual blooming plants may 
he yards apart. Hardy plants lend themselves 
readily to the decoration of all soils and posi¬ 
tions. One difficulty with bedding in small 
gardens is that an arrangement of beds in which 
the two sides correspond is often rendered a 
failure because one side is in sun and the other 
in shade, and if planted alike they never grow 
alike. But with 

Picturesque Gardening!, 
and hardy plants, an irregular or lop-sided ar¬ 
rangement looks best, and each station can be 
filled with suitable plants, and all succeed with¬ 
out anything looking out of place. I have 
hitherto had doubts whether a little plot of some 
20 feet or 30 feet square in front of a formal 
villa of the builder’s type could be picturesquely 
treated; but this summer I have seen so many 
instances in which this has been successfully 
accomplished, that I can say with confidence— 
Try it. Do away with the lines of Golden Feather 
and Lobelia, and plant things which will hide 
the outlines here and there by trailing over the 
turf, l'lant Everlasting Peas in light soil, 
or Sweet Peas, Canary Creeper, or climb¬ 
ing Roses in heavy soils to cover the fences. 
Do not train these stiffly, but allow them 
to sprawl about as they like so long as they 
don't choke other things. Edge the walks with 
bands of rockery covered with evergreen rock 
plants, mixed with a few bulbs in pockets. Make 
a rustic arch over the entrance walk, and cover 
it with Clematis or climbing Roses. Hide the 
stiff outlines of the house with pretty climbing 
shrubs. Put almost anything you like in the 
centre bed, and the thing is done, a tiny garden 
is made in place of a piece of Berlin wool work, 
with vegetation in the place of worsted. For 
villa gardens of any size the best plan would be 
to make a lawn of a good size in the centre, 
surrounded on three sides with shrubbery, and 
make a continuous slightly winding walk close 
to that, leaving room for broad and irregular 
borders of flowers between the walk and shrubs. 
Make one good large bed for choice things near 
the house, so that they can be seen and enjoyed 
from the windows of the most frequented rooms. 
Make another large bed at the further edge of 
the lawn, and smaller beds and rockeries for 
things requiring special soils and for isolated 
plants about the edges of the lawn. This ar¬ 
rangement will leave an open lawn in the centre 
of the garden, and will, if properly planted, 
insure the best possible effect being got ont of 
the flowers. The bed near the house should bo 
filled with plants which are ornamental at all 
stages of their growth, with those which are 
evergreen, and with those which spring up 
quickly and die dowD, or can be cut down as 
soon as the bloom is over. The beds and 
borders far from the house can be filled with 
plants which have no particular beauty of leaf. 
All flower beds should be as large as possible, 
except those which are to be filled with single 
plants, or with plants of small stature. The 
plants along the sides of the continuous walk 
should be arranged in groups varying as much 
as possible, so that to the casual visitor there 
may be always the possibility of some new 
flower, or some new grouping, from one end of 
the walk to the other. Nothing can be worse 
than any planting of the same things all round 
the garden. The whole is seen in a moment, 
and quickly becomes tiresome. Such an ar¬ 
rangement is childish, uninventive, aDd unin¬ 
teresting. In continnons borders in front of 
shrubs any planting in lines is peculiarly objec¬ 
tionable the planting in these borders should 




356 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 13, 1883. 


be in groups of one, two, or three kinds oE 
plants, and any particular grouping should not 
be repeated a number of times, and especially 
not at regular intervals. 

It is best in these borders not to attempt a 
continuous bloom, but rather to let the eye pass 
over groups of plants out of (lower to others in 
fall beauty; a group of white Lilies, for instance, 
might have a group of Tritomas on one side and 
a group of Dahlias on the other. In these borders 
do not place small plants in twos and threes, but 
in groups of two or three dozens, so that there 
may be a crowd of Daffodils, a sheet of Pansies, 
or a mass of Stocks or Balsams in one or two 
places. By this means we get all that is good in 
the bedding system, namely, the massing of the 
plants, and avoid all that is bad in it, namely, 
the sameness, the formality, the unnatural 
appearance, and the patterns. Where a garden 
is being laid out for hardy plants, it should be 
borne in mind that a rich, deep loam, which does 
not readily dry up in hot, dry weather, is the best 
soil for the majority of plants, so that to raise the 
(lower beds into mounds, unless the soil is water¬ 
logged and marshy, is simply to ensure failure. 
Beds may be slightly raised for rock plants and 
Tea roses, but to raise all the shrubberies and 
beds into mounds is one of the worst things ever 
introduced into gardening. All flower beds, with 
the above exceptions, should be as level as possi¬ 
ble. They can then be easily soaked when dry, 
and, with proper cultivation, all will go well; so 
important is this matter, that I find a variation in 
height of even i inches makes all the difference 
between success and failure with the same plants 
receiving otherwise the same treatment. Those 
in the raised beds require constant attention, and 
are indifferent with that, while those in the level 
beds are scarcely aDy trouble. 

Plants for a Sunny Bed of Rich Soil and 
in a Good Position. 

Tall perennials. — Pillar Roses, Tritomas, 
Lilium testaceum, Lilium tigrinum, Phlox decus- 
sata, and P. suffruticosa in variety, perennial 
Sunflower, double and single Rocket, Harpalium 
rigidum. 

Perennials of medium height. — Dictamnus 
Fraxinella, Polemonium ccernleum, Geum cocci- 
neum plenum, Aquilegia vulgaris in variety, 
Mimulusin variety, GSnotheraFraseri.Pentstemon 
barbatus, P. speciosus, Spinea filipendula flore- 
pleno, Iris sibirica, Iris orientalis, florists’ 
Pentstemons (not quite hardy). 

Drearfplants. —Polyanthuses, Gentians acaulis, 
Myosotis semperflorens, Pansies, Bulbs, Daffodils 
in variety, Narcissus poeticus, double and single, 
Jonquils, Scilla sibirica, florists’ Gladioli. 

Half - hardy annuals. — Stocks, Balsams, 
Asters, and Zinnias. 

Hardy annuals .—Sweet Peas, Leptosiphon in 
variety, Annual Lupines, crimson Flax. 

Plants for a Sunny Bed of Light, Rich 
Loam. 

Tall perennials. — Hollyhocks, Delphiniums. 
Campanula persicifolia (single and double). 
Lilium canadense, L. chalcedonicum, Agapan- 
thus in variety, Alstrcemeria in variety. 

Perennials of medium height .—Aquilegia 
chrysantha, A. Kermisina, A. Skinneri, A. cana¬ 
densis, Carnations in great variety, Wallflowers, 
early flowering Chrysanthemums, Lychnis 
Haageana, Matricaria inodorum fl.-pl„ Gaillardia 
grandiflora, (Enothera macrocarpa, (E. speciosa, 
Papaver nudicaule, Statice incana, S. latifolia, 
Lilium Thunbergianum, Verbena venosa. 

Dwarf perennials .—Pinks (border and Bhow), 
Iris olbiensis, I. pumila, Silene Schaftse, Phlox 
setacea in variety, double Daisies, Achillea 
Clavennse, A. tomentosa, A. umbellata, Alyssum 
saxatile compaction, Arabia albida variegata, 
Aubrietia in variety, Oxalis floribunda rosea and 
alba, Calandrinia umbellata, Erodium Manescavi, 
Onosma taurica, Saxifraga Wallacei. 

Bulbs and tubers. —Dahlias, English and 
Spanish Iris, Gladiolus ramosus, Colvillei, and 
nanus, Sisyrinchiums, Scilla peruviana. Marvel 
of Peru, early, parrot, and show Tulips. 

Half-hardy annuals .—Indian Pinks, Dianthus 
Heddewiggi, Phlox Drummondi, Arctotis brevis- 
capa, Gazania splendens, Tagetes pumila, French 
Marigolds. 

Hardy annuals .—Coreopsis in variety, annual 
Chrysanthemums (single and double), Saponaria 
calabrica, Kartonia aur-ea, dwarf Tropseolums, 


Viscaria in variety, Oxalis rosea, Nemophila 
insignia. 

Plants for Groups in Front of Shrubs in 
Sunny Places. 

Perennials —Verbascum Chaixi, V. pliamicia- 
num, Delpliiniumelatum, Achillea ptarmica fl -pi., 
Valerian veratrum in variety, Bearded Iris in 
variety, Day Lilies in variety. Orange Lily, Poppies, 
Lychnis dioica fl.-pl., L. chalcedonica fl.-pl., 
Echinacea intermedia, Galega officinalis, Acan¬ 
thus in variety, Asphodelus lutens, Aconitum 
Napellus bieolor, Aster Amellus and bessarabicus, 
Anthericnm liliago, A. liliastrum, lludbeckia 
Newmani, Centanrea babylonica, Campanula 
grandis, C. latifolia, Eryngium amethystinum, 
Echinops Ritro, Orobus vernus, Preonies in 
variety, perennial Sunflowers, Pentstemon Jef- 
freyanus, Scabiosa caucasica connata, English 
and Spanish Iris in light, rich soils, Crown Im¬ 
perials in light soil, Antirrhinums and Wall¬ 
flowers also in light soil, with a little lime or 
old mortar added. 

Far slightly shaded borders .—Anemone japo- 
nica, both the ordinary red, the large flowered 
Honorine Jobert and the new pink hybrida, 
Pyrethrum roseum in variety, single and 
double; Pyrethrum uliginosum, Trollus in variety 
in rich soil. In the same Ranunculus amplexi- 
caulis and R. aconitifolius fl.pl.. Spiraea venusta 
and S. filipendula fl. pi. In lighter but moist soil 
S. palmata. These can be interspersed with 
Pansies, Anemones, Tulips, Daffodils, Primroses, 
alpine Auriculas, and many other plants and 
bulbs, besides groups of florists’ flowers, Phloxes, 
Dahlias, Antirrhinums, Carnations, Pinks, Sec., as 
suits taste and convenience. Many 

Annuals and biennials suit in front of shrubs, 
such as : (Biennials) Poppies, Canterbury Bells, 
Campanula pyramidalis, Sweet Williams and 
French Honeysuckles; (Annuals) Malope grandi¬ 
flora, Godetias, Clarkias, Gilias, Schizanthus, and 
Salpiglossis. Large old Geranium plants cut 
back in autumn, and kept just growing and no 
more in winter, make a fine display in a light 
soil if planted ont in summer, blooming far more 
freely than young plants. All the usual bedding 
stuff can be planted in patches in front of the 
shrubs to follow spring bulbs, and will look far 
better there than close to the house, where they 
are ont of flower just at the most flowering season 
of the year. 

Plants Requiring Little Attention 
After Planting. 

Tall plants for sunny places .—Tritoma uvaria, 
Lychnis chaicedonica fl-pl., L. dioica fl-pl„ 
Michaelmas Daisies in variety, Alstroemerias, 
Antirrhinums, perennial Cornflower, Orange 
Lilies in variety. 

For more shady places .—Day Lilies in variety, 
Bearded Iris in variety, many Lilies if planted 
in proper soil. Golden Yarrow, Aquilegia 
vulgaris, A. chrysantha, Bearded Iris of many 
kinds, Spiraras of many kinds, Globe flowers in 
rich moist soil, Ranunculus amplexicaulis, R. 
aconitifolius fl-pl., and Trollius in variety in the 
same, Anemone japonica in turfy loam. 

In shady places. —Ferns, Solomon’s Seal, and 
Spinea japonica. 

Dtearfer plants in sunny jdaces. — Saxi- 
fragas, Kedums, and Sempervivums of many 
kinds, Iberis in variety, Gentians acaulis, Scilla 
sibirica, S. campanulata, S. peruviana, Crown 
Imperials, Corydalis lutea. Narcissi of many 
kinds, common Pinks. 

For half-shady places. —Hepaticas, Winter 
Aconites, Snowdrops, Adonis vernalis, Christmas 
Roses, Anemones of many kinds. 

Flowering shrubs .—Spartium junceum. Double 
Furze, Amygdalus nana, Calycanthus floridus, 
Cerasus japonica multiplex and its white variety, 
Chimonanthus fragrans, Cydonia japonica, both 
white, rose and blood-red varieties, Cytisus 
albus, C. purpureus, Daphnes in variety, Deutzia 
crenata fl-pl., D. gracilis, Forsythia viridissima, 
Fuchsias several kinds, Hibiscus syriacus in 
variety, Hydrangea panioulata, Jasminum fruti- 
cans, Lonicera tatarica, white and red, Phila- 
delphns laxus grandiflorus and P speciosus 
floribundus, Ribes (flowering Currant) several 
kinds, Spiraea many species, Tecoma speciosa, 
Syringa (Lilac) many kinds. Viburnum opulus 
(Guelder Rose), V. plicatum. 

Flowering climbing shrubs .—Atragene alpina, 
Clematis in variety, jasmine, white and yellow, 
and winter-flowering Honeysuckles many 


varieties, Psssiflora oairulea, Tecoma radicans 
major, Wistaria sinensis. J. D. 


CULTURE OF SNAPDRAGONS 

(ANTIRRHINUMS). 

Antirrhinums may either be grown as annuals 
or biennials. As annuals, the seed should be 
sown early in February in pots or pans filled 
with light soil, consisting ot loam, leaf-mould, 
and plenty of sharp silver sand to keep the 
whole open. Fill the pots or pans half full of 
crocks broken rather small, cover them over 
with some rough material, and then fill up with 
the soil, leaving room to cover the seeds and to 
hold sullicient water to keep the soil moist. (Sow 
thinly, cover with some fine mould, and then 
water with a pot furnished with a fine rose. If 
placed in a warm house or pit, the seeds will 
soon germinate. As soon as the young seedlings 
are large enough to handle, prick them out 1 
inch apart in pots or boxes, using light soil such 
as that just named. Place the pots in a house 
or pit in which there is a temperature of 60° to 
Eo° until they make plenty of roots and are 
growing freely, when they will do best in a cool 
pit for a time where they will get hardened off. 
Some time in April prepare a bed of light soil 
in some sheltered corner of the garden or nur¬ 
sery ground, and in that plant the young plants 
6 inches apart; then soak well with water and 
shade for a few days until they get established, 
when they will require but little attention, 
beyond being watered on dry days, until they 
are planted ont permanently in the end of May 
or the two first weeks in June. If well attended 
to after being planted ont, they will commence 
flowering early in August, and will continue 
to yield an abundance of bloom nnfil frost cuts 
them off. 

Where choice named varieties are grown, or if 
any of the seedlings are thought to be worth 
preserving, that maybe done by using the young 
side shoots as cuttings. They may be taken off 
any time in autumn. Prepare some light soil as 
before, and fill the potsor boxes as recommended 
for seed. Pot the cuttings, which may either be 
taken off with a heel or cut below a joint, closely, 
firming then well in; then place them in a cold pit 
in which they can be wintered, and early in the 
spring they will be ready to pot off singly in 
small pots, or they may be pricked ont under 
handlights in a piece of prepared ground in a 
sheltered place. There they may remain till 
they get well established, when they may be 
planted ont permanently in Mayor early in June. 
After being planted out they will soon commence 
to flower, and will continue in bloom until late 
in the autumn. 

Some of the best spikes of flower should be 
kept for seed, which may be saved either in dis¬ 
tinct colours or mixed, as may be desired. When 
the seed is ripe cut the spikes and lay them upon 
sheets of paper to dry; when perfectly dry rub 
the pods between the hands, clean the seedB and 
pnt them into small glass bottles, and cork the 
bottles closely. They may be kept for a number 
of years, using a few for sowing as may be re¬ 
quired. The following are a few of the best 
varieties, viz., Album perfectnm, Contrast, 
Dubois, Fascination, Glory, Kate Wallace, 
Pleasing, Sulphur Queen, Snowball, Talma, Wil¬ 
liam Johnson, and White Swan. C. 


Pansies in hot, dry soils.— Perhaps an 
experience 1 had with Pansies in a hot, dry soil 
on gravel may be of service to others who wish to 
extend the usefulness of these plants. I planted 
some self-sown Pansies, the third generation from 
a packet of seed saved from show flowers, in a 
hot, dry border in front of perpetual Carnations, 
just to fill up until the Carnations came into 
bloom. The soil was very fine in texture and 
dried very quickly; before planting it was mixed 
with about one-third of powdery leaf-mould. 
The carnations died, owing to a close, damp, and 
frosty spring, and the Pansies were allowed to 
remain through the season. They not only 
flowered continously, but developed a round, 
bushy habit, short-jointed, with plenty of bright 
foliage, and the flowers were bome on short 
stalks, which made them nseless for cutting, the 
lower petal being just clear of the foliage. They 
were dreadful moDgrels of indistinct colours, but 
they taught me a lesson as to the possibility of 
breeding a strain of Pansies suitable for hot soils. 
The summer they flowered through was a fair 



Oct. 13, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


357 


average one, neither excessively hot nor very 
cool. The plants were kept rather dry, and only 
watered after dark when the ground had oooled 
down. There is no doubt that seeds can pro¬ 
duce plants which adapt themselves to circum¬ 
stances better than cuttings or divisions of the 
root. I have found seeds produce healthy plants 
in instances where purchased plants refused to 
grow under the same conditions. Plants suddenly 
moved from a cool, moist loam to a soil which in 
a hot summer's day becomes literally scalding, 
could scarcely be expected to do well at once, but 
seeds of the same plants reared in the soil adapted 
themselves to it.—J. D. 

Tagetes slgnata pumlla— There is no 
plant with which I am acquainted that can com¬ 
pete |with this for continuous flowering, espe¬ 
cially in autumn. Even now, although somewhat 
overgrown, it is the only conspicuous bedding 
plant we have out of manyfthousands, the rains 
haring washed into a black mass all the Pelar¬ 
gonium blooms. Taking the average of seasons 
into account, this Tagetes is the only good sub¬ 
stitute we have for Calceolarias. In a dry 
season, and in rather a poor soil, it will bloom 
continuously until frost cuts it down, and during 
the whole time it is a mass of colour second to 
none in the whole list of bedders. I say this 
without wishing in any way to disparage the 
yellow Calceolaria. But some may say the 
Tagetes is an unruly plant; under certain cir¬ 
cumstances I admit that it is, but it need 
not be so if in the first place care is taken in 
selecting the seed from the dwarfest growing 
plants, and to plant it in a soil rather poor than 
rich. A rich soil promotes a too vigorous growth, 
and as a rule it is planted much too thick; 6 in. 
apart is near enough. When thicker, the plants 
crowd each other, and get higher than they 
would be if the side branches had had room to 
grow laterally instead of pushing the leading 
shoots upright. The seed should be sown about 
the middle of April, thinly, in pans or boxes, and 
placed in a cool house, where it willjccmeon fast 
enough to make good plants by bedding-out time. 
All that they want is hardening off with the 
other stock, and from the pans or boxes they may 
be transferred to wherever they are wanted in the 
flower beds or borders. The Tagetes may be used 
in various ways for decorating the flower garden. 
It is best adapted for massing in beds by 
itself; but it may be used advantageously in lines 
with other plants of a suitable height, and 
where masses of late autumn flowers are required 
that will withstand rain, the Tagetes is the 
proper plant to employ. To secure a good dwarf 
strain it is necessary to be careful in selecting 
the seed. Secure it from the most compactly 
grown plants. We do not collect our seed until 
the middle of October, and then we are sure of 
getting it thoroughly ripe—an important point 
if the bulk of it is expected to germinate when 
sown.—J. C. C. 

Paris Daisies In autumn.— Few flower¬ 
ing plants are more constantly attractive than 
the various forms of Paris Daisies, as under any¬ 
thing like fair treatment they bloom steadily on 
throughout the year. In late autumn their 
merits are very conspicuous, as they not only 
resist with impunity the drenching rains which 
mark that season and which destroy the beauty 
of bo many tender bedding subjects, but they 
bear without injury a considerable amount of 
frost, and when grown in an open position they 
at that time present almost as gay an appearance 
as in the middle of summer. This capacity for 
enduring an excessive rainfall renders Paris 
Daisies extremely valuable for open air decora¬ 
tion, and as they thrive in the poorest of soils, 
and, curiously enough, bear with equal indif¬ 
ference strong heat and prolonged drought, 
thriving also in town gardens, it may truly be 
said of them that they are indispensable to every 
garden, and I may add to every greenhouse.—C. 

Aconltum Japonlourn. —Among autumn¬ 
flowering perennials it cannot be said that those 
producing blue flowers are abundant, and it 
would be difficult to point to any whose blooms 
are of a richer blue than those of this Aconite, 
which comes into bloom very late in the season, 
but remains in good condition until the end of 
October or even later. The flowers when cut 
keep well in water; consequently they are useful 
for mixing with other flowers in glasses or vases. 
As its name implies, it js a native of Japan, but 
it is perfectly hardy, ani^ll gucceed-itl My 
.description Of soil; prob^ly,<jo>svifoes 


best in that of a light or of even a poor character. 
It is easily increased by division or by seeds, 
which it produces freely; and if thiB is sown as 
soon as it is ripe, or in a seed-pan placed in a 
frame, or on a slight hotbed in spring, the pro¬ 
duce will flower freely during the autumn of the 
second year.—P. G. 


A BED OF TIGER LILIES. 

In visiting the very interesting and pretty 
gardens at Moulton Grange, we were charmed 
to see a bed of Tiger Lilies in the position we 
have often advocated for them, that is, singly on 
a piece of quiet Grass with no other flowers near 
to mar their beauty. The bod was a large, oval 
one, and the colour of the finely grown Lilies 
was brilliant and effective seen through the trees 
and glades. In point of colour alone, indeed, 
nothing could be better; the plants were about 
6 feet high, and told well in the garden land¬ 
scape, while the mass of bloom was profuse. The 
plants had greatly the advantage in habit and 
form over the usual dwarf type. We are now 



Bed of Tiger Lilies. 


making a comparison in point of colour, which 
it is claimed is the strong one in the case of 
bedding plants, and endeavouring to show that 
many hardy flowers of the highest beauty have 
as good qualities as regards colour if we take 
the same painB with them. Colour on a 6-feet 
plant must in all ordinarily varied gardens be 
more effective than on a plant 6 inches or 12 
inches high. But this is putting the thing in the 
lowest way, perhaps, for after all flowers will be 
judged of for other reasons, and however strict 
our judgment or rigid our selection, the stronger 
and finer varieties of the Tiger Lily must 
find a place with us. The bed, it may be 
remarked, was within a few yards of a walk, 
and on one of those little bits of turf which occur 
by most shrubberies, so that it could be easily 
examined near at hand. It is, perhaps, better so 
placed, because other plants of varying height 
and character were not brought near to confuse 
or weary the eye. We are particular in pointing 
this out, because in the case of a very important 
family of plants it is one of the simplest and 
best ways to grow it alone in the spot where it 
growB and looks best. There, in a large circular 
or oval bed, it can get exactly the culture good 
for it; and should the plant become tired of the 
spot, removing it to another home and replacing 
it with some plant of a wholly different charac¬ 
ter is easy and simple. 

Here, perhaps, is the best place to say how 
much pleasure we derived by a road leading to 
Mr. Netherccte's house in which he had very 
thoughtfully and successfully planted a great 
variety of hardy trees. A common hedgerow 
and road bank were planted with such a variety 
of trees as one expects to find only in the 
choicest pleasure garden, and many of them 
having grown well and into good specimens, the 
effect was very good. Oddly, as it may seem, 
the position suited some of the things better 


than if placed in the ordinary shrubbery. The 
thin line was not crowded, nor likely to be, 
and the individuals were not repeated to a weari¬ 
some extent. It was pleasant to pass along the 
road reviewing, as it wore, the trees, and we 
trust recent winters have not made this bold and 
successful experiment less successful so far as 
the trees not quite hardy are concerned. 


10-117.— Christmas Roses. —All that is 
required in order to succeed well with them is 
to plant in deeply stirred, well enriched soil, and 
leave them alone, when they will increase in 
vigour and floriferousness from year to year, 
needing only a top-dressing of rotten manure 
every autumn. They like partial shade and 
shelter from easterly winds, doing well amongst 
fruit trees. To have the blooms pure, large, and 
early, a handlight should be placed over the 
plant as soon as the buds apDear, giving air night 
and day in mild weather.—J. 0. B. 

10401.— Pruning Clematis Jaokmannl. 
—You are rightly informed as to the pruning of 
this. It should be hard cut back every spring, 
as then the growth made is far stronger, an estab¬ 
lished plant making shoots some 10 or 15 feet 
long in the course of the snmmer. The proper 
way is to prune back to within two eyes of the 
base of the wood made the preceding year ; but 
old neglected specimens may be cut in to within 
2 feet of the soil.—J. C. B. 

10405.— Wallflowers. —They must be left 
as they are. Cutting them would spoil them, and 
by sinking them deeper in the soil they would be 
rendered liable to canker or rot, especially where 
the soil is naturally cold. Your plants have pro¬ 
bably been too crowded ; give them more room 
another year from the time they come up.—J. 
C. B. 

10417.—Christmas Hoses — I have four very line 
large bunches of the above, which flower profusely In 
their season, requiring no care anil no special attention 
as to soil—being in the centre of beds where summer 
flowers are planted.—MOVCSSILITK. 

10405.—Wallflowers.—These must not be cut down 
now. The plants that ore drawn up nnd look straggly 
should he taken up and replanted deeper in the ground. 
- J. D. E. 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a (lartten, Diary— October 15 
to October 20. 

Totting Lilium speciosum (lanclfolium) album and 
rubrum in peat and sand, late Stocks for winter flower¬ 
ing, and Eclieveriaa from borders; planting bulbs in 
flower beds, Brier stocks for budding, and Box for 
edgings ; removing Centaureas from flower garden and 
plunging them In a cold frame; taking up Endive and 
putting it where it can be protected ; nailing Currants 
and Gooseberries on walls; putting Chrysanthemums 
into conservatory and all Strawbemes in pots under 
cover; gathering all Scarlet Runners which are fit for 
use; taking up CsrTote nnd Beetroot; thinning some of 
tho inside shoots from Nut trees ; hoeing among young 
strawberry plants; cleaning Asparagus beds. Sowing 
Nemophila and Saponnrin in pots; planting WeUing- 
tonian, standard Roses, Hollies, Wallflowers, Silenes, 
and Tulips, also planting Lettuces under the protection 
of a hedge ; washing Orange trees ; sweeping centres of 
walks to keep leaves from being trodden in the gravel. 
Potting Forget-me-nots for flowering in pots; planting 
Feverfew, also Aubrietlas, Arabia, Alysaum, and Panslea 
in beds; examining the roots of Cherry trees, giving 
them some new soil; getting all Pelargoniums from 
frames, Ac., into house; placing old roots of Salvia 
patens in boxes, and putting them under stage in back 
>lt for cutting in spring; sending in Raspberries, also 
llarle Louise Pears, and gathering Josephine de Alalines 
and Clou Morcean ; top-dressing Peachhousc border with 
half-a bag of bones, Bhort manure, and loam ; earthing- 
up July-sown Cabbage. Potting layered Carnations, also 
Lily of the Valley for forcing; putting long straw over 
Laburnums in pots for forcing, and plunging Rhododen¬ 
drons for the same purpose in Btraw ; taking up Bath Cos 
lettuces and putting them uuder protection ; protecting 
Cauliflower heads by tying tho leaves over them ; begin¬ 
ning to nail Morello Cherries; putting straw round 
Violet frames ; top dressing early Vines with good loam, 
bones, sand, and horse-droppings; turning manure for 
Seakalo forcing ; gathering Easter BeurrS Pears. Plant- 
ing Nemophila, Limnanthes, and Silene In flower-beds; 
manuring Roses; earthing-up Celery for the lost time 
when the weather is dry. 

Glasshouses. 

Greenhouse Palms. 

Where a large or medium-sized cool conserva¬ 
tory exists there are no better plants for 
permanent use than cool kinds of Palms, such as 
the Kentias, Chamserops, and Coryphas; the 
first-named of the above in particular are 
especially deserving of notice. K. BelmoreaDa 
and K. australis are handsome in all their stages 
of growth either in a small state or when more 
fully developed, their beautifully curved leaves 
being at all times effect Ive, At no time are i h' y 

l JRR A W A-rHAMP AlfiN 














358 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 13, 1883. 


more useful than through the late autumn and 
winter, when, associated with Chrysanthemums, 
Camellias, and such other flowering plants as 
may be in bloom, they produce a beautiful effect 
which few other forms are capable of. Cordyline 
australis, Dasylirions, variegated Yuccas, and 
Aralias, which are now often employed for 
standing out-of-doors on terraces, or for grouping 
amongst other things that give a tropical effect 
during the summer season, and for conservatory 
use in winter, should be taken in before cold 
nights come on, for although these things are 
not particularly tender, still they are better out 
of the reach of frost, and they can usually be 
grouped amongst flowering and other plants in 
the conservatory at this season. 

Bouvardias. 

The present treatment of these will require to 
be regulated by the time the flowers are required. 
So manageable are they, that little difficulty is 
experienced in getting them into bloom whenever 
wanted. As a matter of course, the strongest 
plants, such as grown from cut-back stools 
which bloomed last year, will be the furthest 
advanced in growth and in the best condition 
for blooming first; they will bear as much heat 
as most things, and, where the plants are really 
strong, will furnish through the winter greater 
quantities of flowers in succession when sub¬ 
mitted to a brisk heat than where treated to an 
intermediate temperature. Plants like these, in 
common with others that make some growth 
through the winter, will be benefited by the 
application of manure water at short intervals j 
not only will it assist the development of the 
first flowers, but also those which come later 
upon the after growth. A portion of the stock 
of Poinsettias, Plumbagos, and Eranthemums 
will now need removal to the forcing pit where a 
structure of this description is at command, and 
where not available room must be made in a 
warm greenhouse, as a moderate heat is 
necessary to bring them in at the time required, 
as also to enable such plants as the Poinsettias 
to attain the full size which in many places is 
required. Although they will bloom with less 
heat than is usually present in a general stove, 
Btill they are never so fine under the cooler 
treatment. See that the whole stock of all these 
plants is perfectly free from insect pests of all 
kinds, for, with plants like these, that it is 
necessary to keep in warm quarters, insects, if 
present, increase apace ; they also interfere with 
the flowering, and entail no end of labour to keep 
them down. In addition to the above, a portion 
of any others grown to flower during the winter 
should likewise be placed under the conditions 
of heat that will bring them on. 

Climbers. 

Any of the roof climbers that were shortened 
back after flowering may now receive further 
reduction to admit more light to the permanent 
plants beneath them. This will assist in pre¬ 
paring them for the annual pruning by-and 
bye; and as there is now no fear of them starting 
into active growth if they are not treated too 
freely at the root, the present pruning may with 
safety be somewhat, severe. These remarks 
apply principally to climbers that flower on the 
young growths made next season. Stephanotises 
and others that produce their finest flowers on 
one-year-old wood should only have the weakest 
growths removed at present, and the plants 
should be kept dry at the roots, and the re¬ 
maining growths must be kept close to the light 
to get them thoroughly matured. 


Gardenias. 

The summer ripened Gardenias should now be 
fast making up their flower-buds, and should be 
gradually brought under warmer treatment. Any 
renewed growths must be removed with the 
finger and thumb, otherwise they will draw the 
strength of the plants from forming their flowers, 
and the latter will drop in consequence. 

Camellias. 


One of the most annoying things in a green¬ 
house during winter is the dropping of Camellia 
buds; to prevent this it will be necessary to 
see that these plants are kept regularly supplied 
with moisture at the roots, and that they are 
not submitted for any lengthened period to a 
dry atmosphere. A little clear soot water should 
be given them at every alternate watering, and 
care should be taken at this seasoi ' 
that these and ^fl ott>e^ p'ai 


iken at ttus season of t 
all other plants liniji 


of the year 
loors are 


watered with tepid water only. It often happens, 
unless the house is well aired, that plants that 
have stood outside during the summer commence 
to make fresh growth after being a short time 
under glass. Where this occurs, they should bo 
placed in a good position in the house, but 
growth should be checked as much as possible. 

It will now be necessary to use more than 
ordinary caution in giving water to the roots of 
choice hard-wooded plants, as nothing is easier 
than injuring roots with excessive moisture at 
this season. Avoid the too common practice of 
surface-dressing valuable plants at the com¬ 
mencement of winter, as the surfacing material 
generally remains moist when the ball of earth 
beneath is dry. The pots should be kept perfectly 
free from conferva, as this, when allowed to 
remain long on the pots, renders the atmosphere 
of the house unhealthy, and tends to sour the 
soil round the roots of the plants. 

The latest batches of bulbs should now be 
potted, including Ixias, Sparaxis,andthe spring- 
flowering Tritonias. These latter should now be 
plunged in ashes of Cocoanut fibre close to the 
glass in a cold frame, there to remain through 
the winter, watering them carefully until the 
plants are in active growth, and ventilating 
very freely whenever the thermometer stands 
above the freezing point. 

Flower Garden. 

Herbaceous Borders. 

I’yrethrum uliginosum, many varieties of 
Asters, the Japanese Anemones, and Geumsare 
still flowering most profusely, as are also Stocks, 
Sweet Teas, and several other kinds of late-sown 
annuals, the whole rendering the mixed borders 
at present the centre of interest as regards the 
flower garden. The placing of neat stakes to the 
tall growers, and an occasional removal of de¬ 
caying flowers and leaves, is needed, also the 
filling in of any vacant spots by dividing plants 
that have done flowering, or else planting in 
their stead bulbs or annuals for spring flowering. 
Respecting the division and increase of plants 
of this class, a word of caution may be of service, 
and that is, that preference be given to growing 
good varieties in duplicate rather than a large 
collection in the shape of single plants—a 
practice which must necessarily include some 
worthless kinds. This unfortunately is an error 
into which many fall, and hence the application 
by some of the term “ weediness ” to this class 
of plants generally. 

Hardy Fernery and Rockery. 

Till the leaves are all off the trees, it will be 
impossible to be as neat as might be wished; 
but the removal of weeds and dead fronds will 
help considerably in this direction. Now is the 
time to plant in the bare and most conspicuous 
spots amongst the Ferns spring flowering bulbs, 
the most appropriate kinds being Snowdrops, 
wild Hyacinths, and Daffodils, all of which 
flower before the new fronds make much growth, 
as also do Primroses, Cowslips, and the wild 
wood Anemones; by means of these simple 
flowers charming effects can be produced with¬ 
out the least interference with or detriment to 
the Ferns. Keep the rockery free from weeds ; 
only those who know plants well should be 
trusted to weed here, otherwise plants may be 
pulled up instead of weeds. Most kinds may 
now be propagated readily by division, and 
the slips at once planted in the places intended 
for them ; a bit of light vegetable soil will aid 
the rooting process, and they must be guarded 
from slugs by sooting or dusting them over with 
dry wood ashes, and from being pulled up by 
birds by pressing them firmly into the soil. A 
good edging plant for walks in the rockery 
garden is Sedum glaucum, planted edging tile 
fashion—that is, on a slightly raised and rounded 
ledge, and about 4 inches in width. It is hardly 
necessary to add that the walks in such a garden 
should not be of any set design, pattern, or 
width, but in and out, narrow or wide, as best 
suits the size of the structure. 

Bedding Plants. 

Tender kinds intended to be saved should now 
be lifted ; all the tricolor Pelargoniums, the 
choicer Buccnlents, and Borne few Abutilons are 
the only plants that at present we shall lift for 
potting, but the tender kinds that are over, 
and of which stock pots of cuttings have been 
put in, are gradually giving place to other plants 
for winter effect. As regards sub-tropicals, the 


more valuable should be housed at once; the 
annual section may, of course, be left till frost 
destroys them. Cannas, too, may be left till 
after the first severe frost, as it does not injure 
the roots. 

General Work. 

See that nothing has been forgotten to be 
propagated, and house all that would be injured 
by frest. Cuttings of variegated Thyme, 
Gnaphalium lanatum, Violas, and Calceolarias 
should at once be put in; cold pits do best for 
all these, also for the half-hardy varieties of 
Echeverias, Kleinias, and Sempervivums. Mow 
the lawn, and cut grass verges and edgings of 
walks the last time for the season, and keep 
down worm casts by frequent rolling with a 
wooden roller. Leaf sweeping, rolling, and 
weeding of walks must also now have a large 
share of attention. 

Fruit. 

Fruit gathering will soon be at an end, and 
the fruit room will require careful management 
till all the fruit has undergone the “ sweating ” 
process, which invariably takes place during the 
first week or two after storing. Keep the venti¬ 
lators open night and day (unless the weather is 
excessively wet), and as soon as the fruit seems 
dry, and has got thoroughly inured to the 
temperature of the room, then ventilate only for 
about a couple of hours every fine day, and close 
up during wet, fog, and frost. The fruit should 
he stored as thinly as space will allow, both to 
insure its better keeping and to permit its being 
examined for the purpose of removing any that 
have begun to decay. Any specimens that it is 
desired to keep for exhibition or other special 
purposes should, when thoroughly dry, be 
wrapped up separately in tissue paper, and 
placed in drawers or boxes, with the view of 
excluding atmospheric influences as much as 
possible. The weather is now most favourable 
for planting, root-pruning, and top-dressing. 

Vegetables. 

Cucumbers. 

If any of the pits usually devoted to the 
growth of winter or spring fruit are still occupied 
with Melons, lose no time in getting the latter 
removed, as Melons after this late period are of 
little value, and the loss of a fortnight in getting 
weak Cucumbers started often affects them until 
after the turn of the year. Having so often 
directed attention to the importance of cleanli¬ 
ness, it is hardly again necessary to remind the 
young beginner that a pure atmosphere cannot 
be maintained where it is neglected, and without 
this and an abundance of light, also secured by 
keeping the glass clean, it is useless to expect 
good fruit from Christmas up to the end of 
March. If the pot system is adopted let the 
pots be well drained, and fill them quite up to 
the level of the rim with light, rich, turfy loam 
and leaf-mould. Turn the plants out before they 
get pot-bound, otherwise they will have spider 
before they lose their seed leaves. Give plenty 
of moisture, but avoid scalding steam, and 
maintain a bottom-heat of 85° to 00° until they 
get well established, when 80° will suffice for 
the winter. Where winter culture is not 
thoroughly understood, the planting out system 
should be adopted, provided a good bottom-heat 
can be maintained in the chamber beneath the 
soil, and the plants are not so closely crowded 
together as is often the case where pots are used. 
Under either system their food, be it solid 
or liquid, must always be supplied at a 
temperature equal to that of the house. Insect, 
enemies of all kinds must have no quarter, and 
mildew must be prevented from entering by 
good culture and light cropping in an efficiently 
heated and perfectly ventilated house. 

Endive. 

Tie up Endive for blanching as it is required, 
but no more should be done at a time than will 
keep up a supply, as when sufficiently blanched 
it soon afterwards begins to decay. If boards 
be used for blanching the curled-leaved kinds, 
they will be much less likely either to rot 
through the effects of wet, or to suffer from frost, 
but whichever way they are treated the tying 
up or covering must be done when they are 
quite dry. Any ordinary thin boards sufficiently 
wide to cover the plants will answer the purpose, 
placing a couple or more bricks upon them, 
according to their length, to keep them close 
enough to the plants to exclude light and prevent 
their removal by wind. 


Oct. J3, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


3. r )!> 


As ground is cleared it should be dug over for 
the winter. In doing this be guided by the 
nature of the soil; where both surface and sub¬ 
soil are naturally open and porons it may be laid 
up in narrow ridges. Treated thus it gets mel¬ 
lowed by the action of frost; but in heavy 
retentive soils, the rams are thrown off the 
ridges into the hollows, which become saturated, 
and in the spring, when the ground is required 
for cropping, it is not in proper condition for the 
reception of seeds. In such a soil it is better not 
to ridge, but to dig it over, keeping it level, but 
at the same time turning it up roughly and 
leaving it as open as possible without attempting 
to break the clods. All ground that is used for 
vegetable crops Ehould be trenched every three 
or four years, 2 inches of fresh earth being 
brought to the surface on each occasion. This 
more particularly applies to old gardens, where, 
if it be not done, the surface becomes exhausted. 

It is necessary thus to discriminate between 
old and new gardens, as, in the latter, at a com¬ 
paratively small depth, the soil is yet raw. To 
bring any considerable quantity of this to the 
top, and to bury the surface soil that has, by 
stirring and exposure to sun and air, become 
better adapted for the requirements of plant 
life, would be a serious mistake, which would 
be injurious to the crops for a year or two after¬ 
wards. With such land as this, that is yet de¬ 
ficient in depth of good soil, it is better not to 
bring much of the under portion to the top, but 
in trenching to loosen about 6 inches of the 
bottom that has not previously been stirred. In 
t his way it will gradually be mellowed, in which 
condition it may gradually be brought up and 
mixed with the top soil. 

In trenching ground of every description, it is 
well to put some manure in the bottom ; its ad¬ 
mixture with the soil beneath very much improves 
the latter, and here it answers as a store for the 
support of the roots during dry, parchiDg, 
summer weather. This operation of digging and 
trenching in the autumn is of great importance 
to vegetable culture, and never should be delayed 
after the ground is cleared longer than can be 
avoided, as it can be carried out with more ease 
and expedition before the land is soaked by the 
autumnal rains. In addition to the effects it has 
in pulverising the soil, it is the means of de¬ 
stroying quantities of slugs and wireworms and 
their eggs, and also weeds that have newly 
vegetated. 


WORK. IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

If not already done, all kinds of bedding and 
greenhouse plants should at once be housed, 
except, perhaps, in a few exceptionally warm or 
sheltered districts, where the plants may bene¬ 
ficially be allowed to remain in the open air 
until towards the end of the month. But in any 
case they should be removed indoors upon the 
least sign of frost. 

Chrysanthemums in pots also must be 
protected in good time. If not all under cover, 
be sure to have all in readiness to house them 
at the first indication of frost or snow. Glass is, 
of course, much the best covering for these, and 
if there is any means of applying a little heat, 
or rather warmth, so much the better, for in 
spite of all that is said to the contrary, a little 
gentle warmth, just to dry up damp, disperse 
mildew, or assist the blooms to open, is, when 
iudiciously applied, a great assistance. Still, 
with a good, warm, sunny aspect, very good 
results may be obtained without any artificial 
heat whatever. If, however, there are more 
plants than can be accommodated under glass, a 
much simpler method may be resorted to. A 
framework of strong laths erected against a 
south wall, protected round the sides by a few 
boards or old sacks, or some felt, &c„ and a 
covering or roof of glass, such as nnused frame- 
lights, if possible, or even of calico stretched on 
a light framework, which can be removed when 
necessary, will afford accommodation for a good 
number of plants, and enable them to expand 
their blooms well, unless in an exceptionally 
severe season. Of course, the covering should 
be removed wholly or partially on fine days, so 
as to give the plants the advantage of 
the full light and fresh air. We have 
seen very nice Chrysanthemums grown planted 
at the foot of a south or west wall, to 
which the shoots were somewhat loosely nailed, 
as one would treat a climber; then, when cold 
weather set in, some pi|6es* of^anv 


were nailed to the wall just above the top of the 
plants, with a stick or roller tacked along the 
bottom. This canvas or blind was let down over the 
plants on cold nights, and rolled up and fastened 
by a piece of string in fine weather. The plants 
in pots should still be fed with liquid manure, 
or a solution of sulphate of ammonia, half an 
ounce to the gallon of water. But of course 
they will not now require watering nearly so 
frequently as a month ago, and the strength of 
the manure, of whatever kind, should also be 
reduced gradually as the days grow shorter and 
the sun becomes less powerful. Keep a sharp 
lookout now for earwigs, which do great damage 
to the newly formed buds by eating them away 
in places. 

Bulbs. —Now is a good time to get a good 
batch of Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, Crocus, 
Sec., potted. After potting, be sure to have a 
good hard bottom to stand the pots on, through 
which worms cannot penetrate. Cover up the 
pots well with ashes or Cocoa-nut fibre, and 
have a piece of some waterproof substance ready 
to throw over the whole when it rains. 

Zonal Pelargoniums that have been pre¬ 
pared for winter flowering should be placed on a 
light warm shelf as near the glass as possible ; 
water them more liberally, afford a genial 
temperature and free ventilation ; do not stop or 
pinch the buds any more, and they will shortly 
be a blaze of beauty. Primulas for early 
blooming need somewhat similar treatment, but 
not quite so much warmth, to do well. If pot- 
bound, a little manure will greatly help them. 

The beautiful Lilium auratnm and L. spe- 
ciosum (lancifolium) are now going rapidly to 
rest; give them no more water now, and when 
well ripened the bulbs must bo repotted into 
fresh material. B. C. R. 


Flowers and plants In rooms. — In 

a large bine china jar is a bunch of white Dahlias, 
single and double, with their own foliage. A tall 
glass holds long spikes of Lobelia cardinalis with 
red-flowered dark-foliaged Canna. Another has 
a large bouquet of the great Ox-eye and Michael¬ 
mas Daisies. A brilliant bunch of yellow flowers 
is of pot Marigold with Corn Marigold aDd Hele- 
nium autumnale. The yellow and brown 
colourings of French Marigolds are grouped 
together among their own foliage in brown 
Lambeth ware. White Japan Anemones and 
pink Pentstemons are with pale green Funkia 
leaves. A round dish-shaped china basket is 
filled with a late-flowering pale lilac Clematis 
with its own leaves. Pink Japan Anemones are 
with red-tinted foliage of Azaleas. A large 
china bowl holds pink Sweet Peas and Migno¬ 
nette, and a brass bowl is full of red P.oses, 
White Cyclamen hedenefolium, with its beau¬ 
tifully marbled leaves, is in a silver cup. The 
dinner-table has a decoration of pink China 
Roses with red Bramble leaves. 


ROSES. 

ROSES FOR GREENHOUSE. 

10377.—We think it a pity that you did not 
devote some portion of the side space to a few 
of the best Tea Roses, instead of occupying it 
with Gloire de Dijon exclusively, as they would 
have succeeded better there than in the centre of 
the house ; and in any case you will have to 
restrict the growth of the Gloire de Dijon to a 
certain extent, as those planted in the middle 
must get a considerable amount of light to 
ripen their wood and perfect their flowers. Such 
perpetual blooming kinds as Niphetos (the most 
useful of all the Teas, and the one so largely 
grown now by market gardeners) and Adam, 
but little inferior to it, ought to have the best 
places in the structure, and we advise you to 
modify the arrangements so as to give them what 
they require. Niphetos is not a strong growing 
kind, and demands much light. It is, as regards 
habit of growth, the very reverse of the old 
Glory—forming a bud to every few inches of 
wood. It realises the ideal of a perpetual fiori- 
ferous Rose, and is perfection in the bud state 
for buttonholes and bouquets. If you thought 
fit it could be worked (budded) on some of the 
Glorys, and would then grow strongly and fill a 
good space in a year or two. As in the course 
of several years those planted at the side of the 
house could be made to cover the whole of the 
roof, we cannot see the advantage of planting 



a second set in the middle of it, and our advice 
is to accommodate them all in the side borders. 
It is surprising the amount of bloom a strong, 
thrifty, well-established Rose will yield if well 
cared for. Other kinds we strongly recommend 
are Homere, very good; Safrano, Madame 
Falcot, and Celine Forestier—a Noisette and a 
very useful and free-flowering Rose. These may 
all be on their own roots ; indeed, we think the 
Teas under glass are better thus than on the 
Brier, but it does not much matter either way. 

Byflect. J. 0. 


10383.— Mareohal NIel Rose. — As the 
plant has made such good growth, we should 
say it would flower next year. A Rose seldom 
yields much bloom until it has been two years 
in position. What you have to do is to shorten 
the long, strong shoots to two-thirds of their 
length, and cut the weak ones away, as they are 
quite useless. November is the time to prune. 
When the flowering time is over, which will be 
by June, cut each shoot back to two eyes, and 
when these break and grow, encourage them by 
giving a good syringing twice a day in hot 
weather. This is the only way to grow- the Mare- 
chal satisfactorily.—J. C., Byjlcct. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


Shrubs for the seaside.— It is stated 
that the best conifer for the seaside is Cupressus 
macrocarpa, and it certainly seems to be thriving 
in a remarkable manner about Hastings. Among 
other things that succeed here are all the Euony- 
mus family, but especially the green-leaved 
variety, which I saw in the shape of large bushes 
everywhere ; also the Laurustinus, Arbutus, and 
Aucubas. The Japanese Privet also does well, 
and the Escallonia macrantha. Garrya elliptica, 
as a bush, is just beginning to put forth its cat- 
kin-like blossoms. The Azara microphylla may 
be seen in the form of neat specimens; also 
Leycesteria formosa. For shelter belts the 
Wych Elm is recommended, and certainly it 
contrasts favourably with Poplars and other 
things usually planted for the purpose. In a 
sheltered nook not far from the sea I saw a 
house front covered with Magnolia grandiflora, 
in luxuriant health. Another near was com¬ 
pletely enveloped with Passiflora ccernlea. The 
Tamarisk, of course, is a well-known seaside 
plant, growing to a considerable height—10 feet 
or 12 feet—in sheltered places. There is a 
hedge of it on the top of the cliff bounding the 
old castle, and there are larger plants among the 
ruins, but on exposed sites they never grow to a 
great height. The young shoots are often cut 
by the winds, which keep the plants dwarf; 
nevertheless, they are healthy. All the Yuccas 
are good seaside plants, especially when 
dwarf. Chrysanthemums, Carnations, Pinks, and 
Michaelmas Daisies thrive well, and the Wall¬ 
flowers must be a pretty sight in spring. The 
Sea Thrift grows here in dense patches, in 
picturesque profusion, on old walls and on the 
face of the cliff.—H. 

Virginian Creepers— At this season the 
fiery hues of the Virginian Creeper arc every¬ 
where conspicuous; it is a special favourite 
with all classes, and in the case of suburban 
villas long sprays of it hanging from balconies 
are strikingly beautiful. I find, too, that the 
newer Ampelopsis Veitchi is becoming eqnally 
popular as the older variety; when once fairly 
started into growth it clings with great tenacity 
to walls and even woodwork. But I find that 
the intensity of colour in the leaves is entirely 
ruled by the amount of direct sunshine the 
plants receive during the growing season; 
therefore an open, sunny position should be 
selected for them. A few years ago, when this 
variety of Ampelopsis first made its appearance, 
and before its hardiness had been tested, I 
planted some of it under the shelter of a glass- 
covered walk, thinking to get a maximum of 
colour in the leaves; but although the plants 
grew well, the autumn tints which they assumed 
were not nearly so gcod as in those that were 
fully exposed on open walls. I have lately seen 
brilliant examples of this creeper clinging to 
the walls of mansions and old castles on the 
south coast.—J. G. 

10100 .—Hydrangea panloulata gran¬ 
diflora.—This is one of our hardiest, as well as 
one of the most beautiful, of outdoor flowering 
shrubs. It will grow in almost any kind of soil, 


360 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 13, 1883. 


but thrives best in loam, and where the natural 
staple is poor, sandy, or light, plenty of good 
manure should be added. For this Hydrangea, 
being a strong grower and producing very large 
and numerous heads of bloom, requires a con¬ 
siderable amo jnt 'o: nourishment when growing. 
A sunny, and, if possible, somewhat sheltered 
position from high winds should be selected, as 
the beauty of the flowers is apt to be dimmed by 
gales, accompanied by a heavy downpour of rain. 
In planting, make the soil very firm around 
the roots, and mulch in spring with manure. 
Larger flower heads and a more compact habit 
are secured if the stronger branches are pruned 
back every year in March to within two eyes of 
the ba<e. This causes them to break stronger, 
and grow altogether more vigorously. Allow 
plenty of space for development.—J. C. B. 


FRUIT. 

WATERING FRUIT TREES IN AUTUMN. 
If there is one point on which growers agree 
more than on another it is on the importance of 
the thorough ripening of the wood in autumn. It 
is a good omen to see the leaves change to a rich 
golden colour and drop off naturally, leaving 
plump buds behind; but, in order to assist nature, 
it is frequently advised in works on “ Fruit Cul¬ 
ture" to keep the fruit tree borders rather dry, 
as, for instance, where late crops of Grapes are 
hanging, and in many cases where houses that 
supply the earliest crops are desired to be ready 
for pruning early in the autumn. It cannot, how¬ 
ever, be too often or too distinctly repeated that 
drying off or forcing to rest from lack of mois¬ 
ture is a most dangerous proceeding, and many 
a crop of fruit is thus wrecked, even while yet in 
its embryo state. After many years’ experience, 
I can safely say that the roots of fruit trees are 
never wholly at rest, and can no more be safely' 
left without a supply of soluble food than can 
any living thing without feeling its effects, and 
not only feeling them, but showing them the 
following season. Let anyone take the trouble 
to examine fruit tree borders either under glass 
or in the open, in the months-of August and Sep¬ 
tember, when all the roots have been actively 
draining them of moisture, and when they have 
been subjected to the still larger drain by evapo¬ 
ration ; the work of watering must have been 
more attentively carried out than I have gene¬ 
rally found it to be, if a thorough good deluging 
would not prove more conducive to the thorough 
ripening of the wood and plumping up of the 
buds than any amount of drying off. If there 
be green or immature wood in any case, I have 
generally found it in trees that have been 
checked by drought from perfecting their 
growth until late in the season, when the moisture 
from autumn rains has started them afresh, 
clearly indicating that growth was only arrested, 
but not completed. 

If amateurs would only consider that fruit 
trees under glass are solely dependent on the 
supplies of moisture given them by means of the 
hose or the watering-pot, and that the keeping 
their trees on what is called the “ dry side ” is 
dangerous at any time, we should have fewer 
complaints of Peach buds falling off and the 
buds of Vines refusing to break regularly; these 
things only occur when the rains are intercepted 
by a glass roof, and where no means are taken 
to supply the deficiency of moisture. This is 
the time when the roots of fruit trees, bushes, 
or whatever other term they may go by, are in 
active Bearch of food to fill up the fruit buds of 
another year. Do not, therefore, imagine that, 
because the old leaves are putting on their 
autumnal tints, the roots are dormant; for on 
examination I have, as I said, found them far 
more active than when the blossom is expanding 
in spring. Therefore, to curtail their supply of 
root moisture is certain to throw the whole con¬ 
stitution of the tree out of gear. Let anyone 
take the trouble to examine a Gooseberry or 
Currant bush at this time, or daring the next 
month or two, and note how the fruit buds swell 
up; they will be found to do so as if spring, and 
not winter, was approaching. But although the 
autumn rains are filling the buds, ready for the 
first breadth of Bpring to awaken them into 
action, there is no fear of their anticipating that 
season unless they have been arrested in growth 
through lack of moisture. Those who have fruit 
tree borders would not think of keeping them on 
the "dry side" wjpSn’Hhs cron wa| spelling| 


vj ^un heyron^aj 


and yet next year's crop is equally dependent on 
a supply of root moisture now, even though there 
is not much visible sign of activity. J. 


Autumn-bearing Raspberries — Rasp¬ 
berries in season now are a decided acquisition 
to the list of dessert fruits. Semper Fidelia is an 
excellent late bearing sort. I lately saw some 
rows of it with dense, dark green foliage, and at 
the points of the shoots were large bunches of 
really fine fruit fit for any dessert table. It was, 
indeed, more like July fruit than that of 
September, and the quantity of green fruit indi¬ 
cated that Raspberries may be forthcoming as 
long as the weather remains mild. I need hardly 
remark that as this variety fruits at the extremi¬ 
ties of the current year’s shoots, the old wood 
may be entirely cut away at the winter pruning. 
Young shoots will push up vigorously from the 
base, and the stronger the shoots the finer the 
fruit; therefore good rich, rather moist soil will 
produce the best results, as in autumn when 
the fruit is swelling plenty of food for the roots 
must be available, or the produce will be poor. 
Before planting the soil should be deeply 
trenched and well enriched, and a mulching of 
decayed manure put over the roots in spring will 
greatly help to keep them at work near the sur¬ 
face. When heavily cropped, some liquid manure 
will also greatly assist the swelling of the fruit. 
—J. G. G. 

10410.— Vines in pots. —Your best way 
will be to procure a young thrifty Vine anywhere 
during the autumn, wintering it in the green¬ 
house, and in late spring, when the shoots are 
several inches long, shift it into a pot 12 in. in 
diameter, using good turfy loam with a little 
well-rotted dung. If well cared for, some feet 
of growth will be made during the summer, and 
the following year several bunches of Grapes 
may be allowed to form. The next year a fur¬ 
ther shift may be given into the largest size pot, 
and in after years the fertility of the Vine may 
be maintained by annual top-dressings of con¬ 
centrated manure.—J. 0. B. 

10381.— Vines in tuba.— We should have 
no fear as to the result, providing plenty of 
nutriment be given during the growing time. 
We have known very good Grapes to be pro¬ 
duced annually on Vines which had not been 
shifted for several years. A top-dressing of 
bone dust should be given in Bpring, with liquid 
manure twice a week when the plants are in 
full growth.—J. C. B. 

10384.— Pear tree not fruiting-— The 
system of pruning has all to do with the fruit¬ 
bearing properties of the trees. Cutting so much 
off the top of the tree was rather a questionable, 
proceeding. If the branches were too numerous, 
some of them ought to have been thinned out, 
with any dead or decaying wood. The branches 
must be thinned out as soon as the fruit is 
gathered, and do not cut back those that remain 
very severely.—J. D. E. 

10391.— Apples falling off.—In dry sandy 
soil with tall trees round it, the Apple tree may 
be too dry at the roots ; this would account for 
the fruit falling before it attained its full size. 
Probably the tree was over-loaded with fruit-, 
and when this is the case much of it will fall off 
when it is about the size of a Walnut, but 
enough ought to remain for a crop. Another 
reason is that a maggot bores into the fruit and 
causes it to drop. Two pails of night soil poured 
on to the roots would do harm instead of good. 
If the Apples are attacked by the maggot, it is 
best to pick them up and destroy the maggot.— 
J. D. E, 

10376.— Beat Apples.— In rely to “ Bag- 
shot," the varieties most in favour in this neigh¬ 
bourhood are the Wellington, Lord Suffield, 
King Pippin, and Keswick Codlin, also a local 
kind called Curltail Pippin, a capital keeping, 
cooking, and fair quality eating Apple. There 
is also a kind named Fletcher’s Seedling, which 
rarely misses bearing, and is grown only in the 
neighbourhood of Ottershow, principally by the 
Messrs. Fletcher, with whom it originated. It 
is not large, nor particularly fine in quality, but 
being so hardy and such a sure bearer, it often 
in our fickle climate proves a friend in need ; the 
same may be said of the Curltail, which, bloom¬ 
ing very late, generally escapes the May frosts. 
This latter is a very vigorous grower indeed, and 
requires more space than most kinds. These 
local kinds are, I believe, procurable of the 


Messrs. Fletcher, Ottershow, or of Messrs. 
Jackman, Woking.—J. C., Byfleet. 

10398.— Melons for house.— The beBt 
green-fleshed varieties are Bailey’s Green-flesh, 
Eastnor Castle, and Gilbert's Victory. Of scar¬ 
let-flesh, Blenheim Orange, Hero of LockiDge, 
and Read's Scarlet-flesh We provide squares 
of wood cut from deal, half-inch thick and 44 
inches wide. A wire is passed through holes made 
at each corner to suspend it from the trellis 
overhead, and on this small platform the fruit 
rests.—J. D. E. 

10390.— Bark on Strawberry beds —Let it re¬ 
main on the ground. Not all plants are benefited by a 
mulching of tanners' bark; but Strawberry beds seem 
to be very much improved by it. It makes a bice clean 
surface during winter; and any weeds are cut ofl by 
the Dutch hoe with great ease.— J. D. E. 

10397.— Names of Vines. —Besides Black Hamburgh 
plant Gros Maroc and Madrestleld Court, black Foster's 
white Seedling and Buckland Sweetwater are the white 
varieties most to be depended upon. Plant most of Black 
Hamburgh and Foster’s White Seedling.—J. 11. E. 


VEGETABLES. 


Exhibition Potatoes. — Having been 
again successful in obtaining first honours for 
my collection of Potatoes, I thought it might 
probably interest some readers to know the 
varieties that again excelled. Being an amateur, 
with only a moderate amount of space at my 



Sohizanthus plnnatus nanus. 


disposal, I of course only grow those varieties 
which I have previously tested, and with the 
cooking qualities of which I am, at least, fairly 
satisfied. For the greater encouragement of 
those who, like myself, may at first feel rather 
diffident, I may add that I have been for the 
past three years the rival of a more or less 
annually successful exhibitor at the Crystal 
Palace International Potato Show, beside seve¬ 
ral other regular exhibitors at various horticul¬ 
tural shows during the season, and who thereby 
have an excellent opportunity of observing 
which are the best and most prominent varieties 
for exhibition. Without, however, having had 
any of these advantages—nothing, in fact, save 
the occasional notes of your correspondents in 
Grrdening Illustrated— I have, by careful 
observation, managed to obtain respectively a 
second and two first prizes during the three 
years I have exhibited. Varieties .—White Kid¬ 
neys : Magnum Bonum, Woodstock Kidney. 
International, Covent Garden Perfection, and 
Snowflake. White Rounds : Schoolmaster and 
Bresee’s Prolific. Coloured Kidneys: Bountiful 
and Prizetaxer. Coloured Rounds: Triumph, 
Grampian, and Vicar of Laleham. In addition, 
I also grew the Reading Russet, Cosmopolitan, 
and Mr. Bresee, &c., but found their table 
qualities much inferior to the above, especially 
Cosmopolitan.— North ants. 

10392.— Wateroreas beds—The piece of 
ground mentioned is specially adapted for the 
growth of wateroresses. A level surface of sandy 
olay is required, and the water may be about 6in, 
deep. The beds are usually made wide enough 
to 'allow a long plank to be laid over them, bo 
that- t jiewcm may get on the plank to gather 



Oct. 13, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


361 


(he cresses. Two beds might be made in a 
width of (2 feet. Planted now they would become 
established before the winter, and start freely 
early in the year.—J. D. E. 

10383.—Slugs In Celery.—When these are nume¬ 
rous they make sad havoc with Celery; but salt Is 
death to the plants as well as to the slugs. The pests can¬ 
not tolerate soot; If they are above ground, continue to 
dust with dry soot when they come out at dusk. If 
they are under ground, try soot water. This will not hl- 
lojure the Celery, but the salt will.—J. D £. 

10*07.— Making Asparagus beds.— Trench the 
ground 2 feet deep, and incorporate with the soil during 
the process a very liberal dressing of stable manure. 
Plant the young plants early in March In ( feet beds. 
A space of 18 inches should be allowed between each 
plant— J. D. E. 


plant, except just tying in a stray or straggling 
shoot. Other forms of training are managed on 
a similar principle, the only difference being in 
the shape alone. Willows inserted at the sides 
of the pot, pulled together in the shape of a 
balloon, and fastened about the middle to a wire 
hoop, in order to keep them in shape, make a 
good foundation, provided the after training is 
not overdone. The one thing to be kept in 
view throughout in the cultivation of these 
plants is to pay strict attention to minute 
matters, to keep them always while growing 
close to the glass, with abundance of air, but 
sheltered from draughts or cutting winds. As 
regards varieties, selected forms of retusus, 


Jealousy. I fertilised one named Polly King, a 
light shaded salmon, and have raised a double 
of it the same colour. From a small packet of 
seed of Heliotropes I raised about thirty plants ; 
three of them have bloomed ; one of them I prize 
very much on account of its peculiar scent; it is 
unlike all other Heliotropes I have met with ; it 
is white in colour, with the scent of Man'-chal 
Kiel Bose. Another is a strong grower with 
thick stems, and one with yellowish-green 
foliage. The last two hive not yet bloomed ; if 
no more turn out good I feel my self well repaid 
for the time and trouble.—J. M. 

10402.— Wintering plants In cold 
frames.—Fuchsias are easily kept during ibe 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


BUTTERFLY FLOWERS 
(SCIIIZANTHUSE8). 

A FEW good plants of the Schizanthus in 
greenhouse or conservatory from April onwards 
are about as pleasing objects as anyone could 
wish to possess. The seeds should in all cases 
be got from a trustworthy source. Autumn is 
the time to sow. 

Sowing. —The seeds may be sown either in 
pots or pans, keeping each variety distinctly 
named, so that the requisite number of each 
may be potted when they are fit to be handled. 
Drain the pots or pans slightly, and cover the 
drainage with some rough material; then fill up 
to within half-an-inch of the surface with any 
ordinary soil nearest at hand, and run a surface 
sprinkling through a fine sieve; press all mode- 
i ately firm, and on this scatter the seeds thinly, 
and cover slightly with the sifted mould. If the 
soil be moist when used, and the seed-pans be 
placed in a frame which is kept moist and 
rhaded, no watering will be necessary before 
ihe seeds germinate—a process that soon takes 
j dace under favourable conditions. Gradually 
mure the youog seedlings to the light, and keep 
them close up to the glass lo induce a sturdy 
habit of growth. 

When they are strong enough to be potted 
the selection of soil in which to pot them will 
have to be considered as well as the form which 
(he plants are intended to assume. A compost 
in which Chrysanthemums or Fuchsias will grow 
will answer admirably, only it might be used a 
little poorer for the winter potting in order to 
induce a hardier and firmer textnre of growth. 
I'ots 6 inches in diameter need not be exceeded 
for winter use, and the plants should have a 
cool, airy position, with as little water as possible 
during the winter months. 

Thaining.— Previous to entering into other 
details, the form of training should be determined, 
in order that future operations may be directed 
towards the fulfilment of the object in view. 
Taking the habit of the plant into consideration, 
the bush form is the best mode of training that 
can be adopted, that of the pyramid or cone 
being the next most likely form to please those 
who have a leaning towards formality. 

Assuming, then, that the plants are established 
in 6-inch pots, and are placed in favourable 
winter quarters, those that are intended to be 
grown into handsome bushes should have their 
points pinched out when they are from 9 inches 
to 12 inches high; and, coiled round the rim of 
the pot and pegged down, little growth will, of 
course, take place during the winter—the less 
the better—till after the turn of the year, when 
they may be potted on into 9-inch pots, using a 
compost consisting of loam, leaf-monld, and 
rotten manure in such a condition that it can be 
robbed to pieces with the fingers and incor¬ 
porated with the soil. The young shoots will 
now have grown a few inches in height, and an 
upright stake painted green should be placed to 
each. It is not necessary at starting to train 
each shoot in a perpendicular direction, for 
whilst the shoot is fastened to the stake at its 
base, its point should be inclined either in an 
oblique or downward direction, so that each 
■boot may in turn produce a number of other 
shoots to furnish a handsome specimen. This 
can be done as soon as shoots enough have been 
formed upon whioh to operate. 

For specimens of any size, the final shift need 
not exceed a pot 12 inches in diameter, and if 
the foil bench and open, and ordinary attention 
he given, every stake will be covered by the end 
of Anri), and any traiping attempted plater 
would detract from thi 


h V^0 f0 



Flowers of Schizanthus rebuilt. 

which we now figure, and retnsus albus are not 
easily surpassed ; they make excellent plants 
for hanging baskets. 


Raising seedling plants.— I qnite agree 
with Mr. Hobday that raising seedling plants is 
very interesting. I am very fond of it, and am 
well pleased with my success. I give here a 
list of things I have tried, and with what resalts 
up to now. Last year I had a shilling 
packet of Tree Carnation seed, and raised 
twenty plants, nine of which have bloomed, all 
more or less being doable, and most of them 
very good. I saved seed of Zonal Pelargoniums 
myself: 1 fertilised J ealousy with pollen of 
Louis Boutard : two of the plants (seedlings) 
have bloomed, one of them being a fine double a 
little darker o; a little more rose-coloured than 


Life size. Drawn 111 July last. 

winter, as they cast their foliage, and there is 
consequently nothing to rot. Keep them rather 
dry at the roots and from frost, and they will 
be sure to come through ; but with Geraniums 
the case is different. They are the worst of 
soft-wooded plants to preserve in an unheated 
frame, as, being succulent, they are sure to decay 
more or less when covered up much in frosty 
weather. All that can be done is covering up 
well from frost; keep all decaying leaves 
cleaned off, water very sparingly, and give air 
in fine, mild weather, bet never on foggy days. 
With great care a considerable proportion of the 
plants will come through, and there is greater 
ohanoe with such ns have got well established 
in their pots, plants taken up late from the open 
ground seldom doing much good in cold framer, 
A great help, however. Is a lamp placed daring 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 










362 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 13, 1883. 


cold, damp days towards the bottom of the 
frame, leaving a little air on behind, putting 
out the lamp and closing the frame about three 
or four o'clock. This will dry the air and keep 
the foliage healthy.—J. C., lfyjleet . 

10409.— Groton culture.— Crotons are heat 
and moisture-loving subjects, and are in no way 
amenable to cool-house or room treatment. 
During the spring they must have from 60° to 
70°, with a rise of 10° on sunny days; and in 
winter they will not do with less than 60° by 
day, dropping 5° at night. A dry, arid atmo¬ 
sphere is death to them, as they revel in 
atmospheric moisture, and require plenty of 
water at the roots when growing. Good loam 
and peat in equal proportions, with some silver 
sand, forms a good compost, potting firmly.— 
J. C., Byfieet. 

10386.— Wintering Maiden hair Ferns.— The 
Maiden-hair Adiantum cuneatum will not do in ordi¬ 
nary winters in an unheated greenhouse. It might be kept 
there until frosts come, when it might be removed to the 
window of a heated room. There is a very pretty hardy 
Adiantum that loses its fronds in winter, named A. peda- 
tum ; it is an excellent plant for an unheated greenhouse. 
Repot the Spirtea at once in good soil.—J. D. E. 


Profitable gardening.— In February last 
I came into temporary possession, if. till the 
Michaelmas next, of premises where there was 
a good-sized greenhouse or conservatory, well 
heated with hot-water pipes, but having a large 
area of glass exposed. To turn this house to 
account, towards the end of February I sowed 
Hathaway's Excelsior Tomatoes. At Easter 
(March 25) they were pricked out four in a pot, 
and pushed along as fast as the bad weather 
then prevailing would permit At Whitsuntide 
they were potted singly in 5-inch pots with two 
trussesof bloom showing,the lower just opening. 
They were then planted out in their fruiting 
quarters—troughs of 11-inch boards, without 
bottoms, resting on the red earthenware lumps 
of the stagings. From the seventy-five plants 
the house held I gathered a total of 215 pounds 
of Tomatoes; the first gathering in the middle 
of July of 30 pounds, averaging six or seven to 
the pound, realised Gd. per pound, less the sales¬ 
man’s commission. Foreign fruit a good deal off 
colour, in the centre row of Covent Garden Mar¬ 
ket, were then labelled Is. to Is. 6d. per pound, 
according to their condition, while to such fruit 
as mine no price was fixed. Towards the end 
of August the salesman received and sold on my 
account at 4d. per pound. I then asked the 
price of some fruit in the centre row, which I 
could sec rvere Excelsior. Expressing my surprise 
at the dearness (one shilling per pound), I was 
answered, “ What, English hot-house Tomatoes I 
You’ll never get 'em cheaper than that.” Can 
anyone tell me if, with the best possible 
management (mine was most likely faulty), this 
fruit can be grown under glass in England, sold 
at an average of 4£d. a pound, and leave a profit, 
if not a living, to the grower ?— Not in It. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Continued from page 314.) 

The Greenhouse. 

There are many forms of this structure all 
more or less useful. 

Who loves a garden 
Loves a greenhouse too, 

says Cowper, and no garden is complete without 
a bit of glass; even the humblest may find the 
means to obtain it if they like, for glass is cheap 
enough now. Before a person can tell what 
kind of greenhouse he wants, he must make up 
his mind what he wishes to grow in it. The 
specialist generally obtains more satisfation 
from his work than does the person who aims at 
accomplishing all things. There are certain 
classes of plants which do best alone, so that 
the conditions they require may be obtained. 
The Pelargonium, for instance, requires a very 
light house, with some constant warmth in 
winter ; whilst the Cineraria and Calceolaria 
can hardly be kept too cool, if the frost is kept 
out. Again, the Pelargonium must stand on a 
dry stage ; but the Cineraria likes a cool, damp 
position. The same peculiarities run through 
the whole of the families of cultivated plants, 
and to attempt to grow them altogether under 
like conditions can only be done by each sacrifi- 

compromise. 
cast only bo 


obtained where each family can have a house or 
houses to themselves, though by dint of much 
care and skill a fair amount of success is 
obtained with mixed collections in some 
gardens. 

In the series of short articles which will 
follow this, 1 propose to group the families 
according to the treatment required. The two 
most important items in plant culture, especially 
in the case of those from temperate climes, are 
light and ventilation, and these conditions are 
best secured in a span-roofed house. In 
hundreds of cases very good specimens have 
been turned out of old-fashioned lean-to houses, 
this I know, for I have seen; but incessant care 
and patience was required to keep them from 
getting one-sided. With a span-roofed house built 
to suit the special families of plants cultivated, 
and made as light as possible—for most things, 
if the glass came down to the ground it would 
be an advantage, and the means of ventilation 
should be as extensive and as easily applied as 
possible. There is room, too, I think, for im¬ 
provement in the arrangement of the stages or 
platforms on which the plants are placed. If 
the corners were rounded off there would be less 
friction, without loss of space, as the slice taken 
off the corner to get round at an easy curve 
would be added to the opposite side to fill up 
the angle there. I saw this carried out in a 
nursery at Liverpool where things were remark¬ 
ably well done, and if it had involved any 
sacrifice it would not have been sanctioned ; but 
the square corners of stages in plant-houses do 
cause useless friction, and often leads to broken 
pots and damaged plants. At the time the building 
is going on measures should be taken to obtain 
a good supply of water, for a great deal will be 
required in summer. A good roomy tank, built 
with bricks and lined with cement, will be very 
serviceable to catch all the water from the 
gutters on the roof, and it may be placed under 
the stage ; but in the summer this supply gives 
out, though I have often by means of a large 
underground tank stored enough water in winter 
to last the next summer from the overflow of 
the tank under the stage. Still this source some¬ 
times gives out, and, if possible, some other 
supply should be near to become available if 
necessary. A pond is the best supply, and if at 
a higher level, a pipe leading from it and a tap 
in the tank will satisfy every want. 

In suburban gardens the water will doubtless 
be laid on. I lay some stress upon this, because 
plants derive a good part of their nutriment 
from water. And hard water, given either at 
the roots or over the foliage, is one of the evils 
plant-growers have to guard against. 

The Temperate House. 

The temperate regions of the earth cover a 
large area, and the flora which inhabit these 
regions is varied and rich. The very large section 
known as New Holland plants will come under 
this category. The Cape sends its quota also, 
others are gathered up in China, and odds and 
ends are brought from the Indian mountains 
and elsewhere. To refer to each genera separately 
would occupy much space and involve a good 
deal of repetition. Plants requiring the same 
temperature, the same soil, and the same general 
treatment, may for all practical purposes, in a 
workof this kind, be grouped under one heading. 
The plants from the temperate regions of Aus¬ 
tralia, New Zealand, the Cape of Good Hope, and 
China, comprise the most interesting and beauti¬ 
ful of our greenhouse plants. It is true their 
cultivation nnderordinary circumstances involves 
more care and thought than the common ruck 
of soft wooded plants with which they are too 
frequently mixed ; hence they are less grown 
than they deserve to be. But there is no real 
difficulty in growing New Holland plants, if they 
can have a light, airy house to themselves, and 
receive only enough artificial heat to keep out 
frost and dispel damp. The reason why so many 
people fail with the beautiful shrubs from Aus¬ 
tralia, which are so well adapted to impart beauty 
and character to our gardens in early spring, is 
because they mix them with the soft-wooded 
plants, and try to make them submit to the same 
rough and irregular treatment in the matter of 
watering, ventilation, &c., which soft-wooded 
plants usually have. Assuming, therefore, that a 
house can be devoted to the culture of this class 
of plants, there should be no difficulty in making 
it most interesting at all seasons of the year, but 
1 especially in winter and spring, when the largest 


number will be in flower. A span-roofed house 
is the most suitable, because light in abundance 
is essential to their well-doing. The ventila¬ 
tion should be as full and perfect as possible, 
and the water supply must be soft and pure. 
Having all theso conditions, the man that 
cannot grow New Holland plants must be 
defective somewhere, either in intelligence or 
energy. 

Soil and Potting. 

This class of plants will all grow freely in good 
peat, and where rapid growth is required, peat 
made porous with sand may be used. But it 
frequently happens rapid growth is not required. 
Where the houses are of moderate size, and the 
plants are not required to he run up very quick 
for exhibition or any other special purpose, it is 
better to bring them on slowly, to furnish well 
the base before encouraging an upward ten¬ 
dency. And these slowly grown plants—all 
other things being equal—are generally longer 
lived than are those grown rapidly at first 
Acting on the latter proposition, instead of pot¬ 
ting altogether in peat, a proportion of loam 
should be added varying in quantity according 
to its character ; indeed, most of the New Hol¬ 
land plants have been well grown altogether in 
Wimbledon loam, and the more loam is used 
the better, if hardy, slow, well-bnilt-up growth is 
required, always provided the loam is of good 
quality and of soft silky texture. Loam that 
feels harsh to the touch is deficient in humus or 
vegetable matter, and without some addition in 
the way of peat or leaf-mould is not adapted for 
plant growing, especially hard-wooded plants, 
which for the most part have fine roots requiring 
a soil possessing some retentive power without 
being absolutely adhesive. Having selected 
the right kind of soil and added the necessary 
sand or crushed charcoal to give it the requisite 
porosity, the next question is the mode of using 
it. Specimen plants, that is plants which are 
several years old and have acquired some size, 
should be potted early in summer, to ensure the 
new soil being occupied before the dark days 
come; but in all cases annual repotting may not 
be necessary, and if not required it should not 
be done. All plants may be assisted during the 
blooming time with a little artificial stimulant, 
such as Standen’s manure, or something of a like 
nature; this and a loamy compost will enable ns 
to grow our plants to a good size in compara¬ 
tively small pots, and this will be an advantage 
to the small grower. Peat is sometimes difficult 
to obtain good, except by purchase. Loam, i.e^ 
the turf from an old common or pasture, can be 
obtained in most places either for love or money. 
The Kentish and Surrey peats are good, and can 
generally be purchased in either small or large 
quantities, and it is usually sent ready for use. 
Loam, on the other hand, for most plants should 
be laid up in a heap till the grass is killed, and 
if much potting has to be done, a fresh supply 
proportionate to the demand should be secured 
every year, so as to have it in the best possible 
condition for the plants. 


The Potting House. 

In all gardens there should be a place set 
apart for storing potting materials, as well 
as a house or shed for doing the potting opera¬ 
tion in, and such shed should be light and 
roomy, and conveniently situated for the work. 
Where the collections of plants are large, and 
much potting has to be done at various seasons, 
a couple of hot water pipes should be run through 
it to make it comfortable for tender plants. 
Very many good gardens are only indifferently 
provided with conveniences for this work. All 
pots and drainage materials must be clean. No 
man will use a dirty pot who is not careless 
about success. There are usually broken pots 
enough in most places to furnish drainage for 
all the pots used in potting. These should be 
broken up into different sizes in bad weather, 
passed through sieves, and packed away ready 
for use when the busy time comes round. All 
soil for potting should be broken up with the 
spade or the hands. The latter plan is best for 
valuable specimens. It may be prejudice, per¬ 
haps. but 1 always think the plants thrive better 
in soil that has been passed through the hands 
in its preparation. One reason may be in tie 
use of the spade, the rougher treatment dis¬ 
lodges a good deal of the fine soil from the fibre 
—the two are not so well blended as when the 
soil (be it peat or loam) is pulled into frag¬ 
ments with the hands just previous to using it. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


I 


cing something—that is to sav, by 
The perfection (j^jSiuit^grow;— 




Oct. 13, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


363 


The soil should be prepared specially for the 
size of plants and pots they are intended to fill. 
For small pots it should be broken np fine ; for 
large plants it may be rougher, containing all 
the fibre as taken from the pasture or common, 
but it should not be sifted except it is for cut¬ 
tings or for plants just rooted, and which it is 
intended to transfer from the cutting pots to 
pots of the smallest size. The size of pot used 
in what by gardeners is termed the shift must 
vary according to the health and condition of 
the plant. If the plant be small, a pot 1 inch 
larger in diameter will be enough. Large plants 
may have larger proportionate shifts, but it is 
not often that a larger shift than 2 inches will 
be required. The drainage of the pots should 
be proportioned in depth to the size of the pots 
employed. In the case of small pots, or say 
pots 6 inches in diameter, 1 inch in depth will 
be ample, but in 10-inch or 12-inch pots 2 inches 
will not be too much. I have never found much 
advantage to follow the use of an inordinate 
amount of drainage. It reduces the earth hold¬ 
ing capacity of the pot, and renders the plant 
more liable to suffer from drought. But the 
drainage should be properly placed. One large 
piece should cover the hole in the bottom, so 
arranged that the water can get away and out 
at the hole freely. Most of the best made pots 
for specimen plants have holes pierced through 
the sides of the pot, close down to the bottom, 
in addition to the one in the centre, and these 
too should be covered with large pieces of crock. 
Then a layer of good sized pieces should be laid 
all over the bottom ; on these should be placed a 
layer of smaller fragments, and on the top a thin 
layer of still smaller bits. A pot so drained cannot 
become water logged. On the drainage should 
be placed a little Moss, to keep the finer particles 
of soil from being carried down by the water. 
.Sometimes a few rough fragments of turfy soil is 
used instead of the Moss, and this latter plan 
answers quite as well. I have gone rather fully 
into this matter, because, in the case of hard- 
wooded plants, it is very important. The soil 
should be used in a medium state, neither wet nor 
dry. but in a nice healthy, crumbling, condition. 
Neither should the balls of the plants that are to 
be operated on be in an extreme state of dryness 
or wetness. If a plant requires water, it should 
be left several hours to allow all surplus water 
to drain away before potting. It is better to 
give two shifts a year to a fast growing young 
specimen than to run any risk of overpotting. In 
potting on healthy specimens the ball should be 
transferred from the old pot to the new one 
entire, without any disarrangement beyond re¬ 
moving the old drainage from the bottom. In 
adjusting the ball in the new position the soil 
placed over the drainage beneath the ball must 
be made firm, but there should be space enough 
left between the top of the ball and the rim of 
the pot to hold water, otherwise there may be a 
difficulty in keeping the plants well supplied, 
and the space thus left should be graduated ac¬ 
cording to the size of the pot. The collar of the 
plant should be elevated a little above the sur¬ 
rounding parts to prevent the possibility at any 
time of soil accumulating round the stem, either 
by the action of water or other means, as hard- 
wooded plants are very impatient of this im¬ 
mersion of stem, death beiDg often caused by it. 
The ball should be held steadily in the centre of 
the pot with one hand.Vhilst the other is used 
to distribute the soil equally round the chasm to 
be filled, using the potting-stick frequently as 
the work proceeds to make all firm; and firm 
potting in the case of fine-rooted plants is abso¬ 
lutely necessary. A little sprinkling of silver 
sand on the top when all is finished may be 
given. It will sink in with the water and be 
beneficial in various ways. 

Restoring Unhealthy Plants. 


Nothing in this world has more than a limited 
duration, and plants, like men, must die in the 
coarse of nature ; but there are times of sickness 
and failing health, which need not necessarily 
lead to death if the right means are employed to 
bring back the plant to health. If the plant 
fbowing signs of failing health be an old one, it 
sill be better to throw it out, as it is well nigh 
impossible to restore an old, sickly, hard-wooded 
plant. But occasionally young plants, or plants 
with a good deal of useful work in them, will 
become sickly and lose colour from some 
temporary local and easily removed cause, it may 
h. The first thing is to fipd otgt tjv; i %u^e| ^nff 




the plant doctor, like the physician of bodily 
ills, will be successful in proportion to his 
diagnostic skill. Nine-tenths of the ailments 
plants suffer from arise from injudicious water¬ 
ing. It is true that with careful drainage, so 
that the water can pass freely away, the oppor¬ 
tunities for making mistakes are not so numerous; 
still, something or other will, in fact always 
does, occur, as the unforseen is constantly 
happening, A worm, perhaps, finds an unguarded 
opening, into which he crawls ; other worms may 
perhaps follow him, but he will need no assis¬ 
tance to upset the circulation of the plant by 
stopping up the drainage, which will cause the 
soil to become sodden and sour. The moment 
a plant loses colour, the condition of the roots 
should be seen to, and, if necessary, the choked 
drainage replaced with clean material. At the 
same time; the worm must be dislodged and 
captured. A rap of the pot on the edge of the 
potting bench will very often bring the worm to 
the surface. If that does not suffice, turn the 
plant out and run a piece of wire (a knitting 
needle will do) up through the ball in one or 
two places. This invariably brings them out, 
and if carefully done no harm will follow. New 
Holland plants are not much given to insects. 
Occasionally a brown and less frequently a 
small white scale attacks the bark of the stems, 
to which the latter clings with great tenacity. 
The brown scale can easily be got rid of by 
washing with a sponge, using a strong solution 
of soft soap or Gishurst compound; but the small 
whitescaleis more difficultto eradicate, and the so¬ 
lutions of soapor Gishurst will requiretobe strong 
to dislodge them. If a plant should at any time 
become badly affected, it will be better to destroy 
it, and start afresh with a young, clean plant, 
than incur the labour and trouble necessary for 
its disinfection. Water heated to 120°, with soap 
in solution, syringed over a badly affected plant, 
will clear off large numbers of the clinging pest, 
but no rest must be taken so long as one re¬ 
mains ; and unless one is endowed with a great 
amount of dnergy and patience, it is better to 
stamp it out at once and begin again. 

Other insect pests there are to deal with, such 
as aphides and red spider; the former is usually 
most troublesome just as the young growth 
breaks out in spring, and a few fumigations with 
Tobacco will, if taken in time, keep the plants 
clean. The red spider, as a rule, only comes with 
the heat of summer, and may be set at defiance 
if one has a good syringe and will use it freely, 
using soft rain water only. In the 

Summer Management of New Holland 
Plants 

when the growth has been completed under 
glass, which will generally be done by the begin¬ 
ning of July, a sheltered position in the open 
air should be prepared for them by laying down 
a couple of inches of coal ashes for them to 
stand on and keep the worms out of the pots. 
They may be arranged in beds for convenience 
of access, as very careful watering will be neces¬ 
sary, and each plant must be within reach of the 
hand which wields the water pot. Indeed, 

Watering 

is the most important operation in connection 
with plant culture in pots. As each plant, as a 
rule, requires looking at daily, there are 365 oppor¬ 
tunities for making mistakes every year. Small 
cause should there be for wonder, therefore, if a 
plant occasionally gets a drop too much, or is 
stinted, as the case may be, in trying to avoid 
the over-liberal hand. Whenever a plant requires 
water, enough should be given to moisten the 
whole body of soil. This rule holds good, no 
matter what the season of the year may be— 
whether winter or summer. Hard-wooded plants 
must never be allowed to become dust dry, for 
many of them have fine bair-like roots, which 
perish if permitted to become thoroughly dry. 
Indeed, the root structure of aplantwiil furnish 
ns with a good hint, if we take it, as to its needs 
in both food and drink. Though there is no one 
certain guide to indicate when a plant requires 
water, there are several circumstances which, if 
small in themselves, are, when taken together, 
sufficiently reliable. The same person should, 
of course, always do the watering. Chopping 
and changing about will lead to mischief. When 
one and the same person waters any given lot of 
plants" regularly, he will remember when such 
and such a plant was watered last; he will also 
know when and how they are potted, and the 


present condition of their roots—very necessary 
knowledge to possess. He will also have an eye 
to the weather, as in bright or drying windy 
weather plants dry much faster than when 
weather of an opposite character prevails. 
Rapping the side of the pot smartly with the 
knuckles is usually a reliable test in the case of 
large specimens, as when the ball is dry a hollow 
sound is given out, and when wet the sound is 
dull and heavy ; small specimens may be lifted 
in the hand, and the weight is a sure test as to 
the condition of the ball. In the course of a 
short time, by using pains, by observing and 
noting all the surrounding circumstances, ex¬ 
perience will be gained which will be of great 
value in the management of not only hard- 
wooded, but all plants. The danger arises from 
falling into a careless habit of acting first and 
thinking afterwards—of giving water before we 
are quite sure as to its necessity. Much more harm 
is done by giving too much water than too little, 
though I have met with cases where giving too 
little water at a time has been injurious. Instead 
of giving enough water to soak all the ball, only 
a little was poured on the top which failed to 
moisten the soil beyond two or three inches deep. 
Repeated doses on the top in this way will soon 
do serious harm, as the roots at the top of the 
ball are suffering from repletion, whilst the 
bottom of the ball is as dry as dust, and conse¬ 
quently neither set of roots are able to perform 
their functions properly, and the plant dies. In 
the case of hard-wooded plants death soon 
ensues. I have mentioned this circumstance to 
show how errors may arise, and what fatal con¬ 
sequences sometimes spring from what appears 
a very small matter indeed 

New Holland Plants in the Border. 

Those who have visited the large temperate 
house at Kew will have seen how well for the 
most part these plants thrive planted out in the 
borders of a large house, and in many a conser¬ 
vatory in the country, long before the present 
temperate house of Kew was built, it could 
have been demonstrated how well adapted many 
of them were for forming permanent features 
under glass, and how simple and easy their 
management was. A well drained border, 2 
feet or so deep, formed of healthy soil, a little 
pruning after flowering was over just to keep the 
outline right and maintain symmetry, was.with a 
good supply of water and an occasional wash 
with the syringe or engine in summer, all that 
was needed. The time will come when this class 
of plants will be more sought after, to the great 
advantage of both plant-growers and proprietors 
of gardens; but to revert again to their culture in 
pots, which will always be the most popular sys¬ 
tem, as the two or three months they pass in the 
open air ripens the wood and induces a free flower¬ 
ing habit, I will jnst say a few words about 
Training, itc. 

All plants are improved by more or les3 pinch¬ 
ing and pruning, which is usually given in the 
case of flowering specimens immediately after 
the blossoms fade. The plants are then pruned 
back as much as is necessasy to put them into 
shape and maintain the proper balance of strength. 
Without a little trimming many plants will be¬ 
come loose and straggling in habit, and wear ont 
at the base. Young plants should receive atten¬ 
tion from the first by having the points of the 
strong shoots nipped, to induce a bushy habit. 
Of course the work needs discrimination, as most 
of the plants under consideration flower on the 
young wood, and, except in the case of yonng 
plants in the course of formation, the pinching 
should not be continued far into the growing 
season. As regards training with stakes and 
ties, any plant capable of supporting itself in an 
erect position does not require staking. If it 
has a loose,rambling habit, the finger and thumb 
applied when the shoots are young will correct 
it, strengthen the base, and often give an un¬ 
likely ^looking subject a graceful, flowing out¬ 
line. To stake a plant and make it look well 
with the least possible number of supports, and 
these not too conspicuously placed, is like making 
a bouquet—it requires a trained eye and skilful 
fingers. Some people are born with the faculty, 
whilst others never seem to acquire it, hence the 
reason why so many ungainly looking specimens 
are met with. The addition of a few slender 
stakes, if rightly placed, will often improve a 
plant considerably. Passing a collection of 
plants through the hands of a good plantsman 
is like passing a batch of raw recruits 



3(54 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 13, 1883. 


through the hands of a smart drill sergeant—it 
sets them up and pulls them together, so to 
speak. Of course I am not saying that for home 
use both the plants and the men might not be 
as well without so much setting up, but they 
would not pass muster in public. And whoever 
aspires to take a leading position at the exhibi¬ 
tions must learn to train plants neatly without 
using too many sticks, as the latter possess no 
beauty in themselves, and are only tolerated be¬ 
cause of the evident necessity. Small, neat sticks 
painted greeD, look the best, and can be made in 
bad weather. Double laths—that is deal laths of a 
double thickness and that will easily rend—are 
the most suitable. Anyone at all handy with a 
sharp knife will quickly make a large number, 
and a coat of green paint will make them appear 
less conspicuous as well as more lasting. But 
as it must be a disadvantage tc the plant to have 
the ball pierced and perhaps the roots injured by 
having sticks thrust in in all directions, as few 
as possible should be used, and those not in¬ 
serted more deeply into the ball than is neces¬ 
sary to obtain the requisite hold of the soil. 
Most of the plants will require attention annu¬ 
ally, but a good deal of this work should be done 
in winter when other work is not pressing. 

E. Hobday. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

10380.— Sea sand for plants.— Sea sand 
may be safely used in the cultivation of all stove 
and greenhouse plants, Ferns, &c., except 
Azaleas, Heaths, and all such plants with tine 
hairy like roots and some of our fine foliaged 
plants ; for these silver sand should be used. Do 
not wash the sea sand ; instead of doing harm, 
the salt in it seems to do an amount of good. It 
is a fine agency to mix amoDg soil for a bed of 
Carrots. Drift sand is sand washed into the 
hollows of roads by heavy rains, or sand thrown 
high upon the beach by high tides.—J. Robert¬ 
son. 

- The fine dry drift sand collected above 

high-water mark is excellent. That which gets 
covered with the tide will do if washed in many 
waters and dried. Otherwise it will kill such 
things as Alternantheras, Coleus, and Heaths. 
Of course, for dressing Asparagus beds, and for 
use in the general kitchen garden, salt sea sand 
is valuable.—T. S. C. 

10344.— Gutting glass. —It requires some 
little experience to use a glazier’s diamond with 
good effect. Every diamond must be held at a 
certain angle to cut glass, and as the angle will 
differ slightly for every diamond or fragment 
of a diamond that is used for this purpose, 
the inclination to the glass at which the 
diamond will best do its work must be ascer¬ 
tained by using it. I cut a quantity of glass 
tolerably well with one of those wheel glass 
cutters.—A. J. 

10381.— Vine in tub— The Black Ham¬ 
burgh is the very best variety of Vine to plant 
in a tub in a greenhouse. Give the Vine the 
sunny side of the house, and grow the Vine rods 
up to shade the plants in summer, as the Vine 
itself should not be shaded. Use good turfy 
loam with some crushed bones to plant it in. A 
good dressing annually would be very satis¬ 
factory when it has arrived at the fruiting stage. 
—J. D. E. 

10408.— Campanula fragilla. — It is a 
good plan to cut back the long shoots of Cam¬ 
panula fragilis well above the (lowering points 
when it has ceased blooming, leaving 2 inches 
or 3 inches still hanging over the sides of 
the pot or basket. These will break again from 
every node or joint. Repot the plant in the 
spring, when cuttings may also be put in, and 
should strike root freely.—K. L. D. 

10404.—Earwigs.—Plants may be cleared of this 
troublesome pest by getting hollow bean stalks cut into 
shore lengths. Suspend them amongst the plants where 
the earwigs can have easy access to them. They crawl 
into them for shelter at night. Oo round about 9 a.m. 
next day and blow them out Into some hot water in a 
pail, or destroy them in some other way.—J. D. E. 

10380. — Sea Band for plants. — We use large 
quantities of this for all classes of plants, and fiud it 
answers admirably. It Is much cheaper than other sand, 
The railway company load it In seven ton trucks and 
bring it seventy miles to our station for six shillings a 
ton.—J. D. E. 

10406.— Hydrangea paniculate.— Mrs. B.— This 
is quite hardy, and one oi the heat flowering shrubs for 
the open garden. ItfwilPgrow in any ejood garden soil. 
m) requires no s^clal ^e^nw tOlj^j'Jung wood 


should be cut back annually to within thre e or four eyes 
of Its base.—J. D. E. 

10401.— Clematis Jackmannl.— I have one of the 
above which is cut to within 3 feet of the around every 
year. In the summer one side, or nearly so, of my cot¬ 
tage is a mass of bloom. It is now going off.— Mofussi- 
LITB. 

-There is no need to cut this down at all. The 

flowers do not deteriorate if the soil round the roots is 
not allowed to become exhausted. A surface dressing of 
rotten manure laid round the roots in winter will keep 
up the quality of the flowers.—J. D. E. 


Vegetable Marrows and Tomatoes.— J. W. 
—Vegetable Marrows are certainly a vegetable in the or¬ 
dinary acceptance of the term. Tomatoes are considered 
as a vegetable also,but It is Just possible that some judges 
might admit a dish of Tomatoes in a collection of fruits, 
as sometimes the Tomato is eaten raw as dessert. 

Greenhouse.—We do not know of a hook on the 
subject, but much information has been given, also dia¬ 
grams, in back numbers of Gardening. 

Leaf-mould.— Kirkby .—The leavesof Apple and Tear 
trees do not make flrst-rate leaf mould. 

W. Gould .—The dictionary you mention is as good as 

any we know of for your purpose- G. D ., Chisurick.— 

Give the ground a dressing with fresh lime, or gas-lime, 
and lay it up rough for the winter. In spring, a dressing 
of soot will also do good. 

Thomas Ritchie.—We do not think a golden-leaved 

Geranium would be admitted as a zonal.- J. E. S.— 

The disease you speak of is not the cause of the tree 
dying. The red spots on bark is a kind of fungus gene¬ 
rally to be found on the bark of decaying wood. 

Names of fruit — B. H. H.— The green Apple is 
Wykin Pippin ; large red, Emperor Alexauder; other 

cannot name.- E. A.— 2, Cox’s Orange Pippin ; 3, Lu- 

combe’s Pine; 4, Blenheim Orange-C. H. Large 

yellow, Wormsley Pippin; green apple, Blenheim Orange; 
other we do not know. 

Names of plants.— A uricufa.—Abelia rupestris. 

Plant against the wall in your cool greenhouse.- R. 

Potts.—I, Tradescantia discolor ; 2, Cissus discolor.- 

Tyro. —We cannot name without seeing flowers; should 
like to see a specimen when in bloom, as it seems to be 
an uncommon plant- N. Jf., Kgglestone.— Convolvu¬ 
lus althoeoidea (hardy perennial climber).- C. Little- 

Held.— 1, Fuchsia splendens; 2, Begonia weltonensis ; 3, 

Lavatera unguleulata.- E. S. T.— 1, Lamium macula- 

tumaureum; 2, Phygelius capen*is.—— J. Tuck— Cam¬ 
panula isophylla.- E. S. T .—Agrostemma coronaria 

(silvery leaved); cannot name other.- E. Durant. — 

Euobotrya japonic* (Loquat)- G. L.-w Phlebodium 

aureum.- Mrs Carry .—Nerino flexuosa (not hardy). 

- Kooky.— Both are forms of Ampelopsis Veitchi, 

otherwise called A. trouspidata.- G. W. T .—The dark 

yellow is Uelianthus decapetatus The other is not in a 
condition to name. We cannot name the white flower 
without further material, and a knowlege of its habit of 
growth. Please number sp* cl mens next time. Flower 
sent in round tin box without letter is Staphelia variegata 

(Carrion flower).- Tht-kla Rons .—l, lleiianthus gigan- 

teus; 2, Pyrethrum uliginosum.- A. J. W .; E S. T.\ 

W. E .; and C. E. Dram.—Sex t week. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents.— All communica¬ 
tions Jor insertion should be clearly and concisely written 
an one side qf the paper only and addressed to the Editor. 
Letters relating to business to the Publisher. The name 
and address qf the sender is required, in addition to any 
liom de plume to be used in the paper. Ansicers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title qf the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece qf paper. Owing to the necessity qf 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day qf publication, it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to vs again. 

Naming 1 plants.— Four plants,.fritits, or flowers only 
can be named at one time , and this only when good 
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name 
varieties qf florists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums , 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a, 
specialist who has the means qf comparison at hand. Any 
communication respecting plants or flowers sent to name 
should always accompany the parcel. 

10455.—Rose cuttings.—Fired by the success of 
your many correspondents in striking Rose cuttings, I 
tried a dozen myself, nine of which have died, leaving 
three, which, by the way, seem in the last stage of de¬ 
cline. I put each in a well-drained pot, filled with peat 
and sand, and a layer of an Inch of sand on top. The pots 
were put into a large Fern case in my drawing-room, 
with a uniform bottom heat of 63° to 70°. I was careful 
in my selection of cuttings, choosing this year’s well- 
matured wood, and cut to three eyes, tho middle one 
being just above the sand. The first week or so after 
they were put In they looked very healthy, and I was 
almost confident of success, but to my great disappoint¬ 
ment they have come to grief. There Is not the slightest 
trace of any root forming in any of them. This Is the 
second batch I have tried and have failed. I am very 
much Interested in this branch of gardening, and should 
esteem it o favour if some of your correspondents who 
have been so successful will point out the cause of my 
failure.— Bose. 

10450.— Planting Roses.—I have just cleared an ob¬ 
long piece of gTound of Scarlet Runners, and wish to 
plant the same with Roses at the end of the present 
month; nature of soil very heavy, clayey loam; have 
strewn the surface with 3 inches of solid fowl manure, 
which I purpose turning in during the coming week. The 
beans grew very strong, but as the Rose is a gross feeder, 
can I add more of the same manure, of which I £ave a 
great accumulation, or have I given too much, more 
especially as it is my intention to give each Rose at 
planting a spadeful or two of very rotten stable manure 
ftKiund vach plant V-I.W.S, 


10457.—Renovating a Vine border—For four 
or five years I have gained the first prize in Devonshire 
for Grapes, but for the last two years I have had a very 
poor crop-only half a crop, and very bad. I hare beea 
talking to my gardener, and he says the roots have run 
down from the surface some 3 or 4 feet. He accounts f r 
this by my putting in rotten leaves and sticks when 1 
made the vinery, and this has now sunk down, and pro¬ 
bably fungi has grown on the roots We propose raisipg 
the roots and putting in fresh stuff. What compost is 
best for renovating?—S ubscriber. 

10458.—Dwarf Fuchsias .—a gentleman offers agood 
prize at our local flower show for dwarf Fuchsias—t»o 
light and two dark—for the purpose of introducing them 
in this district. Myself and many others are at aloss to 
understand what is meant by a dwarf Fuchsia. They 
are not mentioned in any of our northern catalogues. Is 
there a limit to their height or their age, or are they just 
young plants of the ordinary sorts, and is there a special 
mode of treatment to keep them dwarf ? Any informa¬ 
tion on the subject will be valued.—J. W. 

30459. -Lillums not flowering.—Last autumn I 
had a Lllum longiflorum that began to grow out of doors 
in a large pot, and in the last week in October I put it in 
a cool house and kept it growing. It stopped growing 
about March, and has not flowered ; it has been out of 
doors since June, and now it is growing again ; also a 
Lilium chalcedonicum is now growing which has not 
flowered this summer; it was treated same as others that 
flowered well.—J. ROBINSON. 

10400.—Forcing Azaleas.-1 have some very pro¬ 
mising Azaleas ana wish to bloom them early. They are 
well set with buds, and have been now six weeks in a 
frame. I have hot water pipes running through the 
frame, and can heat them more or less by gas at plea¬ 
sure. I winh to know whether a temperature of 50 a by 
night would be too much for them yet. If so, what heat 
should be maintained? Also, will weak manure water 
help them to strong and early bloom ?— No VICK. 

10461.— Felicite Perpetue Rose. — I have this 
Rose on own roots, put in three years ago; it bore three 
or four blooms last year, but this year it seems to send 
out only strong, stout shoots 10 to 12 feet long. Must 
the old wood be cut away, and must these new shoots be 
shortened, and if so, when? Also what part will bear 
Roses next year, if any ?—Mabor. 

10162. — Gentiana acaulla-Could any reader 

kindly inform me how to raise Gentlna acaulis from seed ? 

I have tried with well ripened snd dried seed, in boxes, 
with light loamy soil, but without success. I hav* 
tried gentle heat, but still without success. .Should they 
he deeply buried ? My seeds were ouly just covered.— 
Twyford. 

10463.—Rose3 from seed.—Will some correspon¬ 
dent be kind enough to inform me if Roses can be raised 
from seed easily, and how aud when is the best time to 
commence operations ? I And a number of the seed-pods 
decay before they are ripe What is the cause of this? 
When should the seeds l>e gathered? Any information 
upon the subject will oblige.—J ohn. 

10464.-Treatment of Azaleas.—Will any of your 
readers kindly inform mo what is tho proper treatment 
for Azaleas (that have been in the open all summer) 
when first taken into the house until the time of .flower 
ing? They have formed buds, which are very promi¬ 
nent; should they receive manure water from now to 
the time they bloom?—A zalea. 

10465.—Apple trees from cuttings.—Mr. Groom 
has proposed in the growing of Apple trees from branches 
planted as cuttings what is. I expect, new to most people. 
Will he, or someone else, say at what rate it would be 
worth while to send selected bundles of such branches ? 
Has any amateur tried the growing of Apple trees from 
pips—if so, with what result?—J.H.C. 

10466.—Plum trees unfruitful.—Two old Plum 
trees against a south-west wall, in good soil, have borne 
very small crops for the last two or three yean, this 
year have borne no fruit at all. The branches are brown 
and shiny, and the leaves plentiful and healthy. Would 
root pruning be good, and if so, how and when ought it 
to be done ? The trees formerly bore large crops.—LD. 

10467.—Plants for winter blooming —I have a 
conservatory, temperature averaging 60° through winter. 

T wish it to be very gay from now until next spriDg; 
wbat plants must I have that will bloom through the 
winter? What is the treatment of Vallotas and Tube¬ 
roses when flowering is over, also of Bouvardias ? What 
Lilies are best to have?—L ycopodium. 

10468.—Trees for archwavs-1 have a iraail 
walk between two gable ends*of houses, and I with t» 
plant some trees that will make an archway. The walk 
is 6 feet wide. Could any reader advise me what would 
be the best kind of trees, and the most hardy, as they will 
have to face the east winds 1 1 Bhould like a flowering 
tree If it is possible.—D udlby. 

10469.— Movlngr fruit trees.—Owing to alterations. 

I have to move some standard and pyramid Apple and 
Pear trees. They have been in present position about 
seven years, and although root-pruned twice, have made 
much wood. Any hint as to time and manner of moviug 
them will be appreciated. —M. 8. 

10470.—Carnations and Picotees.—Will any 
reader kindly give a short list of the best show varieties 
of Carnations aud Plcotees, Btating their colours, Ac. ? 
Many might be induced to cultivate these charming 
flowers were they only certain of procuring them true to 
name.—F lora. 

10471.—Climbing 1 Roses.—I wish to grow three 
Roses (climbers) ia a greenhouse; will some reader supply 
me with names of a good red, yellow, and white, also 
treatment, soils, and temperature for same ? I want the 
white to be salmon tinted in the middle. lYhat Is a fair 
price for good loam per bushel?— amateur. 

10472.— Management of Ferns.— Can anyone giva 
directions for the winter management of Ferns planted 
out In a greenhouse with a mixed collection of plants, 
the temperature ranging from 40 r to 45° by night and 
50^ or 65° by day, and will it be too cold tor an Adiantum 
decorum in a pot?—A. H. M. 

10478.—Planting' trees.—1 9 m deajrousof planting 
in ground with a gravel subtoff a number of shrubi and 



Oct. 13, 1S83.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


3<i;> 


trees such as Limes, Poplars, Acacias, Ac. Will some 
reader kindly tell me the kinds that are most suitable 
for such a soil, the time for planting, and mode of treat¬ 
ment ?—A. F. 

10474.—Roses on east;wall.—'Ilast autumn planted 
'•gainst a wall facing east a (Jloire do Dijon Rose, also a 
Duke of Edinburgh. Hare 1 hone right, or should the 
bake be in a more open space ? Any Information on the 
subject will greatly oblige,—R obt. Wallkr. 

10475.—Maiden-hair Ferns.— Will someone be 
good enough to tell me when is the best time for sepa¬ 
rating Maidenhair Foms, and also the l»est compost for 
them, and if Adiantum Farleyense will keep healthy in a 
temperature of 50' during the winter.— AL C. C. 

10476.—Flowers : their form and colours.—I 
should be glad of any information respecting the above, 
also if any hooks can be bought that boar ou the subject, 
the name of the publisher, and the price. Early answer 
▼ill oblige.—S un field. 

10477.—Winterinar plants.—IIow should I winter 
Begonias, such as fudmoides, sent perilorens, and hand¬ 
some leaved kinds; also Abutilons and Diplacns glut!- 
uosus? My greenhouse is away from the house and 
unheated.— Paddv from Cork. 

10478. — Laburnum not flowering: —Will any 
reader kindly inform me the cause of my Laburnum not 
flowering ? As soon as the leaf appears it runs to wood, 
but does not bloom.—J uno. 

10479.—Moving a Thorn hedge.—I want to move 
a Quick hedge ten years old and 6 feet high from one 
aide of garden to the other. Can any reader say if I am 
likely to succaed ?—W. M. S. 

104S0.—Potting: Ficus elastlca. —Will some reader 
kindly state whether it would hurt a large Ficus elaatica 
to be repotted now, it being 8 feet high, in a 12-inch pot, 
and kept in a greenhouse ?—A. H. M. 

10481.—Auriculas.—Please give some directions for 
growing Auriculas In pots, soil, amount of water, and of 
sanahine? 1 am careful of the drainage, yet yellow 
leaves constantly appear.— Approving Reader. 

10482.—Excluding: frost from greenhouse.— 
Will any reader kindly inform me the cheapest, most 
effectual, and least troublesome method of keeping frost 
out of a small greenhouse ?—F. 8. 

104S3. — Melons and Cucumbers.—Will some 
reader give me a few hints on the culture of Cucumbers 
and Melons, also the proper manure to use, and the best 
month to plant for an early crop ?— Desire. 

10484 —Blgnoniaa —Can any reader give me hint* on 
the treatment of Bignouia venusta and Bignonia stans ? 
Are they deciduous? Temperature of conservatory 45^ 
to 50^ in winter.—O. S. 8. 

10485. —Single Dahlias.—I should be much obliged 
for hints on the management of single Dahlias when out 
of bloom.— Emma. 

10486.—Bata.—Can anyone tell me the best way of 
getting rid of bats in the roof of a church ?—E. M*C. 

10487.—Varlegated Gloxinia.—Does anyone know 
of a silver variegated (Hoxinla ?—H. R. 


BEES. 

PASTURAGE FOR BEES. 

The cultivation of honey-yielding plants has not 
hitherto received the attention of bee keepers 
that it deserves. In the summer, when bees can 
range the fields and woodlands, garden plants 
are not so much sought after by them; but in 
early spring the case is different, as long flights 
during fitful gleams of sunshine cannot at this 
time be taken with safety by the bees; but if a 
good pasturage of honey-yielding flowers are 
provided near at hand, the bees in their early 
flight have an opportunity of obtaining provision 
as soon as they can seek it—an advantage they 
are never slow to avail themselves of whenever 
the weather permits of their doing so. Among 
the earliest bee flowers may be named the Snow¬ 
drop, tbe varieties of Primrose, and the Russian 
Violet, then Arabis albida comes in most usefully, 
blooming generally in March, and often all the 
year; it admits of any amount of sub-division, 
and if a large bed of it be laid down in autumn, 
it will prove most valuable in the time of scanty 
bloom the following spring. The early variety 
of yellow Wallflower is, again, a bee-flower of 
undoubted value, contributing greatly to the 
support of bees during the early spring months. 
Plantations of strong plants of these may still be 
made for spring flowering. Limnanthes Douglasi 
is a most useful and hardy bee flower, and when 
once sown or planted takes care of itself, and 
may be kept in successional bloom for at least 
twelve weeks; it is most welcome to the bees, 
being covered by them on every available 
opportunity. Cardamine rotundifolia is a very 
valuable plant for the bee garden, it is hardy, 
rnd its profusion of early white flowers are very 
^tractive to bees. A large supply of food is 
Stained in the spring and early summer from 
he flowers of the white Turnip. Turnips, if left 
A the ground over winter, run to flower the fol¬ 
lowing spring. It will be found also a great 
advantage to cultivate bee flowers that bloom 
Jaier on in the year. Clover and Bean fields afford 
large supplies of honey in tbei* season. There 

Digitized by GOOgfe 


are, however, times when such sources of 
obtaining supplies are not available, and to 
fill up any intervals between field crops our 
etforts should be directed to keeping up a 
succession of bee flowers that bloom duriDg 
the summer and autumn. One very valu¬ 
able plant for this purpose, and of first im¬ 
portance to the bee keeper, is Borage, which, 
if sown in March, blooms from May till the 
following November, yielding a constant suc¬ 
cession of flowers, and is invaluable in damp 
weather, the bees eagerly taking advantage of 
its drooping blossoms when other flowers are 
charged with moisture. Prickly Comfrey deserves 
honourable mention as a honey-producing plant. 
It flowers from May to September, and may be pro¬ 
pagated by slips or cuttings, planted in the spring. 
A valuable late-flowering bee plant is the Giant 
Balsam. Judging by the number of bees which 
frequent it when in flower, there cannot be any 
doubt of its honey-yielding properties. It comes 
into flower in August and September, affording 
the bees an opportunity of replenishing their 
cells with stores for the winter at a time when 
many other plants have ceased to yield honey. 
Wood Sage is also a most useful and hardy 
autumn bee plant, yielding a mass of bloom at 
the end of the honey harvest. Amongst early- 
flowering shrubs valuable to bees, may be men¬ 
tioned Chimonanthus fragrans. It is grown 
generally against a wall, and flowers during 
January and February. The winter Honeysuckle 
is also very early in flowering, but continues to 
bloom later intothespring. Laurustinus, Berberis 
Aquifolia, and the red flowering Currant are much 
visited by bees with unmistakeable eagerness, 
and blossom very early. Willows afford good, 
early pasturage, and may be grown in damp 
situations. They may be propagated by cuttings, 
and will, in a year or two, well repay the trouble 
bestowed on them. Ivy is one of the best late 
sources of honey supply; it can be planted in 
any out-of-the-way place, such as against an old 
wall, outhouse, or ruin, where it will soon hide 
imperfections, and become ornamental as well 
as useful. The flowers of Apple, Pear, and Plum 
trees furnish large stores of honey. Gooseberry 
and Currant trees also afford honey of fine 
quality and in great abundance. Peach, Cherry, 
and Almond are also honey yielding. During 
July Lime trees afford abundance of stores, being 
then in flower, which is indicated by their strong 
scent and the music of bees busy at work amongst 
them. More honey is obtained from plants grown 
on warm, well-drained soils, than from those 
grown on cold, heavy lands; and hilly, exposed 
bee pastures are better in showery weather than 
low, sheltered ones, as in exposed situations the 
flowers quickly dry, enabling the bees to resume 
work upon them with as little loss of time as 
possible, whereas flowers in low, sheltered places 
remain damp for a length of time. It is a great 
advantage to have the hives near the pasture on 
which the bees work. Many bees are lost during 
the honey season, being caught in heavy Bhowers 
and destroyed, so that short jonmeys are a pro¬ 
tection to their lives as well as a saving of labonr. 

Boxnorth. 8. 8. G. 

POULTRY. 

Fowls dying.— T.. D. 6., Co. Tyrone.— 
The cause of so many of the fowls dying in your 
district of disease is doubtless due to the constant 
practice of breeding, year after year, from the 
same stock without importing, from time to time, 
a little freBh blood, whereby alone the strain of 
birds can be kept in robnst health so as to resist 
disease. If yon wish to confer a benefit on the 
poor people, who depend so mnch on the eggs 
laid by their fowls, or rather the money they 
produce, yon should, if possible, procure a few 
young vigorous cockerels of a good laying strain, 
such as the Hondan, Leghorn or Minorca, and 
let them cross with the hens they at present 
possess, and the result will, for certain, prove 
very satisfactory. Most fanciers have at this 
time of the year numerous draft birds from 
their stock, which, although not good enough for 
show purposes or for stock birds, yet would be 
good enough for the purpose mentioned above. 
The disease you describe is solely owing to 
poverty of the blood and want of stamina. 
Mnch may be done by giving tonics occasionally. 

A capital tonic is made as follows:—To one 
pound of sulphate of iron add as much dilated 
sulphuric acid as will dissolve it. Well mix this 
compound with one gallon of pure spring water. 


Keep in a well corked jar, and add one or two 
tablespoonfuls to the drinking wateroccasionally, 
or mix it up in the soft food. Again, among 
cottagers, it is often imagined that the birds can 
pick up nearly if not all they require to eat, 
among the hedges and lanes, and they are 
accordingly fed very sparely and irregularly, and 
often not at all, save with the scraps from the 
household, which among the poorer classes does 
not amount to much. It is absurd to think that 
a fowl can keep on laying eggs unless some¬ 
thing be given it in return, and all fowls 
should have at least one good feed of sound 
grain per day. It is impossible to ward off disease 
unless the birds be kept in good fettle. All 
disease must be stamped out at any sacrifice, and 
any hens which are suffering or have suffered 
from disease, should not be bred from,— ANDA¬ 
LUSIAN. 

Eggs not hatching.—//: IF.—You could 
not expect anything very good in the shape of 
pure Brahma eggs for 49. per sitting. The fact 
that several of the eggs contained dead chicken 
shows that the sitting of the hen was defective, 
and that the proportion of fertile eggs was fair ; 
and were it not for the mother, no doubt you 
would have had several chicken hatched instead 
of the one miserable specimen. But to buy a 
cheap sitting of so-called “pure" Brahmas, is 
anything but good policy when you desire to 
obtain really good birds. Remember that the 
trouble of batching and rearing is just as great 
with mongrel as with pure stock, and if you had 
expended a few more shillings at the commence¬ 
ment, the result would have, in all probability, 
been very different. Vendors of eggs from high 
class stock are justified in charging a fair price, 
say 7s. fid. or 10s. 6d. per sitting, as the stock 
birds are not only valuable, but require every 
attention and expensive appliances in order to 
ensure their producing numerous and healthy 
chicken.— Andalusian. 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 


To make sack mead.— To 22 gallons of 
water add 110 pounds of honey; 20 pounds of 
raisins chopped; 1 ponnd of ginger; 1J pounds 
of hops; boil gently for three hours, adding 
water from time to time to meet the loss from 
evaporation in boiling. Strain it into a tub, and 
when cooled to 72° Fah. set with yeast on 
toasted bread. October is the best month for 
making it. If the weather be cold at the time, 
keep the tnb covered with a coarse cloth to 
assist the fermentation. After standing two 
days, skim off the yeast, put it in a barrel, and 
add a quart of brandy. The cask should be 
nearly filled, in order that the scum as it rises 
may easily escape from the bung. Stop it lightly 
for the first month or so. About a twelvemonth 
afterwards, paste paper over the bung, tbe more 
effectually to exclude air. It will be fit for 
bottling two years after making, but will improve 
if kept longer in barrel. So prepared, it will 
keep sound and good for any leDgthof time, and 
the older it is the better.—A. J. 

Common mead.— To 22 gallons of water 
add 88 pounds of honey (4 pounds to the 
gallon), 1 pound of hops, three-quarters of a ponnd 
ginger, 10 pounds raisins chopped; boil it, &c., 
as above described. This, though not so strong 
as the above, will make capital wine, and will 
be fit for bottling in a year, though, like the 
former, it will improve with age.—A. J. 


Food for tortoises.— The common land 
tortoise is entirely a vegetarian, and will find 
enough food for itself in any garden, bat the 
little water tortoises are carnivorous ; fresh 
fish and raw meat are said to satisfy them, but 
I have not found it to answer ; perhaps living 
insects and worms would be better, but most 
reptiles are able to stand a great amount of 
fasting.—J. E. K. 


Single Dahlias.— A splendid series of these 
beautiful flowers has been sent us by Mr. Ware, 
of Tottenham. Among the most remarkable 
may be mentioned the following : Indian Yellow, 
Indian yellow, shaded delicitely with buff at the 
base of petals, with deeper yellow centre ; Mrs. 
Castle, a deep scarlet-red, with a suffusion of 
cherry at extremity of petals, yellow centre; 
Highland Chief, centre yellow, extending to base 
of petals, then changing to delicate pink ; Victor 
Strandling, deep rich red, yellow centre; Hypa- 
thia, rich scarlet-red, yellow centre. 


366 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 13 , 1883 ' 


Plants & Bulbs for the Million! 

NOTE THE PR ICES! 

All free at prices quoted for cash with order, t oeli rooted, and 
warranted to arrive safe and fresh to any part of the United 

Kingdom. 

m IMPORTED DUTCH ROOTS and 200 

plants for 21s., half 11s., quarter 6s., consisting of 
Hyacinths, Tulips. Crocus, Snowdrops, Narcissus, Anemones, 
Ranunculus, Aconites, Iberis, Wallflowers, Ac. Satisfaction 
guaranteed.—J. SYLVESTER. Idle, Bradford. 


•"TULIPS, 100 in twenty named varieties 6 s. 6 d., 
J- 100 mixed 4». 6d., 12 in 12 named varieties Is. 3<L, 12 
mixed 9d HYACINTHS, 12 exhibition varieties, named. 
5s. 6<L or 0s . mixed 2s 6d. to 3s. 6d. per doz. CROCUS. 100 
2s. 8NOWDROPS, 100 2s. 6(L Catalogues free.—J. SYLVE8- 
TER, Idle, Bradford. _ 

1 AO BULBS AND PLANTS for 3s., viz.:Hya- 

J.UL/ cinths, Tulips, Crocus, Narcissus, Snowdrops, Wall¬ 
flowers, Anemones, Ranunculus, Ac. Satisfaction guaran¬ 
teed.-J. SYLVESTER, Idle, Bradford. 


TTYAC1NTHS, named, 12, 4a. 6 d.; 100, 30s.; 
-LL Anemones, 2s. Gd.; Ranunculus, 2s.; Winter Aconites, 
2b. ; double Daffodils. 2s. 6d ; Narcissus poeticus, 3j., all per 
100. White Roman Hyacinths, 2s. 6d. and 3a. doz.; double 
Roman Narcissus, 2s. and 2s. 6d. ner dozen ; both to flower at 
Christ map - J. SYLVESTER, I dle, Bradford. _ 

PERNS AND BEGONIAS.—Four Maiden-hair 
J- Ferns, two varieties; two variegated Ferns and Bix 
Begonias, with beautifully marked leaves, 2s. 6d., free.— 
MAIRIS k CO., Weston-in-Gordano, Bristol_ 


ANE FARLEYENSE, the most beautitul Fern 

U that grows ; two climbing Begonia fuohsioides, coming 
into flower; two variegated Lycopodiums; two scarlet 
Tropajoluma that will flower all the winter. The collection 
free for 2s. 6cL— MAIRIS A CO., Weston-in-Gordano, 
Bristol.___ 


rpHE BEAUTIFUL MAIDEN-HAIR FERNS, 

1 Adiantum cardiochltenum, Adiantum concinnum latum, 
two winter-floweri ug Begonias, two scarlet Epiphyllums, and 
two greenhouse climbers, beautifully variegated ; the eight 

S lants correctly named, free 2s. 6d. — MAIRIS A CO,, 
Weston-in-Gordano, Bristol. _ 


"DOSES ON OWN ROOTS. — Wonderfully 

X\> cheap: from 10 inches to 15 inches high ; strong plants, 
will soon bloom; Red Gloire de Dijon (the new Rose), 
Homere, Isabella Sprunt, and Gloire de Dijon : the four for 
2s. 6d., free; price per dozen, 7s., free. — MAIR IS A CO., 
Weston-in-Gordano, Bristol. 

"DED GLOIRE DE DUON and five beautiful 

Xli perpetual Roses, all on own roots ; the six strong trees 
free for 2s. 6tL—MAIRIS A CO., Westou-in-Gordano^Bristol. 

miNTEfUFLOWERINGRKGONIAS.—Eight 
V V strong plants, will flower all the winter, for 2i. 0<L, free; 
Semperflorens. Weltoniensis, Parviflora, and Fuchaioides.— 
MAlRla A CO., Weaton-in-Gordano, Bristol. _ 

TTYAC1NTHS, the most precious of all spring 
JJL flowers; carefully pioked bulbs, much superior to those 
usually sold at auctiona; the best selections for pots or 
glasses, with cultural directions, 6i^ 9s, and 12s. per dozen, 
free; any quantity sent.—STUART k MEIN, Kelso, Scot¬ 
land. _____ 


rPULIPS, of immense value for spring deco- 

-L ration either under glass or in beds in the flower garden 
the best selections for pots, Is. 6d and 2 b. 6d. per do zen; for 
beds, to bloom simultaneously and give striking contrast of 
colours, 6s . 9s , and 12s. per 1'tO: any quantity sent; free by 
post with directions.—STUART A MEIN, Kelso, Scotland. 


pROCUS, the most ehowy of all the early spring 
flowers, blooming in February and March; the best 
selections for bedding or planting in broad bands or clumps; 
yellow, white, blue, lilac, striped, Ac., 2s. 6<L to 4s. per 100, 
free ; any quantity sent; list and directions —STUART A 
MEIN, Kelso, Scotland._ 

AMATEURS’ COLLECTIONS OF DUTCH 

xi BULBS, coutainiog a liberal assortment of the best and 
most distinct kinds for growing in pots, glasses, window 
boxes, vases, and outdoors in beds or borders, 5s., 7s. 6d , and 
12s. 6d., free. Beware of the cheap stuff sold at auctions.— 
STUART k M EIN , Kelao, Scotland. _ 

pOLLECTIONS OF DUTCH BULBS.—These 

are got up on a liberal scale, and contain carefully 
picked, heavy bulbs of the best and most distinct kinds, suit¬ 
able for large gardens for growing aa above; 21s., 42s., 63s, 
and 84a. and upwards, carriage free.—STUART A MEIN, 
Kelso, Scotland. 


0"l„ COLLECTION OF DUTCH BULBS 

AX Lb i contains a very liberal assortment of the best Hya¬ 
cinths for pots or glasses ; Narcissus, Tulips, Crocus. Snow¬ 
drops, Anemones, Ranunculus, Liliums. Scilla pibirica; all 
selected bulbs of the finest quality, delivered free to any 
address.—STUART A MEIN, Kelso, Scotland. 


fill COLLECTION OF DUTCH BULBS 

L6b« UUi contains a very liberal assortment as above, 
suitable for those having a small greenhouse, or, if desired, 
they may be planted in window boxes, or in beds and borders 
out-of-doors; delivered free to any addreas.—STUART k 
MEIN, Kelso, Sootland. 

7 I cT COLLECTION OF DUTCH BULBS 

f bt Ulli contains a exet llent variety of the best bulbB 
suitable for pots, glasses, or window boxes, and will give a 
grand display in spring without much trouble or any difficulty 
as to their treatment: delivered free to any address.— 
STUART A MEIN, Kelso, Scotland._ 


COLLECTION OF DUTCH BULBS con- 

Jb, tains a well selected variety of the most useful kinds 
for a small garden or greenhouse ; they are all of easy 
culture, and will give an excellent display without much 
trouble in their management; delivered free to any address. 
Buy early and secure the best bulbs.—STUART A MEIN, 
Kels o, Scotland. _ 

TQTH SEASON of HENRY & CO.’S celebrated 

Lu collection of newly-imported Dutch Bulbs for 12a. 6d.. 
carriage paid, as follows: 6 named Hyacinths, 3 vara., 6 
bedding. 6 Grape do., 60 named Tulips, 4 vars., 50 named 
Crocus, 2 van., 5C mixed do., 12 Iris, 12 Anemones, 12 Ranun¬ 
culus, 12 double white Naraissus, 12 single, 6 double Daffodils, 
12 winter Aconites, 12 Ixlas, 8 Lily of the Valley, 6 Lent 
Lilies, 2 Splnoa japonic*, Dlclytra.—Chig'tell Row, Essex. 

TjO enr 


BULBS 

Very long experience enables us to offer the BEST 
QUALITY at a moderate price, as proved by hun¬ 
dreds of testimonials. ILLUSTRATED LIST, de¬ 
scriptive, select, and comprising important NOVEL¬ 
TIES, on application. 

RICHARD SMITH AGO., 

_ WORCESTER. _ 

(TREEPERS for Walla, Trellises, &c., in great 

variety. By planting what is suitable, an unsightly 
object may easily be made beautiful. Descriptive list and 
advice on application.—RICHARD SMITH A CO., Nursery¬ 
men and Seed Merchants, Worcester. 


STRAWBERRIES 

NEXT SUMMER by planting now. Capital roots, 
4s. per 100. 6d. extra per 100 for delivery by 
Parcels Post. 

IN A FEW MONTHS by forcing, riants in pots, 
16s. per 100. 

Only the best varieties are offered. Descriptive List on 
application. 

RICHARD SMITH & CO., 

Nurserymen and Seed Merchants, 

"WOIROESTrEIR- 


ROSES20 acres 

Well rooted, many shooted, truly named, of 
matured vigorous growth, and of the best kinds. 
Bashes, B. S. & Co.’s selection, 8s. per doz., 603. 
per 100, packing and carriage free for cash with 
order. Standards, 15s. doz., or lOOfree for 120s. 

These World-famed ROSES cannot 
fall to give the greatest satisfaction. 

ROSES 

IN POTS ; all the best New and Old English 
and Foreign sorts, from 18s. to 36s. per doz. 

Descriptive Lists free an application. 

RICHARD SMITH & CO. 

WORCESTER. 


FRUIT TREES, 

SEVENTY-FOUR ACRES. 

Apples, Pears, Plums, Cherries, Peaches, Nectarines, 
Apricots, and other Fruit Trees, as Standards, Dwarfs, 
Pyramids, Bushes, Cordon, and Trained Trees in great 
variety. 

VINES, excellent canes, 3s. 6d. to 10b. 6d. ORCHARD 
HOUSE TREES in POTS, Peaches, Apricots, Nectarines, 
Ac., from 5b. Figs from 3 b. 6d. 

DESCRIPTIVE LIST, containing a sketch of the various 
forms of TreeB, with Directions for Cultivation. Soil, Drain 
age, Manure, Pruning, Lifting, Cropping. Treatment under 
Glass; also their Synonyms, Quality, Size, Form, Skin, 
Colour, Flesh, Flavour, Use, Growth, Duration, Season, 
Prioe, Ac., free by post. 

Bichard Smith and Co-> 

WORCESTER. 


FLOWERING SHRUBS 

Lilao, Mock Orange, Weigela. Almond, Althrea, Berberis, 
Cherry. Cytiftos, Hydrangea, Hypericum, Mezereum, Rtbea, 
Spine a. Rhus, Viburnum. Ac.. 8a per doz. DESCRIPTIVE 
LIST free. 

RICHARD SMITH & CO., 

NURSERYMEN AND SEED MERCHANTS, 

WORCESTER. 


HOLLY FOR HEDGES 

12 to 15 in., 25a.: 15 to 18 in., 35s.; 18 to 24 in,, 50a. per 100. 
"FOREST LIST," containing heights and prices of well- 
grown Quick, Ash, Larch, Spruce, Pines, Oaks, Ac., free. 

RICHARD SMITH <6 Co., Worcester. 


DANIELS 

CHOICE 

FLOWER ROOTS. 

OURCUINEABOX 

OF 

Choice Hardy Flower 
Roots for Outdoor 
Planting 

Contains the foil wing liberal 
assortment of 565 sound picked 
bulbs, with full instructions for 
cultivation, packing and carriage 
free to any address in the 
British Ialea 

25 Hyacinths, choice mixed 
200 Crocus, in fine variety 
12 Tulips Rex rubrorum 
12 Tulips La Reine 
12 Tulips, double mixed 
12 Tulips, single mixed 
12 Tulips. Parrot mixed 
25 Anemones, double mixed 
12 Anemones, double scarlet 
25 Anemones, single mixed 
6 Chionodoxa Luciliso 
12 Polyanthus Narcissus mixed 
12 Double White Narcissus 
12 Phea*ant’a-eye Narcissus 
6 Campernelle Jonquils 
25 Ranunculi, scarlet Turb in 
25 Ranunculi, mixed Turban 
50 Snowdrops 
50 Wioter Aconites 
12 Spanish Iris 
6 Triteleia uuiflora 
2 Lilies 

Two boxes 40s., half box 12s. SdL 

From MIbb Dawson, Norbiton, April 7. 

“ Miss Dawson has much pleasure in stating that the Guinea 
Collection of Flower Roots has proved a great success, and 
has been greatly admired." 

Other collections for Greenhouses and Conservatory, 
Window-boxes, Ac., 12s, 6d, 21s., 42a., 63s., and 84s. 

Beautifully Illustrated CATALOGUE post free on 
application. 

DANIELS BROS., 

Eoyal Norfolk Seed Establishment, 
NORWICH, 



CHOICE DUTCH BULBS 

For Autumn Planting. 


We have pleasure in offering the following Dutch Flowet 
Roots, of unsurpassed quality, securely packed, and for¬ 
warded per parcels post or rail free to any address on receipt 
of stamps or P.O.O. 

SSL K 

Hyacinths, choice named, for pots or glasses, 

4s. Gd., ba , and 9 0 

„ mixed, single or double, for pots or 

bedding.. .. .. .. ..30200 

„ single White Roman. 3 0 20 0 

Tulips, early single, in 4 distinct named kinds .. 1 6 10 0 
„ double, in 4 distinct named kinds.. .. 1 3 8 0 
„ choice mixed, double or single .. ..1060 

Crocus, choice named, in 4 distinct colours, pr 1000 22 6 3 0 

„ Dutch, in 4 distinct colours, per 1000 15 0 2 0 

„ mixed, all colours .. per 100010 0 16 

Polyanthus Narcissus, in 4 named sorts .. ..3 0 

NarcidBUS alba plena odorata.13 6 0 

„ poeticus. ..1050 

Anemones, choice double, in 4 named sorts .. 1 6 8 0 

,, double scarlet . 1380 

„ double, mixed .10 ' 

„ single, mixed . 0 9 3 6 

Ranunculus, Persian, mixed. 0930 

Turban, in 4 distinct colours.. .. 0 9 4 0 

Snowdrops, double . per 1000 25 0 3 0 

„ single. per 1000 22 6 2 6 

Ixias, fine mixed.10 6 0 

Scilla sibirica . 1066 

For other varieties of Flower Roots, see Catalogue. 

ISAAC BRUNNING & CO„ 

Seed Merchants and Nurserymen, 

GREAT YARMOUTH, 
on nnn CLEMATIS IN POTS of aU 

Ov/jV/vU finest double and single varieties (some of 
the flowers of which become 10 inches across, and are of 
every shade, from pure white to the darkest purple) for climb¬ 
ing and bedding, from 12s. to 24s. per dozen, strong plants ; 
descriptive list on application.—RICHARD SMITH k CO., 
Nurserymen and 8eea Merchants, Worcester _ 

HINERARIAS, single and double, mixed, very 
v choice strains. 12 for Is. 3d., free; 100, mixed, for 5s.; 
ready for flowering pots.—J. LOOMES, The Nurseries, 
Whittlesey. _ - 

DOUVARD1AS, chiefly white, including the 

new double Alfred Neuner, 3? 6d. per dozen.—J. 
LO OMES, Whittle?ey. near Peterboro’. _ 

"PELARGONIUMS, French or fancy, a splendid 
-L collection. Duchess of B r dford, Captain Raike*. Dr. 
Masters, Ac.; fine healthy cuttings, well rooted, for potting 
on, 4s. 6d. and 6s per dozen, 3ls per 100.—J. LOOMES, The 
Nureeriea, Whittlesey, near Peteiboro’. _ 

"DR1MULAS, choice, Calceolarias, very good, 

L Is. 6d. doz ; Carnations, 3s. 6d doz.; white Marguerites, 
3s. doz.—J. LOOMES, F.B.H.S., The Nurseries, Whittlesey, 
n ear Peterboro. __ 

PLANT PRIVET HEDGES for shelter.— I 

J- 14 feet to 2 feet. Is. 8d. per 100; 2 feet to 3 feet. 2s. perl 
100; 3 fact to 4 feet, 2s 6d. per lOO.-MoFsra. 8TAN8FIEL.D. j 
Pontefract. 1 













GARDENING ILL USTRATED 


Vol. V. OCTOKER 20, 1883. No. 241. 


NOTES ON THE CULTURE OF BULBS. 

Hyaolnths. 

"The harvest is past and the summer is 
ended,” and with the advent of autumn comes 
the necessity for those who make a specialty of 
Hyacinths to make a selection of the varieties 
they cultivate. The sooner this is done the 
better, for the best Hyacinths are generally 
selected for early orders, and thosa who are 
served latest have to content themselves with 
second-rate bnlbs. It is not necessary to pot 
them at once, but the bulbs can be put by in a 
cool, airy place until required. 

Selection foe glasses. — The bulbs that 
are grown in glasses are generally put to work 
first, but it is a mistake to suppose that it is 
well to put the bulbs into glasses immediately 
they are procured. In our experience of grow¬ 
ing Hyacinths in glasses, we have found nothing 
is gained by placing the bulbs in water early in 
September, as some do. We prefer to keep them 
until the second week in October, as by that 
time the embryo roots begin to swell, and when 
placed in contact with the water soon make 
their way down into it. On the other hand, we 
have known rot to set in at the base of the bulbs 
when they have been placed in water very early 
in the season. Now for our selection. They 
should all be single varieties. Of red shades, 
among the darkest wo should select Circe, Ma¬ 
caulay, Queen of Hyacinths, Robert Steiger, 
Solfateire, and Von Schiller. Of rose, pink, and 
blush shades, the following:—Cosmos, Fabiola, 
La Joyeuse, L'Ornament de la Nature, Norma, 
Princess Charlotte, and Saltan’s Favourite. 
White: Alba maxima, Baroness van Tuyll, 
Grandeur <1 Merveille, La Franchise, Mont Blanc, 
Seraphine, and Themistocles. Dark blue : De 
Candolle, King of the Blues, Lord Palmerston, 
Marie, Charles Dickens, Grand Lilas, Leonidas, 
Baron van Tuyll, Mimosa, and Sir John Law¬ 
rence. Violet and mauve: Dandy, Haydn, and 
Sir Edwin Landseer, fellow: Alida Jacoba, 
La Citroniere, and Heroine. 

All or any of the foregoing can be employed 
for this purpose. Need we say that the broad- 
bottomed Hyacinth glass, of Tyes type, is pre¬ 
ferable to the old tall glass, which still exists 
and is employed, but which has the unfortunate 
drawback of toppling over; and there is the 
additional disadvantage that a support cannot 
conveniently be placed to it. Clear, fresh water 
is absolutely necessary; but previously to placing 
it in the glass a few pieces of charcoal should be 
dropped in, four or five about the size of a nut, 
and the water poured in upon it. There is no 
doubt but that the presence of charcoal tends to 
keep the water sweet, and it has some manorial 
properties; certain it is that it is an active rather 
than a merely mechanical agent. Allow the water 
just to touch the base of the bulbs, and only permit 
it to do this. Then the glasses can be put away 
in a cool cupboard or closet until they begin to 
show roots. 

JIyacinths IN POTS. —The selection given for 
glasses is also a good one for pots. Bat so mnch 
depends upon ones means. Happily, there are 
some remarkably good Hyacinths—white, red, 
blue, and yellow—that can be purchased for 
sixpence to ninepenoe each; while for those 
whose means are more elastic, newer sorts can 
be had at from one shilling to half-a-crown 
each: any good catalogue will give the neces¬ 
sary information. It is surprising what can be 
done with a Hyacinth in a 44-inch pot. Years 
ago a long deep pot was made expressly for 
Hyacinths, but they are not now much used. 
The fact is, it is mnch more a question of good 
soil and good management than size of pot. 
Our market growers have tanght us of late what 
wonderful specimens of plants can be grown in 
a 4{-inch pot, and the Hyacinth is no exception. 
Nodrainage is necessary. It is simply necessary 
to put a piece of crock over the pot, and then a 
few lumps of decayed cow dung can be added, 
placing the soil on this. A rich, light soil is in¬ 
dispensable, and it should consist of at least one 
half of good rotten manure, and the remainder 
turfy loam, with a liberal allowance of sharp 
sind. Should the loam be a little stiff, add some 
good leaf mould. Pot firmly, leaving about 

Got gle 


one third of the bulb above the soil, and then 
place the pots in a frame, and cover with cocoa 
fibre. If rain comes heavily and persistently, 
cover the pots for a time; if the weather be 
fine, the bed may be freely exposed to the air. 
Here the bulbs will root down into the soil, and 
Lay the foundation of good flowers, if only good 
management be afforded afterwards. My prac¬ 
tice has always been to put the early-flowering 
varieties in one batcli and the later ones in an¬ 
other, so that in bringing out the first there is 
no necessity for disturbing the second. The 
after treatment consists in encouraging a vigo¬ 
rous growth and a fine development of flower. 
To this end a fair amount of warmth is requisite 
during winter, and the growing plants must not 
be allowed to be drawn. Some Hyacinths have 
long leaves naturally, but in the case of many 
the growth is short and robust. The cultivator 
should especially guard against having his foli¬ 
age weak and drawn; if this happens, indif¬ 
ferent flower spikes will in a majority of cases 
follow; and when the flower spikes are begin¬ 
ning to show colour, some stimulus will be found 
of value. Liquid manure can be applied with 
advantage, but in a weak form. A good autho¬ 
rity on the culture of the Hyacinth states that 
when liquid manure is applied it should be in a 
very weak form. But it is not always conve¬ 
nient to obtain this, and therefore some other 
stimulus has to be provided. Clay's fertiliser 
can be used with great advantage. If half a 
teaspoonful be spread over the surface of the 
soil once a week, and watered into the soil, the 
developing spikes will bo materially helped. 
We use this manure to a great variety of plants 
and always with the best results. It is easily 
obtainable, and it is efficacious. On no account 
must the Hyacinth be suffered to want for 
water; a check from this cause is most disas¬ 
trous in its results. An attentive cultivator will 
take care that it does not happen. 

Tulips. 

Early Tulits for bedding. — Anyone 
wanting a dozen good useful varieties for 
bedding out for spring blooming will find them 
in the following:—Artis and Belle Alliance, 
scarlet and crimson; Couronne Pourpre, dark 
purple ; Paul Potter and Van der Neer, violet; 
Chrysolora and Yellow Prince, yellow; Duchesse 
de Parma and Keizer's Kroon, both crimson, 
edged with golden yellow, very fine and showy ; 
White Pottehakker, white; Thomas Moore, deep 
orange; and Rose Grisdelin, delicate rose and 
white. Not that this list by any means ex¬ 
hausts the list of effective and useful bedders, 
but it is a selection made after a full experience 
of the varieties. They are of average height, 
and they flower pretty well together. Such fine 
varieties as Bird of Paradise, Le Matelas, Pro¬ 
serpine, and Vermilion Brilliant make fine beds, 
but they are high in price and almost too expen¬ 
sive for bedding. They are grand varieties for 
pot culture; indeed, it is but very few of the 
early single Tulips that do not make good pot 
plants, but where only a few are required it is 
well to have them good. 

Tulips for pots. —I have given the names 
of four varieties as fitted for pot culture; let me 
make up a list of a dozen by adding Joost van 
Vondel, Roi Pepin, White Pottehakker, White 
Joost van Vondel, Keizer's Kroon, Rose Luisante, 
Wouverman, and Cramoise Ponrpre. Three bulbs 
of any one variety put into a .‘-inch pot will 
make a giand display in spring if grown well— 
so much depends on that. There arc many good 
Tulips spoiled through defective culture. 

Roil. —A good soil suited to the Hyacinth suits 
Tulips exactly. As before stated, three bulbs of 
any one variety are quite enough to occupy a 
pot of the size named. It is wise not to pot too 
early; the middle of October is a very good 
time. The pots are best covered up with ashes 
in the way of Hyacinths until they have rooted 
somewhat freely, and then they grow uppermost, 
strong and vigorous, and yet with measured 
steps. The possession of good flowers is, to a 
great extent, the measure of the good manage¬ 
ment given to them; if left too long in the ash- 
bed the plants are apt to become spindly; or if 
allowed to become drawn when removed to the 


greenhouse, the flowers arc certain to be de¬ 
fective. The finest lot of Tulips in pots I ever 
saw were brought on in an ordinary frame 
standing on a bed of moist, well-decomposed 
manure. 

Double Tulips for bedding. — Several 
varieties of these are also used for bedding, but 
unless the stems of the flowers are stiff and 
erect, the flower heads hang about and do not 
look well. Couronne Rose, Imperator rubrorum, 
Tournesol, LaCandeur.GloriaSolis, PurpleCrown, 
and Rex rubrorum are all good stiff growers of 
an average height, and blooming with a slight 
succession in point of time; and the varieties 
named are also good for pot culture, treating 
them in the same way as recommended in the 
case of the single varieties. They should have 
good soil to assist the bulbs in developing largee 
full, handsome flowers, and as the flowers of the, 
single and double varieties open, they should be 
treated to some liquid manure or fertiliser of 
some kind; and when Tulips are in flower their 
beauty can be considerably prolonged in the 
greenhouse or sitting-room by tying a piece of 
fine silk around the flowers so as to keep the 
petals close together. It is not so much required 
in the case of the double as the single varieties, 
and to make the pots of flowers as neat in ap¬ 
pearance as possible, each flower should be tied 
out carefully to a neat stake. R. D. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Continued from page 364.) 

Tbe Greonhouae. 

Roof climbers should be used sparingly, for 
this house, as full light is so essential for this class 
of plants. Still, if there is space and convenience, 
there are neat habited climbing plants which 
will not shade injuriously that will furnish and 
improve any bare space on roof or wall. The 
following short list are among the most useful: 
Acacia lliceana, Brachysema acuminata, Hib- 
bertia dentata, Jasminum (le Poiteau, Kennedya 
lilacina, K. monophylla, Lapageria rosea, L. 
alba, Sollya heterophylla, Swainsonia Osborni. 
I also add a selection of New Holland and other 
temperate house plants that will thrive under 
similar conditions and do well together: Abu- 
tilon Boule de Neige and others, Acacia armata, 
A. diffusa, A. Drummondi, A grandis, A. longi- 
folia magnifica, A. platyptera, A. verticillata. 
The Acacias are a most interesting and beautiful 
class of Australian shrubs of elegant habit of 
growth and easy culture. Platyptera flowers at 
Christmas ; the remainder follow in succession 
through the spring. Everybody with a green¬ 
house should grow some of these, as they will 
bear the usual treatment given to a mixed col¬ 
lection very well. Acrophyllum venustum, 
Adenandra fragrans, Aphelexis macrantha pur¬ 
purea, A. prolifera Barnesi, A. rupestris grandi- 
flora. A beautiful genus with everlasting flowers, 
formerly mnch grown as exhibition plants for 
the spring and summer shows, is Boronia Drum¬ 
mondi, B serrulati, B. megastigma (the last 
is sweet-scented), Chironia glutinosa. Cassia 
corymbosa, Chorozema cordata splendens, G. 
varium nanum, Coleonema rubra, Coprosma 
Baueriana variegata, Coronillagiauca, C. g. varie- 
gata, Correa Brilliant, C. cardinalis, C. speciosa 
major, Crowea latifolia, C. saligna major, 
Cytisus Everestianus, C. filipeB, C. raccmosa 
elegans, Daphne indica alba, D, elegantissima, 
Hedaroma tulipifera, II. fuchsioides, Dillwynia 
splendens, Diosma capitata, D. gracilis, Eriostc- 
mon buxifolius, E. intermedius, E. cuspidatus 
ruber, E. pulchellus (very handsome shrubs of 
pyramidal outline, bearing innumerable star¬ 
shaped flowers in winter and early spring, 
easily cultivated), Entaxia floribunda, Qastro- 
lobium Drummondi, Gnidia pinifolia, Grevillea 
elegans, G. robusta (the two last named are 
handsome decorative plants with Fern-like 
foliage), Habrothamnus elegans, II. fascicnlaris 
(the last named plant is invaluable for winter 
blooming, succeeds well in pots, or planted out 
trained as a standard with the flowering shoots 
drooping over has a pretty effect), Hibbertia 
dentata, H. Reidi, Hovea Celsi, Hoya carnosa 
Hydrangea Thomas Hogg, H, paniculata grand 







368 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 20, 1883, 


flora (the Hydrangeas are capable of great things 
as decorative plants when well done), Jasminum 
grandiflorum and others, Kennedya Marryatiic 
and others, a very handsome race of twining 
plants; Lasiandra macrantha lloribunda, Lesche- 
naultia Baxteri major, L. biloba major, 1,. major, 
L. intermedia (grand plants when well grown, 
sandy peat, well drained pots, must be watered 
with judgment, and have a light position near 
the glas 3 in winter), Linum tigrinum, Lnculia 
gratissima (very fragrant, large rose-coloured 
flowers, in winter does best planted in a good 
border, excellent wall plant), Metrosideros flori- 
bundus (Bottle-brush Myrtle), Mitrariacoccinea, 
Myrtles (various), Neriums (Oleanders—various, 
beautiful flowering plants of very easy culture), 
Pimelea decussata, P. Hendersoni, P, Neipper- 
giana, P. spectabilis rosea, very beautiful early 
summer flowering plants, grand for exhibition 
when well done, not difficult to grow; Plumbago 
capensis, fine for plantingagainstawall; Polygala 
llalmaisiana, P. cordifolia, PultemeaDrummondi, 
Roella ciliata, very pretty plant, peat and sand, 
using plenty of the latter to insure porosity; the 
peat should be fibry and rammed in firm, drainage 
must be perfect, do not over pot, and water with 
care and judgment, must have a light position; 
Sparmannia africana, Styphelia tubiflora, Swain- 
sonia Galegiefoliaalba, Tremandraerica folia, T. 
verticillata, Witsenia corymbosa. The class of 
plants under consideration are best grown in a 
light, not too lofty, span-roofed house, all the 
better for the plants if the glass comes down 
almost to the ground. At the same time they will 
do fairly well, as may be seen at Kew and many 
other places about the country, in lofty houses. 
In such houses occasionally a few of the Austra¬ 
lian Palms, or Dracienas, may be introduced to 
give character and breadth to the scene. The 
night temperature need not exceed from 40° to 
46°, and in frosty weather with fire it may drop 
to 38° without doing any harm. The plants will 
be healthier and more robust under compara¬ 
tively cool treatment. E. Hobday. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

OLEANDERS 

(neriums). 

The Nerium, commonly called the Oleander, is 
a much-neglected, though a very beautiful plant. 
It is an erect-growing, evergreen shrub, of the 
easiest culture, abundant in flower, exquisite in 
fragrance. The plants flower freely when scarcely 
one foot high, but will attain a height of 10 feet 
or 12 feet. To bloom them in perfection they 
need a warm greenhouse, and yet they do well 
in the parlour and out of doors. 

Potting. —In potting give plenty of pot room 
and use a soil composed of equal parts of loam 
well-rotted manure, and peat or leaf-mould 
Their natural period for blooming is July, but 
that may be changed and bloom produced at 
any season. Under favourable conditions they 
will bloom until frost, bedded out. One way to 
manage these plants is to let them have a short 
rest after the summer flowering, which can be 
effected by drying. Then trim to within a few 
eyes of the previous year’s wood, having due re¬ 
gard to the symmetry of the plant, and place in 
a warm greenhouse, encouraging them to make 
a short growth before winter sets in. In the 
spring shift into above compost, and stop the 
young growth so far as necessary to make good 
heads. If not convenient to shift as the plant 
grows, give liquid manure. 

Pruning. —Another system is to pot in spring 
as above, and if any plants have bad heads, cut 
them down to the shape desired. The old wood 
will push new shoots. Keep the plants thus 
headed down until May, when they may be 
planted in the garden; or if that cannot be done, 
turn them out, reduce the ball of earth by 
probing with a pointed stick all round the sides 
and bottom of the ball, cutling off any very 
matted roots. If any of the roots are decayed 
cut them into the sound wood. Re-pot into 
same tub, filling in with fresh compost, and give 
very little water unless there are signs of vege¬ 
tation. These plants may also be re-potted in 
August, and as they are of a strong habit will 
not be injured thereby, and that is a convenient 
season to do the work, as it is out of doors. 

Wintering.—T hey may be wintered in the 
house or in a light cellar, and should then be 

DWttad by Google 


but slightly watered; during the growing and 
blooming seasons, however, they should have 
plenty of water. Cuttings strike root with great 
ease if kept moist. Neriums are generally seen, 
when blooming, with as much growth above the 
flowers as below them; this is the result of 
neglect. Soon after the trusses of bloom show 
themselves, young growths of wood start from 
the base, and if these are allowed to remain, 
the flowers are weakened and hidden. Pick them 
out as soon as seen, and the flowers will form 
beautiful heads above the foliage. Flower buds 
frequently form late in the fall, lie dormant all 
winter, whilst the foliage and branches continue 
to grow, and in the spring expand into full¬ 
blown flowers, which then appear stuck in the 
midst of leaves, with branches all round them. 

In small tots. —In order to grow Oleanders 
in small pots like those imported from the Con¬ 
tinent, they must be especially prepared by 
early propagation, and a thorough hardening 
and ripening of the wood out-of-doors, fully ex¬ 
posed to the sun duriDg the summer, keeping 
them well supplied with water, for although the 
Neriums will bear any amount of ill-usage with¬ 
out its killing them, still they resent the bad 
treatment by failing to bloom. If kept too dry 
when their flowers are set, they usually fall off. 
They stand moderate forcing, but it is not well 
to attempt flowering them too soon, or the buds 
are liable to drop; neither must they be sub¬ 
jected to too much heat, or the same mishap will 



Double Oleander (Nerium). 


follow. After the commencement of the new 
year when they are put in heat, a temperature 
of from 60" to 60° in the night is enough. 

Insects. —These plants are frequently infested 
with white scale. For that, scrub stems and wipe 
leaves with a strong decoction of tobacco.heated 
to about 100°, and clean afterwards with soap 
and water; or with a whisk broom sprinkle 
thoroughly with 1’aris green prepared in water, 
repeating several times through the summer. It 
must be noted that the wood, bark and leaves 
of this plant are all poisonous. Death has re¬ 
sulted from eating meat in which skewers of 
Oleander wood has been used ; the powdered 
bark is used as a rat poison, and an infusion of 
the leaves is a powerful insecticide. 

Varieties.— The principal varieties described 
are Nerium Oleander, the common rose-coloured 
single flowering species, from which many 
varieties have originated; N. O. splendens, the 
most popular, a double rose-coloured flower; N. 
O. striata fl.-pl., with double flowers, striped rose 
and white; N. album maximum, semi-double, 
white; N. grandiflorum plenum, double rose; 
Shaw’s Seedling, deep crimson, single; N. 
macrophyllum, very double and large, deep 
pink ; N. album plenum, double white ; N. atro- 
purpureum plenum, dark purple, rich; N. cardi- 
nale, double rich purple vermilion, lighter in 
centre of petals, very fine; N. flavum duplex, 
double yellow, fine and distinct; (Kant des 
Batailles, single, light bine centre, petals edged 
with crimson, very fine; N. madoni grandi- 
florum, double white, free flowering, fine: Pro¬ 
fessor Durand, fine double yellow; N. 0. ele- 
gantissimum, a most beautiful plant, with deep, 
silver-edged foliage, and young wood, striped 
white and green; and maDy other fine varieties. 


IIOW TO GROW LILIES IN POTS. 
About twelve months ago the culture of Lilies 
in pots was thoroughly explained by various 
correspondents in Gardening Illustrated, 
but no doubt since then there are numerous 
additions to the readers of Gardening who will 
be interested in the subject, and who desire full 
information as to the proper culture of Lilies in 
pots. Every person who possesses a greenhouse, 
large or small, and especially those who have 
the convenience of a centre stage (side stages, 
as a rule, do not allow the requisite height to 
grow them strong) would do well to have a few 
pots of them, as they are without doubt one of 
the finest and prettiest flowers that an amateur 
can grow. They are very easy of cultivation if 
properly attended to, and it seems surprising, 
considering the effect a large group of Liliums 
in bloom make, that they are not more grown by 
those who have good conservatories to bloom 
them in, and which would show them off to the 
best advantage. They can be had in bloom any 
time from the middle of July to the beginning 
of October, or later if required. 

Varieties. —The varieties best suited for 
amateurs are L. auratum, L. speciosum rubrum, 
album ro9eum, album Krsetzeri, L. tigrinum 
splendens, L. tigrinum H.-pl., L. longiflorum, 
and L. eximium. There are many choice varie¬ 
ties besides, such as L. Browni, L. Parryi, L. 
Krameri, L. Humboldti, and L. Leichtlini, Ac., 
but the prices of those varieties place them out 
of the reach of most amateurs. My usual plan 
is to bloom my Liliums in three batches, the 
first commencing about the end of July and the 
last finishing about the end of September, which 
gets them all cleared out of the way by the time 
the Chrysanthemums have to be brought inside 
the house. This year I wanted all my Liliums 
in bloom at one time for exhibition purposes at 
the end of August. My greenhouse is not large 
enough (being only 16 feet by 10 feet) to hold 
one half of my collection if they were all in 
bloom at one time, and to have them so I had 
to erect a temporary tent or cover in the garden, 
the top and sides to within a yard of the ground 
being covered with canvas to protect that part 
of them which had been pushed forward 
with a little heat so far that they would open at 
the required time outside, from the wind and 
rain. The rest of them I took in the house, and 
pushed forward so as to overtake the others. I 
succeeded in getting seventeen pots of L. spe¬ 
ciosum in bloom at one time, the size of the 
pots varying from 8 inches to 11 inches, with a 
total number of about 1470 blooms and buds. 
The best pot I had this year was an 11-inch one, 
containing seven bulbs, and which bore collec¬ 
tively 160 blooms and buds. There were also 
five other pots not much behind it. As the time 
is close at hand to commence repotting the 
bulbs (I repot all my bulbs annually), viz., 
during the month of October, I give below the 
culture I find to succeed so well, and which I 
recommend others to follow. 


Time of Planting.—T he latter end of Octo¬ 
ber I prefer, or as soon after as the stems have 
died down, before the base roots have begun to 
grow again. The chief cause of many failures 
in growing Lilies to perfection is owing to the 
repotting being put off until spring, when .the 
bulbs have formed a great quantity of base 
roots. The base roots, being of a very fleEhy 
nature, are very easily broken, and it is impos¬ 
sible to repot them in the springwithout seriously 
damaging them ; they have therefore to com¬ 
mence again, besides having greatly weakened 
the bulbs, which spoils them for the following 
season. 

Soil.—G ood fibry loam one half, well rotted 
leaf mould one-fonrth, well rotted stable manure 
(free from worms and grubs), and silver sand 
one-fourth, witli a little lumpy charcoal mixed 
among it. The above compost will suit most 
Liliums. 

Potting. —In potting for exhibition purposes, 
a good sized pot for the speciosum classes 
(which are my favourites) is an 11-inch pot,with 
six or seven good bulbs in it. The crowns of the 
bulbs should be about 14 inches or 2 inches be¬ 
neath the surface of the soil, and the soil about 
1 inch from the top of the pot, which allows room 
for watering. The bulbs should be cased with 
silver sand, to keep the soil off them as a pre¬ 
ventive against rotting. I also partially crock 
the pots with lumpy charcoal, which acts as a 
manure, and also has a tendency to keep the com- 



Oct. 20, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


369 


post sweet. In the case of L. auratum, I pnt 
one good bulb in a 74-inch pot, or three bulbs in 
a 94-inch pot. I prefer small pots in compari¬ 
son to what some persons use for the quantity of 
bulbs potted in, and make up the difference by 
judicious watering with liquid guano. Large 
pots are a great eyesore in a small greenhouse, 
especially if the plants in them are not propor¬ 
tionately large, and do not require them. When 
potted, place them in a cold frame, which can 
be protected in severe frosty weather. 

Watering, Sec. — Until the stems appear 
through the soil, care must be taken not to give 
them too much water, as the soil Bhould only be 
kept just moist, after that a little more water 
will be required, and when fairly in growth, 
weak liquid guano water given three or four 
times a week will help them considerably, and 
will make them grow up strong and robust, and 
consequently there will be so many more blooms 
on a stem. When the blooms are getting over, 
use pure water alone. I have seen it recom¬ 
mended by some writers to use soot water now 
and then, but I find from experience it is not 
requisite. I was induced to try it once, but it 
spoiled me a good variety of auratum ; it is a 
liquid that you cannot properly tell the strength 
of, and if it is given too strong it will do the 
bulbs a great deal of harm, and must therefore 
be used with very great care. L. spociosum 
when in fall growth requires a good supply of 
water if the pots are well drained, but I find L. 
auratum cannot do with as much, and I have no 
doubt that hundreds of auratums are killed every 
year through over-watering them. I use nothing 
in the way of manure to my Liliums (except the 
manure in the compost) besides guano, and I use 
no other sort of liquid manure to any of my 
other plants in the greenhouse. It is very clean to 
use, and makes no unpleasant smell in thegreen- 
house. A good method of using it is to have, say 
a quart jog full of water, and put into it a table¬ 
spoonful of guano. 1 water my plants with a 
small watering can without the rose. All there is 
to do is to mix in sufficient liquid guano out of 
the jag after stirring it up to make the water 
about the colour of pale ale, which is sufficiently 
strong for most plants. I f wanted stronger, pour 
a little more out of the jug, bearing in mind 
that weak and often is better than strong and 
seldom. 

After blooming.— When the Lilies have 
done blooming place the plants outside in the 
full sun to ripen them off, gradually reducing 
the water till none is needed. If the weather is 
wet lay the pots on their sides so that the soil 
does not become saturated, and thereby cause 
the bulb's to begin to rot. 

Insects —Lilies are very subject to greenfly 
on the foliage if they are not well looked after, 
which causes the leaves to curl up, and it com¬ 
pletely spoils their appearance. At first they 
generally get on the lower leaves on the under¬ 
side in the shade, and if they are not soon 
detected they travel upwards, and there will 
soon be many hnndreds. A good plan to kill 
them is, draw the thumb and finger down the 
leaves with them on. If they cannot be got 
under that way, fumigate with tobacco-paper 
two evenings in succession, but if they are 
looked after properly they will never havo many 
on. Another thing that should be mentioned is 
to take care te keep worms out of the pots, as 
if any get in they choke up the drainage, and so 
can so the bulbs to rot away. P. Eainford. 

Wigan. 


VIOLETS IN WINTER. 

Tiie Violet finds favour with everybody, and yet 
how seldom do we see it grown as it ought to be. 
The question has often been put to me. Where 
do all the Violets come from that we see for sale 
in all our large towns ? One says, “ I have lots 
of roots in my garden, but I seldom get any 
flowers from them.” Another will say, “ I have 
some fine clumps, but the flowers are all so small.” 
Now, if you want Violets—fine, sweet, large 
Violets—you must give them good liberal treat¬ 
ment, not plant them in any out-of-the-way 
corner. and never give them one kind, generous 
look, except when you want to gather tome of 
their sweet flowers; and as now is the proper 
time to plant and pot up Violets to have a 
supply of flowers all through the coming winter 
and spring months, I would advise every one 
who has a greenhouse, of vi-Rat is mucR rfettjr a 
garden frame, to purcl)4^^d|3 ar tkAt| ^nce|; 


f for the greenhouse, have them in pots; if 
otherwise, you can buy fine clumps or roots full 
of flower buds from any good nurseryman, and 
with a little care your efforts will be rewarded 
with plenty of Violets. I say little care, because 
they are so easily grown, if done in the right 
way; and I will now give a few simple details 
how they should be grown to have them in 
quantity—the way by which I have always grown 
them with great success. Well, then, to have 
fine Violets, the old plants should be taken up 
in the month of May and divided, and planted 
on a north or west border that has been well 
manured and deeply dug, and by the middle of 
September the plants will have made fine clumps, 
the crowns being full of flower buds, and no 
lime should be lost in transferring them to a 
frame; one that has been used for Melons or 
Cucumbers answers the purpose well. Leave 
the frame on the spent hotbed, level the soil, 
and if you can add a top-dressing of fresh soil 
all the better; but bear in mind that the nearer 
the plants are to the glass the finer will be the 
Violets. I put my plants 9 inches apart each 
way when I plant them in a frame. If 
you have no frame, but possess a small 
greenhouse, you can grow them in pots. 
Hut to have them to do well in pots they should 
be potted up by the end of ,1 uly, so as to have 
the pots full of roots : but still, if good matured 
plants are potted now, they will give plenty of 
flowers in January and following months. 
If you have neither greenhouse nor frame, I would 
advise a simple but good plaD, namely, that of 
planting a bed outside 4 feet wide and any 
length, and put boards back and front and at 
each end, and when severe weather sets in place 
a few stout sticks or laths on top of boards, and 
cover over with mats or any other covering to 
keep out very severe frost or snow, and when 
your other Violets are frozen up in the outside 
border, those covered up will be fresh and green, 
and the flower buds plump and ready to open. 
But where a frame or frames can be had as 
before described, Violets in quantity and of the 
finest quality can be obtained. I have had our 
frames got ready, and the plants will be taken 
from their summer quarters and planted in the 
frames at once. A good watering will be given 
them, and the lights will be kept off nntil frost 
sets in. Violets delight in plenty of fresh air, 
and on this point they must not be neglected, 
or the result will be loss of both leaves and 
flowers. As to sorts they are all most beautiful, 
but I will only name three, the Czar, Marie 
Louise, and the ever-welcome Neapolitan ; these 
three sorts can always be depended npon, and 
will furnish flowers all the year round between 
them. Gardener. 

Fines hade Abbey. 


Ivy - leaved Pelargoniums. — These, 
especially the double flowered kinds, have, I 
think, a great future before them, and as time 
wears on we shall probably see them come into 
the very front rank of flowering plants grown 
by amateurs and the general run of small growers. 
Their ability to bear ill-usuage is very great; 
they suffer less from neglect than any other soft- 
wooded flowering plant I know. They are bnt 
little liable to damp in winter, and flower most 
profusely in small pots. This summer 1 counted 
eighteen fine trusses of bloom on a plaDt in a 
pot but 2 inches in diameter. Those who have 
not grown this class of Geranium should do so. 
—Byfleet. 

Sparmannia afrlcana — This, when well 
managed, is one of the most pleasing of winter¬ 
flowering plants. The best way is to strike some 
cuttings during the summer. Get them into 
small pots, winter them cool, and grow them 
along freely the following year, so that they get 
well established in 4J-inch or fi-inch pots by the 
autumn. Give them a month's exposure to the 
full sun in the open air, and introduce them to a 
constant temperature of 50° to 56° by the middle 
of October. Being thus endowed with great 
substance, vigour, and floriferousneBs, they will 
give a succession of their pretty flowers the 
winter through.— By fleet. 

Veronicaa for winter.— The shrubby 
varieties of these form very effective autumn 
and winter-flowering plants, as they produce 
their purple or blue flowers freely at this time 
of year, and for conservatory or room decoration 
come in well with Chrysanthemums, Salvias, kc. 
The best mode of producing nice serviceable 


sized plants with a minimum of labour is to put 
in the required quantity of cuttings in pots or 
boxes, or even in a cold frame with bedding Cal¬ 
ceolarias, as the treatment that suits one will be 
found equally successful with the other, and as 
soon as they commence to grow freely in spring 
inch the points off the shoots to ensure dwarf, 
ushy plants, and in April they may be planted 
out in the open ground in rows 2 feet apart, and 
14 feet in the row. Rather poor soil will produce 
better plants than such as is very rich, and keep¬ 
ing free from weedsand pinching the points of the 
shoots early in summer is all the attention they re¬ 
quire to make beautiful bushes by the first week in 
October,when they should be lifted carefully and 
potted, placing them in a shaded position for a 
few days, and giving a good soaking of water to 
settle the soil round the roots, when they will be 
fit for use; and as they are half hardy, they come 
in most useful for decorations where tender 
plants cannot be used, such as in balconies, win¬ 
dows, corridors, kc., and not the least of their 
good qualities is that they enjoy a comparative 
immunity from insect pests, being especially clean 
plants.— J. Groom, Gosport. 

10436.— Propagating Paohalaa — This 

is a good time to propagate Fuchsias. Take off 
all the soft, young growths and insert them 
round the edges of pots in light, sandy soil, sur¬ 
faced with silver sand. They will root freely in 
a warm house or pit with a temperature of 60° 
to 60°, and if kept growing on gently through 
the winter, will make nice plants in spring, when 
the old plants may be started in heat, and will 
yield an abundance of cuttings for succession. 
The old plants will fiower first, then the autnmn- 
struck cuttings, and then the spring-struck ones 
will keep up the supply all the season. But 
Fuchsias will bloom several times during the 
summer if, when one sot of blooms fade, the 
shoots are pinched back and rested for a short 
time, then top-dressed with manure, and started 
again with plenty of liquid manure.— J.Groom, 
Gosport. 

-It is late to take cuttings ; the wood has 

become hard, and it is indispensable that only 
young, succulent shoots be chosen. Fuchsias 
may be struck anywhere in a cool house from 
May to September, taking off the cuttings from 
shoots which arc strong, healthy, and in full 
growth. The wood should not be in the least 
hard. The best way is to put them singly in 
the smallest pots in light sandy soil, keeping 
under a handlight until rooted, then inuiiDg 
them gradually to the general atmosphere of 
the house. Plants struck in autumn will make 
good fibwering specimens for the summer, and 
these will be succeeded by those propagated in 
spring. The autumn-struck plants should be 
kept moist and in a light place all the winter, 
as they ought not to go to rest, but rather move 
along gently, which they will if well cared for. 
The old specimens should be cut back in Feb¬ 
ruary.—J. C. B. 


THE DOMING WEEK’S WORK. 


Extracts f rom, a Garden Diary—October 22 
to October 27. 

rotting old plants of Altemanthcras taken out of 
flower beds for stock. Pulling up Kcheverlaa out of beds. 
Digging up Raspberry suckers to make now plantations. 
Pruning Raspberries, and clearing all rubbish ofr the 
ground. Gathering Quinces, and storing them In fruit 
room. Going over late Grapes and cutting out diseased 
berries. Scrubbing, white-washing, and painting Cucum- 
hcr house. Earthing up Celery when sufficiently dry. 
TrenchiDg south bonier for spring cropping. Sowing 
M ustard and Cress. Gathering Scarlet Runners for seed. 
Planting Early London Cauliflowers, live under a hand- 
light in sheltered comer. Digging up roota of Mint and 
Tarragon, and placing them hi bores In gentlo heat. 

Indian Azaleas. 

Tlants that bloomed early last winter and 
completed their growth at a correspondingly 
early period will be in a condition to again force 
early this season. The time that they can be 
brought into flower will in a great measure be 
dependent upon the way they have been treated. 
If kept warm through the early spring until their 
flower-buds were large and prominent, they may 
now be brought into bloom by subjecting them 
to moderate heat in five or six weeks, as in many 
cases the buds will be almost ready to burst. A 
temperature of 60° in the night will not be too 
much, but if they are less forward than here in¬ 
dicated they mnst not be kept too warm, or the 
blooms will bo soft and subject to flag when cut, 
lor which purpose many of these early-forced 


370 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 20, 1883. 


I 


flowers will most likely be required. See that the 
plants are quite clear from thrips or their eggs 
before being placed in heat, otherwise these will 
quickly increase and cause much trouble after¬ 
wards. Keep them well up to the glass in the 
lightest position available, and do not at this 
season syringe them much overhead or keep much 
moisture in the atmosphere, as water applied 
now, except sparingly, either by the use of the 
syringe or in the form of vapour, tends to a soft 
condition of the flowers much more than in the 
spring, when there is more daylight and a drier 
condition of the external air. 

Hardy Azaleas. 

Azalea mollis ranks amongst the best forcing 
hardy shrubs in existence, and is calculated to 
supersede the old Ghent varieties. When well 
managed, by full exposure to the sun where 
planted out in an open situation with attention 
as to watering during dry summer weather, it 
sets its buds so freely that even small plants, not 
more than 1 foot high, are a complete mass of 
flowers when in bloom. The obvious advantage 
of this is that so much flower can be had from 
plants in very small pots. Enough stock to give 
a succession by starting at different times 
through the winter should be now at once potted 
up, securing all the roots possible with no more 
breakage than cannot be avoided. Whilst the 
weather is open they may be placed out-of-doors, 
but on the appearance of frost should be put in 
pits or frames. 

Chrysanthemums. 

If flowers of these have not already been 
thinned, this operation should be no longer de¬ 
ferred. The extent to which the disbudding is 
carried requires to be regulated in accordance 
with the nature of the varieties to be operated 
upon. There is very great difference even 
amongst the large-flowered section in the ability 
of particular kinds to produce fully developed 
flowers, some of the largest exhibition Borts are 
not able, even in the case of strong, vigorous 
examples in large pots, to mature more than a 
single bloom on the top of each shoot, whilst 
other kinds bearing medium sized flowers will 
carry four or five times the number. In like 
manner the larger bloomed l’ompone varieties 
should have their buds thinned more freely than 
the smallest flowered section, which, for general 
purposes, need little thinning. It is well to bear 
in mind that even for ordinary decorative use 
where there is no disposition to grow flowers up 
to the exhibition standard, it is advisable to thus 
thin them moderately, especially in the case of 
the latest blooming kinds, as where the buds 
arc in this way sufficiently thinned the flowers 
that are allowed to remain have correspondingly 
more substance in them, and when expanded 
will last on the plants proportionately longer, 
in this way prolonging their season of bloom. 
There are now a number of new varieties of 
these plants, mostly of Continental origin, that 
bloom early, coming into flower by the end of 
September, filling up the time between the 
summer blooming varieties and the ordinary 
later flowerers, and where there is a demand for 
cut flowers in considerable quantities, note of 
these should be taken with a view to obtaining 
stock for another year. 

Mignonette. 

Hants raised from the earliest sowing will 
now have attained considerable size, and if they 
have been properly attended to, ought to be 
well furnished with plenty of stout, healthy 
foliage. IE the pots are very full of roots they 
must be assisted by the occasional use of manure 
water, or the application of some concentrated 
solid manure to the surface of the soil that will 
invigorate them as it is washed down to the 
roils in the operation of watering, otherwise 
the pi mts get a yellow, unhealthy appearance, 
and there is a premature loss of foliage, and a 
correspondingly » eak condition of the advancing 
llowerc Wheie this sweet-smelliog favourite is 
ia regilar demand, a sufficient stock of the new 
double whit) variety ought to be grown, for 
although it does not seed so as to be raised in 
the usual way, it can be readily struck from 
cuttings. The enduring character of the flowers 
and its general excellent qualities are such as to 
make it well worth the little extra trouble 
involved in its propagation. Where young plants 
of it exist that ore at all short of net-room, they 
ought to have a shift* aWonce, usilg-good loam 
well enriched jp^n) M [t^whicb hai 


of ;the plants, it may occur any night now; 
besides it is very desirable that spring-flowering 
plants, and particularly bulbs, should be planted 
soon. As to the arrangement of the plants, 
much depends on the size and the number of 
beds to be filled and the plants at command. 
Provided there is no stint or limit as to plants, 
then preference should be given to planting 
them in masses ; but when plants and bnlbs are 
short, then plant thinly and fill the intervening 
space with hardy carpeting plants, bmall, 
choice, evergreen shrubs are also excellent for 
dotting about the beds as single plants in cen¬ 
tral positions, thus saving a certain number of 
bulbs or plants, and at the same time imparting 
an immediate finished effect to the beds. Hya¬ 
cinths, Crocuses, Narcissi, Primroses, Forget- 
me-nots, Daisies, Pansies, Wallflowers, Stocks, 
Silenes, Candytufts, Limnanthes, Saponaria, and 
hardy annuals generally are among the kinds 
that ought now to be planted, and as soon as 
done, if the ground be not clothed with sur¬ 
facing plants, it should be with Cocoa-fibre if only 
for neatness sake, though it is, I believe, of 
some little value manurially. 

Winter Bedding. 

In those places where spring effectiveness is of 
less importance than winter, a much better 
effect can at once bo made than is possible with 
spring bedding plants. This is done by using 
dwarf shrubs principally, though many other 
species of plants can be worked in well; among 
them are Thyme—green and variegated—La- 
miums, Ajugas, Veronica incana, Sedums, Saxi¬ 
frages, and hardy Heaths. These all do well 
for outer lines and ground-work, the shrubs 
being used for central masses or as standards. 
The best kind of shrubs are the Ketinosporas, 
Thujas, Cupressus, Osmanthuses, Aucubas, I'oto- 
neasters, variegated Hollies, variegated Yews, 
variegated Ivies, green and variegated Peri¬ 
winkles, green and variegated Euonymuses, 
Box, and Berberis. In the disposition or ar¬ 
ranging of shrubs for winter bedding, the colours 
being so nearly allied, care is needed to keep 
them as distinct as possible by planting the 
lightest greens with the variegated kinds, the 
darkest with the silvery greens, and the formal 
growing kinds with those of an opposite habit. 
By attention to this simple rule, sameness of 
colour and a nursery-like appearance will be 
avoided. 

General Flower Garden Work. 

Lift all plants that mnst be saved; any that 
are not valued, and of which there is sufficient 
stock for another year, may be left till frost has 
destroyed them. Get all kinds of tender plants 
under cover, but air freely in favourable weather. 
Damp, atmospheric and at the root, is at this 
season the sole cause of plants rotting off ; hence 
this should be guarded against. Proceed with 
shrub and tree planting as opportunity offers, 
there being more time for such extraneous jobs 
at this time of year than there is in the busy 
spring-time, besides the additional incentive 
there is for doing such work now, namely, that 
the plants as a rule flourish better. W. W. 

Hardy Fruits. 

With the exception of a few late Apples, 
which will be quite fit for gathering, all the fruit 
will now be in the fruit room, and the weather 
being so mild and favourable for ground work, 
every operation pertaining to the disturbance of 
the roots of the trees will require and repay early 
attention. On high and dry soils the importance 
of root pruning is not always appreciated; but 
in cold, damp gardens it forms the keystone of 
success in the production of good crops of nearly 
every kind of fruit. Another important matter 
in the management of wall trees is good coping, 
temporary or otherwise, for protecting the 
blossoms from frost. It is generally discussed 
once a year, and is again forgotten until the 
early flowers remind us that time is on the wing, 
and it is again too late to carry out the good in¬ 
tentions formed after the sharp frost of the pre¬ 
ceding month of May. It is not for me to advise 
the kind of protector, as circumstances alter 
cases, but I may say I give preference to portable 
glass lights 2 feet in depth, which can be taken 
down and stored away as soon as the fruit is set 
and safe from spring frosts; and as there is now 


been added a moderate amount of leaf-monld, a 
material in which Mignonette, in common with 
most other soft-wooded plants, makes roots more 
freely than in loam alone. After this the plants 
should be kept in a light, airy pit with an 
ordinary greenhouse temperature, never allowing 
them to get too cold. 

Lachenalias. 

Many who force these pretty bulbs allow them 
to remain too long in the same pots without 
either giving them more room or dividing the 
clumps ; the result is that they become too much 
enfeebled to flower freely. If means have not 
been taken to correct this before they have 
started into growth, the balls may be turned out 
of the pots and divided, each into three or four, 
without more disturbance of the roots than can 
be avoided; drain the pots sufficiently, use soil 
thoroughly enriched with rotten manure, and 
add enough sand to allow the water to pass 
freely through. 

Trop-eolums. 

Tubers of the tricolor section will now be 
about commencing growth; as soon as this is 
apparent they ought at once to be repotted. They 
thrive in either peat or loam, but it should be of 
a good open character, and as these plants require 
directly they commence growing to have whatever 
support they are to receive in the way of a trellis 
to train them on applied, it is necessary to put 
them in the pots in which they are to bloom ; on 
this account it is requisite to be careful in the 
application of water until the new roots begin 
to move freely in it. Give them a light position 
in the greenhouse and look diligently for the 
appearance of green-fly. 

Fuchsias. 

Young plants struck about the end of July or 
beginning of August, if not already transferred 
to the pots in which they are to remain for some 
time yet, which should be 5 inches or C inches 
in diameter, ought, without further delay, to be 
moved into them; use good loam, with about 
one-feurth or one-fifth of leaf-mould added, which 
will assist their rooting freely through the winter 
they ought to be kept all but touching the glass 
in a night temperature of about 50°, and syringed 
overhead two or three times a week, so as to 
keep down any red spider that may be about 
them. For though this pe6t does not increase 
much during the winter, still it is so partial to 
Fuchsias that it sometimes gets established on 
them at this season. Old examples that have 
done flowering should now be sparingly watered 
to induce a state of rest; when the leaves are 
partially fallen they may be cut back as close 
as it is deemed advisable to shorten them, and 
if a corner can be spared for them in a house 
or pit out of the reach of frost they will be 
better if the soil is not allowed to bee 'me quite 
dry; so treated, they will not be subject to so 
much loss of root, and will start away much 
freer when submitted to a little warmth after the 
turn of the days. If subjected to a sort of 
semi-dark treatment, such as under a green¬ 
house stage, or where there is insufficient light 
for any healthy growth to bo kept up, the soil 
may be allowed to get quite dry. 

Roman Hyacinths. 

Where these were potted early they will by this 
time have made plenty of roots, so as to admit 
of their being moved into heat previous to ex¬ 
posing the crowns, which will be in a blanched 
condition when taken from the material 
which they have been plunged. They should 
be shielded from the full light, for if suddenly 
exposed when in this state to its influence it 
has the effect of crippling the foliage. After 
they have been thus gradually brought to bear 
its power they are better for having a light 
position, especially if subjected to a high tern 
perature, for in forcing these and all other 
plants it is well to bear in mind that wherever 
much heat is used the amount of light should 
bo proportionate, with enough air on all favour¬ 
able occasions. Only by these counteracting 
influences can the growth be kept sufficiently 
short and stout. T. B. 

Spring Bedding 

Where soring gaiety has to be studied, no 
time should be lost in clearing out the summer 
bedders aud giving the necessary dressing to 1 a period of barely four months before us, my 
and digging over of the beds. This can now be j duty will have been performed when I say now 
done without mucli sacrifice, as, although theie is the time to set about making, purchasing, or 
has not yet been sufficient frost to out off many ' providing protectors for next spring. It will not. 


i 

i 


I 

! 

3 

I 

i 

I 

* 

1 

* 

■ 

I 

I 

'i 

i 

j 

i 



Oct. 20, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


371 


however, be well to put them np until they are 
actually wanted, as constant protection makes 
the trees tender and more liable to bd injured 
by severe frost. When the usual routine of root 
pruning and planting of what may be termed 
modern trees has been brought to a close, there 
generally remains a large section formed of old 
friends in the orchards which would well repay 
the smallest favour, and as many of the trees 
are profuse bearers, the old-fashioned plan of 
taking away the surface soil down to the roots, 
and replacing it with a rich mixture made up of 
fresh turf, manure, charred refuse, road scrap¬ 
ings, or almost anything that can be got to¬ 
gether for the purpose, will have the desired 
effect in increasing the size and quality of the 
fruit. We will assume that the ground is pro¬ 
perly drained and the heads of the trees well 
thinned out to let in sun and air, but if these 
matters are not satisfactory, the dead months 
now before us will be profitably employed in 
making them so. 

Pruning and Nailing. 

Where the winter dressing of fruit trees forms 
a heavy item, an effort should be made to get 
the work forward before severe weather sets in, 
as the work can be performed in a better manner, 
and the early removal of all superfluous matter 
exposes the trees and walls to the cleansing in¬ 
fluence of frost and rain. With us the Currant 
is now ready for pruning; then will follow the 
Plum, the Cherry, and the P.aspberry. The latter 
will have the canes securely tied to stakes or 
trellises, the shortening back being deferred 
until later on, and a good mulch of rotten manure 
will make all safe for the winter. Peaches and 
Nectarines we always prune as soon as the fruit 
is gathered; the shoots are then neatly nailed in 
close to the wall to ripen, and nothing more is 
needed until the time arrives for unnailing and 
drawing the branches away from the walls to 
prevent the buds from getting too forward. To 
prevent the shoots from being injured by wind a 
few stout Ash rods are placed in the border 
1 foot from the base of the wall and bowed in to 
the coping. Every part of the tree is then washed 
with strong soap water or a solution of Gishurst, 
8 ounces to the gallon of water; the shoots are 
tied up in small bundles and made fast to the 
rods, and the walls are left quite clear and ready 
for cleansing with a wash made of quicklime, 
linseed oil, and Venetian red mixed with boiling 
water. One quart of oil and a pound of Venetian 
red to every gallon of wash will produce a warm 
old brick-red colour when dry, and to avoid 
having two shades of colour, a sufficient quantity 
for the season should be mixed up at once. If a 
fine, dry day is selected for applying the wash 
and working it into the old nail-holes, the 
enemies which usually attack and cripple the 
first spring growths will be destroyed, and the 
chances will be two to one in favour of useful 
early shoots getting thoroughly ripened before 
the following winter. In modern gardens where 
the walls are well built, a brine or Quassia wash 
may be preferred; but where they are centuries 
old and bricks of every conceivable shape and 
colour have been introduced, a wash made np of 
materials fatal to insect life produces a cheerful 
effect, while it increases the chances in favour of 
better crops of fruit. IV. C. 




Vegetables. 

Take up and store all roots forthwith, except 
Parsnips, which are better left in the ground. I 
find of all the varieties of Parsnips, Maltese to 
be the best; it is short, but thick, and does not 
take one half the time to lift that the others do. 
The quality is also quite on a par with that of 
Hollow Crown or The Student, the two varieties 
usually grown. Fill up blanks in the Cabbage 
quarter, and keep the hoe moving among all 
growing crops. Lettuces for spring cutting may 
now be planted, and the latest quarter of spring 
Cabbage. Endive should now be lifted as 
wanted; we put in a few at a time in any out- 
of-the-way comer, bHt under cover, plunged in 
any light material, sprinkling powdered charcoal 
all over the plants ; no decay then takes place, 
and they blanch beautifully. Cut all unripe 
Tomatoes, and lay them singly on shelves placed 
above hot-water pipes in the late vineries, where 
they will ripen nicely. I find the smoother 
fruits to be preferable to the ridged ones. Out¬ 
side Mushroom beds should be kept quite dry; 
ours are semi-thatched with long rough grass. 
Wheat Btraw is not warm enough, bqt dried 
grass teased out makes the beskof a" 


jof rl^pj^BBJ. 


A mat thrown over all adds to the cost, but payB 
well in the long run. Keep a good supply of 
Mustard and Cress, and on favourable days tie 
up Lettuces. Finish earthing up Celery; we are 
now using the produce of our first or early 
sowing. E. G. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


SINGLE-FLOWERED WILD CLEMATISES. 
Althouch the new and large-flowered kinds of 
Clematises are very beautiful, it is questionable 
whether in many instances they are so useful as 
some of the small-flowered wild species. C. 
Flammula, or Fragrant Clematis as it is called, 
for example, is one of the best of London plants, 
and if planted in any ordinary garden soil will 
quickly clothe a verandah or porch with a wealth 
of green foliage and pretty sweet scented blos¬ 
soms. Its white flowers are produced in great 
profusion from July to October. It is deservedly 
one of the commonest in cultivation, being per¬ 
fectly hardy, and continuing in bloom until late 
in the autumn. It is not so much injured by 
rough weather, and in the smoke of London we 
have seen it thrive perfectly. The Traveller's 
Joy (Clematis vitalba) will quickly grow to a 
height of 25 feet or 30 feet, and if not quite so 
ornamental as some of the other small, white- 
flowered species, it has its uses in covering un¬ 
sightly brickwork, &e. The feathery flowers 
persist for a long time, and give the plant a very 



Virgin's Bower (Clematis vitalba). 


attractive appearance. From this circumstance 

it has got the name of Old Man’s Beard ; it is 
also called Lady’s Bower and Virgin’s Bower. 
C. montana, with its wreaths of beautiful white 
flowers, is also excellent for associating with 
Ivy or other climbers on fences and buildings. 
It is indeed one of the best hardy species, 
flowering towards the end of April and begin¬ 
ning of May, when few other species are in 
bloom. It is a vigorous, rapid growing climber, 
forming quite thick stems in the course of a few 
years. The white flowers are clustered in the 
axils of the leaves, each one being borne on a 
stalk longer than the leaf. The variety in culti¬ 
vation has white fragrant flowers about 2.1 inches 
in diameter, but there are wild varieties in which 
the flowers are tinged with pink or yellow, and 
sometimes as much as 4 inches in diameter. 


EARLY-FLOWERING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
As I have made the culture of these my special 
study for seven years past, I may be able to say 
something useful to those who wish to grow 
Chrysanthemums in the open garden without 
baviDg all their season's labour lost in one night 
by frost. The merit of the early-flowering 
Chrysanthemum is that though naturally flower¬ 
ing early, it can be had late if it is desired, and 
just so late and so early as to bloom at the end 
of September and during October, and so fill a 
gap in the flower season before the late sorts 
come in and after the bulk of the summer flowers 
are past their beauty. I may fairly say that 
nobody knows their beauty or utility until they 
have grown them. For instance, the rapidity 
with which they come to perfection and bloom 
from the time the cuttings are put in. I thi s 


season put in some cuttings of Early Curiosity 
on March 27, and the first flower opened June 7, 
about nine or ten weeks. Nanum will bloom 
in spring and summer in about twelve or thirteen 
weeks ; many of the late ones take about that 
number of months. For the open garden we 
want a dwarf plant of stout growth, with a 
flower that has a petal stout, thick, and durable. 
Many of these early sorts have all these qualities, 
besides many others, and new varieties—improve¬ 
ments on the old sorts—are coming into culture 
every season. I have about a dozen new sorts 
this season, many of them a most distinct 
advance on any sort in cultivation before. These 
can be had at the best nurseries. The new sorts 
are rather high in price the first season or two, 
but no' private grower is very likely to want a 
large number at first, and so long as you 
get good sorts with their true names, the 
cost, if a little more, is well spent. Au¬ 
reole is not a very satisfactory plant. 
Madam Piccol is the same colour and much 
earlier, and there is a red sport of it called 
Mr. Piercy, which is the best early red unless 
I’ompone Toulonsain is preferred. Frederic Pelfi is 
a good colour, but a shy bloomer, and not a robust 
plant. Curiosity is a better flowerer, but not so 
robust a grower as old Illustration, which is the 
Marie Longarre of the French, and Illustration 
is a more profuse bloomer. Delphine Caboche— 
the LaNymphe of some and the Miquellon of tho 
French—is a robust grower and free bloomer, but, 
without extreme care and good culture, will show 
a green eye. The New Anastasio, although 
perhaps not quite so much of a violet, is a very 
much better flower, and a handsomer plant; in 
fact, is a distinct advance on any of the kind 
and colour we have had before. 

Cassy, that is Early Gassy, for there is a late 
one of that name, is not so good as Madame 
Piccol, the same colour, but it is a more robust 
plant. I have an Orange-yellow sport of it, 
which is the best thing of the kind yet in exis¬ 
tence. It is a fine robust, stout plant, fit to stand 
wind, rain, and storm, and still be beautiful. It 
is of course scarce at present, as this is its first 
fixed season. Golden Button is simply rubbish 
beside Precocity, called also Toby and Caboche 
by the French. 

The plant now being sold as Le Luxembourg 
is better known as Sirs. Wood, it is not the 
original Luxembourg, which was a very poor buff 
kind. It is a fairly good one sometimes, but has 
few perfect flowers on it. Lucinda is only one of 
the many names and strains of old Illustration. 
Mr. Watson’s Captain Webb is the most extreme 
strain towards pink. Illustration is sometimes 
quite white and called Snowflake. Madame 
Castex Desgrange is, I think I may say, 
the finest of all the summer bloomers. If the 
cuttings are put in the first of May it will bloom 
in October. It can be grown as a show plant, as 
Mr. Davis, of Camberwell, London, did it for tho 
Crystal Palace show at the end of August. Mdllc. 
J olivart is a very excellent plant, but will be 
replaced in many respects by the new Mrs. 
Cullingfnrd, which the flower resembles, but I 
think Mrs. Cullingford, will prove the most 
valuable plant, though it is not such a dwarf 
grower. Scarlet Gem or Little Bob is the Dr. Bois 
Duval of the French. It is the best of the colour, 
but it is a poor weak little thing, and many find 
it difficult to grow. It seems to like a gravel sub¬ 
soil, with a rich light top soil. Souvenir d’un Ami 
is a fair white one. It is the St. Mary of the Rev. 
F. Freeman and many others, but it is not so 
good as nanum, or as the new Lavallfie. St. Mary 
is best as a spring-struck plant; it is too tall and 
weak if struck the summer before, as all these 
should be if they are desired to bloom at their 
earliest capacity. The new White Virginia, not 
Virginale, which is a very late one, is another that 
is likely to be as good or better than St. Mary. 
Virginia is rather a slender growing plant, but 
has great promise. 

St. Crouts, or Saddington (the l’ollion of the 
French), is the same colour as Early Cassy, but 
a better plant—one of the very best; a most 
profuse bloomer, dwarf, and strong both in stem 
and petal. Lyon is another new French one. It 
is the very best of the colour ever imported,and 
though a little the colour of Anastasio, it is a 
much fuller flower, as well as larger than that. 
It is a kind of pink crimson. Zenobie is another 
as good as new-, as it seems known to very few. 
It is a good little orange-yellow Pompone, does 
not grow more than about a foot high, the 
flower's an inch across, and very early Another 




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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
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Oct. 20, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


373 



any garden, and they are so easily propagated 
and preserved through the winter that the 
merest tyro in gardening can manage them 
Many of them succeed in the open borders 
planted out in rich deep Boil. Some of them 
may be wintered in frames, potted into small 
pots. Now is the time to add to the collection 
or to start a new one. The plants can be sent 
to any part of the British empire at this season, 
packed np in a small compass. As soon as they 
arrive it is best to pot the plants, and place 
them in close frames until they have drawn 
rools. Even if the plantB are intended for the 
open border, it is safer and better to establish 
them in pots first. See that they are free from 
greenfly, and that no wireworm is in the soil. 
This troublesome pest makes sad havoc of the 
choice plants if one of them gets into a pot.— 
J. Douglas. 

lo*24.— Iilllum oandldum — •• R. F." has 
received bnlbs from Holland, which he says are 
soft and shrivelled, and enquires whether to 
plant at once, or keep them until spring. My 
reply is, plant at once, and, if procurable, put a 
good handful of Bea sand right over the bulb, 
for I find that even shrivelled bulbs soon regain 
their plumpness when thus treated. At the same 
time, it cannot be too widely known that this 
lovely Lily is nearly, or quite, an evergreen, and 
to take it out of the soil and dry it off is the 
most ruinous practice that can be followed. Of 
course, in the case of imported bulbs, it is abso 
lately impossible to avoid a certain amount of 
drying and loss, but it should be minimised as far 
as possible by packing in some damp material 
in the same way as Lily of the Valley, Spirsea 
1 iponica, and other roots that do not stand 
dryiog are treated, for to pack Lilies in dry 
husks of any kind like Crocuses, Tulips, and 
Hyacinths, is a mistake. But there is really no 
need of getting these withered bulbs, for not 
only as good, but better, can be grown at home, 
as in light sandy soil they increase rapidly. The 
treatment I find produce best results is, to take 
up the bulbs in September, or as soon as the 
flowers have faded, and juBt as the fresh leave; 
are starting, divide them carefully, and replant 
without delay. Four or five bulbs of equal size 
in a clump make a grand display, and if planted 
in different aspects such as most gardens afford, 
by choosing a warm, sunny border for some, and 
partially shaded and sheltered ones for others, n 
prolonged season of flowering will bo the result, 
— James Groom, Gotport. 

- Plant at once, in good, rich, deep 

soil, and in a position where not exposed to 
very high winds. The leaves are easily damaged, 
which makes the plants unsightly. Single 
Anemones may also be planted now or early 
in the year.—J. D. E. 

10439.— Summer-flowering Ohryaan 

themums.—These are propagated either in spring 
or late autumn, taking the young sucker-like 
shoots which spring from the crown when about 
4 inches long. The best time is about October 
or November, or indeed earlier if cuttings can 
be obtained, but as a rule they are not formed 
b -fore that time, as then they make roots during 
the winter, and are ready to plant out in March, 
making good blooming specimens the same year. 
Dibble the cuttings into 44-inch pots in light, 
very sandy soil, giving good drainage, and keep 
t hem in an ordinary greenhouse, unless they can 
have the accommodation of a warm house until 
rooted, when they must be instantly removed to 
cool quarters, or they may be pricked in free 
I soil in a cold frame. Plant out in well-stirred 
and enriched soil the first week in April, stop¬ 
ping about twice to induce a bushy habit. We 
Relieve them to be quite hardy in the north of 
iogland, but by taking cuttings annually a'l 
inger of losing the stock is obviated, indeed, 
iany case there should be annual propagation, 
a the old plantB are liable to die away, caused 
stetimes by over-flowering.—J. C. B. 

0432. — Seedling Date trees.— The young 
pints being in the ground should at once be 
tskn np and put separately into small pots in 
fi b»us loam and leaf-soil in equal proportions, 
addog plenty of silver sand. They may be 
kept through the winter in an ordinary green- 
lOtueor in aroom.and when they have made more 
ea vas and filled their pots with roots, they should 
•e shifted into larger pots. Under cool cultur , 
0 ever, some years are required to bring them 
> decorative size. They reotflrfe a warm, mofct 
,use in spring, with a eons^tjt^iijD ■«tb* 


60° to 70°, and to be plunged in a hotbed, when 
they come along quickly.—J. C. B. 


THE IRIS IN TOWNS. 

Perhaps the best of all summer-flowering town 
plants is the well-known German Iris, or Blue 
Flag. This plant is now in many instances 
made a feature of in many London gardens, in¬ 
stead of being allowed to exist on sufferance in 
some neglected and dusty corner. It is one of 
the Tery few perennials which seem utterly in¬ 
different to fog, smoke, and dirt, and thrive as 


or situation without any care whatever, they 
must be considered necessary in every garden.” 
Our illustration represents a very fine variety 
| of the German Iris named I. neglecta Victorine, 
sent to us by Messrs. Barr A .Sons, King Street, 
Covent Garden. 

HOUSE Aim WINDOW GARDENING. 

Flowers and plants In rooms.—A 

good moss of flowering Laurustinus and berried 
twigs of the black variety handsomely fill a 
silver punch-bowl. A large and tall glass is 


Variety of the German Iris (1. neglects Victorine). 

well in the town as in the country. It does not 

look well rising from the bare earth, but should 
be contrasted with round-leaved plants, and for 
that purpose there is nothing better than the 
two common broad-leaved Saxifrages (Megasea 
cordifolia and M. crascifolia), which also do 
well in towns in light, well-drained soil. The 
German Iris should not be cut down as soon as 
the bloom is over, but the withered tips of the 
leaves may be cut off without injury. This 
well-known plant has sported into many varie¬ 
ties, and there is also a large class of allied 
species and varieties which might all be tried 
with success in town gardens. What one of our 
leading nurserymen Bays of these may perhaps 
induce town gardeners to give them a trial: 
“ As a whole they form a group unparalleled 
in beauty; nothing in cultivation can vie with 
them, unless it is the Orchids from the Tropics. 
.Every shade of colour may be found amongst 
“them, and as they will thrive in almost any soil i 


dressed with three or four whole shoots of Alex¬ 
andrian Laurel, and a well arranged tangle of 
Clematis Flammula and Smilax, with some La- 
marque Roses cut frem the ends of long, strag¬ 
gling shoots. A sheaf-shaped bouquet of 
Scbizostylis coccinea, the flower-stems cut from 
a foot to 18 inches long, stands by itself in a 
slender, clear glass. Heliotrope and Sweet Gera¬ 
nium fill alarge bowl—perhaps the last picking 
before frost. A brass dish, broad and deep, is 
heaped with sprays of golden-green foliage of 
Chasselas Vine, with pink Tea Roses loosely 
grouped among the leaves. Pink China Roses 
and flowering Ivy combine well in a grey Ger¬ 
man jar. Yellow French Daisies, with the 
I most golden-coloured sprays of Japan Honey¬ 
suckle, make a bright and cheerful-looking table 
i bouquet. A low, dish-shaped bowl of white 
: china has flowering LaurustinuB cut short, pink 
Japan Anemones and red-tinted leaves of Am- 
pelopsis Veitchi. A silver cup holds Marie 
Louise Violets with their own leaves. In pots 
are Marantas, stove Ferns, and the finely-foliaged 
Begonias. 

10421.— Plante for oaee.— There is nothing 
better for a case in a room than the filmy Ferns, 
of which there are many beautiful kinds, and 
which love the atmospheric conditions they there 
find. Prominent amongst these is the Ktllarny 
Fern, the most easily managed as well as one of 
the most beautiful. Then there are Club Mosses 
(Selaginellas), which are most suitable, notably, 
8. opoda, Mertensi, denticulata, hortensis, and 
coesia; these are just at home in a case, and 
present a very fresh and attractive appearance. 
The soil should consist of good peat in lumps 
about the size of a Walnut, ejecting all dusty 
particles, and mixing with it plenty of silver 
sand and some small pieces of charcoal. In this 
the plants are to be planted, and they wili need 

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374 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 20, 1883. 


bat little water, as the case Is to remain close, 
merely opening it for an hour or so in the morn¬ 
ing. Palms are not suitable for close cases.— 
J. C. B. 


FRUIT. 

SECOND CHOPS OF GRAPES. 

It is nothing uncommon for Yines to pro¬ 
duce bunches of Grapes on the lateral shoots 
produced after the first stopping, but I 
never remember having such a quantity as I 
have had produced this season, one small house 
of late Grapes having produced three distinct 
crops, nearly every shoot from both the first 
and second stopping having produced two very 
fine bunches. It was not from the Vines having 
nothing else to do, as the crop is more than 
double what is set down as a crop by orthodox 
rules of measurement, but the capabilities of 
Vines vary as much as that of individuals, 
and a crop that would ruin a Vine with its roots 
pent up in circumscribed limits is lightly borne 
by one with unlimited root-run. Bnt whether 
a good or bad thing for Vines to manifest such 
cropping propensities, it matters little, as no one 
attempts the second cropping of Grape Vines. 
But perhaps some useful lessons may be learnt 
by observing how second crops behave when left 
on the Vines by accident, as in stopping the 
shoots a few generally escape notice, and the 
bunches grow away rapidly, set and Bwell up their 
fruit as a rule well, and I have usually noticed 
that they colour up well,and do not shank even on 
Vines that- have behaved but indifferently with 
their first crop. There must be a reason for 
this, and my impression is that it is through the 
roots being more active late in the season than 
early, for there can be little doubt but that 
many of the tender feeding roots perish in the 
winter in cold ungenial soils, and it takes a long 
time for the Vine to recover the loss, for that they 
will make a certain amount of leaf-growth without 
any assistance from the roots at all is evident 
from the fact of shoots or eyes inserted as cut¬ 
tings making shoots and leaves when introduced 
to heat, before they make any roots, and estab¬ 
lished Vines that are but indifferently rooted 
generally start well, bnt about the time the 
bunches appear they come to a sudden stop, 
and their progress for some time is very slow, 
doubtless from the roots being less active than 
the tops and not able to keep up the supply of 
sap necessary to promote a regular and even 
growth. Borders that are liable to get saturated 
with water during the winter months are 
liable to show the effects of feeble root action 
the most plainly, for towards the latter part of 
summer, when the Vines ought to have com¬ 
pleted their growth and be about to enter upon 
their resting period, they grow away most luxu¬ 
riantly, but fail to ripen that growth, and the 
roots and tops being in close affinity, there can 
be no doubt but that they are of a soft, watery, 
immature nature, and mostly decay during the 
following winter. Where these symptoms are 
plainly marked, I would advise lifting the roots, 
putting in more drainage, and getting the roots 
nearer the surface; they will soon recover, and 
when well rooted and in thoroughly drained 
borders, can hardly be overdone with water 
during the time the fruit is swelling, but during 
the resting period do not ever let them get dry, 
but avoid stagnant water lying about the roots. 
It is an early growth without any check that 
gives the best results, and if the roots are in 
good condition the production of a good crop of 
Grape9 is almost a certainty, provided forcing 
much beyond the natural season of growth is 
not attempted. James Gboom. 

Jtsport. 

A curious apple tree. —There is now 
growing in a garden at Highgate an Apple 
tree planted about the year 1800. It was grafted 
with three kinds of Apples, the Lemon 1’ippin, 
the Orange Pippin, and a third, the name of 
which is not remembered. The tree has con¬ 
tinued to bear yearly, both Lemon and Orange 
Pippins, but the last two or three years the fruit 
has not been so line as formerly, which may be 
owing to a Honeysuckle which grows round the 
trunk of the tree. This year some of the small 
branches seem dying or dead, though there are 
still many Apples on it, even to the topmost 
boughs. This ^ar7 to the astonishment of the 
proprietor and o^t^(ga^der ^/tf«l^lhird kind of 


Apple has appeared for the first time, on a 
branch which looks quite healthy and compara¬ 
tively young. The Apple is roundish, of a deep 
red colour, and of a pleasant flavour.—II ish- 
gatk. 

1012!).— Planting Vines.— In reply to “A 
Novice, - ’ who wants to know whether it is better 
to plant the Vines inside or outside, I would 
recommend planting just inside the front wall, 
but have arches for the roots to run oat, as well 
as inwards, for, as a rule, the roots keep healthier 
in outside than inside borders, from the fact of 
the inside ones getting too dry unless very care¬ 
fully attended to. For an early vinery, the lean- 
to form with south aspect is preferable, but for 
general crop, a span-roof structure is best, as two 
sets of Vines can be grown. Raise the house a 
little above the general ground level, as the roots 
will run out and down into tho good soil outside. 
If the natural soil is good vegetable mould, 
merely trenching it and adding some mortar 
rubbish and bones will be ample preparation; 
then plant one young Vine under each rafter, 
keep them clean, and the growth stopped enough 
to prevent crowding of foliage, and there is little 
fear but that the results will be satisfactory.— 
J. G., Hants. 

10431. — Mulberry trees. — There will 
probably be but little difficulty in getting 
branches of Mulberry trees to root as readily as 
those of Apples, but Mulberries are usually grown 
as standards on grass, as the fruit needs to be 
thoroughly ripe so as to drop from the tree be¬ 
fore it is fit for dessert; therefore the conditions 
of growth are different to those of Apples, which for 
small gardens are best as dwarf bushes. Any 
nurseryman will procure standard Mulberries, 
and their cultivation is simple enough, viz., dig 
out a large hole, and if the subsoil is bad, take it 
out, and replace with good top soil, then return 
the good soil, plant, and stake securely. If in a 
meadow or orchard, where cattle are allowed to 
graze, see that a substantial fence is erected high 
enough to prevent the cattle getting at the shoots 
or stem. The Mulberry is not a very rapid grow¬ 
ing tree, but when once established it makes a 
very handsome one, lasts for many years in 
good condition, and seldom fails to produce a 
crop of fruit.—J. G., Hants. 

10437.— Currants and Gooseberries 

for fences.—" C. YV. Emay rely on getting 
good crops of both Currants and Gooseberries if 
the bushes are trained on palings with south¬ 
west aspect. The best way is to train one shoot 
right and left, and from these erect shoots to 
the top of the fence about 9 inches apart, the 
plants being 3 feet or 4 feet apart. Of sorts, I 
find the following all that can be desired, viz., 
lied Currants: Raby Castle, Red Grape, Red 
Scotch, New Dutch. White Currants : White 
Dutch, Transparent, and Versailles. Gooseberries: 
(Red) Warrington, Lancashire Lad; (White) 
Velvet White, Whitesmith; (Yellow) Early Sul¬ 
phur, Yellow Bough ; (Green) Greengage.— 
James Gboom, Gosport. 

10384.— Pear tree not fruiting.— To cut 
the head of a fruit tree down 8 feet is a good 
way to cause it to cease bearing. It induces a 
thick growth of vigorous shoots and useless 
spray, quite incompatible with the conditions 
that accompany fruitfulness. The procedure is 
just the opposite to the means that a good culti¬ 
vator would employ to bring an unproductive tree 
into bearing. He (except in cases where barren¬ 
ness proceeds from exhaustion and poverty of 
soil), knowing that the evil lie has to remove is 
the result of over-luxuriance produced by a super¬ 
abundant supply of sap, rationally proceeds to 
curtail this supply by judicious root pruning. 
There are two ways by which “ G. W. M.” might 
proceed to bring his tree into bearing. One is to 
cut off close all the spray, and the superfluous 
branches that crowd the centre. Then as soon 
as the head of the tree has somewhat recovered 
its normal size and shape, proceed to induce 
fruitfulness by root pruning. The next method 
is, to head the tree down and crown graft with 
some sure bearing sort. If the bole of the tree 
be over 7 inches in diameter, the grafts should be 
inserted on the branches sawn off to within a 
few inches of the trunk. The better way would 
be for “ G. W. M." to get a practical man to do 
the job. He would be most likely to get a 
competent person by applying to a nurseryman. 
Of all the Bure bearing kinds of Tears, perhaps, 
there is not one that is more likely to give satis- 
> fac’ion than Louise Bonne of Jersey, as it com¬ 


bines the several qualities that go to make a 
tree valuable in a greater degree than any other 
variety. In this excellent Pear we have vigour 
and habit of growth, fruitfulness, and quality of 
fruit, with a faculty of adapting itself to a 
variety of circumstances and climatic influences. 
Jargonelle, Marie Lousie, Bcurrd Diel, Williams’s 
Bon Chretien and Winter Nelis are also excel¬ 
lent universal bearing varieties.—L. C. K. 

10123.— Apple trees unhealthy. -The 
trees are cankered, owing to the roots having 
penetrated into bad subsoil, or perhaps because 
the soil is not drained. When the trees are very 
bad with it, there is no cure; but iu the early 
stages we would lift the roots out of the sub¬ 
soil. If they are old established trees, it will 
not answer to do the whole of the tree at once; 
rather do one half of it one year, and the other 
half the next. If they are young trees, it would 
be better to lift them quite out of the ground, 
and then trench it 18 inches or 2 feet deep; 
drain it if necessary, and put some fresh loam 
round the roots of the trees. For the young 
trees you intend to plant, the ground should be 
prepared as above.—J. D. E, 

10433. — Pears sleepy. — It is characteristic of 
early Tears to get in this stato within three weeks after 
they are gathered. The only way is to make three 
gatherings from the tree at intervals of eightor ten days, 
and use the fruit as soon os it is ready.—J. D. K 


VEGETABLES. 

Potatoes.— In reading over your corres¬ 
pondent’s remarks from Berwick, I fully endorse 
his opinion as to the remarkable flue crop this 
season. Myatt’s Ashleaf is the best. I have 
had them for a number of years. Rivers's Boyal 
Ashleaf is likewise good. Rector of Woodstock, 
a weak growing variety, has also yielded a fine 
crop of excellent quality; the old Lapstone Kid¬ 
ney with me has done remarkably well, haviog 
the advantage over Myatt's in the following 
respect, that whereas Myatt’s requires whole 
seed, with the Lapstone you cau use the knife 
freely without fear of failure. Of the thirty 
different kinds which I have grown this season, 
I mostly selected the tubers, planting the whole 
or medium-sized ones first, and the cut or divided 
ones afterwards, and I find, except with four or 
five exceptions, that the whole or medium-sized 
ones have produced fully fourteen to sixteen 
pounds more weight to the four pounds of seed 
planted than the cut ones, also the tubers, if not 
quite so large, are of more even and suitable 
size, both for table and seed. On a plot of 
ground newly broken up I planted very late 
eight kinds with the following results : Early 
Mays and Covent Garden Perfection, a nice crop, 
but rather small, presumably by being planted 
too late. To Schoolmaster I gave the best 
position in the plot, but it did not fully answer 
my expectations, being only medium-sized, with 
a considerable number of chats. White Elephant 
turned out some remarkably large tubers, but 
rather inclined to coarseness. Grampians, a 
fine crop of handsome tubers of fine table 
quality. Reading Hero and Magnum Bonum 
I have not yet lifted, being yet quite green, but 
from the appearance of the haulm, which is 
stout and vigorous, I expect a fine crop. I have 
also a variety which I got from a local seeds¬ 
man as an early round variety, named Prince of 
Wales, and which I fail to find in any trade 
catalogue. In appearance it somewhat resem¬ 
bles the Champion, hut clusters more in the hills. 
Of disease I have as yet none, except in one 
variety which I have grown for a number of 
years. I should be glad if “ Berwick" would 
kindly inform mo where I could obtain a few of 
the red skinned kidney he speaks of, as to my 
knowledge I have never seen the variety men¬ 
tioned.—E. D., Yorkshire. 

Tomatoes under glass.—I quite agree 
with what " Ashmore ” says on this subject. I 
potted three or four plants in 12-inch pots in 
early spring, and put them against the back wall 
in the vinery, which I started in February, 
where they did excellent, and did not show any 
signs of disease or failure, the foliage looking 
well up to the present time. From these three 
or four plants I have gathered a quantity of large 
and well-ripened fruit. They were quite ■ 
picture against the wall, and looked well f roc 
the exterior of the vinery; they were admireJ 
by all who saw them. I would recomnuesfj 
gardeners who have not adopted this plan ril 



Oct. 20, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


375 


growing Tomatoes to try them another year. 
All who have a glass structure might, with a 
little patience, get a good supply of Tomatoes. 
Those which I planted in the garden against the 
south wall were from the same seed pot, from 
which I have not gathered one single fruit, and 
I am afraid the season is too far advanced to 
ripen them.— J. T. Hawke. 

10413.— Rhubarb at Christmas.— The 

roots must be taken up at once, carefully lifting 
them and placing them in a warm house or in a 
frame on a hotbed. There is no need to bury the 
roots in soil; the best way is to simply pack 
some litter round them, which is to be kept 
moist, and which appears to exercise a much 
greater stimulative effect on fibre production 
than earth. Underneath a stage in a stove is a 
good place, as when in obscurity the stems run 
up longer and are more tender. In the case of 
an open stage a mat should be nailed along the 
front, and an excellent plan is to cover with 
about a foot of straw, laying it on very lightly 
so that the stalks can push through it. When 
they appear above the litter they will be ready 
for use, and treated thus will be bright, tender, 
and juicy.—J, C. B. 


Wasps and Dahlias.—I read an account 
in Gardening of bees becoming intoxicated 
upon Dahlias. Last year in my garden I per¬ 
ceived that some of the single Dahlias were 
dying. After careful examination, I found that 
the stem, just above the roots, was covered with 
clusters of wasps, almost like a swarm of bees. 
The stem was completely eaten through, only 
leaving the stringy portion of the bark. The 
foliage and flowers were untouched. On dis¬ 
turbing the wasps, they were found to be too 
intoxicated to lly ; they could only crawl slowly. 
Only the single Dahlias were attacked, and of 
these the white singles were untouched.— M. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(miscellaneous.) 

10151— Yarrow In lawns.— One of our 
meadows -was over-run in several places with 
this troublesome Yarrow, and as our cattle would 
not eat it, I resolved, if possible, to eradicate it, 
although I knew it possessed valuable medicinal 
properties. My plan was very simple, but it has 
proved equally effectual. I merely put on 
leather gloves and pulled the stalks up with as 
much of the root as I could without using a 
spade or spud. If these tools are used, a small 
bare patch is sure to follow. I always took hold 
of the stalks quite close to the ground, and gene¬ 
rally there would be about 2 inches of the root 
come up with it; this is, of course, because 
Yarrow roots run along close to the top of the 
ground, and so are much easier to pull up than 
those of the Dock for instance, which grows like 
a Carrot. This course should be adopted at 
once when the Yarrow comes in flower, as it 
appears to spread by means of the seed as well 
as by the roots. It will require doing three 
times during the first summer. Of course on a 
lawn it cannot be allowed to grow long enough 
to flower, so let it be done as soon as it can be 
seen which of the stalks will flower if left. The 
only difference is that when the stalks are in 
flower they are tougher than at an earlier stage, 
and consequently bring up more root. We have 
now not more than a fiftieth part as much 
Yarrow as we had two years since, so that it is 
worth persevering with. I shall be pleased if 
this advice proves useful to any reader of 
Gardening, for it is the actual experience of— 
The.Pipers Son. 

10481.— Auriculas.— There is nothing un¬ 
usual in some of the leaves turning yellow; at 
this season the large outer foliage will gradually 
die off as the plant assumes its winter habit, 
and it should be picked carefully off after it has 
changed colour, taking care not to injure the 
nain stem in the operation. A good compost is 
two parts Btrong turfy loam and one part of old 
utted manure, leaf-mould, and sand mixed 
ngether. Repotting should have been done not 
kter than August. After this period, watering 
aast be done with care. Never give a general 
vat^ring to all the plants in a frame, but only 
sopply those that require it, viz., those of 
wfcich the surface soil haa -become dry. i The 
best aspect will now be fcoutlx J'ht will 
not be too powerful, escejItMn venr^wahn 


localities, where the plants may remain in a cool 
position for a few weeks longer.—K., Hornsey. 

10470.— Carnations and Piootees.— The 

following list comprises three of the best varieties 
in each of the classes:— Carnations : Admiral 
Curzon, George, Mars, scarlet bizarres; Lord Mil- 
ton,Thomas Moore, J. D. Hextall, crimson bizarres; 
James Taylor, Falconbridge, Satisfaction, pink 
bizarres; Dr. Foster, Mayor of Nottingham, 
Squire Trow, purple flakes; Dan Godfrey, Sports¬ 
man, Thomas Tomes, scarlet flakes; Apollo, 
Sibyl, John Keet, rose flakes. Piootees : J. 
B. Bryant, Emily, John Smith, red edge; 
Ann Lord, Nymph, Zerlina, purple edge ; 
Charles Williams, Miss Lee, Edith Dombrain,' 
rose edge. In the above selection I have 
endeavoured to name only those varieties which 
are generally good growers, and have not in¬ 
cluded any very new and expensive sorts.—K. 
Hornsey. 

10438.— Liquid manure.— House slops 
may be used for all growing crops, and even 
for pot plants of a tender rooted nature, if dilu¬ 
ted with water. For vegetables urine may be 
employed at the rate of a quart to the gallon, 
but for flowers, such as annuals in the open 
ground, a pint is ample ; and in the case of pot 
plants not more than half a pint to the gallon 
should be used. A good plan is to pour it on 
the ground in winter where there is no crop, as 
this obviates storing it and dresses the soil in 
readiness for spring. In the case of Clematises, 
fruit trees, or anything of a like nature, it may 
be poured on about them in a pure state in win¬ 
ter, as the heavy rains dilute it sufficiently when 
carrying it down to tho roots. Soapsuds may 
be poured on as they are, not being strong enough 
to harm anything fairly vigorous.—J. C. B. 

10421).— Planting 1 Vines— If the Vines 
are not to be forced to produce fruit earlier than 
August, it is just as well to plant them outside. 
Practical gardeners know by experience that if 
Vines are planted inside near the front wall, 
and if the borders arc on both sides of the wall 
with space for the roots to run outside, by far 
the largest proportion of the roots will be in the 
outside border by the end of the year, sufficient 
evidence that the Vines may be planted out¬ 
side. Early in March is a good time to plant 
them. If they have been grown in pots the 
roots should be uncoiled and laid out straight 
in the compost of the Vine border.—J. D. E. 

10148.— Woodlice In greenhouse.— 

Take several 2£-inch pots and partly fill them 
with dry moss or hay, and lay them on their 
sides in different parts of the greenhouse; the 
woodlice will soon make them a resting place. 
Take a vessel containing boiling water and drop 
the pots in every morning; repeat the operation 
a few times, and the insects will soon disappear. 
A potato is also a very good trap; cut it in half 
and scoop out a hole and lay it on its side.— 
W. K. 

10444.— Soot water. —This is the safest 
manurial stimulant that can be used, and can 
scarcely be employed too strong. The customary 
way is to tie about a gallon up in a coarse can¬ 
vas bag, sinking it in the water by means of a 
big stone. In the course of a few days the water 
will have become sufficiently impregnated with 
the soot, and will at the same time be quite 
clear, which will not be the case if the soot is 
simply mixed with the water.—J. C. B. 

- Soot water is an excellent stimulant for 

pot plants, applied at the rate of two table- 
spoonfuls to the gallon, taking care the plants 
are in active growth when applied, or it may 
prove detrimental instead of beneficial.—W. K. 

10355.— Pern fronds.—I arrange groups of 
Ferns in the following manner. When the ] 
fronds are dry and fit for use, I lay them in 
position on the sheet intended for them, and fix 
them with very narrow strips of the gummed 
paper cut off the outside of postage stamps. 
This can, with a little practice, be put on so 
neatly as to be almost invisible, and is, as far as 
my experience goes, most effectual.—A. C. H. 

10424.— Lllium oandidum.— " R. F.” will 
find it advantageous to plant bulbs of the above 
at once. By so doing the young, fleshy roots 
start at once, and get thoroughly at work before 
spring, whereas by keeping them over the 
winter they gradually deteriorate. Single 
Anemones also are better if planted as soon as 
possible.—W. K. 


10412.—Plants in cold frame.—I give " Amateur” 
a list of cuttings that can be kept in cold frame for 
flower border next spring, viz., show, fancy, and bedding 
Pansies, Violas, Antirrhinums, Pentstemons, Phloxes. 
Calceolarias, Feverfew, Mini uluses, Carnations, ana 
Picotees.—J ohn Jardine. 

10432.—Date trees.—The young plants should be 
potted into small pots in good turfy loam, and a little 
peat added to it, with some rotten, dry stable manure. 
Pot them firmly and prow in a hothoute. They require 
a good supply of water at tho roots when they have 
made some growth.—J. D. E. 

10436.- Propagating: Fuchsias.— A Beginner.— 
Cuttings may be put in now, but it is hotter as you 
suggest to keep the old plants through the winter, aud 
take cuttings from them when they start into growth in 
the spring.—J. D. E. 

10401.—Felicite perpetuelle.—This Rose is a strong 
climber, and flowers best when allowed to ramble at will 
over a fence with very little pruning. The name is nearly 
always wrongly given, as in Mabort” case.—A. B. T., 
East Anglia. 


G. F.—Try Mr. Ware, Hale Farm Nurseries, Totten¬ 
ham.- T. C. D .— We do not name Carnations. The 

blooms sent were very pretty. The Parsley also was 

very good, but we could see nothing special about it.- 

T. F. 0 .—We do not think your neighbour is bound to 
buy your fence, neither is he bound to put up a fence in 
the place of yours, if you pull it down. 

A. J. W .—Get a piece of board or stilf paper and 
cover it with paint or tar • hold it over tho plant, then 
shako the plant, and the Hies will rise upwards and stick 

to tho board.- Olivia .—The fruit of Pyrus japonica is 

sometimes made into a jelly, but it is of little or no 
value. 

Names of F’rult.— John ITousc .—1 and 2. Blenheim 
Orange ; 3, Springrovo Codlin ; 5 aud C, Cox’s Pomona. 

Names of pi an ta —Rusticum —Justicia speciosn. 

- S. II. — Staphylea pinnata. — T. J. 11.— 1, Oxalis 

Valdivl.ma; 2, Funkia lancifolia; 3, Agathica cude*Us ; 

4, Out of season.- Mrs. Reid .—Geranium sarguineum. 

- A. Ballard. — Abutilon vexillarium variegatum ; 

other specimen not large enough.- Mun Pcllat.— 

Snowball Tree. (Virburnum Opulus), not poisonous.- 

Miss Gulch .—Escallonla inaerantha- T. L.—\, Aspl- 

dium angulare proliferum ; 2, Send a frond with sporeB • 

3, Species of Teucrium.- R. Ji. Naim.— 1, Species of 

Artemisia ; send when in flower ; 2, Saxifraga emspitosa; 

3, Saxifraga ceratophyllu ; 4, Sedum retlexum- L. U. 

—1, Saxifraga llgolata; 2, Stachys lanata; 3, Wistaria 

sinensis.- C. E. Dram. —J, Cystopteris bulbifera; 

these little bulbils, by dropping or being laid on the 
ground, produce young plants ;2, Athyrium Filix-fcemina 

cristatum- W. F.— 1, Cheilanthus elegans, shrivelling 

up now for want of heat; 2, Fteris ereticu; 3, Cyrto- 
ruiurn anomophyllum. \e. 2 and 3 have no reason to 
turn black as they do unless they be in a bad state at the 
roots. Re-pot them at once and keep them on the dry 

side, aud they will start afresh in early spring.- 

Anon. — 1, Poteutilla pedata ; 2, Carex acuta ; 3, Aster 
lajvis var. ; 4, Mirabilis Jalapa.— J. H —Your seedliug 
Ferns promise to be good, hut we cannot name them yet. 

- Miss Parkins .—Thalictrum aquileglfollum.- H. T. 

—Next week.- J. It. J. — Cotoneaster Simonsi.- 

Rev. H. R. J .—Helianthus decape tains.- J. L .— 

Odontoglossum grande (a fair variety).- G E. W.— 

1, Lobelia syphilitica; 2, Campanula fragilis; 3, Species 

of Geranium; not in a condition to name ; 4, Aster 
Novm-Anglim pnlchellus.- F. II. —1, Ambis aibida ; 

2, Sedum spurium : 3, Aubrietia deltoidea; 4, Hedera 

ltfogneriann.- C. D .—Funkia grandiflora. Too tender 

for flowering in the open, except in very favourable 
localities- Miss Denison — Physallsalkekongi.— Peter¬ 

head .—Kerria japonica llore-pleuo. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents. —A ll comnumica* 
tions/or insertion should be clearly and concisely xeritten 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
and address qf the sender is required, »n addition to any 
nom do plume fo be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title qf the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece qf paper. Owing to the necessity qf 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day qf publication, it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

Naming* plants. —Four plants, fruits, or flowers only 
can be Jiamed at one time, ami this otily when good 
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to namo 
varieties qf florists' flowers , such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
specialist who has the means qf comparison at hand. Any 
communication respecting plants or flowers sent to name 
should always accompany the parcel. 

10483 —Earwigs in Apples. — The other day in 
gathering some of our choicest Apples we made the 
discovery that nearly all the fruits were literally per¬ 
forated by the runs that a number of earwigs had made 
in them. Out of one Apple 1 shook no less than six 
common-Bized earwigs, aud on cutting another open I 
found it contained either nine or ten of these pests, and 
nearly all were more or less infested by them That 
was last Saturday, aud now, on Tuesday, I find six Apples 
quite rotten, and the others following the same end. We 
have five other trees which bear exactly the same kind of 
Apples, but the earwigs appear to have confined their 
operations to this one tree. Of course, it is becoming a 
serious matter to have the best of our fruit, the kind, 
too, which ordinarily keeps longer than any other of our 
dessert Apples, ruined in this way. It must have been 
the earwigs, for I noticed nothing else on or near the 
tree whicli would be likely to work nuch havoc. There 
were hali-a-dozen different holes in many of the Apples, 
running to tho core : through it,, and out at the opposite 




376 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 20, 1883. 


side, holes just large enough to admit an earwig or a fly, 
but not nearly large enough for a waap. Advice as to an 
easy and cheap, or at any rate practicable, mode of rid¬ 
ding the trees of these abominable pests will oblige.— 

1 he Piper’s Son. 

10489.—Bull ding? an unheated greenhouse.— 

I wish to build an unheated greenhouse, and should be 
very thankful for a little advice ; first I have two lights, 
12 feet long by 7 feet wide for the roof—a span one ; on 
the north will be a wall as high as the roof rises from; 
the front, sooth, and sides will be brick wall, H feet or 2 
feet high, and then glass moveable lights for ventilation. 
At present the ground is planted. Can I plant Roses, 
Clematis, Fuchsias, and Heliotropes In the eirth against 
the wall—other plants in front of them—with any hope 
of their doing well, or must the ground be made firm and 
arrange plants in pots or stands with a path down the 
centre for chairs or to walk on? Perhaps I ought to say the 
ground lies high and open, but protected from the rough 
west winds by a small group of shrubs. 1 want to have 
a succession of flowers such as “ Ashmore ” speaks of in 
the last few numbers of GARDENING. I have a large 
garden, but being so exposed to the sea wind my flowers 
are often destroyed, so I wish to have a house only to 
protect what are called common flowers, ’and wish to be 
able to do most of the work myself. 1 shall be most 
grateful for any information.—B. C. 

10190.—HeatingT by gae. —I have a small greenhouse 
(12 feet by 8 feet), and shall be much obliged if someone 
will tell me the most economical way of heating it. It 
is cloEe to the house, and I was thinking of having gas 
laid on from theie to heat the water ; but I fear this 
would add considerably to the gas bills. What would the 
heating apparatus cost with tho fixing, Ac., and what 
would the cost of gas be ? 1 do not propose to use the 
house for forcing, but simply to keep plants in through 
the winter, so the house would only require sufficient 
warmth to keep the frost out. Last year I used an oil stove, 
but cannot say I found it a success, as it turned the leaves 
of the plants black. At present the greenhouse Is use¬ 
less, for it 1 b bo damp that the plants go mouldy and 
decay. The bottom of the house is of ballast with cinder 
ashes on top. Would it be drier if it had a different 
bottom, and if so, what would be cheapest and best ? 

G. B. F. 

10491.—Edible fungi.—Will some reader of G arden¬ 
ing kindly give his opinion on the fungi of our woods 
and pastures, as many of them are said to be good for 
food ? I have tried three or four different shaped ones 
this antumn, and liked them when cooked, but I took 
very little at first, and finding no bad effect next day, I 
took a little more, and so on ; and now I am not afraid to 
eat those 1 have so far proved to be harmless, but in 
trying any fresh sort, I should proceed as cautiously as 
before. But I really think it would lie a good thing if 
we could get to know good ones from bad or poisonous 
ones, as they are so very plentiful, and our Mushroom is 
bo very scarce. I would like to ask, Is there any way of 
knowing good from bad without running the risk of being 
made ill ? But, in case of accident, what is a good thing 
to take ? I shall consider it a favour if someone will 
kindly say, and how it should be taken.—WOODS AND 
Pastures. 

10492.—Peat charcoal.—It has occurred to me that 
someone among the numerous readers of Gardening 
might be agreeable to impart the secret of producing 
good clay charcoal, that is to say, to produce a material 
that will act as an absorbent, yielding readily to the 
pressure of one’s fingers, and not, afterburning, to be 
os hard as a clinker. If, as l believe, this can be so pro¬ 
duced, it surely must be invaluable where 'house 
drainage and other waste matter is offensive at times 
during the hot weather ; anil I cannot help thinking, 
too, it must be a very desirable admixture to the farm¬ 
yard as a manure: I have, In fact, read or heard of it 
at some time or other, but have no practical knowledge 
on the matter.—H. Primp. 

10493. — Blight In Strawberry plants, 
peculiar bllaht has attacked some of my Strawberry 
plants, which neither my gardener nor myself have ever 
seen before. Perhaps some of your readers may be 
acquainted with it, and can suggest the cause and its 
cure. It appears to spread from the Btalk of the leaves 
to the plant itself in a thick mass.—M. A. K. 

10494.—Auriculas.—I should be glad if some prac¬ 
tical person would give a chapter on the treatment of 
the Auricula, both the hardy and show kinds. I have a 
score or more in pots, and although they are healthy and 
aome showing bloom, I feel anxious about them, as I am 
Inexperienced in their management, having cultivated 
them one winter only.— auricula, 

10495. — Forcing? Snowdrops. — Will someone 
kindly give me instructions for forcing Snowdrops? At 
present I have them potted, some in the greenhouse, 
and some in a cold frame plunged in ashes and covered 
with sawdust. Instructions how next to proceed to have 
a succession of flowers from Christmas onwards will be 
very welcome.—D igby Grand. 

10496.—Disease in Lavender plants.—Would 
some correspondent kindly give an opinion as to this 
disease, as it has appeared In the “ 


_ _ ___ i Lavender plants this 

fast few yeara? The* plants seem first to decay just at 
the junction where they branch, and then die away. 
Young and old suffer alike, no matter whether the soil is 
rich or poor.—P uzzled. 

10497.—Rose cuttlnffs.-l have about two hundred 
cuttings from my Roee trees (Gloire de I>ijon, John 
Hopper. Ac.) in my hothouse. I have put about one 
dozen in each pot; they are now beginning to throw 
green leaves. Should they be transplanted into separate 
pots at once, or should they remain until next spring?— 
J. 3 . 

10493—Improving? soil —I have a garden the soil 
of which is only 9 inches deep; the subsoil Is a sort of 
sand and clay. As soon as the roots of plants reach this 
they make no more progress, but seem to be at a stand¬ 
still. Advice how to work would much oblige. I do 
not much mind the expense, I wont to do it well.—C on¬ 
stant Reader. 

10409.— Flnely/flo*ered Ltiluml—1 have a L. aura- 
turn in an Sinclipot, iful i ! i< 1)1 Iran; with between 
sixty and seventy miwlA, lei .nlns toifllwge and compact 


truss ; the stem is flat, widening out at the top. Is not 
this quite an unusual number at flowers from one bulb ? 

—S. G. P. 

10600.—Japanese Maples.—Would some reader in¬ 
form me what is the proper treatment for Japanese 
Maples? I have several choice varieties in pots, and aa 
they are now going off I ahoold like to know if they 
would I>car taking from under glass and planting out for 
the winter.— Japonica. 

10501.—Buibs laft in the ground —I notice much 
in Gardening about the advisability oi leaving Tulips 
and Hyacinths in the ground all the year. I should be 
glad to know whether it would do to plant these bulbs 
so deep that Geraniums, Petunias, <&c., might be planted 
above them in the summer. —P. L. A. 

10502. — Renga-renga Lilly. —I have a Rengarenga 
(or N. Z ) Lily raised from seed in a pot, and it has 
grown well, but five or six young ones have appeared 
round the base. Should these be cut off ? Would they 
probably grow if carefully cut off aod potted?—HBRB- 
TATJHOA. 

10503.—Pruning- Yew trees —Will some reader of 
Gardknino Inform me when is the proper time to prune 
Yew trees, and if it would be dangerous to cut within 
4 feet of the bole trees between seventy and ninety yeara 
old which have been very much neglected ?—J. \<. W. 

10604.—Training Currant trees.—Last November 
I stuck in the grouud under a north wall six cuttings of 
red and white Currants. They have all struck and 
thrown out long shoots. I should like to know when 
and how they should be pruned and trained.—PATIENCE. 

10505.—Sowing Hellanthuses and Heliopsis. 

-t have just received some seeds of the Helianthus 
rigidus and Heliopsis scaber. When should those he 
planted and how treated? I have no greenhouse or 
frames. —W. H. B. 

10500.—Cutting? sods and planting bulbs —Is 
this the proper time to cut and lay Grass suds? 11 bulbs 
of Snowdrops aod Crocuses are now planted and covered 
with 2-ioch or 3 inch soda, will they strike through the 
sod, or will it be too much for them ?—G. 8. S, 

10507 —Vines and hot-water pipes.—Can any 
one tell me whether a Grape vine fa likely to be in¬ 
juriously affected by the hot-water pipes leading from the 
furnace to tho greenhouso coming close to the roots oi 
the vine?—J. B. 

10508.—Covering walls In vinery.—I have a 
vinery (not heated) 20 feet by 12 feet, a lean-to, due 
Bouth ; the back wall Is 14 feet high. What use (if any) can 
I make of this wall 1 Would a Peach tree thrive there, if 
so, what kind would he best f—D octor. 

10600.—Lichen in pots.—Will any correspondent 
inform me whether Lichen growing thickly on t he surface 
of the Boil of Camellias in pots Is injurious to the plant ? 
liso, howls It to be removed without injury to the 
roots ?—R. A. 

10510. —’Aconltum japonicum. — Ts this plant 
poisonoua like the common Monkshood ? I should like 
to have it In my garden, but am afraid my children might 
come to grief.—T. J. W. 

10511.—Protecting Strawberries.—Ought Straw, 
berries to have any protection from the frost in winter, 
and what is the best material for the purpose ?—Black 
Frinoe. 

10512.—Scorzonera.—I have a bed of Scorzonera 
that grew and looked well at the beginning of the 
summer, but has now all run up to seed. What should I 
do with it ?—CONSTAKT READER. 

10513.-Carnations and Pansies—I should be 
very glad if someone will give me the names of a few 
Carnations, PlnkB, and Pansiea tor exhibition.—A 
Cottage gardener. 

10514.—Spiraeas — I hsve some large clumpa of 
Splrfca japouica growing outside ; when should they be 
potted, and what kind of soil is suitable for them?— 
F. S. 

10515.—Thinning evergreens—I should bo much 
obliged for information as to the proper time for trim 
ming and thinning evergreens, such as Portugal Laurels, 
Laurustines, Ac. ?—JUANA. 

10516.—Plants for covering walls.— Would not 
Ceauothus azureus or C. pallidus be better than Eseal- 
lonia rubra for covering walls, aa it grows rapidly, and I 
think is uninjured by frost ?- Subscriber. 

10517.—Bougainvillea glabra.—Can anyone in¬ 
form me how to strike cuttings of Bougainvillea glabra? 
I have tried the ordinary way, but have not succeeded. 
—Flora. 

10518.—Grapes shanking.—Why do Grapes shank 
off after they are ripe, particularly the white ones? 
W. H S. 

10510 —Spring! Cabbage. — What la the name of 
the earliest spring Cabbage, and when the latest time of 
planting?-J. £. B. 

10520.—Grapes cracking.—Tho fruit of my Madres. 
Held Court vine has cracked. What is the reason ? It 
did the same last year.—G. R. 

10621.—Iron dust for plants —What plants conld 
be benefited by the use of iron dust or filings, and how 
should It be applied ?—E. S. T. 

10522 —Storing Apples.—Any Information as to the 
best way of storing Apples will greatly oblige.—W. F. 

16523.—Roee election.—Will someone kindly give 
the result of this year’s Rose election t—J. W. 


half early in spring. The antnmn root-pruned 
ones showed no signs of starting into growth 
until late in the following autumn, and some 
never did start; whereas those operated upon in 
spring burst their buds, blossomed, and bore a 
good crop of frnit the same year. Since then I 
have kept a sharp eye on all such operations, and 
have been convinced that spring is the proper 
time for lifting, transplanting, and root-pruning 
all deciduous trees and shrubs, if not evergreens 
as well. Wounds inflicted on the roots of 
deciduous plants in autumn do not heal and 
form rootlets before spring, as some assert, hut 
in most cases decay until mild weather causes 
the plants to develop their buds ; then a struggle 
ensues for mere existence, as the decomposing 
roots do not readily form feeders, and then the 
vitality of the plants in many cases is gone 
before they are able to do so. Those similarly 
operated upon in spring have not time to decay 
before active growth calls into use the principal 
organs of nutrition; the fresh wounds soon heal, 
the plants the while only suffering such a check 
to their development as is essential to their 
fruitfulness.—F. F. 


Spring v. autumn planting.—A good 
deal has been written of late regarding the 
transplanting and root-pruning of shrubs and 
trees. About fourteen years ago I assisted at 
the root-pruniDg of two rows of cup-trained 
Apple trees, which lined the sides of a centre 
walk in a garden in Forfarshire. One half of the 
trees were root-pruned in autumn, and the other 


LIBONIA FLORIBUNDA. 

Few plants better repay the care of the flower 
grower than this; and yet, although its culture 
presents no great difficulties, one seldom sees it 
grown to anything like perfection in private 
gardens. Such a bright and effective winter- 
blooming plant Bhould be largely and well 
grown, and it would undoubtedly be better if 
some of the care which is bestowed upon more 
tender subjects were given to this Libonia, 
which, flowering freely during the dull months 
of the year, may be justly regarded as a friend 
in need. This plant is extremely well grown 
by the London and Parisian market growers, 
and it may interest some of your readers to 
know something of the method pursued by them. 
Young plants being preferred for market pur¬ 
poses. 

Cuttings are struck as early in the year as 
they can be obtained. The usual method of 
obtaining succulent cuttings from plants of a 
woody nature is pursued—that is to say, old 
well-established specimens in -JV-inch or C inch 
pots are placed in warmth somewhere during 
September, previously cutting them in rather 
hard, as the shoots which start from the firm, 
well-ripened wood are stronger than such as 
would form at the extremities of tho fall-grown 
branches of the past year’s growth. Very little 
water is needed until the plants come well into 
growth, allowing the soil to dry out between 
each watering, and when the shoots have two 
pairs of leaves they will be in right condition 
for taking off. Insert them, a dozen together, in 
4J-inch pots prepared in the ordinary wey, and 
if the temperature is maintained, as is the case 
in propagating houses, at from 60° to 70°, they 
will be rooted in less than three weeks, and will 
be ready to pot off in something over a month 
from the time of insertion. Let the 

Soil bo light and well sanded, pot rather 
lightly, and if kept in a warm genial atmosphere 
as near the glass as possible, they will quickly 
fill the pots with roots, and will by May be 
ready to go into 24-inch pots, this time giving 
them rather more “substantial food, say two- 
parts loam, if very fibrous, to one of leaf-mould, 
with a dash of silver sand and a little well- 
rotted manure added to it. As a great deal of 
the beauty of this plant depends upon the 
formation of a dwarf, compact, bush-like habit, 
stoppin g the leading shoots from time to time m ust 
be attended to, and it is important that the en¬ 
couragement of lateral development, be 'com¬ 
menced at an early period—as soon, indeed, as 
the newly-formed plant begins to feel the power 
which a rapidly-increasing root action gives, or if 
pushing strongly upwards, the tender points of 
the stronger shoots must be nipped out, taking 
care never to pinch either just before or just 
after shifting, as when root disturbance is ac¬ 
companied by defoliation, however slight, there 
is sure to result a check which may have an evil 
effect upon the after progress of the plant. 
Therefore, manage the stopping so that thel 
lateral shoots which are thereby encouraged are 
well on their way before the roots are placed ir f 
fresh soil. Root action and top growth will thei 
act and react on each other in such a manned 
that no stoppage either at ;op or bottom take) 
place. The roots will almost immediately gratf 


Oct. 20, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


377 


the new compost, and growth will be free and 
continuous. This may appear an unimportant 
detail, but it is really of much consequence, and 
I have know a fine lot of plants to be much 
checked when the leading shoots were freely 
pinched on transferring them to larger pots. By 
keeping the plants growing freely in a genial 
temperature, always bearing in mind that suffi¬ 
cient air must be admitted to keep them sturdy 
and short-jointed, they will by the beginning of 
June be well established in 2i-inch pots, and 
may then be transferred to their summer quarters, 
which should be a frame in a sunny exposure, or 
a light house. Frames are decidedly best, as 
the I.ibonia is benefited by complete exposure to 
the air in the early autumn months when 
maturing its growth, and it may be laid down as 
an absolute rule in the culture of this plant that 
the greater amount of sun and air it gets when 
finishing its growth, the more plentiful and good 
will be the bloom it gives in the winter season, 

Potting— The last shift should be given by 
the middle of July, using this time loam, fibrous 
and not too heavy, one half, the remaining por¬ 
tion toconsistof leaf-mould and well-decomposed 
manure iu equal parts, with about one-eighth of 
the whole bulk silver sand. The strongest plants 
may go into 6-inch pots, the remainder into 
a sice smaller, and where plants of all sizes are 
required, the last struck batch may remain in 
2^-inch pots, giving them as soon as root-bound 
a top dressing of Clay's manure. These little 
specimens are very useful for jardinieres, or for 
any purpose where a number of plants are to be 
crowded together into a common receptacle. 
Libonias,as before mentioned, require muchlight, 
so that but little shade is needed, but they are 
grateful in very hot weather for a thin screen 
daring the hottest hours of the day, discon¬ 
tinuing it from the beginning of September. 

Watering. —Being strong-rooted, they need 
plenty of water at all times, and in hot, dry 
weather should be well syringed twice a day, 
damping down and shutting up about four 
o'clock in the afternoon, but putting on a chink 
of air for the night. When the weather is calm, 
in cool weather they may remain closed, whereas 
if the nights are balmy and dry. they will be 
much benefited by the sashes being withdrawn 
the night through. The advantage of a few 
nights' exposure to plants of this description is 
very great. It imparts lustre and depth of ver- 
dnre to the foliage and vigour and substance to 
the wood, strengthening the constitution of the 
plant to the extent of enabling it to bear with 
comparative indifference the close atmosphere 
to which it has to be subjected later on. About 
the last week in October they should be removed 
to a light position in a bouse where the tem¬ 
perature is maintained at from 50° to 60 °; but 
where a large number of plants are grown some 
portion of the stock should be kept in a cool 
house until the turn of the year, or indeed they 
may remain there to bloom, for the Libonia is 
by no means tender, and only requires more 
than cool house temperature when required to 
bloom during the winter months. Small growers 
may grow this plant to much perfection in an 
ordinary greenhouse, but as they have not the 
means of pushing the young plants along in 
spring they should have older specimens to start 
with. If young plants are procured during the 
summer or autumn, so that they get estab¬ 
lished in small pots, they will be ready to shift 
into larger ones about April, and, brought along 
carefully, will make good ilowcrlng specimens. 
Plants which have bloomed should be pruned 
back about March, or when they go out of bloom 
if later, but not earlier than that, watering very 
sparingly until young growths push again. When 
these arc about 2 inches long shake away all the 
old soil, and replace in pots just about large 
enough to contain the roots, as not having much 
foliage, there is no need to give them a great 
deal of soil, the object being rather to induce 
free root action. With care in watering and a 
genial temperature the roots will soon become 
masters of the small amount of earth awarded 
’.hem, and, having made considerable shoot de¬ 
velopment, they may then be shifted into larger 
pots, treating them in every way as recommended 
tor young plants. The following year they may 
igain be managed in the same way, but the 
letter plan is to throw them away after the 
scond year, as by putting in a few cuttings 
every year a stock of healthy vigorous plants 
will be always coming along. Byfleet. 

Digitized by GOOglC 


ZONAL PELARGONIUMS FOR POT 
CULTURE. 

The Zonal Pelargonium is becoming more popu¬ 
lar as a pot plant every day, and when well 
grown it is very useful and attractive for winter 
decoration, both for cutting from and conserva¬ 
tory work, and with proper attention will last a 
considerable time. For culture in pots, cuttings 
are taken early in February’, two of each sort 
being put into a 3-inch pot, and if placed on a 
shelf iu a vinery that has been started a few 
weeks, or any other convenient structure at hand, 
they will strike freely. When Btruck they are 
potted off singly into 3-iuch pots, and put back 
in their former place for a week or two, when 
they may be hardened off. When well rooted 
through the compost, they may receive a shift 
into 4-inch pots, and in J une they can have their 
final shift into ffiinch pots; and when they have 
again established themselves, they are benefited 
much by being placed out of doors in a sunny 
place for a few weeks. They thus soon become 
sturdy plants to be brought into the greenhouse 
in the early part of September, or as soon as the 
nights become cold. Up to this time all flowers 
are picked off, and the shoots are stopped twice, 
and after this they may be allowed to flower, 
which they will continue to do until the spring 
if care is taken to pick off all decayed leaves 
and flowers. We find weak liquid manure twice 
a week very beneficial to them. We find the 
best compost to consist of two parts good yellow 
loam, one part leaf-mould, and a little silver 
sand. I find a little of Clay’s fertiliser mixed 
with the compost at the final shift very bene¬ 
ficial. 

The following is a select list of varieties which 
I think worthy of cultivation. 


Singles. 


Aphrodite • 

• magenta 

Apple Blossom - 

- white, shaded with rosy pink 

Burns .... 

- light scarlet 

Bacchus ... 

• deep magenta 

Brunhild a • 

• light scarlet 

Colonel Seeley 

• scarlet with white eye 

Circulator • 

- rose-scarlet 

Cleopatra - 

- magenta 

Commander-In-Chief - 

- a rich scarlet 

David Thomson - 

- deep crimson 

Drapeau tricolor - 

- purple-scarlet 

Dr. Rawson 

- crimson 

Evening Star 

- white ground with pink eye 

Eureka 

- white (fine for winter) 

Fanny Catlin 

- rosy salmon 

Ferdinand Kauffer 

- magenta-purple, orange- 
scarlet in upper petals, 
tine variety 

Guinea 

- orange-yellow 

Costive Morlet - 

• salmon 

H. M. Pollett - 

- deep crimson 

Henry Jacoby 

• very dark crimson 

Hettie .... 

- rosy magenta 

Hermia 

- rosy red 

J. C. Musters 

- crimson 

Jeanne d'Arc 

• white with pink shade 

John Gibbons 

- orange-crimson 

Jean III ... 

- pink with shaded purple 

Kleon .... 

- deep scarlet 

Kate Farmer 

- rosy salmon 

Lizzie Brooks 

- rosy scarlet 

Lucy Bosworth - 

- bright rose 

Lady Sheffield - 

- rose-magenta, shaded violet 

Llzzard 

- rose-salmon, bright ring of 

red 

- maroon, crimson edge, white 

centre 

Marm ion 

Mrs. Pearson 

- rosy salmon 

Mary rearson 

- rosy scarlet 

Mrs. Leavers 

- deep pink 

Mrs. Wright 

- soft pink 

Mrs. Strutt - 

- pink, shaded purple 

- bright crimson, white eye 

Mrs. Gordon 

Mrs. W. B. Miller - 

- bright scarlet 

- tinted scarlet 

Rienzl 

Right-ahead 

- dark crimson 

Sophie Birkln 

• mottled salmon 

Titania 

- crimson-maroon, white eye 

Zelia 

- rich crimson, tinted purple 
and orange, enormous 
trusses 

Doubles. 

Candidissimuro plenum 

- pure white 

Circe .... 

- deep crimson 

Colonel Flatters - 

- bright magenta, shaded 

Den fort Rochereau 

orange 

- one of the best doubles 

F. V. Raspail 

- deep scarlet 

Henri Beurier 

- salmon, white border 

Jeanne d’Arc 

- white 

La Niagra 

- white 

Madame Thibaut 

- shaded lilac 

M. Buchler - 

- deep purple 

Madame Leon Dalloy • 

- blush-white 

Rosa Bonheur 

• rose-piuk 

Souvenir de Caatille - 

- magenta 

J. P. Stahl - 

- clear salmon 

Femside , Ficldey. 

E. Wilson. 


Propagating Chrysanthemums.— As 

soon as cuttings can be had they should be taken, 
as they will form a considerable amount of roots 


during the winter, and will be ready to go into 
small pots or be planted out in March. Warmth 
is by no means necessary in Chrysanthemum 
propagation, as the cuttings root freely in 
ordinary greenhouse temperature, or even in a 
cold frame, dibbling them in the soil and just 
protecting the frame with a mat or two in severe 
weather.— Byfleet. 


THE GREAT APPLE SHOW. 

It is satisfactory to note that the great Apple 
show at Chiswick is likely to prove a success. 
It is patronised not only by those who seek in¬ 
formation, but also by the general public, though 
it must be admitted that there is but little 
in a display of Apples to attract those who 
are not fruit growers. The committee told off 
for confirming and rectifying the nomenclature 
still continue their work—a formidable task in 
the case of such a vast gathering. As was 
expected, there is a large percentage of un¬ 
known, or rather local, varieties to which names 
known to all have not and probably never 
will be given; neither would it be desirable 
to do so, seeing what a host of sorts uni¬ 
versally acknowledged to be first-rate are in 
cultivation. The committee will deserve credit 
if by their exertions they can reduce the syno- 
nomy, which is in a most confused state. The 
work is being prosecuted day by day, and in the 
process some interesting facts come to light. 
For example, the name Golden Pippin does ser¬ 
vice for a multitude of dishes in the show, but 
comparatively few contained the genuine variety, 
Yellow Ingestre and Golden Harvey being among 
others substituted for it. If the whole of the 
exhibition can be gone through thus systemati¬ 
cally by the naming committee, and the result 
of their labours efficiently reported, as it should 
be, the congress will not have been held in vain. 
That there is a prodigious quantity of varieties 
of Apples now in cultivation throughout the 
country is evident by this exhibition alone, and 
that there are far too many is also apparent. If 
a judicious reduction of sortsoould be carried out 
as satisfactorily as the question of synonomy 
will apparently be, it would be a great boon, but 
any kind of abridgment mast be done most deli¬ 
berately. A large number of varieties of Apples 
must always be grown so that every particular 
climatic condition may be complied with as 
well as the important one of soils, but scores 
of worthless sorts might be well expunged 
from the lists—worthless because surpassed 
by sorts of better quality, and it should be 
one of the aims of this exhibition to point 
out which are the best and most profitable 
kinds to grow. 

The official report of the committee, which 
we await with interest, will, we understand, 
give the correct name of every sort of Apple sent 
to the exhibition, together with its synonyms 
and by whom shown. For this purpose Mr. 
Barron and his staff have drawn up lists of the 
contributions of every exhibitor, classified ac¬ 
cording to the counties. It would perhaps be 
too much to expect that in every case the cor¬ 
rection of the committee will be heeded; for 
who among the nurserymen, for example, would 
care to admit that such and such a variety had 
been distributed by them under a wrong name. 
We should like to see the report embody lists of 
sorts best suited for large and small gardens, 
the most suitable stock for each, the form best 
adapted for their growth, and the best kinds for 
particular localities, whether they be sheltered 
or exposed, inland or on the seaboard. 

The question of limitation with regard to a 
model collection for a garden of a given size is of 
coarse not easily settled, as individual require¬ 
ments have to be complied with. But there are 
numbers of amateurs who would welcome lists 
of sorts most appropriate for small gardens with 
a short description of each variety, its quality, 
use, and order of ripening. In going through 
the exhibition one cannot fail to be struck with 
the enormous collections of sorts shown by 
many of the exhibitors, both nurserymen and 
private growers. One can well understand bucU 
great trading firms as Veitch, Bnnyard, the 
Pauls, Cheal, Lee, and others growing large col¬ 
lections in order to supply their multitudinous 
demands from all parts, but the case is different 
in private gardens, where only the best should 
be admitted. Of course a collection, to meet 
the demands of a great household must be large, 
and such are the collections from Frogmore, 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 









3/8 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 20, 1883. 


Burghley, Sherborne, The Deepdene, Wycombe 
Abbey, and others, but they are probably not a 
whit too large. In the case of the Royal 
Gardens, Frogmore, we know that the col¬ 
lection, consisting of upwards of 150 sorts, shown 
by Mr. Jones, is not redundant. When Mr. 
Jones first took charge of the lloyal Gardens 
there were only about 70 sorts of Apples at 
Frogmore ; since then he has doubled the collec¬ 
tion as regards sorts, and, moreover, finds it 
necessary to keep continually augmenting it by 
new sorts, including seedlings raised on the place, 
in order to meet the supply required for the great 
household at Windsor. One of the principal 
outcomes of this congress should be, we think, 
a complete type collection for the Chiswick gar¬ 
dens, which in future should be the recognised 
standard for all matters concerning the nomen¬ 
clature of Apples. Not that the collection as 
it now is is at all a meagre one; on the contrary, 
Mr. Barron furnishes the largest and finest col¬ 
lection in the show, numbering, as it does, no 
fewer than 270 distinct sorts, all legibly and 
correctly named, each label also indicating the 
stock and form of tree best suited for each 
sort. Having regard to the comparatively small 
space for open-air fruit culture at Chiswick, this 
collection is among the most remarkable in the 
whole show. Type collections of not only Apples, 
bnt all other fruits grown at Chiswick, would 
make the garden what it should be, and it would 
then stand in the same relation to pomology as 
Kew does to botany. 

The exhibition will remain open till the 
18th, and gardeners in particular would do well 
to inspect it. They will see some wonderful 
produce from trees of every shape and form. 
Especially no ticeable is a grand collection from 
cordon-trained trees at Barham Court, Maid¬ 
stone—a form of training not half practised 
enough in gardens of limited area. It would 
serve but little purpose to enumerate in detail 
the exhibits from each particular county, as 
only an approximate idea would thus be ob¬ 
tained of the Apple-growing districts. Thus, 
in some of the counties wholly unrepresented 
we know there are admirable Apple orchards of 
great extent. Again, because there is not a 
single exhibit from Ireland, it must not be in¬ 
ferred that Apple culture there is not extensively 
carried on. Naturally, the metropolitan coun¬ 
ties show most numerously, and we notice 
that the nearer the gardens, orchards, and nur¬ 
series, the larger the collections therefrom. 
Among the sorts that seem to attract general 
interest are Lane's Trince Albert, Saltmarsh’s 
Queen, Peasgood’s Nonsuch, and Washington, 
the latter shown by Messrs. Bunyard. Our 
comments on the show will be resumed after 
the committee have completed their work of 
naming and correcting. 


BOSES. 

New Tea Bose Sunset.— This new 
variety is a sport from Perle des Jardins, 
obtained in the winter of 1880 by Mr. Peter 
Henderson, of New York. It is identical with 
it in every respect except in colour ; instead of 
being of a canary yellow, it is of a rich shade of 
saffron orange, deeper than that of Madame 
Falcot. It has maintained the vigour and 
abundant flowering of the type, except that the 
colour of the young foliage is of a much deeper 
crimson, thus contrasting beautifully with the 
flowers.—J ean Sisley, Monplgisir, Lyons. 

Pot Boses. —Just a word to say that these 
are not infrequently injured from two causes at 
this season of the year, viz., mildew and too 
much water at the roots. The first must be des¬ 
troyed by flowers of sulphur; and in order to 
prevent injury from heavy rains, the plants 
should be sheltered in a greenhouse, or by some 
glass lights put over them. Tea Roses ought 
not to be placed out-of-doors at all, as they 
flower so freely and so continuously under glass, 
but they must be quite close to the glass roof at 
this season.—J. Douglas. 

WUlIamB’s double yellow Bose—I 

have sometimes seen this named Persian Yellow, 
hut both in flower and habit of growth it greatly 
differs from that variety. The yellow Rose 
to which I refer was raised by Mr. Wil¬ 
liams, of Pitmaston, about 1826, and was 
said to have been raised from the single 
Austrian Brier. This Rose is rarely to be found 
in Rose listo^and there must surely be 

Digitized by GOOgle 


some reason for the omission, as the tree is very 
distinct In appearance from the Persian or Har¬ 
rison’s Yellow; the flowers are larger and it 
contiuues longer in flower. I would be glad to 
know the cause of this old-fashioned Rose fall¬ 
ing out of the lists of Roses worth growing.— 
Chas. McDonald, Stoiesley . 

La Prance. —There are but few, if any, more 
useful Roses than this. It thrives either on the 
Brier as a standard, or on the Manetti as a dwarf 
plant, and it grows and flowers freely in a pot on 
its own roots. However, I cannot get it to grow 
so well as I could wish. As a pot plant it is all 
that can be desired, though it appears to require 
two or three years to thoroughly establish itself. 
After that it is capable of producing some 
splendid flowers if gently forced, so as to come 
into flower about the middle of April. Like many 
other varieties, this Rose is, as a rule, pruned 
much too severely when grown as a standard. I 
find a little shortening back of the longest 
branches, and a little thinning out of the old wood, 
to be all that is necessary. This Rose always 
gives us two full crops of flowers. As soon as the 
first is over, the dead (lowers are cut off, and the 
roots receive a thorough soaking of manure water. 
In six or seven weeks another crop of flowers 
appears, very little inferior to the first. Its merits 
in other respects are too well known to require 
further comment.—J. C. O. 

Bose lists.— In Gardening for October G, 
one of these is given in reply to “Gang For¬ 
ward," and is a proof of the utter worthlessness 
of such lists where soil, climate, and situation 
are ignored by both parties. For instance, Paul 
NOron is quoted as not perfectly hardy, and 
Camille de Rohan as answering all “ Gang For¬ 
ward's ” requirements. I find Paul N6ron one 
of the hardiest Roses we can grow; it is in 
bloom now (October 11). I prefer Souvenir de 
la Reine d’Angleterre, because it has all the good 
qualities of Paul Neron plus a very sweet scent, 
in which the latter is totally deficient. Camille, 
de Rohan is so tender here that I hardly ever 
get a good bloom off it; but for its peculiar 
colour, I should give it np. Francois Fontaine 
is nearly as dark and far better. These Roses 
are all growing in a strong clay loam, well 
drained and no trees near, situation high, and 
cold in winter. We grow about one hundred 
sorts, and about eighty give excellent results. 
Homer I find most unsatisfactory, as a single 
day s rain in July spoils every bud.—A. B. T. 
East Anglia . 

BIBDS. 

Offensive parrots.— Would any reader 
having a Knowledge of parrots kindly tell me 
the cause of an offensive smell which proceeds 
from a bird I have, also a cure if any 7 Great 
care is taken to keep the cage perfectly clean, 
and the bird appears lively and healthy in all 
other respects. I have no doubt that the 
nuisance proceeds from the body, as it scratches 
a good deal about the head and neck.—R. S. 
Parrot plucking Its feathers. — 

F. S. J. —The reason why the parrot picks ont 
her feathers is because you give her too much 
Hemp seed, which is heating. Leave it off, also 
the Maize, and instead of soaked bread give 
boiled Indian Corn cold, fruit, nuts, and the 
kernels of plum stones, &c.—A. N. 

Siskin unhealthy.—Will someone with 
experience tell me what is the matter with my 
siskin, and how to cure him 7 He sits puffing 
out bis feathers and gasping. Is it asthma 7 
Every few minutes he gives a sort of little chirp, 
as if clearing his throat. He is not moulting 
now. I feed him on canary and rape seed, poppy 
seed as a treat, green food, and bread soaked in 
milk. I was recommended to give him glycerine 
and tincture of gentian in his water; is ic safe to 
do so 7 Lately I have put saffron in it.— Mina. 


POULTBY. 


Fowls plucking their feathers.— 

AT. M. A .—If fowls have too much animal food, 
the quills of the feathers become more or less 
charged with blood, which the birds in time 
perceive, and almost invariably peck at each 
other’s plumage till they leave the skin quite 
bare. Malays have a great propensity for this 
evil habit. I should advise plenty of Lettuce 
and green food of every kind minced np fine and 


mixed with the soft food. If these remedies 
fail, tie a piece of scarlet flannel round the neck 
of the fowls. They would most likely be too 
frightened to go near each other.—A. N. 

Tankervllles.—This is the high sounding 
name given to a breed of fowl by Mr. James 
Howard, M.P., and to which he attaches great 
importance as being good layers and excellent 
table fowl. They are the result of a cross 
between Cochin and Game. We cannot, how¬ 
ever, see the advisability of studying a cross¬ 
bred bird and devoting our energies to it, when 
so many pure breeds are to be had which will lie 
found to answer all purposes, both useful and 
ornamental, and a fancier must be very 
fastidious indeed if he cannot choose from 
among the many breeds now in existence one 
which will suit liis taste as well as the climate 
and conditions under which they are kept. In 
all new and manufactured varieties, every 
fancier knows the annoyance occasioned by tie 
chicken constantly showing some signs, either in 
plumage or other points, of the original parents, 
and not in accordance with the standard of 
excellence of the new variety.— Andalusian. 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 

Pickling Red Cabbage — The following 
is unquestionably the best way to pickle red 
cabbage : Choose a nice, plump, dry cabbage, 
break off any damaged outside leaves, then cat 
the remainder into slices. Put a In - er of cabbage 
in the jar, and sprinkle on tb>- thin layer of 
allspice, whole pepper, bruised ginger, and a 
pinch of salt, and if liked, two or thieechillies; 
then pnt another layer of cabbage, spice, to, 
until the jar is full; then pour over all enough 
vinegar to thoroughly cover it. Tie down closely, 
and in about a fortnight or three weeks it will 
be ready for use. Any one trying this way will 
never return to the old-fashioned way of half- 
rotting the cabbage in salt for two or threedays 
before putting it into vinegar.— Fehndale the 
First. 

Mushroom Ketchup.—Would some reader give 
moa good recipe for making mushroom ketchup? Itiave 
just made some by a recipe from a well-known cookery 
book, and the result la not at all to my satisfaction.—Nit 

DKSPKEANIiUM. 

Savoury pudding.— Gan any reader of Gardenim 
tell me how to make a savory pudding, such as is made 
in and about Halifax, Yorkshire, and eaten with roast 
pork ?- Housewife. 

Sugar Corn.—Would someone kindly tell me hov 
to cook sugar corn i —Isis. 


TTOOPER’S GARDENING GUIDE.-“An 

H unfailing source of information and delight.” Numbsr- 
leas other readers testify to its being the most useful, enter¬ 
taining, and cheapest work in onr language. 2 b. Ed. pest tiet 
is. Ild.—HOOPER k OO.. Oovent Garden and all honkseilns . 

■RULBS FOR THE GREENHOUSE AND 

WINDOW.—254 for 21s., viz., 18 choice Hyacinth?, X 
Tulips, 9 Narcissus, 75 Crocus, 12 Jonquils, 12 Scillas, 50 Snow¬ 
drops, 24 Hepaticas, 6 Ixias, 6 Sparaxis, 3 Gladioli, 1 Cycla¬ 
men, 1 Lily. I Dielytra. Similar selection, of 125 for 10a W. 
Forwarded carriage and package free on receipt of remit¬ 
tance, by HOOPER k CO., The Covent Garden Seed Ware¬ 
house, London, W.O._ 

TTJEITCH’S collections OF BULBS, to 

V suit all requirements, for pot culture or planting 
arranged on the most liberal scale at 10s. 6cL, 21 b., ard42a- 
JAMES VEITCH & SONS, Royal Exotic Nuneiy, Chela* 
8.W. _ 


SPECIAL OFFER OF CHOICE PLANTS, 

O all delivered free at quoted prices to any address in the 
United Kingdom. Satisfaction guaranteed or money returned. 
Three winter-blooming Eupatorium riparium, nice pl»p& 

Is. 2d., free; six choice named Chrysanthemums, all diffe¬ 
rent, Is. 2d., free ; three Grevillea robusta. charming Fen- 
like plant, unequalled for table decoration. Is. 4d. in*, 
small, healthy plants; climbing Fern, Is. 2d., free; gok* 
Fein, la. Id., free; 12 Carnation plants from seed,lx 3d, fi«: 

2 nice plants Adiantum nuneatum (Maiden-hair Fern), lx • «-• 
free; two Japanese Honeysuckle, beautiful variegated 
foliage, Is. 2d. free ; queen of Ferns, Adiantum farleyenic. 

Is. 4d., free ; beautiful marbled foliaged cold house Orchid. 
Goodyera pubescent Is. 4d., tree, gem for fernery or ten 
case; double white Primula, Is 6d., free; Pteris lonrifou* 
and Eteris cretica, the two plants. Is. 2d., free. These Fern* 
are of very easy culture.—MORLEY ft CO., Fnlwocd, 
Preston.____ 

TtAISlES, Spiiog transplanted.—Bride, white; 

Rob Roy. red ; London White and Striped, Aurienla 
seedling*, Saxifrage. 4d. duz., 3s. 100; extra plants far r £*fl -° 
ria ge.—F. NEWBERY, Raglan House, Wolverhampton. ; i>‘10 

TyUSIKS, double white, red; Snapdragonsand 
U Brompton Stocks, 6d. dozen. 3a. tkL 100 : Gold-isred Poly 
anthua, Is. dozen; all good plants, free. — EDWARD 
MARGERE.30N, Barlow, Chesterflejd._ . j 

ANEMONE JAPONICA ALBA Bonorinej 

Jobert. threo for Is. 6<L, 4s. dozen ; LUium candidnm.l 
4d. each, 3a. dozen; Poet's Lily, 6iL dozeu.—STAGG AM>1 
CO.Hulme.__ _17S0W 

JERSEY ROSES.—i'2 beautiful standard Rosea 

O sent to any address, carefully packed, carriage paid trl 
London, on receipt of Post Office order for 13b. ; two dozofl 
for 25s.-JOSHUA LE CORNU ft BON. Riffb View NurJ 
series, Jersey. 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Voi,. V. 


OCTOBER 27, 1883. 


No. 242. 


HOUSE AND WINDOW GARDENING. 

MAIDEN-HAIR FERNS IN WINDOWS. 
Maiden-hair Ferns are favourite room and 
window plants, and questions are often asked 
as to their culture under such circumstances. 
Undoubtedly the best way of cultivating any 
plant is to approach as nearly as may be to the 
natural conditions of its growth; but it is ob¬ 
viously impossible to imitate the still, moist 
atmosphere of a rocky cave, or of a broken- 
down disused well in Southern Europe, where 
the Maiden-hair (Adiantum Capillus-veneris), 
naturally clings to the mouldering joints of the 
oozing masonary, or drapes the dripping crevices 
of the living rock. Impossible as it may seem, 
however, we know that grand plants of this and 
other Ferns have been grown with no better 
accommodation than an ordinary window will 
afford, and we are forced to come to the con¬ 
clusion that it, is culture and care more than 
advantages of position, that produces such good 
results. But something may surely be gathered 
for our guidance from the natural conditions to 
which reference has been made. For example, 
we may guess that a perpendicular foothold on 
a rock or wall, while allowing for abundant 
coolness and damp, must prevent stagnant 
moisture from lodging at the root. It is also 
probable that in the sheltered nooks in which 
these lovely delicate Ferns are found growing 
naturally, that they are equally safe from stormy 
blasts and chill cold draughts as from dry 
scorching heat; yet they must necessarily have 
plenty of light, air, and ventilation. In our 
treatment of Maiden-hair Ferns, then, it seems 
but reasonable that we should keep these three 
points well in mind, and avoid all extremes of 
drought, draught, and burning sun. The fol¬ 
lowing suggestions for the room culture of 
Maiden-hair and other Ferns may be found of 
use :— 

Repotting. —The best time for repotting 
Ferns is, perhaps, the month of February, be¬ 
fore active growth has begun, but any conve¬ 
nient season during the first quarter of the year 
will be found suitable. Should the Fern need 
dividing, the earlier it is done the better, and 
the best way of making the division is to cut 
straight through the root with a sharp knife. 
This does far less injury than tearing the plant 
asunder, as is often done. The pots used should 
not be larger than necessary to hold the Fern, 
and thorough drainage should be carefully pro¬ 
vided for. In potting, the soil should be pressed, 
but not too firmly, round the roots, though loose 
potting is seldom conducive to the well-being 
of any plant. For most kinds of Maiden-hair 
(Adiantums), peat with a certain amount of 
coarBe, sharp sand to keep it open, is generally 
found to be the best soil to use. Some kinds of 
peat naturally contain more sand than others, 
and do not require so much to be added. Many 
Ferns, however, such as Asplenium bulbiferum, 
the different kinds of Pteris, and most of the 
hardier British and foreign species, do better 
with an admixture of good loam in the compost. 
The addition of small pieces of charcoal to the 
soil can never do harm. Many people, indeed, 
who have only a few plants to care for, make a 
practice of uBing it in preference to any other 
crocking material. Charcoal is beneficial in 
several ways. It ensures thorough drainage, its 
antiseptic qualities help to keep the soil pure, 
and it is much lighter than the broken sherds 
commonly used, thus making the pots In which 
it is employed more easily portable. It should 
be broken up into pieces about the size of a 
Filbert. 

Watering. —It has been found a good plan to 
nse a double pot for a fine specimen plant of 
Maiden-hair, filling in the intermediate space 
with sharp sand or very fine gravel, which may 
bo kept constantly wet. There will then be 
much less danger of the plant suffering through 
unavoidable (not to say careless) neglect in 
watering. Dryness at the root will inevitably 
cause the fronds, and especially the young 
growth, to shrivel without hope of recovery. A 
thoroughly good watering once a week ought to 
suffice for a Fern thus kept in a double loot, and 

Co gfe 


the evaporation from the wet sand would create 
a certain dampness of atmosphere about the 
plant which would greatly tend to its luxuriance. 
It is very difficult, however, to lay down any 
distinct rule as to watering. Experience alone 
can teach, and it generally happens that a 
novice passes from an extreme of wet to an 
extreme of dry treatment before he finally 
settles down to the right course of giving water 
only when it is needed, and then enough and 
not too much. In one respect the treatment of 
newly potted Ferns differs from that of other 
plants, for they should always be watered at 
once, whereas in most cases it is better to leave 
a newly potted plant for at least twelve hours, if 
not longer, without water, in order that its 
broken rootlets may have time to heal. Maiden¬ 
hair Ferns do not like being syringed over¬ 
head, though it may become necessary, on 
occasion, to free them from the dust which is 
almost unavoidable in a room. 

Position. — A homely but useful frame of 
oiled paper may be easily contrived, and will be 
found very convenient as a nightly covering for 
any delicate window plant or Fern which it may 
be desirable to shield from dust or draught. A 
simple protection of this kind will also keep out 
a considerable amount of frost. A north room 
or window will answer admirably for the culti¬ 
vation of Ferns where there is plenty of light 
without direct sunshine. If it be a bay window, 
all the better. A charming little Fern garden 
may then be arranged by having a zinc tray of 
suitable proportions, resting upon a spare table, 
should it be undesirable to have a stand on 
purpose for it. The tray should be deep enough 
to hold some 2 inches or 3 inches of Cocoa fibre 
or clean sand, upon the damp surface of which 
the Ferns could be placed or sunk in pots. If 
preferred, the Ferns could be planted in the tray 
itself. It would require no great amount of taste 
or ingenuity to arrange on such a stand a beauti¬ 
ful group of Ferns, dist inct in form and character, 
with an undergrowth of trailing plants, such as 
variegated or fine-leaved Ivies, creeping Saxifrage 
(S. sarmentosa) or Lycopodium, or even a fringe 
of small drooping Hart’s-tongue, to hide un¬ 
sightly pots. The whole aspect of the group 
might be varied from time to time by the intro¬ 
duction of flowering bulbs, of which there never 
need be any lack, let the season be what it may. 
It is not uncommon to find Ferns placed in dark 
out-of-the-way corners, under the mistaken idea 
that they thrive better in deep shade, but it 
must be borne in mind that all plants love light, 
even when their foliage is too tender to bear the 
full power of the sun. Even Ferns like a great 
deal more sunshine than is generally supposed 
to be good for them, only they must be provided 
with sufficient moisture at the root and in the 
surrounding atmosphere to enable them to bear 
it. Thus, the finest specimens of Lady Fern— 
one ef the most delicate of our native species—■ 
are to be fonnd, not in the deep recesses of 
shady woods, hut growing in full exposure on 
sunny hedge banks, with a tinkling brooklet 
running at their roots, which is constantly re¬ 
freshing their plumy fronds with invisible dew. 
Therefore, if we have only a sunny window at 
our disposal, we need not fear to place our Ferns 
in it, so long as we can provide them with 
suitable conditions of moisture and shade 
from the full heat of mid-day. In some cases, 
as with the varieties of Hart's-tongue, Folypo- 
diums, and Osmunda, it does no harm to let the 
pots stand during the growing season, for a part 
of each day if not longer, in a pan of water. 
But this plan does not succeed with Maiden-hairs, 
nor indeed with most other species of Fern, as 
their roots soon decay under such treatment, and 
the only alternative is careful attention to their 
wants in respect of water. Many a valuable 
Fern has been spoilt for a whole season by the 
neglect of a single day, as the amateur not un- 
frequently learns to his cost. But where care is 
bestowed, and they can be grown in a cool, well- 
lighted position, the cultivation is rewarded by 
the sturdy healtli of tho Ferns, and the fronds, 
should they be cut, will last for a much longer 
time than when taken from a hothouse. 

In Wardian cases.—F erns as a rule thrive 
well in Wardian cases, and various species of 


Maiden-hair are often grown, especially in town 
houses, under glass shades; but in the latter 
case complaints of mildew and damping off, 
caused by want of ventilation, are common 
enough. To obviate this difficulty, the glass 
might be removed during the day, but it must 
be replaced without fail should gas iiave to 
be lighted. Where gas is used, it is impossible 
to grow Ferns and few other plants successfully 
without such artificial shelter from its fames. 
But it detracts greatly from the enjoyment to be 
derived from their culture, if they must always 
be enclosed in a case, as the condensation of 
moisture upon the glass hides much of their 
beauty. In towns it may be an absolute neces¬ 
sity, but in pure country air, an ordinary 
window will often provide a plant lover with a 
commodious garden plot. 

Manure. —Ferns are not benefited generally 
by the use of manure of any kind, but it con¬ 
duces greatly to their vigour to be watered once 
or twice a week with soot water, than which 
there is no fertiliser more valuable to the gar¬ 
dener, nor more easily to be obtained. A bushel 
bag of soot sunk in a barrel of clean rain-water 
and allowed to stand until the water is of a clear 
dark brown colour, will provide a supply which 
will last a window gardener for a long time. It 
will be found that the fronds of a Fern thus 
treated will be of a beautiful dark green, and 
the whole plant healthy and vigorous. 

Maiden-hair Ferns are particularly averse to 
currents of cold air, and great care must be 
taken to protect them from draughts. They 
should never be placed between an open door 
and window, for example, or where they may be 
blown about by a rough wind, as they are sure 
to suffer severely, if not irretrievably, in conse¬ 
quence of such exposure. 

Insects, &c.— Ferns are not particularly 
subject to insects, but if they are allowed to 
stand in the company of infected plants, green¬ 
fly will be sure to attack the tender, young 
fronds, and will give a great deal of trouble. The 
best plan is always to be on guard against the 
first appearance of the enemy, and with a camel 
hair pencil dipped in water it is easy to remove 
the unwelcome intruders before they have time 
to do much mischief. They will generally be 
found hidden in the curled-up tips of the young 
fronds, and five minutes in the course of each 
day given to this necessary work will prove to 
be time well spent, and should be grudged by 
no window gardener to be quit of this trouble¬ 
some pest. It might seem needless to refer to 
slugs and snails in the case of Ferns cultivated 
in rooms, had it not come under observation 
that they will travel any distance and overcome 
inexplicable difficulties to feed upon such 
tempting morsels as the succulent young stems 
of Maiden-hair in particular. From whence they 
come or where they hide is a mystery, but I 
have myself more than once or twice tracked a 
slug all across a carpeted floor, and therefore 
recommend that a sharp look ont be kept for the 
first signs of the trail, by which, luckily, the evil 
presence is speedily betrayed. A pinch or two 
of fresh bran laid in its way is the most likely 
trap to catch a slug. Woodlice are also extremely 
troublesome, but are easily caught in any hollow 
trap, such as a raw potato scooped out for their 
enticement. 

Varieties.— Adiantum cuneatum is a native 
of Brazil, and its elegant habit and great value 
as a foliage plant, added to the ease with which 
it adapts itself to different modes of treatment, 
give it the precedence amongst its species 
which it so fully deserves. Under good culti¬ 
vation it is seemingly almost as much at home 
in the unheated greenhouse as in the Btove—in a 
room or window as in a Wardian case. But 
there are other species of Maiden-hair which 
should not be neglected. Our own British 
species—which may, with still greater reason, bo 
called South European, so widely is it distributed, 
A. Capillus veneris and its varieties—are most 
valuable window plants, while such species as 
A. formosum, A. hispidulum, A. reniforme, A. 
pedatnm, and several more, are so distinct in form 
and tone of colour, tliat-a beautiful group, utterly 
devoid of monotony, might be arranged of 







380 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 27, 1883. 


Adiantums alone. It may be well to refer to 
two species which are not commonly met with, 
but which [succeed under cool and somewhat 
drier treatment than that which suits the 
generality of Ferns, and therefore might be 
tried with advantage for room culture. These are 
the Silver and Golden Maiden-hairs, Adiantum 
scabrum and A. sulphureum, which are said to 
require much the same treatment as that 
recommended for Cacti, requiring very little 
water during the winter. They are natives of 
Chili, and are both small Ferns, the pinnte of 
the one being dusted with a silvery, and those of 
the other with a golden powder, which gives 
them a very distinct character. Though reckoned 
somewhat difficult to cultivate, being generally 
treated with too great heat and moisture, they 
a -e worth a trial by the window gardener when 
t ley can be obtained. 

Cutting off the fronds.— It is a common 
nractice to cut down Maiden-hair Ferns at certain 
masons, and in the case of deciduous species, 
s ich as the liird's-foot Maiden-hair (A. pedatum), 
of course the withered fronds should be removed. 
But A. cuneatum, the species which it is most 
usual thus to mistreat, is evergreen, and is 
positively weakened and much injured by being 
deprived of all its fronds, which are its breath¬ 
ing pores, at once. In exceptional cases, cutting 
down may be recommended by way of making a 
fresh start, when for some reason the Fem has 
become hopelessly disfigured, but it should never 
be done except by necessity as a last resource. 
The best plan is carefully to cut out with a pair 
of sharp-pointed scissors each frond as it 
Decomes unsightly. Growth naturally is 
quickened in the spring, and the greater 
number of young fronds will then make their 
appearance, but under proper cultivation a 
constant succession of these will be found push¬ 
ing up to take the place of those which have 
done their duty. Maiden-hair Ferns, therefore, 
should never be in the melancholy plight in 
which they are too often to be met with. There 
is certainly a natural period of rest during the 
winter when growth is not active, and it is at 
this interval that they should be repotted. 

K. L. D. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


GUERNSEY LILIES. 

(nerines.) 

I am surprised that the Nerines (Guernsey 
Lilies) are not more often to be found among 
those interesting little collections which receive 
so much care from the villa gardener. Few 
plants are better adapted by Nature to put np 
with reverses, or even neglect, than this. The 
fact of their being bulbous plants in a measure 
accounts for this, and their peculiarity of always 
thriving best in a dry atmosphere still further 
adapts them to the means of the amateur and 
window gardener. The culture of the Nerine is 
very simple, and the production of theii 
gorgeous (lowers is certain, provided the following 
details be borne in mind. In the first place, be 
it distinctly understood that the Nerines do not 
require and will not thrive in a warm, moist 
bouse; they are cold greenhouse plants, requiring 
a dry atmosphere all the year round. The treat¬ 
ment for one year (which should be repeated 
annually) is as follows: The Nerines begin to 
(lower in the end of August and continue to 
bloom throughout the autumn. As the flowering 
time is a definite mark in considering the treat¬ 
ment, we will commence with it. 

During flowering, and afterwards throughout 
the winter and spring, the Nerines should be 
freely watered until the leaves by turning yellow 
show that the resting time has arrived. Through¬ 
out the remainder of the summer, while the 
plants are leafless, not one drop of water should 
be given until the flower spikes appear, or in 
exceptional cases until the bulb, by its persisting 
in pushing up leaves at the flowering time, shows 
that it does not mean to bloom, in which case 
the plant must be watered and grown again 
until the next year. All the sun, light, and air 
possible should be given to them at all times. 
During the resting season a shelf in a sunny 
part of a greenhouse or cold frame where air can 
be freely admitted without letting in the rain 
suits them admirably. These, like many other 
bulbs, often get ruined by being placed under a 
stage when not growing. By the above it will 
be seen that the Nerines have a drv Beason of 

Google 


some months. It is important to see the flower- 
spikes before watering, or the leaves will be 
caused to grow and the spikes will not appear. 
Rotting should be done as seldom as possible. 
The Nerines when repotted are generally thrown 
one year out of bloom. They thrive for years in 
the same pots, piling one bulb on another, and 
thus greatly increasing the number of spikes to 
each plant. The best soil for them is turfy 
yellow loam without admixture of any kind; 
this, when the plants get well rooted into it, 
will last and keep them in good condition for 
years. Nerine flexuosa, N. elegans, and a few 
other of the winter-blooming hybrids of N. 
flexuosa are, to a certain extent, exceptions to 
the above rules, as they do not require so long a 
rest, but may be watered in September without 
regard to the condition of the flower-spikes, as 
they bloom well when growing. The following 
is a list of the best kinds in cultivation, those 
marked * being especially recommended to 
beginners or those who mean to grow them in 
the window; 40° or 50° Fahrenheit in winter 
will do them well, but a higher temperature if 
dry and airy will suit them : *N. corusca, dark 
scarlet; N. corusca major, orange scarlet; N. 


boldi variegata, which has noble foliage, most 
handsomely divided and margined with an irregu¬ 
lar broad brand of a rich creamy white, which 
shows up in pleasing contrast to the dark shining 
green of the centre. Unfortunately, plants of 
this beautiful Aralia are still very dear, as they 
all have to be got from cuttings made from side 
shoots, and these are not to be obtained in quan¬ 
tity ; the process of working up a stock is there¬ 
fore a slow one. At one time I thought I should 
be able to raise a lot from seed, but they Dearly 
all came up with white cotyledons, and died off 
in the quick way such albinos do. The normal 
form may be got in any quantity by saving or 
buying the seed, which large, old plants yield 
freely, and if sown in sandy soil in heat in spring, 
it soon germinates, and makes fine useful plants 
for furnishing in a few months. 

The New Zealand Flax is likewise a 
valuable plant, the best variety being the varie¬ 
gated kind, which has rich bands or stripes up 
the whole length of the long, sword-like leaves 
that look very bright, and produce a most 
striking effect among other plants. The way to 
increase the variegated Phormium is by division, 
and the best time for doing this is in fpriog 



A well-grown specimen of Nerine FothergUlL Drawn in October last in a garden at Egham. 


curvifolia, orange scarlet; *N. flexuosa, white, 
pink line ; N. elegans, bright pink; N. Fother- 
gilli, scarlet; *N. Fothergilli major, vermilion; 
N. filifolia, rosy red; N. humile; *N. humile 
angustifolia; N. Planti, crimson ; N. pudica, 
white; N, pulchclla, blush, with rose line; 
*N. rosea, dark rose; N. samiensis (the Guernsey 
Lily) rosy crimson; N. nndulata, lilac; *N. 
venusta, crimson. J. 0. 


PLANTS FOR WINTER DECORATION. 

Palms. —There can, I think, be no question 
that Palms stand in the foremost rank for de¬ 
corative purposes during winter, and yet many 
refrain from growing them through the mistaken 
notion that they require heat and become large 
in a very short time; their growth is only rapid 
when they are well fed and allowed plenty of 
pot room, for when restricted in both, they may 
be kept small for years. That there are Palms 
which need great heat is well known, but there 
are plenty that are quite at home in a very low 
temperature, and one at least is hardy, and that, 
fortunately, is one of the best. The name of 
the particular kind is Chamaerops Fortunei, 
which has finely divided, fan-shaped leaves, 
borne on short stalks, rising from a shaggy tree¬ 
like stem, which when it attains age, is quite 
coated with fibre. Another striking Palm that 
will endure the temperature of a greenhouse is 
Areca sapida, which is very distinct from the one 
just named, as it has long erect leaves or fronds, 
and is of most stately appearance. Latania bor- 
bonica, Seaforthia elegans, Jubma spectabilis, 
Phoenix dactylifera, Rhapis flabelliformis, and 
Sabal Andersoni are all desirable Palms to have, 
and will go far to give character and produce a 
fine effect in any conservatory. What they look 
well with are variegated plants, and among 
these none are more valuable than Aralia Sie- 


when they may be shaken out of the soil, pulled 
apart, and if then repotted and kept close, will 
soon start to grow. Another plant that I can 
strongly recommend is Aspidistra lurida varie¬ 
gata, which is so tenacious of life that it will 
flourish almost anywhere, and even withstand 
the fumes of gas, which are so fatal to most 
other things. To bring out its variegation to 
the full this Aspidistra should be grown in peat 
and sand, and as it requires plenty of water, 
the pots should be well drained that it may 
pass freely through. For growing in rooms, 
Aspidistra lurida variegata is quite unsurfassed, 
and it is surprising the length of time it will last 
and succeed without receiving a shift, as however 
cramped its roots are it always does well. Co- 
prosma Baueriana is also noted for its accommo¬ 
dating habit and lively looking foliage, which is 
so rich and bright that it quite lights up a place. 
To grow it well with large leaves it requires 
rich soil, such as a mixture of fibry loam and 
leaf mould, with a sprinkling of rotten manure, 
and when well established should be supplied 
freely with liquid manure. In propagating this 
Coprosma, cuttings should be made from the 
half-ripe shoots in the autumn, or from the 
younger wood in spring, and if inserted in 
sandy soil and kept close and warm by placing 
a bell or hand-glass over them in a house or 
frame, they strike readily and soon make nice 
little plants. 

Eurya latifolia variegata is another 

charming subject for the ornamentation of the 
greenhouse or conservatory, as in its markings 
and richness of leaf it is almost equal to some of 
the best of the Crotons, and is almost, if Dot 
quite, hardy, so that it may be used in any cold 
draughty place without taking harm. Like the 
Coprosma, it may be readily increased by cut¬ 
tings taken off during either spring or autumn 
and treated in the same way, and if standards 


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URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




Oct. 27, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


381 


are desired, all that is necessary is to trim or 
disbud the stems till they reach the requisite 
height, when by stopping, the plants will branch 
out and form nice little heads. To have good 
shaped pyramids, the side shoots should have 
the points nipped out to cause them to break 
bic.k. which they will then do and become well 
furnished below. Euonymus latifolius albo- 
variegatus and aureo-marginatus are quite worth 
growing in pots, and unless kept under glass 
they are seldom seen in perfection. The first- 
named forms a very beautiful plant, as it has 
large leaves broadly margined with a fine creamy 
white, and they are highly polished and very 
rich-looking. Yucca aloifolia variegata should 
not ba forgotten, as it is a charming thing for 
table decoration or famishing vases, for which 
purposes its general appearanceand habit render 
it specially suitable. S. 


The White Abutilon (A. Boule de 
Neige).—This is one of the very best of winter¬ 
flowering plants ; it not only flowers freely, but 
is one of those continuous bloomers that produce 
blossoms from the axil of every leaf as long as 
growth lasts; and the foot-stalks are long enough 
to enable the flowers to be used either singly for 
bouquets or for furnishing small vases, for which 
their delicate purity of colour makes them very 
acceptable. The best way to treat this plant is 
exactly that usually accorded to winter-flowering 
Pelargoniums. It should be grown on during 
summer out-of-doors in an open, sunny position. 
The bloom should be pinched off as soon as it 
appears, and the strong shoots should be stopped, 
so as to furnish a quantity of small spray-like 
shoots ; and finally, the pots should be well filled 
with roots. If plants thus prepared are now set 
in a light house with an intermediate temper¬ 
ature, they will produce bloom up to Christmas; 
and as a subject for filling the flower basket 
during the darkest months, I feel sure anyone 
giving this Abutilon a trial will say it is one of 
the very best for that purpose.—J. G. 

A New Zealand Fern (Pteris scaberula). 
—This pretty little New Zealand species should 
find a place in every collection of Ferns. It has 
a light and graceful appearance, and when 
l iberally and carefully grown, supplies a number 
of useful fronds for cutting, a purpose for which 
so few Ferns are suitable. It thrives in well- 
drained pots, but also grows with the greatest 
vigour in shallow pans. They should be filled 
almost to the rim with lumpy Peat and fibrous 
loam in equal proportions, mixing therewith some 
small crocks or lumps of charcoal, as this Fern 
requires perfect drainage, and never grows with 
any vigour where that is at all defective. It is 
also suitable for planting out in a fernery under 
glass, and has, when growing freely, a very 
pleasing appearance. When it has to remain in 
the same position for some time pieces of sand¬ 
stone or something similar should be embedded 
here and there in the soil, so as to prevent it 
from becoming sour. Ferns are never so happy 
as when their roots can occasionally touch some 
such substance around which they cling, finding 
t here apparently the conditions best suited to 
their well-being.—B. 

Geraniums in vineries.— You were kind 
enough to say last summer that you would judge 
the truth of my assertion that winter-flowering 
Geraniums and late Grapes could be grown to¬ 
gether (which was doubted by several corres¬ 
pondents), if I would send you samples. I 
regret to say that, owing to an accident to the 
roof of the vinery, the Grapes got such a wetting 
they rotted by scores. I am therefore only able 
to send bunches about quarter the usual size; you 
can, however, judge of the quality from them. I 
also send a bunch of flowers gathered from our 
}>eds and borders, which will show that our 
Geraniums are not by any means masses of black 
mould, as one of your correspondents piteously 
observes his are. May I also ask you to notice the 
blue Anagallis, as it is never mentioned in lists 
of blue flowers, and yet it is a real one—I mean 
not a mere blue rim, like Glory of the Snow or 
Convolvulus minor—and as you see lasts well into 
autumn.—A. B. T., East Anglia,—[The Grapes 
were of fair quality; the berries were rather small, 
but fit for any ordinary dessert table. The 
AnagaUis hispanica is a lovely blue-flowered 
annual, well worth growing for its bright blue 
flowers.—E d.] 

10460.— Forcing Azaleas —A nfcht tem¬ 
perature of 50° will th^?ah^Vtjjjrdsent, 


allowing a rise of 10° or 15° more in the day 
time by sun heat; but in hard frosty weather 
it would be better for the plants to have the 
night temperature down to 45°. Syringe the 
plants with tepid water every fine morning until 
the buds open. It will soften the buds and 
induce them to open, and also help to keep the 
plants clean. The best manure I have found for 
Azaleas is “ Standen's.” Dust a little over the 
surface once a fortnight and water in with a 
rose; it a will improve them greatly.—J. IIobert- 
SON. 

10464.— Treatment of Azaleas.— After 
the Azaleas are housed, give plenty of air at all 
times when the weather is mild; syringe over¬ 
head on fine mornings, they like it, and it keeps 
the plants fresh and clean. In hard fro3b the 
night temperature should be 40° to 45°, allowing 
a rise of 8° or 10° by day, according to outside 
temperature. A little Standen’s manure dusted on 
the surface of the soil once a fortnight, and 
watered in with a rose, will help them when 
they are making their growth.—J Robertson. 
Coivdenhwives. 

10475.— Malden-hair Ferns.— The best 
time to divide Maiden-hair Ferns is in the spring, 
when they are beginniog to grow. A good 
compost is three parts peat to one of turfy loam,: 
with sand added just to make it porous. If peat ] 
is scarce use leaf-mould as a substitute. A 
temperature of 50° is low enough for Adiantnm 
Farleyense, 6° or 10° higher would suit it better 
in winter.— J. Robertson. 

10477.— Wintering plants.— If a warm 

house is not available for the Begonias, they may 
be wintered in constantly heated dwelling-room, 
but the winter-flowering and flue-leaved kinds 
demand more moisture in spring than they get 
in rooms, and consequently do not make much 
growth therein. Diplacus glutinosus and Abu- 
tilons only demand shelter against frost, and 
may be kept in a cool room. It is a pity you 
cannot have your greenhouse heated sufficiently 
to keep out frost. Why do you not try lamps, or 
the plan recommended by “Ashmore” in Gar¬ 
dening a short time since ?—J. C. B. 

10180.— Potting Fious elastica.— By 

no means pot the plant now ; this is the wrong 
time to be repotting, as plants are going to rest 
and root action will soon come to a standstill. The 
be3t time to pot a Ficus which is to be grown 
cool is the beginning of May, but if it has the 
accommodation of a warm house, it may be 
shifted in March. If wintered in a cool green¬ 
house, much care in watering must be exercised, 
only giving water when dry, and keeping in the 
warmest place there.—J. C. B. 

10467.— Vailotas, Tuberoses, and Bou- 
vardias. When Vallotas go out of flower, they 
should not have so much water given them, 
watering only when dry; but do not make the 
mistake of drying them off, as many do. Place 
t hem where they get a fair amount of light, and 
give a little water now and then in winter just 
enough to keep the foliage green. Bouvardias 
should be kept rather dry at the roots for about 
a fortnight when done flowering, so as to bring 
them into a state of rest; then cut them back 
hard to within two eyes of the base of the last 
year’s growth. Only water when dry until young 
shoots, some 2 inches long, are formed, when all 
the old soil must be shaken away, and the plants 
repotted in pots just large enough to contain the 
roots. Water carefully and keep rather close 
and warm, and they will soon start into growth, 
and when the pots get full of roots, shift into 
the next sized pot, using good turfy loam two 
parts and leaf-mould one part, with some silver 
sand. Tuberoses are of no use after flowering, 
they must be purchased yearly.—J. C. B. 

10467.— Winter-blooming plants for 
greenhouse.—Of plants which flower in winter 
in a cool house, Cyclamens, Primulas, Paris 
Daisies (yellow and white varieties), winter 
flowering Tropaeolums, Zonal Geraniums, Erica 
hyemalis and gracilis, and Abutilons are the 
most valuable. Then there are Violets and 
Christmas Roses, which come to such perfection 
under the shelter of a glass roof, and if good 
plants are at command, they should at once be 
potted, and by November should occupy a light 
position in the house. But all these plants 
want good culture through the summer. They 
will not give good bloom in winter if they are 
not carefully tended from spring onwards; but 
of course, if expense is no object, flowering 


specimens can now be purchased which will 
create an effect this winter. Whoever desires 
flowers in winter must get young plants not 
later than April, and grow them according to 
their several requirements, so that the pots are 
full of roots by October, with the exception of 
Violets and Christmas Roses, which are best 
grown in the open ground, potting them about 
the last week in October. The best Lilies for 
pot culture are lancifolium, album, and rabrum, 
auratum, longiflorum, Krameri, and superbum. 
They should be potted at once in loam and peat 
in equal parts, with some silver sand, storing in 
a cold frame, and keeping just moist.—J.C. B. 


THE COMING WEEKS WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary — October 29 to 
November 3. 

Planting Crocuses in the flower garden; replantiug 
Daisies ; digging ground for first sowing of Peas ; pruning 
early Vines ; raking up leaves for hotbed*. <fcc. Potting 
Sweet Briers ; putting in Rhubarb for forcing; taking up 
Dahlia roots, aud putting them under greenhouse Btage 
in not too dry a place ; tying up tree Mignonette ; also 
creepers on screen walls ; and Lettuces in frames ; putting 
lights over Strawberry plants in pots ; putting litter 
round the Calceolaria pit; pruning Pear trees; keeping tree 
Carnations at about 50 w . Prints in flower—Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, Salvia splenden*, Ericigracilisautnmnalis, Cjtisus 
racemosus, and C. Attleunua, Epacrls Eclipse, Tydrea 
splendena, Begoniaparvifolia and iucamata, Tom Thumb 
Pelargonium, Primulas, Mignonette, Crimson Monthly 
Rose, Cinerarias, and Lobelia splendens. Planting stan¬ 
dard Roses in flower garden ; taking up blue Salvias for 
stock plants; taking out autumn Cucumbers to prepare 
for re-planting ; putting hand-lights over early Lettuce ; 
stacking Carrots and Beetroot in dry sand or dry ashes ; 
clearing out a pit for Asparagus forcing. Potting her¬ 
baceous Calceolarias in good rough material, and placing 
them in well-crocked pots ; a quantity of Sedum specta- 
bile; taking up Gladioli; putting in first batch of 
Seakale for forcing; getting all Cauliflower which is 
ready put into trenches; washing Gardenias; watering 
bedding material when absolutely necessary ; manuring 
vacant ground with garden refuse. 

Potting Lily of the Valley for forcing; also a large 
quantity of Narcissi; planting Gentiana acaulis and Pan- 
Ries; plunging the most forward bulbs in tan, and 
keeping them at from 58° to 50° at night and 63° by day 
with air; extra covering Lettuces, Endive, Strawberries, 
Calceolarias, Chrysanthemums, and cold frames on signs 
of frost; getting all Fuchsias and Daturas under green¬ 
house stage; putting some hay over seed Potatoes; 
taking up untied Endive and putting it into a frame; 
examining Camellias for scale; making a pit ready for 
forcing Seakale ; cutting Ivy off top of wall to prevent 
its being broken down by heavy wind or snow. Gathering 
all Tomatoes and putting them in Vineries; digging 
vacant ground ; pruning Raspberries. 

Conservatory. 

There is considerable difference in what can 
be done in structures that come under this 
denomination on account of the difference in 
the temperature kept up. Where the principal 
occupants are such as only require, or will bear, 
a temperature similar to that of an ordinary 
greenhouse, anything that needs more heat 
cannot at this season be accommodated. The 
early flowering Chrysanthemums, of which 
there are several that bloom well through 
October; early blooming Salvias, of which K. 
Bethelli is one of the most distinct and freest 
flowerers; early varieties of Epacris, Veronicas, 
Witseniacorymbosa, Frimulas, I.asiandras, Helio¬ 
tropes, Croweas, and Cyclamens will be the 
principal things to be depended upon, along 
with a selection of light and dark coloured 
zonal Pelargoniums, which if well managed are 
much more useful at this season than in the 
9priog and summer, when their presence in 
large numbers often gives insufficient room for 
enough variety. In the way of roof-climbers 
there is not much in bloom at this season ; but 
where there is a good plant of Habrothamnus 
elegans, and the beautiful Mandevilla snaveolens, 
with red and white Lapagerias, these four will 
give a cheerful appearance to the structure. 
Such roof-climbers as are not in flower, and 
have at all extended so as to shade the general 
occupants of the house, should be wel 1 cut in, 
using judgment in the work, for if the shoots of 
all are indiscriminately shortened, the result is 
that a good many never bloom satisfactorily. 
In place of this it is moch better with all plants 
that flower from the ripened previous season's 
growth to thin out and cut away completely 
such a number of the shoots as will briDg the 
plants within reasonable compass. 

Camellias 

require more water at all seasons than most 
plants with hard wood. If ever the soil be 
allowed to get dry from the time the buds have 
attained a considerable size until they expand, 
it results in their falling (tfl. The same rcsv.lt 


382 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 27, 1883. 


will follow if the atmosphere be too dry, but 
injury from this cause mostly shows itself much 
sooner in the case of plants having been dry at 
the roots. The autumn-flowering Speedwells 
(Veronicas) require the soil kept moderately 
moist, especially while they are blooming, or 
the flowers will be liable to drop. Cytisus 
racemosus, Acacias, Neriums, Myrtles, Ktatices, 
greenhouse Rhododendrons, Lapagerias, Croweas, 
Clianthus puniceus. Cassia corymbosa, and 
Abutilons are plants that should never be 
allowed to get so diy as the more tender kinds ; 
they are free growers, and equally free in 
producing flowers, afford great variety, and are 
altogether much more suitable for those to 
grow whose experience is limited than plants 
that are of more difficult management. 

Lilies. 

No further time should be lost in going over 
the latest flowered Lilies grown in pots, 
dividing them where too many bulbs are together, 
and removing the small stem-formed little bulbs 
which such kinds as the speciosum section pro¬ 
duce freely on the stems above the principal 
bulbs. These, if not annually removed, directly 
crowd and impoverish the soil so much that the 
whole becomes enfeebled; they may either be 
put a few together in pots proportionate to their 
size, or if the natural soil of the locality is 
suitable for the growth of Lilies, they can be 
planted out in the open ground. This, as a 
matter of course, applies to sorts that are 
plentiful. With scarce varieties it will be much 
better to keep them in pots, as under such 
conditions, if properly treated, they are more 
likely to go on satisfactorily and increase. Plants 
of auratum and others that bloomed early in the 
summer, and were some time since potted, should 
have attention from time to time to see that the 
soil does not get too dry, as the young roots they 
have will not progress without enough moisture 
is present. There is no Lily so useful for general 
conservatory and greenhouse decoration as L. 
eximium, where the true variety is at hand, for 
the reason that it forces freely; if not already 
potted, no time should be lost in getting the 
plants in. As 6oon as the potting is completed 
all the kinds should be placed out of the reach 
of frost, avoiding putting them under plant 
stages, or anywhere where they are likely to 
receive drip by the water running from other 
plants above them, keeping the soil through 
the winter in a slightly moist condition, beyond 
which they require no further attention until the 
shoots are about to make their appearance 
through the soil. Arum Lilies (Callas) need to 
have the soil moist; although it is almost an 
aquatic, it is of such an hardy nature that it will 
bear to be completely dried up without fatal 
results, though, of course, it feels the effects of 
such treatment. Heliotropes, Petunias, Lobelias, 
Carnations, Salmas, Lachenalias, Vallotas, and 
Cyclamens do not require to have the soil kept 
quite so moist as the first-named plants, yet 
they should always receive water before being 
allowed to get quite dry. 

Pelargoniums. 

The different sections of these vary consider¬ 
ably in their demand for water; the zonals of all 
colours and the bronze and white variegated¬ 
leaved kinds being mostly freer growers than the 
large-flowered sorts, the fancies, and the tricolors, 
must have the soil kept somewhat moister, but 
those who have not yet acquired the knowledge 
of the exact condition of moisture these plants 
like had much better err by keeping them too 
dry than too wet, as the latter state will cause 
destruction of the roots, resulting in disease 
from which'they will be slow to recover, whilst 
a moderate degree of dryness will not affect them 
to a greater extent than slightly stopping their 
growth. The above - mentioned more tender- 
rooted, slower-growing sections, particularly the 
fancies and the weakest growing varieties of the 
tricolors, should never be watered during the 
winter until the soil has got so dry that little 
moisture can be detected in it by pressing the 
fingers on the surface. There is a considerable 
difference in the strength of growth of the yellow¬ 
leaved varieties of Pelargoniums. 

Kalosantiies. 

These must be watered with caution until they 
begin to move freely in spring, when they will 
need more; during the autumn and winter do not 
apply any until the soil has got almost dry, yet 
water must not bc/wUhlicM too J®g--or the 


under leaves will shrivel up and die, which 
detracts much from the appearance of the plants, 
yet does not usually interfere with their flowering. 

Auriculas. 

Those should be carefully looked over at least 
once a week, removing all decaying foliage, 
weeds, and green mould from the stuface 
of the pots. Insect pests are still active ; the 
worst—greenfly—can be readily destroyed by 
fumigating with Tobacco smoke. There is also 
a pale green caterpillar not easily distinguished 
from the leaves on which it feeds that is very 
troublesome at this season ; therefore carefully 
search for it and pick it off. The leather-coated 
grub, too, will eat the leaves rapidly; this and 
slugs must likewise be sought for at night with 
a lamp. Very small offsets put in late are 
difficult to winter, unless they are very carefully 
attended to. The soil in the pots should be kept 
only very moderately moist. Pull the lights off 
all frames in which Auriculas are growing, except 
when it rains. 

Calceolarias and Cinerarias. 

In addition to a moist condition of the roots, 
these revel in a humid atmosphere, and should 
never be placed on a dry surface, such as the 
front shelf of an ordinary greenhouse. Through 
the winter the best position for them is on a bed 
of ashes in a shallow pit, a slight distance below 
the aperture for the admission of air, so that it 
will in a measure pass over rather than come in 
direct contact with them. Where there is no 
alternative but to put them on shelves, it is well 
to have 1 inch of Moss spread on the shelves, 
which, if kept moist, will counteract the drying 
effects of the situation. 

Flower Garden. 

There is now, and will be for some time to 
come, plenty of sweeping and raking up of 
leaves and rolling to remove worm casts—heart¬ 
less work, certainly, but in the interest of neat¬ 
ness and of satisfaction to all concerned it 
should be done regularly. Walks that need re- 
gravelling or fresh surfacing can also now be 
done, and all should be freed of weeds and well 
rolled down now that there has been abundance 
of rain to admit of the roller having full effect 
on them Uneven parts of the lawn should now 
be levelled, and any that need returfing be done 
at the first convenience; in fact, alterations of 
every kind should, whilst the weather continues 
so open, be proceeded with as expeditiously as 
possible. 

Hardy Flowers. 

The ground about the roots of Tansies and 
Pinks in beds should be kept constantly 
well stirred, and for this purpose small Dutch 
hoes about 4 inches wide answer best. Beyond 
this they require little more attention, except to 
see that the plants are steady in the ground. 
The soil should be pressed round the roots with 
the fingers, and some of the plants may be tied 
to small sticks to steady them. Slugs and the 
leather-coated grubs must be searched for at 
night. Pinks for forcing, comprising such sorts 
as Anne Boleyn, Derby Day, Lady Blanche (the 
best pure white), Lord Lyons (fine rosy-purple), 
Mrs. Pettifer, and Newmarket should now be 
lifted from the open ground and potted in good 
soil. If the plants are large they should be 
potted in 5-inch or 6-inch pots, and small plants 
in 1-inch ones. Place them in a cold frame near 
the glass, where the lights must be kept close 
for a few days, and then air may be freely 
admitted. If cuttings of Pentstemonshave notyet 
been put in, no time should now be lost in doing 
so; they ought to be put into fine soil under hand- 
lights, either in pots or in the open ground. Our 
plants are now flowering freely, and most useful 
the blossoms are, as nearly everything else has 
finished blooming. If seeds are not required 
see that the seed-pods are removed. 

Roses. 

If Roses bcplanted at this early season, they will 
next year flower just as freely as old established 
plants. In light soil we find it advantageous to 
lift all the plants every alternate year. They are 
heeled in for a couple of days or so, till the beds 
are deeply trenched and manured witli well- 
rotted stable manure. The soil is then well firmed 
by treading, and the plants at once put in, the 
roots having previously been examined as to the 
removal of useless portions, suckers, Ac. They 
are at once staked, tied, and well touched with 


Cocoa fibre for the winter. In strong, loamy 
soils (the best description for Roses), the treading 
must of course be dispensed with, except just as 
much as is needed when planting to keep each 
one in position and to ensure the soil being in 
close contact with the roots. I have observed 
that Roses moved thus early are not nearly so 
liable to injury from severe weather as are those 
not moved, the reason doubtless being that the 
check assists perfect maturity of the wood, the 
frost having the worst effect on plants f uB of ssp. 
There is one drawback to this early transplanting, 
and that is the sacrificing of numbers of flowers, 
which by reason of the protracted summer are 
this season more than usually abundant; still, it 
is better that this should be, than to risk even 
the slightest failure at the proper Rose season— 
W. W. 

Shrubberies. 

Till the leaves have all fallen, not much 
can be done in the way cf clearing ont of 
shrubbery clumps and plantations, but mean¬ 
while any replanting or thinning ont should 
have attention, and this will lighten the labour 
when a general clear-up and mulching of those 
that have been lately transplanted has to be done, 
which should take place as soon as all danger of 
further litter from leaves, Ac., has passed. As a 
rule, shrubberies do not receive that amount of 
cultural attention which in all cases they well 
deserve, Couch, Nettles, Docks, Brambles and 
the like too frequently holding sway amongst 
them ; and it is only with a view to the extirpa¬ 
tion and prevention of these weeds getting the 
upper hand that I would advise that the clumps 
be forked over annually. I am aware that this 
is an operation condemned by many on the 
ground of injury to the roots, but this I think is 
more fancied than real; at any rate, of two evils 
one should always choose the lesser, and this 1 
think would be forking over the beds, not to 
mention the increased neatness that is thereby 
assured, l’ush along with the preparation of 
ground that has to be planted this winter; plenty 
of drain-pipes and a free outlet in low-lying situa¬ 
tions are the first essentials of success. In such 
positions it is also a good plan to raise the soil 
well above the general ground level, but if such 
raising be considered objectionable, it is not 
really necessary so long as the drainage at the 
bottom is effectively done. 

Vines. 

Some kind of covering should now be placed 
over the main roots of Muscats, Lady Downes 
and other late kinds intended for winter use or 
bottling. By this time the Muscats will have 
attained perfection, and the other kinds will be 
sufficiently advanced to admit of a general 
lowering of the temperature to about 55° at 
night and a few degrees higher by day, when 
gentle fire-heat is needed to keep the atmosphere 
of the houses dry and favourable to the ripen¬ 
ing of the foliage. Houses in which the remains 
of the crop of late summer Grapes are still 
hanging may now be cleared with advantage, as 
the bunches will keep quite as well, if not better, 
in the Grape room. The Vines can then be 
divested of all lateral growths and subjected to 
a course of dry fire-heat to insure the perfect 
maturation of the wood. 

Prune sucoessional houses as soon as the 
leaves fall, and take advantage of wet days for 
cleansing the canes; also wash or paint the in¬ 
ternal woodwork and ventilate freely if, as is 
too often the case, they are not wanted for 
plants. If the earliest house was pruned at the 
end of September and shutting up in November 
is contemplated, a course of gradual watering 
will now be needful to bring the internal borders 
into a satisfactory state before the Vines are 
excited by the application of artificial heat. 
Pot Vines which were shortened back about the 
same time may also be watered, top-dressed, and 
placed in position, and as these do not always 
break so kindly as old Vines which have been 
forced for a number of years, it will be well to 
tie down the points before the terminal buds 
begin to swell. 

Grape Room. 

As the time is now at hand for turning this 
room to account, steps should at once be taken 
to get it thoroughly cleansed and ventilnted. If 
I may judge others by my own standard, it is by 
no means improbable that the bottles remain as 
they were left last spring; if so, they must be 
tak. ) out and emptied, well washed, iefilled 



Oct. 2/, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


383 


•with pure soft water, and returned to the racks 
before the floor is cleaned. When this has been 
done a course of steady firing, with ventilation 
on fine days to drive or draw every particle of 
moisture out of the walls and floor, will form a 
very important item in the successful manage¬ 
ment of bottled Grapes. In a preceding paper 
I have stated that the remnants of crops of 
autumn Grapes may be taken to the Grape room; 
but unless the room is properly prepared, no 
amount of care will prevent thin-skinned kinds 
from going mouldy as fast as they are taken in, 
when the system, instead of the management, 
will be blamed. It often happens that a single 
Vine of Gros Colmar is the last in a house to be 
cleared, and the stems of the bunches being 
thick and fleshy, they are the first to go when 
placed in water; but if suspended in the 
driest and warmest part of the room, imme¬ 
diately over the hot-water pipes, this fine Grape 
may be kept till March, and the quality of the 
berries will improve daily. Opinions vary as to 
the best time for cutting the general crop of 
winter Grapes. I generally cut my Lady Downes 
the first week in January, and have kept them 
nntil the end of June. The great secret of 
success is perfect colour and ripeness of the fruit 
and complete rest, or the nearest approach to 
it, on the Vines at the time the Grapes are cut. 

Hardy Fruit. 

When the foliage of Apricots, Peaches, and 
Nectarines part readily from the trees, they 
ought to be occasionally lightly brushed over for 
the purpose of bringing it down, in order that 
the sun and air may have full play on the trees. 
Push on planting, lifting, and root-pruning, as 
the present is the best season of the whole year 
for such work, a fact proved by the rarity with 
which trees now operated on fail to produce a 
full crop of fruit the following season. Goose¬ 
berries and Currants, being divested of foliage, 
may now be pruned. It is usual to defer the 
pruning of Gooseberries till spring, because 
birds are apt to make an onslaught on the buds, 
but if pruning be done now, and if afterwards 
the trees are splashed over with a mixture of 
soot and lime, with cow manure added to cause 
adhesiveness, the composition will not only be 
distasteful to birds, but will kill Lichen and 
Moss, which usually abound on neglected fruit 
bashes. When pruning, select the best-ripened 
wood for cuttings, which may be tied into 
bundles and heeled in to give profitable employ¬ 
ment in bad weather in preparing them for 
insertion, which should be in rows 1 foot apart 
and about 6 inches asunder in the rows. All the 
buds should be picked out of that part of the 
stem that is inserted in the ground, or there is a 
tendency to produce suckers, and each tree is 
always best when grown with only a single stem. 
Old plantations of all kinds of small fruits will 
repay any attention that can be afforded them at 
this season, such as the thinning out of useless 
naked wood, surface forking the ground, and 
afterwards giving it a good dressing of well- 
rotted manure, to be left on the surface to be 
washed in by the rains. Raspberries especially 
should annually have such a dressing. Keep the 
fruit room well ventilated on every favourable 
opportunity till the fruit has become thoroughly 
dry, but afterwards preservative conditions are 
best assured by the maintenance of a somewhat 
confined atmosphere. 

Vegetables. 

Winter Onions, now growing rapidly, should 
be planted out to check growth; all kinds of 
vegetables to stand the winter in such seasons 
as these should be checked. The young growth 
is so tender, that frost cripples them at once. 
The time is fast approaching for getting early 
Potatoes well and steadily started. Good strong 
green shoots have much to do with success; 
therefore put in the first lot for that purpose. 
The plants in our first house of Cucumbers are 
now about 1 foot high; they are planted on 
mounds of earth and leaf-soil. Keep the house 
Bwect and clean, and the thermometer at 65° in 
the evening, letting it run up with the sun from 
10° to 15° before air is admitted. Tops of 
Asparagus will now have turned yellow, and 
should be removed ; but, as in other cases of a 
similar nature, they ought never to be cut away 
whilst they have life in them. If there are any 
weeds on the beds, they should be cleared away. 
The beds should then hsve»their winter dressing 
applied. This ought \o consist o' ^lnlche^ of 


well rotten manure evenly spread over the 
surface. This not only has the effect of en¬ 
riching the soil, by its fertilising properties being 
washed into the ground by the rains, but it also 
protects the crowns from frost; for, although a 
perfectly hardy plant, yet, like many others 
under a system of cultivation, it is better not to 
have the roots exposed to severe frost. If the 
alleys contain plenty of soil, an inch or two may 
be thrown over the manure; but the old method 
of sinking these too deep frequently did much 
injury to the roots, which grow persistently in a 
horizontal direction, often extending into the 
alleys, and when these were cut to such a depth 
as to throw a considerable portion of soil over 
the beds, the roots, of course, were more or less 
injured. The great mistake in the cultivation 
of this vegetable is in too close planting; two 
rows are quite enough for a 4-foot bed, instead 
of three or four. There is nothing gained by 
close planting; when plenty of room is allowed, 
the heads, if they are not so numerous, are 
double the size, and the beds will last much 
longer in bearing condition. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

In outside suburbs where the air is compara¬ 
tively pure, hardy trees and shrubs may now be 
safely planted, but, as a general rule, this sort 
of thing is much better left till early spring, as 
the smoke and fog of a town during winter 
frequently kill the plants before they have got 
hold of the ground at all. This applies still 
more forcibly to anything of a delicate nature. 
The only things that it is now safe to plant are 
Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocus, &c. These should be 
planted at once; the soil should be made fairly 
rich, but must be porous and well drained, and 
a little dry sand should be placed round each 
bulb of Hyacinths and Tulips, to prevent decay, 
though this is not at all necessary with Snow¬ 
drops and Crocuses. Plant all these, say, 6 inches 
deep, or even a little more in some cases. With 
these precautions, all these Dutch bulbs will do 
well and make a nice show next spring, the 
Hyacinths and Crocuses particularly. The pretty 
Winter Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis) is a great 
addition to any town garden. Its bright yellow 
blooms open earlier than those of any other plant, 
and they flourish capitally in town air. These 
afford a very nice effect if planted in grass, 
where their blossoms show up much better than 
against the bare soil of a border; this applies 
equally well to Crocuses, which are never so 
showy as when placed in patches on a lawn or 
grassy slope. 

Bedding and greenhouse plants should 
be all safely housed now. It is not at all 
necessary, however, to begin firing with these at 
once; on the contrary, the longer this can be 
dispensed with the better. Do not keep them 
closely shut np either, unless the weather be 
very cold, but endeavour to render the change 
from outside to inside as gradual as possible, and 
to harden them as well, by admitting plenty of 
air both at top and sides of the house on all 
genial days. If any artificial heat is really 
required to dry up damp, or the like, light the 
fire in the moming, give air all day, and let the 
fire out towards night. Night warmth at this 
season is both unnatural and hurtful. 

Chinese Primulas should have a light, airy 
position near the glass, with a genial temperature, 
to cause them to look well. Get all Chry¬ 
santhemums under cover, reduce the strength of 
the manure water gradually, and cease giving 
it altogether when the flowers show colour. 

_ B. C. R. 

Bones as manure. — For some years I 
have used crushed bones in my suburban garden, 
as well ns stable and cow manure. Bones are 
handy to use, and involve less labour and dirt 
than the other manures. They are marvellous 
fertilisers. Let anyone try them next spring 
when sowing Spinach. For vegetable Beeds I 
use a mixture of j-inch bones and bone dust (as 
sold by the dealers). This is sprinkled in the 
row before the seed is put in. The sowing should 
be thin. For Cabbage and other plants the 
mixture is scattered on the ground, and dug in 
before planting. For lawns I have used bone 
meal, which is a fine powder and quicker in its 
action than the larger material, but where small 
quantities only are required, the above mixture 
does just as well when rolled in. When planting 
fruit trees I use 1-inch bones. The tree is put. 


in position and a little mould is thrown over the 
roots and then about a quart of J-inch bones is 
sprinkled on the mould before’filling in. In 
November we give the trees a mulching of half- 
rotten stable manure or that and cow manure 
mixed, about a forkful to each tree, taking care 
to keep clear of the stem, so as not to bring out 
fibrous roots above the level of the soil, as the 
manure will do if piled against the stem. The 
result is the trees are strong, healthy, and fruit¬ 
ful. The bones referred to above are sent out 
from the mill in bags of not less than Ij cwt., 
at the price of 8s. or 9s. the cwt. I estimate a 
bag to be well worth from two to three loads of 
stable manure. I should add that my soil is 
light, with a subsoil of sand and gravel.—C. G. 


THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 


LARGE-ROOTED CHICORY. 

This is a variety of the common Chicory, and al¬ 
though but little grown in this country, it is 
cultivated on an extensive scale in some parts of 
France for the sake of the roots, from which is 
manufactured the Chicory of commerce. It is 
also grown by some of the Parisian market 
gardeners, as the blanched tops which it produces 
in winter are of rather finer appearance than 



Root of Chicory. 


those obtained from the typical form. I would 
advise those who make a practice of forcing 
Chicory to give the large-rooted variety a trial. 
It requires the same general treatment as the 
ordinary kind, but when thinned out should have 
more space for development. It is best to sow 
the seed in rows 1 foot apart, allowing a space 
of from 6 inches te 8 inches (according to the 
character of the soil) from plant to plant. Do 
not sow before May, or the plants will run to 
seed. Give them an open position and cleanly 
culture, and large, well-matured roots will be 
obtained; these, if placed during winter in a 
warm, dark place, will furnish an abundance of 
crisp blanched leaves, which will be found a 
very acceptable addition to the usual run of 
winter salads. The seed can be obtained at most 
of the large seed houses. C. 


THE POTATO CROP. 

In this locality the Potato crop of 1883 has been 
a very abundant one, surpassing even that of 
1881, when the retail price was only 6d. per 
30 pounds. Our local papers report the unearth¬ 
ing of some huge tubers, each monster being 
snrpassed by another still more monstrous. The 
weight of the heaviest now standing at 3 pounds 
1 ounce. I have grown this season twenty-two 
varieties of potatoes, but have nothing to boast 
of in the way of extra huge tubers, which are, 
indeed, fit only for the hog-tub—as it is well 
known that potatoes which are above the 
average size lose in quality as they increase in 
bulk. In growing Potatoes I use no exciting 
manure, which in my opinion only tend to pro¬ 
duce disease and monstrous growth. My gar¬ 
den is a low-lying heavy clay, perhaps the most 
unsuitable of all land for a Potato crop. When 
improved and modified, however, by cultivation 



384 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 27, 1883. 


and manures, these clays are extremely fertile, 
and 1 can manage to grow good crops of tubers, 
and handsome enough to compete successfully 
with growers possessing the best Potato soils. 

I mention this merely as a cheering word to 
those readers of Gabdenins who think them¬ 
selves unfortunate in having to cultivate a clay 
soil. Of white kidneys I have Early May, 
Myatt’s Ashleaf, International, Cosmopolitan, 
and Magnum Bonnm. These have all done 
well, producing heavy and sound crops. With 
regard to the merits of Cosmopolitan, which 
came out last year, my experience differs entirely 
from that of “ X. Y. Z.” (query 10118), who 
describes it as “ poor in quality, yellowish, and 
by no means of a particularly handsome appear¬ 
ance.” Well, the flesh has certainly a yellow 
tint, but so has that of many other good Pota¬ 
toes. With me it is a good cropper, early, hand¬ 
some, and of excellent table quality. As to its 
size I have selected a dish of twelve tubers, fit 
for any exhibition, which weigh 106 ounces. It 
is, however, well known that the same Potato 
varies, both in crop and quality, on dissimilar 
soils, as well as on the same soil in different 
seasons, so that I never discard a variety that 
fails the first year, but try it again. 1 would 
advise “ X. Y. Z.” to do the same with Cosmo¬ 
politan, which is, I think, sure to come to the 
front. Feltham White, Bedfont Prolific, and 
Schoolmaster, among white rounds, have all done 
well, particularly the first, which is handsome, 
early, and good-flavoured. White Emperor has 
produced some fine and handsome tubers, and 
Scotch Champion gives a better crop and is freer 
from disease than usual. I grow only a few of 
this variety, preferring for a main crop its level¬ 
eyed and handsome rival Magnum Bonum, 
which not only equals it for table purposes, but 
is also a heavier cropper, and a far better keeper. 
A round white variety, sent out by Messrs. 
Sutton, and bearing the appropriate name of 
Fifty-fold, has proved the most productive kind 
that I have grown this season. The first root I 
lifted produced twenty one tubers, all tit for the 
table, and weighed together a trifle over 6 
pounds. It is a second early, with a robust 
growth of haulm of medium height, the tubers 
smooth and level-eyed, and of excellent quality. 

Of coloured kidneys, American Rose and its 
descendants, Beauty of Hebron, and White Ele¬ 
phant, have cropped heavily, but have all suffered 
more or less from disease on our heavy soil. Mr. 
Bresee, Wonderful Red, and American Purple 
have produced unusually heavy crops of hand¬ 
some tubers: Vicar of Laleham, Radstock 
Beauty, and Triumph, of the coloured rounds, 
have done extra well; White Grampian has been 
less prolific than usual; Reading Russet, how¬ 
ever, carries off the palm in this section for pro¬ 
ductive powers, being second only to Fifty-fold, 
which it equals in quality. I may add that I 
have grown most of the above varieties for three 
years, and have thus been able to ascertain their 
respective merits. Among them there are only 
three with which I am dissatisfied; these are 
Triumph, International, and Mr. Bresee, which, 
although good croppers and fine for exhibition, 
are not good for table, bearing more resemblance 
when cooked to the Tumip than the Potato. For 
this reason I must discard the two first-named 
kinds, as I last year discarded Snowflake and 
and Bresee’s Prolific, to which I found a similar 
description applicable. For size and shape as a 
red kidney, Mr. Bresee is, I think, unequalled, 
but Cosmopolitan should prove a good substitute 
on the exhibition table for International, while 
Reading Russet ought to cast Triumph far into 
the shade. J. Maetin. 

East Worcestershire. 


Ruby early-forcing Rhubarb— This 
is the most perfect kind I know, and must in 
time become the most popular Rhubarb for early 
forcing. Anyone who has to keep up a supply 
of this indispensable tart and pudding product 
would be astonished at its exceptional qualities 
as regards earliness,productiveness, and thorough 
goodness. Its colour is an intense cerise through- 
' 1 length and breadth, even in early-forced 
'i on . Vj; and its flavour is everything to be 
ueairea. . force ours on the ground as grown 
very treelyyjjj, Apple barrels and hot litter as 
a coverrng.-jj ^ rr 



hg ” U out of print, and w 
tb|r y- pt>l 1 (£% 


ROSES. 

ROSES IN WINTER. 

December, January, and February are the 
months in which there is the most difficulty in 
obtaining Roses, and unless a sufficient quantity 
of plants well established in pots are at hand, 
there is not much chance of keeping up a 
supply. The old method of dealing with Roses 
by taking them from the open ground and pot¬ 
ting them in autumn, and afterwards bringing 
them on to flower in heat, is wholly insufficient, as 
plants so treated have little, if any, root action 
going on to precede and sustain the top growth 
brought into existence by forcing, the result 
being that the plants, unless allowed to come on 
very slowly, produce a meagre bloom, alike 
uncertain in its quantity and in the time the 
flowers open, very different from the dependence 
that can be placed on plants that have been grown 
for, say, two or three years in pots. The Tea 
varieties are the only section that can be relied 
upon to produce flowers during the later and 
earliest months of the year. To have the blooms 
possessing anything like the size and quality 
which the London market growers have them, 
the growth which produces them must be made 
under glass. Plants that after flowering in 
spring were turned out in the open air and 
allowed to remain up to the present or a recent 
time will, if well attended to, be furnished with 
numbers of flower-buds, which will soon open 
when the plants are taken in and submitted to a 
little warmth, but such flowers will be much 
inferior in every way to those that are produced 
by shoots that have, as I have already said, been 
made under glass. Nevertheless, where fully 
developed flowers cannot be had, they will be use¬ 
ful ; and every means should be taken to insure a 
healthy condition in the plants by seeing that 
they are quite clear from aphides and red spider, 
and by keeping them in a house or pit with 
their heads near the roof, so that they may get 
plenty of light. Those who have not had much 
to do with Rose growing in winter frequently 
come to the conclusion that syringing overhead 
in the winter season is unnecessary or injurious; 
but this is by no means correct, for to keep 
them clean they should be syringed once a day, 
in all cases getting the water well to the under¬ 
sides of the leaves; the simple upper surface 
sprinkling of the foliage, often all that is 
given, is wholly insufficient to keep down 
red spider. At this season it is necessary 
to be careful not to get the soil in the 
pots too moist, as should this occur the young 
roots are sure to suffer; and it is well for young 
hands atRoseforcing to realise the fact that with¬ 
out the free and continuous formation of roots 
the growth will be weak and puny, and the flowers 
proportionately deficient in size and character. 
This particularly holds good with the Tea varie¬ 
ties, the nature of which, even when out-of- 
doors, is to be never wholly at rest except when 
completely frost-bound. With plants that have 
been thus taken in from the open air the object of 
the cultivator ought to be to encourage free, 
healthy growth to give a succession of flower 
after the buds already existed have opened, and 
which, if the plants are strong and vigorous and 
well managed, will be superior to that resulting 
from these outdoor formed buds. Where plants 
were put under glass about the beginning of 
September, a sufficient additional number should 
now be removed from cold pits, or wherever they 
have been placed for shelter, into the structure 
in which they are to bloom. The temperature 
should now be kept at from 50° to 56° in the 
night, standing the favourite white Niphetos at 
the warmest end, as it requires more heat than 
the other kinds. Mildew is not so likely to make 
its appearance in the winter season as during 
spring and summer; still, even now if cold 
draughts are allowed to come on the plants the 
young growth is sure to be affected with it. For 
this reason avoid all side air, but give a little at 
the roof ventilators every mild day, especially 
when it happens to be sunny, yet if the tempera¬ 
ture rises with the sun to 70° or above, it will 
do no harm. It is a mistake to use too many 
kinds for indoor culture, either in pots or 
planted out, as there are a few which bloom so 
much freer when forced than the generality of 
others, that it is better for ordinary purposes to 
confine the cultivation to such. The following 
may be relied upon :—Niphetos, white; Safrano, I 
apricot; Mdme. WUlermoz, white; Mdme. 
Falcot, apricot-yellow; Catherine Mermet, rose ' 


Isabella Sprunt, pale yellow; Goubault, bright 
rose; Gloire de Dijon, straw colour. If there 
are not already at hand in pots a sufficient stock 
of the Hybrid Perpetual varieties to add to the 
above for spring blooming, these should be at 
once obtained and potted. General Jacqueminot, 
red, has hitherto been the best for early work, 
to which may be added Baroness Rothschild, 
blush; Duke of Edinburgh, crimson-BCarlet; 
Annie Wood, red; Edouard Morren, cherry 
colour; Marchioness of Exeter, rose; Madame 
Lacharme, blush white; La France, peach; 
Captain Christy, flesh colour; Anna Alexieff, 
rose ; Alfred Colomb, red; and Dr. Andry, dark 
red. T. B. 


Climbing Rosea.— For archways thereally 
efficient Roses are the Evergreen kinds and 
Ayrshires—Fhlicith, Princesse Marie, Leopol- 
poldine d'Orleans, and Flora; bnt the flowers, 
though profusely produced, are individually 
small. The best larger-flowered kinds are H. 
C. Madame Plantier, white ; H. C. Vivid, red. 
For autumn flowering, Glorie de Dijon, yellow; 
Bouquet d’Or, yellow; Cheshunt Hybrid, red; 
and Reine Marie Henrictte, red, are good ever¬ 
green sorts.—G. P. 

10464.— Roses from seed. — Roses are 
easily raised from seed. The difficulty is to get 
the seed, as it is only in favourable seasons that 
the hips ripen. To give them the best chance, 
the early blooms should be allowed to produce 
seed. Success can only be hoped for in a hot 
season followed by a mild autumn. In a season 
like the present no hips will ripen except in 
warm localities. I have some of early Damask 
and Moss Rose, which are still quite green. The 
hips must be quite ripe and the skin nesrly 
black ; the seeds will then be hard and brown. 
The hips can be laid in layers in sand during 
winter, and sown early in the spriDg, or they 
may be sown at once.—J. D. 

10461.— Rose Feliolte Perpetue. - 

The long shoots of this Rose should never be 
shortened, but should be trained in a slightly 
arched form. It does not begin to flower freely 
until the third or fourth year after planting. All 
that is necessary in the way of prnningistothin 
ont shoots which are visibly aged and decrepit 
The new shoots will, in all likelihood, produce 
bunches of flowers from the axils of every leaf 
next year. It has just begun to grow freely.— 
J. D. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


CARNATIONS AND PICOTEES. 

In reply to query No. 10470, I might say that 
there is no difficulty whatever in obtaining these 
true to name, from any respectable florist. It 
would not answer for auy old established firm to 
send out plants not true to name. I have pur¬ 
chased nearly all the plants I have ever had from 
two firms, and I do not think that I have ever 
had a single variety not true to name. If I had, 

I am quite sure that I would only need to men¬ 
tion it, and the true sort would be sent at once. 

The great thing now-a-days is to getcheap plants; 
the purchaser must have them at a low price, 
and it is not possible to do this, and keep a large 
stock pure, so many of the show varieties have 
a tendency to sport. Many of them have also to 
be kept in frames during the winter, not that 
they are too tender to stand the winter, but be¬ 
cause they are apt to degenerate, or perhaps be 
injured by slugs or other depredators. I have 
just now been re-arranging our own stock, and 
the following is the cream of them. 

Carnations. 

Scarlet bizarres .-—Admiral Curzon (Eason), \ 
Arthur Medhurst (Dodwell), Fred (Dodwell), | 
Harry Turner (Dodwell), Mars (Hextall), Robert ; 
Lord (Dodwell). 

Crimson bizarres .—Harrison Weir (Dodwell), 

H. K. Mayor (Dodwell), Master Fred (Hewitt), | 
Rifleman (Wood), Mrs. Barlow (Dodwell), 1 
Thomas Moore (Dodwell). In this class Samuel j 
Barlow (Dodwell), now being sent out, is au 
acquisition. 1 

Pink and purple bizarres. — Falconbridge L 
(Hay), James Taylor (Gibbons), Sarah Pajne I 
(Ward),Squire Llewelyn(Dodwell),Squire Reason I 
(Dodwell),Unexpected (Turner).WilliamSkirving I; 
(Gorton), now being sent ont by Mr. Turner, and I 
Mrs. Anstiss, raised by Mr. Dodwell and beingl 
sent out by him, are great acquisitions. 1* 



Oct. 27, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


385 


Purple flakes. —Dr. Foster (Foster), James 
Douglas (Simonite), Squire Trow (Jackson), 
Florence Nightingale (Sealey), Earl Stamford 
(Elliott), Mayor of Nottingham (Taylor). Squire 
Whitbonrn, raised and now being sent out by 
Mr. Dodwell, is the best marked Sower in this 
class. 

Scarlet flakes .—Annibilator (Jackson), Clipper 
(Fletcher), John Bay ley (Dodwell), John Ball 
(Dodwell), Sportsman (Hedderley), William 
Mellor (Dodwell). There are three new introduc¬ 
tions in this class: Figaro and Matador, both 
raised by Dr. Abercrombie and sent out by 
Mr. Turner, and Henry Cannell (Dodwell), sent 
out by the raiser. They are all very desirable 
introductions in a weak class. 

Rose flakes .—James Merry weather (Wood), 
John Keet (Whitthead),Mrs. Matthews (Dodwell), 
Jessica (Turner), Mary Ann (Fletcher). Sybil 
(Holmes). In this class the new flowers for this 
year are Dorothy (Dodwell), a very pale rose; 


Estelle(Kellowes), L; Ethel (Fellowes), L; Fanny 
Helen (Niven), h ; Lady Louisa L; Miss Lee, H; 
Mrs. Allcroft (Turner), L; Mrs. Nichol (Simon¬ 
ite), l; Mrs. Payne (Fellowes), h; Royal Visit 
(Abercrombie), H ; Rosy Queen, H. Mr. Dod¬ 
well is sending out this year Esther Minnie, a 
seedling from Fanny Helen, but a much better 
flowerer. I think very highly of it. The above 
list comprises all the finest in cultivation. 

Great Gearies, Ilford. Jas. DOUULAS. 


THE DOUBLE CINQUEFOIL. 
(POTENTILLA). 

The double varieties of Potentillas constitute a 
class of showy and desirable hardy perennials. 
The double-flowered kinds are more showy than 
the single-flowered kinds, and they possess the 
additional advantage of lasting a longer time in 
perfection on the plant and also in a cut state. 
There seems to be about three dozen distinct 
named varieties, which may be all obtained in 


is to sow under a bell-glass. The seeds are some¬ 
times a whole year in terminating, like those of 
the Christmas Rose and many Primulas.—J. D. 


CULTURE OF AURICULAS. 

10481.—I have grown Auriculas for many 
years, and have now about 400 pots, besides 
a quantity of seedlings. My custom is to 
sow the seeds in April in shallow boxes of 
sandy peat, and as soon as the plants are large 
enough to handle, I prick them out about 14 
inches apart in other boxes, using richer soil con¬ 
taining a little loam and well-rotted manure. 
Cow manure is best if it can be obtained, but it 
should be thoroughly rotted. When the young 
plants have grown sufficiently to touch each 
other, they are potted into 3-inch pots and 
plunged in ashes half the depth of the pots, with 
a covering of old sashes to keep off heavy rains, 
but open on all sides, for they must have plenty 
of air. In spring I give them a shift into 44 or 



Flowers of the Double Cinquefoil (PotenUUa). 


Drawn In September last, from specimens Bent to us by Mr. Maries, of Lytham. 


and the two fine varieties raised by Mr. Gorton 
—Rob Roy and Tim Bobbin. The last two are 
Being sent out by Mr. Turner. 

Picotkes. 

In this class there are light and heavy-edged 
flowers; the letter H indicates the heavy, and L 
the light. 

Red edged. — Brunette (Kirtland), h ; Dr- 
Epps, a: J. B. Bryant (Ingram), H; John 
Frnith (Bower), H; Mrs. Bower (Bower), L; 
Clara (Bower), L; Princess of Wales (Fellowes), 
I H; Mrs. Gorton (Simonite), L; Thomas Wil¬ 
liam (Flowdy), L ; Violet Douglas (Simonite), L; 
Emily (Addis), L ; Mrs. Dodwell (Turner), H. 

Purple edged. — Alice (Lord) L; Alliance 

\ Fellowes), h; Baroness Burdett Coutta (Payne), 
; Clara Penson (Wilmer), L; Her Majesty 
(Addis), L; Mary (Simonite), L; Mrs. A. Chan- 
•llor (Turner), H : Mrs. Summers (Simonite), 
I ; Muriel (Hewitt), h; Nymph (Lord), L; Picco 
(Jackson), H ; Zerlina (Lord), H. ' 

Rose and scarlet erfyei/A^Obngtanoe Hlron, 
( Mlowes),[ H ; Edith Do^jbrji{j' , ’u) de/)| |£ 


any of the large hardy plant nurseries. These 
represent every type of shade, size, and colour 
that it is possible to obtain, though such a large 
number is not indispensable, as a good selection 
of the most distinct kinds would be found to 
embrace most of the qualities of the whole race. 
The culture of these plants is, as is the case with 
most hardy flowers, a simple matter; they 
luxuriate in a light deep soil. The more fully 
exposed the position which they occupy is, the 
better it appears to suit them; and thus treated 
they soon form vigorous specimens, and produce 
flowers in great profusion for many weeks in 
succession—in fact, from the beginning of 
summer till the middle of autumn. A packet of 
good seed sown in spring will yield a variety of 
colours. The worthless ones can be weeded out, 
and the good ones planted in permanent quarters. 


10162.- Gentiana aoaulla— There is no 
real difficulty in raising this plant from seed 
beyond the exercise of the necessary patience, 
The seed should be sown as soon as ripe, and 
must never be allowed to get dry. The best plan 


5-inch pots, using a compost of two parts loam, 
one part rotted dung, and a good sprinkling of 
coarse gritty sand. They are then placed on a 
stage erected against a wall facing the north, 
and when the buds form, a little weak soot 
water is given them about twice a week till the 
flowers open, when it is discontinued. When 
in bloom I mark those which I wish to propagate, 
and in August these are repotted, each plant 
producing perhaps two or more off-sets, which 
are carefully labelled, and plunged as above 
described for the winter, receiving the same 
treatment as the seedlings. I consider it wrong 
to over-water Auriculas at any time, but they 
must not be allowed to “ flag " for want of it. 

They require no sunshine ; a shady place suits 
them best. Simply cover them sufficiently to 
keep off the rain, for the foliage should not be 
wetted, and they will stand any amount of froBt 
without injury, though in the case of plants 
intended to produce exhibition flowers, special 
treatment is necessary. 1 have only spoken so 
far of plants for ordinary purposes. If a cool 
greenhouse is available in spring, in which to 
























386 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 27, 1883. 


place the plants to bloom, better results may be 
obtained than on an exposed stage. “Approving 
Reader ” speaks of yellow leaves constantly ap¬ 
pearing. It is natural for the outer leaves to 
fade in autumn. These should be removed care¬ 
fully, so as to allow the air to reach the stems; 
but if the whole of the foliage turns yellow, 
there is something wrong—if not the drainage, 
perhaps the cause may be wireworms, which 
once caused me much anxiety. My plants were 
evidently goiDg wrong, and, on examination, I 
found the roots infested with these troublesome 
vermin. My remedy was to shake out my whole 
stock, wash the roots, and repot them in some 
clean, fresh compost, when they rapidly re¬ 
covered. I shall be happy to give any further par¬ 
ticulars I can upon the culture of that much- 
neglected plant—the Auricula. Why so few 
persons take any interest in growing it, I never 
could understand. South London. 


GLADIOLUS COLVILLEI THE ERIDE. 
This fine hardy flower is of an enduring nature, 
thriving vigorously where theGandavensishybrids 
do . ot prove satisfactory. Where cut flowers 
a much in request, it should be extensively 
e livated, as by its purity and graceful growth 
it is in place in even the choicest floral decora¬ 
tions. I strongly recommend this flowering bulb 
to the notice of small growers who wish to 
embellish their glasshouse or windows with 
pretty flowers early in the year, as by a simple 
system of culture it may be brought into bloom 
at a time when flowers in the open are yet rare. 
To ensure an early bloom, the bulbs should be 
potted early in November, putting two in a 
4.1-inch pot or three together in a 6-inch pot. 
Take a good mellow compost of fibrous loam, 
with some leaf-mould and a little well-decayed 
manure, adding a good dash of silver or river 
sand. Pot firmly, putting a good pinch of soot 
on the drainage to keep worms out, bury the 
bulbs about 1 inch, water the soil, and then 
plunge the pots to the rims in a cold frame, 
covering over with light soil, ashes, or Cocoa- 
fibre. In this way no more water will be 
needed, and the pots will become fairly 7 filled 
with roots by February, when they may, if there 
is such convenience.be placed in gentle warmth, 
or they may be brought into a cool green¬ 
house. They will soon appear above the 
soil, and should then have a light position, 
watering at first carefully and very moderately, 
but as they advance in growth more freely. 
When the flower-stems are some fi inches high, 
put to each one a neat stake, and if you give 
them the attention they need, and admit suffi¬ 
cient air to keep them sturdy, whilst keeping 
them warm enough to advance their growth, you 
will get fine potfulls of healthy luxuriant foli¬ 
age with correspondingly large, well-formed 
blooms, which will charm you by their purity 
and elegance, and will, by their beauty, amply 
compensate for all pains incurred in their cul¬ 
ture. Those who have never yet grown this 
Gladiolus will have a treat to come— a joy in 
gardening hitherto untasted. I may here add 
that its price places it within reach of a very 
slender purse; it has neither the merit of being 
new, rare, or of difficult culture, facts which 
have caused it to be overlooked by many, but 
which will, doubtless, have their proper weight 
with the readers of Gabdening generally, who 
will be careful to welcome such plants as com¬ 
bine beauty with ease of culture. Coming to the 
question of open-air culture, I have merely to 
warn would-be growers against soils wherein 
clay predominates, and where the drainage is 
such as not to allow of the free passage of water 
through it. When you have such an unfavourable 
rooting medium to deal with, you will have to 
ameliorate it to the best of your ability, and the 
more wood ashes, river sand, and thoroughly 
rotted leaf-mould you add to it, the greater will 
be your gain at blooming time. Something of 
this kind must be done, as in such cold retentive 
soils the bulbs sometimes perish, or come up so 
feebly, by reason of imperfect root action, as to 
rob this fairiflower of more than half its worth. 
An excellent plan, and one much followed by 
some Carnation growers, is to raise the soil in 
beds some 4 inches above the ordinary garden 
level. As in such soils the Bulbs need not be 
planted more than 3 inches deep, it follows that 
they are amply guaranteed against over-wetness 
and decay. This may easily be done where this 
Gladiolus is W"oe 'largely grow l for cutting, but 


in the border it cannot, of course, so well be ac¬ 
complished, and all that can be done there is to 
lighten the soil as much as possible in the above- 
mentioned manner, putting a spadeful of ashes 
or some Cocoa-fibre over them in early winter. 
With light loam or porous soils generally, the 
only really important point is the nourishment 
to be given; the bulbs are sure to root well in 
them, but these roots must have plenty of good 
food, and this, in the case of established plants, 
is best given in the form of a mulch of decayed 
manure some 3 inches thick, putting it on in 
November. Very light soils should be stirred to 
the depth of 18 inches, and the bulbs may be set 
tothedepthof from 4 inches to 6 inches, according 
to natural drainage and porosity. The sooner 
the bulbs are planted the better. 

Surrey. 3. C. Byfleet. 


10485.— Single Dahlias. —As soon as frost 
destroys the foliage, cut them down to within a 
foot of the soil, take them up carefully, and 
place them in a cool, dry place. They do not 
need to be covered with soil, bnt will keep well 
laid on the floor of a cool house where frost does 
not come, or in any frost-proof building. They 
will keep in an ordinary shed if covered with 
litter in severe weather. In April, or sooner if 
possible, pot them in light soil, and when they 
break give them a light position.—.1. C. B. 

- The following is the way in which 

I kept some tubers of Dahlias through last 
winter, and as it answered well, I intend fol¬ 
lowing it again this year. When the frost cut 
the leaves and stems of the Dahlias, the tubers 
were taken up carefully, selecting a dry day for 
the purpose, and the stems were cut about 5 or 
6 inches from the tubers. There is often a little 
liquid in the hollow stems, which must be 
emptied out. The tubers were then exposed to 
the light and air for a few days to dry, after 
which they were stored in boxes with dry ashes, 
covered down, and put in a cellar until the 
spring. The Dahlias so treated have been in 
full bloom all the summer; some in 12-inch pots 
commenced blooming in the beginning of J une 
in the open garden, and are still flowering this 
13th day of October.— White Queen. 


FRUIT. 

The Brandy (Morello) Cherry.— This 
seems to be a most prolific form of fruit tree for 
this part of the country; and indeed Morellos on 
all aspects, as we have them here, are very pro¬ 
lific. But what I wish to say a few words in 
favour of is, the dwarf mode of growing this 
line, useful fruit. A row of trees bordering one 
of our kitchen gardens here has been laden with 
fruit, and admired by everyone who has seen it. 
They were, moreover, very beautiful at the 
flowering time, and branches of the trees were 
used freely in floral decorations. I should say a 
quarter planted with these dwatf bushes, and 
attended to as to pruning—not too severely— 
would prove a most profitable outlay. They 
should be planted from 8 feet to 10 feet apart 
all ways, and cropped between moderately for 
the first half-dozen years, and where sewage or 
manure water can be got handy, a dose of it 
after the stoning period would be found bene¬ 
ficial, as also would a mulching of rotten 
manure spread over the roots in winter and 
allowed to exhaust itself without being forked in. 
Owing to the flowers opening later than those of 
the table kinds, and to the tendency of their slim 
shoots to bend to circumstances, storms and 
winds have not the same effect on them as on 
stiffer habited forms of fruit trees. Morellos are 
liked by many as a dessert fruit, especially when 
ripened in the sun, and not on a north wall, and 
certainly they are more wholesome than some of 
the so-called table kinds.—H. K., Henley-on- 
Thames. 

10469.— Moving fruit trees— Now is the 
best time to move fruit trees, or as soon as the 
fruit is gathered. Commence by taking a trench 
out 3 feet from the stem of the tree all round 
until you get below the roots that are growing 
in a horizontal direction; take a fork and work 
away the soil; preserve all the roots, and lift 
with as large a ball of earth as possible. Try and 
undermine the tree, getting it gently over to one 
side first; place a mat underneath, then push the 
tree to the opposite side; get the mat well in 
below the ball to keep it together, and to lift by. 
Before planting, cut off all wounded roots with a 


sharp knife. When planting spread the roots out 
evenly, and work the soil well in between them. 
If the soil is dry, water when planting. Avoid 
planting deeply; rather let the base of the stem 
be above the level of the surrounding ground. 
Make the tree fast to a stake, in case 
of high winds. If the pyramids are large, the 
best way to make them fast is with three pieces 
of wire in the form of a tripod ; put a piece of 
doth round the stem (well up) to keep the wire 
off the bark, fasten the wire to the stem, then 
stretch and fasten to three stakes put in at equal 
distance round the tree. Mulch all over the 
roots with rotten manure to keep frost out. 
Lifting and planting again is much better than 
root pruning for bringing trees into fruit bear¬ 
ing.—J. Robertson, Condenknowes. 


THH VILLA GARDEN. 

{Continued from paye 368.) 


The Heath House. 

A good many years ago, I knew an amateur 
whose hobby was the culture of Heaths. He 
had mounds of hardy Heaths in his back garden, 
and beds and borders of bright pink Heather 
adorned his front. Into his greenhouse no other 
plant was admitted. He had a low pit fall of 
young plants that had been propagated with his 
own hands, and which, in course of time, would 
be promoted to the greenhouse stage. Heaths 
adorned his sitting-room window, and I verily 
believe he had Ericas on the brain. At any rate. 
Heaths in many varieties formed his hobby and 
had become a part of his existence; and let me 
ask where can a better, brighter, or cheaper 
hobby be found t And if the conditions which 
Heaths require are present, there is no difficulty 
in their culture, and these requirements are ex¬ 
ceedingly simple—pure air, free from damp and 
stagnation, peaty soil freely intermixed with 
sand to keep it porous. In the case of the hard- 
wooded kinds, bits of sandstone intermixed are 
valuable for keeping the soil in an equable state 
as to moisture; free drainage, so that no stagnant 
moisture can remain near the roots, and firm pot¬ 
ting in all stages of their growth, which for the 
most part should be done early in the season, 
are details it will be well to remember. H a 
plant is potted in autumn, it should only be on 
the principle of choosing the least of two evils, 
and when a pot-bound plant might suffer if left 
till spring. Just enough artificial heat to keep 
out frost and expel stagnant damp and no more; 
a thin shade over those plants in blossom during 
bright weather; a light house, with the stages 
not too far from the glass; pure soft water, 
enough being given to moisten each plant 
thoroughly when it iB required, and then leave 
them without till the ball is becoming dry again 
—are items which should not be lost sight of. 

In winter no more water should be spilled ou the 
paths or stages than can be helped, but at the 
same time each plant should have enough water 
given, when it is necessary to water at all, to run 
out at the bottom. These constitute the chief 
of the requirements of the Erioa family, and 
scarcely anything can have simpler or quieter 
wants, for the labour required is a mere nothing. 
The reason why so many people fail to grow 
Heaths well is, they keep them in stuffy houses 
mixed up with a lot of soft-wooded rubbish. For 
the most part, gardeners are heavily handicapped 
in the culture of this class of plants. At times 
every bit of blossom has to be taken to the con¬ 
servatory, and the Ericas must yield to the same 
conditions as the denizens of the stove and other 
plants, and so the Heaths, in coarse of time, 
dwindle and die. 

There is no class of plants capable of inspiring 
so much interest as the one under consideration. 

If they are given a nice light house, and are 
permitted to remain in it, carrying out the rules 
of treatment I have laid down above, with a 
good collection some will always be in flower, 
and though they can only be used sparingly as 
cut flowers, yet they will furnish very choice 
button-hole bouquets all the year round with 
little sprays of Maiden-hair Fem for greenery, I 
and the latter may be grown under the stages so J 
os to be always available. All through the sum-1 
mer, and as far into the autumn as possible,! 
night ventilation must be given, avoiding coldl 
draughts or chills. A damp, stagnant atmosphenf 
will generate mildew, which is about the on If I 
disease Heaths are subject to, and all tlirougll 



Oct. 2/, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


387 


the dark, dull days a watch mast be kept for 
the appearance of the pest, and the moment dis¬ 
colouration of the bright green foliage appears, 
apply the usual remedy—sulphur—and follow it 
up till the mildew is destroyed. Mildew, when 
left to work its will upon a plant, quickly 
<lestroys the foliage, and death, in the case of 
Heaths, rapidly ensues. 

Pruning and Training. 

The hard-wooded slow-growing kinds require 
but little pruning; indeed, the tricolors and a 
few others had better not be touched at all 
■with die knife, but the soft kinds should be cut 
back regularly after blooming to keep them 
well furnished. As regards training, a certain 
amount of staking is necessary after the plants 
get large to keep them in proper order. The 
soft-wooded kinds, such as hyemalis, Willmo 
reana, kc., do not require staking; in fact, they 
look better without it. Secure a good healthy 
bottom by stopping the plants freely when 
young, and the growth the plants make after¬ 
wards in spring will flower in winter, and be 
sturdy and strong enough to be self-supporting. 
The habit of growth of all the Ericas is so neat, 
and there is so much variety in the shade and 
tints of their foliage, that the plants even when 
not in flower are ornamental. The dead flowers 
must be picked off as soon as they fade, unless 
we wish to save seeds from any particular 
variety; and there is an opportunity for any 
persevering cultivator to hand his name down to 
posterity, as others have done before him, for a 
really good seedling Heath will have something 
more than the ephemeral duration which 
attached to the majority of new things annually 
introduced. After the plants have been cut 
back, which should be done as soon as the 
flowering is over, those so operated upon should 
be placed at one end of the house and kept a 
little closer till the young growth breaks away, 
when, if repotting is necessary, it should be 
done. I f well grown, specimen Heaths have a 
considerable value in a commercial sense, and 
when they get too large they may be disposed 
of to make room for the young specimens coming 
on, and it is always best to have a relay of 
young plants coming on in succession, because 
even under the best management plants will 
get old and die. These young plants 
summer will do well in a cold frame or 
pit, but in winter they will do better and be 
safer in the house on shelves near the glass. In 
the summer management many- of the best cul¬ 
tivators prefer keeping their specimen plants 
altogether under the shelter of glass, as then 
heavy rains or winds cannot injure them; but 
overcrowding in the house must be avoided. It 
is better to grow only a few plants, and grow 
them well, than have a large collection and spoil 
them by overcrowding, and no class suffers so 
soon from this as Heaths do, simply because 
fresh air is an absolute necessity, and there 
cannot be an efficient circulation when plants 
are crowded together. If a part of the stock of 
Heaths mast be turned out in summer, put out 
the soft-wooded kinds, such as hyemalis, Will- 
moreana, Cavendishi, &c. These kinds are rather 
benefited by open-air treatment from themiddle 
of Joly to the middle of September. Always, in 
potting Heaths, keep the collar of the plants 
well up; there is less danger of overwatering 
when the centre of the ball is elevated from 
half an inch to an inch above the circumference 
near the edge of the pot, or a little more in the 
case of large specimens. 

The E race is. 

This may be associated with the Heath, having 
some resemblance to it in character and growth, 
ongh as regards the latter the Epacris is less 
?nse and more erect in habit. It is very valu- 
ple for winter flowering, and there are now 
_y beautiful varieties, including the garden 
G rids, embracing all shades of colour between 
-c-white and bright crimson. The long shoots, 
•well ripened, flower nearly their whole length, 
tj are very effective as cut flowers, or the plants 
twelves may for a short time be moved into 
a,- position where particular effects are sought 
t<s» improvised. In this respect they are much 
g 1 rate manageable than Heaths. But though this 
-.is It ease, no more risk should be run than is 
' ? ,ne«5sary.' If specimen Epacris are moved to 
thee onservatory, they should occupy a light 
oosfcn, and be carefully watered, and should 
\ot sm'ain there too long. AVhen the flowers 
ade,the young shoots shofcld tejrt ’ 


i nuuuiu 

! flowers 


within a few inches of the base from whence 
they spring. Just after the pruning a little 
higher temperature will be an advantage to in¬ 
duce the new growths to come up strongly. 
This higher temperature may be secured by 
keeping the plants that require it altogether 
at one end of the house, and keep that end 
closed. Where there is a vinery or 1‘each-bouse, 
such plants as Epacrises that are not much 
subject to insects may be placed in its genial 
warmth. It is a great help to increase the tem¬ 
perature a few degrees, and to use the syringe 
freely when young shoots are pushing up. It gives 
them a better start, and leads on to the produc¬ 
tion of more and better blooming wood. But 
they must not remain in the vinery or Peach- 
house too long, or the shoots may become weakly 
and drawn. Re-potting, if it is necessary, may 
be done when the young shoots have fairly 
started, but the Epacris, like the Erica, does not 
require shifting into larger pots till the pots they 
already occupy are full of roots. Firm potting 
is essential, and sandy peat is the best soil; but 
I have seen them grow well in loam and leaf- 
mould with a liberal admixture of sand. 

Propagating Heaths. 

There are two ways of increasing our stock of 
Heaths. First, there is the natural plan of 
saving seeds, and secondly there is the pro¬ 
pagator’s method of raising them from cuttings, 
which is the best, indeed the only, plan of per¬ 
petuating established kinds. 

From seeds .—As regards raising them from 
seeds, it is not much practised, except by 
enthusiastic growers who are not content to 
follow always in the track of other men. The 
seed-pods should be gathered as they show signs 
of ripening, be placed in a saucer or saucers if 
we are saving more than one variety at the 
same time, and be kept in a cool, airy room. 
As soon as the pods are ripe and dry, rub them 
out, and put up the seeds in packets till March, 
that being the best month to sow, because the 
seeds are a long time in vegetating, sometimes 
remaining in the ground six months; and by 
sowing early there may be a chance of getting 
them all up and established before the dark 
days are upon us. Sow in 6-inch pots, filling 
them half-full of drainage; fill in the remaining 
space to within half an inch of the top of 
the pot with peat and sand in about equal 
portions. Make all firm, sow the seeds, and 
cover with a light sprinkle of sand. Heath 
seeds are very fine, and if covered beyond the 
merest sprinkle, they may perish rather than 
grow. As soon as the seeds are all sown, 
water them with a fine-rosed pot, and place 
in a close frame without any artificial heat. 
Keep the seeds moist, and cover the frame with 
mats in frosty weather during spring. Shade from 
bright sunshine, and give air as soon as the 
seeds vegetate—only a little at first, to be in¬ 
creased afterwards. Pot off the young plants 
when large enough to handle, placing them 
several in a pot—round the edges chiefly—the 
compost to be the same as for the seed pots, 
using small pots. Many of the hard-wooded 
kinds are difficult to root from cuttings, and the 
work of raising seedlings has an interest of its 
own, especially to the amateur with plenty of 
time on his hands. liaising seedling Heaths 
may be hastened if a little artificial heat is em¬ 
ployed in the earlier stages, but it involves some 
risk, and the young plants are not so hardy and 
strong as when kept in the cool frame. 

From cuttings .—Fill as many 8-inch pots as 
are required two-thirds full of drainage, with a 
layer of Moss on the top to keep the drainage 
material clear. On this place peat and sand in 
equal proportions, leaving about an inch on top 
for sand. When all is made firm, water with a 
fine-rosed pot, mark the position of the bell- 
glasses on the surface of the sand, and dibble 
in the cuttings just within the mark. An 8-inch 
pot will hold a good many cuttings; several 
roots will probably go in one pot, and in selecting 
the cuttings, it may be as well to pick out those 
which resemble each other in character, so that 
all may bo rooted about the same time. There 
is no advantage in having large cuttings; they 
neednotexceedfrom half inch to 1 inch in length, 
and should neither be too hard nor too soft. If 
just getting a little firm at the base, they will 
be suitable. The leaves should be stripped from 
the lower half of the stem, and the base be cut 
smooth with a sharp knife. Heaths may be pro- 
Vpagated at almost any season when suitable 


cuttings can be obtained. If done in summer, 
and the plants from which the cuttings are 
taken have been exposed to the air, place the 
cuttings in a cold frame, keep close, and shade 
when the sun shines on them, wiping the bell- 
glasses every morning. No other plants should 
be in the frames. If the cuttings are taken in 
spring, or when the plants are under glass, the 
cuttings should have a very little warmth, with 
the same attention in shading and wiping glasses 
once a day as in the former cases. Cuttings of 
delicate plants are often lost by using impure 
sand; and it is a good plan to wash the sand for 
this purpose. As soon as the cuttingB are rooted 
and hardened sufficiently by ventilation, they 
should'be potted into small pots—four or five 
round the sides of a 8-inch pot and replaced in 
the frame. 

Varieties of Heath. 

I append a selection of useful Heaths and 
Epacrises that will give a succession of blossoms 
throughout the season :— 

Soft-nooded Heaths. —Bowieana, caffra nana, 
Cavendishi, colorans, c. nana, depressa, elegans, 
eximia, gracilis vernalis, g. autumnalis, hyemalis, 
propendens, tubiflora, ventricosa alba, v. mag¬ 
nifies, v.liothwelliana, v.coccinea minor, v.rosea, 
vestita alba, v. coccinea, v. rosea, Villmoreana, 
superba. 

Hard-wooded Heaths. —Aitoniana, ampullacea 
major, Archeriana, aristata, cerinthoides, De- 
voniana, Eweriana superba, gemmifeia elegans, 
Hartnelli superba, hybrids, inflata alba, Irbyana, 
jasminiflora alba, Lambertiana rosea, maid- 
stoniensis, mammosa major, Marnockiana, me- 
lanthera, mirabilis, odorata, Parmentieri 
rosea, perspicua ereota, reflexa, retorta major, 
Savileana major, Sindiyana rubra, tortilireflora, 
tricolor coronata, t. elegans, t. exquisita, t. flam- 
mea, t. impressa, t. superba, t. rosea, t. Wilsoni 
superba, triumphans, vernix coccinea, princepB 
coccinea major. 

Epacrises.— Ardentissima, delicata, Eclipse, 
der.siflora, grandiflora rubra, hyacinthiflora 
candidissima, impressa, impressa alba, miniata 
splendens, pulchella major, The Bride, tricolor, 
Vesuvius, magnifica, splendida, Lady Alice Peel. 

Propagating New Holland and other 

IIard-wooded Plants. 

The large seed houses keep seeds of many of 
the above, which, if sown in spring in a gentle 
warmth, will make nice little plants the same 
season. They may also, with a very few ex¬ 
ceptions, be increased by cuttings, using the 
same precautions as for Heaths. Eriostemons 
and Correas are difficult to strike, and are 
usually grafted on suitable stocks. In the case 
of Eriostemons, I have succeeded very well with 
one of the free-growing Pimeleas as a stock, 
such as P. decussata. The better kinds of 
Correas take well on a free-growing species of 
their own family, Correa alba beiDg generally 
employed. 

The grafting is a very simple process, and 
seldom fails if the necessary conditions are 
present. If the grafting be done in summer, a 
close frame or pit will suffice, shading when the 
sun shines. At other seasons a little warmth 
will be necessary, keeping close and shading 
till the union is effected, which will be in about 
a month or six weeks. Constant watchfulness 
is necessary in propagating, as there are many 
little details in the work that cannot be set 
down here. In the case of the plants referred 
to the grafting is done when the stocks are 
about as thick as a large sized quill, the graft, a 
young healthy shoot just getting firm at the 
bottom, being fixed on the side of the stem 
2 inches or 3 inches from the ground. The pro¬ 
cess of attachment is as follows: A thin slice of 
bark and wood is cut away from the stem of the 
stock by a downward cut about 2 inches long. 
When the knife, which must bo as sharp as a 
razor, has descended far enough maintaining a 
regular even course all through, it is withdrawn, 
and its keen edge is applied outside at the 
bottom of the cut slip of bark and wood in a 
slanting direction, until the slip of wood is 
severed and becomes detaeted, leaving a little 
nick into which the bottom of the scion when 
prepared will fit. The graft is prepared by 
cutting a thin slice from its side to make it fit 
the cut position on the tide of the stock, and 
when the fit is perfect and complete, bind the 
two together firmly with something soft— 
worsted or cotton yam will do. The head of 
the stock should be reduced to check the flow 






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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
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3iH) 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Oct. 27, 1883 


CATALOGUE OP PERNS, 

Illustrated and descriptive, with cultural notes, 3 stamps. 

CATALOGUE OP ALPINE PLANTS, 

Illustrated and descriptive, free on application. 

LIST OF HARDY ORCHIDS, 

With full cultural instructions, free on application. 

The following expression of opinion is from one of the 
highest authorities in the land on the subject of Ferns 
“ I have gone very carefully through your list, and, without 


British Ferns out" 

F. W. 4H. 8TANSFIELD, Nurserymen, 8ale, Manchester. 

TTARDY ORCHID3.—12 choice kinda, in- 

XI eluding 6 Exotic, with full cultural instructions, 5s. 
—STANSFIELD'S, Sale. _ 

T*ERNS AND BEGONIAS.—Four Maiden hair 

X FernB, two varieties ; two variegated Ferns and Bix 
Begonias, with beautifully marked leaves, 2s. 6<L, free.— 
MAT RT S 4 CO., Weston-in-Gordano, Bristol 

CNE FARLEYENSE, the moat beautiful Fern 
U that grows ; two climbing Begonia fuchaioides, coming 
into tlower; two variegatea Lycopodiums; two scarlet 
Epipbyllum that will flower all the winter. The collection 
free for 2s. 6d.-M.AlK.IS 4 CO., Weston-in-Gordano. 
Bristol. _ 

rPHE BEAUTIFUL MAIDEN HAIR FERNS, 

X Adiantum cardiochlamum, Adiantum concinnum latum, 
two winter-flowering Begonias, two Bcarlet Epiphyllums, and 
two greenhouse climbers, beautifully variegated; the eight 
plants correctly named, free 2s. 6d. — MALRI8 k CO., 
Weston-in-Gordano. Bri stol. ___ 

"DOSES ON OWN ROOTS. — Wonderfully 

Xv cheap : from 10 inches to 15 inches high ; strong plants, 
will soon bloom ; Homere, Souvenir d'Elute, Kfivo d’Or and 
Gloire de Dijon, the four for 2s. 6<L, free; price per dozen, 
7 a., tre e. — MAIKI8 k CO., Weston in-Oord an o, Bristol. 

WINTER-FLOWERING BEGONIAS—Eight 

V V strong plants, will flower all the winter, for 2s 6cL, free; 
Sempertlorens, Weltoniensis, Parvillora, and Fuchsioides.— 
MAlBla k CO., WeEton-in-Gordano. Bristol. _ 

■RED GLOIRE DE DIJON (the new Rose) and 
Xu four beautiful perpetual Roses, all on own roots, 
the five strong trees, 2s. 6d free, or 12 for 5s.— MAIRIS & 
CO., Weston-in-Qordano, Bristol._ 


CjPECIAL ATTENTION is invited to the fob 

^ lotting advertisements. They may be regarded as out 


variety in cultivation; blooms 3 inches across, perfect 
rosettes. Awarded 1st class certificate R. H.8. Were admired 
by thousands at H R.H. Duchess of Teck’s stall; also at Lady 
Peek’s bazaar, opened by Gen Sir F. Robetts Plants 6s. per 
dozen ; extra large two-year-old, 9j. and 12s. per dozen.—W. 
WE ALE, Taplow, Bucks. _ 

ft/TRS. SINK.INS ! MRS. SINKINS 11-Cut- 

XIX tings of this wonderfully free-flowering, hardy white 
Clove Pink in exchange for other good useful plants. List of 
thoBe wanted on app licatio n. —W. Wj fi ALE, Taplow, Buckg. 

Spring Bedding Plante. 

TTIOLAS.— Thousands of Mrs. Gray, finest 

V white ; True Blue, best blue; Lord Daraley. a great beat 
on Holyrood, all 2s. 6d. per dozen, cheaper per 100; elegans, 
Queen of Lilacs, and other varieties. 

PAN8IES.—Very choice show and fancy Pansies by 
name, from 2s. 6d. per dozen. 

POLYANTHUS.—Dean’s Giant, yellow, white, and dark, 
strong plants. 9s. 6d. per doz., 15s. per 100 
WALLFLOWERS, dark, yellow, and Harbinger; Golden 
Valerian, blue and white, Tom Thumb Forget-me-not. 
Bilene, and various otherplants; prices on on application, 
BARLOW'S GIANT SWEET WILLIAM, strong young 
plants. 2?. per dozen. 12s. per 100. 

DOUBLE SWEET WILLIAMS, Btrong, struck from cut¬ 
tings, 2s. 6d. dozen. 

WILLIAM DEAN, FlerUt, Walsall, Staffordshire. 

Impossible to buy Cheaper 

FOR 

Same Quality and Correctness. 

DULBS FOR THE GARDEN.-650 for 21s., 

Jj viz., 24 Hyacinths, 32 Tulips, 87 Narcissi and Daffodils, 
200 Crocus. 25 Anemones, 37 Ranunculus, 27 Iris, 6 Gladiolus, 
6 Lilies, 100 Snowdrops, 50 yellow Aconites, 6 Alliums. 50 He- 
patlcas, all in varied and best selected sorts. Similar selection 
of 300 for 10s. 6d. Forwardedpackage and carriage free (with 
catalogue, illustrated in colours) on receipt of remittance, by 
HOOPER & OO., The Covent Garden Seed Warehouse, 
London. W,C. _ 

BLUE HEPATICAS. 

The loveliest flower of spring either 
for Pots or the Garden. 

Never before offered bo cheaply. Should now be planted by 
hundreds in borders, edgings, rockeries, shrubberies, 4c. 
Nothing more charming. 

Prices: lOOO, 31s. 0d.; 100,3s. 00.; 50,2s., free. 


HOOPER & CO., 

OOVHNT GARDEN,'LONDON . 
TTOOPER’S GARDENING GUIDE.—“An 

II unfailing source of information and delight." Number- 
leas other readers testify to its being the most useful, enter¬ 
taining, and cheapest work in our language. 2s. 6d., post free 
9b. lid.—HOOPER 4 CO.. Oovent Garden and all booksellers. 

The Publisher begs to announce that the positions of Adver¬ 
tisements cannot be settled beforehand, nor can anu guarantee 
be given for the continued repetition of the same Advertisement 
<i successive weeks. 


Google 


^ lotting advertisements. They may be regarded as otir 
special autumn cheap offers. It should be noted by amateurs 
trial this is certainly the best season for replanting Post trees. 
The Rosts offered below are of unusual good quality, well 
ripened, well rooted, and in the rarest and most superb 
varieties. ___ ' 

6 LOVELY MOS3 ROSE TREES, in (i finest 

namo*i kinds, for 4 b., including the beautiful white Mess 
Rose and the crested; good plants, well rooted, quite hardy. 

The Mess Roses you sent me were very beautiful."— 
RYDER 4 SON, Sale. Manchester. 


IQ FINEST EXHIBITION ROSE TREES, in 

J.CS 12 favourite varieties, including Gloire de Dijon. 4c., 
for 8a. We grow none but the best, and if particulars are 
given, will select those best suited to any locality. “The 
Roses I had from you last autumn are now in bloom, and are 
magnificent." Very carefully packed, Write for catalogue to 
select from. A fine collection of 25 Boses in 25 separate 
named kinds, all the best, for 15s. 6d.—RYDER & SON, hale, 
Manchester. 

C OLD-FASHIONED CLIMBING ROSES in 

U six named kinds for 4s. Tlieee are grand kinds for grow¬ 
ing rapidly and flowering profusely. These rare old Roses 
are very useful for covering rapidly bare spaces on walls, ar¬ 
bours, verandahs, 4c.; very good plants.—RYDER 4 SON, 
Sale, Manchester. 

(^STANDARD ROSE TREES in six excel- 

U lent kinds for 8s. ; varieties that succeed as standards; 
good straight stems, well ripened healthy heads; this is a 
very reasonable price ; 3 for 4s. ed., 12 for 15s.; very carefully 
packed.—RYDER & SON, Sale, Manchester. 


OWEET BRIERS, nice bushy plants. Is. fid. 

kj per pair; a few nice plants of Marechai Niel Rose at Is. 
each: Gloire de Dijon on own roots very good for pots, at 
Is. each, 2 feet high; China or Fairy Roses, the two varie¬ 
ties (blush and crimson) for Is. 4d. These are perpetual 
blooming and may also be grown in pots in the greenhouse, 
producing an abundance of pretty flowers ; all carefully 
packed.—RYDER & SON, Sale, Manchester. 

TIALF-GUINEA COLLECTION of Dwarf 

-LX Roses is the beBt and cheapest offered in this paper. 
Compare with other so-called cheap collections. Consists of 
8 Hybrid Perpetuals, 1 Gloire de Dijon, 4 Mosses, 2 Climbing, 
i Sweet Brier, 16 plants in all. carefully packed, and 
guaranteed to please. The best varieties only Write for 
our Catalogue —RYDER 4 8QN, Bale, Manchester. 


SIX TEA ROSES FOR POTS, free to any 

address for 6s. 6d., includes Marechai Niel, Gloire de Dijon, 
Niphetos, 4c„ ranging from 1 foob to 2J feet high. Very good 
value ; 12 for 12s., free, carefully packed, and guaranteed to 
please. Best Beason to buy, as they are now ripened off and 
travel well.— RYDER 4 SON, Sale, Manchester. 

"DOSES ON OWN ROOTS.—Having so often 

Xu been asked for these, we have secured a collection from 
one of the largest groweis in England. A list is now pre¬ 
pared, and will be sent free to all applicants. The plants 
range from 1 foot to 3 feet high. Those who have failed with 
worked plants are advised to try own-root Rosea.—RYDER 
4 SON, Sale, Manchester. 

O GREENHOUSE AZALEAS for 7a., well set 

O with buds.—These will make a Bulendid display in the 
conseivatory in a few weeks. Three Camellias for 7s. 6d., 
including double white, carefully packed in hamper and 
guaranteed to arrive safe.—RYDER 4S0N, Sale, Manchester. 

A UR1CULAS, named, show, 15s. doz. ,• strong 

XX seedling Auriculas, Is. 9d. doz. ; Pansies, finest named 
fancy, 2s. dozen ; Phlox, choice named sorts. 2a. 6d dozen ; 
Polyanthus gold-laoed, 9d. doz.—G. W. WHEELWRIGHT. 
Oidswinsford, Stourbrid ge._[7584 

*1OTH SEASON of HENRY & CO.’S celebrated 
A-Ci collection of newly-imported Dutch Bulbs fer 12s. 6d., 
carriage paid, as follows; 6 named Hyacinths. 6bedding. 
6 Grape do., 60 named Tulips, 4 vara., 50 named Crocus, 2 
vara.. 60 mixed do. { 12 each of Iris, Anemones, Ranunculus, 
double white Narcissus, single do., Ixias, winter Aconites. 6 
each of double Daffodils, Lily of the Valley, Lent Lilies, 2 
Spirtea japonica. 2 Dielytra, and 6 dozen spring bedding 
plants.—Chigweil Row, Essex. _ 

DR. SMILES’S WORKS- 

JAMES NASMYTH, ENGINEER: an AUTO¬ 
BIOGRAPHY. With Portrait etched by Raj on, and 
90 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 16s. 

“The whole range of literary biography may be searched 
in vain for a more interesting record of an active, useful, 
successful, and happy life than is presented by the delightful 
autobiography of James Nasmyth.”— Edinburgh Review. 

“ We should not know where to stop if we were to attempt 
to notice all that is instructive and interesting in this volume. 
It will be found equally interesting to students of human 
nature, to engineers, to attronomera, and even to arche¬ 
ologists. Among other merits, there are few books which 
could be put with more advantage into a young man’s hands, 
as affording an example of the qualities which conduce 
to legitimate success in work."— Quarterly Review. 

LIFE OF A SCOTCH NATURALIST. New 
Edition. Portrait and Illustrations. Post 8vo. 6s. 
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SELF-HELP: with Illustrations of Conduct 
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THE HUGUENOTS: Their Settlements, 
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Crown Svo. 7s. Gd. 

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numerous Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 12s. 

JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street, 


CHOICE 


« PLANTS. 

CASH PRICES. 


HENDERSON & SON, 

Pine-apple Nursery, Maida Vsle, London. 

Less Quantities may be had at the same rate. 

ORCHIDS. 

12 choice free flowering sorts for .. .. 21 0 

u •• extra size .. .. 30 0 

>» ii very choice selected .. 42 0 

100 in 60 sorts for.2«<J 0 

100 in 100 sorts for .4(<o 0 

12 Masdevuilias, in 12 eorts.36 0 

12 OdontogloBsums, in 12 sorts .0 

12 Oncilturns, in 12 sorts.£0 0 

12 Dendrobiuma, in 12 sorts. ” .. 30 0 

Selected from a large magnificent collection. 

PALMS. , , 

100 useful and ornamental kinds in great variety 40 0 

12 ditto ditto . ** go 

12 ditto, stronger sized plants .. .. ** '* js o 

12 ditto, for immediate effect, per doz. 24s., 3t)j., and 4t2 0 

FLOWERING & ORNAMENTAL PLANTS. 

100 Stove and hardy greenhouse plants, in 100 varieties 42 0 

ICO Hardy greenhouse plants, or stove plants, separate 

or mixed, strong plants for effective display .. xOD 0 

Jr i? oraa : “ R orts, including the newest.9 0 

folr e ® oni 5?’ Vinter-blooming varieties. Gs. or 12 0 

12 Bouvardias, 12 distinct varieties .. .. 4a. or Go 

12 Winter-flowering varieties for warm house .. .. 6 0 

>• . JL* »• cool house.. .. 9 0 

12 Sweet-scented flowers .. .. fe. and 9 0 

Jo Abutilons of beautiful colours (Balloon Flowers) 6 0 
12 Cyclamen peraicum giganteum .. . 9 g 

12 Climbers for rafters or pillars, nothing more 
beautiful to give an elegant furnished appear- 
inn ance to the house .. .. 6s.. 12s., and 38 0 

1UU Chrysanthemums, all sections, cuttings ,, .. so 

GREENHOUSE RHODODENDRONS. 

i12 sorts, to include Princess Royal, jaeminiiloia, Prio- 
.. ° eM Alexandra, and other sweet-scented varieties 18 0 
12 ditto, extra strong plants. 30 b. and 42 0 

FERNS. 

12 choice varieties . 6 0 

12 AdUntnm farleyense . * * g o 

12 Maiden-hair Feins, in various sorts .. , ** 6 0 

12 specially suited for window and hall decoration 10 6 
12 MotBes (Selaginella) in 12 varieties.4 0 

ORNAMENTAL FOLIAGED PLANTS. 

12 Dracaenas in 12 choice varietie* ,. 6 0 

12 Marantain 12 varieties, beautiful foliage ’* 6 0 

12 Alocasia in 6 varieties. . * 90 

12 Crotons in 12 varieties, very distinot .! "\ 50 

12 Graceful habited plants for table decoration, 12s. i IS 0 

12 Dieffenbachia, in sorts.. .. 10 6 

12 of either of the above grown on strong for’imme-’ 

diate effect. Sis . 30 h aaitl 43 0 

THE JEWEL COLLECTION. 12 sorts, nriniiture 
plants of elegant coloured leaves and flowers of 
most lovely objects . 6 O 

HARDY PERENNIALS, HERBACEOUS. 

100 distinct in 50 sorts, strong plants .gl 0 

100 „ 100 ,, ,, ,, ti 300 

100 selected to bloom equally throughout the year 40 0 
100 selected for covering walls and rockeries .. Ji) 0 

12 Pyrethrums, 12 sorts, choice double flowered .. 4 0 

12 Japaneee Iris, the most magnificent section, 12 sorts 9 0 

1" „ ,, mixed varieties. 6 0 

12 Aquatic or Water Plante, 12 hardy sorts .. .. 9 n 

Carnations and Picotees of the choice varieties, 4s and 6 0 
Clove Carnations in various colours .. .. 4s and G U 

Tree or Perpetual-flowering Carnations, 6s. do z, 
stron g in pots, 12s. and 18a. doz. 

Pinks, choice collection. 4s and 6 0 

100 Sprirg-tlowering garden plants, including Hepatica, 
lilies, spring and summer Snowflike. Ane¬ 
mones. Primroses, Pansies, Dog's-tooth Vio¬ 
lets, Pinks, Star of Bethlehem, 4c., 50 varieties 12 0 

WINTER AND SPRING FLOWERING . 

12 Azalea indica, the most showy flowered group of 

greenhouse plants .. .. 18s., 30*., and 43 0 

12 Camellias, splendid collection, 12 cboioest proved 
,0 . varieties, English grown .. 20s., 30a., and 42 0 

12 Azalea mollis, beautiful Urge truss of flowers, 
yellow, orange, red, and buff, early blooming 

Japanese section.18s and 30 0 

12 Roses, Tea-scented, yellow, white, orange, and rod 
,0 x, varieties, 12 sorts in pots, strong, with buds .. IS 0 
Roses, perpetual-flowering, large plants, established 

in pots, doz.18 

12 do. do. from the open ground 63. anil 9 0 
12 Strong clumps, early flowering plants t»r forcing. 

Spiraea japonica and palmata, Dielytra specta- 

bilis, Lily of the Valley, 4c. .6 0 

12 Cineraria, splendid quality .. .. 4s , 6s.. and 9 0 

Larger sized plants of many of the above may be had. 

See priced Catalogue, post free for 2d. 

Pine-apple Nursery, Maida Yale, 

_ X.Q3SIX3QISr. 

MOSS LITTER MANURE 

IB INVALUABLE TOR 

GARDENERS & FRUIT GROWERS,] 

Write at once for price to 

GERHARD HELMCKE, 

88, Blsbopsgate Street Wltbln, London, E.M 




















GARDENING-' ILLUSTRATED 


l 

t 

£ 


Vol. V. 


NOVEMBER 3, 1883. 


No. 243. 


ON SMALL GREENHOUSES. 

I have been a subscriber to your journal for a 
long time, and have read your articles on the 
cool greenhouse, &c., but I fear that amateurs 
like myself do not derive much benefit from the 
perusal of the exhaustive descriptions referred 
to. To my mind, what is really required—what 
so many like myself want—is not so much very 
long articles with the names of hundreds of 
plants which are utterly impossible of being 
provided by the amateur for his limited green- 
nouse, and even if he had the means he would 
not possess the room, the time, or knowledge to 
attend; but what is wanted are a few plain 
directions of how he may make his limited glass 
structure look tolerably cheerful, not only during 
the few bright months, but the whole year 
round—the Dames of, and directions for tending, 
a few dozens of plants adapted to his means. 
There may, no doubt, be some difficulty in 
giving such directions, but the task, I should say, 
is in no way proportionate to the bewilderment 
of an ordinary reader trying to fish out what to 
select and how to manage the few plants neces¬ 
sary to make his glasshouse pleasing and decent. 
With regard to the heating, I doubt not there 
are many of us who would be thankful for a 
few hints as to the cheapest methods of pro¬ 
cedure ; we are not all possessed of two or three 
pounds we may spend without looking at it 
twice. Is there nothing cheaper than Gilling¬ 
ham’s apparatus which will give sufficient heat 
without injuring the plants 1 The lowest price 
of the particular lamp here referred to is 35s., 
a sum not always at a poor man's hand. In 
conclusion, I trust that, as Gabdening is written 
for the general public, you will take this matter 
up for the benefit of some of your poorer though 
not less interested readers. H. B. 


[Once more the vexed question of heating is 
puzzling many who, having a small greenhouse, 
are anxiously desirous to make the most of it, 
and yet feel that they cannot rightly afford to 
spend the £2 or £3 needed to purchase and 
maintain even the simplest and cheapest appara¬ 
tus invented for the purpose. And once more, 
at the risk of repetition, the question may be 
asked—why not go upon a different plan alto¬ 
gether, and, discarding at once all thoughts of a 
heating apparatus of any kind, try what can be 
done in the way of furnishing the greenhouse 
with hardy subjects, which need no heat 1 

Let us suppose a case in which an unheated 
glass structure of very modest dimensions has 
come into the possession of a new tenant in one 
of our suburban districts. In it, a few bought 
plants have nobly done their duty during the 
summer months, and having been cared for by 
their owner, have given great pleasure; but now 
their beauty is over, or it is fast waning, and more 
than one troublesome question begins to crop up. 
In the first place, what is to be done to save the 
Pelargoniums, Heliotropes, Petunias, and other 
plants—the present tenants of the greenhouse— 
from frost during the coming winter, so that they 
may be useful another year. Already they begin 
to look shabby, and nipped by the increasingly 
cold nights, and there is no otherplace in which 
to bestow them. To this enquiry there is but 
one sorrowful answer to be given. The simple 
shelter of glass is not enough to protect half- 
hardy plants such as these from the severity of 
our ordinary English winters, and it only leads 
to disappointment if the attempt be made. 

Next arises thequestion, Is there, then, no way 
by which we may have flowers during the 
winter without heating the greenhouse ? And to 
this I would unhesitatingly reply, Yes, there is 
a way, for it has been done, and can be done by 
anyone who chooses to give time and thought to 
the subject, and who also works with a will to 
effect what he wishes. But there is no royal 
•nad to gardening knowledge any more than 
here is to any other science, and a knowlegde 
if the best hardy plants for the purpose is the 
<ery first element of success in this particular 
be. A silver key opens most doors, as we 
bow, but in this case we are supposing the keys 
of the bouse are all ordinary ones; but though 


esperience is generally bought at the price (too 
often) of failure, we may^yqt profit to some 


,y yet profit to some 

C.ck gle 


extent by that of others until we have learnt to are everlasting plants (unless grievously mis- 
feel our own way. Hence the following sug- managed), and most kinds increase readily by 
gestions from one who has made many mistakes division of the roots. By this means it is easy 
and floundered through many gardening difficul- to get duplicate plants, which can always be 
ties. exchanged with friends and neighbours for 

And here let it be said that, where expense is an others of which we may be in need, 
object, it is much the wisest plan to let the green- It is not yet too late to get bulbs for winter 
house furnish itself by degrees, no matter if it and spring flowering, though not a day should 
does look bare in the first instance. One good now be lost in potting them. Hyacinths, quite 
plant carefully tended is worth a houseful badly good enough for ordinary decorative purposes, 
grown and ill-managed, and experience will may be bought at from 3s. 6d. to 4s. a dozen, 
come slowly but surely. Let us take care For a small greenhouse it is far better not to get 
thoroughly to understand the capabilities of our what are known as Homan Hyacinths j they are 
circumstances, and never to buy or to accept as not sufficiently ornamental, except in quantity, 
a gift a plant which is not likely to thrive under to be worth growing where every flowering plant 
the conditions we can afford to give it, unless, is of special importance. It is better also to 
indeed, it be by way of experiment. Notices of choose single rather than double sorts, 
plants suited to different modes of culture are Hyacinths grown in an unheated house will 
constantly published. It is well to take every not be so early as those which are forced, but 
opportunity of finding out all about such as may they will be much more sturdy and their blooms 
seem suitable before buying them, otherwise will be more lasting. They will also flower 
money may be wasted which might be well laid tolerably well a second year if the foliage be care- 
out. Many plants are mentioned in the follow- fully encouraged to perfect itself after the faded 
ing notes ; but it is not supposed that all of them spikes are cut. As an investment of money, 
will be suitable for every small greenhouse, or however, it is much better to buy Narcissi than 
within the means of purchase of every amateur Hyacinths, as they will bloom year after year 
who possesses one. They are merely setdownhere and increase under good cultivation. Very good 
as being all admirably adapted for culture in an named kinds of Polyanthus Narcissus, such as 
unheated greenhouse, but the reader must make Bathurst, Grand Monarque, Soleil d'Or, and the 
his own choice according to his means and re- paper-white are to be procured at from 3s. to 4s. 
quirements. a dozen. Some of the Trumpet Narcissi, or what 

It is impossible exactly to meet the wants of are popularly known as Daffodils, are much 
any individual case, but all persons interested cheaper than the above in some catalogues, and 
in the subject will be likely to agree that foliage are exceedingly handsome. As Narcissus bulbs 
plants should be the first consideration in the are generally large, a single root will do best in 
winter furnishing of a planthouse. There is a 6-inch pot, three of moderate size will fill a 
nothing so pleasant to the eye, weary of brown 6-inch pot, or a clump of six may be placed in 
earth and bare boughs, as fresh green leafage, an 8-inch pot with excellent effect. A few 
Therefore, it would be well to get together by single Tulips of the early Van Thol varieties are 
degrees a few good evergreen shrubs, such as gay and useful, and may be bought at Is. the 
large and small-leaved Myrtles and hardy Ferns, dozen, but they do not often bloom a second 
for this purpose. Laurestinus and some of the year. In looking through the bulb catalogues, it 
hardy Rhododendrons are valuable evergreen is usual to see Triteleias named amongst those 
winter-flowering shrubs, small plants of which, offered in the guinea or half guinea collections, 
specially prepared forpotculture and well setwith These are perfectly hardy, with a delicate porce- 
buds, are sold at some nurseries for about 2s. fid. Iain-blue stripe in each petal of their charming 
each. In the same way, Herberts Darwini makes white flowers. As they increase freely from year 
a charming pot plant. Plants such as these are to year, they are well-worth growing. It may be 
a great stand-by, as they last long in bloom, and well to say that the stalks and leaves, when 
with proper summer treatment should be equally bruised or broken, emit a strong odour of garlic, 
good for several seasons. A hardy Fan-Palm but this is not otherwise perceptible. The large- 
(Chamserops excelsa) or a Yucca or two give a flowered Crocuses, though most beautiful, are 
distinct character to the arrangement of a green- not very well suited to greenhouse culture, as 
house, but where these are not obtainable, it is they last in beauty but a very few days. Men- 
quite possible to make good use of Ivy. We are apt tion, however, must be made of C. Imperati, a 
to overlook the merits of Ivy, because it is so lovely species which blooms naturally at Christ- 
common, but the small-leaved and variegated mas, and opens its flowers day after day when- 
sorts (some of which, by the way, are rather ever there is a gleam of sunshine, 
tender and like the shelter of glass) are espe- The gardener is tempted to linger long over his 

cially valuable for baskets and brackets, and bulb-list at this season, because bulbs are his 
other purposes which may suggest themselves greatest resource in the way of winter flowers in 
to the owner of a greenhouse. Nearly all the the unheated greenhouse. But we must pass on 
kinds grow freely from cuttings. A country to other early-flowering plants which are suitable 
walk will sometimes take us into spots where to our purpose. The Christmas Rose (Hellebores 
delicate Ivy-sprays carpet the ground and run niger) suggests itself by its very name, and 
up every tree trunk, so that we can help our- prepared clumps may be readily obtained for pot 
selves. Our country friends would willingly culture. The best variety is that named H. n. 
send a hamper of Ferns and Ivy, Periwinkle and maximus, and it is perfectly hardy. It dislikes 
Primrose roots from some neighbouring wood or removal and will live in a large pot for many 
lane, where scarcely a passer-by turns his head years, with a good top-dressing every spring to 
to admire their beauty. It is true that newly- assist and strengthen the leaves. Common 
potted plants do not always present a very Primroses taken up now or a little later on from 
cheerful appearance until they are fairly their native woods, potted and given the shelter 
established, but if we cannot buy them all ready of glass In severe weather, and as much air as 
for our purpose, the nextbestthingisto grow them possible when it is mild and fair, make beautiful 
for ourselves. In fact, it is actually much better plants in January, when there is little else to 
and far more interesting to raise our own plants delight the eye. It is an excellent plan to buy in 
from cuttings or from seed than to buy them, the spring a small packet of Primrose seed, such 
because in so doing we not only gain experience as Dean’s hybrids, and to raise plants for the 
ourselves, but our plants are, so to speak, ednea- ensuing season. It will yield flowers of all shades 
ted to suit the conditions under which we are from pure white to deepest crimson. The second 
able to cultivate them, for it is often the case year, if well cared for, the plants will be much 
that a new purchase droops from the time of its stronger and will flower abundantly. There are 
removal from the nursery to fresh quarters in a many fine species of Primrose which can be as 
private garden, probably because it dislikes the easily raised from seed as the common sort, most 
change of treatment. of which are quite hardy and well suited to a 

Ferns are, of all foliaged plants, the best for cold greenhouse. One of the most beautiful is the 
using as a background for bright flowers. Hardy rose-coloured Primrose (P. rosea), a Himalayan 
species in a small state are to be obtained very species, now becoming well known. Chinese 
cheaply, and soon grow into good-sized plants. Primulas will not succeed in a low temperature. 
It is always worth while to buy the best species and are therefore useless for our purpose. One 
of hardy Ferns from a reliable nursery, as they of the most desirable of spring-flowering plants 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 







382 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Nov. 3, 1883. 


is the early blue Forget-me-not (Myoaotls dissiti- 
flora). Good seedlings, which are better than 
old plants, potted now and brought on under 
shelter of glass, ought to come into bloom, If the 
weather be at all geuial, in February, and last a 
long time in perfection. Were choice to be 
restricted to one hardy flowering plant to mix 
with Ferns and foliage, nothing could perhaps 
be better than this Forget-me-not, but the right 
kind must be obtained, otherwise disappointment 
will be sure to follow. A few roots of Solomon's 
Seal are also invaluable, the wax-like blossoms 
drooping from its arched stems being singu¬ 
larly effective and elegant. A potful or two of 
lily of the Valley, or Czar Violet, for the sake 
especially of their fragrance, might be added. 

No mention has been made of Cyclamens, 
because the Persian species sold at this season, 
though admirable as window plants in a warm 
room, are not suitable for a cold greenhouse. 
There are hardy species, such as C. europieum, 
C. Coum, and others, which bloom in autumn and 
spring, and these may be grown with great 
success, their beautiful marbled leaves beingquite 
as ornamental through the winter as their flowers. 
Hepaticas, and especially the large blue-flowered 
U. angulosa, make good early tufts of colour, 
when colour is most needed in the greenhouse. 
Many kinds of Anemone may also be successfully 
cultivated, but these last are especially impatient 
of a close atmosphere, so that care must be taken 
to give them all possible ventilation, standing 
the pots outside on every suitable opportunity 
until they are in flower. Even then it is a good 
plan to put them outside every night, to prevent 
them becoming drawn up by the heat of early 
spring days. In fact, all the above-mentioned 
hardy plants like plenty of air when the weather 
is at all mild; they must also be judiciously 
supplied with water, as they will all be in full 
growth. In frosty weather it is safer to with- 
hol 1 It altogether, but if at any time the plants 
should be frozen, they should be sprinkled in the 
morning with cold water and carefully shaded 
from the sun, otherwise they will be much injured, 
sunshine upon frost being most hurtfnl even to 
the hardiest of plants. In mild, dull weather, it 
Is better to give no more water than is absolutely 
needful, but as the days lengthen more will be 
required especially on the sunny, drying dayB 
which often come in early spring. 

In making the above selection of plants the 
cost has been specially kept in view. It Beema 
almost needless to say that no luxury can be 
e ojoyed without some expense, and flowers are a 
luxury; but by going the right way to work 
gardening may be made the cheapest as well as 
one of the most pleasant of luxuries. It is hoped 
t rat the above hints may be of some use to the 
amateur, perplexed with the consideration of how 
he may best furnish his little glasshouse for the 
winter at the least possible cost. Many plants, 
though highly desirable, have been omitted, 
because it is better not to bewilder the unlearned 
gardener with a multitude of names, which 
represent but little to his understanding; but 
oare has been taken to name none that will fail, 
under ordinary care and cultivation, to give 
satisfaction._K. L. D.] 

OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


THE UNION JACK DAHLIA. 

This is a beautifully striped Dahlia, selected 
from a series of handsome flowers sent to us a 
few weeks ago by Mr. Ware. Its form is good, 
and its petals Btriped white and red. It is a 
very showy plant, and well worth adding to a 
collection. 


Ouphea platyoentra.—This little plant 
(figured in vol. 2 of Gardening) does not, I think, 
receive the attention it deserves, for though its 
elongated tubular flowers are somewhat small, 
they never fail to attract notice on account of 
their vivid scarlet colouring, as well as by their 
singularity of form. Having a spreading, semi- 
procumbent habit, it is well adapted for flower 
beds, and as it can a be pegged or pinched to any 
desirable shape, is usetul as an edging plant; or 
when worked in towards the front of ribbon- 
borders, it presents a striking contrast to the 
plants usually employed in such borders. We 
have grown it two seasons, and though not a 
showy plant, it has at least the charm of variety. 
Bees seem excessively fond of it, and it is amus¬ 
ing to watch some wandering bumble bee alight¬ 
ing on the flower fiar~bhe first time, In his clumsy 


Digitized by LaOO 


.me, Id his 

gfe 



and fruitless efforts to reach the nectar through 
the long slender tubes, while the hive bee pro¬ 
ceeds to business at once by extracting the honey 
through a small aperture near the base of the 
flower. It strikes readily from cuttings in the 
spring, and the young plants commence blooming 
almost as soon as they have taken root, and con¬ 
tinue blooming until cut down by froBt, the 
heaviest rain storms only making them look 
brighter than before.— J. Martin. 


WINTER GARDENING. 

As gardens generally will now have become bereft 
of their summer occupants, a brief list of some of 
the most suitable subjects for ornamenting them 
in winter may not be unacceptable to those who 
have not yet given the many varieties of dwarf 
shrubs suitable for bedding or vase decoration a 
fair trial. By such means beds can be filled at 
once even more effectively than with ordinary 
spring flowering plants, or both may be used 


Dahlia. 

XT Union "lack. 
Ocl*4>lB83 


together with or without the aid of bulbs. Thus 
while a cheerful effect can be produced during 
the winter months, a really brilliant display may 
be secured in spring. 

The Shrubs 
should be planted thinly, so as to show every 
plant off to the best advantage, the whole being 
set in a groundwork of dwarf, carpeting plants, 
through which bulbs, if used, will spring up and 
look far better than in beds by themselves. The 
shrubs will also afford some protection in winter, 
and in spring when dwarf-spreading plants cover 
the ground, and the bulbs open their flowers, a 
really charming mixture will be the result. A 
bed, for example, thinly planted with gold or 
silver variegated Euonymus wonld look well 
carpeted with blue Myosotis and studded with 
crimson Tulips, or say another filled with the 
Fern-like Uetinosporas on a groundwork of 
Bilene, edged with variegated Alyssum and purple 
Crocus, with Narcissi in the centre. For such 
beds abundant material exists, suitable like for 
temporary purposes or for permanent groups, as 
nearly all the shrubs named are easily kept 
dwarf by pruning. 


very pretty; in fact, some shrubs are in their 
greatest beauty as regards foliage in winter, and 
by selecting the most attractive as well as those 
that produce a crop of berries, the winter outdoor 
garden may be rendered in some respects almost 
as interesting as that of summer. In the case of 

Balcony and Window Boxes, 
too, that are always under the eye, little shrubs 
like those alluded to are just the things to give a 
warm, furnished look to a building, be it large 
or small. By strict attention to wateiing they 
may be kept many years in pots of very small 
size, and in summer they may be plunged up to 
the rims of the pots out-of-doors, thereby re¬ 
ducing the necessity for such frequent watering 
as would otherwise be needful. 

The following I have proved to be eminently 
useful winter plants in many ways, viz, Andro¬ 
meda floribunda, which has bright green foliage 
and white, Lily-of-the-Valley-like flowers that 
open very early in spring, or even in winter if 
mild; Aucuba japonica, which 
is very pretty when covered with 
berries; Box, both plain and 
variegated; Cotoneaster micro- 
phylla, a hardy trailing plant, 
which produces abundance of 
purplish red berries; Cupressus 
Lawsoniana and its varieties, all 
of which are very effective when 
young; Cryptomeria elegans, one 
of the handsomest of Conifers, 
and Fern-like in foliage, the 
latter assuming a deep bronze 
colour in the depth of winter. 
Heaths belonging to the dwsrf 
hardy section are also very prelt.y 
and some of them flower very 
early. Euonymus japonicut, 
plain and variegated, rank 
amongst the most beautiful of 
winter shrubs, and it kept in pots 
the variegation becomes bright 
and effective, and the wood suffici¬ 
ently matured to withstand frost 
Ivies, both gold and Biiver and 
the plain-leaved tree Ivies, are 
all very hardy, and when grown 
in pots may be utilised in any 
way needful for several years. 
J nnipers, suoh as virginica, are 
exceedingly pretty plants when 
young; and Laurustinuses, if 
kept dwarf, make nice little 
flowering shrubs that are always 
welcome. The Osmanthus, in ad¬ 
dition to beautiful foliage, has 
the excellent propensity of flower¬ 
ing in winter. Fernettya mu- 
cronata is a beautiful berried 
plant, and Portugal and com¬ 
mon Laurel, and also the Cau¬ 
casian variet v, have bright shining 
foliage that is very cheerful daring the dull 
months. 

Retinosporas are, perhaps, the most beautiful 
of all the coniferous tribe for central or dot 
plants in hardy carpet beds, especially B. 
ericoides, which has Heath-like foliage; R. obtuse 
and its dwarf golden variety are exceedingly 
light and feathery in appearance; and R. plumose 
and R.squarrosa are really indispensable for tini- 
class hardy foliage beds. Thujopsis dolobrata 
and its variegated variety are also exceedingly 
handsome coniferous plants, with foliage very 
like that of some large Lycopodiums. Yews, 
both common and Irish, come in well by way of 
contrast with lighter shades of green, and Ibeir 
rigid aspect sets off the feathery Retinosporas 
and similar plants to good advantage. Rhodo¬ 
dendrons make good green beds, and bear 
removal at any time with impunity, and Skimmia 
japonica is one of the best berry-bearing plants 
in cultivation for winter beds. Yuccas, too, 
must not be omitted from tbe most select list, 
the stiff Y. gloriosa or the elegantly arched Y. 
recurva being alike useful in beds or vases. 
Many other plants might also be enumerated, 
but these will form a good selection. G. S. G. 


Vases or Rustic Baskets 
look particularly well filled with hardy shrubs, 
such as Box, Aucubas, or tbe bronze-leaved 
Berberis Aquifolium, and edged with Ivies or 
Vintas, plain-leaved or variegated. The winter 
tints of some of the plants usaally employed for 
such purpcsis, such as Cryptomeria elegans are 


WEATHER-PROOF FLOWERS. 
Foremost among such plants as bear without 
injury the heavy rains incidental to our 
autumnal climate are tbe Marigolds. Until 
quite late in October, and even early in Novem¬ 
ber, they continue to flower with brightness and 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


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URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



394 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Nov. 3, 1883. 


Green, standing in height close upon 11 feet, | 
and has over twenty blooms, the centre one 
measuring 15 inches in diameter. Many of the 
leaves are 17 and 18 inches across.—W. H. 
13AYLI8. 

Schizostylls oocoinea— This brilliant 
autumn flower looks extremely well mixed with 
the white autumn Anemone japonica, the spike 
being like a miniature Gladiolus, and extremely 
useful for cutting; and when we get a spell of 
fine autumnal weather these two plants form a 
most striking effect. In the southern counties 
this plant proves quite hardy, but in colder parts 
of the kingdom it needs a little protection, but 
is well worthy of culture as a pot plant when 
it does not succeed in the open air.—J. Groom, 
Gosport. 

10514.— Spirsea japonica.— Lift the roots 
carefully early in November and put them in 
pots just large enough to contain them. Give 
them a moderate watering, and place them in a 
cold frame until about the middle of December, 
when some maybe put into a warm house; or they 
may remain in a cool greenhouse or frame, and 
will move along gently with the season, flower¬ 
ing very much finer than in the open. When 
they come into full growth some weak liquid 
manure should be given two or three times a 
week.—J. C. B. 

10501. — Planting Hyacinths and 

Tulips.—Where these can be left in the soil we 
certainly think it best to do so. Hyacinths espe¬ 
cially seem to come up stronger than when 
lifted. If your soil is not heavy, they may be 
planted ten inches deep, which will allow for 
the annual digging, which should, however, be 
done with a fork, as then there is no danger of 
slicing the bulbs. In cold, heavy lands we 
should not care to see them deeper than from 
6 to 8 inches. Some years ago we planted a few 
Hyacinths which had been grown in pots nearly 
a foot deep, and they have improved every year, 
bedding and other plants having been planted 
on them when done blooming, and we think 
that in very light soils they would flower stronger 
if quite a foot under the surface. Our soil is a 
light loam.—J. C. B. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Gar dm Diary—November 5 
to November 10. 

Sowing Sangster’B No. 1, Early Emperor, Little Gem, 
and Laxton’s Alpha Peas. Potting Lily of the Valley, 
and fshifting herbaceous Calceolarias into 6-inch pots. 
Planting some Cherry and Rose trees. Putting in Aspara¬ 
gus to force, keeping it at from 68** to 60° night tempera¬ 
ture. Making hotbed for Ehubarb, Lily of tho Valley, 
and Hyacinths in a dark shed. Putting glass over Let¬ 
tuces for the winter. Taking up Salvia patens and get¬ 
ting all Dahlias into a cool, dry cellar. 

Potting Japan Lilies in peat and sand, and putting 
them into cold pits. Planting Box edgings. Taking up 
and potting Hollyhocks—any sorts that have not Btruck 
freely. Arranging Heliotropes, Pelargoniums, and 
Primulas, and keeping the temperature for them at 60° to 
53o at night, to induce them to flower. Nipping bloom¬ 
ing shoots off Calceolaria cuttings. Emptying rubbish 
yard, and carting its contents to garden to dig in. Sow¬ 
ing early Long-pod Beans. Planting various kinds of 
Pears, Plums, and Apples. Putting all Cauliflowers not 
fit to cut in cold lean-to house. Putting in plants for 
forcing, consisting of Roman and other Hyacinths, Nar¬ 
cissi, Van Thol Tulips, Persian and other Lilacs, Briers, 
Azaleas. Roses, Rhododendrons, Rhodoras, Vermilion 
Brilliant Tulip, Deutzia, and Pinks Tying up Lettuces 
and Endive in frames to blanch. Protecting Globe Arti- 
hokes. Getting Cauliflowers coming in too fast hung up 
in cellar. Getting leaves into forcing pit for bulbs, <fcc. 
Planting a border of Lily of the Valley. Getting Peach 
trees in pots into their places ; top-dressing them with 
two parts loam and one part manure, ramming the soil 
down hard. Tying espalier Pear trees. Painting Vines 
and loosely tying them up ready for starting. Fumigat¬ 
ing all Orchid houses for thrips and fly. Putting litter 
over Lily of the Valley in pots. Top-dressing pot Vines 
with bone-dust, loam, and manure. Beginning to manure 
Asparagus beds. Getting broken glass repaired where 
necessary. Repairing all verges. Clearing Ivy from 
Yew trees where it reaches the branches. Potting Roses, 
Solomon s Seal, and White Pinks. Puttiag Seakale In 
bin in Mushroom shed to blanch. Plunging some Lilies 
and Hyacinths in bottom-heat. Beginning to nail east 
and west wall trees. Placing protectors over Lettuces, 
Endive, Violets, Stocks, young Cauliflowers, &c. Cover¬ 
ing up a little Seakale so as to be able to get at It in 
frosty weather ; also Jerusalem Artichokes, so as to 
enable them to bo got up during frost. Washing Gar¬ 
denias. Giving Cucumbers a top-dressing of turfy loam 
and sand. Soiling over the Asparagus beds. Ridging-up 
vacant ground. Pruning and tying Raspberry canes. 

Glasshouses. 

One of the most disagreeable circumstances 
connected with gardening is that it is necessary 
to keep up a war with insects that never comes to 
an end. Plants in the open lir,^ with few 
exceptions, are lljttle j^ffy te ’ wlt l minimal para¬ 


sites that hold on to them beyond a limited time 
during the year; but with those grown under 
glass the conditions are wholly favourable to 
insects, which go on increasing more or less, 
according to the active or more dormant time of 
the year, and unless there is unremitted attention 
given to their destruction, the plants never can 
thrive or appear as they ought to do. The course 
sometimes followed of allowing plants to get 
badly infested, and then to subject them to extra 
cleansing, is the worst possible method, for not 
only is the work thereby much increased, but 
the plants themselves, beyond the harm done to 
them by the insects, have their leaves more or 
less injured by whatever means are employed in 
the cleansing process. Gardeners who keep the 
best ahead in the destruction of insects not only 
reduce the amount of labour to a minimum, but 
invariably reap more satisfactory results by the 
cleaner and better condition of their plants. 
The best season to attack the enemy is during 
the autumn and winter, when irisects increase 
much more slowly, and the press of other 
matters gives more leisure for the work. 

CAMELLIAS, 

more than most plants, suffer through the 
presence of white scale, the most difficult of all 
insects to get rid of, for the reason that many of 
the plants subject to it will not bear the appli¬ 
cation of any insecticide sufficiently strong to 
destroy the pest without seriously injuring the 
foliage. When the plants are much infested, it 
congregates about the extremities of the shoots 
and on the flower-buds; where the growth is 
vigorous, and the bads are set in clusters, it is 
well to thin them out sufliciently, so as to be 
better able to get at the scale. This thinning 
out is also essential to obtain full-sized flowers, 
for although the reduction of the buds is not 
necessary to be carried so far now that the 
blooms of these plants are generally gathered 
without any of the wood in the way that was long 
looked upon as essential, and consequently 
through the non-mutilation of the shoots they 
are enabled to develop more flowers, still it iB 
bad practice to allow too many. Some of the 
best of the market growers, who naturally are 
anxious to let as many remain as the plants can 
fully support, thin out the buds to two or, at 
most, three to a shoot. I have found nothing 
better to clean these plants with than an 
ordinary tooth-brush for removing the scale, 
finishing by sponging with ordinary soap 
and water ; the strong applications of soft soap 
not unfrequently used in the cleaning of many 
plants often does more harm than good, and 
in the case of Camellias causes numbers of the 
buds to drop, although this often occurs so long 
after the dressing as not to be attributed to the 
effects of the soap. If the plants are badly 
affected it will be well to go over them twice. 
With the damp weather we have recently had, 
necessitating a considerable use of fire heat in 
most conservatories to expel the vapour, it will 
be requisite to see well that the plants are 
sufficiently moist at the roots; this not alone 
applies to those that are grown in tubs or boxes, 
but also where planted out, the soil often being 
too dry below when the surface looks moist 
enough. 

Oranges and Citrons. 

These are troublesome plants to deal with in 
the matter of scale, and now when transferred 
to their winter quarters should be thoroughly 
overhauled, so as to remove the pest, which in 
their case often establishes itself where there is 
the least inequality in the barb, as well as on the 
leaves, the young wood, and about the stalks of 
the fruit. These plants should never be allowed 
to get badly affected with scale, as it seldom 
fails to give a yellow sickly hue to the leaves, in 
addition to causing their premature falling off, 
and so imparting a half-clothed appearance, 
which much reduces their beauty. Where Oranges 
are grown in numbers with a view to their fruit 
being used, they should have much more warmth 
than when only required for ordinary decoration, 
otherwise the fruit can neither be plentiful nor 
high flavoured. Bottom-heat is sometimes ad¬ 
vised where the crop is required for use in this 
way, but it is not absolutely necessary. A genial 
warmth of about 65° in the night through the 
winter, with an atmosphere neither too dry nor 
too moist, will answer for them. By some the 
llowerB are as much esteemed for their scent as 
Violets, and where this is the case much may he 
done in lengthening the supply by introducing 


a plant or so at a time to a little more heat, as 
there is no particular season in which they can¬ 
not be had in bloom. Though smaller in the 
flowers, the small Otaheite variety is useful for 
blooming. There is one advantage with this sort; 
the plants not being large, a succession may be 
brought on to flower without the over-abundance 
at a time that often occurs where the large 
kinds are forced. 

Lily of the Valley. 

Where this is wanted in bloom by Christmas 
there is no difficulty in having it, if strong, full- 
sized crowns are obtainable that have been 
cultivated under conditions such as to bring 
their growth to maturity early in the season. 
The German roots that are now sent to this 
country have been in this way specially prepared 
for forcing, so that when they arrive by the 
middle of October the crowns have already 
pushed half an inch or so. If these are at once 
potted, and allowed a week or two before putting 
them in strong bottom heat, there is little doubt 
about their moving freely, and coming into 
flower during the latter part of December. 

l’OINSETTIAS AND EUPHORBIAS. 

Poinsettias intended to come in early should 
now be subjected to a brisk stove heat, keeping 
their beads if possible all but touching the roof, 
by which means additional brilliancy of colonr 
and a hardier condition such as to enable their 
bearing a cooler temperature when fully ex¬ 
panded will be secured, very different to that 
which will result from their being brought into 
bloom with their heads several feet from the 
glass. Regarding the Euphorbia, the time it can 
be had in flower will depend upon how the 
plants have been treated. Cut-back examples, 
such as bloomed last season, that were started 
into growth sufficiently early in spring and 
pushed on in a warm house with the shoots not 
stopped more than once, will flower much earlier 
and produce double the quantity of bloom that 
such as are weaker and have made their growth 
later will. There is no plant that I have ever 
used for forcing that has the condition of its 
flowers so much dependent upon its being brought 
on to bloom with the tops of the shoots all bat 
touching the glass. When so treated it will 
stand in a cut state for a week; whereas the 
bloom from weak plants that opens in a dart 
house or under less influence of light is of so 
little use for cutting, that both the leaves and 
flowers flag almost as soon as they are severed 
from the plants. Neither of the above plants 
will do well with the soil keeping so wet as many 
things; the comparatively few and delicate fibres 
which the Euphorbia especially makes cannot at 
any season bear the soil being wet unless in very 
small, well-drained pots, and under exceptionally 
high temperature. Anyone possessing a large 
plant of the old Euphorbia splendens trained on a 
back wall, round a pillar, or in any situation 
where it will receive a moderately brisk heat 
through the winter, will have a continual suc¬ 
cession of brilliant flowers. This plant likewise 
is impatient of much moisture in the soil unless 
the roots are confined within a restricted space. 
Even when allowed plenty of head-room in the 
way above indicated, it is better kept in a com¬ 
paratively small pot than turned out in a 
border. 

Euonymuses. 

Although these are quite hardy in most parts 
of the country, and the majority of them ulti¬ 
mately grow to a large size, they are among the 
most useful plants for pot culture that can be 
grown, especially the variegated kinds; the ease 
with which they can be propagated and grown 
admits of their being used in quantity for de¬ 
corative purposes in halls, porches, verandahs, 
and window boxes for the winter, in all of which 
positions their bright handsome foliage almost 
supplies the place of flowers. Cuttings taken off 
now made of the young shoots, and inserted 
thickly in pots plunged in ashes and kept in cold 
frames through the winter, just protected from 
frost, will root in the spring with or without 
artificial warmth, but if assisted with a slight 
hotbed, then it will much help the season's 
growth. When well rooted they should be 
planted out in rows in well prepared, free soil in 
a light situation, in which, by the end of the 
second summer, they wil 1 have made good bushy 
plants ready for potting off. Any of the erect- 
growing; variegated forms are suitable for the 
uses here recommended. 


* 

|«! 





Nov. 3, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


395 


Shrubs fob Forcing. 

Thera, which may now be taken np, shonld in¬ 
clude Rhododendrons, selecting for the purpose 
the early-blooming kinds. Quite equal to these 
Rhododendrons are the Japanese varieties of 
Azalea mollis, which are great improvements in 
size and substance on the Ghent sorts ; they arc 
better adapted for using as pot plants in this 
way than for blooming out-of-doors, as, except 
in the most favoured localities, they have a dis¬ 
position to flower before danger from spring 
frosts is over. The hardy Azalea (A. amtena) 
and the Ghent varieties are excellent forcers. 
Ealmialatifolia,Laurustinus, the double-flowered 
Prunus, Deutzia gracilis, Lilacs, and the Guelder 
Rose all answer well for this purpose, and are 
very serviceable in helping the supply of ordinary 
greenhouse plants. They are especially to be 
recommended where the means at command in 
the shape of houses and pits solely devoted to 
plant growing is insufficient to keep up the re¬ 
quisite supply, as in many places during the 
winter season there are mid-season and late 
Vineries and Peach houses where such plants can 
be placed out of the reach of frost and snow, 
and where they will be slightly encouraged to 
come on into bloom, and be in a better condition 
for introducing to the forcing house than if left 
out in the open air. 


Flower Garden. 

Flower beds should now be cleared of all 
plants that will not withstand frost. Dahlias, 
Begonias, and other tuberous rooted plants 
should be placed in safe quarters—a cool shed— 
and the roots laid in dry vegetable soil, in sand, 
or Cocoa fibre, there to remain till February. 
The beds should then be replanted for the winter, 
either with bulbs and spring-flowering plants 
and annuals, or else with evergreen shrubs. 
Violas and Pansies may remain, for witli mild 
weather they will flower more or less the winter 
through, so that all that is needed to furniBh 
these kinds of beds for the winter are a few 
small shrubs, such as Cupressus, Retinosporas, or 
Aucubas; they should be planted at regular 
intervals over the beds, the Violas serving as a 
groundwork, into which may advantageously be 
be dibbled a few Tulips or Hyacinths for early 
spring flowering. Other beds may be treated 
in like manner, as, for instance, those that have 
been carpeted with hardy plants of the Sedum 
type. Do not remove this, but plant in it Stocks, 
Wallflowers, Forget-me-nots, ,v.c,, as well as suit¬ 
able shrubs in the larger and more conspicuous 
positions. By this means the work of re¬ 
furnishing will not only be less, but the beds 
will look well at once. I need hardly add that 
the edgings of beds ought to be neatly trimmed, 
and bare spots of earth be mulched with fine 
vegetable mould or fibre. This done, an occa¬ 
sional sweep up and rolling of turf will be all 
the attention the parterre will need for months 
to come. 

Mixed Flower Borders. 


now need careful treatment to keep them in 
good health. All kinds should be watered but 
sparingly—Pelargoniums more particularly so, 
or the late-struck plants that have as yet made 
little root will quickly rot off. Verbenas, Petu¬ 
nias, Ageratums, and others of similar hardiness 
should be kept as cool as possible ; cold pits 
that can be well covered in the event of frost 
are the best structures for these. Prepare 
protection in the way of litter or bracken for 
protecting plants that are being wintered in 
ordinary cold frames. Of course this need be 
applied only in exceptionally severe weather, as 
the covering with ordinary mats will suffice at 
other times. 

Vines. 

Late-planted young Vines that have grown 
vigorously, as they generally do, will still require 
artificial warmth in combination with free ven¬ 
tilation, in order to ensure thorough ripeness of 
wood. Even in the best of seasons it is some¬ 
times difficult to get such Vines to ripen, and as 
the present one has been all but sunless, it will 
at once be seen how necessary a continuation of 
artificial warmth is. Such Vines may now have 
the growth that was allowed to run, to induce 
greater root-action, cut off; but in its removal 
carefully guard against injury to the foliage on 
the main stem, that being an important factor 
in the plumping up of the fruit-buds. Late 
Grapes, particularly Lady Downes, will still be 
the better for having the temperature kept up to 
about 65°, and the surplus growth on these 
should also now be removed, as light and air are 
essential as regards the good preservation of the 
fruit so long as it remains on the Vines. Grapes 
that have been ripe for some time, and which 
are beeping but indifferently on the Vines, 
through the surroundings being damp, ought to 
be cut with pieces of the wood and placed in 
bottles in a dry room. In the case of Grapes 
that are to be ripe in April, or early in May, the 
Vines will at once require to be started. “ Slow 
and sure ” should be the motto; so for the pre¬ 
sent be content [with keeping the house closed 
without applying fire-heat. Prior to starting 
see that the inside borders are well moistened 
through with water at a temperature of 80° or 
90°, and outside borders should have a thick 
covering of litter or bracken put on them to 
exclude frost, and shutters or tarpaulin to throw 
off wet. If, as is in many instances the case, the 
earliest Grapes are had from pot Vines, these 
too should be now started, and though bottom- 
heat is not essential, a slight warmth such as 
that produced by 2 feet or 3 feet in thickness of 
Oak leaves, will assist the earlier starting of the 
Vines; and even if allowed to root into the 
leaves, as they will do as the heat declines, such 
rooting is beneficial. 

Vegetables. 

Globe Artichokes for some years had a rather 
rough time of it, but last season/ being mild, 
they sprang up with their usual strength in the 
spring, and now present a very respectable 
appearance. Give them a good mulch with cow 
manure, and afterwards protect them with dead 
bracken. February is the best time to make new 
plantations. Slipping off the offshoots from the 
parent plantis a much better system than growing 
them from seed. Digging, trenching, or manuring, 
as the case may be, all vacant quarters or borders 
after the crops are secured will be the order of 
the day. The time is fast approaching when Sea- 
kale, Asparagus, and Rhubarb will want looking 
to. Rhubarb, in fact, may be taken up now to 
force; it is quite ripe enough for that purpose. 
Now is a capital time to plant Cauliflower plants 
under hand-lights, planting five under each light 
in a warm comer on a south border. In the case 
of Cauliflowers to plant out in March, I find by 
far the best plan is to plant them in small 3-inch 
pots. Keep them in cold frames, and expose 
them fully on all occasions except when there 
are heavy rains or sharp frosts. They get nice, 
stiff, and sturdy plants by March, and if turned 
carefully out of the pots, and planted out 
at once, they never feel the effects of the 
shift. 

Cucumbers. 

If plants in manure pits and frames are still 
giving a supply equal to the demaud, keep Sep¬ 
tember-sown plants divested of all male and 
female blossoms, and train the young growths 
regularly over the wires. Add more lumps of 
turfy loam to the roots as they appear on the 


There is at present an inevitable look of untidi¬ 
ness about these, wind and wet having done 
their worst. Chrysanthemums need tying up, 
and some of the clumps may be worth protecting 
from frost, which is easily done by placing a few 
sticks round the plants and lightly wrapping 
round them pieces of tiffany or matting. Other 
plants, such as Antirrhinums, Michaelmas 
Daisies, and Anemones, that have done flowering 
shonld be relieved of useless spray and seed-pods, 
and annuals be encouraged to make sturdy 
growth by being well thinned out, and the entire 
surface of the border be freed of weeds and be 
lightly pointed over, but previous to which all 
vacant spots shonld be filled up with any spare 
biennials or bulbs there may be left from the 
general planting. 

General Work. 

The due preservation of neatness must have 
first place under this heading, and next comes 
the pressing forward with alterations and Im¬ 
provements whilst the weather continues open, 
and therefore favourable to all transplanting 
operations, that generally form a large propor¬ 
tion, and by far the most important, of the 
sork connected with extensions and alterations; 
but under no circumstances shonld planting be 
tone when the soil is in a puddled condition, 
but the -work may at that time be advanced by 
-irting the necessary soil and manure to the 
pound, and getting it read^by deep trenching 

TET 


id draining where netted! ^eddin 


§ 


surface of the hills or pots, but avoid the use of 
stimulants until they begin to bear fruit. Keep 
a sharp look-out for mildew, and check it at once 
by the application of dry sulphur to the leaves, 
renovation of the fermenting material, and the 
abundant use of water at a temperature equal to 
that of the soil containing the roots. Keep suc¬ 
cession plants growing by shifting them on before 
they become pot-bound if the pit in which they 
are to be planted is not ready for them. Never 
bury the stems of winter plants, as deep potting 
or heavy earthing is the frequent cause of them 
going off before the inexperienced are aware of 
their danger; but in potting or planting always 
keep the top of the ball near the surface, and 
coax the roots awvy into feeding ground some 
distance away from the stems. Where old 
veterans are still doing good service keep them 
copiously supplied with good warm, generous 
liquid, mulch the balls with short stable manure, 
and encourage an extension growth by allowing 
a number of the most promising Vines to ramble 
over any unoccupied part of the trellis. In every 
department keep the foliage free from insects by 
means of sponging or fumigating, and endeavour 
to maintain a healthy sturdy condition by inter¬ 
nal cleanliness and the frequentremovalofmatter 
which may accumulate upon the glass, and so 
interfere with the passage of solar warmth and 
light. _ 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

There is not much to do out-of-doors now 
beyond sweeping up fallen leaves, and removing 
dead or unsightly bedding plants or annuals. It 
is hardly worth while aoing much to the borders 
until the leaves are all off the trees, but when 
that has taken place, prepare for a general 
cleaning and digging all round. It is not 
desirable, in the town garden, to disturb more of 
the perennial or permanent plants than you can 
help, but these are generally comparatively few 
in number, and can be avoided with a little 
trouble. Dig the ground thoroughly, and if you 
have some sweet, half-decayed manure at hand, 
work in a moderate quantity, and leave the 
surface as rough as you can without being 
unsightly. Seme lay the manure on the ground 
in autumn, and digit in in spring, but though by 
this method the goodness goes into the ground 
just the same, yet the plan has a very unpleasant 
effect, and we believe that the soil, covered over 
by the manure from the beneficial effects of the 
sun and air, often becomes sour and unwhole¬ 
some. Beware also of adding any green rubbish, 
half-decayed leaves, or the like, to the ground 
when digging. This breeds all kinds of insects 
and diseases, and in a town garden particularly, 
where at no time is the soil any too sweet, 
should never be allowed. All such rubbish should 
be previously burnt, and the ashes will be highly 
beneficial. A little charcoal (animal if possible) 
or some lime is an excellent purifier of sour or 
unhealthy soil. 

In very few town gardens do the early spring¬ 
flowering plants, such as Wallflowers, Silenes, or 
Forget-me-nots do much good ; though Auri¬ 
culas, Polyanthus, Primroses, “ et hoc genus 
omne," may be freely planted. Wallflowers 
succeed, if well grown, from seed saved every 
year in the outer suburbs, and wherever they 
will do any good at all, should certainly be 
planted, but this is not everywhere, by any 
means. The principal dependence for winter 
and spring decoration must be upon the hardier 
evergreen shrubs and Dutch bulbs. 

In the greenhouse all should now be in a 
state of almost perfect order and cleanliness. 
Any plants that may have been brought in 
hurriedly, without being cleaned, should now be 
leisurely gone over and divested of every trace 
of decay, dirt, or insects. Do not put off the 
application of a little fire heat until very late. 
Many plants suffer more from damp than cold 
during November, and often before that. To 
counteract this pnt on a little fire in the morning, 
should the weather prove dull and cold for many 
days together, give plenty of air, and either let 
it out towards evening, or only just keep it in 
through tho night. 

Bring in batches of early Roman and other 
Hyacinths from the plunging bed outside when 
the pots are full of roots and the crowns be¬ 
ginning to push. Place these in subdued light 
at first, or the blanched tops may be injured. 
Put in later batches, also pot Spirteas, Dielytras, 
Lily of the Valley, Ac.; those are best plunged 



396 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Nov. 3, 1883. 


and covered with ashes, &c., in a cool place, as 
recommended for Hyacinths, or in a cold frame, 
till required to be brought in for forcing. Give 
Primulas coming into flower a dose of weak 
liquid manure two or three times a week; this 
will help them gTeatly. 

The best room plants now are Aspidistra 
lurida, Grevillea robusta, and the common green¬ 
leaved Dracaenas. All these require moderate 
watering through the winter, and to have their 
foliage kept clean, and they will live and grow 
almost anywhere. Of greenhouse Ferns the 
Pteris, Iparticularly P. cretica and P. serrulata, 
stand the dry harsh atmosphere of rooms best. 

_ B. C. R. 

INDOOR PLANTS. 


CULTURE OF FERNS IN POTS. 
Success in the cultivation of Ferns is only to be 
attained by carefully studying the wants of the 
plants and their individual peculiarities. Al¬ 
though some thrive best in shade and with abun¬ 
dant moisture, others prefer the brightest light, 
and flourish only on dry walls and chalky rocks, 
while a third class delight and grow luxuriantly 
for months, and even years, in the close confine¬ 
ment of a Fern case. Ferns can be grown with 
equal success in pots or planted in. the outdoor 
fernery. In all cases, however, the nearer con¬ 
ditions under which they grow naturally can be 
followed ths better. For pot culture the most 
effective plants are the Adiantums, some of the 
Aspleniums, Blechnums, Cyrtomiums, Davallias, 
Lastreas, Lomarias, Microlepias, Nephrodiums, 
Nephrolepis, Onychium, Polypodiums, Polysti- 
chums, Pteris, and Woodwardias. As regards 
soil, there must be many exceptionj to any rule, 
but the majority of Ferns like a compost formed 
of fibrous peat, good loam, and sharp coarse sand 
in equal parts, the whole chopped or broken ac¬ 
cording to the size of the pots used, but in no 
case should it be passed through a sieve. 
Though not absolutely necessary, if good leaf- 
mould is procurable, an equal portion added 
to the others will prove of great benefit to 
the plant, especially if rapid growth be 
the object in view. The pots should be 
well drained, for although Ferns are fond of 
moisture, nothing is more injurious to them than 
stagnant water. Dry, clean pots only should be 
used. If new, they should be well soaked and 
dried before the plants are put in them. If wet 
or dirty, it will be found impossible, when next 
the plants are repotted, to remove them with¬ 
out breaking a quantity of the roots, through 
the soil adhering to the sides. Whatever the 
sizes of the plants may be, care must be taken 
not to put them in too large pots. Even in the 
case of plants intended for specimens it is better 
to pot them often than to put a small plant into 
a large pot; such a course often ends in failure. 
Ferns, although requiring to be potted firmly, 
dislike hard potting. I have seen the soil filled 
up level with the rim of the pot, but that is a 
bad plan; the top of the ball should always be 
placed sufficiently low, to allow room for a good 
supply of water. For instance, in a l.j-inch pot 
leave half an inch of space for water, and in¬ 
crease it slightly, according to the dimensions of 
the pots used. In order to grow Ferns quickly, 
small plants require repotting several times 
during the season, but for larger ones a shift 
once a year will be found to be sufficient. The 
best time for that operation is towards the 
middle of February, when starting into growth, 
after which time the sooner it is done the better, 
as the partly developed fronds would suffer from 
root disturbance. Sufficient water to saturate 
the ball and the new soil should be given gently 
when the plants are put in their new pots, and 
they should not be watered again until they re¬ 
quire it. Many make a serious mistake in water¬ 
ing a little every day, as by so doing the surface 
of the soil is kept damp, while below it is dry, 
and the roots being principally at the bottom, 
the fronds begin to shrivel, and die one after 
another—the cultivator little suspecting drought 
to be the cause of the evil. P. 


10508. — Covering back walls in 

Vinery.—Do not try to grow Peaches under Vines; 
you will certainly fail as you would with any 
other fruit-bearing tree. Few flowering plants 
even do well in such a position, but notable 
exceptions are Camellias and Lapagerias, which 
are quite at, home, in the shade which Vines 

Digitized by GOOglC 


afford, and as the Camellias are quite hardy and 
Lapagerias nearly so, there would be no need to 
fire the house in winter. If profit is a con¬ 
sideration, white Camellias and the white 
Lapagerias always have a marketable value. 
What you have to do is, to make a border about 
18 inches or 2 feet deep and 3 feet wide, of peat 
and good fibrous loam in equal proportions, with 
plenty of silver sand in it. Get good plants of 
alba plena, fimbriata, imbricata, Chandleri, 
elegans, or any good kinds, and plant in April. 
Both white and red Lapagerias should be 
planted.—J. C. 


WINTERING BEDDING GERANIUMS. 
Although many rely on cuttings of bedding 
Geraniums struck in the autumn for their next 
year’s supply, it is questionable whether older 
plants are not to be preferred, for in the case of 
some of the variegated kinds I find that plants 
two or three years old are decidedly most effec¬ 
tive, plunging the pots in the soil of the bed, 
and allowing the roots to run out into the soil. 
The growth will then be firm and well matured, 
and the plants will keep with scarcely any loss. 
Of course, a certain percentage of plants must 
be propagated every season to keep up the stock, 
and young plants are always in request for 
edgings, but old plants of both fine-foliaged and 
flowering kinds should be retained in quantity 
for the following reason, viz., the foliaged kinds 
are better coloured and keep more compact in 
habit when confined to pots and merely plunged 
in the beds, and the flowering kinds are more 
floriferous, and as the season during which they 
are in the beds is comparatively short, compared 
with the time they are under glass, I can confi¬ 
dently recommend the practice of plunging the 
pots. 

When this practice is followed, the plants 
should be lifted before frost affects them, as 
although its effects may only be visible on the 
tips of the shoots, it soon extends by decaying 
down the stems, more especially if houses heated 
by artificial heat are not available, for I find 
that the early part of the winter is the most de¬ 
structive to Geraniums, from the excessive 
moisture in the atmosphere, and unless some 
artificial heat is employed to expel the damp, 
the plants rot from the frostbitten or freshly 
cut shoots; therefore, avoid frostbites by lifting 
before they are affected, and avoid cutting the 
tops in at all until the spring, when they may 
be shortened to the desired height and the tops 
utilised as cuttings. Plants that have been 
plunged should be lifted atonce, and the roots that 
extend out of the pot cut off; divest the plant 
of any decaying foliage, wash the pots, and set 
them on light, airy shelves. Keep them quite 
dry until they flag in the leaf, then give a water¬ 
ing, but do not water more than enough to just 
keep them from flagging. 

With plants that have been planted out in the 
usual way, lift them with a steel fork so as to 
get the roots up without breaking, and do not 
cut or break a shoot if it can be avoided; pick 
off all the oldest leaves, but leave all the young, 
healthy ones on the tips of the shoots to pro¬ 
mote root action, for as soon as they make fresh 
roots they are safe. Small pots are the best if 
space can be provided, putting one plant in a 
3-inch pot; but if space is limited larger pots or 
shallow boxes may be utilised, packing the 
plants in as thick as they will stand. Give one 
good watering to Bettle the soil around the roots, 
and then keep them moderately dry. A shelf in 
a warm greenhouse near the glass is the best 
place for wintering Geraniums, where they’will 
keep slowly growing during the winter, and as 
soon as the days begin to lengthen, pot them off 
singly, and gradually harden off by removing to 
cold frames and thence to temporary shelter. 
No plants are of easier culture than Geraniums, 
but no plants are lost in greater quantities at 
this time of year, simply from want of attention 
to a few trifling details of culture. The ordinary 
plan of lifting strong, coarse growing plants, and 
cutting them down and putting in cold pits or 
houses, does not yield satisfactory results, as I 
have manyjtimes proved, for the plants do not 
get rooted enough before winter sets in, and 
consequently rot at both root and top until but 
very few are left. But if transferred early enough 
to get rooted, and no fresh cuts made, the plants 
in the majority of cases live and do good service 
either for bedding or pot plants for greenhouse, 
balcony, or window gardening. J. Groom. 

Gnepert. 


HABROTHAMNUS FASCICULARIS. 

Few plants are more attractive during the 
early winter months than this, but it is one that 
demands liberal culture to develop to the fullest 
extent its characteristic features. When planted 
out in a cool greenhouse or conservatory, the 
larger amount of soil which is at the disposal of 
the roots causes a more free shoot extension, 
with a corresponding increase in amplitude of 
foliage and floriferousness. The amount of 
bloom produced under such conditions is out of all 
proportion to that given by plants which have 
been grown along under the ordinary rules of 
pot culture ; however, the plant itself, by reason 
of its exuberant growth, health, verdure of foli¬ 
age, and richer tint of flowers, offers a much 
more attractive appearance than the best pot 
culture can give. Trained to a pillar or to the 
back wall of a cool or intermediate house, this 
Habrothamnns produces an excellent effect. 

Where large specimens are required for con¬ 
servatory decoration, I would strongly recom¬ 
mend the planting them out for the summer, as 
they then make a strong growth for a corre¬ 
spondingly slight amount of labour. When 
done blooming they should be pruned in rather 
hard, kept on the dry side until they break, and. 
after a preparatory hardening off in the usual 
way, be planted out in the full sun in well stirred, 
mellow, rather richly manured soil. All that is 
then needed is an occasional watering in dry 
weather, and to be kept clean, now and then 
stirring the surface soil. The first or second 
week in September pot them up, and if they are 
carefully lifted and kept rather close for a few 
days, syringing once or twice a day, they will 
soon strike root again, and will not betray by 
their appearance that they have been out of pots 
all the growing time. 

If treated in this way,large, finely developed 
specimens may be obtained, which in health, 
luxuriance, and flower development will equal 
such as are planted out permanently under glass, 
and which, for the embellishment of large con¬ 
servatories, will have great value. Habrotliam- 
nus fascicularis is well adapted for training in 
standard form, and I strongly recommend those 
who grow it for the above-named purpose to 
employ it in that manner. Well-grown speci¬ 
mens with stems some 3 feet to 5 feet high, 
have quite a graceful appearance, and har¬ 
monises nicely with most other flowering and 
foliaged plants when grouped together. It is as 
forming a centre of a group that the beauty of 
this plant in standard form is best displayed. 
It has naturally much grace of growth, and this 
is nearly obliterated by the tying, training, and 
cramping which other methods of culture im¬ 
poses more or less on the grower. J. C. 

Byfleet. 


10464. — Treatment of Azaleas. — Ti e 

main points are to keep them in a light position, 
and to maintain the soil in a moist condition. 
Azaleas have fine hair-like roots, and suffer much 
when the soil is allowed to remain in a very dry- 
state. Not that it does them any harm to dry¬ 
out occasionally, but they must not remain so. 
A little weak soot water may be given them at 
any time, but they do not need much feeding 
until March unless they are forced, and then 
they should get some as soon as put in heat.— 
J. C. B. 

10460.— Forcing Azaleas.— A night tem¬ 
perature of 60°, with 55° by day, is quite enough 
to begin with. If higher temperatures than 
these are maintained in the depth of the winter, 
there is a chance of the buds not expanding. 
At the turn of the year five degrees more may¬ 
be given. Keep the soil nicely moist without 
over-watering, and you may give a little weak 
guano water now and then. Soot water is an 
excellent Btimulant at this time of year ; it gives 
colour to the foliage and substance to the bads. 
—J. C. B. 


10475.— Maiden-hair Feme.— The time to 
divide these is just as the young growths begin 
to push up in spring, as top growth is always 
accompanied by root activity. Cut through the 
crown with a sharp knife, and put the divided 
pieces into pots just large enough to contain the 
roots, using good peat with plenty of sand. Do 
not cut them up too much; it is better to divide 
them into two equal portions.—J. C. B. 

10458.— Dwarf Fuohsiaa— Some Fuch¬ 
sias, such as Miss Lye, Lucy Finnis, Wave of 
Life, and Bird of Paradise have a dwarfer habit 



Not. 3, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


397 


than others; bnt what is probably meant by the 
term dwarf Fuchsias is, plants that are grown 
in a bush or pyramidal form, and feathered 
down to the edge of the pot, instead of being 
trained, as is sometimes done, with a naked stem 
surmounted with a head of pendant branches. 
Bush Boses are often in the same way termed 
dwarf, to distinguish them from standards. In 
selecting Fuchsias to grow for exhibition, choose 
well-known free bloomers of good habit in pre¬ 
ference to many of the newer kinds, which, 
though bearing fine flowers, yet produce them 
very sparingly. I have frequently taken honours 
at onr local shows with such old varieties as 
Bose of Castile, Madam Cornellisen, Lucifer, 
and Avalanche, the last being perhaps the finest 
dark doable grown. Put Lucy Finnis in place 
of Mdme. Cornellisen, and these four would 
take a lot of beating if nicely grown. Train in 
a pyramidal shape, getting the best of the 
plants well furnished by timely pinching before 
the main stem runs away too far. Bose of 
Castile and some other light varieties should be 
dowered in the shade, as the tube and sepals be¬ 
come discoloured in bright sunshine.—J. Mar¬ 
tin. _ 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 

A FINE WALL SHRUB. 

(FREMONTIA CALIFORNICA.) 

The Fremontia is one of the handsomest among 
the many introductions tliat have been made to 
our gardens from the wealthy flora of California. 
The chief reason why it is not often met with is, 
no doubt, owing to its not being sufficiently 
hardy to withstand the full rigour of our climate 
unprotected, though under the shelter of a wall 
it attains alruost'f ull size in a comparatively short 
space of time. For clothing warm, sunny walls, 
indeed there are few finer shrubs in cultivation ; 
in early summer its long, slender branches are 
completely wreathed with large cup-like blos¬ 
soms of the richest yellow, and these remain in 
perfections long time, the numerous buds opening 
along the branch in quick succession. In Messrs. 
Teitch k Son’s nursery at Coombe Wood this 
shrub thrives admirably, planted against a 
warm south wall, where it flowers profusely 
every year. In such a position it is quite hardy 
without further protection; it should in all 
cases be placed in a sunny aspect, for it seldom 
does well otherwise. Till within a few years 
ago there was a fine specimen of it against 
one of the walls at Kew, bat, the aspect being 
almost due north, the wood never thoroughly 
ripened; consequently bnt few flowers were 
produced, and during the winter two years ago 
it succumbed. A warm aspect is indispensable, 
and this, with a light, thoroughly drained, but 
rich loamy soil, is all that it needs. It is a 
difficult plant to propagate, and it is only lately 
that Messrs. Veitch’s propagator has been 
successful with it, hence another cause of its 
rarity. It will, however, now become more 
common, as plants of it are being propagated 
more numerously than they hitherto have been. 
In its native country the Fremontia attains 
10 feet and often 20 feet in height and some¬ 
times its stem is as mush as 1 foot in diameter 
at the base. It inhabits the dry hill from Pit 
Biver to San Diego, but is most abundant in the 
foothills in the Siera Nevada, where it was first 
discovered by Colonel Fremont during one of his 
Californian expeditions, and in compliment to 
whom the genus, which is monotypic, has 
been named. The conditions, therefore, under 
which it is found naturally give a clue to the 
treatment which it should receive in cultivation ; 
in no case must it be subjected to excessive or 
stagnant moisture. 


fair proportion of loam will suit them. When 
potted place them in any cool glass structure, 
and at the same time Bhorten back some of the 
strongest growths; they only want temporary 
shelter under glass for a few weeks in order to 
encourage early root action; they should be ex¬ 
posed to the open air about the middle of May. 
The best position for them during summer is a 
south border under a wall or some other warm 
sitnation where the pots can be plunged to their 


ticular form, that should be dona before they 
are brought into heat. I have grown them on 
short stems about 2J feet high, and trained the 
branches into a compact head, but other plants 
grown without any training were the most satis¬ 
factory ; they produced more and larger balls 
of flowers, and were altogether more effective. 
When first put into heat the temperature should 
not exceed 65° for the first month, and;6o° by 
day and 55° by night by fire heat should not be 



A good Shrub for clothing a wall (Fremontla'callforalca). 


HARDY SHRUBS FOR FORCING. 

The Guelder Rose. 

Of all the hardy shrubs I have forced in my time 
this (Viburnum Opulus) has perhaps given me 
lost satisfaction Its abundant leafage and the 
Sstinctive character of its flowers make it valu- 
ible for forcing. It must, however, be grown in 
Wi for a year before it is forced. The best way 
i get plants of it for this purpose is to go to 
t nursery and select them. This may be done 
a any time from November to January. They 
s»uld be brought home and potted in suitable 
sfaj pots, but for all ordinary purposes plants 
sfanid be selected that can be potted in 10-inch 
pot. Any ordinary potting'Soii that contair s a 1 

Digitized by VjOOQlc 


rims either in a bed of soil or ashes; the plung¬ 
ing reduces the labour of watering, and at the 
same time the roots are maintained in a more 
uniform state of moisture, the result being steady 
and continuous growth that will produce a good 
crop of flowers. Early and hard forcing it can¬ 
not endnre ; therefore to have it in satisfactory 
oondition it ought not to be expected to flower 
until the end of March or early in April, To 
accomplish this it should be introduced into a 
medium temperature early in January, but I 
must remark here that the plants must not be 
interfered with in any way; the roots must, not 
be disturbed nor the branches pruned. If it is 
desired to have the plants trained in any par¬ 


exceeded. In this temperature they will come 
into flower in due time. 

Moutan Pajonies. 

Few if any plants produce a more charming 
effect than these when suitable sized plants artt 
obtained. The securing of large plants is no 
doubt the greatest difficulty, but where practic¬ 
able they should be had in preference to small 
ones, as the latter only produce two or three 
flowers: it requires plants from twelve to six¬ 
teen years of age to produce a score of blooms. 
The great merit of these Piconics is, whether old 
or young, they do not want any particular pre¬ 
paration. Being quite hardy, they are best grown 



ANA-CHA 



398 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Nov. 3, 1883. 


in the open ground, from which they maybe lifted 
and potted and forced the same season, and if 
pot ted in November they may be introduced into 
a temperature of 55° in the middle of December, 
and if worked on gradually in a day tempera¬ 
ture that never exceeds 60°, with plenty ofl ight 
and as much air as the season of the year will 
admit, they ought to be in flower in the third 
week in February, and when well bloomed they 
make grand ornaments for the conservatory. It 
would be misleading not to say that these plants 
suffer more from being forced than any others 
with which I am acquainted ; after being forced 
they take two or three years to recover, as when 
forced the terminal bud which contains the 
flower is the only bud that starts into growth. 
The lower or wood buds do not respond to the 
heat, but invariably perish. 

Double Blossomed Plum. 

The delicate whiteness of the double blossomed 
Plum is not excelled by any of the choicest of 
exotic flowers, and no plant is more easily 
managed. We raise our own plants from cuttings 
made from young wood in spring; the first year 
they are grown in pots, and the next spring they 
are planted out in rich soil in the reserve garden. 
After being two years in this position they make 
nice plants for forcing. We always pot up our 
stock in November, and introduce the plants into 
an intermediate temperature about the last week 
in December. During forcing these Plums re¬ 
ceive exactly the same treatment as the Guelder 
Bose, but it requires less time to bring them into 
flower. Our plants are generally in bloom about 
the third week in February. As soon as they go 
out of flower they are taken to a cool house, and 
after being hardened off all the growth is cut 
down to within an inch of the stem. Early in 
May the plants are replaced in the open ground, 
where after two summers’ growth they are again 
in a condition fit for forcing, 

Lilacs. 

I find the Persian kind to be the most useful, 
and to be more generally admired than the others. 
I have grown and forced Lilacs under a variety 
of circumstances, and I find that if small plants 
are wanted, and they are required to be in flower 
early, they must be grown in pots one year pre¬ 
vious to being forced; but where large plants 
are in demand, and the number sufficient to 
allow of certain plants being forced every 
alternate year, and then not subjected to hard 
forcing, they will flower in a very satisfactory 
manner. The early part of November is soon 
enough to lift and pot them from the open 
ground. It is better to give them rather large 
pots than to mutilate the roots too much. After 
being potted they require the protection of a 
cool house, from which fro9t is just excluded, 
and to be introduced into the forcing house 
early in the new year. The temperature at first 
should not exceed 55°, to be increased to 60° in 
three or four weeks—a temperature in which 
they will come into flower in Bix or seven weeks. 
The plants require a rather light situation and a 
liberal supply of air. C. C. 


FRUIT. 


NOTES ON STRAWBERRY BEDS. 


Few cultural operations are more timely need¬ 
ful or important than the top-dres9ing of Straw¬ 
berries at this season of the year. After trying 
various methods, the following has been found 
to be the best and most successful. It combines 
four important operations—surface scarifying, 
pest slaying or prevention, protection, and 
manuring. 

Killing Insect Pests. 


This is probably not the least important 
operation. It consists in forking up the surface 
between Strawberry rows to a depth varying 
from 1 inch to 3 or more inches. This of itself 
affords considerable protection to the roots of 
the Strawberry plants, inasmuch as loose soil is 
so much less pervious to the passage of heat than 
close, firm soil. There is no more effective 
recipe for conveying the cold with its utmost 
intensity to the roots of Strawberry plants than 
the leaving the surface hard and sour after 
heavy autumnal rainB. Break the surface up, 
and the conductive power of the earth is lessened 
in the ratio of the disintegration and consequent 
looseness of surface. Of course surface loosen¬ 
ing or scarificatjt>n'’haB, i otber^ atjv; 




cV 


anitages.'such 


as the sweetening and enrichment of the earth, 
and the stimulating effect of these and the 
partial root disturbance that the process involves. 
But the chief point of vantage in relation to the 
top-dressing of Strawberries in winter is the 
power of a loose surface as conserving the heat 
of the earth and shutting out the cold of the air. 
So potent is its influence in these directions, 
that could top-dressing operations be carried no 
further, it would be advisablo and most service¬ 
able to loosen the surface between the rows and 
plants. The next step in the process is to apply 
a pest-killing or preventive mixture. After try¬ 
ing various substances, such as minute sprink¬ 
lings of salt, gaslime, carbonate of lime, dress¬ 
ings of seaweed, Barley chaff or awns, very 
coarse sand, Cocoa-fibre refuse, a sprinkling of 
soot and lime, a mixture of the two latter in the 
proportion of two parts quicklime to one of soot, 
has been found to be the best. The plan has 
been tried of mixing the soot with the lime 
before it was slaked, and also of mixing im¬ 
mediately it has slaked while yet warm. While 
both of these modes probably succeeded in 
intermixing the two more intimately together, 
yet the heat of the lime seemed to waste a large 
portion of the ammonia of the soot; so it is 
better to mix them as soon as the lime is cool, 
and apply the mixture at once, for the moist air 
speedily destroys the caustic character of the 
lime, and the soot also appears to lose strength 
if the mixture lies long in bulk before use. 
Apply this immediately after forking up, and 
work it well among the crowns and under the 
leaves of the plants, as well as give a good 
sprinkling between the rows. If given as early 
as possible in the autumn, it will kill any stray 
late snails and slugs that may be about. The 
stinging pungency of rain-water after passing 
through this dressing seems to make short work 
with the larvat of such pests, as well as gets rid 
of any superabundance of worms that not seldom 
prove troublesome pests among Strawberries as 
well as amongst other things. 

Pbotection. 

Strawberry top-dresssing is more specially 
protective; though Strawberries are assumed to 
be hardy, it is nevertheless a fact well known 
that they are often severely crippled and not 
seldom destroyed in a wholesale manner by 
winters of abnormal severity. Few of our modern 
varieties can be looked upon as zero proof ; not 
a few varieties are severely tried by 15° of frost. 
Hence the prudence or absolute necessity of 
some direct protection for the crowns and roots 
of Strawberries in cold localities. The first 
and best protection for the crown is the old 
leaves. Under high cultivation these alone form 
a good covering ; but they must be supplemented 
by the addition of several inches of rough stable 
litter fresh from the stables, laid between the 
rows with the long straws spreading finely among 
rather than over the crowns. These, with the old 
leaves of the plants themselves, will carry most 
of our cultivated Strawberries safely through our 
severest winters. Fresh litter of this sort proves 
as durable as it is efficient. It should be left as 
loose and rough as possible on the surface; the 
more so the more efficient; and so important is 
looseness of surface and substance to its pro¬ 
tective efficiency, that should a heavy snowstorm 
fall soon after its application it is very desirable 
to go over the litter with a fork, and toss it up 
afresh, so that the surface may be again left 
rough. Of course, too much litter should not be 
used, nor must the crowns be wholly or heavily 
covered with it. Sometimes, however, a little 
wisp of the longest litter or an old hay or straw 
band has been loosely twisted round each plant 
under the leaves, and the latter allowed to drop 
over it. Plants so protected may be pronounced 
frost-proof up to any amount of cold that is likely 
to be experienced in our climate. A thickness 
from 3 inches to 4 inches will suffice between the 
rows. Some seem to think any protection of the 
roots of Strawberries unnecessary. Not a few of 
those who reason thus, however, unconsciously 
protect them by scarifying the surface more or 
less deeply. The change in the mode of Straw¬ 
berry culture almost involves the necessity of 
affording some protection to the roots of Straw¬ 
berry plants. Cultivated in masses in beds, the 
plantskepteachothcr’srootswarm. Even theold- 
fashioned, exploded, and barbarous practice of 
cutting off their leaves after fruiting assisted in 
affording extra protection to tops and roots alike. 
The second crop of leaves was not seldom more 


ample than the first, and having much shorter 
stems, they bent down over or closer to tbe 
crowns. 

The bed culture and closer planting of Straw¬ 
berries even when grown in rows presented but 
little or no bare ground for the frost to pene¬ 
trate to their roots. The practice then so 
common of strawing the beds and ground over 
to keep the fruit clean and of leaving the 
straw on till the following spring afforded very 
efficient protection to their roots. Be all that 
as it may, the wisdom of such a winter top¬ 
dressing as is here recommended has been abun¬ 
dantly proved by successful results. Applied 
in sufficient time, of proper thickness, and the 
right material chosen, it not only keeps the roots 
warm and the tops safe in winter, but, becomes 
a clean and anti-mud-splash bed for the ripe 
fruit in summer ; and thus our winter dressing 
supersedes the need of summer mulching, or, by 
forming such a suitable base for it, renders a 
very thin one of spent tan, dried Grass, long 
Cocoa-fibre refuse or straw amply sufficient. The 
litter, after serving all these useful purposes, is 
finally converted into an excellent manure. 

Manubing. 

The whole process of the top-dressing is 
manurial or enriching. Surface-stirring, decoc¬ 
tions for insects, the protecting mulch through¬ 
out—all add something to, or evolve strength out 
of, the Strawberry root-runs. The air that enters 
on the heels of the fork brings its quota of 
nitrogen and ammonia wit h it. It also assists in 
decomposing and setting free much of the 
manurial wealth held fast in virtue of the exclu¬ 
sion of the air by compression or an excess of 
water. Lime acts in a similar manner as a 
decomposer of old and a creator of new manures; 
possibly a portion of it is also absorbed by the 
Strawberries, that are so greedy of lime as to be 
classed as lime plants. They might almost with 
equal propriety be termed soot plants, for no 
manure seems so grateful nor useful to them as 
soot. It brings to them plentiful supplies of 
ammonia and nitrogen in such form as can be 
readily absorbed. And while no stimulant can be 
more repugnant to slugs or other pests that prey 
on Strawberries, none can add so much to the 
depth of colour, size, and vigour of their foliage, 
nor to the quality and flavour of their fruit. Tried 
against guano, soot has been proved the better 
manure again and again. And then there is the 
stable or rough farmyard manure. This raw or 
rotten is the stimulant par excellence for Straw¬ 
berries, bush fruits, or vegetables. It seems 
a combination or concentration of all manures 
that arc quickly available for the wants of 
plants, and speedily convertible into flowers, 
fruits, or vegetables as desired. On very poor 
soils from which very fine Strawberries are ex¬ 
pected, an addition might be made to this 
winter top-dressing. Interpose a 2-inch coatiDg 
of rich, well-rotted farmyard manure between 
the loose soil and the upper dressing or mulching, 
as in such cases it ought to be more correctly 
called ; but in ordinary cases the loose surface, 
the heavy sprinklings of lime and soot mixture, 
and the layer of fresh litter will prove sufficient 
Should a dry time set in before flowering, repeat 
the soot and lime, and wash it in with a deluging 
of clean water or sewage, and gather the Straw¬ 
berries in due season of finest size, of the highest 
quality, and in any quantity. F. 


RENOVATING OLD FRUIT TREES. 

That old trees in a barren, unhealthy condition 
may be greatly rejuvenated in appearance and 
made fruitful again I have repeated proofs, and 
as it takes a long time to get young ones to a 
size and strength sufficient to bear a crop, it is 
often worth while to take in hand the old ones 
and work at them in order to bring about their 
renovation. This may be done in a variety of * 
ways, among which one of the best is to thin 
out and severely cut back the branches so as to - 
induce the formation of young wood, as on this 
the blossom buds form. I remember a case of 
espalier Apples that were so crowded with spurs ' 
as to look like a hedge; and, as they had not 
borne for years, the owner was about having - 
them destroyed. I recommended him to oonvert i’t 
them into standards, which was done by cutting/: 1 
off all the branches but the two upper ones, and 1“ 
these were shortened back and left to form, ssl's 
it were, the frame of the tree. The spurs wenl k 
then thinned out, and the following spring thoul * 


Nov. 3, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


3!M) 


remaining broke with great strength, and made 
shoots daring the summer from 1 to 7 feet long, 
up the sides of many of which flower buds 
showed themselves in abundance. As the season 
was favourable, the year after these opened and 
set, and the trees have now large heads, and 
though not so clean and handsome in the stems 
as might be desired, they yield a fine lot of 
fruit. This could not have been got in anything 
like the time had young ones been planted, as 
they would have taken years in becoming estab¬ 
lished. 


Another way of treating old trees is to head 
back and graft them, and when that is done it 
is sometimes astonishing to see what effect it 
has, the whole character of the tree becoming 
changed. In the re-grafting of trees, ohoice of 
scions should be made from sorts that are known 
to do well in the locality, as much depends on 
that; it is of little use grafting if the tree is in 
a state of decay or decrepitude. To be a 
success, the roots must bo healthy, and if they 
are then the renewal of top-growth will be fast. 
The time to head back and graft trees is about 
the middle of March, as then the sap is in full 
dow, and the scions soon unite and become 
firmly attached. That the tree to be operated on 
may be in advance of the scions, it is a good 
plan to take these latter off some weeks before 
they are wanted, and lay their ends deeply in 
the ground at the back of a north wall or other 
moist shady place till they are wanted for use. 

As the branches will be so much larger 
than the grafts to be placed on them, it will be 
necessary to insert the scions under the rind of 
the stock. This may easily be done by making 
a long slanting cut at the end of the graft—like 
that when forming a quill peu—when, by making 
a slit of corresponding length through the bark 
of the cut-back branch on which it is to be put, 
the scion may be inserted and kept close to the 
wood. To admit of this being done, without 
bruising the graft, it is a good plan to thrust 
under a hard piece of wood, trimmed smooth, 
and made the same form a3 that of the scion. 
Tho next point of importance is the tying, 
which should be done securely by the use of 
soft matting, without bringing too much pressure 
to bear. As soon as the tying is finished, it is 
necessary at once to envelop the part with a 
plaster of clay to keep out the air. To prevent the 
clay cracking it should be mixed with equal por- 
t’ons of fresh cow manure, which, having much 
vegetable matter in it, secures cohesion, and 
helps to maintain the whole moist. What throws 
fruit trees out of health as much, or more, per¬ 
haps, than anything else, is the bark becoming 
unhealthy through parasites, sucli as Moss and 
Lichen, which ramify and stop up the pores of 
the trees. On the trunk and main stems the 
readiest way of dealing with these parasites is 
to scrape them off with some blunt instrument, 
and then dress over the affected parts with thick 
lime-wash, which is also the best thing that can 
be had for the branches. The readiest and 
quickest way of applying it to these is to have 
it just thin enough to syringe on, as by the use 
of that instrument a lot of trees may be covered 
in a very short time. 


In cases where they areaffected with American 
blight, to which Apple trees are very subject, 
there is nothing I am acquainted with equal to 
paraffin, which is so searching and penetrating 
as to find its way into every crevice and soak 
through the oily coats of the insects. Paraffin, 
like lime-wash, may be syringed on or dabbed 
into the parts where the bugs are by the use of a 
brush. Paraffin alone is too Btrong, and may be 
used with three parts water, which should be 
hot, as then the two mix better and are more 
destructive to insects. Besides suffering from 
the maladies referred to, fruit trees are often in 
a state of semi-starvation from overcropping 
and poverty of soil, the remedy for which is sur¬ 
face mulching and frequent soakings of liquid 
manure. The latter should be given during the 
summer and autumn, and the former at once, or 
in cases where the drainage is good liquid 
manure may with advantage bo administered 
ww, as so long as it does not render the ground 
uar and sodden, it will in the end have a bene¬ 
fit effect on the roots. These the mulching 
Courages and attracts by the shade it affords 
*td the uniformity of moisture it maintains in 
tin soil, as by its use evaporation is interoe] 
mi the fierce rays of the sfn Bept at '— 




is intercepted 

if tba gle 


VEGETABLES. 


HOW I GROW THE TOMATO. 

Tins culture of this plant is now pretty well 
understood; but some of the directions given to 
pinch and prune it, in order to promote fertility, 
indicate quite a mistaken notion of its habit and 
capabilities. In growing Tomatoes for profit, they 
must, except in favoured localities in the south, 
be grown under glass, and they will repay any¬ 
one to raise them in that manner, as all the fruit 
that can be grown can be sold, and from April 
till August very good prices can be obtained, 
ranging from Is. Cd. or is. to 8d., never, so far 
as we know, failing below 4d. per pound even 
when plentiful, which is from August till 
November, when prices go np again. Pourpence 
per pound will, however, repay anyone who goes 
in for Tomato culture on a sufficiently extensive 
scale. A beginner who does not already possess 
glasshouses would, I imagine, find low frames 
best and cheapest for his purpose. For years 
we found these equal to the best kind of glass 
structures. They may be made cheaply, too. A 
low post-and-rail frame, perhaps 3 feet deep at 
the back, or less, and 18 inches in front, 6 feet 
wide inside, and any length, would do, and the 
spaces between the posts under the top can be 
filled up by deal planks nailed on, or by mats 
doubled and stuffed between by straw, and 
nailed tightly to the rails and posts. This isnot 
a lasting kind of lining, bnt it will do for a 
year or two, and costs little more than the work 
of erection. Turf, however, can be used for the 
same purpose; and if the frame be partly dug 
out, the less building above ground will be 
necessary. The posts should be the same dis¬ 
tance asunder as the glass lights are wide, unless 
the top rail be extra strong, in which case that 
does not matter. The lights should be of the 
usual pattern, with panes 9 incheB wide. The pits 
must be heated by a single row of 3-inch pipes 
running during the frost close to the posts, and 
returning by the back. Not much fire heat will 
be required, except when the plants are put out 
in February or March, and perhaps in autumn, to 
ripen late crops, for it must be remembered that 
the Tomato bears just as long as it enjoys a suit¬ 
able temperature, and it pays well to give it the 
small degree of artificial heat it requires. Many 
hundreds of feet of piping may be heated for a 
few pounds annually, and the first crop ought to 
pay, or nearly pay, for the outlay. In pits of 
this kind we have gathered plenty of fruit and 
to spare from May till Christmas. Our plan was 
to sow seed in January or sooner, pot the seed¬ 
lings off into 3-inch pots, and soon after (as they 
grow fast) into 5-inch or 6-inch pots, in which 
they would attain a height of 2 feet or 3 feet, 
when they were put out in the frame and pegged 
down over a few old Pea sticks laid on the soil; 
and, since thinning ont the shoots, they required 
no more attention during the season. 

Pruning and training generally. —As 
lias just been remarked, a mistaken notion exists 
concerning the habit of the Tomato and its 
cultnre. As a rule, pinching is recommended to 
make the plant fruit, but this it does not need 
at all. In fact, pinching hinders both growth 
and productiveness. A Tomato allowed to grow 
unrestricted pushes laterals freely along its 
whole stem, and these branch out freely again, 
producing quantities of flowers at all points; 
hence all we have to do is to encourage as much 
growth as possible, as tho more branches the 
more fruit. The plants will require to be 
thinned; that is, whole shoots will need to be 
removed at times, and even sometimes every 
alternate plant; but on no account should the 
shoots left be cat or shortened in the least. Run 
them out into fruit, and let them expend their 
force there. We have had rows of plants 15 feet 
high, that bore from top to bottom for months; 
and wo have a batch of plants at the present 
time in 10-inch and 12-inch pots that are 12 feet 
high, and that have borne most abundantly all 
the season, and are still laden witli fruit in all 
stages of progress. In fact, we doubt if the 
weight and continuance of our crops, grown in 
this way, have been oftened equalled. When 
the plants are at their best, the clusters are 
enormous and the fruit large ; and it stands to 
reason that we must have shoots and leaves to 
carry on such work. To sustain this degree of 
fertility and growth in pots, the plants have to 
be well nourished, and so they are. First, they 
are potted in strong loam and manure, and the 


pots are packed between with Moss to prevent 
evaporation. In addition, as soon as growth has 
fairly commenced, liquid manure is given every 
day, until in the end it is given almost undiluted 
from the farmyard; and the plants are all the 
better for it, as towards the end of the season 
the pots become a mass of hard roots. Planted 
out the Tomato bears the greatest weight of fruit, 
but the border must not be too deep, nor so rich 
as when pots are used, otherwise the plants 
grow more before beginning to bear; but when 
they do begin they make up for it in the size 
and weight of the fruit and in its quantity. Some 
people condemn large Tomatoes, and think they 
are coarse, but they are most popular for market 
purposes, and pay best, and the cook likes them. 
It is a great matter to get a good kind that is a 
good bearer, and in this respect we have met with 
none better than the common red. It is not so 
handsome as the variety called Vick's Criteiion 
and some others, but it is a much better bearer 
and as good otherwise, as we have proved more 
than once by growing the two side by side. The 
careful observer will, however, often notice a 
difference in plants from seed of the same kind. 
Some will produce larger fruit and more of it than 
others, and as it is quite an easy matter to save 
seed, it should be saved from the finest fruits 
and most prolific plants. We grow a variety 
saved in this way, which we think an extra pro¬ 
lific sort. Of course, those who only grow 

Tomatoes for home use may supply their 
wants with a few plants grown in any warm or 
intermediate house; but to have a long supply 
they must sow seed early, and push the young 
plants on in a temperature between that of the 
greenhouse and stove. The Tomato rejoices in a 
very high temperature, with plenty of light and 
free ventilation, and it will bear long and well 
under such conditions; but it will also thrive in 
a temperature ranging constantly from sixty 
degrees to seventy degrees, so that it is not a 
difficult subject to accommodate in that respect. 
To have very early crops, cuttings of old plants 
should be struck in August or September, and 
wintered in a warm house or pit till December or 
January, and then planted out or potted. These 
plants will fruit in February or March, and 
continue to bear the whole summer and autumn, 
is. or Is. 6d. a pound or more can be had for 
early fruit, and some single fruit will weigh 
nearly or quite a pound, so that early culture 
pays. Since the above was written I have come 
across a note regarding 

The flavour of Tomatoes.—A good cook 
probably knows what good Tomatoes are as 
well as anybody, as he has to use them for a 
variety of purposes. In answer to enquiries on 
this head by the writer to a noted cook, his 
reply was, “ We use them for salads, sauce, dres¬ 
sing, jam, and a number of savoury things ; the 
piquant-flavoured ones are the best for general 
use, and some are more piquant than others," 
adding that the common red kind, as regards 
colour, firm flesh, and general good quality, was 
one of the best, and decidedly superior to Excel¬ 
sior and others (which he said he had frequently 
bought in London) except in appearance. A flat- 
flavoured Tomato he did not like, and for gene¬ 
ral cooking purposes, the shape of the fruit, 
whether corrugated or smooth, was of no con¬ 
sequence, except when served up whole ; he al¬ 
ways picked the medium-sized and most sym¬ 
metrical of the common red for that purpose ; 
but only a few are used and at times in that 
way. Showing me a basin in which Tomato 
sauce was beaten up like paste, “ See,” he said, 

“ good colour and flavour is all we want here, 
and for many other purposes.” After all, how¬ 
ever, it matters little what sort we grow if they 
are all grown well. The worst Tomatoes, like 
bad Grapes, are those which are not grown in 
the right way. Grown under the shade of Vines 
or Peaches, or outdoors, the Tomato is neither 
well coloured, well flavoured, nor firm-fleshed. It 
is a plant that rejoices in the sunshine, and it is 
as cheap as any other to grow it in the right way, 
which is in a position fully exposed to the sun¬ 
shine, with a tolerably high temperature. 

_ J. S. W. 

The Potato crop. — I have grown upwards 
of twenty sorts this season, and I find Early 
Rose, Early Vermont, Myatt’s Ashleaf, and 
Beauty of Hebron the best earlies; Vermont 
beating Myatt’s by a week under exactly similar 
conditions as to treatment and situation 


400 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Nov. 3, 1883. 


Bresee’s Prolific, as a second early, has done 
best for me, being an enormous cropper. Daniels' 
Advancer, Vicar of Laleham, and Peerless Rose 
are also very good, the latter being the hand¬ 
somest red kidney I ever saw, and a capital 
user on our soil—gravel. In late varieties, 
Magnum Bonum still holds its own, turning up 
a capital crop this year, and very few diseased ; 
White Elephant, heavy cropper, but rather 
coarse, 6ome few specimens turning the scale at 
two pounds; Clarke's No. 1, sent out by Daniels 
Bros., Norwich, as a new variety, has fulfilled 
expectations, a capital user and very productive. 
My experience of Schoolmaster is on a par with 
that of your correspondent " E. D.”—there being 
abundance of Potatoes, but small.— Whin Moor, 
yurka. 


SALSAFY AND SCORZONERA. 

These are often called the “ oyster plant ” or 
“ vegetable oyster,” but it is the Salsafy which 
has most claim to this term, as when boiled in 
milk or fried in butter it has a peculiar resem¬ 
blance to oysters in flavour. In many small 
gardens, however, neither of these roots are 
cultivated, a great omission, as they are choice 
and well flavoured and useful in the autumn and 
throughout the winter. From now onwards few 
have so many vegetables to choose from as they 
had in summer, but changes are still as desirable; 
therefore, all should study to grow as great a 
variety as possible for winter supplies. With 
this object in view, Salsafy and Scorzonera can 
be strongly recommended for culture; and 
although the present is not a time to begin it, 
the seed order for next year should not be sent 
away without putting a few ounces down against 
these names. Roots of these plants which have 
been growing throughout the summer will now 
be matured, and they will bear being treated in 
various ways to keep them on throughout the 
winter. As a rule, we never lift the whole of our 
roots in autumn, bnt so long as the weather re¬ 
mains open they are left in the ground, and we 
lift a dish as they are wanted. On the appear¬ 
ance of frost setting in a quantity is lifted, 
taken into a shed, and covered over with leaf 
soil or sand to prevent them from shrivelling. 
The remainder are left in the ground, and we 
have found them to keep well there until spring, 
although exposed to a great deal of frost and all 
kinds of weather. Should circumstances cause 
us to lift the whole at present we would Btore 
them all with the Carrots and Beet in sand or 
ashes in a cool, dry shed, but they would require 
to be looked over ence a month or so, as they 
are rather inclined to sprout out again. With 
ordinary attention a continuous supply of good 
roots may be had from now until Easter, and 
then a fresh supply must be thought of. 

Soil. —There is no kind of root crop more in¬ 
clined to throw out side roots and fork from the 
main one than Salsafy and Scorzonera, and in 
stiff shallow soil this may spoil the crop alto¬ 
gether. For this reason the land for the culti¬ 
vation of these roots should be chosen with care; 
an open, deep rich soil is the kind to reserve for 
them. This may be looked to during the winter, 
and if deficient in any respect let the deficiency 
be made up. Trenching, digging, or manuring 
may be wanted, but this may all be done some 
time before sowing time, especially the putting 
in of manure, as rough material of this kind also 
causes the roots to fork. 

Sowing. —Early sowing should not be prac¬ 
tised, as of all vegetables none are more liable 
to run to seed prematurely. There is no objec¬ 
tion, however, to the making of two sowings, one 
about the middle of April, and the other half¬ 
way in May. In some seasons and soils both 
may do well, but in others the first may all 

bolt.” Early in May is also a good time to sow, 
and as the ground will have been previously pre¬ 
pared, advantage should be taken of a 
fine day to get the seed in. It is best to sow 
in rows. These should be about 15 inches apart 
and 2 inches deep when opened for the seed. 
Thin sowing should be the rule. Ultimately the 
plants should stand about 1 foot apart in the 
rows, and if two or three seeds are put in at 
every foot apart the plants will come up in little 
clusters and can be thinned out, leaving only one 
for the crop. This mode of sowing takes less 
seed than when put in throughout the whole 
row. After covering the seed, care must be 

bey are 
can be 


taken that mice dq not destroyi it, as tl 
wonderfully fondof i^r^WhejiM plants 


seen above ground, however, they are quite Bafe, 
as other ver min do not appear to do them much 
injury. 

Thinning out the plants as they become large 
enough, and hoeing between the rows to kill the 
weeds in summer constitute the whole of the 
attention which they require when growing, and 
this should not be neglected, as it is on securing 
large fleBhy roots that their value depends. As 
these two vegetables are so much alike in their 
cultural requirements, I have not thought it 
worth while to make a distinction between them, 
but those who do not care to grow both will find 
Salsafy the most useful. J. M. 


MANAGEMENT OF BOILERS. 

As winter is approaching, it has occurred to 
me that an account of the way in which I have 
successfully managed my slow combustion 
coil boiler may be acceptable to some readers 
of Gardening. My boiler is of the size advertised 
to heat 85 feet of 4-inch pipe. Ordinarily it 
heats 40 feet only, but during severe 
weather and in the spring it heats equal 
to 75 feet. It is in the open air, quite exposed, 
except that it is under an Apple tree, and is 
partly sunk in the ground. The exit for the 
smoke is on a level with the uppermost coil, or 
about 2 feet from the top of the stove, and is 
connected with 5 feet of stove pipe. The fuel is 
put in at a hole in the top, the hole being closed 
by a lid fitting into a groove. There is no danger, 
but the combustion is regulated by the admis¬ 
sion of air through a sliding door at the bottom. 
The extent of piping is large in proportion to 
the space to be heated (a series of frames). A 
very strong fire is, therefore, seldom necessary. 
So much for the boiler, now for the management. 

To start the stove, push in paper from the top, 
drop on that plenty of wood, and on the wood 
two quarts or so of fuel, half coal half coke 
or cinders. Light from below, leave the lid at 
the top off, and a moderate quantity of air on 
(about an inch) until the wood is well alight, 
then replace the lid at the top and pour water 
into the groove to keep it air-tight. When the 
fire is fairly going, put on about a gallon of the 
same fuel as before, and when that has burnt 
clear, fill with coke broken to about the size of 
a walnut up to a few inches above the level of 
the top of the smoke exit hole. Up to the pre¬ 
sent stage leave plenty of air on at the bottom 
so that the fire may burn freely. From fifteen 
to thirty minutes after the coke is put on, fill 
the stove up to the top with a mixture of half 
coal half coke broken to about the size of a hen's 
egg, the coke rather smaller; the coal may be 
rather larger. Fill the groove with water, which 
will not now readily evaporate, as the top of 
the stove should be quite cool, and slide up the 
air-door, leaving only about one-eighth to one- 
quarter inch space, according to the temperature 
desired. One-quarter inch should mean a strong 
fire, one-eiglith a moderate one, sufficient for 
general purposes, and merely a hair crack will 
keep the stove alight and the water just warm. 
The boiler may now be considered fairly started. 
If we could inspect it in section we should see a 
body of incandescent coke and cinders to the 
top of the exit pipe; just above this the mixed 
coal and coke would be in a smouldering state, 
the coal in course of conversion into coke, the 
tar and volatile products being consumed in 
their poBsage through the clear fire below. The 
fuel at the top should be quite cool, and will be 
so if care be taken to keep the groove filled with 
water. 

Each evening, say at six o’clock, the dust 
should be raked out through the bars at the 
bottom by meaDS of a poker with a hook at the 
end, the fuel gently pushed down from the top, 
and additional air left on for about half an hour 
or an hour, until the fire becomes pretty strong. 
The stove should then be filled up with some fuel, 
as before, water in grooves replenished, and air- 
slide closed according to temperature required. 
My experience is that the stove so left will keep 
a pretty constant temperature for about twelve 
hours, and the fire will not be out at the end of 
fifteen or eighteen hours. 

In the morning proceed as in the evening, but 
if little heat is required during the day, the air 
may be shut off entirely, provided the stove can 
be looked at and air let in occasionally to 
prevent the fire from going out. 

Under this system my stove was only out 
about three or four hours between November 


8 last year and the middle of June. I would 
observe that no draught is necessary, and the 
less there is the better; the stove-pipe is only 
of use to carry the smoke out of the way. The 
coke I use is common gas-coke, the coal a 
moderately bituminous Derbyshire. If very 
bituminous coal is used, a smaller proportion 
must be mixed with the coke, or the tar, &c., will 
pass nnconsumed into the smoke-pipe, and there 
condense. If a very hot fire is required, coke 
alone may be used, but the stove will require 
more frequent attention. The boiler would be 
better under cover, but though it has deterio¬ 
rated through exposure, this will be its fourth 
winter. I do not think I could work the boiler 
if the smoke was carried into a brick chimney 
fine; the draught would be too great, and it 
would vary with every change in the wind. 

D. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 

(miscellaneous.) 

10490.—Gas heating for email green¬ 
houses.—Discard the notion of heating by gas 
alone, because to do this your warming (or 
effluvia) pipe must be of great length for heating 
purposes, and the product of combustion from 
coal gas being heavier than the ordinary atmo¬ 
sphere, is very apt (especially at night) to roll 
back and put out the light. The only practical 
way to use gas is as the fuel to heat the boiler 
for hot-water pipes. Gas, as fuel, on account of 
the expense, is out of the question for large 
houses. For small houses, a well-formed copper 
boiler, in a chamber tolerably tight, made of cast 
or galvanised wrought iron, and connected to 
2-inch cast-iron hot-water pipes fixed in the 
usual way, will be found to be a handy arrange¬ 
ment. And under the boiler fix atmospheric 
burners in the chamber, then bring, say, a 2-inch 
pipe into the bottom of the chamber from the 
outside of greenhouse to admit air to supply 
these burners, and take by same size pipe from 
the top of chamber the effluvia to outside of 
greenhouse by the shortest way. Nothing is 
gained by lengthening this pipe, as it increase^ 
the draught and drags the heat more quickly 
from the boiler; also, if taken out high up the 
greenhouse, the effluvia is liable to be blown 
back into the house, which is certain death to 
the plants. A house 12 feet by 8 feet shonld 
have a double or treble chambered copper boiler 
about 10 inches diameter, and 24 feet of 2 inch 
pipe. Two atmospheric burners, working inde¬ 
pendently, will be needed to get the water hot, 
after which one will do all that is wanted. 
The cost will be about one penny per eight 
hours, three shillings per 1000 feet being the 
price of gas, or about 4 feet per hour. I have 
one as described in use, and have had more than 
twenty years’ experience in gas heating for this 
purpose. The cost of a well-made apparatus and 
pipes complete as above should be about £i ,— 
H. T. H., Moseley. 

10455.—Rose Guttings.— You killed the 
cuttiDgs with kindness. If, instead of putting 
them in a close warm case, you had dibbled them 
in the open ground, you would have stood a 
better chance of success. It is only in spring 
that Rose cuttings can be struck in warmth. 
Now is the time for putting them in the open 
ground. Choose strong or rather medium-size 1 
shoots, and cut into pieces with about three 
eyes each, but the best cuttings are those which 
have a little bit of old wood to the base of them. 
The soil should be light and sandy, and the 
position a north border. Insert them to midway 
between the top and second bud, and make the 
soil very firm round them. Take care the soil 
does not get dry in spring.—J. C. B. 

10557. — Lillum auratum— Pot this as 
soon as the foliage has turned yellow and died 
down ; it is then at rest. If the soil is moist, it 
will need no water until the spring frosts are 
over; until that time it may be stowed away 
in any convenient spot. When it commences to 
push the stem, water and give plenty of light 
and air. In potting, always leave room at l ho 
top for more Boil to be added when the surfac® 
roots appear soon after growth commences — 

| J. T. F. 

10514.—SpIrsBas.— Get the Spineas lifted 
and potted as soon as possible. If no other soil 
can be got, good garden mould will do; but. if 
you have anything better, let them have it j 
Fibrous loam two parts and leaf mould ontj 


Nov. 3, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


part, with a little sand added, will suit them 
admirably. After the pots are well filled with 
roots, you will be safe to give them weak liquid 
manure every other watering. They like plenty 
of water when growing.—J. Robertson. 

10562. — Mending: gutta-percha tub¬ 
ing—Procure some pieces of gutta-percha, melt 
them as you would glue, that is, a vessel inside 
another half filled with water; just rough the 
part to be mended with an old file, and slightly 
warm it before the fire and proceed to lay on the 
melted gutta-percha ; it cools very quickly, and 
can then be trimmed off with a sharp knife. 
Some shops, I think, keep a preparation in tins 
for this purpose.—J. T. F. 

10461.—Rob© Felioite Perpetue.— This 
succeeds splendidly with me without any 
attention beyond cutting out dead wood. The 
new shoots should not be shortened, they will 
tiower next year; and if allowed to climb freely 
over any tree.it will cover it with masses of lovely 
little white rosettes, and much better than with¬ 
out support. Mine rambles over a holly 20 feet 
high, and when in bloom forms a white veil over 
the tree.—K nockmaroon. 

10509. — Lichen in pota. — The Lichen 
growing on the surface of the soil of the Camel¬ 
lia pots is not good for the plants, nor does it 
look well. Take a blunt-pointed stick and pick 
it all off; pick off about an inch of the top 
soil alss, if you can do it without injuring the 
roots; then top dress with a mixture of equal 
parts rotten cow manure and turfy loam, with a 
little sand added to keep it porous.—J. Robert¬ 
son, Con'dcnhiowes. 

-Clean it off. Stopping the pores of the 

soil has an evil effect on root action. A piece of 
wood with a short wedge-like edge is what is 
commonly used by plant growers for this purpose. 
You will not hurt the roots if you work carefully 
and apply a little fresh soil to the surface, 
pressing it down very firm.—J. O. B. 

10511.— Protecting Strawberries.— 
Presuming your Strawberries have all been pro¬ 
perly cleaned of runners and weeds between the 
lines, the only protection needed is to mulch 
with good half-rotten manure between the lines; 
do not cover the crowns of the plants, or you 
may injure them: lay on the manure 4 inches 
thick. Spent Mushroom bed manure (if you 
have it) is fine for the purpose.—J. Robertson. 

-Strawberries are perfectly hardy, very rarely 

safe ring from frost, but they are certainly bene¬ 
fited by a top dressing of rotten dung put on in 
dry weather in November. The usual method, 
however, is to cover the soil in spring, just as 
they begin to grow, with littery manure, as the 
rain then washes the nutritive particles into the 
earth, leaving the straw clean for the fruit to 
rest upon.—J.O. B. 

10486.— To get rid of bats from a 

church.—Bum common sulphur in iron crocks in 
various parts of the church, closing doors and 
windows as far as possible. Remove brass 
fittings, or cover well. If floor be wood, place 
the crocks on bricks and not near any wood¬ 
work. Repeat tnis fumigation within a few days 
if bats reappear.—J. M. W. 

10561. — Makincr propagating frame. — If you 
will send to the office of this paper for the issue of 
Much 31 last, you will find complete instructions given 
at page 58 for constructing the above, together with an 
illustration of the same.—J. T. F. 

10607.— Vines and hot-water pipes.— The Grape 
** .by the roots coming 


3, Wellington or Normanton Wonder; 8, Alfriafcon; 4, 

Norfolk Beefing.- Countryman.— 1, Cellini; 2, King 

of the Pippins; 3, Golden Knob ; 4, cannot name.- 

A. B. (?.—1, Golden Noble ; 2, probably local sort. 

Names Of plants.— G. A. Cooke.— Stapelia variegata 

(Carrion Flower).- O. E. W .—Cannot name ; out of 

season.-T. M — Acacia Farnesiana.- W. Marshall.— 

Claytonia sibirica (not native).- J. D. — Cuphea 

platycentra.- E. G.—Nephrolepis exaltata, Adiantum 

hlspidulum, Pteris serrulata, Selagiuella Willdenovi (no 

numbers attached).- Amateur.— 1. Crassula species; 2, 

Tanacetum vulgare (Tansy); 8, Sedum Sieboldl; 4, 

Oxalis species.- DoubtfiU.— Veronica Andersoni.- 

Lhounyvia.—We do not name varieties of Dahlias.- 

J. T. F.— 1, Veronica decuasata: 2, Variegated Peri¬ 
winkle. 3 {. Austin .—Send better specimen, please. 

- R. B. T.— Not received.- Q. W. O .—Spiraea callosa 

alba.- Candeur.— Aspidlum angulare proliferum.- 

S. Ji.— Next week.— Juvenile Daisy. —Diplacus gluti- 

nosus.- G. R. <7.-1, Doodia dives ; 2, send frond with 

spores; 3, Piatyloma rotundifoliar, 4, Onoclea sensl- 

bilis ; 6, Aspldium Filix-mas criatata.- S. R .—1, 

Lastrea spinulosa; 2, Polystichom angulare ; 3, Lastrea 

dllatata; 4, Athyrium fllix feminoo.- A. U. K. F. — 

Tagetea signata pumila (annual).- Winkfleld. — 1, 

Schizoitylis cocclnea; 2, Cholsya ternata.- Hamburg. 

—It is impoisible to name varieties of Grapes by leaves 

only.- S. M. W .—Agathsea ccelestis.- G. Guernsey.— 

Trlcyrtis hlrta, Myrtua communis angustifolia.- 

Jf. A. Ballard.—1. Bouvardia Hogarth; 2, Salvia 
splendens; 8, Selaginella denticulate ; 4, Begonia asco- 

tensis.- Mrs. Down.— Hedychium Gardnerianum.- 

J. W. T. —1, flolcus mollis; 2, Poa annua; 8, Cynosurus 

cristatus; 4, Agrostis species.- J. T. /'’.—Selaginella 

cresia arborea.- W. H. Allchin. — Polygonum cnsplda- 

tum, Veronica angustifolia, Echeveria secunda glauca. 

- J. T. J*.—Chrysanthemum coronarium fl.-pl.- 

Shamrock. — Cynoglossum sempervirens. - R. R. 

(Naim). -1, Agrostemma coronaria; 2, Saxifraga 

cunelfolia; 3, send In flower; 4, send In flower.- 

J. Roger son. — Sedum acre.- T. H. M. — Cen taurea 

nigra ;2, Euphorbia Replis.-C. F.— Cannot name from 

leaves only. 


10607.— Vines and hot-water pipes.—The Grape 
Mne would certainly be injured by the roots coming 
into contact with the hot-water pipes. Build a wall of 
brick, one brick thick, between the pipes and the Vine 
border.—J. Robertson. 


Apple blossom.— S. O.— Not at all uncommon. 

M. B.—' Veitch Sons, Royal Exotic Nursery, Chelsea ; 

Richard Smith & Co , St. John's, Worcester ; or at any 

other hardy tree nursery.- Nuisance. —The cistern is 

too low, raise it 1 feet or 2 feet higher if you can ; also 
put an air pipe in the pipes at the highest point, and the 

nuisance will probably cease.- Delta. — Messrs. Vil- 

oortn, Andrieux <fe Co., Qual de la M^gisserie, Paris; 

X Van Houtte, Gendragge, Ohent, Belgium.- Ponte - 

'met.— Make inquiries in your neighbourhood. Such 
Serial, taken from a distance, costs double its value 
r carriage.- M. F. K. —The stove mentioned is adver¬ 
ted In our columns every week.- R. E. P.— We 

mow nothing of the system of fruit culture of which you 
wke mention. 

Jumbo.— At any good seed shop.- Anxious.— Yeur 

be is evidently dead. The only course 1 b to root it up 
< plant another. We cannot glean from your letter 

cause of its dying.- W. F. /{.—Unless you protect 

ktree, it will be almost sure to perish if the winter is 

Sames of fruits.— Colonel D.—King of the Pippins. 
— Shamrock. —Cat's-hcad probably, but too rotten to 
with certainty.- Mr. Alan.— l^Q^x’s Pon^oija; 


* QUERIES. 

)f _ 

18 Rules for Correspondents.— A ll communica• 
e. tions for insertion should be clearly and concisely written 
[y on one side qf the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
X Letters relating to business to the PUBLISUER. The name 
and address qf the. sender is required , in addition to a ny 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Amwers to Queries 
_ should always bear the number and title qf the ouery 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity qf 
ie Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
•Ij day of publication , if is not possible to insert queries and 
’ t communications the week they are received. Queries not 
3 1 ansicered should be sent to us again. 

>U Naming plants. —Four plants, fruits, or flowers only 
58 can be named at one time , and this only token good 
lU specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name 
£ varieties qf florists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias , Geraniums, 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
v specialist who has the means qf comparison at hand. Any 
e* communication respecting plaids or flowers sent to navis 
,n should always accompany the parcel. 

10565.—Vines In verandah.—I have Just finished 
ts a glass verandah against our house, facing due south, with 
ie no shade, 10 feet wide by 33 feet long, covering a border 
and walk, and jutting out 3 feet over another border 
ie which forms a bank 10 feet wide 2 feet above the level of 
'O the walk. I wish to put three Vines underneath, two 
black and one white. The raised border in which the 
Vines must be planted is of clay, the east end being of 
« rather lighter soil. I should bo glad to know the best 
in kinds to have, and the best way and time to plant; 
d whether the border will require to be dug out and 
. bricked, and what kind of soil to fill up with. — Ve- 

* RANDAH. 

f 10566.—Tuberoses not flowering.— I have a 

quantity of Tuberoses in pots that never flowered. I 
potted them last November in good loam and sand, put¬ 
ting five bulbs in a 6-inch pot, and covering them up 
with coal ashes against a north wall, leaving them till 
u the grass was an inch high, when I placed them in about 
50° of heat on a shelf near the glass; they grew all to 
lD grass, and a lot of small bulbs formed on the main stems. 
^ Should I have removed all the grass away around the 
main stem ? They were flooded with water whilepluneed 
>e for four days; would that affect the flowering ?—II. K. 
l $ 10667.—Violets in winter.—I have read with in- 

" terest the remarks on Violets in winter by “ Gardener,” 
but he gives no directions as to clearing the plants of 
runners. If the divided clumps are planted in well 
manured ground, I find they abound in strong foliage 
and runners, and my gardener only takes off the runners 
sparingly, as he says they,produce the flowers. This is 
1 » certainly true, but the flowers are very small, though 
7 abundant. I shall be glad to know what is best tol>e 
18 done ?—G. H. 
o 

e 105CS.— Hoya bella.—I have Just received a plant of 
[. the above from India, two stems rooted in an 8-inch pot, 

; now in good condition. I am told this is a valuable 
variety, and as I know nothing of its treatment, I should 
h be glad of a few hints upon its management. When 
e should I repot and in what compost ? The present soil is 
•. like emery powder In appearance and touch. I have a 
e cold greenhouse, with radiator to keep out damp and 
a frost. If this temperature is not high enough, can 1 hope 
to keep it in a warm room ?—J. T. F. 

r 10569.—Plants for gas-llghted rooms.— I should 

p be obliged if any of your readers could tell me whether 
r there are any flowering plants that will flourish in rooms 
t where gas is burnt. It is a great deprivation that lovers 
s of flowers are subjected to in houses where gas la burnt 
to give light, that plants exposed to It generally fade and 
i. wither away. I should be glad to know whether there 
3 are any flowering plants, or plants of any kind, that are 
; exceptions to this rule.—C andour. 


10570.— Improving a lawn —I wish to know how 
to obtain a well covered lawn with fine Grass. A year 
ago (last winter) I limed the lawn well, and in spring 
liberally covered it with stable manure, which, after 
lying on about two months, was raked off. The Grass 
grows rather coarse, particularly in some places, ana the 
soil is only thinly covered. Daisies and other weeds grow 
freely, and I have mowed with the machine once a week 
and rolled occasionally. The soil is light.—J. H. 

10571.—Drawing water from a well.—Can any 
one advise me as to the best and cheapest way of having 
water brought from a well to the house, distance eighty 
yards ; also probable cost? The water nearer the house 
is red and quite unfit for use, though the near well is 
very deep, and oftentimes the supply falls, whereas the 
well eighty yards distant is always plentiful and 
good.—C onstant reader. 

10572.—Sarracenia purpurea.—Will someone be 
so good as to give me a few hints on the treatment of 
this plant ? I got it the other day and it had no foliage, 
only a half decayed pitcher, and round the base of it was 
some dead Sphagnum Moss. Should this be watered and 
treated like a cool Orchid! Any hints will oblige.— 
M. C. C. 

10573.—Forcing Asparagus and Tomatoes.— 
Would any reader kindly inform me as to the proper 
time to take up Asparagus for forcing? How should it 
be forced if in a dark house with heat, should it be 
planted deep, and which is the best kind of soil ? Also 
when Is the time to start forcing TomatoeB, and are they 
best from seed ?—J. A. 8. G. 

10574.—Leaves of plants spotted.—Most of the 
Geranium leaves in our greenhouse are spotted ; the 
house seems thoroughly dry, having been recently re¬ 
paired ; floor, tiles on cement; heated by hot water. The 
bloom of moat plants seems healthy, but no foliage is 
right, Primulas, Musk, <fcc., being all affected. Can >ou 
assist me as to reason ?—Ignoramus. 

10676.—Weeds In walks —I have recently laid 
all my garden walks with calcined red ashes, but still 
the grass and weeds will grow through. Can anyone tell 
me how I can kill the vegetation on the walks? Are 
there no chemicals that will effectually destroy it? If 
so, I should be glad to know what they are.—B rierlkv 
Hill. 

10676.-Fruit for market.-Will B ome reader 
kindly inform me which are the best kinds of fruit to 
plant in an orchard for market, also the names of the 
fruit that makes the best cider and perry ? I once read 
in a paper that farmers should aim at getting sorts that 
do not blossom too early, as the frost is apt to cut off 
early blossoms.—C onstant Reader. 

10577.—Plants for heated room.—I have nogreen¬ 
house. Can I grow ordinary greenhouse flowers in a 
room heated by a “Tortoise” stove? I have a stage 
before a good window, 5 feet wide by 4 feet high, aspect 
south-west. Will Passion flowers grow and flower on the 
wall at the side of room ?— M. G. 

10578.—Bouvardia leaves shrivelling.—Will 
someone kindly tell me why some of the leaves of my 
Bouvardias become brown and shrivelled up ? The plants 
are flowering beautifully and the blooms are quite 
perfect, but the shrivelled leaves give the plants an 
unsightly appearance.—F. 

10579.—Oil for heating. —Which Is the most heat- 
producing oil suitable for a greenhouse with a mixed 
collection of plants therein ? I have used paraffin oil 
hitherto, but I do not And the heat given so great as to 
turn the leaves of my plants black, as mentioned by 
“ G. B. F." in query 10490.—C. Juno. 

10680.—Plants for profit.—Could any reader sug¬ 
gest to me some plants that could be profitably grown 
in the warmer parts of New Zealand other than the 
ordinary cereals, <fcc., or name some book treating on 
the subject ?—J. R. L. 

10581.—Camellias not blooming.—I have several 
Camellias planted in a bed in a cool greenhouse, and 
they keep growing instead of setting their buds. Instruc¬ 
tions how to treat them will oblige. — Quite a Be¬ 
ginner. 

10582.—Geranium or Pelargonium.—It is very 
usual amongst amateurs, and eveu in oooks and papers 
to call the more familiar sorts of Pelargoniums Gernniums’ 
Can anyone explain why it is done, and when the error 
was generally adopted ?—Troth. 

10533.—Frame for Calceolarias.—I am making a 
frame for Calceolarias. Would someone tell me what 
sort of manure and soil I ought to put at the bottom of 
the frame, and if I should put the plants in It at once ?— 
W. A. D. 

10584.—Cutting down Rosea.—I have a Glolre 
de Dijon Rose, which has grown so rampant above and 
so bare below that I have decided to cut it down to 
where the bud was put in ; is it best to do it this autumn, 
or to wait till spring ?—Rose. 

10685.—Carnations not blooming.—I have a lot 
of plants of the Old Scarlet and Pink Clove Carnations 
I and not one in forty has bloomed ; they are all good! 
strong roots, two years old. What Is the cause and the 
remedy?—J. W. T. 

19586.—Old Yew trees —Will some reader please 
inform me if it would be safe to cut within 4 feet of the 
stems of Yew trees between seventy and ninety years 
old, and what is the proper time of year to prune them ? 
—J. W. W. 

10587.—Worms in lawns.—Will some reader kindly 
Inform me by what means 1 can best g?t rid of worms 
in my lawn? Underneath the turf there is a layer of 
good soil, and under that a layer of good manure. The 
lawn has been laid down eighteen months.—A micus. 

10588.—Solanums not fruiting.—I shall be glad 
to know how to get berries on Solanums ; they flower well 
and then the flowers drop off. They are in a cool green¬ 
house.—E. Pollard. 

10589. — Large Beans and Peas.— I should feel 
obliged to any reader for the names of four dwaif Beans, 
two Runner Beans, four Broad Beans, and four Peas 
bearing the lat est s ml longest podi.— J, Waiei;r, 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Nov. 3, 1883. 


10590.— Abutllon blooms falling. —Will anyone 
inform me how to prevent Abutllon flowers from falling 
olf before they have formed aeed pods 7 The plants seem 
healthy and flower well.—J uvenile daisy. 

10591.—Tea trees.— Can any reader give me informa¬ 
tion about Chinese or Indian Tea trees, and say if any 
work Is published treating of their cultivation, and the 
process of picking, drying, Ac. ?—Creole. 

10592.—Sowing Leeks.—When is the best time to 
s><v leek seed to produce leeks for exhibition, also how 
should it be sown ? What kinds are best for exhibition ! 
— AMATEUR. 

10593 .—Mushroom beds.— Is peat-moss litter after 
being used for horses suitable material to mix with 
stable sweepings and droppings for making a Mushroom 
bed ’-THE 1INK3. 

10594.—Planting Lemon pips.— When is the right 


SUBSCRIBER. 

10595.—Clematis' Jackmannl.—Should Clematis 
Jackmsnni be cut down ? I bought two plants a month 
ngo about 3 feet high.—J. S. 11. 

10590 .—Food for green frogs.—What should green 
frogs be fed on in the winter, when flies are not to he 
obtained 7—K. W. 

10597. Pears cracking.—Whnt is the cause of 
Tears cracking 7—A. S. F. 


DISEASES OF BEES. 

When bees are fed late in the autumn, and cold 
weather sets in before they have sealed their 
stores, they are then unable to produce wax for 
the capping of the cells; the food therefore 
remains unsealed, and the unevaporated moisture 
therefrom condenses on the combs, and the con¬ 
sumption by the bees of this watery food is likely 
to produce dysentry, hence the importance of 
feeding early in the autumn. Weak stocks are 
also subject to this disease from their being 
obliged to consume an excessive quantity of 
honey in order to keep up the necessary heat 
within the hive. This may be obviated, how¬ 
ever, by making all stocks strong for wintering, 
by joining two or more weak colonies. Dampness 
in the hive from improper ventilation also 
encourages dysentry. When a stock is found to 
be suffering from this disease, it should be 
removed to a clean, dry hive, the soiled combs 
exchanged for clean ones, and the bees fed upon 
candy. The size of the hive should also be con¬ 
tracted by the division boards to the number of 
frames covered by the bees, and the hive well 
protected from cold and wet. The worst disease 
bees suffer from is foul brood. It appears to be 
caused by the brood (larva:) becoming chilled, 
and perishing in the cells, and the bees being 
unable to remove them from the cells, they 
become a putrid mass, spreading infection 
around. Foul brood spreads very rapidly, so 
that in one season a whole neighbourhood may 
become infected with it. Yet it is a disease of the 
brood only, and does not affect the mature bees ; 
nevertheless, a stock attacked by this disease 
rapidly dwindles and dies out from its inability 
to rear brood. Other bees pilfer their honey, and 
thus spread the infection. The lids of cells con¬ 
taining healthy brood are slightly raised, those 
containing foul brood are covered with lids 
slightly concave and pierced. They appear 
singly on the brood combs, and are of a dark 
colour. Hives containing old combs appear to 
be more liable to this disease than those con¬ 
taining new, clean comb; it is well, there¬ 
fore, occasionally to examine hives of old 
combs, to see that they are free from 

diseased brood. On its appearance the queen 
should be removed, and all cells con¬ 

taining foul-brood uncapped and sprayed with 
salicylic acid solution in the following propor¬ 
tions : salicylic acid one ounce, soda borax one 
ounce, water four pints. The combs and bees 
should be then placed in a fresh hive which has 
previously been washed with the above eolation, 
the most diseased parts of the comb being first 
cut away. Much trouble will be experienced in 
banishing this disease from the apiary, if early 
remedial measures be not taken, for if allowed 
from neglect to assume its worst type, the only 
alternative will be to remove the bees, joining 
them to another colony, or, treating them as 
a swarm, destroy the combs, and scald and 
thoroughly cleanse the hive, frames, floor-board, 
&c., painting them over with salicylic solution, 
brushing it well into all crevices. But to ensure 
the perfect eradication of a disease of so formid- 
ablea character, threateningas itdoes thedestruc- 
tion of the whole of the stocks in the apiary, 
every possible endeavour should be taken to stamp 
it out thoronghljrt* its first appearance, to 


hljrtm its first appear 

CjOogle 


insure which, the total destruction of all the 
combs in the hive is to be recommended, and 
the hive scalded with boiling water in every 
part, and when dry limewashed thoroughly 
inside and out, omitting no crack or crevice, 
when it can be used again after standing a time. 
Every implement used while operating, as well 
as the hands, should be thoroughly disinfected 
by washing in a solution of salicylic acid made 
by dissolving a spoonful in a quart of boiling 
water, with the addition of a pinch of powdered 
borax, and used cold. In feeding the bees from 
a diseased hive, the solution may be added to 
every 12 or 15 pounds of sugar boiled down. If 
it is wished to feed with honey from the infected 
combs, it should be first boiled for a short time, 
adding salicylic acid. It should be remembered 
that feeding with syrup during winter is very 
injurious to them, for if they store it in their 
cells they cannot seal it over. The only safe 
food that can then be given is sugar-cake, which 
should be placed either between or on the top 
of the frames, and over the bees, and covered 
with the quilt. When properly made it will not 
dissolve faster than the bees can take it. Not 
more than half a pound should be given a time; 

Boxrvorth. S. S. G. 

Slugs. — Rock and herbaceous plants are 
more or less attacked at this season of the year 
by slugs; traps for them should, therefore, be 
placed about the garden. Pieces of young 
Cabbage leaves make very good traps if placed 
in the afternoon between the plants. With a 
lantern in the evening one may find them busily 
feeding upon the Cabbage leaves, off which they 
may be with ease collected and dropped into 
some small vessel containing a little salt water. 
In this way I caught over 1700 in two nights.— 
D. H. 

Call ducks.— T. IF.—The only establishments where 
you will be likely to procure any of these birds are 
those of Messrs. Fowler, PrebendalFarm, Aylesbury; and 
Messrs. Bailey, 113, Mount Street, London.—A ndalusian. 

Savoury pudding.—Take four ounces of bread¬ 
crumbs soaked in one pint of boiling milk, and one table¬ 
spoonful of oatmeal, two or three onions boiled and 
chopped, savoury herbs, such as sage, thyme, &c., to 
flavour, one tablespoonful chopped suet, salt and pepper, 
two eggs well beaten. Mix all together and put in a 
buttered tin. Bake three-quarters of an hour, cut in 
pieces, and serve.—E lsie. 

Raspberries and Primroses. — Wo gathered 
yesterday iu our garden (clay soil) about a pint of fine 
Raspberries, and many more are ripening. Primroses 
are also in flower here. We should be glad to know if 
this is nnusual in October.—H. Tidswell, New Barnet, 
Herts. 

■ J 

A LADY wishes to sell for a charity fine roots 
of IriB reticulata at 5s. 6d. a doz.; also acilla sibirica, 
lOd. per doz., 6s. per 100.— Mrs. KIRKPATRICK, Dona- 
comper. Celbridge, Ireland. 

PHRYSANTHEMUMS, showing bloom, fine 
U plants, 9s. to 18s. per dozen ; Cyclamen in bloom, 9d. 
each; Libonia pemhosiana, a very pretty flowering plant, now 
coming into bloom, 9d. each; Daisies in variety, double 
Wallflowers, Brompton,Intermediate, and Midlothian Stocks, 
9d. per doz.; Pansies, in full bloom. Is. doz.: flue strong 
dwarf Roses, 9a. doz.—U. HAIN, White CroBa Street, Here¬ 
ford. 

HARDY PLANTS FROM IRELAND, 

Per parcels post, cash prices free. 

Daisies (double). Blood-red, Snowball, and Rosy Gem, 

in equal portions., ? 9 

Myosotis disaitiflora, well known, nch blue, 100,8s.; doz., 1 6 
Polyanthus, own stock of gold-laced and fancy sorts, 

per 100,10s. ; per doz., 1 6 
Primrose, own stock, double, pure yellow, dozen ..40 
Ranunculus bulbosus (speuiosus) fl.-pl., double yellow; 

the largest variety of cultivated Buttercups, each .. 0 9 
Rose Campion (Agrostenuna), deep blood-red, 3 for .. 10 
Anemono japouica Honorine Jobert. See Gardening ; 

Illustrated . • • doz. 5 0 I 

Aquilcgia, many sorts, my own selection, per doz. 4 0 | 
Aster (herbaceous) Madame Soyneuse. pink, 3 for 1 6 
Campanula persicifolia semi-plena alba, beautiful pure 

white Bellflower, per dozen .. .. .. .. 4 0 

Campanula persicifolia il.-pl. alba, lovely double form, 

flowers like a Gardenia, each, Cd.; dozen .. ..40 

Canterbury Bells, white frilled, lilac frilled (new), and 
double rose, splendid plants, per dozen. Is. 3d. ; 100, 8 0 

Catananche coorulea, blue and white separate, blooms 

as good a? a Cornflower, and perennial, dozen ..26 
Chelone barbata coccinca, rich deep scarlet Pentste- 

mon-like bloom, 3 plants.16 

Clove, the old-fashioned rich velvety crimson Carnation, 

delivery in November, 3 plants .. .. •• .,2 0 

Carnation, finest mixed seedlings, 15 to the dozen, war¬ 
ranted south of France seed, per dozen .. ..40 

Carnation the scarlet “Grenadin," in Beedling plants, 

15 to the dozen .per dozen 5 0 

Carnation from seed, the dwarf early-flowering Vienna 

strain, 15 to the dozen, per dozen .3 6 

Coreopsis lanceolata, magnificent in autumn, 3 plants .. 2 0 
Digitalis gloxinioides (Foxglove), most beautiful planted 

in wood-walkB Ac., per 100.7 0 

Primula amcena grandiflora, rich lovely pink, per dozen 2 6 
Sweet William (double white) The Bride, for bouquets 
and wreaths and all cutting purposes where white 
flowers are used; per 100,12s. Cd. .. ..dozen 2 0 
Fifty plantt will be serif at the rate per 100. 

HARTLAND’S 

01D ESTABLISHED SEED WAREHOUSE, CORK. 


inf! FINE PLANTS, consisting of Wall- 

IvU flowers, Antirrhinums, Forget-me-nots, Bilene, 
Canterbury Bells, Carnations, Ac., r free, 3s., specially recom¬ 
mended.—O. SHILLING, Florist. Ac., Wincnfl eld , Hants, 

A LL THE PLANTS and bnlbB advertised last 
aj. week still supplied — O. SHILLING, Seedsman, Winch- 
field, Hants. 

TAPANE8E EVERGREEN PRIVET,splendid 

C for hedges. Ac., strong, 2 ft high, Gs. per 100, packed.— C. 
SHILLING, Nurseries, Winchfield. Hants. 


r TWENTY-FIVE fine Evergreen and Flowering 
-1- Shrubs in great variety from 2 ft. to 4 ft. high for 7b. 6d, 
packed on rail. — C. SHILLING, Nurseries, Winchfield, 
Hants. _ 

QJ COLLECTION OFBULBS.-Secure 

vJut vlHI« at once; enormous demand; contains 12 
splendid Hyacinths, 24 Tulips, 50 Crocus, 25 Snowdrops, 6 
Narcissus, and 6 Anemones, carriage free. 5s. 9fL: half 
quantity, 3s.. wonderful value.—C. SHILLING. Seedsman, 
Winchfield, Hants._ 

7q fid COLLECTION of FRUIT TREES 

/ O# ULl» contains two Apples, one Pear, one Plum, 
one Cherry, six Gooseberries, six Currants, and twelve Rasp¬ 
berries, carefully packed, fine BtroDg fruitiDg trees, best sorts. 
—C . SHI LLING, Nurserie s. Winchfield, Han to. _ 

EXHIBITION ROSES, extra large strong 
XJ dwarfs, free, 8s. 6d. doz. (first twelre below. 8s.); 2Ss. per 
60; 60s. per 100, by return; only finest exhibition varieties, 
such as A. Alexieff, Baron Rothschild, C. Margottin, E. Ap- 
pert, Gen. Jacqueminot, J. Margottin, L Odier, Mdlle. A. 
Wood, Mrs Boncenne. P. Neion, J. Hopper. Paxton, Gloire 
de Dijon, Duke of.Kdinburgh, Emperor du Maroc, La France, 
Sen. Vaisse, Ac.. NO varB ; also Moss in rare. Postal orders. 
—H. 8CHMELZER & CO., 71, Waterloo Street. Glasgow. 

OP5LE aTLILYIIFTHE VALLEY, immense 

D exhibit; Berlin crowns. 6s. 6d per 100 ; Spiral japonic*, 
extra large clumps, 20s. per 100.— H. 8CHMELZER A CO., 
71, Waterloo Street, Glapgow. 

1 nn DUTCH FLOWER ROoTS lor 3s., viz., 

LVyVJ Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, Crocus, Anemones, 
Aconites, Ac., delivered.—J. BYLVK8TBR. Idle, Bradford . 

ONLY ‘is. 6d., Free.—Three each of following 
U —Primula. Oaloeolaria, Cineraria, Begonia, Tulips, and 
Crocus —J. SYLVESTER. Idle, Bradford. 

/CALCEOLARIAS, Primulas, Cinerarias, good 
VJ plants of Carter's, CannelTa and Daniels' choicest strains, 
2s. dozen. Begonias, winter-flowering, large plants, 3s, 6d. 
dozen ; smaller, 2s.; all free.—J. SYLVESTER, Idle, Brad¬ 
ford_ 

1 Q EXHIBITION HYACINTHS, 5i. 6d.; 6, 

JL hJ 3s., delivered. Tulips, mixed, 4 b. 6d. per 100, 9d. dozen. 
Crocus, Is. 6d. 100. Aconites, 2s. 6d. 100.—-J. SYLVESTER, 
I die , Bra dford._ 

EXHIBITION TU LIPS. — These beautiful 

Ll flowers must be planted at once; cannot be supplied 
after November. Bacchus, Cottage Maid, Pottebakker (scarlet, 
white, and yellow) Robs Mundi (single), Ac., Is. 3d dozen. Ss. 
100; blue Celeste, Due Van Thol. La Candeur. Rex Bubroxuzn. 
Ac., double, Is. dozen, 6s. 100; dwarf Due Van Thol, Is. 3d. 
dozen, 8s. 100; my selection, named, 24, 2 b. ; 50, 3s. 6d.; 100, 
R B. 6d. ; all free.—J. BYLVKSTER, Idle, Bradford. _ 

OARNATIONS, Picotees, Picks, Carter's, 
Cant ell's, and Dodwell's finest strains, 2s. dozen ; 12 of 
each, 5s.; all large plants, free. — J. SYLVESTER, Idle, 

B radfor d._ 

rjNLY 5s., Free.—20 each of following : Tulips, 

W Crocus, winter Aconites, Anemones, Ranunculus, Nar¬ 
cissus, and Wallflowers : w arranted satisfactory.—J. 6YL- 

VESTER , Idle, Bradford. _ 

DOUVARDIAS, choice varieties, mixed, 
D chiefly white, well-rooted plants, 3e. 6d. per dozen.— 
J. LOOMEB, Whittlesey, near Peterborough. _ 

piNERARIAS, single and double, mixed, 

VJ large-flowered choice strains. 12 for la. 3d., 5s. 100. ready 
for!5-inch pots.—J. LOOME8, F.R.H.S., Whittlesey, near 
Peterborough. _ 

TIBONIA FLORIBUNDA, winter flower* 
Ll greenhouse or window plant. 2 for la.; white Mar* 
guerites, 4 for Is. — J. LOOMEB, W hi ttlesey, Petercoroug h. 

DANSIES, choice strains, English, show and 
L fancy. Belgian, and French, also International small 
seedlings, 50 for Is., post free.—J. LOOMES, The Nurseries, 
Whittlesey. __ 

pHOICE PELARGONIUMS.—Dr. Masters. 

Duchess of Bedford, Duchess of Edinburgh, Queen 
Victoria, Kingston Beauty, Prince of Wales. La Patna, 
Vestres, Captain Raikes, Beauty of Oxton, Maid of Kent, 
William Bull, Fire King, Prince of Pelargoniums, La 
PeyTouse. Marie Lemoiue, and others ; well-rooted plants; 
my selection, to name. 4a. 6d. per dozen; purchaser’s selection, 
5s.; cleau and healthy.—JAMES LOOMES, The Nurseries, 
Whittlesey, Peterborough. __ 

OH non anemone JAPON1CA alba 

OVjvvU and ROSKA, strong flowering plants, ICe. 
100, 2s. 6d. dozen ; 4 sample plants, Is., free. 

10,000 Pansies Cloth of Gold, the moat perpetual bloomer, 
and best bedding variety; very fine healthy plants that will 
divide. 12s. 6d. 100, 2s. dozen, 4 sample plants. Is., free. 

Pyrethrums, double summer flowering, Rhowy colours and 
very strong plants, 12, 4s.; 6. 2a. 6d., free. 

Geurn ooccineum, free blooming, bright double scarlet, 
and quite hardy, very strong plants, 3a. dozen ; 3 sample 
plants, Is., free. 

Carnations, from an excellent strain of early double 
flowering large plants, 4s. 6d. dozen ; 3 sample plants, la. Cd.. 
free 

HENRY GODFREY. Nurseryman, Stou rb ridg e. 


lUTUSHROOM SPAWN, best quality, 4a. (3d. 

per bushel of 20 bricks; two bricks post free for la. 
with notes on culture; trade price very low.—J. PRIOR, 
Huabury Lane. W alton on Tha mes.__[7652 

QTOVE PIPING ! STOVE PIPING !— Strong 

iron piping, 3d. per foot.—TIPPETTS A CO., Tin-plate 
Workers, Aston, Birmingham. __ 

S TOVES.—ECLIPSE OIL STOVE (patent) 

burns 30 hours, without attention, for24d. ; no smoke or 
smell whatever: 7s. 6<L packed.—TIPPETTS k CO , Aston, 
Birmingham. 

I? VERY MAN HIS OWN TINKER.-Solder- 

Li ing Tools with accessories free by parcels post, la. 90. 
—TIPPETTS St CO., Aston, Birmingham. [7580 













GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. V. NOVEMBER 10, 1883. No. 244. 


HOUSE AND WINDOW GARDENING. 

NOTES ON WINDOW GARDENING. 
Chill November warns us that it ia time to look 
to our window boxes, and to make preparations 
for some plant life to cheer the dull days of 
winter. Has anyone tried to grow the 

Winter-flowering Heath 
(Erica herbacea) in a window box ? It is some¬ 
times known as E. carnea, but in spite of the 
double name, the plants vary little save in the 
colour of their flowers, which put on a deeper 
tint in the form of E. herbacea than in that of 
E. carnea. There is, besides, a pure white 
variety which is very pretty, but less common, 
and likely also to be less vigorous than the 
type. These can be obtained at this season with 
their buds well set. Healthy plants procured 
from a nursery where they are made a speciality 
would be likely to answer best, and if turned 
out of pots would take no harm by transplant¬ 
ing. There is no reason why this charming 
Heath should not succeed outside a window, and 
as it unites in itself all the best qualities of a 
good winter-flowering plant, it is well worth a 
trial. It is hardy—it is evergreen and dwarf— 
it lasts for many weeks in blossom—and its up¬ 
standing spikes of crisp pink flowers defy wind 
and weather. Lastly, it gives as little trouble to 
cultivate as it is possiblefor any plant to give, and 
few, moreover, furnish greater interest in daily 
watching while they put on their rosy flush of 
greeting to welcome the very first whisper of 
the glad voice of spring. The one thing that 
this early-managed Heath does ask for, is 
to be left alone, as it is impatient of removal; 
therefore to grow it successfully it must 
be permanently established. To provide for 
this it should be grown in a movable box of 
galvanised iron or zinc, just large enough to fit 
into the more ornamental one fixed to the win¬ 
dow-sill. By having strong wire handles at 
each end, this inner box can be easily lifted in 
or out, when necessary; and, once planted, a 
very moderate share of attention during the 
rammer months would suffice to keep the plants 
in a flourishing condition for several years. A 
good layer of sherds broken rather fine, and 
above them laid some rough peat well pulled to 
pieces, will sufficiently prevent the soil being 
washed down and choking the drainage. Heaths 
are generally grown in a soil composed entirely 
of sandy peat, but the hardy species, of which E. 
herbacea is one, do better in a compost with 
which a considerable proportion of any good 
loam that is free from chalk or lime is inter¬ 
mixed. In planting, the soil should be pressed 
as firmly as possible about the roots, and may 
even be rammed down hard with advantage, due 
care being taken not to injure the delicate fibres 
in the operation. This Heath possesses one ad¬ 
vantage, viz., that at no time of year is it un¬ 
sightly. As soon as the bloom is past, each top 
must be carefully snipped off with a pair of 
scissors. In the open border, clipping with a 
pair of garden shears is considered treatment 
good enough for so hardy a subject; but where 
the symmetry of the plant is of importance, as it 
certainly would be when grown in a window- 
box, such light labour need not be grudged. The 
young growth begins before the blossom is 
well over, so that the shape of the plants de¬ 
pends entirely upon the careful removal of the 
dead flower-stems as soon as possible. Judicious 
pruning will also prevent a too-Btraggling growth 
of the main branches. On the perfecting of the 
yonng spring growth depends also the bloom for 
the following winter. 

****** 

The Bummer treatment of the Heath, when its 
its beauty is over for the season, is simple 
enough. As soon as it is removed from the win¬ 
dow it should be placed in as favourable a posi¬ 
tion as possible under the circumstances, where 
it can have light and air, with sunshine, for a 
part of each day. A suitable place for summer 
quarters would not be difficult to find in almost 
any area or back court, or small window bal¬ 
cony. Throughout the summer it will be of the 
greatest importance not to neglect watering. For 
though E. herbacea asks no attention whatever 

Digitized by GOUglC 


in this way when growing in the open border, 
yet under the altered condition of the cramping 
of its roots in a narrow box, it must have just so 
much care bestowed upon it, as to prevent Us 
becoming baked and dust-dried, which would 
inevitably seal its fate. A thorough watering 
and syriDging every few days, particularly during 
dry scorching weather, would keep the leaves 
free from smoke and dust and the roots cool and 
moist. In towns it is not always easy to get 
rain water for the watering of plants, but if pos¬ 
sible it should always be used. When it is neces¬ 
sary to use that which is supplied by the water 
companies, it is always desirable to expose it to 
the sun and air in an open vessel for some time 
before watering plants with it. This will also 
regulate the temperature of the water, which 
should never be given in a cold state. More 
plants are chilled to death by this means than 
is commonly supposed. 

The Double Ranunculus. 

The strong growing varieties of double Ra¬ 
nunculus have been successfully cultivated in a 
London window', and as time goes on and the 
love of gardening increases, we shall hear of 
many more of such successes. Good combina¬ 
tions may sometimes be made, and possess this 
advantage : that plants may be chosen to give a 
succession of flowers, especially where bulbs are 
used, but it is very easy to make mistakes in 
grouping. The effect of a mass of one good 
plant like the dwarf Heath now recommended 
ia very telling, and better from its very simplicity 
than a more ambitious mixture. Those who wish 
to grow the Ranunculus should plant the dry, 
claw-like tnbers about the end of February. It 
is not very easy to keep these same tubers during 
their resting time—full seven months—without 
a dty, airy place for storing them. Therefore, 
the inexperienced window gardener would do 
well to bespeak his roots in good time in the 
autumn, i.e., during October, and, making 
friends with the nurseryman who supplies them, 
to ask the favour of storage until planting time 
comes round. The day before planting the tubers 
should be soaked to cause them to swell, other¬ 
wise they are apt to push out of the ground. It 
is also more easy when they are plump with 
moisture to see any decayed or decaying parts, 
which should be cut away ; but great care must 
be taken not to break off any healthy claw, 
which would involve just so much loss to the 
vigour of the plant. To prepare the soil is an 
important matter. First of all, thorough drainage 
must be ensured, and next above it should be 
placed pieces of turf. The soil best suited to the 
Ranunculus is a good, sustaining turfy loam, 
such as is found in spots where Buttercups 
naturally grow. In the country it is easy enough 
to obtain this—making a little heap in some 
corner where it may become thoroughly decom¬ 
posed before it is wanted for use. But in towns 
we can happily have recourse once more to the 
nursery’, where small quantities of suitable soils 
for every purpose may readily be obtained. In 
preparing the box, the soil must bo made as firm 
as it is possible to make it. This is a great point 
in the successful culture of the Ranunculus. 
The tubers may then be planted with a layer of 
sharp sand to surround them, 2 inches apart, 
and if in a double row, I inches may be allowed 
between the rows. Not more than IA inches of 
soil should be placed above them, as the Ranun¬ 
culus does not succeed with deep planting. 
With such treatment to begin with, and ordi¬ 
nary care and attention during growth, the culti¬ 
vator should be rewarded with lovely bright 
flowers during May and early June. In days 
of yore the Ranunculus was a special favourite 
with old-fashioned gardeners. The splendid 
collections exhibited in recent years at 
South Kensington, go far to prove that the old 
taste is happily reviving. For culture in an 
unlieated greenhouse—which may be considered 
as one remove above window gardening—these 
charming flowers, with their endless variety of 
tints of scarlet and gold and creamy white, 
tipped and edged, speckled and striped, suggest 
a speciality which it would be well not to 
neglect. It is only possible here to touch upon 
points of culture, but the subject is full of interest. 


Window Boxes. 

While on the subject of window-gardening, let 
a word be added as to the boxes themselves. In 
walking through the squares and principal 
streets of any large city, the eye is irresistibly 
attracted by the plants in the windows. In some 
houses it is evident that the owners value the 
flowers for their own sake; but it seems to be 
very much the fashion to make the boxes the 
chief point of consideration. Where this is the 
case, these receptacles are made of gaudy tiles, 
or expensive bright-coloured ware, which accord 
so ill with any kind of vegetation that the un¬ 
suitability forces itself upon the notice of the 
mere passer-by. Probably if the effect conld be 
reen as easily from within as from without, the 
incongruity would soon be remedied. In the 
windows of a fine town house, not long ago, I 
saw a number of evergreens-fortunately they 
were not flowering plants—growing in blue, 
green, and yellow jars of some kind of ware, 
near akin to that known as valauris, but much 
brighter in colour. These jars were elegant in 
form, beautiful as examples of pottery, and no 
doubt very costly, but, as it seemed to me, wholly 
unsuited to the purpose for which they were em¬ 
ployed. A nearer approach to good taste was 
made in another window not far distant, in 
which brown terra-cotta to represent bark was 
used. But in this case there was a poor attempt 
at an imitation of red stains of lichen on the 
bark, which was too unnatural not to spoil the 
effect to the critical eye. Rustic work in terra¬ 
cotta is by no means ugly, if it is plain and sim¬ 
ple ; but all receptacles, whether for growing 
plants or for out flowers, should be as unob¬ 
trusive as possible. In choosing window-boxes, 
therefore, it is well to remember that very sim¬ 
ple dark-coloured wood or ware will best har¬ 
monise with green leaves and bright flowers; 
for surely the casket should always be subordi¬ 
nate to the precious thing contained within it. 

Those who really care to have their windows 
bright with flowers throughout the year, will 
find it extremely useful to have a succes¬ 
sion of the plain zinc lining-boxes, referred 
to above. The bottom of such boxes 
should be made of perforated zinc to 
assist the drainage, a most important point in 
successful window gardening, and especially so 
in outside boxes, which must needs get frequent 
soakings during winter storms. A few corks of 
equal height placed at the bottom of the orna¬ 
mental box, for the inner one to rest upon will 
provide for a space being left between the two, 
so that no unnecessary moisture need stagnate 
at the roots of the plants. Many people prefer 
to take no trouble about it, and if they care to 
have window boxes at all, leave them to be 
filled and renewed by a nurseryman. But there 
are some to whom the tending of a few flowers 
gives infinite pleasure. There must always be 
greater difficulty in doing this in the smoky 
confined air of a town than in the country, but 
even these difficulties may be over-rated. At 
any rate, all things are easy to a willing mind, 
and it lias been wisely said “ that flowers only 
flonrish rightly in the garden ” (or the window) 
41 of one who loves them.” In such cases, avail¬ 
able space may be found for a second or even a 
third box to be getting ready to fill the vacant 
gap caused by the removal of that wliich has 
done its duty. For this purpose, many early 
spring flowers and bulbs might be pressed into 
the service by one who 44 loves ’’ them. Golden 
Daffodils and the chequered Fritillary, purple 
and white—scarlet Windflowers and early blue 
Forget-me-not — with Candytuft and white 
Saxifrages. There is no lack of suitable plants 
where careful hands are ready to tend them. A 
box might be charmingly filled with London 
Pride, especially if it could be encouraged to 
fall over the sides and throw upwards its paic 
pink spray of tiny speckled flowers. K. L. D. 


10550. — Plants for halls. — It is not 

stated if the place is heated to exclude frost, an 
if not only thoroughly hardy plants can be used. 
Very pretty baskets can be made up of the golden 
variegated, silver variegated, and plain-leaved 
Periwinkles, variegated and plain-leaved Ivies, 






404 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Nov. 10, 1883. 


and some of the British Ferns, which retain their 
foliage through the winter, notably the Welsh 
Polypody, a most elegant kind; Scolopendrium 
vnlgare crispum, S. v. undulatum, S. v. crista- 
tnm, S. v. digitatum, Aspleninm Adiantnm 
nigrum, the Lycopodiums, Moss, and Saxifraga 
sarmentosa. Line the baskets with fresh green 
Moss, keep the soil moist, and they will be fresh 
and bright all the winter.—J. C., By fleet. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


Lily of the Valley. —Few plants are more 
highly prized than Lily of the Valley, the 
flowers of which are favourites with every one, 
and deservedly so, as not only are they deliciously 
fragrant, but they are unrivalled for their 
matchless purity and for working up in bouquets. 
The common English kind is very lovely, but it 
is excelled by a variety from the Continent, 
which has much larger bells and longer and 
stouter flower-stalks, and is, therefore, a most 
desirable sort to grow. Those who would have 
beds of it and plenty for forcing another year 
will find the present a good time to start, as the 
roots being now on the move they may be pulled 
apart and increased to almost any extent. The 
best way to begin is to buy the large clumps, as 
these consist of numbers of leaf crowns, each of 
which may be made to form separate plants if 
broken off with a portion of the large root 
attached. One of the most suitable places to 
grow Lily of the Valley is between tall rows of 
Apple trees, as it is a plant that requires shade, 
it being found naturally in woods, where its 
creeping rhizomes spread along just under the 
surface of the ground after the manner of Spear 
Grass. Besides the requisite shade, another 
thing of great importance to the welfare of Lily 
of the Valley is the rich vegetable matter it is 
so fond of, which may be afforded it in the shape 
of decomposed leaves and hotbed manure, and a 
good dressing of these should be worked into the 
soil and well mixed up. The readiest way to do 
this and to plant Lily of the Valley is to mark 
out beds about a yard or so wide, throw out the 
top 3 inches of earth, and then dig in the manure 
and leaf-mould, when the plants may be laid 
regularly over the surface at a foot or so apart 
and covered by casting the soil over them that 
had been laid on one side. To act as a mulching 
and as a further protection and nourishment to 
the plants, it is a good plan to top-dress the bed 
with rotten manure and let it remain for the 
summer, by doing which a uniform degree of 
moisture is maintained and the ground kept cool 
and shaded. Treated in this way, Lily of the 
Valley grows very strong and develops fine 
crowns, and it is only from such as these that 
flowers can be had. Plants that have been used 
for forcing, although not so good as others, need 
not be discarded, as they will do for making 
beds, and Bhould be turned out of their pots 
with as little disturbance as possible. A capital 
situation to grow Lily of the Valley where only 
a few are required is close along the foot of a 
north wall, where, if the ground is prepared after 
the manner already described, it will be found 
to do wonderfully well.—S.D. 

Garden vases, baskets, &c.—In their 
proper place and in due proportion, vases and 
baskets are indispensable in flower flardens, but 
not nnfrcquently they are used out of all pro¬ 
portion to the style of the garden and its 
surroundings—then it is that they become 
objectionable. Perhaps the tendency to over¬ 
decorate in this way must be credited to the 
severely geometrical plan of many gardens, when 
to square with many meaningless angles, vases 
are placed on every available pedestal and 
corner. Happily, this style of gardening is 
giving place to a less formal one, in which vases 
and baskets can be used or not, according to the 
taste of the owner, and yet the garden appear 
perfect in either case. For a geometrical parterre 
they are needed to complete the design; at the 
same time, there is no reason whatever why they 
should be used so largely as to offend good 
taste. A pair of vases on the pedestal of steps, 
and others on the turf at the angles of the most 
formal divisions of the garden, to break the lines 
somewhat, are about all that are ever required, 
even in gardens of the most formal type. When, 
however, they are present in too large numbers, 
much may be done to remove this objection by 
planting in the vases plants of a drooping 
character indeed, yaqgB in every position look 

Digitized by (jOOglC 


most natural when planted with a mixture of 
plants, and when traders or climbers droop over 
the sides. Basket-formed beds are well suited 
for almost any position in pleasure grounds ; but 
the best of all spots is in an isolated recess on the 
turf, and next, as a central bed in a flower garden, 
where the surrounding beds are circles or ovals. 
We have one the extreme length of which is 
16 feet; it is 8 feet wide in the middle, and 
stands 2 feet 6 inches above the turf, and is made 
of Portland cement. The principal plants used in 
it are Marguerites, Pelargoniums, Heliotropes, 
Fuchsias, Marvel of Peru, Abutilons, Castor-oils, 
Cannas, Japanese Honeysuckles, and Tropteo- 
lums. More rustic forms of baskets than this 
would be better suited for isolation on the turf 
and distant parts of the pleasure grounds; and 
very good ones can be formed with wirework 
lined inside with zinc, also with barked oak 
boughs instead of wirework. For ferneries, rock 
gardens, and wild flower dells, the best forms of 
vases and baskets are those that are carved out 
of decayed tree stems, which, by a little manipu¬ 
lation in the matter of nailing on Oak boughs, 
can be made to look just as handsome as the 
specially made baskets. In baskets and vases of 
this kind permanent plants should be used, such 
as the variegated Ivies, Periwinkles, Japanese 
Honeysuckles, Clematises, and climbing Boses, 
space being reserved for flowering plants in 
summer and for small shrubs in winter. 

Catananche cserulea. —This is a hand¬ 
some border plant about 2 feet high, producing 
in summer fine bine flowers, which are most 



Blue-flowered border plant, Catananche crcrulea. 

attractive in a cut state. It is perfectly hardy, 

and soon becomes naturalised in a well-drained 
soil if left alone. It is easily raised from seed 
sown either in pots under glass, or in beds in 
the open air. 

Single Dahlias. —Perhaps the less expe¬ 
rienced in gardening amongst your readers may 
not know how very easily and well worth growing 
these beautiful summer and autumn-flowering 
plants are. If the seeds be sown about March 
or April, and placed in a gentle heat just suffi¬ 
cient to start them, the young plants will thrive 
rapidly, and may be either potted off singly or 
left for some little time in the seed pan, and then 
towards the end of June or beginning of July 
put out in the open air. In a few weeks they will 
reach the height of 3 feet or 1 feet, and yield an 
abundance of flowers. Their gay flowers are in¬ 
valuable for bouquets and all kinds of floral deco¬ 
ration, lastingas they do for many days in water. 
One great advantage gained in single Dahlias is 
the brilliant shades of scarlet, which we do not 
find in the double varieties. The quantity of 
flower produced even by seedlings their first year 
is most surprising. One may always *• cut and 
come again ” in this case.—W. A. G., Glenvar. 

Snapdragons (Antirrhinums).—These are 
by no means so difficult to manage as some 
would make us believe; indeed, elaborate direc¬ 
tions for their culture are simply discouraging. 


I have a grand bed of plants which bloomed 
early and finely nearly all through the summer. 
The seed was sown in a couple of shallow pans 
at the end of September in last year, and when 
the seedlings were up the pans still were kept 
in a cold greenhouso through the winter until 
the beginning of March, when the plants were 
pricked out into a cold frame, and about the 
middle of April were transferred into the open 
ground, strong, and having plenty of roots. 
They began blooming at the end of J une, and 
will flower to the end of the present month, 
having been relieved of their seed-spikes. An¬ 
other sowing made this autumn from new seed 
will give exactly the same results next year. 
As our winters are somewhat treacherous, it is 
well to treat both Antirrhinums and Pentste- 
mons as annuals, though it is better to sow at 
the end of September than in the spring.—A. 

Tyerman’a Groundsel (Senecio pulcher). 
—The merits of this plant as an autumn 
flower are greater than many imagine, and it 
may be readily increased. In order to obtain a 
stock of it, take up a strong plant in spring, or 
if in a pot turn it out, and remove all the strong 
roots ; these, if cut up into pieces about an inch 
long, dibbled into pans of sandy soil, and placed 
in a frame, will all start into growth, pushing 
np young leaves from the upper part and roots 
from the lower, and when sufficiently advanced 
they may be potted off and, after establishing 
themselves in small pots, planted out. I may 
add, however, that it is by no means necessary 
to limit the operation to the spring, although 
that is the best time; at other seasons more care 
is necessary, and besides, when struck early in 
the year they become established before winter, 
—T. 

10525.— Planting a small flower 

garden.—Besides the few flowers you have that 
would flower in spring, you ought to plant the 
following :—Scilla bifolia, 8. amoena, and S. 
sibirica, Chionodoxa lucillisc, and you do not 
mention Crocuses and Snowdrops, which cannot 
be omitted ; a few clumps of early flowering 
Tulips; also the followingDaffodils, Narcissus 
minor, N. pumilus, N. maximus, N. Horsefieldi, 
N. poeticus angustifolius, N. poeticus omatue, 
and the double form of poeticus. The dwarf 
flowering Phlox setacea in several varieties 
begins to flower in May, and is useful. Space 
ought to be found for a few of the English 
Spanish, and German Irises, the early flowering 
Anemones, such as A. blanda, A. apennina, A. 
fulgens, and several forms of A. nemorosa are 
very beautiful. There is not much flower in any 
gardens at present, but you ought to have the 
Michaelmas Daisies in flower now, such as Aster 
laevis, A. versicolor, and some others.—J. D. E. 

10530.—Iris Ksempferi.—Keep the plants 
in pots in a cold frame until the middle of 
March, then plant them out in a sunny position. 
The plants have not flowered because they are 
not yet large enough, and they must have 
liberal culture to enable them to do so. Stir the 
soil quite 1 foot deep before planting, and add 
plenty of well-rotted manure. If the natural 
soil is stiff, add a good portion of river sand or 
leaf-mould. They should have plenty of water 
when growing, but in winter they are apt to 
suffer from excess of moisture in combination 
with cold, and are better for having some 3 inches 
of ashes laid over the roots and round the crowns. 
—J. C. B. 

10552.—Edelweiss.—This is a perfectly 
hardy plant, and is quite at home in a suitable 
position in the open air. It must have good 
drainage, and thrives best on the highest posi¬ 
tion of a sunny rockery, and in light, sandy soils 
does well on the level as an ordinary border plant. 
Grown in pots and potted in sandy loam, it is 
sure to thrive if not in any way coddled, but 
placed where it gets full exposure to sun and 
air all through the summer. When in bloom it 
may, of course, be brought into the greenhouse 
or dwelling. A good place for it is a sunny 
window ledge.—J. C. B. 

10513.—'Transplanting Box.—This is a good time 
for removing it, as if done with care bo that the roots 
do not dry, they will take hold of the soli again before 
winter sets in. Tread the soil in round tile roots if of a 
light character.—J. C. B. 

10556.—Double Auriculas.—These are not com¬ 
mon amongst seedlings; perhaps one in a thousand may 
he double. Not one of the show varieties of tlds kind 
have been worth growing. Of course there is a double 
yellow, a double black, and some othera. Thejellow 
form is the best, and makes a good border llower.— 
J. D. K. 

I IR R A Mfl.f'H A MDA IflSM 


fci 

h 

t; 




Nov. 10, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


405 


BOSES. 

PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING ROHES. 

When to Plant. 

I have invariably found that November- 
planted Roses suffer less and do better than 
those moved at any other period; they make a 
little growth at the roots before spring sets in, 
and spring-planted ones never do that very 
freely. All Roses are the better for being trans¬ 
planted every three or four years. As in the case 
of other trees and bushes, we want healthy 
fibrous roots for them, and these can only be se¬ 
cured by transplanting. When left for a number 
of years without being moved, long roots are 
formed with few fibres, the top growth is 
“ scraggy," and the flowers never gain their 
original colour and size. I have Bhif ted old Roses 
from poor soil which were next to useless, but 
which, after being in good soil for a year or two, 
became as fine as the youngest and best cared- 
for plants. Still, X do not recommend very old, 
worn-out Roses to be planted in the best situa¬ 
tions, or in places where young plants would bo 
more satisfactory. Places could be found for 
the old Roses in nooks in the pleasure grounds 
about the margins of shrub beds. Old Roses, 
when planted in good soil, and not cut in too 
much, have a good effect in such places. With 
the view of taking advantage of the best time to 
plant, let all Rose plants and beds be looked 
over forthwith; where it is thought plants are 
on the decline, let them have the benefit of 
transplanting. If they are so far gone as not 
to be worth a good place, give them an inferior 
one ; where the stock is likely to be short, order 
at once. Do not be over anxious to get the very 
newest kinds in quantity, if plenty of good 
flowers must be grown; well-proved varieties 
must be depended on for this. 

How to Plant. 

This is of as much importance as when to 
plant. All must be done with care and fore¬ 
thought-care not to damage the plants, and 
forethought in supplying them with healthy 
good material at the roots to keep them for a few 
years. Heavy soil suits Roses best. With plenty 
of manure a sandy soil may produce a few good 
blooms the first season, but that will be about 
all; consequently, sandy s >il should be as little 
used as possible. Very old worn-out soil does 
not grow them well either, and where the beds 
in which they are to be planted is of this, a 
good deal of heavy loam should be added. 
Where Rose blooms of the finest “ show " form 
are wanted, all the old soil should be taken 
out, and the bed filled up wholly with new loam. 
In all cases the new soil should be got in, and 
the beds thoroughly prepared before planting. 
When the plants have to be put back in 
the same bed, they should be lifted out 
carefully and laid in stock until the bed is 
ready for them. Allowing them to become dry 
at the roots through being out of the ground is 
destructive. The best way is to put in new soil 
first, making the bed up with this, and digging 
the manure in afterwards. The soil ought to be 
at least 2 feet deep, but the manure need not be 
put down quite this depth, as it only tends to 
draw the roots downwards—a bad result. If the 
manure is close to where the roots will be, it is 
in its proper place. It is generally known that 
Hoses like manure, but when it is put in such 
quantities that it lies in lumps and heaps 
together under the surface it is injurious to them. 
It is only when it is well mixed through the soil 
that the greatest benefits are to be had from it. 
The poorer the soil the more manure must be 
given, and it should al ways be of the best quality. 
Half-rotten straw and leaves are no good ; heavy 
pig or cow manure is the best. Do not crowd 
the plants together. Individual plants well grown 
are more pleasing than a crowd and confusion. 
From 2 feet to 3 feet apart is close enough 
for any Roses, and some of them may have more 
space than this. In planting, make the hole big 
enough to let the roots in comfortably; putting 
them in in a bundle or one on the top of another 
is not the way. They ought to radiate from the 
centre and spread out well. Old plants with 
long, thick, fibreless roots should have them cut 
carefully in to 8 inches or 10 inches from the base 
of the stem. Deep planting should also be 
avoided. Let the roots be covered with the soil 
about 3 inches and no more. When let down a 
foot or more to keep the'wind from blowing 
them away, they will Leith® ^ oi bloom 


well. Make the soil fine round and over the 
roots; standard and dwarfs alike should be tied 
to a firm stake, as it is important that the roots 
are not moved after planting. A good coating 
of half-decayed manure should be placud over 
the surface of the beds. 0. 


Boses from cuttings.— The beginning 
of November I find to be the best time for put¬ 
ting in Rose cuttings in quantity. A sunny 
position sheltered from the east winds should 
be selected for them; the soil should be friable 
and well manured, aud the beds prepared when 
the ground is dry. They should be made about 
2i feet wide for handlights, with a path 18 in¬ 
ches wide between them, and the beds should 
be raised 9 inches above the path to keep the 
soil dry during winter. Thus situated, the cut¬ 
tings will root more quickly. The paths should 
be filled up above the level of the beds in May 
in order to let the cuttings have plenty of water 
during the summer season. Firm, short growths 
should be selected for cuttings, and they should 
be taken oil with a heel, leaving them full length 
if possible, They should be put in about 2 
inches apart, inserted 3 inches or 1 inches in the 
soil, and watered copiously in order to settle the 
soil well round them. Tender sorts, such as the 
Teas, should have the protection of handlights, 
but the hardier varieties may be put in beds 
about 3 j feet wide; the soil should be made 
firm, a layer of sand should be put on the sur¬ 
face, and the cutting protected from severe frost 
by means of mats, boughs, or other material of 
a suitable kind. Last winter being mild, pro¬ 
tection was not necessary, and those who were 
so fortunate as to put in quantities of cuttings 
will now have a fine lot of plants. Success 
greatly depends on preventing early growth 
until the cuttings make roots; consequently 
they should be exposed as much as possible 
when the weather is mild. Many of the cuttings 
here put in last November flowered finely this 
autumn, particularly Souvenir d'un Ami and 
Souvenir de la Malmaison, and some of Mare- 
chal Niel made about 5 feet of growth. Roses 
on their own roots are particularly well adapted 
for planting in the wild garden, in open places 
free from tree roots, where the soil is suitable. 
If the beds made for them are well manured 
they will want little other attention beside 
pruning and keeping free from weeds; many of 
the pruningsmay be taken in November before 
the leaves are off and utilised for cuttings. 
They will strike well after the leaves have fallen. 
—S. It. 


THE COMING WEEK'S WOBK. 

Extracts from a Garden Diary—November 12 
to November 17. 

Tutting cuttings from cold and damp pits on shelves 
in vinery. Planting out Guernsey I.ilies under a warm 
wall, also Roses, manuring them and giving some of them 
fresh soil. Planting Horseradish. Putting some Cine- 
rarias into slight heat; also Seakalo, Asparagus, and 
Rhubarb. Pilling up empty frames with Lettuce from 
under walk Taking up more Schisostylis and Narcissi, 
also more Cauliflower. Nailing wall Plum trees Putting 
Roses (Tea-scented sorts) into a cool vinery. Getting all 
Violets in pots into frames. Covering up Globe Arti¬ 
chokes with straw. Protecting seed Potatoes. Laying 
all fresh-potted Roses out-of-doors on their sides and 
plunging them in straw. Digging flower borders. Plant¬ 
ing Fig and Peach trees, Raspberry canes, also Anemones, 
giving the latter manure and sand. Putting in Hyacinths, 
Tulips, Dielytra, and Lily of the Valley to force. Finish¬ 
ing alt north-wall nailing. Making a new Mushroom lied. 
Potting some Azalea politico. Making a nil ready for 
forcing flowers, keeping It at 65“ at night and 70“ by day, 
slightly syringing when necessary. Nailing Apple and 
Pear trees Putting hand-lights over Cauliflowers. Look¬ 
ing over bedding Pelargoniums and cleaning them. All 
Vines pruned now except late ones. Shortening Rose 
shoots a little in order to keep wind from rocking the 
plants. Running dirty water out of boilers. Sowing 
Mustard and Cress regularly. Layering some Cucumber 
shoots in pots for early spring work. Finishing planting 
old bulbs out-of-doors. Planting out February Cucumber 
plants. Put in tome Indian Azaleas to force for flower- 
iug by December 30. Taking the Roman Hyacinths in 
flower out of heat. Syringing Gardenias with soap-suds 
once a fortnight. Watering Asparagus Just appealing; 
also top-dressing Oranges and giving them some Standen’s 
manure. Stirring the soli amongst frame Violets. Pot- 
ting Lilies in peat and sand, and plunging them out-of- 
doors overhead in sand. Planting out Sw-ect Williams 
and Wallflowers, taking them up with large balls, also 
climbing Dovoniensis Roses In conservatory. Taking up 
some Anne Boleyn and White Pinks for forcing and pot¬ 
ting them. Spreading out seed Potatoes in cellar to keep 
them from sprouting, (living Gardenias a top-dressing 
of tnrfy loam and Oak leaves. Earthing up winter Cucum¬ 
bers weekly, half-inch at a time. Pruning all Rosea for 
forcing. Digging borders and manuring them for Roses. 
Putting in Seakale to force. 


Glasshouses. 

Bulbous-rooted summer-flowering stove 
plants.—Such things as Gloxinias, Achimenes, 
herbaceous Gesneras, and Gloriosas, although 
bearing in many cases a lower temperature 
through the winter than might be supposed from 
the warm countries from which they originate, 
will not do to be kept too cool, as many to their 
cost yearly discover when it is too late, through 
the tubers going off in a damp, mouldy condition. 
In most cases, as I have before mentioned, the 
roots keep best in the pots in which they were 
grown, the soil having been allowed to get quite 
dry ; yet pots with apparently nothing in them 
beyond the soil which they contain are not 
sightly objects in plant houses, and it often 
happens that there is no other place where they 
can be kept at a suitable temperature. This 
being so, it is best to put them in paper bags 
with a good body of dry sand round them, the 
object of which is to keep the air to a great 
extent from them; otherwise, if the atmosphere 
is too dry, they not unusually shrivel up. In a 
temperature of 55°, or a few degrees above that, 
they are not likely to take any harm. 

Caladiums should be similarly treated. The 
small C. argyrites is now by many grown in 
quantity for the use of the leaves to mix with 
cut flowers, as well as for general decoration in 
small pots. Where the stock of it happens to be 
limited, it will best be increased by now turning 
the plants out of the soil and repotting, keeping 
them growing instead of allowing them to remain 
in a dormant state through the winter. Moderate 
sized tubers that have been in a state of semi- 
rest, if now placed in a brisk heat, will at once 
commence to grow, and as soon as the yonng 
crowns have got two or three leaves, and 
attained a height of 3 inches or 4 inches, they 
may be taken off from the parent tuber and 
placed singly in small pots, keeping them well 
up to the light. The latter is essential with any 
plant of a like character to this which has to be 
so used, for, unless the leaves are of a stocky, 
robust character, they are useless in the lower 
temperature to which they will ultimately be 
subjected. 

Gardenias. -Plants of these required for 
winter flowering should have the best position 
that the warmest end of the stove can afford. 
They arc, more than many things, liable to drop 
their bloom-buds in the winter season, often 
when so far advanced as to be almost on the 
verge of expanding; extremes from any cause, 
either of being too dry or too wet at the roots, 
too much moisture in the atmosphere, too much 
heat suddenly applied, or the opposite of being 
too cold, especially after the flowers have 
attained considerable size, will cause their fall¬ 
ing off, although the mischief will not always 
be apparent for some weeks after whatever may 
bring it about has occurred. The most effectual 
means for avoiding the flowers dropping is to 
keep the plants in as light a position as possi¬ 
ble. The little G. citriodora, blooming as it 
does in such a small state, if grown in quantity 
will always be found useful, especially whore 
many flowers are wanted for bouquets. 

Amaryllises that bloomed late, and make 
correspondingly late growth, will now need keep¬ 
ing at rest. This refers both to the deciduous 
and evergreen kinds; the former are safe any¬ 
where with the heat of an ordinary greenhouse, 
and will bear the soil keeping quite dry. The 
evergreen sorts should be kept sufficiently dry 
during the winter to get them fairly to rest; 
but, on the other hand, they must not be allowed 
to get so dry as to cause their leaves to shrivel, 
as where this happens premature loss of foliage 
is sure to occur, which reduces the strength of 
the bulbs. With young stock of the evergreen 
species the roots should not be further dried 
than will result from keeping the soil in a 
slightly moist condition. 

Tuberoses. — There are few things that 
afford such a long succession of flowers as Tube¬ 
roses, for where enough are grown they may be 
had in bloom for much the greater part of the 
year. Those who want to have them in good 
time should at once provide a sufficient quantity 
of roots, potting a portion up without delay, 
and keeping the remainder dry for the present, 
potting them at intervals. The American grown 
roots are held in much the most favour at the 
present day. Those who have had little experi¬ 
ence with these plants often fail in getting the 
I bulbs to start, generally through their decaying 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Nov. 10, 1883. 


40<> 


instead of forming roots, and to which they are 
very liable unless great caution is used in the 
matter of water ; for if the soil is kept in an)’ - 
thing approaching the moist condition that mos 1 
other plants would need, the mischief is almost 
certain to occur. We have succeeded best by 
potting them in soil in a comparatively dry 
state, and then standing the pots on the earthen 
floor or pit, or some moisture-holding material 
slightly damp, from which the pots will usually 
absorb enough until the roots are well in motion, 
when they will bear the soil to be kept fairly 
moist. 

Bougainvilleas.— When grown in a warm 
stove, B. glabra is so manageable that, with the 
aid of two or three good-sized pot specimens, 
it may be had in flower for the greater portion 
of the year, ranging from April to the end of 
October. It likewise succeeds well when planted 
out in a low, intermediate heat little'above that of 
a greenhouse, flowering as a matter of course 
later in the summer, but when thus subjected to 
cool treatment it differs much from most other 
things in rarely blooming anything worth notice 
if the roots are confined to a pot, keeping on 
growing through the summer without much dis¬ 
position to flower. B. spectabilis at one time 
was supposed to be a very difficult plant to 
flower, only succeeding in a high temperature, 
where, in addition, its roots could be almost 
baked with heat when at rest; yet it grows and 
blooms freely either planted outer accommodated 
with a large box or tub in a warm greenhouse or 
conservatory, usually coming in about May or 
J une, and sometimes again in the autumn. Its 
intensely deep bright pinkish mauve bracts are 
finer coloured than those of B. glabra, but as this 
plant b'ooms from the ripe wood the knife must 
be little used, except after the spring flowering, 
when the shoots should be so far reduced as to 
keep it within the requisite bounds, it is a strong 
grower, covering a large space when it has 
plenty of root and also head room. It should 
now be gradually dried off for the winter, giving 
very little water for a considerable time. 

Flower Garden. 

Genebal woek.— Every exertion should be 
made to advance the transplanting of trees, 
shrubs, and Roses, which as a rule do best when 
planted in autumn, for although in open weather 
planting may be safely done all throngh the 
winter, a comparison of results would soon 
determine the undecided in favour of autumn 
planting. If an exception to this rule were 
made, it ought only to be in those cases where 
the plastic nature of the soil renders it all but 
impossible to plant at any season earlier than 
the middle of February. Other heavy jobs 
should be undertaken, such as gravel digging, 
draining, road and walk making and mending, 
the cutting of verges, laying of turf, trimming 
hedges, and the burning up of the cuttings, 
together with the summer's accumulation of the 
rubbish heap, the ashes from which are of great 
manorial value for almost any crop. The mar¬ 
vellous reaction that has of late years taken 
place in favour of hardy flowers has to a large 
extent done away with the reproach once so 
common in gardens, viz., that of having bare 
beds for six months or more out of the twelve. 
Where these undesirable conditions still hold 
sway, there will be a certain amount of satisfac¬ 
tion obtained in the way of neatness and of 
profit to the land if the beds be at once deeply 
trenched, neatly edged, and the soil levelled 
down with a rake. The baldness and grave like 
appearance of the beds may be relieved at the 
price of a few hours' labour only by dotting over 
them a few trimmed, tree-like branches of ever¬ 
green shrubs, a recommendation that is made 
not because it is a desirable way to furnish the 
beds, but simply as being preferable to the de¬ 
pressing sight that such beds present at the 
dullest season of the year, when to make amends 
for gloominess we ought to strive the more to 
impart brightness into our gardens. 

Bedding plants. — Dahlias, Gladioli, arid all 
other tuberous plants having been lifted and 
partially dried, ought now to be planted thickly 
in boxes, or on the floor of a cool cellar or shed ; 
sifted leaf-soil and Cocoa fibre refuse are the 
best materials with which to surround them. 
Lobelias of the cardinalis section, Verbena 
venosa. and Salvia patens winter best in day¬ 
light, and therefore these should be afforded the 
shelter of a cold nit, but. may be hrjeled in quite 
as thickly and wiw sin^iiy m ite)ii|l^as the pre¬ 


ceding. Pelargoniums must be kept on the dry 
side as to moisture at the root, whilst the atmo¬ 
sphere should be as dry as possible. Where 
there are houses specially constructed for winter¬ 
ing and growing such plants, there is no diffi¬ 
culty as to wintering the plants well, but oftener 
than not one has to put up with makeshift con¬ 
trivances, or else to make use of vineries, Peach 
houses, &c., when the first study must, of course, 
be the trees, and therefore bedding plants have 
to take their chance ; but with careful watering 
and timely removal of decaying leaves they can 
generally be wintered with a fair amount of 
success. It is necessary to keep the tender 
section in strong heat—shelves in Pine and plant 
stoves are the best positions, and the plants at 
this season must be but sparingly watered. The 
hardier material in cold frames, such as Ver¬ 
benas, Calceolarias, and Violas, should be fully 
exposed in fine weather, and the surface of the 
soil loosened with a pointed stick to prevent the 
growth of Moss and funguB, either of which, if 
allowed to extend, would cause the plants to rot 
off. 

Fruit. 

Vines. —When all the leaves are off the Vines, 
steady attention to cleanliness, gentle warmth, 
and ventilation will carry all the late keeping 
kinds on to Christmas, when they may be cut, 
bottled, and the Vines pruned and rested. If 
not already done, the internal borders in the 
late vinery may be well covered with loose, dry 
Bracken for the twofold purpose of keeping 
down dust and absorbing moisture. Outside 
borders may also be covered with boards to throw 
off cold rain and snow, from the time the leaves 
fall until the Grapes are cut, when exposure 
will again be preferable to getting the roots too 
dry. Where late Muscats are wanted to keep 
as long as possible, the houses will require very 
careful management during the fall of the leaf. 
Let the temperature decline to 50° in mild 
weather, and give no more fire heat than is re¬ 
quisite to the maintenance of a dry, cool atmo¬ 
sphere and safety from frost. Eemove all 
plants and evaporating pans, cover the floor with 
Ferns, and dry out or cover np water cisterns to 
prevent the absorption of moisture by the atmo¬ 
sphere, which must now be dry and buoyant. 
As thoroughly ripened Muscats are easily caught 
by the sun, it is a good plan to strain a piece 
of netting or thin canvas across the roof of 
modern houses to protect the shoulders, and to 
secure an equable temperature through the 
night. If any late llamburghs are still hanging 
on the Vines in houses which were retarded in 
the spring, they will now keep better in the 
Grape room, and in order to thoroughly ripen 
up the wood, the house may be subjected to a 
period of sharp, dry firing, with plenty of air on 
fine days. 

Eaely vineries from which the first crop 
of fruit is to be gathered in May may be closed at 
once. If fermenting material is applied to the 
internal borders, a temperature ranging from 
45° to 55° may bo maintained without the aid of 
much fire heat, but in the event of the weather 
becoming very cold the pipes must be warmed 
every morning, and the swelling of the buds 
aided by frequent syringing with warm water. 
The best material for producing general warmth 
is fresh Oak leaves and short stable manure, 
thoroughly worked and fermented before it is 
taken into the house. The outside borders, hitherto 
exposed to the elements, may be protected with 
litter or shutters, but no artificial warmth must 
be applied to them until the buds begin to swell. 
After the house has been closed for a week or 
two the temperature may range about 55°, with 
a rise of S° to 10° on sunny days. Examine the 
borders, and if the repeated wateriDgs, little and 
often, previously recommended, have not tho¬ 
roughly penetrated to and throngh the drainage, 
give a thorough soaking with water at a tempera¬ 
ture of !)0° and cover np immediately with the 
fermenting material. If the Vines are young 
they may by slung in a horizontal position, as 
more time and attention will be needed to secure 
an even break, while old ones will break equally 
well if tied up to the wires as soon as they are 
pruned and dressed and exposed to a few degrees 
more heat by day; but in all cases from the 
beginning to the end a low or resting night tem¬ 
perature will be found one of the main features 
of success in the cultivation of Grapes. 

1IAEDY FRUIT. — The necessity for early 
planting and renovation of fruit tree borders has 


been so often insisted on in these pages, that 
nothing further need be added except that such 
work should, if possible, be brought to a close by 
the end of this month. Any that then remain 
to be done had better be deferred till vegetation 
again becomes active. From the foregoing it 
will be seen that we attach some importance to 
the season, or what may be termed the right 
time for planting ; but after all, comparatively 
speaking, this is but a secondary consideration, 
as successful planting may be done any time 
from October to April; but we attach the great¬ 
est importance to the mode of planting; by 
which is meant not only the literal planting of 
the trees, but the proper preparation of the 
ground for them, and in doing this the first essen¬ 
tial is good drainage. Every kind of cultivated 
hardy fruit, from a Peach to a Gooseberry, 
resents anything like a stagnant state of the 
soil; moreover, good drainage increases by 
several degrees its temperature, and, as a matter 
of course, this must aid the most perfect develop¬ 
ment of the fruit. The kind of soil that suits 
fruit trees generally is a calcareous loam of 
moderate texture—that is neither heavy nor 
light—but of necessity this matter must be 
subject to local considerations, as often the soil 
best suited for certain trees is not obtainable; 
but, though there is a best kind, they are by no 
means fastidious, and all soils worthy of the 
name can, by a little outlay of time and money, 
bo made to grow fruit well. Light ground 
should be trenched very deeply, and if procur¬ 
able, heavy loam or clay should be intermixed 
with it, but if this be not obtainable, well firming 
will in some measure atone for its absence. Very 
heavy or clayey soils should also be trenched, 
and any sort of material that would render 
it more porous, such as mortar rubble, charcoal, 
and cinder ashes should be added, and it must be 
allowed to subside naturally, without artificial 
compression. Unlessthe soil be very poorindeed, 
no manure of any kind should be mixed directly 
witn it, for the simple leason that the disposi¬ 
tion of all fruit trees, when planted in rich soils, 
inclines towards the production of wood rather 
than fruit. It must not be inferred from this 
that manure is not essential to the production 
of good fruit, for it most certainly is, bnt never 
till the trees have fairly begun fruiting, and then 
annual surface dressings have the most marked 
effect, for thus applied, it is not only valuable 
from a fertilising point of view, but it tends to 
keep the roots near the surface, a position in 
which they are most benefited by the action of 
sun and air. All who have plenty of ground for 
kitchen garden crops should never think of en¬ 
croaching on the fruit tree borders, and those 
who by the force of circumstances must thus 
crop, should at least allow each tree a fair 
modicum of space. Keep the roots near the 
surface ; detp planting is an error. Above all, 
let them be well spread out, and the soil worked 
well amongst them with the hand, and after¬ 
wards let the trees be securely staked, for till 
that is done all fresh roots that may be made 
will, by the first gale, be destroyed through the 
swaying to and fro of the tree. 


Vegetables. 

Earthing Celery forms at present the greater 
part of our work. Whenever the weather is dry 
get it well banked up; a sharp frost coming 
before the final earthing is most detrimental to 
its well-being. Continue to lift Carrots, Turnips, 
and Beet, stacking them outside in small round 
pits ; a cartload in each is plenty; cover np first 
with dry straw, then put on the soil abont 
6 inches thick. Our earliest sowing of Peas we 
make about the middle of the month. I find 
Laxton's William I. to be a hardy and good 
standard variety. A good site for Peas is a 
warm south border; we sow them in drills 
about 4 feet apart, and if the following advice 
is adhered to, a good crop will be the result. 
As soon as the plants show themselves above 
the ground cover them over 1 inch thick with 
coal ashes; this wards off their enemy, the slug; 
and placing four strings of white worsted along 
the rows, elevated about 6 inches above the 
ground, in a great measure keeps off the birds. 
When the Peas show throngh the ashes, they 
should be earthed and rodded immediately. 
Nothing is so bad for Peas as sharp cutting sur¬ 
face winds in spring, but by adding a few 
Spruce branches along each side all will be 
satisfactory. Broad Beans (Old Green Windsor 
is still my favourite) should also be planted; 


Nov. 10, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


■407 


these brave the winter winds better than Peas; 
still, if earliness is a consideration, protect them, 
and they will pay for it 


WOBK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 
Growers of Chrysanthemums will now be 
reaping the reward of their labours in the enjoy¬ 
ment of a fine show of bloom, both indoors and 
out. So far, the present has been a really 
splendid season for Chrysanthemums; even the 
more delicate show and Japanese varieties, if 
moderately early, have opened nearly as well 
out-of-doors as under glass, and we have already 
cat really nice blooms of Elaine, James Salter, 
Mrs. Bundle, and others, from out-of-door plants. 
Now that they are in bloom is the time to go 
carefully over all your plants, see that each is 
true to name, and freshly and correctly label 
them. It is also advisable for anyone who desires 
to form or to keep up a really good collection, 
to visit one or more Chrysanthemum shows, and 
take notes of all varieties, whether old or new, 
that possess sufficiently good points to render 
them worth growing. Keep all suckers and 
young growths from the lower part of the stems 
vigorously removed. Keep the plants well 
supplied with water, and those that are not yet 
expanding may have a little weak stimulant of 
some kind two or three times a week. To 
insure well developed blooms, and that these 
should remain as long a time as possible in 
beauty, keep the plants cool—in the delight¬ 
fully open weather now prevailing no artificial 
warmth whatever is needed— and admit 
abundance of air; at the same time, should sharp 
frost or, worse, dull, cold, and wet weather set 
in, do not hesitate to use a little gentle warmth, 
which will be found very beneficial If cuttiDgs 
can be procured, and fine large specimen plants 
are required, strike as many as will be needed at 
once ; old plants, or those struck the previous 
autumn, produce more and better blooms than 
young-struck plants always. Take up and pot 
Carnations that were layered in the open ground, 
as soon as well rooted, and winter them either in 
frames or a cool house. The best of these should 
be potted into 7-inch or 8-inch, or even larger 
pots, early next March for floweiing indoors, and 
the rest be planted out again. Pot them now 
singly into 3-inch pots, use sound • sandy loam, 
and pot quite firmly. Keep Cinerarias potted on 
as required, and fnmigate whenever greenfly 
appears, but if kept properly watered and 
growing, there will not be much trouble on this 
score. Cyclamens are now best on a light airy 
shelf in a rather warm house, but keep them well 
watered at the roots. 13. C. R. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

{Continued from page 388.) 


The Orangery. 

Orange culture, in its old-fashioned sense for 
ornament merely, seems of late years to have 
become unfashionable, which has led to their 
neglect, and newer favourites have usurped their 
places. 1 know many old gardens where, thirty 
years ago, the Orange trees used to be a special 
feature that are now Orangeless, if I may use 
such a term. I don't know if this is a subject 
for regret, but somehow one misses their delight¬ 
ful perfume, as some one specimen or other was 
nearly always in flower, accompanied at the 
same time by both green and golden fruit. It is 
true the fruits were not as a rule usable, except 
for flavouring purposes, but the golden fruit 
clustering thickly amid bright green, handsome 
foliage, had a value in winter for decorating the 
hall or the ball-room; and a few of these old 
plants, which I remember so well, laden with 
fruit to mix with the Palms and other greenery, 
would brighten up the scene immensely. Home 
of the small-leaved kinds trained as standards 
are very effective, and may be grown in small 
pots for table or room decoration. In the sum¬ 
mer large Orange trees are striking objeots for 
the formal garden, placed at intervals on the 
terrace, or in prominent situations anywhere. 
The old-fashioned Orangery was a dark, dreary 
place, often having an opaque roof, and only 
sufficiently heated to keep out frost. They were 
simply sheltering places for the trees in winter, 
the summer being passed in the open air. Of 
course, all the Orangeriesi^ere not of this cha¬ 
racter. In some placea/Oranges wore wall ejpne, 
and there is no qnestioAthalfcqfcd C rWgfcitf ouM 


be grown in England if it were worth while to 
do so, but the trees must have a higher tem¬ 
perature than if merely required to produce 
fruit and flowers for ornamental purposes. In 
the former case, they must be grown system¬ 
atically under suitable conditions, and with a 
gradually increasing temperature as the fruit 
progresses. But Oranges are imported so cheaply, 
it is hardly necessary, except it may be in the 
most complete establishments, to grow them for 
the fruit alone. But I do think, for decorative 
purposes, Orange trees might have more atten¬ 
tion given to them, and nearly ail the attention 
they require is to provide a light place where 
the frost is kept out, to shelter them in winter. 
All through the summer the Orange trees may 
stand in the open air on the terrace, or in any 
position where furniture of a somewhat novel 
character is appreciated. There is hardly a 
place of any size that a few Orange trees planted 
about would not improve. I have seen the pots 
plunged in a sheltered nook on the lawn with 
good effect. 

Soil and Potting. 

Turfy loam is the best soil, slightly enriched 
■with well-decayed manure; crushed bones are also 
good for them in moderation. I have used bones 
mixed with the Boil at the rate of a peck to a 
barrowful of soil, both for potting and top-dres¬ 
sing, with manifest advantage, and this will per¬ 
mit of small sized pots being used for compara¬ 
tively large plants. Large plants, if the drainage 
is clear, may go several years without repotting. 
They require a good supply of water in summer, 
but less will be needed in winter, although the 
temperature of the building in which they are 
placed will have some influence. 

The whole Citron family are delightful for 
covering walls anywhere under glass. I have 
seen good crops of Lemons grown on the back of 
a vinery, and a wall covered with Oranges or 
Lemons, in fruit or flower, has a delightful and 
quite novel appearance. They succeed with bnt 
little trouble when planted out in a good bed 
of loam nnder glass, where a night temperature 
of from 40° to 50° can be maintained in winter. 

Insects and Diseases. 

Orange trees are rather subject to the attacks 
of brown scale. The best preventive is plenty 
of clean water syringed over the foliage, occa¬ 
sionally patting a dash of soft soap in it. If 
neglected, and they get badly infested, there is 
nothing for it but a long period of sponging 
with an insecticide, such as soft soap or 
Gishurst compound. 

Treating Unhealthy Plants. 

When an Orange tree becomes sickly, it will 
be most probably found, on investigation, that 
the drainage has become choked, so that the 
water cannot pass freely away. Turn the plant 
out of the pot, if in a bad state, and remove the 
choked drainage and as mnch of the exhausted, 
sodden soil as can be got away without injuring 
the roots, and repot in a clean pot of the same 
size. Though not easy to kill, yet it is possible 
to have them in very bad condition, and some¬ 
times it may be an advantage to give the plants 
a little bottom heat in order to induce an early 
root action. I remember once having a lot of 
very unhealthy Orange trees placed in my 
charge to recover their health. They were too 
large for any house we had possessing a bottom 
heat pit, but we improvised a bed of leaves in a 
large vinery where the Vines were just breaking, 
and after pruning both the branches and the 
roots, we potted them into as small pots as they 
could be got into, and plunged them in the bed 
of leaves, which supplied a nice steady 
warmth. The roots commenced work almost 
immediately, and after a time latent buds 
burst out of the naked stems, and during 
the summer the plants were brought into a 
healthy, vigorous condition again. 

Propagating Orange Trees. 

The pips or seeds of the imported Oranges 
may be saved and planted in spring. They soon 
germinate if treated to a little bottom-heat, 
when they should be potted singly into small 
pots, and if grown on quickly in heat they will 
be fit for grafting in twelve months. The mode 
of grafting young plants lias been referred 
to already in the case of Correas and Erioste- 
rnons. If a close pit or frame can be had in 
spring with a temperature of 60°, grafting 
Oranges is a very simple, easy business ; but 


without this it is better not to attempt it. 
Oranges may be budded later in the season if 
the grafts or any of them fail, which is not likely 
if all things are right. 

Varieties. 

The Tangarine, the Maltese Blood, and the 
Sweet China are the best kinds to grow for 
dessert, and the Seville and its varieties, with the 
Otaheite and the Myrtle-leaved, are among the 
beBt for merely ornamental purposes. The 
Lemon, Lime, and Shaddock should also be in¬ 
cluded. 

The Camellia House. 

In warm sheltered places on the south and 
west coasts of England, many fine old 
Camellias are met with in the open air, and which 
in favourable seasons flower abundantly. Two 
remarkable specimens of noble tree-like 
aspect I saw some years ago growing in the 
grounds of Powderham Castle, on the banks of 
the Exe, a few miles from Exeter, and which 
Mr. Powell, the gardener, told me were brought 
home by the celebrated Sir Joseph Banks and 
presented to the late Earl of Devon. Bnt taking 
the country generally, to have Camellias at their 
best, they must have the shelter of a glass roof. 
Artificial heat is not a necessity, as the plants 
are hardy enongh. The great need they have for 
protection, is to provide shelter for their blossoms, 
which are exceedingly delicate and liable to 
injury from wind and rain. Camellias are well 
adapted for planting in an unheated glass colo- 
nade, which they might be permitted to occupy 
altogether. Some might be planted to cover the 
back wall, others trained up pillars or planted 
out independently in the borders, so arranging 
the plants that their brilliant colours are well 
balanced. In the conservatory they may be used 
to form backgrounds or centres; but the Camellia 
is impatient of much fire-heat, and is very apt to 
cast its flower buds if the night temperature in 
winter is much over 40° to 45°' 

If early flowers are required, the only safe plan 
to adopt is to force the young wood and get it 
ripened early. By this means 1 have been able 
to cut white Camellia flowers in September. To 
do this the plants must be in pots or tubs, 
and be moved after they have done flowering to 
a forcing house. The same care in cooling down 
and ripening will be requisite as is given to 
forced plants generally. Some good cultivators 
object to place their plants out of doors at all, 
but if a nice sheltered position can be found, a 
month or six weeks in the open air after the 
middle of July will be beneficial. They must 
never be allowed to suffer from want of water, 
and should not be exposed to gales of wind. 

Soil and Potting. 

Various composts are used by different cul¬ 
tivators; the Belgians grow the young plants, of 
which so many thousands are annually brought 
to this country in leaf-mould, reduced com¬ 
pletely, by frequent turnings, mixiDgs, and expo¬ 
sure, to a fine black mould. Many of our nur¬ 
serymen use peat and sand only, and though 
both these systems result in producing plants 
of a saleable size quickly, yet for specimen 
plants for home use, which are expected to have 
a long,vigorous existence, there is nothing supe¬ 
rior to good sound turfy loam, cut about 3 inches 
thick, from the top of a pasture, and laid up just 
long enough to kill the Grass. Heavy loam may 
be lightened with coarse sand, or in some oases a 
little peat or leaf-mould may be added. The 
most important items in their culture in pots are 
turfy soil well rammed in, clean pots, good 
drainage, and abundant supplies of water 
when really required. The plants do better 
placed upon a cool bed of ashes where a certain 
amount of dampness exists than on a dry, ex¬ 
posed stage. The best time to repot is early in 
August, the roots then being in an active state, 
and will take hold of the soil quickly, and be 
ready to supply the increasing necessities of the 
advancing buds and the future crop of flowers. 

Pruning. 

If any piuniDg be needed to keep the plants 
shapely, it should be done when the flowering is 
over in spring, just as the plants are breaking 
into growth. If at any time, through bad treat¬ 
ment, a plant has become leggy and naked at 
the bottom, if the roots are healthy the plant 
may be headed back into the old wood in spring, 
and, if placed in a warm, genial temperature, 
latent buds will push from the old stems, and in 


408 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Nov. 10, 1883. 


coarse of time well-famished plants will be 
obtained in place of the ungainly naked ones. 
If, on examination, the roots of such plants are 
found unhealthy, the heading down should be 
delayed for a year, or until, by re-potting in 
nothing but fibry loam, new roots have been 
made and strength enough generated to cause 
the buds to start. Catting off the head of a plant 
having deficient root action is very likely to kill 
it. Camellias in a healthy, vigorous condition 
will generally set more flower buds than the 
plants should be allowed to carry. These should 
be thinned in autumn to about two or three on 
each shoot, leaving, of course, those best placed 
for effective display. Camellias are much bene¬ 
fited by frequent washings with the syringe or 
garden engine during spring and summer, espe¬ 
cially in the growing season, if required merely 
for the sake of their flowers for cutting. 

Planting Out. 

Camellias may, with advantage, be planted 
against the back walls of cool Peach or orchard 
houses, as the shade such plants afford will be 
beneficial rather than otherwise. I have seen 
very good results obtained in this way at a small 
cost. The branches may either be trained closely 
to the wall, which should be wired for the pur¬ 
pose, or, if there is space enough, a greater free¬ 
dom of development may be permitted. Lime 
is poisonous to Camellias, Rhododendrons, and 
Azaleas. If any is present in the soil, the plants 
turn sickly and cease to grow, and after linger¬ 
ing a time they die; the only thing that can 
save them is to change their diet. Camellias 
never thrive well in the full glare of the sun; 
under such conditions it will always be neces¬ 
sary to use a thin shade. Mistakes are some¬ 
times made in planting out potbouud plants into 
a loose border of recently prepared soil. I was 
some time ago examiningja case of this kind. The 
Camellias had been grown in pots for years, and 
some were potbound and were beginning to show 
symptoms of starvation, when it was decided to 
plant them into a border which had just been 
made up in another house. It is probable that 
when planted the balls were dry, and afterwards 
they never received water enough to moisten 
them, although plenty was given, but instead of 
penetrating the balls it dribbled down by the 
side, and the leaves, not being sufficiently sup¬ 
plied, lost their colour, turned brown round the 
edges, and dropped off. When the cause of the 
mischief was pointed out, and the soil made firm 
round the balls, and a clay basin formed round 
each plant about as large as the ball to force 
the water to percolate through the ball instead 
of down by the side, matters soon began to 
improve, and ultimately the plants did well. 
Still, it requires careful management to turn out 
a collection of plants that have been many 
years in pots and have become potbound to get 
them to start nicely in a new situation under a 
new set of circumstances. In preparing borders, 
care should be exercised that nothing is placed 
in them that may generate fungus, such as bits 
of stick, or the half-decayed substances that 
are often present in leaf-mould; the bracken 
roots often found in peat is another fertile source 
of fungus. This is why I should recommend 
Camellias to be planted chiefly in turfy loam, 
hut it must be free from calcareous matter. A 
little old manure may be added if necessary, and 
a sprinkling of soot will also be of gTeat service 
in maintaining the plants in vigorous health. 
During the swelling of the buds, and when 
the plants are in flower, weak liquid 
manure, made by dropping a bag of soot 
into a tub of soft water, and still fur¬ 
ther diluting it before giving it to the plants 
if needful, will be very beneficial, as 
soot seems especially helpful to the large glossy 
foliage when given in moderate doses. 

Pbopagation. 

Camellias are chiefly propagated by grafting 
on the common single Camellia, the latter being 
obtained by cuttings or layers. I have rooted the 
double Camellias from cuttings in spring, taken 
off with a heel, and plunged in a steady bottom- 
heat. But grafting on the Bingle variety is the 
best and readiest means of increase. All new 
varieties are, of course, raised from seeds, which 
should be sown in spring in pots or pans of peat 
and sand, and placed in a little heat to ensure 
early germination. The young plants must be 
shaded from bright Sunshine, emxlcially when 
they first appear. ^At^ljtig acff jljeir growth 


the Camellias require careful watering. Camel¬ 
lias, like all other plants, may be grafted by 
approach, i.e., the two plants to be propagated 
are brought close together, and the one inarched 
upon the other in a very simple manner by cut¬ 
ting a slice off each and binding the cut surfaces 
together and keeping them firmly tied till they 
unite. 

List of Camellias. 

Alba plena, Archduchess Marie, Beali, Candi- 
dissima, Carlotta Fapudoff, Comte de Flanders, 
Comte de Paris, Conspicua, Countess of Derby, 
Donckellaari, Countess of Ellesmere, Cup of 
Beauty, Duchess de Orleans, Elegans, Fimbriata 
alba, Henri Favre, Imbricata, Jubilee, Marchio¬ 
ness of Exeter, Mathotiana, Monarch, Napoleon 
III., Mrs. Abbey Wilder, Optima, Queen of Beau¬ 
ties, Saccoi nova, Storyi, and Tricolor imbricata. 

Azaleas and Rhododendrons. 

For gorgeous effect no class of plants can sur¬ 
pass these, The colours are so clear and bright, 
and the flowers under good management so 
freely produced, that where a dozen or so of 
varieties are grown the season of blooming may 
extend over several months. The Azaleas are, 
perhaps, the most useful of the allied families 
placed at the head of this paper, but the Rho¬ 
dodendron is indispensable where forced flowers 
are required in spring, and the Indian species 
are well adapted for planting in large cool con¬ 
servatories. Grafted plants are best, and they 
may be obtained of different heights, some 
grafted low down, the lower branches to be 
trained down over the pot, and the others led 
upwards to form a cone or pyramid. Others 
may have stems of different heights up to a yard 
or more. These latter, when their heads have 
attained to some size, are very effective over a 
groundwork of other plants distinct in colour 
and growth. Anyone starting with young plants 
will have to wait a few years for them to become 
large specimens, but every year they will become 
larger, and every year also an abundant crop of 
flowers will be produced. Making a small plant 
into a large one is simply a question of time, 
which the skilled plantsman usually shortens 
considerably by the judicious application of heat 
and moisture during the growing season. 
When the flowering is over, the seeds should all 
be picked off immediately ; the plants should 
then have a good syringing, and either be placed 
in some warmer house to make their growth, or 
else be grouped all together at the warmest end 
of the house, and be kept close till the growth 
is made. After it is completed the plants should 
be cooled down to harden it, and in July, when 
the buds are showing up, place the plants in the 
open air to finish the maturation. They must be 
housed again before the heavy autumn rains 
set in. 

Training. 

Whatever training is necessary should be done 
after the flower buds are set, but the training of 
Azaleas is very often overdone; not only does 
this excessive formality offend the eye, but it 
cramps the growth, and sometimes seriously in¬ 
jures the health of the plants. It is like the tight 
lacing of the human figure : the strongest may 
stand it apparently uninjured, but we have no 
statistics of the number prematurely killed. 

Soil and Rotting. 

Fibiy peat, with about a sixth part of clean 
silver sand, forms the best material for Azaleas. 
Exact quantities, perhaps, should not be stated, as 
peat varies in quality, and less or more sand should 
be used in proportion to its absence or presence in 
the peat. Potting should bo done either just imme¬ 
diately after flowering or just after the growth 
is completed. No plant should have a larger pot 
until the one it occupies is full of roots, but young 
plants should not be allowed to become pot¬ 
bound. Old specimens, if the drainage is clear, 
may be kept in good health for several years 
without repotting, by the judicious use of stimu¬ 
lants, such as Standen’s manure. Great care 
should be used with the drainage ; this work is 
often delegated to the least experienced person 
in the establishment, but in the case of valuable 
plants this is not wise, for the health of the plants 
rests mainly upon its being properly done. The 
Boil must be rammed in firmly. It is scarcely 
possible, if the soil is in a suitable condition, 
to overdo it. The roots are so fine that, unless 
the soil is packed in tightly, they cannot get 
a firm grasp of it; and besides, when plants 


(especially fine-rooted plants) are loosely pot¬ 
ted, the water runs through too quickly, and 
drains away from the ball without moisten¬ 
ing the roots. It is a common practice to place 
Azaleas in vineries or Peach-houses at work to 
make their growth, as at that time there is a 
nice genial temperature in such houses, and the 
syringing encourages the growth of the Azaleas. 
In fact, the conditions which are suitable to a 
growing Vine or Peach tree, are right for the 
growing Azalea; but care should be exercised that 
the Azaleas are free from insects, especially thrips, 
which if introduced into forcing fruit houses may 
give trouble. Fumigation with Tobacco is the 
best remedy for thrips. It should be given two 
or three times on alternate evenings. To make 
clean work of them, damp still evenings are best. 
If the plants stand outside, syringe with soot- 
water that has been mixed in a tub and clarified 
by dropping in a lump of lime. A very good 
wash for Azaleas may be made in this way:— 
Place a peck of fresh soot in a bag, and tie it np 
and drop it in a thirty-six gallon barrel of soft 
water. Stir it occasionally for a week or so, then 
drop in the lime to clarify it; the lime should be 
fresh and unslaked. The lump need not exceed 
l.i pounds in weight, but, as water will only hold 
in solution a certain amount of lime, it is Dot of 
much importance if the lump exceeds the weight 
named. 

Forcing Azaleas. 

If the wood is made and ripened early, Azaleas 
may be had in flower early in spring, and, if 
followed up annually, some kinds may be had in 
blossom before Christmas, beginning first with 
the old white and the small red variety, called 
amcena, and following on with others in suc¬ 
cession. In forcing, it is best to begin slowly, 
and not push too fast the first year, and they will 
gradually work round until, if a sufficient stock 
is kept up, they may be had in bloom at least 
half the year. 

Varieties of Azaleas. 

Alba, Amoena, Admiration, Brilliant, Dis¬ 
tinction, Dr. Livingstone, Chelsoni, Coronata, 
Crispiflora, Criterion, Due de Nassau, Eulalie 
Van Geert, Fielder’s White (the last named 
forces well), Flag of Truce, Gem, Iveryana 
(improved), Le Lion des Flandres, Magnet, 
Mars, Marrjnis of Lome, Model, Mrs. Turner, 
Neptune, Princess Mary of Cambridge, Queen 
Victoria, Sinensis, Sir C. Napier, Stella, The 
Bride, Vesuvius, Vivid, Virginalis, Madame 
Ambrose Verschaffelt. 

Propagation of Azaleas. 

There are three accepted modes of doing this, 
viz., by seeds, by cuttings, and grafting. The 
first-named method is adopted for the raising of 
new varieties, and for stocks for grafting choice 
named kinds upon. The Azaleas strike freely 
from cuttings of the half-ripened young wood 
under a bell-glass, either with or without a gentle 
bottom heat. I have seen these and many other 
hard-wooded plants struck in a shady comer of a 
cool greenhouse under a bell-glass in summer, 
acting under the principle of slow and sure, 
keeping all about them clean and sweet, and 
trusting to time to carry ont the operation, which 
it rarely fails to do in a satisfactory manner. 
The rules laid down for striking hard-wooded 
plants in a previous paper will apply also to 
Azaleas, and need not be repeated here. Also, 
as regards grafting, the treatment there Bet 
down is suitable for this class of plants, and I 
must refer my readers to the article on page 
387. 

Tiie Rhododendron 

is Bimplv an enlarged edition of the Azalea, and 
I am now only referring to the tender Indian 
kinds, which do not flower unless protected by a 
glass roof. They succeed well planted in a bed 
of loam and peat, or peat alone in a cool house, 
or they may be grown in pots or tubs ; the latter 
plan enables us to move them into the open air 
in summer, which gives scope for re-arrangement 
in the house and benefits the Rhododendrons 
at the same time. Rhododendrons are so easily 
cultivated, that no more need be said upon that 
head. Their propagation is chiefly effected by 
grafting the choice kinds upon common varieties, 
which are raised from seeds for the purpose. It 
is an interesting family for the hybridist to 
operate upon—sure to yield him some sort of 
satisfaction. R. aureum splendens, R. ciliatum, 
R. Edgwortbi, R. Countess of Haddington, 
R jasminiflorum, R. Princess Alice, R. Prince of 



Nov. 10, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


40!» 



Spray of the White Lnpagerla (L alba). 


an nnheated greenhouse they will grow and 
flower freely so long as their roots never get 
frozen. Lapagerias do fairly well in pots filled 
with moist, fibrous peat, with the addition of a 
little turfy loam, but they must not on any 
account be allowed to become dry at the roots. 

Planting OUT, however, will be found to be 
the best plan, if there is convenience for so 
doing, as it is less troublesome to the cultivator, 
and gives better results. When planted out in 
a cool, peaty compost, and trained on the roof of 
a partially shaded greenhouse, Lspagerias 
seldom fail to make luxuriant growths and to 
flower abundantly. For glass corridors 6nch 
plants are peculiarly adapted, and never fail to 
bloom well if liberally treated with regard to 
moisture when making their growth. The shoots 
ihould be trained close to the glass, where they 
till flower their whole length. The best plan is 
b stretch wires 4 inches or flinches apart if the 
Erection in which the shoots are to he ' 
tkey should be allowedVtojfVjll' 7 


shaped, waxy flowers, a much better effect is pro¬ 
duced. In sunless places in cool houses even in 
London these plants succeed perfectly, and can 
therefore scarcely be too highly valued. Lapa¬ 
gerias may be planted almost at any time from 
March to October with every prospect of success. 
If plants be obtained from a nursery in pots, 
they should be turned out, and the soil should 
be carefully loosened from the roots, which, 
when clear, should at onoe be laid carefully and 
regularly out in the new compost, covering them 
with 2 inches of fibrous peat rubbed through the 
hands. A good watering should then be given, 
and the soil never after be allowed to become 
ary. 

Propagating —Lapagerias arc generally pro¬ 
pagated by means of layers, but the demand for 
the white variety, which is still sold at rather 
high prices, has induced raisers to try more 
expeditious plans of propagation. Layering is, 
however, the safest plan. The shoots of the 
previous season are simply bent down around 


thereon, with a handful of soot on that 
to keep the worms out. And here I 
must join issue with Mr. Rainford a little, as 
I have found soot an excellent manure for 
Lilies, always giving a top-dressing of it about 
twice during the growing time. If the foliage 
is, through exhaustion of the soil, showing a 
tinge of yellow, it will quickly assume a deep 
glossy hue; and I have noted when repotting 
how the roots at the bottom of the pot seemed 
to have eaten up all the soot placed there the 
previous year. After potting they were placed 
in a cold frame, in the first place giving a 
moderate watering, and were looked to from 
time to time, needing, however, but little atten¬ 
tion in this respect until March. That year they 
bloomed well, and the following autumn they 
were again shifted—this time into a 12-inch pot, 
but carefully avoiding injuring a fibre or dis¬ 
turbing the ball in any way with the exception 
of removing the old drainage. The following 
year they grew with great strength and freedom, 
and gave a grand show of bloom. The following 
autumn, as no further shift was thought advisable, 
they were divided, with the result that seventy 
odd bulbs were taken from that pot, some of 
them, of course, very small, not larger than 
nuts, the largest being as big as a good sized 
cricket ball. This year the stock has increased 
to more than a hundred bulbs, a large propor¬ 
tion of which are of flowering size, all of which 
are the produce of the five bulbs taken in hand 
some three seasons sgo; a fact which shows 


Wales, R. arboreum, R, Veitchianum, R. multi- 
liorum, R. formosam, R. javanicum, R. carneum, 
B. elegantissimum, and many others which I 
might have named, are beautiful hybrid forms, 
but where space under glass is limited, it 
will be better for forcing to depend upon 
plants in pots, and to introduce a sprink¬ 
ling of the hardy hybrids which can be lifted 
from the open ground and potted in autumn 
with buds, and after flowering hardened off 
and planted oat again. Rhododendrons are good 
plants for the town greenhouse; the leaves, being 
smooth and glossy, are easily freed from dust 
aad blacks with the syringe or the sponge. 

E. Hobday. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


THE LAPAGERIA. 

Ip we had a greenhouse, either heated or un¬ 
heated, in which there were only room for one 
climber, we would plant the white Lapageria 
(L. alba). If two plants could be accommodated, 
we would add the rose Lapageria (L. rosea). 
Both will grow well and rapidly when they once | 
get a start, and yield an abundance of wax-like 
blossoms all through the autumn months. A 
greenhouse kept at a temperature of 40° to 45° 
daring winter suits the Lapagerias best, but in 


the parent plant, and pegged on a bed of peat 
and sand, and covered over, leaving the point of 
the layer above the soil. Roots are formed at 
the joints, and several plants sometimes spring 
from the same shoot, springing up like Vine eyes, 
but the points of the shoots usually make the 
strongest plants. When the Lapageria is pro¬ 
pagated by seed—a plan not to be recommended 
—the seed should be sown as soon as ripe in a 
pan of fine soil, covered with a pane of glass, 
placed in a gentle heat, and kept moist. 


CULTURE OF LILIES IN POTS. 
Allow me to supplement Mr. Rainford's excel¬ 
lent cultural instructions with some facts gleaned 
from my own experience in the growth of this 
noble family of hardy flowers. There are few 
flowers of which I would say they should be in 
every garden, but of the Lily I would say this 
much ; and I do not consider any garden, large 
or small, to be well furnished unless some of its 
numerous varieties find a place therein. Some 
three years ago, a friend of mine sent me a pot 
of Lilium speciosum rubrum, and perhaps it may 
serve some good purpose if I give the system of 
treatment followed from the time it came into 
my hands. The pot contained five bulbs, three 
of them beingrubrum, the remaining twoalbum. 
When the stems faded I shifted them into a 
10-inch pot, using very fibrous peat and loam in 
equal parts, with a little thoroughly rotted leaf- 
mould and a goodly share of silver sand. 
I Good drainage was given, a little fibrous peat 


themselves, which they will do—twisting along 
as neatly as possible—without the least 
assistance, except that when more than one shoot 
is allowed to a wire care must be taken to 
prevent the leaves being caught in the twists. 

Training. —To attempt training the shoots 
by ties is troublesome, and not a successful plan. 
Stopping the shoots occasionally induces flowers 
to come sooner than they otherwise would do, 
and produces little spurs, each of which furnishes 
several flowers. When the wires are covered the 
side shoots should be allowed to droop loosely, 
by which means, when thickly laden with bell¬ 

















410 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Nov. 10, 1883. 


how rapidly this Lily may be increased when 
given the right treatment. 

Only a faint idea of the beauty of these Japan 
Lilies is obtainable from the small specimens 
that are commonly grown, and I may safely 
affirm that the above described method of grow¬ 
ing them is the only one by which we can realise 
their full decorative worth. When shifted on from 
year to year without parting the ball of earth 
or separating the bulbs, by the time they come 
into large pots a single specimen is represented 
by quite a collection of bulbs of all sizes. The 
largest throw up tall bold stems, then come 
others not so tall, and so on in a diminishing 
scale of development, terminating in the quite 
small growths of such bulbs as have not come 
to flowering size, the whole forming a luxuriant 
mass of foliage. In the case of such specimens, 
only the tallest stems should be staked in an 
upright fashion, the smaller ones such as carry 
but a half dozen blooms should be allowed some 
freedom, merely supporting them, whilst the 
smallest should be permitted to grow as they 
like. The result of this arrangement is that 
there is a complete absence of the formality 
which is too apt to distinguish pot Lilies in a 
general way when each stem is tied to form a 
rigid straight line, and the base of the plant will 
be well furnished with foliage, even to the extent 
of covering the rim of the pot. There is, I 
repeat, no comparison between such what I 
would term naturaliy-growu plants, and such 
as are composed of a few selected bulbs. They 
are just what one might expect to have u der 
good outdoor culture, and where the bulbs would 
be undisturbed from year to year. Of course, 
from time to time these large specimens have to 
be broken up, and the best way is to divide 
them into two about equal parts, replacing them 
in pots without further disturbance of the roots. 

In spring there is no better place for pot Lilies 
thp.n a tolerably deep frame, where they have 
room to grow until the time comes for placing 
them in the open. From the time they appear 
above the soil, air should be left on night and 
day, only shutting up when there is danger of 
sharp frosts. This night ventilation is of the 
greatest importance, asalittle undue confinement 
will very seriously weaken and draw the stems, 
and I know of no plant which is so quickly 
ruined in this way. By the first week in June 
they should bo in the open air, and during that 
month I think they are not likely to get too much 
sun, but afterwards I like to have them where 
they do not get the sun after midday. Lilies 
seem to like a cool, moist atmosphere during the 
hot summer months, and if one wishes to see 
them in perfection, with broad and lustrous foli¬ 
age of that deep, rich green whicli indicates perfect 
health, they must not be exposed to the full glare 
of the sun during the hottest hours of the day. 
In a north or east aspect they seem most happy. 

By fleet. C. 

Cyclamens infested by grabs.— 

Cyclamens appear to be very liable to the attack 
ol a kind of white grub, and I would advise 
that when the bulbs suffer from it they should 
be shaken quite out of the old soil by the end of 
May, washing the root3 so that every particle of 
mould is cleared off, leaving the base of the 
corms clegn. Then lay thorn in a cold frame, 
using very light, sandy soil, and keeping it just 
moist. In the course of a month fresh roots will 
be produced from the old ones, and direct from 
the underside of the corms, when they may be 
potted. By treating them thus, any eggs or 
iarvaj which may be in the old mould will be got 
rid off, and the plants will be free for the season. 
I am not sure, but I think this grab is the larvae 
of the “June bob,” as it is called here. It is 
about half an inch long, and is in other respects 
much like the May-bug grub. It also attacks 
Strawberries in. pots; I once had a fine lot 
entirely ruined by it, as many as a score of grubs 
being found in a pot.—J. 

lOoiO.— Climbing Ferns.— Potting a Fern 
of that nature and placing it in so large a 
pot is just the way to court failure. Never 
repot Ferns later than the beginning of August, 
and never transfer them from a small to a large 
pot. Ferns do not care for much soil, and when 
shifted it should be into a pot one size larger only. 
The best thing you can do is take the plant care, 
fully out of the_ large pot and replace in one 
just large enon/fi to contain tha repts, using, if 
Any fresh soil l yreg igyl, j a large ad¬ 


mixture of silver sand. Keep the soil just moist 
in winter, and if it grows, shift into the next 
size pot in may or June.—J. C. B. 

10527.— Azaleas losing their leaves. 

—If the plants were so neglected in watering, 
there is no wonder the foliage has dropped. 
Azaleas suffer from drought more than most 
hard-wooded plants, on account of the roots 
being of a hair-like nature. They should be 
kept in a cool house or frapie protected from 
frost, but we would not plunge the pots, as all 
that can be done now is to keep the soil just 
moist through the winter, and during spring 
induce them to make an early growth by syringing 
on fine days, shutting up early in the afternoon. 
If well attended to, they will make their growth 
by the end of July, and may then be placed for 
a month in the open air. Pick off all buds which 
may be on at the present time.—J. C. B. 

- The evergreen Indian Azaleas at this 

season lose a considerable portion of their leaves, 
and as yours “flowered magnificently” there 
is not much the matter with them. Yon have 
done well to syringe with Gishurst for thrips. • 
They would do for some time in a cold frame. 
See that they do not get too dry at the roots.— 
J. D. E. 

10536.— Gloxinias Falling.— The reason 
that the buds fail to open in your conservatory 
is, that the place is not warm enough for them. 
If they are standing on the hot-water pipes, 
that may or may not prove to be further in¬ 
jurious to them. Gloxinias require a moist 
atmosphere and a rather high temperature in 
order that they may flower well.—J. D. E. 

10514. — Plants under stages.— There 
are scarcely any flowering plants that will suc¬ 
ceed under the stages of the greenhouse. The 
best way is to plant a carpet of Selaginella den- 
ticulata, and a few hardy evergreen Ferns 
amongst it, or a plant or two of Farfugium 
grande have a good effect. Some good loam 
and peat is best to grow the whole of them in.— 
J. D. E. 

10557.—Ltlium auratum. — Tho right treatment 
with tills Lily alter flowering, is to allow it to remain in 
tho greenhouse, and not give it too much water at the 
roots. They ought to be repotted about the middle of 
October. L. speciosum roseum ought to be repotted at 
the same time.—J. D. E. 

10564.—Ferns for exhibition.—The best three 
British Ferns for this purpose are Athyrlura Filix-faunina 
plumosum, Lastrea Fflix mas cristata, and Scolopendrium 
vulgare enspum.—J. D. E. 

10547 —Tacsonia not flowering’.—I should prune 
it severely, take away some of the old soil, give fresh 
and a pinch of Clay’s fertiliser, and syringe it well.— 
Stuktton. 


FRUIT. 

APPLE TREES FROM CUTTINGS. 

“ J. H. C.” (Query No. 10165) is misinformed as 
to the raising of Apples from cuttings beiDg 
new, for it is treated of at length in most of the 
old works on fruit culture. Indeed this mode of 
propagation lias been practised as IODg as Apple 
culture has been carried on, more especially in 
the cider growing districts, where the Bnrr Knot 
and some other kinds are regularly increased by 
cuttings. Having myself last year put in some 
good large branches that are now nice bushy 
trees, I recently gave ray experience, not under 
the delusion that it was an original idea, but as 
a useful practice not so widely known as it 
ought to be. In the case cited, every one of the 
shoots put in grew away freely, and I mean 
shortly to try it on a larger scale, for I may 
mention that I only tried it with sorts that form 
wart-like exoresences on the bark, and I observe 
several of my trees are bursting the bark and 
forming these air roots since damp autumn 
weather has prevailed. My plan is to take off 
tho lower branches of pyramid and bush trees 
that have grown in a horizontal position, catting 
them close to the stem with a sharp, small¬ 
toothed saw, smoothing the cut part with a 
knife. A good-sized hole is then made, and the 
base of the branch is planted, with spurs and 
twigs entire, as they keep the top steady- 
better than if the branch is trimmed up in 
ordinary cutting fashion. About 1 foot is inserted, 
and the soil trod in very firmly round it, and the 
top, if not more than 2 feet high, is left entire. 
A partially shaded position is the best, and if 
tho spring is moist and ’bowery, no watering 
will bo needed, but if dry, keep the shoots 
supplied with water until well rooted. They 
may be safely transplanted the following autumn 


to the position they are to occupy, or into 
nursery rows to grow on for future transplanting. 
As to the question of sending selected bundles 
of cuttings, I should not recommend anyone 
trying shoots that have been so treated, as one 
may as well buy rooted trees as cuttings, and it 
must be a very poor Apple district if sufficient 
shoots cannot be procured of kinds proved to 
succeed in the locality. 

As regards the question of growing Apples 
from pips, I may mention that, like the method 
above described, it is more largely practised in 
the cider growing districts than elsewhere, tho 
pips being spread on the soil as they come from 
the cider press; but as no care is taken in hybri¬ 
dising, the produce is only used as stocks 
for better sorts of Apples. That the raising of 
new sorts from pips is successfully carried on by 
many, l need only mention some of the most 
recent additions to the listof Apples,for instance, 
Lane's i’rince Albert, that is acknowledged to be 
a decided acquisition ; Saltmarsh's new Apple 
The Queen, and others; and that amateurs do not 
as a rule try their hand at raising improved sorts 
of frnit is to he regretted, as one good sort of 
Apple added to the list would be something 
worthy of years of patient trial; but adding to 
our already overstocked number of varieties of 
many of the commoner flowers is really doing 
little service to horticulture. If “ J. H. C. "will 
take up, not only the Apple, but other hardy 
fruit, he will find much that is useful and instruc¬ 
tive as he progresses, not necessarily new, bnt 
none the less worthy of practice and of imitation 
by others. James Gboom. 

Seafield Buttery, GDepart. 


Moes-oovered Apple trees.— In cold, 
badly drained soils, Apple trees are very liable 
to have their branches covered with Moss, and 
when this is the case no time should be lost in 
waging war against it directly the leaves are off. 
Freshly slaked lime is a good antidote, and 
choosing dull, damp weather, proceed to dost tie 
trees all over with it, as the smallest particle of 
hot lime will wither up the Moss, and the trees 
will well repay the attention, as they cannot thrive 
when the pores of the bark are choked with 
parasitic growths. After the trees are cleansed 
apply liberal top dressings of manure to ensure 
a healthy growth of young wood. — J, G., 
Hants. 

10532. — Seedling Apple trees. — The 

trees may be allowed to fruit where they are, 
for if planted in an open sunny position and 
allowed to grow unchecked they will usually 
become fruitful in five or six years, but if shoots 
of the young seedlings are taken off nowand 
bedded in soil, and grafted on strong stocks in 
April next, they will probably fruit before the 
parent plant. If the seedlings grow very 
strongly it will be advisable to dig down and 
cut the main roots. This will check growth, and 
induce the formation of fruit buds. If space 
could be spared on a wall, or even close to one 
having a sunny aspect, this would be a good 
position to test seedling Apples, as by insuring 
the thorough ripening of the wood, early fruit- 
fulnes will be induced.—J. G., Hants. 

-Encourago them to form lateral branches ^ 

by cutting the tops. It will not do to prune them 
too much, and they must not be planted in rich , 
soil. If they grow too vigorously they will not 
form fruit buds, but this may be checked by 
lifting and replanting them again in soil that is 
not too rich.—J. D. E. 

10535 —Mildew on Apple trees-H . 

must be a bad case indeed if flowers of sulphur , 
will not destroy it, and as your trees have been ■ 
well attended to, it is difficult to say what ought , 
to be done. Evidently the roots have penetrated , 
a bad subsoil, or, it may be, the ground is not ^ 
well drained. Could you not drain the ground l( 
if that is necessary ? And if the trees are not ( | 
very old, some of the roots that have penetrated I 
deeply in the subsoil may be cut, and some good f 
fresh soil ought to be worked in amongst them. , 
A good plan would be to wash the branches of C 
the trees in winter with soapy water, thickened 1 
with flowers of sulphur and a little soot.— J] 
J. D. E. f 

10549.— Root pruning.— This is the besA 
time to prune the roots of Apple, Pear, anA 
Plum trees, bnt January is not too late. If thA 
trees have been a long time in the same plaf, 
without being disturbed, it would not be wise® j 


Nov. 10, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


411 


!j| cot all the main roots round and under the ball 
}]| at the same time; it would be better to do one 
a| half this year and the other half next.—J. D. E. 
*1 _ 


it VEGETABLES. 

t - 

n Jerusalem Artichokes.- -At this time 
of year these add variety to the list of vegeta- 
a jj gs ; n season, and the plants themselves require 
about the smallest amount of attention of any 
i> vegetable that is cultivated; in fact, I believe 
their freedom from disease and heavy cropping 
habit militate against their beiDg in greater 
request than they generally are. I find this 
Artichoke to be a sun-loving subject, and when 
planted in open, sunny positions, in rows at 
least a yard apart, so that light and air can have 
full play, it is astonishing the quantity of tubers 
that a few plants will mature. It does not need 
manure, but light friable soil, in which the 
tubers are more even and altogether better than 
when in rich ground. As a rule, in private 
gardens the Jerusalem Artichoke is consigned to 
out-of-the-way corners, where nothing else will 
grow, and from want of sun the roots only get 
half matured, and not nearly so well flavoured 
as those grown in suitable places. The Jeru¬ 
salem Artichoke is really a very wholesome and 
good vegetable when well grown and above all 
well cooked. Tomatoes were at one time quite 
as little cared for as the tubers of this Artichoke, 
but now everyone eats Tomatoes. In nothing 
is prejudice more apparent than in the selection 
of what we eat. This Artichoke is still at a 
discount, while many far less nutritions and 
digestible vegetables are much in request.—J. S. 

Wintering Lettuces.— If nearly fit to 
use, Lettuces should now have some temporary 
shelter provided, in case of a sudden visitation 
of frost. If anythin;; in the way of cold frames 
or hand-lights are available, lose no time in 
getting some of the most forward transplanted 
with good balls of earth. If the soil is dry give 
a good soaking of water to settle the roots down, 
and they will hardly experience any check. If 
no kind of glass structure is available, it is a 
very good plan to cover the plants where they 
grow with dry Fern fronds, Asparagus tops, or 
erergreen branches. If put on lightly on the 
approach of severe frost, this covering will keep 
the plants quite safe and help to blanch them as 
well. Endive may be protected in the same way, 
and may be had by careful management through 
the whole winter.for the smaller late-planted crops 
ol both Lettuce and Endive are much less liable 
to injury from frost that such as are nearly full- 
grown. During mild weather in winter the hoe 
should be kept going amongst successional 
crops, to keep them clean and the soil aerated, 
and I find that surface-stirring also helps to 
keep sings at bay. If well attended to, these late 
crops make very rapid growth as soon as the 
days begin to lengthen, and come in most accept¬ 
able for the salad bowl. If a good lot of the 
hardy black-seeded Bath Cos Lettuce is now put 
out close to the foot of a wall or boarded fence, 
they will make useful spring salading. I have 
tried all sorts of winter Lettuce, but as regards 
llavour, hardiness, and other good qualities, I do 
not find any- to equal the old brown Cos. If the 
Cabbage kinds are also required or desired, the 
Man file.-ill Park variety is one that can be relied 
upon.— James Groom, Oosjiart. 

Saving roots of Scarlet Runners.— 
It does not seem to be generally known that 
the roots of Scarlet Runners taken up and stored 
away in any dry place out of the reach of frost 
iu the same way as Dahlia roots, and stored 
when planted out in spring, como into bearing 

i nearly a month earlier than seed sown in the 
ordinary way at the same time. I find it a good 
plan to take up what roots I require and pack 
them closely in leaf-mould in boxes about 2 feet 
deep, then place them under a shelf in the fruit 
room, filling the boxes with wood ashes. Taken 
lout the last week in March and planted C inches 
uunder in a single row, the crowns to be jnst 
revered, a supply of this valuable vegetable may 
ke had three weeks to a month before those 
own in the usual way.— Thomas Martin, 
Zixibury Park. 

.10",53.—Woodlioe in Mushroom bed. 

•eln reply to “ J. E. 0- ,” I have had hundreds of 
v^odlice in my house, and was at a loss to know 


it very fine, and mix it with half a pound of oat¬ 
meal ; place it in little heaps of, say, a teaspoon¬ 
ful on the beds in different parts, and in the 
course of a fortnight they will be all destroyed, 
-fl. S. 

10526 — Disease in Celery —The disease 
in the Celery to which “ S. W. V.” refers is, no 
doubt, caused by the grub of the Celery fly, 
which can be readily seen if held between the 
eye and the light. Most people advise squeezing 
the pest to death between the finger and thumb. 
Oar practice is to pick off the diseased part as 
soon as it appears asa small speck,which is mostly 
at the edge of the leaves. If attended to at this 
early stage, much mischief is prevented. We 
pick off the diseased parts instead of employing 
the ordinary method, because in the early stage 
of the disease it is difficult to destroy the grub 
by pinching, and when the spots are allowed to 
get large it is not easy to find the exact 
whereabouts of the pest. There is another draw¬ 
back to the ordinary custom. It is confusing, as 
it is hard to know which have been operated upon 
and which have not. Our Celery this year has 
suffered from perpetual attacks of the fly from 
June to the present time. Last year it was bad 
enough, but this season it is far worse. Last 
year we managed to get a good crop, but now 
we shall only secure half a crop. In a few days 
after the crop was gone over the plants were 
covered with disease specks again.—L. C. K. 

- The disease alluded to is nothing bat 

the Celery fly, which has been very troublesome 
this year. If you examine the brown spots you 
will find a maggot eating the fleshy part of the 
leaves, inside the skin. Constantly dusting the 
leaves with soot keeps it off. It is too late now 
to do anything.—J. D. E. 

Autumn Glanf Cauliflower.—I lielieve a good 
many people grew Veitch's Autumn Giant Cauliflower, 
but those who do not should make a note of it. Coming 
in at the present time it is invaluable, and the quality 
superb. It can stnnil a good deal of frost —J. Robert¬ 
son. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

10057. Lilium auratum and speciosum. 
—By this time (he flowering stems of these 
Lilies will have decayed, and that is the right 
period for repotting them—that is to say, if they 
need it, which they only do when the soil is 
completely packed with roots—otherwise they 
may be allowed to remain the second year in the 
same pots, and if well attended to, they will 
bloom very well. For compost, take fibrous 
peat and a little loam for auratum, and half of 
each for speciosum, adding in each case a good 
amount of silver sand. Turn the plants out care¬ 
fully, extracting the old drainage without 
injuring the roots, put a little fibrous material 
on the new drainage, then a handful of soot to 
keep worms out, then a little soil. Press the 
fresh compost firmly in round the ball, and leave 
if you can a space of about 2 inches from the 
rim of the pot, so as to allow of top-dressing in 
summer; give a moderate watering, and store 
away for the winter in a cold frame or in a cool 
greenhouse, hut the latter is not so good a place, 
as the filing to keep out frost excites the bulbs 
prematurely, and they are apt to draw up and 
become weak. When they start into growth in 
spring give air night and day, except when 
there is danger of frost. If we have no frame 
room for ours, we place them against the wall 
of a glasshouse and cover with a mat at night, 
and thus circumstanced they make a very strong, 
sturdy growth. Later on we place them where 
they get no snn after midday; if grown in the 
full sun the foliage does not come to snch a fine 
colour as when its strongest rays arc warded off. 
-J. C. 15. 

10534. -Thrips -It is inattention to little 
cultural details that causes plants to be badly 
affected with this insect. It ought never to be 
allowed to increase to the extent of seriously 
affecting the health of the plants. As a rule, a 
too confined and dry atmosphere is the cause 
of its appearance. Azaleas are particularly 
liable to be attacked during the winter 
season, and often lose ranch of their foliage 
if prompt measures are not taken. The best 
way is to examine each plant well at hous¬ 
ing time, and should there bo any signs of 
tire presence of this pest the foliage should he 


htti to get rid of them until I tried the folipw- 
inj : Take one ounce of sug^r of Jjertjl at i^*rji^d > 


i -1 well washed with some insecticide. In the case 
d" of plants having large or tender foliage, the best 


way is to sponge them well with weak Tobacco 
water. If done two or three times in tne course 
of a month, very few will remain. Where the 
leaves are too small and numerous to allow of 
washing them individually the plants, should be 
laid on their sides, and the under sides of the 
leaves well washed with the syringe. In order 
to avoid wasting the liquor, lay the head of the 
plant over a tub, which will catch all that drips 
from the leaves. Fowler's insecticide, at the 
rate of 2 ounces to the gallon, is much used now, 
bat Tobacco is efficacious. Pour boiling water on 
4 ounces, strain it, and add water to the amount 
of a gallon.—J. C. B. 

30559.—Vallota purpurea.—If the bulbs 
arc the size of a moderate sized Onion they 
ought to bloom, but if they are smaller than 
this they must be grown on freely. We think, 
however, that the failure arises through wrong 
treatment, for we have plants which have this 
year flowered in 2-inch pots. Keep the plants in 
a light position in a cool greenhouse, and only 
water when the soil is quite dry. In April, when 
fresh leaves form, turn them out of the pots, 
and if the roots look discoloured, shake away all 
the old soil, cut away the decayed parts, and 
give the plant a fresh start by putting it into a 
pot just large enough to contain the roots, using 
peat and loam in lumps about the size of a nut, 
with plenty of silver sand. Be sure and give 
good drainage, and water very moderately until 
the pot becomes tilled with roots. Place them 
near the glass on inverted flower pots in the full 
sun, and where all through the summer theyget 
plenty of air. They will not need shirting for 
several years; they arc better in a root-bonnd 
state.—J. C. B. 

10563.—Oobsea scandene — Under glass 
Cobam scandens grows to a great size, and lives 
for many years. It is owing to its capacity for 
rapidly covering a large space that the Cobma 
is valued as a climber, for in very large conser¬ 
vatories it looks well wreathed around the pillars 
and columns and allowed to hang in graceful 
festoons; the variegated variety is very pretty, 
and as they do well in cool houses, they are 
largely grown, although the flowers are not very 
showy. In the southern parts of the kingdom 
the Cobaia does well on open walls during sum¬ 
mer, and very slight protection makes the old 
wood qnite safe for the winter, and if pruned 
in as soon as the hard weather is over it will 
cover a large space of wall the second year.— 
J. G., Hants. 

10338—Making a hotbed.—The manure 
generally used for making hotbeds is stable 
manure from one week to one month old if you 
can get it. Mix an equal quantity of leaves with 
the manure; by doing so the heat is more equable 
and stands longer; mix the manure and leaves 
well together. After an interval of three or four 
days turn over; a few days afterwards yon may 
make a hotbed. Your frame is 6 feet by 3 feet, 
then make your bed 9 feet by 6 feet; drive a 
stout stake in at each corner before commencing, 
to guide you in keeping the corners square. 
Make the bed rather firm, finishing off with a 
slope to the south; making a pit (say) 3 feet 
deep would be a great advantage in winter.— 
COWDENICNOWES. 

105G0.— Grass seed —The very best plan 
is to make known your requirements to some 
well known seedsman noted for grasses, say 
Sutton or Carter. It is too late to sow now. If 
you let the second week in September pass, yon 
will not succeed until the second week in March; 
between that t ime and the second week in April 
the grass should succeed well. Whatever you 
do sow thickly, and let me add, from considerable 
experience, that unless you can carry ont the 
instruction for lawn making yourself, be very 
careful how you trust an ordinary jobbing 
gardener, for although sowing grass seed is very 
simple, there is not one ordinary gardener in 
twenty who, if he knows how, will take the 
trouble to do the work properly.— Rustic. 

10524.—Enclosing a verandah.—I have 
recently purchased a house with a somewhat, 
similar back to that mentioned by “ Tyro,” only 
larger. I enclosed the verandah (4 feet wide) 
by adding a glass front 8 feet wide anil 
20 feet long, thus making me a conservatory 
20 feet by 12 feet. I cannot give the details of 
the work, because I employed a proper builder 
to do it. But I wish to say that, being at. the 
back of my house, it never occurred to mo to 



412 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Nov. 10, 1883. 


mention it to our surveyor, Nevertheless, he 
saw the work in progress without offering any 
objection, and I venture to think he would have 
thought twice before speaking objectionably 
about such a trifling matter.—R ustic. 

10570.— Improving a lawn.— The light¬ 
ness of the soil is probably the chief cause of 
the unsatisfactory state of the lawn. I would 
repeat the application of stable manure, and in 
the spring sow some good Grass seed. The 
Daisies and large weeds should be cut out with 
a knife or sharp-pointed trowel, and the Grass 
kept well cut and rolled, never allowing it to grow 
too long before cutting. Indeed this is the most 
important point to attend to in obtaining a 
close and velvety sward. Top-dressings of rich 
soil will be beneficial, such as any old finely 
sifted potting soil that may be available, applied 
at intervals during the season.—K., Hornsey. 

10569. — Plants for gas - lighted 
rooms.—It is no doubt a deprivation to be un¬ 
able to keep flowering plants in gas-lighted 
rooms, but one that must be put up with so long 
as the gas is used as a lighting medium. The 
Indiarubber seems to be the best plant for the 
purpose; the Aspidistra will also stand a gassy 
atmosphere well, but these are not of course 
flowering plants. We get over the difficulty by 
taking the plants from the room to the hall 
outside when the gas is lighted, and where there 
are not many to remove it is worth the little 
trouble required, especially as there is no choice 
between either doing this or having no flowers 
at all.—K., Hornsey. 

10577.— Plante for heated room —Many 
greenhouse plants would flower in a stove-heated 
room before a large window looking south-west, 
but a Passion flower would not be likely t-o 
succeed trained on the room wall; it certainly 
would not flower. Chinese Primulas, dwarf Chry¬ 
santhemums, Solanums, and Hyacinths,would do 
well, also zonal Geraniums ; these would flower 
far into the winter. Should the atmosphere of 
the room become too dry, a pan of water should 
be placed on the stove. A temperature between 
50° and 60° will be suitable.—K., Hornsey. 

10551.— Climbers for fence.— If the 
situation is fairly suDny you ought to have such 
Roses as Gloire de Dijon, Lamarque, and one 
or two Teas, such as Homere, Madame Falcot, 
and Safrano. An excellent climbing shrub is 
Ceanothus Gloire de Versailles, with numerous 
blue flowers, and there are Escallonia macrantha 
and Pyrus japonica in white and red varieties, 
also Pyrus Maulei. Other suitable subjects are 
.Jasminum nudiflorum and officinale. If you 
want bright evergreen foliage, take the golden 
Euonymus, also the silver-leaved variety, radi- 
cans.—J. C. B. 

10533.— Law respecting gardens —In 

the absence of any agreement to the contrary, 
your landlord cannot turn you out without proper 
notice, which should be six months, to expire at 
the same time of the year as your tenancy com¬ 
menced. You cannot legally remove trees or 
shrubs without permission. If your landlord is 
unreasonable, you should exact the proper 
notice, and take care of your flowers before the 
time expires.— Rustic. 

10585.— Carnations not flowering.— 
Possibly they are growing in poor unmanured 
soil, or in some unsuitable situation. I would 
suggest striking a number of layers next season, 
rooting up the old plants after removal of the 
layers, and planting the rooted layers in rich, 
deeply stirred soil, in an open, sunny position, 
and it will be strange if they do not flower pro¬ 
fusely.—K. Hornsey . 

10562.— Mending percha tubing.— Fill 
the tube with sand, get a penny gutta-percha 
whip, melt in a candle or spirit-lamp, heat the 
tube, and plaster over it. When cold run the 
sand out again. Any waterproof article can be 
repaired and made good by pasting strips of an 
old mackintosh on with waterproofing solution 
sold by W. Pelt, 3, Bull Ring, Birmingham. 


—The apple trees mentioned can be got at any good 

nursery in which fruit trees are cultivated for Bale. - 

J. Full.—Queen of England Chrysanthemum is a large 
flowering incurved variety. 

Horticulturist.— Burbridge’s “ Domestic Floriculture,’’ 
published by Messrs. Blackwood & Son, London and 

Edingburgh.- E. T .—You had better purchase a copy 

of “ Mushroom Culture,” published at our office, price 

Is. 6d., postage extra.- J. J. EUwell .—You do not give 

your address, so we are unable to send reply to complaint 
made.- Eitite.— Kindly repeat your query. 

Names of ft*uit8— E. A.—l, Alfriaton; 2, Court 

Pendu Plat; 3, BeurreCapiaumont.- J.K .—We cannot 

name from one specimen, and that a half decayed one. 

- A ah.— 3 and 6, King of the Pippins; 5, Court Peudu 

Plat; 8, Ribstone Pippin ; 10, Lady ’s Fiuger; 12, Golden 
Harvey. Others cannot be named from one specimen 

only.- T. E. D— Pears, 1, Marie Louise ; 2, Glou Mor- 

ceau ; 4, Apple, Hollandbury Pippin.-S. A. <?.—We 

think the Grape labelled is Black Champion. The other 
is Black Hamburgh, as you state. 

Names of plants —J?. A. Butterton.— 1 and 2, As- 

E lenium bulbiferum : 3, Cyrtomium faleatum ; 4, Pelliea 

astata.- M. S. C.— Hedychium Gardnerianum.- 

O. T. D .—Pyrus japonica, not poisonous, but of little 

value.- R. Ross.— 1, send when in flower ; 2, Festuca 

duriuscula; 3, stellaria Holostea; 4, send next season ; 

probably a Lychnis.- Douglas. — Schlzoatylis coccinea. 

- W. Beaton. — Itochea falcata- A Beginner.— 2, 

Kleinia ropens; 3, Mesembryan them urn cordifolium 

variegatum ; 4, Troslne Horbsti.- M. E. Elgood .— 

Hoemanthus pubescens, Rhodea japonica variegata. 


Pear tree in bloom — Dover.— There are many 
Apple and Pear trees in bloom this autumn. The mild 
weather has, no doubt, caused the earliest ripened buds 
to open. 

Moving Rose trees —Constant Reader.— You may 
remove them at once with perfet safety. 

Derby Dilly.—U you send us a specimen of the Apple 
we might be able to name it, but we cannot do so from 
your description oLit ^—A Constant-Jteader .—You had 
better take legal, advice respecting Bronx show house. 

F.V. Humphrey. 


better take legal advice reaped 
M uch depends on lit* n^sitwn,«: 



QUERIES. 

Rules for Correspondents— All communica¬ 
tions for insertion should oc clearly and concisely written 
on one side qf the paper only a tul addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
and address qf the sender is required , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the jxipcr. Answers to Queries | 
should always bear the number and title qf the query 
ansioered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece qf paper. Owing to the necessity qt 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day qf publication , it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they arc received. Queries not 
ansicered should be sent to us again. 

Naming plants. — Four plants, fruits, or flowers only 
can be named at one time, and this only when good 
sjKcimens are sent. We do not undertake to name 
tariff tea qf florists' flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
sjwcialist who has the means of comparison at hand. Any 
communication respecting plants or flowers sent to name 
should always accompany the parcel. 

10598.—Slow combustion stoves - I have no 
doubt there are many readers like myself who, having 
tried the above and failed with them, would be glad of 
any additional information how to 'manage them ; and 
noting the apparent marked success that “J. C. Leek” 
has met with in his, perhaps he would favour ua with 
fuller particulars as to how his is fixed. Does the draught 
door face door of house or not ? Are there square or round 
elbows, and what on top of pipe,how lighted aud charged 
for the night, with particulars of fuel? Last year I 
bought a No. 0 Albion, and after one month’s use dis¬ 
posed of it and purchased a No. 1 improved Albion. I 
could get neither to go, the fire invariably hanging up or 
completely firing out if extra draught was left on to ob¬ 
viate it. Mine were fixed sideways to door, round elbows 
to give clear draught—all to no purpose; have now rigged 
up the pipes with a lamp under as a radiator, but am 
contemplating building a larger house—about 14 feet by 
6 feet, and if worth the trouble would like to give it 
another trial, as I only keep out damp and frost when 
required.—J. T. F. 

10699.— Carnations.— Gardening has contained 
several interesting answers lately with respect to Carna¬ 
tions. I began to cultivate these lovely flowers last 
year, but was only moderately successful, and am one 
among, I believe, many who would welcome & full and 
exhaustive article on Carnations and Picotees : their clas¬ 
ses and cultivation. Your correspondents’ answers were 
wanting in the following points : -<1) The names of none 
of tho beautiful yellow-white, Ac , self-coloured Carna¬ 
tion were given; (2.) yellow and white ground Picotees 
were not distinguished. Are Tree Carnations adanted for 
outdoor cultivation ? Is it possible to grow exhibition 
flowers without a greenhouse?—LANCASHIRE Witch. 

iceoo.—The Dog Rose from cuttings. — Will 
someone please tell me whether the Dog Rose can be 
propagated by cuttingB ? It is an awkward customer to 
dig bodily out of a hedge, whilst cuttings can be easily 
taken. I am anxious to get some stock for budding on 
next summer, and have just planted several cuttings; 
the question is, will they root ? I have had no experience 
of English gardening, but in India (Bangalore) I have 
been accustomed to bud from fifty to one hundred Roses 
every season. There I always budded on the Rose 
Edward, and removed short by Chinese grafting — a 
system my gardener here aeems never to have heard of. 
—Dubio. 

loooi.—Plants for covered paseage —Will some 
one kindly inform me whether there are any evergreen 
climbers or other tall growing plants (also evergreen) 
snitable for a covered way, 18 feet by 4 feet, leading from 
the dwelling-house to the greenhouse ? One side is a brick 
wall on which Moss and Ferns grow well. The top and 
other side are wood. There are three windows in the 
woodwork and a door at either end, so that ihere is air 
but no sun, consequently nothing we have yet found 
grows well. I want it covered inside with greenery.— 
PERPLEXED. 

10602.—Chrysanthemums changing colour.— 
In the spring of this year I took, amongst others, some 
half dozen cuttings from a perfectly white Chrysanthe¬ 
mum. To my surprise, though they have all made good 
plantH and arc well covered with bloom, all of the flowers 
utmiiatakeably are pink, not a sien of a white flower on a 
single plant. |Will you kindly tell mo if this alteration ot 


colour is at all usual ? Is it caused by poverty of the soil 
I presume the plants have deteriorated, but why should 
they throw back to pink ? I had an idea that yellow was 
the colour of the parent stock.—G. S. 

10603.—Tulip bulbs.—Turning over an article on 
Tulips in a floral publication, I see the writer 
assumes that because his “breeders'’ broke well when 
he had well manured below, manure does not tend to 
flush the colours. But if this year’s bloom was of last 
year’s growing, this year’s soil will have little, if any¬ 
thing, to do with it but size Is it not the fact that the 
bulb you plant now contains next year’s bulb in embryo, 
and that this growg at the expense of the old bulb, 
which perishes annually?—J. 

10604.—Neglected garden plot.—Can anyone 
oblige me with particulars of what is best to be done with 
a bit of ground about 40 feet by 30 feet at the back of my 
house, which has been neglected? I cannot, or do not 
care to call in a person to put it in order, bnt wish to do 
It myself; the ground is hard, and is full of worms ; what 
shall I do to remove them ? If I sow Grass seed all over 
it, what preparation does it require? Also, having s 
large quantity of Pelargoniums from the London parks, 
how can I preserve them for growing next year?—J. M. 

10605. —Gladioli beds.—I am planting some small 
beds in a kite-hen garden with various Gladioli, about two 
dozen bulbs in a bed 12 feet by 2 feet. At present I am 
planting only the early-flowering sorts. I snail be very 
much obliged for advice as to what I can sow or plant at 
once upon such beds that will not interfere with the 
Gladioli, and will tastefully cover the ground until they 
are coming up aud after they are over, if practicable, as 
I propose leaving these Gladioli in the same position for 
some two or three years.—J. H. H. 

1C606. —Quick hedge*.—In turning over an old vol¬ 
ume of Gardening, I find a Quick hedge specially com¬ 
mended for its beauty, and one of the reasons given was 
that the gardeners had been careful to inarch it from 
its earliest stage. Will you be good enough to describe 
the process of inarching, as 1 have a hedge of Quicks, 
Holly, and Beech, which was planted about three years 
ago aud has not been touched since except to clean the 
ground at the roots? How should I proceed to trim it?— 

J. W. T. 

10607.—Setting boilers.—I should be very glad if 
some reader would give me information how to set up 
and connect water pipes (for heating greenhouse) to 
saddle boiler, 24 feet by 12 feet by 12 feet. Will one 
straight length of flow and return heat a house 15 feet by 
7 feet, pipes being 2 inches; and what is the cost of 
fuel per week, and what kind used ? I want all the par¬ 
ticulars I can get, as I know nothing about boilers— 
never having seen one In position.—J. A, O. W. 

10608—Treating Vines.—How should I treat a 
Vine that is trained against the roof of a cold greenhouse 
facing south-west ? It lias been regularly pruned, appears 
to be in perfect health, free from insects, but yet only 
gives about six bunches of Grapes per year. The root is 
outside the greenhouse in a comer formed by a high 
brick wall I have plenty of fowl refuse, which I see one 
of your correspondents recommends. Would a mulching 
of this do good ?— Ignoramus. 

10609.— Planting a Peach-house.— I intend build¬ 
ing a cold Peach-house as a lean-to; length, 51 feet 6 
inches; width, 12 feet 9 inches ; rafters, 15 feet. Bow- 
many trees should be planted in that length of house 
—the Peaches to be trained on wires, like Vines, close to 
the glass? Should thoy bo planted inside with arches in 
front wall to allow the roots to get out, or in the front 
border and the Btems brought inside the house?— Black 
North. 

10610.—Vegetables for exhibition.—I shall feel 
obliged for tho names of tho best vegetables for exhibi¬ 
tion, together with tho best time for sowing each to 
come to perfection by middle of September—Carrots, 
Parsnips. Onions, Turnips, Broccoli, or Cauliflower ? 
Which of tho two last sorts would be more suitable? — 
Northampton. 

10611.—Mushrooms for market.—Is it possible to 
grow Mushrooms in a largo way in sheds for market pur¬ 
poses profitably ; also is there a continual market for 
them in London or elsewhere, and what is the average 
price obtained ? I should be glad of any information.— 

F. S. 

10612 .—Roses not blooming.—I have some twenty 
small China and Tea Rose trees planted close to the wall 
in a southern border. They have been there for the past 
three years, and have never bloomed well. Will anyone 
kindly give me sorao advice about them ?—A Constant 
Reader. 

10613.—Camellia leaves turning brown.—My 
Camellias, which are well set with buds and well lur- 
nished with large leaves, appear to be attacked by some 
kind of disease. The leaves become spotted with large 
brown spots, also the leaves turn brown at the edges and 
drop of!.—ANON. 

10614.—Roses in boxes.—Will someone kindly tell 
me the names of a hardy white, cream, and salmon 
coloured Robo that would grow up the side of a home 
facing north and sheltered by two walls ? There is only 
a little sun in the morning. I want them to grow in 
boxes two feet square.— Waiting in a Fog. 

10615.—Shrubs for the seashore.—! should be 
obliged by being informed the names of some hardy 
shrubs that would stand the sea air. The garden In 
which they would be placed Is about three minutes’ walk 
from the sea.—M. M. 

106L6.—Paraffin lamp for beating propagating 

frame.—Cau anybody tell me of any lamp for the above 

S urpose that will burn for a day without attention ? I 
ave tried several, all of which were extinguished in a 
short time by the accumulated Boot.— Amateur. 

10617. — Wintering Begonias. — Will someone j 
kindly give me some information about Begonias ? Should. J 
they be cut down for the winter, should the hulhs V»o 
kept dry or regularly watered, and what kind of soil 
best to grow them in?—B. J. R. 

10618.—Price of timber.—Having more trees in i. 
garden than I want, I should be glad to know how 
estiraate approximately the selling value of some go 



Nov. 10, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


413 


OaJc and Aah trees, or to know of some book that would and is valuable when the stock appears to 
, Jiff* . ,, . . . . suffer from rough weather, or during moult, 

oftteabora^iil Barley or ground oats should form the staple 

tlvation and treatment. At present it has no buds on soft foods, and for a change, middlings Or fine 


ik -— A Constant Reader. sharps, ground maize (scalded preferred), 

19620 .—Alpine Auriculae. — I should feel gTeatly and Spratt’s poultry meal. With either of these 
obliged if Mr. Douglas, or some other Auricula grower, may be mixed potatoes, maDgel wurzel, or 
WiBaftBatWiSSJ d0 “ U 01 the larni P 9 wel1 boiled and “ashed, not constantly, 

_„ _. . _ .. but say once or twice a week, and as an addition 

»meOTegh?mi pMU™i a ri , M n mtS^mie b o?^atherTi" to the ordinary quantity of meal, not as a sub¬ 
soil planting Privet and Hawthorn berries, and how long stitute for a part of it, as there is very little 
they are generally before they germinate?— Erkisst. nutriment in either of these vegetables suitable 


10623.—Polyanthuses—Will anyone inform me if to growing or laying stock. Never, as advised 
it U poaaihle to get the following Polyanthuses, viz., by some, give grain which has been soaked in 
Lord Crewe (Clegg), Defiance (Fletcher), AlexandcrfPear- cn_ .v __ ..._. ... 


1STOW 


GARDEN ANNUAL, 

Almanac, and Address Booh 

For 1884. 


water; it “only Ills the crop, without the bird .. 

10633. - Manuring Hose trees. -Will anyone T the water absorbed PRICE ONE SHILLING, 

kindly tell me if a tablespoonful of Clay’s fertiliser is too grain. Malt may be given for a Change, 

much or too little to put to a Rose tree to manure it?— and fowls are very fond of it, likewise malt dust, POBt free Is. 3d. 

Cosstaht Reader. which, when sprinkled on the soft food, generally 

—i2 6 i 4 'I7K Jle ^ nlD8r t^ alte ?'“ w . hat v Ca ^ 11 t0 clea ^ acts as a whet to the appetite. Never give bran, 

gravel paths of weedB previous to havim? them fresh •*. • a & 

era veiled ? Mine are more like a cram* nlnt. than trrovoi ^ 18 worse than nothing. ANDALUSIAN. This is the most cnmnlato anH a^nimta VaovU, 


gravel paths of weeds previous to having them fresh T- IC IZ- 1 

gravelled ? Mine are more like a grass plot than gravel 14 18 wor9e than nothing. Andalusian. This is the most complete and accurate Yearly 

paths.— IGNOBAMBS. - .... p , J 

1C625.—Protecting- Pansies.—Should Pansies have 1 AA ORNAMENTAL FLOWERING Ke£erence Book for the use of all interested in 

any protection from frost in the winter; if so, what is LOU BHRUB3 and Conifers for 7s., carriage paid; Gardens yet published The alDhabetical linta 
the best thing to nse J-PANSV. heieht, 8 in. to 3 ft; inoluding Retinoaporas, Pimm Pioeai J puujmueu. sue aipnaDetlCai lists 

10626 .—Plums and Damsons -Can I graft Plums lp *“%-, 4o '& 0 . , * 1Uy ;i o£ all branches of the Horticultural Trade liave 

on the Sloe or Blackthorn stock ; also, do Buliaee and “‘rongl, rooted, half lot, ts.-HENRY A CO., Chigweil _ 

Damson suckers require grafting?—E rnest. Row, Esgex._ been corrected up to date. The lists of Gardens 

_ T APAGERIA ALBA (true), 20in. toSOin , 7s.; and Country Seats have been very carefully 

AJ L. rosea. Is. 4d. each; winter-blooming Begonia?, six, . J 

POTTLTR'V l 8 - : Deatzift mcilis. six. is. 2d.; double Deutzia, four, is. ; revised, while the list of Gardeners is entirelv 

' Ivy, silver variegated, three. Is.; Passiflora coerulea, four, . J 

- la 2d.: Honeysuckle, scarlet, do. white, four, is. 2d.; re-written, and the Post Towns added with the 

nTTATJPP ni? U’omv climbing Roses, three vara., four. Is. 2d.; all very strong 

LiiAJNUb Uh rUOD. ^ plants. Free .—henry 100 ., obigweii Row, Essex. greatest care and attention, and now forms the 

change of both°gra“^nd^el7 ^^18^^663 BULBS, &o., PROM IRELAND^ most complete list ever published. The Garden 
to expect any long continuance of health or rss pajcels post nut # a Annual may be ordered through all Booksellers, 

prolificacy, if they be strictly limited to one 13 for 12 named Hynoinths, fine bulbs . 6 o Nursery men, and Seedsmen. It contains, among 

kind of food, bet we have seen many poultry m i. _.Al— 76 . . 


POULTRY. 

CHANGE OF FOOD. 

There is no donbt that poultry require frequent 
change of both grain and meal, and it is useless 
to expect any long continuance of health or 


BULBS, &o., PROM IRELAND. 

PER PARCELS POST FREE. 

. _ .... t „ Ad. 


double, manyBorta 3s. 6d. - Windflowers . „ „ . . 

single seedlings 2 s. j of S.of France A carefully-compiled Alphabetical List of Nursery- 


jund of food. Yet we have seen many poultry Joo spWW bedding Hyacinth (not auction siuff, aV 7 6 other matters the following vW - 
keepers who give their birds nothing but whole sold In London; we have no sucA in Cork; we er matters » ttlc following, MZ..— 

barley morning and evening, from year's end to ;; " ;; ;; “ <j Almanac for the year 18 S 4 . 

years end, and then wonder that they do not 12 Dwarf Persian Tulips, lovely yeiiow bloom, like a 

thrive. On the other hand, many kinds of food yeUowHortenae Anemone. 16 Concise Calendar of Gardening Operations 

most useful as a change, would prove anythiug “ Ue . C .‘° r U 0 for each month, 

but beneficial if given continuously. Poultry 12 Trumpet maximus Narcissus, my own selection. I _ 

food consists of two kinds, hard and soft. The 2 6 Frulte ' aBd Ve « etabl e8 Procurable each 

former IS whole gram unground or crushed, and 12 Anemone fulgens, special offer 2s. S The scarlet u-omn. 

tte latter includes all kinds of meal and pulse, jjj ” cln^MedU^" 1 * a! M ' JcTs!mm« a carefully-compiled Alphabetical Llstof Nursery- 

The staple grain should be either barley or buck- JOO French Meladore Ranunculus. ..6 0 mfln aiifi it ., i. . 

wheat, but owing to the uncertain suddIv of the J2°,„ ,, , ic'sorts <o name, special selection .. 10 o men mid Seedsmen, Florists, Horticultural 

i AA. • *. • ? . , . - f ” ’’ 80 Gladiolus The Bride, my own growing, fine bulbs 7 6 Builders Enginanra and nf thsUnrtlf'nlt’nral 

latter, it is not m much demand by poultry ioo iris choice English, most admirable sorts, per 100.. 7 0 m luors, ciDgmeers, ana oi tne Horticultural 

fanciers. It is, however, capital feeding, and 100 Id j5^/ rench 8nd ctannel IfllaDd «>rts in Trade generally. 

the idea entertained by many that unless it be loosparaxis do do per ioo, from 7s. to 10 o The Principal Gardens and Country Seats in 

of the very best of its kind, the fowls will not 12 8carlet and 12 green Ixiaa, free for . 2 6 . ,, Seats In 

tr>urH it is nnife withont fnimrlotlnn -t> Q -i^ 50 ChionodoxaLuciliio. The Glory of the Snow, new .. 6 0 Great Britain and Ireland, arranged in the order of 

toucb It, IS quite Without foundation. Sarley, 13 for 12 Freesia Leichtlinl, lovely yellow! sweet- tho * 

however, can always be had at a fair price, and scented flowers for pots .3 0 tne tountie8 * extended and corrected to date. 

TJ** t 5? V nl e ?f7, 1 day f in the pr °P° rtion of Alphabetical List of Country Seats and 

thirds to one third of some Other gram, the 1883 •• A gigantic candelabrum-like spike of the Olympian Gardens in the United Kingdom, with Names of 

latter vaned from time to time, say once a Mul.lem, from Professor Fosters garden at Shelford, .. . ^ , 0 

fortnisrht Next to barlev romps wheat whiVh g ambl }5 g ^ ^ been brought to us by Mr. Peter their Owners, very much extended, and corrected 

rortnigaiu rtext to oaney comes wheat, which Barr; the length of the stem is 5J feet, and from two-thirds to dat« 

IS generally dearer, and although more nutritious, ot thi8 length numerous branches are given off. varying in 

we donbt whether it would prove so beneficial in lSfS 0 , S m ol 1 <^ 0 fcrigh« ^ow'^/ S’^''leavSl'^ 0 ™ Alphabetical List of Head Gardeners In the 

XStoT forming boThTesh" and maile °" th “' ba lted Kingdom, re-written 

rapidly Oats'we should never use as a hard HARTLAND’S Old Established SEED WAREHOUSE, with nearest PoBt TownH added. 

food, but when ground, especially whole and 24, PATRICK STREET, CORK. New Plants which have received Certiacates.from the 


pecliiselection'.; io 0 men and Seedsmen, Florists, Horticultural 

SSScUSJSSwo" 7 o BuUders, Engineers, and of the Horticultural 

Island'sorts in' Trade generally. 

.. from 7s. to 10 0 

per ioo, from 7s. to 10 o The Principal Gardens and Country Seats in 
the Snow, new .. 6 0 Great Britain and Ireland, arranged in the order of 

t yellow, sweet- the Counties, extended and corrected to date. 


food, but when ground, especially whole and 24, PATRICK STREET, CORK. New Plants which have received Certiflcal 

with the husk all in, they are not to be beaten pHOICE HARDY PERENNIAL FLOWERS itoJ ' aI Horticultural and Royal Botanic Si 
as a soft food. Indian corn or maize should 0 * fflittfflower b«d£ AT A OHBAP BATE?- ’ T „ „ 

only be used sparingly, more especially with 20 sorts at 3j. per doz. ranters Tables, Full and Practical. 

he fiPij brC< tf S R u Ch as , t,ie Brahma or Cochin, but 8nd BeTeraI , tm cheaper'.' List'of sorts may he had if re- Tables of Seeds and for Seed Sowing, 
with Ham OUrgns and such like, more may be quired of any number not lees than Bix of a sort 

iwi'ee. O’L.Jc _A_ .. si flBI.IVKRF.D KRKF. tn anv nj?rlrraa ran w £ /i«i r\ fliiantitina of Hwane. r_• . 


principal Gardens of the United Kingdom, re-written 
with nearest Post TownH added. * 

New Plants which have received Certiacates.from the 
Royal Horticultural aud Royal Botanic Societies. 
Planters' Tables, Full and Practical. 


given. This grain is very liable to cause' the deliyerrd free to any address on receipt of P,o. Quantities of Grass Seeds for various Areas. 

patting on of excessive internal fat, which is - Gm ^ LoDj ° a - _ Draining and Fencing Tab,™ 

often the cause of a whole train of maladies, Tha GrGGnhoil^fl and Rnrrlfir 8 Tables. 

such as apoplexy, crop-binding and egg-binding, AGO UlbBIlilUUbO dHU B Order Timber, Brickwork, Tank, and other useftf. 

and when it is remembered that maize contains f _I_ i j I ixi u . A measurement., 

no less than 72 per cent, of Btarch or oil, itis not W 

to be wondered at. Most decidedly it is not a fiftT T VflTTrtW r\f T5TTT T5 5 Hot-water Pipes, their Contents and Weights, and 
good food for laying stock, except in very wWidiUilw X LVAl wl fiUwfiii Calculated Headng Power. 

small quantities. It is affirmed by EOme that Consisting of bulbs selected for both Indoors and outside in Wslehts«n,i . _ . 

it causes the plumage of white fowls to taclndingthe beautiful ne, blue WooS Weights and Meaeures-hngUsh, and their Foreign 

,v._ ,, :: 10 Anemone Robinsom, Chionodoxa Lucilin. Galanthus Equlvnlenta. 

ssaume the objectionable yellow tinge so Elweii, and DondiaEpipoctis 

prevalent in these birds, and when we Carriage and Package Free. Money—Ready Reckoning, Wages, and Calculating 


The Greenhouse and Border 
G-TTITsTE]^ 

COLLECTION of BTJLB5, 


Quantities of Grass Seeds for various Areas. 
Draining and Fencing Tables. 

Timber, Brickwork, Tank, and other useftf, 


measurements. 

Hot-water Pipes, their Contents and Weights, and 
Calculated Heating Power. 


prevalent in these birds, and when we Carriage and Package Free 

consider the marked efiect produced on the G Chionodoxa Lucilia. 200 Crocus, assorted 

Momage or canaries by certain food, such as 12 Hyacinths, choice for 50 Snowdrops 

Cayenne pepper, the idea is quite feasible. Rice 6 a&SX, choice torpot. “ MuS“ 

I s not bad lor a cnange, but we do not consider it 12 Narcissus, for pots 4 Lilies 

nod enough for poultry, containing, as it does, J 1 j 0 ™iul 18 ’ t0I ' ,0lien ‘ 

J much starch, which tends, like maize, to the 6 Alliums 6 Triteleia odorata 

wing on of internal fat, so injurious to ever ij Omii* 26 winter Aoonites 

■oduction. For chickens, nnless boiled in milk, to tShps, assort"? 12 u^-'tooth Violets 

cannot be recommended, on account of its being 17 Ranunculus 12 Baxitraga 

deficient in bone and flesh-forming material. 2Dondl “ 
it we repeat it is useful for a change, especially BouMo th0 ‘^utlSTtoful ^ t ^f,i U ‘ c aboTe Q "“' 

^en boiled, and a few handfuls of barley meal „ , , ’ 

^middlings mixed therewith. Small beans and Ca,ai ^'‘ ° J BM ’ Z! 


200 Crocus, assorted 
50 Snowdrops 
25 Anemones 
6 Muscari 
4 Lilies 
4 Tritoniaa 
6 Scillaa 

6 Triteleia odorata 
25 Winter Aoonites 
6 Brodiwit 

12 Dog’K-tooth Violets 
12 Saxifraga 


Money—Ready Reckoning, Wages, and Calculating 
Tables. 

Obituary. 


, otmiddlings mixed therewith. Small beans and 
% p*»may also; be given occasionally. They are 
i > exillent for growing stock, and likewise give 
th« plumage a hard, glossy look. Hemp seed 
-in mall quantities may grfhelim^ be g^vln, 


JNO. JEFFERIES & SONS, 

CIRENCESTER. 


PRICE ONE SHILLING, 

Post free la. 3d. 

“THE GARDEN" AND “GARDENING 
ILLUSTRATED” OFFICE: 

37, SOUTHAMPTON STREET, 
Covent Garden, London, W.C. 

URB ANA-CHAMPAIGN 












414 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Nov. 10, 1883, 


cypripedium calceolus i mP0SS ibi e to buy Cheaper 

(THE YELLOW LADY'S SLIPPER ORCHID) I ^ J 

Same Quality and Correctness. 

■RULBS FOR THE GARDEN. —650 for 21s., 

X) viz., 24 Hyacinths, 32 Tulips, 87 Narcissi and Daffodils 
200 Crocus. 25 Anemones 37 Itinunculus, 27 Irb, 8 Gladiolus, 
6 Lilies 100 Snowdrops. 50 yellow Aconites, 6 Alliums, 50 He- 
paticas, all in varied and best selected sorts. Similar selection 
of 300 for 10b. 6tL Forwardedpackage and carriage free (with 
catalogue, illustrated in colours) on receipt of remittance, by 
HOOPER & CO., The Covent Garden Seed Warehouse, 
London W.C. __ 



ROSES! ROSES!! R OSES!!! 

Standard, Half-standard, Dwarf, or 
Pot Roses. 

Every Plant a Perfect Specimen. 

ONE HUNDRED THOUSAND TO CHOOSE FROM. 

A full Descriptive Catalogue of Roses, containing valuable 
information on the Culture of the Rose, forwarded, post 
free, on application to 

FRANK CANT, 

ROSE GROWER. 

THE MILE END NURSERIES, 

COLCHESTER. 

Upwards of Fifty First Prizes awarded to F. O. for 

Roses during the season of 1883._ 


T ILIUM HARRIS1 (the Bermuda Easter 

-1-J Lily), one of the most valuable introductions of lato 
years; a long trumpet-dowered white Lily, beautifully re- 
flexed—bearing frequently from six to ten, and baa been 
photographed with over thirty flowers on one spike ; forces in 
pots with great facility, and so full of vitality that several 
and continued growths spring from one bulb : bulbs, 2a. each, 
18s. per dozen. It is quite di tinct from L. longiflorum; 
delivered free —HOOPER A CO.. Covent Garden. London. 


A SCARCE GARDEN PEA, VANGUARD 

(Nelson).—An qarly wrinkled Pea, with a modernely 
vigorous habit of growth, 3 feet to 3J feet high, producing in 
the greatest profusion well-filled pods containing extraordi¬ 
nary large Peas of a most delicious Marrow flavour—a quality 
entirely absent in early kinds. Price, 5s. per quart; cash with 
order ; post free.—JOHN LEMAN, Chigwell. Essex, __ 

BEAUTIFY YOUR HOMES. 

HYACINTHS GIVEN AWAY. 

All picked bulbs; no bad ones in between, as at sales. 

12 beat named Hyacinths and 3 presented, making 15 for 6a. 
24 6 3J lls. 6d. 

12 „ 60 22s. 

Saitabk for Pots or Glutsre. 

P.O. orders to 

HOOPER & CO., Couent Garden, London. 


SILVER MEDAL 

HORSE-SHOE BOILER. 


M USHROOM SPAWN, beet quality, 4 3 . Gd. 

per bmhelo! 20 brick,; two briokj post free for U. 
with notes on culture; trade price very low.—J. PRICK, 
Nunbury Lan e. Walton-on- Thames.___ 

DIN E-APFLE NURSERY, Peckham Kjc — 

X TO BE LET on lease, this well-known Nursery, with 
extensive Grape and Orchard Houses, planted with the 


yirn Newly-imported DU'lUH BULBS and 
6 dozen spring bedding plaut3 for12s. 6d., carriage 
paid, ai follows; 6 named Hyacinths, 12 bedding. 6 Grape, 
25 double Tulips, 25 Bingle. 150 Crocus three vars . 12 each of 
double white Narcis, single ditto, Iri8.An e mo Q efl.Ranuncu- 
lus, winter Aconites. Ixiaa, 6 each Daffodils, Lily of the 
Valley. Lent Lilies, 2 each Dielytra and Spinpa, oO mixed 
border Narcissus - HENRY A QO . , Chigwell Row, Essex . 
flLOVESNAND PINKS. -Three most popttlar 
VJ varieties which have no lival-Tiue old Clove, Mrs. 
Sinking (the most double and b«t o’ all whites), and Anne 
Boleyn 6 plants, 2 of each, 3s. 3d ; 1 dozen, 4 of each, 6s.— 

W. WEALE, Taplow. Bucks._ 

1 rifl DUTCH FLOWER ROoTS lor 3s., viz., 

J.UU Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, Crocus. Anemones, 
Aconites, he., delivered.—J, SY LVESTER I dle. Bradford . 

flNLY 2a. 6 cl , Free.—Three each of following 

lJ —Piimnla. Cafoeolaria, Cineraria, Begonia, Tulips, and 

Crocus -J. SYLVESTER, Idle, Bradford. __ 

AFRICAN TUBEROSES.—Few bulbs equal 

A these, beautiful and sweet scented, for choice, button¬ 
holes or bouquets. 3 for Is M, 5 s per doz in splendid con¬ 
dition, free —T. SYLVESTER, Idle. B radford._ 

1 O EXHIBITION HYACINTHS, 5i 6 d.; 6 , 
I 4/ 3j.. delivered. Tulips, mixed, 4s. 6d. per 100, 9ib dozen. 
Crocus, Is. 6d. 100. Aconites, 2a. 6d. 100.—J. SYLVESTKR, 
Idle, Bradford._ 

T'XHIBITION TULIPS. — These beautiful 

£l flowers must be planted at once; cannot be supplied 
after November. Bacchus. Cottage Maid, Pottebakker (scarlet, 
white, and yellow) Rosa Mundi (single), Ac., Is 3tL dozen, 83. 
100; blue Celeste. Due Van Thol, La Candour. Rex Rubrorum, 
Ac double. Is. dozen, 6». 100; dwarf Due Van Thol. Is. 3d. 
dozen 8s 100 r my election, named. 24, 2s.; 50, 3s. 6d.; 100 
6a Gd.; all free —J. SYLVESTER, Idle, Bradford. 
PARNATiONS, Picotees, Pinks, Carter's 
U Caanell'a, and Dodwell’s finest strains, 2s. dozen; 12 of 
each, 5?.; all large plants, free.-J. SYLVESTER. Idle, 
Bradford. 



This Boiler, in open com¬ 
petition, was awarded 
by;the Royal Horticul¬ 
tural Society the 

FIRST PRIZE 
(Silver Medal) 
in Class I. at their 
Great Show in South 
Kensington in May of 
this year. 


No brickwork required. 

Builds into wall qf 
, greenhouse. 


nNLY 5s., Free.—20 each of following: Tulips, 

U Crocus, winter Aconites, Anemones. Ranunculus, Nar¬ 
cissus. and Wallflowers: warranted satisfactory.-J. SYL 
VESTER. Idle, Bra dford. 


SPECIAL OFFER of R08ES, FRUIT TREES, 

IO and ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS, Ac., by THOMAS J. 
C'APARN, Landscape Gardener, Newark-on-Trent 
The whole ha* been constantly transplanted, will produce 
an immediate effect, and are offered at very reduced prices. 
Pyramid and cordon Apples and Pears. 60. and 83. per 

^Ornamental evergreen and declduyus shrubs in great, 
variety, 2 to 6 feet. 25s. 100. 

Common Yew for hedge?, 2 feet, 2os. 100 ; 3 feet, 50s. 100. 
Roses, dwarfs on Manetti, our selection, 4 l 6i dozen; 

standards. 15a. and 18s. dozen. ... , . 

Larch, 4 to 5 feet, grand stuff, 40s. 1G00 ; Spruce, 1J to 2J feet 

40 AuXrianFlne.l4t<i25 feet,12».; 3 ta 4 teet_20i^00. 

Extra strong Quick, 2is per KM); smaller, 15a. 1000. m 
Large specimens of Thujas. Cupieesua, Thujop3i8, HolUe3, 
Yewe, Ac , to offer at equally cheap rates. 

Black Currants, splendid fruiting trees, 3 feet through, 4s. 

Estimates given and contracts entered into for planting to 
any extent. Testimonials from all parts of the country. 
Lists free. 


Google 


Special features: 


W. 21. CROWE 

BEG3 to ca’l attention to his large stoek of the following 
in small or large pots, by post or rail. 

TROUBLE AND SINGLE GERANIUMS for 

±J pot culture, foliage do., double and single Fuchsias. 
Abutilons, Salvias, tuberius and foliage Begonias, Azaleas. 
Camellias, &o. Full descriptive Catalogue froe on application. 

DTOYE AND GREENHOUSE CLIMBERS.— 

O A very larg-a stock of all the best, including Stephanotis 
floiibunda, in 3-inch pots, or by post. Is ; larger, Is. 6d_. 
24. 6d., and 3a. 6(L each; twelve choicest climbers such as 
StephanotiB, Cisaus discolor, Cobaias, Hoyas, Cierodtndron*, 
Plumbagos, Allamandas, Tacsonias, Ac., very fine plants in 
5-inch pots, 12a.; bix for la .; twelve smaller, 7s. 04. ; six for 
4s. 6d. 

WINTER-FLOWERING PLANTS.—Twelve 
VV best sorts for succeisional effect, flowering sizs 
in 5-inch pots, such as Azalea indica, Azalea mollis, Bouvar- 
aias, Cyclamen, Tree Carnations, Epiphyllums, Arums, 
Genistas, Ac., for 15s., six for 8s. 

POLIAGE PLANTS FOR WINTER DE- 

-L CORATION. — Twelve best varieties for immediate 
effect, Buchas Palms, Ferns, Grevillea robusta. Ficus elaatica, 
Pandanus, Crotons, Ac., good plants in 4-inch and 5 inch pots 
for 12s.; six for 7s. 

cnpin BORDER CARNATIONS. — Twelve 

JUUU splendid varieties, including old Crimson Clove 
(true), old White Clove, Ac., all distinct and true to name. 
6s.; twelve newer, 9s and 12s.; the grand new white varieties 
Harriet Turner and Gloire de Nancy, Is. 6d each. For show 
Carnations and Picotees see catalogue, post free. 

PORCING PINKS.—Twelve good plants in 
-L six best varieties, smh as Anne Boleyn, Derby Day, 
Mrs Binkins, Ascot, Ac., 4s. 6d. and 7s. 6d.; splendid outton- 
hole flowers. 

HYACINTHS, TULIPS, CROCUS, 

J-L SPIR.UAS, Ac., all of best quality and at loweet prices 

NTEW TREE CARNATIONS, for winter flower- 
IN ing. The following three grand varieties: General 
Roberts, deep buff, edged and flaked red, 2s.; Prince Im¬ 
perial, crimson-6carlet, 2a.; Sarah Bernhardt, yellow, 
flaked reddish crimson, 2s.; no better varieties have ever 
been offered; see catalogue, page 23, post free. 

Ofinn SHOW AND DECORATIVE PELAR- 

OC/vJw GONIUMS—Twelve splendid named varieties, 
including the best grown for Covent Garden, such as Mex 
meris, Scarlet Gem. Tommy Dodd, St. Mmde, Duchess of 
Edinburgh, Ac , for 5».; strong plants in pots or by post; see 
catalogue for these and new varieties. 

20,000 Palma. 20,003 

DALMS are now Bold in thousands by the 
-L London florists a3 smill plants for vase3 for decora¬ 
tion. They are certain to maintain their popularity, as they 
last a long time in the impure atmosphere of rooms. 12 
distinct varieties, including Arecos, Chammrops, Corypha?. 
Euterpes, Latanias, Phoenix, Seaforthias, etc., by post or in 
pots, 6a, Bix larger in 4-inch pots, 6s. Six very fine in 5-inch 
pots, 12s. Nothing is so useful or lasts so long for decorating 
during winter 

Choice and Rare Palma 
•"THE following are amongst the most elegant in 
-L cultivation : Cocos Weddelliana. Is. Bd. ; Areca Verachaf- 
felti. Is ; Kemia Balmoreana, Is. 6d.: K. Forst*riana 
Is. 6d. ; Geonoma Schottiana, Is.; or the five for 5s. 6d_ 
10,000 Ferns 1 Ferns 11 Ferns 111 10,003 

^TWELVE fine Stove and Greenhouse Ferns, 

X including Maiden-hairs, Pteris, Lomarias, Cyrtomium;, 
Doodias, Ac., good plants in pots or by post, 4s.; larger, is 
4-in. and 5-in. pots, 9s. and 12s. dozen. 

Tree or winter-flowering Carnations. 
T^WELVE in four of the host sort 3 for catting 
X La Belle, white; A. Alegatiere, scarlet; Miss Joliffe, 
pink : Vulcan, mottled red, by post 4s. per dozen, SSs. per 
lOO ; in pots, 5s. per dozen, 30s. per 100. 

Tuberoses. 

KTOTHING can be better tor button-holes that 
J-v these deliciously-scented flowers: good tubers in 3-inch 
pots in growth, 7s. 6d. dozen ; fine plants in 5-inch pots for 
early flowering, 12s. per dozen. 


1. Being horse-Bhoe ehaped the exposed portion of furnace 
front is reduced to the size of the feed door only, or one 
half that exposed by any other boiler of a similar character. 

2 The Boiler forms its own stand, the water-way being 
carried down to the bottom of ashes pit, giving not only 
increased power, but making it quite impossible for fumes 
to escape from furnace into houae. an advantage no other 
Boiler possesses. 

3 The whole of the heat from the outside surface of the 
Boiler i9 given out in house, and wo challenge contradiction 
in affirming that it is the most efficient and economical Boiler 
of the cla3* manufactured. 

PRICES 

No. 1. to heat 70 feet 4-inch pipe .. £2 12 6 
2. „ 120 „ „ „ .. 4 2 

„ 3. „ 260 „ „ ., .. 5 12 6 

Delivered free to any Railway Station in England or Wales 
Our Hoise-shoe Boiler was entered in the Official Cata¬ 
logue of the Royal Horticultural Society for exhibition in 
May, 188J, but through a mishap, arriving late, it was shut 
out. We were, however, awarded Second Prize (Bronze 
Medal) for a Boiler of a different character. So the only 
occasion it has been exhibited in public it was awarded the 
premier position. 

The annexed testimonial will reply to misleading state¬ 
ments being advertised from motives only too apparent: 

Hanwell Nurseries, London, W., October 13, 1883. 
Dear Sirs,— I have had your Horse-shoe Boiler in use 
nearly a year. 1 find it powerful and economical. I have 
the No. 2 size driving 120 feet of 4-inch pipe, and it costs me 
for coke about Is. 3d. per week, working continuously. 1 can 
honestly recommend ii to any amateur or gardener wanting 
a really good boiler.—Yours truly, J. Henry Krause. 

Notf..— We are now fixing four more of these boilers for 
Mr. Krause—two No. 2 and two No. 3-for use in his own 
nurseries. * __ 

Illustrated List with full particulars on application. 

GHAS. P. KINNELL & CO., 

Iron Founders and Hot-water Engineers, 


Flowering and foliage plants for winter 
decoration Great autumn clearance sale- 
HPO make room for stock, my collections (of 
-L which I make a speciality) of plants at one. two, and 
three guineas will, for the next month, be more liberal than 
usual. The plants can either he supplied in 5-iuch or small pots, 
and will consist of Abutilons, Salvias, Cyclamens, Begonus, 
Tree Carnations, Azaleas, various climbers, Bouvardiw, 
Palms, Ferns. Ac. Purchasers’ wishes will be carefully studied. 
Descriptive Catalogue free on application. 

W. M. CROWE, The Boleyn Nursery. Upton, Essex. 

NOTICE TO THE TRADE. 

W. M. CROWE 

Is prepared to supply the trade on liberal terms for cadi. 
List of Palms, Ferns , Begonias , %c. y ott 
application. 

Boleyn Nursery, Upton, Essex. 


SI, Bankslde, Southwark, London, s.F,. 




BLUE HEPATICAS. 

The loveliest flower of spring either 
for Pots or the Garden. 

Never before offered bo cheaply. Should now be planted by 
hundreds in borders, id^ioga, rocker;e3. shrubberies, Ac. 
Nothing more charming. 

Prices: IOOO, 31s. 6d.; lOO, 3s. Od.; 60,2a, free, j 

Not less than 50 supplied. 


HOOPER & CO., 

OOVENT GARDEN, LONDO! 

P R SALE, six best sort Pine-appl© Plants J 

good condition.—Apply 8, Minshull Street, Manchcej 

JRBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. V. 


NOVEMBER 17, 1883. 


No. 245. 


HOUSE AHD WINDOW GAEDENINQ. 

NOTES ON WINDOW GARDENING. 
{Continued from page 403). 

To return again to the subject of window-boxes. 
It is not only in towns that these are found use¬ 
ful; many country folk are glad to supplement 
scanty garden ground by utilising the space 
afforded by window-sills. A good plain box can 
be made of three-quarter-inch deal, and if pos¬ 
sible, a depth and width of not less than g inches 
should be allowed. Good-sized holes, like those 
at the bottom of seed-pans, must be made to 
allow for drainage, and the whole may be 
painted any dark colour. The box should be 
raised upon cross ledges of wood, so that it may 
tot rest directly on the window-sill; otherwise, 
damp will collect beneath the box and the 
wood will speedily decay. The outside of such 
boies may be prettily and tastefully covered 
with rustic woodwork—Hazel boughs with the 
bark left on, split in half, and nailed in some 
simple design to the wooden frame—being very 
suitable. Such work is not uncommon in the 
neighbourhood of Hazel coppices, and I know 
one village where most of the cottages are made 
picturesque as well as comfortable by pretty 
brown porches made of Fir poles, which in 
many cases are festooned with sweet white Cle¬ 
matis, and Roses, and Honeysuckle; and here 
also window-boxes and plant-stands of a similar 
character find much favour. Wood is, in some 
respects, better than ware for window-boxes, 
eg, it is not so liable to crack during severe 
frost, and it costs less. Cork is not much to be 
recommended, for it soon assumes a dilapidated 
appearance. It ought to look well, bnt it 
seldom does. 

Sheubs fob Window Boxes. 

To those who are willing to give time and 
trouble, it is an easy matter in the couni ry to 
have good window plants at any time of year; 
as a matter of fact, however, window-boxes are 
generally put away during the winter. In gar¬ 
dens and in hedgerows, shining Hollies with 
their scarlet berries, and evergreen Fir trees, 
and Box, and A ew, supply the place of flowers, 
and we are content to rest with resting nature 
and to wait for the Snowdrops and Winter 
Aconites to wake the sleeping year. It is very 
different in great cities, where the eye, weary of 
bricks and mortar, longs for the “ bit of green” 
which it is so hard to make thrive in smoke¬ 
laden air and wind-swept streets; but in the 
peaceful country town, as well as in the turmoil 
of the bustling city, some, alas, must always 
live on the shady side, where but few gleams of 
sunshine come to brighten the live-long day. 
Let such try the Holly-leaved Berberry (Mahonia 
aquifolium) in their windows. It is so hardy, 
so indifferent to aspect and extremes of weather, 
and withal so warm and cheery with its polished 
red-brown leaves, that it cannot fail to please. 
For the window, it is best to get healthy, well¬ 
shaped seedling plants, and to grow them in 
5-inch pots. I have somewhere seen it stated 
that for north windows pots are better than 
boxes; and certainly the mouldering look of both 
box and wall in some sunless positions seems 
to bear out the statement. Cotoneaster micro- 
phylla is another dwarf evergreen shrub avail¬ 
able for similar positions, and very suitable, its 
pearly white flowers and red berries being 
always cheerful, and it succeeds in any aspect. 
Vet neither this nor the preceding appear to 
have found much favour, the usual tenants of 
the window-box being stiff little shrubs of the 
Euonymns type. These are, doubtless, very 
useful in many situations, but I venture to 
suggest low-growing shrubs as being often more 
•mtable and effective. 

*■ Raising Seedlings. 

Why should not people raise their own seed- 
ings ? Nothing can be easier than to grow 
base Holly-leaved Berberries. Wherever a bush 
!. planted in the open ground, the seedlings 
'' toe ahemsclves all about it without more ado. 
it Ae same may be said of Ivy, and nothing can 
>' bi more charming than sprffys of the sleidcr- 
gnwing varieties for drtfcins (tb£ fidbi p^a 


window-box with living green, and it thrives 
everywhere. Seedlings spring up in great abun¬ 
dance wherever the Ivy berries happen to fall 
in congenial soil. These tiny plantlets, if 
pricked out separately, and Bhifted from single 
2.J-incb pots into gradually increasing sizes as 
the roots touch the sides of the pot, will soon 
grow, and can be transferred when ready. It is 
sometimes difficult to make full-grown plants 
adapt themselves to the required position ; but 
seedlings can always be trained and pruned into 
shape, and the little nursery will afford a great 
deal of pleasure and instruction. The shady 
corner of a back-yard will afford space enough 
for such gardening to be carried on. 

One of the greatest of gardening pleasures is 
to watch the gradual development of a seedling 
plant from the moment that a little crack and 
upheaving of the earth tells of the bursting 
life beneath, through every successive stage of 
growth. The great advantage of raising one’s 
own seedlings, though the process may be some¬ 
what trying to impatient natures, consists in 
their receiving no check from change of cir¬ 
cumstances during their growth. The lessening 
of cost, where cost is a consideration, is also not 
to be lost sight of. To some people, the tedious¬ 
ness of the operation is an insuperable objec¬ 
tion, but to the genuine lover of plants the per¬ 
fect knowledge gained of their life history by 
this means is invaluable. To the gardener, the 
successful cultivation of one plant from its 
earliest beginning through every stage of its 
growth and reproduction, is the key to a large 
amount of rudimentary knowledge without 
which he cannot pass the most simple examina¬ 
tion in the art. Therefore, all who aspire to 
gardening honours should at some time or 
other try their skill at seed raising. 

Annuals fob Window Boxes. 

Probably it may seem unseasonable to suggest 
seed-sowing now in these dull November days. 
But in gardening matters it is essential to take 
time by the forelock, and to plan well before¬ 
hand the work to come; and I should like to 
persuade some of my window gardening friends 
to give hardy annnals a fair trial during the 
year to which we already begin to look forward. 
As a class, these showy, cheap, and easily culti¬ 
vated plants are sadly and most undeservedly 
neglected. Many people are only now begin 
ning to realise the full advantage of antnmn 
sowing for hardy annuals intended to bloom in 
the early spring. It is true that the pink Silene 
pendula and Limnanthes Douglasi are now 
familiar to everyone, but there are many species 
still more desirable than these for many pur¬ 
poses, which succeed under the same treatment, 
yet are seldom grown. Bnt unfortunately the 
time is now past for autumn sowing, which 
should have been done at the end of August or 
beginning of September. Under skilful man¬ 
agement, however, and within a light airy 
window, something might even yet be accom¬ 
plished. But it is not too late to buy or beg a 
few plants which some neighbouring gardener 
has had the knowledge and the forethought to 
raise. It is hard to believe how very few are 
necessary. A three-penny packet of seed of any 
ordinary annual—like Nemophila for example— 
will probably give, at a low computation, a 
hundred plants. A single healthy plant, well 
grown, will cover 11 feet or 2 feet of the open 
border. In a window box the chances are that 
the growth might not be quite so robust, but 
two plants ought amply to suffice for one of 
ordinary size if one species only is used—or at 
most three. The common practice, neverthe¬ 
less, is very different. Supposing two window 
boxes to be required, the packet of seed is likely 
to be divided in half, the seed scattered anyhow 
upon the surface of the soil, and when they 
appear, as they probably do after a few days, 
shouldering each other out of the ground, the 
young plantlets are left to chance and an occa¬ 
sional watering. It is no wonder in such a case 
that the growing of annnals is voted a mistake. 
The real mistake in sowing all kinds of seeds is 
sowing too thickly. It is a good plan to count 
the seeds we intend to sow, allowing 1 inch 
apart each way for the seedlings. Thus six will 


be enough for a 5-inch pot, and perhaps as 
many as ten or a dozen for a small seed pan. 
Some seeds are so minute that it is a matter of 
great difficulty to sow them thinly enough. A 
friend who is clever at homely contrivances 
thoroughly mixes a tiny pinch of such dust-Uke 
seed with another of the finest silver sand, ami 
sifts the mixture over the surface of the soil 
through a common tin pepper pot—a plan which 
answers very well. The rule, then, that we 
must strictly keep in mind, either for the sowing 
or the planting oat of annuals, is not to over¬ 
crowd them. 

The annuals best suited for autumn sowiDg 
come mostly under the class called Californian. 
Godetias, Collinsias, Eartonia, Kschscholtzias, 
Leptosiphon, and some others are all admirable, 
and stand ordinary winters well. Young plants 
of any of these pricked out even now from the 
seedbed, would be likely to do well under good 
management. The soil in which they are planted, 
whether in pots or boxes, should not be too rich 
—any ordinary garden soil will do—for it is 
not necessary during the extremity of winter for 
the plants to make much growth. The great 
point is that they take good hold of the soil, and 
then keep only slowly moving. If growth be 
too rapid owing to unseasonably mild weather, 
or otherwise, the plants are much more likely to 
suffer when sharp frosts come. The annuals 
above named are very well known to most 
people, bnt it is rare to meet with them really 
well grown. The Leptosiphons are, perhaps, less 
familiar than the others, and grow in low, com¬ 
pact tnfts, somewhat like a dwarf Phlox, bearing 
a profusion of bright rose-coloured flowers, or 
of all shades of yellow from deep orange to 
creamy-white,according to to thespecies chosen. 
Height must be considered in the grouping of 
annuals, ‘and is a matter of considerable im¬ 
portance in window gardening. Nemophila and 
Limnanthes trail and spread. Collinsia bicolor, 
the pretty lilac and white species which is the 
tallest of its kind, reaches 15 inches. The newer 
strains of Godetia, like G. Whitneyi and its hy¬ 
brids, Lady Albemarle (deep crimson) and the 
satin-white Dnchess of Albany are dwarfer than 
the older kinds, growing to about a foot high, 
and forming compact little bnshes fall of large 
showy flowers. The new' hybrid Godetia Bijon 
is said not to exceed 5 inches or 6 inches, and if 
it fulfils the expectation formed of it on further 
acquaintance, will prove most desirable as a 
window annual. One centre plant of Bijou, 
with a single Nemophila insignis on either side, 
would make a charming combination of white 
flowers, rose-spotted, and sky-blue. A few young 
plants of Saxifraga Barmentosa, variously known 
as the “ sailor plant,” “Aaron's beard,” or oftener 
still as the “ strawberry Geranium,” planted 
along the edge of the box would give just the 
right tone of leafage to accord well with and 
throw up those bright blossoms. By carefully 
removing all dead flowers as soon as possible, 
such a window-box might be a source of delight 
and occupation for many weeks, and the cost 
would be merely nominal. K. L. D. 


Ferns for -window gardening.— In 

passing by some of the pretty villa residences in 
which the outskirts of Southsea abounds, and 
where floriculture in all its many phases is en¬ 
thusiastically taken up, I was arrested by a 
window full to over-flowing of most lovely Ferns, 
and on closer examination I found it was a por¬ 
tion of the entrance hall that had been con¬ 
verted into a Fern garden by fitting shallow 
boxes in the windows. Around the side of each 
window large pieces of virgin cork had been 
fixed, and the cavities filled with soil, and in these 
Woodwardia radicans and other Ferns that need 
an elevated position had been planted and had 
grown most luxuriantly, and from the roof large 
cork baskets filled with Ferns were hung, so that 
the fronds of the ones hanging from the roofnearly 
met the ones growing from the boxes at the base 
of the windows. I feel certain that anyone 
having windows with north aspects could not 
do better than make Ferns a speciality, adding 
any kind of trailing or creeping plants to make 
a dense growth of luxuriant verdant foliage 







416 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Nov. 17, 1883. 


that is pleasing at all seasons. It is far better 
to take up the culture of plants that will suit 
certain aspects and positions than to waste one’s 
energy in a vain attempt to grow kinds of plants 
out of the reach of the cultivator, for I often 
see windows looking miserable through having 
flowering plants where foliaged plants only 
would succeed, and vice vena. In sunny win¬ 
dows flowering plants do well, but in Bhaded 
ones, where light is subdued and the ventilation 
but limited, Ferns may be used with the best 
best possible effect. The various kinds of Pteris, 
Adiaotums, and the hardier greenhouse Ferns 
are the best for the purpose.—J. Gboom, Gos¬ 
port, Haute. 

10569.— Plants for gas lighted rooms. 

—There are, indeed, few plants that will with¬ 
stand the impure air of gas lit apartments. Pro¬ 
bably the very best are Aspidistra lurida and its 
variegated variety, both excellent window 
plants, the latter being very attractive. Dra- 
c:ena congesta and rubra are of a much enduring 
nature, and there are one or two Palms, notably 
Chamserops exoelsa and Rhapis flabelliformis, 
which do fairly well. The great point is to wash 
the leaves with clean water, both under and 
upper surfaces, several times in the week.— 
J. C. B. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


CULTURE OF PINKS. 

Some who have failed with the Carnation and 
Picotee have not found it difficult to grow the 
Pink, and some prefer it to the Carnation, even 
if they had the choice of growing both. There is 
one thing in favour of the Fink, and that is it 
succeeds better entirely out-of-doors than under 
glass. It should be propagated by taking the 
small side growths off in July and inserting 
them in sandy soil in a shady place, or, if avail¬ 
able, they may be put under glass lights. They 
strike most readily when taken off in rainy 
weather, and if the sun should shine out strongly, 
they must be shaded until they have formed 
roots, but they dislike much shading. When 
rooted, they should be planted out in finegarden 
soil, about 3 inches or 4 inches apart, to be again 
planted out in beds or borders where they are 
to flower in October or (if the ground is ready) 
in September. I plant them in good garden 
soil into which some rotten manure has been 
dug. Old Pink growers used to make too much 
fuss about the preparation of Pink bedB, and 
this more than anything else caused the Pink to 
decline in favour. The beds require attending to 
during winter, as the plants are sometimes 
thrown out of the ground by frost, especially 
when planted late in the season; they may be 
made firm with the Angers after a thaw, and the 
surface of the beds may be occasionally stirred 
up with a small fork or a pointed stick. The 
Pink flowers a month earlier than the Carnation, 
which makes it more valuable, as the one natu¬ 
rally succeeds the other. By the middle of July 
the Pink will be past its best, while the Carna¬ 
tion and Picotee will be beginning to open their 
flowers. This is considering that they have been 
allowed to come to the flowering stage out-of- 
doors in beds or borders. 

Pinks for porcino. —There does not yet 
seem to be a strain of perpetual flowering Pinks, 
although some of the varieties are well adapted 
for forcing. These forcing Pinks seem to be a 
distinct class, and although they do not possess 
the various points of excellence in lacing, form, 
and quality which the others have, yet they are 
beautiful border flowers, and if grown in the 
open air produce large quantities of bloom, in¬ 
valuable where cut flowers are much in demand. 
The plants that we intend to force were potted a 
month or more ago, and were placed in a cold 
frame, where they are rapidly making fresh roots. 
Early in the new year a few pots will be placed 
in a warm temperature as near the glass as we 
can get them, and where they can receive a 
gentle bottom heat. The variety most esteemed 
by us is Lady Blanche, a fine pure white kind, well 
adapted for cutting for bouquets. Lord Lyons 
is placed next to it, but it is quite distinct in 
colour, being a reddish purple. Mrs. Moore and 
Mrs. Pettifer both force well; they are white 
with dark purplish maroon centres. Anne Boleyn 
is an old and useful border sort, but it is not so 
well adapted for ✓forcing as those just named. 
To obtain good strong plsp ts qftlir section of 
Pinks for forcing they must be'propagated by 


means of cuttings placed in a hotbed in April or 
at least early in May ; when rooted, they should 
be planted close together in boxes until they are 
inured to the open air, when they may be 
planted out in the open ground 10 inches or 12 
inches apart. J 

BARTONIA AUREA. 

Thib Bartonia is such a showy, half-hardy annual, 
that it ought not to be omitted from the seed list 
of annuals for the ensuing season. It grows from 
1 foot to 2 feet high under good culture, and bears 
numerous showy blossoms from 2 inches to 3 
inches across, of a lustrous golden yellow, 
which expand best in bright sunshiny weather. 
It should be sown in groups or patches where it 
is to remain in light soil, sandy loam being the 



Spray of Bartonia aurea. 

best, choosing a warm situation, where it can be 
fully exposed to the sun, as the plant is very im¬ 
patient of excessive moisture. The seed should 
be sown in the open border in April, and the 
seedlings should be thinned out a foot or more 
apart, bo as to allow the plants to develop them¬ 
selves. As the seeds are very small, care should 
be taken not to bury them too deeply. This Bar¬ 
tonia is seldom used in any way but as a patch 
in a border, but well grown it is one of the best 
of annuals for a bold mass or bed, relieved by 
tall. Blender plants through it here and there. 


VIOLETS AND HOW TO GROW THEM. 
Enclosed you will find a few sample blooms of 
some of the Bweet Violets at present in flower 
with me. I grow about twenty-five varieties, 
and it may be interesting to your readers if I 
make a few practical suggestions as to their cul¬ 
tivation, and give the names of the varieties 
which I have found after long experience to be 
the most deserving of a place in the garden. I 
premise first, however, that this is a sort of para¬ 
dise for Violets; they grow and multiply here like 
weeds, as the climate and soil suit their require¬ 
ments exactly, consequently everyone must not 
expect that under less favourable conditions 
they will do equally well. Nevertheless, there 
are few places in Great Britain where, with 
proper cultivation and a good selection of 
varieties, Violets may not be had in bloom 
during six or seven months, and these the 
dreariest of the year; and who is there that 
does not covet such a luxury as this 1 

Well then, I assume, as a matter of course, 
that everyone loves Violets and wants to have 
them. How must they set about it ? Let me 
first desoribe the varieties, the bloomB of which 
I have enclosed to Mr. Editor. No. 1 is New 
York, a more robust growing variety of Marie 


Louise. One may Bay that here It is almost 
always in flower; indeed, there are only two 
months of the year, viz., June and July, when it 
is absolutely without a blossom; it is very sweet 
and charming. The colour of the flower is a deep 
rich mauve-violet, with a white and red eye; it 
is of fair size, often as large as a florin, very 
double, very free blooming, and richly fragrant, 
like all the rest of the Neapolitan family to 
which it belongs. No. 2 is De Panne, equal in 
every way to New York, but paler in colour, 
which is deep lavender with a pure white eye; a 
splendid robust growing variety, beginning to 
bloom generally about October and lasting well 
on into May. No. 3 is Double Red Russian, a 
very pretty and distinct variety, a strong grower 
and free autumn bloomer, hardy and sweet. 
LadieB, please note that this is the only coloured 
Violet which looks well by lamplight; it appears 
then of a pretty bright rose colour, while all the 
purples and blues look dingy. No. 4 is Patria, 
a very dark double purple with lighter eye ; this 
variety is also a most free and constant bloomer, 
throwing out runners after the manner of the 
old Tree Violet, which may be trained up and 
will carry bloom till May. No. 5 is Belle de 
Chatenay, like a little white Rose, and not so 
very little either, for some of the blooms will 
well cover a half-crown; it is only just coming 
into flower now, being later than the others, but 
when you do get it it is really grand. The growth 
of the plant is strong, and it is very hardy and 
sweet, but can hardly be called a free bloomer 
until March and April when it usually does well. 
No. 6, Swanley White, a pure white double Nea¬ 
politan, very sweet, and early and late bloomer, 
a good grower. The old pale lilac Neapolitan I 
cannot include, as it has not yet begun to flower 
it is cot in any way equal to De Parme, which it 
much resembles in colour, being smaller, more 
delicate in constitution, and not nearly so flori- 
ferous. The above varieties are the bestdoubles. 
lean only send specimens of three single varieties, 
viz.. No. 7, Princess of Prussia, a splendid giant 
single purple, blooming earlier and more con¬ 
tinuously than Victoria Regina, which it much 
resembles, although it is decidedly larger. No. 
8 is White Czar, the largest single white and 
very pure in colour; it, however, does not bloom 
freely in the autumn, although it does fairly well 
in spring. No. 9 is Argentiflora. I am sorry to 
say that the slugs have been supping off the 
blooms sent, so that they are not very present¬ 
able ; this variety is chiefly remarkable for its 
summer blooming propensity; there is not a 
month in the year when a few blossoms of it 
cannot be got, while in the spring it is a sheet 
of silvery shaded flowers, produced by the 
mingled white and pale purple colour running 
through it. In addition to these three single 
varieties, Victoria Regina and Odoratissima (both 
large blues) are well worth growing; the latter, 
however, seldom blooms until the spring. 

And now—How to have Violets all the autumn 
and winter. Well, the secret of it is good sum¬ 
mer cultivation. Most people forget that there 
are such things as Violets in summer; they 
allow their plants to run into a tangled mass, 
to be scorched by the sun, and choked by weeds 
until they become a mere collection of sickly 
leaves, without a single solid flowering crown 
among them. Is it any wonder that when 
autumn and spring arrives there are no flowers 7 
My Violets run all to leaf,” is the constant 
complaint; and it is no wonder, for they have 
no chance to form crowns. Whenever you buy 
yonr Violets, and the time is a matter of indif¬ 
ference, make sure that yon have a fresh planta¬ 
tion made every spring about April or May. Set 
each single crown by itself, allowing a space of 
from 8 inches to 1 foot from plant to plant. 
Keep the runners cut off and the weeds pnlled 
all the summer, and if very dry, a thorough soak¬ 
ing of water once a week will be of great bene¬ 
fit ; a mulching of well-rotted manure or leaves 
is also desirable if the situation is much exposed 
to the sun. By the middle of August you ought 
to have a fine collection of healthy, well-ripened 
plants covered with buds. These can be allowed 
to bloom where they are, or they may be lifted 
with balls of earth and planted in frames, or 
potted as may be desired; the move will, if any¬ 
thing, do them good. My plants, which h ive 
been taken up and planted out this autumn, are 
now blooming better and earlier than these 
which have been left in the beds in which they 
have grown all the summer. I have said nc- 
thing about soil, for this '.tolly is a matter of 




Not. 17, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


417 


great moment. If the above directions are 
attended to, any ordinary garden soil, with the 
addition of some very rotten manure, will do. 
Heavy soil should have some sand added, and 
very light soil should be trodden firm, and the 
plants mulched to prevent evaporation. 

And now, Mr. Editor, I trust that you will 
admire my Violets, and that your readers will 
be enabled to grow them. E. W. Beachey. 

KingtkermeU, Devon. 

[The blooms sent were very beautiful and 
sweet; indeed, few people, we think, are aware 
that such a variety of colour and form in Violets 
exists. We had six or seven kinds all perfectly 
distinct both in colour and form.—E d.] 


Paris Daisies- -Amongst the most con¬ 
tinuous flowering plants I ever grew, I must 
give the palm to these, for they keep growing 
and flowering heedless of scorching suns or 
drenching autumnal rains. The late spell of 
mild weather has brought them out in full 
bloom ; even the most seedy old stems that had 
been battered and bruised by the gales have put 
out fresh shoots and the finest blossoms of the 
season, and I may mention that plants cut down 
in August make fine specimens for lifting and 
potting for conservatory or room decoration; 
they make such a mass of roots that, if lifted 
carefully, they will bear transferring to pots with¬ 
out losiDg a leaf. Anyone having a greenhouse 
need not be short of flowers at this season if they 
cultivate these easily grown plants along with 
ordinary Chrysanthemums and other plants that 
flower naturally without forcing or artificial 
heat.—J. G., Hantt. 

Wallflowers In autumn.— Amongst the 
sweetest flowers of the outdoor garden at the 
present time are Wallflowers,which, owing to the 
mild spring-like weather, are now in full bloom. 
I may mention that the seed was sown in 
the autumn of last year, and the seedlings 
planted out early in the following spring, 
making fine bushes that look as if they 
would continue flowering through the winter, 
unless checked by severe frost. I would advise 
anyone who admires the Wallflower as a cut 
flower for indoor decoration to give successional 
sowing a trial, for only by this means can a con¬ 
tinuous supply of blooms be secured. The Wall¬ 
flower is so readily increased from seed, that any¬ 
one can grow it with a minimum of labour. 
Harbinger is a good dark red sort, greatly es¬ 
teemed in the market, and the dwarf yellow or 
r.elvoir Castle variety is a most useful sort. 
The best plan I have found of getting 
a supply of blooms during the dark dull days of 
winter is to follow the plan adopted by market 
gardeners in the neighbourhood of London, viz., 
plant rows of seedling Wallflowers between the 
bush fruits and under the shelter of fruit trees, for 
the shelter of the trees, even though leafless, is 
enough to protect the Wallflowers from severe 
frost. A bunch of Wallflowers is one of the 
t hings that are welcomed in the dwellings of the 
poorest as well as the richest; its grateful per¬ 
fume is hardly excelled by that of the Violet, 
and its easy culture adapts it to the require¬ 
ments of the most limited garden.— James 
Groom, Gosport. 

10551.—Climbers for fences.—" H. M. 
F.” enquires what climbers may bo employed for 
covering a wooden fence having a southerly aspect. 
Well, the number of plants suitable for the pur¬ 
pose is so great that one hardly knows where to 
begin the list or which to reject. I will, how¬ 
ever, give a brief list of the varieties most 
largely used in this locality, where climbers for 
wall gardening are in great request. First and 
foremost are Boses of a rambling or climbing 
nature, sorts like the Dundee Kambler, Banksian, 
the white Cluster Rose, and many good Boses 
like Gloire de Dijon and others, that make long 
annual shoots, which if left full length become 
wreaths of blossom. These, if trained on palings 
in Bunny aspects, should bring a line supply of 
bloom after those under glass are over, and in 
advance of those in open air beds and borders. 
Then there are Clematises in great variety that 
are well adapted for mingling with other 
climbers, as the shoots look best running 
wild, and if mixed with climbers of an ever¬ 
green character, the effect is not only good 
the whole year round, but one kind helps the 
other. Of evergreen climbers, the variegated 
Ivies are excellent for fences; then there are Passi- 
flora ccerulea, Honeysuckles, Bignonias, Cean- 

DlgltlzBd by GOOgle 


othns azureus, Ampelopsis or Virginian Creeper, 
Cotoneaater, Pjracantha, and other berry-bear¬ 
ing wall creepers that help to enliven the winter 
season with their cheerful berries. There are 
very few plants that will cling to wooden palings 
as they do to brickwork, therefore it is a good 
plan to fasten wire-netting on to the face of the 
fence, and with very little attention in the way 
of pruning and training the fence will soon be 
permanently covered.— James Groom, Gosport. 

10595.— Cloves and Carnations.— The 

most probable reason for their not blooming is 
want of sun and perhaps air. Few plants love 
exposure to both more than these, and they 
should have the most sunburnt spot in the 
garden. If the position is at all shaded or over 
sheltered, move them. There is no place so good 
for them as a south border where they get the 
full sun all the day through. When at all 
shaded the wood does not get substance enough 
to form flower buds. Now is a good time to 
transplant.—J. C. B. 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 


Extracts from a Garden Diary—November 19 

to November 24. 

Covering Scaitale crowns, bo as to be able to get at 
them dunng severe froat. Pruning old Apple trees. 
Cleaning Violeta in frames. Plants In flower Migno¬ 
nette, Heliotropes, Narcissi, Roman Hyacinths, 8carlet, 
Pink, and Scented Pelargoniums, Heaths, Coleus, Epa- 
crises, Primnlas, Bouvardias, Chrysanthemums, Tree 
Carnations, Fuchsias. Schizostylls, Gardenias, Cytisus, 
and Violets. Planting Peach trees. Moving a Rood¬ 
sized Apricot tree. Cleaning herb beds. Digging flower 
borders. Sowing Radishes in orchard honse. Still plant¬ 
ing Cabbage. Taking up some Jerusalem Ar lohokes, and 
storing them in soil to be ready in case ot irost. Broccoli 
coming In plentifully. Stubbing up useless fruit trees. 
Pruning, tying, and painting trees in orchard house. 
Clearing Asparagus beds. Weeding beds of Lily of the 
Valley. Shifting some old plants of Calceolaria uurea 
floribunda into 8-lnch pots for spring flowering. Putting 
hatches of Asparagus and Rhubarb into heat. Covering 
Strawberry plants in pots from frost and snow. Putting 
some litter over Parsnips, Seakale, and Artichokes. Pack¬ 
ing some Parsnips, Carrots, Salsafy, etc., in ashes in root 
house, so as to get at them easily during frosty weather. 
Pruning pillar Roses. Beginning to prune Vines gene¬ 
rally ; also espalier Pears. Taking up and re-planting 
over-luxuriant Plum trees in order to induce fruitfulness. 
Patting in Roses and Pinks to force. Taking up, dress¬ 
ing, and re-planting Briers. Washing Camellias. Making 
up hotbed for Carrota and Radishes. Securing the 
necessary quantity of Chrysanthemums for cuttings, and 
seeing that those to be saved are correctly labelled. 

QlOBBhOUSM. 

Heaths. —The different varietiee of winter 
flowering Heaths are always effective when in 
bloom, gronped as they usually are with other 
plants in greenhouses and conservatories ; never¬ 
theless, when subjected to the treatment they 
often receive, their cultivation is far from being 
satisfactory, inasmuch as they frequently fail to 
survive their first season of blooming. Similar 
to the whole Erica family, they like cool, airy 
treatment, with a position where they receive 
plenty of light, in place of which when used in 
conservatories that are kept above a greenhouse 
temperature that at once has the effect of 
starting them into growth, more especially if, 
for appearance sake, they are stood in the body 
of the house, crowded and overhung with other 
plants. It is very much better to confine their 
use to strnctnres where a lower temperature is 
maintained, and in all cases to keep them as 
near the glass as possible, even if some little 
sacrifice is made in the arrangement for general 
effect. They sbonld be frequently looked over 
to see that they are free from mildew, for if this 
attacks them, in a very few days so much of the 
foliage will be destroyed as to endanger their 
existence. Dry flowers of sulphur is a safer 
application at this season than syringing with 
water impregnated with sulphur. Where spring 
and summer flowering Heaths are grown, they 
should be looked over for mildew every ten days 
during moist weather; this is the more necessary 
after a cool, sunless summer, in which the 
season’s growth has had less than the ordinary 
opportunity of getting fully hardened up. It is 
a pity that in so comparatively few places Heaths 
are now included amongst the greenhouse plants. 
An impression often exists that even when 
required for home decoration, they must 
necessarily be subjected to the stiffly trained, 
formal condition in which they are frequently 
seen on the exhibition stage; this is altogether 
a mistake. Most of the many varieties now in 
cultivation are naturally of a compact, bushy 
habit, requiring little support from stakes and 


ties if the groundwork has been properly laid by 
judicious training in the first stages of their 
existence. After this when they have to be no 
further moved about than from one house to 
another, very little support, with a total absence 
of the formality present in highly-trained 
specimens, will suffice. But to arrive at this the 
plants should be well cut back each season after 
flowering. With a judicious selection of the 
freest growing, vigorous kinds, a collection can 
be kept up at a less cost than is often expended 
on plants that do not possess half the beauty and 
interest which they do. Anyone disposed to 
begin the cultivation of these plants, or add to 
the stock they already have, will find this a 
better season to get them in than waiting until 
spring, when the soft growth then present is 
much more likely to get injured by packing and 
transit. Where a house or pit is devoted to them 
they should be kept well up to the glass and have 
air admitted liberally every day when not frosty, 
avoiding a direct draught on them as much as 
possible by letting it in on the side opposite to 
where the wind happens to be. For the next 
three months the plants will require less water. 
This applies more particularly to the hardest 
wooded, slowest growing kinds. 

Hard - wooded greenhouse plants._ 

Everything that is at all subject to the attacks 
of mildew, such as the Boronias, Hedaromas, Ac., 
should from time to time be examined to see that 
they are free from mildew and greenfly, as if 
once the foliage gets thinned by either vegetable 
or animal parasites it requires some time to 
correct the bad effects. 

Bulb fobcing.— The last lot of Roman 
Hyacinths should now be put in heat, to give a 
succession to such as were brought on earlier; 
at the same time a selection of the most forward 
large flowered varieties ought also to be put in 
warmth, bringing them on gradually, as if at all 
hurried both the foliage and the flower-stems 
will have a drawn, sickly appearance that goes 
far to destroy their beauty. In ail cases see 
that plenty of roots have been formed before 
they are submitted to heat. 

Amabyllises. —It is not well to excite a 
general collection or valuable sorts of these 
handsome flowered bulbs so early as this by 
subjecting them to heat, but where there is likely 
to be a deficiency of flowers in the first months 
of the year, a few of the commonest kinds may 
be induced to move slowly by placing them in 
an intermediate temperature, if possible on a 
Bhelf near the roof, where there is always a 
movement in the atmosphere that has a counter¬ 
acting effect to the weakening influences of heat 
in the dull winter days. 

Euchabis.— Some growers of the useful E. 
amazonica fail to bloom it satisfactorily by the 
usual treatment of growth, rest, and excitement. 
The cause of this will usually be found in the 
growth never being fairly stopped through the 
presence of combined heat and moisture—too 
much to allow the necessary cessation. When 
any difficulty in this way is experienced, they 
can be made to flower by turning them out of 
their pots, and shaking the Boil from the roots 
and repotting. This rarely fails to induce strong 
bulbs to flower. With some, E. Candida does not 
bloom so freely as the older kind, but shaking 
out and separating has a like effect in inducing 
it to flower. When better known this sort is 
likely to be a general favourite, its smaller, more 
elegant blooms being better adapted for some 
purposes than those of E. amazonica. 

Bouvabdias.— Where a good stock of these 
is at hand in the shape of plants possessing the 
full complement of vigour, there are few things 
that yield such a continuous supply of flowers. 
Where they have been grown on the planting-out 
method in pits or frames during the summer and 
taken up and potted some time ago, each plant 
will have several shoots something like 18 inches 
or 20 inches long, and as thick at the base as an 
ordinary pencil. Growth such as this will pro¬ 
duce flowers from six to eight joints below the 
leading points, coming in in succession after the 
first are over ; but to bring these up to their full 
size they must be kept in a brisk growing 
temperature close to the glass, so as to counter¬ 
act the effect of the warmth. Without this the 
flowers will be soft and liable to flag when cut 
Plants that have been grown on the planting-out 
system are better able to give a succession of 
full sized flowers than the weaker examples 


418 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


|Nov. 17, 1883. 


resulting from pot-growth all through the season. 
Such as are cultivated in the latter way should 
be regularly supplied with manure water once 
every ten days or fortnight, otherwise the 
successional bloom will be weak and poor; this 
is especially the case if much restricted at the 
roots. There is nothing like beginning early in 
the propagation of Bouvardias. In most cases 
winter-struck cuttings are quite as satisfactory 
for blooming the following autumn and winter 
as are cut-back older stock. It is now time to 
prepare a few plants of each of the varieties 
grown for producing cuttings. This is best done 
by drying them off much in the way that old 
examples of Fuchsia are done for the winter, so 
as to stop all growth and cause most of the 
leaves to fall off. When subjected to this kind 
of treatment in a little warmth above that of an 
ordinary greenhouse for about six weeks, all the 
soft green portion of the points of the shoots 
should be cut away, giving water and placing 
the plants in a brisk, growing temperature, where 
they will break growth from almost every eye. 
When the young shoots are from It inches to 
2 inches long, if taken off with a heel and put 
in heat, they will strike almost as freely as 
Verbenas. 

Flower Garden. 

Except the usual routine duties connected 
with the maintenance of neatness, there is now 
nothing that demands immediate attention, but 
for all that the work should go on just the same 
as if it were pressing or important; there will 
then be no need to dread the arrival of the 
busy season, as the work will be in advance of 
it. In all gardens there is always some parts 
that can be improved, and now is the time to 
set about such work, and by way of reminder 
to others, it may be well to allude to our own 
doings at the present time. 

Roses. —The major part are being lifted, the 
edgings of the beds cut, and the ground deeply 
trenched and heavily manured; long woody 
roots are shortened back and suckers pulled off. 
Replanting is then done, and the beds are at 
once thickly mulched—those in positions that 
must look neat with Cocoa fibre, but where 
appearance is of less consequence, with good 
farmyard manure. Those who are intending to 
increase their stock cannot do better than plant 
now. In some of the beds (not close to the 
Roses) we have planted Tulips and Hyacinths, 
and in others Violas, Daisies, Primroses, and 
Forget-me-nots. 

Herbaceous border. —Many of our plants 
have outgrown their positions. Some have 
spread to the injury of adjoining plants; some 
are too tall for their present places; and so we 
are lifting them all, and this will enable us to 
prepare the border thoroughly by trenching out 
all the old roots and adding liberally both fresh 
loam and manure. This done, the arrangement 
of plants will be something after this fashion : 
For the moat part the tall growers will be in 
groups of three plants at the back part of the 
border, but there will be here and there a group 
nearer the front, as uniformity either as to 
height or position seems out of character with 
this class of plants. In the front part of the 
border will be arranged the weaker growers; 
these will be in groups also, and vary in number 
from three to nine according to the varying 
height and spread of the plants. This done so 
far as plants and time to do it will allow, the 
more naked spots both between and over such 
plants as Lilies, Paeonies, and Funkias will be 
carpeted with evergreen Sedums and other suit¬ 
able plants; and those portions of border not 
so treated will be surfaced either with finely 
sifted leaf-soil or Cocoa fibre. If there is likely 
to be a scarcity of herbaceous subjects, small 
evergreen shrubs, disposed at regular intervals 
throughout the border, may be used with excel¬ 
lent effect, and of course can be moved at any 
time that the herbaceous plants need additional 
space. This, together with regravelling of 
walks and planting a clump or two of Rhodo¬ 
dendrons, constitutes the whole of our present 
doings in the flower garden. 

Fruit. 

Vines. —Houses from which all the fruit has 
been cut may be left open night and day, as 
exposure to all weathers, including a few degrees 
of frost, does the Vines no harm, while their 
rest is as effectual as it can be. Follow up 
pruning as the leaves fall, always bearing in 

Digitized by GOOgk 


mind that a long rest after pruning is in favour 
of strong, compact bunches. Remove all inert 
surface soil quite down to the roots, and replace 
it with fresh turf and bones immediately after 
the houses are cleansed. If inside borders have 
been allowed to get very dry they should be well 
watered before the top-dressing is applied, and 
old Vines from which heavy crops have been 
taken may have a little good rotten manure 
added to the compost, but young ones will be 
best without it until the fruit is set and begin¬ 
ning to swell. The month of November, 
particularly when the weather is mild and damp, 
is the worst in the whole year for ripe Grapes in 
general, and thin-skinned kinds like the 
Hamburgh in particular. Fortunately the foliage 
is now ripe, and in many cases cleared away, and 
with its removal the worst cause of damping has 
disappeared. In very late houses the main leaves 
may not be ripe enough to part from the Vines, 
but where this is the case a great deal of light 
and air may be let in by cutting away all 
laterals and shortening the fruit-bearing shoots 
to within two or three joints beyond the bunch. 
A little fire heat will be required for keeping out 
damp, but great judgment will be needed in its 
application, as sudden changes are injurious to 
ripe Grapes, either while hanging on the Vines 
or after they are removed to the Grape room. 

Vegetables. 

We are just now lifting Rhubarb and 
Asparagus for forcing. The former forces 
best when kept quite dark, but the latter must 
have air and light if flavour is wanted. We are 
provided with a capital place in which to force 
this delicacy, viz., an old Pine pit just emptied 
of Tomatoes. This pit will again be planted 
with Tomatoes in January and February ; there¬ 
fore Asparagus just fills up the blank. We have 
Mint in shallow boxes, Tarragon, Mustard and 
Cress, and a host of other little things, in¬ 
cluding most kinds of spring flowers for 
forcing, also in this pit, therefore it is a most 
useful and accommodating structure. Outside, 
now that the weather is much better than it has 
been, we are manuring, trenching, and digging 
every available inch of land, throwing it up 
rough. By February it will be like a bed of 
ashes, well pulverised and well sweetened— 
certainly one of the main things as regards 
kitchen garden cropping. Our site for Onions 
next season is just cleared, having been cropped 
with Snow’s Broccoli, which is now laid in a 
spare border. To this ground we give a thorough 
manuring, dig it deeply and roughly, and in the 
meanwhile we mix up old night soil with ashes 
and wait for frost; then we give a good top¬ 
dressing with this mixture, and as we never sow 
our Onions before the end of March ample time 
is given for all to be mixed and worked to¬ 
gether, a little trouble, I admit, but fine crops 
are the result. Cos Lettuce should now be 
lifted and protected. Endive we find most use¬ 
ful, and the same may be said of Chicory, which 
we blanch in the Mushroom house, and I find 
that a sprinkling of powdered charcoal among 
the plants helps to dispel damp. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

Ip there is room to grow fairly large plants, now 
is the time to get in a stock of Chrysanthemum 
cuttings for next year’s flowering. Plants started 
the previous year get harder and more woody, and 
produce more and better flowers, than spring- 
struck plants, which have to be grown on quickly, 
and are, consequently, softer than the old stocks 
—at least, such is our experience. Indeed, where 
there is space to grow them, we find plants that 
have flowered in 6-inch or 7-inch pots one season, 
if after blooming cut partially down, encouraged 
to break again, judiciously stopped, and potted 
on into very large pots, give much better results 
than young plants in every way. There will now 
be plenty of young growths to be found at the 
base of all flowering Chrysanthemums, which will 
make the best of cuttings. Put them into well 
drained pots of sandy soil, and keep a little close 
till rooted. A gentle warmth, of course, greatly 
assists this process, but is by no means indispen¬ 
sable, good plants being produced in a little 
longer time under cool treatment. 

There is still time to pot Hyacinths, Tulips, 
and other bulbs if required, but the earlier they 
were potted, even for late flowering, so as to allow 
the plants time to make a strong and plentiful 
root growth before the tops are required to move 


much, and to develop their blooms as slowly as 
possible, the finer will be the result. Among 
bulbs, do not forget a few of the beautiful many- 
coloured Ixias. Scillas too, particularly S. 
sibirica and prmcox, are wonderfully bright and 
unique in colour, while one of the earliest and 
prettiest spring flowers that can be grown is the 
yellow Winter Aconite, which may be cultivated 
either in pots or in the open ground. Like Cro¬ 
cuses, this gives a charming effect if planted in 
turf. 

Primulas are now coming into full flower, and 
should be kept evenly moist in a genial airy 
temperature of 15° to 65°, with all the light 
possible. 

Cratmgus pyracantha and Cotoneaster micro- 
phylla are now very gay with their brillant red 
berries. Both are capital town plants and are 
invaluable for covering and beautifjing other¬ 
wise bare and ugly walls. 

On window sills (even outside), if nothing else 
seems to do, a few pots of common Thrift (now 
flowering a Becond time with us) and House- 
leek will flourish anywhere, and look green if not 
very gay. B. C. R. 

INDOOR PLANTS. 

l _ 

SEASONABLE NOTES. 

Watering pot plants— Now that the days 
will soon be at their shortest, the moment is an 
opportune one for saying a few words on a 
subject which is of much importance, and is a 
more or less puzzling one to many. I am strongly 
of opinion that watering pot plants is an art 
which even the most experienced gardener never 
becomes quite master of, and it is certainly 
during the winter months, when languid root 
action is accompanied by little or no top growth, 
that the grower’s skill in the use of the watering 
pot is put to greatest proof. When the long 
summer days bring with them great activity of 
the functions, any little error may soon be 
rectified, but it is far otherwise at this season, 
when an overdose of water may cripple 
permanently, if it does not kill. In the cool 
greenhouse, where the temperature ranges very 
low for days together, great caution must be 
exercised, and as the soil is cold, and the 
roots in a general way almost at a standstill, the 
evil effects of overwatering are more acutely felt 
than where the average temperature is more 
stimulating. Watering in winter has been often 
epitomised by the phrase, “ water when dry,” 
but althongh this is a rule which will apply to 
the generality of plants sheltered by a glass 
roof, at that time there are notable exceptions to 
it, neither should it in any case be followed to 
the letter. Take, for instance. Camellias and 
Azaleas. The former, though as regards actual 
growth aro at rest, are really hard at work, there 
being an unspen process of development going 
on in the flower bud which, if stopped, has most 
disastrous results on the form, size, and colour 
of the flower. Lacking a sufficiency of the 
sustaining fluid after the buds are formed, the 
flowers must be deficient in one or more of 
their most pleasing characteristics. It, therefore, 
follows that a vigorous specimen laden with 
buds will require a much larger share of attention 
in watering than one which is not thus burdened 
The same of Azaleas, winter-flowering Heaths, 
Cytisuses, Coronillas, Abutilons, Ac., and in the 
same category should be placed Cinerarias, Calceo¬ 
larias, Primulas, and Cyclamens, which continue 
to advance all the winter through. A pretty 
safe rule with these is to allow them to 
approach the verge of dryness, and watering 
always before they' become quite dry. This rule 
will apply to plants of a woody nature generally, 
but only to healthy plants. When a plant seems 
to have come into a sickly state, and an examina¬ 
tion of the roots shows that they are not quite 
healthy, allow the soil to dry out between each 
watering. This persevered in will always restore 
root activity, and will briDg the soil once more 
into a wholesome condition. The plants that 
need least water are succulents; they can go 
almost without it; and next to them cotne Zonal 
Geraniums, those which were taken up from the 
open ground requiring scarcely any, bnt Pelar¬ 
goniums of the show, fancy, and regal types, 
Verbenas, Ageratnms, Fetunias, &c., should be 
kept just moist. 

Insect pester—N ow is a good time to for¬ 
ward progress in spring, by making vigorous 
war on the many foes which plants under glass 


1 

'i 




Nov. 17, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


419 


are heir to. Too often these are left in their 
snag quarters all the winter, and with the return 
of bright warm days, they show their apprecia¬ 
tion of the leniency and favourable conditions 
accorded them by multiplying with alarming 
rapidity. A very sharp look-out should be kept 
for greenfly on all soft-wooded plants, and I 
know of nothing better and safer as an in¬ 
secticide than tobacco powder, a tin of which 
should always be at hand, and the young shoots 
and the undersides of the leaves dusted, if only 
one fly is perceived on a plant, for one fly left 
to multiply* through the winter suffices to cause 
a large amount of labour and vexation in spring. 
Camellias, Acacias, Oranges, Lapagerias, and 
some other hard-wooded plants are much liable 
to be infested with scale, which, attaching itself 
to the stem, branches, and foliage, sucks out the 
life-juices therefrom, and causes the plant to 
come into a feeble state of health. Soft soap 
at the rate of 3 ounces to the gallon, dissolving 
it in hot water, will bring it away, using a tooth¬ 
brush for the stems and woody parts, and 
thoroughly cleansing with pure water afterwards. 
Thrips are apt to be troublesome to Azaleas 
especially, and where the plants are small, they 
should at once be dipped in tobacco water at the 
rate of 4 ounces to the gallon, straining through 
a cloth. When too large for this treatment 
syringe the under surface of the leaves. This 
will kill both eggs and mature insects. In warm 
houses, Dracmnas, Crotons, Ixoras, and other 
line-leaved and flowering plants are liable to the 
attacks of this post, and the best way in their 
case is to well sponge the leaves with tobacco 
water. Mealy bug breeds freely all the winter 
through in a sufficiently high temperature, 
Gardenias, Stephanotis, many Ferns, Passiiloras, 
Francisceas, and indeed the major portion of 
warm house plants, being liable to be badly in¬ 
fested unless a system of cleaning is pursued. 
By thoroughly overhauling the stock as soon as 
the short days come, and destroying every insect 
as it appears, the labour of keeping the plants 
clean in the summer time will be rendered more 
easy. 

Cleanliness.— The importance of keeping 
the foliage clean and free from imparities of all 
kinds is not so frequently borne in mind as it 
should be. No plant can be truly healthy when 
the breathing pores are choked by dirt. In the 
case of room plants this frequent cleaning of the 
foliage is of the utmost urgency, and no one 
can expect to keep window plants in health un¬ 
less they pay scrupulous attention to this matter. 
Dracatnas, Ficuses, Aspidistras, and other fine 
foliaged subjects, should have both the upper 
and under surfaces of the leaves sponged twice 
a week, and Ferns should be well sprinkled, in 
all cases using tepid water. It often happens 
that the water used for syringing in summer is 
impregnated with lime, and leaves a stain 
on the foliage, so that washing is necessary 
if the plants are to look clean and healthy 
through the winter. 

Ventilation. — From November to the 
middle of March the front or side ventilators, as 
the case may be, are but little needed. On very 
few days daring the winter months is it advis¬ 
able, or even permissible, to let a full volume of 
air into the glasshouse. In warm houses little 
or no ventilating is required; in winter there is 
enough entry of cold air by the laps and other 
ways to allow all the needful change. The in¬ 
mates of such places love a close, stagnant at¬ 
mosphere, but in the case of cool greenhouses a 
systematic course of air-giving must, be practised, 
or the plants grown therein would become perma¬ 
nently enfeebled; but the top ventilators are all 
that is necessary for the purpose, and unless the 
weather is frosty throughout the day, or foggy, a 
little air should be admitted by them,varying the 
amount according to the temperature. There is 
often a’great temptation to open both top and 
bottom ventilators on bright days in early 
spring, when the sun comes with sufficient force 
to gladden, but is not powerful enough to warm 
the air much. It is at such times that plants 
catch cold, as it were, and the grower is lucky if 
this is but a temporary affair, the chances being 
that the seed of permanent debility is sown, 
especially if the practice is often repeated. 

Bulbs.—T hose who have not yet potted their 
Hyacinths, Tulips, and ether spring-flowering 
bulbs should lose no time in so doing. Of 
Hyacinths, moderate sized bulbs will have room 
enough in 4^-inch got ^e>t ^yai^^| 


^re¬ 


quiring a size larger. Tulips may be placed 
three in a' 11-inch pot, and I know of nothing 
more effective than good, well-grown pots of 
Rex rubrorum, Tournesol Yellow, and La 
Candeur, these three forming as regards colour 
a fine contrast. Rot firmly, burying the bulbs 
about half an inch or so, and give a moderate 
watering. The very best place for newly-potted 
bulbs is a frame where they can be plunged in 
ashes or light soil, and covered with about 
3 inches of the same, as this keeps the bulbs in 
their place, and preserves the soil uniformly 
m list without watering. Failing this accommo¬ 
dation they may be plunged at the foot of a 
north wall, or anywhere where they are posi¬ 
tively sheltered from heavy rains, or they may 
be placed on the floor of a cool house, taking 
care that no drip falls on them, and that the 
soil is maintained just nicely moist. J. C. 

Byficet : 

CULTURE OF THE AURICULA. 

As a reader of Gakdening, I have noticed the 
enquiries respecting the culture of the above 
most beautiful of spring flowers, and have 
been waiting forsomecorrespondent to enlighten 
us on the subject. The wonder to me is that the 
cultivation of this species of the Primula has 
been so neglected of late years. I can only ac¬ 
count for it in therage therehasbeen for bedding 
plants, where the bloom has been less studied 
than tiie foliage. I think, however, there are 
visible signs of a return to the old-fashioned 
sorts of garden flowers, and with a little care in 
arrangement, I feel assured that an equally good 
effect may he obtained, and certainly a much 
greater variety of sweet-scented flowers for cut 
blooms, and what is of much greater importance 
to many, the cost of gardening materially 
lessened. Though not a professional gardener 
or an authority on the subject of Auricula cul¬ 
ture, I have been a staunch adherent to the old- 
fashioned sorts of flowers, and the culture of the 
alpine Auricula has been for many years, and is 
now, my favourite hobby. I would ask, where 
can any amateur florist find a more interesting 
one? Certainly Auricula culture requires an 
amount of patience and careful treatment, and 
especially the show kinds. I would not recom¬ 
mend anyone as a beginning to start upon show 
kinds. The alpine section will be found equally 
interesting and success more certain, and let 
yonr enquirers try their hands on them; and, as 
a warning, I would say, they are hardy plants, 
so do not kill them with kindness. If my ex¬ 
perience can be of any service to them, I wil¬ 
lingly give it, although I was in hopes.some 
recognised authority on the subject would have 
answered your correspondents’ enquiries. Many 
years ago, when I lived in my native county, 
Ayrshire, I cultivated the Auricula, and so 
enamoured was I with my favourites, that when I 
transplanted myself to the land of Roses (Here¬ 
fordshire), I brought a few of my favourites 
along, and now that few is represented by some¬ 
thing like a thousand that will bloom next 
spring. I do not know that I have any of the 
lineal descendants of these few, as my 
stndy has been to raise seedlings, and 
thereby obtain many beautiful varieties of 
all shades of colour. Useless specimens are, 
of course, consigned to the rubbish heap, and the 
good ones staked, and in due course after bloom¬ 
ing removed to reserve quarters for next spring’s 
beddings. Now, as I have said I grow from seed, 
and would recommend others to do likewise if 
they wish to obtain a stock for bedding purposes, 
the first thing I have to do is to describe the 
manner in which seed should be sown. In 
gardening, as in everything else, I contend one 
should study nature; consequently,'the season 
to sow Auricula seed is immediately following 
the blooming season, when in the natural course 
the seed-pods would shed their seed. I use 
boxes about 6 inches or 8 inches deep, 2 feet 
long, with holes drilled in the bottom, and fill 
them with good, strong, loamy soil. On this I 
sow the seed, and sprinkle some fine sand and 
wood ashes over it, placing the boxes in some 
shady nook—generally under a north wall. If the 
seed obtained (I never grow from my own 
raising) be new seed. It germinates quickly 
enough, but I have found hundreds come up 
twelve months after the seed had been sown, and 
during the pricking out of the plants, which bad 
germinated quickly after being sown ; and as I 
have found many grand specimens come from 
the latest germinating seed, I would caution 


amateurs against throwing out the contents of 
their boxes or seed-pans until at least twelve 
months have elapsed, and not then until the 
boxes have been placed under glass for a few 
weeks to see if there may be a few latent seeds 
still to germinate. These seed-pans should never 
be watered; if the soil gets dry, sink them 
gently into water until the soil has absorbed 
sufficient to be moist—not soaked. The danger 
in watering is to wash the plants out of root, as 
for a time they run their tiny roots along the 
surface of the soil. As soon as the plants are 
fit to handle, I transfer them to other boxes of 
rich soil where they go ahead. Subsequently I 
transplant them to the open ground, and shift 
them twice or thrice before planting them 
in their blooming quarters. I believe the oftener 
they are transplanted the more hardy and robust 
they become. I bloom my plants in square beds 
1 foot between the rows and 9 inches from plant 
to plant; the beds are slightly raised, so as to 
keep them dry in the winter, and as I have the 
number above stated, I have planted them so as 
to be permanent beds for three years, when I 
shall take them up for division. 

For years I was troubled in dry summers with 
the plants shrivelling up. Now I mulch the 
ground with wood ashes from a wheelwright’s 
yard, and 1 find it perfection, not only keeping 
the roots moist and the leaves dry underneath, 
bat, it acts as a fertiliser, and the blooms benefit 
immensely from this treatment. Before]placing 
this mulching in I give the ground a good 
coating of soot and pigeon manure, as I find 
the Auricula likes good food, although it esm 
live on poor diet. This season I have planted 
Hyacinthsbetween the rows of one bed, N arcissns 
in another, and in the third I have planted 
Ranunucnlus. When they have done blooming 
I intend cutting them off, let them remain in 
the ground, and plant Gladioli in their stead, 
leaving the Auricula as a carpet. This system 
1 think will not only look well, but obviate the 
necessity of removal, with the exception of the 
Gladioli, which of course I shall get up in the 
autumn and topdress the beds anew for next 
season's spring blooming. Under this treatment 
my plants do well, and at the present time I am 
getting a good supply of cut bloom from them 
when the rest of my garden flowers are gone; 
and the plants are looking vigorous and healthy, 
with very few decayed leaves appearing. I have 
not had a single plant die since taking to the 
use of wood ashes and soot. Slugs, too, give it 
a wide berth. I have now given my experience 
in the culture of the Auricula, and truBt some 
of your readers may benefit by it. 

Hereford .. J. Glasgow. 


Notes on the Camellia.— I have many 
times noticed questions asked* in Gakdening 
respecting Camellias—“ the buds drop, and the 
plants look sickly, and how am I to manage 
them ? ’’—and yet almost weekly there appear 
notes of great help, if noticed, for all who are 
not successful with this plant. To all such, I 
will endeavour to make a few remarks in a very 
plain way of how to grow Camellias with suc¬ 
cess. To anyone possessed of a vinery there 
cannot be a better place for the Camellia. If the 
stage is not running to the back wall, I would 
advise making a border 2 feet wide at the back 
of the house, with 2-feet high wall in front. 
Single brick will do; put in drainage the depth 
of one course of brick, and be sure to make it 
perfect with holes in the bottom course, or floor, 
for the drainage to get away. The drainage may 
consist of pieces of brick or burnt ballast (clay); 
put the coarse portion of it at the bottom and 
the small on the top of it. A layer of thin turf 
should be put on this. Grass side downwards, or, 
if turf is not easy to get, any other fibrous ma¬ 
terial will do. The soil may be good loam with 
plenty of fibre in it, mixed with poat in equal 
proportions, and it. should be broken up with the 
hand in pieces, and not be chopped. The plants 
should then be planted at the required places, 
and all be made firm round and about them 
as the work is going on. The soil Bhould 
not be in a wet statu, but in a friable condition, 
that it may be made firm, as if making a Mush¬ 
room bed, and add a little coarse silver sand to 
the soil. But, it will be said, we want a plant 
in a pot that can be moved to the conservatory; 
and I say that may be had with the careful cul¬ 
ture necessary to all greenhouse plants, which is 
strict attention to drainage and careful water¬ 
ing—drainage first; soil, an before stated, made 


420 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Not. 17, 1883. 


well firm, and water to keep the same in a uni¬ 
form state of moisture; but bear in mind that 
the plant of 3 feet high should have a 10-inch 
pot, and with this treatment the growth of the 
coming year will be set with buds that will 
stand a London fog, and leave a fair crop to cut 
at. The fear will be again next antumn of the 
buds dropping j and I may say mine drop, be¬ 
cause there is not room for them all to stop on, 
for I have them studded with eight or ten buds 
on a shoot, and of fine robust health, and my 
treatment is to syringe overhead every bright 
day, summer and winter. Give plenty of root- 
waterings at all times—the drainage takes it 
away, with soot or guano once a week, and the 
foliage will be all that can be wished for. 

Beltize Pari. E. Meacock. 

Tree or perpetual flowering Carnations. 
—During the fine weather in the last days of 
October, and early in November, it was possible 
to cut a few stray Carnations out of doors; but 
they were very poor in comparison to those grown 
under glass with a little heat. From now until 
Carnations come in again out-of-doors it is pos¬ 
sible to have Carnations, and beautiful ones too, 
but the petals do not develop themselves with¬ 
out artificial heat. The plants flowering now and 
onwards were propagated from cuttings early in 
the year, they are now in the form of single plants 
in 6-inch and 7-inch pots. Some of the plants have 
more than a score of flowers upon them in 
different stages of development. The plants like 
a dry heat, such as Zonal Pelargoniums, Bouvar- 
dias, ice., flower well in at this season. Cuttings 
may be put in at any time of the year ; we propa¬ 
gated a quantity of plants in September. These, 
if well managed, will flower in May and June, a 
few of them earlier. I like seifs of decided 
colours, and the best of them are Juliette and 
Mrs. Llewellyn, bright rose; A. Alegatiere, Field 
Marshal, Rufus,and Worthington Smith, scarlet; 
Andalusia is fringed buff, and Mrs. George Haw- 
trey bright yellow. The best white varieties are 
Gloire de Nancy, The Queen, La Belle, and 
L’Hermoine. Miss Joliffe is pale pink. — J. 
Douglas. 

Forcing bulbs —Where ordinary Dutch 
bulbs, such as Tulips, Hyacinths, Ac., are required 
for early flowering, one sees various plants em¬ 
ployed for forwarding them, and amongstothers 
that of keeping them close as soon as potted, for¬ 
getful of the fact that root action must be in full 
sway before the flowers will advance. For early 
flowering the chief point is to pot early; then to 
place the pots out-of-doors, and cover them with 
coal ashes to prevent damage by slugs, and also 
to keep the bulbs in a more uniform state as re¬ 
gards temperature and moisture than when 
exposed. Treated in this way, by the middle of 
November the pots will be full of roots and the 
tops just starting—that is, if they were potted 
early in September. When introduced into the 
house most progress is made when the crowns 
are kept in darkness; therefore at that time 
they may be placed anywhere underneath the 
stage, and should have another pot inverted 
over them, as they can then be examined at any 
time without inconvenience. Lilies of the Valley, 
on the other hand, flower without any signs of 
root action; therefore they may be introduced 
into heat as soon as potted; indeed, when 
required to bloom before Christmas such a course 
is absolutely necessary, and for that purpose well 
ripened crowns must be obtained (those large, 
single ones from Germany are the easiest to 
force), and they cannot be had thoroughly ripened 
much before November. A pretty subject for 
forcing, and one with which there is but little 
difficulty, is the Siberian Squill (Scilla sibirica), 
the bright blue flowers of which are very effective 
during the dull season. It requires similar 
treatment to that usually given to Tulips; in¬ 
deed, it forces just as easily as the early 
Due Van Thol section of that showy genus.—P. 

Management of soft-wooded cuttings. 
—These are very liable to damp off. The best 
preventive is removing any decaying material 
every morning. If this practice is followed out 
it will be found that a few minutes will suffice to 
look over a great number of cuttings; indeed, no 
more time is occupied than when they are looked 
over perhaps twice a week, and the difference in 
the number lost from damping off under the two 
modes of treatment is very great. Another thing 
requiring great care is giving air, in speaking of 
which I do not refer to such as Pelargoniums and 
things of that rfass.'but rather to puttings of deli¬ 


cate stove and greenhouse plants kept in close 
cases in the confined atmosphere of a propagating 
house. For such the best practice is, the first thing 
in the morning, to take off all lights, bell-glasses, 
or other means of covering, and wipe them and 
allow them to remain off as long as possible with¬ 
out causing the cuttings to flag. While the cover¬ 
ings are off look out for decaying portions, and 
take advantage of the opportunity to water those 
that require it. A good way is to have a case kept 
to which more air is given than to the others, to 
which the cuttings may be removed as soon as 
they commence to root, as the atmosphere of a 
close case is very weakening to any plants left in 
it after they are rooted, and when sufficiently 
established no time should be lost in restoring 
them to their usual temperature. In the case of 
cuttings in pits or frames out-of-doors it is some¬ 
times necessary to give a small amount of air 
during the whole day, especially if the pits be in 
no way heated, as in that case the condensed 
moisture settles heavily on the foliage, and it is 
necessary to dry it up sometimes. When any 
signs of decay are manifest on delicate cuttings 
indoors it may often be arrested by giving a 
little air to the cases during the night, at which 
time it may be given with impunity, while in the 
daytime the cuttings would flag, and that would 
undoubtedly militate against their chances of 
success.—T. 

Periwinkles as basket plants.— There 
are many positions where, owing to the low 
temperature which prevails during the winter 
and cold draughts, it is a matter of great diffi¬ 
culty to embellish satisfactorily with plants which 
have but an ordinary amount of tenderness in 
them. Halls, corridors, unheated glass-houses, 
and similar places would be much brightened np 
by the employment of a few well-arranged 
hanging baskets filled with the plain-leaved and 
variegated Periwinkles. If removed to a cool 
position in the open in summer, they would 
make a Jgood growth, and could be employed 
year after year, the only labour involved being 
copious waterings in hot weather and some 
liquid manure from time to time. The golden 
variegated Periwinkle is a really beautiful plant, 
and has such a bright appearance in the winter 
season aB to render its employment indoors very 
satisfactory. The silver variegated kinds have 
a very neat and attractive appearance, and one’s 
time might certainly be worse employed than in 
making up a few good baskets of these Peri¬ 
winkles for winter decoration. With a few 
evergreen hardy Ferns they would look charm¬ 
ing.—J. C., Byfleet. 

10566. — Tuberoses not flowering. — 

The first error in the treatment of the Tuberoses 
mentioned was stuffing five tubers into a 6-inch 
pot, and I am greatly surprised the tubers ever 
started an inch high against a north wall in the 
month of November. I should like “ H. K. ’’ to 
state how many weeks, or even months, the 
tubers were making this inch of growth. “ H. K. ” 
states they were flooded with water while 
plunged, this being one of the greatest misfor¬ 
tunes that could happen to them if the tubers 
were in a dormant state at the time of plunging. 
I know much has been said of late of the 
difficulty in blooming Tuberoses. For my part, I 
find it a very easy matter to bloom them under 
the following treatment. I obtained my tubeis 
in April, and commenced potting them at once 
into a compost of nearly one half of a good rich 
fibrous loam, chopped into small pieces, the 
other half of well decomposed cow manure, in 
addition to some very coarse sharp Band. For 
the use of these tubers, I find there is nothing 
better than a 4-inch pot for single tubers. I have 
flowered them in 3-inch pots. Why I advocate 
a 4-inch is because the Tuberose being a gross 
feeder, it requires more attention as regards 
watering when grown in smaller pots, but 
one great advantage of small pots, is, they 
can easily be packed together in small baskets 
or any ornamental stands to embellish the 
drawing-room. In crocking the pots, good 
drainage is indispensable; always add a little 
charcoal either with the crocks or soil. It is of 
great importance to press the soil as firmly as pos¬ 
sible round the tuber; great care should always 
be taken not to bruise the tubers. I have 
always found it then absolutely necessary to 
have a brisk bottom heat of 90° to ensure the 
bulbs starting into growth. Water must be given 
sparingly during this period. When they have 
made growth to the height of 6 inches or 


8 inches, remove them to a temperature of 60° 
or 70°. It is of great importance not to let the 
foliage draw up weakly. Keep them close to the 
glass; water when dry, but not till they are dry ; 
then after twenty-one days have elapsed, if the 
bloom-spikes do not make their appearance and 
the plants are likely to make foliage instead, as 
is often the case, keep them dry—just bo that the 
foliage does not flag or turn yellow, and be sore 
to ventilate freely during the day. If they are 
treated in this way the spikes must come np. 
Never give any liquid manure until the spikes 
are visible; always keep all surplus grass 
pinched in close to the tubers, as nothing is 
more likely to prevent the tuber from flowering. 
When the flower spikes are visible the plants 
should have a little weak liquid manure, and 
never allow a Tuberose at this stage of growth 
to get dry. I always have found it very beneficial 
to these plants to place a saucer under them 
from the time they commence flowering until 
the spikes are fnlly developed. All the time the 
plants are sending up their spikes they will 
absorb a quantity of moisture, and should be 
kept supplied with it to induce them to expand 
their blooms to full size. As the spikes gradually 
advance in growth use manure water stronger. 
—A. Felgate, Burhill. 

- The method of culture pursued, as 

stated by “H.K.,” was by no means the right 
one, and we think the failure was due to a 
sudden change of temperature, and perhaps too 
little air when growing. The present plants 
will be of little value, and we advise a fresh 
start. Pot them in loam two parts, leaf-mould 
one part, with a good dash of silver sand in it 
Give a gentle watering and set them on the floor 
in the greenhouse where no drip falls on them. 
The great point is to keep the soil moist without 
watering heavily until they come well into 
growth. As soon as the shoots appear, place 
them in the lighest place in the house, and admit 
air freely on fine days, syringing them well in 
bright weather, and watering more as they 
advance in stature. In this way they will come 
on slowly but robustly, and will acquire the 
strength to produce good blooms. When a few 
inches high, put a neat stake to each stem.— 
C. Byflket. 

10594.— Sowing Lemon pips— If there 
exist the convenience of a warm house in spring 
where a constant temperature of 60° to 66° is 
maintained, they may be sown about the begin¬ 
ning of April, otherwise it is better to wait until 
summer, say the beginning of June. Sow in 
very sandy soil, covering the pips with half an 
inch of soil, and stand the pot in the full sun, 
only watering when the soil shows signs of get¬ 
ting dry, for if overwatered they rot at once, and 
they do not at all mind becoming quite dry from 
time to time. They will come in the course of 
the summer, and should be left thus until the 
following spring.—J. C. B. 

10672.—Sarraoenla purpurea.—By the 
description, your plant should be an imported 
one, and will require careful handling to induce 
it to start into growth. Take a pot just about 
large enough to contain it, and half fill with 
drainage. The compost should consist of 
fibrouB peat in lumps the size of good sized nuts 
and Sphagnum Moss in equal parte ; but if the 
latter is not at hand, use crushed charcoal 
instead. In potting, bring the crown of tbs 
plant about 2 inches above the level of the pot, 
so that the compost slopes down to it from the 
crown. Place in a cool greenhouse, keep the 
soil moist without saturating it too much, and 
give plenty of air in fine weather.—J. C. 

10581.— Camellias not blooming.— The 
fact of the plants growing freely shows that the 
roots are in a healthy condition, and that the soil 
in which they are growing is suitable. We feel 
sure that the cause of their failing to bloom is 
want of sufficient air whilst making and matu¬ 
ring their growth. The Camellia is a hardy shrub, 
and mnst not be much coddled. When the plants 
start into growth, the ventilators should be 
opened on every fine day, closing rather early in 
the afternoon, syringing on fine days. By the 

end of June they will have made their growth 

and will begin to form bloom buds, and from this 
time all through the summer and autumn, full 
air must be left on night and day, unless the 
weather is rough and inclement, when the front 
ventilators may be closed. Syringe once or 
twice a dav according to the weather. — C. 
BYFLEET. 


X 


\ 

1 

I 

'I 

! 


Nor. 17, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


421 



Autumn crocuses 

0ct4 1883 


10578.—Bouv&rdla leaves shrivelling. 
We bare a very large collection of Bouvardias in 
our greenhouse, and all the plants that are more 
than a year old hare lost many of their leaves 
by shrivelling. The yonng plants have been 
grown in a gentle heat all the time, while the 
old ones were grown in a cold frame daring the 
rammer, the lights being frequently removed, 
and it is probable that the varying temperature 
iojnrod the leaves. To do Boavardias well they 
ought to the grown on freely up to the time 
they are in flower.—J. D. E. 

10568. — Hoya bella. —This is a stove 
plant, and does not succeed well in a green- 
noose temperature. It might be wintered in a 
warm greenhouse, but would only do poorly in a 
warm room. It may be potted at any season of 
the year if it is grown in a stove temperature. 
It grows well in a compost of equal parts loam 
and peat with some sand added.—J. D. E. 

10588— Solsnuma not fruiting —It is 
probably want of air and general vigour 
which causes the blooms to fall. About the 
middle of March prune them back rather hard, 
and water sparingly until they start into growth 
again. Then shake away all the old soil and 
replaoe In a clean pot of the same size, water¬ 
ing moderately for a time. Later on when the ' 
pot gets full of roots shift into a larger pot. j 
Loam two parts, and rotten manure and leaf- 


but found that the cost was three-quarters of a 
gallon of oil per night, that the plants were 
seriously injured, and also that it did not keep 
the frost out of the house after all. I then pur¬ 
chased one of the coil boilers in an upright iron 
case, and had pipes fitted under the stage of the 
house, the boiler of course being outside. This 
was a great improvement on the oil stove; but 
the constant attention this stove required was a 
very great drawback. Sometimes it would burn 
for five hours, and at other times the 
fuel, though broken small, would hang up 
and the fire go out, leaving the stove half full 
of coke, the house with the frost in. 
I then tried a boiler on the principle of a saddle 


THE CROCUS. 

Cultural directions for a genus so well known 
and so easily grown as the Crocus seem almost 
superfluous, but there a few points to which it 
may be convenient to refer in dealing with Cro¬ 
cuses as decorative plants. Taking the whole 
genus of about seventy species, they must be 
viewed as in continuous succession from the be¬ 
ginning of August till April ; and of these it is 
only the earlier autumnal or the distinctly 
spring-flowering species that can be relied upon 
in our climate for open air garden decoration 
Although all are hardy, and most of the winter¬ 
flowering species will flower in the open ground, 
those that flower in K ovember, December, and 


mould one part, is a good compost, potting 
firmly. Place on inverted flower-pots in the 
lightest place in the house, and give plenty of 
air in fine weather, leaving air on all night from 
the end of June. Bolanums love the full Bun, 
and a free circulation of air with plenty of 
water when in full growth.—J. C. B. 


Heating villa greenhouses.— I see 

so many enquiries from various readers on 
the above subject — and which is certainly a 
most important one to amateurs generally—that 
I think my experience on the subject may be of 
use to many who ate in the same fix as I myself 
once was, viz., in finding out some method of 
heating a small greenhouse that did not require 
constant attention, and which was also econo¬ 
mical. I tried to heat my greenhouse, which is 
nearly 20 feet long, with aq»werful oil stove, 


Digitized by 


oogie 


boiler on its end, called the " Loughborough.” I 
got one of the smaller size and had it fitted to 
my pipes, and it answered very well all last 
season ; did cot go out, and when once lighted, 
was kept in for days, and from the peculiar con¬ 
struction, and the boiler being partly in the 
house, I was able to make a forcing pit by 
simply boxing in the boiler, covering the top 
with slates, then cocoa-nut fibre, and with a 
large sheet of glass on the top of all. I could 
easily get a heat of 70° to 80°. I find these 
•• Loughborough " boilers fairly economical in 
fuel, and if they are well stoked up with small 
coke and cinders they last through the night. 
I generally stoke mice at 10 p m., and find the 
fire in at 9 a.m., and all that requires to be done 
is to rake out the ashes, fill up the stove, and 
not look at it till 6 p.m. or later.— Young 
Amateur. 


January are so liable to injury by frost and rain 
that they are practically worthless as decorative 
plants for the open garden. For such, as well 
as for the less robust and the less floriferous 
species, the protection of a brick pit is neces¬ 
sary. The bottom of this should be well below 
the level of the ground, and it should be filled 
■p with about 1 foot in depth of fine river sand 
or sandy loam, the surface of which should be a 
little below the level of the surface of the 
ground adjacent to the pit. Proper drainage is 
essential, but, this being attained. Crocuses 
during their growth delight in a uniformly moist 
subsoil. It is convenient to separate each species 
by strips of slate or tiles, which may be buried 
below tbe surface, and the corms planted about 
3 inches deep. A mulching of rotted Cocoa- 
nut fibre or finely sifted peat keeps the surface 
uniformly moist and prevents tbe substratum of 
I If J VciAjll f u r LL! 'J l J 1 'ii i 1 -,! 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 















422 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Nov. 17, 1883. 


loam from clogging or caking on the surface. At 
the time of the maturity of the foliage, which 
generally takes place about the end of May, water 
should be withheld and the Crocus beds covered 
up and allowed to get quite dry till the end of 
July, when a copious watering may be given or 
the pit exposed to natural rainfall. Crocuses are 
easily multiplied by seed, which should be sown 
as soon as ripe in J uly, though germination will 
not take place till the natural growing period of 
the species. Seedlings take from two to three 
years to arrive at maturity, and should be left 
for the first two years undisturbed in the seed 
bed, and then taken up and replanted. Of the 
earlier autumnal species suitable for the open 
border the following may be enumerated for 
succeesional flowering:— 


C. Scharojani, orange, early In AuguBt. 
valllcola, straw-coloured, late in August and early in 
September. 

nudiflorns, blue, September, 
pulchellus, lilac, September and October, 
apeeioaus, blue. September and October, 
indiflorus. blue, September and October. 


Salzmanni - 
aaturicuB 
Clusi - 
cancellatus - 
Cambessldeai 
hadriaticus - 


-) 

-J 

■\ 

■f 


lilac or blue, 
October and November. 


in the late autumn. 


These are succeeded by a long series of late 
autumnal, winter, and early vernal species, which 
are best grown to advantage under the protection 
of a brick pit. Of the vernal species suitable for 
the border, the earliest is C. Imperati, flowering 
in February, followed by 
C. 8U8ianus, or Cloth of Gold, in February, 
bifiorus - 
coraicus - 
etruscus - 
Biiaveoleus 
versicolor 
vemus - 
Tommulnianas 
d&lm&ticus 
bunaticus 

Sieberi var. versicolor 
chryaanthus 
aureus - 
sulphurous 

aulphuroua pallidus and 
striatus 
stellaris - 
Olivieri - 
minimus - 
Balansio 


Flowering from the end of 
February to the first 
week in April. 


VEGETABLES. 


Trenching and double digging-— 

Now is the time to get as much of the garden 
dag over as possible. It is a good plan to trench 
part of the garden every year, exposing as much 
surface to the frost as possible. The piece of 
ground intended for Carrots, Parsnips, Beet, 
Salsafy, Scorzonera, Chicory, and all such things 
with long roots, should be trenched ; by doing so 
the roots are not so apt to fork. Teas and 
Potatoes also do well on newly trenched ground. 
When commencing to trench a piece of ground 
I take an opening out 3 feet wide and three 
spades deep, and wheel the soil to the one end 
for filling in the last trench. I make each 
trench the same width. After two spits deep is 
turned over into the trench, I then put the 
manure on the top of that, the last spit going 
on the top of the manure in the form of a ridge. 
It is best to lay the soil np in ridges, and as 
rough as possible, exposing as much surface to 
the influence of the frost as can he done. If 
the garden has a gravelly or sandy bottom it 
will be sure to be dry in summer. When 
trenching such ground put into the bottom 
of the trench all old Cabbage that is past 
any use, Cauliflower leaves, and all such 
vegetable refuse; by doing so it helps to 
retain the moisture in dry seasons, and it will 
bo found to help substantially the growing crops 
in cummer. Where manure is plentiful it should 
not be spared when trenching, putting a layer 
between every spit. In gardens, where there is 
time, instead of digging one spade deep and 
laying up rough for winter, it is a good system 
to double dig, laying up in ridges. Takeout an 
opening two spades broad, and two deep, spread 
the manure on the surface, digging it into the 
bottom with the first spit, the last spit going on 
the top in the form of a ridge. By ridging, there 
is a vast amount more surface exposed to the 
action of the frost than there would be by level 
digging, and in spring, when it is levelled down 
to get in the crops, it will be found that the frost 
has torn it asunder, and pulverised it so nicely 
that it goes dowmWge meal, and is in splendid 

Google 


condition for receiving seeds. By adopting a 
course of trenching and doable digging, in a few 
years the effect will be apparent. A nice depth 
of rich easy worked soil will be secured, which 
most vegetables will take to and root in readily, 
and when vegetables do so, whatever the sort 
may be, we have prospects of a good crop. Where 
the soil is of a clayey nature, it is a good plan to 
work in while trenching and double digging, 
plenty of leaf-mould, old lime rubbish, sand, 
ashes, or anything of a like nature, that will help 
to keep the soil open and sweet.—J. Robebtson, 
Cowdtntinoivet. 

10373. — Forcing Asparagus and 

Tomatoes.—The first lot of Asparagus may 
be taken np for forcing early in November. 
The best way is to prepare a hotbed, and when 
the excessive heat has subsided, plant the roots 
thickly over it. A thin layer of soil must be 
put over the manure or leaves first, then the 
roots, and sufficient soil to cover them. A frame 
and glass lights should be put over the bed of 
course. Any garden soil will do to cover the 
roots with. Tomatoes may be grown under 
glass all the year round, either from seeds or 
cuttings.—J. D. E. 

10532.— Leeka for exhibition. —To grow 
Leeks to the highest perfection for exhibition 
the soil into which they are to be finally trans¬ 
planted should be prepared at once by trenching 
and very liberal manuring. The best manure is 
that from the stable and cow-house mixed, the 
older it is the better. This should be laid into 
the bottom of the trench at least 6 inches thick. 
Sow the seed early in February in light but rich 
soil under a handglass in the open air. Trans¬ 
plant about the middle of May when the seed¬ 
lings will be about the thickness of a lead- 
pencil. Draw the lines about 18 inches apart, 
and leave 12 inches between each plant. The 
plants may be pat into a trench prepared the 
same way as for Celery, or a drill may be 
simply drawn out with a hoe. Put the plants 
into the holes up to the neck, and without let¬ 
ting any earth fall in along with them, fill up 
the holes with water, and the process is com¬ 
plete. If the soil is rich and well manured, 
not much water will be required ; but 
towards the end of August a liberal dose of 
liquid manure once a week will improve them 
greatly. Henry’s Prize and the Lyon varieties 
are the favourites just now. The latter is a new 
selection of great size and splendid quality.— 
J. Thomson. 

- Procure seed of a good strain—Bobbie’s 

Conqueror, Champion, the Lion and the true 
Musselburgh are the favourites in Scotland. 
Sow it in a moderately warm house or hotbed 
frame early in February. As soon as the plants 
get two flat leaves, pot off as many as are re¬ 
quired singly into 3-inch pots, using a nice com¬ 
post—say of one part sand, one part old, well- 
rotted manure, and two parts good loam. Crow 
on the plants in these pots in a gentle heat 
until the middle of April, when they may be 
gradually exposed to the weather, and so made 
hardy enough to plant out in the first week in 
May. “ Plant out ” is rather vague directions to 
give one who may not have had very much ex¬ 
perience. Where, how, and in what way are they 
to be planted ? The answer to the first question 
is—plant in a well-sheltered position, but not in 
the shade; secondly, pat the roots about 6 inches 
deep—that is, put the bottom of the ball of 
roots as it comes out of the pot about 6 inches 
below the level of the surrounding ground, so 
that after the Leeks are earthed up for blanching 
11 inches or 12 inches, a nice mound of half a 
foot in height will appear above the ground 
level. The third question is the poser. In what 
are they to be planted ? Opinions differ so much 
that it is really difficult to say, and the best 
growers very often arrive at the same results by 
adopting different means. Some grow in a trench 
half-filled with hot manure to give the plants a 
good start; others grow in an ordinary bed, 
which has been thoroughly well trenched and 
manured very heavily in the autumn or in the 
spring with well-decomposed manure. The Leek 
is a gross feeder, but it will sicken and die on 
fresh manure. I would strongly recommend the 
last mentioned method. Whosoever will grow 
Leeks successfully, let him not be afraid to put 
half a dozen good barrowfuls of manure on abed 
8 feet by 4 feet. Work it well into the soil, and 
if,when planting out time comes, the bed has the 
appearance of being rather rough, to give the 


yonng plants a good start pnt a small spadeful 
of fine mould and sand round the roots of each 
plant, and away they will go on the sure road to 
big Leeks. Get the blanching done while the 
plants are young. It is best accomplished by 
drawing fine soil or sand up close round the 
plant, being careful not to allow it to get among 
the leaves. Some growers put paper or a leaf of 
some sort round the plant to prevent this.—WM. 
Cuthbebtson, Rothuay. 

10593.— Mushroom beds. —Imade a Mush¬ 
room bed September 15, with equal quantities of 
peat moss and horse droppings well mixed 
together, and gathered Mushrooms in five weeks. 
The size of bed is 10 feet by 3 ieet, and 1 foot 
deep. There are hundreds of Mushrooms in 
different stages of growth at the present time. 
The peat-moss had been in horse-boxes for two 
months previous to making the Mushroom bed. 
—J. B. Cotesbach. 


FRUIT. 

THE GRAPE VINE* 

We welcome this practical little shilling book 
on the Grape Vine, because we think it was 
really wanted. There are several good books 
on the same subject, but these are too expensive 
to become popular. We anticipate, therefore, 
for the work before us a large circulation. It 
is written by a practical man in plain language, 
and is, in fact, an exhaustive treatise on the 
Vine in a small and cheap compass. The follow¬ 
ing extracts (seasonable just now) will give our 
readers some idea of the kind of matter the 
book contains :— 


Pruning and Training. 


The srint system op tbainino. —Formerly 
the Vine was trained in many different ways, but 
the spur syst em is now almost universally adopted 
in both indoor and outdoor culture, and as it is 
superior to any other, more easily understood, 
and admits of various modifications according to 
circumstances, it is not necessary to mention any 
other here. By the spur system the Vine forms 
single rods or canes, upon which the lateral or 
bearing branches are produced from the alter¬ 
nately placed buds on each Bide, and which are 
usually thinned out to from 12 to 18 inches 
asunder under good culture. The rods may be 
trained in any direction—npright, obliquely, or 
horizontally. The upright and the horizontal 
are the most convenient methods, the first having 
the preference as a rule, but the horizontal is the 
one that ensures the most regular breaking of 
the buds, an important point when any length of 
young wood is left. In the upright method the 
rods are simply trained straight up the rafters or 
walls of the vinery, and in the horizontal they 
are trained in the contrary direction. The easiest 
way to carry out the latter method is to train 
the Vine in the same manner as a horizontally- 
trained Pear tree ; that is, with an npright trank 
from which the branches are led away at right 
angles. 

Distance between the bods. — On this 
point authorities differ considerably, some main¬ 
taining that from 3 feet to 4 feet asunder is no 
more than sufficient for lateral develop¬ 
ment, while others would not allow much more 
than half that space. The distance apart which 
the Vines are planted does not affect the ques¬ 
tion, as few or many rods may be trained from 
one root. There can be no doubt that the way 
to get up the most robust Vine is to afford ample 
room to the branches, but it is doubtful if the 
above space be required to produce either the 
strongest Vines or the finest bunches. The 
annals of sensational bunch growing do not 
show the advocates of wide training to have the 
best of it, either in general weight of crop or 
permanent fertility, and it is certain that they 
have been almost invariably beaten in the matter 
of quality. One and a half pounds of good 
Grapes to the foot-rnn of the Vine rod is con¬ 
sidered a fair crop by good judges, and that 
weight has been often attained on Vines grown 
2 feet asunder, or at the rate of 3 pound to the 
foot for two rods occupying a 4-foot light, and 
it is doubtful if that weight has been exceeded 
on an average, or always attained in any vinery 
where the rods had double the space allowed 
them, all other things being equal. Mr. Mere- 


* ‘'The Grape Vine," liy Johu Simpson. London • 
George Kontleuge & Sons, Broadway, Iudgate Hill. 


>N 


j 11 


WA-C 




Nov. 17, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


423 


dith, of Garston, grew his Vines about 2 feet 
apart—indeed they looked crowded; and the 
author of “A Practical Treatise on the Grape” 
and others do the same in market establishments. 
The practice of close training is indeed universal 
among market growers, and none know better 
than they that neither light crops nor inferior 
quality of fruit will pay. In discussing the 
matter sufficient allowance has never been made 
for the constitutional vigour of varieties. In¬ 
experienced cultivators, who follow the indis¬ 
criminate advice sometimes given, would plant 
all their varieties 3 feet or 4 feet asunder, when 
it is well known that to give so much room to 
such kinds as the Grizzly Frontignan n Muscadine, 
Duchess of Buccleuch, some of the Chasselas 
and Sweetwaters, &c., would be an extravagant 
waste of space. If the Syrian or Barbarossa 
kinds can do with 3 feet or 4 feet of space, 
there are certainly others that can do with much 
less. The French cultivators about Fontaine¬ 
bleau and Thomery have doubtless studied this 
question as accurately as any, having to* make 
the most of the little space at their disposal, and 
they train their Vines only 16 inches asunder, 
and take one bunch from every spur-branch, 
and very often two—not large ones to be sure; 
but in the aggregate their crops are excessive. 
These cultivators show in the most convincing 
manner that it is not so much the quantity of 
leaves upon the Vine, on which a good crop of 
fruit depends, as upon the care taken of the few 
leaves that are permitted to grow. It is surpris¬ 
ing how very few leaves are sufficient to mature 
a crop of fruit annually, and to sustain the plant 
in permanent health. From my own practice, 
and from what I have seen elsewhere, I am per¬ 
fectly convinced that a Vine shoot pinched one 
joint beyond the bunch, and kept stopped at 
that point, is quite capable of maturing the 
bunch perfectly, provided the foliage is taken 
care of; it is the old or first leaves on the shoot 
that do the most of the work, and if they be lost 
mere extension beyond the bunch will be of little 
advantage. I dare say many gardeners have 
discovered this in the course of practice. Look¬ 
ing at the qnestion in its broadest sense, it may 
safely be decided that 24 feet of lateral space is 
quite enough for most varieties of the Vine, and 
for the strongest growers 3 feet will be suffi¬ 
cient. 

Management op leading shoots. — 
Whether the vertical or horizontal system be 
adopted, the general management in other res¬ 
pects is the same : and, assuming that the rods 
have been started about 24 feet asunder, it re¬ 
mains to explain how the vinery can be soonest 
furnished with bearing wood. It does not matter 
whether each rod be upon its own root or all the 
rods be originated from one Vine; the treatment 
of the laterals and leaders is the same. In 
giving directions on this subject, I may state 
that I am not going to recommend a more res¬ 
trictive method of pruning than can be helped, 
and perhaps my instructions will be found to 
conflict with others to some extent on the sub¬ 
ject of pruning. Most cultivators who have 
written on the Vine recommend the leading 
shoots of young Vines to be cut back rather 
severely—the first year to the bottom wire, or 
below it, and every season afterwards to within 
2 feet,or at the most 3 feet, from the base of 
the young growth. The reason given for this is 
that it causes the bottom buds of the cane to 
break more regularly, and also induces a more 
vigorous growth in the leader. Neither of these 
reasons are, however, valid. No doubt the Vine 
is less disposed to burst its buds regularly than 
most other kinds of fruit trees, owing to the 
nature of its growth, and it is equally true 
i that the shorter the young cane is pruned the 
[more readily will the buds left grow. Still it 
not necessary to cut almost the whole of a 
Itrong young Vine's growth away the first year, 
I r at any time, to secure a good “ break.” Neither 
Ve 3 the mere cutting back of a Vine induce 
I permanently stronger growth, or add in any 
to the vigour of the Vine. How can it ? 
:e rebound that a cut-back Vine rod makes 
_en it begins to grow again is more apparent 
in real, but it is certain that the Vine which 
ItUo wed to make the most growth and pruned 
t, ] ea8 t lays on timber fastest and thickest, 
^example, a Vine that makes 20 feet of cane 
[ t fafirst year, if left that length at pruning time, 
wf, provided it breaks all its buds regularly, 

_ riafe just as strong a Vine in the end as one 


rjbufc is cut back annually, provided it has 


;as biien 


cropped proportionately. In 1867 I planted a 
house of Muscat Vines from eyes the same year. 
They all grew strongly, making canes as thick 
as one’s thumb, and all were cut back to about 
2 feet above the bottom wire in winter save one, 
which was left 10 feet long, and allowed to carry 
fonrteen good bunches in 1868, all of which 
finished well. In 1869 the Vine showed no fruit 
at all, no doubt owing to the ordeal it had been 
subjected to so early in its career, nor did it 
cease to exhibit its effects for several years after¬ 
wards ; but with the exception of the year it 
missed, it has been cropped fairly every year 
since. It ought to be the weakest Vine in the 
house, but good Grape growers have failed to 
distinguish it from the others after a critical 
examination, though the latter were cut back 
every season in the usual way, and cropped 
moderately at the same time. No difficulty 
was experienced in getting all the buds on this 
Vine to breakdown to the lowermost, and it is 
one of the most regularly furnished in the house. 
Again, in 1870,1 planted a late vinery of Lady 
Downes, Alicantes, Barbarossa, and Madresfield 
Court Grapes from eyes that year; shortened 
them back to from 8 feet to 10 feet, inoluding 
the stem from the border to the wires, at the 
winter pruning, and took from six to eight 
bunches from each Vine the second year, the 
Vines extending their growth in the meantime. 
Ry the third year the roof of the vinery was en¬ 
tirely covered with wood, and the Vines were 
cropped the fall length of the rafters all over 
the house. These Vinos have been cropped every 
year since that time, and are at the present time 
in excellent condition, and quite equal to about 
the same number of Vines of the same kinds 
in the same house that were pruned short back 
every season in the ordinary way, till they 
reached the top of the rafter. To sum up the 
advantages of the extension system here ex- 
ampled, one-half of the vinery was furnished 
with bearing wood in two years, and the other 
half, pruned on the restrictive system, in six 
years, though 8 feet of wood was Jeft each sea¬ 
son. In the case of the Muscat Vine before men¬ 
tioned, the rafter was of course furnished in one 
year. Indeed, so far as my own experience is con 
cerned, I am unable to see any objections what¬ 
ever to leaving young Vine rods as long as may 
be desired, provided they are tolerably strong 
and ripe and the buds can be broken regularly. 
The first is only a question of culture, but the 
second, I admit, presents some, but not serious 
difficulties. The 1!) feet long Muscat rod re¬ 
ferred to was only unslung and placed in a 
horizontal position to induce it to break all its 
buds, but the late Vines were not meddled with 
at all. Last winter I left young canes of Aln¬ 
wick Seedling 12 feet in length, and, without 
disturbing them from their upright position, or 
meddling with them in any wav, succeeded in 
breaking every bud with the exception of three 
or four. Some of the bottom laterals are 
stronger than the top ones. I find, by pinch¬ 
ing the top shoots first and shortest, and per¬ 
mitting the lower ones to grow, that it is possible 
to equalise their vigour just the same as in the 
Peach and other frnit trees. In the same house 
two Barbarossa A T ine rods of one year's growth, 
and each several feet longer than those of the 
Alnwick seedling, broke quite as well, and in 
two seasons made GO feet of wood, all of which 
was ripened and fruited the year following. As 
is well known to gardeners, however. Vines break 
most freely when started about their natural 
season; but to test the matter still further, I 
last winter left the leading canes of a number 
of half-grown young Vines from 5 feet to G feet in 
length, and succeeded in breaking them all early 
this season in the most regular and satisfactory 
manner, hardly a bud missing in the lot. The 
varieties consist of Golden Champion, Venn’s 
Muscat, Pearson's Golden Queen, West's St. 
Peter, Muscadine, The Duke, and Black Ham¬ 
burgh, and all have done equally well. To assist 
the breaking of the lowermost buds 2 feet of 
the points of the canes were depressed at the 
start, but the lower ties were not unfastened. 
Had I to prune any number of Vines now after 
such experience I should not hesitate to leave 
from 6 feet to 10 feet of young wood every 
year, provided it was moderately strong, nor 
would I recommend anyone to prune more 
severely. In starting such long rods, however, 
it is best to afford the Vines plenty of light and 
to force gently. High temperatures encourage 


in] tfie disposition to run away at the top, and after 


the top buds have once fairly broken, the 
chances of the lower ones breaking are reduced. 

It should be stated here that, although I was 
perhaps the first to suggest this quick system of 
getting up young Vines, I am not the only one 
who has practised it.* In drawing attention to 
the subject in the Garden last year, another cor¬ 
respondent stated, in answer to my inquiries, 
that “ several houses had been planted on the 
same plan about Bishop Stanford, and with 
such good results that more houses had been 
planted and filled and managed on the same 
plan.” 

Mr. Wildsmith, of Heckfield, the well-known 
Grape-grower, saw the Vines at Wortley alladed 
to above, and thus speaks of them in the Garden 
of October 9, 1880: 

“ The ordinary treatment that young first- 
season planted Vines receive at pruning time is 
to cut them right down, or at least to within 
2 feet or so of the bottom, the ostensible reason 
being that they will break more kindly and 
evenly than if left longer. That there is a pretty 
general concurrence in this notion none will 
question ; but Mr. Simpson so disregards all such 
preconceived ideas that he has dared to leave 
30 feet of young wood on a Vine— i.e., a double- 
caned Vine, 15 feet each. The first thought of 
every practical man who either hears of or sees 
this would naturally be that a number of the 
buds would fail to break ; yet such is not the 
case, for after a close scrutiny I could not dis¬ 
cover more than three dormant eyes throughout 
the entire length ; and as to the fruit, the Vine, 
which was a Barbarossa, was allowed to bear 
fourteen large bunches, samples of which I have 
just seen in a ripe state, with large and grandly- 
coloured berries—indeed, about as fine a sample 
of Barbarorsa as I have ever beheld, and this, 
be it observed, from a one-year-old cane. In 
the same house there were two young canes of 
Alnwick Seedlmg that had been left 12 feet long 
each, and yet scarcely a bud had missed break¬ 
ing, and in another house were Hamburghs that 
had been left at 6 feet, and not a bud had failed 
to break or to show fruit; moreover, the Vines 
at starting were not, as is usual, slung in a 
hoiizontal position—never, in fact, untied from 
the trellis except a few inches at the extreme 
point.” 

Management of i.atebal branches. —In a 
young Vine shoot-buds are produced at the axils 
of the leaves. These are termed the “ permanent 
buds,” to distinguish them from the laterals, 
that also originate from the same source, and 
which are permitted to grow a little, but are out 
away at the winter pruning entirely, leaving only 
the permanent buds. The succeeding season the 
latter produce side or lateral branches, which 
bear the fruit, and it is with these we have now 
to deal. Naturally, lateral shoots are produced 
more thickly than is desirable under artificial 
culture, and they have consequently to be thinned 
out at an early stage by disbudding. How much 
apart to leave the shoots depends upon the 
variety, as in the case of training the rods; 
18 inches is about the usual distance recom¬ 
mended, but that is sufficient for the strongest 
kinds and too much for weak ones, which do not 
require more than 1 foot of space for each shoot, 
but out-of-doors 9 inches will be enough, as the 
general growth is less lnxuriant under such cir¬ 
cumstances. The best and most fruitful shoots 
should be left, as far as practicable, and they 
should be tied in to the wires in an oblique 
upward direction. When they have made from 
Bix to eight leaves, or let ns say joints, they 
should have their tops pinched, and from this 
time forward to the end of the season all sub- 
laterals must be stopped at one or two joints 
until the space at the disposal of each shoot is 
filled up. If thinning be necessary after that 
period, it must be effectod by judiciously short¬ 
ening the sub-laterals to “ back joints.” Other 
culture consists in preserving the shoots and 
leaves in good health by keeping down insects 
and administering a proper temperature, Ac. 
When the leaves have fallen off the Vines in 
winter the first side pruning will become neces¬ 
sary, and it does not differ in principle from 
that of succeeding years when the Vines are 
older. There are two systems of spur pruning 
—the close and the long spur. In the first the 
shoot is usually cut close back to the last bud, 


* Mr. Thomson, of Drumlanrlgg, has Informed the 
author that he “filled a forty feet division withfonr 
grafts ol the bnko of Bneoleuch drape In 1879.' 



424 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Nov. 17, 1883. 


and in the second two or three or more buds'are 
left. The greater nnmber of,varieties submit to 
close pruning, which is also productive of the 
most compact, well-finished bunches, but there 
are some varieties that are apt to miss fruiting 
partially if they are pruned too hard back, and 
among these may be named Golden Champion, 
Black Alicante, Syrian, Barbarossa, and some 
others of the strong-growing late varieties. Vines 
vary in this respect, however, in different situa¬ 
tions, and it will be found the best plan with 
shy fruiters generally to leave several eyes at 
pruning time. In pruning, a sharp knife or 
secateur should be used, and the shoot should be 
cut back to within an eighth of an inch of the 
bud left. When the Vines are started the 
second year all the buds should be thinned out 
to one of the best on each spur, to be trained 
and pinched as in the previous season. There 
has at times been much discussion among Grape 
growers concerning the necessity of leaving one 
or more joints beyond the _bunch in pinching 
the fruiting shoots, growth beyond that point 
being considered necessary [for some as yet un 
defined physiological reason. As others besides 
the writer have proved, however, and stated in 
the horticultural papers, it is of little or no 
consequence whether the growth extend beyond 
the bunch or not, provided there 'is a good 
foliage upon the shoot and near to the fruit. 
It is generally more convenient, however, to 
pinch several joints beyond the bunch, as, for 
example, when the latter is produced near the 
base of the shoot, and too little wood would be 
left by close pinching; but when the bunch is 
produced perhaps I foot or 15 inches from the 
main stem, it may be Btopped just beyond the 
bunch in order to keep the subsequent growths 
within bounds. In the outdoor culture of the 
Vine lateral restriction is absolutely necessary, 
in order to promote the ripening of the wood, 
upon which so much depends. The earliest 
pinched shoot is the one that gets brown and 
ripe first, and hence early pinching means early 
maturity and greater fertility. 

Supernumerary Vinks. —As these are only 
intended to remain to fruit till the permanent 
Vines come fairly into a bearing state, they 
must be treated with an eye to fruiting the year 
after planting, and for a few years following. 
The front row of plants, which, it will be recol¬ 
lected, are planted between the permanent 
Vines, should be allowed to grow about 7 or 
8 feet up the wires, and then stopped; the 
laterals also must be pinched regularly at every 
joint; the middle row will catch the wires at 
this point, and they must also be stopped when 
they have got nearly to the top of the rafters, 
and otherwise treated in the same manner. The 
little winter pruning required by these consists 
in simply cutting the laterals close back to the 
permanent buds—which should, at the end of 
the season, be hard and plump - and in shorten¬ 
ing back each cane to within 6 feet or so of the 
point where they first catch the wires. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

10458.—Dwarf Fuchsias —Mr. Martin is 
quite right in stating that Fuchsia Miss Lye 
will bear training as a dwarf better than most 
other varieties, from the fact of its drooping 
habit. A first-class companion to Lucy Finnis 
as a light variety is Mrs. King, white tube and 
sepals, with a rich carmine corolla, sent out this 
season. I can also recommend Letty Lye, white 
tube and Bepals, dark red corolla. Gustave Dor6, 
red tube and sepals, double white corolla, is 
perhaps the best double of the day, having a 
dwarf habit, and producing a mass of bloom. 
Although in this district we grow our exhibition 
Fuchsias from 8 feet to 10 feet high, I am greatly 
in favour of some dwarf plants. Letty Lye, in 
addition to being capable of dwarf training, 
does excellently bedded out. As a border, plant 
in lines—first, blue Lobelia, next a good bronze 
or Mrs. Pollock Geranium, then Letty Lye 
Fuchsia, backed up with Perilla nankinensis or 
Iresine Lindeni, has a beautiful effect. The 
Fuchsia cuttings should for this purpose be 
struck in March, and when rooted, kept pinched 
back, stocky plants will then be obtained.— 
James Lye. 

10583.— Frame'for Calceolarias — Place 
the frame iya northerly] aspect; let the soil in 


VjCK 


"“'t 


the frame be below the surface of the ground 
about 3 inches ; dig out ordinary soil; place 2 
inches of good drainage—crocks, gravel or cin¬ 
ders ; 3 inches of leaf-mould and sand well 
sifted; top layer 1 inch of sand or coal dust; 
the latter I find very useful. The cuttings grow 
healthier and stronger in coal dust than sand. 
Put the cuttings in rows 3 inches apart, and 
about 2 inches apart in the rows. An ordinary 
penholder makes a good dibble. Well water the 
sand with a fine rose before making the 
holes. Be careful during frost to cover, and do 
not uncover too soon after a frost, as the Calceo¬ 
laria cannot endure a sudden change of tempe¬ 
rature ; gradually inure them to the thaw. Let 
no sun shine upon them while they are in the 
frame. I find a dop dressing of soot, soot water, 
and coal dust very useful to this delightful plant 
when bedded out.—8. W. 

10565. — Vines in verandah. — Vines 
would do very well indeed in such a place as 
that described, but you ought to make a proper 
Vine border; Vines cannot be expected to grow 
and produce fruit if they are planted in clay. 
You should dig out the border to a depth of 3 
feet, and fill it up with good loamy soil, to 
which has been added some rotten stable manure, 
crushed bones, and charcoal. Some lime or 
mortar rubbish would also do well if the loam 
is of a clayey nature. It is also a good plan to 
put in 6 inches or 9 inches of brick rubbish in 
the bottom. Further, if the soil is naturally wet, 
it ought to be drained. The beBt time to plant 
the Vines is in March, when the buds have started. 
Spread out the roots carefully, and cover them 
with 6 inches or 6 inches of soil. The varieties 
should be two Black Hamburgh and one Foster’s 
White Seedling.—J. D. E. 

10491.—Edible Fungi.—When salt is put 
on the gills of Mushrooms or Fungi and they 
turn black they are not poisonous, but should 
they turn yellow they must be avoided. Those 
from which a milky juice exudes are poisonous. 
Pure yellow, gold colour, dark or lustre brown, 
wine-red or violet, are said to belong to many 
that can be eaten. Pale yellow, bright or blood- 
red and greenish colours are not be eaten. 
Drinking very cold water, and from time to time 
a little finely-powdered charcoal made into, a 
sort of paste with sweet oil, is the remedy to 
take in case of accident. The symptoms do 
not Bhow for some hours frequently after eating 
a poisonous Mushroom.— I. OP B, 

10527 .— Azaleas losing their leaves. 

_X fear the Azaleas have been allowed to get 

dry at the roots ; they want every attention as 
regards watering. They have such fine hairy 
roots generally in a mass next the pot, that once 
you neglect the watering the plants are sure to 
suffer. I have no doubt the centre of the ball of 
the plants will be dry, it being difficult to get 
the water to penetrate to the centre when once 
they get dry. Place the pots overhead in tepid 
water for an hour, and let the ball get wet 
through. It is not necessary to plunge the pots 
in anything. Keep the plants in a temperature 
of 40° to 45° in winter.—C owdbnknowes. 

10542 . — Thuja Lobbi for hedges.— 

You cannot do wrong in employing this Conifer 
for hedges or screens. In my opinion it is the 
finest of all evergreens for that purpose, bear¬ 
ing clipping quite as well as Arbor-vitas, making 
as dense a mass of foliage, whilst retiming its 
fine colour even in the most severe weather. In 
a garden in this neighbourhood it has been ex¬ 
tensively planted, and the hedges formed of it 
have a very ornamental appearance all through 
the year. If young plants are [used about 18 
inches high, and set 3 feet apart, they will in a 
short time form a dense screen, which will be 
quite chicken proof.—J. C. B. 

10586 .—Old Yew trees.— I have no doubt 
it would be quite safe to out in the Yew trees to 
within 4 feet of the Btems. I remember some 
years ago, a Yew tree being partly blown down 
and the branches smashed. The branches were all 
cut off and the stem set erect again; a little more 
than a year after the young shoets burst forth all 
over. Prune now and let the wounds be healed 
up before the sap begins to flow in Bpring. It is 
a pity to cut down old yew trees, except when 
really necessary. It will be a long time before 
they will be like themselves again.—J. 
Robertbon, Coreicnhnoreet. 

10534._ Thrips. — There are two ways in 


they seem to have taken possession of your plants 
altogether; and dipping them in any notions 
mixture would be out of the question. I would 
fumigate with Tobacco smoke three times, allow¬ 
ing a space of three nights between each fumiga¬ 
tion. If there were only a few thrips in the house 
one fumigation would perhups be enough. If a 
few plants only are affected, they may be dipped 
in a solution of two ounces of soft soap to a 
gallon of water, to which also half a pint of 
Tobacco liquor has been added.—J. D. E. 

-Let “ M. A. 8.” put his plants in a frame, 

and fill in between the pots with a good quantity 
of well bruised, green laurel leaves. Shut the 
frame down as soon as the leaves are in, and 
cover up to keep the air out. Leave the plants 
in the frames from eight hours to twelve hours 
for thrip (one hour only for green fly). On re¬ 
moving them, place them in the sun, the insects 
will dry up, and fall off in a few days.—I. or B. 

10538.— Mating a hotbed. —I should 
strongly recommend “ F. W. T. ” to make an 
under frame of turf walls, as manure rots wood, 
Make the walls about 12 inohes or 15 inches thick, 
plant them with Mushroom spawn, which the 
heat of the manure will bring out, and put the 
frame on the top. The turf is warmer than bricks 
or wood, and when it rots it is valuable for 
potting.— Stbetton. 

10560.— Sowing G-raaa seeds.— This li 
not a good time to form a lawn by sowing grass 
seeds. Wait until the middle or latter end of 
March, in the meantime getting the soil clean 
and well stirring it before sowing. Write to a 
firm making a speciality of lawn Grass seeds, 
stating the area and nature of the soil. You 
will then get the right mixture.—J. 0. B. 

10529 — Troublesome weed.— Get a car¬ 
boy of sulphuric acid, and mix with water, eight 
parts of water to one of acid, or if that fails one 
to six. The watering pot should be painted, or 
the acid attacks the iron, and it should be well 
washed out afterwards. If gasworks are near, 
gas-water is often effective.—S tbetton. 

10581 .—Camellias not blooming.—Probably tilt 
plants are too far from the light, and they do uot get 
sufficient air. No one can tell why they do not bloom 
unless they know how they have been treated. There ti 
usually no difficulty in blooming them In an ordinaiy 
greenhouse.—J. D. E. 

10558 .--Aralla Sleboldl—The leaves fall oil beaus 
1 is their nature to do so at this time of the year. It if 
a hardy shrub, which loaea lta large leaves but retain! f 
few round the leading bud. It reqnirea no special treat 
ment.—J. D. E. 


10585 .-Carnations not blooming.-Good itrra; 
plants of any variety of Cloves or Carnations are lure te 
bloom if they are planted In good aoil. Probably the toll 
youra are growing In Is poor. If so, lift snd plant It 
well-manured soil.—J. D. E. 

10683 —Calceolaria frame.—It Is not yet too lab 
to put In cuttlnga in a frame. All that it required la to 
put In S or 4 InohoB of ordinary potting aoil in the bottom 
of the frame. Place a thin layer of land OTer it, ami 
Insert the cuttings.—J. I>. E. 

10582.—Geranium or Pelargonium.-U la uiuaj 
to term the scarlet or bedding section Geranium and 
the show or decorative varieties Pelargonium!, but there 
la no other reason for it except custom. They are ah 
Pelargoniums.—J. D. E. 

10553.—Woodlice In Mushroom bed.-Syriige 
every crevice of the house with boiling water. If de¬ 
tached from other houses, fumigate with sulphur.-.' 

ROBERTSON. 

10597 .—Pears cracking.—The reason of thlf la that 
the akin of the fruit has been Injured by cold windf In in 
early stagea of growth, and aa the fruit swelled the ftln 
cracked.—J. D. E. 

10592.—Sowing Leeks.—The first of February If a 
good time to aow Leeks to produce exhibition samples 
The variety called the Musselburgh la the bet to pur. 

J. D. E._ 

Polyanthus —Try Mr. Charles Turner, Royal SunoiJ 
Slough, and Mr. Dean. Bedfont, Hounslow.— F. 

—Put a handful of fresh lime Into a gallon ot vats 
and water the plants with the liquid. A little watt 
soot water now and then will also do good,—— Ge-o. 
—If Artichoke roots were sent and Artichokerow* 
were planted, if ths roots grew, Artichoke would ™- 
tainly come np. They would never turn to Mouse, 
that Is certain. * 

Elsie .—The spawn Is doubtless exhausted.—If. /- 
Holland .—We Bee nothing peculiar In the plant lent, u 

la an ordinary Petunia - F. S. R —It would certainly 

Injure the young Vine to fruit it the tint year.—Mr 
matis .—The blooms received were scented, so iurei: 
they must be so on the bush. Any good nunorytnenwu 
supply you with the kinds you requite 11 you "ill giv.. 
their names. See out advertisement columns. 


Names of fTulte.—Dr. Wallav.-U, Cox i 0r»ni 

Pippin ; 26, King olthe Pippins.- H. L.E.-t, F«> 

Pippin; 3, Feam's Pippin (small); 4, Court Pendu ril 
—-S K —1, TJvedale St. Germain; 2 . Marie Louise* 

....1 not known.-C. O.-Local variety.—KH-G -l, f 

which thripe may be destroyed. In yonr case I known : 2 and 4, Passe Colmar; 3. BenrrdDiel ' I 




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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



txARDEJVlJVG ILLUSTRATED 


[Nov. 17, 1883. 


42« 


BIRDS. 

Canary unhealthy.—I have a hen canary two 
year* old, and It has always been healthy, but since she 
began moulting she seems to be in pain, panting and 
making a peculiar noise. I had one last year the same, 
and it continued in the same way till February, and then 
died. I feed them with a little hemp and canary seed, 
and also linseed. Can anyone tell me the cause and 
remedy 7—Constant Reader. 

Canary not Singing:. — I have had a canary 
three years ; the first year he sang beautifully, since then 
he has been continually moulting, and does not sing at 
all. I feed him chiefly on canary seed, a little hemp and 
rape mixed with it; sometimes 1 have given him a little 
green stuff, lie hangs in a lofty room where there 1 b a 
fire now. Can anyone tell me how to treat him?— 
A. C. 

Canaries not singing.— Florence .—Do you think 
your canaries might be hen birds? In that case nothing 
will make them sing.—A. N. 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 


Hams not taking salt.— As the pig 
killing season is fast approaching, I am sure a 
few hints from some of your able and experienced 
readers as to the best method of salting bacon 
would be of great service to, and thankfully 
received by, many besides myself, who have 
suffered pecuniarily from hams refusing to take 
salt. Last year I fed two pigs, one (15 score) I 
sold to a neighbouring butcher, which he dressed 
and salted for his own use, the other one 
(14 score) he dressed for me and I salted it, 
assisted by a man who has seen a good deal of 
salting during the last twenty years. I left it in 
salt five weeks, and on taking it out perceived 
that one of the hams was very soft and puffy 
about the bone, and on being hung up a red 
offensive matter trickled out of the vein. I out 
it up a few days after in the hope of saving 
some of it, but I fonnd it all spoiled. The bone 
in the middle of the ham about the joint 
was as black as soot, quite free from the 
flesh, and had a very offensive smell. I 
buried it. The other ham was as good 
as need be. I afterwards ascertained that 
one ham of the pig I sold to the butcher was 
bad, and two other neighbours had each a bad 
ham. I have also another neighbour who had 
two hams bad two years ago, so that there must 
be something wrong either in killing or salting ; 
but I feel certain that what I salted, each flitch 
and each ham, received the same treatment 
respectively in every particular, so that the 
question arises, if one part should take salt, why 
not the other'/ Before coming into this part 
(abont six years ago) I never kept a pig at all, 
so that I confess my experience is very limited, 
but f am surrounded by cottagers (from whom I 
have gathered the little knowledge I possess) 
who have each fed and salted a pig annually 
for twenty, some thirty, years, and I find it to be 
a general thing for some one or two hams to be 
bad every year. If some experienced person 
would kindly point out where the mischief lies 
it would be a great boon to many besides this 
Pooh Cottages. 

Yorkshire savoury pudding for 

either pork, duck, or goose.—One large onion, 
suet about the size of a walnut chopped fine, 
two ounces of breadcrumbs soaked in boiling 
milk, a little sage, thyme, knotted and sweet 
marjoram, seasoned with pepper, salt and 
cayenne, and two eggs. When the bread is 
soaked, mix all the ingredients, then add the 
two eggs, and beat all together. Put into a 
small tin, place it in the oven a few minutes to 
set it, then brown before the fire, cut into 
squares, and place neatly on a dish. It may be 
made with one egg. 

Barley water. —The best way of making 
barley water is:—Take a handful of whole pearl 
barley, put it into a jng and fill the jug with 
cold spring water, stirring occasionally. A little 
lemon peel, cut very thin, put into the jug, gives 
a pleasant flavour. When you pour it into the 
glass, sugar and lemon juice should be added. 
This is a most refreshing and cooling drink. The 
jug may be filled up with water many times. 


Sugar-oake for bees.— In an artiole on 
bees, Bigned “ 8. S. 0.,” it is stated that the bees 
should now only be fed on sugar-cake. May I ask 
what is sugar-cake, and where it is to be got t 1 
do not know of any place in this town (Liverpool) 

where an articlaofih&t name can be bought._ 

fl.SAVAon 


Out flowers In winter.— In the present 
day foliage is as important for cutting as flowers; 
indeed, with plenty of graceful sweet-scented 
foliage to form a setting for flowers, the latter 
need not be crowded to the extent they some¬ 
times are. The foliage of Oak-leaved and other 
sweet-scented Pelargoniums is always in demand 
for cutting. In winter the leaves of P. Kadula 
and its small-leaved variety are suitable for 
putting round Violets and other small flowers, 
as they are both sweet and lasting. Where there 
is convenience for planting these things out in a 
border against a wall in any light house they grow 
very freely ; even the weakest and smallest will 
quickly cover a good space, and in spring large 
flowering sprays may be cut without doing damage. 
The Heliotrope, whenplantedoutinawarmgreen- 
house, is invaluable for winter cutting, and all the 
Abutilous are useful, especially those possessing 
the brightest colours. The white variety Boule de 
Neige produces many more flowers when planted 
out than when grown in pots. Jasminum grand i- 
llorum, planted out in a warm house and trained 
under the glass, flowers all winter, and the old 
Euphorbia jacquinheflora, when planted out, after 
the first flowering shoot has been cut, throws out 
other Uowering branches from below, and a suc¬ 
cession of flowers is produced for a considerable 
time. In the midland and northern counties the 
Laurustinus is worth a place in pots under glass 
for the sake of its ornamental appearance when 
in flower. Trained as standards, from i feet to 
3 feet high, Laurustinuses are useful in the con¬ 
servatory or for indoor decoration, and the 
flowers are useful in a cut state also. I find old 
plants of Pelargonium Vesuvius very serviceable 
for furnishing scarlet flowers in winter, and in 
the south there is a kind called Rosebill Scarlet 
that is largely used for forcing. Mr. Gilbert, of 
the Springfield Nursery, Hastings, grows itlargely 
for cutting. Old, well-ripened plants of it are 
preferred to young ones, because they flower 80 
much more abundantly, and they occupy one 
side of a light, warm house. As a rule, yellow 
flowers are not so much in request in winter as 
other colours, because yellow does not show well 
under artificial light. The J acaranda mimosie- 
folia is an elegant-foliaged plant, very useful in 
a young state, even superior, I think, to the 
Grevillea robusta, which is also a striking little 
plant for furnishing. The Grevillea trained 
standard high, when several years old and large, 
Is one of the most graceful plants for the con¬ 
servatory or for room decoration, and it will 
withstand a good deal of hardship, to which all 
plants that have to be moved from place to place 
in winter must submit. Its Fern-like foliage is 
useful in a cut state, as it lasts so long. The large 
leaves may be cut up into leaflets when too large 
and used with equally good effect. The best 
double white Pelargonium for autumn and 
winter blooming is candidissimum plenum.—H. 


GLASSHOUSES AND HEATING 




My attention having been called to certain advertisements, 
I hereby give notioe that SIR JOSEPH PAXTON’S patented 
“ Hothouses for the Million " are made and sold only by me, 
and that no other person has any right to use these titles in 
connection with glasshouses of any kind, the copyrights being 
mine. 

The "LONDON" BOILER is also a special Boiler made 
for and sold only by me, for which the Royal Horticultural 
Society's Medal was awarded to me. 

BEN’S BOILER, which was twice awarded R.H.S. Medals 
as the beet Laroe Boiler in competition with many otner 
forms, is also being imitated, I And; but the real Boiler can 
only be had from me, or the sole authorised makers 
(H & 8.. Ld.) 

Pressure of business in each of these departments for 
some months past has prevented a neoeesity for my adver¬ 
tising these, and the advertisements of imitators has only 
just been made known to me. 

33. W- WARHUEST, 

Horticultural Builder and Heating Engineer, 

33, HIGHGATE ROAD. LONDON, N.W. 

Also at 31 a. Beaufort Street Chelsea, H W. Successor to 
the " Pall MaU ” Firm of HEREMAN A MORTON. Estab¬ 
lished I860. 

Price Lists of PAXTON R00F8, glazed and painted 
complete, from 10 feet long, for £8. 

Pi ice Lists of cheap Heating Apparatus, with proper 
Boiler and Hot-water Pipes, from £4 for 12 feet long house; 
Boilers alone from 40b. 

Price Lists of " SYPHON ” Gas StOTes, the only safe ones 
for Greenhouse use. Gas boilers, Ac. 

Price Lists of MONARCH. BEN'S, and other large 
Boilers ; Garden Seats, Vasee, Ac , Ac. 

Estimates given on receipt of particulars for Conservatories 
of every description. A pamphlet with illustrations free. 

B. W. WARHT7RST, Highgate Road, London, N.W. 


The Publisher begs to announce that the positions of Adver¬ 
tisements cannot be settled beforehand, nor can any guarantee 
be given for the, continued repetition of the same Aehinieemiul 
in successive weeks. 


nsrow k-E-A-idy. 

TIIE 

GARDEN ANNUAL, 

Almanac, and Address Book 

For 1884. 


PRICE ONE SHILLING, 

Poet free Is. 3d. 


This is the most complete and accurate Yearly 
Keference Book for the use of all interested in 
Gardens yet published. The alphabetical lists 
of all branches of the Horticultural Trade have 
been corrected up to date. The lists of Gardens 
and Country Seats have been very carefully 
revised, while the list of Gardeners is entirely 
re-written, and the Post Towns added with the 
greatest care and attention, and now forms the 
most complete list ever published. The Gardes 
Ahnual may be ordered through all Booksellers, 
Nurserymen, and Seedsmen. It contains, among 
other matters, the following, viz. 

Almanac for the year last. 

Concise Calendar of Gardening Operations 

for each mouth. 

Flowers, Fruits, and Vegetables procurable each 
Month. 

A carefully-compiled Alphabetical List of Nursery 
men and Seedsmen, Florists, Horticulture 
Builders, Engineers, and oftheHorticultural 
Trade generally. 

The Principal Gardens and Country Seats in 
Great Britain and Ireland, arranged in the order oi 
the Counties, extended and corrected to date. 
Alphabetical List of Country Seats and 
Gardens in the United Kingdom, with Karnes of 
their Owners, very much extended, and corrected 
to date. 

Alphabetical List of Head Gardeners In the 
principal Gardena of the United Kingdom, re-written, 
with nearest Poet Towns added. 

New Plants which have received Certificates from the 
Royal Horticultural and Royal Botanic Societies 
Planters’ Tables, Full and Practical. 

Tables of Seeds and for Seed Sowing. 
Quantities of Grass Seeds for various Arne. 
Draining and Fencing Tables. 

Timber, Brickwork, Tank, and other weld 
measurements. 

Hot-water Pipes, their Content* and Weights, *n 4 
Calculated Heating Power, 

Weights and MeaBureB—English, and their Foreign 
Equivalents. 

Money—Ready Reckoning, Wages, and Calculating 
Tables. 

Obituary. 

PRICE ONE SHILLING- 

Post free le. 3d. 


“THE GARDEN" AND “GARDENING 
ILLUSTRATED ” OFFICE: 

37, SOUTHAMPTON STREET, 

Covent Garden, London, W.C. 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vo i.. V. 


NOVEMBER 24, 1883, 


No, 246. 


NOTES ON WINDOW GARDENING. 

( Continued from page 415.) 

Annuals. 

It will be as well to pass under review some 
others of the Californian annuals mentioned last 
week. One of the most beautiful of these is 
the 


Golden ISautonia. 

In growth it is low and spreading, with 
rough, pale green foliage, and the clusters 
of long yellow stamens, which, in some speci¬ 
mens, are tipped with red anthers, add a 
singular beauty to the large shining golden 
flowers. I am not aware that it possesses in any 
degree the stinging properties of its congeners, 
the Chili Nettles (Loasa), but it is strange how 
seldom this remarkably handsome plant is to be 
met with. Seed of it is offered in every good cata¬ 
logue, and it used to be a familiar plant in my 
own garden, but, for some reason, it had dropped 
out of memory until seen again this year in great 
beauty at Kew. It is a plant well worth looking 
after, and it is also of special interest because, 
as a wild flower in its native plains, it is found 
to be exceedingly rare. A well drained sandy 
loam is the best soil suited to its requirements, 
as it is impatient of stagnant moisture about 
the roots. 


Collinsias. 

Besides C. bicolor (referred to last week), 
there are several other species of Collinsia 
which are exceedingly effective, many of 
which are not generally known. They belong 
to the same division of the natural order of Fig- 
worts, which gives us some of our most showy 
flowers, both wild and cultivated, such as the 
Foxglove, Snapdragon, Pentstemons, and others. 
Collinsias seldom reach their full development 
unless they are autumn sown, but they amply 
repay this attention when it is bestowed upon 
them. The well-known C. bicolor produces its 
whorls of lilac and white flowers in great pro¬ 
fusion, and when carefully grown and liberally 
treated is very desirable and ornamental; but a 
closely allied species, 0. multicolor, with flowers 
of deeper and more varied shades of purple, is 
still handsomer, and it is more uncommon and 
also rather more dwarf in habit than C. bicolor. 
A very beautiful and distinct species, and also 
one of the earliest to bloom, isC. verna, the seed 
of which must be sown as soon as it is ripe, as 
it seldom vegetates if kept until the spring. It 
is to Mr. W. Thompson, of Ipswich, that we are 
indebted for the introduction of the newer 
species of Collinsia, as well as for many of the 
best of our garden plants, and many of us who 
are gardeners have gratefully to acknowledge his 
good guidance as to their culture. According to 
his recommendation, the seed of C. verna should 
be sown thinly in a pan or box about the 
middle or end of August, and placed in a north 
aspect, where it should be kept carefully 
watered—moisture being essential to its well¬ 
doing. These directions apply equally well to 
C. violacea, which comes into bloom some ten 
days later, and if I remember right, is considered 
by Mr. Thompson to be one of the best of the 
group. These two species bloom in April: the 
others named above come into flower rather 
later in the spring. Purple in various shades 
and white are the prevailing colours in all the 
species. 

Eschscholtzias. 

Though commonly included in the list of 
Californian annuals, Eschscholtzias are biennials, 
or, more strictly speaking, may even be classed 
as perennials, albeit short-lived ones. The 
original species, E. californica, is widely known 
and there is scarcely a child who has not, at 
some time, been amused by pulling off the ex¬ 
tinguisher-like calyx to release the gay orange- 
1 coloured flower from its prison sheath. The 
i proTerb tells us that familiarity breeds con¬ 
tempt, and for some years the liking for this 
showy plant had passed into abeyance. With 
the prevailing taste, however, for strong, bright 
tolonrs, the Flame Poppy—for few can fail to 
^cognise the peculiar flame-like odour emitted 
by this flower—has once mgre regained !i - - ,J 
jrecedcnce. Of late yeark, many imp-o¬ 


dd 


ties have been raised, the chief of all, perhaps, 
being that, named Mandarin, sent out by Messrs. 
Carter, which is externally of a rich crimson-scar¬ 
let, while the inner surfaceof the petals retainsits 
original orange. Another species, E. crocea, with 
yellow flowers of a paler hue, comes also from 
California, and is the parent of several hybrids, 
eg E. alba and E. rosea, having ivory-white 
blossoms, which in the latter are rose tinted out¬ 
side. No garden should be without white Esch¬ 
scholtzias. Every sowing of good seed will yield 
out of the whole number one or more of the 
exquisitely beautiful large-flowered variety sent 
out at one time as E. alba grandillora. It differs 
from the type merely in being finer in all its 
parts and bearing flowers of greater substance, 
and it is to be hoped that Messrs. Carter, who 
have already made, by careful selection, so many 
improvements in this flower, will be able before 
long to ensure its perpetuation. Nothing can be 
be more lovely than a simple bunch of the 
flowers cat mostly in the bud stage, and allowed 
to expand amongst their own sea-green lcaves| 
in a specimen glass. Seeds may be sown as late 
as December. A beautiful miniature species 
with pale yellow flowers, is E. tenuifolia, which 
was first exhibited by Messrs. Veitch in 1854, 
but it has never become very popular. Its habit 
is very compact, which makes it available for 
some positions to which the more spreading 
varieties are not so well suited. 

Nemofhilas and Clarkias. 

Nemophilas are so well known that they need 
only a passing mention. Amongst the many 
varieties grown, the old sky-blue N. insignis still 
holds a foremost place. Seed may be sown at 
any time. These showy annuals take rank with 
the rose-coloured and white Clarkias in popular 
favour. Of these, C. pulchella and its varieties, 
which grow to a height of 18 inches, are per¬ 
haps the most desirable. Some of the improved 
strains are of dwarfer habit. 

Besides the Californians, some very pretty and 
useful annuals have come to us from Southern 
Europe, and may be successfully grown under 
similar treatment. Of these, the 
Virginian Stock 

(Malcolmia maritima) is a well-known ex¬ 
ample: and a hardier, brighter little subject 
for a great variety of situations it would be diffi¬ 
cult to find. It may be sown anywhere, at any 
season, and in any poor soil, and if kindly treated 
by removing the flowers as they fade, will last for 
many weeks in bloom, while it always looks 
cheerful and gay. It grows naturally on the 
shores of the Mediterranean. It is not generally 
known that the 

Minor Convolvulus. 

(C. tricolor) may be sown in autumn to stand 
the winter, especially where slight protection 
can be afforded to it. Several distinct varieties, 
differing much in colour, are now offered of this 
favourite old plant, and its trailing habit makes it 
particularly suitable for window decoration. It 
is a native of Portugal. 

The present list of annuals for autumn sowing 
may be closed by the Com M arigold ( Chrysanthe¬ 
mum segetum), which, though nothing more than 
a British weed, is one of the brightest and most 
effective of yellow Daisies. A single seedling 
planted in March in the richest of soils makes a 
fine specimen plant. Thus treated it forms a 
pyramid of bloom, and as each flower is produced 
singly on a tolerably long stalk, they are ad¬ 
mirably adapted for cutting and last long in water, 
besides being in great request for personal de¬ 
coration. 

Any of the above-named annuals may be 
pressed into service for the early spring decora¬ 
tion of the window garden or balcony, more par¬ 
ticularly in those towns where the atmosphere is 
free from smoke and dust of factories or great 
chemical and other works. In such towns, the 
windows are gay all through the summer with 
half-hardy greenhouse plants,but 1 do not remem¬ 
ber having met with any attempt at spring gar¬ 
dening. Yet for a few pence, and at the expense 
of a little time and trouble, much might be done 
in this way to enliven the “ turn of the year.” 
The one grand secret of the successful culture of 


annuals is to allow plenty of room, and, in almost 
every case, to grow the plants singly as one 
would grow a Geranium or Calceolaria. The 
difference between a specimen plant so grown 
and another from the same packet of seed crowded 
in a patch, is so remarkable, that an ordinary 
observer would never guess that they belonged to 
the same species. The soil is not a matter 
of great importance; so long as it is well- 
drained and sweet, any ordinary garden 
soil will answer, with a little coarse, sharp 
sand well worked into it to keep it open. During 
the prevalence of sharp weather growth may be 
kept in check; but as soon as the days begin 
to brighten, and the sun gains more power, a 
little assistance with soot water, or any other 
stimulating liquid which may be preferred, will 
be of great service in invigorating the plants. 
The progress of the little plants from day to day, 
when the start is once made, is astonishing, as 
they spread and grow in some cases into good- 
sized bushes. It is not a matter of great diffi¬ 
culty to give slight protection to window boxes 
in very severe weather. An ingenious person, 
fond of the window garden, cau devise a 
temporary shelter with a few bent withies and a 
bit of old matting or carpet. Straw protectors, 
made to fit the window box, after the manner of 
the old-fashioned “ bee-skep,” such as most 
country folk are clever enough to manufacture 
for themselves, would be useful for this purpose 
and not unsightly. But where the zinc lining 
boxes, before recommended, are adopted, it is 
easy to place them under cover during intense 
frost, heavy, drenching rains, or high winds. 

There are deep passage windows with wide 
sills in many an old-fashioned house in a 
country town, which would give standing room 
to a number of small pots, each holding 
a single seedling. I have not actually tried 
it myself so late in the season, but I have 
very little doubt that seed of most, if not all, of 
the annuals here mentioned jvill germinate now, 
if sown at once, and so may be grown on, if the 
requisite care be given, within the shelter of a 
light, airy window until large enough to shift 
into 2J-incb pots, in which they could remain, 
making root growth chiefly until the worst of 
tire winter weather is over. These kept carefully 
watered and given as much air as possible on 
every genial day, to prevent their getting drawn 
np, would be ready to plant in the outside 
window box, or to transfer into their blooming 
pots, in March. Constant watching is necessary, 
and the moment a tendency to spindling is 
observed, it will be best to give more air, for 
these hardy things do not ask for a greenhouse 
temperature, and resent a dry, hot atmosphere. 
It is often an excellent plan to pinch out the 
points of the principal shoots, as it causes the 
lower buds to break, inducing a sturdy growth, 
and greatly increases the number of flowers. 
Whenever it is possible, the plants should stand 
out-of-doors, and if in gentle rain so much the 
better. A small lady's syringe is a most useful 
implement for the indoor gardener to possess, 
as it is impossible to prevent the household dost 
from settling on the occupants of the window 
sill, and it should be removed as often as pos¬ 
sible. A shower from the fine rose of a watering 
pot will answer, if care be taken to prevent too 
great a lodgment of water at the roots. 

The advantages of growing annuals are three¬ 
fold ; they are inexpensive, they give an enor¬ 
mous return of showy flowers for the trouble 
they cost, and when this is over the plants can 
be thrown away, requiring no keeping room, as 
others do, during long months of rest when oat 
of bloom. The blooming period may be greatly 
prolonged by cutting off the dead flowers, and 
so preventing the formation of seed. 

The present notes have been confined to some 
of those best suited for consideration at the 
present season. Hereafter the subject may be 
worth renewing with reference to summer¬ 
flowering species. It must always be borne in 
mind that flowers in windows are subject to 
unnatural vicissitudes of wind and weather. 
In sheltered, sunny windows, free from draught, 
which is a very fatal enemy to all plant growth, 
many things will flourish and give extreme 
pleasure, but the same plants grown in,» position 







428 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Nov. 24, 1883. 


unsuited to them prove an utter failure. J ud g- 
ment must be exercised to choose such as are 
likely from their height and manner of growth 
to suoceed under the given circumstances. No 
great harm is done if an annual fails to give 
satisfaction, but one failure does not altogether 
prove that it is unsuitable to other positions. 

K. L. D. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

DOUBLE DAISIES AND 0 THE it SPRING 
FLOWERS. 

Although Daisies date back perhaps farther 
than most cultivated flowers, they appear to bo 
fast rising in popular favour j and no wonder, 
for they have been greatly improved in size and 
quality of late. Instead of the “ wee, modest, 
crimson-tippit flower," we have now Daisies with 
stems 6 inches or more in length, and with 
blossoms as large and full as those cf a small 
Aster. In Gerard's catalogue, published some 
liJU years ago, several kinds are mentioned; and 
before then, according to William Turner, the 
Hen-and-chickens variety was in existence. And 
this is still a favourite sort in cottage gardens, 
where in several villages in Suffolk numbers of 
it may be seen adorning the borders. The com¬ 
mon Daisy, pretty though it is, is very trouble¬ 
some on lawns, and requires some perseverance 
to rid turf of its presence. This, however, does 
not detract from the value of the cultivated 
kinds, which are indispensable for the embel¬ 
lishment of gardens in spring, as they are 
among the first things to bloom, and they con¬ 
tinue on in full beauty till quite late in the 
season. The prettiest effect I have seen pro¬ 
duced by them is when used in combination 
with Forget-me-nots and common Primroses, 
with either of which they associate well. The 
way we have had them arranged is by planting 
a broad band of the double white Daisy near the 
Grass, then a deeper one of the red, with the 
centre of the bed filled in with the common 
Primrose, and the colour and softness of the 
whole is most charming. In other beds the 
arrangement of the Daisies is reversed; the 
reds are on the outside, and the whites next the 
Myosotis, which mixture of shades produces a 
very pleasing effect. 

Besides the Forget-me-nots and Primroses, 
there are various other plants that may be used 
with the Daisies, among which the best are the 
white, yellow, and blue Pansies or Violas, and 
the Silene and white Arabis, as they are dwarf 
and afford the requisite contrast of colour. The 
Silene is an annual, and may be raised in any 
quantity by sowing seeds in nursery rows in any 
spare ground in the autumn, from whence the 
plants can be lifted and transferred to the beds 
in ihe spring. In doing this they should be 
taken up with good balls of earth, that the 
check may be as little as possible; and when 
planted, it is necessary to give a watering to 
settle the soil about their roots, and they will 
then start off growing at once. To have Daisies 
strong and with good, well-developed crowns, 
on which their flowering freely depends, they 
must be well managed and cared for in summer, 
as every bloom has to be formed and packed np, 
as it were, during that season. To enable the 
plants to carry out this important part of their 
work, they must have good quarters to grow in, 
the best situation being where they can enjoy 
shade during the heat of the day, and in a posi¬ 
tion where they are handy to water. A north 
border under a wall answers well; but before 
planting the ground should be heavily manured 
and deeply dug, and the plants pulled apart and 
divided, when they may be either dibbled in in 
rows 9 inches or so asunder, or placed at that 
distance by the aid of a trowel. The latter way, 
however, is preferable, as the roots are less 
liable to be doubled up and injured or cramped 
than they are when a dibble is used, and the 
saving of time with this implement is not great. 

In country districts common Primroses may 
be obtained from the woods when they are 
wanted for planting, but even these pay well for 
growing; and when once a stock is got, it is 
always advisable to keep them if room can be 
spared, as they give very little trouble, and only 
require pulling apart and treating after the 
manner just advised for the Daisies. Ground 
under fruit trees, such as Apples and Pears, that 
cannot be utilised, for any other purpose, does 
well for growiisPri^nr^sas, ^r}tp^quite natural 


to them to be in such positions; and the same 
with Daisies and Violas or Pansies, as they are 
all shade-loving, and may be planted there, too. 
To increase Violas or Pansies, cuttings should 
be put in, and to obtain these it is necessary to 
cot back the plants a bit, which Bhould be done 
as soon as they cease flowering, after which they 
Boon break and send up a number of young 
shoots from the base. These form the cuttings, 
and to strike them they should be dibbled in in 
sandy soil under hand-lights, where they can be 
kept shaded and occasionally syringed or 
sprinkled with water to cause them to root. As 
soon as they do this, they should be planted out 
in rich soil, and there encouraged to make free 
growth till the autumn. Pansies and Violas may 
also be increased by division, as the numerous 
suckers or side growths they make soon root and 
form separate plants. The lovely Myosotis dis- 
sit.i flora is best raised from seeds, as seedlings 
are always stronger and less tronblesome to get 
np than cuttings, which take some time to root. 
To get Myosotis Beed to germinate readily, it 
should be sown under hand-lights in finely sifted 
soil kept constantly moist by frequent ByringiDg. 

_ S. D. 

Delphiniums. —If not the most beautiful 
of all our border plants, these are certainly 
among the most beautiful. They are unfortu¬ 
nately, in our intensely damp soil and climate, 
peculiarly exposed to the attacks of slugs, and 
these epicurean pests detect with unerring cer¬ 
tainty the choice named varieties, and raven 
after these entrees, leaving the common seedlings 
as joints for coarser feeders. Heaps of bran 
laid at sunset, and a nine o'clock lantern and 
saucer of salt, I find the only safeguards. Were 
I called on to name the best half dozen that 
have come under my notice, I should select the 
old Siberian, Barlowi versicolor, Keteleeri, Her¬ 
man Stenger, Mrs. James Helme, and Protfie. 
Mrs. James Helme I put at the head of the list. 
Its colours, a beautiful mingliDg of light blue 
and delicate pink, are most charming. Its vigour 
is very great, and the length of its grand spikes 
of bloom unequalled by those of any other 
variety. This year it gave me spikes measuring 
4 feet 10 inches from the lowest blossom to the 
tip. This variety and Keteleeri have the very 
useful qualities of yielding seed pretty freely, 
and of almost always producing first-rate 
varieties from their seed. And while on this 
topic I wish very much that you or some of your 
readers would tell me how to endue with vitality, 
and bring from their tender childhood to robust 
middle age, such seedlings as come up with white 
leaves first. This is of constant occurrence with 
seedlings, and no doubt the blossoms of these 
would be quite charming—the most delicate 
colours and the most silvery whites—but, alas ! 
they always die, never produce a single rough 
leaf. I give them every fairplay, knowing the 
almost impossibility of saving the tender seed¬ 
lings from slugs in a frame, even when the pots 
are plunged in ashes. I sow the seed as soon as 
ripe in a pan on a sunny window sill. They 
come up well; about a quarter are white, and 
these always melt away. Any hints on this sub¬ 
ject will be most acceptable, and I am sure to 
others as well, as myself. Another very beauti¬ 
ful variety is Pompone Brilliant, somewhat 
resembling the old Siberian, but inferior in 
colour and in shape of blossom.—D. K., Virginia 
Rectory, Ireland. 

Fuchsia Sunray for the flower garden. 

—Allow me to direct attention to this Fuchsia 
as a decorative plant and also for bedding pur¬ 
poses. Planted out in a conservatory along with 
dark green-leaved plants at thi9 time of the year, 
or indeed at any season, it has a fine appearance, 
its warm variegated foliage contrasting with well 
that of plants of a dark aspect. Last summer I 
bedded out a few dozen plants of it, which did 
well and were greatly admired. Next summer 1 
hope to bed out a quantity of it. It does well, 
too, as a carpet bedding plant. It is easily pro¬ 
pagated in the spring. Anyone wishing to give 
it a trial may soon obtain a good stock of it by 
putting an old plant in some warm house or pit 
where it will soon make plenty of growth from 
which cuttings can be taken. These, if inserted 
in pots or pans in a temperature of from 50° to 
60°, will strike freely, and if potted singly and 
gradually hardened off, they will make useful 
plants for almost any purpose. Cuttings struck 
in March or April, or even later, are best for 
carpeting.—G. H. 


RANUNCULUSES. * 

The Ranunculus i9 a hardy herbaceous peren¬ 
nial, forming small tubers about 1J inches deep 
in the soil, and which goes to rest soon after 
flowering. There are innumerable varieties of 
the Asiatic species (R. asiatica), above a thou¬ 
sand of which have received distinctive names, 
but they are for the most part of an arbitrary 
character. Large quantities have been annually 
imported from Holland, and from that source 
have been derived most of the varieties possess¬ 
ing stroDg and dark body colours. The best 
season for general planting is the last fortnight 
in February—the plants have not then to con¬ 
tend with the severities of the winter. In some 
favourable seasons roots may be planted with 
advantage in October; they will have more time 
to vegetate and establish themselves, will make 
stronger plants, and will bloom more vigorously, 
and about a fortnight earlier than if planted in 
spring. Considerable hazard, however, attends 
autumn planting, and it is not recommended, 
except by way of experiment to those who pos- 



A Florists' Ranunculus. 


soss a large stock and can afford to risk a por¬ 
tion. In fine weather towards the close of 
February, rake the soil perfectly level, and plant 
the roots with the claws downwards, with pres¬ 
sure to secure them firmly in the soil, so as to 
be U inches from the crowns to the surface. 
Genial showers in April and May are essential 
to a vigorous and healthy growth. The Ranun¬ 
culus delights in a moist soil, and if there be a 
deficiency of rain in May water must be plenti¬ 
fully supplied, just at the time the flower bnds 
are appearing. This is a critical period; and 
for lack of moisture many plants fail to bloom, 
and send up only an abortive flower stem. Water 
from a pond or brook is better than that from 
a well; if such cannot be obtained, fill a hi?® 
vessel with water from a pump and expose it to 
the snn and air before nse. It should be appliw 
(morning or evening, according to the state of 
the temperature) from a long spouted pot, and 
not over the foliage, except in cloudy and 

showery weather It may appear an anomalous ^ 

direction to water in wet weather, but advantage ,, 
should be taken of a shower falling to give a 
generous overhead watering, as the plants are * 
then naturally in a better state to receive mois- 
ture than in dry weather when their pores are ^ 
contracted. In wet seasons the roots may be 
lifted as soon as the foliage turns yellow, hutif 
the weather be dry they may remain till it be- ^ 
comes brown. The Ranunculus is apt to vege- 
tate again immediately after it is brought to a I 
state of rest; care is therefore required when I 
the weather is moist at this season to select and I 
take up the sorts as they ripen, and not to wartr 
until the whole are fit. f 



Nov. 24, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


429 


Yellow Paris Daisy (Chrysanthemum 
Etoile d’Or.)—This is a useful Chrysanthemum 
either for bedding or as a pot plant for the con¬ 
servatory. Its flowers are greatly superior to 
those of other varieties both as regards size, 
substance, and purity of colour. It is best pro¬ 
pagated by means of cuttings put in in March, 
and grown on in heat till the end of May, when 
they should be planted out. It is of quick 
growth, and flowers abundantly from July to 
October ; moreover, the flowers withstand rain 
better than those of many other bedding plants, 
and are very effective associated with such 
plants as single Dahlias, Heliotropes, Fuchsias, 
and Abutilons. As a pot plant it flowers freely, 
not only in summer and autumn, but also under 
good treatment all through the winter months. 
Its culture a3 a conservatory plant consists in 
simply growing it in pots in the way in which 
ordinary Chrysanthemums are grown, and 
taking care to house it before there is any 
danger of its being injured by frost.—W. L. 

OhrvsanthemumB.—The collections of 
Chrysan'.ncmums at the loner and Middle Tem¬ 
ple gardens, consisting respectively of 500 and 
1000 plants, were on November 9 in fine order. 
There is also a large collection at Finsbury 
Park of about 1500 pots. Either of these col¬ 
lections are worth a journey to see. It is curious 
to notice how the varieties seem to vary under the 
different cultivators, some that are good with 
one being better with another, and rice versa. 
At the Temple the Japanese varieties seem to 
preponderate, while at Finsbury Park the large, 
incurved sorts are most numerous. SeeiDg how 
much favour these exhibitions find with the pub¬ 
lic, tho question naturally occurs to one—why 
cannot similar shows of other plants be held, 
say, for instance, the Carnation and Picotee? 
These need a very similar course of culture to 
ihe Chrysanthemum, viz., open air growing du¬ 
ring the greater part of the year, and shelter 
under glass during the period of bloom. I com¬ 
mend this suggestion with due deference to 
those concerned —K., Hornsey. 

Marigolds —Amongst the most continuous 
flowers of the season are the Marigolds, that 
keep on flowering both early and late, as well 
as during the heat and drought of summer in 
the most persistent manner, for not even when 
when loaded with seed pods do they fail to 
expand a succession of gay blossoms. I find the 
clear bright yellow dwarf Marigold make a 
good substitute for Calceolarias, and not liable 
to go off when most required. Unfortunately 
the Marigold has not an agreeable perfume, but 
for good foliage and bright flowers to make 
beds and borders gay there are few of the 
annual flowers that can equal it. Marigolds are 
easily raised from seed, and require no artificial 
heat to start them into growth, and if sown in 
March either when they are to flower, or in beds 
to be transplanted, they will be in flower as 
soon as any of the ordinary bedding plants, and 
continue long after the tender ones are cut off 
by frost. For mixed holders or i*olated beds 
the Marigold is well calculated to make a pro¬ 
longed display with little labour bestowed on 
them.—J. G., Hants. 

Single Wallflowers in autumn.— 

these have lately been the most fragrant dowers 
>.f the outdoor garden, and I would advise any- 
une wishing for a good supply in autumn and 
the early winter months to adopt the plan we 
did, viz , to sow some seed late in summer, or as 
soon as it is ripe and sheds naturally. This will 
give nice little plants for putting out early in 
spring, and if pat out about a foot apart, they 
will makefine sturdy bushes that flower naturally 
from this date onwards, provided the weather is 
mild. I find one of the best positions for them 
is between rows of Gooseberry or Currant bnshes, 
as they get sheltered from cutting winds, and 
unless severe frost sets in, they will keep on 
flowering the winter through, and few flowers 
are more highly prized than the siDgle Wall¬ 
flower. The blood-rtd and clear yellow, of which 
there are many selections, are the kinds usually 
in most favour.—J. Groom, Hants. 

10599.— Carnations and Piootees — 
Many of the yellow Picotees are delicate and 
require care in growing, being slow rooters. 
Still they are very beantif ul and well repay good 
cultivation. Tamer’s Flavins, Miss Watson, 
Frince of Orange, and Hooper’s Countess of 
Pembroke are good. A number of fine varieties 
have lately been raised at plough. Some light 

Digitized by GOOgle 


selfa are Yellow Queen (Ware), sulphur-yellow, 
fimbriated, free, and prolific; Virgo (Fletcher), 
pure white, well shaped, but small; the 
Governor (Cross), blush-white ; Gloire de Nancy 
(Lemoine), pure white flowers as large in size as 
the old crimson Clove, and more free in flowering 
than the latter, but rather later. Everyone who 
cares for Carnations should get this. Tree 
Carnations are best grown for winter-blooming 
under glass; they seem to flower naturally at 
that period, and, although many might be 
induced to flower out-of-doors in the summer, I 
do not think it would be found advisable to do 
so, as the fine show varieties are then in season 
and they would somewhat eclipse the former. 
With regard to producing exhibition flowers with¬ 
out a greenhouse, it is quite possible to do so if 
a small conical cap of cardboard or some such 
material be affixed to the stick just above the 
bloom as a protection for a few days before 
cutting. It is better, however, if room can be 
found in a greenhouse for a few pots during the 
blooming time.—K , Hornsey. 

-A full list was given on page 384. In 

addition to these, the following White Clove 
Carnations should be grown: —Bride (Hodges), 
Bridesmaid (Gorton), W. P. Milner (Fisher), one 
of the best; Gloire dc Nancy, and Mrs. Matthews 
(Matthews). Pink varieties: The best are 
Anna Williams, Gertrude Teigner (Ware), Mary 
Morris (Smyth), Rosa Bonheur (Abercrombie), 
fine pale pink. Yellow varieties are not so nume¬ 
rous, but I like King of Yellows best of all, 
Lady Cathcart (Lane) is a pure yellow, Lady 
Rosebery (Turner) a tine full flower. Amongst 
scarlet varieties 1 should choose Coroner, Fire 
Eater, Jupiter (Dodwell), Lucifer (Dodwell), 
Magnum Bonum, and Martial. Of crimson 
varieties the True Old Crimson is yet most 
esteemed; Hindoo (Turner) is also a rich 
maroon-crinson, and Crimson Pet is fine. There 
are also some fine varieties in purple: Cremorne 
(Abercrombie)is fine; Imperial Purple is a large 
rich coloured flower, Lord Rosebery and Sultan 
are also good in this class. A few of the best 
yellow ground Picotees are Alice, Ne Plus Ultra, 
Mrs. Coleman, Prince of Orange, Lightning, 
Daniel Lambert, and Princess Beatrice. Tree 
Carnations will grow and flower out-of-doors; 
they succeed best trained to a wall. It is quite 
possible to grow exhibition Carnations without 
a greenhouse, but the blooms must be sheltered 
from wet and blight sunshine.—J. Douglas. 

10625. Protecting Pansies. — If the 
Pansies are planted out in the open they need 
no protection. If in the form of lately struck 
plants in small pots, they should have the pro¬ 
tection of a glass light. I have seen large 
numbers of plants covered in this way, simply 
with glass lights a few inches above the plants, 
supported at the four corners only, the back 
being of course a little higher than the front so 
as to throw off the* wet, and the sides quite 
open, thus allowing the necessary free circula¬ 
tion of air.—K., Hornsey. 

- They require no protection in ordinary 

winters, but we have frequently lost plants in 
severe winters. In order to make sure of not 
having any losses, we pot a single plant of every 
variety we have, and preserve them in cold 
frames. They can also be protected by hand¬ 
glasses if they are planted in light soil.— 
J. D. E. 

10620.—Alpine Aurioulas,—The best six 
varieties are A. F. Barron, Duchess of Con¬ 
naught, Diadem, King of the Belgians, and Mrs. 
Meiklejohn. It' all these could not be obtained, 
Philip Frost and Queen Victoria are very fine. 
—J. Douglas. 

Disturbing the roots of plants — Any¬ 
one wishing to do so may readily ascertain 
whether or not transplantation induces root 
activity. A hardy tree or plant taken up during 
September or October and laid in again in free 
soil, will, in the course of several weeks, be found 
to have increased its fibrous roots to a consider¬ 
able extent. This is very noteworthy in the case 
of such thiDgs as have thrust their roots deeply 
into the soil, and which do not make many sur¬ 
face feeders. Taken up carefully and laid in 
directly, fibres issue from the long, wiry, fibre¬ 
less roots, which often characterise this descrip¬ 
tion of plant. If I were going to transplant old- 
established Roses, I should prefer to take them 
up about the middle of September, lay them in 
by the heels in a sheltered place until the middle 
of October, when I should find them provided 


with fresh feeders ready to lay hold of the ground 
at once. All plant growers are familar with the 
practice of shaking the plant out of the old soil 
and replacing in the same sized pots, an opera¬ 
tion which invariably stimulates root action. 
Merely lifting a suffering hardy plant, too, will 
often cause it to start away again freely.—J. 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 

Extracts from a Oarden Diary—November 26 
to December 1. 

Sowing Nemophlla in pots ; also Radishes and Carrots 
on a leaf-bed. Manuring and rough digging vacant ground. 
Beginning to dig flower garden borders. Putting show 
Pelargoniums into their flowering pots. Protecting Celery 
ridges with litter when frosty. Hoeing among Straw¬ 
berries and other crops, such as Cabbages. Lettuces, and 
Onions, naming Raspberry canes, giving each two fork¬ 
fuls of manure. Putting herbaceoua Calceolarias into 
their flowering pots. Giving orchard house a thoroughly 
good watering and a top-dressing of manure and loam. 
Trenching border for Roses; finishing the planting 
of fruit trees. Planting a new Mint bed. Making a new 
Mushroom bed. Sowing Mignonette in pots to come in 
in April and May ; also Cucumbers, Mustard and Cress 
regularly, and French Beans in pots. Shifting some late 
Primulas into their flowering pots. Planting Yew trees 
and Junipers in the pleasure ground and guarding them 
with wire protectors to keep oif rabbits. Plunging some 
Hyacinths on bottom heat: also Lily of the Valley. 
Putting in more Asparagus to force, which, if kept at 
65° by night and 70 a by day flre-beat, will be ready for 
use in from sixteen to eighteen days. Nailing and pruning 
Plum trees on walla. Taking up Ghent Azaleas for 
forcing. Giving Lilacs and Briers in pots a top-dressing 
of manure. Pruning and tying up pillar Roses. Pruning 
espalier Pear trees and saving grafts of any kinds that 
are required. Cleaning lawns of leaves and worm costs, 
and rolling them well and often. 

Glasshouses. 

Febns.—T he adaptability for cutting which 
Ferns possess in a great measure depends upon 
the way in which they have been grown. Adian- 
tums, such as A. cuneatum, A. gracillimum, A. 
trapeziforme, A. formosnm, and A. Farleyense, 
with the common and crested drooping forms of 
Pteris serrulata, are mostly in demand for 
cutting, but if these are grown under conditions 
of too much warmth and atmospheric moisture, 
with an insufficiency of light and air, they 
invariably flag when cut, a state it is needlessto 
say that renders them useless. In growing these 
Ferns with a view to using them in a cut state, 
very little shade should be given, and none 
daring the autumn and winter months, with no 
more moisture in the atmosphere than is con¬ 
sequent upon the evaporation of such water as 
percolates through the soil after watering, and 
from that which is unavoidably spilled about in 
the operation, plenty of air admitted daily, and 
the plants kept well up to the glass. The 
favourite A. cuneatum in the London maiket is 
now much better liked when it possesses t he pale 
greenish yellow shade, such as the half matured 
fronds have, than when of a darker colour. This 
may usually be secured by subjecting the plants 
to quite cool treatment when the fronds ate 
about half grown, which invariably has the effict 
of arresting their much further development, 
and in a great measure fixes the light tint. 
Previous to use, all Fern fronds should be cut 
and immersed overhead in water for sevetal 
hours, the water thus absorbed doing much to 
prevent their flagging. Adiantum formosum is 
the best of the species for lasting long without 
drooping, and is very useful for mixing in the 
larger arrangements of flowers, snch as vases, 
&c. The same may be paid of the best large 
drooping-crested forms of Pteris serrulata, which 
in large stands have a fire effect. Plants of 
Adiantum that have been hard cat during the 
summer and have been induced to make growth 
late in the season should now have plenty of air 
and be kept at an ordinary greenhouse tempera¬ 
ture for some weeks before the fronds are cat for 
use. 

Cyclamens. —To insure as long a reason for 
these as possible the plants should be divided 
and kept in two different temperatures; those 
that are flowering or fast approaching this con¬ 
dition produce the finest blooms when accommo¬ 
dated with the temperature of a warm greenhouse, 
say 45° to 50° by night, and a little warmer in 
the day, but with this they should bo kept well 
exposed to the light with air every day. Giro 
particular attention to keeping down aphidea, 
which, if allowed to remain undisturbed even for 
a short time-, do irreparable mischief to the 
leaves and advancing flowers. Those that are 
intended to succeed the earliest blooming lot 
should be kept quite cool, so as to retard the 
expansion of the flowers as long as possible, 



430 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


l Nov. 24, 1883. 


BpACRISES. —These, if grown in sufficient 
quantities and well managed, will be extremely 
useful, lasting individually for many weeks, and 
being equally adapted for cutting as for ordinary 
decoration on the plants. They will bear more 
warmth than Heaths, but unless they are 
backward in blooming and flowers are required 
at once, it is better to keep them quite cool. 
Their time of flowering is best regulated by the 
way they are managed in respect to growth. 
Those that were late in completing and maturing 
their wood will comeinto bloom later as a matter 
of course. To still further retard those that are 
wanted to last until spring, they should be kept 
as cool as consistent with the exclusion of frost; 
this they will bear without any injury, as a low 
temperature with them has not, as in t he case of 
some plants, the effect of inducing the appear¬ 
ance of mildew. But EpacrUes are very impatient 
of the least approach to over-watering, and 
never should have it applied until the soil has 
got so dry as to be dangerous if it is longer with¬ 
held. 

Epiphyllums. —Plants of Epiphyllum trun- 
catum, although individually so effective when in 
bloom, are unfortunately not of long duration in 
the individual flowers; consequently it is not 
well to have many in at once. With this view 
only a few should be put into heat at a time at 
intervals of two or three weeks, and on no 
account should they be hurried on too fast, 
otherwise their fugitive tendency will be 
increased; and with all soft textured flowers 
like these it is particularly essential that there 
is not too much moisture in the atmosphere of 
the house or pit where they are brought on into 
bloom. Large flowered Epiphyllums and the 
Cactus family generally should at this season 
not be located in a cold, damp house, and care 
ought to be taken that the soil is not too moist; 
the condition best described as between slightly 
moist and quite dry suits them best when cool 
and at rest, otherwise the comparatively few 
roots which they make are liable to perish. 
These large flowered species bloom naturally 
later than the truncatum section; nevertheless 
they will bear forcing if required early, and with 
this intention, if there is any likelihood of a 
scarcity of flowers during the early months of 
the year, they may be put in heat and brought 
on slowly, being careful not to give much water 
at the roots until the heads of the plants have 
got into a plump condition, which they soon will 
through the moisture absorbed from the atmo¬ 
sphere of a warm house. 

Myrtles. —These are most useful in the 
winter season, and if the plants have been welt 
managed so as to make their growth early and 
get the wood well matured by being stood out 
in the sun through the summer, they force well. 
Independent of their appearance when in bloom, 
they are very serviceable for cutting, their pretty 
flowers and neat foliage being very effective 
combined with other things of a more showy 
character. The miniature variety, Jenny Reiten- 
bach, is one of the best for bouquets. 

Bedding plants —There is much to do in 
the way of picking off the dead leaves of Pelar¬ 
goniums, dusting Verbenas with sulphur to 
destroy mildew, and fumigating others that are 
attacked with green fly. Violas, Gnaphaliums, 
Calceolarias, and other kinds that are planted 
out in cold pits are being surfaced with Cocoa 
fibre for the double purpose of keeping out frost 
and rendering it unnecessary to water them for 
some weeks to come. Seeds of the following 
kinds of succulents, if sown now, will make 
good plants for next season: Echeveria metal- 
lica, E. glauca metallica, E. secunda glauca, 
Sempervivum tabulicfiorum, S. canariense and 
S. Donkelaari. The propagation of other kinds 
by leaves or offsets may go on all through the 
winter. 

Flower Garden. 

Dog’s-tooth Violets. — Nothing in their 
way can be more beautiful than the varieties of 
Erythronium (Dog’s-tooth Violets) ; those who 
intend growing these should procure E. gigan- 
teum or grandiflorum, a fine red variety ; E. 
album majus, a very large-flowered pure white, 
much superior to the old white variety ; E. 
americanum lanceolatum, yellow, a very distinct 
and desirable kind ; E. atro-roseum, a deep 
rose-coloured kind ; E. purpureum majus, with 
large mauve - purple flowers ; E. giganteum 
album, splendid white, bearing eight or ten 
"towers on a ttalkT 8. giganteum flavum, fine 

Digitizes fcTVjOi gle 


golden yellow. Either grown together in a bed | 
or in good-sized patches at the front of the 
herbaceous border, these plants have a charm¬ 
ing effect, not alone for the beauty of their 
flowers, but their handsome mottled leaves are 
very attractive; they should be planted without 
delay. 

Ranunculuses. —Hardy kinds of these, such 
as the Turban varieties, may now be planted in 
situations where the soil is dry; but the more 
valuable sorts should not, except in very 
favourable positions, be planted yet, as they are 
apt to suffer from wet by lying too long in the 
ground. 

Anemones should be largely grown where a 
succession of handsome hardy flowers is held in 
estimation, the plants, from their compact habit 
and the continuous brilliant-coloured blooms 
which they produce, being almost without a 
rival; the single scarlet variety is most effective, 
commencing to flower in a mild season during 
the first month in the year. Anemones like a 
moderately rich, free soil, and if grown in 
clumps in the herbaceous border should occupy 
a front position on account of their dwarf habit 
of growth. A very pleasing effect may be pro¬ 
duced in spring by planting large masses of 
Snowdrops, Crocuses, and Daffodils in the grass 
in different parts of lawns, in grass plots in out- 
of-the-way corners, or in front of shrubbery 
borders and under trees. These may be either 
planted in patches or dispersed 6 inches or 8 
inches apart over the available ground. The 
places chosen for plants of this kind should not 
be in too close proximity to the dwelling, as the 
tops ought not to be removed in the spring until 
after they are dead, which, in a very prominent 
position, would be unsightly. Where any of the 
above plants are to be so arranged they should 
be planted immediately. 

Crocuses and Snowdrops may be put in by 
making holes with an ordinary dibber, covering 
the bulbs with a little loose soil; for Daffodils, 
holes must be made with a spade, but whatever 
way the planting is effected it can with 
ordinary care be done even on Grass without 
having an unsightly appearance. 

Shrubbery. 

Contrary to the general practice, we always 
clear out all the leaves from Rhododendrons and 
other shrubbery clumps, for the simple reason 
that were they left we should be pestered with 
sweeping up whenever there was the least wind, 
and so we prefer to mulch the clumps as soon as 
cleared out with the mould from leaves stacked 
two or more years ago, and plants that have 
been recently moved receive a treble portion by 
way of protection to their injured roots, and no 
doubt, also, the extra warmth thus assured aids 
new root formation. Advantage is taken of dry 
frosty mornings to wheel this material to the 
desired spots, and also to stack up fresh leaves, 
and to wheel manure and soil to plots that are 
being prepared for planting, as we have always 
some of this on hand; and though we would prefer 
to discontinue moving shrubs after December has 
commenced till February, necessity often compels 
us to keep on all through the winter whenever 
the weather permits, and hitherto, by taking extra 
care not to allow the plants to be out of the ground 
loDger than is absolutely necessary and staking 
and thickly mulching them as soon as planted, we 
have found winter planting to be just as success¬ 
ful as autumn or spring. With one exception 
only, viz., Hollies, all kinds of trees and shrubs 
may be successfully transplanted throughout the 
winter. Hollies we have also done, but cannot 
recommend the practice, at least not as compared 
with plants moved during April and May. As with 
planting, so with pruning shrubs and cutting 
hedges, we are compelled to be heterodox, and do 
them whenever an opportunity occurs, without 
reference to the season, and at the present time 
are busy clipping Yew screens. Holly and Privet 
hedges, and cutting straggling shoots off Rhodo¬ 
dendrons that arc growing under the shade of 
large trees that in 6uch positions develop this 
kind of growth, and to keep them in anything 
like compact form they need such attention every 
year. Common and Portugal Laurels are being 
pruned into form, and upright-growing shrubs, 
such as Junipers and Irish Yews, are being drawn 
together with tar cord to prevent wind and snow¬ 
storms from breaking off any of the outside 
branches. Some few Conifers, especially the 
strongest-growing young plants, need to have 
some of the uppermost branches stopped, and 


the points pinched out, that the plants may grow 
into a good shape. The leaders should be pre- 
served from injury from birds perching on them 
by tying straight sticks to the stems, the top of 
which should be a foot or so above the top of the 
trees. 

Fruit. 

Early Vines. —The first house of permanent 
Vines, which was closed about the middle of this 
month, must be fairly at work by the first week 
in December, when, in order to economise fire- 
lieat and to insure an even break, particularly 
where the Vines are young, the preparation and 
introduction of fermenting material, consisting 
of leaves and short stable manure, must be re¬ 
duced to a system. If an open shed is at com¬ 
mand, this will be found the best place for the 
reserve, as heavy falls of rain and snow can 
then be received with impunity. As the buds 
show signs of swelling gradually raise the tem¬ 
perature by day, but until after the shortest day 
let the heat range about 50° at night. Keep 
every part of the house nicely moistened with 
the syringe, and syringe the rods frequently 
when fire-heat is on. At other times eet mois¬ 
ture and ammonia at liberty by turning the 
leaves, and take in fresh supplies as may be 
thought necessary. 

Mid-season Vines may be pruned and the 
houses got ready for shutting up as soon as the 
Vines are clear of foliage. If insects of any kind 
have been troublesome remove all the loose 
bark, scrub the old spurs with strong soapy 
water, stop all suspicious holes and cracks with 
pure Gishurst, and paint with a solution of the 
same, 8 ounces to the gallon of water, thickened 
to the consistency of cream with sifted loam. 
On the other hand, Vines which have not been 
infested may be passed over with a good wash¬ 
ing, as nothing is gained by dressing where there 
is nothing for the dressing to destroy. Of all 
the insects with which the Grape grower has to 
contend, the mealy bug is most to be dreaded, 
as it too often springs into life year after year 
where the most careful attention has been 
devoted to its destruction. Spirits and oils of 
various kinds have been used, and all of them 
kill where they touch, but it generally happens 
that some escape, and the only way in which 
they can be successfully exterminated is by 
careful watching and searching in the spriDg, 
when every bug may be destroyed as it emerges 
from its winter quarters by dressing the place 
with Gishurst compound or methylated spirits 
of wine. 

Late houses.— If the laterals and extension 
growths have not been removed, take them off at 
once, as they hold moisture and keep the sap in 
motion. Remove the ripe foliage as it parts 
freely to the touch, but not before, as many late 
Vines often carry their foliage well into Decem¬ 
ber. In damp or foggy weather keep the front 
ventilators closed, and give a chink of air at the 
apex with just sufficient fire heat to expel mois¬ 
ture. On bright, dry days create a circulation 
of air by opening the top and bottom ventilators 
for a few hours, warm the pipes to set it in 
motion, and shut up in time to prevent the tem¬ 
perature from descending below 45° after the 
heat is turned off. Get all external borders well 
covered with Fern or litter, and place lights or 
shutters over all where the Grapes are intended 
to hang until after Christmas. From this time 
forward the bunches must be looked over twice 
a week. 

Orchard houses. —The time has arrived for 
getting all pot trees standing out doors well 
plunged to protect the pots from injury by the 
expansion of the soil during frosty weather. 
When thus taken care of, the general stock may 
remain out in the open air until the middle or 
end of Jauuary, when they will be the better 
under glass. Meantime steps must be taken for 
cleansing, painting, and preparing the interior 
of the house, particularly where it is or has been 
used for soft-wooded plants like Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, which sometimes leave an unwelcome 
legacy behind them. The general pruning having 
been performed early in the autumn, shortening 
back and and washing will, as a matter of course, 
be deferred until the time arrives for housing, 
but on no account allow the last named opera¬ 
tion to be neglected, as the work is quickly per¬ 
formed, and careful washing with strong soap 
water is quite as beneficial to young wood, be it 
ever so free from insects, as sponging is to plant 
foliages A few words may be said with regard 



Nov. 24, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


431 


to shorteniag back, as serious mistakes are 
sometimes made by cutting the dormant trees 
into shape, when shy kinds like the Noblesse 
Peach, which only make terminal wood buds, 
lose some of their most promising shoots by 
their removal. Practical men who know that it 
is always safe to prune to a triple bud can make 
no mistake ; but the amateur, whose great de¬ 
light is centred in the performance of his own 
knife work, will do well to wait until the 
buds begin to swell, or if he leave it until the 
fruit is set no harm will be done. 

HABDY fruit. —In a precedingcaleDdar atten¬ 
tion was drawn to the importance of getting the 
pruning and nailing of fruit trees pushed forward 
during the prevalence of mild weather, as, inde¬ 
pendently of the fact that the work can be done 
better, the ground will be clear of refuse and 
ready for the reception of manure when weather 
suitable for wheeling sets in. If not already 
done, cow is a good time to unnail all the Cher¬ 
ries preparatory to pruning and washing with a 
strong solution of Gishurst compound or any 
other insecticide most in favour. When dry tie 
the shoots together in small bundles, secure 
them to stakes, and wash the walls ; if old and 
full of nail holes, with strong brine lime water, or 
the composition recommended in a recent calendar 
for hardy fruits. Where labour is equal to the 
demand, the same treatment applies to Plums, 
Apricots, and in some cases to Pears, but where 
the latter are quite free from scale they may be 
nailed in without delay. When pruning old trees 
it is a good plan to thin out the spurs and to 
scrape the Moss and Lichens off the branches for 
the twofold purpose of letting in warmth and 
air to the fullest extent, and increasing the size 
and quality of the fruit. Trees on the Quince 
stock soon become one mass of spurs, and unless 
annual attention is paid to this operation, the 
fruit on many of the kinds becomes small and 
putty; farther, the root run being limited, mulch¬ 
ing with good rotten manure is an important 
factor in the production of fine fruit; but as this 
annual dressing would soon raise the borders in¬ 
conveniently high, the difficulty may be got over 
by casting the old mulching over the border to ; 
be forked in for vegetable crops and byreplacing ! 
it with fresh from the frame ground. The best 
time to do this is early in autumn, and if within 
reach, the remains of an old Melon bed, soil in¬ 
cluded, will be found a suitable material for the ! 
purpose. Get Raspberries staked and tied ready 
for mulching, but defer cutting off the tops until' 
the buds begin to swell in the spring. Untie 
Figs, rub off the half-swelled fruit, and tie the 
shoots together in bundles. Have protecting 
material reacy, but do not apply it during the 
continuance of mild weather. 

Vegetables. 

Globe Artichokes. —These should now be 
protected ; if, after the heads were used, the old 
stems were cut away, the young growth at the 
bottom will be in a robust state, capable of 
enduring even the most severe winter with a 
little protection. The best material is about 
1 foot of dry litter placed lightly round the 
young shoots, but not over them, leaving the 
iargest leaves just above the litter; round this 
place 9 inches of soil two-thirds as high up as 
the litter, in the form of a slight Celery ridge, 
but not drawn up so close. Where the rows are 
near together it will be necessary to bring the 
soil from elsewhere. In this case coal ashes, if 
at hand, will answer the purpose in every way. 

Early Peas. —Those who reside in districts 
where severe and protracted frost is not usual, 
and where, in addition, the soil is of a light 
nature, may now sow a few early Peas for the 
chance of having some a little more forward in 
the season than by later sowing. Choose a 
situation sheltered from the north and east 
winds, with the ground, if possible, sloping to 
the south. Dig it well, and mark out the rows 
4 feet apart; in opening the ground for sowing 
do not go above 2 inches in depth, for if the 
Peas are put in deep at this season, they are 
liable to rot. Sow considerably thicker than 
would be required in spriDgto make up for such 
as may not vegetate, or that suffer from the 
attacks of slugs; cover with the soil in the usual 
way, and over the top put a couple of inches of 
fine coal ashes. This will not only act as a pro¬ 
tection from frost, but also prevent slugs from 
penetrating the ground and devouring the young 
sprouts as they are pushing up through the soil. 
On ground that is much infested with slugs 

Digitizes glC 


there is great difficulty in keeping these early- 
sown Peas from being eaten, and if, in addition, 
the soil is of a wet retentive nature it is better 
to defer sowing until January. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

Everything being now in order for the winter 
in the outdoor department, there is really very 
little to do here until the days begin to lengthen 
again. We have few, if any, Roses to prune, and 
the less these are cut the better when the growth 
is so poor, and what little is necessary Bhould be 
left till February or March. Trees and shrubs, 
as a rule, very seldom need the knife, what is 
required being to encourage growth, not to 
remove it. Vines shonld be spurred into two or 
three good buds from the main shoot or rod, and 
the branches or shoots carefully arranged and 
securely nailed to the best advantage. 

Hardy and half hardy plants in frames must 
have plenty of air during mild weather, and be 
well matted up during frost. The drier they are 
kept at the root, so that no actual injury to the 
plants takes place, the better for their welfare. 
Bulbs may still be planted in the open ground, 
though they will not flower so well as if put in 
a month ago. Spirreas, Lilies of the Valley, and 
other similar roots that are potted for forcing, 
should be plunged in ashes or Cocoa-nut fibre, in 
a cold pit or frame; in tbis way they will do 
much better than if placed in even a moderately 
warm house at once. Cover the pots 2 inches or 
3 inches deep with the plunging material, and 
when needed clean the pots and place them in 
the forcing house or greenhouse. 

Under glass most plants are now more or less 
at rest, and should be kept moderately dry at 
the root. Primulas, however, with several other 
plants usually in a more active state at this 
season, should receive more moisture and be 
placed in the warmest and most favourable 
positions, particularly if there is only one house 
at command. Avoid, as far as possible, potting 
plants at this time of year. Cinerarias and 
Calceolarias may, however, be repotted at almost 
any season, especially if they can bo kept close 
and a little warmer than usual for a short time 
afterwards ; and zonal and other Pelargoniums, 
if required early, will do better if potted off 
singly about this time, though it is preferable to 
get this done earlier if possible, but they should 
all have a little extra heat for a time, or many 
will be lost. B. C. R. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


THE COOL GREENHOUSE. 

The question of how to make a greenhouse look 
gay the whole year round is of the highest im¬ 
portance to amateurs who have only one glass¬ 
house, and therefore want it to present a cheer¬ 
ful and inviting appearance at all times, but 
more especially in the winter months, and many 
are the queries we receive under this head, for 
from the locality in which I write amateur gar¬ 
dening is so enthusiastically taken up that it is 
no exaggeration to say that small greenhouses 
may be counted by the hundred in every con¬ 
ceivable shape and size. The term amateur 
gardener embraces a wide range of the devotee/ 
of horticulture, for not only do the well-to-do 
occupants of the villa residences occupy and 
enjoy their leisure in gardening, but the me¬ 
chanics and artizans that may be counted by 
thousands who find employment in the great 
national dockyard hard by,'nearly all contrive to 
have a little bit of glass, what are termed tenants’ 
fixtures being in great favour; and the moveable 
heating apparatus makes the owner feel secure 
of his horticultural treasures. It is not so much 
heated structures that are wanted, for stove 
plants and stove temperatures are not required, 
but just sufficient fire heat to keep frost at bay 
and expel damp. There is no lack of material to 
make the house gay at any time of the year, 
provided a little forethought is employed, and 
without this it is useless having the most exten¬ 
sive resources, for only by looking ahead and 
providing for the wants of the coming season 
can an unbroken succession be kept up. 

It is one of the greatest mistakes to suppose 
that plants require a maximum of attention when 
they are in bloom, for that is the time in which 
they require the least done to them, as beyond 
keeping them supplied with water at the root, 
but little can be done. It is when they are in 
the sere and yellow leaf that they require the 


greatest attention as regards repotting and other 
routine work of which we only get the reward 
when the gay petals unfold, and he who would 
have a greenhouse gay the whole year must 
make up his mind to never let a week pass with¬ 
out some preparatory work. There is always 
something to be done in the smallest garden or 
greenhouse, and poor and uninteresting in the 
extreme are gardens that are put in order for 
the summer or winter season, and given such a 
polish that they need no further attention for 
three months, simply because the fixed rules and 
date principle does not suit any plant or collec¬ 
tion of plants large or small that ever was got 
together. I could mention plenty of gardens 
and glasshouses that are filled with plants at 
certain seasons, and entirely bare at others that 
cost double and treble what others do that are 
full to overflowing the whole year round. Yet 
the interest of the former is by no means equal 
to that of the latter, for the true lover of 
gardening does not look upon a feast of 
blossoms one week, and bare beds and stages 
the next, as the thing to strive after, bnt a suc¬ 
cession of good things in bloom and coming on 
in bud and in various stages of development. 
Taking the present season as the starting point 
of the horticultural year I will give a brief 
outline of the flowers in bloom and rapidly 
advancing to that stage that will make the 
greenhouse gay until the spring, which is the 
easiest of all the seasons of the year for a 
brilliant display. First on the list of autumn 
and early winter flowers is 

Chrysanthemums, a host in themselves, 
varied in colour, form, and size, for although a 
hardy plant the Chrysanthemum needs the pro¬ 
tection of glass to do it justice. The plants 
should be grown wholly out of doors until they 
begin to expand their blooms, and when under 
glass kept as cool and airy as possible, merely 
protecting from storms of rain and wind. A few 
well-grown plants will make the greenhouse gay 
for several of the dullest and darkest weeks of 
the year. 

Pelargoniums of the zonal section are in¬ 
dispensable adjuncts to the amateurs' greenhouse. 
Old plants that have stood out of doors in full 
sunshine during the summer will, when brought 
under glass in September, develop into brilliant 
heads of flower. A dry atmosphere is of more 
importance than any fixed temperature; a little 
heat to expel the damp will keep Pelargoniums 
flowering freely up to Christmas. 

Ericas or Heaths are amongst the moit 
beautiful of winter-flowering plants for cool 
houses, in fact they are more injured than 
benefited by artificial heat. They must never 
be allowed to get dry at the roots, or they will 
be irretrievably injured. The best for flowering 
at this season is Erica byemalis, neat little 
bushes full of flower buds being sold by the 
thousand at this season of the year. They 
perish in the dry, arid atmosphere of living 
rooms, but luxuriate in the cool greenhouse. 
Another good variety in Erica gracilis autum- 
nalis; a few of these hardy plants make not 
only a cheerful but lasting display, and in 
summer may be set in a shaded position out-of- 
doors on a ooal-ash bed, and kept carefully 
supplied with water at the roots. 

Primula sinensis in varied colours should 
not be omitted from the most limited collection, 
for they have beautiful foliage, as well as hand¬ 
some flowers. Thereis no difficulty inbaving them 
in bloom all the winter. If sown in April, and 
grown on gently, they will be fine plants just 
coming into bloom as the winter comes on, and 
if carefully attended to with water will last the 
whole winter. When the central flower spike 
begins to fail or get seedy, pick it off, and 
two or three side spikes will push up and make 
a line head of flower. 

Solan um Catsicastrum is ono of the most 
useful of winter decorative plants, lasting a long 
time in good condition, its brilliant red berries 
being most effective amongst green foliaged 
plants. This Solanum does best in the open 
air all the summer, and only needs bringing 
under the Bhelter of a glass roof at the end of 
September, when its berries quickly assume a 
brilliant colour. 

Cyclamen TEEsrcuM is perhaps the best of 
all bulbous, rooted plants for winter flowering. 
If the bulbs are potted up in Jnly, they will be 
coming into flower in October. A great advance 
1 has been made in this beautiful flower during 




432 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Nov. 24, 1883. 


the last few years, aDd a packet of seed may be 
relied on to prodace plants fit for exhibition. 

Veronicas are nearly hardy plants that 
flower naturally at this time of year; a coolhonse 
saits them admirably, and as they produce spikes 
of flowers in various shades of bine and pnrple, 
they are very desirable for giving variety to any 
collection of winter flowering plants. 

Laububtines make very effective plants under 
glass, the white heads of flower being very much 
purer in colour than when grown out-of-doors. 
Short standards are very pretty in pots, as they 
may be used amongst dwarfer plants with 
with very good effect, and by plunging them in 
the soil in summer they may be kept for several 
years and come in most useful for the green¬ 
house in winter, or for any indoor decoration at 
at any time of year. 

Palms of the hardiest kinds are a great assis¬ 
tance to the amateur gardener. Chammrops 
humilis and C. Fortunei, Latania borbonica, 
Corypha australis, and others from temperate 
climes help to make a greenhouse more effective 
than when flowering plants only are used. They 
may be set out-of-doors in summer, and brought 
in again as soon as the nights get cold. 

Ficus elastica is an cxellent foliaged plant 
for the greenhouse, also Aralia Sieboldi and A.S. 
variegata, Grevellea robusta, and Dracarna aus¬ 
tralis. With a few nice specimens of these ser¬ 
viceable plants there will be little difficulty in 
keeping up a good display for edging or 
fringing the stages or shelves. A good supply of 
the hardier kinds of Ferns, such as Pteris serru- 
lata, P. cretica alba, Adiantum Capillus-Veneris, 
Lycopodium, and the trailing Tradescantias 
are most useful. There is in fact no lack of 
material suited to the wants of the amateur, the 
above mentioned varieties being only a brief 
selection that I have myself tried and proved to 
be adapted to the purpose named, and anyone 
growing these may add to them from time to 
time as oppdrtunity offers. James Groom. 

Gosport. 

AN AMATEUR’S GREENHOUSE. 

I want to try to do what “ H. B." asks. Al¬ 
ways a lover of flowers, I began some forty years 
ago to try to grow them under glass. I com¬ 
menced with, I think, fifty Camellias selected 
for me by my late friend, Mr. Loddiges, of 
Hackney, from his then famous collection. 
They cost me £10, and were, of course, small 
plants. My greenhouse had no arrangement for 
artificial heat. I was recommended by my 
friend to use for soil chiefly loam with a little 
peat; to re-pot them about every three or four 
years; not much to increase the size of the 
pots; and never to turn them out in summer. 
They grew to large trees, which were valued at 
from four to eight guineas when I left London 
eight years ago. I brought five of them here 
(Suffolk),and last spring their hundreds of bloB- 
soms were the admiration of everybody and 
everybody’s gardener. They used to commence 
blooming in November and leave off in June; 
my house looked as lovely as it is possible to 
conceive. For many years I managed them en¬ 
tirely myself, but during a part of the time I 
had gardeners, though I never ceased to look 
after my plants myself, and I had a “ Polmaise 
stove ” put up, the very perfection of heating, 
in my humble opinion, though mine cost me 
upwards of £20. This was for the sake of other 
plants and the Vines, from which I got very 
good Grapes—the result chiefly of the gardener's 
management. With the Camellias I grew Orange 
trees— trees one could sit under. I often 
gathered a dish of the most delicious oranges 
for my table, and year after year they were 
loaded with blossom, green fruit and ripe 
fruit at the same time ; lovely things! 
For the sake of my Camellias, I never 
allowed a fire to be lighted if it could possibly 
be avoided. After living out a twenty-one 
years’ lease in this bouse near London, I re¬ 
moved, plants and all, to another, where there 
was no glasshouse whatever, and while I was 
having one put up, I saw my poor Camellias 
thickly covered with snow more than once. 
That year—after this ordeal— I really think the 
flowers were better than I ever saw them ; X men¬ 
tion this to prove their hardiness if they are 
managed as I was taught. Until two years ago 
I had no greenhouse here, and used to put my 
pets in the coach-house in winter, and to turn 
them out in summer; they merely kept alive, 

Digitized by GOOgle 


and I lost my Orange trees. The first year after 
I gave them better quarters they made good 
growth, and consequently they were full of 
bloom last spring. I ent two of the most ex¬ 
quisite baskets of them to send to a neighbour, 
where six or seven gardeners with every appli¬ 
ance are kept, and she was astonished and de¬ 
lighted. So much for Camellias. I have tried 
to grow many other plants with them, and have 
succeeded with Myrtles, Oleanders, Pome¬ 
granates, Azaleas—Heaths and Ericas I have 
never succeeded with—but I think I have with 
Pelargoniums, Geraniums, Fuchsias, Ageratums, 
Primulas, Coronillas, Calceolarias, Cytisus, 
Heliotropes, Cyclamens, Begonias, Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, Cinerarias, Solanums, Deutzia gracilis, 
which, with Mignonette and Violets and a few 
bulbs, and last, but not least, a lovely group of 
Ferns in a corner and in baskets, I have had 
in flower all the year round, which, with the foliage 
of the Camellias, &c , behind them, have shown 
to the greatest perfection. Now, as to heating, I 
repeat I never light a fire if I can help it. Last 
winter I lighted one three times, and not oftener 
the year before. I cover up with mats 
all round the house and sometimes on the top 
too. I use rice bags split open and sewn 
together to the sizes required. They are put up 
in a very few minutes if hooks and rings are put 
to them—they do not darken the house too much 
even if left on fora few frosty days,and answer, 
in my opinion, better than any artificial heat 
one can apply. This, with all the ventilation 
which can be given (not draught), and removing 
the mats at every proper time, has brought forth 
the remark in my case, times out of number, 
“Your plants look so strong and healthy.” If 
these observations are likely to be of any use, 
they are at your service, for every reader must 
desire to help your very valuable paper. I 
should add, I have always grown Vines over my 
flowers, and I think they are advantageous in 
summer and do no harm in winter. H.W. 


Nertera depressa —Having seen many 
enquiries from amateurs like myself respecting 
the above beautiful plant, I now write to offer 
my experience, having been very successful with 
it this year. I say this year, for I have had it 
for three years, and only succeeded in getting it 
to blossom and fruit this year. In the spring 
I put it in a very warm frame or hotbed which I 
made up for raising seeds and striking cuttings, 
and supplied it liberally with water—the water 
was warm, being k-.pt in the frame ready for 
use. I had two pans about 7 inches across 
covered with berries. One pan was better than 
the other in this respect, that the berries or fruit 
were well seen above the foliage. The other pan 
was splendid in its way, but not so satisfactory, 
for though full of berries, they were concealed 
by the foliage. I shall be glad of any hint to 
remedy this next year. This plant I did not 
transplant this year; the first and most success- 
one I did.— A Constant Reader. 

Bouvardias in winter.— Anyone who 
can command a warm greenhouse and who may 
require a large quantity of cut flowers at this 
cheerless season should grow Bouvardias. X do 
not know a plant that affords so great a supply 
of really beautiful flowers, which are charmingly 
effective for bouquets, admirable for table 
decoration, and appropriate for button-hole 
posies. For the last month I have had a small 
house in which Strawberries are forced, and in 
which, at this early period, only a gently 
stimulative temperature is maintained, half filled 
with Bouvardias, old and young, from 1 foot to 
3 feet in height, and these plants are literally 
covered with the gay white, pink, and deep red 
flowers of the sorts called Vreelandi, Maiden's 
Blush, and Hogarth, and for several years past 
we have been successful in securing an equal 
abundance of bloom. When first brought into 
notice Bouvardias found a place in an inter¬ 
mediate stove, or, at any rate, were constantly 
kept under glass, and the development of bloom 
was by no means satisfactory. Changing this 
system of treatment, the plants were pruned 
back to the ripened wood, and late in May 
turned out like balf-hardy bedding plants, but 
with the advantage of having a prepared bed of 
deep and rich soil, and the partial protection of 
a box frame as a safeguard against exceptionally 
severe weather. The satisfactory result of this 
treatment was soon demonstrated in a vigorous 
and perfectly healthy growth. In the autumn, 


sufficiently early to save the plants from injury 
from frost, to which they are susceptible, they 
are lifted and potted in a compost of loam, pest, 
leaf-soil, and well-rotted manure, forming ;i 
compact mass of roots; then removal is attended 
with less danger, and kept for a short time close, 
shaded, and watered overhead, they suffer but 
little injury; indeed, it seems to throw them 
more abundantly into bloom, which is produced 
in constantly succeeding clusters during Novem¬ 
ber, December, and January. When the flower¬ 
ing time is over the plants are removed to a cool 
greenhouse, and towards the end of March 
pruned back ready for planting out later in the 
season. Some half-dozen old plants are generally 
retained in the house in which they have bloomed, 
and after being moderately pruned the pots are 
plunged in a slight hot-bed, which has the effect 
of developing many latent buds, which produce 
flowers and carry on the supply until April. 
This is an exhausting plan, and one we only 
practise with our old plants, but by practising 
it we are never without a supply of Bouvardia 
blooms duriDg the winter and spring seasons — 
W. I. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


HANDSOME EVERGREEN SHRUBS. 
Hardy evergreen shrubs at no time appear to 
greater advantage than in winter, and if a garden 
is to maintain its character for cheerfulness at 
that season, the handsomest of the hardy ever- 
greens must be freely planted. Allow me, there¬ 
fore, to call attention to a few which, althoogh 
well known, are worthy of a prominent position 
in all gardons whether large or small. The fiat 
I shall name is 

The El.eagnus —Of this there are two varie¬ 
ties known to me: one golden, the other varie¬ 
gated with silver. In all respects they are of 
equal merit; with us in the west of England 
they are perfectly hardy, and adapt themselves 
to any soil or situation. In growth they ate 
moderately vigorous, forming handsome bushev 
about 6 feet high, and there is a degree of 
brightness abcut them that renders them very 
pleasing, especially when in the form of single 
specimens on Grass, a purpose for which they are 
eminently suitable where stiff formality is not 
required. They are also very suitable for the 
foregrounds of shrubbery borders. To me these 
plants never look better than in winter; the in¬ 
creased moisture and reduced light of the 
autumn months appear to bring up their colours 
much better than duriDg summer. In point of 
colour the golden variety in our sandy soil will 
even compare favourably in winter with some of 
the best Crotons of our stoves. So distinct is the 
shade of yellow, that we cut the young shoots for 
house decoration rather freely in winter,and find 
them most valuable, as the stiff and leathery 
character of the leaves enables them to endure 
the heated air of warm rooms without deteriora¬ 
tion for a week or more ; not uofrcquently they 
have to do duty even longer than that, and then 
seem bright and fresh compared with many other 
subjecte. 

Garrya elliptica.— Although this is oftener 
met with than the Elreagnns, it is by no means 
so much planted as its merits deserve; for it 
must I think be admitted that this Garrya is a 
winter flowering evergreen par excellence. In 
character of growth it resembles the Elaragnu.s 
but in appearance it is altogether distinct, and 
when early frosts are not too severe to injure 
its flowers, the long tasselated spikes that droop 
so gracefully are to my mind particularly refresh¬ 
ing. Like the preceding, we also cut the Garrya 
pretty freely for indoor decoration. These two 
plants and some flowering branches of Lauros- 
tinus tastefully arranged with a few brigbf 
flowers in a large vase make no mean ornarneD' 
on a dull day in the month of December, fie 
find no difficulty in growing the Garrya in any 
kind of soil or situation, but its proper place is 
no doubt in the front line of a choice shrubbery 
border. It is, probably, quite hardy even in the 
north of England ; here, in the west, the severe-' 
winters do not injure it. The proper time for 
transplanting this plant I consider to be the 
month of April. 

Osman thus ilicifolius. — There are two 
varieties of this shrub, one dwarfer than the 
other, but of both there are white variegated 
varieties, and in appearance their leaves are very 
similar to those of a H oily. In the west of 


Nov. 24. 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


433 


England they grow vigorously, and are very 
suitable for small beds or for the front lines of 
shrubberies. Where the soil is heavy, it is a 
good plan to see that the station for the plant 
is well drained, and that about one-third of peat 
earth is added to the soil. Though hardy in the 
west, I cannot say for certain that they will 
prove to be so in the northern districts of the 
kingdom. 


very much struck with the beauty of C. Wheeled 
and C. Simmonsi, both as regards the habit of 
growth and the bright glossy red berries, which 
were very thickly set upon plants from 4 feet 
to 6 feet high and as much through. It is to be 
regretted they are not better known, for they 
are deserving of a place in every garden — 
G. J. 


plenty of good manure, is window plants, either 
indoors or out, they are, when grown well in pots, 
among the best of subjects for the purpose. The 
annexed illustration represents a fine plant of 
Acanthus spinosus growing in a border at Pens- 
hurat. 


FRUIT. 



Holly Golden CJueen.— Although this 
Holly may be well known, 1 am persuaded that 
its character as a decorative object, when grown 
in the shape of a single specimen on Grass 
and under favourable conditions, is not so 
much appreciated as it should be. Several speci¬ 
mens of it hereabouts grown in this way are 
noble examples of what this Holly is capable of 
becoming when it has sufficient room for 
proper development, but in crowded shrubberies 
it has no chance of showing its true character. 
To obtain well-developed examples of it it is 
necessary that the soil should be of good depth 
and not of a calcareous 
character, and plenty of 
room must be allowed 
the plant on all sides for 
the branches to have 
light and air. A well- 
formed plant should also 
be selected for planting 
in the first instance, and 
then it will be best to 
leave it alone and let it 
grow in its own way. It 
requires time, no doubt, 
to secure plants of such 
fine growth as those to 
which I have alluded, 
but when once obtained 
they are at all times, 
both in winter and sum¬ 
mer, very striking ob¬ 
jects. J.C.C. 


Ivy as a seaside 
plant—In this locality 
we are unable to grow 
Conifers and many beau¬ 
tiful trees and shrubs 
that succeed in more in¬ 
land situations; the vio- 
lentgales, highlycharged 
with saline particles, pre¬ 
clude the possibility of 
getting them up to any 
great height, and close 
to the coast owners are 
glad to avail themselves 
of anything that will 
keep green and healthy. 

Happily, we have in the 
common Ivy a plant 
that adapts itself to al¬ 
most any sort of position, 
and when allowed to 
grow unpruned for many 
years, treatment under 
which it acquires an ar¬ 
borescent form, it is a 
really beautiful object 
both in winter and sum¬ 
mer, but especially in 
winter. Many old seaside buildings are now really 
beautiful objects, solely from being overgrown 
with Ivy, lately covered with heads of yellow¬ 
ish green flowers, and later on we shall have black, 
shining berries, that will play an important 
part in our Christmas decorations. On inhabited 
booses Ivy is usually kept closely clipped, and 
consequently its beauty is only that of a fine 
foliaged plant; but on any sort of elevated 
structure where it can grow in a natural manner, 
Ivy is beautiful both as a flowering and berry¬ 
bearing plant. Anyone desirous of propagating 
Ivy will find this the best time of the year for 
doing so. Get strong young shoots and insert 
them firmly in soil in a partially shaded position, 
in which they will root readily; when struck 
they may either be planted out finally where 
they are intended to grow, or if required to be in 
readiness for any emergency they may be kept 
in pots, with their shoots tied up to single s'akos, 
or trained on temporary trellises.—G. T. S. 

Ootoneaaters. —What lovely shrubs the 
large berried Cotoneasters are at this season 
«{ the year. While recently visiting some gar- 
lens in the neighbourhood- of*Wimbledon, I was 


Late-keeping Grapes —That the Black 
Hamburgh is the best for general purposes there 
can be no question, but being a thin-skinned 
variety it is impossible to keep it in really good 
condition far into the winter months, for as soon 
as the damp, foggy days of November come in, 
the berries begin to turn mouldy and decay, and 
it is only in the very best constructed houses, free 
from drip, that any of the thin-skinned sorts can 
be kept until Christmas without showing a great 
percentage of mouldy berries. I find, after re¬ 
peated trials, that the best of all kinds for 
supplying the winter months are the following, 
that if grown in a small 
compartment heated 
enough to ensure tho¬ 
rough ripening, and a 
light, buoyant atmos¬ 
phere, will beof far more 
service than double the 
quantity of early kinds. 
First on the list of sorts 
that really do keep well 
I should place Lady 
Downes Seedling, a va¬ 
riety that bears well on 
the spur system of train¬ 
ing, producing fine sym¬ 
metrical bunches that 
seldom fail to coloor as 
black as Sloes. It is fre¬ 
quently stated that this 
sort requires a lot of 
fire-heat to make it set 
well, but this is a mis¬ 
take, as lhave quantities 
of this kind set as thickly 
as could possibly be with¬ 
out any aid from fire- 
heat at all until they 
began to colour their 
fruit in August. Gros 
Colmar is a very fine, 
handsome Grape, with 
berries as large as Plums. 
It fruits freely on the 
spur system for a few 
j ears, but the best re¬ 
sults are obtained by 
training in young rods 
to replace the old ones 
removed after two or 
three year*’fruitirg. It 
needs very severe thin¬ 
ning of the berries, as 
they swell np so large 
that unless they have 
plenty of space the ber¬ 
ries crowd and crush each 
other. It makes a very 
striking dish of fruit in 
Christmas desserts, and 
although not equal in 
quality to the thin-skinned summer kinds, 
is well worthy a place as a winter Grape. 
Black Alicante is one of the handsomest Grapes 
in cultivation, bearing well on the spur system, 
and the bunches are well shouldered and very 
highly coloured, the berries being like Black 
Muscats. It succeeds well with the above men¬ 
tioned sorts, and is a most desirable Grape for 
late use. Calabrian Kaisin is a good late-keep¬ 
ing white Grape, and makes a fitting companion 
to the above black sorts. It is a very strong 
grower, and produces bunches several pounds in 
weight, and keeps plump and fresh until 
February. Muscat of Alexandria ia undoubtedly 
the best flavoured Grape for late keeping of tbo 
whole list, and may be grown to great perfection 
in any light, airy, well-ventilated vinery, with 
far less heat than is generally stated to be ne¬ 
cessary. I have at present a fine crop in a house 
with only one flow and return (3-inch) pipe, or 
just enough to keep the frost out, so that keep¬ 
ing up high temperatures is out of the question 1 
Yet, as regards setting and regularity of crop, 
the most approved range of temperature could 
not show better result*,—J smebGhoom, Gntpnrf. 

UfiJIVLis jl I T Ui ILLII^JUI I 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


BEAR’S BREECHES. 

(ACANTHUSES.) 

These are hardy herbaceous perennials, but bo 
distinct in habit of growth, noble foliage, and 
uncommon form of flower-spikes, that for orna¬ 
mental gardening they are well qualified to 
rank aloDg with the finest sub-tropical plants; 
indeed, with us the> have to do duty in such 
positions, and generally come in for at least as 
large a share of admiration a9 the tender sub¬ 
tropical plants themselves that can only be raised 
at a large expenditure of time and money. 
TakiDg this fact iato account, it will be teen how 


Acanthus spinosus In bloom In mixed border. Sketched in August. 

desirable it is that as much use as possible 
should be made of such plants, in order to ob¬ 
viate to a proportionate extent the use of tender 
and short-lived ones. We grow two kinds of 
j Acanthus only,viz., A. latifolius and A. mollis, 

| but A. spinosus is also a fine kind. They are 
I easily propagated by seed oi division. Seeds sown 
I in light loam quickly germinate in a warm house, 
i and if sown in August will make large plants 
for putting out early in May. If propagated by 
division the old plants should be lifted after 
flowering, or in spring cut into medium-sized 
pieces with an edging iron, and at once planted 
in their permanent positions. Either variety 
makes a noble plant for lawn planting, and 
when thoroughly established in such spots, 
there are no plant's that require so little atren- 
j tion or produce better effects. They make good 
marginal plants in beds round tall-growing sub- 
| tropicals, but from such spots they generally 
have to be moved annually—treatment which 
they dislike. They are essentially permanent 
plants, and should therefore be given positions 
accordingly, consisting of thoroughly prepared 
soil, which should be stiffishloam enriched with 
















434 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Nov. 24, 1883. 


Standard Gooseberries and Car- 
rants.—One of the greatest difficulties which 
attend dwarf bush fruits is that of preserving 
them against the attacks of birds when ripe, and 
one cannot but feel surprised that the greater 
facilities which standard trees offer for so doing 
should not induce fruit growers to plant them 
more freely. Raised on stems some 3 feet high, 
the fruit is more easily gathered and the extir¬ 
pation of insect pests facilitated. However 
carefully dwarf trees may be netted, it is almost 
a matter of impossibility to exclude the feathered 
tribe, the blackbird especially, who is sure sooner 
or later to discover a weak point in the defence. 
In the case of standards, if the net, when brought 
under the head of the tree, is gathered together 
and tied to the stem, the most artful and deter¬ 
mined bird in existence will be baffled. I think, 
too, the fruit keeps better onjstandards. It will, 
moreover, ,be evident that the standard form as 
applied to these fruits has other advantages 
than those above cited. Thus, for instance, 
where hardy flowers are grown for cut bloom 
there will be space and light for them between 
the trees. Christmas Roses, Violets, Primroses, 
bulbous-rooted plants, such as Daffodils, Hya¬ 
cinths, Ac., would find comfortable quarters 
there, many of them being more happy in the 
partial shade they would get thus situated than 
in the open. Herbs, too, of many kinds, especi¬ 
ally Tarsley, may be grown there, thus occupy¬ 
ing the ground to the best advantage. It is 
obvious that this cannot be done where these 
fruits are grown in the ordinary, manner. In 
Germany standard Gooseberries are much in 
favour, and some nurserymen snpply them 
grafted, but whether on a nearly allied species, 
as is often done in America, or merely on a 
strong-growing variety, I do not know, but in 
any case grafted plants would be preferable. 
At the same time, it lies within the reach of 
everyone to easily form both standard Goose¬ 
berries and Currants.—J. C. B. 

Pitmaston Duchess Pear.— This is un¬ 
questionably one of the handsomest of Pears, 
being much more perfect in outlinethanitsname- 
sake, the old Duchesse d'Angouleme. I also find 
it to be more prolific and to succeed better as an 
open bush or pyramid than that variety, and I 
believe thatit would make a good standard were 
it not for the great weight of the fruit. When 
the latter are well grown they will average 1 lb. 
each, and therefore are liable to be blown of, and 
so much bruised as to be worthless. One of the 
great merits of the fruit is the beautifully clear 
yellow colour which it puts on when ripe. I have 
heard it remarked that the flavourof this Pear is 
not equal to that of the old Duchess, but this is 
in my opinion a matter of taste. Pears are like 
Melons as regards flavour; they requiro to be 
eaten at the proper stage of ripeness, and it is 
only by experience that one is able to catch the 
exact time when the flavour is at its best. Seme 
Pears have a much longer season of usefulness 
than others, and for this reason tender-fleshed 
kinds like Pitmaston Duchess should not be grown 
in larger quantities in private gardens than will 
satisfy the demand ; but as a market Pear I feel 
sure that it must become very popular. It is 
one of the few sorts that can compare favour¬ 
ably as regards size with the produce of the 
Channel Islands. It makes handsome trees on 
the Pear stock, but on the Quince it is more fitted 
for cordons—at least, such is my experience.— 
G. H. 

Fan-trained fruit trees.— Taken in all 
its bearings, the fan system of training fruit 
trees on walls or trellises is undoubtedly the 
best for general purposes, and more especially 
for amateur cultivators, who have not had much 
experience as regards pruning and training, for 
supposing a young tree of any kind is bought in 
from the fruit tree nursery, it is already formed 
in the five or seven shoot fan. The tree should 
be carefully planted in deeply cultivated soil, 
bnt it is advisable not to nail or fasten the shoots 
too tightly the first year, for until the soil has 
settled down firmly, there is danger of the tree 
getting greatly injured at the root by being hung 
up by the ties as the soil settles, but after a 
year’s growth the shoots may safely be fastened 
loosely to the wall or trellis, and after this the 
main thing is to see that the centre, or most 
erectly placed shoots, do not monopolise too great 
a share of sap, to the detriment of the lower and 

e main shoots 
to^the lower 


parts of the wall, keeping the bottom of the 
wall well covered with bearing wood, and the 
centre of the tree open ; the reverse of this is 
too often the case, the centre shoots being 
allowed to rush up to the top of the wall, when 
the shoots they make are cut off annually, being 
gross and watery, instead of wiry twig-like 
shoots that always produce fruit blossoms plen¬ 
tifully. Now that the leaves have fallen, is the 
best time to unfasten any trees requiring such 
attention, and bring them down on both sides 
by fastening the main shoots at regular inter¬ 
vals so as to allow the side spray to be regularly 
laid in. A fan-trained tree should resemble an 
expanded fan when fully formed.—J. Groom, 
Gosport. 

Lifting old Gooseberry bushes — 

Gooseberry bushes, like Apricots, often die off 
piecemeal, and that without any apparent cause. 
They are grown on the restrictive system, and 
while cultivators prune yearly, the roots are left 
untouched. They, therefore, fill the bush with a 
superabundance of sap, producing wood that 
cannot be ripened, and the subsequent mutilation 
is an agent of destruction. It is well to lift 
over-luxuriant growing bushes carefully and 
replant them in well prepared soil in which fruit 
trees have never grown before ; lay the roots out 
flatly after cutting off any which seem decaying; 
cover them with a few inches of soil, and finish 
with a good mulching of farmyard manure 
(where soils are dry and gritty I prefer cow 
manure), which may, for appearance sake, be 
covered with a little soil. By this practice the 
necessity of pruning is greatly reduced, and the 
bushes produce the best of fruit, while dying off 
is obviated. I have adopted this practice with 
bushes often which appeared hardly worthy of 
notice, and the best results have been realised. 
We are now operating on large numbers of old 
Currants, Gooseberries, and Apples, which we 
cannot afford to throw away. Many of them 
must have been planted more than half a cen¬ 
tury. With a number of the worst of the 
Gooseberries we intend forming a hedge, and 
such a barrier, say from 1 feet to 5 feet high, few 
will attempt to force their way through, and it 
is possible that quantities of green fruit will be 
produced on this hedge which will be serviceable 
in the kitchen —M. T. 

10576.— Fruit for market —When one is 
about to plant an orchard for profit the first 
consideration should be the question of fruitful¬ 
ness. No variety that has not this essential 
requisite should be allowed a place in it. 
Beauty of habit, vigour of growth, and exemp¬ 
tion from disease in the tree, with excellency of 
flavour, beauty of form and colour, and high 
keeping qualities in its fruit are highly desirable 
qualities in themselves, but are of no avail if the 
variety lacks the one attribute first mentioned. 
An unproductive fruit tree is worse than useless, 
for it impoverishes and encumbers ground that 
could otherwise be turned to good account. The 
home grower can never hope to supplant the 
foreign producer, whilst the general state of 
fruit cultivation in our own country remains in 
the state that it is at present. Look where we 
will, how seldom do we see fruit culture that 
gives satisfactory results. In a village where I 
once lived there were many fruit trees in the 
cottagers' gardens, but few of them bore much 
fruit. But there was one honourable exception. 
In a garden in the centre of the village (which 
was once the property- of a jobbing mason who 
is now dead) the fruit trees are nearly every 
year loaded with fruit. I have never seen 
another collection of trees that have borne so 
constantly and so well. The son told me that 
the way his father acquired this collection was 
whenever he saw a tree that appeared to be 
remarkable as a good variety, he would, when 
the season came round, beg a graft from it of 
the owner. He was often at work on gentle¬ 
men’s establishments, when he would, if it was 
the fruiting season and opportunity offered,havea 
look at the fruit trees. If any one of his acqui¬ 
sitions did not prove satisfactory, he headed it 
down and worked on some other kind. There 
are two classes of sure-beering fruits—the local 
and the universal. The latter class flourishes 
and is productive over a large area; the former 
exists as such, either because it is not known 
beyond the locality, or that it cannot be profit¬ 
ably grown elsewhere. Before one adopts a local 
variety that only does well in the neighbour¬ 
hood, he should be sure that the same conditions 


of soil and climate exist in his orchard as is pre¬ 
sent in the spot where it is known to succeed. 
Sometimes where a stratum crops up to the sur¬ 
face there is a wide difference in the soil only 
within a few feet. Not many miles from where 
I reside is a village, through which runs a rivu¬ 
let. About a hundred yards on each Bide of 
the stream is a fine alluvial soil; to the right 
(nearly on the same level) is a stiff loam, whilst 
to the left rises a hill, the surface of which is a 
poor red sand, presenting in one village or 
neighbourhood a difference in climate and three 
distinctly different kinds of soil. The follow¬ 
ing is a list of universal snre-bearing fruits, 
which are not only the best bearers in cultiva¬ 
tion, but many of which are the best in other 
respects: Apples—Beauty of Kent, Blenheim 
Orange, Catshead, Cellini, Court Pendu Plat, 
Dumelow’s Seedling, Ecklinville Seedling, Haw- 
thornden, New Hawthomden, Irish Peach, Kerry 
Pippin, Keswick Codlin, Carlisle Codlin, Lord 
Suffield, Hank’s Codlin, Devonshire Quarrenden, 
Skyehouse Russet, Stirling Castle, Warner's 
King, Emperor Alexander, Tower of Glamis, 
Prince Albert, Gladstone, Annie Elizabeth, Court 
of Wick, Duchess of Oldenburg, and Lemon 
Pippin. Pears—Althorpe Cassane, Beurre Bose, 
Beurre d’Amanlis, Beurrd de Capianmont, 
Beurrfi Diel.Beurrd Ranee,Cbaumontel. Duchesse 
d’Angoulfime, Glou Morceau, Gansel’s Bergamot, 
Jargonelle, Josephine de Malines, Louise Bonne 
of Jersey, Marie Louise, Ne Plus Meuris, Passe 
Colmar, Williams's Bon Chretien, Winter Nelis. 
Plums—Coe’s Golden Drop, Greengage, Jeffer¬ 
son's, Kirks, Rivero’s Early"' Prolific, Belgian 
Purple, Magnum Bonum, Orleans, Prince of 
Wales, Victoria, and Winesour. If any one of 
the above mentioned varieties should prove, after 
a fair trial, to be unsuitable to the soil of the 
orchard, it should be headed down and regrafted 
with one of the kinds that succeed the best. 
If the tree be cankered, saw off, if possible, be¬ 
low the diseased part.—L. C. K. 

10565.— Planting- Vines. —Where the soil 
is pure clay it must be taken out to the depth of 
from 3 feet to 4 feet. If we bad the border to 
make we should take away two-thirds of the 
clay soil and spread the remainder out thinly 
where it would get thoroughly sweetened and 
pulverised during the winter. The deficiency 
we would make up with any good lighter mould, 
such as loam, road scrapings, or rather parings, 
and river sand, with a little thoroughly-rotted 
dung. If you have soil of a lighter description 
in the garden yon might use some of that. Mix 
the various ingredients well together and plant 
about April. The clay should be dug out in as 
big lumps as possible, as it sweetens better thus. 
Exposed to frost and wind, it will crumble to 
pieces by the time it is needed.—J. C. B. 

10608.— Treatment of Vines —A vine 
that probably covers the roof of a green¬ 
house ought to bear very much more than six 
bunches of GrapeB annually. Before you use 
fowl’s dung for a sorface dressing it ought to be 
mixed with ten times its bulk of good loam. 
Fowls' manure is as strong as guano. Probably 
the system of pruning is to blame. Many ama¬ 
teurs continue to cut back the Vines to old 
spurs, and unless the Vines are very vigorous,they 
cease to bear freely. Some of the old rods ought 
to be cut out and young ones trained up in their 
places.—J. D. E. 

Althorpe Craa sane Pear.— I find this 

I’ear to be a sure bearer and of very fair quality. 
The fruit is small and pyriform, the flesh white, 
with alight pale green skin, very juicy and sweet, 
and, what is still more valuable, it is always good. 
It is not like some other Pears, good one year 
and indifferent the next. I do not know whether 
or not my experience as regards the growth of 
the tree is singular, but with me it does not grow 
freely, a circumstance which I have often re¬ 
gretted. We grow it on a west wall, and it is 
probable in another position it might grow better 
with us. The fruit ripens i n November.— J. C. C., 
Taunton. 

10609. —Planting a Peach-house.— Five tree* win 
be a sufficient number for a house 51 feet long, riant 
them Inside, and have the walls built on arches, so thst 
the roots may run outside, as the largest proportion ot 
them will the first season. Plant Noblesse, lisle's Karly, 
and Bellcgrade Peaches, I'ilie Apple and Lord Napier 
Nectarines.—J. D. E. 


Tortoises In the winter.—Kindi ssywhatistho 
right shelter and food for a tortoise through the winter. 
It has spent the summer in the kitchen gnrden—P. P. 


raoro horizontally trained ones. T] 
should be gradually Bronght tl 


■i 

I 

s 

J 

i 

i 

■i 

N 

5 

4 



Nov. 24, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


435 


VEGETABLES. 


HOW TO GROW BROCCOLI. 

Where well-selected varieties of Broccoli are 
cultivated, a constant supply can be depended 
upon during the greater part of the winter. It 
comes into use as soon as the autumn crops of 
Cauliflower are finished, and the different 
varieties succeed each other until the first crop 
of early Cauliflowers is fit to cut in May. This 
will, however, depend a good deal upon the 
protection which the Cauliflower plants receive 
iu the spring after being planted out in the open 
borders and the locality in which they are 
growing. Broccoli should be grown in every 
garden provided space can bo spared for it, but 
in small gardens some of the hardier varieties of 
the Brassica family generally have the preference, 
as often in severe winters, if the plants are not 
laid down and a little protection given them, the 
crop will be destroyed. If carefully protected, 
however, it generally winters safely. The soil 
most suitable for Broccoli is a good stiff loam, 
and tine crops mav even be grown upon ground 
inclining to Btitf clay, provided it is well 
drained. Tho plants seldom club at the root if 
grown upon heavy land. But in many cases 
when planted upon light soil the crop will be 
found to be almost a failure through club. 

Culture. —Ground for Broccoli should be 
deeply dug or trenched, working into it plenty 
of rotten manure, for liberal treatment is needed 


making the soil level on which to lay tho plants. 
Both men must then put their spades well 
underneath the roots of the plants opposite the 
opening, turning the plants over upon the soil 
just levelled and pressing them down firmly 
with the foot. The top of the plant must be 
brought down nearly level with the surface of 
the ground ; then cover the stems up to within 
8 inches or 10 inches of the top leaves. Strip off 
the old leaves before laying is commenced; lay 
the second row down the same as the first, and 
thus continue until the plantation is wholly laid 
down. Cover the crowns of the plants, which 
should, if possible, be laid towards the north, 
with some dry straw or Fern which will protect 
them. A practice sometimes used by growers is 
to lift the plants in the autumn, and lay them 
in some spare corner of the garden, where they 
can be protected in sharp weather. By having 
them close together a less quantity of covering 
material is required, but by this plan the heads 
will be found to be smaller than those of plants 
laid in the open quarters. When the different 
sorts are forming their heads, look over the 
plantation daily, and ent those which have come 
to maturity, and store them in a cool cellar, 
where they will keep good for several days. 

Varieties. —The followingwill ensure a-good 
supply from autumn till early in the summer, 
when Cauliflowers may be had, viz , Waloheren, 
one of the best white kinds for early use ; White 
Cape, a sort which succeeds the Waloheren, and 
which produces heads of a fine white colour; 


---» | wtuuu pouuuoo ucavta ui uuo nmio vaiiuui . 

to produce a profitable return. Ground which ^ Purple Cape, a hardy variety, producing large 


has been cropped with late Celery will be found 
to be a good rotation; planting two crops in 
succession of any of the Ilrassicas upon the 
same pieoe of ground should always, if possible, 
be avoided. Ground cropped with early Potatoes 
is often planted with Broccoli. Two sowings of 
seed should be made, the first iu the second 
week in April and another the last week in that 
month. A piece of deep rich soil should be 
selected for the seed beds upon an open piece of 
ground facing the south or west. Before sowing 
give the ground a good dressing with soot and 
lime, and, if at hand, some wood ashes may be 
used. Rake the compost well into the soil before 
sowing ; this helps to prevent the young plants 
from clubbing, which often occurs in gardens in 
which no precaution is taken to guard against it. 
Sow in beds 4 feet wide, leaving 12-inch alleys 
between them; sow broadcast, and rake the 
seeds with an iron rake; then a portion of the 
soil may be taken ont of the alley and spread 
over the beds, again raking the surface level; 
now stretch the line and cut the edges straight, 
when the beds will be finished. Or the seeds 
may be sown in drills half an inch deep, and 
from 3 inches to 1 inches asunder, covering in 
the seeds and raking the surface level as before. 
When the plants have made from three to five 
leaves prick them off into a piece of good rich 
soil in as open a position as possible, and winch 
has been deeply dug and had a good dressing of 
soot and lime, watering them occasionally in dry 
weather. If the plants are large enough, the 
first plantation should be made early in June, 
using some of the earliest varieties in order to 
succeed the latest crop of Veitch’s Autumn 
Giant Cauliflower. Plant in rows from 2 feet to 
■_\i feet apart and 18 inches plant from plant. 

Another plantation may be made towards the 
end of June and the main crop early in July, 
planting the same distance apart as for the early 
crop., Hoe frequently between the rows to keep 
down weeds and the surface of the ground open. 
When the plants have got well established, a 
dressing of some artificial manure may be scat¬ 
tered between the rows, hoeing it deeply into 
the ground ; or watering with liquid manure 
from the farmyard will be found to he beneficial. 
[When the plants have become sufliciently large, 
ilraw some soil round their stems to keep them 
ready, after which they will require but little 
tention until late in the autumn, when they 
Quid be laid down to protect them from the 
■st. When the stumps get frozen through they 
as a rule, rendered useless, but by 
Laying down the plants before sharp 
;sts set in, one is almost sure to preserve the 
• p. It only takes a short time to lay down a 
lie breadth of plants, and any ordinary garden 
■Itourer can perform the work when shown how 
£Ciet about it. Laying can, however, be better 
by two men than one. At one side of a 
>* :> Illation an opening should-ba taken out wfth 
e \ sji.de a few inches in froit of/the ti 


purple heads; Snow’s Winter White, a kind 
which produces fine, large, white heads in De¬ 
cember and January; Veitch’s Self-protecting, 
a fine sort which should be largely grown, com¬ 
ing into bearing, as it does, early in the new 
year; Carter's Mammoth, a variety which pro¬ 
duces large, white, and finely-flavoured heads; 
Leamington, one of the best of late Broccoli 
and hardy; Adams’ Early White, a good grower, 
producing heads large and compact; Knight's 
Protecting, furnishing heads well protected by 
the leaves, large, compact, and of good flavour ; 
Career’s Summer, a fine, late variety; Cattell’s 
Eclipse, one of the most useful of Brocolli, com¬ 
ing into bearing before early Cauliflowers are 
fit to cat, and very hardy ; and Carter’s Cham¬ 
pion, one of the latest and best varieties in cul¬ 
tivation, and one which cannot be too highly 
recommended. W. C. 


10628.— Large vegetables. —Are you at 
variance with the cook or butler ? If so, the 
reason your vegetables are not accepted is 
obvious. They may, however, be large and 
coarse. The Turnips yon can remedy by fre¬ 
quent sowings or delaying the thinning out, 
doing only a part at a time. I resort to this plan 
for my exhibition Turnips, and find that some 
are ready for the show when others getlarge and 
burst. They should be about 3 inches in 
diameter. With regard to Cauliflowers, those 
left in the seedbed too long will decidedly be 
smaller than others planted ont at the right 
time. You might try planting out at different 
times. Cabbages I have treated in the same 
way. When nearly ready, shake them almost 
ent of the ground. Any kind of garden 
vegetable thus stirred at the roots will not come 
to that degree of perfection that they would i f 
left undisturbed, and inconsequence grow much 
smaller. My Leeks this year were taken from 
the bed and laid in for a week by the heels 
(through mistake). They are small enough for 
anything. Get seeds of small kinds, and above 
everything don’t quarrel with the cook. Some 
cooks have very absurd notions about vegetables, 
and reject all vegetables beyond a certain size. 
—J. N. W._ 

Ducks In gardens as elugdestroyers. 

—I have several times seen recommended the 
keeping of ducks in gardens as an antidote to 
the slug pest. We have an enclosure of about 
twenty rods, in the centre of which (occupying 
about one third of the space) is an ornamental 
pond. In this enclosure ducks have been kept 
severed years, a part of which (about two rods) is 
under cultivation, over which the ducks have 
always free run. To-day we were digging the 
plot just mentioned, when I notioed all the pota¬ 
toes that were turned out were more or less slug 
eaten. The ducks stood by watching for 
the earth-worms that were being turned up 
as the digging proceeded, and which they 


eagerly devoured. I threw to them three slugs 
that I saw on the ground—two white ones 
and a black one—but they would not touch 
them. When I was a boy, a number of fowls 
all the year round, and ducks in the summer 
time, had free access to every part of my father’s 
garden, but slugs were quite a pest especially the 
small black kind. I used sometimes to throw 
some to the fowls and ducks, to see if they would 
eat them, but they never would. But a few years 
ago, when I was in the habit of going ont early 
in the morning to catch slugs, I gave them to my 
neighbours fowls, which were always kept pent 
up, they ate them readily. It seems as if when 
ducks and fowls get free run, that they either get 
surfeited of slugs, or that they get other animal 
food which they prefer.—L. C. K. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

10398.—Slow combustion Btoves.— 

In answer 10 “ J. T. F. ” as to further informa¬ 
tion concerning my stove, it is simply placed in 
one corner of the greenhouse—not with tho 
draught door facing door of house ; that would 
make no difference when the door is closed. I 
have two round elbows to flue—one connecting 
the stove to 4 feet of piping, the other to top of 
pipe to make the exit from house. As this leaves 
the opening sideways, I have fastened a large 
sheet of tin over the mouth to prevent the wind 
blowing the fumes down the flue. All the 
joints in the piping should be well stopped with 
white lead. I burn the cinders from house fires 
mixed with anthracite coal and sometimes a 
little coke, both broken about the size of Walnuts. 
It is imperative that anthracite coal is used, 
any other will result in failure. The stove only 
requires refilling once in twelve hours, and if 
the dust is well raked out each time it may be 
kept alight for a week. Thus managed, the cost 
of fuel is not above lid. per day. My house is 
14 feet by 5 feet. I have watched with interest 
the correspondence in this paper on heating 
greenhouses, and it seems as if I am unusually 
successful with my stove. I should be glad to 
hear of others suceessf ul experience. Last year 
I kept over 200 Geranium cuttings, and during 
the winter strnck Petunias, Lobelias, Fuchsias, 
and Geraniums over the stove. If I am suc¬ 
cessful with such a simple apparatus, why should 
others fail 1 —J. C., Leek, Clapton. 

10375.—Weeds on walks.—Salt will de¬ 
stroy weeds if applied in dry weather; but care 
should be taken not to place it so near to trees 
and live edgings as to in jure their roots. Garden 
walks often become weedy through allowing 
the weeds on adjacent beds and borders to ripen 
and distribute their seeds, the walks, of course, 
receiving their share. Weeds, whether on walks 
or beds, should always be destroyed in the early 
stages of their growth, and thus by putting in 
the proverbial stitch in time, save not only nine, 
bnt nine hundred. Many people imagine that 
after the crops have been cleared off a few 
weeds can do no harm, and so leave them to 
flourish on unmolested ; but it should be borne 
in mind that besides the untidy appearance 
they create, some of the commonest kinds, 
such as Groundsel, Chickweed, and the annual 
Meadow-grass (Poa annua), continue to bloom 
and ripen their seeds in the mild weather of the 
winter and early spring months. Wage constant 
war, therefore, against such garden enemies at 
all seasons of the year.—J. Martin. 

10583.— Frame for Calceolarias.— You 
require no manure in the soil for Calceolaria 
cuttings. Place in the bottom of the frame a 
layer of crocks, or some similar material, to act 
as drainage, but do not nse coal ashes or cinders 
for the purpose, as when the roots reach these 
the plants never prosper. Spread over the crocks 
about 0 inches of fine mellow loam, mixed with 
a little leaf-mould and drift-sand, making It 
moderately firm. If loam is not procurable, 
good garden soil mixed with sand will answer 
the purpose. Dibble in the cuttiDgs at once 3 
inches or 4 inches apart, pressing the soil close 
to the base of each, and give a light watering 
with a fine-rosed watering-can. Keep the frame 
close for a fortnight, after which the cuttings 
may be gradually exposed, and the lights entirely 
removed during the prevalence of mild weather, 
but protection will, of ocnrse.be required should 
severe frost, occnr,—J. Martin. 





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Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





Nov. 24, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


437 


SiebolJL I have hud one In my garden (or some years, 
and this autumn, for the first time, it has thrown out a 
green berry similar to an unripe Blackberry.—E. C. 

10672,—Vines for untreated house.— Having had 
a house nut up with the intention of growing Grapes, I 
should like to know which Is the best sort of Vine to 
plant. The house faces south, and is very high, and it 
will uot lie heated.—G. D. T. P. 

16673 —Tuberoses and other bulbs.—Is the 
Tuberose a flower that can he grown in a cool house? 
Which is the best sort, double Pearl or Double African? 
With what other bulbs may It be classed for treatment? 
-J. H. SL 

1067 k—Pruning fruit trees.—Will any reader kindly 
recommend a good book on the pruning of fruit trees of 
all kinds? It must be a plain, practical work, suitable for 
an amateur, who does not know much about it.—M. T. T. 

10675—Chinese strafting. — Referring to query 
10600 tn last week’s Garden [NO, will 11 Dublo " kindly 
explain what Chinese grafting Is? I never remember 
hearing the term used before —W. B. B. 

10676 —Planting* Onions for seed.—Will some¬ 
one give me particulars of plsntlng Onions for seed? The 
garden In which they would be planted Is about one mile 
from the eea in Yorkshire.—E. F. 

10677.—Budding Hawthorne—Can the double 
ITawthoms, pink and white, he budded on the common 
Thorn ? If so, will some reader kindly say when and 
how It should be done.—SILICA. 

10678.—Clerodendron Balfourl.—Will someone 
he so good as to give me a few hints on the treatment of 
Clerodendron Balfourl. I want to bloom it In August.— 
AMATEUR. 

10679.—Tuberoses —Is it correct that Tuberoses will 
ordinarily only flower once in England ? If so, can any 
means be adopted to cause them to continue flowering 7 
-B. C. P. 

10630.—Kainlt.— Can anyone tell me the chemical 
c imposition of kalnlt, and Its value as a fertiliser for 
vegetables, fruits, and flowers, also can it be obtained In 

London ?— Ccltor. 

10681.—Plantain Lilies.—Will anyone tell me how to 
manage the Plantain Lily (Funkia) through the winter ? 
I have several in pots. Must they be taken indoors and 
kept dry ?—E. A. T. 

10682.—Plants for gas lighted rooms.—I would 
be obliged if someone would kindly Inform me what 
plants and ferns may be kept without injury in a gas- 
lighted room, sire SO feet by 20 feet.—M rs. 3. 

UKj-S —Bermuda Lily.—How shall I manage the 
Bermuda Lily for the winter? Should 16 be treated like 
L. auratum?—E. A. T. 

1061-1 —Sowing IrlB seed.—Having saved a quan¬ 
tity of seed from two different varieties of Iris, I should 
like instructions for sowing, &c.— R. 3. M., Renfrew. 

10CS5 —Climbers for north-east wall —will any 
cue inform me what evergreen climbers will flower and 
do well on a north-east wall ?—Hants. 

10656.—Spanish Iris in pots.—Are these suitable 
for pot culture ? If so, what sired pots should be used, 
and how many tubers to each pot?—I ris. 

10637.—Covering Vine borders.—what Is the 
best material for covering outside Vine borders to keep 
off the winter rains ?—3. E. H. 

1H68S —Seeds of Pine apples.—Can any reader 
tell me if I can get the seeds of Pine-apples, and If so, 
where ?—G. D. T. P. 

10689—Coal dust for gardens —Is sla k ooal 
(coal dngt) of any use for the garden or land?-Mrs. P. B. 

10690.—Hyacinths.—At what stage of growth should 
Hyacinths be removed from dark to light?—W. N. C. 


BEES. 


SEASONABLE NOTES. 

Packing andremoving hives. —In removing 
established stocks of bees great care is neces¬ 
sary in so packing them as to avoid the breaking 
away and falling of the combs, such a calamity 
being almost certain destruction to the bees. 
In preparing straw hives for travelling they are 
inverted, and placed in cheese boxes, having 
some hay at the bottom to prevent jarring. 
Before inverting the hive, a little smoke is 
blown into the entrance to drive the bees up 
amongst the combs. The hive is then turned 
up, and coarse sacking or canvas tied over to 
confine the bees, they thus get abundance of 
air and in that respect travel safely. To prevent 
the combs breaking down, a sharp-pointed stick 
is passed through the sides of the hive, so as to 
pierce each comb. If this is done a few days 
before removal, the bees fasten the combs to the 
stick, and so greatly increase their firmness. 
Another good way to keep the combs steady 
and firm is to pneh wedges of crumpled 
newspaper or drapers’ tissue between the 
combs. After smoking the bees a little, the 
hive is turned mouth upwards and a wedge 
of paper, about one inch by four inches, is 
pushed in, end first, between each two combs, as 
tightly as the combs will bear. These wedges 
ire elastic, and so prevent the jarring of the 
tombs. In cool weather, there is not so much 
risk of combs falling, and hives may then be 
aoved with greater safety, the. invjr, ing^cf .tho 


hive not being so necessary. Hives of old tough 
comb, with sticks passed through them, may be 
safely moved, by first nailing them to their 
floor boards, covering the entrance and crown 
hole with perforated zinc, and tying them to 
their boards with cord. The secret of success 
in moving stocks of bees, is the admission of 
plenty of air into the hives. The excitement 
and commotion of the bees on being removed, 
greatly increases the internal heat, so much so, 
that in no kind of hive will newly made combs 
travel safely. In moving bar-frame hives, the 
frames must be fixed quite firmly by notched 
strips of wood nailed to the floor boards, and 
placed at each end of the frames, and the bees 
enclosed in the hive by perforated zinc nailed 
over the entrance, and also over the tops of the 
frames in place of the quilt, the perforated zinc 
being so placed as to allow the bees to pass freely 
between it and the tops of the frames. In this 
way they get more air than they can if the zinc 
be fixed close to the tops of the frames, and 
some of the weight of the bees is thus taken off 
the combs. As soon as the hives arrive at their 
destination, they should be placed where they 
are to stand, the zinc on their tops removed, and 
the quilts and roofs put on, and the entrances 
opened. 

Protection from weather. — The bees 
being now at rest and inactive, having settled 
down for the winter, it is important to see that 
each hive is amply protected from the weather. 
Perfect protection of hives from rain and storms 
should be aimed at in covering them. Roofing 
felt makes very excellent covers for straw hives. 
It is very durable, and impervious to water. 
When new it is stiff and hard, but if warmed it 
can be fitted to the hives. Beneath the outer 
coverings, plenty of warm materials should be 
used. Roofs of bar-frame hives should be ex¬ 
amined and repainted, tarred, or covered with 
felt, where there is any doubt of their being 
perfectly weather proof. Outer cases of wood 
for straw hives are very serviceable, and have the 
appearance of square-frame hives. Where hives 
are in exposed situations, precautions should be 
taken to guard them from the fall force of 
strong winds, or results may be disastrous. 

Clearing floor-boards. —Stocks that have 
sufficient amount of stores to winter upon, and 
are well protected, need but little further atten¬ 
tion beyond the occasional searching of the 
floor-boards with a bent wire for dead bees, and 
thus good service can be rendered. Many a 
good stock has perished for want of this pre¬ 
caution. Bees lake every opportunity of casting 
their dead out of the hive, and oftentimes in 
cold weather they get them only as far as the 
entrance, which, thus becoming blocked, stops 
the ventilation of the hive. The searching-wire 
shonld be thin but strong, and long enough to 
reach all round the floor-board. It should be 
bent at the end, the hook being only of a size to 
permit of easy withdrawal through the entrance 
way. Entrances should be contracted for the 
winter, but in all cases there should be room 
enough for tuo bees to pass, otherwise, when 
one bee is lugging out a dead comrade, there 
will surely be a blockade. S. S. G. 

Boxmorth 


Diseases Of bees. —In his interesting 
article on the above subject in Gardening of 
November 3, “ S. 8. G.,” speaking of foul 
brood, gays it appears to be caused by the brood 
becoming chilled and perishing in the cells, Ac. 
This ideals now exploded, and it is known now 
to be a fungoid growth. Dziergon, in “ Rational 
Bee-keeping,” says of foul brood, "Through the 
studies of Dr. Preuss, Pastor Shiiufeld, and 
other investigators, it has been established that 
the cause of the disease lies in certain fungoid 
growths, only to be seen through the micro¬ 
scope, in certain conditions multiplying enor¬ 
mously, and destructive to the tender organisms 
of the bee grubs.” Professor Cook says, “ There 
is no longer any doubt as to the cause of this 
fearful plague.” It is conclusively shown by 
Drs. Preuss and Shoufeld, of Germany, as the 
result of fungus or vegetable growth. Some of 
the facts connected with foul brood would lead 
ns to think that the germs or spores of this 
fungus can only be conveyed in the honey.— 
D. E. L„ Co. Waterford. 


Vol. L " Gardening ” Is out of print, and we are 
therefore unable to further supply either separate copies 
or bound volumes. 


POULTRY. 


Sasonable notes.—All surplus stock 
should at once be got rid of at any sacrifice. 
Hens which have gone through their second 
laying season, and are not required for stock 
purposes, had better be killed or otherwise dis¬ 
posed of, for keeping them through the winter 
means considerable outlay in food without any¬ 
thing in return, besides which the young stock 
will derive benefit from the additional room. 
All cockerels not required for stock purposes 
should also be removed, as also old cooks past 
utility for breeding purposes. In short, the lees 
the number of old birds kept through the winter 
months, when it is all outlay and no income, the 
larger will be the annual profit. Young pullets 
laying, or about to commence, cannot be too 
well treated, both as regards feeding and 
housing. A good warm meal as Boon after day¬ 
light as possible, seasoned once or twice a week 
with pepper or spice, will not come amiss to 
them. We believe strongly in warm milk also, 
and when the high valne of fresh eggs at this 
time of year be considered, this or any other 
luxury is not thrown away on fowls. Give as 
much good sound grain as they will eat 
just before roosting time, for the nights are 
now long, and a fowl requires something 
to sustain it through so many hours. 
Houses require overhauling. Stop all cracks in 
the walls or sides. Do not stuff straw in, as is 
so commonly done, as it forms a strong hold for 
vermin, but if the house be of wood, nail strips 
of match board inside. Roofs should be seen to 
and made watertight, and if they be covered 
with patent felt, now is a good time to give a 
coat of tar, choosing a dry day for so doing. 
Fowls require some shelter from cold winds and 
wet, independent of the roosting house, therefore 
some kind of shed should be erected in the most 
sheltered spot, no matter how roughly put up. 
Unless this be done the birds will on very cold 
days remain in the roosting house all day, which 
is not desirable by any means. Birds suffering 
from cold should be removed at once to a warm, 
dry place. A cure is much easier to effect if the 
case be taken in hand at once, and not allowed 
to run its course for several days. After nights 
of froBt be sure the birds have water and not ice 
in their fountains.— Andalusian. 

Gall ducks.— In answer to " T. W.’s” Inquiry for 
white call ducks, I can supply him with this year’s birds. 
—Mrs. Humphreys Owen, Glansevern, Garthmyl, Mont¬ 
gomeryshire. 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 

To piokle hams.— If “Poor Cottager” 
will cure his hams as follows, I think he will 
never have to throw another away—at least in 
fifteen years I have never had a bad one, and 
have kept them two years without cooking. 
For hams from 101b. to 12 ib.,rub in Jib. of 
common salt, let it lie twenty-four hours; then 
mix J lb. of treacle, J lb. common salt, 1 oz. 
saltpetre, J oz. of bay "salt, J oz. white ground 
pepper. Rub this mixture well into the ham, 
put it into a pan and turn every twelve hours 
for one month; cover the pan with a cloth. I 
never use wood tubs for any salt meat. At the 
end of four weeks hang the ham up to drain for 
twenty-four hours, and then bang it in a chimney 
where wood is burnt for another month. Con¬ 
fectioners charge fourpence for drying hams and 
sides, but if a “ Poor Cottager ” bakes his own 
bread in a brick oven, he can dry his own hams as 
I do; it takes longer, as the oven is only heated 
once a week, and of coursethehamsmust be taken 
out while the bread is baking or they would be 
cooked. For hams 181bs. to 20Ibs. use half as 
much salt, lco., again; and for 28Ibs. to 301bs. ubb 
double. For sides of bacon rub in lib. of salt, 
leave twenty-fonr hours, then use 21bs. common 
salt, lib. treacle or coarse sugar, 6oz. bay salt, 
3oz. saltpetre, 3oz. sal prunella, and proceed as . 
for as the hams; the quantities vary in the 
same proportion. There is a bone in the ham 
corresponding with that called the “ Pope’s Eye” 
in a leg of mutton which is best removed before 
salting.—A.B.T., East Anglia. 


Tortoises in winter.— Will any reader 
kindly tell me whether a tortoise must be taken 
into the house during winter, or left in the garden 
without any shelter / At present he is lively 
enough, tnd eats grass and the clover m it, and 
drinks water.—I olanthe. 





438 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Nov. 24, 1883. 


DEFINITION OF THE AURICULA. 


The show section of the Auricula is divided 
into four classes or groups, the Alpine Auricula 
forming a class quite distinct from the others. 
There is no doubt but that the Alpines claim a 
distinct parentage, whereas we obtain all the 
classes perhaps from one plant of the show 
section, but we never get an Alpine. 

The queen-edged class comes first; and I 
■wish merely to define a green-edged Auricula— 
not to enter into any discussion as to its merits. 
One person says, “a green-edged Auricula is one 
of the most beautif ul objects in the whole of Flora's 
wide domain.” Another, who is equally com¬ 
petent to judge, says shortly that 11 it is a mon¬ 
strosity.” The Auricula fancier tries to get the 
flowers nearly round. The edge of the pip is 
green, or nearly so; very few flowers have been 
raised without any spots of farina on the edge ; 
but these should be so few in number that the 
edge still appears green. Inside the edge is the 
ground colour; and in some cases it is almost 
black or purple-maroon. I have seen one with 
a violet ground colour, which is a novelty. The 
ground colour is never seen in a compact circular 
ring as in the model Auricula; but the less the 
ground colour juts into or mixes with the edge, 
so much the better. The inner edge next the 
paste iis usually of a more circular form ; but 
even in many esteemed varieties, the ground 
colour is angular. The celebrated variety. 
Booth's Freedom, has an angular paste; Admiral 
Napier, one of Campbell's best green edges, has 
the same fault. The centre, or “ paste,” as it is 
called, is white and coated densely with farina. 
The eye or tube is yellow—bright yellow it 
ought to be, but some celebrated green edges, 
such as Prince of Greens (Frail), and Apollo 
(Beeston), have very pale tubes; and this sadly 
mars their beauty, as Prince of Greenshas a very 
beautiful green edge. The best green-edged 
Auriculas are Colonel Taylor (Leigh), Freedom 
(Booth), Imperator (Litton), Prince of Wales 
(ABhton), Prince of Greens (Frail), Champion 
(Page), Apollo (Beeston), Lovely Ann (Oliver), 
Lycurgus (Smith). 

The gbey edged Auricula is next in order, 
and is distinguished from the green by the edge 
being so thickly dusted with farina, that but 
little of the underneath green tint is seen. In 
other respects this class differs nothing from the 
other. The most perfect Auriculas are found 
in this class. The best are George Lightbody 
(Headly), Lancashire Hero (Lancashire), Com¬ 
plete (Sykes), Alexander Meiklejohn (Kay), 
George Levick (Walker), Richard Headley 
(Lightbody), Ringleader (Kenyon), John Water- 
ston (Cunningham), Dr. Horner (Read). 

The white-edged section comprises some 
novel and distinct varieties, and some of them 
are very greatly esteemed. A few of them, such 
as John Simonite (Walker), does not increase 
freely, and are likely to remain long of great 
value. This class is separated from the grey- 
edged by the greater density of the farina on 
the edge of the flowers. It is laid on so heavily 
in some cases as to be of very great purity. 
Many otherwise good white-edged flowers have 
the farina dusted over the body or ground colour; 
this is a fault from which some of the grey- 
edged varieties is not entirely free. The best 
white edges are John Simonite (Walker),Smiling 
Beauty (Heap), True Briton (Hepworth), Acme 
(Read), Regular (Ashworth), Glory (Taylor), 
Catherina (Summerscales),Ne-plus-ultra (Smith), 
Earl Grosvenor (Lee), Omega (Turner). 

Selfs have one colour only outside of the 
paste. By many people they are more greatly 
esteemed than any of the other classes. The 
usual colours are maroon or purplish-maroOD, 
violet, yellow, and bluish-violet. The best varie¬ 
ties are Pir.arro (Campbell), Blackbird (Spald¬ 
ing), Garibaldi (Pohlman), Mrs. Douglas (Simon¬ 
ite), Chas. J. Ferry (Turner), Ellen Lancaster 
(Pohlman), Duke of Argyle (Campbell), Lord 
Clyde (Lightbody), Othello (Netherwood), Topsy 
(Kay). I have given the names of forty show 
Auriculas in the four classes, and the names are 
placed, as I believe, in the order of their merit. 
Very few really good new varieties are intro¬ 
duced to the public. The most recent of the 
above is Mrs. Douglas (Simonite), a good violet 
self and probably an improvement on Mr. Tur¬ 


ner’s Charles I. Perry. 

The Alpines are divided into two classes, 
those with cream-coloured centres, and those that 
have centres gJL^ bright yellpw. The yellow 
centred sectitjp corjta^ns Uje- nei ‘ 


kst, selection 


or 


good varieties. The edge of the flowers are 
either reddish maroon or plum-coloured; and 
one great point in the eye of the fancier, is that 
the edge should be shaded; that is, lighter at the 
edge than at the centre, whereas a self in the 
show section ought not to be shaded, and this is 
as much insisted upon as that the Apine should 
be shaded. The best varieties are Mrs. Ball, 
A. F. Barron, Bronze Queen, Dear Hart, Diadem, 
Duchess of Connaught, George Lightbody, John 
Ball, John Leech, King of the Belgians, Mar¬ 
chioness of Westminster, Mrs. Dodwell, Mrs. 
Llewellyn, Philip Frost, Slough Rival, Queen 
Victoria, Mrs. Meiklejohn, Selina, Topaz, Sydney, 
William Fowle, and Beatrice. J. Douglas. 


Economical heating of email green¬ 
houses.—Considerable space in this journal 
having of late been occupied with enquiries re¬ 
specting the economical heating of small green¬ 
houses, the following account of the simple and 
effective manner in which a small greenhouse 
at the house of a relative of mine is heated, may 
prove interesting and useful to some readers. In 
the side of the house, and close to one end, is 
built an ordinary brick fireplace, similar to those 
under boilers or “ set-pots ” in wash-houses 
attached to most middle-class houses, and closed 
in the same manner by an ordinary cast-iron 
door, the frame of which is set in the brickwork 
nearly flush with the side of the house. Twelve- 
inch ordinary fire-clay pipes are then attached 
at the back of the fireplace about 4 inches from 
the floor, and carried round the end and one 
side of the greenhouse, the smoke then passing 
into a chimney built outside the house. These 
pipes are covered with a casing of brickwork, 
one brick thick at the sides and half a brick 
thick at the top of the pipes. The sides being 
carried a few inches higher than the top of those 
laid over the pipes. This gives a space of about 
a foot, in which is placed Band, or soil, in which 
to strike cuttings or raise plants from seed.. The 
fuel used is the refuse from the house fires, 
which, after the fire is once started, will burn 
almost without sifting. A fairly equal tempera¬ 
ture can be kept for twelve hours without 
attention, and I have known the fire to be in 
after a lapse of eighteen hours.— Elleuslie. 


CYPRIPEDIUM CALCEOLU8 

(THE YELLOW LADY'S SLIPPER ORCHID) 



HOOPER & CO.. Covent Garden, London. 


Cheap Offer of 

Jersey Fruit Trees and Roses. 


12 8troDg standard Rose trees .. .. .. 13*. 

12 strong dwarf Rose trees .. .. 9s. 

12 Pears or Apples of the varieties for which Jersey 
ia bo well known .. .. .. .. 20a 


100,000 HARDY PLANTS 

FOR 8ALE. fib for immediate planting; strong, vigorous 
and healthy; sure bo please. Send for catalogue. ' 


Anemone japonic* alba, 6d. 
each. 5s. doz. 

Antirrhinum, prize strain. Is. 
and 28. doz. 

Aquilegias. new varieties, 2s. 
and 4s. doz. 

Arabia v&riegata. Is. doz. 

Arabia albida. Is. doz. 

Aster alpiuus, Kd. each. 

Michaelmas Daisits, two 
vara, for la. 

Alpine Auricula, 2s. 6d. doz. 

Canterbury Bells, 2s. doz. 

Carnation true old Crimson 
Clove, 9d. each, three for 2s. 

Carnation, true old Purple 
Clove, 1 b each. 

Carnation Grenadin, 3s. doz. 

Carnations, named varieties. 
9s. doz. 

Carnations, mixed, 2s, doz. 

Picotee Redbraes, 9d. each. 

Alpine Wallflowers. 3s. doz. 

The true old double yellow 
Wallflower, 6& each. 

Daisies Rob Roy, Is. doz. 

., The Bride, Is. doz. 

„ Pink Beauty, Is. doz. 

„ Victoria, Is. doz. 


Myoeotifl dissitiflora (Forget- 
me-not), 1 b. doz. 

PanBiea, named bedding va¬ 
rieties, 2s. 6d. doz. 

Pansies, mixed varieties, le, 
doz. 

New Pink Mrs. Sink Inn, M. 
each. 

Pink fimbriata major, fine 
large white, 6d. each. 

Polyanthus, tine miied 
clumps, at Is., la 6d., £s , 
and 2s. 6d. doz 

Single Bweet Rockets, It doz. 

Double Bweet Rockets, fid. 
each. 

Hollyhocks, 2s. 6<L and 4 a 
doz. 

Bweet Williams, prize strain, 
20 for Is. 

Tussilago fragrant 2a. doz. 

Violets, three vara, for li 

Violas, named varieties, 2a 
doz. 

Wallflowers, double German, 
Is. 6d. doz. 

Wallflowers, Blood-red, la. 
doz. 

Wallflowers, yellow, It dot 


Greenhouse plants—double white Primulas, 9<L each, 6s 
doz. ; Cinerarias, single, Is. 6<L doz. ; double Cinerarias, 
three vars. for Is. ; Btephanotis. Is. ; Tacsonia, Is.: winter¬ 
flowering Tropaiolum Ball of Fire, 9d. each ; Palms, 6d. each ; 
zonal Geraniums, very fine, 4s. and 6s. doz.; show Pelar¬ 
goniums. six vars for 2s. 

Strawbewry plants, very strong, for fruiting next leason, 
Marshal MacMahon, 5s. 100: President, 4s. 100; Sir J. 
Paxton, 5s. 100; Keen's Seedling, 4s 100; CrimBon Queen, 
6 s. 100; Auguste Boiselot, 5s. 100; sample doz. of any for Is 


JOHN GREEN 

Floral Nurseries, Thorpe, Norwich. 

M ushroom spawn, best quality, 4 b.m. 

per bushel of 20 bricks ; two bricks post free for lr, 
with notes on culture; trade price very low.—J. FRIOB, 
Sunbury Lane, Walton on-Thames. 


DR- SMILES’S WORKS- 

JAMBS NASMYTH, ENGINEER: an AUTO¬ 
BIOGRAPHY. Wit h Portrait etched by Rajon, and 
90 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 16s. 

“ The whole raDge of literary biography may be searched 
in vain for a more interesting record of an active, useful, 
successful, and happy life than is presented by the delightful 
autobiography of James Nasmyth."— Edinburgh Rrvirv. 

“ We shoulu not know where to stop if we were to attempt 
to notice all that ia instructive and interesting in this volume. 
It will be found equally interesting to students of humua 
nature, to engineers, to astronomers, and even to arche¬ 
ologists. Among other merits, there are few books which 
could be put with more advantage into a young man's hiunls 
as affording au example of the qualities which conduo- 
to legitimate success in work ."—Qvarterly Revitvo. 

LIFE OF A SCOTCH NATURALIST. New 
Edition. Portrait and Illustrations. Post 8vo. & 
DUTY : with Illustrations of Courage, Patience, 
and Endurance. Post 8vo. 63 . 

SELF-HELP: with Illustrations of Conduct 
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THRIFT: a Book of Domestic Counsel. Post 
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Tool Makers. Post 8vo. 6s. 

LIVES OF THE ENGINEERS. Illustrated by 
9 Steel Portraits and 842 Engravings on Wood. 6 vols. 
7s. 6d. each. 

THE HUGUENOTS: Their Settlement?, 
Churches, and Industries in England aud Ireland. 
Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. 

ROBERT DICK: Baker of Thurso, Geologist 
and Botanist. With Portrait etched by Rajon, &na 
numerous Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 12s. 

JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street. 


12 Pears or Apples, trained for walls .. .. 25s. 

50 Gooseberries or Currants .. .. 12s. 

The above lota or part of each sent to any address, care 
fully packed, carriage paid to London, on receipt of P.O.O. 
JOSHUA LE CORNU k SON, High View Nurseries, Jersey. 


BORDER CARNATIONS AND PICOTEES. 

A Gran 1 < Joi lection. Catalogue Free on Application. 

ROMAN HYACINTHS, Lily of the Valley. Liiium 
auritum, tine Gladiolus brenchleyensis. (See ABC Bulb 
Guide, fret? ou application.) 

ROSKS, a rpioudid collection, also hardy climbers. Priced 
and fully deec.ibed in New Autumn Catalogue, free on appli¬ 
cation. 

GREEN AND GOLDEN EUONYMUS, fine bushy plants; 
Veronica Travel si. very bushy. These are specially adapted 
for window boxes, pots, and border planting. See Catalogue 
of TreeB aud Shrubs, free on application.—THOMAS S. 
WARE, Hale Farm Nurseries, Tottenham. London. 


DERNb from Devonshire, Cornwall, and Somer- 

-L set, by an experienced collector of 25 years; oorrectly 
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Rockery, planting Ferns. Ac., with each 5s. order. 14 to 20 
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SWEET BEEATE 



Hooper's 
C achous 


| After smoking °r 
i tin g seasoned fooa 
Every remecUbk 
Chemist and Tobac¬ 
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[They are certified, 
after analysis, to be 
perfectly hannlesd 

-cito health.! 

Avoid the many attempted, and possibly injurious, imUodOM 


O.ARDKN POTBI—20 6-in„ 45 6-in., 45 Iris., 

VJ 45 4-_in.. 45 3-In., packed in cases and_Bent to ndl fori 
7s. (kl, castf; pigeon bowls. Is. 3d. dozen— 1 L GODDARD 


GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED. 


\'oi„ V. DECEMBER 1, 1883. No. 247. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


GREENHOUSE PLANTS FROM SEED. 

The strains of many nsefnl decorative plants, 

1 arch as the herbaceous Calceolaria, the Cineraria, 

1 the Cyclamen, and even the tuberous-rooted 
Ikgonia, have now become so much improved 
that the practice of increasing them by cuttings 
or by division has been in a great measure dis¬ 
continued, except in the case of rare or distinct 
forms which occasionally present themselves 
among seminal plants. These should be in- 
4 creased at as early a period as possible in order 
„ to lessen the risk of losing the variety—a risk 
which in the case of single plants is necessarily 
' considerable. When seed is saved from the best 
varieties, it generally follows that the produce 
is equal in point of merit to the parent plants. 
Nor is this all, for the cultivator may, by the 
erercise of j ndicious manipulation, improve the 
strain of most plants ; for example, the flowers 
of any particular plant may possess in an emi- 
net,[degree the desired colour,form, or markings, 
bat may at the same time be deficient in point 
of sire. This desideratum may, however, also 
be secured, if not directly, yet in the coarse of a 
few generations by intercrossing. The principal 
object in view in the cultivation of ornamental 
plants is doubtless the pleasure of watching the 
gradual delopment of beauty in their flowers 
and foliage—a pleasure intensified rather than 
otherwise by the uncertainty as to what each 
succeeding development may disclose in the 
shape of new or unique forms, or improved and de¬ 
sirable varieties. An interest is, therefore, in¬ 
separable from the practice of raising plants 
from seed which is absent from that of raising 
them from division or cuttings which will neces¬ 
sarily in all respects prove identical with the 
plants from which they were separated. In the 
case of 

Herbaceous Calceolarias, 
nurserymen have, in a great measure, discon¬ 
tinued the practice of offering named varieties, 
but continue to supply seed or Beedling plants 
raised from strains in which they have full con¬ 
fidence, and such plants seldom fail to give 
satisfaction. Most growers of these plants will, 
however, prefer to raise their own from seed, and 
this is very easily accomplished by the following 
method. The plant, it is true, may be increased 
by cuttings, which root freely ; but seedlings are 
generally more robust, and form possibly better 
specimens than plants thus propagated do. 
About the middle or end of July, or even during 
the first week in August, will be found to be suffi¬ 
ciently early to sow the seed, which is remarkably 
small, and the young plants are very impatient 
of heat, as is indeed the case with Calceolarias 
in all stages. The seed may be sown in a 
6-inch pot, which will be found quite large 
enough to furnish some hundreds of plants. 
The pot should be drained to one-third 
or to even one-half of its depth, and over 
the drainage should be put a thiD layer of 
51 os 3 . The pot should then be filled to within 
half-inch of its rim, with a mixture of light 
loam and leaf-mould finely sifted. The surface 
of the soil should be made quite level, and should 
be well watered with a fine rose; the seed should 
be sown upon the wet surface and gently pressed 
into the soil with a smooth circnlar piece of wood 
or the bottom of a small pot. No covering of 
soil will be necessary, bat the surface of the 
pot should be covered with a piece of glass, and 
the pot should be placed on the north side of a 
wall, on moist sand or cinder ashes. Should the 
snrface of the soil become dry, it must be 
sprinkled with a fine rose, and as soon as the 
seeds have fairly vegetated, the piece of glass 
should be removed and a hand-glass placed over 
tha pot to protect its contents from injury from 
heavy rainfall. As soon as the young plants 
can be handled they should be pricked into seed- 
pans, which should be placed in a cold pit or 
frame, and when the plants have become some¬ 
what large they should be potted singly into 
1-inch pots, and from these in due time they 
ihould be transferred into pots soma 6 inches in 
iiameter, a convenient size in which to bloom 
hem, although a portion of them may have 
toother shift into pots someLfhmches or 9 inches 


in diameter, which will be sufficient for the 
largest specimens that can be desired. Calceo¬ 
larias are not very particular as to compost; a 
suitable one may consist of say about two- 
thirds rich, light turfy loam and onc-third 
leaf-mould, or, what is better, a like portion of 
well-rotted hotbed manure, with possibly a 
small quantity of sand. Ali should be in their 
flowering pots early in October; if a little 
earlier, so much the better. Being nearly hardy, 
Calceolarias are remarkably impatient of heat; 
therefore a cold pit is possibly the best structure 
in which to winter them. Do not keep them 
far from the glass, and trust during very severe 
weather rather to ample external covering than 
to fire heat. They are also very subject to the 
attacks of aphides, and ou that account occa¬ 
sional fumigations are necessary. They may 
with advantage be allowed to occupy a cold pit 
or frame until they begin to throw up their 
flower-stems, when they should be removed to 
the greenhouse or to where they are intended 
to bloom, and should be carefully shaded from 
bright sunshine, when the flowers will keep a 
long time in good condition. A structure of 
any kind entirely filled with choice herbaceous 
Calceolarias is certainly a remarkably pretty 
sight. 

Cinerarias. 

Most of what has just been said respecting 
herbaceous Calceolarias also applies to Cine¬ 
rarias, now generally treated as annuals, 
although named varieties are still offered in nur¬ 
serymen’s catalogues. Varieties of extraordi¬ 
nary merit when they appear should certainly 
be perpetuated by means of cuttings, which may 
generally be found near the base of the flower- 
stems early in August, and will be found to 
strike root freely. The plan now, however, 
generally pursued is to select fine robust plants 
possessing desirable qualities, such as substance 
and form of flower and brilliancy of colour, 
combined with a close, compact habit, ami 
to place them in some light, well-venti¬ 
lated structure, isolated from all other 
plants of this family, and from these to 
save seed, which, if large specimens are desired, 
may be sown about the middle of October, 
although early in the following February is 
possibly the best time to sow where the plants 
are required to bloom in 6-inch pots in the 
greenhouse during March and April. A cold pit 
or frame is the best structure for the Cineraria 
during summer; but as few plants are more 
easily injured by frost, it is necessary to remove 
them as soon as this is to be apprehended into 
Borne cool, airy structure from which frost can 
be effectually excluded, and where the plants 
can be kept pretty close to the glass. As they 
are exceedingly liable to the attacks of aphides 
and thrips, occasional fumigation will generally 
be found necessary. When in bloom a slight 
shade during bright sunshine will be found 
beneficial, and will naturally extend their season 
of flowering. 

Persian Cyclamens. 

These in their now numerous varieties are 
amongst the most delightful of winter-flowering 
plants for the greenhouse, and, indeed, for all 
decorative purposes. They remain long in 
flower, are delightfully scented, and keep well 
in water. They are nearly hardy, and some of 
the best varieties should annually be placed by 
themselves for the purpose of furnishing seed, 
which may be sown as soon as it is ripe, or in 
slight heat early in October, and with proper 
care the produce may be had in bloom in little 
more than twelve months from the time of sow¬ 
ing. After blooming, the plants should not be 
rapidly dried off, a course of treatment at one 
time practised; they should be turned out of 
their pots, and planted in suitable soil on the 
north side of a wall or some similar situation 
where they will be shaded from the midday sun, 
and will gradually go to rest. Early in October, 
when growth will have again commenced, they 
should be potted into pots corresponding to 
the size of the tubers, and may thus be grown 
for any number of years, although some pre¬ 
fer to discard them after the second or third 
season. 


Tuberous-rooted Begonias. 

These are now very plentiful, and many of 
them are exceedingly beantifnl. They have 
double as well as single flowers of large size, 
fine form, and possessing brilliant shades of 
colour. Cuttings of all the varieties strike root 
freely, although many of them fail to develop 
tubers, while in some cases tubers are formed, 
which, nevertheless, refuse to grow. To obviate 
this as far as is possible when this method of 
increasing the plants is resorted to, the points 
of vigorous, strong growing shoots should be 
selected for cuttings, and each cutting should 
have a wood bud in the axil of its lower leaf. 
Nurserymen’s catalogues contain long lists of 
named varieties. Bnt many, nevertheless, pre¬ 
fer growing them from seed, and to keep up the 
necessary stock raise a few plants by this means 
each season. If seed is saved from a col¬ 
lection of first-class varieties the seedlings 
can hardly fail to be good. There is, too, 
possibly no family of plants in which arti- 
fioial fertilisation can be more readily performed, 
and if a few female blossoms be selected upon a 
healthy plant of a first-rate variety, and crossed 
with pollen from male blooms of another first 
class but distinct sort, and means used to pre¬ 
vent the interference of insects, the progeny will 
be almost sure to inherit in a more or less degree 
the desired properties of each parent. The seed 
is remarkably small, and it is possible that a 
single pod may furnish hundreds of fertile seeds, 
which should be sown early in February in a 
temperature of about 60°; on account of its 
minute character it should not be covered with 
soil, or if so, very slightly, but the surface of the 
pot may with advantage have a piece of glass 
placed over it, as has been recommended in the 
esse of the Calceolaria. The young plants, when 
large enough, should be pricked into seed-pans, 
afterwards potted off singly in small pots, and 
finally shifted into 5-inch pots, and as the 
season advances they should be placed on ashes 
in a cold frame to be proved ; as most, if not all 
of them, will bloom during the season, and will 
most likely present considerable variety, a 
selection may be made, discarding inferior sorts. 
The tubers of the selected plants should be 
allowed to remain during the winter in the pots 
in which they bloomed, and the soil should be 
allowed to become quite dry, and they may be 
stored in any situation where they can be kept 
in that condition, and where the temperature 
will not fall much under 50°. They may also 
be allowed to start into growth in the old soil, 
and this they will possibly do somewhat irregu¬ 
larly, so that those inclined to be backward in 
this respect should be encouraged by an increase 
of temperature, and when fairly started they 
should be shifted into fresh soil, which may con¬ 
sist of a mixture of two parts turfy loam and one 
part of leaf-mould and well-rotted manure. To 
obtain large specimens repeated shifts or re- 
pottings may be found necessary, but very pretty 
and effective plants can be produced in pots not 
exceeding 8 inches in diameter. This plant is 
also admirably adapted for outdoor culture; 
where it is found to succeed well it forms a very 
effective bedding plant, and is very distinct from 
all other plants used for that purpose. In order 
to secure desirable plants for this purpose, 
instead of using those which are not considered 
good enough to retain in pots, let a plant or 
plants which may in all respects possess the 
desired properties required for bedding purposes, 
such as height, habit of growth, profusion of 
bloom, and shade of colour, Ac., be effectually 
isolated from each other, as well as from all 
other plants of the Begonia family, and from 
these save seed, and the plants raised from that 
will generally be found to come tolerably true, 
i.e., like the parent plant. These plants should 
during the first season be grown in a cold pit, 
and will be found suitable for bedding out 
daring the second and succeeding seasons. 

P. G. 


Draoophyllum graoile.— This is one of 
the prettiestof New Holland plants, and one which, 
unlike many choice hard-wooded subjects, is by 
no means of difficult culture. Accorded fair treat¬ 
ment, it quickly grows into a good sized specimen, 






440 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[I)rc, 1, 1883. 


— 1 

coarse, than where cool treatment is followed. ' 
Bat here a word of warning. They will not do 1 1 
well in stoves where the atmosphere is con. 
stantly close and moist; they go on fairly well I j 
for a time, bat by mid-winter, just when the i 
blooms are most wanted, they become so feeble 1 1 
as to be unable to yield either quantity or quality 
of flower. What these Tropieolums, incommot 
with many other winter blooming plants, like 
is a dryish, buoyant atmosphere, and a tempera¬ 
ture never dropping much below 50°, with ad¬ 
mission of air in mild weather. This, whilst pro¬ 
moting growth, maintains it robust—there is con¬ 
stant progression without enfeeblement. But 
in the ordinary greenhouse they will, if 
prepared as above directed, yield plenty of good 
flowers at this dull season, that is if a wholesome 
atmosphere is maintained by making a little 
fire on damp, cold days, opening the ventilators 
for an hour or two to allow of the escape of 
stagnant moisture, and giving a little air on 
mild days. There is one compensation which 
those who have to grow “ cool" will have for 
the less amount of bloom thus obtained in 
winter, and that is the brilliancy of their plants 
in early spring, as, brought along without 
stimulation through the dull months, they will 
burst as it were into bloom in March, and will 
yield a blaze of colour before which even the 
bright-hued Zonal pales. And here I may 
add tbat, although too late to prepare for 
winter, provision may be made for spring, 
and if good Btrong-growing plants are pro¬ 
cured now, and are put into 6-inch pots at 
once, they will flower with considerable freedom 
during spring. Before leaving this part of the 
subject, we would direct special attention to 
’the absolute necessity for well feeding plant* 
which at housing time have their pots full ol 
roots with liquid manure during the winter. Ae 
these plants form large masses of foliage and 
flowers, there is a great demand 'Hi the roots 
for nourishment, and when this is not givee, 
the foliage tnrnB yellow and the blooms come 
imperfect and scanty in number. Soot water, 
weak guano water, or top-dressings of some 
concentrated manure will keep them in good 
condition. 

Position.—I n the generality of glasshouses 
the most convenient place for these lropusoluus 
will be the rafters, fixing strings or wiles from 
the top to the bottom of them, placing the pets, 
of course, at the lowermost portion of the struc¬ 
ture near the ventilators. When no back stage 
exists, quite a fine effect may be produced by 
training the plants to cover the walls, "lieu 
they do well, the wealth of tender green foliage 
and rich display of flowers give an effect as 
brilliant as it is pleasing. In large houses the 
pillars may be draped with them; indeed, lor 
the adornment of large conservatories through 
the winter, it would be difficult to find the equal 
of these winter-flowering Nasturtiums, as they 
grow with great luxuriance and eDjoy almost 
perfect immunity from insect pests. Another 
way by which their attractive features are very 
fully displayed, is by planting them in bunging 
baskets where they may droop down, forming 
festoons of verdure and bloom. For large houses 
such baskets would prove invaluable, and small 
ones would much embellish those of ordinal 
dimensions. In whichever way employed, these 
winter-blooming Tropseolams are capable ot 
affording a large amount of delight for » 
expense and labour, and I strongly urge rtsdeb 
of Gardening to give them a place in the 1 
glasshouses and the culture they need. J - 
By fleet, JYov. 18, 1883. 


in wnich condition it is very effective. It does 
not appear to be liable to go off suddenly when 
the half specimen stage is past, as do many New 
Holland plants. Only the very best peat, with 
plenty of coarse silver sand in it, should be used, 
the best time to pot being, in the case of small 
plants, March, and for larger specimens when 
they have done flowering. Those who grow hard- 
wooded greenhouse plants should not forget this 
one, its numerous pure white blooms rendering 
it one of the most attractive of them.—J. C., 
Byfleet. _ 

WINTER-BLOOMING TROI'ffCOLUMS. 
Few winter-flowering plants are more worthy of 
good cultural care than these, as from November 
onwards through the winter and spring they will 
furnish a supply of bright blooms in an ordinary 
greenhouse temperature, if liberally grown 
during the summer season. It is indeed the 
summer treatment which paves the way f <r the 
enjoyment which these extremely gay plants 
are capable of affording when the days are at 
their shortest, bat although it is, of cour.-e, too late 
to prepare good specimens for winter bloom, yet 


Endowed in this manner with much robustness, 
they will take kindly to their open-air quarters 
later on, whilst if brought on under more 
enervating conditions, they will be a long time 
before they gather sufficient strength to allow 
of rapid shoot extension. Put a neat stake to 
each plant, and see tbat there is no lack of 
moisture at the roots; also pick off any buds 
tbat may form. 

Summer treatment. —This is simple enough, 
aDd consists mainly in affording plenty of 
nourishment, both solid and liquid, through the 
summer and autumn, as the object is to form 
i good strong specimens, fall of flower bearing 
capacity, by the end of October. Having 
hardened off the plants in the nsual way, place 
them by the middle of June in eome sunny, 
sheltered spot in the open, and shift them on as 
soon as the pots get pretty well full of roots. 
When they become established in 6-inch pots, 
shift them for the last time into either 8-inch or 
10-inch ones, according as there is more or less 
space for them to ramble in through the winter. 
For a greenhouse of ordinary dimensions. 8-inch 
pots are quite large enongh. I think that when 



Winter-blooming Tropmolum. 


now, when the glory of the outdoor garden is 
over for the time being and the attention of the 
fervent lover ie to a great extent concentrated on 
his glasshouses, is the time to make special note 
of such plants as are capable of rendering them 
cheerfnl and attractive at this time of year. 
Preparing young plants. —Do not let the 
year be too far advanced before getting the 
plants or striking the enttings. If yon have old 
specimens, take off the young terminal shoots, 
which alone make good cuttings, in March if 
you have at command a constant temperature of 
60°, and in April if they are to be propagated 
in an ordinary greenhouse. Tropic olumn are of 
such easy propagation that I need scarcely give 
instructions on this point. In light sandy soil 
they quickly make roots, and when well started 
into growth pnt them singly into small pots, 
shifting on as they require it. If propagated in 
warmth, they should come into cool temperature 
by the end of April at the latest, receiving 
ordinary greenhouse treatment, which means 
allowing them sufficient air to make them 
B lardy and vigorous, whilst not in aoy way 
exposing them to cold draughts. They should 
never be shaded, and should get as 
much light as can be admitted to them. 

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the pots get pretty full of roots by winter, and 
vigour and growth are maintained by means of 
weak liquid manure, the plants produce a larger 
amount of bloom than when the roots have a 
more extensive feeding ground. Any fair good 
soil will grow these Tropieolums, bat they like 
good fibrous loam with a little thoroughly rotted 
manure in it. Give good drainage when shifting 
for the last time, and pot firmly. Some provision 
will have to be made for training them when 
they come into full growth, and if strings can 
be fixed against a wall, tying the shoots there¬ 
to will be found about the best place for 
them, as they will there get shelter from high 
winds. Failing this accommodation, drive in a 
stoat Btake close to the pot, and fix a string to 
the whole length of it, tying the growth to the 
string only, as then at housing time the 
plants can be removed, strings and all, and placed 
in their permanent quarters without danger of 
breaking any of the shoots. 

Winter management.— There is no place 
so good for winter blooming Tropieolums as a 
nice light house where the temperature ranges 
constantly at from 60° to 65°. Therein they 
come along well, and produce quite a large 
amount of bloom during the winter, more, of 


10643.— Fuchsia flowers dropping- 

Debility is undoubtedly the cause, produced by 
insufficient ventilation. Daring the summer 
and early autumn months Fuchsias should never 
be deprived of air night nor day, and when a 
window ie the only shelter that can be given 
them they are best in the open air from the 
middle of June onwards, giving them s plaf* 
where they are sheltered from rough winds. 
They do well on window ledges during l“ e 
summer. In the open they make a short, stnn.y 
growth and bloom freely. Soot water is » g 00 * 1 
manure for them. — J. C., By fleet. 

10617. — Wintering Begonias. — The 
stems will decay naturally and fall awsy hop 
the tubers, and if there is room they may rein»> n 
in the pots all the winter until they start into I 
growth again in spring, when all the old soil hasj 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 












Dec. 1, 16fc3.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


441 


to be shaken away and the tubers re-potted. 
They also may be shaken out when the stems 
are dead and be stored in cocoa fibre for the 
winter or in sand, potting them about the first 
week in April.—J. C. B. 

10563.— Roohea faloata —If side growths 
form they may be taken off and struck during 
the summer months, bat the ordinary method is 
to take off the head with about four leaves about 
the middle of June, inserting it in sandy soil 
and placing in an unshaded airy greenhouse. 
Keep the soil just moist, and in the course of 
the summer roots will be formed. The old stool 
shoold be sparingly watered, and will produce 
ride shoots in the course of the season, which 
the following year may, if large enough, be 
taken off. Not much water is required in winter, 
watering only when dry.—J. C. B. 

1061B.— Gardenias. —During the winter 
they must have a light position in a warm house, 
say a constant temperature of 60°. Water 
moderately, not allowing the soil to become 
quite dry, and in March, if the pot is full of 
roots, shift into a pot one size larger, using good 
fibrous loam and peat in equal parts. Gardenias 
require strong heat, with a large amount of 
atmospherical moisture when growing, with 
slight shade from hot sun. From the middle of 
August they should get more air to ripen the 
wood.—J. C. B. 

10656.— Potting Lachenallas. — They 

should have been potted about the middle of 
September, as then they become well rooted by 
the time they come fully into growth. But 
they will succeed even now if potted at once. Put 
six bulbs in a 6-inch pot, using loam two parts, 
leaf-mould one part, with some white sand. 
Water moderately and keep the soil just moist, 
giving them a light position when they come 
into leaf.—J. C. B. 

10601.— Plants for covered passage — 

The situation is very unfavourable for plants 
generally, owing to the want of light. It is a 
pity it could not have a glazed top, as then many 
beautiful flowering climbers might be grown 
therein. As it is, we can think of nothing so 
good as Ivies, and if you plant a selection of 
half a dozen or more kinds, both plain-leaved 
»nd variegated, you will get something cheerful 
all the year throogh. There are a large number 
of variegated Ivies of moderate growth, and 
these would undoubtedly do well if at tended to 
is the way of watering during the summer. 
They would need to be well syringed every day 
or so iu hot, dry weather to keep the foliage 
healthy.—J. C. B. 

10614. —Wintering Ooleuses.— Young 
plants of Coleuses are much better to keep 
through the winter for stock than old ones, and 
also take up less space. You want to propagate 
about the middle of August, and by this time 
you would have nice little bushy plants in 4-inch 
or 5-inch pots. Place on a shelf where they will 
get plenty of light, and in a temperature of 55° 
to 60°. They do not require much water in 
winter, but they must not be allowed to get too 
dry. Propagate again from these in the spring 
for summer supply. They are very easily rooted 
in a little bottom-heat. Let the compost be 
equal parts silver sand, sifted loam, and leaf- 
mould.—J. Bobertson. 


HOUSE AND WINDOW GARDENING, 

HYACINTHS FOB WINDOW CULTUBE. 
At this season, when most people have been 
making their purchases of bulbs for spring 
blooming, it is interesting to recall the fact that 
as early as the year 1596, nearly 300 years ago, 
the Hyacinth was beginning to be a popular 
liower. Beferring to books of that ancient date, 
we find that they were cultivated by Gerard, 
kho figures two varieties in the famous herbal 
tliat bears his name; and some thirty years later 
ihese had increased to eight different sorts, which 
Ve set down in order, with quaint illustrations, 
ft Parkinson, in that curious work, “ Paradise in 
trie Paradisus Terrestris," published in 1629, 
'hich is still reverenced by those who are in- 
‘■rested in the subject as a guide to rare and old- 
fcrid garden plants. In these and similar old 
«oks it is called the Oriental Hyacinth, because 
i reached these shores from the Levant and 
sCi Minor, where it abounds, and where it 
: fWens in February ; and there are records early 
“tiis century of a yellow species,Bthpovi ^eS ita 


Lepechin, growing amongst the purple ones in 
Russian territory. It is not unlikely that many 
of us, losing sight of its Eastern origin, set it 
down as a plant of Dutch extraction. Nor is this 
altogether unnatural, for as early as the latter half 
of the seventeenth century Flemish gardeners 
were at work, and had already raised great numbers 
of fine varieties ; and no wonder, for we read of 
fabulous prices being given for the best of these 
in those far-off days when Peter Voorhelm used 
to cultivate the Hyacinth in the sandy dunes 
round about his native Haarlem. Philip Miller, 
another good gardener, tells a curious story of 
the origin of the double Hyacinth. Old Peter 
must have been an enthusiastic lover of his 
favourite and most profitable flower, for we are 
told that he spared no pains to bring it to per¬ 
fection, and the least irregularity of form or 
colour in the waxen bells disqualified any bulb 
from a place in his well-assorted garden beds, 
and was rigorously “oast out” of his collection. 
But once upon a time it happened that Peter 
Yoorhelm was laid aside by illness, and his 
flowers had to remain, unvisited, day after day, 
until their beauty bad waxed and waned again. 
And when at length he was able to creep out 
amongst them, of all the fair sisterhood, he 
found left but one alone in tardy bloom, and 
that one was double. We do not know that it 
possessed any special beauty, in fact it is 
noted that it was small and of no great 
value, but there it was, the only flower 
out of myriads left to greet him on his recovery 
from his sickness, and so he cherished it, and 
nursed its tiny offsets until they grew into 
flowering bulbs. And, as time passed on, the 
Hyacinth attracted the attention of the florists 
and brought him a little harvest of its own; and 
so between the lurking sentiment connected 
with the flower and the profit it gained for him, 
the old Dutch gardener took to raising double 
Hyacinths instead of siDgle ones, and we read 
that in those days, it was not uncommon for a 
thousand florins (nearly £100) to be paid for a 
single bulb. I do not know whether Peter was 
the fortunate raiser of the King of Great Britain, 
which used to be reckoned the oldest double 
Hyacinth in cultivation. Probably it is now no 
longer in existence ; but since that time Dutch 
gardeners have raised countless fine varieties, 
for which such large sums as from £100 to £200 
have been paid. Fortunately for us in these 
days, the Hyacinth mania, like the similar craze 
for the Tulip, has passed away, and half-a-crown 
is considered a good price to give for a single 
bnlb, and we enjoy them none the less because 
we may grow them without risk either to peace 
of mind or of making too large a dip into a 
limited purse. Until quite within recent years, 
double Hyacinths have been able to retain their 
hold on public estimation, but a truer and more 
simple taste for single flowers of all kinds has 
happily revived, and double Hyacinths, like 
double Dahlias, no longer find the same favour. 
This may, probably, be owiDg also to the fact 
that the single sorts produce much finer and 
more perfectly shaped spikes of bloom. 

Of all bulbs, none are better suited for the 
window than the Hyacinth, though we may, 
perhaps, be inclined to bracket with it the Nar¬ 
cissus ; and nothing in the way of a flowering 
plant is so good as a bulb for a young gardener 
to begin his cultural experiences upon, chiefly 
for these reasons—there is so little to learn 
as to their management, and, once started, 
development is so rapid that the most impatient 
disposition is not severely taxed in looking for¬ 
ward to results, while success is almost certain. 
It is so pleasant, too, to begin our gardening in 
the dull days bordering on frost and snow and 
dearth of flowers, instead of waiting till the 
spring; and we are apt to forget that all the 
real culture has taken place on those low-lying 
sand-hills by the North Sea shore, while we take 
credit to ourselves for the beautiful flowers we 
have reared within the shelter of our English 
windows. Nevertheless, there is something to 
learn and something to do, simple though it be, 
as we may see for ourselves any winter day in 
passing through London squares or suburban 
streets where window gardening is attempted. 
Sometimes in boxes, sometimes in pots or in 
glasses, we may notice, only too often, the 
piteous traces of carlessness and ignorance of 
their wants—a secret which neglected plants of 
all kinds are quick to reveal. A few seasonable 
cultural hints will not, therefore, be out of 


Selecting the Bulbs. 

In choosing Hyacinth bulbs, inexperienced 
buyers are apt to give the preference, in 
all cases, to the largest sized roots, but size 
is not always the best criterion of worth. 
Small bulbs often produce finer spikes of 
bloom than large ones, and a good judge tests 
by weight rather than by size. A compact, 
heavy, well-ripened bulb, though small, may be 
much better than a large loose-grown one of 
light weight. Different sorts also vary greatly 
as to size of bnlb. It is better to leave the choice 
to those whose experience may be trusted, and 
if we do our part as to cultivation, it is seldom 
that any well-known dealer fails in his ; but it 
very often happens that complaints are made 
about the inferiority of bulbs when the blame 
lies with the cultivator, for want of knowledge 
and care, rather than with the quality of the 
roots supplied. We need not be afraid to buy 
our bulbs from any reliable seedsman; but it is 
never a wise thing to pick out for ourselves roots 
which have been exposed for sale in the open 
market, or which have been wasting their 
substanoe for an indefinite time behind the 
scorching panes of a Bnnny shop window. In 
ordering, it is necessary to state whether the 
bulbs are required for growing in pots or glasses, 
as all kinds are not so suitable for the latter 
purpose. 

Culture in Glasses. 

Those who intend to grow their Hyacinths in 
glasses should get them started during the next 
fortnight, and if glasses have to be provided, 
those known as Tye's, which are of low shape and 
broad at the base, should be chosen. They are 
more convenient in every way, and may be got 
in all colours from sixpence to one shilling each. 
The tall, old-fashioned glasses are very apt to 
be upset, and it is much more difficult to give 
support to the flower growing in them. Clear 
glass has its advantages, because it is pleasant 
to watch the progress of the root-fibres; but it 
is a question whether opaque glasses are not 
better for the health of the plants, since roots 
grow naturally in the dark. 

For the convenience of those who have not 
had much experience in this mode of cultivation, 
a few of the Hyacinths best suited for water 
cultnre may here be named. All of them are 
to be found in the catalogues of any of the 
best-known nurserymen, and very few of them 
are priced higher than sixpence apiece:— 

Duchess ot Richmrnd—pink, large spike, fine. 
Gigantes-deep blush, large bells and spike, tine. 

Lord Wellington—rose, striped carmine, large spike. 
Mdme. Hodgson—pale pink, fine bells and spike, 
horma—beautiful pink, very large bells and spike, flrst- 

rnte. 

Robert Steiger—bright crimson, good close spike. 

Sultan’s Favourito—pale lose with darker stripes, very 

fine. 

Charles Dickens—clear mauve. 

Alba superbtsaima—pure white, extra fine. 

Grand Vainquer—pure white, good bolls and spike. 
Grandeur k MerveUle—good blush, excellent. 

Seraphine—pale blush, immense spike, flue. 

Baron Von Tuyll—dark blue, flue spike, good, 
lllen Mourant—dark blue, large spike. 

Charles Dickens - fine light blue, excellent. 

Grand Lilas—light azure blue, very fine. 

Mimosa—flue black, large spike, good. 

Grondates—fine porcelain blue, very good. 

Regulus—pale blue, a tine bold spike. 

William I.—very dark purple, good spike. 

Anna Caroline—primrose-yellow, fine spike. 

The above-named are all single varieties. 

Clear rainwater should be used, and if two 
or three lumps of charcoal are dropped into 
each glass before it is filled, they will help 
greatly to keep the water sweet and pure. 
Triewald, to whose discovery we are indebted 
for this method of growing bulbs, added a 
grain or two of saltpetre, but we are not told 
with what special result. Miller also tried the 
effect of placing a small quantity of garden 
mould at the bottom of some of his glasses, and 
it is interesting to note that the bulbs thus 
treated were considerably retarded in their time 
of blooming, while they were in no way bene¬ 
fited by the addition. Most people who like to 
watch the development of their plants have 
tried such small experiments for themselves, and 
close observers gain much valuable knowledge 
in this way. It is better for the water in the 
glasses to be about a quarter of an inch below 
the base of the bulb rather than touohing it, and 
as the water diminishes, which it will do by 
degrees, it can be filled up with fresh water to 
the same height as before. It is not necessary 
to change the water frequently, but there is no 
law against changing it if it be needfnl, though 



442 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Dec. I, 1883. 


the operation requires care and judgment. It 
is recommended to place new potted bulbs in 
the dark, either under sand or coal ashes out of 
doors, for a month or six weeks before bringing 
them into their growing quarters ; or, in the case 
of those placed in glasses, to give them a sea¬ 
son of retirement in a dark cupboard. This is 
supposed to assist healthy root action. I can 
testify, by my own experience, that the dark 
cupboard system has resulted in such excessively 
vigorous root action that, at the end of three or 
four weeks, the fibres had travelled completely 
out of the pots, scattering the soil all over the 
Bhelf upon which they were placed. 

Position. 


Hyacinths love a sunny window, and it must 
not be forgotten that they are quite hardy, and 
must on no account be coddled ; all the same, 
they must be protected from frost, because as 
they are growing out of their proper season in 
the shelter of the house, they are naturally not 
in a condition to defy extremes of weather. The 
great point is to keep the growth as dwarf and 
sturdy as possible. The dry, warm air of a sitting 
room, in which a fire is always burning, will be 
sure to make the leaves drawn and flaccid, and 
the flower-stem weak and spindly. This must 
be avoided if successful cultivation is aimed at. 
Air must be given on all possible occasions, and 
plenty of light. Cleanliness is another most im¬ 
portant factor in the case. The leaves should be 
carefully and gently sponged whenever there is 
any appearance of dust upon them. The glasses 
should also be frequently turned, so that the 
spikes may be symmetrical in shape, otherwise 
they are apt to lean towards the light. Wire 
supports to fit the glasses can be bought, and 
this should not be neglected at the time of pur¬ 
chase, as they are sure to be needed. If these 
directions are faithfully carried out, the experi¬ 
ment will be found, in the words of its Swedish 
discoverer “to be calculated for nothing but 
delight.” The Polyanthus Narcissus may be 
grown in like manner, but no other bulbs that 
we have tried are to be recommended for culture 
in glasses. 


Culture in Pots. 

Host of the above directions apply equally to 
bulbs grown in pots. They may be summed up 
under the following heads—air, light, cleanli¬ 
ness, and care. 

The soil in which the bulbs are potted should 
be well enriched and porous. Good loam, leaf- 
mould, and any coarse sharp sand forms a good 
compost. A soil of cocoanut fibre, mixed with 
charcoal and manure specially prepared for the 
culture of bulbs in rooms, is to be obtained at 
about Is. 6d. or 2s. a peck, and is a great boon 
to dwellers in towns, because it is so clean, and 
bulbs are said to thrive remarkably well in 
it. A 6-inch pot is quite large enough for a 
single bulb, as it is a bad plan to over-pot. After 
tho pot has been well crocked and partly filled 
with soil, which should be shaken and not 
tightly pressed down, the bulb must be gently 
laid on the surface. The soil should then be 
filled in round it to the level of the crown, which 
should not be covered. Experienced growers say 
that it is a mistake to press the bulb down hard 
upon the soil, as the roots have then a difficulty 
in making their way through it, which is apt to 
force the bulb out of its place. Hyacinths in 
pots as well as in glasses require supports, and 
these, owing to the impracticability of placing 
a stick close to the flower stem, are best made 
of wire bent at right angles, and can be bought 
for a few pence. The pots should stand in 
saucers, and it is an excellent plan to place a 
little finely-pounded charcoal in the saucers for 
the pots to rest upon. The charcoal will absorb 
a considerable amount of moisture, which serves 
to keep the air damp about the pots standing 
upon it. Water, however, should not be allowed 
to stand in the saucers. A good watering twice 
a week will suffice until growth is somewhat 
advanced. Afterwards, when the weather be¬ 
comes warmer and the flower-stalks progress, 
the quantity may be increased. A little weak 
manure or soot water will then be a great help, 
and if nothing better is at hand, a few drops of 
sal volatile in the water is no bad substitute— 
though rather a costly one. And while we pay 
such little attentions day by day, let us bear in 
mind that no plants repay kindness and care 
with sweeter, brighter flowers than the Oriental 
Hyacinth, which our gardening forefathers loved 
and so highly /triaed. _ | K. L. D. 


'Gtx gle 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 


Extracti from a Garden Diary—December 3 

to December 8. 

Planting Tritoma TIvaria, Phloxes, Hyacinths, Nar¬ 
cissi, and double scarlet Anemones; also standard 
Roses where required, and a hedge of Berberis asiatica ; 
likewise Cypripedium pubencens under hand glass out- 
of-doors in well-drained peat, and covering with a layer 
of leaves as a protection from frost; cleaning orchard- 
house, giving water before manuring, and again after, 
then soiling over all, and treading firmly; making a 
border ready for Parsley sowing; manuring young Apple 
trees; pruning espalier Apple and Pear trees, and re¬ 
tying them I’utting in to force third batch of Aspara¬ 
gus ; beginning to thin plantations, paying especial 
attention to specimen trees. Plants in flower—Hya¬ 
cinths, Lily of the Valley, .Narcissi, Mignonette, Helio¬ 
tropes, seen ted-leaved and scarlet Pelargoniums, Poin- 
settias, Fuchsias, Primulas, Chrysanthemums, Schizo- 
stylis coccinea, Amaryllises, 'tulips, and Coleus. Digging 
all vacant spaces ; finishing the trenching of borders for 
fruit trees ; putting Endive weekly into slight heut to 
blanch; placing below greenhouse stage all bulbs which 
have finished flowering in order to save them for plant¬ 
ing out-of-doors for cut flowers; covering up some Rhu¬ 
barb in the open ground; making a two-light bed for 
Carrots and Radishes; putting Ranunculuses in pots 
into cold frames. 

Potting young Cucumbers, and putting them into a 
small frame ; keeping Black Prince Strawberries at from 
65° to 58° by night, so as to have them ripe about March 
13; putting IreBine Linden! into heat for cuttings; moving 
Coleus from pits to shelf of early Vinery ; taxing up 
Lettuces from under wall and putting them iu frame ; 
tying up Vinos which were bent down in order to induce 
the rods to " break ’’ regularly. Potting Tuberoses and 
placing them in heat; putting Uloire de Dijon and 
Marechal Niel Roses into good-sized pots for flowering 
in conservatory. Planting Laurels and Yew trees; get¬ 
ting Camellias into conservatory ; putting Roman Hya¬ 
cinths which are in flower into greenhouse ; top-dressing 
Cucumber plants with loam and manure, and pressing it 
down firmly; Camellias and Narcissi coming well into 
flower, also a few pots of Lily of the Valley. Beginning 
to surface-dig herbaceous borders; potting Pelargo¬ 
niums; putting first batch of pot Roses into heat, and 
keeping them at 65° at night; protecting Peas from 
sparrows by means of Asparagus haulm, which not only 
serves to ward off frost, but lies so lightly tl>at the 
young Pea shoots grow right through it; making 
trenches round Wellington^ and filling them with 
good soil; giving a top-dressing of new soil to Vine 
border. 

Glasshouses. 

Zonal Pelargoniums.— At no season of the 
year aro these so useful as in the winter. A 
great number of new varieties make their appear¬ 
ance, yet, further than having large individual 
flowers, with possibly an infinitessimai difference 
in the shade of colour, many have little to recom¬ 
mend them. The double kinds possess the merit 
of lasting longer than the single sorts, the petals 
of which fall much sooner. For general purposes 
the bright red or scarlet, with the pink and white 
colours, are most useful. During the winter sea¬ 
son the individual flowers are finer and the colours 
better brought out where a considerable amount 
of heat is used, but under such conditions to en¬ 
able them to stand well when cut the plants re¬ 
quire to be kept with their heads close to the 
glass, and have air admitted continuously through 
the day, and in the nightas well, except when the 
weather is severe. When treated in this way the 
plants will bear much more heat than is usually 
supposed, producing a proportionately greater 
quantity of flowers. 

Greenhouse Rhododendrons. —There has 
been recently a number of flne kinds raised of 
the R. javanicnm race, possessing more or less 
the character of flower which that species ex¬ 
hibits ; the colours run through the different 
shades of yellow, with light and dark pink, red, 
and crimson. One of their good qualities is that 
with little warmth they can be had in flower al¬ 
most any time through the winter, when, in 
addition to tbeir merits for conservatory decora¬ 
tion, the flowers are useful for bouquets. This 
race of Rhododendrons, though good growers, 
are not so vigorous as to outrun the space at 
command even where the glass accommodation 
is limited, and on this account they deserve a 
place in small gardens. They do not require 
much pot room as compared with many hard- 
wooded plants. 

Imantophyllums.— Though these plants will 
thrive if kept continuously in a greenhouse, 
they succeed very well forced, and where there 
is a sufficient stock, it is well, with a view to 
keeping up a succession, to put a plant or two in 
heat every three weeks or so, by which means 
there will be some in flower almost continually. 
The cool end of the stove or forcing pit or any¬ 
where where they will receive an intermediate 
temperature is better suited to them than a 
strong heat. They are plants that do not soon 
out-grow reasonable limits: they divide readily, 
and moderate-sized examples are of more service 


than larger ones. Big plants may be broken np 
after they have done flowering just before 
growth commences, reducing them to one, two, 
or three crowns, keeping them in small pots as 
compared with such as are required for many 
things, and although when restricted for root 
room in this way, they do not increase quite so 
fast; still, they bloom jnst as freely. Succcs- 
sional plants that are wanted to come in later 
should be kept comparatively dry at the roots 
and quite cool. There are now a number of 
fine varieties raised from seed, the flowers of 
which are marked improvements upon the older 
forms. 

Flower Garden. 

At this time of year when the floral display 
out-of-doors is reduced to a minimum, increased 
attention should be paid to keeping all parts of 
the garden scrupulously clean. The Grass, if 
kept frequently swept and rolled, looks even 
better in winter than in snmmer, and with ever¬ 
green trees and ehrubs that come more 
prominently into notice after deciduous trees are 
cleared of their foliage, there should be no lack 
of interest even during the shortest days of the 
year. Some of the earliest flowering wall 
climbers are already expanding their blossoms, 
the bright yellow Jasminum nudiflorum being 
one of the first, and it is a most continuous 
bloomer, for if cut off by severe frost the first 
break to mild weather brings with it a fresh 
supply of gay blossoms. Christmas Roses, too, 
are fast coming into bloom. All kinds of spring¬ 
flowering plants and shrubs in beds that have 
been recently planted will need the soil to te 
pressed around tbeir stems as soon as it is dry 
enough for the purpose; and any Pansies that 
are likely to be broken had better be pegged 
down firmly. Keep mice from attacking Crocuses 
and other bulbs by trapping them. Stir the 
surface soil of the beds lightly and pick ofl 
decaying foliage. 

Beds and borders. —These may be dressed, 
manured, and lightly forked over while the 
weather is open and mild. In the pleasure 
grounds we are planting all beds that do not 
form part of the regular flower garden in this 
way. Single isolated beds or pairs by the side 
of walks, or in sheltered recesses amongst choice 
shrubs, afford a congenial home for plants that 
do not like annual removal. We find that the 
many beautiful sorts of single and double 
Primroses make excellent edgings, also alpine 
Auriculas, Gentians, Pinks, Hoteia japonic*. 
Saxifrages and Seduras, and many other dwatf 
plants, the centres being filled with Phlore;, 
Antirrhinums, Carnations, Roses, hardy Heaths, 
and dwarf-flowering shrubs, and amongst these 
bulbs flourish extremely well, dwarf Aconites, 
Scillas, and Dog’s-tooth Violets being used for 
mixing with edging plants and tall Lilies, and 
the hardier kinda of Gladioli in the centres. 
Where forking cannot be done without disturbing 
the roots, a top-dressing of well-decayed 
manure and soil worked evenly over the surface 
under the foliage of carpet plants will invigorate 
them for another year’s blooming. 

Roses. —Those that were planted last month, 
if not already done, should have a mulching of 
partly-decayed manure to keep the soil about lie 
roots and lower parts of the stem from getting 
frozen. Where the tender Tea kinds are to be 
wintered out-of-doors some light protection 
should be placed over them on the first indica¬ 
tion of severe frost; to do them justice they 
require the protection of a wall, where they keep 
on furnishing blooms for catting after most 
other kinds are over. The pruning of Roses had 
better be deferred until spring; but manuring 
the beds and lightly forking it in should be done 
at once. Roses like good rich farmyard manure, 
and any beds that are getting weakly or 
exhausted will well repay lifting and thoroughly , 
renewing the worn-out soil and replanting a j 
little deeper than before. Dwarfs are especially 
benefited by such treatment. 

Vegetables 

Every available inch of land shonld now be 
turned over, and where manure is required use 
it freely. I find from many years' experience 
that good farmyard manure is still the best for 

most purposes. If Globe Artichokes are not yet 
protected, delay that operation no longer, My < 
Artichokes grow on each side of a long walk, and 
are quite as effective as many sub-tropical | 
plants; therefore in this case we combine the l 
useful with the ornamental. We are now sowing I 




Dec. 1, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


443 


Rhubarb, Asparagus and Seakale. We thus 
keep the stock well to the front, so that we have 
always plenty on hand. Mint, Tarragon, and 
Chives (the latter in great use here) will now 
require due attention. Of these we have a 
capital stock outside; therefore the trouble of 
putting in a few boxfuls is not great. Keep a 
sharp look-out for mice on the early Pea border. 
The old “ brick and stick ” traps we use here, and 
still consider them the best. Directly you see 
the young Peas coming up cover them an inoh 
thick with sifted coal ashes, which will keep off 
mice, and protect them from cold surface winds. 
Beans, of which we like Green Windsor the best, 
should now be sown, if not already done. Young 
Cauliflower expose fully all day except in severe 
weather, shutting them up in the evening. 

Brussels Sprouts and Kales will, after severe 
frost, be the better for having the old, decayed 
leaves cleared off, both to admit air to the 
plants and to get rid of the disagreeable smell 
which emanates from such decaying matter. 
Young plantations of Cabbage should be earthed 
up, and be carefully guarded from sings and 
grubs by dustings with lime or toot. Cauli¬ 
flowers and early Broccoli should be lifted 
directly they turn in, and be “ heeled in ” in 
some sheltered spot, and protected with mats in 
severe weather. Plots of Spinach should have 
the soil occasionally stirred; on light open soil 
this crop never fails in winter, but it is a critical 
crop on heavy land; hence the desirability of 
frequent hoeing or “ pointing over.” Celery 
should be finally earthed np when the weather 
is dry, and protection provided for severe wea¬ 
ther. Hurdles or mats, resting on Pea sticks 
laid over the ridges, form a handy mode of 
protection. Potatoes may now be planted in 
frames; for these a bed of Oak leaves forms the 
most congenial bottom-heat, as also for Carrots 
and Kadishes, and though top-heat from pipes 
saves a lot of covering up, by this mode of 
heating Potatoes are so apt to develop a weakly 
growth of haulm, and consequently an inferior 
crop of tubers, that preference should be given 
to growing them without top-heat other than 
that produced by the bed of leaves; of course, 
outside linings to frames will be requisite, also 
thick coverings over the glass nightly. 


WOBK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 
Unless there is a greenhouse (or more than one) 
there is really almost nothing to do in the town 
garden during the depth of winter. The advan¬ 
tage of having one or more glasshouses is, that 
at all seasons of the year there is not only some¬ 
thing to do, but something to look at to engage 
attention, and that the work can be done, or the 
attention given, no matter what the weather 
outside may be. 

Hyacinths and Tulips.— -The earliest lot 
of Roman Hyacinths, if they were potted in 
good time, and have received even a slight 
warmth, are now opening, or have already 
opened their blooms, and very pretty and sweet 
they are. These elegant and useful plants are 
so little trouble, so cheap, and flourish so well 
anywhere, that they should be grown by all who 
have a house at all. If they have been at all 
forced, it is much better to remove them into a 
cooler position or house just before the flowers 
expand, as they will come finer and last longer 
than if allowed to open in heat. Ordinary 
Hyacinths, Tulips, Ac., that were potted and 
plunged some time ago, should be brought in¬ 
doors as soon as the pots are well filled with 
roots and the crowns beginning to grow. If re¬ 
quired early they may be placed in heat at once, 
but if allowed to come on slowly in a cool tem¬ 
perature, they will flower much more finely. 
1 Keep Mignonette in pots in a cool, airy place, 
l and as close to the glass as possible. 

I Pelargoniums of the show and fancy sec- 
l tions must be kept almost dry at this season, 
I particularly if in a low temperature; zonals 
I need rather more water, but still should be 
■ rather dry than too wet. The beautiful varieties 
4 of Epacris, which do well in towns as a rule, 
are now advancing rapidly into flower, and 
should have a light, warm position, and a fair 
supply of water to assist the proper development 
if the blooms. 

ClNEEABI AS for spring flowering will now, or 
ihortly, need potting into 4 j-inch pots. Many 
>1 unateuxs find them apt to “ go off ” suddenly 
liter this operation, but if- the plants are kept 
sry and cool for a few Uveelrn jketupaahd-L 


“ hardened off ” a little in fact—well watered 
before potting, and kept close and slightly warm 
afterwards, with a moist atmosphere, and but 
little water at the root until well in growth again, 
very few losses will be found to occur. 

B. C. R. 


ROSES. 

PROTECTING ROSES. 

Few growers of Roses now donbt or call in ques¬ 
tion the fact that some protection for the tops of 
Roses is needfnl. Speaking broadly, hardly any of 
our Teas, unless it be Gloire de Dijon, and not 
many of our Hybrid Perpetuals worthy of the 
name, can bear 16° of frost with impunity. The 
later Roses bloom in the autumn the more tender 
they become. And this of necessity; growth im¬ 
plies tenderness as a rule. There may be ex¬ 
ceptions to this general law, but assuredly these 
will not generally be found among Roses. 
Hence all that special culture, breeding, and 
selection that result in supplying the greatest 
Rose want of the age, perpetuity of blooming, 
render the need of some kind of protection 
for the tops of Roses in winter more imperative. 
Nor is this all. Experience has abundantly 
demonstrated alike the possibility and success 
of protecting the heads of Roses in winter. For 
several of our past seasons those protected 
were saved, while those left exposed to the full 
severities of our climate were lost. All this has 
been already pointed out. But as recent winters 
have been mild and not a few cultivators, espe¬ 
cially amateurs, have short memories, the time 
is seasonable for once more urging the neoessity 
of 

COVERING the heads as well as the roots 
of Roses. The two evils to avoid are pancity 
and excess of covering, and the latter is by 
far the greater evil of the two. Better not 
protect at all than overload the tops of Roses 
with a burden they can hardly bear with safety 
in winter nor get rid of in the spring without 
imminent risk of a chilling check, which might 
result in disease or total destruction. There is 
far less danger from a paucity of covering; in¬ 
deed, our experience would seem to indicate that 
it is hardly possible to cover too lightly. Many 
of the discoveries of our modern science seem a 
well-merited tribute to the potentialities of littles. 
The invisible germ or odour becomes the messenger 
of death or a panoply of safety. In accordance with 
the same general law, though affording far more 
tangible illustration of it, the small handful of 
withered Bracken thrust into the head of a Rose 
tree or bush acquires new significance; and what 
is of even more importance to our present pur¬ 
pose, it ensures the safety of most of our Roses 
against 15° or more of frost. This simple, 
natural substance, which has been mostly over¬ 
looked or neglected until quite recently, forms, 
in fact, our model protection for the heads of 
Roses. It is light, an excellent non-conductor, 
and lasts long enough for our purpose. Its ex¬ 
treme porosity also enables water to pass quickly 
through, and to dry with great rapidity, and 
these qualities render the Bracken well-nigh per¬ 
fect for the protection of the tops of Roses. It 
has been tried against straw, dried Grass, hay, 
long Moss, tree boughs, Ac., and found the 
most efficient and cleanly of them all. Where 
it can be had nothing better can be nsed. It is 
so efficient, in fact, that it ought to become an 
article of merchandise, and be sold by the bag 
or ton like white Sphagnum, peat, Cocoa fibre 
refuse, and other horticultural adjuncts or 
auxiliaries. To secure it in the best condition, 
the Bracken should be cut before it is quite 
ripe, and carefully dried and stored. Thus 
treated, it is far tougher and more durable than 
when allowed to die down naturally, and left in 
the wood or copse or on the heath till wanted. In 
this tough state it may be thrust or twisted into 
the heads of Roses, where it will remain without 
tying, or with one slight tie only. The looser it 
is left in reason the more effective itis asaprotec- 
tion. This, as other protective matters, are often 
made too tight. The smoother and closer they 
are forced together, the less efficient. This is 
almost the only hortioultnral operation in which 
all attempts at neatness must be eschewed. 
Neither is there any better protection for 

Tea Roses on walls or in the open beds or 
borders than a layer from 4 inches to 8 inches 
in thickness of the leaves and stems of this 
common wild Fern. One of the simplest means 


of keeping the Bracken in position is to tie on 
or peg down Spruce, Yew, or loDg Larch 
branches over all. This renders the protection 
wind proof, and ensures its being kept in 
position so long as it is wanted. Where it is 
impossible to obtain this perfect protector, 
other substances may be nsed. In addition to 
those already named, 

Rough cocoa-nut firbe refuse is one of 
the best snbstances for protecting Tea Roses in 
the open. The best of the branches should be 
pegged down, and the whole covered with a few 
inches of rough fibre. This will carry all safely 
through the winter. If sufficient judgment is 
used in uncovering such Roses in the spring, 
they will flower mnch earlier and more profusely 
than if the branches had been frozen down to 
the collars of the plants, as is often the case 
with Teas. As to the time to apply these pro¬ 
tectors to the tops of Roses, much depends oh 
seasons and localities. As a general rale, how¬ 
ever, it is wise to apply them in November, for 
after that time we are never secure against 
sudden and sharp frosts ; and it must be borne 
in mind that it is mostly the first and last frosts 
that kill. In other words, the majority of deaths 
among our tender Roses occur before they are 
protected or after protection is withdrawn; 
hence the wisdom of such mottoes os cover early, 
uncover tentatively, and be in no hurry to with¬ 
draw the last shred of protection in the spring. 
To cover sufficiently early iB often the most im¬ 
portant of all; for it is '.he first frosts that infliot 
the most damage, though the injury is frequently 
not apparent till the next spring or Bummer. 
The foliy of locking the stable after the steed 
has been stolen has passed into a proverb; but 
this is wisdom itself compared to the futility 
and folly of protecting Roses that have been 
already frozen through. Protect early, and thus 
take the first, and perhaps the longest and surest, 
step to protecting thoroughly and well.—D. T. 


10612.— Boeea not blooming. —We 

should think that poverty is the cause of the 
plants not flowering ; the position is favourable 
for them. Top-dress the surface-soil with some 
good stable manure, which may be put on at 
once, and give an occasional soaking of water in 
hot weather. If greenfly appears, syringe with 
soft soap at the rate of three ounces to the 
gallon, dissolving it in hot water.—J. C. B. 
10600.— The Dog Rose from outtlnga. 

—Cuttings taken now (cutting them into pieces 
with about three eyes), would many of them 
strike inserted in light sandy soil in a north 
border; but yon would do better to collect the 
seeds and sow them next March. This is a sure 
and easy way of getting Brier stocks for bud¬ 
ding, much better than by means of cuttings. 
The seeds are ripe now, and should be extracted 
from the pulp, and kept in a cool dry place until 
spring. Thoroughly stir the soil to bring it into 
a mellow state, and choo:- ,g a dry day, rake 
level and draw drills 6 inches apart and half¬ 
inch or so deep. After sowing, tread firmly if 
the soil is light.—J. C. B. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


TRANSPLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Digging the holes.— The principal thing 
in the transplanting of trees and shrubs in 
order to get them to do well is to see that 
proper holes are dug for them, without which 
not only are their roots doubled up and 
cramped and crippled at starting, but they can¬ 
not break through the walls of the confined space 
and get away afterwards, and more particu¬ 
larly does this apply when ground is stiff and 
hard, in which case small holes become full of 
water, and the end is the drowning and ultimate 
loss of the plant. To prevent all these evils the 
best way is to trench or break up the whole of the 
land where much planting is to be done, or if the 
trees are to go far apart to dig holes at least twice 
the size actually required to get in and spread out 
the roots, for though the labour may appear 
great it pays well after, as it will be found that 
plants so favoured make double the growth. Be¬ 
sides digging the holes large, they should be well 
broken np below and have the centres raised, on 
which to place the ball of the tree or shrub to go 
in, the top of which ball ought not to be lower 
than the level of the earth around, as then the 
collar, when the planting is finished, will be the 
same height as before.! T Ur ILLINUI. 


444 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[l)iC 1, 1XK1 


Watering and mulching.—W ith the plant 
in position, the next thing is to lay out the 
roots carefully in a way that they do not 
cross or interfere with each other, whioh done, 
the finest and best of the soil should be thrown 
over them, aud the hole then deluged with water. 
The advantage of giving water in bulk in this way 
is that it carries the earth with it, and fills all the 
cavities in and under the ball, especially if the 
plant be swayed to and fro slightly, which move¬ 
ment settles it snugly and securely in its bed, and 
gives the roots every chanoe of a fair start by 
getting quick hold of the soil. To let the water 
get well away and the earth settle a bit, the 
final filling up of the hole should be deferred a 
few hours, when the remainder may be put in 
its place and levelled, and the job finished. 
With this part completed, a good mulching 
should be given, which not only keeps out all 
frost, and thus prevents injury to the mutilated 
and disturbed roots, but helps materially in 
maintaining an equable condition of warmth and 
moisture, as it intercepts the radiation of the 
one and the loss of the other by evaporation 
brought about by the hard, drying winds, which, 
when a mulching is not used, crack the soil and 
leave it with wide, open fissures. 

Staking.— Another point of great importance 
with newly moved plants is to see that they are 
securely staked or made fast, so as to prevent 
rocking, whioh movement is very injurious, as it 
not only strains the main roots, but, by the fric¬ 
tion it causes, destroys or damages the fibres 
fresh formed. For small plants a single stake is 
sufficient to steady the head if the stake is 
driven in deep, but for those of larger size three 
poles must be used, or which answers as well 
and looks neater, stout cord or galvanised wire, 
either of which may be made fast to stubs in the 
ground, and led to the stem near the top of the 
plaDt. The Btubs to secure the ends should be 
placed eqni-distant, triangular fashion, and lean¬ 
ing from the tree, and be well driven into the 
ground to make them safe, and to fasten the 
wire or string at the ends near the tree. It is 
necessary to have a collar padded with hay or 
an old piece of carpet to prevent chafing the 
bark. A tree steadied in this way, or with poles 
ii a similar position, will stand any amount of 
wind without moving at the base, as whichever 
quarter it blows there is a stay pulling against 
the pressure, and holding the plant erect. 

S. D. 


Cotoneaster Simmonsi.— As a showy 
berry-bearing shrub in early winter this 
Cotoneaster has but few rivals, for it invariably 
bears an abundant crop of berries about the size 
of Peas, and as bright in colour as red sealing- 
wax. Good-sized bushes of it grouped here and 
there enliven shrubberies at this season of the 
year, and sprays of it are useful in extensive 
floral decorations. 


10615.— Shrubs for seashore. -The 
following thrive well near the sea :—Tamarisk, 
Enonymuses,plain leaved and variegated; Sweet 
Bay, Aueubas, Evergreen Oak, Cotoneasters, 
Arbutus, Berberis Aquifolium and Darwini, 
Cupressus macrocarpa and Lawsoniana, Chinese 
and Japan Privets, Buxus balearica, the Yew, 
the common Furze, Laurustinus, the Laburnum, 
Golden Elder, and the Mountain Ash. The 
Tamarisk will thrive even where the salt spray 
dashes over it, and the Euonymus will grow 
freely within a few yards of the sea if out of 
reach of the spray.—J. C. B. 

-Try Aucuba japonica, white and yellow 

Broom, Cotoneaster microphylla, C. Simmonsi, 
Kambucus (Elder) aurea, and many other 
varieties; Escallonia macrantha, Euonymus 
of sorts, Hydrangeas of sorts. Evergreen Privet, 
double flowering Whin, and Lanrestines. Of 
Coniferous trees, Pinus maritima and P. 
anstriaca will stand well. Cupressus Lawsoniana 
and C. macrocarpa also stand the sea air fairly 
well.— J. Robertson. 


10G32.— Yews, Hollies, and Thorns 

from seed.—The seed of these requires to be 
stored for one year previous to sowing, or it lays 
that time in the soil inert. Gather the berries 
at once, and mix them with sand, put them in a 
flower pot, sinking the same in the ground, and 
putting a slate on it to keep out wet, and 
covering with soil. They must remain thus 
until next March twelvemonths, when they are 
to be sown in welj stirred soil in the open 
ground. Choosqja daj, -^rca l [ground before 


se ^ da ^-yead 


sowing, and cover the seeds with about an 
inch of soil.—J. C. B. 

10615 —Shrubs for seashore —In reply to the 
query ot “ M. M ” aa to the best shrubs for gardens near 
the sea, I can confidently state that at Ilfracombe, Escal. 
lontas, Euonymuses, and Hydrangeas grow luxuriantly, 
although the Atlantic gales visit them very often.— 
M. E. B. G. 


FRUIT. 

LATE GRAPES. 

Late sorts of Grapes with long keeping proper¬ 
ties now occupy an important position in nearly 
every garden, and deservedly so, for since the 
practicability of keeping such kinds as Lady 
Downes in really good, plump condition until 
April or May has become an established fact, 
the need for such unreasonably early forcing as 
that which prevailed a few years ago has 
vanished, and that with advantage to both 
Vines and Vine growers. But because some 
kinds of thick-skinned Grapes will keep for six 
months after they aie ripe, it must not be ex¬ 
pected that all varieties will do so. Even in the 
case of really suitable kinds there are various 
items of routine management to be observed in 
order to keep them in anything like perfect con¬ 
dition until spring. I know of nothing in con¬ 
nection with Grape growing on which cultivators 
differ so much as,for instance, the best time to apply 
fire-heat. Some succeed well by starting sufficient¬ 
ly early in spring to have their crops ripe early in 
September, when others are only beginning to 
apply fire-beat, in order to mature their crops— 
well satisfied if they can get their berrieB well 
coloured by the first or second week in October; 
and amongst the large class of cultivators who 
now grow for supplying the market are many 
advocates of this system. They not only have 
to utilise their houses to the utmost to make 
them pay, but the question of cost of fuel is an 
important one; in fact it is the one that decides 
whether profit or loss shall be the result. No 
wonder, therefore, that growers for the market 
prefer applying fire-heat only to ripen the crop 
rather than to forward it in spring, seeing that 
the houses can he utilised to much more advan¬ 
tage as cool shelter places at a time when every 
foot of spaco under cover is valuable. Our 
springs are, as a rule, more trying to vegetation 
than onr winters, and as late Grapes to fetch 
really high prices must be kept well into the 
new year, it follows that fire-heat must be re¬ 
quired for a long period to attain that object. 
There can, therefore, be no need to hasten the 
starting of the Vines by means of fire-heat for 
the latest crops, for the heat will be more pro¬ 
fitably expended in ripening both wood and crop 
in the autumn, for although many state that all 
late Grapes to keepwell should be ripened early, 
I feel sure that this part of the matter is ca¬ 
pable of being overdone. We have lately in Sep¬ 
tember and even in the early part of October had 
warm sunshine in the southern part of the king¬ 
dom, and if onr Lady Downes, Alicantes, &c, 
had been ripe instead of ripeniEg,I do not think 
we could have expected such plump Grapes at 
Christmas as we may now look for. Even with 
the aid of bottling it is not advisable to ent late 
crops from the Vines before Christmas; in fact, 
I prefer the first or second week in the new 
year for thatoperation,and,as to keep the Grapes 
ripe or unripe some fire-heat mast be applied 
from now to that date, it may as well be used 
to finish off both fruit and wood as be applied to 
trait already fully ripe. There is really no 
fear about the thorough ripening of both crop 
and wood in properly heated Vineries, i.e., if the 
crop has commenced to colour by the 1st of Sep¬ 
tember, and a little heat in the pipes just to 
cause the air to be light, dry, and buoyant, and 
a gentle circulation of air on both night and 
day is maintained. If really late kinds like 
Alicante, Barbarossa, and Lady Downes, do not 
keep plump and good until spriDg, no anticipa¬ 
ting their Beason of growth by means of fire-heat 
will make them do so, at least such is my con¬ 
viction, and late heating is decidedly the most 
economical plan. J. 


Planting Morello Cherries.— Now that 
the planting season has jnst arrived, it may not 
be amiss to again remind our readers of the 
great claims of the Morello Cherry for extensive 
planting, aB it is equally prolific as a wall tree or 
as a dwarf bush; in fact it is one of the very few 
fruits that seldom fail. It is, moreover, a fruit 


that may be utilised for covering north walls, 
and by having a few trees on east or west 
aspects also, a succession may be secured. As 
wall trees, the cultivation may be briefly summed 
up as follows; Select dwarf fan-shaped trees, 
and having prepared the soil by trenching, plant 
as soon as possible after the fall of the leaf. Do 
not nail or tie the shoots too tightly the first 
year, but merely fasten them sufficiently to 
prevent breakage by wind; but the following 
autumn the shoots may be firmly secured to the 
wall so as to secure an even spread of branches, 
and as the young shoots are laid in, see that any 
that take the lead much in advance of the others 
are stopped so as to equalise the growth. The 
main points of attention requisite to ensure 
success is early attention to stopping the fore- 
right shoots, that should be pinched as soon as 
they have made five or six leaves, only leaving 
such shoots as can be laid in. The winter 
pruning consists of cutting ont the old bearing 
and dead wood to make room for the yoong 
wood to be nailed in. Keep a sharp look out for 
the black and green-fly, and dust with Tobacco 
powder, or dip the shoots in Tobacco water, on 
the first symptoms of these pests, as if allowed 
to get established, they are very bard to eradi¬ 
cate, and soon spoil the growth of the trees. As 
soon as the fruit gets coloured, put nets over 
them to protect them from birds, as they will 
hang for a long time after they are ripe, and 
when quite ripe are very good as a dessert 
fruit, being mnch relished by those that 
like jnioy fruits in preference to sweet ones 
As bash trees there are few fruits so easy to. 
manage, or so certain to yield a crop of fruit. 
In the first place procure nice evenly shaped 
bushes on the Mahaleb stock, aDd plant from 8 to 
10 feet apart like ordinary bush fruits, and they 
will require but very little pruning or training, 
for the crops they bear soon check anything 
like superabundant vigour, and the less cutting 
with the knife they receive the better. Rather 
light soils suit the Morello well, as the trees 
keep healthy and vigorous far longer in rather 
poor, well-drained soils, than in such as are rich 
and of a retentive character. One great advan¬ 
tage of this mode of culture is the facility with 
which the fruit can be protected from birds by 
fish nets, or, what is perhaps better, a covering 
of wire-netting, fixed on a light framework of 
wood. As a culinary for either kitchen use or 
preserving, the Morello stands unrivalled 
amongst Cherries, as it has thick flesh and a 
6mall stone, and for the manufacture of Cherry 
brandy there is no variety equal to this, and 
even the smallest garden onght to find space 
for one or two bushes of this kind.— James 
Groom, Gosport. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

TALL BORDER PLANTS. 

In planting a mixed border of hardy flowers it 
needs some judgment to place to the best ad¬ 
vantage the very tallest plants, those whose 
height is from 7 feet to 10 feet. The habit of 
the plant, and chiefly the way the leaves grow 
towards the base, will mainly determine the best 
method of treatment. Such a thing as a well- 
grown Hollyhock is a perfect group in itself: 
the flower-spikes rise tall and strong from a 
grand mass of foliage, and the whole growth 
from the ground upwards is a beautiful object. 

It may stand well to the back of the border, but 
nothing large should be before it, that it may 
be seen clear its whole height. Heliauthi;- 
giganteus is one of the finest of the autumn 
giants, but from the ground upwards it displays 
4 feet of naked-looking stem. Helenium autum- 
nale does the same, or worse, for the lower pad 
of the stem is clothed with unsightly-looking, 
withered leaves turned black. In planting these 
it is well to place them so that they rise behind 
other plants of such stature as will best conceal 
their weak points, such as Michaelmas Daisies 
of medium height. , 

Helianthus orgyalis, if seen standing by itself, t 

is an awkward monster, with a preposterously ^ 
lanky look, and must be supported by tall stakes 
that cannot be hidden, but its clear yellow stars 
and delicate leaves are graceful, showing at a 
height of 10 feet or 11 feet behind and above a 
group of another perennial Sunflower that 
blooms at 8 feet or 9 feet. Several of the taller 
plants, difficult to place singly, come well if 
thrown together into a great group, and such a 




Dec. 1*1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


445 



CHRYSANTHEMUM MAXIMUM 
OCT 6 ISS3 


large mass placed at some advantageous point 
in the length of the border cannot, therefore, 
fail in being a tine object. 

In a border jast replanted the great mass for 
next autumn is of the two Sunflowers just men¬ 
tioned (H. orgyalis and giganteus), Physostegia 
imbricate, and Michaelmas Daisies. Past ex¬ 
perience Bhows that it is far the better plan to 
keep together the groups that flower at the same 
season, especially in the case of late autumn 
bloomers, when flowers are becoming few. The 
effect is far finer of a few large flowering masses 
at irregular intervals than of a greater number 
of single blooming plants or groups more evenly 
distributed over the whole extent of the border. 
The eye goes at once to the mass of colour with¬ 
out noticing the deficiency of the intervening 
spaces. _ G. J. 

LARGE OX-EYE DAISY. 
(chrysanthemum maximum.) 

This is an excellent hardy border plant, growing 
2 feet high, and forming a large bush, which for 
two or three months daring summer and autumn 
is a complete mass of blossoms measuring from 
2 to 3 in. across, pure white with yellow centre 
The flowers are excellent for cutting, and the 
plant will grow readily in any common garden 
soil. Fine examples were sent to us in October 
by Messrs. Paul Jc Sons, The Old Nurseries, 
Chesbunt, Herts, from which our drawing was 
prepared. 


! depth of coal ashes. If afterwards thatched 
I with straw, nothing can injure them, and in 
April they may be divided and planted out. 
placing an inverted flower pot over the young 
shoots at night to shelter them from frost. The 
Lobelia fulgens is hardy in some situations in 
mild seasons; but so many perished three years 
ago, that I imagine few people will leave them 
out again just at present. The old form of car- 
dinale was a common bedding plant thirty or 
more years ago, and I remember we kept them 
on the borders of Peach houses, or in similar posi¬ 
tions, where there was the protection of a glass 
roof without any fire-heat in winter. If kept 
moderately dry on the borders of an orchard- 


winters do it no harm, and we are able to cut 
from it in the open borders up to the end of 
November. Any soil not too rich suits it; in 
rather dry poor material I find that the variega¬ 
tion is more clear and defined. I have not 
grown it in pots, but I should say it would 
make a capital plant for mixing with Ferns 
and other fine foliaged plants in the conser¬ 
vatory.—J. C. C. 

10626.— Protecting Pansies — They are 
so hardy as to need no actual protection, but it 
is a good plan to mulch around them with 
decayed manure, leaf-soil, or something similar 
—more especially in the case of newly-planted 
plants, or when they are yet small. Hard frosts 


Wintering Fuohslae, Dahlias, &o — 
Bveryone knows that Fuchsias of the usual 
greenhouse kinds will keep very well in the 
bonier under the protection of a cone-shaped 
mound of ashes 6 inches or 8 inches in thick¬ 
ness, but to many people these little heaps of 
ashes dotted about the border are an eyesore, 
in fact very few would tolerate them, nor need 
i they, for if the roots of the Fuchsias are carefully 
I lifted and laid in some dry corner all together 
land 6 inches of ashes placed over them, 
Ithey will pass through the winter safely, and 
may be planted again in spring in their summer 
quarters straight away without potting or any- 
ing. Dahlias may be wintered in a somewhat 
limilar fashion better, and with more success 
han by the common plan of stowing the roots 
iway in sheds or cellars, where they either get 
iozen or perish through damp or mildew, or else 
kve all the life dried out of them. Select a 
«y spot, cover the roots with, fresh, dry, sandy 
sC, and then add 6 inches ^8 iqgmej^h 


house, with some dry soil sprinkled about and 
amongst them, frost will not injure them even 
if it enters the house. The hardier kinds of 
Echeverias we winter in a cold pit where late 
Melons have been grown, the soil being levelled 
down and the roots of Ecbeveria laid on the 
surface close together, just as they are lifted from 
the beds. In this position they remain without 
covering till April.—E. Hobday. 

Japan variegated Grass (Eulalia 
japonica).—This variegated Grass we find 
useful in many ways. In the mixed border 
amongst herbaceous plants it is a pleasing and 
striking object, and in a cut state for the decora¬ 
tion of large vases it is most valuable, as its 
graceful arching leaves give a degree of bright¬ 
ness to floral arrangements not otherwise 
obtainable. The variegation, too. is clear and 
well defined, a circumstance which adds to its 
beauty. It is a great gain to be able to cut j 
spikes of it 4 feet high for indoor decoration. [ 
Here in the west of England the severest I 


sometimes lift them out of the earth, thereby 
disturbing and oftentimes exposing the roots. 
Mulching prevents this, and does much good in 
other ways.—J. C. B. 

10635.— Watsonias. — It is unfortunately 
only here and there that these Cape bulbs thrive 
in the open ground, for although they are hardy 
enough, y*t they do not appear to be able to 
make headway under the unfavourable conditions 
of our uncertain climate. Where they grow 
naturally the seasons are decisively marked, a 
period of complete rest being followed by a 
genial growing time, so that the bulbs starting 
into growth with great freedom never experience 
a check during their whole period of growth. 
The best place for these bulbs is at the foot of 
a sunny wall, as there they get some protection, 
and the greater amount of heat ripens them, 
better than when planted in an open border 
The most satisfactory way of growing them is 
by planting them out in a cold frame where they 
may be protected against ciimatic. vicissitudes. 










446 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Dsc.tl, 1883. 


as all they seem to need is shelter from excessive 
rainfall and sudden, severe changes, but they do 
well potted in fine soil, wintering them in a 
frame or cool greenhouse.—J. Cornhill. 

Flowers now in bloom in the far 
north.—I have to-day (Nov. 17) gathered from our 
garden (and we are not many miles south of 
John O’Groats) a large basket of flowers, all as 
fresh as possible, the colours more brilliant 
than in mid-summer, and all of them growing 
out-of-doors without the slightest protection, 
consisting of Roses, Carnations (both the tree 
and clove varieties), Ageratum, Dianthus, 
Godetia, Phlox Drummondi, Stocks, Dahlias 
(both single and double varieties), Mignonette, 
Antirrhinums, Pentstemons, Violas, and several 
other flowers, not including Tritomas a~d 
Gladioli, which, always grow with us on our 
northern shores to great perfection.—A. F. S. 


VEGETABLES. 


Tomato growing:.— So much has been 
published during the past few months in Gar¬ 
dening on this subject, that it might seem any 
further contribution on this subject would only 
come ad nauseam. Yet the experiences of an 
amateur — nay, an ignoramus — may be en¬ 
couraging to some disheartened brother, who 
“ seeing may take heart again.” In the spring 
I had a greenhouse built, 12 feet by 10 feet, 
9 feet in the ridge, and by a very liberal con¬ 
signment of plants from a good nursery, I finely 
furnished it, but yet had room for more. Toma¬ 
toes are my weakness, and despite the assurances 
of my gardening friends that they would never 
ripen, I determined to give them a trial. In 
June I sent stamps to a nurseryman, as per ad¬ 
vertisement in Gardening, and in due course 
received a baker’s dozen—thirteen as twelve— 
healthy little plants, neatly packed in damp 
moss, there being five named varieties of shape, 
colour, and flavour. I followed the cultural 
directions on the printed paper enclosed with 
the plants. Two I placed in the open garden, 
one, unfortunately, broke, thus leaving ten in the 
house. I soon had the pleasure, after repotting 
in larger pots twice, of seeing the plants run up 
to the glass. Then commenced a depleting pro¬ 
cess; I selected the strongest looking shoots, 
and ruthlessly cut away all others. The fruit 
came in bunches of threes and fives, which I re¬ 
duced to one and three respectively, and as a 
result, on the ten plants I had 113 well grown, 
ripened Tomatoes. I kept the plants well 
moistened, and finding them gross feeders gave 
a weekly dose of liquid manure, i.e., horse-dung 
steeped in water, kept in an old iron pail. Of 
the two plants placed in the open ground, I can¬ 
not give an equally good account. They only 
produced five Tomatoes, which I cut while still 
quite green, and which ripened after lying on 
the pantry shelves for three weeks. But they did 
not have a fair trial; after planting them out 
ihey received no farther attention, and grew in 
a patch crowded with Sunflowers and Tobacco 
plants; but even under these adverse conditions 
they were useful for the foliage effect. Next 
year I hope to profit by the experience of this, 
and by starting earlier in the season, and not 
pruning so severely or picking off so freely, to 
grow an increased number of fruit. I am sure 
my plants could have safely carried 50 per 
cent, more than I allowed them, and by picking 
some while green and placing them on a shelf 
to ripen, the remainder would come to perfec¬ 
tion.—E. Gauntlett, East DulmicJi. 

Winter and Spring: Broccoli— Every 
precaution should be takeD to preserve these 
from frost, for if once the heads get frozen 
through, they are as a rule useless. By layiDg 
down Broccoli plants before sharp frost sets in, 
one is almost sure to preserve the crop. It only 
takes a short time to lay down a large breadth, 
and anyone can perform the work if shown how 
it should be done. In laying two persons ought 
to be employed. Commencing at one side of the 
plantation, they should take out an opening 
with the spade a few inches in front of the line 
of plants, making the soil level to lay them on. 
Both must put their spades below the roots of 
the plant on the side opposite the opening, and 
turn the plant over upon the soil just levelled, 
pressing it down firmly with the foot, and 
making it lie nearly flat on the ground, for I 
find the nearec^ the top of the I plant is to the 
ground the lei4 is tb. \i> be* damaged by 


frost. Strip the old leaves off to within 6 inches 
or 7 inches of the top, and cover the stems with 
soil as far up as possible. Lay down the second 
plant in the same way, and continue the opera¬ 
tion until the plantation is wholly laid. Broccoli 
should have a good space between the plants, so 
that they may fully develop their leaves, and the 
stems have an opportunity of growing strong, 
for if planted too closely they draw up weak and 
spindly, and the stems become soft and spongy, 
and will be destroyed by frost if greatcare be not 
taken to protect them during severe weather. 
On the contrary, if the plants have plenty of 
room the stems grow strong, and become so well 
ripened, as to withstand frost. I plant a good 
deal of my Broccoli between rows of Potatoes, 
which are 2 feet apart row from row, and after 
moulding up the Potatoes I plant my Broccoli 
from 18 inches to 2 feet apart, which gives 
them plenty of room to make strong plants, 
without which a fine crop cannot be expected. 
By laying my Broccoli in the autumn, I have 
preserved my entire crop of nearly 1000 plants, 
and have lost scarcely one, while other Brassica 
crops have been nearly all killed. If litter from 
the farmyard can be had,.pack it round the 
stems of the plants after they are laid, or, better 
still, dry Fern, if it can be had. I grow the 
following varieties, which, I find, carry me 
through the winter and spring till early in the 
summer, viz : Walcheren, Early White Cape, 
Early Purple Cape, Snow’s Winter White, 
Veitch’s Self-protecting. Carter’s Mammoth, 
Leamington, Adams’s Early White, Knight’s 
Protecting, Carter's Summer, Cattell’s Eclipse, 
and Carter’s Champion. These I have grown 
for several years, and always find them to yield 
good crops.—W. C. 

10628— Largo vegetables.— The fact of 
your vegetables growing so large shows that the 
ground is too rich. This is the more certain 
as you state that the natural staple is a moist 
heavy loam, and the addition of liberal quan¬ 
tities of strong dung would cause a super- 
exuberant development. Try a season or two 
without manure, and you will then probably 
get them of the right size for table use.— 
J. C. B. 

10627— House for Tomatoes. — In 

answer to “W. G.. Brighton,” I should think the 
lean-to house he speaks of would answer every 
purpose. He also asks the question as to 
glazing without putty. I beg to say I have 
made several Cucumber lights, and lights to hang 
on a wall on purpose to grow Tomatoes, and 
have found it. answer remarkably well. I used 
the lead strips which I procured from Messrs. 
Grover k Co., who have advertised in Gardening 
Illustrated ; it is much cheaper than putty, 
and is very easily put on by an amateur.—H. W. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Confirmed. from page 109), 

The Greenhouse. 

SO FT-WOODED PLANTS. 

To the cultivator of limited experience this 
class of plants presents fewer difficulties than 
hard-wooded plants do; not but that skill is 
required to bring out all their strong points, 
but a mistake is not so likely to be fatal, and a 
certain amount of success is pretty sure to re¬ 
ward the efforts of all who possess the necessary 
perseverance. Order and method are always 
valuable qualities, and cleanliness should 
be insisted on in the management of plant- 
houses, as clean pots and stages, and freedom 
from dead leaves and flowers, are essential to 
health. The soil in the pots should never be 
permitted to produce Weeds, Mosses, or other 
vegetable growth other than the legitimate occu¬ 
pants. Where order and cleanliness reigns, 
health is generally present, and where the latter 
is, insects do not often congregate or cause much 
annoyance. Among soft-wooded plants, the 
green-fly is generally the most troublesome, and 
in glasshouses that can be kept close, Tobacco 
smoke is the best remedy. If applied in time, 
i.e., as soon as the presence of the flies is ob¬ 
served, or as soon after as a suitable evening 
can be had, two moderate smokings on two 
separate evenings, with one or two days inter¬ 
vening, will generally suffice to destroy them 
all. Tobacco does not appear to destroy the 
eggs of the insects, so when the plants are 
allowed to become infested, several smokings 


at intervals will be required to clear them 
off. A damp, calm evening is the best for smok¬ 
ing, as the moisture fills up the laps of the glue 
roof and prevents the smoke escaping, and a 
much less quantity will suffice to fill the bouse. 
Smoking plant-houses in dry, windy weather, 
unless they can be covered over with canvas, or 
something to keep the smoke inside, is like 
throwing time and money away. The foliage of 
the plants should be dry at the time of smoking. 

I have tried various substances saturated with 
Tobacco juice for fumigating, but paper, when 
it has been well saturated with the Tobacco 
liquor and dried, is as cheap and good as any¬ 
thing; in fact, it is better than most things 
sold for the purpose. Various contrivances have 
been from time to time offered by enterprising 
people for the burning of Tobacco in its dif¬ 
ferent forms in plant-houses. I have tried a 
good many, but I don't know anything better 
than a strong wire basket woven closely, with 
two or three live coals in the bottom, and the 
paper, which should be pulled into rather small 
pieces, and placed on the coals, completely 
covering them up. The Tobacco paper should 
be placed on the fire before the basket or what¬ 
ever machine is used is taken into the house, 
and when fairly started there is no occasion for 
the operator to remain inside with it. When 
the house is full of smoke so that he can’t sea 
from end to end, he may step inside and remove 
it, bnt otherwise if all goes well he need not 
remain inside. On no account must the paper 
be permitted to flare; if it does, the foliage of 
tender plants will suffer. If the paper is too 
dry, damp it a little with a fine-rosed waterpot, 
and it is always advisable to keep the waterpot 
handy daring the time the operation is going 
on, in case the machine should get too hot. This 
does not often happen in the hands of experi¬ 
enced people, because these know how much 
fire is needed, and also how much paper to place 
on to do the work quickly and well. It is better 
to have a few well grown specimen plants than 
a number of leggy, drawn skeletons that cannot 
be moved for fear of exposing their nakedness. 
No two plants should absolutely touch each other 
on the stages when growing, and of course, if we 
start with a collection of Pelargoniums or any 
other plants in spring, as the season ad¬ 
vances they will require double the amount 
of space if justice is to be done them. And 
the question will come up for decision—shall 
we have a few well-grown plants, or permit all 
to remain and have nothing but clusters of foli¬ 
age bearing a few flowers at the tops ? The proper 
course is to keep gradually weeding out the 
worst plants as the space is required for the best, 
and by frequent change of position take care 
that every side of the plants has a fair share 
of light. It is not often that the thinnings of 
the greenhouse need be thrown away; there are 
usually cold frames which will afford protection 
enough with a covering of mats after the 
middle of March, and sometimes the weedings 
from the greenhouse make excellent plants later 
on when treated to a cool regimen. In the 
majority of greenhouses in the country, espe¬ 
cially in small places, too much artificial heat 
is employed at night when there are no means 
of correcting the aridity of the atmosphere by 
the admission of fresh air. In cold weather, 
ordinary greenhouse plants will take no harm if 
the thermometer falls to freezing point, if the! 
have at no time of their existence been coddled. 
Of course, when the thermometer reaches 32° 
it is verging on the dangerous; but I want to 
impress upon my readers that it is better, in 
severe weather, to permit the temperature to 
fall as low as is consistent with absolute safety, 
than to keep nervously firing away, and by eo 
doing lower the vital principle of the plants, 
and make them fall an easy prey to insects. 
Keep the fire low and steady, at the same time 
consult the barometer and thermometer, so a® 
to anticipate any atmospheric change, and not 
prepare for a cold night by extra firing, and find 
on rising in the morning that a thaw has set 
in. 

Watering. 

This should be done with judgment and care, 
especially in winter, selecting the bright sunny 
mornings, when the lights can be opened to let 
out the damp, to give all that need it a liberal 
allowance. Never water a plant at all without 
giving enough to run through. It is a common, 
fault with young hands to pour a little on Ilia 
top without taking the trouble to ascertain i J 



Dec. 1, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


447 



i 


tS 

q» 

•b 


the whole of the soil is moistened, and after a 
time the ball at the bottom, where all the best 
roots are situated, becomes dust dry. I have 
already said something about 
Ventilation, 

and its importance cannot be overrated, nor 
its influence upon growing plants exaggerated. 
The condition of the air, its relation to the ex¬ 
ternal atmosphere, its purity and aridity, are 
matters of detail requiring careful attention. 
If the chief object is to keep the plants in health, 
then the lowest temperature that will ensure 
regular, steady growth is all that is needed, and 
the night temperature never need exceed 40°, 
and it may fall in extremely cold weather, as I 
have stated, even to 32° without doing much 
harm if there is a little fire going. The best con¬ 
structed houses are not airtight, and in frosty 
weather, or when a keen wind is blowing, suffi¬ 
cient fresh air may get in through the chinks 
and crannies without opening a light at all, and 
cold draughts should always be avoided. 

The Soil 

for soft-wooded plants need not vary much. In 
this respect our fathers very often complicated 
matters by the various ingredients they mixed 
up in their soils. September is a very good month 
for laying in a stock of potting soil, which should 
consist of two-thirds top spit, 4 inches thick, of 
old commons or pasture, and be packed up in 
alternate layers of horse droppings in the pro¬ 
portion I have 6tated, and the heap should be 
built up in a ridge-like form to throw off the wet, 
and should remain for six months, or till the 
grasses are killed. I have for special things used 
horse droppings, with the grit as gathered up in 
the road mixed with it. Carnations,&c , do well 
in this with the usual proportion of loam, and it 
will grow pretty well all soft-wooded plants in 
the greatest perfection. 

Potting. 

Pot firmly in order to ensure a free-flowering 
habit; loose potting leads to gross growth and 
large leaves, but a paucity of flowers accompany 
them always. Shift on young plants before they 
become pot-bound and stunted, as young plants, 
like young animals, seldom cast aside the effects 
of a starved youth. 

The Pelargonium. 

Show and Fancy. 

In treating of the life history of a plant, the 
simplest way is to commence at the beginning, 
which in this case will be with 
Propagation, 

and though cuttings of Pelargoniums may be 
taken and rooted any time, yet, except in the 
case of choice, scarce sorts, the best time is im¬ 
mediately after flowering, when the wood is firm 
and ripe. If cuttings are plentiful, only the 
best need be selected, as the strong cuttings 
always make the best plants. The old stems of 
new or scarce sorts, if cut into lengths of two 
or three joints each, will, in most cases, root and 
make plants, inferior, of course,, to good strong 
leading shoots, but still useful. In certain cases 
cuttings of the roots may be utilised, as the thick 
fleshy roots, cut into pieces an inch or two long, 
and planted thick end upwards about level with 
the surface of the soil, which should be sandy, 
will, most of them, push forth latent buds and 
grow into good plants. Until started, they 
should have, if possible, a little bottom-heat to 
push them on into growth before a loss of vigour 
takes place from drying. The pots and pans of 
cuttings taken from the green shoots will 
strike very well on a shelf near the glass in a 
warm greenhouse, if in an equable state 
as to moisture. Where properly attended to 
in this respect, no shading will be required. 
Cuttings will root in the open air, or in a frame, 
but I have always found those rooted on a shelf 
near the glass in the full sunshine make the 
sturdiest and best plants. 

Potting. 

By October even the latest of the cuttings 
should be rooted sufficiently to pot off if good 
flowering plants are required the next season. 
Sandy loam, with a fifth part of leaf-mould, will 
suit them well at this stage. The pots should 
be proportioned in size to the strength of the 
plants, potting the strongest into what are 
termed large sixties, or about. 1 inches in 
diameter, the small plants—tp have 3-inchjpots; 
but in private places, unless a 1yge rmmberkii 


plants are required, or the kinds are new and 
scarce, it is hardly worth while to pot the weakly 
plants, as they never overtake the others; and it 
is better to grow a moderate number of good 
plants, and do them well, than waste time and 
space over plants that no amount of skill can 
make into good specimens. Every propagator 
knows that even when he has scope for the 
selection of the cuLtings, a certain proportion of 
the plants he raises will be weaklings, and will 
not, if potted, grow into healthy specimens, and 
usually these are discarded at once to save dis¬ 
appointment. Clean pots, careful drainage, and 
firm potting are essential in Pelargonium cul¬ 
ture. The latter item is often disregarded, as a 
plant loosely potted, by its rapid growth at first 
pleases the inexperienced plant grower, and he 
rejoices in his broad foliage; but such plants do 
not flower well. A densely floriferous habit can 
only be secured by fairly firm soil. 

Position and Temperature. 

Pelargoniums must always occupy a position 
near the glass. The house for this class should, 
if it can be done conveniently, be fitted with a 
moveable stage, to be raised and lowered at 
pleasure, dropping it down when the plants open 
their blossoms. But it is specially important 
that during the dark, short days the plantH 
should be near the glass, as it is then that the 
foundation for the future success is laid. As 
growth proceeds, the terminal buds should be 
taken out to induce them to break back and 
assume a bushy habit. The plants should never 
absolutely touch each other on the stage, and if 
the house is a lean-to, they should be frequently 
turned round to keep them well balanced. 
Ventilate whenever the weather is mild and 
calm, but never permit cold currents to blow 
through the house, as if the plants once get a 
check from this, or indeed any other cause, 
greenfly will soon make their appearance, and 
it is only by making a regular, steady progress, 
that really superior results can be obtained. 
Plants that are making active growth all winter, 
and necessarily so, mast have a regular tempera¬ 
ture of about 45° at night. A large amount of 
moisture need not be used, as a damp atmos¬ 
phere would encourage too much leaf growth. 
If the house can be opened a little every day to 
change the air and keep up the circulation, no 
harm will come from shutting out all cold winds 
and draughts, but a benefit will be secured. 
About J anuary the plants should be placed in 
their blooming pots, as it is better to pot early 
and grow steadily. 

Watering 

must be done carefully, as if too much be given 
and the soil becomes sodden, the plants never 
do much good afterwards, and a disease known 
as the “ spot ” can generally be traced, when 
present in a collection, to sluggish root action 
induced by over-watering. The size of pot most 
suitable for one-year plants are 5 inches or 
6 inches in diameter. Very nice little blooming 
plants can be grown in 5-inch or 6-inch pots, as 
when the pots are well filled with roots and the 
flower-buds are pushing up, liquid manure can 
be frequently given. The soil for the last shift 
may be rather richer, and the turf chopped a 
little coarser, ramming it down with the potting- 
stick. At least an inch of clear space should be 
left at the top of the pot to hold water, as very 
liberal supplies will be needed when the plants 
are in blossom. As the days lengthen and the 
sun gains power, the syringe may be advan¬ 
tageously used on bright days, using it in the 
morning at first, but afterwards, as the season 
advances, do it in the afternoon; but the leaves 
must be dry before night, as damp, if it remains 
long on them, may induce decay. Endeavour 
to maintain the plants in robnst health, and 
then the greenfly will not give much trouble; 
but it will be advisable to fumigate occasionally 
as a preventive, even if flies are not present in 
large numbers, and especially just before the 
flowers begin to expand; if done after the 
flowers are open, strong doses of Tobacco smoke 
will make the petals drop prematurely. Very 
little support will be required for plants which 
have been firmly potted and grown near the 
glass, but whatever may be necessary should be 
supplied before the flower-buds open. The 
stakes should be neat and inserted carefully, 
and be kept well within the foliage, so as to be 
inconspicuous. If one stake is enough for a 
plant, no more should be used; but in after j 
years, as the plant gathers size, more training i 


will be needed in order to show the flowers off 
to the best advantage. 

Treatment after Flowering. 

When the flowering is over, stand the plants 
in the open air to ripen the wood and prepare 
them for cutting down. Pelargoniums the 
second year will make handsome specimens, and 
they may be kept in good condition for many 
years, gradually increasing in size. The largest 
specimens may be grown in ll-inch pots. After 
the annual pruning, the plants should be kept 
rather dry till the buds push, which will be in 
the course of a fortnight. When the young 
shoots are half an inch long, shake the plants 
out of the old soil, prune the roots, and repot in 
clean pots as small as the roots can be conve¬ 
niently got into, using nice, sweet turfy soil. 
From this time forward they should occupy a 
light position Dear the glass, and early in 
January be shifted into the blooming pots. In 
this way a collection of really handsome speci¬ 
mens may be kept for many years in single pots 
without any falling off in their beauty or health. 
The round bush shape is the form generally 
adopted as being the most natural, and as a rule 
the form that is the most natural is the most 
appropriate and effective. I remember about 
twenty years ago seeing a number of plants in 
the conservatory at the Botanic Gardens, 
Regents Park, trained as pyramids, and very 
effective they were. They were about 6 feet 
high, and remarkably well furnished. It is just 
possible that some of my readers may have 
noticed these plants. It would take some time 
to grow them to that size, but to my mind it 
seemed a pleasant way ol breaking away from 
the ordinary flat-headed form filled with sticks. 
The pyramids only require one stake in the 
centre; but during the early life of 
the plant the shoots are linked down to the 
pot by strings of matting, and with 
careful management, such plants, when once 
formed, will live in good condition many years. 
I do not say that every variety could be trained 
to form a pyramid 6 feet in height, but all the 
most vigorous growers of the show Pelargonium 
section, and also the zonals, might easily be run 
np to any reasonable height. In starting with a 
young plant, the main stem is tied to a central 
stake, and the manipulating of the side branches 
by pinching and training are all carried out with 
a view to the plants assuming that particular 
shape, at the same time taking care while the 
upward tendency is encouraged, the bottom is 
allowed to make reasonable progress to main¬ 
tain the proper balance. 

Perpetual Pelargoniums. 

Of late years greater notice has been taken 
of a most useful section of perpetual or early 
blooming Pelargoniums, of which the old red 
kind, called Gauntlet, and the white alba multi¬ 
flora may be taken as the type ; though they do 
not come up to the florists’ ideal, yet they are ex¬ 
ceedingly useful for home decoration and for 
cutting very early in the season, when Pelargo¬ 
nium blossoms are very valuable. Their treat¬ 
ment in the main features is similar to those I 
have given above. The cuttings would have to 
be taken and the plants pruned back to suit 
their special season of flowering, and I have no 
doubt that, with the aid of this section, Pelargo¬ 
niums profusely bloomed may be had all the 
year round. The winter-flowering plants will 
require a brisk temperature to keep them moving 
rapidly on, and a light house to build up the 
growth usefully for the object in view. Those 
few autumn bloomers would be best in the open 
air in summer on a coal-ash bed. 

The Zonal Pelargonium. 

This is a race of comparatively modem 
development, and, like the preceding section, 
owes a great deal to the hand of the hybridist. 
The improvement that has taken place in the 
size, shape, colour, and substance of the flowers 
during the last twenty years is something mar¬ 
vellous, and equally rapid strides have been 
made in altering the character of the foliage, 
but all things in time find their proper level, 
and Pelargoniums are no exception to the rule. 
The scarlet-flowered section of Zonal Pelargo¬ 
niums are perhaps the most valuable for decora¬ 
tive purposes. They are now to be had in all 
shades of culour between white and scarlet. 
Some are tinted with purple and yellow, whilst 
Olliers are striped and blotched m a singular 
manner. From this large section have been 


448 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Dec. 1, 1883. 


drawn all the best bedding varieties as well as 
the large trussed varieties,which are so valuable 
for pot culture, and which, by a judicious selec¬ 
tion of varieties, may be had in bloom all the 
year round. For autumn and winter, young 
spring-struck plants grown in the open air all 
summer in the full sunshine will produce the 
finest trusses. They should not be overpotted, 
and the last shift should be given not later 
than the first week in August. The plants 
should either stand on a coalash bed, or on 
bricks or boards, so that worms cannot enter. 
Worms in a pot are something like the prover¬ 
bial bull in the china shop—soon do a lot of mis¬ 
chief, even if expelled as soon as their presence 
is noticed. During the summer all flower buds 
should be picked off and the terminal growth 
bud pinched out of the most vigorous shoots, to 
induce a dwarf, sturdy habit. They should be 
housed in a warm, light greenhouse in September, 
where they can occupy a position close to the 
glass. A light span-roofed house is the most 
suitable. The second year such plants, if potted 
in a fibry loam and a little old manure, will 
make grand summer and autumn plants for con¬ 
servatory, or for vases in the open air, or to form 
groups in some sunny corner. The 

Scented-leaved Pelargoniums. 

These should be cultivated in every garden for 
their beautiful foliage to mix with cut flowers, and 
many—indeed most—bear very pretty flowers 
in addition to their sweet foliage, and the Ivy- 
leaved section, which has increased in variety and 
beauty so much of late years, is indispensable 
for basket work and for planting in beds and on 
rockeries, and other positions in the open air, or 
for clothing low walls, or trellises, or pillars. 
Those who have only grown these and the pre¬ 
ceding section in pots can form no idea of their 
rapid growth when planted out under glass. A 
10-feet high wall is covered in about three years 
in a most delightful manner with glossy green 
foliage, sprinkled over with various coloured 
flowers, when a mixture of kinds are planted. 

The Cape Pelargoniums, 
with woody stems, in some instances armed with 
spikes, are very pretty for button holes or bouquet 
makmg. They were much more common years 
ago than they are now, even with the revival 
which has taken place lately, and they, or at 
least the best of them, are probably destined to 
come to the surface again. Though lists of soft- 
wooded plants may not possess the value that 
would attach to more permanent things by 
reason of the constant change which is going on, 
yet I have thought very short and select lists 
may be useful to some of my readers, and there¬ 
fore I append the following 

Varieties. 

Shorn Pelargoniums.— Crusader, Criterion, De¬ 
vastation, Diana, Dictator, Icelander, Illumina¬ 
tion, Majestic, Silvio, Symmetry, Archduke, 
Aurora, Challenger, Enchantress, Judith, 
Kathleen, Mrs. A. Matthews, Mountaineer, 
Dachess, Rising Sun, Ruth, Blue Bell, Achieve¬ 
ment, Doke of Cambridge, Claribel. Consequence, 
Chameleon. Highland Lassie, King Charles, 
Maid of Honour, Purple Gem, Robin Hood, 
Troubadour, Sunray, Mary Hoyle, and Hector. 

Fancy Pelargoniums. —Jannette, Miss Emily 
Little, Mrs. Milne Home, Silver Cloud, Thnrio, 
Phyllis, Clementine, Ann Page, Rosy Mom, 
Countess of Dudley, Duchess of Edinburgh, 
Acme, Princess Teck, Bridesmaid, Mrs. Ford, 
Juliet, Decision, Lucy, Mrs. Dorling. 

Regal Pelargoniums .—These are very showy. 
Beauty of Oxton, Queen Victoria, Princess of 
Wales, Mdme Thibaut, Prince of Novelties, 
Marie Angus, Dr. Masters. 

French Spotted Pelargoniums .—Achille Richard. 
Mdme. Charles Konig, Graham Bell, Prince 
Arthur, Gloria Patriae, Midas, Duchess of Edin¬ 
burgh, Digby Grand, Perle Blanche, Fire King, 
Triomphe de St. Mande, Prince Charlie, Magnet, 
Kingston Beauty, Mrs. L. Lloyd, Firebrand, 
Marie Lemoine, Hebe. 

Early-fUnrerring or Forcing Pelargoniums .— 
Rosea multi flora, Decorator, Defiance, Zulu Belle, 
Criterion, Vivid, Charles Oufcram, Miss Brad¬ 
shaw, Mrs. Bradshaw, The Moor, Gloire de Paris. 

Zonal Pelargoniums for pot culture in winter. 
— Comtnander-in-Chief, Guinea, Beatrix, Colonel 
Seeley, H. M. Pollett, Lizzie Bjrooks. Kleon, 
David Thompson, MprvWi itl<wj Polyphemus, 


Alonzo, Gnome, Dr. John Denny, White Clipper, 
and Lady Sheffield; Vesuvius in various shades. 

Though young plants produce the finest 
trusses, older plants that have stood out-of-doors 
all summer, and are hard and well ripened, will 
produce a greater quantity of bloom for cutting 
if introduced to a high temperature in Decem¬ 
ber. And as in this case the plants are simply 
grown for cut flowers, they can be placed in a 
warm, light corner of the stove or some forcing 
house, where a night temperature of 60° is kept 
up. Years ago I have forced the old Tom Thumb 
in this way, selecting old plants that had been 
starved in the sunshine. Shorten them in a bit, 
and then push them on in heat, but the various 
forms of Vesuvius force well and many others. 

Rouble Zonal Pelargoniums. —Wonderful, 
Emily Laxton, Meteor Flag, Gambetta, F. V. 
Raspail, Mrs. Charles Pearce, Una, Coquette, 
Jules Simon, Marie Lemoine, Madame Thibaut, 
Violet, Bellona, President Leon Simon, Cajsar 
Borgia, Floribunda, Maud, Henry Cannell, 
Souvenir de Castille, General de Galliffet, 
Aurora, Heroine, Alba perfecta, Candidissima 
plena. Progress, Enchanting. There are such an 
immense number of doubles in cultivation now, 
the work of selection is somewhat difficult to 
secure the best in each colour. 

Scented-leaved Pelargoniums. — Lothario, 
Grandis odorata, Capitatum, Little Gem, Querci- 
folium, Q. minor, Fair Ellen, Tomentosum, 
Prince of Orange, Lady Mary, Shottesham Pet, 
Lady Plymouth, Crispum, Denticulatum majus, 
Filicifolia odorata, Radula minor, Radula major, 
Pheasant’s-foot, Unique in several colours. The 
above section, when well grown, will be most 
interesting and useful. 

Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums .— Mont Blanc, 
Madame Crousse, Lucy Lemoine, Konig Albert, 
A. F. Barron, Viscountess Cranbrook, Rosette. 
The above produce double flowers. Mrs. George, 
Diadem, Gem, Bridal Wreath, Argus, Innocence, 
Mrs. H. Cannell, Alice Lee, Dolly Varden, Pel- 
tatum elegans. 

Hybrid Cape Pelargoniums. — Echinatum, 
Rosy Morn, Erectum, Spotted Gem, and Beauty, 
a hybrid from Echinatum. This class should be 
shook out and repotted in spring for autumn 
and winter forcing. E. Hobday. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

10638.— Pruning nuts. —“J. P. K.”seeksfor 
information as to how to prune Nuts and Filberts, 
and states that his trees are probably fifty years 
old. The best advice I can give him, is to start 
afresh with good strong young trees, for such 
old ones would require cutting to the ground to 
get them into form. The way Nuts are pruned 
and treated in Kent, where the finest Nuts that 
go to the London markets are grown, is as 
follows Stout young bushes are planted from 
16 feet to 20 feet apart in plantations of young 
bush fruits, and the central shoots are cut out 
at the first winter’s pruning and continued 
annually until an open, cup shaped bush is 
formed. Only the shoots that point in an outward 
direction are retained, and care is taken to prune 
the leading shoots to a bud pointing in an out¬ 
ward direction. The little wiry twigsare retained, 
and bear very fine fruits even on very young 
bushes and when the bushes are fully grown, so 
that the outer branches nearly meet each other, 
it is surprising the quantity, and more especially 
the weight, of crop they carry; for the Nuts 
grown on unpruned trees cannot compare with 
those on these dwarf spreading bushes. I may 
mention that they are kept to about 6 feet high, 
so that a man can easily reach them. All suckers 
are broken off at the heel, and strong growing 
shoots are snapped off when in full growth in 
summer, to throw all the strength of the bush 
into the crop and bearing wood for another 
year. The catkins are the male blossoms, and 
the small pink tufts are the fruit blossoms. As 
they naturally flower very early in the year, they 
are probably capable of withstanding a consider¬ 
able amount of frost, if dry; in fact, dry windy 
weather when in bloom appears to assist in set¬ 
ting a crop of Nuts.— J. G., Hants. 

10633.— Manuring poor soil.— After the 
couch is cleared off, “ Novice,” would do quite 
right in trenching the land. If the soil be very 
poor, stable manure, at about four or five barrow 
loads to the rod, would be the best to commence 


with. After it is in good heart, one barrow 
load, with half a bushel of soot per rod, would 
give the best results for the outlay—especially 
if the cost of carting be considerable. Although 
soot does not contain all the materials that 
plants require for their growth, yet it is an 
excellent stimulant, and has the advantage of 
being a preventive of insect pests. As to the 
amount of salt per rod to be applied, that 
depends upon the kind of plants to be grown on 
it, and also on the quantity of salt already in 
the soil. Asparagus and Seakale, require for 
their healthy growth applications of salt that 
would destroy some other garden vegetables. 
Some lands are sufficiently manured with salt 
for ordinary crops by the winds that blow 
from the sea. Dr. Madden says that at 
Penicuik, near Edinburgh, the rain that falls 
contains so much common salt as to convey 
640 pounds to every acre of land in a year. 
—L. C. K. 

- It is scarcely possible to make fertile in 

one year a soil such as that described. To have 
this end accomplished, however, as speedily as 
possible, I would recommend the garden to be 
treated in the following manner: Manure now 
with horse and cow manure at the rate of 30 tons 
per acre, by spreading it evenly over the surface 
and digging deeply in, removing at the same 
time as many of the weeds as possible. Then 
top-dress with gaslime at the rate of 20 tons to 
the acre, and allow it to be exposed to the action 
of the atmosphere till the end of January next, 
when an application of 8 hundredweights kainit 
and 6 hundredweights dissolved bones or super¬ 
phosphate per acre should be made. When you 
begin to prepare for sowing or planting, use only 
a four-pronged fork instead of a spade, in order 
that the top-dressings may not be put too much 
under. Apply 3 or 4 hundredweights sulphate 
of ammonia or nitrate of soda per acre at time 
of sowing or planting, and a similar quantity a* 
a top-dressing at midsummer, if necessary. Let 
the salt remain where it is.— Heather Bell. 

10647. — Restoring: Araucarias. — 
“ H. W. D.” asks what can be done with Arau¬ 
carias, the lower branches of which are turning 
brown. I fear nothing will save those branches 
that have commenced to turn yellow, but the 
best course would be to top-dress the roots with 
fresh soil so as to keep the others healthy. The 
best material I have tried for this purpose is old 
potting soil, or that from worn-out Cucumber 
and Melon beds. It may be spread on two or 
three inches thick all round the tree as far as 
the branches extend ; it will all work in by the 
spring, and a decided improvement will be visible 
in the growth of the tree next year. At Drop- 
more, where some o f the finest Conifers in the 
kingdom are grown, this system of top-dressing 
is largely practised.—J. Groom, Gosport. 

10644.—Wintering Coleuses— There is 
no difficulty in wintering Coleuses if sufficient 
heat is available, for no plants are easier grown 
if a temperature of from 55° to 60° can be 
maintained; but in a cool house, the first few 
nights that the thermometer sinks below 40° 
settles their fate, the leaves drop off, and the 
plant dies outright. The best plan I have found 
of keeping a stock is to put in a potful of cut¬ 
tings of each variety in September, and get them 
well rooted before the dark days come on, ami 
place them on a shelf near the glass in the 
warmest corner of the stove or heated pit. They 
will keep growing gently through the winter, 
and if potted off in March, will make fine speci¬ 
mens by May, and give plenty of cuttings.— 
James Groom. 

10652.— Plantains on lawns.-- We have 

found oil of vitriol good for destroying plantains 
on lawns Pour the vitriol into a small vessel— 
a tin can is a good thing to carry in the hand- 
then get a piece of iron sharpened at one end. 
and dip it in the vitriol and insert in the crown of 
the plantain. The vitriol should be used with 
care, as it destroys all vegetation that it comes 
in contact with.— J. Betty. 

10611.—Mushrooms for market-—The j ar* 
largely grown in sheds by market growers, the beds being 
made up in autumn. Mushroom growing is certainly 
one of the most profitable of gardening industries, when 
the grower Is master of liis work—J. C. B. 


Tyro. —Both house and pit may be used for tho same 
purpose, and may be exactly the same in construction, 

except that the pit Is Bunk in the ground.- J. V. IT— 

There ig r>o good book *t present of the nature yon re- 

HMLnJi l 


Dec. 1, 1883.] 


gardening illustrated 


449 


G. H. B .—Well sponge with Qishurst compound or 
soft soap and Tobacco water, also scrub the stems. When 
well cleaned examine the plant weekly until you get rid 
of the scale. 

Names of plants-— Rochester. — The leaf sent 
appears to be that of Paulownia imperial!®, but it is Im¬ 
possible to tell for certain if it ia really that plant. If it 
be the Paulownia, it is a rather tender, small tree that 

rarely flowers in this country.- R. Garland. —1, 

Acalypha tricolor; 2, Campylobotrys Ghiosbreghti; 3, 
Lomaria gibba ; 4, Grevillea robusta.- F. w 'alls.— 

I, Cypripedium inaigne; 2, Altemanthera paronychtoides; i 
3* Begonia (aend when in flower) ; 4, Alocaaia metallica. 

_ Gam. —Rhododendron jasminittonim.- C. James. 

-1, Nephrolepsia exaltata; 3, Aspidistra lurida; 6, 
Isolepis gracilis ; 7, Lycaste aromatica; 9, Phlebodium 
aureum ; our rule is to name but four plants at one time. 

- A. Z .—Phtladelphus coronarius varlegatus (varie- 

Rated); name of Coronilla next week ; others cannot be 
named without flowers. D. L .—Hakea f-uaveolens. 

J. M. P.— We do not name varieties of Chrysanthemums ; 

they should be sent to some specialist.- J. B. B.— I, 

Lychnis Glthago; 4. Centaurea Cyanus; 5, Achillea 
Millefolium ; 7, Pyrethrum Parthenium ; our rule ia to 

name but four plants at a time.- M. E. B. G .—Aloe 

socotrana.- E. A ., Butterton.— 1, AspRnium Trlcho- 

manes ; 2, Davollia canariensis ; 3, Aspidium aculeatum. 

_ Spots and Blots.— 2, Rhododendron prrecox ; 4, Pfcerls 

serrulata cristata ; 6. Selaginella Mertensi; 8, Adlan turn 

fnlvum.- Mrs. Bell.— Senecio Jacobica.- Ingram — 

Hiemanthus pubesceus.- F. H.—l, Veronica Chamre- 

dryB ; 2, Sedum reflexura ; 3, Saxifraga cajspitosa; 4, not 
Orange Illy; cannot name from root only. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents.—^ II communica¬ 
tions Jot insertion should be clearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
and address of the sender is required , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and tide 0 / the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a sefxirate piece qf jxiper. Owing to the necessity qf 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
dan of publication, it is not pos.dbU to insert queries and, 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

Naming: plants .—Four plants, fruits, or flowers only 
can be named at one time, and this ordy when good 
sveeimens are sent. We do not. undertake to name 
varieties ofjtorists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias , Geraniums, 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
specialist who has the means qf comparison at hand. A ny 
communication respecting plants or dowers sent to name 
should always accompany the parcel. 


l «n._ixias and Sparaxis In windows —Will 
some reader be so kind as to tell me how to manage Ixtas 
and Spamxis iu a sunny window *'t Ou January 3,1883,1 
potted a choice named collection, using as compost a 
mixture of fresh maiden earth, leaf-mould, sand, and a 
little well-rotten manure. I placed the pots in a very 
large, sunny window. They all came up well, but, I 
should sav, not very strongly, went on growing, but never 
bloomed. About July the leaves began to turn yellow, 
so I gradually dried them off. They got no water from the 
time the leaves quite disappeared, which was about the 
middle of September. About a fortnight ago I perceived 
that they were pushing—the Ixias being the most for¬ 
ward—so I commenced watering them. 1 wish to know 
what lias been wrong in my treatment. “ J. D.,” in one 
of his papers, stated that they did well in pots in a 
window. I tried them before this in the open ground, 

t, a t_as I feared would be the case—our soil and climate 

are too cold and damp for them.—Q. Q. 


10392 .—Scale on Pear trees.—I have a Louise 
B ;mne Pear planted against a west wall, and which has 
become almoBt covered with a small bluish-brown sub¬ 
stance. It is thickest on the old wood, but spreads 
yearly on the last year s growth, and shows itself also on 
the leaf-stalks and fruit. I had only about two dozen 
fruit this year, all under-sized, and many quite small, 
and these were all speckled with the same disease. I am 
disposed to think it a species of scale, but it has been 
examined under a microscope, and shows no sign of 
life. I have just had all the soil removed from the 
roots which I found had made their way into the green 
sand' (which is the subsoil here), and have had all this 
removed, and the space filled in with sandy loam, leaf- 
moold and rotten manure. This, I hope, may tend to 
Kt«*ntrthen the tree, but I shall be glad to hear of any 
farther remedies.—E. W. F. 

10693 — Plants Injured by manure water.— 
About a fortnight ago some Strawberry plants in pots in 
the irreenhouse were watered with manure water made 
frrtm cow manure, and some Rose trees in pots in the 
qouse were watered in like manner. The leaves of 
raw berry plants have gone brown as if burnt, and 
Rose leaves are falling off. Was the manure water 
strong for Strawberry plants and Rose trees? Will 
be likely to recover if properly treated ? Have I 
, ZrL right in removing about an inch of soil from the 
of each pot Strawberry plant (where the dung lay 
9 5 ^7.Tt the thickness of a shilliug), syringing the crowns 
*11 with rainwater, and scattering a little sand on the 
__ where the soil was previously removed? Will it 
with the Strawberries fruiting? Will the 
man ure water have killed my Roses?—A. K. 

_Moss litter as manure.— I have been 

h tables In London moss litter in placoof straw, 
rusin*r * t he horse droppings, seems to me to make a 

wlncn. manure, and which I have taken to my 

very K rj-fte market gardeners, however, refuse to take 
^rvroeii- d say breeds insects. No doubt they prefer 
K straw, which they use for covering over plants, 

V) na ve e u a9 for manure. The straw dealers are also 
tc -» Head against it. Can any reader tell me any- 

2f aJC iLb'>tit the moss litter as manure? — An Old 
SSscriber. 


Google 


10695.—Insects in Mushroom beds.-Six weeks 
ago I made a Mushroom bed in my cellar. On looking at 
it the other day I saw some Mushrooms coming up, 
and at the same time found the bed covered with wood 
lice and other insecta. Whence do these proceed? I 
used freBh horse manure and covered with clean 
straw, aud the cellar was recently lime washed. Can I 
get rid of these insects, and how am I to avoid them in 
the future ; will they eat the Mushrooms or spawn ?— 

J. W. B. 

10696. — "Wintering: large Geraniums. — How 
ought I to treat my large Geraniums in pots now ? They 
have been flowering in a conservatory all the summer, 
aud are run up rather stalky, the leaves now turning 
yellow. I want them for the same purpose next summer. 

I could just keep the frost out of the conservatory, or I 
have a heated vinery where they could be kept growing 
if that would be better.—A. M. C. 

10697.— Building a greenhouse.— If a low one is 
required, I should think a turf wall would do as well as 
wood or brick, if turf is handy. Or the four-ply water¬ 
proof paper sold by the Willesden Junction Company 
would be cheap and easily put up, and they would give 
the dimensions of timber required. Messrs. Wain- 
wright’s glass, often advertised in this paper, is very 
cheap and cut to order.—S tketton. 

30C98 —Chinese Peeoniea.—I should like to know 
something about Chinese Pteonles. I bought some three 
years ago ; I think I paid is. a bulb for them, hut I have 
never had any flowers from them. I have now taken 
them up, aud intend to try them in a very warm 
sheltered corner, but before doing that I should like to 
know more about them. Would they grow under glass, 
or in pots ?—PA20NY. 

10699. — Heating greenhouse.—I have a weU- 
built greenhouse 14 feet by 10 feet, ridge 8 feet high, 
eaves 7 feet, glass front. It is heated by a good flue, but 
it requires so much attention, aDd consumes a lot of 
coal. Therefore, I wish someone would tell me if a slow 
combustion stove will do to be put inside, or what would 
be the beat way to heat the house more economically.— 
No vice. 

10700 .—Walnut trees —If you are prepared to go 
to some trouble you Bhould prune the roots, that is all 
large ones outside a radius of 9 feet from the tree ; dig 
in a little fresh soil round the tree ; if mossy, paint it 
over with paraflln oil, and in spring when it is in flower 
give it a dose of liquid manure. This applies to fruit 
trees generally.— Strktton. 

10701 .—Kainit.—This German manure is cheap, and 
on some soils, I believe, effective. On ours—a stiff clay 
—we tried it for Potatoes, but though it produced 
luxuriant tops, yet leaf manure beat it altogether in 
tubers. I believe Boot to be as useful and powerful a 
garden fertiliser as any that I know of, but perhaps In 
towns one may get too much of it,—S tretton. 

10702 .—Pyrethruma, Anemones, &C.—I sowed 
some double Pyrethrura, Scabious, and Auemone seed 
last August in boxes in a cold frame. The Pyrethrums 
are turning yellow as if about to die down. The 
Scabious and Anemones are still growing vigorously, and 
are gr^en and healthy. Will they thrive in the frame 
all through the winter ?—E. C. 

10703 .— Climbers for unheated greenhouse 
—We have a conservatory facing south, 9 feet 6 inches 
high, about 12 feet long, and 10 feet wide, leading from 
the drawing room. Kindly say what climbers would do 
well on the two side walls, it is not artificially heated, and 
we do not propose to do more than put in a small stove 
to keep out frost.—J. H. 

1070 L—Creepers for lobby.—I have two glass 
lobbies at the front and back of my house, facing 
Bouth-east and north-west. I want to grow creepers 
In them; those bearing bloom preferred. Would a 
Tacsonla do well? What kind of Rose tree would do 
best for either of these positions ?—J. W. B. 

10705 —Ferns in windows.—I have had two terra 
cotta Fern-cases covered with glass globes full of Ferns, 
standing all summer in a room window where there has 
been no Are at alt Can any reader give me any directions 
how to keep them through the winter, also one large Fern 
in a pot in the same window ?—SPIVINOS. 

10706 -Culture of Hyacinths.—I should feel 
obliged for some information respecting the propagation 
and cultivation of Hyacinths. I have seen some with 
magnificent flowers, but have failed to grow anything 
like them myself. How do the Dutchmen manage to 
propagate them when we cannot ?—HYACINTH. 

10707.— Lawn sand.—Will anyone who has tried 
Watson’s lawn sand, or any other of the same description, 
be good enough to tell me whether it has been found of 
benefit in eradicating weeds from lawns, and whether it 
njures the Grass? I should also be glad of instructions 
for applying it.—GIROFLE. 

10708 — Propagating Chrysanthemums. — I 

wish particularly to know what time cuttings of Chrysan 
themums should be taken from the old plants, and if 
hand glasses should be kept over the cuttings till rooted. 
—A Constant Reader. 

10709.—Planting water plants.—I am anxious to 
plant Flags and Bulrushes in a pond in my garden.which 
has recently been cleaned out and repuddled. How had 
I better do it ? Is this the time of year for it, and where 
can I procure plants?—B urkham. 

10710 .—Climbers for east aspect.—At the hack 
of my house there is a high wall facing east, a part of 
the house itself, sheltered on three sides, but open to 
the north. Can any reader inform me whether climbing 
Roses, in pots, will grow there, also the best sorts, aud 
the size of the pot required ?— Hybrid. 

10711 .—Portable frames.—Can any reader suggest 
a suitable means of bolting together frames? A portable 
frame Bhould be easily and quickly taken apart. Some 
are easily taken to pieces, but 1 have not one that can 
be quickly done so .—amateur Builder. 

10712. —Sulphate of ammonia.—In what propor¬ 
tion should the above be used for plants in pots, and how 
often ?—S. V. W. 


10713.—Fruit tre©3 on lawns —I propose to put two 
pyramid Pear trees on thelawn, about a dozen Gooseberry 
trees, six black and six red Currants. What sorts would 
be likely to be most productive in this locality?—J. H., 
South Norwood. 

10714.—Jeesamine and Violets.-Will someone 
teU me how white Jessamine trees are to be pruned, at 
what time, and how much wood is to be taken off ? I 
have a large bank of Violets, but get no flower; what can 
I do to induce the plants to bloom ?—A. F. 

10715.—Thuja Lobbi for hedges.—Will “ J. C. 
B.” kindly say if Thuja Lobbi will do lor hedges near a 
town, and where a supply may be obtained, as I have 
consulted local catalogues and cannot find it 1—E.jW. 
Leeds. 

10716 — Blowing up tree stumps.—Would it be 
possible to use dynamite for blowing the stumps of some 
old Elms out of the ground ? Would it be better than 
gunpowder? Is it safe? How can it be bought, and 
how used with safety by unskilled operators?—E. J. 

10717.—Cutting: down Rose trees.—I have a 
Gloire de Dijon Rose which has grown very rampant at 
top, but very bare at bottom, which I propose to cut 
down as low as can be. When will be beat to do it ? 
Now or in the spring ?—Rose. 

10718 — Best Chrysanthemums.—Will someone 
kindly tell me the names of about twenty-five of the best 
sorts of Chrysanthemums for an amateur to grow—large 
sorts mostly preferred ?—Anxious to Know. 

10719.—Growing: Cucumbers —I have built a 
greenhouse for growing Cucumbers. There is a raised 
bed 1 foot above the flue. Would the bed be better on 
the flue so as to give a stronger bottom-heat ?—T. E. 

10720.—Grafting: Chrysanthemums.—I wish to 
graft some Chrysanthemums. Will someone kindly give 
some information as to how to do it, and at what stage 
they should be done ?—S. K. 

10721. — Propagating: Indlarubber plants.— 
When is the best time for taking cuttings from India- 
rubber plants kept in a conservatory, and do they re¬ 
quire any particular soil and treatment ?—Lorenzo. 

10722.—Green fly.—Will extract of soap kill green 
fly, and will It hurt young plants of Pelargoniums and 
Fuchsias? Any advice will be thankfully received.— 
J. V. W. 

10723.-Bulbs for forcing:-—Will some reader give 
a list of bulbs that force weU besides Hyacinths, Tulips, 
and Narcissi, and what temperature is proper lor 
forcing ?—Tyro. 

10724.—Moving: greenhouses.— I have a small 
greenhouse built with brick, out of which I get a part of 
my living. Can my landlord stop me from moving it ? 
Quiz. 

10725.—Apples speckled.—My Apple trees (this 
being a very old garden) bear fruit much speckled. Can 
anyone advise me how to remedy this?—J. W. B. 

10726.—Making an Asparagus bed.—I want to 
make a fresh Asparagus bed. Wnen and how shall I 
do it?-J. W B. 

10727.—Carrier pigeons.—Can anyone inform 
me of a good work on the rearing, training, and manage¬ 
ment, of carrier pigeons?—E. W. C. 

10728. -Bulbocodiums.—My Bulbocodiums are 
all coming through the ground. Will protection with 
coal ashes save them from the winter’s frost.—Q. Q. 

10729.—Refuse as manure.—What is the cheapest 
and best way to turn all kinds of garden refuse into 
good manure for a garden ?—W. 

10730.—Scotch Roses.—Will It injure or prevent 
the blooming of Scotch Rose trees to cut off straggling 
branches ?—A Constant Reader. 

10731.—Destroying Whin.—I have a field thickly 
covered with Whin. Could some reader state what is the 
best means of getting rid of it?—H. P. 

10732.—Hardiness of Lilies.—Are fulgidura and 
longiflorum quite hardy; also what colours are the 
flowers, and to what height do they grow ?— Mrs. B. 


BIRDS. 

Canary unhealthy —In reply to the 
questions of a •• Constant Reader ” respecting 
his canary being unhealthy, it is possible it may 
be affected with the red mite, to discover which, 
cover up the cage at night with a white cloth, 
and in the morning you will see the tiny red 
mites on the cloth. To get rid of these pests, 
dust the bird with insect powder, wash the cage 
with scalding water, and keep it dusted with 
the insect powder. It is also a good plan to give 
the bird a bath ; have the water tepid, and put 
some flowers of sulphur in it. This is to be 
repeated every other day. Give the bird a little 
tonic or sherry in its water, two or three drops. 
Let it have Groundsel or any green food you can 
get, canary seed, and Inga seed. We have had 
a bulSnch much afflicted with red mite, and by 
persevering in the above treatment hare nearly 
cured him.—M. 8. 

InBeots on Biskin.—I have a siskin which 
was troubled with vermin, and I consulted a 
popular book on birds, so that I might be able 
to get rid of the pests. That authority said, 
"both cage and bird Bhould be washed with 
linseed or rapeseed oil.” I followed these in¬ 
structions out to the letter, and although 1 have 
no doubt it has rid me of the parasites, it has 


450 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


rr>EC. ], 1883. 


left the bird in a most uncomfortable position. 
I have washed it with lukewarm water, but 
without producing any marked result. Can any 
one advise me what to do to get the oil out of 
the birds feathers?—R. Bruce. 


POULTRY. 


Food for poultry. — I read with much 
interest “ Andalusian’s ” remarks on the change 
of food for poultry in Gardening of the 10th 
inst. There are, however, a few points in which 
I do not agree with him. I should like to give 
good sound wheat the leading position in feed¬ 
ing, at least when it is as cheap as it is now. 
This is a good food, both for the heavy and the 
lighter breeds. The second place I should give 
to maize for the small, and buckwheat for the 
large breeds. I like barley as food, but I find 
that every time we increase the barley feeding 
—having perhaps run out of some other grain— 
the laying is seriously affected. I have remarked 
this several times, and shall be glad to hear if 
anyone else has observed the same thing. 
Last of all, I should advise from early October 
till end of March to mix with the morning meal 
a little boiled meat, cheap offal from the butcher, 
bullock’s tripe, or liver, or anything in that way, 
cut up fine and given two or three times a week. 
From half-an-ounce to one ounce is quite suffi¬ 
cient for each bird. It will be a great help in 
many ways, but see that it is not overdone. 
Meal, grain, a little animal food, and let the 
fowls have a grass run, or if not, a constant 
supply of nice fresh green food, and see what 
they will do in the way of laying if you have 
the right sort. Look well after its little com¬ 
forts, and you will be repaid over and over by 
the frequency of its cackle, telling you of another 
addition to your store of new laid eggs, which, 
at the present time of the year, are worth picking 
up.— Manager op St. Leonards Poultry 
Farm, Ilivgwood . 

Oross-bred fowls.— With reference to 
“Andalusian’s” note in Gardening, October 
27, may I ask whether the experience of others 
agrees with his, viz., '* that no cross-bred fowls 
can compete in eggs with pure Minorcas, Anda¬ 
lusians, or Leghorns.” I have but lately tried 
these; but with other strains — Cochins, Brahmas, 
Houdans—my experience was that, for eggs and 
table, the j udicious first crosses were best. Again, 
as between Minorcas and Leghorns—which are 
better and more profitable for eggs and table? I 
generally see the preference given to Minorcas, 
and I meant to keep them only; but of two 
pullets, one Minorca and the other Leghorn of 
a rather late hatch, the Leghorn laid a nest of 
eggs, beginning from October 1. The Minorca 
has not laid yet, and the Leghorn appears 
likely to lay again. Is this the experience of 
others ? Which are better for table as regards 
shape and size? The Leghorn cockerels with 
me appear larger birds, and they have the 
advantage for market of yellow legs. I shall be 
thankful for information.—B. 

Canaries moulting.— I would be glad if 
some one could give me an explanation of the 
following cases: I had a canary for several 
years, which died about six months ago. For 
about two years before its death it was con¬ 
tinually moulting; as soon a9 it had a new coat 
it began again to moult, and although in a fine, 
airy, clean kitchen, and against the window, the 
feathers appeared dirty directly. I thought it 
was just old age, but I have just got another 
young bird which has begun the same way—to 
moult again as soon as it had finished. What 
is the cause ?—H. W. 

Canary not singing. —If “A C. V'bird is suspended 
from the ceiling of a lofty room, it never will be healthy, 
because of the impurity of the atmosphere from heat and 
other causes. Take it down, and place it where it 
will get plenty of light, and a properly regulated atmo¬ 
sphere, and it will slog again. The food is all right.— 
W. Malbcrn. 


-If “ A. C." keeps the canary in a room where gas 

is burnt, that is the cause of its continually moulting and 
not singing. A friend of mine made the same complaint, 
and when the canary was kept in a warm greenhouse or 
room where there wa* no gas, it had a splendid plumage 
and began to sing. Do not feed with hemp, as it makes 
the bird too fat, and it is very heating.—E mmix. 

Larks—Will any reader kindly inform mo if it 
is of any use buying the«e birds after being caught wild 
with n view to keeping thorn in a cage to slug ? I notice 
they are advertised from 2*. Gd. per dozen. Can a good 
bird be got In this way ?—Lark. 


Vol. I. " Gardening " is out of print, and we are 
therefore unable to further supply either separate copies 
or bound volumes 

Digitized by VjO 


out of print, 
?ly either sec 

gTe 


BEES. 

Sugar-cake. — C. Savage. —Sugar-cake is 
made by boiling about 3 pounds of loaf sugar 
with about half a pint of water until it will set 
hard if a drop be suddenly cooled; it is then 
moulded into any desired form. In half an hour 
it is ready for use. It is usual to cover a dinner- 
plate with thin paper and to pour the boiling 
sugar into it, so that the cake may be laid on the 
tops of the pans with the paper upwards, which 
prevents the quilt adhering. If not inclined to 
make it, a substitute will be found in the ordinary 
sugar-candy of trade. Barley-sugar is not a 
suitable food, as acid is used in its manufacture, 
which would cause it to liquefy and run down 
between the combs.—S. S. G, Boxicorth. 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 


Curing bacon — Poor Cottager. — After 
twenty years’ experience in ham and bacon 
curing, I think I shall be able to give a little 
information on this subject. After the pig is 
cut up, get the best lump saltpetre and press it 
yourself, as the powdered saltpetre is not to be 
depended on, using about one pound. The 
thrawl being ready with a layer of clean salt, 
you then rab the sides, the rind side, well with 
saltpetre until it perspires, rubbing the hams 
longer, so that the saltpetre may reach the ^one. 
On this depends the success. This completed, lay 
the rind side downwards on the thrawl, then 
sprinkle the fleshy side with saltpetre, using 
more to the hams. Then cover it with a good 
layer of salt. Of course the other side of the pig 
is done the same, laying it on the side already 
done, rind side downwards, with another layer of 
salt upon it. Let these lie a fortnight, then change 
them, bringing the bottom to the top, and the top 
to the bottom, and leave them a week longer. 
Three weeks is quite long enough to lie in salt. 
At three weeks’ end rub the thickest of the wet 
salt off, then sprinkle it with a little clean salt, 
string it, and hang it up in a nice warm and 
dry room, when it will be ready to use in a 
fortnight. I can only say the reason “ Poor 
Cottager’s” hams went bad is, he did not rub 
them sufficiently with saltpetre, and left them 
too long in the wet salt. Curing bacon requires 
more practice than merely seeing it done by 
any other person. The above is my method of 
curing bacon and hams, and I cure 60 pigs or 
more in a season.—II. Broomfield. 

Nettle beer.—I should like to know the quantities 
for making the electuary mentioned by the correspon¬ 
dent in the recipe for making uettle beer in Gardenings, 
September 1.— F. H. W. 


Lily of the Valley. —This is all times so 
universally admired and sought after, that it 
cannot be had in bloom too soon or too long. 
Imported clumps are far better for decorative 
purposes than single imported crowns. They 
should be potted as soon as they arrive from the 
nursery in an admixture of loam, sand, and 
leaf-mould, and then they should be placed in a 
cold pit or frame for a couple of weeks and 
covered with leaf-soil, so as to exclude light and 
air. About the beginning of this month (ac¬ 
cording to the length of time they have been 
potted) introduce a few pots to the Mushroom 
house, or any dark, warm shed or cellar, and 
again oompletely cover the pots and crowns! 
with leaf-soil or coal ashes, and let them remain 
there until they have thrown up their flower- 
spikes, which they will do in about three weeks 
from the date of being put into the house. The 
plants should then be removed to a warm green¬ 
house, and be gradually inured to the light by 
placing an inverted flower-pot over them for a 
day or two, which will admit sufficient air and 
light to allow of the plants being then placed 
on a shelf near the glass until their flowers have 
fully expanded, when they can be transferred to 
the conservatory. Failing a Mushroom house or 
similar place, the pots can be plunged and 
covered over with a few inches of leaf-soil in a 
box, which may be placed anywhere in a tem¬ 
perature of from 55° to 60**. English-grown 
Lilies of the Valley can be potted up (the 
strongest crowns should be selected for the pur¬ 
pose) and treated, as just recorded, for supplying 
cut flowers. Lilies of the Valley treated as above 
advised will throw up a flower-spike from every 
crown of well-ripened clamps.—H. W. W. 


TO LOVERS OF THE NARCISSI.-Ctasi 

J- the lovely white Hoop Petticoat, each 64 ; intermedia/ 
2s. doz., teuuior, the silver Jonquil, 6d. each ; poetious oroa- 

fcus, Is. 6d. doz.; ^-*-- v ’ ** - 

albidus, < 

10G; inoo _ __ v%4 _ 

doz.; junctefolius, 2s. 64 doz. ; prat-cox, 2 b. doz.; and manj 
others ; one each of 12 varieties, including type® of each 
group, 2s. 64 All the above m stock and Bent free by first 
parcel port.— C. KILMI8TKR, Seedsman, North Street, 
Dnghton._ 

TO LOVERS OF THE LILIES.—Speciosum 

I rubrum. 6d. each; 8. album, la.; longiflorum, 44; Mar- 
tagon, Gd.; Szovitzianum, Is. 6d.; Buperbum, 9d. ; auratum, 
9d. : exoelaum, 94; tigrwum, splendens, and plenum, 94; 
chalcedonicum, is.; bulbiferum, Gd.; crooeum, 4d ; Haniri 
(true). Ib. 64; Batemanune, 2a.; Humboldti, 2s. 64 ; katm- 
Bohatkense, 9d.; Thunbergianum, 44; davuricum, candidum, 
and tigriuum, 2 b. 64 doz. ; one each of 12 varieties, includiog 
types of each group, 5e. All in stock now and sent free by 
fl rat pa rcel poet —C. KIL MISTER, North Street, Bright m, 

G EMS for lovers of the curious, beautiful, or 
rare ; all in Btock now. and sent by first parcel poet, free. 
Hardy Orchida—Bee, 44 each ; large white Heileborinc-, 6d,; 
Spider, 44; late Spider, 44 ; laxifiora, 64; Lady’s Blipp-.-r 
(Calceolus), 6d.j Tulipa Bylveatriu, rare British species, 
flowering roots, 2d.; Horned Tulip, 24 ; green-flowered Tulip, 
24 ; Tulips with variegated foliage, in mixture. Is. Gd per 
doz.; Crocus Imperati, la. doz. ; Hepatica. single white. >4 
each ; Iris Biisiaua, 6d : I. reticulata, winter blooming. Gd.; 
Anemone apennina, Is. 6d. doz.; A. nemorosa plena, 3d. 
each ; A. nemorosa cotrulea, 6d.; A. japonica rosea, 64 ; A, 
palmata. 4d.; A. eylvcstris, 3d.; A. ranuuculoide*, U. fid. 
doz.; Crimean and Imperati Snowdrop. 34 each; Sdlla 
bifolia, la. Gd. doz ; S. autumnalia, 2s.: 8. ciliaria, each 64 ; 
S. Corsica, each la. 6d.; Ixia viridiflora, lovely green flower*, 
1 b. 6d. doz : Cyclamen hedem-folium, hardy species. 64 each; 
Arum dmcunculum, 4d.; A. crimtum, hardy carnivorous 
plant, 6d.; Vallisneria, 3d each. Special oner to dear; 
Scilla sibirica, per 100, 5 a. 9d.; 60, 3s.; Gentiana acaulis, per 
100, 1 ?b, 6d. ; single scarlet Van Thol Tulips, per 100, 6a. 64 ; 
Paper-white Narciss, per 100, 9s Cd ; 50 5s. All in stock now, 
and Bent free by first parcel post.—C. KILMISTKR, North 
Street. Brighton. 

TIBON1A FLO RIBUND A.—Winter-flowering 
J— 1 shrub for greenhouse, tw > for Is , free ; white Margue¬ 
rites, four for Is., free-JAMES LOOME9, F.R H.8., The 
Nurseries, Whittlesey, near Peterborough. 

PRIMULAS.-—Large plants, excellent strain, 

L shaken out of 4-inch pots, 3a. 6d. dozen, packed in pot*, 
put on rail same price.—J. LOOMES, The Nurseries. 
Whittlesey, near Peterboroug h._ 

PELARGONIUMS, French, Regal, and Fancy. 
J- A few dozons of choice varieties left at 4s. 6d. & dozen. 
(See previous advertisements.)— J. LOOMES, F.R.H.8., The 
Nurseries, Whittlesey, near Peterborough._ 

OARNATIONS, from a superb collection, 3s. 6d. 
Vj per dozen, six for 2a.— J. LOOMES, The Nureerie*, 

Whittle sey, near Peterborough. _ 

IO STANDARD RUSES, large heads, 15s., 
-LxJ including finest sorts as Gloire de Dijon, Devouiemis 
Souvenir de la Malmaison, Duke of Edinburgh, Chethunt 
Hybrid, etc., on specially selected Briers grown on acoldsoi 
Package* gratis for cash with order. Plant at once.—J. H. 
LEY. Royal Nursery, Woodside Gre-n. B E._ . 


OHRUBS FOR WINDOW BOXES.-Twelve 

O choice Conifers and Evergreens of sorts for 5a. 7s. 64, 
and 9b., according to size and variety. Names on application. 

‘ “ * ., 15s. No charge for 

Nurseries. Matlock. 


Dwarf Roses, 7s. tier dozen * Standards, 15s. 
packing.—J. J. MARRIOTT. Highflel d Nu ra 


OYCLAMENS and HARDY CACTUS -Fine 

growing plants of the famous Ooveufe Garden varietia. 
Is. 64 per dozen; extra stTong, 2s and 2a. 64 per dozen. 
Brilliant Improved (new), crimson-scarlet, 3a. per dozen. Ibe 
rare and beautiful hardy Cactus, dowers golden-yellow, la 34 
each, two for ‘2s. ; all post free for cash.—J, OORNH1LL, 
By fleet. .Surrey______ 


100 


DUTCH FLOWER ROOTS tor as., free, 

— —. — viz.. Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, Anemones, Ac., 
all na me4—J. B Y LVK8TER. Idle. Bra df ord. _ 

ONLY Is. <xl., free. — Six each of Tulips, 
v Narcissus, Anemones, Crocus, Ranunculus, Aconites, 
andlxiaa.—J. SYLVESTER, Idle, Branford. 

A FRICAN TUBEROSES.—Beautiful scentel 

■Ljl flowers for ohoioe button-holes or bouquets, 3 for Is. 64 
5s. per doz., free —J. SYLVESTER, Idle, Bradford-__ 

EXHIBITION "HYACINTHS, 3 for la. 9M 

JLl for 3a., 12. 5a. 64: exhibition Tulips. 1b. 3d dozen. £*• 
100, all named, free.—J. 8YLVESTER, Id le, Br adf ord 

ANEMONE FULGENS, brillililt ecarletTX 
lx apennina, beautiful blue, Is. Gd. per dozen. free.-J 


SYLVESTER, Idle, Bradford. 

T ILY OF THE VALLEY. — Large 

-LI crowns, the largest and best grown, 25, 2a 
7s. 6d, free.-J. SYLVESTER Idlo. Bradford 


Berlin 


HHRISTMAS HUSKS with flow.r bads, 3for 
VJ Is. 6d., 5s. per dozen; Spines japonica. immense clamp. 

6s. per dozen ; Gladiolus The Bride, 6 for Is. 6d.; 12,2s. 6 
BrenohlayBenfti?, Is. 3d. dozen, 8a. 190; all free.—J. BYLVEB* 
TER, Idle, Bradford__ _ 

O NLY 2 1 . 6d., free.— Six named Hyacinths 

six named Tulips, and six Lily of the Valley.-J 
SYLVES TER. Idle. Bradford. __ 

T ILIUM HARRISI (the BermudaTSstcr 

U Lily), one of the most valuable introductions of 1st* 
years; a long trumpet-flowered white Lily, be»utifulljj■re- 
flexed—bearing frequently from six to ten, and has w* 11 
photographed with over thirty flowers on one spike; forces in 
pots with great facility, and so full of vitality that setew 
and continued growths spring from one bulb ; bulbs, 2s e*®* 

13s. per dozen. It is quite distinct from L. longifiom^ • 
delivered free — HOOPLli L CO.. C ovent Garden, botm* 
TTELIOTROPIUMS for wioter.-Thc Qaeea, 

-LL pearl white, exquisitely scented; strong plant*. 3 for 
Is. 24. free.—J. F PAGE, Florist High Street. Leyton.1^*9 
DELARGONLUMS, such Beauty of OxU-o, . 
X Diadem, Virglnuum, Miss Hoyle, 4o.. 3s. p*>r dozen: «°* . 
named, 2s per dozen; Rollisson's Telegraph Cacam-xw 
seeds, 20 Beeds, Is. —ANTHONY MILNE i, Kelviu G-nve c 
Nursery. Fagley, near Bradford. Yorkshi re. 1 &*>3 ^ 


1 O CHOICEST EXHIBITION ROSES, & 

1^1 and 10a. Gd., all finest sorts from a grand collection 
Price only for novelties, plauts being equally fin® and on own ^ 
roots. Plants second to none. Plant at once —J. H. Lhx 
IRoyal Nursery, Woodside Green, S.K 


f 




GARDENING ILLIJSTB ATED 


V’OL. V. 


DECEMBER 8, 1883. 


No. 248. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


NOTES ON THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
What should we do without the Chrysanthe¬ 
mum to brighten these short and darkening days 
of early winter i Very few indeed are the 
individuals who escape a touch of the Chrysan¬ 
themum craze which takes possession of us at 
this season. Town and country join hands and 
interests in honour of this flower of many varia¬ 
tions. The clerk in the railway ticket office 
may rejoice in the golden boss of his Jardin des 
Plantes, bat the guard of the incoming train can 
match it with his snow-white tassel of Elaine, 
given to him a hundred miles away down the 
line by a country friend. Chrysanthemum 
growers in the provinces enter the lists in friendly 
competition at town shows, great and small. 
Florists' windows are full of the loveliest button¬ 
holes and sprays—Chrysanthemums again—in 
white, and crimson, and gold, and bronze, over¬ 
shadowed with dainty fronds of Maidenhair. 
Flower girls sit at street corners with their 
baskets full of gay blossoms—once more Chry- 
smthemums—so bright and pure that the be¬ 
smirched and shivering vendor, drawing her 
thin shawl round her poorly-clad shoulders, 
is often only too sadly to be noticed by 
very force of contrast. Everywhere we see 
Chrysanthemums, we hear of Chrysanthemums, 
and so it comes to pass that we must, per¬ 
force, write of Chrysanthemums. It is strange, 
in the midst of all this progress, to take 
down an old book from the shelf in a quiet 
library, and to read, under date 1796: "We 
rejoice in the opportunity afforded us of pre¬ 
senting our readers with the coloured engraving 
of a plant recently introduced to this country, 
which, as an ornamental one, promises to become 
aa acquisition highly valuable.” A plate of C. 
inense (wrongly named C. indicum), of very 
noderate size, but of a pretty shade of maroon 
rcd, with silvery-grey undersides to its petals, 
accompanies the very interesting letterpress 
descriptive of the plant, which was destined 
tkereafter to take so prominent a place in 
British gardens. Early in November, 1795, this 
Chrysanthemum flowered in the nursery of Mr. 
ColriU, King’s Road, Chelsea, causing a much 
greater sensation in those earlier days of 
gardening than the introduction of a new plant 
produces now; and yet, I fear, it would have 
been excluded as worthless from the collection 
of grand incurved and recurved, tasselled, 
quilled, and Japanese wonders of floriculture 
which it was my good fortune to behold this day 
at the Temple Gardens. Chrysanthemums this 
year have had a good time. In pots and out of 
pots, against sunny south walls, and in cottage 
garden border, everywhere they have done well; 
acd [one of the most lovely posies ever beheld 
came to me last week from Munstead, where 
Sowers of all kinds bloom to perfection in the 
garden of one who loves them, bearing witness 
that the clusters of Chrysanthemums naturally 
grown, and neither disbudded nor trimmed, are 
amongst the most precious of nature's gifts. 
Assisted by man, it is true. But we Englishmay 
net greatly boast, because a hundred years ago, 
and more, we find records which mention the 
fact that the Chinese, by whom it is held in high 
esteem, pay great attention to its culture; they 
set it in pots and jars, and place it before the 
windows of their apartments, and that it is not 
lual for them, when they invite their friends 
n entertainment, to decorate their tables 
it. On those occasions, he that produces 
argest flower is considered as conferring the 
test honour on his guests ; and again, all 
s varieties growing in separate pots they 
s in certain quarters which they particularly 
to decorate, and the effect they produce is 
ly pleasing. In the cultivation of this plant 
spare no pains; the shorter it is and the 
t the flowers, the more it is esteemed, 
seems we are bnt treading iD the steps of 
heathen Chinee,” it may be of the mystical 
ucins himself, for ought we know to the 



5*7 this good example as much as we might, 
'£ setting them in pots and^eucs, and placing 


id jags, and placing 

Go gl 


them before the windows of our apartments 7 
I think not. I would have you notice the 
expression “ before the windows," for observe, it 
is not in the windows of their apartments. 

Our modem Chrysanthemums, at any rate, 
would be too tall for that, save and except the 
descendants of the little Chusan Daisy which 
we now call Pompones, after the guidance of 
our French neighbours. But how many are the 
positions coming under the head of window 
gardening of which we might make use for the 
cultivation of this valuable summer and autumn 
and winter-flowering plant ? To give an example: 
I know a London house where a large first-floor 
staircase window opens directly upon the flat 
roof of a room built out into the erewhile back 
garden or court. A grand place for a green¬ 
house one would suppose; but no. Neighbours, 
unaccommodating and unsympathetic, put a 
veto upon any erection infringing in the remotest 
degree upon rights of light and air. There is 
nothing, however, to prevent having alminiature 
garden on those flat leads, and a few pots of 
Chrysanthemums might well find an abiding 
place before that Btaircase window, where they 
might grow and be tended until the buds were 
nearly ready to open, and then might be removed 
within its shelter, where, interfering with none, 
the fair blossoms would woo the admiration of 
every passer-by going up or down the stairB. 
Many a flat housetop might and does afford 
scope for a considerable amount of gardening, 
and these are not only much more common now 
than heretofore, but will probably come more 
and more into public favour as time goes on. 
Many a wide area in a London sqnare, or bal¬ 
cony, or verandah on the sunny side of a street, 
would give sufficient standing room for the few 
plants which are all that a window gardener 
can hope to manage. And there are little paved 
courts in suburban districts, where dwell some 
of the hardest workers of the great city, and 
there are queer, unsuspected corners in the back 
streets of some of our comfortable, well-to-do 
country and cathedral towns where the cultnre 
of a few flowers soothes and brightens toiling 
lives, and where wonderful success attends upon 
such loving efforts. 

Whether carried on inside on the window-sill, 
outside in a window-box, or before the window 
within the narrow precincts of a garden court, 
all such efforts may be broadly reckoned under 
the head of window gardening, and to the 
notice of all window gardeners the Chrysanthe¬ 
mum should be especially commended. It is 
pre-eminently a town plant, from its smoke- 
defying nature and hardihood; and it needs 
just that amount of daily care and attention to 
trifling matters which fit it peculiarly well for 
forming an absorbing interest in the leisure 
hours of a busy life. Now, there is one phase of 
Chrysanthemum growing to which, at this time, 
I should like to draw attentioD, partly because 
it is contrary to general practice, and partly be¬ 
cause it is a method calculated to meet the wants 
of such small growers as have been already in¬ 
dicated, and in whose undertakings I feel a 
strong personal sympathy, viz.: the culture of 
old plants of Chrysanthemum from year to year, 
in order to obtain abundance rather than extra 
size of bloom. Such plants may be grown to so 
great a degree of perfection that one single 
specimen may be, as it were, a garden in 
itself; and most window gardeners know that it 
is more easy to manage and house one or two 
large pots than many small ones. 

A selection may be made from all classes of 
Chrysanthemums, both early and late flowering, 
bnt the former are perhaps even better adapted 
than the latter for this mode of cnltnre. 

In these summer-flowering Chrysanthemums 
we have comparatively a new break, which is 
attracting considerable attention at the present 
time, and will eventually lead, doubtless, to 
great results in the way of improvement. They 
are more dwarf in growth than the later kinds, 
and the flowers, though small, are produced in 
such quantity, that lack of size is more than 
atoned for by numbers. Their time of blooming 
from July throughout the autumn saves them 
from all risk of being cut off by frost, and the 
perfect ease with which they may be cultivated 

e 


render them pecnliarlydesirable for persons wi-n 
limited time and space. Half-a-dozen pots of 
different varieties of these Chrysanthemums 
would suffice to make a charming little garden 
gay through all the autumn months; and if we 
add to (or divide) the number by growing a few 
of the late flowering kinds, we may, without diffi¬ 
culty, prolong their season well into the winter. 
Summer Chrysanthemums have been grown for 
some years past in the open border with great 
success, but they are equally well adapted for 
those who have no border, and are consequently 
obliged to be contented with pots. To begin at 
the beginning of their cultivation, for we cannot 
start with old plants, cuttings may be put in at 
any time now, and for a month to come—as soon, 
in fact, as cuttings can be obtained; or this may 
be deferred until March. On the whole, autumn 
struck cuttings are the best; but one great ad¬ 
vantage of these useful plants is the rapidity 
with which they come into flower from the 
cutting stage. Good shoots should be obtained 
from the crown, not from the stems, and will 
strike readily within the shelter of a window. 
To make sore, it is a good plan to insert three 
of each variety round the edge of a 3| inch pot, 
in very sandy soil, and they will be likely to 
root more quickly and freely if a common 
tumbler be placed [over them until the cuttings 
have callosed and the fibres begin to form, as 
the condensed moisture within the glass prevents 
flagging, and under ordinarily good care all three 
will probably strike. An important matter in 
selecting cuttings is to make sure of getting the 
best varieties, rightly named. There is nothing 
more provoking than to grow a Chrysanthemum 
with infinite pains for many weeks, and to find, 
after all, that the trouble has been expended on 
a worthless sort. This has happened more than 
once in my own experience, and the warning is 
not needless. 

An excellent article appeared in Gaedkking 
on October 20 (No. 241), on the subject of 
these early-flowering Chrysanthemums, and Mr. 
Piercy’s information as to the best varieties in 
present cnltivation, and their comparative merits, 
is exhaustive. Of these, Nanum, La petite Marie, 
and Scour Melanie, are good white sorts, blooming 
in the order given. Illustration and its varieties 
are blush or pale pink in colour, and are free- 
flowering, sturdy plants. Madame Pecaul is a 
fine deep rose, and Precocity, Frfidriric Mar- 
ronet, and Canrobert represent different shades 
of orange and yellow. From these a good selec¬ 
tion may be made, as they are all robust and of 
excellent habit. Rooted cuttings may be stopped 
once, while still in their striking pots, by having 
their tops pinched out. This will cause them to 
break lower down, and induce bushy growth. A 
fortnight after the stopping, they may be trans¬ 
ferred to the pots in which they are intended 
to bloom. An 8-inch, or at most a 10-inch pot, 
will be quite large enough, as over-potting is a 
mistake. It is well, perhaps, to remind inex¬ 
perienced gardeners that the two operations of 
pinching or cutting in and repotting should 
□ever be done at the same time, as it draws too 
largely on the resources of any plant to be 
stimulated into action at once in root and branch. 
As soon as the plants are established in their 
blooming pots, which will be in about a week 
after repotting, they should be placed ont of 
doors in as good a position as can be afforded to 
them with regard to sun and air. 

There are one or two broad principles in 
Chrysanthemum cultnre which should here be 
set down in order. 1. They are strong feeders, 
and must have strong soil to grow in. The com¬ 
post in which they are potted should be a sonnd, 
hearty loam, to which may be added, with ad¬ 
vantage, one part of dry soot thoroughly mixed 
with it, and just enough of coarse sand or grit 
to prevent the soil from clogging in any degree. 
Manure is best given later in liquid form—soot 
water and even soapsuds being good stimulants. 
In towns, Standen's manure will be found a 
valuable assistant, or a very small portion of 
guano added to the water. 2. Chrysanthe¬ 
mums mast never be allowed to suffer from want 
of water. This is a point of the utmost im¬ 
portance, and forms the chief part of that daily 
attention which it is ao pleasant for the plan 





452 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED [Dec. 8, im . 


lover to give. The following hints may be of 
service: As soon as the plants are in their 
blooming pots, the rootB will begin to ran into 
the new Boil. Very soon they will reach the sides 
of the pots, round which they will curl, pressing 
close up to the earthenware. It is needful to 
the sturdy health of the plants that they Bhould 
be grown as much as possible out-of-doors, in 
an aspect where they may get full benefit 
from sunshine and air. But in hot, dry sum¬ 
mer days, the heat of the sun, concentrated 
on the surface of the pots, will make them so 
hot that the tender roots lining their sides must 
of necessity be scorched and dried up. This is 
fatal, and must at all cost be avoided. As a 
rule, Chrysanthemums grown in pots are 
plunged, but under the circumstances of town 
gardening this would generally be impracticable, 
and the best substitute is to sink each pot in 
another, large enough to contain, besides the 
plant itself, a lining of sand or cocoa fibre be¬ 
tween the two pots. These will prevent exces¬ 
sive evaporation, and save labour in watering. 
Drainage having been carefully attended to In 
the first instance, a thorough good watering once 
a day would probably suffice. Liquid manure 
in any form should always be given after the 
plants have had a previous watering with clear 
water an hour or two before, as the roots are 
then better able to assimilate the extra nourish¬ 
ment. This may be given every other day with 
advantage after the buds begin to form. Fre¬ 
quent syringings with rain or clear soot water 
are at all times a great help, and keep the plant s 
free from blight and dust. It will be under¬ 
stood that though Chrysanthemums must never 
be allowed to sutler from drought, it is equally 
important that they should not be over-deluged 
with water. Plants from cuttings may be 
stopped once or even twice after they are in 
their blooming pots, and then they should be 
allowed to grow away. Disbudding of early 
Chrysanthemums is unnecessary, and in the 
case of the larger kinds should be done 
sparingly and with judgment, the object being 
to obtain good sized bushes full of flower, and 
not large individual blooms. Both kinds in 
every other respect should receive the same 
treatment. The summer bloomers will flower 
standing out of doors, if so desired, where they 
grow; the later kinds, however, will require the 
shelter of a light passage or hall, or, better still, 
a bay window, where they can bring their 
flowers to perfection. After blooming, the 
plants should be cut down and placed under 
shelter, out of reach of frost. Any back window 
will answer for this purpose, and in time of 
severe frost a cone of brown paper twisted up 
and placed over each pot will be ample protec¬ 
tion. In mild seasons Buch a plant will throw 
up many shoots from the roots, and these may 
be stopped by pinching ont their points, to 
keep back growth and make them busby. March 
is a good month to turn them out, when they 
should be at once repotted into their blooming 
pots, after which they will need no more 
stopping, but if the shoots are too numerous 
they should be removed altogether to prevent 
overcrowding. Then should follow the same 
’ treatment with regard to care in watering, 
feeding, and placing the plants in a good aspect 
to well ripen the wood, as before. No pains 
should be spared to grow them into specimens, 
and two or three such plants, capable of bearing 
some 160 flowers, would afford ample scope for 
the energies of many a window gardener. 

A very short but carefully chosen list of some 
of the best of the several types of late-flower¬ 
ing varieties is appended 

Incurved andrkcurved. — White. —Princess 
of Teck, Empress of India, White Eve, and Mrs. 
G. Bundle. Golden yellow. —Jardin des Plantes, 
Barbara, Mrs. Dixon, Golden Queen of England. 
Bliuh. —Hero of Stoke Newington, Queen of 
England, Blonde Beauty. Pale yellow. —George 
Glenny. Lilac and pink. —Lady Hardinge, 
Lady Slade, Lady Talfourd. Dark crimton and 
reef.—Julie Lagravere, Nil Desperandum, Prince 
Alfred. Bronze. —Beethoven, Antonelli, Progne. 

Japanese.— White. —Elaine, and Fair Maid 
of Guernsey. Mauve. —James Salter. Lemon 
yellow —Peter the Great. Bronze.— Cry Kang, 
The Cossack, Red Dragon. 

Anemone flowered. —W7ufe.—Fleur de 
Marie, Madame Montels, Jean Hachette. Golden 
orange. —Gluck, Mr. Astie. Lilac. —Marie Stuart. 
Bote— Dick^Tvpin. , K. L. D. 

Digitized by C, i OOQIC 


THE SPANISH BROOM. 

(SPABTIUM JUNCEUM.) 

To the Order Leguminoso; belong nearly the 
whole of our yellow-flowering trees and shrubs, 
this Broom being no exception to the rule. It 
produces large, deep yellow coloured flowers 
during summer, and in that stage ranks amongst 
the most showy of the class to which it belongs. 
Being pretty well known, it requires no elaborate 
description ; suffice it to say that it forms a 
graceful bush some 6 feet, 10 feet, or 12 feet 
high, somewhat erect in habit, and with nearly 


either of them. This Broom is a good illustra¬ 
tion of the fact that the best plants are not 
always to be found amongst novelties, and Hibis¬ 
cus syriacus or Althaea frutex, as it is sometime! 
called, is another. This last was introduced 
about the same time as the Broom, and as an 
autumn flowering shrub it, or rather the many 
varieties of it, are unequalled by any recent 
discoveries ; indeed, late in autumn these Hibis- 
cuses are almost the only shrubs one finds in full 
bloom. _ Alpha. 

NOTES ON THE IVY. 



Spray of Spanish Broom (Spartium junceum). 

leafless brandies of a deep green colour; there¬ 
fore the absence of foliage is not so much 
noticed. This Broom is seen to the best advan¬ 
tage when associated with other shrubs in Buch 
a way that their uppermost shoots rise above 
those of the Broom, and thereby form as it were 
a Betting for the wealth of golden blossoms 
which it produces. When standing singly it 
always requires support, otherwise comparatively 
large branches will often break off, even with 
very little wind, thereby disfiguring the plant. 
A point in its favour is the fact that it succeeds 
perfectly on gravelly or sandy soils. It is a 
native of Spain and Portugal, and is said to 
have been introduced into England more than 
three centuries ago. It is easily propagated by 
means of seeds, which, although they do not 
ripen in some parts of England, are readily 
obtainable, and if sown out of doors germinate 
freely. According to Loudon there are two 
varieties, the sweet-scented (odoratissimum) and 
the double-flowered, but I have not yet seen 


AT this season of the year when deciduous 
shrubs and trees have lost their leaves, the dif¬ 
ferent varieties of Ivy look more brilliant than 
ever. Their rich green matured foliage become! 
even greener than in summer, and it is during 
the latter part of October and the greater fart 
of the following month, if the weather be at all 
mild, that their globular trusses of flowers are 
unfolded. To the Ivy belongs in an eminent 
degree properties possessed by comparatively 
few families of plants, one of which is its 
power of being able to cling for support to 
whatever objects come within its reach, be they 
ruins, rocks, wood, or living trees; and if such 
are absent, it will content itself with densely 
covering the surface of the soil. The poet has 
truly said of it that it will “ climb the loftiest 
height, or deck the lowliest grave." It will also 
even lay aside its clinging habit and assume an 
arboreal or tree-like form of growth. This it 
never fails to do as soon as it has overgrown the 
objects to which it cluDg; and it is when it has 
fairly assumed this form that it flowers and 
fruits most abundantly. Immense globular 
bushes of Ivy, studded with innumerable trusses 
of glossy black berries, may sometimes be seen 
surmounting comparatively slender column; at 
altitudes of from 80 feet to 100 feet; there ii 
also a yellow-berried variety, and both this and 
the black-fruited kind are found to be exceed¬ 
ingly useful for decorative purposes, more par¬ 
ticularly at Christmastide, when they harmonise 
well with the Holly and the Mistletoe. It l* 
also found that when cuttings are taken from 
those parts of the plants which have assumed 
the tree or bush-like form, they continue to re¬ 
tain that shape, and thus make useful plant; for 
pot culture, or for other decorative purpose;. - 
they can be grown in the form of standard;, 
pyramids, or as dwarf bushes. Most of the 
varieties of the Ivy are also suitable for the pur¬ 
poses of forming margins to flower beds of con¬ 
siderable dimensions, and as edgings to cosdi 
roads, drives, Ac. 

The common Ivy (Hedera Helix), a native 
of Britain, is found to be exceedingly useful fa 
the purpose of covering the soil under orna¬ 
mental trees in pleasure grounds or elsewhere, 
as this plant will grow and thrive where Ores 
cannot be made to live, and a Cedar or other 
ornamental tree rising from the centre of a 
circle of dark green Ivy has a fine appearance 
and this may, if desired, be enhancer by sur¬ 
rounding the circle of dark green with a margin 
of some of the silver variegated varieties now to 
be had. For festooning ruins or concealins 
unsightly objects of any kind it is, no doubt 
advisable to allow this plant to grow free and 
unconstrained; but where it is desired to coyer 
the walla of a mansion or other building with 
green foliage (and portions of the wail; 
of some of the finest mansions in the country 
are thus clothed with the happiest effect), it 
should be kept close to the wall. For this p®‘ 
pose there is possibly no better variety than the 
Hedera canariensis, or what is called Irish 1'7. 
a native of the Canaries, distinct front the 
British species, Hedera Helix, and its yellow- 
berried variety, H. H. chrysocarpa, but equally 
hardy, and of more rapid growth. These will 
grow to any desired height, and will submit to 
any amount of catting in. There are also various 
other species and varieties of rapid growth 
suitable for this purpose, such as H. algerienas, 
H. caenwoodiane, H. cordata, H. demata, kc , 
together with new variegated varieties of some, 
of the above of very great beauty: bnt, unfor-, 
tunately, some of them are deficient in clinging 
power, and when growing freely are apt to rever 
to the original green colour. This, however, i, 
said not to be the case with a new and remark 
ably beautiful variety, which has been came 
H. hybemica marginata. 

Soil.—A lthough Ivies are by no means pat 
ticular as to soil, yet in order to induoe them i 


URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 










n«c. 8, 1883.] GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


453 


gro* away freely it is desirable that this should 
be of fair quality; and as soon as the plants have 
fairly covered the walls which they are intended 
to clothe, or even before this has been quite 
accomplished, they should be annually cur, or 
rather clipped in, as closely as possible; and the 
best or proper time for performing this neces¬ 
sary operation is daring the month of April, or 
when all danger from injury by severe frost may 
be supposed to have passed, for although all the 
varieties of Ivy may be said to be quite hardy, 
still severe frost will inflict serious injury upon 
the most hardy of plants when in a mutilated 
condition. It will be found that the plants will, 
in s very short time after being clipped, put 
forth abundance of fresh green leaves, all of 
which they will retain throughout the season, 
and thus the litter from the gradual shedding 
of leaves during the summer will be avoided, 
which would not be the case if the old leaves 
were allowed to remain upon the plants. By 
following this plan the foliage is annually re¬ 
newed, and the practice has long been proved to 
have no injurious effect upon the health of the 
plants. This annual clipping is absolutely 
necessary where strong growing sorts are used, 
otherwise their increasing weight acted upon 
bv strong winds would be sure to cause them 
to separate from the comparatively smooth 
surface of a brick or stone wall. In cases, how¬ 
ever, where some of the more delicate variegated 
kinds are used which are of slower growth, and 
which adhere very closely to old ruins, walls, or 
other objects, less clipping will be necessary. It 
has already been said that some of the more re¬ 
cently introduced variegated kinds, although ex¬ 
ceedingly ornamental, do not possess in a great 
degree the power of adhering to walls or other 
objects, bat this objection does not apply to 
such kinds as H. elegantissima, a pretty silver 
variegated variety of British Ivy, and one which 
clings closely to whatever it comes in contact 
with. The foliage of this plant is beautifully 
marked, and it is admirably suited for clothing 
comparatively low walls, and it is not at all in¬ 
clined to revert to the normal green colour. 

A.v Ivy winter garden.— In addition to the 
various decorative purposes for which the numer¬ 
ous species and varieties of Ivy may be used, a 
collection of the same, or a winter garden of 
Ivies, may be made to form an appreciable and 
by no means an uninteresting adjunct to a gar¬ 
den. To accomplish this a suitable site should 
be selected, and the soil, if not moderately rich, 
should be improved by having additional mate¬ 
rial added to it; and the plants may be arranged 
according to any desired plan or design. Strong 
stakes, or portions of the stems of trees, should 
be fixed firmly in the soil, some of which may 
be allowed to take the form of irregular arches, 
Ac, while rough pyramids may be formed of the 
roots of trees or other materials, and on these 
the plants should be allowed to grow, arranging 
them in accordance with their known power of 
development—that is, planting the stronger 
growing sorts upon the larger supports, and the 
more delicate kinds in suitable situations, and 
on such supports as they will be likely to 
speedily cover. Such a garden or arrangement 
would be very little trouble to keep in order, 
and would be interesting at all seasons of the 
year, bnt more particularly so during the 
autumnal months and throughout such mild, 
open winters as we now not unfrequently ex¬ 
perience. P. G. 

Propagating Hollies. — Hollies may be 
propagated by means of cuttings, bnt the pro¬ 
cess is so slow, and the risk of failure so great, 
that such a method is of little or no practical 
value, and is therefore seldom followed. The 
common Holly is readily increased by means of 
seed, which may be sown in the open ground; 

I when the young plants are large enough 
they are often employed as stocks 
on which to graft or bnd the different varieties. 
The seeds will not come up the following spring 
after sowing; therefore they should be kept in 
a heap mixed with soil for the first season, as 
treated in that wa v they are not so liable to get 
iry as in a seed bed; besides, trouble of keep¬ 
ing the bed clear of weeds is thus avoided. If so 
heated, sow them the next season, that is to say, 
I year after being gathered.when they will come 
ip the following spring. Budding is performed 
ibout the same time as with Roses, viz, in July 
*<l August, and the mechanioaj portion of jthe 


be done at almost any season if the stocks are in 
pots and can be kept close, but when out of doors 
spring is the best time. The Holly succeeds much 
better when grafted by some of the various 
modes of side grafting that when the stock iB 
cleft for that purpose. Id speakiDg of the want 
of success in raising Hollies from cuttiDgs, ex¬ 
ception must be made in the case of the minia¬ 
ture Hex crenata and its varieties, Fortunei and 
variegata, all of which strike readily from cut¬ 
tings pat in pots of sandy soil and kept in a 
close frame. 

Araucaria lmbrlcata.— The decay of 
the lower branches of this tree is generally 
caused by an unhealthy state of the roots, which 
have probably found their way into the cold, 
damp subsoil. This conifer likes good drainage, 
and if there is any danger of stagnant moisture 
lying about the roots in winter, a drain should 
be laid in its immediate vicinity. This alone 
suffices sometimes to bring the tree again into a 
state of health, as by carrying off superfluous 
moisture the soil again comes into a fit condi¬ 
tion for the roots to work in. At the same time 
nothing does so much good as top-dressing with 
good soil, which enriches whilst attracting the 
roots towards the surface. The best way is to 
take off about 6 inches of the top mould, re¬ 
placing with loam or good soil of some kind, 
mixing with it some well-decayed duDg. This 
may be done any time during the winter, and 
in the course of a season or two there will be a 
marked improvement in the appearance of the 
tree. Be sure to bury no portion of the stem 
with the new soil.—J. C. B. 


^ration is also much the ^me. CjrH' 


in of .tl 


THE OOMINGI WEEKS WORK. 

Extracts f rom a Garden Diary—December 10 
to December 15. 

Putting Cypripedium spectabile in a large pan in 
Sphagnum, peat, and sand, and placing it in a cold 
house, keeping it wet. Planting Souvenir de la Mai- 
maison Roses in front of houses for autumn flowers, also 
Box hedge for shelter. Putting in more forcing materials, 
including plants for cut flowers, ami Sweet briers and 
Rose* for stands. Beginning to place show Pelargoniums 
in their flowering pots, using a compost consisting of 
loam, manure, an i sand, and stopping them. Putting a 
few Fuchsias into heat lor cuttings. Mulching all young 
fruit trees with manure. Looknur over Pelargoniums, 
and picking off damaged foliage. Beginning to clear up 
Mint, Horseradish, and other beds. Putting in Deutzlk 
gracilis, Anne Boieyn Pinks, and fancy Pelargoniums to 
force. Putting Endive under cover, and ashes over Peas 
to protect them from birds. 

Forking over in a shallow manner Raspberry ground. 
Putting Lilium auratum into peat and sand. Planting 
Stephanotis in loam and peat. Putting in more Mint 
and Balm to force. Putting into heat Roses, Pinks, 
Cyclamens, and Heliotropes. Inserting Fuchsia cuttings. 
Putting in Dielytra to force, and a batch of Asparagus. 
Tying up Yew trees. Cedars, <fcc , in order that snow shall 
not break them down. Finishing, painting, and tying 
orchard house trees. Potting off late sown Calceolarias, 
also Canterbury Bell and Cucumber plants. Shifting 
herbaceous Calceolarias. Putting litter over Parsnips, 
Seakale, Artichokes, Celery, Carrots, Ac., in order to be 
able to get them up during frost. Sponging Palms, and 
Orange trees. Emptying a pit and refilling it for Potatoes. 
Putting manure on Asparagus beds. Potting Isolepis 
gracilis for drawing-room decoration, also Vallotas in 
peat and loam. 

Glasshouses. 

Forced flowers. —Where a house or pit 
exclusively devoted to the forcing of flowers for 
winter exists sufficiently roomy to keep pace 
with the demand, it is one of the most useful 
structures which a garden can possess, and in 
large gardens it should be divided, to permit 
of different temperatures being kept up, so as 
best to answer the degrees of heat which the 
various plants to be forced will bear; for 
amongst the hardy kinds of plants generally 
used for winter forcing there are many, as, for 
instance, Dielytras, Spirieas, and some shrubs, 
that if subjected to a temperature such as 
required to bring other things on at a reasonable 
rate, become so much drawn, and their flowers 
so soft, that they have a poor, weedy appearance, 
and flag immediately they are cut. Those who 
have not had much experience in flower forcing 
cannot be toooften urged to place all such plants 
as well up close to the glass as they can possibly 
be got; when so placed, they will bear much 
more heat without the flowers opening soft and 
of little use than if the same temperature was 
applied to them when at a considerable distance 
from the light. Where structures such as here 
indicated are not available, all sorts of shifts 
have to be made by putting the plants in early 
vineries and general plant houses, where there 
is usually too much heat or moisture, or both, to 


ijy force most plants of a hardy nature in a way 


that makes their condition when in bloom satis¬ 
factory. But where by necessity the work has 
to be done in a temperature that is too high, the 
best way of meeting the difficulty is to stand the 
plants at the coolest end of the house, and to 
use temporary means to get them as near the 
roof as possible. As a white flower, S pirasa 
(Hoteia) japonica is one of the most useful; 
immense quantities are now brought from abroad 
in the same way as Lily of the Valley ; they are 
to be bought cheap, and the advantage in their 
case over that of home-grown stock is that they 
usually come in quicker with less forcing, no 
doubt consequent on the more sunny climate 
they have been grown in and their earlier 
maturity. Where this Spiraa is wanted in as 
soon as it can be got, the plants should be put 
in heat early, as there is no certainty of their 
uniformly coming into flower within the same 
time under similar conditions of heat. Dielytras 
must not be kept too warm, especially at this 
early season, or the stems become drawn, and 
the flowers are meagre and washed-ont in colour. 
Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, Scilla eibirica, and 
Crocuses should now gradually be put in warmt h 
to succeed the Roman Hyacinths and the earliest 
larger kinds. Hyacinths in glasses for rooms, 
when the Moss or water used has got fairly 
occupied by roots, should be put in a little 
warmth. Lily of the Valley, sufficient in pro¬ 
portion to the demand, should be started once a 
fortnight; this plant, if the crowns or clumps 
have been well prepared, will stand as much 
heat as almost anything in cultivation. 

Hardy biirubs for forcing.— Amongst 
hardy shrubs there are few that are more beauti¬ 
ful, or that can be brought into flower with so 
little forcing as the Laurustinus, its natural 
season of blooming favouring early development. 
The best practice with this plant is to grow a 
sufficient number permanently in pots; standards, 
dwarf or tall, such as are in favour on the Conti¬ 
nent, are both pretty and useful, admitting as they 
do of being arranged in greenhouses and conserva¬ 
tories so as to stand up above other plants, thus 
relieving the otherwise formality. Where plants 
are not kept permanently for the purpose, small 
bushy examples from the shrubbery or reserve 
ground may be used. In all cases where hardy 
shrubs have to be transferred from tho open 
ground to pots, care should be taken to subject 
the roots to as little interference as possible, 
otherwise it is liable to affect the bloom. Where 
its colour is not objectionable, Azalea amcena 
should hold a prominent, position in hardy forced 
shrubs; for freedom of flowering it has few 
equals. Amongst hardy Azaleas, the mollis 
varieties, being early bloomers, are the best 
suited for forcing, but they must not be sub¬ 
jected to too much heat, as if much hurried, the 
naturally short duration of the flowers causes 
them to fall in a few days after they open, espe¬ 
cially if the plants are put in warmth early. Of 
sweet-scented flowers that will last well when 
cut, there is nothing better than Lilac. If wanted 
in a white or blanched condition, similar to the 
French productions of this plant, the forcing 
must be carried out in a darkened place, but 
where the pure white colour is not an object, 
there is no necessity to resort to this. The 
natural substance of the flowers of Lilac, even 
when produced in strong heat, is a contradiction 
to that of most other things, as it is such as to 
prevent their droopiDg when cut; consequently, 
like Lily of the Valley, they will bear almost 
any amount of heat. In selecting Rhododendrons 
for early forcing, it is necessary to be carful that 
the sorts are such as bloom naturally early ; any 
kinds, light or dark, that have a disposition to 
open their flowers in the open air before the 
return of warm weather is such as to admit in 
ordinary seasons of their escaping frost, are the 
sorts best adapted for the earliest forcing. In 
the introduction to heat of all such stock as the 
above, judgment should he exercised, so as to 
regulate the supply in accordance with the de¬ 
mand. Where flowers in the quantities now all 
bnt generally required are wanted, the means at 
command in the shape of room for forcing 
through the winter months are usually taxed to 
the utmost, and unless care is taken not to have 
more iu bloom than wanted at any particular 
time, there is likely to be a comparative scarcity 
afterwards. 

Stove winter-blooming plants — Such 

portions of the stock of Poinsettiae, Euphorbias, 
Begonias, Eranthemums, &:c, as are intended 
to bloom latest through the winter will new 



454 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


IDec. 8, 1883. 


require careful management ao as to draw the 
line in the matter of warmth between bringing 
them on to bloom earlier than they are wanted 
and keeping them too cool, for if the latter hap¬ 
pens they will be of little use. A drier condi¬ 
tion of the atmosphere, with only sufficient 
moisture in the soil to keep the leaves from 
flagging, will be found a suitable medium to 
subject them to. In the case of the earliest 
brought on lot of all plants that will produce a 
second head of flower, such as Euphorbia jac- 
quiniseflora, Plumbago rosea, &c., I have found 
it advisable to supply them regularly with 
manure water during the time the first bloom is 
being brought on; not only does this benefit the 
first flowers, but it strengthens and stimulates 
the plants for the second effort, which must 
necessarily be in proportion with the strength 
the plants have left in them. 

KOSE8.—The supply of flowers for the first 
two months in the year will so far depend upon 
the condition the plants are now in, that unless 
they have been kept warm enough to have made 
shoot-growth and set, or be about setting, their 
buds, no present treatment can remedy the de¬ 
fect; but to ensure flowers even later on the heat 
must be so regulated as to keep up free growth 
without over-excitement. In light houses, espe¬ 
cially if they are of considerable size, with the 
plants well up to the glass, the night temperature 
should be from 55° to 60°. With pot Hoses for 
winter forcing, again, successional bloom is of 
the first importance, for, as a matter of course, 
after the first head of flower is produced, unless 
the plants have enough strength in them to push 
strong growth, the later bloom will be wanting 
unless where additional plants are brought on to 
Bucceed the first, a course that requires both more 
means and material. To keep up the necessary 
vigour the plants must be regularly fed all 
through the time they are bringing to maturity 
their first crop of flowers, so that as these are 
gathered they may at once push more growth. 
Clay's manure is the material that most of the 
great growers for market use for Boses ; it is 
applied to the plants regularly every few weeks, 
and they will bear it in greater quantities than 
those who have not tried it would suppose; yet 
it is well not to give too much at a time, as 
where the plants are overdone it sometimes 
causes the leaves to fall. Continue syringing 
regularly to keep down red spider. Admit little 
or no external air; if this latter advice is scru¬ 
pulously followed, there will not be much to fear 
from mildew. 

Flower Qarden. 

Boses and spring flowers.—I f mulching 
of these has not yet been done, it should be 
forthwith. Though mulching of Roses is not 
an imperative necessity, as they winter safely 
without it nineteen winters out of twenty, yet 
there can be no doubt of its beneficial effects in 
ensuring robust growth, and for that reason 
alone it should be done. For the tender Tea 
and Noisette sections, any kind of a mulching 
is of the utmost value ; good farmyard manure, 
smoothed down with a spade, and over this a 
couple of inches of Cocoa fibre refuse, is the 
perfection of mulching. By way of protection 
to spring flowers, a thin covering of fibre is 
desirable, and also for plants in the reserve 
garden that are intended to make good losses in 
the spring garden, or to plant out as summer 
bedders; such a surface covering, applied to 
summer bedding plants that are planted out in 
cold pits will save an immensity of labour in 
the way of mat protection, for, as a rule, if the 
frost does not get hold of the roots, the tops of 
Violas and Pansies, and even Calceolarias, will 
stand many degrees of frost. Australian 
Dracieoas, Phormiums, and any plants of similar 
nature, as regards liability to injury from 
severe frost, are readily protected by a covering 
of fibre, leaf-soil, or cinder ashes applied to the 
base of the plants, and it may almost be desirable 
to mat up the tops of some of the finer plants, 
but this kind of protection should be given in 
such a manner that they can be quickly undone 
when there is a probability of mild weather 
setting in. 

Bedding plants. —Old plants of Pelargo¬ 
niums that were lifted from the beds will now 
have started into good growth, and should have 
all decayed portions of stems cut off and bad 
leaves removed, and if afforded plenty of light 
of 60°, they will 
ring propagation. 


As to root moisture, till the turn of the year, 
this should be rather sparingly applied, more 
particularly in regard to the tricolor section, 
which are somewhat impatient of too much 
water at the root at this dull season of the year. 
Autumn-struck plants will need little or no 
watering for the next month or so, and to pre¬ 
vent mildew, frequently go over them to remove 
all decaying leaves; give air freely when the 
weather is favourable, and if it can be accom¬ 
panied by a little fire heat, damp will be the 
more effectually expelled. The tender kinds, 
such as Altemantherasand Coleus, are no trouble 
to winter where firing is plentiful, but other¬ 
wise it is risky work, and those who cannot 
command a temperature of G5° to 70°, had best 
exclude them altogether. Keep them well up 
to light, and fumigate the moment there is the 
slightest trace of fly and thrips. Alternantheras 
and Iresines are very liable to attacks of these 
insects, and if the plants are any ways weakly, 
the more quickly do these pests increase. 
Finally, let all the kinds of plants be 
arranged as neatly as if they were intended 
for conservatory decoration, and this apparently 
small matter will not only be productive of 
pleasure, but serve to the better wintering of 
them, as they are sure to get more attention 
than they would if stood aboutanywhere and any¬ 
how. Have plenty of extra covering at hand, in 
readiness forverysevere weather, suchasbracken 
straw, or litter, to cover up cold frames that con¬ 
tain Calceolarias, Echeverias, and the like, such 
covering to be left on continuously so long as 
the frosts last, and not to be removed for at least 
a couple of days after a thaw has taken place. 

General work. —Finish up leaf raking and 
stacking, sweep and roll walks, and where Moss- 
grown sorape it off, or else prick up the gravel 
with a fork, sprinkle over a little fresh gravel, 
and roll down hard, level turf, and fresh turf 
bare spots under trees, also dig out old tree 
stumps, and trench up ground for new trees that 
are to be planted ; choice shrubs and trees should 
be top dressed as frequently as circumstances 
admit of. Young conifers—allsorts— and Hollies 
are much benefited by surface dressings of suit¬ 
able material; for the latter, we use old Vine 
border soil, and for conifers well decayed manure 
and light, sandy loam. For the most part, the 
trees that we have to top-dress are on turf; 
this, therefore, has to be rolled back, the sur¬ 
face soil lightly loosened with a fork, and the 
dressing is then applied. The turf is then rolled 
back at once, but not beaten down, only 
levelled, and thus the trees get the full benefit 
of all the rain that falls. The clipping of 
hedges, and trimming into form evergreen 
shrubs, clearing out of drains and haw-haws, 
as also the wheeling of soil and manure, are all 
of them suitable operations for frosty weather 
when little else can be done out of doors. 

Fruit. 

Vines. —Examine inside borders in the early 
house as soon as the buds are fairly on the 
move, and, if necessary, give old Vines, which 
cannot be over-stimulated, a good soaking with 
warm diluted liquid manure, also mulch the 
roots with rotten manure; renovate the fer¬ 
menting material, and let the temperature range 
from 50° to 56° at night, and 65° to 70° by day. 
As old Vines generally break well, direct 
syringing may be moderated on dull days, but 
young ones which have not been forced early 
will require more careful management, as it not 
unfrequently happens that the most prominent 
buds take the lead, and unless timely attention 
is devoted to bending down and sometimes 
rubbing out the terminal buds, unsightly blanks 
will be sure to mar the appearance of the 
house. When this stage of growth has been 
reached, cover the outside borders to the depth 
of 18 inches with fermenting Oak leaves; make 
them very firm to keep in the heat; place 
shutters or boards over, but quite clear of the 
leaves. 

Late houses. —Look over hanging Grapes 
two or three time a week, as this intensely 
damp weather is very bad for Alicantes, Gros 
Colmar, and Muscats, and one neglected berry 
soon mars the beauty of a bunch. Get rid of 
the foliage little by little, as it parts freely 
from the Vine, but do not take off any more 
laterals, at least where the Grapes are to be 
bottled, otherwise the wounds will give off 
moisture and colour when the bunches are taken 
to the dry atmosphere of the Grape room. 


Ventilate freely with gentlewarmthonfinemom- 

ings. Keep the house quite close in foggy 
weather, and let the temperature range from 
55° by day to 45° at night. Make a good selec¬ 
tion of eyes from early prunings, and, if young 
planting canes are wanted early in the spring, 
insert in sods or small 3-inch pots before 
Christmas. Keep them in a cold frame for 
three weeks, then place them in or over bottom 
heat. Cut back to the required length, or quite 
down to the pots, yearling Vines intended for 
planting. Dress the cuts with styptic, and 
keep them in a cold house until the time arrives 
for encouraging growth. If any lifting or border 
making in late houses is being put off until the 
Grapes are cut, take advantage of fine days for 
firing the Grape room, and cut as soon as the 
leaves fall from the Vines; meantime get the 
compost properly mixed, ready for use, and pro¬ 
tect from the weather. Prune mid-season 
houses, cleanse, paint, and put everything in 
working order, then throw open the ventilators 
at all times when the weather is not unusually 
severe. 

Hardy Fruit. —If frosty weather prevails, 
grab up old fruit trees, cut out all the dead 
wood in orchard plantations, and otherwise thin 
out the branches, particularly such as are crowded 
and intersect each other. All Moss or Lichen 
should also be rubbed off them, and if after¬ 
wards they can have a good splash over with 
newly-slaked lime, this will prevent the lichen 
from growing again for a long time to come, snd 
so put an end to a convenient harbour for insects. 
Usually, such orchards are on Grass, and, in the 
matter of manure, are left to take their chance, 
a circumstance more attributable to custom thsn 
to any real feeling that manure is not required, 
which it most certainly is, in order to ensure 
fine frnit. A good dressing of stable manure 
ought to be given every alternate year, and if 
this be scarce, soot and wood-ashes form a most 
excellent substitute, and should be applied now. 
in order that the winter rains may wash them 
down to the roots before growth commences. 
By thug annually devoting a few days' labour to 
old orchards, they might be made much more 
remunerative. 

If the sorts are not the best, and the trees are 
healthy, this can soon be remedied by grafting, 
and when pruning good kinds the shoots should 
be saved for grafts, and heeled in at the base 
of the trees till required in March. The trees 
that have to be graited may be headed down at 
once. Cut off ail ground suckers with a spade. 
Whilst the ground is hard through frost let all 
wheeling of manure and soil on to the fruit 
quarters be done; also clear up all pruuinp, 
hedge-clippings, and vegetable refuse of every 
kind for burning, the ashes from which is * 
valuable fertiliser for any crop. Though it seems 
wrong to prune trees in frosty weather, we have 
never noted any ill-effects from it; but we would 
recommend that only the commoner and hardier 
kinds be done, and this solely with the view ot 
forwarding the work. Currants, Gooseberries, 
and Raspberries may all be done in such weather 
as that we are now experiencing without soy 
risk of danger whatever. 

Fruit trees. —In order to effectually cleanse 
the trees from American blight, much pains will 
have to be taken to first of all wash it off with 
hot soapy water, and then to paint over the 
affected parts with a strong solution (8 ounc*f 
to the gallon) of Gishurst compound, or a strong 
solution of 6oft-soap water and half pint of 
paraffin oil added to 3 gallons of the solution is 
equally effective. A greater quantity of the 
oil might prove fatal, but this amount we tare 
proved to be both safe and a sure destroyer of 
the insect. 

Amongst all hardy fruits, Peaches and Cher- j 
ries are the most subject to attacks of sphis i 
early in summer, and, by way of prevention, 
these should always have a winter dressing of ^ 
the solution just named. Cherries may have it q 
as strong as recommended for American blight, ^ 
but Peaches should have the Gishurst at hut 
4 ounces to the gallon of water. The walls as 
well as the trees require dressing, and these we 
do with soapsuds fresh from the laundry applied ^ 
with the garden engine. Such an annual dress¬ 
ing, by preventing attacks of aphis, saves a \ 
large amount of labour and annoyance in the 
early summer months, when, through pressure of 
other work, it is difficult to find time to attend! 
to them. As soon as the frost disappears, P Url J 
to a close all arrests of draining, trenching. RI "I 


and a minimum temperatun 
produoe go 


minium temperature 
good cuttings *or.s)i 



Disc. 8, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


forming fruit tree borders, in order that the 
ground may get consolidated before planting 
the trees, which ought now to be delayed till 
February. See that recently planted trees are 
securely staked, and that both these and all 
that require manorial aid should at once have a 
thick covering of the best manure at command. 

Vegetables. 

We have cut our first dish of Asparagus. 
Our cook likes it green best, being better 
flavoured than when white. It is an easy matter 
to green it after it is cooked with water in which 
Spinach has been boiled, but the true Asparagus 
flavour is thus lost. We have a capital place in 
which to force it—an old Pine Btove, so that by 
not covering the roots above an inch deep in soil 
the light greens the Grass with little trouble. 
We lift the roots from old beds, and plant young 
beds yearly containing about the quantity we 
lift for forcing; therefore, we have always a 
stock for that purpose. As to Rhubarb, we force 
Hawk’s Champagne—the best variety to my 
knowledge—in the same pit; but we cover the 
crowns a foot deep with dry Oak leaves, and the 
Rhubarb comes up a fine crimson colour. Sea- 
kale we force in the beds in which it grows in 
the old-fashioned way, covering the crowns with 


that is, from the direction in which it has to tra¬ 
verse the greatest area of streets and houses, then 
the ventilators are better closed than open. On 
the other hand, it is undoubtedly extremely 
injurious to follow the practice adopted by some, 
of keeping the house closely shut up from 
October to March or April. But whenever the 
atmosphere outside is moderately clear and pure, 
particularly if the wind is from the south or 
west, or other favourable quarter, according to 
the situation, and fairly mild, then by all means 
open your ventilators, more or less according to 
the more or less favourable conditions, at least 
from ten or eleven in the morniDg till three in 
the afternoon ; even an hour in the middle of 
the day, if the sun shines out warm, and the 
wind is not too cold, will be better than nothing. 
Plants shut up close soon beoome so weak and 
delicate, that even if they live through till spring, 
they will not make nearly such good plants, 
while the least check or draught will frequently 
prove fatal. 

Watering, again, is a matter in which many 
mistakes are made; in fact, I believe very few 
amateurs really understand the right principles 
of watering, and many professional gardeners 
go sadly wrong sometimes. As a rule, plants 
require much less water in winter, when they are 


When leaves are falling daily, little is done with 
them until they are all down, when a thorough 
clearing up takes place, and everything is put 
into good order for the winter. The flower 
beds receive attention first; as soon as severe 
weather has destroyed their summer occupants, 
they are either cut down or pulled up and 
thrown away as the case may be, and the beds 
made ready for the reception of other plants. 
In some cases they are filled with hardy orna¬ 
mental-leaved shrubs or bushes, in others spring 
flowers and bulbs are introduced, and not a few 
are closely filled with pruninga of evergreens. 
Well coloured points of variegated Hollies, 
Aucubas, dark-leaved Bays, and different kinds 
of twigs with berries on them, if arranged 
according to colour and height, are very effec¬ 
tive, and retain their good appearance until 
April; in fact, we have sometimes found that 
Laurel shoots placed in flower beds now have 
struck root when drawn up in spring. In every 
instance the beds are filled as neatly as possible, 
and the walks and Grass around them are well 
cared for. All weeds are carefully removed 
from the pathways, as nothing gives pleasure 

§ rounds a more forbidding appearance than 
irty paths. It is an advantage to have these 
clean and in good condition in summer, but 


SPRINQ.- THE NAMES OF FLOWERS PREVAILING AT THIS SEASON ARE PRINTED IN PLAN. 



S3 


Section of a hardy plant border, showing the arrangement of the principal plants. Bulbs and numerous other plants of small growth are not Indicated in the plan, though 

intermixed with the larger masses. 


boxes with lids to them. We use leaves only 
for this crop, with the exception of a bit of long 
manure over the leaves to keep them in their 
places. We have a large quarter of Broccoli 
laid on their sides on the principle that small 
heads are better than none; still, I like covering 
np with Bracken better, as in that way the size 
is not diminished, and unless the thermometer 
falls below zero we are generally safe. We also 
cover our Spinach with Bracken. It keeps the 
leaves green. Sharp frosts and sharp nor’-easters 
brown all before them. Keep a good supply of 
all small salads for use at Christmas-time. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

It is of the greatest importance at this time of 
year, when every ray of light is of the greatest 
value, that the glass in all plant houses should 
be kept as clean and transparent as possible. 
This is of even greater importance in the town 
than in the country garden, the smoke and fog 
of a large town obstructing naturally so large a 
proportion of light; and, moreover, as all sur¬ 
faces become in town air so much more rapidly 
black and sooty, they must obviously need clean¬ 
sing so much more frequently. 

Ventilation is a pointneedinga considerable 
amount of care and judgment in the town green¬ 
house. At this time of year air should only be 
given when the atmospherical circnmstances are 
favourable, which is not too frequently the case, 
as if the air is too cold, a biting or frosty wind 
prevailing, or if it is very still and laden with 
fog, or, worse still, numberless minute particles 
of soot, or if it comes from the wrong quarter, 


Google 


more or less at rest, than when growing, and are 
therefore much better kept rather dry. This 
applies particularly to Pelargoniums of the show 
and fancy kinds, which will never do much good 
if not kept almost dry at this season, especially 
if in a low temperature. The zonal section need 
enough moisture to keep them fresh, and the 
young rootlets alive, but even these should be 
generally rather dry than wet, or even damp. 
Fuchsias, again, as well as Begonias, Gloxinias, 
and such like bulbous plants now at rest, must 
be kept dry, but not too much so, or they will 
shrivel. Hard-wooded plants at rest need great 
care, and should never be either very dry or wet, 
though Genistas will suffer if not maintained in 
a fairly moist condition. On the other hand, 
any plants in flower or advancing thereto, as 
Chinese Primulas, Cinerarias, Bouvardias, 
Cyclamen, &c., need a free but judicious supply 
of moisture. Cyclamen should always be moist, 
and Cinerarias and Calceolarias only very rarely, 
just a little dry, so as to keep the soil sweet. As 
a rule, water both these freely. Heaths, Azaleas, 
and Epacrises in bloom require abundant 
supplies. All watering is best done in the 
morning before twelve o'clock now, but never 
water in driblets. If a plant wants any, give it a 
good supply. B. C. R. 

PLEASURE GROUNDS IN WINTER. 

We have here extensive pleasure grounds, the 
owner of which is away most of the summer, 
but at home the greater part of the winter; 
therefore the grounds have to be kept as well or 
better in winter than in summer, and to do this 
properly requires s good deal of attention, 


doubly so in winter, as a well-made and well- 
kept walk is then so enjoyable. To have a walk 
really comfortable the centre should always be 
at least 6 inches higher than the sides; this 
elevation will always afford dry footing—an 
important consideration in winter. Where the 
walks are full enough, but have gone out of 
shape, the best way is to pick them up all over 
and form them afresh. Raking in the first in¬ 
stance and rolling frequently afterwards will 
soon put them in excellent condition. Next in 
importance to the walks is 

The lawn.— In order to have this in its best 
form now and on throughout the winter, any 
work requiring to be done on it must receive 
attention at the right time. Some who go over 
their Grass daily and sweep up the leaves almost 
as they fall, no matter whether the ground be 
wet or dry, generally succeed in taking all the 
close green velvety texture out of it, and through¬ 
out the winter it appears muddy and unattrac¬ 
tive. It is only when Grass is dry and the turf 
firm under foot that we ever do any sweeping 
on it in winter, and the result is that now and 
during the whole of the short days onr lawns are 
as attractive as they are in summer. The lawn 
mower is run over the Grass for the last time 
about the end of October, but that only when it 
is in good condition for doing so. At present it 
is dry here, and the Grass has been finally cut, 
leaves blown under bushes are being raked out, 
the Grass carefully swept and afterwards rolled, 
and then onr principal work in the pleasure 
grounds is almost completed for the winter. 

Trees and shrubs.—C leanliness and neat¬ 
ness being secured, we turn our attention to 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





456 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Dec. 8, 1883. 


pruning and cutting back trees and shrubs. 
This, however, we do not follow through from 
beginning to end like the cleaning; on the con¬ 
trary, it is generally work which lasts from 
November until March, as we do our pruning 
when frost and other circumstances prevent us 
from doing work in the kitchen garden or else¬ 
where. Some of the walks which are bordered 
with Laurels and other fast-growing shrubs are 
taken in hand first, as many of the branches of 
these grow 3 feet and 4 feet outwards in a sea¬ 
son, and these sometimes extend so far over the 
walk as to be in the way. Large banks of 
Xjaurels which require much clipping are left to 
the last, or they may be gone over during long 
spells of frosty weather. In dealing with the 
more choice subjects nothing but the knife is 
used, as a natural and graceful appearance is 
always preferable to any rigid, grotesque, close- 
shaven design ; in fact, with the exception of a 
few cone-shaped Irish Yews, there is no isolated 
bush in our extensive pleasure grounds that we 
ever allow to be clipped. Hedges are cropped 
and dressed throughout the winter. We never 
like to begin to prune evergreens until the leaves 
are off deciduous trees, and they are all pruned 
by the time when the buds begin to push again 
in spring. Those who follow this rule as to time 
of pruning will find it answer in every way, and 
in adhering to it they need never be at a loss to 
tell when to trim their bushes or think they are 
doing their cutting at an unseasonable or wrong 
time. C. 


Sohizostylis ooooinea.— During the last 
three months of the year numerous are the 
encomiums passed upon this plant, and well it 
deserves them, for it has few rivals as regards 
brightness and showiness of bloom, lasting 
quality wheu cut, and vigorous growth, and 
last, but not least, simple culture. In most of 
the good gardens we have lately visited about 
London we have found it in quantity either 
embellishing the conservatory, or greenhouse, 
or the open border. It is grateful for green¬ 
house shelter, and indeed it is only under glass 
that the flowers become fully developed. The 
best way to grow it is to put the plants out in a 
border of good light soil in spring, and well 
look after their wants throughout the summer, 
stimulating them with weak manure water now 
and then, and lift them in the beginning or 
middle of September and pot them for green¬ 
house decoration and cut flowers. 

Variegated New Zealand Flax.— The 
New Zealand Flax is one of the best of fine 
foliaged plants for plunging out of doors in 
summer, or for planting permanently in the 
milder parts of the kingdom. In the Isle of 
Wight both the plain green-leaved kind and its 
variegated variety do well out of doors as 
decorative plants, and, singularly enough, the 
variegated form is the hardier of the two, and 
when well established its long sword-like leaves 
have a striking appearance. This Flax is one of 
the plants really well suited for cool conserva¬ 
tories, winter gardens, and similar structures 
It is not fastidious as to soil; the leaves are 
easily freed from dust, and insect pests seldom 
affect either the type or the variegated form. 
Anyone having good, large plants ef either kind 
will find that by turning them out of doors 
during the Bummer months they are greatly 
benefited, and, moreover, look happy, which is 
more than can be said of many subjects now-a- 
days employed in sub-tropical gardening. These 
Flaxes do not need a high temperature at any 
time; indeed, they are not injured by even a 
few degrees of frost. These Yuccas, hardy 
Palms, and similar plants would add a real 
beauty to both our summer and winter gardens, 
and, with such material, plants that need a 
stove temperature need never be used for out¬ 
door decoration.—J. 

10684.— Sowing Iris seed.— It should be 
sown in March unless there is a command of 
heat, when it may be sown by the beginning of 
February. Fill a G-inch pot, having first well 
drained it, to within half-inch of the rim with a 
compost of two-thirds leaf-mould to one part of 
loam, adding one-fifth of the whole of silver 
sand. Make the surface firm and level, and 
water moderately before sowing, covering 
the seed thinly. Put a piece of glass on the 
pot, and stand in place free from draught, taking 
care that the soil never becomes dry. When the 
young plants apgpar remove the glass.—J. C. B. 

Go gle 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


PLANTS FOR WINTER BLOOMING. 

IN a general way plants intended for winter 
blooming are taken np and started for forcing 
at once, which is a great mistake, as with their 
roots disturbed and mutilated it is impossible 
for them to start so strongly and freely as they 
would were they potted early and encouraged 
to make fresh feeders. This being so, no time 
should be lost in making selections of what is 
most useful, and getting them together, as both 
evergreen and deciduous subjects may be moved 
now, and once in pots it is a good plan to stand 
them where they can be surrounded or plunged 
in a bed of fresh fallen leaves, which, by the 
slight warmth they afford, will amply excite the 
plants, and aid materially in enabling them to 
get renewed hold of the soil. Among the ever¬ 
green section of plants adapted for forcing none 
are more showy and valuable than 

Rhododendrons, quite large bushes of 
which may be dug up and potted without feel¬ 
ing much check. All that is necessary is to cut 
round them with a sharpe spade, so as to secure 
a ball as big as the pot will admit, to the shape 
of which the ball should be trimmed and then 
rammed in tight with a little fresh peat to fill 
up the interstices. The sorts of Rhododendrons 
to choose are the early kinds, as they require 
little forcing to get them in during March and 
April, and none at all if wanted in bloom later 
on. To be of service they mast be well set with 
bnds, which may be distinctly seen at the ends 
of the shoots, as they are very large and pro¬ 
minent, and differ from those that form wood. 
Next in point of merit to Rhododendrons are 
the hardy 

Azaleas, which, besides being almost equally 
showy, have the aditional merit of being sweet 
scented, and especially is this the case with the 
yellow kinds, most of which are deliciously fra¬ 
grant. Like Rhododendrons, they admit of 
being taken great liberties with by way of lift¬ 
ing, and may be dug up with large balls and 
set to work without feeling much check. 

Kalmias, too, root much in the same manner, 
forming perfect masses of hair-like feeders, 
which hold the peat together, so that the indi¬ 
vidual plants may be got with sufficient attached 
to live on and open their blossoms. Beautiful 
as these are outdoors, they are simply lovely 
forced, slightly flushed, as they then are, with 
delicate pink, which suffuses itself through the 
singularly crimped petals so waxy and charming 
in form. 

Lilacs are specially adapted for forcing and, 
by a little training or preparing, may be held 
either as little dwarf bushes or standards, the 
latter being particularly serviceable for stand¬ 
ing in vases in conservatories, or to project 
above other plants on greenhouse stages, in 
either of which positions they show themselves 
off to advantage. By starting and keeping 
Lilacs in the dark, the flowers come white with¬ 
out losing their sweet odour, and are very 
valuable for cutting or working np in bouquets. 
To have Lilacs and other deciduous plants of a 
similar nature really good, they must be pruned 
annually, so as to get plenty of nice young wood, 
which pruning should be done on part of the 
stock now, and the plants lifted and replanted 
in order to induce an abundance of roots close 
home, as much upon these and the growth they 
form depends the quantity of bnds they set, 
which only appear on shoots that are strong. 

Weioelas are first-class shrubs for forcing, 
as they are exceedingly floriferous, respond to 
heat readily, and last a long time in perfection. 
The best kind is W. Van Houttei, which has 
larger and deeper coloured blooms that the old 
W. amabilis, and makes a rare show. 

The Guelder Rose is another fine subject, 
with its large, globular balls of pure white 
flowers. With some this is thought a difficult 
plant to manage, but it is only shy blooming 
when dug from shrubberies without any pre¬ 
paration, where it comes up with very little 
root, and starts feebly without expanding its 
blossoms, but transplanted annually and well 
treated as to soil and manure, and pruned as 
recommended above, it is one of the best things 
for pots. Coming to herbaceous plants, the 

SpiRAlAS are perhaps the most important, the 
most noteworthy being S. japonica, which is sent 
over from Germany and Holland in great quan¬ 
tities, and may be had cheap in clamps, whioh, 


having strong crowns, may be depended on to 
produce maDy spikes of sweet-scented flowers 
Although not so serviceable for general purposes, 

8. palmata is much the showiest, as besides 
having handsome foliage, it bears large, pani- 
cular heads of the most lovely violet-pink 
blossoms. Both of these sorts being now ripe 
should be potted at once and stood in cold 
frames, where they will start gradually, and be 
ready to be drawn from for forcing. 

Lilies of the Valley are also imported in 
the same way, and may be had in single crowns 
or large clumps, the latter being the most pre¬ 
ferable, as they form nice compact tufts with 
plenty of leaves, which are a great ornament 
and set off their delicate blossoms. In forcing 
Lily of the Valley early, it is necessary to keep 
the plants in the dark and uniformly moist, 
which may best be done by using inverted pots 
over the crowns, or covering them with a good 
layer of damp Moss or Cocoa-nut fibre, which 
treatment coaxes them up, as it is in close imi¬ 
tation of their natural conditions. Another 
valuable plant for forcing is 

Solomon’s Seal, which bears numerous chaste 
silver coloured, bell-shaped flowers at the arils 
of the leaves up the entire length of its grace¬ 
fully arching stems, and having very elegant, 
delicate looking, green foliage, this Convallaria 
affords very choice bits for cutting. In digging 
up the roots, the strongest only should be se¬ 
lected, and the others planted again in rich beds 
of mould, to grow on and be ready for lifting 
next year. _ S. D. 

Whits eoale on Camellia*.— This is 
about the time of year when many begin to 
look for the presence of white scale on their 
Camellias—a great mistake. My experience 
tells me that we ought to commence cleansing 
Camellias when the buds first show themselves 
and from that time until they bloom we should 
look them over carefully once a week, with a 
piece of clean linen damped in pure water. One 
often finds a difficulty in cleansing the young 
buds and leaves without breaking them oS or 
injuring them ; in that case I find it best to 
take an ordinary camel hair-brush and use pure 
water. If this process is not begun early, it not 
only entails an immense amount of trouble 
where many plants are kept, but also great 
patience, and the loss of maDy buds.—G. F. 

Vallota purpurea.— This grand autumn 
flowering bulb, I feel sure, is not grown and 
cared for so much as it really deserves to be. For 
taking into consideration what rough usage it 
will endure, I think anyone may grow it with 
success. Now, as this plant does fairly well 
under adverse treatment, I may say it gets 
above its share of it, for one may go into many 
places where this plant exists, and where do »e 
find it standing 1 On the floor of the greenhouse 
in an out-of-the-way place, instead of being on 
a dry sunny shelf of vinery, or close to the front 
lights, for this plant always looks well. With a 
sponge of the leaves at times it makes a no mean 
effect with other plants, even on a greenhouse 
stage, and will well repay the cultivator if treated 
generously. It is a sun-loving plant, and should 
have a place near the glass in any light structure 

facing south. I once saw it doing most remark¬ 
ably well in a bay window, where it was erposed 
all the day to the sun, and there were three good 
spikes of bloom at the time of my calling, Sep¬ 
tember. It really was the favourite of the win¬ 
dow, for all others had to give place to it at time 
of blooming. Soil for this plant shonld be fib¬ 
rous loam three parts and rotten manure one 
part, with a good addition of coarse silver sand 
to keep it porous. Bear in mind that this plant 
does not like to be disturbed at the root. For 
this reason, the drainage shonld be made perfect 
—not merely put a few crocks in, as for a Pelar¬ 
gonium, or such like, in summer potting; but to 
place one piece over the hole at bottom, and 
others of smaller size over it, and a little Moss 
or leafy material to keep the soil from running 
into the drainage until the roots have taken pos¬ 
session of it. As repotting need not occur but 
once in three years, the soil shonld be made firm 
in potting, or the good properties of the materials 
will be washed away by the freqnent waterings 
I am very successful with it under this treatment, 
and I yearly have spikes of bloom with ten 
flowers on a spike.—C. Meacock, Belsix P* r *- 

Vol. I. “ Gardening ” U out of print, and ws are 
therefore uaaUe to further eupplp either lepwiat* son®* 
or bouud volumes. 



Dec. 8, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


TWO FINE LILIES. 

(LILIUM 8PECIOSUM BOSEUM AND L. S. ALBUM ) 
The lancifolium Lilies, or as they are now called 
gpeclosnm, are now among the most handsome 
of the family to which they belong. Their 
greatest drawback is that they are scarcely hardy 
enough for outdoor culture. For culture in pots, 
for the conservatory, or greenhouse, however, 


time water will not be necessary. The pots 
should be only tbree-parts full of soil, and 
this should consist of half turfy loam and half 
peat, with plenty of silver sand and a few pieces 
of charcoal added. When growth shows itself, 
enough water should be given to moisten the 
soil thoroughly, and the plants should be placed 
in a light, airy house or pit not far from the 
glass. When roots show all over the surface of 


457 


10661.— Flowers all the year round.— 

As you want to grow Grapes and Cucumbers, in 
addition to having flowers all through the year, 
it would certainly be preferable to divide the 
house into three compartments, but you will not 
need three boilers ; one will suffice, fixing it at 
one end of the structure, and having proper pro¬ 
vision made by means of valves heating the 
compartments separately. Thus the first com- 



they are the best that can be grown, and they 
can be brought to a high state of perfection with 
very little trouble. As several experienced 
correspondents have lately given exhaustive 
articles in these pages on Lily culture in pots, 
it is not necessary to go into details now, but 
the following outline of culture may be taken as 
a guide. The bulbs should be potted in Novem¬ 
ber, or as soon as the stems have died down. 
They should then be placed in a frame, or even 
in a shed, until growth commences, until which 

Digitizedb QjO' QlC 


the Boil, top-dress up with loam and well- 
decayed cow or horse manure in equal parts. A 
little soot water may be given occasionally to 
keep the foliage of a dark green healthy colour. 
After flowering, give only just enough water to 
keep the soil from getting dust dry, and place 
the plants in the full sun where the growth 
can ripen. Cut down when ripe, and repot for 
another year. The flowers from which our illus¬ 
tration was prepared were very fine ones, and 
came from Mr. Wilson’s garden at Weybridge. 


partment would be a warm house, where a 
temperature of 55° could be maintained through 
the winter. Therein could be grown such things 
as Poinsettias, Euphorbia jacquiniaaflora, Gar¬ 
denias, Eranthemum pulchellum, and other 
warm-house flowering plants, and a few of the 
best fine-leaved plants, 6uch as Dracmnas, Aralias, 
Pandanuses, &c.; also winter-flowering Begonias. 
If early Cucumbers are desired, a plant or two 
may be set out in this house, and, without taking 
np more than one aide of the roof, would give 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




















458 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Dec. 8, 1883. 


plenty of fruit during the late spring. In this 
house, too, propagation and seed sowing could be 
carried on at an early date. Many gardeners have 
only this convenience for the above-named pur¬ 
pose”, and succeed admirably. Weoncesawasmall 
glasshouse, the interior of which suggested 
how much variety can be secured in but a small 
structure. It was a span-roofed house, being 
some 30 feet long by 10 feet high. When I saw 
it one side of the roof was occupied partly by 
Cucumbers and partly by Stephauotis, both of 
which were planted out in a prepared border. 
The Cucumbers were finely in bearing, and the 
Stephanotis looked as healthy as possible. The 
space under them was utilised for propagating 
such things as Coleus, Alteruantheras, Verbenas, 
Ac„ and for seed sowing. The opposite side 
was filled with a miscellaneous collection of 
flowering and foliaged plants, Kerns, Ac., all 
doing well, and above the path was a shelf 
filled with pot Strawberries in good health. 
The time was the middle of May, and we thus 
see that that house contained fruit, flowers, and 
vegetables, all thriving. Had one of the side 
stages been open instead of being bricked up, 
llhubarb in plenty might have been had from 
Christmas onwards. If it is decided to join these 
compartments, the second could beused forbring- 
ing on Cyclamens, Primulas, Cinerarias, Zonal 
and other Geraniums, Heliotropes, Petunias, Ac., 
also any hard-wooded plants, such as Acacias, 
Cytisus, Heaths, Coronillas, Ac. It would also 
be an excellent house for Tea Roses, such as 
Niphetos and Adam, which are nearly always 
in bloom ; Lapagerias might be grown therein. If 
the plants were well prepared in summer, this 
house would be gay with Cyclamens, Geraniums, 
Primulas, Paris Daisies, winter blooming Heaths, 
Salvias and winter blooming Tropieolums, if only 
ordinary greenhouse temperature is maintained. 
The third division, and the one farthest removed 
from the boiler, should be planted with Black 
Hamburgh Vines, and this house might be used for 
sheltering bedding plants, as the foliage comes 
off the Vines before winter fairly sets in, and 
they could remain there until the middle of May. 
There would be good room for two Vines on each 
side — three might be grown, but we would 
prefer to give them plenty of space—then there 
would be a great deal more light in the house, 
and Ferns of various kinds would do under them. 
—Bvfleet. 

10678. — Culture of Clerodendron 

Balfouri.—The requirements of this plant are 
plenty of heat and moisture when growing, with 
a period of rest later on in a lower temperature. 
In the beginning of February the strongest 
shoots should be cut back to about one third of 
their length. Water carefully until growth com¬ 
mences, then shake away as much of the old 
soil as possible, replacing in a pot one size larger, 
using two thirds peat and one third loam, with 
plenty of sand in it, and giving good drainage. 
Be careful not to overwater until the soil be¬ 
comes well filled with roots, when liberal sup¬ 
plies will be needed, as by that time there will 
be free growth. A little shade will be necessary 
through the summer, but merely enough to pre¬ 
vent scorching, otherwise as much light as 
possible should be admitted. Ventilate freely 
on fine days, closing early in the afternoon, aDd 
damping down the house, doing all, in fact, to 
promote strong healthy growth. By the middle 
of July growth will be completed, and then more 
air and light must be admitted, and a drier 
atmosphere maintained, in order to ripen the 
wood —J. C., llyfleet. 


10666.— Planting out OamelliaB.— They 
may either be planted just as they have ceased 
growing or when young shoots are commencing 
to form in spring. It would certainly be better to 
spread the roots out and free them from all the 
old soil before planting, but that doing bo 
would involve the destruction or mutilation of 
many of the best roots. The great danger in 
planting with balls of soil entire consists in the 
liability of their becoming dry afterwards, when 
it is very difficult to get them moist again. 
One way of obviating this difficulty is to pierce 
the ball through from top to bottom with a 
sharp iron skewer in several places. This will 
do no harm, and will ensure water passing into 
the old soil. Then again the new compost 
should be pressed around the old, so that both 
are of equal firmness, and a shallow basin may be 
formed around the stem. Let the Boil be fibrous 
and rather lun ^y~j» pcat and 1 


gt 


equal parte 


forms a good compost, adding plenty of silver 
sand.—J. C. B. 

-Plant out the Camellias as soon as they 

commence to make young growth. The border 
should be well drained, soil equal proportions of 
good fibrous peat and loam, with a dash of sand 
through it; try and shake out the roots a little. 
If the ball is hard, take a pointed stick and 
prick all round until you get some of the roots 
loose, bruising them as little as possible. Make 
the soil firm when planting. The aspect and 
shade of the vines overhead will just suit them. 
—J. Robertson. 

10681.—Plantain Lilies.—Keep them in a cold frame 
or in a cool greenhouse if you wish to grow them in pots, 
or plunge the pots to their rims close to a north wall. 
They aro perfectly hardy, and thrive well in almost any 
soil without protection when planted in the open ground. 
—J. C. B. 

-Plantain Lilies are perfectly hardy, but as you 

have them in pots you may place them in a cold frame. 
Plunge the pots up to the rim in ashes to keep the froBt 
from cracking them, and do not keep them dry, but if 
pluuged in ashes water will not often be needed.—J. 
Robertson. 

10690.— Hyacinths.—Presuming your Hyacinths are 
covered with ashes or leaf-mould, as Boon as the crown 
has pushed up about an inch take them out and place 
near the glass out of the reach of frost. Put an inverted 
flower pot over them for a few days. Expose them to 
the light gradually.—J. Robertson. 


FRUIT. 

Currants'and Gooseberries on low 

walls.—The question is frequently asked what 
to plant on walls 6 feet or 6 feet high, for in 
many cases I find them covered with useless 
rubbish, or quite bare, and consequently un¬ 
sightly. After trying various modes of covering 
them, I find nothing yield such good returns as 
Currants and Gooseberries. The Red Grape 
Currant that produces very long bunches so 
useful for dessert; the White Dutch is also an 
excellent dessert fruit, and red, white, and 
yellow Gooseberries make a most acceptable 
addition to autumn dessert fruits, and on walls 
the fruit can be easily preserved by hanging 
fish nets over them. The system of pruning 
and training I find suit well is to plant one- 
year-old bashes about 3 feet apart, training 
one shoot each way in an horizontal position 
until the points meet within 6 inches of each 
other, then turn them up and train erect to the 
top of the wall; plenty of young shoots will 
push up from these. Select the strongest, and 
train up at 6 inches apart until the wall is com¬ 
pletely clothed with fruitful wood, the leading 
shoots being nailed np as growth progresses, 
and all foreright shoots spurred in closely; and 
when the wall gets clothed from base to summit 
with fruitful wood, it is surprising the quantity 
of fruit a wall of this kind will produce. It keeps 
far better than on open bushes, as it is so much 
drier. In fact it takes a good deal of rain to 
get through the screen of foliage, and if it is 
desired to keep the fruit very late in the season, 
a good wide coping board may be put on as an 
additional safeguard, and will be well repaid 
by the good keeping of the crop.— James Gboom, 
Gosport. 

The keeping of Grapes.— The peat 
difficulty in the case of non-professional 
gardeners who have vineries to manage is the 
keeping of Grapes. It is seldom that Hamburghs 
can be kept much after Christmas, as they are a 
thin-skinned Grape ; but Lady Downes, Mrs. 
Pince, Barbarossa, Gros Colmar, and Alicante will 
keep till March if the atmosphere surrounding 
them is kept cool and dry. The easiest and best 
way to preserve them till that season is to 
cut and bottle them, that is to take the 
bunches off the Vines with wood attached, 
the lower ends of which should then be inserted 
in bottles of water. If both bottles and Grapes 
are then hung np in a dry, airy room, the Grapes 
will remain plump and good and retain their 
fresh piquant flavour. There is a double advan¬ 
tage in cutting and keeping Grapes in the above 
mentioned way, as it gives a chance of pruning 
the Vines and cleaning the vineries, both matters 
of the greatest importance, especially the former, 
as when deferred till late the Vines are sure to 
bleed, and the loss of sap has a most serious 
weakening effect. To save any risk from bleed¬ 
ing when pruning has to be deferred, it is a good 
plan to UBe styptic, which, if rubbed on the out 
part, stops the pores and seals up the sap vessels. 
Styptic, however, is useless after bleeding begins, 
as when the wood is wet, it will not adherei and 


should therefore be pat on directly the pruning 
is done. The vinery and glass ought then to beali 
washed and cleaned, so as to do away with in¬ 
sects, and let in the full flow of light. To get 
dirty green deposit off paint and wood, there is 
nothing like soft soap and water, which, syringed 
on and left to soak for a bit, soon softens it, and a 
rub with abru9h sets it adrift, when it can be 
rinsed off at once. Stems of Vines, too, arealBo 
all the better for a scrub, a9 they, like ourselves, 
to be healthy must have clean skins. To denude 
them of their bark, as some do, is a gTeat 
mistake, as that is their natural covering, and is 
requisite as a protection against heat and cold. 
The only portion that should, under any circum¬ 
stances, be removed, is that which is seen to be 
loose or hanging in shreds, as it clearly shows 
then that the Vine, not needing it longer, is 
oasting it off.—S. D. 

10659.— Forcing Grapes.— I should think 
that the first week in March would be quite early 
enough to close the house to get the Grapes ripe 
in August, but it depends in some measure on 
the variety, the after-treatment, and on the 
season. Last year we commenced forcing a 
house of Hamburghs on February 13, and cut 
the first bunch of Grapes on July 2. This year 
we commenced firing on February 12, and cut 
the first on July 3. The pruning might be done 
as soon as the leaves have fallen. If enough 
fermenting material be put on the leader to 
produce a gentle heat, it would prevent that 
flagging of the leaf which occurs when the 
ground is frozen outside whilst the sun is 
shining on the house. “ Anxious ’’ did not ssy 
whether his Vines are newly planted or old 
ones. Some varieties (as the Alicante, for in¬ 
stance) are liable to partially miss fruiting if 
they are pruned back to the last bud at the bare 
of the lateral. ThiB season I saw an Alicante 
Vine with four rods that failed to produce fruit 
(apparently from the cause just mentioned) ou 
nearly all the upper laterals.—L. C. K. 

- When it is required to have Grapes rips 

on the first of August, it is not necessary to force 
very hard; if the house is started early in February 
with a gentle heat it will be sufficiently early. 
Prune the Vines at once. Those that grew very 
strong and produced plenty of roots will be sure 
to fruit well next year; leave plenty of the strong 
young wood. If you have put a coating of stable 
litter on the border outside, that will be quite 
sufficient; no fermenting material is necessary, 
unless you wanted the Grapes to ripen in June. 

—J. D. E. 

-To have grapes ripe by August shut up the 

vinery early in February. Give no fire heat(ei- 
cept the weather be frosty) until March; keeping 
the house closed will be sufficient to start with. 
Making a hotbed on the border will be found to 
be of great advantage in starting root action, 
and drawing the roots to the surface, where you 
can easily feed them. Make the bed about 3 
feet thick, say three weeks after shotting up the 
house ; the material should be half stable manure 
and half leaves. The heat of the bed should be 
95°; if it gets too hot turn it over and add more 
leaves. Prune the Vines as soon as the leaves 
are off. If the two strong Vines mentioned have 
been well ripened, they should fruit next year — , 

J. Robebtson. 

10662.—Vine roots unreatricted.-As 

the Vines do not produce such large bunches as 
they uBed to do, the fault is probably in the 1 
system of pruning. If the old rods have been ' 
closely Bpnrred back every year, the buDches 
will decrease in size. You should renew the j 
rods by training up yonng canes, as probably t 
your own experience has taught you that the || 
best bunches are produced from strong young « 
wood. It may also be necessary to renew the t 
border, and this is done by cutting a trench, | 
say, 12 feet from the front of the vinery, aod ^ 
parallel with it, say 2 feet deep, or, if the border ■< 
has been made with a concrete or brick rubbish (| 
bottom, you must dig down to it. With a steel 
fork work up to the front wall, removing the ^ 
soil, and saving as much as possible of the $ 
roots. ThiB may be done up to within 3 feet of * 
4 feet of the front wall. Replace the old soil ^ 
with good loam, enriched with a sixth part of ^ 
rotten stable manure. The roots must be tare- t t 
fully Bpread out in this compost, and they must. ^ 
be kept near the surface. If you can obtain L 
some crushed bones, it makes an CtMilWtu 
manure for Vires in the proportion of a owt. td^ 

/ 



Dec. 8, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


459 


six cart loads. Some mortar or plaster rubbish 
is also a good addition to the compost.—J. D. E. 

10660.— Grapes Bhrivelling.— There is no 
doubt whatever but that your Grapes are shrivel¬ 
ling because the Vines are too dry at the roots. 
Whit can be done ? yon ask. The mischief is 
done, and it cannot be altered this year. You 
did right to give the Vines a watering with tepid 
water; but by this time the leaves must have 
dropped, and to continue giving tepid water 
would start them into premature growth. When 
the Grapes are cut prune the Vines, and prepare 
them for starting next year.—J. D. E. 

-I am afraid the shrivelling is caused by 

some defect at the roots. You should make en¬ 
quiries and see if previous crops have gone in the 
same manner; if so, I should be very dubious 
about the roots being in bad condition, and the 
sooner the border is removed the better. If the 
grapes are ripe, cut off some bunches with a 
piece of wood attached, place the wood into the 
neck of a bottle in water, with the bunch hang¬ 
ing down. I have seen shrivelled berries fill up 
plump by so doing. If successful, by trying a 
few bunches, you may do the others in the same 
way; keep them in a dry room. The fruit must 
be ripe, or the experiment will fail.—J. Robkrt- 
son. 

10672— Vines for unheated house.— 

Tbe following are the names of a few Vines that 
would do very well in a cool house—Black 
Hamburgh, Black Prince, Buckland Sweetwater, 
Pearson's Golden Queen, and Royal Muscadine. 
The fruit of Black Hamburgh and Buckland 
Sweetwater is much superior to the other three 
named, but Royal Muscadine will be found to 
be the most hardy, and I believe the best bearer 
in a cool house.— J. Robertson. 

10665. — Peaches not ripening. — The 

Peach trees had probably a bad attack of mil¬ 
dew, which caused the fruits to drop. You are 
probably right in supposing that the roots 
require attention. If they have run down into a 
bad subsoil, that would cause the mildew to 
appear. On its first appearance you should dust 
with flowers of sulphur. You might remove 
six inches or more of the top soil and renew it 
with good fresh loam, placing over it three 
inches of rotten manure. The border may also 
require draining; if so, that should be seen to 
first.—J. D. E. 

10*37.—Covering Vine borders —The best mi- 
terial to cover Vine borders with is fresh stable manure. 
If you have any extra frame lights place on the top of 
the manure to take off the water ; failing that, thin 
boards laid down, over lapping each other, will do.—J. 
Eobkrtsok. 

10612 .—Vines for unheated houses.—The best 
Vino by far for your purpose la Black Hamburgh. If you 
alao want a white variety, plant Foster's White Seedling. 
-J. D. K. _ 

VEGETABLES. 


NOTES ON GROWING ASPARAGUS. 
This, the moBt delicious of all vegetables, is 
more generally cultivated now than it was a 
number of years ago. At one time it was almost 
exclusively confined to the gardens of the 
wealthy, but now everyone fortunate enough to 
have a garden has an Asparagus bed. Here we 
have half an acre or more devoted to it, and 
this extent will probably be doubled in the 
spring, as none of our vegetables are so useful or 
acceptable from November until June as Aspa¬ 
ragus. 

Soil. —Low, damp ground or a stiff soil is 
i iinoua to it, and those who attempt its culture 
Turder such conditions will never succeed, 
ft the roots should live, it will only be for a short 
time; they will dwindle away and perish here 
and there, or wholly before they have yielded a 
satisfactory return for the outlay connected with 
their culture. I have planted Asparagus on very 
stiff, half clayey soil, in soil loose on the surface, 
but retentive underneath, and in places where 
it was light throughout, and in the latter it suc¬ 
ceeded as well as one could desire it to do, but 
under the other circumstances just named it was 
never satisfactory. Now we plant nowhere but in 
the lightest of soil, and never experience any 
failure. As is well known, the roots of Asparagus 
are soft and fleshy, and not at all suited to run 
into or exist in clay or stiff soil, tut they are 
thoroughly at home in porous material. It is an 
old-fashioned plan to put a quantity of branches 
under an Asparagus bed where the soil is Heavy, 
but it is by no means a gud 


soon rot and make the ground beneath worse than 
if they had never been there. Making the beds 
high and dry, with a wide deep trench between 
each, is another common mode of procedure, but 
it has nothing to recommend it, and may be con¬ 
demned as a waste of ground, resulting in inferior 
produco. In short, I dislike Asparagus beds of 
any kind, and would never form them or advise 
anyone else to do so. 

Position. —The best way of growing this escu¬ 
lent is to plant it row after row on level ground, 
and allow plenty of space between the plants. 
Having tbe roots only 1 foot or so from 
each other, or crowding them together in any 
form, will never result iu fine-sized produce. 
I have seen Asparagus beds the summer 
growths of which formed a perfect forest, 
a mass of stems and weeds. Such planta¬ 
tions could not be expected to yield superior 
produce. Under the improved system of culture, 
plenty of space is allowed both crowns and roots. 
The tops are never crowded, and therefore there 
is abundance of room for ordinary routine opera¬ 
tions, and the young heads come up strong and 
succulent. For years we have not planted any 
of our Asparagus roots closer than 3 feet apart 
each way, and as every alternate root is lifted 
for forcing, many of them are 5 feet and 6 feet 
asunder. Referring to the soil in which these 
are growing, I may remark that it is very light, 
but previous to planting it was all trenched up 
to the depth of 20 inches. As this went on a 
large quantity of all kinds of vegetable refuse 
was placed at the bottom of each trench ; after¬ 
wards a slight coating of manure was forked 
into the surface, and when finished the ground 
was altogether in a suitable state for the recep¬ 
tion of the roots. One piece done and planted 
in this way half a dozen years ago has gone on 
improving annually, and now I would not 
exchange my Asparagus plantation for any other 
I have seen. In preparing quarters for subse¬ 
quent plantations, all have been treated in tbe 
way j ust described. 

Forming new plantations. —Where there 
is no choice of soil, all being heavy, I would 
begin preparing for Asparagus by trenching and 
adding the refuse as has just been suggested, 
and a large quantity of sand or rough grit should 
be forked well into it previous to adding any 
manure. Ashes, which are sometimes used to 
lighten heavy soil for certain crops, should not 
be used for Asparagus, as I never found the 
roots do well where they came in contact with 
them. Wood ashes are not so objectionable, and 
if mixed with a quantity of general charred 
refuse, they are very acceptable. Amongst 
artificial manures, ground bones are the best for 
Asparagus, and horse droppings, especially in 
the case of heavy soils, are better than cow 
manure. When the soil, however, is properly 
prepared at first, no extra additions are required 
for Borne years, and then they should be chiefly 
applied as top-dressings, unless the roots are far 
enough apart to allow of some dwarf crop being 
grown between the rows, when it may be 
necessary to dig or fork in a quantity of manure 
before sowing or planting the catch crop. Now 
is the time to prepare for new plantations to be 
made in the spring. Trenching should be seen 
to without delay. An open, sunny, dry spot is 
not too good a situation for Asparagus; in fact, 
nothing is too good for it, and extra attention in 
respect to it will not be thrown away. In order 
to keep up an annual supply of roots for forcing 
or for any other purpose, there is no better plan 
than sowing an ounce or two of seed every 
spring. This may be done in any corner, as tbe 
roots will be transferred to properly prepared 
situations when one year old. We sow every 
April, and in the following April the plants from 
this sowing are planted in good soil about 2 feet 
apart, and next season they are sometimes all 
transplanted again at distanoes of 3 feet and 
■1 feet apart, or every other one only is taken to 
fresh quarters. Asparagus may be transplanted 
at almost any age with the greatest success 
provided it is not kopt long out of the soil; but 
when the roots are allowed to dry up, it is a long 
time before they get over the check they thus 
receive. It is for this reason we always prefer 
home-raised seedlings to bought-in plants; the 
former can be taken up and planted again before 
feeling the change, but the latter often suffer 
much in transit. 

Eaiilv AsrAKAuus.—Lately we have lifted 
many scores of roots for forcing, as it ts about 


this season we take up all that we require to 
keep us going throughout the winter. They are 
lifted immediately the stems wither. The latter 
are cut off, and to keep the roots comfortable 
until wanted for forcing they are spread out in 
cold frames and covered over with some old mats 
or hay. Lifting them in this way may do them no 
good, but at the same time it does them no barm; 
our main object is convenience, as should frost or 
snow occur it is a difficult matter to get them dug 
up, but when stored away in frames they are 
ready at all times. As soon as all the roots we 
want for forcing have been lifted, those remaining 
are mulched with juicy manure, and it is as¬ 
tonishing how well they sprout up in spring 
when this protection is removed and forked into 
the surface around each crown. Forcing As¬ 
paragus is a favourite practice with us. We have 
been cutting a dish of it almost every other day 
since the end of October, and will go on doing 
so for some months yet to come, but there is no 
secret in forcing thus early; a very great amount 
of heat is not even necessary. It is, however, 
most desirable that the roots should be well 
developed, and above all well matured, and the 
only way to insure this in such seasons as these, 
or indeed at all times, is to avoid the old system 
of crowding the roots and growths together, and 
grow them so wide apart that each root may be 
regarded as an isolated plant and not a matted 
bed. Quill-like growths are the rule as regards 
the latter, biit substantial heads, 1 inch or more 
in diameter, are the kind we are accustomed to 
cut from plants set widely apart. C. 


Yellow and white Turnips.— It often 
strikes one as being singular why so few yellow 
Turnips are grown in England, while white 
fleshed kinds are always met with. The former 
are admitted to be much more pleasant to the 
palate than the white kinds. At Scotch exhibi¬ 
tions of vegetables white Turnips are less 
common than at southern shows. I am of 
opinion that yellow kinds are of more value for 
human food than white sorts, and that Swedes 
are as wholesome and nutritious as any others, 
and the latter seldom fail to grow in any soil or 
district. In some of the western counties of 
England I have seen most tempting dishes made 
with Swedish Turnips. In many parts of 
Ireland and Scotland, too, I have seen them 
used largely by the peasantry. The English 
peasantry are generally ignorant of the use of 
Swedish Turnips, Leeks, and Borecole. This is 
unfortunate, as the remuneration for labour is 60 
small among that class compared with what is 
paid in Scotland, and were a proper knowledge 
of the value of these easily grown and most 
whosesome of vegetables known in England as 
they are in the north, much suffering might be 
averted. There is a prejudice among many of 
the lower classes in England respecting certain 
articles of diet, notably oatmeal, whilst among 
the middle and higher classes the demand for 
and use of it is increasing rapidly. Returning 
to Turnips, it may be worth while to remind 
those who have them still in the ground to draw 
soil- over the bulbs, whioh will act as a pro¬ 
tection as well as retain the crispness of the 
Turnips.—M. F. 

10676.— Planting Onions for seed — 

All that you have to do is to well stir the soil 
about the first week in March, adding plenty of 
short manure. Ret the bulbs about 6 inches 
apart, and when they come into flower, pnt some 
stakes in at intervals along the rows, and on 
each side of them, and attach strings to 
them, as the weight of the heads, when the seed 
is formed, is apt either to cause them to be 
broken off close to the ground in stormy 
weather, or to be thrown on the ground.— 
J. C. B. _ 

The common green Holly.— If a tenth 
part of the care so often lavished upon exotic 
evergreens were bestowed on the Holly, our 
gardens would gain thereby. Nothing in the 
winter season can compare with a Holly tree 
full of berry, and even when adverse seasons 
rob it of that charm, its glossy, deep green 
foliage always comands admiration. It is not 
in all places that the variegated kinds grow 
with freedom, but the old, green English Holly 
is at home everywhere. It is doubtful if we 
make so much of our native evergreens as we 
should do, and we certainly do not as a rule 
accord the Holly the position which it merit- 
—C. UI»IVtr\3II I Ur ILLIHUI3 fll 



460 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Dec. 8, 1883. 


AN AMATEUR'S GREENHOUSES. 
have two very small greenhouses, quite un¬ 
heated. The last three winters have been fairly 
hard; I have also been away and have had no 
regular gardener, only a labourer, who tried to 
do what he was told. What is the result ? My 
“ show ’’ greenhouse off the house lias an east 
aspect, is about 18 feet by 6 feet; the other is 
west, about 10 feet by 14 feet. Now, for such 
small houses the great thing is to have good 
plants in small pots, yet have real good leafage. 
To achieve this I follow a system of my own. 
The east greenhouse suits Fuchsias splendidly; 
for such a house pyramid Fuchsias of any size 
would be too large, but I grow lovely bush plants 
on the following plan : After flowering I turn 
them out of the pots, shake out the roots, cut 
away all the tap roots, leaving only the fibrous 
roots by the stem, then I put one or two shards 
in the same pot as before, it being well washed, 
over that a little Fern or fibre, then a mass of 
old cow or other manure almost up to roots, then 
good garden mould about roots; very few of 
them remain up to within half inch of top of pot. 
If early in autumn I then water constantly in 
great quantity till winter; in winter rest, in 
spring lots of water. I had twenty flowers on 
Aurora at the end of a single small branch in a 
bunch, each flower 3 or 4 inches long. Friends 
said they had never seen anything like it, others 
say the foliage is almost too rich. I never use 
manure water, never have an insect for any 
length of time, and have sp’endid plants in very t 
little space through root pruning constantly. 
Again, Chrysanthemums are troublesomely large 
for so small a house as usually grown. I could not 
manage them with the housing of all the garden 
plants, so I go in for small plants with a good 
crown of flowers on single stems. To do 
this I cut off, in June or July, a number 
of tips promising flower from old bushes 
out-of-doors; these cuttings I strike in a few 
days in a moist bed in west greenhouse; once 
struck, I root them up with the fork about once 
a fortnight, leaving them in bed but keeping 
roots quite free in the earth with lots of 
moisture. They grow wonderfully quick; about 
September I plant them in pots, small pots will 
do, unless three or four young plants are to be 
put together. The roots, being accustomed to 
be shaken, get no check. I then stand the 
pots in water, in a sheltered place out of doors 
I think is best till there is dangerof frost. I have 
this way plants on single stems bearing about 
twelve blossoms, each bloom near 4 inches or 5 
inches across; these in 3-inch or 4-inch pots 
only; the foliage is beautiful, growth firm and 
graceful; no manure water, no mildew, or 
insects. I have lost a good many plants from cold 
during recent winters, but Fuchsias can always 
be relied on. Even if cut to the ground, they 
start again more beautifully. I have a Lemon 
tree which I have treated j ust like the Fuchsias, 
cutting off almost all its roots and putting in a 
ridiculously small pot; it looks as well as possible. 
Same way with Myrtles, Geraniums, &c. I 
should say, as a rule, to people with small green¬ 
houses and those to whom expensive pots are a 
consideration, you may safely cut away three- 
fourths of the old hard root growth on every 
plant which forms tap or woody roots like 
Fuchsias or Geraniums. If the plants are old, 
full of hard exhausted roots, the first cut will 
check, but it will be quickly made up by the 
vigorous aftergrowth, but if the plant be 
reared on this system, it will have such 
a lot of fibrous roots, it won't feel the 
check. I took out of the open ground this 
year large Fuchsias grown thus, and planted 
out in spring just when they were coming 
into flower, cut away most of their roots in mid¬ 
summer; they lost neither leaf nor flower, but 
bloomed all the autumn. But after this process 
they must be regularly flooded with water till 
started, and kept in cold dark planes, and if the 
foliage flags at all it must be kept quite wet. 
About a week will establish them. Every scrap of 
root thus is vigorous young growth, able for the 
rich nourishment provided, and forany amount of 
water. But Fuchsias must never stand in water, 
even for a day. They must have perfect drain¬ 
age. I seldom use for any plant more than one 
or two bits of broken pot, but then fix them 
down in their place with either Fern, fibre, or 
manure. Given a very small, quite unheated 
greenhouse, some sort of rearing house also un¬ 
heated, one may hagp flowers 
round, and plants in more pc 


almost all the year 
Cfec!) health than in 


8 “- 


warmer houses. I had fine Grapes, too, early in 
September, in the west house, my neighbours 
who had heat all the winter having theirs a 
month later. Therefore, if people don't find 
they can get things to do well without heat, it 
is their own fault, not the fault of nature. I 
have Pelargoniums (not zonals) in flower now, 
one bearing nine or ten fine bunches of bloom. 

C. G. O'Brien. 


HOW TO MAKE A LAWN AND KEEP IT 
IN ORDER. 

Seasons may vary, and our flower beds may vary 
with them, sometimes be successful, and some¬ 
times disappointing, but in our peculiar and 
fitful climate the Grass lawn is always sure to 
afford satisfaction and pleasure, provided it has 
been properly made at the outset, and properly 
treated afterwards. A lawn should be spacious, 
in proportion to the size of the garden, even, 
smooth, always green, and pleasant to walk 
upon. To have it like this, it must be well made 
and well kept, but most depends on the making 
of it; and the main points to be considered in 
regard to these matters are the levelling, drain¬ 
age, trenching or digging, sowing or turfing, 
and keeping ; and these we propose to treat of 
separately. 

Rough levelling.— This term applies to 
lawn making, whether the giound is intended to 
be flat or undulating. As a rule the latter feature 
predominates, only tennis lawns and croquet 
grounds, &c., being laid out quite flat and level. 
Levelling undulating ground consists in simply 
filling up hollows and reducing knolls or hillocks 
on the give-and-take principle, se as to give the 
surface an even and pleasing contour without 
disturbing the general form of the ground, except 
in the case of slopes and terraces, which must be 
set out accordingly at the beginning. In cases 
where the ground is very uneven, it sometimes 
becomes necessary to remove the good surface 
soil temporarily, and level the subsoil, or even 
remove a portion of it from the place—work 
which involves considerable expense. On no 
account should the good soil be buried under 
such circumstances, but be put aside to go on the 
top again when levelling is finished. Much need¬ 
less labour and expense in forming a lawn on 
difficult ground may be saved by the judicious 
planning and planting of the ground, and no 
steps should be taken in regard to the lawn till 
the shrubberies, clumps, beds, and walks, &c., 
are all set out, and their position and levels as¬ 
certained ; as far as possible, all heavy planting 
should also be finished beforehand. All tree 
roots and large stones should also be removed 
from the ground, particularly the former, which 
if left will decay in time, causing the soil to fall 
in, and making the surface very uneven and un¬ 
sightly, not to speak of the fungi which the de¬ 
caying roots generate, and which appear annually 
in the shape of masses of offensive Toadstools 
all through the antumn. 

Drainage. —A general rough level having 
been effected, the drainage must be then seen to, 
the extent and nature of which will depend a 
good deal upon the formation. Thin and natu¬ 
rally dry soils are better without drainage, as it 
only tends to starve the Grass in dry seasons; 
but, as a rule, drainage is necessary to carry 
away superfluous water quickly, and prevent 
melted snow and heavy rains flooding the lawn 
for any length of time. For comfort’s sake, 
lawns, like walks, should be dry. Drains 4 feet 
deep and from 16 feet to 30 feet apart, accord¬ 
ing to the situation, with a 3-inch tile in the 
bottom, and 6 inches of broken stones or rough 
cinders above the tiles, and a ready outfall to a 
main drain of sufficient capacity to prevent 
“ drowning,” will be sufficient in most cases; but 
in retentive soils or swampy peat even more than 
this may be needed. As a rule, a good guide in 
such cases is the amount of drainage found to 
be necessary on the farm lands of the district; 
what is sufficient for these will suffice for a 
garden lawn also. 

Trenching the ground. —The main beauty 
of a lawn consists in its fresh and green appear¬ 
ance, and to secure this for as long a period as 
possible throughcut the year, the soil must be 
deep, rich, and dry; hence trenching in all cases is 
almost a necessity. It is rarely that a piece of 
natural ground is found to be of uniform depth 
throughout. Nor is it needful that it should be 
so; but it is important that the gradations from 
' the shallow to the deeper portions should be 


gradual, and even otherwise the ground is certain 
to be " patchy,” one of the worst faults a lawn can 
have. The finer Grasses and Clover will pre¬ 
fer those spots where the soil is deepest and 
richest, and forsake those portions where it is 
thin and poor, which will be usurped by Moss 
and weeds, and in dry seasons the latter will 
suffer first, and become brown and withered- 
looking, thus spoiling the appearance of the sward. 
We have seen lawns on which obliterated walks 
that had not been trenched to the same depth 
as the rest of the ground, remained perfectly 
distinct by the nature of the vegetation pro¬ 
duced for over thirty J years afterwards. What¬ 
ever depth, therefore, the soil can be trenched, 
and which will depend upon the nature of 
tue ground and the cost, it shoild be 
trenched to a uniform depth, and the subsoil in 
the bottom of the trench should be turned np 
rough with a strong fork as well; but any bad 
soil which may be dug up must be thoroughly 
mixed with the good soil, and not left on the 
surface next the sod, for bringing up bad bottom 
soils on a lawn ground is not like doing the same 
on ground constantly cultivated by the spade or 
plough. Proceed by opening a good wide trench 
the width of the piece, and turn over the ground 
in a regular manner till the whole is finished, 
and then leave it for a good while to settle. 
Afterwards the surface should be finally levelled, 
and if any manure is to be given it should be 
dug into the surface at the same time. If the soil 
be naturally good, no manure will be needed , 
but if poor it will be much benefited by the 
application of rotten farmyard manure, rotten 
leaves, or vegetable refuse. Good fresh loam, 
free from weeds, is also excellent for the purpose. 
This trenching and manuring should be per¬ 
formed as early in autumn as possible ; and the 
winter rains and frosts will Bettle the soil better 
and more evenly than ramming or rolling, 
neither of which are advisable. 

Saving Grass Seed.— This is by far the best 
plan of forming a pure, clean Grass sward, free 
from those weeds and coarse Grasses which mar 
the appearance of so many lawns, and which are 
inseparable from lawns made from the natural 
turf. When seed has to be sown, the ground, 
being already prepared as advised, should be 
made ready for sowing in April by treading 
(rolling will not do) the soil evenly, raking it 
smooth, and removing all stones and lumps pro¬ 
jecting above the surface; after which the seed 
should be sown thickly, and harrowed in slightly 
by a short, blunt-toothed iron rake, and rolled 
down. Grass seeds, mixed in the right propor¬ 
tions, for the purpose, are most conveniently pro¬ 
cured from respectable seed houses ; but samples 
differ greatly, some “ mixtures ” containing more 
weeds and coarse Grasses than others, and which 
give the lawn quite a coarse appearance. Only 
the most respectable seed houses Bell good Grass 
seeds, and with a list of the different Grasses 
which the mixtures are said to contain, no one 
should have any difficulty in procurirg what they 
want. The quantity of seed to an acre should 
not be less than 60 lb, and if much more can 
be afforded all the better. As a rule, seed is 
sown much too thinly, and years elapse before a 
dense turf is formed. By sowing thickly enough, 
however, and manuring judiciously, a good lawn 
may be had the same season the seed is sown. 
Good seed is rather dear ; but when we take into 
consideration the cost of procuring turf, laying 
it down, watering, rolling, and tending it, sowing 
is probably the cheapest plan, as it is un¬ 
doubtedly the best in other respects. 

Laying down turf.— For turf or sods the 
ground is prepared in the same way as for seed 
The turf should be of the finest quality pro¬ 
curable ; but it is only on certain formations 
and under certain conditions that it can be pro¬ 
cured free from weeds and coarse Grasses. The 
sods should be taken off in pieces about 18 inches 
square, of an even thickness of 2 inches or there¬ 
abouts, and brought to the place in rolls where 
it iB wanted, and laid down at the same time 
that it is taken up. The sods should be beaten 
slightly by the spade as they are laid, and 
afterwards the whole lawn should be rolled 
frequently by a heavy roller in moist, weather to 
render the surface level. In summer, should the 
sods shrink—as they will do in dry weather— 
the seams should be filled up with fine soil, to 
prevent evaporation and bind the sods together. 

Turfing by inoculation. —This consists 
in chopping the sods up into small pieces, 


4 


4 






Dsc. 8, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


461 


scattering them over the ground, and rolling 
them in. This plan is only resorted to when turf 
is too scarce to permit laying down the turves 
whole; but it answers very well, and if a few 
seeds are sown at the same time a very good 
lawn is formed in one season. 

Keeping tiie lawn in ordee.—To keep a 
Grass lawn permanently in good order it must be 
cut regularly by the machine or scythe, by the 
former if possible, and periodically manured by 
means of top-dressings. When the clippingsare 
left on the lawn manure need not be applied so 
often, as the short Grass acts as a manure much 
in the same manner as wood ashes; but the 
practice helps to propagate weeds—Daisies, 
Dandelions, Plantains, and the like, and is on 
the whole better not adopted except on very 
clean lawns. Under any circumstances the 
cutting of the Grass should begin as soon as the 
Grass begins to grow in spring, and be continued 
till it ceases to grow in autumn. A smooth, 
dense, carpety turf can only be preserved by these 
means, as the cutting prevents the Grass going 
to seed, and causes the root and fibres to spread 
until in a short time the turf becomes a 
dense velvety mass such as is only found 
on a closely shaven lawn. At the same time 
this constant removal of the short Grass 
is certain, sooner or later, just according to 
the quality of the soil, to impoverish a lawn, and 
the deficiency must therefore be made up by 
periodical top-dressings of manure in the form of 
guano, scot, or wood ashes, or a mixture of all 
the three, than which there is nothing better, 
and one dressing in spring will be sufficient. To 
this end any garden refuse should be buried, and 
with it all the short Grass collected during the 
season, and as much earth as possible. The ashes 
can afterwards be sifted through a fine sieve, and 
have the soot and guano added to them when 
they are used, which may be at the rate of 3 cwts. 
or 4 cwts. to the acre. The fine siftings of coal 
ashes may also be applied with advantage alone, 
but more advantageously in conjunction with 
other manures. Two inches of coal ashes laid 
under the turf will prevent worms rising, 
and this plan may be adopted in the case of 
tennis courts and cricket grounds. In winter 
lawns should be frequently swept and rolled. 

Weeds.— The most troublesome of those in 
Grass are Dandelions, Plantains, and Daisies, 
which when once established are difficult to 
eradicate. They may be kept out of a well 
made lawn with little trouble by removing them 
as they appear; but where they exist in quanti¬ 
ties, Daisies and Plantains are not easily got rid 
of, except by much labour. Dandelions may be 
extirpated by cutting the crowns of the plants 
off and pouring a few drops of carbolic acid on 
the root, but the operation may have to be 
repeated several times. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

10641 —Culture of Coleuses.— Coleuses 
are tender, and require a temperature of from 
50° to 56° through the winter. They should not 
be freely watered, gradually diminishing the 
supply of moisture as the days get shorter, giving 
only just enough to sustain life through the 
dullest portion of the year. If young plants are 
required for bedding, they should be propagated 
as early in spring as possible, and the plants 
which are to furnish cuttings should be stimu¬ 
lated into growth from February on in a tem¬ 
perature of from 60° to 65°. As soon as youDg 
shoots with two pairs of leaves can be had, take 
them off and insert in well-drained pots filled 
with light, sandy soil, surfaced and filled to the 
rims with silver sand. In a temperature of 
about 65° they will soon make roots, and as 
soon as they begin to grow should be put singly 
into small pots. Keep them in a nice growing 
temperature through the early spring until 
about the latter end of April, when they should 
go into cooler quarters, say a frame or green¬ 
house, where they are assured against cold 
draughts, but get air freely admitted to them in 
fine weather. If required for the open air, 
frames are the only right place for them, as by 
pulling the saBhes off on fine days they become 
thoroughly hardened by the middle of June, 
before which time it is not safe to plant them 
out. If required for indoor deeoration, shift 
them on as the pots get fairly filled with roots, 
using loam, leaf-soil, and well decayed manure. 

Co qTc 


From June onwards they will thrive well treated 
as “greenhouse” plants. I have omitted to 
mention that in the earlier stages of growth the 
points of the shoots should be pinched out now 
and then to induce a bushy formation. When 
autumn propagation is resorted to, the cuttings 
should be taken not later than the first week in 
August, inserting about eight round the edge of 
a 4J-inch pot.—J. C. B. 

10569.— Plants in gas-lighted rooms. 
—Growing plants in gas-lighted rooms generally 
results in, if not total failure, at least disappoint¬ 
ment. This is caused by the presence of a most 
poisonous gas, given off, more or less, on ignition 
of all coal gas. This poisonous gas is sulphu¬ 
retted hydrogen, formed by the sulphur in the 
coal combining with the hydrogen in the gas, 
which can be tested by a solution of sugar of 
lead in water plaoed in the rooms. In addition 
to this gas there are several more present in gas- 
lighted rooms, carbonic acid, sulphurous acid,&c., 
all of which are most hurtful to life. A partial 
remedy for these impurities is a ventilator fixed 
in the chimney near the ceiling. This simple 
ventilator is neither more nor less than a self¬ 
acting valve, which opens and shuts a3 the pres¬ 
sure of hot air increases or diminishes. Washing 
the foliage, as recommended in G ardening, is, 
doubtless, of great service, as the impurities 
which I have mentioned settle and form a film 
over the leaves which stops up the tissues. I do 
not mean to say that carbonic acid is hurtful to 
vegetation, as a certain amount is necessary to 
the formation of the carbonaceous secretions of 
plants, but I mean to say that to the human in¬ 
mates of the house an overdose is most injurious. 
Naturally, plants of a firm and shiny foliage 
(such as two or three of the Palms) are most 
suitable for dwelling rooms, as they are the most 
easily cleansed.—J. W. 

10642.— Christmas Roses in pots.— 
If the plants which have been recently potted 
are set with buds they will flower in due time, 
probably about Christmas, if the season should 
not be very severe and they are kept in a frost¬ 
proof greenhouse. The more liberal the culture 
in summer the greater amount of bloom will 
they give in winter. When done blooming they 
may either be planted out in rich soil to be re¬ 
potted again in autumn or be kept in pots. If 
the pots are full of roots they may be shifted 
just as the leaves begin to push from the crown, 
usiDg good loam with a liberal addition of 
rotted dung, and pressing the soil in very firmly 
round the roots. Stand them in a sunny 
sheltered place, and keep them well watered 
in hot weather, as Christmas Roses love 
plenty of moisture at the roots when growing. 
They may, however, be kept in the same pots for 
several years, but then it is best to plunge the 
pots to their rims in the open ground, and they 
should be well watered with liquid manure, or 
be top-dressed about twice with some concen¬ 
trated stimulant. It is the food and moisture 
which gives the strength necessary to the for¬ 
mation of strong flower buds.—J. C. B. 

10680.— Kainlt. —This is a compound found 
at Strassfurt, in Prussia, and is valuable as a 
manure because of the potassium sulphate it 
contains ; if mixed with farmyard manure, the 
potassium sulphate becomes changed, and potas¬ 
sium nitrate (or saltpetre) is formed, which is of 
more value than the former on account of the 
nitrogen it contains. It may be obtained from 
LJhlmann and Co., Leipzig, Hamburgh; agent in 
England, Robert Fairhurst, 7, Library Street, 
Blackburn. The composition of a good sample 
of kainit, analysed by Dr. Yoelcker, gave the 
following resultMoisture (loss at 212° Fah.), 
3 36; water of combination, 10 88: potassium 
sulphate, 24 43; calcium sulphate, 2 72; mag¬ 
nesium sulphate, 13 22; magnesium chloride, 
14 33 ; sodium chloride, 30-35 ; insoluble silicious 
matter, 0 71. — H. R. Barraclough, Butter - 
thaw, 

10652.— Plantains on Lawns. — I am 

trying a bold remedy likely to be successful. 
Tools of divers kinds and even vitriol failing, I 
have inserted deeply a steel digging fork, and 
raised up the surface without breaking it more 
than can be helped. See that the nest of Plan¬ 
tains rises up. On withdrawing the fork the 
spit looks like a small ant-hill. The Plantains 
can now be pretty easily removed. I use an old 
carving fork, but one with three teeth would 
be better. When the little hill is cleared of the 
weed, it can be pressed down again with the foot 


or a beater. I expect this must be repeated 
next year, as there are many minute young 
plants.—W. G. 

10664.— Lime and Camellias. — “ J. 

Valliance ” does not state to what quantity of 
soil he used two quarts of lime, or if the lime 
was in a caustic state. It could not be used 
sufficiently strong to kill the worms without 
injuring the plants hence, is only used on 
“ sour soils,” and as we presume he did not use 
sour soil to repot his Camellias, it would be of 
no use as a fertilizer. I do not think his plants 
will suffer from the quantity used. He might 
remove many of the worms by shaking the pot, 
which generally brings the worms to the surface 
when they could be picked off.— Rock Ferry* 

10666.— Planting out Camellias.— 

“ Ignoramus ” should plant out his Camellias as 
early as possible before they commence to grow, 
say middle of January. If the balls of the 
plants are matted with roots, I would not advise 
him to disturb them further than gently removing 
the crocks. If poorly rooted, remove all super¬ 
fluous soil by means of a pointed stick. Be very 
careful as to watering till the plants get fairly 
into growth. When you do water, give them a 
good soaking, and not an intermittent dribble 
on the surface.— Rock Ferry. 

10678.— Oierodendron Balfouri.— This 
plant requires stove or hothouse treatment. Or¬ 
dinarily it would flower in June, and if you want 
it to flower so late as August it must be kept in 
a rather cool house in winter; a warm green¬ 
house temperature would suit it. The plant 
ought to be pruned and be placed in a cool stove 
in March. During its resting period it must be 
kept dry at the roots.—J. D. E. 

10624.—Cleaning walks.—For about forty years a 
good kettle of hot water has been my friend. To begin, 
wo start at the lowest point, so “ all hot " has the start. 
As it runs down the heat Is over. I have had a twenty- 
gallon boiler on wheels, and moved it from place to 
place, over paved yards and flagged ways. A fine day is 
the best, when the ground Is dry, and a hot summer’s 
day is the best of all. It kills all seeds, and saves much 
trouble.—ANON. 

10647.—Monkey Puzzle.—The tree la certainly on 
soli that does not suit It. Prepare a new place for it, 
digging a hole considerably larger than the roots of the 
tree, then taking it up carefully, remove It to Its new 
place, filling the hole with road sidings or old turf that 
has been laid together some time previous. The tree 
will start into growth again, but not regain its lost 
branches.—?. J. 

10667.— Chrysanthemums. — I should say your 
Chrysanthemums were shifted Into their flowering pota 
too early. My plan is to strike them in February, giving 
them their final shift the last week in June, and plunging 
the pots up to their rims in tan or coal ashes, bringing 
them under cover the first week in October, after they 
have done flowering cutting them down and stowing them 
in a cold frame.—J. Dobson. 

-The time of taking off the cuttings does not make 

any material difference in the time of flowering. Cut¬ 
tings taken off in March will flower as early as those 
taken off now. It is best to take the cuttings from the 
suckers, and not from the Bhoots that are attached to 
the stems above ground.—J. D. E. 

10666.-Planting: out Camellias.—The present is 
as good a time as any to do tnis, but it will be best not 
to disturb the roots, and we would make up a border 
for them of good loam and turfy peat in equal propor¬ 
tions, and if this cannot be done, at least a few spadefuls 
of gome such material ought to be placed round the 
roots.—J. D. E. 

10721.—Garden refuse as manure.—Collect the 
woody portions in a heap and burn them, then spread 
the ashes over the land, which is greatly nourished by it. 
The soft succulent portions, as weedi and so on, collect In 
a heap, and allow them to rot away, sprinkling the 
layers now and then with soot and lime; dig this into 
the ground in spring.—B rixton Amatkcr. 

10082.—Plants for gas-llghted rooms.— If “S." 
has not many jets in her room, she may grow almost any 
plant that can be kept in a window, such as British 
Ferns, intermediate exotica, viz., Adiantums, Xephro- 
lepis, Pceris, Selagineilas, Lomarias, <fcc. Flowering 
plants : Fuchsias, Geraniums, Tea Roses, Begonias, and 
a host of others.— Rock FERitr. 

10681.—Treatment of Plantain Lillee (Funkiaa). 
—There is no need to grow these in pots, as they are quite 
hardy, and succeed best planted out in the open borders, 
in good rich deep soil. If it is desired to keep them in 
pots it is be3t to plunge them In some light material in a 
cold frame.—J. D. K. 

10645.—Fuchsia flowers dropping.— This may 
be caused by excessive watering, bad drainage, or that 
destructive pest the saw-fly, which often clears the 
whole of the bloom ou a plant. A sudden change of 
temperature would also cause it, such as removal from 
a greenhouse into a dwelling room.—J ames Lyb. 

10690.—Hyacinths.—If grown in water, the Hya¬ 
cinths should remain In the dark till the roots are an 
inch long. If grown in pots, they should remain for a 
month after potting and plunging, or they might stay 
till the leaves and the flower-spike force themselves 
through tLe covering material —L. C. K. 

-These should be taken out of the plunging 

material when the poUi are fairly well filled with roots 
The general collection that have uot to bo forced shoul 
bo taken in early in January. J. D. E. 



462 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Dec. 8, 1883. 


10029.— Covering hot-water pipes.— Fill the 
entire flue with good cowduug ; it should be soft to run 
in ; then see it is full, and your pipes will retain all heat. 
C’ow dung over steam boilers well pushed down will 
save coals, and after years of use is not bad for land.— 
Cocoanut-flbre will find a home for ants, Ac.—ANON. 

106S9.—Coal dust for gardens- — If the garden 
soil is of a clayey nature, coal dust may be used with 
advantage by spreading on the surface and digging in.— 
J. Robertson. 

10712.— Sulphate of ammonia. —Use half an 
ounce to a gallon of water, and then only when the pots 
are full of roots and need some stimulant.—B rixton 
AMATEUR. 


K. G. M .—We cannot say the cause of the disease, as 
your treatment seems all right. Keep the air of the house 

drier and water very sparingly.- Bloxham .—The Apples 

would be better without the felt. In case of severe frost 
mat up the doors, windows, &c., of the loft to keep it 

out.- Raymond .—Try Messrs. Barr & Son, 12 King 

Street, Covent Garden. Plant in spring. 

J . M. P .—Kindly ask your questions separately, and 
write on one aide of the paper only. It is inconvenient to 
deal with three or four questions, mixed up on a scrap of 

paper.- r. a. R.— Mr. J. Pinches, 27, Oxenden Street, 

London, W. 


Names of fruits.— U.—l, Calville St Saveur; 2, 

Golden Noble; 3. Queen Caroline; 4, Goff Apple.- 

G C. Sand.— 1, Dutch Mignonne.- T. P .—Wareham 

Russet.- Bloxham.— St. Albans Apple.- Canon hole. 

—New or Winter Ilawthornden.- G. Nioen.—Tear is 

Beurrd Clairgeau; Apple not known.- J. A.—1, 

Colmar Arcnberg (Pear); 2, Josephine de Malices (Pear); 

3, Porter’s Pippin Apple.- G. W. U. -1, Scarlet Pear- 

main; 2. King of the Pippins; 3, Forge; 4. Cornish 

Aromatic-IF. P. M.— 2, Winter Codlin ; Pear 

Beui-re Diel.- P. IT.-Dumelow's Needling.— C. G. G. 

—Not recognised.- Festuca. —1, Beauty of Kent; 2, 

not known.- H. M.— Cox’s Pomona.- H. IF. S.— 

Lemon Pippin.- E. S. P .—We cannot name from 

one poor specimen.- Jamatea.— King of the Pippins. 

- R. //.—1, Lamb Abbey Pearmain ; 4, Besspool. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents— All communica- 
Hons Jot insertion should be clearly and concisely written 
on one side qf the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER.. The name 
and address qf the sender is required , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title qf the 9 uer y 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece qf paper. Owing to the necessity qf 
GARDENING going to press a considerable time before, the 
day qf publication, if is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only 
can be named at one time , and this only when good 
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name 
varieties qf florists’ flowers , such as Fuchsias, Geraniums , 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
specialist who has the means qf comparison at hand. Any 
communication respecting plants or flowers sent to name 
should always accompany the parcel. 

10733.—Cowhouse and vinery combined.—I 
have occasion to build a house for my cow, and think I 
might utilise it for the double purpose of a cowhouse 
and vinery- My idea is to build the house a foot higher 
than if it were to bo used as a cowhouse only, and toglaro 
the roof like an ordinary greenhouse. In the winter I 
would put a false roof of boards a foot below the glass, 
aud so keep the cold arid excessive light from the cow, 
the Vine being in the space between the boards and 
glass. In the summer, from May 1 to the middle of 
October, the cow would be altogether In the field, so the 
house could be treated as a vinery only. What effect 
would the heat arising from a large animal, such as a 
cow, in a small house, have upon the vine? Perhaps 
some reader would kindly say if my suggestion is new 
or of practical value. If a house that is idle all through 
the warm weather could, by a trilling additional outlay, 
ba made to produce a crop of Grapes, would it not be 
worth while to try it?—E conomist. 

10734.—slow combUBtion stoves.—My thanks to 
«« J. C. Leek ” for reply on above, from which I infer 
the smoke pipe is inside of house until roof is reached, 
and then carried out by bend. If so, this-combined with 
so short a flue (only 4 feet), thus ensuring a quick 
draught, and pipe being Inside, not liable to external 
chill—would probably account for its steady and con¬ 
tinuous burning. Is this so ? My flue was nearly 8 feet 
high with cap on first, then revolving cowl only 5 feet 
from wall of main building. The store would blaze away 
for an hour, then pipe outside turn stone cold, and 
although a good Are in stove would quickly follow suit, 
and chimney get full of moisture. I used ordinary coal 
and coke. My next attempt will be with anthracite 
coal. — J. T. F. 

10735.—Plants for spring blooming.—I shall be 
glad if someone will inform me as early as possible what 
inexpensive yet effective plants I can now fill my small 

S ienhouse (capable of being heated to any extent) and 
me with, so ns to have a decent show in the spring 
and following months. Shall I put stable litter, ashes, 
or Cocoanut-flbre refuse at the bottom of the frame, or 
what would be the best ? At what temperature ought I to 
keep my house, both night and day, to be of most service 
to me ? Finally, what inexpensive plants can I put in 
my garden now (bulbs excepted) ? Will Roses do in my 
district (Dalston)? And will guano or bones do my 
ordinary gurden soil any good?—I gnoramus. 

10736.—Plants for greenhouse —I covered one 
half of my yard with glass about twelve months ago, and 
made It Into a greenhouse; I have it heated with hot- 
water pipes. Tne house faces east, and enclosed in 
north, south, east and ^west; it only getB the sun up to 

Go gTe 


about twelve o'clock In summer. Will someone give me 
the names of a few plants that would flower best? What 
Geraniums I have did not flower very well, Fuchsias 
better, also Petunias and Liliums.—A. J. D. 

10737.—Destruction of insect pests.—I have a 
small greenhouse with annexed collection of plants, 
viz., Camellias, Pelargoniums, Azaleas, Cinerarias, Cal¬ 
ceolarias, Fuchsias, Roses, <fcc., which are infested with 
Insects. I was thinking of using a fumigator, but was 
told it might be injurious to some of the plants. Is that 
the case ; if so, what would be the best thing to use ?— 
R. 

10738.— Liliums auratum and lancifolium — 
For several years I have grown these Liliums in 6-inch 
pots with loamy soil out-of doors. Each year the foliage 
was healthy aud bloom buds formed, but they drooped 
at the top and gradually died off. Can anyone give me 
the reason of it, and advise me how to prevent it in 
future ?—Milledgk. 

10739.—Apricots going rotten.—I have three 
Apricot trees planted against a wall facing the south; 
the trees make plenty of wood, and the fruit Is very large, 
but just as it changes colour it goes rotten. Rivers’s 
Greengage, Victoria and Washingtoh Plums on tho 
same wall grow to perfection. What is my remedy?— 
Ware Pond. 

10740.—Law respecting greenhouses.—Will 
some one kindly inform me what I hid best do in the 
following case ? I have built a small conservatory iu front 
of my house, and the Metropolitan Board of Works have 
given me notice to take it down. It is quite clear of the 
house, is 3 feet from the path, and is not a fixture. I have 
a long lease of the house.—G. F. S. 

10741 —Nitrate of soda as manure—I have a few 
pounds nitrate of soda by me, which I am anxious to use 
as a liquid manure. Will some one kindly inform me of 
what strength it Bhould be made, x.e., the proportion of 
nitrate to that of water, how often it should be used ; 
and its value as a manure for pot plants ?—Nitrate of 
Soda. 

10742.—Seakale plants.—I sowed some Seakale 
seed last spring, and have now good strong plants, but 
they will of course not be ready to cut from till after 
next season. How should they be treated now and 
through the present winter 7 The leaves are now dying 
down.—B eginner. 

10743.—Chrysanthemums.—How are these grown 
with twenty or thirty separate dwarf steins starting 
direct from the soil, aud each bearing a bloom, as 
exhibited at shows (not on a single stem) ? Are old 
plants used, or several cuttings inserted in one pot ?— 
Perplexed. 

10744.—Mushroom beds.—I wish to know what to 
do with my Mushroom bed. I put the spawn in a spent 
Cucumber bed, and watered it well at the time. I put it 
iu ten weeks ago, and no sign of any Mushrooms yet ; the 
bed is on the stage in the greenhouse, aud I have a fire 
every day aud night.—W. P. 

10745.—Cats In gardens.—Iam much troubled with 
these animals scratching up seeds and breaking plants, 
Ac My neighbour has two, which I am unable to kee p 
out of my house, should the door or window be open. I 
havo complained, but no good has resulted. Can any 
reader tell me the law on the subject?—S ydenham. 

10746.—Charcoal as manure.—Having purchased 
a quantity of charcoal refuse from a tire at Shoreditch, 
please Inform me if ic will answer as manure for lawn, 
tiower bed, vegetables, fruit, and ferns. Should it be 
used sparingly or mixed with stable manure, also what 
are its properties.—H. C. 

10747.—Orange trees —Would someone kindly give 
some details how to manage Orange trees ? I have tw o 
or three about 6 inches, and others about 2 or 3 inches 
high. I should like to know what to do so as to get 
them to flower and fruit; some of them are in 4-inch 
pots.—R. 

10748.—Covering stems of trees.—I have a piece 
of ground (S.W.) with Silver Fir growing on it; the 
branches have been broken off to a good height. What 
would be the best, cheapest, aud easiest evergreens to 
plant to hide the bare poles ? Soil gravelly.—R. 

10749.—Eucharis and Cypripediums. — Will 
some reader tell me whether the Euch&rls will bloom in 
a cool greenhouse, the lowest temperature being about 
60^ ; also will Cypripedium villosum flower in the same 
temperature ?—Lyra. 

10750.—Spawning Mushroom beds.—Kindly say 
what is the proper heat at which to spawn a Mushroom 
bed, what the thermometer should register when sunk 
deep into it, and what when nearly standing upright on 
the top?—E nquirer. 

10751.—Hardy flowers for beds.—I am having 
some large flower beds made in my garden. In them 
I wish to plant hardy perennials for flowering in suc¬ 
cession, and also suitable for yielding supplies of cut 
flowers. I shall be glad of any information.—BAYMOND. 

10752 —Grapes for forcing.—Will some reader 
kiudly say If Black Hamburgh and Muscat of Alexandra 
Grapes will do In the same house ? I should like to start 
them early in February. I should very much like to 
grow them in one house if possible.—Y oung Gardener. 

10753.—Chrysanthemums.—I have a few choice 
Chrysanthemums. Will someone kindly inform me 
what to do with the young shoots that are springing up 
from the rootB, when is the best time to move them, 
and what sort of soil to put them In ?—J. S. 

10764.—Pampas Grass from seed.—Can Pampas 
Grass be easily raised from seed, and if so, what is the 
proper time to sow it and how should it be sown ? I havo 
put some in a seed-pan in a greenhouse where slight 
heat is maintained. Is this right ?—C. W. R. C. 

1G756.—Camellias in pots.—Referring to an article 
in Gardening, November 24, under the head of “ An 
Amateur’s Greenhouse,” may I ask “H. W." io let me 
know what kind of pots or tubs he used in growing his 
Camellias ?-J. W. T. 

10756.— Gladiolus versicolor.— Is this to he had 
now; If so, where ?—Lost to Sight. 


10757—Grass seed for lawns.— Will auy reader 
tell me what kind of Grass Beed is the best for a lawn 
and when is the beat time for sowing; also what Is a 
good thing to eradicate Daisies and Dandelions, and to 
make the lawn soft to the tread ? St. Johns. 

1075S.— Gardenias and Stephanotis. -I shall be 
glad if anyone will kindly give me full information how 
to grow the above. I have them in a house with a Tine 
—Amateur. 


T’O LOVERS OF THE NARCISSI.-Clim, 

-L the lovely white Hoop Petticoat, each 6<L ; intermedia*. 
2s. doz., tunuior. the silver Jonquil. 6d. each; poeticus orna- 
tus, Is. 6d. doz.; P. poetarum, very rare, each Is. 6<L; Leedsi 
albidus, each Is.; princopa, each fid.; Pseudo-Narcissus, 5s. 
100; incomparabilis, Is. doz.; Stella, each 6d.; bicolor, Is. 6<L 
doz.; juncaifolius, 2s. 6d. doz.; pnecox, 2s. doz.; and mauv 
others ; one each of 12 varieties, including types of each 
group, 2s. 6<L Ail the above in Btock and Bent free by first 
gurcel poet.— O. KILMI8TER, Seedsman, North Street, 


T O LOVERS OF THE LILIES.—Speciosum 

rubrum, 6d. each; a. album, Is.; longifloruui, 4d.; Mar- 
tagon, 6d.; Szovitzianum, Is. 5d. ; Buperbum, 9d.; auratum, 
9d.: excelsum, 9cL ; tigrinum, splendens, and plenum, 94.; 
chalcedonicum. Is. ; bulbiferum, bd.; croceum, 4d. • Harris! 
(true), la. 6d.; Batemannim, 2a.; Hnmboldti, 2s. 6a.; kamt- 
schatkense. 9<L: Thunbergianum, 4<L; davuricum, candidum, 
and tigrinum, 2s. 6d. doz.: one each of 12 varieties, including 
types of each group, 5e. All in stock now and sent free by 
fi rst parcel poet —0. KIL MISTER, North Street, Brighton. 

G EMS for lovers of the curious, beautiful, or 
rare; all in stock now, and sent by first parcel post, free. 
Hardy Orchids—Bee, 4d. each ; large white Helleborine, 64,; 
Spider. 4d.; late Spider, 4d. ; laxidora, 6d,; Lady’s Slipper 
(Oalceolua), 6d.: Tub pa Bylveetrw, rare British specie*, 
flowering roots, 2d.; Horned Tulip, 2d. ; green-flowered Tulip, 
2d.; Tulips with variegated foliage, iu mixture, Is. 6d. per 
doz. ; Crocus Imperati, Is. doz.; Hepatica. Bingle white, 6d. 
each ; Iris ausiana, 6d ; L reticulata, winter blooming, 64.; 
Anemone apennina, Is. 6d. doz.; A. nemorosa plena, 3d. 
each ; A. nemorosa ccerulea, fid.; A. japonic* rosea, 6d ; A. 
palmata, 4d. ; A- sylvestris, 3d.; A. ranunculoides, la. 6d. 
doz.; Crimean and Imperati Snowdrop. 3d. each ; Scilb 
bifolia, Is. fid. doz ; 8. autumnalia, 2s.; 8. ciliaris, each 6d.; 
8 . Corsica, each Is. fid.; Ixia viridiflora, lovely green flowers, 
Is. 6<L doz : Cyclamen hedereefolium, hardy species, 6<L each; 
Arum dracuncnlum, 4d.: A. crinitum, hardy carnivorous 

S lant, Gd.; Vallisneri*. 3d. each. Special offer to clear; 

cilia sibirica, per 100, 5s. 9d.; 50, 33. ; Geutiana acaulis, per 
100, lOs. 6d. ; single scarlet Van Thol Tulips, per 100, 6a. 6cL; 
Paper-white Narciss, per 100, 9s. 6<L; 50 5a. All in stock now. 
and sent free by first parcel post.—C. KILMISTER, North 
Street. Brighton. _ 

HYCLAMENS and HARDY CACTUS.-Fine 

growing plants of the famous Covent Garden varieties, 
Is. 6d. per dozen: extra strong, 2s. and 2s. fid. per dozen. 
Brilliant Improved (new), crimson-scarlet, 3s. per dozen. Ibe 
rare and beautiful hardy Cactus, flowers golden-yello w. Is. 3 d. 
each, two for 2 b. ; all post free for cash.—J. CORNHILL, 
Byfleet, Surrey. _ 


T ILIUM HARRISI (tho Bermuda Easter 

J-l Lily), one of the most valuable introductions of late 
years; a long trumpet-flowered white Lily, beautifully re- 
fiexed—bearing frequently from six to ten, aud has been 
photographed with over thirty flowers on one spike; forces in 
pots with great facility, and so full of vitality that several 
and continued growths spring from one bulb: bulbs, 2s. each. 
13s. per dozen. It is quite dutiuct from L. longifiorum ; 
delivered free.—HOOPER k CO- Covent Garden, London. 

A SCARCE GARDEN PEA, VANGUARD 
(Nelson).—An early wrinkled Pea, with a modenuely 
vigorous habit of growth, 3 feet to 34 feet high, producing is 
the greatest profusion well-filled pods containing extraordi¬ 
nary large Peas of a most delicious Marrow flavour—a quality 
entirely absent in early kinds. Price, 5e. per quart; cash with 
order ; poet free.—JOHN LEMAN, Chigvrcli. Essex. __ 

H BOOTHBY, Loath, Lincolnshire, offers 
• Carter's Prolific Raspberry Canes, 5s. 100, £2 1000; 
American Lawton Brambles, 3s. 6d doz.; Naples and Gape 
Black Currants, 2s. fid. ; Lee’s Prolific, 3s. 6d.; and Baby 
Castle (red), 1 b. 6 d dozen. Auriculas, 2s. 6d ; Polyanthus, 
Is. 6d.; white and lilac doublo Primroses, Is. fid. dor; 
lOe. 6d. per 100; Ruby, 6«. ; Cartor’a Cloth of Gold, 7s. 6d 
dozen; 50a. 100; Crimson Velvet, 18s. doz : Muffled Prim¬ 
roses and Hose-in-Hose Polyanthus, 2a. 6a. dozen; Rex 
Theodore, double Polyanthus, 6s dozen; Carter’s Dew double 
mazarine blue Violets, 9d each, 7s. 6d. dozen, £2 10s. 100. 


7a RA DOZEN.—Rosea on own roots, ia- 

/ b, UU.« eluding M&rechal Niel, Gloire de Dijon, and 
ten other sorts, carefully packed, carriage free, 7s. 6d. f six 
—O. SHILLING, Nurseries, Winchfield, Hants._ _ 


Nurseries, \ 


7q fifl COLLECTION Fruit Trees contains 
/ b« UU. two Apples, one Pear, one Plum, one Cherry, 
six Gooseberries, six Currants, twelve Raspberries, best sorts, 
carefully packed. Three times the quantity for 20i—L. 
SHILLING. Nurseries, Winchfi e ld, Hants. _ 

PARCELS POST FREE. — Six Christmas 
-L Roses, 2s. 6d.; twelve Gladiolus, Is. 3d.: three Virginia 
Creepers, Is. 3d ; twelve Primulas in bud. 2s. 6d.; aix Aca¬ 
cias, Is. 3d.; variegated Elder, two, Is. 3d.; Yucca glotiosa, 
handsome, Is. fid. each, carefully paoked.—C. SHILLIN'', 
Nurseries, Winchfield, Hante ._ _ 

PLANT PRIVET HEDGES, for shelter; UM 

JT to 2 feet, Is. 6d. per 100; 2 feet to 3 feet, extra fine, 2*. per 
100. —Me tsra. 8TAN8FIELD, Pon t efract. _ 

STOTT'S MONARCH RHUBARB.— We offer 

Q strong roots of this gigantic variety free by Parcel? P«t 
at 2s. fid. each. The stalks are about 3 feet in length and om 
4 inches in diameter at the base, weighing 5 lb. to 7 lb. mcd : 
flavour exquisite, and keeps long fit for use; an excetad 
variety for jam, and the finest of all for exhibition.—STUART 
t ME.IN, Kelso, Scotland. 


WM. SYDENHAM, Water Orton, near Bir- 

V * mingham. haa still a few pens of black-red game fowl 
to dispose of, bred from prize-takers and fit for show. 
Cockerel and three pullets. Including basket, 25s 

E DELWEISS.—Gnaphaliuni Leontopodinm 
(Bridal Everlasting Flower), curiouB white Btar sbspe. 
Dried blooms will keep for yearn; for church wreaths, homeor 
Christmas decoration. Price per 100, 3a; par 1000, 29a. 
Postage paid.—SAMUEL DAXON Croft Warrington. 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vo I,, v. 


DECEMBER 15, 1883. 


No. 24ft. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

A SMALL LONDON CONSERVATORY. 
Thu question of heated or nnheated small con¬ 
servatories or greenhouses in London, and the 
plants that thrive and flourish in them, being 
much discussed at present, it may be of ad¬ 
vantage to your readers to be told the experi¬ 
ence of a lady, who has, unaided, managed with 
success a small London conservatory for eight 
years. 

I must begin by saying that my greenhouse is 
built over leads, at some distance from the 
ground, and faces due south. Folding glass 
doors open on to the staircase. The greenhouse 
is 13 feet long and 8 feet wide. It has a span 
roof of ground glass. The way in which it is 
arranged is as follows:—A path is left down 
the centre, on each side of which are long 
deep boxes. Behind these, and about 2 feet 
above them, are other boxes, the space between 
and the sides of the boxes being covered with 
virgin cork. The boxes were filled to the depth 
of 2 inches with broken rubbish, charcoal, &c., 
and then good mould. Into these boxes I 
planted out all my plants, for I have no pots. 
Eight years ago I planted in them two Cytisuses 
or Genistas. One of them ‘now reaches to the 
top of the span roof, and is like a small tree. 
They flower every May. I have also a Myrtle 
which has been there the same length of time, 
and several Palms, namely, Coryphas, Phcenix, 
and Latania, also a Seaforthia. 

I have one plant in one of the lower boxes of 
the Cyrtomium Fern, which has been eight years 
there, and is a fine healthy plant, and no Fern 
is more valuable for London. The English 
Ferns which flourish best are the Lastrea 
dilatata, which comes up fresh and green each 
recurring spring; the graceful little fragilis 
and the evergreen Ferns Scolopendrium vulgare 
and aenleatum. The Lady Fern also thrives, 
as does the lobatum. Amongst greenhouse 
Ferns, the only ones I really succeed with, 
besides the one I have mentioned, and which I 
consider my chef d’oeuvre, are the Pteris serrulata 
and P. cretica. I have an Aralia Sieboldi 
in excellent health, and an Aspidistra lurida 
I have had for these eight seasons two plants of 
the variegated Aucubas, which, though they 
have not grown to any size, look charming each 
spring with their very yellow leaves amongst 
the dark green of the Ferns and Palms. I have 
many plants of scarlet Geraniums, most of 
which have been in their present positions for 
two winters. A small plant of Sparmannia 
africana took the place two years ago of a very 
large one that I brought from Yorkshire eight 
years back, and which for six years had delighted 
me all summer with its bright green foliage and 
pretty clusters of white blossoms. This, unfor¬ 
tunately, was killed by a Bevere frost in the 
winter of 1879-80. I must add that each autumn 
my boxes are filled with bulbs—Crocuses, Hya¬ 
cinths, Narcissi—all of which bloom during the 
spring months in great beauty, beginning about 
February. I have also managed in a sunken 
pot a good plant of Lilium auratum. The 
roof of my house is thiokly covered with 
creepers—Ivy, Virginian creeper, and two plants 
of white Passion Flowers, which it is no exaggera¬ 
tion to say were this season covered with hundreds 
of blossoms. I have also trained against the 
cork-work a plant or two of Ficus repens. My 
experience tells me that the commoner sorts of 
Scarlet Geraniums are the only ones that will 
flower well enough to make a show. Different 
varieties of pink and white I have tried with no 
success. I have never kept a Geranium over more 
than two winters, as the flowers dwindle n size, 
and strong young plants are better. I have 
never bought above half-a-dozen new Geranium 
plants each year, and for some years now my 
greenhouse has not cost me abovea few shillings 
per annum. In the winter I water the plants, 
if the weather be not frosty, each week, and wash 
with tepid water the leaves of all the Palms and 
Ferns also once every week. In summer I 
water each day, and syringe each day. My 
greenhouse is absolutely unheated. For the 
last two years the only, tlflng I have done 
during very sharp frfeta, ^ to 


folding doors into the house each night. 
Before that, during very frosty weather, I burnt 
during the night, one of the oil stoves, but I 
think my plants have done quite as well without 
it. If I have to buy a new Palm or Fern, I find 
it is the best plan to purchase it in the spring. 
Then it becomes acclimatised before the winter, 
and if it survives the first winter, I have then 
not much anxiety about it. Two Indiarubber 
trees, which are old friends of many years 
standing, live in the greenhouse during the 
summer, but during the winter I find the warmth 
of a south window in my sitting-room necessary 
for them. 

I hope I have said enough to prove that it is 
possible to have a few strong, healthy, vigorous 
plants growing on from year to year, even in 
London; and those who love plants will know 
what a boon this is ; also that they can have all 
this with little cost except the first ontlay. But 
they cannot have it without the constant care, 
attention, and watchfulness, that only the true 
lover of flowers dreams is necessary, if one wishes 
to keep plants alive and flourishing in London. 

G. L P. 

1XIAS AND OTHER BULBS. 

Ok the numerous bulbous and other plants 
which have reached us from the Cape, none, 
perhaps, possess greater interest, nor are better 
worth the attention of the amateur, than the 
bright-flowered Ixia, and its allies, Tritonia 
and Babiana. In attempting their culture, how¬ 
ever, it must be remembered that they belong 
to that large class of plants which are included 
in the term “ half-hardy,” the treatment of 
which forms a special branch of gardening, and 
one to which the attention of the writer has been 
directed with more than ordinary interest for a 
considerable number of years. Such plants 
appear to be equally impatient of any extreme 
of heat or of cold, and to this intermediate 
character is probably owing the disregard, if 
not the disfavour, into which, for a long time, 
these handsome flowers had fallen. For it is 
certain that when first introduced to this country 
a hundred years and more ago, many more 
species of Ixia were grown in good collections 
than are to be found at present. The floral 
magazines of the early part of this century 
devoted a large proportion of their coloured 
plates to these and others of their congeners; 
and in turning over the pages of such books, we 
fail to detect any evidence of such progress as 
has taken place in the course of years in the 
culture, for example, of the Chrysanthemum. 
The place of these interesting species of Ixias 
is now taken by the numerous and very beauti¬ 
ful seedling varieties which have of later years 
been raised, and the popular taste is beginning 
to revert into the old channel. It is true, that 
the half-hardy nature of these plants does con¬ 
stitute to some extent a difficulty in their 
culture, for they cannot be grown everywhere, 
and in all seasons in the open border without 
considerable care in the way of shelter; on the 
other hand, if they are attempted in the tem¬ 
perature of an ordinary warm greenhouse, the 
chances are that they will be excited into such 
rapid and weak growth, that their blooming 
powers are effectually destroyed. Nevertheless, 
the difficulty is one which their great beauty 
renders it worth while to overcome. 

The Best Method of Growing 
Ixias, Sparaxis, and singular Cape bulbs, is, perhaps, 
that in which the roots are planted during the 
late autumn in a raised, well-drained bed of pre¬ 
pared soil, protected by a rough frame with 
lights which can be easily removed according to 
the state of the weather. In such a frame I saw 
a number of fine varieties doing thoroughly 
well in the garden of a friend daring the past 
summer; and if the bed can be placed in a south 
aspect against a wall, or the end of a green¬ 
house, every requisite condition for complete 
success will be attained. When a light is not at 
hand for the purpose, it is better to defer out- 
of-door planting until January, when a covering 
of Fir boughs, or of dry Fern, laid lightly over 
the bed, will be sufficient to protect the foliage 
from injury by Bpring frosts. But our principal 


concern meantime is with the cnlture of Ixias 
in pots for window decoration, and that they can 
be grown successfully in this way does not rest 
upon the testimony of one experience alone. 
Even years ago, while cheap greenhouses and 
plant frames were yet in the far distance, family 
traditions, still fondly remembered, tell of rare 
Cape bulbs and “Lily-pink” (Aphyllanthes 
monspeiiensis) and many another plant, not 
common even now, tenderly cherished and 
blooming in full beauty in the old-fashioned 
parlour windows of a long-past generation. The 
first consideration in growing Ixias is to obtain 
the best varieties, for some are vastly inferior to 
others both in size and colouring. It is better, 
therefore, to procure good named sorts, for in 
getting a mixed collection by the dozen, yellow 
sometimes predominate, and though these are 
indispensable, it is desirable to have other colours 
as well. Whatever else amongst the named 
varieties may be chosen, there are two which 
should never be omitted—Lady Slade, a fine rose 
pink, and viridiflora, the bright silvery green of 
which, enhanced by its dark purple eye, gives it 
a foremost place in the ranks of remarkable 
flower colouring. The nut-like bulbs of Ixia, 
Tritonia, Gladiolus, &o. (more properly called 
corms to distinguish them from the true tunicated 
bulbs of Hyacinths or Snowdrops), are said to 
be eagerly eaten by the monkeys which infest 
Table Mountain,where these plants abound. They 
are called by the Dutch indiscriminately “ babi- 
aner," in reference to the partiality shown forthem 
by the baboons: hence the specific name, babiana, 
applied to one division of the tribe. Theso 
corms are in general very small—out of all pro¬ 
portion to the large brilliant spikes of flowers 
they produce—and are particularly susceptible 
of injury from stagnant moisture, as might be 
guessed from their association as to locality 
with South African Fig-Marigolds and Crassulas. 
The fibrous roots are also delicate and fine. On 
this account, people are apt to fall into the 
mistake of potting them in peat. The most 
suitable soil is a rich, light compost, consisting 
of good turfy loam and well decayed leaf-mould 
in equal parts, with a considerable proportion of 
road grit thoroughly incorporated together. Un¬ 
fortunately this kind of soil is generally full of 
small worms and other insect pests, from 
which it should be freed by the action of heat. 
In a homely way this is not unfrequently 
managed ou a small scale by baking the soil in 
an old tin dish placed in a moderate oven the 
day before it is wanted. Care Bhonld be taken 
not to ebar the soil, but merely to subject it to 
sufficient heat to destroy the germs of all kinds 
of weeds and worms. This trouble is saved, 
however, if soil be obtained from a nurseryman. 
Should the roasting process be found needful, 
the proper degree of moisture must be returned 
to the seil by moderate watering two or three 
hours before it is used. 

Perfect Drainage 

and abundance of air are the two points of prin¬ 
cipal importance in the cultivation of Ixias. A 
piece of slate or perforated zinc, to cover the 
drainage hole, finely broken charcoal or sherds to 
the depth of at least an inch and a-half, and then, 
if at hand, a layer of Sphagnum Moss will 
satisfactorily complete the crooking of the pots. 
Probably more failures to bloom Ixias well have 
resulted from imperfect drainage than from any 
other cause. Perforated zinc has a two-fold 
use. It prevents (1) the ingress of worms 
when the pots are temporarily set out-of-doors, 
and (2) the egress of the roots, which are very 
apt, otherwise, to make their way out, thus 
saving much injury to the delicate fibres. 

The pots should next be filled with the pre¬ 
pared soil to within a couple of inches of the top, 
when the corms may be planted with a good 
sprinkling of sand above and below them, which 
helps to keep them sound. Six or eight corms 
to a 6-inch, or about a dozen to a 6-inch pot 
answer well. An inch of soil above the roots 
will finish the process of potting. Wherever it 
is possible, Ixias should be placed out-of-doors to 
make the first part of their growth. A common 
box, taking up little room in some sunny comer, 
in which the pots can be surrounded with moist 
' sand, coal ashes, or cocoa fibre, will provide all 






484 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Dec. 15, 1883. 


that ia needed. In this way the soil will be kept 
moist enough, without watering, until the Grass- 
like leaves appear. A box also possesses the ad¬ 
vantage, which a more elaborate frame does not, 
of being easily removed under shelter, and of 
being thus brought more easily within reach 
of the cultivator. For though Ixias cannot do 
without free circulation of air, protection during 
heavy rains and hard frosts must be afforded to 
them, but not for a day longer than is absolutely 
needful. About February the plants may be 
forwarded by being placed in a light window, 
and then the real difficulties of culture are apt 
to begin. The dry, hot air, especially of a sitting- 
room, parches the roots, and sends the leaves 
spindling upwards, and this must be counter¬ 
acted as much as possible. Where the drainage 
is good and moisture soaks quickly away, water¬ 
ing daily must not be neglected. In a sunny 
window, evaporation is likely to be excessive, 
and pots often get so hot that the soil is dried 
up more speedily than is often understood. At 
the same time, the plan of giving frequent 
driblets of water must never be indulged in. As 
far as my experience goes, no stimulant is better 
for bulbs of all sorts than soot water, which 
may be given three times a-week, instead of 
clear rain-water, with advantage, until the plants 
come into bloom. Ixias have a trick of dying 
off at the tips of the leaves, which may generally 
be traced to some fault of management, pro¬ 
bably want of due moisture and nourishment at 
the root. They also greatly dislike a confined, 
moist atmosphere, of which the signs appear in 
a fine crop of mould, which spreads from the 
tips of the grass downwards, and soon destroys 
the whole plant if left unchecked. The remedy 
is to admit as much air, without draught, as 
possible, remembering that prevention is better 
than cure, for cure in these cases is unattainable. 

The Best Time ron Potting 

for indoor decoration, is from September to No¬ 
vember. When planting is postponed till January, 
especially when cultivation is carried on entirely 
inside a window, as in some instances it must 
be, it often happens that the growth is forced 
too rapidly. There is, besides, more danger in 
hot spring days of the plants suffering from 
dryness at the root. Both these causes will 
prevent the spikes of bloom from coming to 
perfection, which is in gardeners’ phrase “ going 
blind.” Ixias and similar plants increase rapidly 
by the formation every year of several young 
corms to each root. In one species, Sparaxis 
bulbifera, small bulbs are produced in the axils 
of the leaves, which is interesting, as adding one 
more to the number of viviparous plants, which 
are represented in different ways by Ferns, 
Lilies, Begonias, Kingcups, and other members 
of very widely separated families. Occasionally 
1 have had only one bulb of a choice sort, which 
in the course of two seasons has multiplied to a 
large potful. It is consequently easy to get up 
a good stock, but the successful blooming of 
both old and young bulbs in due season depends 
entirely upon their treatment after flowering. 
This is the surest test of good gardening with 
regard to all kinds of plants. When their beauty 
is gone, immediate interest in their welfare is 
past, and it is often difficult to find a suitable 
position in which they can be placed to ripen their 
growth, yet they need as much care then as at any 
other time. This is especially true of all kinds 
of bulbs and tubers, for on the thorough ripening 
of both foliage and roots rests the success of the 
following season. Water must be given very 
sparingly until the leaves die down, and then 
withheld altogether. The pots may remain for a 
few weeks quite dry in a warm window, which 
will greatly assist maturation, after which they 
can be turned out, and the corms, carefully 
labelled to keep the varieties separate, may be 
stored in paper bags and placed in a dry drawer 
until planting time comes again. Ixias require 
sunshine to make them open their flowers, which 
is the one drawback to the perfect enjoyment of 
their extraordinary beauty, but they are very 
showy even in the folded state, and they fade all 
the more quickly when too much forced by light 
or heat. I notice'that in the current issue of 
Gabdening (December 1, No. 247), information 
is asked for by “ Q. Q.” (10G91) on the subject 
of Ixias and Sparaxis in windows. Late 
planting, imperfect drainage, or (want of free 
circulation of air, may have been the cause of 
failure. In trying ''hgain, it wonll be better to 
start fair with ^fejv^i^: re MlJ^as it is very I 



possible that under the circumstances described, 
the old ones may not be in flowering condition. 
When bulbs remain in the same pots a second 
year, the top soil should be removed and its place 
supplied by a good top-dressing. In the case 
alluded to, in which new growth has already 
begun, it may be better not to meddle with them 
further than this, unless there is any doubt as 
to proper drainage, which must at all costs be set 
to rights, disturbing the roots as little as possible 
in so doing; but, as a rule, Ixias are better 
repotted every autumn in fresh soil. Everywhere 
in pure country air, Ixias may be successfully 
grown, either indoors or out-of-doors, according to 
locality. It would be interesting to learn, on 
good authority, whether they will adapt them¬ 
selves, under any given conditions, to the atmo¬ 
sphere of a smoky city. K. L. D. 

MITRARIA COCCINEA. 

The Mitraria is a trailing sub-shrnbby plant of 
somewhat slender growth, clothed with bright 
green leaves, from the axils of which are borne 
bright scarlet um-shaped blossoms on pendulous 
stalks, as shown in the accompanying engraving. 
In situations near the sea on our southern and 


Flowering spray of Mitraria cocclnea. 

western coasts it is quite hardy, but in order to 
flower it successfully it needs the protection of 
a greenhouse. It thrives best in a partially 
shsided position and likes an abundance of at¬ 
mospheric moisture while in growth. It 
flourishes admirably in ordinary potting soil 
having a little more fibry peat than usual, and it 
may be struck readily from cuttings inserted at 
almost any season. It flowers about the latter 
end of May or beginning'of June, and is an 
excellent plant for a cool greenhouse. 


CULTURE OF THE CVCLAMEN. 

The many beautiful and sweetly-perfumed varie¬ 
ties of the Persian Cyclamen are exceedingly 
desirable for the decoration of the greenhouse 
or conservatory in winter, its time of flowering 
being generally from the early part of October 
until the beginning of March. This Cyclamen 
has also the merit of being of easy culture, and 
the various varieties are possibly never seen to 
greater advantage than when occupying a 
suitable structure, such as a low span-roofed 
pit, entirely devoted to them. As, however, it 
may seldom be convenient to do this, the front 
shelf of n moderately-waw ;-r<jsnhouse or con¬ 


servatory will be found to be by no means an 
unsuitable situation for them, and where in 
company with the Chinese Primrose, the Hya¬ 
cinth, and oLher low-growing winter-flowering 
plants, they can hardly fail to produce a lively 
and pleasing appearance during the dull months 
of winter. 

Propagation. —Cyclamens may be in¬ 
creased by offsets or by division, but the 
easiest and the best method is by means of 
seed, and in order to keep cp a stock, as well as 
having a chance of securing improved varieties, 
it is advisable to raise a quantity of seedlings 
annually; and, as a probable means of obtaining 
the latter desideratum, i e„ improved varieties, 
the seed should be saved from selected plants 
from the best strain, which daring their time of 
flowering should be isolated from tbe more ordi¬ 
nary stock. Where a variety of extraordinary merit 
is secured, and of which it will, of course, be de¬ 
sirable to obtain stock, it is advisable to place it 
in a favourable situation in some structure con¬ 
taining no other plants of the family, and care 
must be taken to fertilise the blooms with their 
own pollen. From such a plant the seed if pro¬ 
perly saved will generally be found to ,produce 
plants tolerably true to the original 
Sowing seed. —The seed of these 
plants may be sown as soon as it is 
ripe, or, say, during the month of 
August, in a well-drained pot or pots 
some 6 inches in diameter, filled with 
light and tolerably rich soil. On tbe 
Burface of this the seed should be 
sown, not too thickly, and it should 
bo pressed gently into the soil. Cover 
slightly with silver sand or light soil, 
water with a fine rose to settle it, and 
a pane of glass should be placed over 
the surface of the pot, while the sur¬ 
face of the soil should be some half 
an inch under the glass. Tbe potshould 
now be placed in a pit or frame. Little 
water will be required until the reed- 
lings appear, when the piece of glass 
should be tilted up, and finally alto¬ 
gether removed. When the plants 
have made two or more leaves they 
should be gently raised and pricked 
into seed-pans in soil similar to that 
in which the seed was sown. This is 
possibly better, and certainly gives 
less trouble than potting singly into 
smaU pots, as is sometimes done, as 
the young plants can be wintered in 
considerably less space. The pans 
may be placed upon the top shelf of 
a warm greenhouse or in any similar 
structure. 

Potting. — In march the plants 
should be potted singly into 3-inch 
pots, and should be retained in a 
close, warm atmosphere until they 
have become somewhat established. 
They should then be placed upon ashes 
in a cold pit, and kept at the same 
time pretty close to the glass, 
giving air whenever the stats of 
the weather will permit. In August 
or about the time when old plants 
are beginning to start into growth 
and require repotting, the young plants may also 
be shifted into their flowering pots, which ia 
their case need seldom exceed 5 inches in 
diameter, although old and large plants may 
require pots of greater dimensions, and the soil 
used may be similar to that used for Pelargo¬ 
niums and other soft-wooded greenhouse plants. 
After potting, the plants should be kept in a 
minimum temperature of GO 0 , and the young as 
well as the old plants will generally commence 
to bloom early in October, or in about fourteen 
months from the time of sowing. If kept in a 
temperature similar to that just named, they will 
generally continue to bloom until the following 
month of March. When flowering is over, they 
should be returned to a cold pit or frame, which 
will afford the necessary protection until the 
weather becomes sufficiently mild to allow them 
to be either planted out or placed in their pots 
in a sheltered and somewhat shaded situation in 
the open air, but they should not be allowed to 
become altogether dried off. The same plants 
may be grown for an indefinite number of years, 
although some, preferring young plants, discard 
them after the second or third season. Whether 
the plants after flowering are retained in their 
pots or planted out in the open borders, if the 

UR B ANA-CHAMPAIGN 









Dec. 15, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


465 


decaying flowers are allowed to remain upon 
them, it will be found that they will make an 
instinctive effort to sow, as it were, their own 
seed as it becomes ripe by a peculiar twisting of 
the flower-stalks towards the surface of the soil, 
and when this is observed it may be regarded as 
an indication of the seed being ripe, and then, 
if required, it should be gathered and sown. 

INSECTS.—Cyclamens do not generally suffer 
from insect pests, but sometimes they are at¬ 
tacked by aphides, and whenever this is found 
to be the case, fumigation should be resorted to. 
Their most formidable enemy,however, is asmall 
white grub or maggot, the larva of some small 
fly, which not unfrequently attacks the under¬ 
sides of the tubers, and if undisturbed will con- 
continue to feed upon them until little except 
the skin or upper surface is left. Strong lime 
water has been found to be a remedy; it either 
kills the maggots or compels them to leave the 
pots. Soot water is doubtless also distasteful to 
the maggots as well as to the fly which produces 
them ; but as soon as the time of (lowering has 
passed, all infected tubers, as well as the soil 
containing them, should be burned, in order to 

prevent the maggots from attacking other plants, 

which they are by no means unlikely to do. If 
the plants attacked are valuable, and it is desired 
to preserve them, then the best remedy is taking 
the tnbers from the soil and washing them care¬ 
fully, so as to remove everything like insect eggs 
or larva;. Pot again in fresh light soil, using 
pots no larger than are required to admit the 
tubers ; place them in a cold pit, which should 
for a time be kept somewhat close until new 
roots are formed, which, under such circum 
stances, will not be long in taking place. 

r. g. 


bear pinching in, and is most easily propagated 
from cuttings, of which I have taken many from 
off the top when the plant has grown too high. 
The flowers are of a lovely Apricot colour, of a 
bell shape, with litt le or no perfume,—B rowns- 

WOOD. 


Chrysanthemums In pots. — As the 

blooming season as regards Chrysanthemums will 
soon be over, and we shall soon have to commence 
operations for another year, I should like just to 
make a few remarks on their cultiration. I 
secure my cuttings ia March, pot them as soon 
as they are rooted into 6-inch pots, and as soon 
as possible I get them outside on a bed of coal 
ashes, where they can have plenty of light and 
air. As soon as they have filled their pots with 
roots, I give them their last shift into 8-inch ones, 
using a mixture of good turfy loam and well 
decayed horse - droppings. An old Mushroom 
bed is just what is wanted; then when I think 
they have filled their pots again with roots, I 
begin feeding them with liquid manure, guano 
water, or the drainage from the stable, both of 
which seem to suit them well. I find treating them 
in this manner to be much better than over¬ 
potting as large pots encourage them to make rank 
growth, which cannot ripen, and consequently it 
becomes infested with mildew .Stake the plants 
as early as possible, and I find that growing them 
as bashes is best, although the finest collection I 
ever saw were grown as standards. In a long 
corridor they bad a fine effect, but to grow stan¬ 
dards one must have plenty of room, and bushes 
will give plenty of bloom if properly managed. 
It is a good plan to leave them outside as long as 
possible, if in a well protected place, and mildew 
can be kept in check. As soon as frost sets in I 
bring my plants indoors, and give them ail the 
light and air I can, ventilating all day, and 
always watering early in the morning, so as to 
get the house quite dry by closing time ; then the 
house is free from evaporation, which encourages 
mildew. By the treatment just described we 
preserve ail the bottom foliage, which greatly 
adds to the beauty of the plants. I have two 
varieties just coming into flower, viz., Meg 
I Merrilies and Sarnia, both whites; by keeping 
I these two pinched in until the latter part of 
\ Angost, they will furnish a good basket of white 
1 flowers on Christmas-day.—IV. 

. Diplaoua glutinosua.—About a year 
I back I read a remark in Gardening about this 
1 plant, and accordingly procured a fair sized 
I specimen. I may recommend it as being cer- 
I tainly an acquisition to anyone who has a cool 
Igreenhouse, as it only requires keeping from 
■frost. In the summer it is best out-of-doors, 

I unless the house can be kept moderately cool, 
yrs heat gives it a tendency to get spindly. Mine 
las been in blossom nearly the whole year 
hrongh; once during the summer I counted 
iver ninety blossoms on it. It should be kept, 
getty moist, or the bottom leaves go brown 
spotted mine after blossoming so profusely, 
i.-esh buds soon after showed t 


1070(1. — Culture of Hyacinths.— To 

grow these to produce magnifioeut flowers, does 
not require a great deal of skill. Of course, itis 
too late to begin now, as the bulbs have been 
kept too long out of the ground. They should 
be potted not later than the end of October, 
using rich, sandy compost, say rotten cow 
manure one part, leaf-mould two parts, good 
loam two parts, and one part sharp river or sea 
sand. After the bulbs are potted, the pots should 
be plunged to the depth of about 3 inches over 
the rims in leaf-monld or Cocoa-nut fibre refuse. 
They will make roots plunged in this material 
out-of-doors, and the pots should not be taken 
into a glasshouse until plenty of roots have been 
formed. They should be placed near the glass 
in an ordinary greenhouse, and at each time of 
watering, weak manure water ought to be used. 
Another important factor to ensure success, is 
tile quality of the bulbs It is best to deal with 
a seedsman you can depend upon, and pay the 
best price. Hyacinths could be grown and pro¬ 
pagated out-of-doors in this country, as well as 
in Holland, if the same pains were taken to 
grow them well. They require a rich, deep, well- 
manured soil; and if it is heavy, plenty of river 
sand must be mixed with it. Some bulbs throw 
out a groat many offsets, but the Hutch growers 
do not trust to offsets alone. They cut the old 
bulbs through above the root stock, and a mass 
of small bulblets are formed at the cut parts; 
they form the best flowering bulbs in fonr years! 
Any amateur might try the experiment, but in 
the end it might be found cheaper to purchase 
them. I am growing some English-raised bulbs 
this year, sent to me by a grower, to compare 
them with the best of the imported roots from 
Holland.—J. D. E. 

10606.— Wintering large Geraniums. 

—All that they require during the winter is to 
be guarded against frost and placed where they 
get plenty of light,watering only when dry, and 
then only giving enough to fairly moisten the 
soil through. Clean off all decaying foliage as it 
appears, ventilate freely at the top of the house 
in fine weather, making a little fire for two or 
three hours in the early part of the day in cold 
damp weather. If the plants are too lanky you 
may take off the terminal shoots the last week 
in March and insert them in sandy soil. Keep 
the plants on the dry side for a time and they 
will soon break again.—J. C. B. 

- Keep the Geraniums rather dry at. the 

roots all winter, and out of the reach of frost and 
damp. About the end of January cut them 
down to within a few eyes of last year’s growth, 
giving very little water until they have started 
into growth, or you will make them bleed. After 
they have made about an inch of growth, shake 
the greater part of the old soil away and re-pot 
into fresh soil, using pots just large enough to 
hold the roots nicely. Alter these are filled 
with roots, shift into the pots you intend to 
flower them in. Keep near the glass when 
growing.—J. liOBEUTSON. 

10723.— Bulbs for forcing.— Besides Hya¬ 
cinths, Tulips and Narcissi for forcing, the 
following list of bulbs may be grown:—Crocuses, 
Ixias, Jonquils, Gladiolus the Bride, Snowdrops, 
Rparaxis, Scillas, Sohizostylis ooccinea, 
Triteleias, Tuberoses and winter Aconites. Many 
other bulbs might be enumerated that would 
bear gentle forcing, but the above-named, if well 
grown, will make a fine display. They may be 
forced in a temperature ranging from 45° to 55° 

—J. Robertson. 

Winter-flowering Tropeeolum—T. Bed- 
font Rival is a capital dwarf Nasturtium for 
winter decoration—in fact, one of the best. Its 
neat dwarf habit of growth and free flowering 
character make it a most desirable greenhouse 
plant at this season. The plants should be grown 
on through the summer in pots purposely for 
winter flowering. The colour, one of the brightest 
of orange-scarlets, is very telling among the 
quieter hues characteristic of most winter plants 
■G. H. 


Vol. I. " Gardening " ts out of print, and we are 
therefore unable to further ■apply either separate copies 
or bound volumes. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden friary—December 17 
to December 22. 

Sowing Cucumber seeds to produoe plants for March • 
turning walks where gravel has become discoloured.’ 
Putting Schizanthus in pots ; getting up Rhubarb for 
forcing; pruning and nailing Cotoueaster; plunging Fig 
trees in pots in a hotbed of leaves ; wheeling manure on 
to vacant land ; making a new Mushroom hid - pruning 
trees, and whitewashing walls and cleaning woodwork 
tmd glass of Peach-house. Potting Gladiolus in one- 
third loam, scarcely one-third manure, and rather over 
one-third peat and sand ■ also more Mint; putting into 
force some Lily of the Valley, a few Ghent Azaleas and 
Deutzlas, a batch of Jules Margottin Rosts, a few Diely- 
tras, some Cinerarias, and also Azalea vittata punctata 
—temperature 66° to 60° at night, and from 60° to 65® 
during the day; putting cases over Watercresses to pro¬ 
tect them from frost. Planting some standard kitchen 
Apples; putting iu Vine eyes; pruning Apple trees in 
orchard; clipping tops off shrubs in pleasure grounds 
where too high ■ cleaning Violets in frames; also herb 
beds. Sowing J^emophlla in pots; shifting young tree 
Mignonette into C-inch pots; dividing Irises and planting 
them again in border; planting and staking Cherry and 
Hum trees; re-fllling baskets for conservatory with 
Nemophiln and Silene; putting Alyssum and old Ver¬ 
benas into Vinery for cuttings; placing all Mignoneito 
from pits on late Vinery shelves, bo ss to get it in the 
sun ; examining pot Carnations for fly: vaihiiic Gar¬ 
denias. ’ b 

Glasshouses. 

Abutilons. —Where white flowers are wauled 
for bouquets, and there is sufficient stock of the 
pretty A. Boule dc Neige, it will be found 
invaluable, as it goes on blooming so long as 
there is enough warmth to keep up gruwlli. 
Young dwarf stocky plants that can be stood on 
a shelf near the roof are in some cases belter 
than older examples! The red varieties, and ah o 
the yellow, at the present time so much iu 
favour, must not be lost sight of. There are 
now a good many with a dwarf distinct habit 
and remarkable for their freedom of flowering. 

A cool stove or intermediate temperature suits 
them best, as under such conditions the plants 
get less drawn and the flowers are stonier. 
Whenever any of the family are getting too I: I; 
they may be headed down at this or any other 
season if there is enough warmth to enable their 
breaking freely, otherwise they, in common with 
all other plants, are better left until further on 
when there is more heat. 

Arum Lilies (Callas).—Where flowers of 
these are wanted early in the year, the possi¬ 
bility of getting them depends on how the plants 
have been treated. Planting out in single 
crowns in the summer time, as has been advised 
and lifting and potting in the autumn, has many 
advantages, not the least of which is that both 
leaves and leaf stalks will be much dwarfer and 
have a nicer appearance when in bloom, but 
stock so treated should be kept for suceessional 
flowering, as it does not usually force so readily 
as larger plants that have been grown through 
the summer iu pots; these latter, if well exposed 
to the sun in the open air through the latter 
part of summer, will generally throw up blooms 
immediately they are placed in warmth, supply¬ 
ing them sufficiently with water and keeping 
them well up to the light. Before putting them 
in heat see that they are peifectly free from 
aphides, which are more partial to them than 
many things, and where present get down into 
the youDg flowers directly they begin to unfold, 
where no ordinary quantity of Tobacco smoke 
appears to reach them. 

Mignonette.— Strong plants of this raised 
from seed sown early in the year will, if they 
have been liberally treated, now be in a forward 
state; a temperature of from 43° to 50° in the 
night will help to bring the flowers on, but they 
should not be subjected to so much warmth as 
this unless in the case of the earliest, the bloom 
of which is in an advanced stage, coupled with 
the plants being kept in a good light house or pit 
and close to the roof. Plants raised from later 
sowings, especially those intended to bloom the 
last in spring, should be kept quite cool, giving 
sufficient air every day to dispel damp. For 
such stock as this a low pit with a stage that 
will keep the plants near the roof, and enough 
pipe heat to exclude frost is the best, as under 
these conditions the plants keep on moving 
slowly, and do not lose their bottom leaves in 
the way that usually occurs in a stagnant atmo¬ 
sphere with insufficient light. In the case of 
plants that are forward and have filled their pots 
with roots, a little manure water should be given 
once a fortnight. 

Christmas Roses.—T he white flowers of 
here plants, when nicely managed, are little in- 



466 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Dec. 15, 1883. 


ferior to those of the Eucharis ; they force in a 
very moderate heat; if too much is used the 
blooms are liable to flag when placed in a oooler 
temperature, but a little heat is beneficial in 
drawing the stems out sufficiently to make the 
flowers more useful in any arrangements in 
which they may be required. If some strong 
flowering roots are put in a cold frame, kept 
moderately close, and just protected from frost, 
they will come in later and give a succession. 
Strong clumps in the open ground should be 
covered with hand-glasses, by which means the 
flowers will be kept clean. If this precaution is 
not taken they get spoiled with the dirt splashed 
on them in wet weather. 

Cinerarias. —With the exception of Violets, 
there are few blue flowers available in the winter 
besides these ; at no time are they more useful 
than about the new year. Any warmth beyond 
that of a few degrees above the ordinary green¬ 
house temperature spoils the plants, as directly 
they are submitted to much warmth the flowers 
become so drawn as to make them worthless; 
consequently, unless they are all but ready to 
open their blooms, it is better to keep them quite 
cool. Where successional sowings were made 
everything should be done to retard the latest 
portion by keeping them as cool as can be with¬ 
out their getting frozen. See that the whole 
stock is kept scrupulously clear from aphides; 
few plants are sooner spoiled than Cinerarias if 
permitted to become at all infested with these 
parasites. As has been frequently urged, dipping 
in Tobacoo water is preferable to fumigation 
unless the latter is done with very great care. 

Fruit. 

Straw KERRIES in pots. — Where a proper 
Strawberry house does not exist, and the forcing 
of this fruit is obliged to be carried on in early 
Peach houses and vineries, January 1 is a good 
time to get in the first batch of plants. These, 
of course, will be selected from the most for¬ 
ward plants in the smallest pots, as the crowns 
are sure to be ripe, and the pots being quite full of 
roots, their throwing up flower 6 capea will be 
reduced to a certainty. When the plants have 
been dipped and top-dressed, place them on 
shelves close to the glass, syringe regularly, and 
give them sufficient water to keep the roots con¬ 
stantly moist, as anything approaching drought, 
independently of its fostering spider, will 
produce a check which may prove fatal to the 
crop. It is a common practice to fill the shelves 
in these houses when they are closed for forcing, 
and although the temperature of the vinery may 
be somewhat high, that of the Peach house suits 
them admirably. To keep up the succession it 
is a good plan to fit up an ordinary Cucumber or 
Melon pit with shelves some 12 inches or 15 
inches from the glass for the reception of the 
remainder of the early batch, and to place some 
fermenting material beneath, but not touching 
them. In mild weather the humid heat will be 
found quite sufficient, but when very cold, gentle 
tire-heat may be needed to prevent the tem¬ 
perature from falling below 40° at night, 
and air must be given when it is likely to rise 
above 50° by day. Where the general stock is 
wintered in cold pits, throw the lights oif by 
night, and by day when the weather is fine and 
settled. Close and tilt them to protect from 
heavy rain or snow. If well plunged over the 
rims, sharp, dry frost will do them no harm. 

Hardy fruit. —The planting of all kinds of 
fruit trees must now remain in arrear until after 
the turn of the year, and as many newly-pur¬ 
chased trees will be laid in on a dry border, see 
that plenty of fine soil or leaf-mould is placed 
about them to prevent the frost from descending 
to the roots, and in the event of the weather 
becoming unusually severe, a little dry Hracken 
placed amongst the shoots will do good service 
in protecting them. Meantime press forward 
the pruning and nailing of established trees, 
and top-dress all that are likely to derive future 
benefit from that operation. The nature and 
strength of the material used for this purpose 
will, of course, be governed by the condition as 
well as the varieties of fruit trees under con¬ 
sideration. Old trees as a rule, particularly 
Apples and Pears, are greatly benefited by a 
good dressing of manure, while young ones will 
become more fruitful if treated to a dressing of 
fresh loam, burnt earth, or charred garden refuse. 
Peaches and Apricots, indeed all kinds of stone 
fruit, trees, requte ca^ajfOH i ^tj^t,*th»n which 


there is nothing better than old lime rubble 
or plaster broken pretty fine and spread over the 
surface of the border. Strawberries, Raspberries, 
and bush fruits enjoy liberal supplies of good 
rotten manure, and the earlier it is applied the 
better, as, independently of the protection which 
it affords to the surface roots, its manurial or 
stimulating qualities get washed down ready 
for the demand when spring growth sets in. 
Peaches, Nectarines, and Morello Cherries which 
have been unnailed and secured from injury by 
wind, may be well washed and dressed with 
Gishurst compound when the weather ie dry and 
mild, and the nailing of the Cherries may imme¬ 
diately follow the cleansing of the wails with 
soapsuds, brine, or lime-water; but Peaches must 
be left till last in order to retard the blossoms, 
and so preserve them from early spring frosts. 

Vegetables. 

Go over plots of Greens and remove all 
decaying leaves. Such vegetable refuse makes 
a valuable manure when it can be dug in whilst 
in a green state, but if this cannot be done it 
should be thrown together and intermixed with 
a little fresh lime, which will add to its value as 
a manure. Potatoes should be carefully ex¬ 
amined ; all the early seed tubers should be laid 
in single file to sprout, on floors or shelves, free 
from frost. Some of the first earlies may now 
be put in shallow boxes of leaf soil, and placed 
in frames to start them ; and as soon as fairly 
rooted into the mould, they should be finally 
planted in forcing pits or pots ; we find the pots 
a very convenient mode of growing the batch, as 
they can be moved from place to place as cir¬ 
cumstances demand. Myatt's Ashleaf Kidney 
and Fenn's early Market Round are both excel¬ 
lent varieties for pot culture. If not yet done, As¬ 
paragus plantations should have a thick covering 
of well-rotted manure, but no alleys should be 
scooped out to cover it; such a proceeding is not 
only useless but hurtful. New plantations of 
Horseradish and Rhubarb may now be made at 
any time, and established plots should be 
manured and dug over. Still keep Globe Arti¬ 
chokes well protected, though if time can be 
afforded, the protecting material should be re¬ 
moved when there is no likelihood of frost, and 
again applied on the first indications of it. Let 
all vacant plots of ground be manured, and dug, 
trenched, or ridged up as soon as possible, in 
order that they may have the fullest exposure to 
the ameliorating influences of the weather. A 
plan of cropping for the forthcoming season 
should at once be decided on, and in making it 
out see that the various plots have the crops 
varied as much as possible from those of last 
year. Taking the same crop twice consecutively 
from the same ground not only impoverishes it 
more than it otherwise would bo, but the pro¬ 
duce is less, the only exception being when the 
ground is deeply trenched. 

Cucumbers. —Where several compartments 
are devoted to winter-fruiting plants, now is a 
good time to give the earliest batch a thorough 
rest by cuffing off all the fruit and a few of the 
old leaves to make room for young growths, 
which will in their turn produce a good succession 
aboutjthe middle of January. If manure has been 
used as a mulching, it is more than probable 
worms will be present, and as these pests soon 
derange the best laid foundation, take vigorous 
action for their destruction by the removal of 
the manure and watering with tepid lime water. 
This application, if needful, may be repeated 
before the fresh top-dressing, consisting of light 
rich turf, charcoal, and old lime rubble, is 
applied to the surface of the hills or pots 
in which the roots are located. From this 
time Jforward discontinue stopping, remove 
all Imale blossoms, and use the syringe 
sparingly, but keep up a good supply of 
atmospheric moisture by damping all avail¬ 
able surfaces with diluted liquid, and by 
frequently turning and renovating the ferment¬ 
ing material, which should not be allowed to 
fall below 80°. * Let the night heat range from 
G5° to 70°, and that by day from 75° to 80°, and 
economise fire-heat by covering the glass during 
the hours of darkness. If this treatment does 
not keep spider in check, sponge the leaves 
with soapy water or clear sulphur water, and 
dust with dry sulphur on the first appearance 
of mildew. Where plants in full bearing are 
planted or plunged over heated chambers, liberal 
supplies of warm liquid and weak guano 
water may be given alternately, and. their 


general treatment as to heat and atmospheric 
moisture may be the same as that advised for 
resting plants. Late plants intended for fruit¬ 
ing in February may be kept a few degrees 
cooler at night, but the bottom heat should not 
be allowed to fall below 7G°. Keep the young 
growths free from male and female blossoms, 
and let the top-heat equal that of the roots for 
a Bhort time on fine days. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

Among the very large number of plants suit¬ 
able for growth under glass in towns, several of 
the varieties of Palms are especially desirable, as 
in many respects affording a better result, with 
a very moderate amount of care or trouble, than 
many others. In the firet place, their elegant 
foliage and habit of growth is always a valuable 
addition to any greenhouse or conservatory, 
however well filled with gay flowering plants. 
Again, I’alms are naturally of a very enduring 
character, being not easily injured, except by- 
long continued neglect or wrong treatment; and 
lastly, they are very little trouble, the constant 
re-potting, pruning, and other operations 
necessary to many kinds of plants being never 
required. They are not liable to the attacks of 
insects, and if at all affected in this way are very 
easily cleansed. There are no dead leaves con¬ 
stantly needing to be removed, and in short, they 
require less attention than almost any other 
plant, a shift into a size larger pot once a year 
at most (often once in two or three years will 
suffice), and ordinary care in maintaining the 
proper degree of moisture and temperature, with 
an occasional sponging of the foliage, is all that 
is required. 

The most suitable kinds of Palms foran ordinary 
cool greenhouse or conservatory are, of course, 
those that possess a robust constitution, and are 
amenable to cool treatment. A few of the best 
for this purpose are—Latania borbonica, Cha¬ 
in terops excelsa and C. humilis, Phcenix recli- 
nata and P. dactylifera, Seaforthia elegans, 
Itbapis flabelliformis, Corypha australis, Curcu- 
ligo recurvata, Areca r>aueri, and several of the 
Keutias and Zamias. Of these the Latania is 
one of the most elegant and popular varieties, 
and a well-grown plant with two or three good 
“ fans ” is really a beautiful object. Unfortu¬ 
nately it is not nearly so effective in a small 
state, even one really well-developed «• fan " 
being seldom produced in anything less than a 
G-inch pot. Although a cool Palm, this requires 
a considerable degree of heat iuayoung state to 
make a really good plant, as if grown cool while - 
small the growth is so very stunted; this ob- 1 
tains in the case of most Palms, so that on the 
whole the best way, unless you have a warm 
house available, is to purchase well-grown and ; 
well-hardened plants of a fair size at first, in i 
certainly nothing smaller than 4J-inch orC-mch ! 
pots. Ghamasrops excelsa and humilis are two | 
of about the hardiest and most vigorous kinds, i 
and will do well with less heat than any others. 
Phcenix reclinata is a good useful sort, and a 
general favourite; but one of the most easily- 1 
managed is P. dactylifera, the Date Palm, which t 
anyone with a hotbed or warm house or pit i 
can raise from a common Date stone, and ‘i 
grow on in an ordinary greenhouse into a fine , 
plant. This is, however, not so elegant in growth li 
as some others. Palms, it must be premised, E 
are not by any means rapid growers, and is a j 
greenhouse temperature not more than one or a 
two fresh leaves at most can be added to the i| 
growth in the course of a twelvemonth : and very q 
many years must elapse before anything of the a 
nature of a trunk or stem can be expected to J, 
appear. This is, however, in one respect a great . 
advantage, as otherwise a moderate-sized house , 
would have constantly to be relieved of its over- ^ 
grown occupants. 

In a small state Palms are usually grown in ^ 
sandy peat, but when getting strong and well 4 
established in 41-inch pots, a mixture of fibrons ^ 
loamandpeat, with a little sand and leaf-mould, ( 
forms about the best compost. The drainage^ 
Bhould be good, and the soil rammed quite firm. „ 
Potting should be done in spring, when growth ’ 
is just commencing, and while this is takings 
place the closer and warmer the house can be.* 
kept, so as not to injure the other occupants, th<> 
better, with a moist atmosphere. TowardtJj 
autumn harden off by admitting more air, and a 
all times keep the foliage dean by spooging^ 
Water should always be liberally supplied, baj? 

r 



Dec. 15, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


467 


much less be given when at rest than when in 
growth. Shift into pots one or two-inches larger 
when required, which will be once a-year while 
small, once in two or more years as the plant 
gains size. If the soil is made firm as directed, 
and especially if a little manure water of some 
kind can be given while growth is being made, 
much smaller pots will suffice than if potted 
loosely. Very good results are produced by large 
growers by the use of blood manure and animal 
charcoal, but care must be taken iu application. 
Palms stand well in the dry air of a room, as a 
rule, but should not be so employed while growth 
is being made, and continued exposure to the 
action of gas will canse the foliage to assume an 
nnpleasant yellow hue. It is a great pity that 
most elegant of all Palms, Cocos Weddelliana, 
will not succeed under cool treatment, but it is 
no use to attempt it without abundance of heat. 
—B. C. E. _ 

Gaillardla grandlflora.—Too much cannot be said 
In praise of this beautiful perennial plant. I have got 
four plants, and this summer they have been in bloom 
from June up till November, and the flowers that have 
been cut from them are innumerable, and some of them 
have measured four inches across. I would advise those 
that have not got a plant of this to get one, if they wish 
to have plenty of magnificent flowers.— Nutfielp. 


GAS, OIL AND COKE HEATING. 

Mast questions are asked,and some good answers 
given, in the pages of Gardening respecting 
this important subject, but I fear there are many 
failures, in consequence of too readily following 
the advice tendered, without reasoning as to its 
special applicability to the enquirer's own case; 
hence the many conflicting experiences recorded 
which so mystify the reader. For instance, A 
has been successful with X's oil stove, which 15 
has had and condemns unmercifully, having sub¬ 
stituted one of Y’s stoves, which is perfection; 
while C has tried both, neither of which were 
satisfactory, because they smelled so badly and 
would not warm his place, so he has gone in for 
the same tort of a gas stove that D in turn says 
killed all his plants in a week’s time and caused 
him to go in for Z’s gas boiler and hot water 
pipes. E then writes that the cost of gas is so 
great, the heat so little, and the chances of going 
oat so many, that he has given up Z's boiler, and 
got a cod in its place that requires feeding but 
twice a day and costs several shillings a week 
less than gas. Others find coils useless, and re¬ 
commend a Sun or a Moon boiler, or a Man¬ 
chester or a Liverpool one, just as they hap¬ 
pen to have hit upon one which pleases them. 
Having had to do with almost every form of 
heating apparatus, large or small, a few remarks 
as to the cautes of failure or success may be of 
general service. 


Petroleum oil, under its various names of 
paraffin, rock, crystal, Ac., may be safely nsed, as 
a rule, without a fine ; the danger lies in the 
burner or make of stove, or the trimming of 
wicks, not in the mere fact of its smelling. X's 
stoves without a chimney to burner answered 
well with A, bat put the same stove near a door, 
with a strong wind blowing outside, and the 
place will be filled with smoke and fumes, which 
readily injure the plants, as in B's case. Y's 
stove with a glass chimney acts very well, but one 
night the glass cracks from a sudden chill, and 
falls on the burner, with what result anybody 
can guess. C is very careful and knows of these 
failures, so keeps his burners cased round and 
burning too low, causing asmell andproducingno 
heat, especially so as his house has twice the cubic 
contents of A or B’s house. Some burners are 
choked below with the burnt wick, or are so badly 
made that the brasswork gets over heated, and 
the whole thing gets alight; or, if not so bad as 
that, the heat volatilises the oil in container, and 
the vapour fills the place, smells badly, and 
injures the plants. 

Gas, where it can be had cheaply, is the great 
favourite with most beginners; it is so clean, so 
nice and easy to tnrn on and off, and requires no 
attention for days together in severe weather, 
that if it does cost a trifle more, it saves trouble 
and the risk of a coke fire going out at three 
o clock in the morning. But here again there 
are such flatly contradictory experiences, that it 
is difficult to decide or to reconcile some of the 
statements made in perfect faith by the writers. 
C having failed with oil, as just mentioned (his 
house being 14 feet long by fl feet wide), has 
bought two of the Syphon gas stoves with 
Axgand burners, because of their being more 
Easily regelated (as described ^n^ ID--" 1 -"- J *- 


l^^jatefl in 


Gardening of March 18, 1882), and gets all 
the heat he requires, with the advantage of suffi¬ 
cient light to look over his treasures when he 
comes home in the winter evenings; while 
another person—who has bought cheaply a 
similar three-pillar stove, which the dealer who 
sells scores of them assures him is quite safe— 
finds his plants gradually withering from the 
effects of the nncondensed sulphurous fumes, 
the stove being only an imitation of the genuine 
article. On the other hand, D has a genuine 
Syphon, but will have an atmospheric Bunsen 
burner (his bosom friend assuring him that 
Argands are not safe), and taming it low one 
milder evening, finds the next morning his plants 
stifled with the escaping gas, the reduced pres¬ 
sure on mains at midnight having caused the 
flame to go out. E finds the same thing occurs 
with Z’s gas boiler, which has been burning one 
shilling's worth of gas nightly in the vain attempt 
to heat hot-water pipes 4 inches in diameter; 
while D, having discarded his stove, uses the 
same gas boiler economically, as he has only 
2 -inch pipes, containing one-fourth the bulk of 
water. One man finding his neighbour gets on 
well with a stove in front of his lean-to house 
8 feet by 5 feet, buys a larger one to stand in 
the centre of his span-roof 10 feet square, and 
one very cold morning discovers nearly all his 
plants destroyed by frost, though the ther¬ 
mometer hung near the middle shows 40° to 
have been the minimum at that point. 

In each of these illustrations the causes are 
pretty olearly hinted at, but without going into 
precise details in each case, or saying anything 
as to particular stoves or persons, some explana¬ 
tory hints as to forms and sizes of houses, as 
affecting the good or bad qualities of a stove, 
may be found useful. Lean-to roofs against a 
house or high wall require heat only in front, 
but if over 0 feet wide it is advisable to have 
heat at the most exposed glass end. Now, many 
such houses have a large stepped stage in front 
so as to let the plants be seen from a window in 
the wall at back, and there is no room for a 
stove, except near the back or one end. A good 
warmth is felt all about there, but still plants 
die off in front, for the simple reason they never 
get any warmth at all. Glass being a thin sub¬ 
stance, cold easily penetrates it (irrespective of 
the lap3 in it), and the lighter warm air simply 
rises to the highest point of roof, leaving the 
cold air to keep falling along the front by its 
heavier weight, whence it is drawn under the 
stage up to the stove. If the heated surface, 
whether of pipes, flue, or stove is in front, the 
interior of the house is kept at its normal con¬ 
dition, and the surface of glass being kept warm 
repels the cold and prevents the condensation of 
moisture on the glass, and its drip, drip, drip 
among the plants. A house over 10 feet long 
should have two stoves not more than 3 feet 
from glass ends, or 2 feet away from front. In 
a span-roof, 14 feet by 10 feet, with glass all 
round, four small Btoves would be better, bnt 
two are absolutely necessary for safety. 

An enquirer lately speaks of the cost of an oil 
stove at 35s. as being alarge item, but four common 
lamps at 3s. each, with good wide wicks, will give 
as much heat and it will be more diffused. What¬ 
ever the power of the stove, whether fed with oil, 
gas, or coke, it will not radiate heat more than 
3 feet or 1 feet (as a rule) without being so hot 
as to injure plants near it. An advantage of two 
oil stoves is that one alone may do sometimes, 
but a larger sized one cannot be turned low with¬ 
out unpleasant smell. Foragood heat with perfect 
combustion, the Duplex burners seem the best. I 
have used scores of the Triplex, but have had 
many of them alight from the great heat pro¬ 
duced, and cannot advise their use for twelve 
hours’ continuous heating. I have mentioned a 
gas stove (the Syphon) which is the only safe one 
I know, because it so effectually condenses the 
sulphurous products of combustion which destroy 
plant life. It has this advantage, too, that with an 
Argand burner low down and a copper back, the 
heat is reflected and can be felt at a distance of 
6 feet or more, where an atmospheric burner 
would confine its heat more to the immediate 
vicinity of the stove, and radiate very little in 
proportion. Argands or other clear flame burners 
will smoke and produce soot if flame is too high, 
or if turned full on when the increased main 
pressure comes on, usually about dusk, but this 
class oE burner can be turned down to the mini¬ 
mum of size and heating power, while a Bunsen 
or ring burner, with its small Hue flickering 


flame, free from soot at any pressure, goes out 
readily, or strikes back to the air inlet, if pressure 
is reduced in the night, or if there is a down 
draught from outer flue, or even if there is too 
mnch up draught forcing in more air through the 
burner than there is gas to mix with it. No gas 
stove or boiler (eves if outside) is perfectly safe 
without some means of condensing the vapours; 
though these may be carried up by a flue, yet 
the cold wind drives them in through laps of 
glass, Ac. 

A few words on common errors as to cost of 
fuel. One writer speaks of two atmospheric 
gas-burners consuming only 4 feet of gas per 
hour, and there are stoves advertised to bum 
that amount only (or some equally incredibly 
small quantity of oil), but if any one reasons at 
all on the subject, he will find that so small a 
quantity cannot possibly give warmth to a house 
12 feet by 8 feet in frosty weather. I have 
tested gas-burners of almost every description, 
and, supposing a single atmospheric burner to 
nse only 4 feet hourly, I am perfectly certain no 
one can get heat enough from that quantity to 
raise the temperature 5° in a greenhouse of 600 
cubic feet. If the gas has first to heat the water in 
24 feet of pipes, and to pass that heat through 
the iron pipe, it will be some hours before it will 
raise the temperature 2°, and in frosty weather 
the cold will beat the heat by long odds. Water 
must be nearly at boiling point to warm through 
cast iron pipes, and if a person bad to wait for 
his tea while 3 J gallons of cold water was being 
boiled by burning 4 feet of gas per hour under 
the kettle or boiler, I am afraid he would have 
to go to bed without it. So with oil lamps try¬ 
ing to heat 4 gallons of water in 30 feet of 2-inch 
pipes. If the water is put in boiling hot it may 
be kept warm with either gas or oil, but yon 
cannot make it hot if pat in cold with such 
small quantities of fuel. The same remark will 
apply to making a shovelful of coke bum for 12 
hours in a slow-combnstion stove. With oil no 
heat is wasted, as it is all kept in the house, 
while with gas or coke one-third the heat (as a 
rale) must pass off by flue, hence the economy 
of a properly condensing gas stove. 

Whatever heating appliances are used, do not 
try to save heat by stopping np all the air inlets 
or outlets, a practice which has had as mnch to 
do with reported injuries to plants as the fumes 
of oil or gas; but a very eimple method to 
economise the warmth is to make a curtain or 
blind of common glazed calico, and hang up at 
night inside the roof and along front or ends 
which may he exposed to cold winds. This will 
keep the cold air from being driven on to the 
plants, and, with a couple of lamps, a tem¬ 
perature can be kept np at very little cost, equal 
to that obtained by a more expensive apparatus. 

Now and then there are inquiries as to how to 
make a stove or a boiler at home, and some in¬ 
structions given in reply by ingenious corres¬ 
pondents ; bnt for the general amateur to at¬ 
tempt to do this well or cheaply in the end, is as 
reasonable as it would be for him to make his 
own chandeliers or furniture, or his own 
clothing, irrespective of the principles of “ live 
and let live," and of each man sticking to his 
own trade. In these days of severe competi¬ 
tion, general advertising, and low prices, an 
amateur must be exceedingly clever to make one 
apparatus alone cheaper than the maker of 
hundreds. 

A BOILER AND HOT WATER PIPES is the best 
method of heating for anyone who can Bpare £i, 
and will last a lifetime if properly managed; 
but here again, the very common fault of home 
made greenhouses, that of having a door in 
front instead of the end, prevents the use of a 
boiler, without sinking for a stoke hole. Pipes 
are wanted in front only of a lean-to, and on 
both sides and one end of a span-roof honse, 
and cannot cross a doorway, as they must be 
kept on same level, with a rise of 1-inch in 10 
feet from boiler outlet. Given these condition*, 
the boiler itself (for small structures) is not a 
very important matter, whether a coil, or a cast 
or a wrought iron cylinder boiler. A short 
description of some of these will be given in a 
separate article. One boiler has become very 
popular, from its not requiring any outside 
space or stokehole, being built in the end wall 
of greenhouse, so giving off its heat inside 
the house, but its one drawback in many 
cases (where the full quantity of pipe is at¬ 
tached) is the small quantity of fuel it holds 
to lost tlW* night, If * ooil, st«r, or oUi«r 


41)8 


GAJWEJVIJVG ILLUSTRATED 


[Dec. 15 1883. 


independent boiler is used, it mast ordinarily 
be outside the house, and so a covering or 
protection from the weather is necessary. If 
exposed, the loss of heat from boiler may be 
equal to half its nominal power, for which 
reduced power the boiler itself is often un¬ 
justly blamed. Never put as much piping on 
to a boiler as it is calculated for. In any 
boiler fire remember that the fact of burning 
slowly means less heat given off, and a cubic 
foot of fuel burning slowly during sixteen 
hours gives off no more heat than if it is 
all burnt in eight hours, and in frosty windy 
weather you may burn your fuel too slowly to 
keep up with the cold entering the greenhouse. 
House cinders mixed with coke broken small 
makes the best fuel for any of these boilers 
and cannot cake or hang up above the fire. If 
there is an extended top feeder of conical 
shape above smoke outlet, a few bits of small 
coal may be mixed in upper layers of fuel, but if 
the interior of fuel space is the same width top 
and bottom, do not use coal (except anthracite 
broken small) as it swells and will not fall on 
the fire below, which of course dies out for want 
of feeding.—B. W. W. 


HOUSE AHD WINDOW GARDENING. 

SAXIFRAGES IN WINDOWS. 
Whenever I see a broad, sunny, unoccupied 
window ledge, the thought crosses my mind that 
many of our little Alpines there would find a 
happier home than they do in a general way 
under cultivation. I remember once seeing a 
fine specimen of the Cobweb Houseleek with 
such exuberance of growth as to nearly clothe 
the sides of the pot, also Saxifrage pyramidalis 
and one or two other Saxifrages, all healthy and 
strong, and filling the window-ledge of a villa 
in a suburban district. It is probable the owner 
might have tried them in every position in his 
garden without being able to induce them to 
thrive thus freely, and he had the additional 
satisfaction of well furnishing a situation 
naturally unfitted for the permanent residence 
of plants generally. Many of the smallest and 
prettiest of the encrusted Saxifrages are just a 
little bit difficult to please ; they have in many 
places a way of decaying in the centre. Now and 
then a rosette of foliage disappears in this 
manner, until at last the entire plant is lost. 
The position they seem to like best is on rock- 
work in an exposed place, where they are swept 
by every breeze, catch the sun from morn till 
eve, and where the roots find shelter from 
scorching sun without at any time having to 
fear an over-abundance of moisture. It is, 
indeed, faulty drainage that these bright little 
Alpines fear most, and, although they may linger 
on for a time in soils which have a tendency to 
become close and waterlogged in winter, they 
are never happy there, and in the end die com¬ 
pletely away. One of the best collections of en¬ 
crusted Saxifrages I ever saw was in Mr. 
Stevens's garden, at By fleet, where they occupied 
portions of a sunny rockery, and were planted 
in light sandy soil. The miniature proportions 
of these Saxifrages allow of their culture in the 
smallest garden, and where space is restricted 
and variety desired, one could scarcely do better 
than find a home for some of them in some sunny 
spot. And here I may as well say that the rockery 
as generally built is by no means indispensable 
for them ; all that they need is to be guaranteed 
against stagnation, and this is well effected 
by raising them a few inches above the 
ordinary garden level. A more natural position 
for such plants is often obtained by simply 
placing a few large flints, pieces of sandstone, 
bricks, or something similar, on the ground, fill¬ 
ing np firmly with soil, than in raising a quantity 
of material some feet in the air, which often 
becomes so dry in summer as to afford but a 
poor home for the plants set out on it. Reverting 
once more to thequestion of growingthese plants 
on window ledges, I may mention that there are 
many rare rock plants which sould be grown 
there—much better, indeed, than elsewhere. 
Amongst these may be mentioned the Ilouse- 
leeks, a large and interesting family, very few of 
which are known to the many; Stnnecrops 
of the common type, and such as the Japan 
specie?. Sieboldi and its fine variegated form, 
also the very ornamental pyramidal Saxifrage 
anditsnearrelationlongifolia. None of these fear 
frosts or drying winds, and may kept in health on 

Digitized by GOOgle 


a sunny window ledge from year to year with but 
little trouble, and form a novel and interesting 
phase of window gardening. Where the windowi 
open outwards, window ledge gardening is 
almost impossible, but in cases where the sash 
pushes up it is possible to grow a very varied 
selection of plants on the window ledge. Some 
provision should be made for guaranteeing the 
pots against being thrown over or blown down, 
and this may consist of simple iron bars run 
round the outside of the window ledge at heights 
varying from 3 inches to 5 inches. This would 
allow of the use of quite small pots, and for 
encrusted Saxifrages and plants of a similar 
nature, large ones would be a mistake. Pro¬ 
bably many of your readers do not know what 
encrusted Saxifrages are. Well, they form neat 
rosettes of foliage, the leaves being margined 
with a white encrustation, which, contrasting 
with the deep olive green of the foliage 
generally, imparts to the plants a very bright 
and cheerful appearance. The crowns of leaves 
are arranged with beautiful regularity, some 
of them being no larger than a shilling. They 
are perfect gems amongst hardy plants, and 
delight by their unvarying verdure and bright¬ 
ness when winter's hand is laid heavily upon 
our gardens. John Counhill. 


FRUIT. 

FRUIT CULTURE IN DEVONSHIRE. 

If fruit culture will pay anywhere it ought to do 
so in Devonshire, that county being exceptionally 
favoured in ihe way of climate. Often when the 
blossoms of Apples and Pears get cut off in 
other parts of England they escape there. 
Growers in Devonshire therefore stand a better 
chance of being remunerated for their outlay 
and labour in planting there than elsewhere. 
Wherever orchards are to be formed, the situa¬ 
tions chosen should be sheltered from north and 
east winds by high trees or hills, and if sur-1 
rounded or shut in on those sides by one or the 
other, the trees are not only in a much better 
position for escaping spring frosts, but they are 
also partially protected against gales, which in 
the autumn tear off the fruit and dash it to the 
ground long before it is ready to gather. The 
nature of the soil, too, is of importance. It is 
useless to plant Apples and Pears with a view to 
profit unless they can have a good deep loam 
with a free and natural drainage, conditions 
under which they seldom or never suffer from 
excess or want of water, and the roots and bark 
always remain healthy and clean. Why trees 
canker or become covered with Moss in the way 
so frequently seen is because the soil or subsoil 
is unsuitable to them ; it may be from poverty 
or excess of wet, and a profitable crop under 
such circumstances is quite out of the question. 
Drains, to be effectual, must be made deep, as 
it is not the surface water that does the injury, 
but that which lies below, and it is only by 
draining this off that land can be kept in a 
sweet, wholesome condition. If Moss and stunted 
growths result from poverty, the only remedy 
is to top-dress heavily with manure, or feed the 
Grass off with sheep and pigs; but if cattle of 
any kind be grazed among the trees, they must 
be protected by having the stems encased in 
some way. 

Tree guards. — Though wood securely 
fastened so as to form a sort of guard may 
answer well, it is likely that guards made of iron 
would be the cheapest and best in the end. 
Anyhow, sheep must be kept off in some way, 
for though they do not bark the trees, they rub 
violently against them, and the grease from their 
coats seems to have a very bad effect on the 
rind. Stiff stemmed trees may be secured from 
harm by having Gorse or sharp Thorn bushes 
bound round with wire, protection which lasts a 
number of years and renders them safe. 

Varieties. —In forming orchards for profit 
it is useless going in for many varieties of Apples 
and Pears; the best way is to keep to the very 
early and late sorts, as there is generally a glut 
at mid-season, when only poor prices are ob¬ 
tained. It may be objected that the storing is 
against late sorts, but the greater part of all 
produce has to be stored, and nothing pays 
better for keeping than Apples and Pears. With 
a suitable place they give little or no trouble 
after they are gathered, as j^il that is necessary 
is to look them over occasionally and pick out 
any goiEg to decay befere they affect others 



they are lying in contact with. The most valu¬ 
able Pears are Glou Morceau,Winter Nelis, Passe 
Colmar, Bergamot Esperen, and Josephine de 
Malices. These all require a warm, sunny spot, 
and when thus situated, the whole of them do 
well either as espaliers or pyramids, and finish np 
their fruit in a way that, when ripe, it is highly 
coloured and of first-class quality. 

Pinching and pruning.—To expose the 
Pears as much as possible to the sun, the branches 
should be thin and the spurs kept close to them 
by judicious and timely pinching, as by an early 
removal of the young shoots, light and air are 
let in, and the strength concentrated in the for¬ 
mation of blossom buds. To get the trees up to 
a good size quickly, they should be allowed to 
grow pretty much as they will, and not pruned 
or cut hard in, as is too much the fashion, the 
doing of which retards and throw’s them back 
for years. The more top they form, the more 
root they make, and the quicker they establish 
themselves and become profitable. All that is 
wanted in the regulating and ttainiEg young 
trees is to nip out any shoots that are misplaced 
or not wanted for furnishing the frame, and let 
the others go to become as long and strong as 
they like. They want no stopping or cutting 
back, as they are sure to break full of buds up 
their entire length and form plenty of spurs. 
The same remarks apply to Apples, which only 
need thinning out in the winter by removing 
any shoots that are inside and likely to cross and 
fill up the centre. The best kinds for market 
growing are King Pippin, Blenheim Pippin, 
Cox’s Orange, Wellington, and Sturmer Pippin: 
and for summer use, Keswick Codlin, Lord 
Suffleld, and Gravenstein, all of which come in 
in the order in which they are named. S. D. 


ROSES. 

Rose Gloire de Dijon.— On souther west 
walls there are few daystrom May to January on 
which half or fully-opened buds of this Rose 
may not be gathered. It also does well on east 
or north walls, and on every possible mixture 
of all the cardinal points. In fact, where room 
can be found on walls, house, outhouse, stable, 
or fence, Gloire de Dijon Roses should be 
planted in every available aspect. This will do 
very much indeed to create and sustain a con¬ 
tinuous sucession of bloom throughout the year. 
This Rose should also be planted in mixed 
borders and shrubberies, in beds, and sheltered 
nooks and corners in all directions. It is also 
admirable for clothing arches, arbours, or 
summer houses, running up poles, forming 
pyramids, rough groups or bushes, or makiDg 
hedges. A hedge of Gloire de Dijon alone, or 
with a few plants of Gloire des Rosemanes 
among it here and there for the sake of con¬ 
trast, is admirable. No Tea Roses form finer 
or more effective standards than Gloire de Dijon; 
with skilful manipulation they can also be 
moulded into very effective weeping Roses, a 
form but seldom seen now-a-days. For snch 
purposes only a few strong shoots, say from 
five to nine, should be allowed to grow, and 
bent down over a hoop or some other contrivance. 
These will then send forth shoots and flowtr 
throughout a great portion of their length, and 
will form specimens of great richness and beauty 
—most unlike, in their flowing grace, the usual 
run of stiff and formal standard Roses. But 
for sure crops of autumn flow’ers, running right 
into or through the winter, rather old and wbat 
may be termed stunted standard plants yield 
the most bloom. The antumnal harvests of 
beauty may be further enriched by the stopping 
of all the strongest shoots early in the season 
to within 6 inches or a foot of their base. They 
will then break back and produce several shoots 
each of less strength and much more floriferous. 
Should either of these secondary shoots prove 
abnormally vigorous, these might again be stopped 
in J uly or even as late as August, and from the 
fresh breaks thus forced probably the finest and 
most abundant crop of autumnal blooms and 
winter buds would be’gathered, for it is emphati¬ 
cally true that either the weakest or the medium 
sized shoots invariably produce the most and the 
best late autumnal or winter blooms.—D. T. 


10714.—Violets not bloomlng.—Vlolets do best 
under a north wall, and should not remain more than 
two or three years in the same spot. I should try a little 
leaf-mould and soot. They do well under g frame.— 
Stretton. 


5? 

h 

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* 

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* 





Dec. 15, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


469 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


SPIRAEA. FLAGELLIFORMIS. 

A glance at the annexed illustration will make 
our readers better acquainted with the elegant 
beauty of this Spiraa than any written descrip¬ 


the common Scotch Fir is frequently used for 
the purpose, and generally answers well, but in the 
course of a few years the lower branches are apt 
to die off, a fault not possessed by the Spruce. The 
soil where Spruce is intended to be planted should 
be prepared by being deeply dug or trenched, 


effect, plants too thickly. This would not 
signify much if thinning commenced early 
enough; but generally this is delayed till the 
bottom branches of the permanent trees and 
shrubs are seriously injured. A Cedar, it may 
be, has been planted amongst a bed of common 
things for shelter. The planter's idea was that 
the common things would be gradually removed, 
until finally the Cedar stood alone, fully exposed 
on all sides. But this had been neglected, and 
the bottom branches are so seriously injured as 
to destroy the beauty and symmetry of the tree 
for a number of years, if not altogether, and 
the result is the tree is cut down, so unsatis¬ 
factory is its appearance. The same occurs with 
other choice shrubs that require light on them 
on all sides in older that they may grow 
into perfect specimens. How soon after 
planting thinning should begin must 
depend upon the kinds of trees and 
shrubs planted and the nature of 
the soil. But to meet every case, 
a thorough examination should 
take place every year, pre¬ 
ferably at this season 
when there is usually 
more leisure than at 
other times, and when 


tion could possiblyijdo. It is, we consider, one I 
of the most beautiful of all Spiricas, and unques- j 
tionably the finest of the white flowering kinds. 
We met with it last summer in Mr. Joseph 
Stevens’s richly stocked garden at Grasmere, 
By fleet, and thought at the t ime that we had 
rarely seen a shrub possessing such a combina¬ 
tion of gracefulness and beauty. From a spray 
of this bush our drawing was made. It is a 
slender growing, wiry twigged shrub, ranging 
from 3 feet to 6 feet in height in favourable 
soils and localities. During the latter part of 
May and the beginning of June, each of the 
preceding year’s shoots is densely wreathed with 
small, erect clusters of white flowers as in the 
spray shown in the illustration. When a good 
sized bush is thus furnished with blossom, 
its beautiful appearance may be better 
imagined than described. This Spiraea belongs 
to that section of the shrubby class charac¬ 
terised by their flowers being produced in 
hemispherical corymbs or loose umbels. The 
plant here illustrated is one that everybody 
should endeavour to secure, and the best way in 
order to this end would be to see it when in 
flower, or a spurious imitation may be sent in¬ 
stead. As to its culture, nothing need be said 
scarcely; it is not at all fastidious as to soil, 
and it is hardy enough to brave even the worst 
of our winters. However, it is grateful for 
liberal treatment as to soil, and at planting it is 
advisable to put it in a good mixture of turfy 
loam, made still richer by the addition of a little 
good decayed leaf mould, or, better still, a little 
rotten manure. In material of this description 
the young plant will grow apace and make long, 
vigorous shoots, and in a year or two it will have 
exhausted the goodness of the soil considerably, 
and then it will begin to yield a yearly crop of 
wreaths of snowy blossoms. It should not be 
placed in a shrubbery, but should occupy a promi¬ 
nent position where it can get plenty of light 
and air and be seen to advantage. 


EVERGREEN HEDGES. 


The common Yew makes one of the most orna 
mental of hedges, but it grows slowly, and ought 
never to be planted in any situation where live 
stock of any kind is likely to obtain access to 
it. The Spruce grows rapidly, and with proper 
attention proves little inferior to the Yew as 
regards appearance, and quite equal to it in 
affording shelter. The common Beech tree is 
alBO very useful for this purpose, as when kept 
in the form of a hedge it retains its old leaves 
until the youDg ones are about ready to take 
their place. In some parts of Norfolk and 
Suffolk, where the land is so light and poor that 
qaick or common Whitethorn, which is generally 
employed for hedges, refuses to grow imon it, j 


and the trees 
may be put 
in any time 
between the begin¬ 
ning of October and 
that of March, but the 
first-named month is the 
best. The plants should be 
healthy, young, and well fur¬ 
nished, i.o. t plants which have 
been once or twice transplanted 
and that have retained their lower 
branches, which will not be the case 
if they have been allowed to become 
crowded too long in nursery beds. They 
should be some 2 feet or 3 feetin height, 
and should be planted at a distance of 
2 feet from each other; but if larger, this 
distance may be increased. But little 
attention will be required the first year 
after planting beyond freeing them from 
weeds, and as soon as growth commences, 
say towards the end of April, the hedge 
shears should be passed along each side 
so as to shorten the side shoots, and to 
some extent give form to the hedge. But 
the top or leading shoots should not b8 
interfered with until they have attained 
the desired height, when they should be 
stopped, an operation which will induce 
the lower part to thicken or fill up; and 
at first the width should not be allowed 
to greatly exceed 2 feet, as the hedge, as 
it becomes older, will to some extent un¬ 
avoidably increase in width. The main 
stern of the Spruce being pretty strong, 
the hedge may be allowed to grow to any 
desired height, and it may also be allowed 
to assume any desired form, such as wide 
at bottom and tapering towards the top, 
or in what is known as the hog’s-mane 
form ; or it may be made, as it were, to 
form a dark green wall of any reason¬ 
able height, and exactly the same width 
at top as at bottom. The latter form is 
certainly the most ornamental. Such 
hedges must be annually clipped with 
the ordinary hedge shears, an operation 
which should be performed in August, 
or, if greater neatness is desired, twice 
in the season, say in July and October. 

P. G. 


Thinning trees and Bhrubs.— 

It often happens that the ideas of plan¬ 
ters are not grasped by their succes¬ 
sors ; therefore the trees and shrubs 
which were intended for nurses only are 
left too long, and much mischief is the result. 
In laying' out new gardens, nearly every¬ 
body, in striving after what is termed immeiiate 


planting can be cleanly and expeditiously 
carried out. The planting of the permanent 
features of a plate should be so contrived as to 
require no rearrangement, and sho ild be worked 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 








Digitized by 


Google 


Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Dec. 15, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


471 


Totting. 

In potting Fuchsias, always shift into larger 
pots as soon as the roots push through the ball 
and begin to form in clusters round the sides, 
though large shifts should be avoided for a 
reason I have already alluded to—viz, it en¬ 
courages gross growth. If the plants are re¬ 
quired to be in bloom for any special occasions, 
the flowers should be pinched o£E till within six 
or seven weeks of the time they are wanted in 
full flower. And if fed with liquid manure, and 
shaded from bright sunshine, they will continue 
in great perfection a long time. Some culti¬ 
vators recommend autumn propagation for the 
principal specimens, and I have often struck 
them at that time to have young plants as large 
as possible early in the season. The cuttings do 
not root so readily at that season, and are more 
difficult to obtain, as flowering shoots do not 
make good cuttings. But good cuttings can 
generally be obtained in August from plants 
turned out, or that have been standing in the 
open air some time in a shady place. To obtain 
the full advantage from autumn propagation, 
the young plants must he kept moving all 
winter on a shelf near the glass in a warm 
house. The object is to obtain an early start 
in spring, and if kept moving on steadily 
through the short days they will be far 
in advance of anything struck in spring. 
Keeping Fuchsias in winter in a resLing 
state involves no trouble, the usual plan 
being to put them away under the green¬ 
house stage till growth becomes active again, and 
then prune into shape and repot. They should 
not be kept absolutely dry. or the plants will not 
break so freely in spring. After repotting, warmth 
and moisture are essential to induce plenty of buds 
to break, and great assistance may be rendered 
to insure a perfect outline by depressing a shoot 
in one direction, or elevating one in another, so 
as to regulate the flow of the sap, equalise the 
growth, and keep the plants well balanced. To 
obtain large plants, pot on with judgment as 
fast as the roots work through the new soil. 
Fuchsias may be kept in good condition for many 
vears, but unless very large specimens are 
required, it is hardly advisable to keep the plants 
more than two or three years. The old plants 
that are annually cast off will come in useful to 
plant in groups about the grounds, or in shrub¬ 
beries. By picking out all the bottom eyes of 
voung vigorous plants, so as to have a foot or 
more of clear stem, and allowing the shoots above 
that height to grow out unstopped, falling over 
the edge of the pot, very handsome little speci¬ 
mens may be obtained for a drawing-room stand, 
or for dinner table decoration, and the flowers 
of Fuchsias, when the growth is encouraged to 
fall gracefully over, drooping downwards in a 
natural fashion, show themselves off to the best 
advantage. 

When the baskets are not too small, and they 
can be well supplied with water, a good way of 
making the most of old plants is to cut them 
down, and when they break, thin the shoots to 
half a dozen or so, let them grow out as dwarf 
spreading bushes, and plant in baskets for 
suspending in the greenhouse or conservatory, 
and no more attractive plants can be found. 
Anyone can do this, as the plants seed freely, 
and those with a taste for hybridising may 
<rather together a dozen or so of the most dis¬ 
tinct varieties. Cover the ventilators over with 
canvas to keep out bee3, and operate with the 
camel-hair pencil, afterwards washing the seeds 
out from the pulp of the fruit; dry them, but 
not in the sun as they get hard, and sow in heat 
in Bpring. 

Varieties. 

Dark varieties .—Lord Falmouth, Sir W. G. 
Armstrong, Hercules, Wave of Life, Letty Lye, 
James Lye, Prince of Orange, Victor Emmanuel, 
Pride of Woolwich, Champion of the World 
(double), Prince Leopold (double), Sir Garnet 
Wolseley (double). 

Light- varieties .—White Souvenir de Chiswick, 
Beauty of Swanley, Covent Garden White, Mrs. 
T Lye Guiding Star, Fairest of the Fair, Star¬ 
light, Annie, Earl Beaconsfield, Aurora superba, 
Kingsburvana, Miss Lucy Finnis, Mrs. H. Can- 

nell. _ , 

Begonias. 

We now possess Begonias in all colours, from 
■white, yellow, and red, specially adapted for 
ereenhonse culture, and that may in summer be 
Utilised for planting ia't® open sir Inbosltfens 


sheltered from cutting and boisterous winds. 
The tuberous-rooted Begonias are of compara¬ 
tively rcoent origin, and are most useful for 
summer and autumn decoration. They fill up 
well in the greenhouse or conservatory after 
the Pelargoniums and other early-blooming 
plants are past their best; the colours, too, are 
bright, and they fiower continuously for 
several months. When the flowering is over, 
they may be stowed away in a cool place. We 
pack them away thickly on the border in the 
orchard house; if they have been grown in pots, 
they are turned out, and the balls packed 
closely together to economise space, and a little 
fine sandy soil scattered among them to fill in 
all the interstices between the balls. In this 
condition they may remain till growth becomes 
active again in spring, or, if early-blooming 
plants are required, they may be potted in 
February and plunged in a gentle hotbed in a 
pit or frame. They require to be kept just moist 
in winter, and in a cool place very little wa'er 
will suffice, treated as I have suggested. If kept 
too dry, there is danger of their perishing. They 
may be wintered beneath the stage in the pots 
in which they grew in a cool greenhouse, but 
should be shaken out and repotted as soon as 
the eyes start. 

Propagation. 


i^tfib open ai^hi|>o^ 


An easy way is to divide the tuberous kinds 
in Bpring. When the earth is shaken away, it is 
an easy matter to take off rooted cuttings with 
a sharp knife, as usually numbers of eyes will 
start. These, if potted and placed in heat, will 
make strong plants in a little time. They may 
be rooted from cuttings of the shoots the same 
as other Begonias, but they do not take kindly, 
and are a long time rooting. The quickest way 
of getting up a large stock is to sow seeds. Very 
often the seeds drop about on pots and borders 
during the summer, as they seed very freely, 
and grow in large numbers. These may be 
lifted in patches and planted in the frame to get 
strong. When the seeds have been saved with 
care from good varieties, all the plants raised 
will be good enough for decorative purposes, 
are 1 and some, doubtless, will be worth perpetuating. 
Good sized specimens can be grown in one sea¬ 
son from seeds if they are sown early in March, 
and are helped on in a close, warm pit till Mid¬ 
summer. The seeds are very small, but anyone 
that can get up Calceolarias or Gloxinias will 
succeed with Begonias. The soil in the pots 
should be light and sandy, but should be 
made firm and be well moistened before the 
seeds are sown, and the merest sprink 
ling of sand will suffice for a covering. 
The longer seeds of so diminutive a nature re 
main in the earth before they germinate, the 
more danger there is of their not growing at all 
or at least starting away so weakly as not to 
make good plants in a reasonable time: therefore, 
they should be plunged in a gentle hotbed at 
once. The seeds must be sown thinly, as a ten¬ 
dency to debility is often engendered in the seed 
pot by thick Bowing.- Place a square of glass 
over the top of the pot to keep a moist atmo 
sphere around the seeds and render watering less 
necessary. Unless the watering is carefully done, 
the very small seeds are easily carried down too 
deep for germination. A good way of watering 
such things is to have a pail of tepid water and 
dip the pot in, but not allow the water to flow 
over the top. Sufficient moisture will be imbibed 
through the bottom and the porous sides of the 
pot for the needs of the seeds in a very short 
time. 

Potting. 

When the young plants are large enough to 
handle prick off into pots or pans an inch apart, 
and return to the pit, and as soon as their leaves 
meet in their new position pot off singly into 3-inch 
pots and shift on as they require it. Turfy loam 
and leaf-mould will grow them well, and a little 
peat and sand may be added for choice varie¬ 
ties. Crushed charcoal or charcoal dust is valu¬ 
able to mix with the soil for all this class of 
plants, but very rich manures should be avoided 
The branches will require a little support as 
they progress. In most cases, one stake in the 
centre (or as near the centre as it can be in 
serted, as it must not be thrust Into the tuber) 
will support the whole plant by linking up the 
shoots with strings of matting, and the plants 
will have a better appearance trained in this 
way than if each shoot be tied np stiffly close 
to a piece of stick. Gather seeds from the best 


varieties only, and the stock will improve. It is 
a good plan to place those having the best 
flowers by themselves, and use the hair pencil 
among them. 

Besides the Tuberous Begonias referred to 
above, there is an older race of Begonias very 
well suited for the greenhouse or conservatory, 
some of which, including insignis and manicata, 
are winter bloomers of very great merit. Cuttings 
of these should be rooted early in spring, and 
they should be potted on and kept in a close 
pit till the middle of J une, when a little more 
ventilation may be given. Nice little speci¬ 
mens in 5-inch pots may be grown in one season 
from cuttings rooted in February. If large speci¬ 
mens are required for any decorative purpose, 
cut down the old plants and start them from the 
base again in spring, or, better still, when giving 
the last shift, put three young plants into a 
10-inch pot, and grow on well. This treatment 
refers more especially to the free-growing kinds, 
such as insignis, fuchsioides, Ingrami, Weltoni- 
ensis, Sutherland!, semperflorens, and others of 
a like nature. 

The Cyclamen. 

Though usually classed as a greenhouse plant, 
to bring out its great decorative qualities properly 
and make the most of the power which its rapid 
increase from seeds of late years has placed in 
oar hands, a warm pit or frame, to bring on the 
plants in their early stages, is needed, in addition 
to the greenhouse. No class of plants have 
made more progress of late years, and this has 
been mainly due to the perspicuity of a few 
market growers, who recognized its fitness for a 
market plant. It is especially an amateur’s 
plant, as the small light houses of the villa 
gardens are better adapted for the culture of 
this class of plants than the larger, more lofty 
structures often to be found in extensive 
gardens. 

Sowing the Seeds. 

When plenty of warmth can be insured all 
winter to keep the plants moving on unchecked, 
the seeds may be sown in August, in pots orpans, 
well drained, and filled to within an inch of the 
top with sandy peat, covered with the same kind 
of material, or else with pure sand, and the pots 
should be either covered with Moss till the seed 
germinates, or else have squares of glass placed 
on the top. The pots should be placed in a gentle 
bottom heat, if available ; or, if not, in some 
genial situation, where the seeds 
will soon begin to move. The seeds soon 
vegetate if kept warm and moist, and when 
large enough to handle prick them off into pans 
or boxes of light rich soil abont an inch apart, 
still keeping them in a warm situation shaded 
from bright sunshine. After they become 
established and gather strength, each plant may 
have a pot to itself, patting them in 3-inch pots 
at first, and afterwards shift into 6-inch, and the 
very strongest may have a farther shift. As the 
season advances and the snn gains power, they 
will do better in cold frames at first kept rather 
close, bnt afterwards more freely ventilated. 
During the hot days of July it will be advisable 
to syringe a little thin limewath over the glass 
to soften the sun’s rays, and the first week in 
October they should be moved into a light, warm 
greenhouse near the glass to fiower. Hants so 
treated, if all has gone well, will make grand 
clusters of handsome foliage and brilliant 
coloured flowers. Nice little blooming plants 
can he obtained by sowing the seeds in a 
hotbed in February, and growing them on 
rapidly through the spring months and trans¬ 
ferring to the frames when hot summer comes. 
The plants producing the best flowers should 
be placed on one side for seed-bearing, and as 
they seed freely and can be grown into a 
flowering size in one year under good manage¬ 
ment, some growers do not save the old bulbs 
year after year, as was commonly done twenty 
years ago. 

Treatment op Old Bulbs. 

Sometimes the second year bulbs are planted 
out into a prepared border of light soil to rest 
and make their growth, lifting and repotting 
again in autumn. A better plan is to shake the 
bulbs out after resting, repot and plunge in 
Cocoa fibre in a cold frame, as by this way large 
well-established plants will be secured better 
prepared to support a large head of bloom than 
when planted out and are more or less unpre¬ 
pared. as the check of lifting and potting some' 



•172 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Dec. 15, 1883. 


what disorganises their growth. During the 
flowering season a genial, buoyant atmosphere 
suits them; if too much moisture is used, damp 
will lodge about the crown and the flower stems, 
and occasionally the leaf stalks decay. Loam 
andi leaf-mould or good peat in about equal 
portions with sand and crushed charcoal added 
to make, it porous, will suit them well. The 
crown of the bulb in potting must be kept 
well above the soil, as the damp has injurious 
effects when buried too deeply. Careful water¬ 
ing is necessary, especially when in flower, and 
green-fly must be watched for and promptly- 
destroyed. 

Tbe Cineraria. 

Seedlings of these are now so good from care¬ 
fully-selected strains, it is scarcely necessary to 
grow named kinds for merely house decoration. 
Sow in March for autumn blooming, about the 
middle of April for flowering in winter, and 
again early in .Tune for spring display. The 
March sowing should be placed in a hotbed, 
and the April stock also should be raised in a 
gentle heat. The June plants will succeed very 
well on a shelf in the greenhouse, with a piece 
of glass over the pot or pan. As soon as the 
little plants appear, stand the pots near the 
glass, but shade from bright sunshine. When 
strong enough to handle, prick off into pans an 
inch apart, and as soon as more space is required 
pot off singly into 3-inch pots. After they are 
fairly started on a separate existence. Cinerarias 
do not. require artificial beat. A close frame, 
with the bottom thickly strewn with coal ashes, 
is the best place. When the sun gains power, 
stand the frame in a cool, partially-shaded posi¬ 
tion, and allow plenty of space for the plants to 
grow, so that the leaves do not touch. Plenty 
of water at the roots and a moist atmosphere 
arc essential to clean, rapid growth. Shift the 
plants on into larger pots as they require it, 
ventilating freely to induce sturdy, vigorous 
growth, drawing the lights off altogether in 
warm weather. Two-thirds turfy loam to 
one of old hotbed manure, adding sand or 
crushed charcoal to give the necessary' poro¬ 
sity, seems to be just the soil to meet their require¬ 
ments. If kept too warm and close, or if per¬ 
mitted to suffer for want of water, green flies 
soon make their appearance; their presence may 
be looked upon as evidence of the plants having 
received a check, or to some irregularity in their 
treatment. If insects should attack the plants, 
there is nothing for it but to fumigate with 
Tobacco, and as the leaves are tender and very 
susceptible to injury from an overdose, the 
operation must be done with care. When the 
leaves are quite dry, give two or three 
smokings, with an interval of a day or two be¬ 
tween, rather than run any risk of overdoing it. 
In dealing with insect pests, promptitude is a 
great virtue. Nice decorative plants may be 
grown in 6 -inch pots, and 8 -inch pots will suffice 
for any large specimens. In any case it is best 
not to over-pot. As great help may be obtained 
when the flowers are coming up from the ju¬ 
dicious use of liquid manure, but free drain¬ 
age is essential to keep the foliage in good 
colour. As the plants advance in growth, liberal 
supplies of water will be needed. Weak liquid 
manure is an advantage. 

Saving Seeds. 

When a good Btrain has been obtained, place 
a few of the best and most distinct varieties on 
one side for seed bearing purposes, and gather 
the seeds as they ripen. Cinerarias should stand 
on a cool bottom, and even in winter they will 
do much better if only fire heat enough be used 
to efficiently keep out frost. Double-flowered 
Cinerarias were originated on the continent a few 
years ago, and are now pretty well scattered 
through the best gardens in this country. The 
best varieties have flowers as double as a 
Ranunculus, and J are exceedingly pretty, and 
last much longer in a cut state than the single 
forms do. They can be raised from seeds, and 
by obtaining packets from the best sources, 
saving the plants producing good flowers, and 
propagating from offsets, a good strain can be 
originated with but little trouble. 

The Herbaceous Calceolaria. 

Sow about the middle of July in pots of light, 
rich soil made firm, water with a fine-rosed pot, 
and when the soil has had time to settle, scatter 
the seeds thinly ;on the damp surface, cover 
lightly with silver sand, place a square of glass 

Digitizer L GO 


over the top of the pot, and stand the pot in a 
close place and shade from bright sun ; a close 
hand light will do; and if the pots are plunged in 
Cocoa fibre, no watering will be required till the 
seeds germinate, which, if they are good and new, 
will be in about a fortnight. Prick off into boxes 
of light, rich soil when large enough, and transfer 
to a cool, close frame placed at the north side of 
a fence. As soon as the leaves of the plants 
meet, transfer them to single pots, and shift on 
as they require more space, still following up 
the cool treatment till October, when they 
should be taken to a cool house, where only 
heat enough is employed to keep out frost. 
Calceolarias are at all times rat her chary of bright 
sunshine, and if much exposed to it the leaves 
lose that beautiful deep green colour which is 
such a set off to the brilliant blossoms which are 
so freely produced in spring by healthy plants. 
The plants during the growing season must not 
be allowed to become pot-bound, and much 
injary will be done if they ever suffer 
for want of water. If they must at any 
time occupy a position on a stage, cover the 
stage with green Moss. About equal parts of 
turfy loam and manure, with a sprinkling of 
charcoal dust, is the best compost for them, and 
they need not be potted quite so firmly as is 
desirable for most plants. Calceolarias will 
succeed very well in a house with a north as¬ 
pect, moving them into the conservatory to 
flower. Of course, the hardier the plants are 
grown as regards ventilating, the better will 
they endure dry afterchanges. The flower 
spikes should be supported with light sticks. 
They are so beautiful, and so distinct from all 
other plants, they are worth some trouble to 
obtain in the best possible condition. Cool¬ 
ness and dampness are the chief requisites, 
and under such conditions insects are not 
troublesome, but if green fly appears, fumigate 
in moderation at once, and repeat if necessary. 
Liquid manure should be given frequently as 
soon as the flower spikes show. To save seed, 
gather the best plants together, and use the 
camel 8 -hair pencil at frequent intervals. With¬ 
out a little help, the seed crop will be scanty. 

E. Hobday. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 

(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

1063.1.— Manuring poor soil.— Provided 
you have a sufficient depth of good soil, you can¬ 
not do better than trench the garden as sug¬ 
gested. Should the bottom spit of soil, how¬ 
ever, be strong, or of an inferior description, the 
better plan would be to bastard trench it. This 
differs from trenching proper only in leaving the 
bottom spit in its original position, merely dig¬ 
ging it over, after first shovelling in, to the 
width of the next trench, all weeds from the 
surface, which will thus be effectually buried. 
Any vegetable refuse or other available manure 
may also be worked in at the same time. The 
benefits derivable from salt as a manure are by 
many considered vague and uncertain; but as 
salt possesses a strong attraction for moisture, it 
may be of service to a light, dry soil It should 
be sown at the rate of rather less than half-a- 
peck per square rod, though many people prefer 
using it in composts of earths and dungs, and 
experience has proved this to be the better mode 
of application. First enrich the soil with animal 
manures, and afterwards chemical manures may 
be occasionally used with advantage, but the 
application of these now would stimulate the 
soil for a season and then leave it much poorer 
than before. The best dressing that you can 
apply is a mixture of cow or pig manure and 
marl in equal quantities. These should be well 
mixed by repeated turnings, and sufficient salt 
added to equal the proportion given above, when 
the compost is laid on at the rate of from six to 
eight barrowloads per rod. Applied in March and 
dug in, this dressing will be found more lasting 
in its effects than stable manure, although the 
latter may, of course, be used if more readily 
obtainable, but it will tend to still further 
lighten the soil. In manuring light land, pre¬ 
ference should be given to those substances that 
have a tendency to consolidate and give cohesion 
to the soil. A dressing of good clay—clays vary 
much in quality—would be of great service if 
spread on the land after trenching and left to 
the pulverising influence of the winter, and then 
well ncorporated with the surface soil by means 


of the “ cultivator ” or an ordinary steel fork.— 
J. Martin. 

10726.— Making an Asparagus bed.- 

The piece of ground intended lor the Asparagus 
bed should now be trenched three spades deep, 
but do not go so deep as to turn up the bad sub¬ 
soil. Mix plenty of well-made manure in while 
trenching, also sea-weed if procurable. If the 
ground is stiff, plenty of sand should be mixed 
among the soil when digging—sea-sand, if it 
can be got, as Asparagus likes a soil with saline 
matter iu it. Lay the soil up in ridges all the 
winter to let the frost pulverise it, and plant in 
April. Level the ground, and make the bed 
5 feet wide; if more than one bed, a 2-feet alley 
should be left between the beds ; in a 5-feet bed 
plant three lines—one in the middle and one on 
each side—1 ft. from the edge of the bed, and plant 
18 inches apart between the plants. If you want 
a smaller bed, you may make one 3 feet wide, 
and plant two lines in it. When the bed is all 
marked off and ready to plant, stretch a line 
and take out a trench deep enough to let the 
roots in without doubling them, spread them 
out evenly, and when covered up, the crowns 
should be about l.j inches below the surface. 
Care should be taken not to let the roots get 
dried up when planting, and plant when the soil 
is in good working condition. Plants two 
years old are the best to plant. You may also 
sow seed and thin out afterwards to the required 
distance when the plants are about 2 inches 
high. Sow thinly in shallow drills, and cover 
with half an inch of soil.— J. Robertson. 

10691.— Ixias and Sparaxis in win¬ 
dows.—January was too late to pot them, as 
they, in common with all bulbous plants which 
flower in spring, should be well established by 
early spring. The proper treatment is to shake 
out all the old soil in September, and put about 
eight good bulbs in a 4.1-inch pot, giving good 
drainage, and using good free sandy soil. Pot 
firmly, and water sufficiently to moisten the com¬ 
post through. Then if you have no frame, stand 
the pots in some sheltered place, putting a piece 
of tile or something over the pot to keep the 
soil from being drenched with rain, at the same 
time not allowing it to become quite dry. About 
the middle of November put them in the win¬ 
dow of a room where fire is seldom made as they 
cannot bear warmth, and it does not matter 
about frost getting at them,they being perfectly 
hardy. Give them as much air as possible, es¬ 
pecially in spring, never in any way coddling 
them, and they will make strong growth and 
bloom well.—J. Cobnhill, Byfleet. 

10587 — Worms in lawns.— A light, sow¬ 
ing of agricultural salt will keep down worms 
for a time, as also will a dressing of charcoal 
dust or fine coal ashes. But you have yourself 
invited the worms by placing a layer of manure 
beneath the turf. The layer of good soil would 
have been sufficient without the manure, and if 
a thin coat of charcoal-dust had been placed 
immediately under the turf, the worms would 
have caused you little trouble. In forming a 
lawn it is as great a mistake to make the foil 
very rich as in leaving it too poor, as by encour¬ 
aging a rank growth the coarser grasses spread 
and predominate, and thus crowd the finer herb¬ 
age out of existence. All that is required is just 
a sufficient richness of soil to produce a healthy 
looking turf, as top-dressings of bone-dust or 
other manures can be readily applied when it 
appears necessary.—J. Martin. 

10718. —Best Chrysanthemums. — Of 

incurved or Chinese varieties, you should grow 
Angelina, Barbara, Empress of India, Jardin des 
Plantes, Mrs. Dixon, Mrs. George Bundle, Prin¬ 
cess Teck, Princess of Wales, Princo of Wales 
Queen of England, Refulgence, Bir Stafford 
Carey, Venus, and White Queen of England. 
Of Japanese, P»eaut6 de Toulouse, Boole d’Or, 
Baronne de Prailley, Chinaman, Comte de Ger¬ 
many, Criterion, James Salter, La France, Lady 
Selborne, Madame C. Andiguier, Peter the Great, 
Fair Maid of Guernsey, and Elaine. Amongst 
what are termed refiexed flowers, King of Crim¬ 
sons, Crimson Velvet, and Julie Lagravere are 
very desirable.—J. D. E. 

10693.— Plants injured by manure 

water:—The water was undoubtedly much too 
strong for the Strawberries, but as Roses are 
very strong-rooted, it may not have injured them, 
j The leaves would now be falling from natural 
causes. But it was altogether wrong to use 



Dec. 15, 1883.] 


GARDJSJVIJVQ ILLUSTRATED 


473 


liquid manure at this time of year, especially 
for Strawberries and Roses, which are at com¬ 
plete rest. Never use liquid manure unle?s 
plants are in full growth, and when the days are 
long and the light strong, and take care that the 
water is only coloured ; little and often is the 
rule in using liquid manure. Removing the 
sarface soil of the pot Strawberries will not 
prevent them fruiting, but it will do no good, and 
is likely to destroy some roots. All you can do 
is to water carefully with clear water, and only 
when dry, and the plants will probably recover. 
—J. C. B. 

-You have, undoubtedly, seriously injured 

your Strawberries and Roses. The Strawberries 
will not fruit; the lioaes may be brought round 
by placing them in a gentle heat, and not giving 
them too much water.— Rock Ferry. 


10GD9 — Heating greenhouaes.—A slow 
combustion stove without piping would be more 
economical than the existing flue; but I think 
a hot-water apparatus preferable to either. With 
regard to the expense of working small hot-water 
boilers, I have ju9t made a careful experiment 
with one, and tind that a quarter of a hundred¬ 
weight (28 pounds) of broken anthracite i9 
sufficient, with ordinary 3toking, to keep up a 
steady heat for four days continuously, leaving 
the fire at the end of the experiment in the same 
condition as it was at the beginning, viz., about 
three parts full of incandescent fuel. Taking 
the cost of fuel as 25s. a ton, which is the 
present price in London, this comes to 3Jd. for 
ihe four days working, or G.jd. a week—9ay Id. 
per diem. In districts where fael is cheaper 
than in London, the expense will, of course, be 
proportionately less. I feel satisfied, therefore, 
that this is the cheapest method of heating that 
can be adopted.—K., Hornsey . 

-I have tried several stoves inside my 

greenhouse, none of which answered. The trouble 
and expense made me give up artificial heating 
altogether.— Amateur. 

1071(5 —Blowing up tree stumps.— It 
is possible to use dynamite for blowing up Elms. 
I believe quarrymen prefer it to gunpowder ; its 
force is much greater than that of powder. It 
is fired by means of a detonator, the detonator 
being worked either by a small charge of pow¬ 
der or electricity. It may or it may not be used 
with safety by unskilled operators. I would not 
like to say till after the operation. If you are an 
ignoramus in the art of blasting, I would advise 
you to employ skilled labour, or it might be 
necessary for your relatives and friends to 
forego their ordinary vocations for a day or two 
and institute a search for you, the result of said 
search in all probability being nil. —Rock Ferry. 

- Dynamite is an excellent means of grub¬ 
bing up roots. Messrs. Nobel, 149, West George 
Street, Glasgow, who sell it, give every informa¬ 
tion how to apply it. It freezes at 40 Fahr., so 
in cold weather must be thawed in warm water¬ 
heating cans. It is perfectly safe, much more 
powerful than gunpowder, and will explode 
under water. It varies from Is. to 2s. a pound. 
—Stbetton. 


10709.— Water plants. —I should say that 
the present is as good a time to plant as any. I 
wrap the roots |up in brown paper with a stone 
to sink them, and a little leaf-mould round the 
roots. I should think that any owner of a large 
pool near would give you leave to take a few 
plants, otherwise Mr. King, 165, Great Portland 
Street, London, or Mr. Armistead, Troutdale 
Fisheries, Dumfries, would supply you—not only 
with plants, but any kind of fish. I should 
suggest White Water Lilies, which purify the 
water more than any other plant; and I should 
pat in a dozen carp, tench, and trout. If you 
feed them daily, they will eat out of your hand, 
and be a source of amusement as well as profit. 
-Stbetton. 

10725.— Apples speckled— rrobably the 

I soil is poor, as well as the trees being old; the 
ground may also be undrained. I would say, 
drain the ground if it is necessary; also dig a 
trench round the tree at the distance of 5 feet or 
feet from the bole. Work some of the old 
^oil from amongst the roots, and any roots that 
zo straight down into the subsoil should be cut 
hroagh. The exhausted soil that is dug out 
Vioald be replaced by some frerii maiden loam ; 
sRer this is done, place a bar?bwload or twb of 
pod manure over the snrf^ce.j-^jD. 1.0 | ^ 


10722.— Destroying greenfly— Soft soap, 
dissolved in hot water at the rate of from 2 oz. 
to 4 oz. to the gallon, is a good insecticide, but 
it is not quite safe in inexperienced hands. For 
plants under glass the safest insecticide is 
Tobacco powder, which is sold in tin canisters 
at Is. each. This is used with a muslin bag, 
dusting the infected parts, and allowing the 
powder to remain on. Greenfly will not remain, 
indeed cannot live, where this is employed, and 
we strongly urge you not to use anything else. 
—J. C. B. 

-Gently fumigate two or three nights 

in succession. Let the foliage be dry. Do 
not Allow the Tobacco-paper to blaze. Do 
not give any more air than you can possibly 
help for a day or two after the operation, as it 
assists any that are sickly to recover from the 
effects of their * 4 first smoke.”— Rock Ferry. 

10708. — Propagating Chrysanthe¬ 
mums.—Propagate Chrysanthemums now, or as 
soon as you can get the cuttings. Take the cut¬ 
tings when about 3 inches long, and try and get 
them off with a heel. Insert three or four in a 
2 Kinchpot in a mixture of sifted loam,leaf-mould, 
and sand. Place the pots on a bottom of ashes 
in a cool house. They will root better with hand 
glasses over them, but care must be taken not 
to let them damp off. Take off the glasses 
occasionally to let out moisture, and wipe the in¬ 
side of the glass with a cloth before putting it 
over them again.— J. Robertson. 

10729.— Refuse as manure.—I have a 
large garden, much of which is grass; forest 
trees round. The short mown grass (mown 
weekly in the season) and the leaves which are 
swept np, and all other vegetable refuse, 
such as dead annuals, are deposited in a roofless 
hut, and by next season are quite decom¬ 
posed. The mixture is dug into the beds and 
shrubbery. We have had no other manure for 
years. If the heap were turned over and some 
lime added it would be still better.— Vera. 

-Keep a pig or rabbits; if you cannot 

manage that, [mix it well and let it rot, 
if you burn it, on no account let the fire grow 
into a blaze, or it burns the heart out, and you 
have only a handful of ashes; if you smother it 
in with clods, as charcoal-burners do, you get a 
charred residuum, whichiis three or four times the 
bulk, and much more effective as a manure.— 
Stretton. 

10705.— Ferns In windows.— You will 
succeed in keeping the Ferns if you give them 
air at intervals by removing the glass for an 
hour or so when it becomes saturated with con¬ 
densation, wiping it before it is replaced. If 
no fire or sun, very little water will be needed. 
If the soil is once moist, it will keep so for 
weeks. Water the Ferns in the pot when 
the soil feels nearly to have lost its moistness. 
If tender, throw a newspaper over in case of 
frost.—R ock Ferry. 

10708.—Propagating Chrysanthemums.—Now 
is as pood a time as any to put in the cuttings, and if a 
choice can ho made, take the Bhoots that grow up as 
suckers at a little distance from the stems, Hand-glasses 
ought to be placed over the cuttings, or they may be 
placed in a cold frame, which should be kept rather 
close. It is best to put a cutting in the centre of a small 
pot.—J. D. K. 

10668.—Plants In halls.— “ Cumberland Lassie” 
will be able to keep her Latania borbonica and Nephro- 
lepai exaltata, undulatum, or any of the greenhouse 
kinds, also the Draao&a, If it be australis congests, or 
one of that class. She may make and keep her hall attrac¬ 
tive by a.few hardy British Ferns and shrubs, such as 
Euonymuses, Ac., at a trifling cost, and they will stand 
much hardship.— Rock Ferry. 

10G80.—Kainit.—This consists largely of sulphuric 
acid and potash. It is used for fixing ammonia in farm¬ 
yard manure (the sulphuric acid effects this), and its 
potash becomes a nitrato or a carbonate of potash. I 
canuot speak of its individual power as a fertiliser. I 
should say any artificial manure maker in London would 
have it.— Bock Jerry. 

1CC98.—Chinese Pmonies.—It would not be advis¬ 
able to try these under glass or in pots. They are qu to 
hardy, and should grow in moBt gardens. Plant now or 
in spring in a free rich soil, well drained, and in a sunny 
position. You should not disturb them much by moving 
from one place to another, if you fc want to be successful. 
J. Robertson. 

10703.—Climbers for unheated greenhouse.— 
You could not do better than plant some of the more 
free-flowering varieties of Tea Roses on the two side 
walls. They are so sweet, and would be sure to give you 
satisfaction. Make up a border of good turfy loam with 
some good rotten manure mixed among it, and plant 
now.— J. Robertson. j 

-“ J. II.” will have a nice collection of climbers by 

planting the following Acacia ulicina, Tecoma splen. 
dens, Passillora Campbell! (scarlet), Kennedy* bimacu. 


lata (blue!, K. lubicunda (crimson), and Clematis 
indivisa lobata.—R ock Ferry. 

10720.—Utilising garden refuse.—The best way 
to utilise gardeu refuse as manure is to get a cartload of 
fresh dung and mix it with the refuse, and let it lie and 
heat, turning it once a week for three weeks. This pro¬ 
cess will turn Docks, Lily, Couch, hedge trimmings—if 
the hedge be cut twice a year—all Into good manure.— 
It. W. 

10731.—Destroying Whin.—Whin will burn well 
in the autumn, leaving some hard stumps, out of which 
thatch pegs can be cut or firewood. The young shoots 
appeal ing next spring can be grubbed out or ploughed 
with a strong plough. The young shoots are said to be 
excellent for cows, giving a richness to the milk and 
butter.—S tretton. 

10721.—Propagating Indiarubbar plants.— 
Cuttings of these are easily rooted in a case in sharp 
bottom-heat, in a mixture three parts sand to one of 
loam. Air and water given as required. February is a 
good month to stake them. I have seen them rooted in 
a bottle of water placed on a warm pipe.—Rocs Ferry. 

10702.—Pyrethruma, Anemones, and Scabious. 
—Keep them in the frame all the winter, giving plenty of 
air. In March, prick the young plants out in well- 
stirred soil, watering them in dry weather. Keep just 
moist through the winter.—J. C. B. 

10089. — Coal dust for gardens.— Coal shnk 
possesses no fertilising properties, but may be usefully 
employed on heavy laud as a mechanical agent In modi¬ 
fying and opening the soil, and thus rendering it more 
easily workable.—F. Martin. 

10713.—Fruit trees on lawn.—The best pyramid 
Pears would be Louise Bounc of Jersey and Doyenne Uu 
Cornice. Red Currants, Ruby Castle and Red Dutch. 
Black Currants, Black Naples and Lee’s Prolific.—J. D. E. 

10690. —Hyacinths.— When the pots are tolerably 
well filled with roots and the crowns have pushed about 
an inch, the change should be gradual until they assume 
a deeper shade of green, when they should have all the 
light possible.—B rixton Amateur. 

10715.—Thuja Lobbl for hedges.— This tree is 
admirably adapted or hedges near a town, and can be 
cut to any form. Fine plants can be got at 18a. per 
dozen.—H. M. F. 

10652.— Plantains on lawns.— Weeding them out 
with a knife, or some other sharp instrument, is the only 
effectual remedy.—J. Martin. 


G. II. B.— Seakale plants can be got at any good 
nursery, and they are also frequently advertised in our 

columns.- Omega.— Lift the plants and put them in a 

warm greenhouse, covering the roots with soil. Keep 
rather dry. Tow.—Not gardening. J. U.—'* Hob¬ 
day's “ Cottage Gardening." Published by Geor e Rout- 
ledge and Sons, Ludgate Circus. 

C. Shan.—We have seen good Tuberoses grown in the 
open air near London, but such results are not often 

attained.- Captain K. H. B.— Gillingham a Heat 

Radiator or the Syphon Stove would probably answer 
your purpose. 

Names of plants.— Tidmarsh.— Next week.- J 

Wy. T. —Rhodochiton volubile (greenhouse). The Palm 

cannot be named from the specimen sent.- Brookland. 

—Lucombe Oak (Quercua Cerrls Lucombeana).-C. 

Shan. —Caunot name from such a scrap. It seems to be 

a hardy Conifer.- St. Kildas. —2, Aspidium angulare ; 

4, Tradescantia zebrina. Cannot name others from leaves 

only.- Selina. —Golden-leaved Elder is Sambucusnlgra 

aurea. Send other plant when in flower.- R. Thomas. 

—1, Pterls cretica albo-llneata; 2, Adiantum cune&tum ; 

3, Adiantum hispidulum ; 4. Tradescantia reptans.- 

P. A. Stoll.— Chrysanthemum segetum.- Page — 1, 

Adiantum hispidulum ; 2, Onychlum nureum ; 3. Pterls 

cretica; 4, Araucaria excelsa.- Miss P Millbrook .— 

Leucophyton Brownei (Australia); Francises confertl- 

flora. Strike cuttings In spring in stove.- T. Clack .— 

Echeveria metallica.-C. D. Combe. —Rhus Cotlnus. 

- J. Full. —1, DiefFenbachla BauBoi ; 2, D. imperator ; 

3, Maxillaria picta; 4, Gesnera fulgens. C. S.— Lyco¬ 
podium squarrosum.- H. Uislop.— Schlzostylls coc- 

cinea.- C. Samoht, —Schlzostylls coccinea, from Caff- 

raria. 


QUERIES. 


Rules fbr Correspondents.—AW communica¬ 
tions /or insertion should be clearly and concisely xcritten 
on one side qf the paper only and addressed to the Editor. 
Letters relating to business to the Publisher. The name 
and address qf the sender u> required , in addition to any 
nom do plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title qf the Query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece qf paper. Outing to the necessity qf 
Gardening goimj to press a considerable time before the 
day qf publication, it is not pos.nble to insert queries and 
communications the. week they are received. Queries not 
ansiocred should be sent to us again. 

Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only 
can be named at one time , and this only when good 
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to nams 
varieties qf florists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums , 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
specialist ivho has the means qf comparison at hand. Any 
communication respecting plants or flowers sent to nams 
should always accompany the parcel. 

10769.—Cutting Vine roots.—I should be g!al of 
h little information about cutting Vine roots. The 
border is 8 feet wide, with a path adjoining It, and la 
rather wet. so I propose diggings trench and Idling it up 
with rough stuff, but jthe roots of the Grape Vines run 
through under the path an unknown distance. There is 
one root about 1 inch in diameter 8 feet away from the 
house. The Vines are planted inside, and are 14 feet 
long, and I should think about twelve or fourteen years 
old with good sized rods, but the fiuit is subject to 



474 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Dbc. 15, 1883. 


shanking when colouring. How close would it be safe to 
dig the trench from the house, and would the plan pro¬ 
posed answer ? If not, I should like to know what would ? 
—Amateur. 

10760.—Gold lean-to greenhouse.— I have a back 
wall 21 feet long by 7£ feet high, and a front wall 1J feet 
high, which was prepared for glaring and never done; 
width from back to front 15 feet. I want to know what 
fall is requisite, for I should like to raise the front about 
1 loot or lj feet. I am told that under such circumstances 
nothing will grow in the house, but it seems to me as 
much fall as a frame has. Having tho back and front brick¬ 
work, I am anxious to use it by putting up a glasshouse 
after the bast and yet economical manner, so shall bo 
thankful for hints and advice. If I can get it up, I shall 
then ask how to arrange It. One man ofrers to do the 
work, it I do the side brickwork, for £45 .—New CROSS. 

10761.—Cauliflowers failing-.—During the past 
summer, many of the Caulifl >wer plants, on attaining I 
moderate size or near flowering, have ceased growing, 
and then faded dowu instead ol flowering. On taking 
them up and examining the root, there was always a 
small grub about quarter of an inch long at the end of 
the root. Is there any dressing to apply to the ground 
when it Is thrown up for the winter, that will remove the 
grubs? I am only a novice at garden cultivation, and 
shall be glad of any hints to improve my crop of Cauli¬ 
flowers for next year.—J ohn Wood. 

10762.—Making a fernery.—I wish to put up a 
fernery in my garden, and shall be glad if any reader 
will give me any hints on the subject. I intend to build 
it on a corner of my lawn backed by a sloping bank 
thickly planted with shrubs. I have plenty of stone 
available, but no logs or stumps of trees. Further, I 
shall be glad of information as to the best tfay of raising 
British or other hardy Ferns from seed when no green¬ 
house or hothouse is available. —Broadwater. 

10703.—Dwarf Chrysanthemums.—What ia the 
beat plan to grow Chrysanthemums dwarf; to frequently 
cut hack, or to make several repottings, and does the 
former injure the size of the flowers ? Mine are blooming 
splendidly, but are 4 feet high and upwards, and incon¬ 
venient to manage. Some were cut back early, and all 
kept outdoors till September. Those in the ground out¬ 
doors are even higher.—W. 

10704.—Lilium Thunbergianum.—How shall I 
treat Lilium Thunbergianum ? I have planted two bulbs 
in a 45-inch pot, and plunged them in Band in a box in 
the area—north side Should I leave them there till the 
shoots come above the soil, or put them on the south 
side out of-doors, or under glass ? Any hints about treat¬ 
ment of Chionodoxa lucilia> will also oblige.—L. D. 

10765.—'The Polyanthus.—I have read with intercs 
the two articles from Mr. Douglas on the Auricula, 
which have lately appeared In Gardening, and now if 
he will kindly gtve us another article on the ^Polyanthus, 
its general culture, proper time and mode of pottiug, 
with a definition of the flower, as he has done in the case 
of the Auricula, I, aB well as several of my friends, 8hall 
feel greatly obliged to him.— Polyanthus. 

10766.—Supply cistern for boiler.—Will any 
reader kindly inform me of what size the supply 
cistern should be, and how high above the hot-water pipe 
it should be fixed, the size of pipe that should be used to 
connect the cistern with the hot-water pipes, and the 
size and height of the air pipe, for 75 feet of 3$ inch pipes ? 
—Rajoe. 

10767.— Hopbines round fruit trees.— Visiting in 
East Sussex recently, I found that old trees In some 
orchards were surrounded at the base, to a distance of 
about C feet from the stem, with old hopbines. Has this 
treatment any beneficial effect upon the trees by stimu¬ 
lating root action, or in any other way ?—Barham 
House. 

10768.— Ivy-leaf Geraniums.—I have a fine plant, 
■double pink, in 7-inch pot, trained on wires to wall; plant 
is 5 feet high and 3 feet broad, finished blooming first, 
week in November, now showing fresh shoots at every 
joint. Should it be cut hack now, or left till spring, or 
left alono altogether ? It is too large for present place.— 
Brixton Amateur. 

10769.— Grevillea logic g its leaves—My Gre- 
villea robuata is losing its leaves. The roots are well 
through at the bottom of the pot. Should l repot it at 
once, and if so, in what soil ? Any hints as to treatment 
■will oblige. My greenhouse is unheated, frost being 
kept out.—L. D. 

10770.—Ferns in a window.—I should be much 
obliged if someone would tell me what Ferns or other 
plants I could grow in a sitting-room, where there is a 
fire constantly, but no gas burnt? The window faces 
west in an airy part of London.—E. 

10771.—Carnations and Picotees.—Wanted to 
know the names of two or three of the best good old 
sorts of bizarre Carnations of the different bizarreB ; the 
samo of flake Carnations of the different flakes ; and the 
same of white-ground Picotees of tho different lacings.— 
J. W. 

10772.—Rocbea falcata.—Will someone kindly 
give me some advice about my plant of Rochea falcata, 
which durin« the two years I have had it has never 
flowered? What treatment, soil. Ac., does it require? 
The plant looks healthy and well, and is kept in a green¬ 
house with moderate heat.—K. M. J. 

10773.—Begonias. — |I have a Begonia that bore 
large red flowers; it was at its best in August, but now 
appears dead, or nearly so. I should be glad to know 
what is the best treatment for it during the next few 
months.— Bella. 

10774.—Pruning Gloire de Dijon Rose.—I have 
a strong grown plant of this Rose in warm greenhouse ; 
when and how should it be pruned ? There ia a quantity 
of small side growth,which seems weak and unhealthy.— 
New Crop. 

10775.— CallaiEthiopica In windows.—Could I 
grow this Lily in a pot in an ordinary liying room ? Will 
someone tell what /is the prope r soil lor it, time for 
planting, Ac.?—Visit | Q 


10776.—Evergreens for screens.—What ever¬ 
green shrubs grow fast to form a high screen, and what 
kinds grow best under Limes and Elms already large ?— 
LAC LEMAN. 

15777.—Show Tulips.—Has It ever been proved that 
covering Tulips has been of the slightest benefit to them ? 
of any grower can tell mo, I Bhail be mnch obliged.— 
J. O. 

10778.— Striking? Rose cuttings in water.— Will 
someone kindly give directions for striking Roses in 
bottles of water, saying what kinds succeed best, and 
when they may bo planted out ?—Sunflower. 

I077p.— Treatment of Poinsettias. — What is 
the best treatment for a Poinsettia when the lower leaves 
are turning yellow and drooping ? Is it possible to get it 
to bloom tliis season ? The bud, I presume, does not 
increase. It is now in an average heat of 50 w .—BELLA. 

10780.—Uae of old mortar.—Can any reader tell 
me if I can utilise in a flower garden, some old plaster 
and mortar left in tho house when done up, with dust bin 
refuse? Would it be of any use if I mixed some stable 
refuse with it ?—F. R. 

10781.—Climber for north wall.—I have a bare 
wall in my garden 00 feet long, faciug north. Would 
Ampelopsis Veitchi be a suitable creeper to cover it 
quickly, and what time of the year should it be planted ? 
—J. B. 

10782.— Saxlf raga sarmentoea.—I would be glad 
of a few hiuts upon management, blooming, and propa¬ 
gation of this plant, commonly called Mother of 
Thousands.— brlyton Amateur. 

10783.— Planting Larch.—What is the best time for 
planting Larch, ana what Is the best age for the Larch 
trees ; also when is the time to plant common Poplar— 
these to protect the Larch ?—A. CLARK. 

10784.— Be9t Pelargoniums and Fuchsias — 
I should be much obliged for the names of twelve best 
show Pelargoniums, likewise the best six Fuchsias?— 
W. M. 

107S5.—Transplanting Carnations.—When ia 
the best time for transplanting Blips of Carnations and 
Picodees ?—M. C. 

1Q3.'86.—Capo Gooseberries.—I shaU be glad for 
any .Information about the growing of Cape Gooseberries 
—how they are to be procured, <fcc.— R. F. R. 

10737.—Transplanting Box.—Is the present a 
suitable time for transplanting a Box tree about seven 
or eight years' growth ?— Blandford. 

1078 S.—Show and fancy Pansies.—Wanted to 
know how to distinguish fancy Pansies from show ones? 
—J. V T. 

107$ .9.—Improving damp soil.—Can anyone tell 
me w'nat ia the best thing to mix with the soil of a 
garden that is rather damp ?—X. Y. Z. 

10790.—Planting Apple tree cuttings.— Will 
Mr. Groom say when is the proper time to plant Apple 
tree cuttings, and of what size they should be ?—B. S. 

10791.—Cuttings of Chrysanthemums.—Are not 
rooted offshoots of Chrysanthemums as good os cuttings ? 
—VKJAR. 

10792 — Soapsuds and Roses— Is it right to put 
soapsuds on Rose trees at this season of the year ?— 
White Rose. 

10793— Coleuses.— What heat is required for Coleus, 
and what soil ? I have several; some cut down, some 
cuttings, but nearly all look miserable.— Bella. 

10794.—Best Pansies.—Will any reader kindly name 
■what they consider the beat thirty- six Pansies (not for 
show purposes) ?—PERCY. 

10795.— Grafting Apple and Pear trees.— How 
ore Apple and Pear trees grafted?—,!. N. 

10796.—Making a Mushroom bed.—Will some¬ 
one tell me how to make a Mushroo m bed ?—FUNGUS. 


POUI/TRV. 

Poultry at the Oryete .1 Palace.— Per¬ 
haps no fact will go farther to illustrate the 
gigantic strides which poultry shows, as well as 
poultry keeping, have made in popular favour 
of late years, than the Crysta l Palace show of 
1883. Fifteen years ago a f« w amateurs com¬ 
bined and held an exhibition of the various 
breeds of poultry in one of the small dining 
halls at the Palace. Since the n it has been an 
annual affair, and has so t ir increased that 
the number of pens exceeds 6,000 (including 
pigeons), and the rows of birds; on exhibition are 
about two miles in length. This is a collection 
of fancy poultry with a venge ance, both useful 
and ornamental, and, moreove r, there is not only 
quantity, but quality. There w ere two classes for 
table fowl, one for pure-bred ft iwls and the other 
for cross-breeds. There were twenty-three 
entries. The winners in the first-mentioned were 
a very fine pair of coloured Dorkings, showing 
excellent quality of flesh, with plenty of breast. 
In the cross-bred specimens, the silver cup was 
awarded to a pair of cockerels bred from a Game 
cook and coloured Dorking hen, and were 
decidedly the finest on show, bein^r large, shapely 
birds, with fine bone. Strange to say, the 
second prize went to a pair bred the re¬ 
verse way, but they did not show such good 
quality as the first and cup birds. The third 
prize fell to a pair produced from a Dorking 


cock and a Bramah-Dorking hen. Thus it will 
be seen that the Dorking entered into all the 
prizes, and tends to show that, either crossed or 
pure, there is no better table fowl than this 
breed. There is no doubt but what a cross 
with the Game gives small bone and quality of 
flesh. There were no less than 400 or more pens 
of Bramahs, light and dark, many of which 
were very grand specimens indeed. The Hou- 
dans were very striking, and showed great size, 
as well as correct markings. This breed is as 
good as any for a good all-round bird, combining 
laying with table qualities. The geese and 
turkeys were a sight to see, most of them being 
enormous birds. Likewise the ducks, including 
Kouens, Pekins, Aylesburys, East Indians, and 
fancy kinds, such as Mandarins and Muscovies, 
presented a grand show. The pens were all 
kept very clean, the floors of those devoted to 
flowls being well sanded, while the ducks re¬ 
ceived a liberal supply of clean straw. Plenty 
of chopped grass was given, and appeared 
to be greatly relished by the birds. Spratt’s food 
was used entirely for feeding.— Andalusian. 


Ducke as slug destroyers.— In Gar¬ 
dening of November 24 “L. C. K..” expresses an 
opinion that ducks will not eat slugs if allowed 
their liberty, so that they can seek other food, 
I can only say that my experience is quite at 
variance with this. A pair of call-ducks and 
their brood of ducklings almost cleared my 
garden of slugs this season, although previously 
they were a perfect plague. They used to 
wander systematically all over the garden, 
poking their bills under dwarf plants, and 
among fallen leaves, &c., evidently seeking and 
finding slugs. I have now no call ducks, but 
three East Indians, and upon reading your cor¬ 
respondent's letter I sought up, with some trouble, 
about half-a-dozen slugs, which I threw to the 
ducks, and which were at once “gobbled up." 
To-day, again, I came across (in the houses) a 
couple of large “ tiger slugs” (Limax maximus:, 
each 3 inches or 4 inches in length. These I 
also threw to the ducks, and both were eaten, 
though they were evidently tough morsels. I 
remember throwing one of these slugs to the 
call-ducks in the summer, but though many tried 
it in succession they were enable to “get it 
down ; ” it was eventually eaten by a young 
Aylesbury duck, which I had for a short time 
among the others. These ducks have perfect 
liberty, never being confined in any way except 
by having one wing clipped to prevent them 
from flying away. Perhaps the difference be¬ 
tween my experience and “ L.C.K.’e ’’ may to 
some extent be explained by a difference in 
feeding. I find the ducks axe particularly fond 
of maize, and if allowed an unlimited supply of 
this they will take but little trouble to fnd 
other work for themselves. I only give them 
maize occasionally as a treat, but give them 
barley in a dish of water; this they will eat 
when hungry, but prefer worms and slogs, and 
as long as they can get these they consume but 
little grain. No doubt both ducks and fowls 
prefer earthworms to slugs (I have never known 
fowls to eat slugs), and if the worms were p 
cessively abundant, so that the ducks could live 
upon them, probably they would let the slugs 
alone. I think in “ Wright’s Poultry Book" it 
is stated (speaking of East Indian ducks) that 
they may be turned loose in a garden, and need 
not be fed at all except when the weather is 
frosty or very dry, but will keep themselves en¬ 
tirely on slugs and worms, and that, lastly, “the 
number of these they consume is truly aston¬ 
ishing.”— F. W. Stansfield. 


Salting bams.—Having seen lstely correspondence 
on salting hams, *tc., I beg to say that I have been re¬ 
commended to fill my pans with cold water at the time 
of salting. Can any reader inform me if I should b® 
right In so doing ?— DEVONSHIRE DUMPLISQ. 

Feed for horses.—Will any reader who has bad 
experience in the treatment of horses kindly inform 
me what quantity of chop, oats, bran, Ac., should be 
given to a pony thirteen hands high at each meal, and 
how many meals a day should he given ?— Jaboe. 

Tortoises.—In answer to “ Iolanthe," I wish to asy 
tortoises should be left In the garden, where they are mre 
to bury themselves tUl March, when they will come out 
again. I have bad one for sixteen years.—P. F. 

Parsnip wine. — Could any reader of GarDKS- 
ing give me a good rodpe for making Parsnip wino 1— 
Emmik. 

Stoncil cakes.--1 shonld lit glad to have a recipe 
■or making stencil cakes.— J. T. 




: t 


*5 


» 1 | 

*1 

*t; 

* 

v‘ 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. V. 


DECEMBER 22, 1883. 


No. 250. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS A. clirj •santha and A. cceruiea, which, with their 

- long, spur-like appendages and curiously formed 

H ARDY FLOWERS FOR CUTTING flowers, Tie with some of the Orchids, and quite 

As most people who have gardens are desirous to ?'} ual m:m ? , in richBess of colour and beauty, 
have as many good plants as they can for Urn , Ihcr , e ar ® also numbers of hybrid Aqmlegms, 
purpose of supplying cut flowers as well as the ,esldes ° tller , varieties, all possessing more or 
ornamentation of their borders, I now given merit and deserving a place in some part of 
brief notice of the best. Taking them in alpha- a garden. The different types of A. vulgans are 
• r- * at - r?_. a j.ay _r. a so stroncr and hardy. that thfiv will live* and hold 


betical order, the firsthand most Important are 8 ? 8tr0D K and hard 5'' that l } e i’ "^live and hold 

«■ *m <» SSI 

" C t o'" If r fS ulr ff. 03 ,h ‘;- v Shrub, or alorrg til,margins ol woodland wait* 

t#rv lirt.lA trnnh A afrpr first, srarrincr nntl wIipii ... . . P .. .. . 


,s f “' lIon 6 *£ ter first , siting, and when positions wbic g lbey hel * to enUveD> and where 
established yield a fane supply of very fine Lily- £ look . at A coerulea js uofortu . 

hkeflowersthat look dressy in vases and last Eat J e| a 2 ttle tenderi and to grow it well the 
long in water. The best place to cultivate Alstnn- lant £ roqnire i iRht soU and shelter, and even 
menas is on a sloping south border under a tb en the? gradually die away; bat as they are 
wall or house, where they should have free easily raised from seed by sovring annually,Ihere 
drainage and a deep, light, sandy soil, without is ^ difficalt in k f \ stock / a8 tbe 

wrnch the.r tuberous roots are apt to suffer and seedlings may be nursed on in beds to be 

die m the wmter. The way to prepare the border {rom * hen J manted . A .ebrysantha is a 

“ t a yard or so deep, and then throw fi at in kindi and a3 ‘ it bas cice> 

m bnckbats to fill up G inches over which brick- gof canar *. c B oloure § flowe rs, they contrast and 
oats a little litter should be strewn which will phow w ^ u against the le b / a0 of ctl , rulea 
pievent the earth running in among the drainage The wa $ t0 * Aquilegias is to sow under glass 
and filling the interstices If;the soil to be in April, and if the seed can have the benefit of 
returned is not naturally of a light and gntty a lit ‘ le warmth it wiu germinate bet ter, and the 
character, it will be necessary to make it so by lants ow ickel aQ g d str0Dger than treated 
adding leaf-mould and road scrapings or sand, * i, B j 


and if the whole is then thoroughly incorporated 
the plants are sure to do well. They may be 


any other way. 

Antirrhinums (Snapdragon) have been so 


obtained in pots at a moderately cheap rate, and improved of late as to be deserving of 

should be planted out in spring just before they extensive cultivation, and from a packet of seed 
begin to start; and that they may have their ^ eat vane ^ be obtained, as they not only 
crowns well down out of the way of frost, they [ ,rod,lc c e self-ootoured flowers but may come 
should be drooped in at least flinches below the beautifully striped or marbled and are very 
surfaoe. and to make them safe in winter it is r , ‘ easlB 8 w look on ' Io 8 el the plants to bloom 
always advisable to mulch over them with half 8he the seed . must bf ; sowni early,n 

rotten leaves after their tops are cleared off in heat, and the young seedlings pricked off as soon 
the autumn. Alstrccmerias may be easily raised a f large enough to handle, and nursed on under 
from seed, but when so obtained they do not gl ass 11 they aie sufficiently large and hardened 
flower the first year, as the tubers they make are for Planting out in the borders. Exceptionally 
not strong enough, but if sown and left without g°° d eortB tbat 18 de81 / ecl to k ® e P Bh ° uld have 
disturbance where they are to grow, it is a good cu tlE K s take f from bh . em and struck m the 
way of forming a bed that will come in the autumn and then stored in cold frames, as severe 
following season and last for an indefinite time winters often seriously injure or destroy the 
afterwards, as there seems no end to their exist- wll oleof tne P^nts. 

ence. Next to Alstrccmerias in point of useful- CAMPANULAS. —Too much cannot be said in 

ness I should place praise of these, as they make a grand display, 

Anemones.—T hese are gorgeously beautiful, “ d “°f e particularly the biennial varieties, all 
especially the large Poppy-fiowered kinds, both of which are very showy and beautiful, affording, 
double and single, which make a grand show, as they do, numerous branching stems bearing a 
and then there is the brilliant A. fulgens, which ^fusion of large bell-shaped flowers of nearly 
is almost the first thing in bloom in the open all colours. To have strong plants seed should 
ground in the spring, as it comes very early , be 80W ° in April or May, and the plants grown 
when planted anywhere in a warm sheltered ln ^good soil m any part of the garden, from 
position. To start with these Anemones, the whence they may be lifted with good balls in 
best way is to buy the tubers and plant some at autumn and transferred to positions where 
once, and another batch later on for succession. tbe ? are wanted to bloom. Among the peren- 
For.a supply during- the autumn, the plan is to n , l f‘ kmds ’ c ; Pyam.dal.s and C. pyramidalis 
sow a good large bed or border any flume in April alba tbe best ' 8ead ‘^ U P s P‘ kefi f, rom » 
or May, and if the following winter be mild the fee U, 0 6 feet high and C. \ an Houttei C per- 
plants will go on yielding bloom till the others 81cl | foha and c - turbma t a are also very desirable 
come in. Anemones like rich, light soil that has sort;s ' 

plenty of sand in it, so as to make it free and CBNTAUBBA Cyanub also makes a fine border 
open, and the beds or borders where they are plant, and is one of the most serviceable thatcan 
grown should be sheltered from wind and well be grown for catting, as the blooms are very 
exposed to tbe sun. Besides these Poppy- light and elegant in appearance, and last long in 
flowered Anemones there are the Japanese kinds, water. A mixed packet of seed will yield many 
which are equally valuable, more particularly colours besides the blue, which is the universal 
A. japonica alba, or, as it is sometimes called, favourite, as it is so rich and fine for working 
Honorine Jobert, which sends np stems from U P ' n bouquets. 

1 foot to 2 feet high, that branch freely out and The Cabnation commends itself, and the 
bear numerous blossoms. These are very large several sorts of Sweet William and Indian Pink 
and handsome, having pure white petals and a are equally valuable, the Heddewigi section of 
I well raised green conspicuous disc, surrounded the latter being very large and richly 
with rich yellow anthers, which form a fine marked, thus making a fine display in a border, 
setting, are highly ornamental, and add much to The Indian Pinks flower the same year within a 
their beauty. A japonica has just the same few months of the time of being sown, but Car- 
habit and strength, but bears rosy purple flowers, nations and Sweet Williams do not come into 
snd there is a hybrid which has blooms of a bloom till the season after, and should be sown 
ilac shade that make a pleasmg contrast when early to get strong plants. Carnations, Picotees, 
rrown or used with the others. To have fine and Pinks, may also be propagated and increased 
ilants of these Anemones they should be planted by cuttings and layers, and that is the way in 
u deep rich soil where they can stand and which choice sorts are done, 
pread without any disturbance. The way to Chbysanthemums, both annual and peren- 
Qcrease them is by division, which is best nial kinds, are indispensable where cut flowers 
fleeted in spring just as they begin to start, as are required, the one affording a continuous sup- 
ben they transplant more readily and suffer less ply during the whole of the summer, and the 
tom removal than they otherwise would do. other till quite late in the winter. To have 
Aquileoias ob Columbines are quite them at the latter season all that is necessary is 
^rivalled, especially the rjeweS - ^jad? su^hj as to lift the plants directly they have formed buds, 


and plant afresh close up to the foot of a high 
wall or sunny fence, or on borders where they 
can be protected with old lights and mats. The 
annual sorts, of which there are many, should be 
sown early and grown in good soil quite out in 
the open. 

Dahlias, though not hardy, must not lie 
omitted, as the single sorts are perfection for 
cutting, and to be without them is to lose the 
greatest ornaments anyone can have In their 
rooms. The way to raise them is to sow seed in 
heat during March, and when up the plants 
must be pricked off or potted singly, and kepi 
growing on till the end of May, when they will 
be safe planted out in the borders. 

Delphiniums are an exceedingly showy 
class of plants that no garden should be without, 
as they are very striking, especially the tall 
branching varieties like Barlowi, Belle Alliance, 
and formosum, which send up spikes from 3 feet 
to 5 feet high, crowded with their splendid blue 
and white blossoms. Delphiniums require deep, 
rich soil, and when so accommodated they 
escape mildew and last much longer in beauty. All 
the kinds may be obtained from seeds, and a 
packet of mixed seeds affords a good deal of 
variety. The best time for sowing is in April, 
as plants raised then will bloom the same year. 

Dicentba, or as it used to be called Dielytra 
speotabilis, is a lovely plant, with its spikes of 
gracefully drooping pale pink flowers, which hang 
like pendants from the arching stems, and are 
very chaste and ornamental when growing. As 
the plants are soft and succulent and come into 
bloom early, they should have a warm, sheltered 
situation and 1 ght soil, and when so cared for 
they always do well. The Dicentra speotabilis 
may be increased by division, the best time for 
which is just as it starts in the spring, as then 
the crown buds can be seen, and the most may 
be made of the stock. 

DictAMNUB Fbaxikella is a line old border 
plant, forming in good soil quite a bush, and 
sending up numerous tall spikes of curiously 
shaped flowers that give off a strong and agree¬ 
able perfume. There are two varieties of this 
Fraxinella, tbe one bearing rosy purple blooms, 
and the other white; and, although the indin- 
dualspikes may be a little too large for associating 
with others, they produce a striking effect used 
singly in vases, in which way they are seen to 
tbe greatest advantage. As seeds are very slow 
in germinating, the best way is to get plants, 
which may soon be divided by splitting them up 
right through the crowns. 

Funkias are fast becoming favourites, and de¬ 
servedly so, for they are among the most 
valuable of herbaceous subjects, and well worthy 
the popular names of Plantain Lilies, as they 
vie with the Lilies in the form and beauty of 
their flowers, and greatly outrival any Plantains 
in the highly ornamental appearance of their 
folisge, for which several of the varieties are 
exceedingly prized. The handsomest of all as 
regards leafage is F. Sieboldi, which is very 
noble looking, and in moist, shady situations 
assumes quite a bluish, metallic hue, that 
renders plants of it very conspicuous and 
distinct from anything else. Besides this fine 
large kind, there are several varities of F. ovata 
that are richly variegated, and these and the 
plaiu-leaved sort of the same are the best for 
affording cut blooms. 

Gentiana acaulis, though somewhat small, 
bears blossoms of such a lovely blue that there 
is nothing approaching it for colour, and as it 
does well in moderately stiff soils for edgings to 
walks, it should be largely used tow- that 
purpose, and if planted between large flints or 
pebbles, will they help to support it and give it 
a base. 

Geum coccineum and its semi-double 
variety are very fine things, and Bhonld have a 
place in every border, as they aro both bright 
and showy scarlets, and of great value for 
cutting. 

Heliaxthuses, even the common Sunflower, 
avc become very fashionab'e of late, but with¬ 
out going to that extreme there are several that 
may be regarded as handsome in form and rich 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Dec. 22, 1883. 


47 f> 


nnd clear in colour, chief among which are H. 
cucumerifolius, H. angustifolius, and H. rigidus, 
kinds that are very telling in vases. 

Hellebobub, or Chhistmab Kobe, is simply 
invaluable, coming into bloom as it does at this 
season when there is little or nothing else to cut 
in the open. To grow plants of it well, they 
should have a partially shaded situation, such as 
may be afforded on a border under a wall or 
building, where, if they have a deep, light soil, 
they are sure to do well. The freest blooming 
kind is H. niger, but the largest and finest is 
H niger maximus, which bears flowers nearly 3 
inches across. 

Ibises of the Flag-leaved kind are gorgeously 
beautiful, and the English and Spanish are 
almost equal to Orchids, being exquisite as re¬ 
gards their varied and delicate colours, and re¬ 
markable for the peculiar forms of their flowers. 
The first-named sorts do best in moist soil, but 
the English and Spanish require a drier medium, 
and when the bulbs are planted should have a 
little sand scattered oter them, which will pre¬ 
serve them from rotting. 

Lathybus (Sweet Teas), both annual and 
perennial, are remarkable for the profusion of 
flowers they show,the annnals affording many and 
varied colours, and the perennials rose or rosy 
purple and pure white, and from the whole 
during the summer there is no end to the gather¬ 
ing. The annual sorts should be sown at once, 
and the perennial kinds may be raised in the 
same way, or increased by division. Good soil 
and plenty of depth suit them best, and when 
so favoured they stand dry weather and afford a 
more liberal harvest of bloom. 

Lilies of all kinds are charming border plants, 
the most showy being L. auratum, and the most 
pure and chaste L. candidum, which will grow 
and flourish almost anywhere out in the open. 
For cutting and dressing vases, either singly or 
associated with anything bright, this latter is 
simply perfection, and single blooms mounted 
are of great value for working up in bouquets, 
to which they impart a fine finish. 

Stocks of the Emperor or Queen kinds, and 
also the intermediate sorts, are fine plants for 
borders and cutting, and where many flowers are 
required for the latter purpose they should be 
largely grown, as, besides their showy character 
and general adaptability, they exhale the sweet¬ 
est perfume. 

Myosotis, ob Forget-me-not, is very choice, 
the blossoms being exquisite in the softness of 
their shaded tints of blue and the epikes light 
and elegant, and just the thing when seen peep¬ 
ing out from among Eucharis or white Camellias, 
with which they blend well. The finest kinds 
are M. dissitiflora, M. sylvatica, and M. azorica, 
the two first named of which may be pulled to 
pieces or increased by means of cuttings and 
seed to any extent. 

Pentstemons are splendid border plants, and 
their fine spikes of gracefully pendent beautiful 
flowers are among the best for cutting, and last 
long in water. A packet of mixed seed of the 
best strains will yield great variety, and if sown 
in heat iu March or April the plants raised will 
flower well in the autumn. 

Pyrethbums of the large-flowered kinds, both 
single and double, are also very valuable, as 
they come in early, are large and showy, being 
quite equal in those respects to the best French 
Asters, which the double kinds in form and 
general appearance greatly resemble. 

Statices of all the different sorts are quite 
worth growing, as they are mostly of different 
shades of blue or lavender, and very light and 
elegant in appearance, which makes them of 
great use for dressing vases or for working up 
as bouquets. In a dried state they last in good 
condition for a great length of time, and as all 
they require is being freed from dust now and 
then, they are much valued as indoor plants. 

Wallflowers need only to be mentioned to 
commend themselves, as, independent of the 
gay character of their flowers, the delicious 
odour from them is such as to perfume the whole 
air of a garden. The finest kinds that can be 
had from seed are the double Rocket, or mixed 
German, and there is a single one named Har¬ 
binger that blooms late in the autumn. The 
very best doubles can only be perpetuated by 
cuttings or slips, which strike freely when the 
wood is about half ripe and put in on a shady 
border in sandy anil under hahdlights, where 
they soon emit S. D. 


SohiZOStyliB coocinea. —This beautiful 
hardy plant is still in flower out-of-doors under 
the shelter of a wall, and it is one of the plants 
that ought to receive far more attention than is 
usually the case, for not only does it begin to 
flower at a time when outdoor flowers are getting 
scarce, but it continues to send np successional 
spikes of brilliant crimson flowers for a very 
long period. I find it do best planted out, but 
it should be planted in the shelter of a wall, or 
where some temporary protection can be given 
when sharp frosts occur early in the season, for 
although the bloom spikes recover from the 
effects of very severe frost, the expanded bloom 
gets blemished, and as the spikes are exceedingly 
well adapted for cut-flower decorations they 
well repay a little attention in getting them to 
the most perfect condition. As regards culture, 
the Schizostylis is one of the easiest plants 
possible, growing freely in any fairly good gar¬ 
den soil, bHt the size of the spikes is consider¬ 
ably increased by planting in good rich soil, and 
I find that if left too long in one position the 
roots increase so fast that they starve each other, 
and the flower spikes arc Very small; but if 
transplanted every alternate year the strong 
crowns send up spikes like a miniature Gladiolus, 
with the additional advautage that they begin 


adding coloured sorts to any existing planta¬ 
tions of wild ones a new feature will be added 
of lasting interest to the woodland garden.—J. 
Groom, Gosport. 

10709— Planting water plants— There 
is no difficulty in establishing such water plants 
as Flags and Bullrushes. All that one has to dots 
to put some 0 inches of good soil at the bottom, 
and plant in it. But it is as well to observe 
that aquatics, as a rule, should not have their 
roots more than from 12 inches to 18 inches 
under the water. Naturally they grow near the 
edge, where the water is shallow, and but rarely 
in deep water. If the pond is deeper than this, 
sufficient earth should be used to make the sides 
shelve down from the edge of it to the middle, 
so as to form a hollow basin. This will give 
varying depths, and will allow of the accommo¬ 
dation of aquatics of different sizes and charac¬ 
teristics. Most nurserymen who grow hardy 
plants will supply aquatics—J. C. B. 

10G98.— PSBOniBB.— Few hardy flowers are of 
such easy culture as these, indeed they scarcely 
need cultural care, requiring only to be kept 
free from rampant weeds, and not too much 
crowded by stronger vegetation. Before 
planting, it is necessary to well stir the soil, and 



New Dwarf relargonium (F. Comtesse de Tanuberg). 


to flower just as the Gladiolus season is over, i 
and carry on the floral season to Christmas. In 
localities too far north for this lovely flower to 
succeed out-of-doors it onght to be grown freely 
as a pot plant, for there are hundreds of hot¬ 
house plants cultivated that cannot compare 
with it in beauty and usefulness.— James 
Gboom, Gosport. , 

Single Wallflowers are still in fine con¬ 
dition with ns, and amongst the sweetest of out¬ 
door,flowers. Harbinger, dark red and bright 
yellow,are onlysecond toViolets in the delicacy 
of their perfume; anyone that has not yet tried 
them as autumn or early winter flowers should 
certainly do so, for the only trouble about them 
is to sow a little seed as soon as ripe in summer, 
and let the seedlings remain in seed bed until 
the following February, when they should be 
planted out in a sheltered position, such as close 
to a wall, or under fruit trees, or bushes. They 
will begin toflower early in autumn, and continue 
more or less, according to weather, all the winter. 
A good bunch dropped carelessly into a vase 
with foliage will commend itself, not only by its 
beauty, but its fragrance, even where hothouse 
flowers are plentiful.— James Groom, Gosport. 

Primroses _The Primrose season is com¬ 

mencing as usual with the single white kind, for 
it is already well covered with bloom, and the 
singular part of this precocity is, that it does 
not appear to injure or reduce the main spring 
flowering, for the foliage is nearly hidden 
with bloom in March and April. Some of the 
Polyanthus seedlings are also flowering freely. 
As they are so readily increased by division of 
roots, or from seed, they ought to be as plentiful 
in shrubberies and under trees as autumn 
leaves. This is a good time to plant, and by 


if the plants get mulched with manure every 
winter, they will bloom better. Undisturbed 
from year to year, they will gain in strength 
and beauty with no further care.—J. 0. B. 

10751.— Pampas Grass from seed— 
This is not the proper time to sow Pampas 
Grass, or, indeed, seeds generally. It is usual 
to wait until the year turns before so doing. 
Having sown it, you will need to keep the soil 
just moist through the dull days, and if you 
have a temperature of about 60° to 66°, it will 
probably come up about the middle of February, 
otherwise it will lay dormant until fine weather 
comes in spring. The best time to sow Pampas 
Grass is in April, placing the pot in a cold 
frame, shading and keeping the soil moist nntil 
germination takes place.—J. C. B. 

A DWARF PELARGONIUM. 

PELARGONIUM C0MTES8E DE TANNBEBG. 

A decided break among the now very nnmerons 
varieties of zonal Pelargoniums has lately beeu 
madeon the Continent. The accompanying wood- 
cut admirably shows one of the varieties of this 
new type. It is said never to exceed 6-inches or 
7-inches in height. It is compact and vigorous in 
growth, and produces an abundance of flower- 
spikes, terminated by large dense dusters of 
semi-double flowers which just overtop the foliage. 
The colour of the flowers is a mottled salmon- 
pink, shaded with soft pnrple. It is a seedling 
from the variety Souvenir de Carpeaux. It can 
now doubtless be obtained at any nursery noted 
for florists’ flowers. 

Marguerites and Candytufts—Marguerite# still 
keep flowering—they are everybody's flower* , and Candy- 
tttltfi sown lale in a rnri.t r mat < a prolonged display 
when flower* out-ot-door* axe on the wane—J. Q, 


b 

I 

t-i 

'k 




Dbc. 22, 1883.) 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


477 


;| EOUBE AND WINDOW GARDENING. 

LOBELIAS FOB WINDOWS. 

Those who are likely to have any number of 
window boxes or hanging baskets to furnish for 
the summer of 1884 will do well to begin at 
once to think aboutsowing seed of blue Lobelia. 
In this way it is quite easy to get up a stock of 
nice young plants at little expense, as, being all 
but hardy, they can be raised in any light win¬ 
dow where they can be placed out of reach of 
frost; and it is a much better plan to be before¬ 
hand with such preparations than to leave 
them until the spring. For bedding-out pur¬ 
poses, the newer types, such as L. pumila mag- 
nifica, Blue Stone, and others, which form 
compact miniature bushes, are, doubtless, the 
best; but when it is desirable for the plants to 
trail, seed of the branching Lobelia (L. ramosa) 
* should be chosen rather than that of the L. 

erinus section. This is an old plant, for it was 
,. beautifully figured in Maund's “Botanist” more 
than forty years ago, seed having been sent to 
the gardens of the Royal Horticultural Society 
from Western Australia by Captain Mangles, 
who gathered it in the vicinityof the Swan river, 
but it is not now very generally grown, pro¬ 
bably on account of its lax, spreading habit, 
which makes it not so suitable for many out of 
door positions. Nevertheless, it is one of the 
most elegant of the dwarf growing Lobelias, 
and its bright blue flower?, which are larger 
than those of the ordinary bedding varieties, are 
very attractive. The branching Lobelia has 
been honourably mentioned more than once, 
within the last year or two, in gardening journals 
by Mr. Smith, of Newry, and others, and it is 
pleasant to see an old friend once more attract¬ 
ing attention. This species has always seemed 
to me to be rather impatient of drought, from 
the fact that its flowers are a little apt to curl 
•luring the heat of the day, but they re-open in 
the morning. It remains iri bloom for several 
months, and also answers remarkably v,-ell for 
■ utting, as it lasts long in water, opening Bower 
after flower for many days in succession. On 
all these accounts it may be recommended to 
those who desire a somewhat different form of 
blue Lobelia than that commonly grown. 


Sowing. 

The seeds of all Lobelias are small as dust 
grains, and a few general hints as to the sowing 
of such minute seeds may reach the needs of 
some to whom the operation is unfamiliar. The 
quality, whether rich or poor, of the compost 
used is not of great importance so that it be 
not otherwise in bad condition. Spent soil 
which has been shaken out in the repotting of 
other plants, being generally light and sandy, 
answers very well, and should be put aside iu a 
rough box and turned over now and then with a 
trowel, to be in readiness for this purpose, 
especially where there is difficulty in obtaining 
suitable earths. A shallow seed-pan of the 
smallest size will be found most convenient for 
the raising of any kind of minute seed. One 
good sized sherd to cover the hole, and a layer 
of the rougher fibrous parts of the soil, or of 
Cocoa fibre above it, will sufficiently provide for 
drainage for the short time during which the 
seedlings will remain in the seed-pan. It may 
then be nearly filled with soil, aDd after a 
thorough watering, should be put aside for an 
hoar or two to Bettle and drain. Beginners in 
gardening, almost without exception, make the 
mistake of sifting the soil they are about to use 
for potting purposes, and by so doing remove 
from it the greater part of the nutriment it 
contains. There is one occasion, however, viz., 
in the sowing of small seeds — when the sieve is 
not out of place; for though the poverty of the 
soil matters not, its texture as a rooting medium 
for the plantlets is of considerable importance. 
When about to sow the seed, therefore, it is 
allowable, and indeed best, to sift about an inch 
of fine soil, just moist enough to pass easily 
through the sieve, evenly over the surface of the 
pan. The dampness of the earth beneath will 
rise through the sifted soil, and give the requisite 
degree of moisture for the germination of the 
seeds without further watering, which is a 
troublesome process where such microscopical 
plants are concerned. The soil should be gently 
pressed down to make an even surface, for which 
purpose a flat piece of board is sometimes kept 
amongst gardening tools, but a common earthen- 
‘ ware saucer answers just as wfell, and the,pin 


then ready for the seed. Very small seeds 
should always be mixed with a little fine silver 
sand in a saucer before sowing, otherwise it is 
impossible to distribute them thinly enough, 
which is a matter of greater consequence than 
is generally supposed. The mixture can then 
be dusted over the surface of the pan through a 
piece of very coarse mnslin, or it can be taken 
between the fiuger and thumb and so be sprinkled, 
which must be done as evenly as possible. The 
seed will need no farther covering, but should be 
pressed gently into the soil. A square of glass 
placed over the pan will greatly assist germina¬ 
tion, and if the above suggestion of thoroughly 
damping the subsoil be carried out, there will 
probably be no need for watering until the plants 
are well up. The surface of the pan, however, 
must not he allowed to get dry, and if absolutely 
necessary, it may be allowed to stand in a saucer 
of water for a Bhort time. This is better 
than attempting to water overhead, which 
is apt to destroy as much as it benefits. As 
soon as the seed is sown, the pan may be set in 
a window where it will be out of danger of 
frost. It is said, but this I cannot vouch for by 
personal experience, that seeds germinate much 
more quickly and surely in the dark. The ex¬ 
periment can be tried by placing a piece of 
paper over the glass until the seeds show signs 
of springing, when it must be removed. In any 
case, if good seed be obtained the young plants 
will appear in due time; and with ordinary care 
it will be found that by the time most people 
are beginning to think about the Lobelias they 
may require for the summer, those who have 
thus taken time by the forelock will be rejoic¬ 
ing over the stock of young plants at hand 
all ready to be pricked out an inch apart each 
way, or more if space be to spare, into larger 
seed-pans. The square of glass can be removed 
altogether as the plants begin to make their 
second pair of leaves, and it should be tilted, to 
give air every day, at soon as the seedlings make 
their appearance, for if kept too close they are 
apt to damp off. One great advantage of sow¬ 
ing Lobelia or any other dust-like seed—of 
Begonia for example—very thinly, is that the 
young plants can then remain in the seed-pan 
until they arc large enough to handlo with ease. 
Many a time have I had to pay the penalty of 
careless sowing by having to choose between 
pricking out seedlings small as a pin's head, or 
to run the risk of losing the sowing altogether 
—a process so tedious that none but a very 
patient gardener could attempt it, and one that 
is wholly unnecessary if due precaution be taken. 

Another way of increasing a stock of Lobelia 
is to save an old plant or two of some favourite 
variety until March, when every top and joint 
will root freely if set as thickly as possible in a 
saucer of sand, kept constantly flooded with 
water, in the window of a warm room. As soon 
as the little bunch of roots which is quickly 
developed is strong enough, each cutting should 
be dibbled at once into a pan of well-drained 
soil, and its place taken by a fresh one. In 
this way, last spring I raised a large stock from 
one single plant; but I had the benefit of a very 
very slight bottom heat in a close propagating 
frame. A bell glass or two are most valuable ad¬ 
juncts to the fHrnitureof the indoor gardener who 
wishes to raise his own plants either by seeds or 
cuttings. The progress may be Blower without 
bottom heat, but with or without it most things 
grow in the spring, if the air about them can 
be kept moist and at an even temperature. 

Tall Hardy Lobelias. 

The seed of the tail herbaceous Lobelias, 
such as I,, fulgens and L. cardinalis, &c., may 
be raised in the same way, and are well worth 
the attention of all who love flowers, be their 
gardening opportunities great or small, for by 
one mode of cultivation or another, they can he 
adapted to suit all circumstances. Some ten 
years ago I used often to pass by a blacksmith's 
forge, where, in a sheltered corner of his tiny 
plot, grew a magnificent clump of L. cardinalis, 
which would have been an ornament to the 
grandest garden. Being a very fine variety— 
probably a good seedling which had been saved 
ont of a batch—it was not long before a bit 
from that plant found its way into my posses¬ 
sion. None too soon, however, for one day I met 
a wagon laden with household goods and chattels, 
and on the top was perched a large pot con¬ 
taining the Lobelia, carefully transplanted and 
staked for travelling. My neighbour the black¬ 


smith was flitting, bnt he did not forget to take 
with him his precious Lobelia—the glory of his 
garden. Once I saw a Sne specimen plant of 
L. fulgens in a bay window in a small provin¬ 
cial town; and notices have appeared from time 
to time of success in blooming these fine plants 
even in London balconies. But whether for 
pots or the open border, seed can be raised, if 
desired, just as easily as that of the commoner 
blue Lobelia. Herbaceous Lobelias grow natu¬ 
rally on river banks and in somewhat swampy 
places, and require abundance of water. I,, 
fulgens, a Mexican species, is the finest of all 
the group, and may be readily distinguished by 
the beautiful red-brown of its stem and foliage, 
which are covered with a greyish down. The 
vivid crimson-scarlet of its splendid spike of 
flowers is more intense, if possible, than in those 
of either L. cardinalis or L. splcndens. It is, 
perhaps, at the same time the most tender of 
the three, and certainly is more so than L. cardi¬ 
nalis, which is found as far north as Canada. 
Seedlings of any of these species mired very 
early will bloom the first year; and afterwards, 
with ordinary care, the plants will increase in 
beauty season by season if just the slightest 
protection be afforded to them. In one respect, 
the window is the safest sheltering place iu 
which they can be put., for slugs iu the early 
spriDg are enemies well nigh as dangerous as 
the most severe frost, and will demolish every 
particle of leaf within their reach in no time 
So much is this the case, that it constitutes a 
real difficulty in their cultivation. During the 
growing season. Lobelias like abundance of 
moisture, and when grown in pots, may stanil 
with advantage in saucers, which may be filled 
up every day in scorching weather, and the 
foliage may be greatly refreshed by syringing. 
Even in winter, when at rest, they should Dot be 
suffered to become very dry. The roots divide 
very easily, as each crown belongs to a separate 
plant, and a clump or a potful can be pulled 
apart without the load trouble, bometimes x< 
is convenient to grow them in small pets to pro 
duos a single spike of bloom—sometimes a large, 
deep pan may be planted with a doxen crowns 
and the effect of such a mass as this is very 
beautiful. If grown for indoor decoration, the 
pots should be set outside as often as may be, as 
the more air the plants get, the better. 

The Holly-leaved Lobelia. 

A pretty little New Zealand plant (l’ratia 
littoralis), which used to be called the Holly¬ 
leaved Lobelia, but is now drafted by botanists 
into another genus, U a charming subject for 
a hanging-pot or pan, not so much on account 
of its flowers, which closely resemble a white 
Lobelia—though these are pretty—but for the 
purplish-red capsules or fruit which succeed 
them and carry on its ornamental effect through¬ 
out the autumn and even into the winter. It 
does best grown in an ordinary seed-pan, and in 
the ease of such moisture-loving plants sis this, I 
have a saucer wired to the pot or pan and sus¬ 
pended with it. This is quite easily managed, 
and the plant succeeds admirably, saving all 
drip, which is almost always objectionable either 
in a room or in a greenhouse. The trailing 
branches of the Pratia, after clothing the surface 
of the pan with a carpet of their pretty dark- 
green leaves, travel over its edge, forming a 
drapery, which is especially charming when 
studded with its ruddy fruit. This and its near 
relative, P. angnlata—a species somewhat larger 
in all its parts—are becoming favourite plants 
for damp positions on rockeries: and are tolerably 
hardy in the open ground, though it is wiser to 
keep a store plant or two in some safe position 
to make sure of preserving them through the 
winter. If its moisture-loving propensities can 
be provided for, it is as well adapted for a win¬ 
dow plant as for any other purpose, or for sus¬ 
pending in a verandah during the summer, where 
it is pretty sure to attract attention from its; 
somewhat uncommon appearance. The first 
named of the two, P. littoralis, is rather the best 
for a hanging-pot; and, like all the Lobelias, may 
be freely increased either by seed or cuttings. 
The inroads of slogs and snails must be as care¬ 
fully guarded against as in the case of the her¬ 
baceous Lobelias. 

It may be worth while here to mention two 
rare species of this large tribe. One of the most 
beautiful of dwarf Lobelias is the Stag's Horn 
(L. coronopifolia). Like many others of this 
section, it is a native of ('ape Oolony, and its 



478 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Dbc. 22. 1883 


large bright blue flowers are borne singly on 
rather long stalks, and are somewhat drooping. 
It is altogether a handsome and distinct plant. 
Some years ago I raised a number of plants 
which I had every reason to believe were seed¬ 
lings of the true Stag’s Horn Lobelia, but they 
turned out to be another and very inferior species, 
and I have not since been able to procure the 
seed. Anyone having friends at Port Elizabeth 
or the Cape, who could obtain seed of this 
desirable plant and would distribute it, would 
confer a boon on all good gardeners. The other 
species, L. subnuda, is a distinct Mexican 
annual, which is cultivated not so much for its 
flowers as for its fine foliage. Seed of this plant 
is offered by Mr. Thompson, of Ipswich, and is 
probably now to be found in other seed cata¬ 
logues. This is comparatively a new plant, and 
is said to be found growing in shady places, 
which furnishes a hint for its cultivation. Its 
velvety leaves are so beautifully veined as to be 
considered by some growers almost to equal the 
lovely King Plant (Anceto chili) of our hothouses. 

_ K. L. D. 

A good room plant.—I doubt if any 
plant excels Draccena rubra in ability to with¬ 
stand the vitiated atmosphere of a constantly 
heated room. Cold draughts, too, it fears but 
little. Were I limited to two room plants, this 
would be one of them. The French better know 
its value than we do, an enormous quantity 
being grown by the Parisian market growers, 
but it is, I find, brooming more popular in this 
country.—J. C., Byfleet. 

10704.— Oiimbera for lobby.— A Tacsonia 
would be suitable if frost could be excluded, 
otherwise in severe winters it would get killed. 
Two good climbers for an unheated place are 
Passiflora ccerulea and Rose Niphetos. The 
former only demands the protection of a glass 
rooE to ensure its doing well, and the Rose is 
the most perpetual blooming of the Teas. Loth 
may be planted at once.—J. C. B. 


THE COMING WEEKS WORK. 

Extracts from a, Garden Diary--December 24 
to December 29. 

Putting young Pelargoniums Into their flowering pots; 
putting in Vine eyes in pit, and plunging t hem in fresh 
leaves ; putting iu another for-'ing of Strawberry plants, 
Mint, and Tarragon ; washing Stephanotis and Camellias; 
syringing Azaleas for thrips, using 5 oz. of soft soap to 
a pail of water; thinning plantations; beginning to prick 
over Asparagus land ; digging shrubbery borders ; sowing 
Radishes. Cauliflowers, and Lettuce, in orchard house : 
also sowingSyon House Cucumbers; potting a few old 
Calceolarias to make large plants for conservatory ; extra 
covering Celery ; filling up bins in pottiDg shed with 
manure, leaf-soil, and loam ; putting a layer of ashes iu 
cutting pit in which to plunge cutting pots: pruning 
bush fruits ; putting in Fuchsia cuttings and 
plunging them in pit in heat ; making edges ready for 
turf wherever the latter has got worn or died away; 
extra covering seed Potatoes ; giving large tree Miguo- 
nette a layer of manure as a top-dressing ; making a bed 
in a frame for Carrots ; getting in cow manure for Roses; 
putting in a few Petunia cuttings and plunging them in 
bottom-heat. 

Putting stock plants of seen tod Verbenas into heat for 
cutting; planting some young Gooseberry trees; also a 
bed of Peppermint; shifting Pelargoninms, placing them 
in pits, keeping them cool and dry, and giving them 
plenty of air : putting Musk into heat, and Mignonette 
on the back shelf of a cold Vinery ; looking round Hollies 
and Conifers, and dashing a little gas-tar against them to 
keep off rabbits; cutting down autumn-struck Helio¬ 
tropes, to induce them to break before potting them off ; 
pruning pillar Roses ; digging land for Onions; sowing 
Parsley ; also Sweet Peas by hedge side ; shifting Nemo- 
philas into 6-inch pots; cutting Alicante and Lady 
Downes Crapes for bottlinu; putting in cuttings of 
.fnstlcias. Chrysanthemums, and Heliotropes; also some 
White Currant cuttings ; putting Forget me-nots in heat 
and keeping them at 60-’at night; also Seakale, Asparagus, 
and Rhubarb. 

Glasshouses. 

Bedding plants —Nothing is so injurious to 
budding plants at the present season as damp; 
every possible care, therefore, must be taken to 
prevent drip from the roofs of such houses or 
pita which may contain them. All dead and 
decaying leaves, &o. must be removed whenever 
necessary, and every opportunity taken which 
the state of the weather may afford to admit 
fresh air, to render the plants as liarriy as 
possible, ('annas. Dahlias, and other plants that 
are being wintered in cool sheds or cellars should 
be occasionally examined as to their safety in 
respect of frost or of rotting through damp. As 
a rule, all roots winter safely if the temperature 
does not fall below the freezing point, and as to 
injury from damp, there never need be any 
danger of this if the plants are I vy^U packed iu 


dry leaf-soil or Cocoa fibre. Of coarse no water 
should ever be given them; the only source to 
degenerate damp would then be the decaying 
stems, and these should be removed as soon as 
perceived. Any varieties of Dahlias that it is 
intended to propagate in quantity may now be 
potted and started in gent le heat for the produc¬ 
tion of cuttings. The single varieties have lately 
become so popular that all should have a few. 
The named kinds, to be true, must of course be 
raised from cuttings, but a fine show of them 
may be had next summer from seeds if sown any 
time between this and the end of February. 
Seeds of slow-growing succulents should be sown 
at once, as also should the following, which 
make good sub-tropicals Arundo conspirna, 
Gannas, Erythrina Crista-galli, and Grevillea 
robnsta. 

Violets.—W here a continuous supply of 
these is wanted through the winter, the stock 
for the purpose requires to bo differently treated. 
Where plenty of leaves are at hand so as to make 
up beds that will give a little heat to stimulate 
root action, and to throw off enough top warmth 
to keep the frames placed over the plants at a 
genial warmth, there are few better devices by 
which these sweet-scented flowers can be had, 
as under snch conditions they usually succeed 
well. Beds of this description, not made too 
strong (if too great a body of leaves is used they 
become over-hot), should be put together at 
intervals, putting on a few inches of soil, upon 
which stand the plants, which ought to be taken 
up with good balls, liaviDg as many of their 
roots iHtact as possible, placing them as close as 
the clumps will stand, filling in the interstices 
with a little loose soil, after which water 
moderately, and give air daily proportionate with 
the warmth in the bed and the condition of the 
weather. It is an advantage to treat them in 
this way, so as to draw out the flower-stalks a 
little, which makes them more manageable in 
arranging, but if kept too warm or over-much 
confined, the stems are too weak to support the 
flowers without drooping when exposed. 

Flower Garden. 

Genebal wobk.—T hough at this season 
there is little or no work of a pressing character 
to bo done, it should be remembered that a busy 
time is coming; prospectively, therefore, every 
operation that can now be performed should be 
done, by way of relieving the pressure of duties 
in spring. Trenching, digging, and draining can 
of course be done whenever the weather is 
open, and so can the planting of shrubs and 
trees in all but the most plastic soils, and when 
inch work as this, through stress of weather, has 
to be postponed, there is the mending of coach 
roads and walks, the digging and cartiDg of 
gravel, manure, soils, not to mention the clew¬ 
ing out of shrubberies, loppiDg of irregular and 
dead branches from trees, clipping hedges, and 
trimming into form all shrubs that are required 
to develop evenness of outline. Only by thus 
seeking out, as it were, all such jobs, and doing 
them at this comparatively leisure period of the 
year, can we hope to keep pace with the work at 
the busy season. The preservation of neatness 
by rolling and sweeping both turf and walks, is 
about the only routine duty at the present time, 
but on the due performance of which, it need 
hardly be added, depends so much the real en¬ 
joyment of a garden. Get, as soon as possible, 
some manure prepared, ready to be applied to 
the flower beds and borders as soon as the spring- 
flowering plants and bulbs are removed. The 
exhibitor of florists’ flowers will have plenty to do 
in preparing his stands and boxes in which the 
stands or trays are conveyed to the exhibition ; 
they may be painted and varnished, stowing 
them away when dry where they can be kept free 
from dust. Labels may be made and painted. 
Some persons like to write on dry paint, hut wet 
is best, and the labels may be painted a second 
time before they are used. Sticks may also be pre¬ 
pared of varions lengths and thicknesses; paint 
them green, and then dry them and tie them up in 
bundles ready for use. Begs for layering Carna¬ 
tions and I’ieotees may also be out out of any 
branches that may be most convenient. Beech 
and Hornbeam are amongst the best for this 
purpose. Failing these, wire, about the diameter 
of that used for ladies’ hair-pins, answers well. 

Fruit. 

Vines —By this time the buds in the early 
house will be sufficiently forward to ad¬ 
mit of a slight advance in the day temperature. 


but no alteration must be made by night until i 
we have more genial forcing weather. Folios- i 
up the daily syringing until the bunches are well . 
advanced and all the buds aro fairly on the 
move, but avoid constant saturation of the spurs 
at this dead season, as too much moisture often 
induces weak elongated growths and loose, 
straggling bunches which rarely set properly or 
colour well, while a light, buoyant atmosphere, 
with a gentle circulation of air and moisture in 
moderation, lead to the development of stont 
leathery foliage, capable of laying up plenty of 
colouring matter, so essential to the perfect finish 
of early forced Grapes If the inside borders have 
not been watered since the house was closed, 
another nice watering with diluted liquid at the 
maximum temperature of the house may be 
given, and the borders may be well mulched 
with fresh short horse manure, which will ex- 
hale ammonia when gleams of sunshine raise the 
temperature of the house. External borders 
hitherto covered with Ferns, litter, sheets, or 
shutters, may now advantageously receive a good 
covering of moderately dry fermenting leaves 
which will set the surface roots in action ami 
draw them into the autumn surfacing of tort 
and bones ready for the performance of their 
work when the stoning and colouring processes 
draw so heavily upon tbe Vines. 

Late Vineries.—M uscats, Alicantes, and 
other G rapes will now require cutting, as they 
will keep better in the Grape room than on the 
Vines. When the Vines are cleared, get them 
pruned and cleansed; dress the cats with 
styptic, and throw the ventilators open in soil- 
able weather to give them a month's rest before 
growth is again excited. If the internal bor¬ 
ders sire not satisfactory, immediately after the 
Grapes are cut is the time, and the only time, to 
get them put right. Years ago many people 
were afraid of disturbing the roots of Vines, but 
it is now well known that external or internal 
borders may be taken out alternately, and every 
particle of the old soil may be replaced with new. 
not only without endangering the succeeding 
crop, but with the certainty that it will be 
greatly improved. Lady Downes, Mrs. i’incc, 
and that excellent Grape, Black Morocco, art 
keeping unusually well, but they had a liberal 
share of fire heat early in the spring, and they 
will hang for any reasonable length of time 
without shrivelling. If the Vines are not already 
clear of foliage, alt the leaves will be ripe enough 
for removal, and the Grapes will be in a lit con¬ 
dition for cutting and bottling by the end of 
the month. When cutting Grapes for keeping, 
always remove every doubtful berry, as the 
smallest spot is sore to end in decay. Choose a. 
bright, dry day for bottliDg; never cut away any 
of the wood beyond the bunch without applying 
styptic, and avoid disturbance of the berries in 
the removal of the bunches to the Grape room. 

Raspberries. —These should be planted; for 
this fruit the ground should be well enriched by 
digging into ita good dressingof manure previous 
to planting; existing plantations of this fro' 1 
should be pruned and tied, and, when 
stakes are used, renew such as are decayed; few 
crops more require or will better pay for a liberal 
use of manure than Raspberries. Even old plan¬ 
tations of them that have become weak can fre¬ 
quently be brought round by enriching the 
ground and otherwise bestowing on them judi¬ 
cious cultivation. One of the principal thing- 
to be observed in the case of the Raspberry is 
never to use a spade amongst them; the greater 
portion of the roots lie near the surface, and « 
the spade be employed in digging, quantities ol 
them necessarily get injured ; even fork culture 
should not be too deep. In order to avoid such 
pressure of work in spring, let all manure 
and soil wheeling be finished, stakes cut and , 
pointed, labels made, and trees that require i' j 
re-labelled. Nails can be cleaned, shreds cat, ( 
bunches of matting for tying, and small twigs . 
for laying in the new shoots of wall trees—there. ^ 
together with other jobs that will suggest them' t 
selves, may all now be done by way of forward- 
iDg operations when the busy time arrives- ^ 
When the air is dry and free from frost, open to® j. 
fruit-room ventilators for an hour each day All j 
decayed fruit should be removed forthwith. ““ > 
it may be worth while to wipe over the finer ^ 
Pears with a dry cloth, in order to ensure their ^ 
better preservation Easter Benrrfi and he . 
Plus Meuris, two kinds of Pears on which wc ^ 
depend for supplies in January and February 





Dbc. 22, 1883.1 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


479 


are sometimes so specky and subject to mould 
that without thus drying they would fail to 
keep at all. 

Vegetables. 

If Globe Artichokes are not yet protected, 
lose no time in doing it. When frosted they may 
live, but the stems will be weak and the Arti¬ 
chokes small; in fact they are useless. We are 
cutting from under a few leaves very fine heads 
of Snow's Broccoli, not large, but close and 
white, a vegetable that is in high repute here. 
Outside Lettuces, covered with the 6ame mate¬ 
rial, are now green, fresh, and delicious. Of 
Black-seeded Brown Cos, the king of all hardy 
Lettuces I know of, we cut a constant supply 
outside, and have done so for many years past. 
The time is no w at hand when leaves and manure 
must be put together for frame Potatoes, 
Badishes, early seeds of Lettuce, Cauliflower, 
ko. No labour is lost in having the heating 
material well looked after; when the beds are 
made tread them firmly, and think you are 
making Mushroom beds. To build up manure 
beds from 3 feet to 4 feet, and set frames on 
them, is not only a waste of time in building, 
but a positive disadvantage to the inmates. The 
right plan is to dig oat pits the size of the frame, 
2 feet or 3 feet deep, and fill them a foot or so 
above the pit, to which they will sink level; 
every bit of beat is then utilised. Any kind of 
light soil enriched with manure will grow 
Potatoes well; but for Carrots and small seeds 
I use refuse from under the potting benches, 
mixing sand and mud scrapings with it. Of 
Potatoes, we use the true Jlyatt’s and Wilson's 
frame; the latter, a new kind, I shall try this 
season. Early Scarlet and Shorthorn Carrots 
are among the best forcers. Do not be caught 
napping in not having a good supply of what 
are called little things, such as green Mint, 
Tarragon, Mustard, and Cress. In the case of 
Celery here, as elsewhere. Bracken is brought 
into use ; it is so light and feathery that it 
makes the best of all protectors.—B. G. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

A plant that with a very moderate amount of 
attention will be sure to give a good result in 
the town greenhouse is the Camellia. This 
delicate and beautiful flower may be brought to 
a very high degree of perfection by the most 
simple means. The Camellia does not require 
a high degree of heat; on the contrary, it suc¬ 
ceeds best in a cool house, being quite a hardy 
plant, as many writers in Gardening lately 
have testified. The great scorets of success 
with the Camellia is to encourage a free growth 
after the flowering is over, either by removing 
the plants to a warm house, or by shutting up 
the greenhouse pretty closely for about two 
months, giving abundance of moisture, both at 
the roots and In the atmosphere surrounding 
the plants, and slight shade from hot sun, main¬ 
taining at the tame time as nearly as possible a 
temperature ranging from 60° or 65°, to 70° or 
80°. This is the only time when any amount of 
artificial heat is required, and at the sea-on 
when growth is being made, viz., daring May 
and June, by careful attention to economizing 
the heat of the sun, very little fire heat is 
requisite. When the growth is completed, and 
the tiny buds jnst visible, give more air, and by 
degrees accustom the plants to free exposure 
by night and day in about a month later. In 
towns it is not at all advisable to expose the 
plants to the open air, as is often successfully 
done in country gardens. They are better kept 
under glass all the year round, and if they must 
be turned out for a little while, should certainly 
be placed under protection again not later than 
the middle of September, as the cold rains we 
frequently get in autumn do them more harm 
than anything. During winter, keep cool and 
airy, never either very dry or very wet at the 
root. When the buds commence to swell up for 
fl owering, great care should be taken that the 
plants never want for water, and a little weak 
liquid manure or soot water will assist the 
buds to swell, and also encourage subsequent 
growth, bat this mast be cautiously applied, or 
it may do more harm than good. Any potting 
required is best done just as the growth after 
flowering is commencing ; nothing but the best 
peat, with a little loam and sand, must be used; 
ample drainage must be provided, and the soil 
rammed evenly and firmly all round the old 
hall. These points atte^defl Jo^and to j^ei 




of the plants kept clean by frequent sponging, 
and success, is certain. 

Another extremely useful and elegant plant, 
far too seldom seen, is the Epacris. It is of 
very easy culture, and flowers freely, even in 
town air, just when flowers are most wanted, 
and most scarce, i.e., during December and 
January. Good healthy plants should be pur¬ 
chased established in 5-inch or 6-inch pots, in 
which size they will bloom freely the first year, 
and if annually repotted into a pot one size larger, 
encouraged to start into a strong growth about 
April, and well hardened towards autumn, taking 
care that the soil is never allowed to become 
either very wet or very dry, abundance of the 
long beath-like blossoms are sure to be produced. 
No plant lasts longer in bloom, or stands better 
when cut and carried about, than the Epacris. 
The colours range from pure white to rich crim¬ 
son, and at least a few plants should be found 
in every town greenhouse. B. C.B. 


VEGETABLES. 


CULTURE OF BEETROOT. 

Red Beet is appreciated by most people, and 
may be used in several ways. It is considered 
to be very nutritious, owing to the percentage of 
sugar which it contains. Being of easy culture, 
it may be successfully grown even by cottagers. 
The very dark-leaved varieties are often grown 
in mixed flower borders, and sometimes as 
edgings to flower beds, bnt that does not pre¬ 
vent the roots being used for culinary purposes 
when lifted in autumn. The soil most suitable 
for the growth of Beet is a light sandy loam, 
which should be well drained, as Beet delights 
in a dry subsoil. 

Cultivation'. —For this crop select a piece 
of gronnd that is free from shade, and which is 
of an open, friable character. In autnmn or 
winter trench it from 2 feet to 3 feet deep, 
ridging it at the same time. Gronnd which was 
well manured for a previous crop will be found 
to be rich enough for Beet, as medium sized 
roots will be found finer in quality than those 
which have grown to a large size; the latter are 
coarse in growth, and seldom possess a good 
dark colour, one of the principal points in well- 
selected Beet. Early in spring level down the 
ridges with a digging fork, breaking the soil 
into as fine a monld as possible. Repeat this 
operation a second time before sowing, when 
the ground will be brought to a fine tilth, and 
clean straight roots, free from side growths, 
will be the result. If the soil is light, tread it 
firmly before drawing the rows. The seeds may 
be sown the last week in April or first week in 
May. After sowing and covering, beat the 
drills firmly with the back of an iron rake, 
when the surface may be raked level. As soon 
as the plants are up hoe between the rows to 
keep down weeds. When the plants are 3 
inches in height they should be thinned out to 
9 inches apart, and hoed frequently, until the 
leaves cover the ground. 

Harvesting the crop.— About the middle 
of October the roots should be carefully lifted, 
using a strong spade for tbe purpose, as care 
most be taken not to graze the skin or break 
the tap roots, for if broken they will bleed, and 
instead of being a fine dark colour when 
cooked, will be pale and of little uso either for 
salads or pickling. The leaves should be cut off 
about 2 inches above the crowns. It is always 
desirable to lay the roots in a dry place for a 
few days before storing them ; they may after¬ 
wards be stored in a dry shed or cellar, and 
must be carefully guarded from frost. Mix 
sand or clean sifted coal ashes among the roots 
as the operation of storing proceeds; this keeps 
them fresh and prevents them from shrivelling 
daring the late spring and summer months. 
They should be looked over several times, 
picking out any which may happen to be rot¬ 
ting, as they would be sure to destroy any lyiDg 
close to them. Beet may also be stored in 
clamps in the garden, covering them first with 
turves, cut thin as for tnrfing lawns, or if turf is 
not at band, dry straw may be used, covering 
the clamp over to tbe depth of 2 feet with soil. 
In this way Beet will be found to keep sound 
until late in the following summer. If seed is 
wanted, either a few roots may be left in the 
ground during winter, or a few selected roots 
may be stored and planted out in spring in a 
corner where there is no danger of their being 


fertilised by other varieties. During the sum¬ 
mer they will throw up their flower-stalks, 
which require to be supported with a stake to 
prevent them from being broken off. Cut the 
stalks as soon as the seed is ripe, placing them 
in a dry situation until perfectly dry and well 
harvested, when the seeds may be threshed out 
and kept in a dry place until required for next 
year's sowing. 

Varieties. — The Egyptian Turnip-rooted 
comes into use early in the summer, grows to 
a medium size, is of good colour, and excellent 
in flavour. Pine-apple Short Top is also a good 
variety which grows to a useful size. Nutting’s 
Dwarf Red is one of the best for a general 
crop, being of a fine dark red colonr and good 
in flavour. The Chelsea Beet is also a fine 
variety, especially for small gardens, being 
dwarf and producing roots of a medium size, dark 
in the flesh, and excellent in flavour. Dell's 
Beet has fine dark foliage suitable for decora¬ 
tive purposes, and it produces roots of good 
quality. Cattell’s Dwarf is likewise a fine 
variety, which should be grown in every collec¬ 
tion, producing as it does, roots of an extra 
dark colour and good in flavour. W. C. 


10726— Making an Asparagus bed.— 

Trench the soil at once two spits deep, and work 
in stable manure as the work proceeds, or if 
procurable, seaweed and plenty of sand, or any 
gritty substance, such as ropd scrapings. It 
should be left as rough as possible on the sur¬ 
face until April next, when the young plants will 
be in the best condition for planting, viz., with 
shoots a few inches long ; then draw wide drills, 
and spread the roots of the plants out, covering 
with fine sandy soil, leaving the tips of tbe shoot s 
just peeping through the soil, aDd if mild 
showery weather prevails the growth will be 
rapid. Put some Pea-sticks to support the 
growth and keep it from suffering by wind 
waving. Merely keeping from weeds is all the 
other attention required until November, when 
the old tops may be cut off, and a dressing of 
rotten manure spread on the surface of the bed, 
to be lightly forked in during the following 
spring,—J. Groom, 0export. 

10744.—Mushroom beds.—ProboWy you have 
kilied the spawn by giving it too much water The spawn 
runs best in a dry medium. Examine the bed, and if you 
see no trace of the spawn running, conclude it iB dead. 
The Mushrooms ought to have appeared in six weeks.— 
J. D. E. 

10742.—Seakale plants.—The plants must be dug 
up and replanted, the small ones 1 foot and tho large 
ones IS inches apart. It may be done at any time. The 
soil ought to he deep and rich*. Some ashes ought to be 
laid over the crowns,— 3. D. E. 

10760—Spawning Mushroom beds.— The tem¬ 
perature 3 inches or 4 Inches below the surface of the bed 
should be 80" to 85" at the time ol spawning.—J. D. E. 


Protecting glasshouses from snow 
slips.—A word on this subject will now be in 
season, and may incline owners of glasshouses 
to look to the safety of their glass. Not a few 
readers may have erected glasshouses during 
the present year, and some, in choosing the most 
eligible spot which attendant circumstances 
allowed, may have overlooked a somewhat 
important factor in the case, and have chosen to 
plant their bit of glass where, after a heavy fall, 
Bnow may chance to slide from the house-roof 
above, and, in a moment, wreck not only the 
greenhouse, but a goodly array of plants, the 
result of some months’ attention and toil. It is 
not, every winter, especially in the south and 
south-west of England, that brings snowfall 
sufficiently heavy to endanger the conservatory ; 
but if the structure should lean to a house where 
a slide of snow from overhanging eaves would 
fall upon it, there is still danger, although several 
winters may have passed without mishap. 
Given a fall of say 2 inches or 3 inches of snow' 
and a thaw to follow sufficiently rapid to loosen 
the snow and set it slipping, and sad would be 
the result. I have seen a glass structure 60 feet 
long, covered with toughened glass three-eighths 
of an inch thick, shivered to atoms throughout 
its entire leDgih in a very few minutes. The 
snow fell about 45 feet. Where no permanent 
protection exists, the readiest way, when danger 
threatens, is to cover the glass roof with long 
boards, so as to spread the weight over as great 
an area as possible, and upon the boards to place 
matting or anything of a soft, thick texture, to 
still further deaden to blow. This is often 
insufficient, and the better plan is to prevent fee 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


I 1)rc. 22 1883 


snow altogether from falling. The way I have 
protected my own greenhouse (just erected in a 
corner where it would receive a fall from two 
sections of the roof) is this. Into the wooden 
plate which runs along just under the eaves, and 
upon which the principals of the roof rest, I have 
driven firmly, about 3 feet apart, iron stays 
about 14 inches long and turned np at right 
angles 6 inches from the end. To the turned up 
portion I have then firmly screwed a long board 
5 inches wide, the whole being thus secured in 
such a position, that when snow slips down the 
roof it does not fall, but rests against the board 
and melts there, the water dripping into the 
rain-water pipe which is immediately beneath. 
—C. P. _ 

INDOOR PLANTS. 

TUBEROUS BEGONIAS IN GREENHOUSES. 

Ouh experience of these plants during the past 
summer has quite convinced us of their value for 
decorative purposes, and. under certain condi¬ 
tions,we have found them to be much more easily 
cultivated than they are generally considered 
to be. There is now no doubt whatever that 
Tuberous Begonias, if a really good strain, can 
be placed nowhere but in the very front rank of 
ornamental flowering plants, whether under 
glass or in the open ground, in the border 
or parterre. lodged, we now consider them, if 
really good aDd grown under favourable condi¬ 
tions, superior in some respects to the universal 
Zonal Pelargoniums. Some of these points of 
superiority are as follows :—They are not so 
particular as to soil; do not require feeding up 
1 o so great a pitch: do not need such care in 
shading, Ac., to preserve the bloom in perfection; 
do not make Buch a litter of falling petals; 
have a much greater variety of form and colour; 
and lastly, they are really more free and con¬ 
tinuous in bloom than the justly popular Zonals. 

Of course, it is not intended to convey that 
Begonias are not really benefited by extra care 
in the preparation of the compost in which they 
are to be grown, or in watering and shading the 
blooms, Ac., or that they are not the better for 
being judiciously supplied with stimulating 
liquid of some kind, for such is not the case,and 
the Begonia, ;like any other high-class flower, 
amply repays any amount of attention, if wisely 
bestowed. 

SOIL.—The Begonia is not very particular as 
to soil; we have seen good plants grown in leaf 
soil, in peat, and in sennd loam. But peat is 
not to be recommended, as it does not contain 
sufficient nutriment to supply gross feeding 
plants of this nature. Good loam will produce 
the sturdiest plants, which will produce most 
flowers, and last longer, but the objection to its 
sole use is that the plants are so long getting 
established in it that a proportion will often be 
lost before this occurs, and that if one gets even 
a little unhealthy or the drainage becomes clog¬ 
ged, it will speedily go wrong altogether. The 
main points are that the compost should be 
thoronghly open in character, and be rich 
and sweet as well. Small or young 
plants need, of course, a lighter compost than 
older ones; for these a mixture of leaf-mould 
and ooarse sand, with perhaps a little fibrous 
loam added, is about the best material, while 
large strong roots should be potted in about 
equal parts of leaf-mould and loam, with a fair 
addition of sand, a little charcoal, and some old 
flaky hot-bed manure. But never use any close 
textured or sandy loam; it must all be thoroughly 
full of decayed fibre, or of a rough, lumpy 
nature. Small plants should be potted rather 
loosely, but large ones must have the soil made 
quite firm, the larger the plant the harder it 
should potted. 

Giving aik. Ac. — But the great secret of 
success with Begonias under glass is to allow 
them plenty of room and air all round the 
plants; they never succeed well in a low or close 
house. The house should be comparatively lofty, 
the stage upon which the plants stand an open 
or lattice one, and the ventilation abundant. It 
is very important to have plenty of side as well 
as top ventilation, and on all genial days these 
should be fearlessly opened. On warm nights 
in summer and autumn the top ventilators should 
be left open, which will greatly strengthen the 
plants. Last Bpring, our plants, though carefully 
potted and tend®!* looked very indifferent as 
long as we keptj^then^ iy a i^hpr low house, on 


an ash bed, but when we removed them to one 
side of a steep-pitched conservatory, with 
latticed stages and a current of air blowing 
right through, they improved directly, and were 
soon a perfect bank of bloom, the wonder and 
admiration of all who saw them, and lasted right 
through till the cold weather came. 

Watering is a point requiring some care. 
Abundance should be given when in full growth 
and blooming, but never water till needed, and 
always early enough in the day to allow any 
moisture on the stems or leaves to evaporate, or 
damping and decay will inevitably follow. In 
bright or warm weather they are safe enough 
without heat; indeed the cooler the better, but 
there should be pipes available into which a 
gentle warmth may be turned if even a few 
dull, wet, or cold days occur. This is espe¬ 
cially important if the plants are desired to 
continue flowering during any portion of the 
autumn. 

Seedling Begonias are easily raised, and if 
grown ou well, make fine flowering plants the 
same season, but to do this bottom heat and 
some amount of skill is requisite, and it is not 
everyone who can successfully raise a batch of 
plants from first-class seed, though ordinary seed 
of an inferior type grows like weeds. Perhaps 
one of the most remarkable points in connection 
with the Begonia is its extraordinary capacity 
for improvement by careful selection and cross 
fertilisation. Everyone knows what wonderful 
strides have been made in this direction already, 
and more still remaias to be done. This year 
we have had, from seed saved certainly with 
great care, but from flowers nothing very re¬ 
markable, blooms a long way in advance of the 
parents, some as circular in outline as the finest 
class of Zonals, with thick round petals, and so 
much substance that they last for a fortnight or 
more in perfection, instead of dropping in a day 
or two, as those of the old flimsy type used to 
do; others of the richest glowing, sometimes 
even fiery crimsons and scarlets, sometimes 
purplish, sometimes soft and rosy; some com¬ 
bining both color and form in an extraordinary 
degree; others, again, producing small but 
brilliant flowers in perfect masses, some erect, 
some drooping, but all beautiful.—B. C. R. 

GREENHOUSE CLIMBERS. 

So many inquiries are constantly being made 
for a list of climbers suitable for cool houses, 
lobbies, Ac., that a brief description of those I 
have found succeed well may be acceptable to 
those who are stocking similar houses. Some of 
those that succeed on open walls in the most 
southern parts of the kingdom need the protec 
tion of glass in the north and midlands, and 
many that are quite hardy are greatly improved 
by the shelter of glass. Foremost amongst 
climbers that flower freely and are universal 
favourites, may be mentioned Roses of a climb¬ 
ing nature, and especially Marechal Kiel, Gloire 
de Dijon, Adam, Niphetos, Ac. They are all 
very beautiful, and under glass have a very long 
season of flowering ; in fact, Tea Roses do not 
seem ever to go entirely to rest. 

Lapagebia rosea and alba are very 
beautiful cool-house climbers ; they are nearly 
hardy, and only require the shelter of glass to 
bring them to great perfection. They luxuriate 
in good fibrous peat soil, and when well esta¬ 
blished at the roots, send up strong shoots from 
the ground that cover a large space in one 
season. I may mention that slugs and snails are 
especially fond of the young growth, and 
sedulous care must be taken to guard against 
their attacks. The flowers last a long time in per¬ 
fection, and when tiained over a pathway and 
the shoots allowed to grow freely, have a very 
pretty effect. White scab is the greatest enemy 
to the Lapageria. It must be kept in check by 
washing with Gishurst compound, or any of 
the soluble insect destroyers. 

Plumbago capensib is one of the best of 
cool-house climbers, with lovely sky-blue flowers, 
that are produced in great abundance at the end 
of the young shoots in autumn. The best plan 
is to prune in rather closely in winter after the 
flowers have faded, and then allow tire summer 
growth to grow unchecked without any train¬ 
ing, as when hanging in clnsters and masses it 
has a fine effect. 

Clematises ’are very beautiful climbers, the 
large flowered' varieties, such as J. Gould 


Veitch, Duchess of Edinburgh, Ac., beiog 
excellent for cool houses; also the evergreen 
variety, called Clematis indivisa lobata. They are 
all excellent for mingling with climbers; being 
of a light, straggling habit of growth, the flowers 
look best when not too stiffly trained. 

Rhynchospermum jasminoides is a very 
beautiful plant, producing its clear white flowere 
in great abundance during the summer months, 
and, as its name implies, the flowers are much 
like the Jessamine, both in form and perfume; 
it is one of the very best of all climbers. 

Tacsonia Yan Yolxemi is a very beautiful 
greenhouse climber of rapid growth, with very 
handsome foliage and large crimson flowers that 
are suspended on long fcotstalks that sway 
in the slightest breeze, giving the plant a 
very elegant appearance. T. exoniensis is 
another very beautiful member of the same 
family. Cobiea scandens and C. scandens vari- 
gata are excellent climbers for covering lofty 
buildings; being of very rapid growth, they grow 
freely in any good soil, and are useful forgiving 
a furnished appearance to now houses in a short 
space of time. 

Solanum jasminoides is a very beautiful 
climber, and in this part of the south coast does 
well ou open walls, but is grateful for a little 
protection. It flowers most profusely, and under 
glass the flowers are nearly white; very useful 
for cutting. 

Habrothamnus tomentosus is an elegant 
climber, producing abundance of rosy blossom 
dnring greatest part of the year. The blossoms 
are of a waxy appearance, and the weight of 
them causes the shoot to hang down in a pen¬ 
dulous position. 

Tecoma jasminoides is a very beautiful 
greenhouse climber, the flowers being like 
Gloxinias white with pink throats, and the 
foliage is of the deepest green and very orna¬ 
mental. 

Bignonia Cherere is a beautiful deciduous 
greenhouse climber, but it should be mingled 
with some of the preceding evergreen kinds, as 
the winter aspect of glasshouses is of even 
greater importance than their summer gaiety, 
but its distinct character renders it worthy of a 
place even in a limited collection. 

There are many other plants highly orna¬ 
mental for covering walls or draping pillar!-, 
amongst which I may mention Cactuses of 
various kinds, that produce a gorgeous effect 
when in bloom; and the Epiphyllum true- 
catum. grafted on the climbing Pereskia stock, 
look extremely well on walls, also the waxy- 
flowered Hoya cornosa, and many others. The 
main point of success is to provide a good root- 
run of equal parts loam, peat and sand, and 
when a good growth has been secured, avoid all 
formality of training, and let the shoots hang 
in natural and graceful festoons or clnsters 
according to the habit of each variety. 

Gosport. James Groom. 


The Zonal Pelargonium in winter — 

There are many notes in Gardening from time 
to time about winter-flowering Pelargoniums 
and I, as a successful grower of them, wish to 
give my experience, hoping it may be of benefit 
to those who wish to have good flowers in win¬ 
ter. It is thought by many that winter flowering 
Pelargoniums are separate and distinct kinds, 
but Buch is not the case, for the Old Vesuvius is 
one of the beBt both for summer and winter. 
I start in February to pot off from store pots 
into 3-inch pots in a compost of good loam and 
rotten hotbed manure in equal parts,with coarse 
silver sand,and the compost should not be sifted, 
but all lumps broken up with the hand. After 
potting they should be watered with a rosed 
watering-can to settle all level, and should be 
put on a shelf in a sunny position near tbo glass 
until April, when they will be better removed to 
a frame. When established in these pots they 
should have the centre growth picked neatly out 
with the point of a knife. This will leave no 
mark in after growth, and will make the plant 
break out in the lower joints, one or more, to 
make the foundation of other growth. At the 
same time, all flower buds must be picked off 
as they appear, and by June the plants may 
be shifted into 44-inch pots, and after being 
kept close for a few days to get established, they 
may be plunged in some sunny spot, or placed 
on slates, and be filled in Ik tween with Cocoa 


Sra-'g-Jf-S S3- 



Dec. 22. 1883-1 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


481 


not fibre to keep the son from burning the roots. 
As the plants grow they shonld be tamed round 
and tbe centres picked oat of all strong shoots, 
■when, by this time, they will be making free 
growth at root and branch, and should have some 
weak stimulant. It may be made of horse 
manure, sbot, guano, or Clay's fertiliser, or all in 
turn. Mine do fine on tbe first two mentioned, 
as soot sends all worms adrift, while being a 
benefit to the plant. I have now at this time 
plants with seven large trasses of bloom on each, 
and I think this well repays the summer care 


plants for the coming winter with the same 
treatment as before.—C. M eacock, Belske Park. 


THE TRUMPET FLOWERS. 
(Bignonias.) 

The Bignonias are handsome dowering plants, 
and principally evergreen twiners, although a 
limited number are low busby shrubs. They are 
mostly indigenous to warm countries, the greater 
number being found in tbe western hemisphere, 
whilst a few come from the east. Out of some 


tration, is truthfully represented as to form, but 
want of room prevents its floriferous character 
being fully shown. When well grown it pro¬ 
duces great wreaths of bloom, the individual 
bunches being continuously developed from tbe 
joints of the shoots so as to touch each other 
like a string of epaulets. It is an old plant, in¬ 
troduced over half a century ago from South 
America, and without over-estimating its merits 
it may truly be set down as superior to nine- 
ten’ hs of the dowering subjects of modern intro¬ 
duction. Its season of blooming is from autumn 



of, I may say, unremitting attention. It must 
be borne in mind that the Pelargonium will not 
thrive in a dark or damp house. To succeed 
well it should have all the light the winter 
affords, and temperature should not be below 
50°; it wonld be better at 60° by day, as a little 
air is very beneficial on all clear days. I find 
the following among the best kinds -.—Single* 
Lady Sheffield, Lizxle Brooks, Welcome, Miss 
Gladstone, Mrs. Leavers, Laura Walters, Princess 
of Wales, Lady Hetty, Blanche Gordon, Wel¬ 
lington, Henry Jacoby. Vesuvius, Jennie Dodds, 
Colonel Holden, and White Vesuvius. Double* 
I think little of for winter, but Double Ve¬ 
suvius, Dr. Denny, Madame Baltet,and Madame 
Thibaut I find very good. Dr. Denny is an 
excellent winter kind (semi-double). Now, 
after February these plants should be re¬ 
duced or shaken out and potted again in rather 
light soil, and kept close a.£ew weeks, Shorten 
all irregular shoots, and''. 


5se a Jew weeks. Shorten 
nek they wall be ^xrcllent 


sixty or seventy known species, only compara¬ 
tively few are adapted to the requirements of 
the general cultivator, and of these it may be 
said that they come under the head of neglected 
plants, as, with the exception of two or three 
kinds, they are rarely met with. Why, it would 
be difficult to say, for when fairly treated they 
are undoubtedly amongst the most beautiful of 
climbing plants. Possibly one cause of their 
want of popularity is the fact that roost of the 
best sorts fail to flower freely if subjected to 
the over hot. moist, and often too much shaded 
conditions of our modern plant stoves; on the 
contrary, I have always found them do best in 
a warm greenhouse, subjected to all the sun 
and light it is po aible to give, and not too much 
atmospheric moisture; under such treatment 
they are less prone to exuberant growth, and 
the shoots and foliage attain the solidity essen¬ 
tial to the free production of flowers. 

B. venusta, the subject of the annexed illus- 


up to the end of the year, more or less accele¬ 
rate by the degree of temperature maintained. 
B. Cbamberlayni is a very strong-growing kind, 
with yellow flowers that are very effective. It 
is well adapted for a lofty house. B. littoralis 
is a free growing, but not over vigorous sort, 
bearing pinkish red flowers. It is suitable for a 
moderate sized house in which vigorous growers 
would be too large. B. argyrea violescens, to 
those who are fond of variegated foliage, will be 
acceptable. It is a medium-growing kind. B. 
magnifies, a new epecits from Colombia, has 
large crimson flowers shaded with mauve and a 
pale yellow throat. B. alba, a white-bloomed 
species from Guiana, is also known under the 
name of Jacaranda alba. It is a small grower 
and bears pretty flowers. 

Of kinds that will succeed in a cool green- 
honse, and which are well worth growing, are 
the following: B. Tweediana, a yellow-flowered 
species possessing a medium habit of growth, a 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






















482 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Dec. 22, 1883. 


native of Buenos Ayres. With some, this plant 
does not flower freely, but where it gets plenty 
of sun it seldom disappoints tho grower. B. 
grandiflora, a flue kind from China, bears orange 
red flowers. It is a vigorous grower and a 
handsome plant either in or ont of flower 
B. (Teooma) oapensis has yellow flowers and 
bright, clean-looking foliage. It is a moderate 
grower, and does not require much pruning. It 
blooms in summer. B speciosa is a pink-flowered 
species from Uruguay,that blooms in the spring 
or early summer. It is not so robust in habit as 
some of the kinds, and therefore more suitable 
for a moderate-sized greenhouse. I!, capreolata is 
a North American kind that I have found to 
succeed well in an airy, cool greenhouse, where 
it is very effective, but it will do out-of-doors. 
The flowers are reddish scarlet. B. radicans, a 
hardy kind, is likewise of North American 
origin. There is a large and also a small form 
of this, the latter the brightest in colour, which 
is reddish scarlet, the former being oraoge Both 
the above are deciduous, and suitable for a south 
wall. 


Culture and position. —All the species can 
be propagated either by layers or cuttings made 
of the young shoots or small pieces of the roots. 
Layers have the advantage of enabling larger 
plants to be obtained in a given time. These 
are secured by taking in spring some 6-inch or 
7-inch pots, draining them well, and filling them 
with a mixture of peat and sand. Into this peg 
down the preceding season's shoots, which should 
be notched at the joint that is covered with soil. 
Keep the material moist, so as to encourage the 
formation of roots, which will be produced 
during the summer in sufficient quantities to 
admit of the layers being severed in the autumn, 
after which they should be given more pot room 
as required. Another season will give them 
size and strength enough to permit of their 
being planted out in the bed where they are to 
remain, pots or tubs being unsuitable for them 
If to be increased from root cuttings, pieces 
should be selected about as thick as a quill; 
these should be cut into length of about 1 inch 
and inserted with the upper ends just above the 
soil, which ought to consist of fine sifted peat 
and sand in about equal proportions. A 6-inch 
pot is large enough to accommodate six or eight 
cuttings; they should be placed in an interme¬ 
diate temperatare, where they will soon form 
roots and make top growth also. The subsequent 
treatment required is similar to that necessary 
in the case of young stock raised from shoot 
cuttings. Where the latter mode of propaga¬ 
tion is to be adopted, it is best to cut back an 
established plant about, the end of February, 
which if in moderate warmth will soon push out 
young shoots. When these are 8 inches or 10 
inches long, they should be taken off with a 
heel, without which many plants of the nature 
of these Bignonias do not strike freely. They 
must be put in pots filled with sand in the 
ordinary way, placed in a brisk heat, kept moist, 
close, and shaded, conditions under which they 
will soon form roots, when they must have ad¬ 
ditional pot-room as they require it until large 
enough for planting out where they are per¬ 
manently to remain. They require a moderate 
space for their roots, but should not have too 
much room, especially the strongest growers, or 
they are apt to outgrow the space allotted to 
them, and they do not like over much cutting in; 
good fibrous peat, ora mixture of peat and loam, 
answers well for them. T. B. 


10735.— Plants for spring blooming.— 

The best plants to put in the frame now would 
be some hardy herbaceous plantB. They could 
be potted now and plunged into cocoa-nut fi bre 
refuse. One of the very best plants is Dielytra 
spectabilis; good masses may be potted in 7-inch 
or 8-inch pots. Spirea japonica is also very 
valuable, and the common Solomon's Seal is a 
charming plant. For its charming pale blue 
colour, we grow I'ulmonaria virginica in pots ; 
we also like a few of the early-flowering Apen 
nine Anemones, blue and white, and especially 
the early-flowering Grecian type, A. blanda 
We have also found some of the early-flowering 
Narcissus, other than the Narcissus Tazetta 
type, excellent for early-flowering in the green 
house. N minor is very pretty, while N. maxi- 
mus, N. princeps, and N. Horsefieldi are always 
admired. Of course, all sorts of Dutch bulbs, 
c nch as Hyaciijfhs? Tulips. s-.^jcuguot be too 


freely used. A few of the Ixias are charming 
plants. The pale green flowers of I. viridiflora, 
with black centres, surprise everyone who sees 
them for the first time; Bucephalus, Crateroides, 
Golden Dr .p, Lady Slade, Titus, and Wonder 
are some of the best of the others. The green¬ 
house ought to be filled with Pelargoniums, 
Chinese Primulas, Cinerarias, Fuchsias, and 
flowers of that type. Hard-wooded New Hol¬ 
land plants can only be grown well by those 
who have had some training in the higher 
branches of gardening.— .!. D. E. 

10747.— Culture of Orange trees.—If 
they are seedlings, and you wish to grow fruit 
good enough to eat, it will be necessary to graft 
t hem with varieties that can be used for dessert. 
The best are the little Tangerines, the St. 
Michael’s variety, and Malta Blood. We have 
had them produce fruit the first year after graft¬ 
ing, but it is best not to allow them to carry any 
until the third year, and usually they do not 
flower until that time. The trees must be potted 
in good turfy loam, with some rotten stable 
manure, crushed bones, and broken charcoal 
mixed with it. The plants must be grown in a 
warm house, and the leaves must be kept clean. 
Of course Orange trees can be grown in the 
greenhouse, but the fruit they produce is not eat¬ 
able. Presumingthat yours are seedlings,they may 
be grown in the greenhouse, and may produce 
flowers, probably fruit, in five or six years.— 
J. D. E. 

1061)6.— Wintering large Geraniums. 

—I think in this paper it has been recom¬ 
mended to take spent Geraniums out of their 
pots, shake out most of the soil, squeeze three 
or four into a pot, and leave them in some dark 
corner, guarded from frost, until next spring. 
Although old plants do not grow as well as 
young ones, yet they must be earlier in bloom, 
and at first make more show.— Stretton. . 

-“ A. M. C.” had better keep his large 

plants of Geraniums in the coolhouse for some¬ 
time yet, as encouraging them to grow now 
would only weaken them. Do not cut them 
down until the days begin to lengthen, and only 
give water enough to keep them from flagging. 
In February or March they may be cut down, 
and as soon as they begin to grow freely shake 
the roots out of the old soil and repot, placing 
them in a genial temperature. They will quickly 
form good growth, and flower quite as freely as 
they did the preceding year; in fact, I find old 
Geraniums the most ttoriferous, and for pot 
culture, or even for bedding, they may be kept 
for several years’ servioo with good results.— 
James Groom. 

-It is rather too late to cut down large 

Geraniums, and you will probably get more 
bloom by placing them in your heated vinery, 
and transferring them in spring to the conser¬ 
vatory. They could be trained against a wall.— 
Rock Ferry. 

10749.— Eucharis and Oyprlpedlum.—Neither of 
these will grow In a cool greenhouse. A house where the 
lowest temperature is 50^ is a warm greenhouse. They will 
crow and flower in that temperature, but better in one 
6° or 10° hiirher. The Em hsrll likes a higher tempera¬ 
ture than Cypripedium villosnnl.— J. D. E. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 

(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

10757.— Graea seed for lawns.— A soft 
velvety turf is one of the most ornamental 
objects a garden can boast of, and often the 
most difficult to obtain. All the necessary 
cultural hints of how to make a lawn and keep 
it in order will be found in Gardening 
Illustrated of last week, which, however, 
would have been more complete had it named 
the varieties of seed most suitable for lawns, &c. 
April and September are the best months for 
sowing. I would omit several varieties of Grasses 
that are recommended in many seedsmen s lists, 
for the reason that it is almost impossible to 
get some of the soft-seeded Grasses pure. So 
that often a large percentage is sown of rough- 
growing Grasses quite unsuitable for the 
purpose, and a lawn containing such can never 
have the same pleasing effect. I would con¬ 
fidentially recommend the following Grasses as 
most certain to produce a fine olose turf:— 
Fifteen pounds Cynosures cristatus (crested 
dogstail), four pounds Festuca duriuscula (hard 
fescue), three pounds Festuca ovina tenuifolia 
(fine-leaved fescue), thirty pounds Lolium 


perenne (perennial ryegrass), three pounds Poa 
memoralis sempervirens (evergreen meadow 
fescue). The above quantities are for an acre 
(imperial) of medium Boil. If a light soil, say 
five pounds less; if a heavy loam, five pounds 
more will amply repay the extra outlay. The 
above Grasses, if regularly cut and kept free of 
weeds, will soon give a fine, close sward, which 
will also feel soft to the tread. It is only weeds 
and tufty growing Grasses, and badly kept 
lawns (hat assume any other form. “St.John" 
will have to deal with the Daisies and the Dande¬ 
lions individually. He will require a good amotmt 
ofpatience and aDandelionextraetor(whichany 
seedsman will supply for a couple of shillings). 
Or another mode I have seen used with great 
Buccess, is to cut them an inch below the surface, 
and apply a good pinch of Balt to the roots left 
in the ground.— Aberdonian. 

10694.— Mobs litter as manure— “An 
Old Subscrioer" asks for any information pro¬ 
curable about this new article of stable bedding 
for horses, and as I have tried it on several kinds 
of crops, both under glass and in the open air, 

I readily comply. During last summer I pro¬ 
cured a quantity of this moss litter that had 
been used as bedding in loose boxes, and was 
thoroughly saturated with urine and mixed with 
the horse droppings, so that it was ready ior 
use at once, and had a good strong heat in it. 

I applied it as a top dressing to Cucumbers, 
vines, and pot plants, such as Coleus and other 
rapid growing soft-wooded plants. In the 
kitchen garden I applied it to Potatoes, Beans, 
Peas, Cauliflowers, &c„ spreading it on the sur¬ 
face and hoeing it in, and a very marked 
difference was soon observable in crops thus 
treated, and I should have no hesitation in 
using it as freely as any other manure. “ An 
Did Subscriber ’’ says the market gardeners 
prefer straw manure, which is used for covering 
over plants, but this manure is ready for use at 
once, and is excellent for forming Mushroom 
beds, as it contains a lasting heat. As regards its 
breeding or encouraging insects, l did not ob¬ 
serve any trace of it in any of the crops top 
dressed with it, and as the price of straw is 
likely to increase as cereal crops get more 
limited, some kind of litter must be provided 
to take its place. It is nothing new for any 
fresh material to meet with prejudice on its 
first introduction, bat if really good it will over¬ 
come that in time, or be supplanted by some¬ 
thing more suitable The value of the moss itself 
may not be mneb as a fertiliser, but its power 
of absorbing the liquid manure that is wasted 
when straw is used cannot be overlooked. Hence 
its value according to my own experience.— 
James Groom, Gosport. 

10737.— Destruction of insects.— Fumi¬ 
gate your plants at once, which should never be 
allowed to become so badly infested. Size of 
house is not stated, bnt the following plan 
adopted in a small house may suit yours:—First 
close up all ventilators tight, put a 6-inch pot, 
inverted, on floor, stand another upright on top, 
into this put, say, half a dozen red-hot- cinders, 
put tobacco paper, well pulled apart, on these, 
press down lightly, and as soon as it is well on the 
go come out and close the door. It must on no 
account burst into flame. A calm, damp evening 
is always best. See that the foliage is all dry, 
and two or three gentle smokings on alternate 
evenings are better than one strong one. When 
the insects are all killed, turn the plants ont and 
give them a good syringing, laying pots on the 
side. Clean and brush out the house, keeping a 
sharp look ont in future ; one insect left will, in 
a few hours, multiply with astonishing rapidity. 
On the first sign I gently fumigate, and have no 
other trouble with them. See also page 389 in 
the issue for Oct. 27 last.— Brixton Amateub. 

-- You do not say what the insects arc. 

but from the plants attacked I fancy they arc 
greenfly. The best way to destroy them is by 
fumigating with tobacco smoke. Of course the 
plants would be injured if care was not taken 
to see that the tobacco did not flame np.- 
J. D. E. 

10745.— Oats in house and gardens - 

The law is this;—In case of any damage by a 
neighbour’s animal, your only remedy is (failing 
an amicable arrangement) to sue him for such 
damage, which, as a general rule, does not mend 
matters or improve your acquaintance either; 
further, the law says you may not destroy year 
I neighbour’s cat, s>; he holds » properiy in it. II 



Dec. 22, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


483 


is always difficult to convince a neighbour— 
especially an unneighbourly one— that any 
damage or actual loss has been sustained; 
but when it comes to having your carpets 
and chairs, being decorated by other 
than the makers, it is of serious moment 
to the owner, and the only remedy I can suggest 
to you is one I was compelled to put into prac¬ 
tice myself some few years ago under very simi¬ 
lar circumstances, where appeal and remons¬ 
trances alike being unavaiUng. The cat was 
allowed to come in, but no one ever saw it go 
out again, and great was the marvel thereat 
where that cat went. I would also draw your 
attention to page 154 in the issue of June 2 of 
this journal.— Brixton Amateur. 

- I am afraid 44 Sydenham’’is practically 

without a legal remedy against the owner of the 
cats, as he will find it impossible to prove the 
necessary facts in a county court, to say nothing 
of the risk as to expenses, and it would be 
absurd to ask for “ an injunction against cats.” 
His only remedy is to surreptitiously take the 
law into his own hands, and if it is only his 
neighbours’ cats he has to complain of, it will be 
very effectual. I am told, however, if narrow 
wire be put on the walls at a proper slant, even 
the 44 metropolitan cat ” will not surmount it.— 
Lex. 

10741.—Nitrate of soda as a manure. 

— 2.8 you wish to apply it in a liquid form, the 
solution should contain about one pound of 
nitrate in twelve gallons of water. The number 
of applications must depend on the nature of 
the plants to which it is applied. To pot-plants 
it acts as a powerful stimulant, and very soon im¬ 
parts a luxuriant, appearance to the foliage. It 
is of great benefit to Chrysanthemums, Dahlias, 
Carnations, &c., duringtheir growing period,but, 
like soot and other stimulating manures, ought 
not to given to the plants at rest. If applied to 
the vacantground.it is of great service, scattered 
evenly, in destroying slugs and other garden 
pests. Id is also beneficial when applied 
sparingly to lawns.—J. W. 

10729—Refuse as manure.— The con¬ 
version of garden refuse into garden manure is 
an easy matter. All that one has to do is to 
throw it together into a heap where it may 
lay until thoroughly rotten, turning it over 
from time to time. If the house slops are 
emptied on it, a valuable heap of manure will 
be brought together during the year. We 
have known gardens naturally poor, but where 
splendid crops of vegetables were grown by the 
aid of garden refuse alone. Leaves, lawn 
sweepings, weeds, in fact all organic material 
should be carefully stored up.—J. C., Bylioet. 

- Presuming you have all your garden 

refuse collected together in a heap, you should 
turn it all over, mixing among it plenty of stable 
and cow manure. After laj ing six weeks or two 
months, it will be manure fit for any purpose in 
the kitchen garden. It may be used by itself 
if turned over and well rotted, but of course it 
will not bo so good.—J. Robertson. 

10743.—Specimen Chrysanthemums.— 
Your eye must have deceived you in the matter 
of the specimen plants, as they are invariably 
grown from a single stem, only that in many 
instances they are stopped so near the soil, and 
the lateral growths are bent down as they grow 
in such a manner as to make it appear that they 
all come from the soil. When a cutting plant 
has made some three pairs of leaves, the points 
should be taken out, and the laterals thus pro¬ 
duced are to be pinched when they are long 
enough, and so on up to about July, which pro¬ 
duces a very bushy specimen.—J. C. B. 

- It is not usual to pot more than three 

plants in a pot. The plants that you saw with 
tw'enty or thirty stems were doubtless old plants; 
if so, it is not the best way to grow them. For 
information on the culture of them, you must 
study Gardening.— J. D. E. 

1074G.—Charcoal as manure. — The 
chief value of charcoal lies in the ability which 
it possesses of lightening and improving gene¬ 
rally soils of a cold, retentive nature. It is not 
so useful for light, porous soils, but a small por¬ 
tion may be added with advantage. Where pot 
plants are grown, charcoal is very valuable, as 
about a tenth part added to the compost will 
much help to keep it open and free, and the 
email nobs are the very material that can 
be used for draining f^wer pots. Mas piant 


growers would be glad to have a supply of char¬ 
coal for this purpose.— J. C. B. 

-Dig in the stable manure now, and in the 

spring scatter the charcoal refuse over the 
surface and lightly fork in. It is capital material 
for heavy soils, but is not of much use as manure. 
—J. D. E. 

10748 —Covering 1 stem* of trees — 

Nothing in the way of evergreens can equal the 
Ivy for covering the naked stems of trees The 
common Irish is one of the best, and there is 
Regneriana, a very strong growing kind, and 
Algeriensis. In order to give them a good start, 
the soil should be well broken around the stems, 
and some good manure added to it, as, unless 
this is done, the plants are several years before 
they make good growth. Other good climbers 
for this purpose are Virginian creeper, Ampelop- 
sis Veitchi, and Honeysuckles, and the sweet- 
scented Clematis flammula.—J. C. B. 

10738.— Liliums auratum and lanci- 
folium.—These ought both to open their flowers 
out of-doors. Doubtless you want them for the 
greenhouse, else if they are to be flowered out- 
of-doors it is best to plant them out in the 
borders. Instead of using loamy soil pot them 
in a compost of equal parts loam and peat of a 
turfy nature ; use a little rotten manure, some 
sand, and broken charcoal mixed with it. Do 
not leave the pots exposed, but plunge them 
just over the rims in cocoa-nut fibre refuse.— 
J. D. E. 

10721. — Propagating Indiarubber 

plants.—The best time to propagate Indiarubber 
plants is in the spring. Cut the stem into pieces 
with two eyes each, and insert them singly in 
2.4-inch pots; put them in firm in a mixture of 
equal parts sifted loam and peat, with plenty of 
silver sand added. Plunge the pots into a brisk 
bottom-heat, and do not let them get dry.—J. 
Robertson. 

10719.-Growing Cucumbers.—By no 
means make the bed directly on the flue, as the 
dry heat would be sure to injure the roots. If 
you can allow 2 feet from the flue, it will be all 
the better, as sometimes in severe weather, when 
firing hard to keep out frost, the lower portion 
of the bed is apt to become too dry when the 
pipes or flue are very near it.—J. C. B. 

10715.—Thuja Lobbl for hedges.—In reply to 
14 E. W., Leeds," 1 have no doubt as to this conifer 
thriving in the neighbourhood of towns, as it is 
naturally very robust and free of growth I believe it can 
he obtained from any nursery where trees and shrubs are 
grown.—J. C. B. 

10753.— Propagating Chrysanthemums.— The 
young shoots springing up from the roots should be cut 
off just under the surface, and each cutting should bo 
planted ringly iu a small pot. They may be plunged In a 
cold frame, or they will strike root on a shelf near the 
glass iu the greenhouse.—J. 1). E. 

10752.—Grapea for forcing.—Muscat of Alexandria 
and Black Hamburgh will succeed in the same house. 
Plant the Muscats at the warmest end. If a division 
could be made for each it would be better, as the Mus¬ 
cats require 5* more heat than the Hamburghs.— J. 0. E. 

10710.—Law as to greenhouses.— “ O. F. S.” 
does not say under what form of notice the Metropoli¬ 
tan Board gave him notice to remove his greenhouse. If 
“ G. F. S." cares to send me particulars, I might assist 
him. Editor has my address.—L ex. 


B. F, Hackney.—We cannot recommend any particular 
stove. Bead the articles which have lately appeared in 
these columns on the subject of heating. 

J. n. F.— Procure the back vols. of Gardening, and 

you will have nil you can need.- John Full.— We do not 

name varieties of tlio Chrysanthemum. 

Names of plants.—./. P. Fmchctte .—Kindly send 

us fresh specimens.- J. H Whyte .—Chrysanthemum 

leucanthemum.- Gorsricld.— We cannot name from 

one specimen, and that a decayed one.- W. P.— 

Kindly send better specimens- Spots and Blots.—2, 

Cuphea platycentra; 3, Iresine Ilerbstl; 4, Sedum 
variegatum. 


Keeping seeds dry.— In winter weather 
when moat places are damp and clammy, it is 
difficult to keep newly-saved seeds from mould¬ 
ing and decaying. In order to keep all seeds 
safe, even in the dampest rooms, do not tiethem 
up in paper bags at all, but get a number of 
clean, dry bottles, and put the seeds into them 
when perfectly dry ; if corked up, the seeds may 
be preserved in excellent condition for any 
length of time. Insects, too, which ofren destroy 
beds in bags, can do nothing in the case of 
bottles.—C. 


Vol. I. 41 Gardening ” Is out of print, and we are 
therefore unable to further snpplr either separate copies 

o? bound volumes. 


QUERIES 


Rules for Correspondents.— All communica¬ 
tion* j&r insertion should oo clearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. 
Letters relating to business to the Publisher. The name 
and address qf the semler v« '■eatUred, in addition to any 
nom do plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title qf the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece qf paper. Owing to the 'necessity qf 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day of publication , if is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the neck they are received . Queries not 
answered should, be sent to us again. 

N aming plants. —Four pla nts, fnt its , or flowers only 
can be named at one time , and this only when good 
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name 
varieties qf florists' flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums , 
Azaleas , as these can only be correctly named by a 
specialist who has the means qf comparison at hand. Any 
communication respecting plants or flowers sent to name 
should always accompany the parcel. 

10797.—cropping for profit.—Will some fellow- 
reader kindly advise me as to the moat profitable uee of 
halt an acre of laud, situate seven miles north of Bir¬ 
mingham? The soil is sandy, with a gravelly subsoil. 
Labour, 3s. 6d. per day, is uncertain when meat wanted, 
stable mannre drawn from the town costs JOs. per ton. 
All crops or manure has to be wheeled through my gar¬ 
den, a distance of 40 yards. The land is held on a yearly 
tenancy, rent nominal. This year's farming has resulted 
as follows Magnum Ponum Potatoes just sold off, very 
fine sample, qnite free from disease I)r —Manure and 
carting. £4 2s. ; ploughing, 10s. ; seed, seven bushels, at 
5s., LI 15s. ; man. planting, <fcc., £1 Is. 3d.; getting up, 
£1 78. 0d.—total, £8 15s. 9d. Cr.— 62 hundredweight at 
3s. Sd., £10 Is. 6d —balance, £1 5a. 9d. The hoeing and 
earthing up I did myself by working late and hard in the 
summer evenings. Ilad this been paid for, the balance 
would have been on the wrong side of the account. As 
it is, I have only a few shillings and the seed potatoes— 
probably not more than sufficient to replant, If 1 again 
try potatoes. I may add that 1 cannot command capital, 
aa I am only a Poor Clklk. 

10798.—Plante falling in greenhouse.—I wish to 
ask a few questions with regard to a greenhouse. The 
house is about 40 feet by 16 feet and 16 feet high at the 
ridge ; the lower portion and floor are entirely of con¬ 
crete ; the place is very dull and damp, and stands 
nearly north and south, so that we get very little sun ; 
there is also a stove house the same length and 2 feet 
higher on the west side, which darkens It very consider¬ 
ably ; there is no means of ventilation in the roof and 
the boiler and furnace are under the same r< of, within 
the house, but partitioned off. The fumes from this I 
would think injurious to the health of plants. Tho house 
to me seems entirely wrong in its construction; every¬ 
thing looks lanky and very miserable, and bloom is out 
of the question. Before altering it I should like advice 
on the subject.— Wbitefarland. 

10799.—Lillum auratum. -I have a Liliura auratum 
which bore two very large blooms last Srptembei, the 
stem of which is still green, although it has not been 
watered for about five weeks. On taking it out for re¬ 
potting, 1 find the top part of the pot is full of fibrous 
roots, which start from the base of the stem and on the 
top of the bulbs, and there are no roots from the bottom 
of the bulb. It was potted in February last In half peat 
and half garden mould, and has diminished in size one 
half since potted. Is this tlio natural growth of this Lily, 
and if not is it likely to bloom next year ?—P.8. —It had 
a top dressing of !} inch of rotten stable manure in July, 
as recommended in Gardemng Illustrated.— W. H. 

10800.—Arecaluteecensand Cocob Weddelliann. 
—Would any correspondent who has grown the above 
plants inform me it I shall probably be able to keep 
them alive through the coming winter in an ordinary 
dwelling room ? The Areca (about 2 feet high) for the 
last three months lias been iu a room without a fire, ami 
appeared quite healthy until about a fortnight ago, when 
the leaves began to curl, and many are now somewhat 
shrivelled. The Cocos, although near the Areca, showed 
no signs of injury. Both are now removed to a warm 
kitchen, aud I shall be very glad to lear n if this situation 
is likely to suit these elegant plants.—A. L. C. W. 

10801.—Pear tree not blooming 1 .—I have a Pear 
tree (Marie Louise) planted on a west wall. It Is now 
eight or ten years old, and covers a fairly large space, and 
is apparently In a thoroughly healthy condition. Jn the 
spring it is generally a mass of bloom, but, as a rule, 
there is no fruit on it, and I have never gathered more 
than three Pears any year. Will someone advise me 
what course to adopt ? I have twice had the soil round 
the roots changed and the roots pruned. There is no 
other Pear treo for some distance.—L f.x. 

10802 .—Fruit growing for profit.—I am contem¬ 
plating planting two acres of fruit trees, such as Apples, 
Pears, aud Plums, with bush fruits between. Will some 
practical reader kindly tell me whether a living could 
be made out of it; how long before it would become 
productive, and the best means of going to work '! The 
soil Is fairly good, and I am near a capital market. Also 
what would be ample capital to properly stock such an 
area with first qunlity trees ?—T. Jones. 

1 C 80 S.—Painting ihot-water pipes.—My little 
greenhouse, 10 feet by 8 feet by 9 feet, is heated by 4-inch 
sanitary pipns, and I nm sorry to say they are not glazed, 
aa I should like them to be ; consequently, owing to their 
porosity, they give off a large amount of .•team, to the 
great detriment of my plants, some thirty of which I 
have lost by rot. What kind of ?a> nish should I put on 
them to prevent this, but still to radiate the amount of 
heat (60o) required ? I have tried tar, but that has not 
prevented it much.—S am Halifax. 

10804 —Plants falling In greet house.—About 
this time last year I had a span-roofed greenhouse built, 
running east and west, heated by 4-iDch pipes, the boiler 
quite away from the house, but acting beautifully. There 
is plenty of light and sir, yet nothing grows in it, leaves 
turn yellow and fall off. The plant® are quite free from 





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Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Voii. V. 


DECEMBER 29, 1883. 


No. 251. 


HOUSE ABD WINDOW GAEEENIBG. 

SOME CMUISTMAS-FLOWERINO PLANTS. 
IN looking over an old note book, 1 am 
reminded of several good plants which have 
given me great pleasure in former years by being 
in full bloom at Christmastide; and as all of 
them may be made available for window culture, 
it may be well to give them a passing notice. 
The first of these is 

Crassula lactea, 

a free-blooming Cape succulent, not easily to be 
recognised at sight as a near relative of the 
Carmine Crassula—now called Kalosanthes, to 
the bewilderment of old-fashioned gardeners— 
which has so long held its place in onr green¬ 
houses. The milk-white Crassula succeeds well 
grown in a suspended pot, and is a dwarf 
spreading plant, with very ileshy leaves, each 
one having a row of dots like pin pricks thickly 
set along its margin. Every branch terminates 
in a cyme or flat cluster of starry white (lowers, 
with dark anthers to the stamens, not unlike 
those of Stonecrop, and though the individual 
flowers are small, yet the effect of a number of 
such clusters is exceedingly good. It is a plant 
of the easiest management, and is particularly 
well suited to the window of a warm sitting- 
room. Like all succulents, it grows freely from 
cuttings, which should be laid in a sunny window 
to dry for ten days or a fortnight after it has 
been "separated from the parent plant. It should 
then be set at the side of a small pot in very 
sandy soil, placed in a light window, and watered 
very sparingly until it distinctly shows signs of 
growing. When fairly rooted, it may be trans¬ 
ferred to a 4-inch pot, and when large enough, 
may again be repotted into a 6-inch pot, which 
will be quite big enough for ordinary purposes. 
If the pot be well drained, as it ought to be, the 
plant will enjoy plenty of water during hot sum¬ 
mer weather, and should be huDg up on a nail 
outside in the most sunny position which can be 
fonnd for it from Jnne to October, by which 
time the flower buds will be coming well for¬ 
ward. It is quite possible that a cutting may 
not have snflicient time to develop bloom in the 
first year, and strong branching growth should 
be encouraged as much as possible, as the beauty 
of the plant consists chiefly in the abundance 
of its flower-heads. To this end, judicious 
pruning by means of giving away cuttings to 
friends, will reap its own reward, as I have learnt 
by experience. Frequent sprinklings over head, 
and even the use of a small and rather stiff 
varnishing brush, will be needed to keep it clean, 
as I know few plants that afford securer lodg¬ 
ment to spiders, which disfigure it with their 
webs. On the ripening of the branches in the 
g nn ont-of-doors dnriDg the summer depends 
the winter blooming, but this beiDg accom¬ 
plished, the pot must be removed under shelter 
in October, and suspended in a sunny window, 
where the flowers will gradually unfold, and 
will probably continue at least two months in 
bloom. Water must be gradually diminished 
during flowering, and then altogether withheld 
until May. There is a variegated form of this 
useful succulent which is, in all other respects, 
identical with the type. A very different subject 
is 

OXALIS VEB8ICOLOB 

—a charming little winter-blooming Wood Sor¬ 
rel, not sufficiently known to many who are 
attracted by the delicate beauty rather than the 
showiness of a plant. This sorrel is propagated 
by its small black conns, and though scarcely 
6 inches in height, and of delicate growth, pro¬ 
duces abundance of flowers. Its interest con¬ 
sists as much in the spiral pink stripes of its 
folded buds as in the peculiar satin-white tex- 
tnre of its open flowers. Like those of most of 
the genus, the buds remain closed except in the 
bright sunshine. My own experience of it 
during the severe winter of 1881 may be not 
without interest. The plants, as it happened, 
were not grown in a window, but close to the 
glass in an nnheated greenhouse. The buds, 
however, being ready to open, some pots were 
brought into a sitting-room on Christmas Day, 
and there bad to remain until the paths were cut 

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out, after the great snow storms of January 18th 
and 20th, which prevented all communication 
between the house and the garden. Every 
evening the pots were placed on the drawing¬ 
room table, where night after night in the 
brightness and warmth of the room, the buds 
unfurled, giving a pleasant Eense of life and 
hope in the midst of the death-like stillness of 
that strange waste of snow. The plants lasted 
quite a month in perfection, the only precaution 
taken being that of removing them into cooler 
quarters during the day. The culture of all 
species of Oxalis is simple enough. The tubers 
must be allowed a season of rest after the natu¬ 
ral dying down of the foliage, during which 
water should be gradually withheld, but it is 
better not to let them get dust dry at any time. 
In August they may be repotted in light, rich 
soil, when the tubers may be divided, if neces¬ 
sary, allowing three to a 6-inch pot. 

SCIUZOSTYLIS COCCINKA 
is another valuable Christmas blooming plant, 
opening its crimson, Ixia-like flowers, under 
pot culture, in succession during December and 
January. This year, this crimson Flag has been 
remarkably early and beautiful in the open 
ground, some very fine spikes having reached me 
on the 6th of December cut from a clump which 
had received no shelter whatever; but this has 
been, in great measure, owing to the remarkable 
fine autumn, for it is seldom, though tried every 
year, that it brings its flowers to perfection be¬ 
fore frost cuts it off in that exposed garden 
from which it came. On this account, it is the 
enstom there to lift some of the plants from 
the border early in August, while others are 
grown entirely in pots for house decoration— 
these, sis a rule, coming into bloom after those 
that are lifted are over. Where there is no con¬ 
venience for growing them, even as a temporary 
measure, in the open border, plants intended to 
bloom in windows or rooms should, neverthe¬ 
less, stand out of doors, in a sunny position 
a9 much as possible to make their growth, and 
should be well treated by being potted in rich 
soil. Unlike Ixias, to which it is nearly allied, 
the crimson Flag, in its native habitats in British 
Caffraria, is usually found growing near water. 
This knowledge supplies us with a hint as to its 
special needs under cultivation, and it is very 
possible that those who have found it capricious 
as to blooming, as it is sometimes reckoned to 
be, may have subjected it to too dry a treatment. 
Carefully attended to with water, therefore, and 
given from time to time whatever stimulant in 
the way of liquid manure is most convenient to 
the cultivator, the bloom-spikes will be freely 
thrown up in the autumn. As soon as there is 
any danger of frost, the pots should be brought 
into the house; and the bloom of some may be 
retarded if so desired, by placing them in a cool 
passage window, while others may be brought at 
once into a warm sitting room, thus prolonging 
the blooming period. The crimson spikes are 
invaluable for Church decoration at Christmas- 
tide, and last a long time in the cut state, as, in 
common with most bulbous plants, they open 
their buds in succession when placed in water. 
Where it can be so managed, those which have 
bloomed in pots should be planted out to remain 
a season in a reserve border, when the roots 
should be shaken ont and divided, the small 
runners being removed and kept only for the 
sake of increasing the stock, otherwise the 
blooming roots will be mnch weakened. If 
grown entirely in pots, the plants will need extra 
care and attention, but this they will amply 
repay. 

Cboous impeeati 

is a beautiful and distinct species, which blooms 
naturally at Christmas, but, owing to the 
inclemencies of onr English winter, it is still 
more suitable for cultivation in pots than in the 
open border. It is singular that, although this 
is a Neapolitan plant growing in great profusion 
in its native habitats, and has been introduced 
into England for a long period, it is still com¬ 
paratively little known. Yet it is a gem amongst 
winter-flowering plants, presenting no difficul¬ 
ties of culture whatever, and is as well suited to 
the cottage window as to the most costly winter 


garden. In its lovely flowers we find a rare 
combination of tints, the three outer sepals being 
of fawn colour with dark stripes, while the three 
inner petals are of soft pinkish lilac, delicately 
pencilled with a deeper shade of purple. The 
beanty of the flowers is greatly enhanced by the 
large tufts of their orange stamens. Every 
Christmas my pots of this fine Crocus never fail 
to give me the greatest enjoyment, opening with 
every gleam of sunshine, and even in bnd 
presenting a cheerful appearance. As in the 
case of the Crimson Flag before mentioned, it 
is a good plan when the stock is large enough, 
and there is an available corner in a garden, to 
have two sets to alternate between pots and bor¬ 
der. The corms that are intended to bloom in 
the window should be taken up and potted du¬ 
ring the early summer, soon after the foliage has 
withered, but whenever it is possible they should 
be kept out of doors until November. They may 
then be placed in a sunny window, in a room 
where there is no fire, and air should be admitted 
as freely as possible, the object being to keep 
the foliage strong and sturdy. In a heated, dry 
atmosphere the leaves would become long-drawn 
and weakly, which would injure the flowers. 
This species increases freely at the roots, and 
cannot be too highly recommended, as it lasts 
in bloom for some weeks. Another winter- 
flowering Irid must close the present list— 

Ibis stylosa. 

A species of singular beauty, and worth any 
trouble to bring it to perfection, but which is by 
no means as yet in common cultivation. It has 
been distinguished by Mr. Hemsley, in a valu¬ 
able synopsis of the genus which appeared in 
The Garden (Vol X.), as the Christmas Iris. 
Botanically, it bears the title of L ungnicularis 
as well as I. stylosa, though the latter is now 
more commonly adopted—a case of double 
naming which is irritating alike to learned and 
unlearned. It is also technically described as 
stemless, bnt the tube of the flower, being five 
or six inches in length, has all the appearance of 
a stalk, and answers the same purpose, as far as 
the cultivator is concerned. Its flowers last 
longer than those of any other species of Iris, 
which for placing in water should be cut just 
before the bud is ready to expand. When in 
luxuriant growth, its foliage is abundant, and 
sets off the large blue flowers, which are doubly 
welcome when they time their opening, as did 
one potful, last Christmas morning, to greet an 
enthusiastic gardener. 

Though this Iris may not attain the vigour 
under pot culture which it does in warm, sandy 
soil in a favourable aspect out of doors, yet it 
succeeds sufficiently well as a pot plant to give 
it a foremost place amongst winter bloomers. 
As the successful flowering of any plant depends 
entirely on the care bestowed upon its cultiva¬ 
tion during its resting time, so this Algerian Iris 
must have such summer treatment as will enable 
it to ripen its growth and consolidate such nour¬ 
ishment in its tuberous root-stock as will give it 
strength to flower at Christmas. The warmest, 
sunniest corner should be chosen for its growing 
quarters, where it should either be plunged at 
the foot of a south wall, or placed in a double 
pot and carefully watered, but anything like 
stagnant moisture must be avoided, as it natu¬ 
rally prefers a somewhat dry soil. 

Winter flowering plants are very precious, 
and should be made known as widely as possible. 
The few now recommended are easy of culture, 
requiring only attention to their individual 
wants to bring them naturally into bloom during 
the darkest and shortest days of the year. Only 
this morning, December 12th, a letter from a 
most»successf nl window gardener mentions with 
pleasure the fact of Crassula lactea and Oxalis 
versicolor beiDg in promising condition for 
blooming shortly, a testimony which bears out 
that already given, and which should encourage 
other w indow garden erstogetoutofbeatentracka, 
and by studying the nature and habits of plants, 
to find out such, whether newer old, as may be 
best suited to their own peculiar needs. To 
force a plant into bloom at an unusual season 
must always require special treatment, and, 
generally speaking, special advantages qf heat- 






486 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


ing and shelter as well, to which all are not able 
to attain. With the daily increasing number of 
species which are now brought prominently 
into public notice, however, it becomes merely a 
matter of knowledge and experience to choose 
out some which will meet all requirements; and 
by growing such as bloom naturally in the 
winter, many difficulties are removed, while to 
some minds, the simple realities of nature, are 
more attractive than results which are due solely 
to artificial means. K. L. D. 


10775.— Oalla sethiopica in windows. 

—This is one of our many beautiful window 
plants, and if “ Vera” will carry out the follow¬ 
ing cultural directions with judicious care, 
success will follow. We will suppose it is May, 
and that the plant has just gone out of flower. 
Gradually withhold water, and in a week or two 
its leaves will turn yellow, which shows that it 
has performed its functions for the season. Let 
it remain in a dry state until the end of the 
month, then turn it out of its pot, and shake all 
the mould completely away, separate the crowns, 
if more than one, and pot singly in a compost of 
maiden loam, thoroughly decomposed cowdung 
and leaf-mould in equal parts, with the addition 
of sand and charcoal, to make the whole gritty, 
tl-inch pots are a nice size for a window, but 
smaller or larger will do to suit convenience and 
size of crowns. After being potted, the pots 
may be plunged up to their rims in any sunny 
position, and if watered occasionally they will 
need no other care until the middle of Septem¬ 
ber, when they may be removed indoors. The 
Calla is a moisture-loving plant, but avoid stag¬ 
nation ; sponge its leaves once a week, to keep it 
fresh, with clear tepid water. It will also be 
benefited by a little artificial manure applied to 
the soil, which is procurable at any florist’s shop 
for a trifling cost, with directions how to apply 
it.—W. It. 

10770.— Feme In a window — I would 
like to recommend Pteriscretica as a Fern which 
does admirably in a dwelling room, whether gas 
heated or not. The fronds, when matured, are 
wonderfully durable, lasting in beauty until new 
ones are produced; they should be frequently 
cleansed with a moist sponge. As a room plant, 
I believe the variegated variety of Aspidistra 
lurida to be unequalled. If kept moist at the 
roots and the leaves frequently sponged, it will 
grow satisfactorily for years in the same pot. I 
know of a very fine plant growing at the present 
time in one of the wards of a large London 
hospital. The first cost of a plant (3s. (id.) 
seems rather high, but it is a good investment, 
always increasing in value, Richardia or Calla 
mthiopica (Arum or Nile Lily) is not so often 
spoken ef as a room plant as it deserves to be. 
For a window reaching nearly or quite to the 
floor, this plant is very suitable, as the exquisite 
purity of the flower is thus seen to greater 
advantage, and even when not in bloom, 
its appearance when kindly treated is truly 
tropical. When repotting becomes necessary, 
it should bo done in early autumn; any 
good soil will suit it, using, if obtainable, a 
little charcoal for drainage. It is a moisture- 
loving plant, and must never be allowed to become 
dry unless it shows a disinclination to flower, 
when withholding water for a short time will 
cause it to throw up bloom. Vallota purpurea 
(Scarborough Lily) does very well in rooms, 
and doeB not require frequent repotting. It 
should have a sunny position.—V. C. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


10781 —Climbers for north wall.— 

Ampelopsis Veitchi is not a suitable creeper to 
cover a wall facing north; it likes the reverse 
altogether, viz, south aspect. If you want to 
turn the wall to profitable account, you should 
plant Red and White Currants, or Morello 
Cherries. Any of the three mentioned does well 
on a north aspect. Having no inclination for 
these, the best creeper you can plant with any 
hope of success is the common or Irish Ivy— 
Hedera canariensis.—J. Robertson. 

- Ampelopsis Veitchi would grow very 

well on a north wall, and may be planted at any 
time before the end of March. It does not, 
however, colour well unless it has a fair share of 
sun. If in the country, many other things might 
be named, but in London, Ivy is, I think, the 
only alternative.—V. C. 

Digit** e» Google 


10783.— Planting Larch.— The beat time to plant 
Larch is in the spring- March and April—bat it may be 
successfully done In the autumn and through the winter 
when there is no frost; Poplars may be planted same 
time as Larch. A good age for Larch for planting out is 
four years—two years seedlings and two years trans¬ 
planted. —J. Robertson. 

- The present is a good time to plant Larch and 

Poplar, or any time before the month of March. The 
best age for Larch in planting is three years, but it will do 
well at four or even five years, if the situation is not too 
much exposed.—K. Maclennan. 

10776.—Evergreens for screens.—“ Lac Leman ” 
will find In Gardening, p. 469, the information he wants 
about these. Under trees few things do really well; 
the best are Aucuba and common Euonymus.—V. C. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

Insects on Ferns. —Thrips have a par¬ 
ticular liking for many kinds of Ferns, especially 
Dicksonias, and where the plants have been so 
affected it is a good plan to dip the fronds at 
this season in strong Tobacco water, which if 
repeated three or four times in succession will 
generally kill both the insects and their eggs. 
Where planted out there is a difficulty in thus 
dipping them, but to get over this I have used a 
long, narrow, shallow trough, such as would take 
a frond laid in It full length ; in this way a plant 
can be gone over in a very short time, leaving 
the liquid to dry on the fronds. This is more 
effectual and much safer than syringing overhead 
with the Tobacco water, as I have found that 
when it gets into and lodges within the crowns 
of the plants, the next season's crop of young 
fronds laying curled up therein is often injured. 
Where Ferns are affected with scale means 
should be taken to reduce the insects a9 much 
as possible now when there is little increase 
going on in them. I have not found any 
insecticide that will do more than partially 
destroy the scale unless used so strong as to 
Injure the plants ; consequently there is no alter¬ 
native but resorting to brushing and sponging. 
All the affected stock should be gone over 
if possible two or three times within the next 
month. In no way can there be such an ultimate 
saving of labour as by tho reduction of insects 
as low as may be during the winter months. 

Christmas Roses. —A good stock of these 
bardy plants will now and for a few weeks be 
proving invaluable for furnishing white flowers 
that almost rival those of the Eucharis in purity 
if grown under such conditions as enable the 
flowers to develop cleanly and perfectly. Not a 
little prejudice exists against lifting the roots 
for, the purpose of housing them for the blooming 
period, and it may be that in very light soil it is 
dangerous to do so. In stiff 6oil plants do well 
and soon get strongly established. I have now 
lifted into a greenhouse bed a few dozens of 
strong roots that were treated just in the same 
way last winter, and were split through once 
and replanted early in March. When these were 
lifted a few weeks since, the roots had gone 
down to a depth of 12 inches, and seemed as 
though they had been growing in that position 
for two or three years. All the roots are now 
fast throwing up bloom, and if not real Roses 
are Indeed Christmas Roses. The pure white 
hue of these flowers doubtless renders them 
most popular, but because of its exceeding 
novelty of hue, I find very much admiration 
given by ladies to the reddish bronze or copper- 
oolonred Helleborus cupreus, of which a strong 
plant just lifted from theopen ground is showing 
a large quantity of flowers. It may be a ques¬ 
tion whether it was wise just now to split such 
a root into some twenty crowns, each one carry¬ 
ing a branching stem of flowers, but it is done, 
and I have no fear for the result. I prefer 
planting at this time of the year in a deep soil 
bed, because the roots can be kept much more 
evenly moist than if in pots or deep pans. In a 
house also the flowers are well protected from 
grubs and slugs, and the stems get a little 
drawn, so that they thus render the flowers all 
the more acceptable. It is possible that where 
tender plants give plenty of bloom under 
glass in winter, hardy flowers are held in light 
estimation, but it is the few only, and not the 
many, who can enjoy such luxuries.—A. 

10768.— Ivy-leaf Geraniums.— Keep the 
plant on the dry side all the winter, and not cut 
back until spring. If you wish the plant to 
cover a certain space, do not cutback very hard. 
Cut a few of the branches well back to induce 
young growths to break away at the base, and 


' r Dec. 29. 1883 


cut out all weak shoots. You may always keep 
the plant within bounds by employing the knife* 
or thumb and finger in a judicious manner.— 
J. Robertson. 

10772 — Rochea falcata.—This plant ought to bp 

f 'laced in a light, airy position near the glws, and potted 
n ordinary toil with a little peat added. It will flower 
well in a greenhouse.—J. D. B. 

10793.—Coleuses.—Any good soil does for these, but 
the heat is the point at this time of year. They will not 
be happy in a lower temperature than 65«—V. C. 


ARAUCARIA EXCELSA AS A POT PLANT. 
This graceful conifer, though not hardy enough 
to stand out of doors without protection, makes 
an excellent plant for a cool conservatory or 
greenhouse. If planted out in good soil, it will 
grow rapidly and soon form large specimens, 



Araucaria excelsa. Grown in a pot. 


but if small, stocky seedling plants be procured 
and potted in 5-inch or 6-inch pots, they make 
excellent little plants for decorating small 
greenhouse stages, or for placing in vases in 
lobbies, &c. If kept free from dust by an occa¬ 
sional washing with the syringe, they will last in 
good condition for a longtime in rooms where gas 
is not burnt. They grow well in good turfy loam 
and sand, but where good loam cannot be bad peat 
must be used instead. The soil should be firm 
in the pots, and good drainage should be pro¬ 
vided. Copious supplies of water will be needed 
during summer, and at no time should the soil 
be allowed to get dust dry. The Araucaria is 
singularly free from insect pests, and is one of 
the best subjects for mixing with flowering 
plants that owners of small greenhouses, &c., 
can grow. 


10782. — Saxifraga sarmentosa. — 

Nothing can be easier than the management of 
this plant. Pot in good soil in spring, and water 
freely during the summer, and enormous num¬ 
bers of runners will be made, which, if laid on 
the soil in another part, will soon become inde¬ 
pendent plants. You cannot prevent its bloom¬ 
ing if it only gets a little sun every day. It is 
quite hardy in rockwork.—Y. C. 

Conservation of heat in glass 

houses.—I find the Aston Clinton straw mats by 
far the best covering for greenhouses. A house 
25 feet by 12 feet, partly built below ground, in 
which I grow Cattleyas, is easily matted up, and 
the almost immediate result is a rise of 5° or 6°. 
In other words, this means that, instead of firing 
hard towards sundown, the fires are banked up 
and mats gradually laid, on so as to avoid sudden 
rise of temperature, till the whole is covered,after 
which there is'a fall of only 2° or 3° by the time the 
fires receive attention in the morning. The fol¬ 
lowing may also be usefulI half a half span 
house 60 feet long, the front lights being fully 
exposed to the weather. Light wooden frames 
are made in lengths of 6 feet and covered with 




Dec. 20, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


487 


stoat calico, which is then well dressed with a 
few coats of boiled oil. These frames are fixed 
on the front of the house by small brass hooks, 
the whole being put in their places and made 
right and tight for the night in one minute, and 
removed as quickly. I consider that in my stove 
and intermediate house we save, by this simple 
contrivance, fuel equivalent to about 4 degrees 
of heat in a windy cold night, which means also 
less fire-heat in the houses, and absence of the 
arid feeling which is so difficult to avoid when 
hard firing has to be resorted to. I may add 
that ventilation is kept on in these houses night 
and day, the minimum night temperature being 
62° and 55° respectively, and that the air ad¬ 
mitted under the eaves is warmed before reach¬ 
ing the plants by a single row of l.J-inch pipes 
run all round along the wall plates—W. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 


Extractt from a Garden Diary—December 31 
tp January 5. 

Potttny some standard Rosea for next year’s forcing! 
putting in Vine eyes; al-so cuttings of Purple King 
Verbena, chrysanthemums, AlyBsums, Salvia splcndens, 
Heliotrope*, and Fuchsias; throwing out trenches ana 
i tilling them with manure on which to plant Seakalo for 
forcing next season ; planting Sweet Bays; throwing out 
holes in which to plnnt Pear and Nut trees after having 
trenched the ground ; fumigating Gardenias and Calceo¬ 
larias to keep down ily ; turning manure In order to get 
it heated for Potato pits; pruning Roses on pillars ; 
sowing more pots of Mignonetti ; putting cuttings of 
Salvia patens in beat; also putting in some Gooseberry 
and Currant cuttings; planting some Apple, Peach. 
Apricot, and Pear trees; also Raspberry canes ; digging 

[ amongst bush fruits ; sowing French Bean* in pots and 
placing them in second vinery: potting Nemophila and 
Saponaria for baskets ; patting in cuttings o! Guapha- 
Uura lanatum, and also of Begonias; planting out 
Schizostylls coccinea; wheeling a portion of the rubblah- 
heap on to the Gooseberry quarter ; digging vacant 
ground ; potting off autumn-struck Petumas ; also 
Cucumbers, plunging them in pits, keeping them at 70°, 
nod covering them at night; shifting autumn-struck 
Centaurea* luto 6-lnch pots ; striking cuttings of Lobelias 
in heat; also cuttings of Oxalia and Ueliotropo ; shifting 
herbaceous Calceolarias into larger pots ; transplanting 
nine Ghent Azaleas iu order to prepare them for forcing; 
manuring Boses libeVally; also any Plum trees that 
annually bear heavy crops, giving two burrow-loads to 
each : turning the rubbish-heap in order to hasten decay 
so that it may be ready for use when wanted; putting 
ashes over Pena just coming up ; pruning wall Roa o, 
having finished thoso on trellises ; planting some Wine- 1 
s«w Plums ; sowing Cyclamen seed ; taking offsets from , 
KchaverU glauca and putting them into slight heat: 
potting Gladioli iu two parts loam, oue part manure, ami 
cue part peat and sand. 

OIsa9houa«3. 

Btephauotib. —Where the flowers of this 
general favourite are waDted over as long a 
period as possible, several plants should be grown 
There is the advantage of obtaining larger speci¬ 
mens when planted out, but this is over-balanced 
bv the inability to retard or push them on at 
will in the way that can bo done when they are 
moveable and grown in pots; moreover, the 
plant only requires a limited root space, and 
very large examples can be grown in good sized 
puts. It never succeeds so well as when trained 
close to the glass under the roof ; we prefer thin 
string for thus supporting it rather than wire, as 
when it is necessary to remove the plant to a 
lower temperature to give a rest, the string can 
easily be taken down and the shoots wound 
round the trellis or a few temporary sticks 
Plants that have been so rested may at once be 
putinto active heat, distributing the shoots under 
the roof tolerably close. Whatever cutting back 
is required with this plant should take place 
after the blooming is over. 

Amaryllises.— Some bulbs of these may now 
be started, moistening the soil sufficiently to in 
duce a healthy movement of the roots. With the 
deciduous kinds wherein the ball has been 
allowed to get dry, it is not a bad plan to soak 
I them in tepid water for an hour or two, as with 
i the ordinary application of water it often happens 
that the top of the ball looks moist when it is 
dnst-dry below. 

Gloxinias. —There are few flowers so useful 
as these, for with judicious management in 
arranging for successions they can be had nearly 
all the year round; but to have them in a con¬ 
dition to be really serviceable for cut purposes, 
they must not be too much hurried, and whilst 
growth is going on they cannot be too near the 
glass. It is much better to start the bulbs at 
different times; if a few are at once potted and 
placed at the coolest end of the stove they will 
:ome in early; do not use tfctoeoil too moisiL and 
• let them be put in heatf imm|dkpteiv(fSa’ia>e 
potted. We have seen \b«I Bulbs destroyed 


through two or three days’ inattention by 
leaving them in a potting shed after they have 
been placed in contact with the new moist 
soil. It is scarcely worth while now going 
in for named varieties of Gloxinia, as really 
splendid flowers, both in form and colour, can 
be had from seed. If a little is sown at this 
time, the plants will bloom nicely through the 
later months of the year after the older 
examples have become exhausted; the seed 
should be sown thinly in a wide pan drained 
and filled with finely sifted soil, to which has 
been added a good deal of sand; make the 
surface smooth and firm, so that the seeds may 
not get down too deep, covering them very 
slightly with a little fine soil, pressing gently 
down and putting a sheet of glass over the pan, 
by which means the material will retain moisture 
so as to minimise the amount of water necessary 
to be applied, a matter that it is always needful 
to be careful abont with small seeds that require 
heat to enable them to vegetate. 

Primulas. — Both the single and double 
varieties should, where possible, be kept in a 
light house or pit, where they can be accommo¬ 
dated with a night temperature of from 15° to 
50°, keeping them as close to the glass as 
circumstances will permit. The plants of the 
single varieties intended for later flowering 
should be some degrees cooler than this, and all 
must be watered with care, as if the footstalks 
of the leaves get much wet they will be liable 
to decay. 

Cyclamens. —To grow these plants well they 
should be treated through the winter as to 
temperature much in the way recommended for 
Primulas, as, nuless kept a little warmer than 
an ordinary greenhouse, they m ill not grow or 
flower anything like what they are capable of. 
Keep a good look-out that there are no aphides 
upon them, otherwise they get established in 
quantity on the young advancing bloom-stems 
without being noticed, in which case they will 
cause the flowers to come deformed. 

Cinerarias.— If a sowing were made suffi¬ 
ciently early, and the plants have been well 
attended to through the season, they will 
naturally have come on into flower without any¬ 
thing above the usual greenhouse treatment, to 
which they should never be subjected, as even 
a Ygry little heat injures them by destroying 
the under leaves and drawing the bloom-stems 
up thin and weakly, which spoils them for the 
general purposes of decoration, and if the flowers 
a e wanted for catting makes them compara¬ 
tively worthless, as they flag directly. Keep 
the sncctsdonal la'erblooming plants as cool as 
possible, so that they are out of the reach of 
frost; by thii means they may be had to flower 
in good condition np to the middle of May, 
duriDg which period they will be fonnd most 
nseful, as they furnish shades of colour, espe¬ 
cially blue, not only beautiful in themselves, 
but such as much enhance the effect produced 
by flowers of other colours with which they are 
associated, either in the conservatory or in a cut 
state. 

Calceolarias. —Plants of herbaceous Cal¬ 
ceolarias raised from seed sown last summer, 
and afterwards potted off singly, should at once 
be attended to by moving them into larger pots 
before their roots get at all confined, for if this 
occnrs the stnuting influence will bo snch that 
they never afterwards can be induced to grow 
on freely, or to attain anything like the size 
and ability to produce such a quantity of flowers 
as when encouraged by liberal treatment. If, as 
may be supposed, they are occupying 3-inch 
pots, a portion may be moved into 4-inch ones, 
or larger, in which they can be allowed to bloom. 
Those that are intended to have a second shift 
in addition to the present may be transferred at 
this time to 6-inch pots. They delight in rich, 
light soil, such as is composed of two parts 
good free, turfy loam, with a third part consist¬ 
ing of equal proportions of leaf-mould and 
rotten manure all mixed up with sufficient 
sand, In potting, avoid the extremes of leaving 
the soil very loose, and also the opposite of com¬ 
pressing it in the pots to that degree of solidity 
necessary with Pelargoniums. The plants 
should have a light position in a pit or house 
that can be kept at a temperature of about 40° 
in the night, with a mobster atmosphere than 
many plants require. Shrubby Calceolarias in¬ 
tended for flowering in pots Bhould be similarly 
treated ; these do better with potting somewhat 


harder than the herbaceous species. Both should 
be from time to time examined to see that they 
are free from green fly. Where only a few in¬ 
dividual plants amongst a number are 
alfected, dipping in Tobacco water will prove 
an efficient means for the destruction of the in¬ 
sects, or they may be killed by fumigation, but 
where this is resorted to it will be safer to repeat 
it slightly several times than to subject the 
plants to a severe application, as they are much 
easier injured by Tobacco fumes that many sub¬ 
jects. 

Flower Oarden. 

Herbaceous plants.— These show off best 
in wide shrubbery borders with low evergreens 
to back them up, but the evergreens ought not 
to be of a kind that root far abont, or they rob 
the other plants, and bo spoil their growth. Rho¬ 
dodendrons, Berberis Darwini, B. stenophylla, 
and snch like do not do th is, and therefore should 
be largely made use of, as they are not only valu¬ 
able on this account, bnt they are more desirable 
than most others on account of their moderate 
habit and the great beauty of their flowers, which 
they bear so profusely in spring. For variety of 
foliage, Aucubas, Euonymns, and Holliea are the 
most suitable, and to these may be added the 
variegated Dogwood and Acerfraxinifolium, and 
by way of contrast to these one or two of the 
dark-coloured Nut, which, with its rich coppery 
leaves, shows up well. To make sure of old 
borders being perfectly free of roots from trees 
and shrubs near, it is a good plan at this season 
to trench up the same, and when doing so to 
work well np around, cutting and removing all 
in the way. As most herbaceous plants are fond 
of rich soil, the opportunity afforded when 
trenching of giving a good dressing of manure 
should not be lost. The kind of manure most 
suitable for the purpose is that of a mild nature 
and which has been lying by for some time to 
get well decomposed. Such as this is agreeable 
to most plants, and may be used freely without 
fear of injuring the roots, but it is always best 
to keep it low down. 

General work.— High keeping is certainly 
most desirable at this dull season of the year; 
therefore lawns should be kept clear of leaves 
and worm-casts by frequent rolling and sweep¬ 
ing ; walks should be kept clear of Moss and 
weeds by turning, and, where necessary, re¬ 
gravelling. The best of all walk preservers is 
the roller; when this is used freely, weeds and 
Moss have a hard time of it, and firm walks ate 
the result. In the event of frosty weather setting 
in, plenty of work may be found in carting out 
soils and manures to spots where they are re¬ 
quired, throwing together leaf heaps, and burn¬ 
ing up printings or other rubbish, the ashes of 
which form a valuable manure for any crop. We 
are now now at work amoog the shrubberies, 
cleaningoutallleaves thatwouldbe likelytoblow 
out and cause untidiness; where possible without 
injuring the roots, preference is given to forking 
them in, but before doing this the plants are 
regulated as to space, either by thinning out 
and replanting them in other positions, or else 
by cutting out straggling growths, so as to keep 
each plant from injuring its neighbour. The 
margins of turf are then cut, and any vacant 
ground in front furnished either with hardy bulbs 
or spring flowering plants, such as Wallflowers, 
Forget-me-nots, Polyanthuses, Primroses, and 
similar plants. In forming new beds for shrub 
planting, the ground Bhould be trenched as 
deeply as the nature of the soil will allow ; 
plenty of decayed manure Bhould be worked into 
it, and for those beds that are intended for what 
are generally termed American plants, i e, Aza¬ 
leas, Rhododendrons, Kalmia*, See., peat soil is de¬ 
sirable, but by no means essential, as they do 
almost equally well in pure loam, provided it is 
not too heavy and is free from chalk, which seems 
to be rank poison to American shrubs and Coni¬ 
fers, and their growth should never be attempted 
in soil of this character. See that the plants 
are not buried deeper than they were previous 
to removal, and also that the soil is well worked 
in and consolidated abont the roots. These 
precautions may seem of little moment, but they 
make all the difference between the bad or well¬ 
doing of the plants. 

Fruit. 

Early Vines. —If the Vines have been bent 
down to a horizontal position, to insure an even 
break, get them tied up to the wires is soon as 
the most backward buds are on the move 


488 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Dec. 29, 1883. 


Syringe with warm water when the temperature 
begins to rise. Give air at 68°, close early, and 
syringe again if the afternoon is fine. If inside 
borders are well drained, a second supply of 
water at a temperature of 80° will help the 
young growths rapidly forward, and old Vines 
will benefit by the addition of a little clear 
liquid from the tank, or a dash of guano in the 
water, while vigorous young canes will produoe 
more compact “ shows,’’ and set their fruit better 
if stimulants are withheld. Pay timely attention 
to disbudding, or rather the removal of weak 
breaks, from which bunches of Grapes cannot be 
expected, and when the best shows become 
prominent raise the night temperature to 58° or 
60° on mild nights. If forcing has been 
commenced with fermenting material on the 
borders, make frequent additions, turn the whole 
mass, mixing the old with the new, and aim at 
a temperature of 70° to 75° on the surface of 
the soil. Where external borders have been 
well covered with a good body of dry warm Oak 
leaves, and protected from wet, they will retain 
their warmth much longer than when fermenting 
manure, which is objectionable, is used. 

Melons.— Where early Melons are required, 
and a light, efficiently-heated pit is at com¬ 
mand, a few seeds of some free-bearing early 
kind may be sown at once in small pots and 
plunged in a bottom heat of 80°, which can be 
kept up by the aid of hot-water pipes running 
beneath the bed. The great drawback to Melons 
at this early season is want of light, a difficulty 
which may be met by keeping the young plants 
close to the glass, which must be clean, and by 
covering with bell-glasses in preference to mats 
on severe nights. Immediately after the seeds 
are sown set about the preparation of suitable 
materials for making up the plunging bed in 
which the plants are to grow and ripen their 
fruit. For this purpose well-worked tan gives 
least trouble, but in wooded districts sound Oak 
leaves produce better results, as the moist heat 
from decaying vegetable matter is more favour¬ 
able to a clean, healthy growth of vine and 
foliage. Another important item in successful 
Melon culture is a good supply of strong loam 
from an old pasture, which should be cut some 
months before it is wanted for use, and stacked 
in an open, airy shed, or in long narrow ridges 
out-of-doors, with some kind of covering for 
throwing off heavy rain and snow. If this is not 
at hand, lose no time in securing enough for the 
season and expose it to the atmosphere, as wet, 
crude soil is sure to lead to disappointment, if 
not to complete failure. 

Hardv phuit. —The mild, damp weather 
which has been so favourable for pruning and 
nailing will have held out inducements to many 
to postpone such work as top-dressing and 
mulching until walks and borders are in a better 
state for wheeling manure and compost. But so 
important an operation must not be longer 
neglected, as the timely application of a good 
covering to newly planted or root-pruned trees 
cannot be overrated. Where l’ears are grown 
on the Quince stock and theroots have not been 
disturbed, the annual top-dressiDg of good rich 
manure may be wheeled out on frosty mornings 
as soon as the nailing is finished. It is well 
known that the successful culture of Pears on the 
Quince stock greatly depends upon rich top- 
dressings ; and as the borders in course of time 
become too high, old top-dressing and exhausted 
soil may be forked off and placed on the vege¬ 
table quarters to make room for the new. After 
a few years heavy cropping puts an end to 
extension, blossom buds only are formed, and as 
many people are quite incompetent to thin their 
own fruit, the annual removal of old spurs at 
pruning time should not be neglected. Push on 
the pruning and cleaning of all kinds of fruit 
trees. Unfortunately, the winter dressing of 
hardy trees is much neglected; many trouble¬ 
some insects are allowed to rest in the bark and 
walls, from which they almost precede the un¬ 
folding of the earliest buds in spring. 

Vegetables. 

If directions in former calendars have been at¬ 
tended to, the first sowing of Peas will be above 
ground. Cover them all over with coal ash to 
ward off slugs, and by putting three strings of 
worsted 0 inches above the Peas, their tops when 
they peep above the ashes will be saved from the 
depredations of birds. Get in the second lot at 
once, sowing sush 'As are hard {and round— 
wrinkled Peas, a^a r^,y re iiJl]e|t flavoured, 


but not the safest to plant at present. Laxton's 
Earliest of All is both hard and round ; therefore 
try it. Ringleader and William I. are also both 
good standard varieties. Kuocessional sowings 
of Broad Beans should be made. We prefer 
early Mazagan, and good old green Windsor to 
any other. Now is a capital time to make plan¬ 
tations of Horseradish; we merely sink the 
tops with an inch or two of the roots attached to 
them a foot deep in good land. Get ground for 
Onions dug up roughly and deeply—our site for 
them is the Celery quarter. Where these useful 
esculents go off from mildew or other causes, 
give the land a good dressing of soot and lime, 
allowing it to remain on the surface until the 
seed is to be sown. About the second week in 
March will be quite soon enough to get the seed 
in. Sowing early in February is a mistake; the 
young seedlings come up, and the March winds 
turn them yellow and oripple them so much that 
good bulbs cannot be expected. Land for Car¬ 
rots should also be dng and treated in a similar 
manner to that for Onions. The state of our 
Broccoli crop is most cheering, fine stout stems 
close to the ground, the result of sowing late 
and planting out directly the plants are large 
enough to handle. Never allow any kind of 
plants to become drawn or leggy before planting 
them out. Working or turning over leaves and 
long manure, filling the pits for spring vege¬ 
tables salads, tea., will now be the order of the 
day. Keep up good supplies of Seakale, Rhu¬ 
barb, Mushrooms, and French Beans, not forget¬ 
ting small things, such as green Mint, Tarragon, 
and Mustard and Cress. 


WORK IN THE TOWN GARDEN. 

This is the season of rest to everything, both 
indoors and out, with very few exceptions. 
Outside, the beds and borders are bare, except 
for a few evergreens ; trees and shrubs are, for 
the most part, leafless ; the turf is of a decidedly 
rusty hue; and the Tulips, Crocuses, Snowdrops, 
and other bulbous treasures that are to make 
our garden so bright in the spring, are safely 
hidden away under their covering of mould. 
Indoors, the shelves of our modest greenhouse 
are mostly occupied by rows of Geraniums and 
other bedding plants, either as old plants or 
cuttings, now nicely rooted and growing. These 
latter will Bhortly require potting off separately, 
but all we can do at present is to keep all dead 
leaves perseveringly removed, and supply them 
judiciously with water. Much bloom cannot 
be expected in a town greenhouse atthis time of 
year, but if the aspect is good, the plants well 
cared for, and a genial temperature maintained, 
a fair sprinkling of colour may be obtained by 
theexercise of a little forethought. The beautiful 
Chinese Primroses are by far the moat profuse 
flowering plants we have now. It is a somewhat 
difficult matter to raise these with any great 
measure of success in town air, though it is to 
be done. On the whole, perhaps, the best way 
is to purchase a few well-grown, sturdy plants, 
just as they are coming into bloom, and if 
afforded a light position and regularly watered, 
they will bloom abundantly the whole winter. 
There may be a tiny gleam of scarlet Geranium 
here and there, but they will be but poor little 
blooms at the best, compared with those we get 
so abundantly in summer. 

Chrysanthemums are nearly all over by this 
time, but the delicate Bouvardia, both red and 
white, are now in beauty, and the compact tufts 
of the Cyclamen are just beginning to throw np 
and expand their many-shaded blossoms. The 
great point with these is to keep them always 
warm, airy, and damp. A few of the early 
Roman Hyacinths may be out by this time, but 
those of the ordinary Dutch type will not flower 
for a month or more yet, unless forced in a strong 
heat. The waxy white, or crimson cup of a 
Camellia may be showing itself here and there, 
and the long spikes of the Epacris are fully out, 
and make a goodly show. The pretty Correa, 
too, is now in full bloom, and is sure to attract 
attention. It is, however, too soon for Cinerarias 
to expand, though they will do so readily in 
purer air, still they are coming on, and if we can 
keep them clean and growing will be beautiful 
by and bye. There are many other plants, such 
as the Heliotrope and Abutilon, which we find 
a very hard matter to induce to flower in the 
winter. But patience ! Let us keep them in 
health through the dark days, and they will 
reward us when spring time comes round again. 

B. 0. R. 


HEATING AMATEURS’ GREENHOUSES. 

It may sometimes happen that the owners of 
plant-houses, through the absence of a regular 
attendant, or, perhaps, from a wish to manage 
such structures without assistance, do not like to 
invest money in a boiler and the usual collection 
of pipes and other appliances connected with 
hot-water heating. The thing seems to be too 
complicated, and to require such an amount of 
attendance by day and night as cannot be 
assured to it. In such a case I would strongly 
advise a return to the old-fashioned flue, with 
some slight modification. This flue, or smoke 
canal was usually built free on all sides, the 
bottom even in some instances beiDg supported 
at intervals by bricks laid transversely. The 
sides were built of tiles placed vertically, and 
the top with thickish tiles, usually having 
depressions made in them to hold water for 
supplying atmospheric moisture. These fleee 
could be made warm enough to keep out any 
amount of cold, but the effects of the dry heat 
from the sides were such that in spite of the 
evaporating pans, tender-leaved plants suffered 
much from etiolation and from the ravages of 
red spider and thrips. Owing also to the large 
heating surface, the temperature was but little 
under control. 

There is, however, a method of making a flue 
which obviates many of the defects just alluded 
to, and which, instead of the dry, pernicioui 
warmth emitted by the old-fashioned flue, can 
be made to supply a moist, gently diffused 
warmth, particularly enjoyed by stove plants, 
Orchids, or for forcing-houses of any sort. I 
am writing from experience of this method, and 
can therefore state confidently that it is fairly 
under control, the more especially when coke 
and breeze are burnt. In this case the flue 
must be 18 inches in width and 15 inches deep. 
It may return on itself or may go direct from 
the furnace to the chimney, and this latter is 
the better plan if the bouse is more than 10 feet 
in length. It is necessary that the sides be built 
of ordinary brick; the bottom may be made of 
concrete, except for about 4 feet from the fire, 
where firebrick must be used, as also for the 
inner lining of the furnace. The top of the flue 
must be covered with cast-iron plates, neatly 
overlapping and made smoke-tight with fire clay. 
This flue must be built with a running level of 
1 foot in 30 feet, and should be built in the 
gronnd of the house, so that not more than 
4 inches to 8 inches of the sides appear above 
the ground level. Such a flue not only gives off 
a moist heat owiDg to the contiguity of the 
damp soil of the house, but warms that soil for 
a distance of 4 feet from itself, thereby adding 
to its heating capability and preventing a sud¬ 
den fall in temperature between midnight and 
morning. The iron plates may be covered with 
sand, which can be kept moist or otherwise as may 
seem desirable. Water can be poured down by 
the flue sides for the same purpose. I have 
found such a method of heating well adapted 
for houses that were below the ground level, 
and which were tarnished with gravel or shingle 
paths, and where moist air was desired. The 
best position for them is around the outer walls 
of the structure, under the staging, or disguised 
nnder lightly-placed rockwork. S. 


GAS, OIL, AND COKE HEATING. 

(Continued from page 408.) 

I?r speaking of gas and oil as fuel for wann¬ 
ing greenhouses, their use is almost limited to 
stoves with or without flues. If the house is 
sufficiently large, or the heat required so great it 
that it is necessary to have hot-water pipes in 
the house, it is not advisable to try oil at all for <i 
the purpose, and to use gas only where the h 
quantity of piping does not exceed 100 feet of i. 
2-inch diameter. There are gas boilers heating i| 
200 and up to 500 feet of pipes where certain t 
circumstances prevent an ordinary coke-fed 
boiler being fixed, and one of the most power- 
ful is called tho “ Alexandra," composed of 
a series of copper tubes arranged in layers oyer iq 
the gas jets, in a neat cast iron casing, fitted with 
a condenser, which prevents the great danger in- sh; 
cident to all gas boilers—down draught-and i*j 
does away with the necessity for a fine pipe, 
while condensing most of the vapour from burn- ^ 
ing gas. It must be outside the house, as s, 
boilers of every description should be, except- 
ing those few which, arc specially constructed to 
light or feed from the outside. 1 cannot give n i 


a * tJ 



Dec. 29, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


489 


price list of all the things that are mentioned 
in these papers, nor the makers or dealers’ 
names, bnt as much annoyance and unnecessary 
correspondence is caused from want of some 
idea of the cost of certain goods, I may say at 
once that the smallest size of this boiler, barn- 
ing 8 feet to 10 feet of gas hourly, to heat 50 
feet of 2-inch pipe, costs about A!3 10s. There 
are other boilers made in cheaper materials 
which answer well for a time, but are not so 
durable, or so economical of gas. The “ Syphon" 
gas stoves are from 55s. upwards. Oil stoves 
and apparatus, with prices, are advertised every 
week in this paper. 

Boilers. —There are names enough (some of 
them very fanciful and some of them very 
catching) to bother any amateur wishing to heat 
his greenhouse, and in choosing one, the buyer 
should be guided by the advice of a proper hot- 
water engineer, who has been used to green¬ 
house work, which is a different class of work to 
ordinary hot-water supply for a bath or the 
kitchen. It is scarcely possible to give a correct 
summary of them (the same boiler in one case 
having eight different names), but all resolve 
themselves into two general forms—horizontal 
and vertical. The saddle or arch boiler, set in 
brickwork, is about the oldest and most common 
in actual use, but during the last seven years the 
upright cylindrical forms of independent boilers 
have taken the lead, and for the purpose of this 
article, these need to be the more fully described. 
At the same time, many persons prefer the old 
saddle, as they can burn any rubbish under it, 
which prevents their noticing its general waste¬ 
fulness of fuel, so that a few words may be 
allowed to describe its setting and the reasons 
for its waste. The form of the boiler is that of 
an arch or inverted U; the smallest useful size 
being about 16 inches long, !) inches high, and 
9 wide inside the arch, its thickness about 
2 inches, which leaves 14 inches for the water 
space alt round, as the iron is quarter of an inch 
thick. It rests on a foundation of brickwork 
9 inches to 12 inches high and 14 inches wide at 
each side ; between these side pieces the fire-bars 
are laid, resting on iron bearers built into the 
brickwork. At tbe back, and 4 inches clear of 
boiler, is a fireclay or brick end, the upper part 
of which is arched to fit close to boiler, leaving 
open spaces below for the fire or flames to pass 
along right and left on the outside of boiler. 
Side walls are carried up 4 inches clear of boiler, 
and at 9 inches high are built over to touch the 
boiler, thus forming side flues. These flues then 
meet in front, and are usually carried back over 
centre of boiler in an arched space, 4 inches 
high, to a chimney at end 8 feet high. In front 
there is a furnace door built in the wall by 
which to put in the fuel, and another small 
door below to clear out the ashes. Small doors 
or soot-plugs are left in the front brickwork to 
sweep tbe flues clear of soot, or they would soon 
choke np. In use, the fire is made on the bars, 
and it heats the boiler above and around it, bnt, 
as anyone can judge for himself, the flames must 
strike with the greatest force on the brick end, 
whence they pass by side flues and over the top 
to chimney. Actual experiments prove that the 
heat spent on the brick setting of a common 
saddle boiler is equal to that absorbed by the 
boiler itself. The common theory that the brick¬ 
work gives back its heat to the boiler is pure 
fiction. The writer has had red hot pieces of 
iron held 1 inch distance f rom asmall saddle boiler 
made of tin, and they would not raise the 
temperature of water inside 1°. What, then, 
can be expected when the boiler is made of 
J-inch iron. This useless absorption of heat by 
the brickwork is the chief form of waste in a 
saddle boiler. Some waste may be checked by 
the adjustment of ventilator in ashpit door, and 
the use of a damper in chimney, but so long as 
the end of a boiler is open and formed by brick¬ 
work, the greatest heat must be there, and not in 
the boiler. To utilise this heat, the improved 
saddles have one end entirely or partially closed 
with a return of the sides of boiler, adding con¬ 
siderably to its heating power, as also to its cost. 
In order to get a larger space for fuel to last 
eight hours, the boiler is often raised two courses 
of bricks above the fire-bars, but tbis, also, is 
wasteful, as the body of radiant fire for the 
whole length of boiler is burning these brick 
sides, the cooler unbumt fuel being above or 
next the boiler. The fire is first spent in making 
the bricks red hot, and in 
help to make the fresh 


price of a small saddle is about £3 with 
its furnance fittings, and fire-brick setting will 
cost at least £1 more. Now in an upright or 
cylindrical boiler set in brickwork, this waste is 
still greater, because the natural tendency of heat 
is to rise, and with an open top tbe fire has little 
chance of warming the sides of boiler. Yet 
nearly all the independent boilers, which are 
driving out the saddles, are of this form; but 
here the principle of 

Slow combustion steps in and checks what 
would be—but for it—the more wasteful boiler. 
The ordinary small size of these is about 12-inches 
deep and 6 inches in diameter inside. The fire 
bars lie 3 inches below, surrounded by cast-iron 
base piece with small door, and the fuel is added 
from above, so that the escaping heat has to pass 
through the unburnt fuel or be absorbed by the 
boiler, which forms a ring of water round the 
fire. All these boilers have necessarily a very 
small area of fire bars, and it is therefore impos¬ 
sible to admit more than one-third the amount 
of air to keep the fire going that is drawn under 
a saddle boiler with its longer bars. As the 
amount of air supplied regulates the speed with 
which the fire burns, so it happens that though 
there is a less body of fire or fuel in an upright 
slow combustion boiler, it gives off much more 
of its heat to the boiler, and none to an absor¬ 
bent mass of brickwork, as in a saddle. The 
principle of slow combustion cannot well be ap¬ 
plied to saddle boilers, owing to the large flue 
space and the necessity for chimney being 
almost directly over the fire, to get the necessary 
draught to keep fire going with such a small 
supply of oxygen or air. 

As to the boilers themselves, they are mostly, 
as I have said, plain cylinders on end, or slightly 
conical, so as to contract the opening above and 
give more boiler surface for fire to act upon. 
Larger sizes are made with a flat or domed top, 
also containing water, so that no heat shall be 
wasted, the smoke escaping by a small opening 
on one side near the top. Wrought iron welded 
into these shapes is now more usual than east 
iron, is about as cheap, and is generally con¬ 
sidered safer, cast iron being liable to fracture. 
Some very cheap makes are so badly put 
together, that after a time the expansive pres¬ 
sure of hot water forces the welded joints, and 
they leak. The chief point for a critical buyer 
to look at, is the amount of fire space and the 
extent of boiler surface exposed to the fire. The 
small size named above contains so small a 
quantity of fuel that it is next to impossible to 
make it last six hours without attention. To 
remedy this, they are made with an extended 
hopper or top feeder—an iron cylinder above 
the smoke outlet, which is filled with fuel that 
gradually falls down as the fire burns below— 
but the cost of this extended feeder is almost 
invariably more than the cost of next size of 
boiler without it; so that (as a rule) it is better 
to get a larger size which will hold about same 
fuel, and at the same time expose a larger sur¬ 
face of boiler to the fire. For instance, the 
“ Star,” “ Economic,” or “ Amateur's ” boiler of 
smallest size is usually sold at 48s.; its fuel 
space is 16 inches high by 6 inches in diameter, 
or 450 cubic inches, and extended feeder adds 
los. to cost, and about 400 cubic inches; but the 
fire space of next size boiler is 20 inches deep by 
8 inches in diameter, or over 1000 cubic inches, 
and sells at £3 ; this has an internal boiler 
surface equal to 400 square inches, while the 
former has only 230 inches. In finding out 
the heating power of a boiler, it is usually calcu¬ 
lated that every 3 square inches of boiler surface 
exposed to direct action of fire are capable of 
heating 1 foot of 4-inch pipe, so that in the 
cases referred to the larger boiler will heat 130 
feet of 4 inch pipe, and the smaller one only 70 
feet, as the extended feeder does not increase 
the actual heating power, bnt only enables it to 
keep up that power for a longer time. Many 
complaints are made that, though a fire will last 
ten hours, there is little heat in the pipes, and it 
is supposed, therefore, that the boiler is not 
powerful enough to do the work assigned it, the 
cause often being that there is not sufficient 
heat given off in the fire-box to warm the water 
in boiler. You can burn your fire too slowly, as 
a given quantity of fuel will not give more heat 
if made to burn twelve hours than if burnt in 
six hours; it only gives off less heat in each 
hour. These remarks will enable any thoughtful 
reader to work out for himself many little pro¬ 
blems which may have puzzled him. 



.AH these independent boilers require to be out- 
S1 de the greenhouse, as if inside, the requisite 
attention to fire would set free such an amount 
of smoke and sulphurous fumes as to injure the 
plants. Being outside, they necessarily require 
some protection from weather and to prevent 
heat escaping outside, which has led during the 
past two years to the introduction of a cast iron 
boiler which has been so largely sold as to dis¬ 
pute the lead taken by ordinary cylindrical 
forms of the “Star” type. I allude to tbe “ Lough¬ 
borough.” Its form is 0 shaped, or that of a 
saddle on end, the top part also containing 
water. It can thus be built in the wall of a 
greenhouse without any projection outside 
beyond the furnace front and the 4 inches for 
chimney pipe, while the arch portion, extending 
inside the house,gives off as much heat as C-feet 
of hot-water pipe doee. The smallest is most 
popular, owing to its low price, but its fire space 
is rather small if it is desired to keep up a good 
heat for ten hours at a time, with the full quan¬ 
tity of pipe it is capable of heating attached to 
it. The price of next size has enabled the 
wrought iron boiler makers to produce a com¬ 
peting one at a lower price of greater power, 
owing to the front of these being made to con¬ 
tain water, and thus add to the heating surface 
inside, while entirely avoiding the risk attendant 
on cast iron boilers. As the question of a few 
shillings in cost largely affects the decision of a 
purchaser, it should in fairness be pointed out 
that the cast iron boilers have their flow and 
return sockets cast on to connect direct with 
pipes of same size, but in wrought iron makes the 
sockets have to be attached separately, and 
being only 1J inches or 2 inches bore, it costs a 
little more to connect to larger pipes. Another 
boilercalledthe“Horseshoe "isa!mosta foe-simile 
of “ Loughborough,’' but cast in one piece down 
to ground line, instead of having a loose base to 
stand on, at the joining of which dust and fumes 
might enter the house. The least height occu¬ 
pied is 21 inches and 27 inches respectively, and 
as the flow pipe must go from top of boiler, this 
height is the lowest the pipes inside can be 
fixed at, unless the boiler is sunk. If the pipes 
must be taken across underneath a path or door¬ 
way, a stokehole is as necessary as with any 
other boiler. There is also a small cast-iron 
boiler of the conical cylinder form (or “ Star ” 
type) called “ Little Hero,” in which the pipe 
outlets are only 18 inches high above floor level, 
and, having a top fuel reserve to last nine hours, 
it is a capital boiler for 18 feet to 30 feet of 
4-inch pipe. 

To meet the case of persons having a low stage 
or an end wall less than 20 inches high (who do 
not wish to occupy space outside), and also to 
meet the demand for an old-fashioned saddle 
(which most gardeners think cannot be beaten) 
—at the same time to ensure the fire-heat being 
spent on boiler surface and not on useless iron 
framing—a boiler called the “London” was 
brought out a short time ago. It is a saddle 
boiler with closed waterway end, against which 
the flame strikes and then passes by an upper 
flue (within the boiler) to an outlet and chimney 
in front above the feeder. Being 21 inches long 
and 19 inches high outside in its second size, it 
exposes a large heat-absorbing surface internally 
and a large heat-radiating surface externally, 
while its price is low. In very few places indeed 
is it possible to attach circulating pipes to a 
kitchen boiler, and even then it is not economi¬ 
cal for night use, as a large open fire must be 
kept going all the time. Besides these boilers, 
there are coils of wrought iron pipe set in brick¬ 
work, which absorb a fair amount of heat and 
cause a rapid circulation. They are also arranged 
in independent form with sheet iron cases, on 
the slow combustion principle, and are still very 
popular, though the fire bums away the casing 
in a few years. Cast iron tubular boilers set in 
brickwork have been much patronised where fuel 
is cheap, and there is over 200 feet of pipe to be 
heated, but the general use of them is dying out 
owing to their wastefulness and riskiness as 
compared with wrought iron boilers. It must be 
admitted that a cast iron boiler will not corrode 
so quickly as a wrought iron one if exposed in a 
damp stokehole. A very simple boiler of wedge 
shape hung over a fire in a small well of brick¬ 
work is liked because of its low price (about a 
guinea), exclusive of setting and connections. 

The best fuel for all slow combustion boilers 
is coke broken to size of a walnut, mixed with 
sifted house cinders, The ordinary bitaminous 



490 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Dec 29, 1883. 


coal will not do, as it swells and sticks in the 
feeder or top of a boiler, cansing the fire below 
to burn ont for want of more fuel. Anthracite 
coal is safe, but, being very hard, requires to be 
broken small like the coke, as large pieces can¬ 
not burn through without a good draught. Any 
fuel that makes too much ash will choke the 
fire bars, and prevent the supply of air to keep 
remainder burning. No one can find out exactly, 
till used several nights, the exact quantity of air 
to admit in changeable weather so as to make a 
fire last ten hours. Stoves without boiler or 
pipes are occasionally used, but cannot be recom¬ 
mended, as they give a scorching dry heat for a 
few feet away, leaving the most exposed parts 
of the house comparatively cold. Their cost is 
not less than a hot-water apparatus, either for 
first expense or for fuel afterwards, except in afew 
exceptional circumstances, while the old- 
fashioned flues are certainly not economical from 
any point of view. The theory of hot-water 
circulation has been so often explained, it is not 
necessary to enter into it here, Out the quantity 
of pipes and their position is sometimes more 
important than the boiler; and a simple 
method of judging the proper quantity of piping 
is, 1 foot of 4-inch pipe (or 2 feet of 2-inch) to 
each 20 or 40 cubic feet of air space to be 
warmed. A house 20 feet loDg, 10 feet wide, 
and from 5 feet to 9 feet high contains. 1400 
cubic feet of air, which divided by 20 gives 70 
feet of 4-inch pipe to obtain forcing heat, or 
divided by 40 will give 35 feet for keeping out 
frost. The length and diameter of hot-water 
pipes are a common source of needless confusion. 
In order to make a big figure, tbc boiler makers 
put their heating power as so many feet of 
2-inch pipe, and thoughtless engineers simply 
Bay " to heat 100 feet of pipe,” without noticing 
the size of pipe. Now, it rarely happens that 
Buch small pipes are used (except for gas boilers), 
and so a boiler is over-taxed. As a rule, 80 feet 
of 4-inch or 120 feet of 3-inch is the safe equiva¬ 
lent of 200 feet of 2-inch. It is tire radiating 
or external surface of pipe that gives off the 
heat, so that 4-inch pipes in 9 feet lengths come 
cheaper than double the length of 2-inch pipes 
which are only cast 6 feet long and require three 
times the number of joints to be made ; but gas, 
having so little heating power compared with 
coke, comes much more expensive in the burning 
if it has to heat 25 gallons of water in 50 feet of 
4-inch than if it heats 100 feet of 2-inch pipes 
containing only 12 gallons of water. The whole 
length of piping, including bends, Ac., must be 
reckoned, so that a span-roof house 16 feet by 11 
feet.with flow and return each side and one end, 
will take six 9-feet and four 6-feet lengths, also 
four bends and elbows, which will measure over 
all 84 feet long, besides the connection through 
wall to the boiler, if outside. Whatever heating 
arrangement you adopt, do not wait till frost 
comes before lighting up, or it may be impossible 
to get np sufficient heat in time to save your 
plants; or, if saved by rapid forcing of heat, the 
process of raising temperature 20° to 30° in a 
very short time may be equally risky. Though 
not connected with the subjeot of how to get the 
heat here treated of, amateurs may be cautioned 
against a prevalent notion that to keep a few 
flowering plants safely, the house must he kept 
up to about 60° or 70°. In winter, 45° to 50° with 
artificial heat is quite enough, as a rule, for 
any greenhouse plant. B. W. W. 


FRUIT. 

LIFTING OLD GOOSEBERRY" BUSHES. 

A correspondent in GARDENING}, in an article 
under the above heading, stated his opinion that 
the dying off by piecemeal of Gooseberry bushes 
is the result of the restrictive system of pruning. 
It seems quite probable that the constant clip¬ 
ping off of the young wood which the system in¬ 
volves is, if not the immediate, the predisposing 
cause of the disease. Two years ago a gentle¬ 
man had occasion to change gardeners. The 
new gardener, finding that the Gooseberry bushes 
(which had been pruned on the restrictive sys¬ 
tem) were in a very bad state, essayed to put 
new life iDto them by a different mode of 
pruning. He ent ont all the dead wood, left 
what young wood there was that was rightly 
placed, and out- back some of the old branches to 
induce a break of new wood. The next year he 
removed more qf -t^ie old wood. The season fol¬ 
lowing the ftu* wa9.trmcli ipnrpved in quality 


He has now just pruned them the third time, 
and many of the bushes have all the old wood 
replaced with new, and they present quite a 
healthy appearance. It would, of course, be illo¬ 
gical to arrive at a general conclusion from a 
premise derived from a single instance, but if we 
find that the conclusion is in accordance with 
the general order of Nature, I think it might be 
more deserving of consideration. If we en¬ 
quire of Nature,we shall find that death and new 
life are the essential conditions of health and 
vigour to all living organised existence. 

The decrepit state of wall-fruit trees that 
have for years filled their allotted space, and the 
new life imparted to them by cutting them back 
and allowing them to refil the space with young 
wood, the rejuvenescence produced in appa¬ 
rently worn-out espalier fruit trees by convert¬ 
ing them into standards, the advantage derived 
from allowing a new vine rod to replace an old 
one that has begun to fail, and the short life of 
standard Roses, all seem to be corroborative of 
the opinions here expressed. An arrangement 
analogous to wbat is observed in the stem and 
branches obtains in the roots, hence the advan¬ 
tage of allowing the roots of vines to freely 
extend, as advocated by Mr. Groom. If vigour 
of growth and longevity in the tree were the 
sole or even the principal object of the fruit 
grower, then if the views expressed by the fore¬ 
going remarks be correct, the advocates of the 
restrictive system of pruning cannot have a leg 
to stand npon; but however necessary or advan¬ 
tageous these objects might be, they have to 
give way in impoi tance to that much more weighty 
consideration of. the cultivator, viz., the question 
of fruitiulness. The question now arises— 
Does the extension system of pruning, whilst it 
provides for and promotes the first two objects, 
militate against the attainment of the last ! 1 
think not; and I feel convinced that if the most 
strenuous advocate of the other method were to 
read the small work on pruning (advertised in 
this journal) by Mr. Simpson, the able enun- 
ciator of the system, he would at least perceive 
that there can something be said even from this 
important point of view in its favour. Of course, 
the exigencies of vine management and of wall 
fruit, espalier, and bush fruit culture precludes 
its being carried out in its integrity. Another 
consideration sometimes requires a modification 
in its practice, viz., the mechanical strength of 
the tree to support its load of fruit. Over¬ 
cropping by retarding the growth of the tree has 
an effect similar to close pruning. It might be 
well to mention, to prevent misconception, that 
the reason I did not mention the theory of some 
biologists of the present day, that “ A tree or a 
shrub or other branching plant may be regarded 
as a colony of plants (analogous to coral polypes) 
all living in common, but each drawing nourish¬ 
ment from the soil and air, and digesting it for 
the common benefit of the family group," was 
because whether this view be taken, or it be con¬ 
sidered that each branch or twig is a part of the 
same individual, the original argument is not 
differently affected. L. C. K. 


l’ROFAGATING SMALL FRUITS. 
There are many small gardens both in the 
country and also in the neighbourhood of towns 
in which Apple, Pear, Plum, Peach, and other 
large-growing fruit trees cannot be accommo¬ 
dated with profit or advantage; but there are 
few gardens indeed in which a few Gooseberry, 
Currant, Raspberry, or Strawberry plants cannot 
be grown with satisfaction, and while season 
after season may pass without one fruit being 
obtained from a Peach tree, small fruits rarely 
fail to bear and do well. All the more reason, 
therefore, why we should press for their general 
and extended cultivation. Apart from their 
ordinary culture, at all times easy enough, there 
is both pleasure and profit to be derived from 
their propagation, and now is the season for 
attending to this matter. Only superior varie¬ 
ties of anything should be increased; inferior 
sorts should be cleared out as soon as possible, 
there being no economy in retaining them. 

Gooseberry and Currant bushes in ordi- 
nary health will have made many shoots during 
the past season—many of them probably a foot 
or more in length, and it is young wood of this 
kind which should be selected as cuttings. Some 
when they prune their Gooseberry and Currant 
bushes allow the prunings to fall to the ground, 
gathering up and selecting those suitable for 


cuttings afterwards, hut where close together 
the kinds are liable to get intermixed; there¬ 
fore the better plan is to go over the bushes 
before the general pruning is begun and select 
all that are required for propagation. The beat 
developed, cleanest, and most matured looking 
of the shoots only should be taken; they should 
be cut off at the desired length, tied np in a 
bundle, and named previous to covering up their 
ends with soil in any of the kitchen garden 
quarters. Red and White Currants are easiest 
propagated from enttings, but we have fre. 
quently secured young Black Currants from the 
sucker-like growths that are often emitted from 
old bushes. These off shoots have always roots 
attached to them, and may be lifted and planted 
again without being treated as cuttings. Apart 
from this way Black Currants may be propagated 
like the others. If the cuttings are selected now 
before they are spoiled or lost in pruning, the 
other operations connected with them need not 
be hurried, as they will be in good time if 
placed in their rooting quarters in March. The 
main goint now is to get the ends of them 
placed in the soil to prevent them from shrivel¬ 
ling or drying up, and when convenient they 
can be taken up and dressed ready for plant¬ 
ing. This kind of work we generally do on a 
wet day under cover. The cuttings are out into 
lengths from 12 inches to 18 inches, according 
to the height the stems are desired tobe. All 
the buds are then cut out excepting three or 
four at the top, which are left to grow and form 
the first year’s branches. After being made they 
may either be bund led together again for a timeor 
they may be placed properly in the soil for 
rooting. We generally root them in some spare 
corner where the soil is rather sandy. We dibble 
them in rows 15 inches apart and 6 inches be¬ 
tween each cutting in the row ; 3 inches is quite 
enough under the soil for rooting, and they can¬ 
not be made too firm. When the bushes begin 
to become green they form leaves too, and make 
roots very early in spring, and strong, healthy 
shoots the first season. They should be hoed 
between as weeds appear, but no other attention 
except this is needed. We have sometimes al¬ 
lowed them to remain in the cutting ground 
over the second year, but they must be moved 
to good ground and given plenty of space be¬ 
fore the third season, as by that time they will 
have become good sized bushes and will bear 
some fruit. Pruning and dressing of the ordi¬ 
nary kind then comes into annual practice, and 
I am sure that amongst the many pleasures 
which amateur cultivators derive from their gar¬ 
dens, few will be greater than gathering fruit 
from bushes of their own rearing. 

Raspberries are still more easily dealt with, 
the best way to increase them being simply 
to lift the side suckers which are annually 
thrown ont from old stools, and plant them in 
rows in fresh ground to form new plantations. 
When these young canes are moderately stroog, 
they bear fruit the first season. 

Strawberries.— The best time to increase 
Strawberries is in August, when plenty of young 
runners can be had from, the old plants; but 
where runners are allowed to remain on til 
winter, the best of them may be lifted and 
planted whenever suitable weather occurs in 
spring. C. 


BOUQUET OF EVERLASTING FLOWERS. 
During winter, when blossoms in a fresh state 
are scarce, dried flowers, or Everlastings as they 
are generally called, form a good substitute, and 
are very acceptable for room decoration. If 
they lack the brisk sweetness of newly-gathered 
flowers, they have the advantage of being per¬ 
manent, and when tastefully arranged amongst 
Grasses and Fern fronds have a really pretty 
effect—better by far than tawdry imitation 
flowers of unnatural shape and colour now made 
so largely to take the place of fresh flowers. 
Our continental neighbours seem to have a wider 
appreciation of dried flowers than we have, and, 
besides, they appear to have a better way as re¬ 
gards manipulating them, especially in Germany. 
Moreover, they do not confine themselves to 
Everlastings in the general sense of the term, 
but extend the drying process to plants which 
we never hear of being dried for ornament—a 
fact fully represented in the annexed illustra¬ 
tion. Those shown in this case are mostly ah 
mountain flowers. At the top is Astrantia minor, 
an urobellrferonR plant with pirfe'sh bracts. 
Below it is Gnaphalium ma guritaceum in corn- 


Dec. 29. ! 893-1 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 



Bouquet of Everlasting Flowers. 


Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Digitized by Google 










GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Dec. 20, 1883. 


pany with its ally the Edelweiss (Leontopodimn 
alpinum), which, as every alpine tourist knows, 
dries capitally. The other flowers in the bouquet 
are the alpine Eryngium, of which the big 
flower in the centre is a good illustration. The 
Cornflower-like bloom appears to be Centaurea 
montana,and that immediately below it Senesio 
Balbisianus ; while the lowest flower of all is a 
little mountain Milfoil (Achillea). To many 
these flowers would appear to be very unlikely 
subjects to select for Everlastings, but such 
indeed they are if carefully dried. 

VEGETABLES. 

FORCING VEGETABLES. 

Asparagus. —There are several kinds of vege- 
ables which lend themselves very readily to 
forcing, and none more so than Asparagus, which 
is the most delicious and wholesome of all gar¬ 
den esculents, and one that is quite deserving 
of much more extended cultivation than it now 
receives, as in few places does one meet with it 
in any quantity, and it is very easy te manage 
and grow. This is a matter, however, that I do 
not intend to go into now, but to show how it 
may be forced, the first thing towards this being 
the preparation of the manure and frame, which 
should be got quite ready before the roots are dis¬ 
turbed. The most suitable manure for affording 
bottom heat, which is quite indispensable in the 
forcing of Asparagus, is that from stables, with 
a good proportion of straw in it, and if fresh 
fallen leaves can be got to mix with it 
all the better, as the leaves help greatly to 
modify the fermentation and prolong the time 
that it lasts. To sweoten the whole and let out 
the noxious gases, the manure and leaves should 
be thrown in a large heap together, and when 
hot turned over, and if this process is repeated 
once or twice it will then be ready for 
use. The next thing is to get it into the pit, or 
to build it up for standing a frame on, which 
done, 6 inches or so of rotten leaves or very light 
rich soil should be shaken or placed over 
it to keep it from coming iu too close con¬ 
tact with the Asparagus. To have this good, 
strong crowns must be selected and taken up 
with care, so as to secure as many roots as pos¬ 
sible, which can only be done by working at one 
end of the bed in a systematic way, and so clear¬ 
ing the earth from the plants as the lifting pro¬ 
ceeds. 

When up, the crowns should at once be wheeled 
to the frame and packed flat together as closely 
as they will go, as the room there is valuable, 
and the thing is to get it to hold as many as can 
be got in without unduly crowding or pressing 
each other, but in putting them in great care is 
requisite to well fill up the spaces between. This 
ought to be done with light rich soil, that 
the young roots when they form may have 
something to feed on; and to ensure the soil 
being carried properly in it is agood plan to give 
a soaking of tepid water, which will warm it and 
help to give the plants a good start. Till the 
shoots appear above ground no air need be given, 
as by keeping the frame close, growth is expe¬ 
dited and the most made of the heat; butwhen the 
shoots can fairly be seen a little air is necessary 
to prevent them from drawing and to give them 
flavour. This latter quality may be added to by 
foil exposure to the light, so as to get the Aspa¬ 
ragus green instead of blanched, as when in the 
latter condition it is generally poor and insipid. 
The worst part about the forcing of Asparagus 
by taking it up and putting it in frames is that 
it destroys the beds ; but there is an old saying 
that “ you canot eat your cake and have it too,” 
and yet this apparent impossibility is partly got 
over in the matter of Asparagus by forcing it 
where it stands. This may be done by digging 
out a wide, deep trench between the beds and 
filling it with hot manure, which can be renewed 
again and again as occasion requires. Of course 
Asparagus cannot be obtained so early this way, 
but it may be forwarded considerably, and by 
adopting the plan a long succession is kept up. 
Any old lights do to cover the beds and ward off 
frost, the effects of which are fatal to the tender 
tops of the plants, killing them at once. 

Potatoes. —Frames made up in the way re¬ 
ferred to with hot manure come in admirably 
for forcing Potatoes, which thrive splendidly on 
a little bottom heat, and yield a great number 
of tubers. The,, best sorts for the work are 
the Ashleaf kinta. M^ayL ; moat pro¬ 


lific and one of the hardiest. If it is not conve¬ 
nient to make up frames at once, the Potatoes 
may be started by potting them singly in small 
pots, or laying them in boxes of sifted leaf- 
mould, by doing which they may be planted out 
or lifted with balls and plenty of roots without 
much disturbance. Any warm place does to 
start them in, as they do not require light till 
they begin to grow and show their tops, when 
they should be planted at once. The soil most 
suitable for the culture of Potatoes in frames is 
a light rich sandy one, in which the sets should 
be planted in rows about 1 foot apart and 
9 inches from tuber to tuber. The space between 
may be turned to good account for growing 
Lettuces, Radishes, Mustard and Cress, or 
pricking out and forwarding young Cauliflower, 
as any or all of these will be out of the way byjthe 
time the tops of the Potatoes spread and require 
the room. What injures Potatoes in frames more 
than anything else is the coddling they are often 
subjected to by keeping them close, which is a 
great mistake, as though they like artificial heat 
below they will not bear it at the top without 
drawing and becoming weak in the stem. To 
prevent this, they should have air on all favour¬ 
able occasions, and be grown up near the glass, 
that they may have all the sun and light which 
the early season affords. S. 

Potatoes.— No one can charge the contri¬ 
butors to Gardening with selfishness, for they 
are always ready to give the results of their ex¬ 
perience to their fellow readers. Allow me to 
follow suit, and to recommend my brother 
readers to plant next spring some White Ele¬ 
phant Potatoes. In the early part of this year I 
happened to be staying for a day or two in Nor¬ 
wich, and I brought back with me a small parcel 
of seed tubers by way of trial. I knew no one 
who had grown them, but the illustration in 
catalogues attracted me. I own that I was 
doubtful as to the probable quality of the new 
sort, but there was no harm in trying. I can 
now say that until something better turns up I 
will never be without them. They are very pro¬ 
lific bearers, and are unusually large. Rut wbat 
is far better, their quality when cooked is quite 
first rate. For baking I consider them un¬ 
equalled, as the skin is extremely thin, the eyes 
very shallow, and they are, when cooked, balls 
of flour. This judgment is worth something, 
inasmuch as mine is not good Potato land, being 
a rather heavy rich loam—a soil in which I can¬ 
not grow Early Rose, say fit to eat. ■ I feel cer¬ 
tain that those who try them will be grateful for 
the introduction. I had mine planted in rows a 
foot wider apart than is ordinarily the custom, 
and the plan certainly answered. My own 
opinion is that, as a rule. Potatoes are planted 
too close, and that even in a contracted garden 
nothing is lost, but the reverse, by giving the 
plants plenty of room. It would certainly be a 
mistake not to allow the White Elephants 
plenty of space to develop.—J. Edward Vaux, 
Orondall , Hants. 

New Potatoea at Christmas —I have 
sent you as samples a few young Potatoes that 
I have just dug up in my garden, thinking some 
of your readers would like to know how I grow 
them to have young Potatoes at Christmas. I 
plant about the end of July, and as soon as I 
find the tubers are as large as I want them (I 
never allow them to become too large), I cut off 
the tops close to the ground and hoe them up 
again to cover the tubers over. I then cover 
them over with straw or light litter, to prevent 
the frost getting to them, and likewise to prevent 
the ground being frozen, to allow me to get them 
up.—G. J. Whittkll —[The tubers were clean 
and sound, and of good quality.—E d.] 

OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

An amateur’s flower garden.— As you 
have printed my letter about my small green¬ 
houses, on which I may say no money is ex¬ 
pended, perhaps you will allow me further to 
give ray experience as an outdoor gardener. The 
ground does not suit either bedding plants or 
annuals well, being very hot, dry, light, and ex¬ 
posed. Bulbs and permanent plants do very 
well, also I prefer them. As I have to do almost 
all my gardening with my own hands, the things 
taking least trouble and expense are preferable. 
I have, therefore, collected an immense variety 
1 of old-fashioned plants, of half of which I know 


only the beauty, not the names. To give each 
of these a local habitation, at least, was my 
object; to form such a garden as should give a 
settled home for every plant of which I had a 
few roots. I have two bits of garden, east and 
west. The west borders a straight walk up a bill. 
In the Grass I cut six large squares, inter¬ 
secting these first with very narrow Grass lines 
so as to form a kind of inlaid pattern. I found 
the Grass too troublesome to keep as inter¬ 
secting lines, so replaced with Box. My plan 
gives me eight little beds. I have every bed full of 
bulbs, each carpeted with some spring plant— 
Cress, Daisies, Pansies, or such like. The 
bulbs spring up through these, and are quite 
lovely—large double yellow Tulips, for instance, 
on a floor of blue Viola. They were exquisite 
last spring, though, owing to my absence, they 
had no care at all. Before the bulbs have well 
died down, I begin to get in Geraniums, ,tc. 
Owing to the very hot nature of the garden, I 
find it very hard to make a good summer garden, 
but all the permanent, low-clothing plants pre¬ 
vent its ever looking bare. Of course, with three 
or four sets of plants one over another like this, 
the beds want occasional renewing, but by 
watching a suitable time, one of these little beds 
can be turned out entirely, well filled with ma¬ 
nure, and started for a new course of beauty 
without damaging the effect of the garden; 
and this is constantly going on one at a time 
as seems needful. Lots of plants do perfectly 
well one with another. For instance, in one bed 
1 had Gazanias all last summer, yet the Daises, 
Anemone fulgens, and white Saxifrage are all 
now in full grow th, as well as possible, all the 
better, I think, for having been kept cool under 
the other plants, though the Daises seemed fora 
while rather overpowered. These little beds 
form admirable rearing places for getting up 
stocks of plants and for reserves. I seldom, 
therefore, am at a loss to fill the east garden 
with its larger beds on the more usual system. 
I am trying this year to winter oat Heliotropes, 
Verbenas, and Calceolarias by having gla‘s 
covers for two of these little beds, so that I 
have not stirred the plants, only covered in with 
tuif-mould, and when a hard frost threatens, I 
put on the glass caps. But my experience is for 
those who, like myself, must do their own work, 
must avoid flower catalogues, can afford neither 
frames nor heated greenhouses, nor hampers 
from nurseries. Vet, I think, next spring, if the 
winter is not too severe, I shall be able to show 
as pretty an outdoor garden as any in the country 
for its size.— Charlotte G. O'Brien. 

10765 — The Polyanthus —This is one of 
the choice flowers of the old-fashioned florists, 
and it is one that there has been much difference 
of opinion upon, both as to the best method of 
culture, the quality and form of the flowers, as 
well as their colour. There is no doubt that tie 
laced Polyanthus holds a high place in the regard 
of the florist, and when well grown, most people 
would say that a mass of choice Polyanthuses in 
flower is a very beautiful sight, and one well 
worth taking considerable pains to produce. 
In the first place, the old fashioned varieties are 
rather scarce, and those who are fortunate enough 
to obtain them, are anxious not only to keep 
them in health, but would also like to grow them 
Well. I have known the laced Polyanthus from 
boyhood, but am free to confess that the fint 
time I was ever likely to go into raptures over 
them was in Mr. Homer's garden at Kirkby, 
Halyeard, near Ripon. I had travelled all the 
way from London to see his Auriculas in bloom, 
but his Polyanthuses were in a house well 
shaded by a high wall, and they were at their 
best, sparkling in crimson, gold, and rich 
maroon. I shall never forget them, they made 
me a fancier for life. We have grown them verr 
well in oar own garden; indeed, their culture is 
so rimple that anybody may grow them. The 
Polyanthus is evidently a variety of the common 
Primrose, and as such is perfectly hardy, and the 
seedling forms of it stand well through the 
winter in the open border. A packet of seeds 
sown early in April will produce large 
flowering specimens, which will produce a mass 
of bloom the following spring. The tine- 
named varieties will stand out in the open 
ground in some districts, but I have not 
found them do bo in our neighbourhood 
(South Essex). Our whole collection is now i» 
pots. The plants were potted into these, or 
ought to have been, in September, but I fancy 
we were later this year. The last week in August 


S- AS *& *ro , 



Dec. 29, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


493 


or the first week in September is the best time. 
Each plant is lifted from the open ground, and 
divided into single crowns; the large ones are 
potted in 5-inch and the small ones in 4-inch 
pots. The potting material is good turfy loam 
four parts, rotten manure one part, leaf-mould 
one part, with some sharp sand if necessary. 
The plants after potting should be placed in a 
cold frame behind a north wall; the lights may 
be kept on for a week or so after potting, but 
when the plants have made roots remove them 
entirely. They will be required to protect the 
plants from very heavy rains. While in the pots 
they require more water than Auriculas, and 
must on no account be allowed to become too 
dry in winter. An Auricula plant may be quite 
dry from December until the first week in 
February—not so a Polyanthus. With the first 
days of the new year the flower trusses will be 
showing, and as the plants advance in growth, 
they will require rather more space to develop 
their leaves. They require all through the 
winter and spring plenty of air, bnt no rain, and 
the lights must be tilted against high winds; 
they last about six weeks in flower, and during 
the flowering period the bloom must be shaded 
from the sun by some thin shading. I never at 
any time give manure water. When the flower¬ 
ing time is over it will be found that the plants 
are making new roots near the surface of the 
soil in the pots. This is giving due notice that 
they must be planted out in the open ground, 
half-an-inch or so deeper than they were before. 
They ought to have rather rich moist soil to 
grow in, and they will push away rapidly, if the 
red spider does not interfere with them. This 
is a very troublesome pest, and should be de¬ 
stroyed by dipping the plants in soapy rain¬ 
water, with a pint of Tobacco liquor added to 
each gallon. They remain in the open ground 
during the months of May, June, July, and part 
of August. There are so few named sorts that 
can be obtained in the trade, that it is almost 
better not to give a list. The varieties which 
usually win at exhibitions are Cheshire Favourite 
(Saunders), Exile (Crownshaw), George the 
Fourth (Buck), Lancer (Bullock), President 
(Hilton), Prince Regent (Cox), William Fourth 
(Sannderson), Bev. F. D. Horner (Jackson).— 
J. Douglas. 

10771. —Oarnatlona and Plootees.— 

Why ask for the names of the good old sorts ) 
The new varieties are best, quite as cheap, and 
of a better constitution. The best of the old 
sorts of Carnations are: —Scarlet Bizarre* : Ad¬ 
miral Curzon (Easom), Mars (Hextall), True 
Briton (Hepworth). Crimson Bizarre*: Jenny 
Lind (Pur.ley). Rifleman (Wood), Albion's Pride 
(Headley). Pink and purple Bizarre*: Falcon- 
bridge (May), James Taylor (Gibbons), Sarah 
Payne (Ward). Purple Plates : Dr. Foster (Fos¬ 
ter!, Mayor of Nottingham (Taylor), Florence 
Nightingale (Sealey). Scarlet Flakes .- Anni- 
hilator (Jackson), John llayley (Dodwell), 
Sportsman (Hedderley). Base Flakes: James 
Jlerryweather (Wood), John Keet (Whitehead), 
Sybil (Holmes). Picotees, heavy red edge: Dr. 
Epps, John Smith (Bower), Princess of Wales 
(Fellowes). Light red edge: Thomas William 
(Flowdy), Violet Douglas (Simonite), Clara 
(Bower). Hearg purple edge : Alliance (Fel¬ 
lowes), Mrs.Summers (Simonite), Zerlina (Lord). 
Light purple edge.: Her Majesty (Addis), Mary 
(Simonite), Nymph (Lord). Hearg rose and 
scarlet edged: Edith Dombrain (Turner), Fanny 
Helen (Niven), Mrs. Payne (Payne). Light toss 
and scarlet edged: Estelle (Fellowes), Ethel 
(Fellowes), Mrs, Allcroft (Turner).—J. Dou¬ 
glas. 

-The following are three good old varieties 

in each of the classes of Bizarre and Flake Car¬ 
nations, and edges in white-ground Picotees, 
but, though old, they are still among the best in 
cultivation:— Cassations— Scarlet Bizarre* : 
Admiral Curzon(Easom), Dreadnought (Daniels), 
Sir Joseph Paxton (Ely). Crimson Bizarre*: 
L,ord Milton (Ely), Rifleman (Wood), Warrior 
( Slater). Pink and Purple Bizarre* ■. Falcon- 
bridge (May), Fanny (Dodwell), Sarah Payne 
(Ward). Purple Flakes: Premier (Milwood), 
Mayor of Nottingham (Taylor), Squire Meynell 
(Brabbin). Scarlet Flaks*: Annihilator (Jack- 
son), James Cheetham (Chadwick), Sportsman 
(Hedderley). Liate Flakes: James Merry- 
weather (Wood), Lovely Ann (Ely), Rose of 
Stapleford (Headley). Piuotees— Bed edbes: 
John Smith (Bower), Princes) o'(.JvlaieS 


(Fellowes),William Summers(Simonite). Purple 
edges : Mary (Simonite), Mrs. Summers (Simo¬ 
nite), Jessie (Turner). Bose and scarlet edges : 
Charles Williams (Norman), Empress Engfinie 
(Kirtland), Juliana (Turner).—K., Hornsey. 

10788.— Show and fancy Pansies.— 
What are usually termed show Pansies had at¬ 
tained a high state of perfection in this country 
before the fancy or Belgian Pansies were seen 
here. The show section is divided into three 
groups—first, the yellow grounds, that is all 
flowers which might be described as having a 
yellow centre, with what is termed a “belting,” 
or broad, rather irregular margin of purple or 
maroon; second, the white grounds, those with 
a white instead of a yellow centre ; third, seifs. 
Included in this group are all the white, yellow, 
or dark coloured. All the parti-coloured varie¬ 
ties that cannot be included in the above are 
Belgian or fancy Pansies.—J. D. E. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 

(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

1U759.— Cutting Vine roots.— As the 
Vines are planted inside, it will not be a serious 
check to them to remove the outside border 
entirely up to within 2 feet or 3 feet of the front 
wall. Dig a trench parallel with the vinery at 
the outer edge of the 8 feet border. You must 
get down to the bottom of the border, and then 
with a fork dig the soil out, being careful not to 
destroy the roots. When the soil has been re¬ 
moved as close to the front wall of the vinery as 
it is safe (it may be possible to remove it all if 
there is a border well filled with roots inside). 
Put in about 0 inches of brick rubbish, over that 
some turf, with the grassy side under, then a 
foot of the prepared soil; over this spread the 
roots, and then fill in the remainder of the com¬ 
post. I have treated old-established Vines in 
this manner, and they produced a good crop of 
Grapes, very much improved the first year.— 
J. D. E. 

10794— Beat Panales. —In reply to “ Percy,” 
I submit the following names of Pansies, which 
are excellent either for show purposes or for 
effective display, as they are all remarkably 
fine bloomers. Citv Lantern, Marjory, Eclipse, 
Adonis, Mrs. E. H. Wood, Mrs. J. Welsh, R. 
Goodwin, Anthony, Champion, J. B. Downie, 
Harry Lister, Bruce Findlay, Buttercup, Mrs. 
Birkmyre, Majestic, Theebau, Captain Tomlin, 
Thalia, Rob. Cowan, The Favourite, Mrs. Taylor, 
Little Gem, Defiance, Mrs. Musgrave, William 
Murray, Lucy, Argus, Remo, Invincible, The 
Queen, Thomas Granger, Topaz, Medina, Vesta, 
Flower of Shadwell.—R. Mann, Shadiccll. 

- I am a real Pansy fancier, and a great 

advocate and admirer of show and fancy 
kinds, and I would advise “Percy” to go in for 
the above, as the beauty of them would greatly 
surprise him, for the common ones are nothing 
to compare with the show and fancy kinds. But 
as he asks for a list, I have great pleasure in 
giving the following, which will either do for 
show or garden decoration. Show vabietibs. 
—Barkselfs : Alex. Watt, W. Robertson. White 
seifs : Mrs. Dobbie, Mrs. Cadzou, Lizzie H. 
Bowie. Yellow sell’s: Zama, Golden Circle. 
Blue seifs : Sunny Park Rival, Blnestone. White 
grounds: Miss Jessie Foot, Miss Barr, Gertrude. 
Yellow grounds : Robt. Burns, Captain Clntie, 
David Dalglish. Fancies.— Jas. Greeve, We. 
Windle, Mrs. McTaggart, Mrs. E.H. Wood, John 
Cocks, Catherine Agnes, Wm. Cuthbertson, 
James Gardener, Mrs. Barrie, Wm. Storrie, 
Prizetaker, Ringleader, Glenmayne, Alex. Cnth- 
bertson. Vesta, R. K. Mitchel, Robt. Goodwin, 
Alex. McMillan, David Wallace, Mrs. Dewar, 
and Mrs. Scott Plummer.— Geo. Henderson. 
— Halam, Southwell. 

107fi 1. —Cauliflowers failing— You should 
dig the piece of ground intended for Cauliflowers 
two spades deep, laying up, roughly, in ridges 
all winter, to let the frost get into the soil. If 
any eggs of insects are about, the frost will be 
sure to spoil them. Before starting to dig, take 
about half-bushel of sand, mix well among the 
sand a pint bottle of paraffin oil, and sow on the 
surface, also spread a good quantity of soot on 
the surface, and dig in. At the same time the 
ground should have plenty of good manure.— 
J. Robektson. 

10760.— Cold lean-to greenhouse. —A 
height at backof7$ feet foralean-to greenhouse 


15 feet wide, gives a very slight fall for the roof; 
aback wall of 11 feet or 12 feet would be better. 
If you cannot raise the wall, I would suggest a 
three-quarter spaa for the roof, which would 
allow a better inclination. Or, failing this, sink 
the path inside bo that the present front wall 
could remain as it is, and the stage be at a suit¬ 
able height (otherwise it will be inconveniently 
low), then carry the roof straight down to the 
front wall, dispensing with sidelights. This plan 
would give a good fall, and not necessitate any 
additional brickwork.—K., Hornsey. 

10629—Covering hot-water pipes.— 
The conducting power of different materials 
may be shown by the following ratio of the loss 
of heat from a 4-inch pipe, being the result of 
several experiments ;-Woollen-felt or cotton 
wool, 0‘3 ; sawdust, 04 ; coal-ashes, pulverised, 
0 73 ; common plaster, 0 98. The uncased pipe 
being 100.—E. Bbemnek Smith. 

10718.—Blowing up tree Btumps.—T endorse the 
advice of “Rock Ferry 1, to employ skilled labour. The 
effect ot the explosion Is often to project fragments to 
unexpected distances and In unexpected directions. A 
gentleman In this neighbourhood was killed on the spot 
two yesrs ago In this manner while watching the removal 
of some old stumps from the land of a friend, from what 
was thought by all engaged In the operation to be • per¬ 
fectly safe distance.—W. 

10763 —Supply cistern for boiler.—A cistern to 
hold about four or six gallons is large enough. The pipe 
should be 1-Inch, and let Into the return pipe. The 
supply cistern should stand from 1 foot to 2 feet above 
the highest polat of the hot-water pipes, and the mouth 
of the air pipe most be higher than the cistern. The 
air pipes are usually very small.—J. D. E. 

10780.—Use of Old mortar —It the soil Is stiff, the 
old mortar rubbish is invaluable for It. Spread it on the 
surface and dig in, together with stable refuse, Ac. It 
should, however, be kept away from Rhododendrons, as 
anything In the way of lime is injurious to them. If the 
subsoil of the garden is chalk, lime is, of course, super¬ 
fluous.—V. C. 

10777.—8how Tulips —We grow our show Tnllps 
without any covering whatever. But they must be 
shaded or sheltered In some way from sun and rain, if 
the blooms are intended to be exhibited. Even a slight 
shower of rain washes the pollen from the anthers, and 
makes a sad mess of the base of thecup, where the judges 
would look for spotless purity.—J. D. E. 

10785.—'Transplanting Carnations.—The best 
time to do this Is In October, as early as possible In the 
month. The plants become established before severe 
weather sets in, aud they are thus better enabled to stand 
through the winter. They may also be planted In 
February, but iu that case they ought to have passed 
through the winter In small pots.—J. D. E. 

_- The best time for transplanting rooted slips or 

pipings of these, is as soon as possible after they are well 
rooted. If struck in the open ground under handilghts, 
this would be some time during August and September, 
or even later, varying, of course, according to the season. 
—K., Hornsey. 

- Rooted slips should be transplanted either the 

last week in October or February.—V. C. 

10789.— Improving damp Boll.—Apply plenty of 
sand, lime, old mortar rubbish, burnt earth, or ballast. 
Drain tiles laid In would be a sure cure.—V. C. 

■—- If the soil is unduly wet, even for this time of 
year, It probably wants draining. Dig out a few holes 1 
foot or 2 feet deep, and if water runs into them the 
ground should be drained. It might be improved by 
adding lightening material, but this would not alter the 
radical defect—K., Hornsey. 

10787.—Transplanting Box.—The present open 
weather Is very suitable for this operation. It will be 
safe to move It at any time before the end of March, 
watering well during the following summer.—V. C. 

10792.— Soapsuds and Roses.— Neither soapsuds 
nor liquid manure of any sort should be applied to Rosen 
at this time of year. Liquid food should be administered 
from April to July only.—V. C. 

10791.—Cuttings of Chrysanthemums.—Rooted 
off shoots from the stool are quite as grod and better 
than cuttings from the upper part of the plant.—V. C. 


Thyrsacanthus falling. —I enclose some flower 
stalks of Thyrsacanthus, which you will perceive has not 
opened Its blossoms Several of the other plants which 
are In the game stove have disappointed me iu the same 
way. The plants are very healthy, and other plants 
in the same house do extremely well. — A Sri! 
SCKIBER. 1 Ii> never saw' abortive /lowers of this plant 
before. Has it been yrown too rapidly, or been dosed with 
manure water, Jrc,, just as buds were, formed /] 

Mulching Roses.— I am planting JRoses; should I 
put manure on the roots ob soon as they are planted or 
should I wait till spring ?-ZmzAO. [ Put. it on the 
surface of the soil after the Ruses are planted.] 

C .—From any hardy plant nursery. See our advertise¬ 
ment columns — — IF. Godley. —It is against our rules to 
give the addresses of our correspondents. 

Archibald A.— Try Messrs. Veitch & Sons, Royal 

Exotic Nursery, Chelsea_ John B.A. —The indexes can 

be supplied at ljd. each post free from our office. 

Names of plaDts.— P. F. 9’.-Fruit of Fuchsia 

procumbent (Now Zealand).- F. A. B. — Odontoglossum 

Llndleyanuni.- W. Y. 1). — Next week.- Busy B 

—Species of Cereus, not Umbilicus chrysantha. there 
is no work exclusively on Cacti In the English 

language.- St. Kiidas.—l, Pteris serrulate. IVe can- 

hot name the others from such scraps- Tidmarsh.—, 



494 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Dbc. 29, 1883 


Wild Service tree (Pyrus torminalis).- W. H Cancr.— 

Probably Senecio Petaaites.- George W. Ramsay — 

Chrysanthemum aesretum.- B. F. B .—Freesla refracta. 

- R. I. -Chrysanthemum segetum.- Fanny Buxton. 

— 1, Eriostemon scnblum ; 2, Aster sestivus ; 3, Pfceris 
cretica ; 4, unable to name without flowers or better 
specimens of foliage cud description of plant. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents.— All communica¬ 
tions jor insertion should oe clearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
and address q f the sender *•eaui r ed, in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Aiiswers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title of the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day qf publication, it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they arc received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only 
can be named at one time, and this only when good 
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name 
varieties offlorists’ floicers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums , 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
specialist who has the means qf comparison at hand. Any 
communication respecting plants or flowers sent to nams 
should always accompany the parcel. 

10827.—Building a greenhouse —Aa an amateur, 
desirous of building a greenhouse myBelf, in which to 
grow a couple of Vines and a few flowers, I have read 
up various articles in this journal upon the subject, but 
have not met with one that is adapted to my circum- 
stance?. If, therefore, some practical correspondent will 
be kind enough to give me an idea as to the way in 
which I could utilise the following position to the best 
advantage, I should be gratefulMy garden is 17} feet 
wide, with a brick wall 5 feet high on either side, and a 
concrete wall 7 feet high at the bottom, running 
north and south. I should like a house the entire width 
of the garden—17} feet by about 7 foet—and partly span. 
Whtch would be the best way to flx the house against the 
walls 'l Where should the door and boiler be placed, 
and what is the best arrangement for the Interior?— 
Barham House. 

10328—Carnations and grubs.—I have about 
three dozen ml clove Carnations, which till a month ago 
were strong, healthy, young plants, layers made in July 
and taken off in September. They are now much injured 
by small, white grubs, which burrow iuto the leading ; 
shoot and then down the centre of the stalk. Occasionally 
n side shoot is taken in preference. What is the insect 
of whtch these grubs are the larva? ? Do the grubs come 
out of the ground, or are they hatched from eggs on the 
leaves of the plants? II ow can they be destroyed, and Is 
there any prospect of the plants flowering next year from 
the side shoots if they survive so long ?—Haverstock 
Hill. 

10829.— Geraniums and Calceolarias.—I have a 
few scarlet Geraniums and a quantity of Calceolarias 
irorn which I want to take a few cuttings in the spring. 

I he Calceolarias were struck this autumn in a cold frame, 
and still remain there. They have grown very much 
since I put them In, and have been pinched back once. 
The Geraniums are in a cool house, and wero taken from 
flower beds in October. I want to push botli on so as to 
make good-sized plants in the sprin/, to enable me 
to take cuttings, as already stated. I should bo glad if 
any reader wonld advise me how to effect my purpose.— 
Amateur. 

10830.— Fern-growing on walls.—I should be 
grateful to anyone who would explain to me clearly the 
process of casing the back wall of a glazed aud warmed 
lean-to fbrnery with Mobs, in which Ferns would be 
planted, and the method of planting them—whether 
they should be built in (so to spe ak) * ith the Moss behind 
tho wire netting, or put in Afterwards; whether Moss 
alone is a sufficient bed, and how tightly it ought to be 
packed ; what distance the wire netting should be from 
the wall, what size mesh answers best, how often 
tho Moss should be syringed, and what Ferns thrive best 
under this treatment?—J. E. V. 

10831.— Smokeless heating apparatus.—I have 
a greenhouse 12 feet by 7 feet, which 1 wish to heat with 
hot-wnter pipes. It is distant from the dwelling-house 
(which is high, having two flats and attics) about 18 feet, 
and ray difficulty is how to dispose of the smoke and 
prevent it going to my own and my neighbour's bedroom 
windows. Is there any boiler heated by a smoke con¬ 
suming furnace which would answer my purpose? Gas, 
at 5s. per thousand feet, is too expensive, and besides, the 
pressure is too weak during the day. If any reader can 
help me I shall be glad.—G. W. 

10882 — Plants growing spindly.—I have a sma l 
greenhouse, at the back of; which is about 8 feet of soil, 
which always keeps the house very damp ; the tempera¬ 
ture is ahout 50°. It is heated by an oven underneath. 
Ferns grow luxuriantly but Geraniums grow wiry and the 
leaves rot off, aleo Begonia loaves drop off when the 
plants are about 2 inches high. Can any reader inform 
me If there is any remedy ? I had a nice show of flowers 
in the summer, now they all look sickly.—C. Boo. 

10833.— Portable greenhouse.— How caul make 
a portable span-roof greenhouse so as to be ablo to 
remove it In case I should leave the premises I now 
occupy ? WilMt do placed upon a brick floor, the bricks 
loose in the ground, and not set with mortar? Is there 
any hot-water apparatus I can employ without making 
the greenhouse a permanent fixture ? If so, which is the 
best boiler to get? A few remarks upon the matter will 
greatly oblige.—C onstant Reader. 

10334.—Covering? for greenhouse.— I have a span- 
roofed greenhouse 9 feet by 5 feet, for which I should 
like to nave a covering iu tno shape of a hood, made out 
of some kind of matting, to go over the whole affair, ao 
that it coaid be imtonevery evening before dark. 1 have 
tried an oil stove, Jrat ft seem* to do nore harm to the 
plants than the fifcst. 1, &bp 1 fi s^opljged'to any reader 


who will give mo any hints as to the material that should 
be used.—S erre. 

10835.— Insects In greenhouses.—Will some 
reader kindly inform me how to rid individual plants of 
the aphides or green fly In cases where the adjoining 
plantB are free and fumigattDg the entire house is not 
desirable ? Which of the three methods is generally best, 
viz., dost, fumes, or diluted water? And if a liquid bo the 
most desirable, should a syringe be used, aud what sized 
one Is best for an amateur having a small greenhouse of 
mixed plants ?—J. Weaver. 

10336 — Fall for hot-water pipes.—Will some 
expert kiudly tell me what is the lowest gradient up¬ 
wards that will Epcuve a sufficient flow for hot water in 
4 inch pipes? Will an inch rise in 6 feet do, or may I 
venture upon less than this ? There is already a very good 
rise in the pipes nearest the boiler. My enquiry relates 
to a proposed continuation of the piping to a fernery 
after it has passed through my greenhouse.—J. E. V. 

10337.—Plants under trees — Will St. John’s Wort, 
the larger and smaller Periwinkles, Dogwood, Hyperi¬ 
cum platyphyllum, Weigela, Eerberis aquifolia, and Tree 
Box do thoroughly well in a thick plantation under the 
ahade of trees ? What soil is most suitable, and what posi¬ 
tion as to shade in each case ? What space should be left 
between each plant ? And please give generally directions 
as to planting.—J. B. A. 

10838.— Red Currant trees not fruiting.—I have 
three fine bushes of the variety of Red Currant called 
Raby Castle, and though they have been two years in 
their present position, they do not fruit. Will someone 
kiudly say if it is a fruitful variety, and how it should 
be pruned ? They have made growth this year 15 inches 
to 18 inches long.— Expectant. 

10839.—Climbing' Roses for greenhouse—I 
have a span-roofed cold greenhouse 12 feet by 7 feet, in 
which I wish to grow three Roses to climb up the roof. 

I would feel obliged by anyone giving mo the names of 
the most suitable kinds for such a purpose. I wish to 
have a white, yellow, and red.—C onstant Reader. 

10840.—Bignonia grandlflora not blooming. - 
I had ono of these planted out at the end of a vinery j 
two years ago ; it gets plenty of sun ; it 1 b nearly 30 feet I 
in length, with some long side shoots. It has never 
flowered, but foims small rootlets at some of the joints. 
Will someone kindly advise mo what to do to cause it to 
flower ?—W. 8. 

10841.— Tan ashes for garden.-1 should like to 
know if iau ashes would be suitable for gardening pur- 
poses.lawn tennis ground, &c. The analysis is :—Moisture, 
0-12; soluble in hot water, 2'58, Fait, &c ; soluble acids, 
53*30, sulphide, <tc.; charcoal, 2 90; silica, 41 TO. Total, 
100-00.—P. Evans. 

10842.— Heating greenhouse from kitchen 
tire.—I have a lean-to greenhouse built against a kitchen 
wall, which I wish to heat* by hot water, but the green¬ 
house floor is about 4 feet below the level of the kitchen 
fire. Will this prevent my utilising the kitchen boiler? 

10843.—Camellias from cuttings.— I should be 
glad for a little information about cuttings of Camellias. 
What time should they be put in, what soil should 
be used, aud how should tho cuttings be made ?—ama¬ 
teur. 

10844.—Roses and LycODOde.—I have a Marechal 
Nlel Rose which has been planted inside my greenhouse 
a year, and has made much growth, some Lycopodium 
is growing all over tho border ; will it hurt the P*ose?— 
An Old Subscriber. 

10845.—Rhubarb in frames.—I have a largs, un¬ 
occupied frame; could I force Rhubarb in it without any 
heat? If so, how much earlier would it be than if I left 
it in the open ground ? Any information will oblige.— 
An Amateur. 

10346.— Camellias from seed.—Somo months since 
I sowed somo Camellia Eeeds Will someone inform me 
when they are likely t« r g. rminate, and how to treat the i 
young plants ?—O. G. K. Y. 

10847.— Lilies and worms —Will any reader kindly 
inform me tho host means to prevent worms injuring the , 
bulbs of Lilies ? Last season 1 had several flue bulbs in 
pots almost destroyed by them.—L ilium. 

10S48.—Manure water for bulbs.-Is manure 
water beneficial to Tulips and Narcissi, and il so, when 
should It be applied?—Z igzag. 

10849.— Dracaenas and Crotons.— What is tho 
nature, habit, and treatment of Crotons and Drachmas 
such as nmabilis and terrain alls ? - G. H. 

I0850.-Horse Chestnut tree decaying.—What 
can be done fcojill up the holes in a magnificent Chest¬ 
nut tree cloae to a country house 2—R. S. V. P. 


BEES. 


SEASONABLE NOTES. 

The unusual mildness of the weather during 
November caused beea to be unseasonably active, 
there having been throughout the month very 
few days on which they could not take wing for 
an hour or two. This has caused an undue con¬ 
sumption of stores, and thus, stocks that had not 
a full supply of provisions for the winter will 
have consumed so much as to have left scarcely 
sufficient to last till spring. It is late to talk of 
feeding, but rather than run the risk of starva¬ 
tion it would be well to give sugar cake in open 
weather. 

Shading entrances.—W hen snow is on 
the ground, entrances of hives should be shaded, 
because, when the snn shines upon snow, it 
always brings the bees out of their hives, and 
settling upon the snow they become chilled and 


perish. A good shield against sun is in the form 
of a hinged porch, which, when unsupported 
from below, leans on to the alighting board of 
the bar-framed hive, at a distance of about, 
2-inches from the hive-front, leaving easy means 
of exit at both ends. In front, opposite the en¬ 
trance way, there are two half-inch openings, 
cut out of the lower edge of the porch, which 
gives easy access to bees alighting at their usnal 
place. Straw hives may be shaded by fixing 
before them a wooden screen nailed to a post 
sunk in the ground, and large enough to shade the 
whole front of the hive. This will not hinder the 
bees leaving their hive at the proper temperature. 
It should be fixed towards the west side, about, 
a foot from the hive. During winter the hives 
should be kept at as regular a temperature, and 
as dry, dark, and quiet as possible. Bees do better 
incold winters than in mild ones, as a rule. Daring 
cold winters they cluster into the centre of the 
hive, and in the severest weather become dor¬ 
mant. There thus being but little wear and tear, 
they live well into the spring. Stocks that have 
not been fed enough in the autumn will Bomeiimes 
be found nearly starved in mid-winter. Ia such 
a case all that can be done to save them is to 
take the hive into a warm room for a hour or 
two, and pour amongst the bees a little warm 
9yrup, taking care to wet as little comb as 
possible with the syrup. 

Wax extracting.—Now is a convenient time 
to boil up old combs and extract the wax. The 
best apparatus for this purpose is the wax-ex- 
tractor, in the use of which beautiful wax is 
obtained from old comb in a few minutes; but 
those who do not care to go to the expense of a 
wax-extractor may adopt the plan of boiling up 
old comb in the following manner. The combs 
are first placed in a clean vessel, with as much 
soft water as they will float in, and the vessel 
placed on a clear fire, and occasionally stirred till 
the combs are quite melted, when the hot-water 
and wax is strained through a fine canvas bag 
into a tub of cold water. The bag filled with 
the hot water and wax is laid upon a piece of 
smooth board loDg enough to reach to the bottom 
of the tub of cold water, and forming an 
inclined plane. The top of the bag is brought 
over the end of the board, so as to hold it 
firmly and prevent it slipping into the water. 
A wide tape is run through a hem at the top of 
the bag, long enough to form a stirrup for the 
foot, by which means additional power is gained 
for keeping the strainer in its place on the 
board. The bag and its contents is then pressed 
with a roller, when the hot wax oozes through 
the bag and runs down the board into the cold 
water, and rests in flakes on its surface. It is 
then collected from the water and board, and 
put into a clean saucepan with a little water to 
keep it from burning, and placed over a low fire, 
melted slowly, and the dross skimed oS as it 
rises. The wax is then poured into small 
shadow pans or moulds, and allowed to cool 
slowly. The more slowly wax tools the more 
solid it becomes, freer from cracks and flaws. 
A more expeditious way is to put the combs 
into a copper, and press them into as small a 
compass as possible, then cover a hoop the 
diameter of the copper with cheese cloth, which 
place over the combs and fix down by sticks, 
wedged up against the ceiling. Then fill the 
copper with water and let it boil, when the was 
will rise through the strainer to the top, and 
when cold can be taken off in a solid mass. 
Wax can be bleached by remelting it several 
times, and running into thin cakes, and expos¬ 
ing it to the influence of the sun and air wheu 
cool. S.S.G. 

Boxworlh. 


POULTRY. 

Repairing hives.— Will « S. S. G.” kindly 
advise me what to do with a stock of bees in a 
“Neighbours” hivewhich is dirtyand require&re- - 
pairing ? Would it be advisable to transfer in ■. 
spring before the swarm comes off 1 If so, bow ^ 
is it done ? The bees have not much honey, so 1 
am feeding them, in consequence of which they 
venture out in cold weather, and some pe* ^ 
chilled ? How can I prevent this, and what ^ 
Bhould I feed them on ? I am feeding them at 
present on syrup.—T. S., Wandsworth. [The ^ 
bees and combs may be transferred from ft ^ 
“ NeflghbouFs ” improved cottage hive to a bw- 
1 frame hive at any time between April and 5ep- 



Dec. 29, 1883.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


495 


tember in the following manner: Remove the 
■took some distance from the old stand, and 
»fter blowing a little smoke into the entrance, 
tom np the hive, and place over it an empty 
skep. Rap upon the sides of the inverted 
hive with sufficient force to jar the combs, 
which will cause the bees to run up into the 
skep, which then place upon the stand the old 
hive occupied. Then place a piece of soft 
material upon a table or board, and on this 
two pieces of broad tape long enough to tie 
round the frame; cut out one of the combs 
from the hive and lay it upon the cloth, place a 
frame over it, and so cut and pare the comb 
that it may fit into the frame as firmly as 
passible; then tie the two pieces of tape round 
the frame, which will keep the comb in its 
place till the bees fix it. Raise the end of the 
board so as to bring the frame containing the 
comb to an upright position, and place it in the 
new hive, and repeat the operation till all the 
combs are used, taking care to keep the brood 
combs in the centre of the hive. Next wedge 
up the front of the frame hive an inch or so, 
and throw the bees from the skep, into which 
they were driven, on to a sheet or newspaper in 
front of it, when they will at once enter and 
cluster amongst the combs. The frame hive, now 
containing the bees and combs, must be placed 
uponthesitethedriven bees formerly occupied. In 
two orthree days the tapes round the frames may 
be cut and drawn out. If the bees are to be put 
into another straw hive, they must be driven 
into it about twenty-one days after swarming, 
as there will then be no maturing brood in the 
K combs. It is much too late to be feeding with 
syrnp; it should have been completed by the 
end of October. The only safe winter food is 
sugar-cake or barley-suga;, given at the top of 
the hive.—S. S. G.] 

Runs for poultry.— To do well with little 
care, fowls must have an extensive run. Never¬ 
theless, my twenty-fonr fowls only occupy a yard 
lti feet by 12 feet, and a henhonse 12 feet by 
8 feet, but then the happy idea occurred to me 
to make a hole in the palings, and let them run 
out into the road and adjacent fields. My feeding 
is simplicity itself. In the winter, Spratt’s poultry 
meal, with occasional seasonings of crissel in 
the morning, and mixed corn in the evening 
In the summer, corn both morning and 
night. A self-supplying fountain of water 
i» always kept in the yard. Doctoring 
or any other attention or feeding is never 
required, as the few nnhealtby birds that 
show themselves are promptly killed. On 
this system I am getting during the present 
cold weather 4 eggs a-day from 20 hens. They 
*111 average me during the year, rather over 100 
eggs per hen, and I always have plenty of 
chickens to kill during the months of September, 
October, and November. There are many sub¬ 
urban residences, especially comer houses, look¬ 
ing on to qniet roads or greens, where the same 
simple plan of keeping poultry may be adopted. 
To those about to start I would reccommend 
either one of the following breeds, light or dark 
b'ramahs, Cochins, Game, Dorkings, or Lang- 
shans, and care should be taken to get the 
pullets from one source and the cockerel from 
another—one cockerel to about eight pullets. 
My breed is Langshans crossed with a black 
Hamburgh cock. The offsprings are handsome 
black birds, with clean legs and the most 
beautiful black plumage, with a light green 
metallic lustre. Chickens most hardy. 
Heatherdale. 

Minorcas.—I do not agree with the corre¬ 
spondent who says Leghorns are more profitable 
than Minorcas. Both breeds are certainly 
splendid layers, but where the Minorcas have 
the advantage is in size of eggs and size of the 
birds themselves. Leghorns are dreadfully small 
generally, and consequently are not such good 
able fowls as the Minorcas. Besides, no one 
•hould draw conclusions unless they have had 
ome considerable experience with both breeds, 
rhereas in this case, only one bird of each sort 
as kept for a few months. It is impossible to 
idge as to the merits of a breed of fowls from 
atistics made on one solitary specimen, as 
ere are sure to be black sheep in every flock, 
at generally speaking, the Minorca is prefer- 
le to the Leghorn, not but what they are both 
client kinds, and worth the while of any 
iltry fancier to keep and study.—A nda¬ 
man. 


Grand Treat to the Readers of this Paper! 

200,000 SPLENDID 

Christmas and New Year’s Cards 

TO BE GIVEN AWAY WITH OUR 

Splendid Brocaded Silk Handkerchiefs. 


oince we first commenced to offer these beautiful Handker¬ 
chiefs to the public, we have received upwards of 100.000 
testimonials and received orders thus showing the superiority 
of our good*, and as they are direct from the loom, the 
newest designs and mott taatiinuabl* colours can be relied 
upon. They ar* handsomely brocaded in the designs of 
birds, flowers, Ferns, 4c., Ac , and may be had in thirty 
different colours. They ar-j a suit Able Christmas Present for 
a Laly or Gentleman, can be used for the neck or pocket, 
their eiza being 28 inches square, while they are soft, warm, 
and durable, ihua making thorn preferable to the fln^t 
Cambric. Testimonials forwarded to any add;esa on receipt 
of stamped envelope. 


QEORGE TEMPLETON, Hose Merchant, 

U Prestwiolc, N B.-Specialities. Hoses and Pansies; splendid 
collection of both ; catalogues of either for a penny stamp. 


PJ.AILLA.RDIA GRANDIFLORA MAXIMA. 

rT J" Ex * ra . 8trong blooming plants of this flue perennial 
por description see Gardening, December 15. p 467) 6s 
per dozen. 6 for 4s , 30«. per 100 ; or two each of the following 
ten beautiful hardy perennials, having single dowers, all in 
valuable for cutting and masaii.gr-Chrysanthomum maxi¬ 
mum (Ox-eye Daisy). Kudbeckia Newmani, Uaillardia erandi- 
flora, lyrethnim uliginosuw. Paparer nudioaule (Iceland 
Poppy), very beautiful; Erigeron speciosa, Anemone ja¬ 
ponic* (alba and rosea). Coreopsis graudiflora and Doronioum 
Uluri; a I extra strong Hoomtog plauts Carriage and 
packing free for 8u-J. BUKRELL A CO. (late Farreu) 
Howe Home Nurse ies. Cambridge. 


COUPON. 

We guarantee to send one Handkerchief as ad¬ 
verted above on receipt of I*.O.O. for 1s, or 13 
stamps; 2 for 2u. or 24 stamps; sit for 5s., or 60 
stamps; twelve for 0s„ or 108 Btamps; also to pre¬ 
sent with each Handkerchief a Bplendid Christmas 
or New Yeir’i Card. Money to be returned if 
goods foil to meet with approval. 


Signed, 


THOMPSON A OO. 


P.O.O. MADE PAYABLE TO 

R. THOMPSON & CO. 

CoiiBtmal BlM®. Stoclpl. 


W z\LiLb'LU WEJttS—Double splendid mixed, 
large spikes of double scented flowers, stuidy plants. 
9 inches to 12 inches high, 25, 2s. 3d ; 60, 3s. 6d.i; 100, 6a„ 
free.—OABBON A SON, Millfleld. Peterborough 


WALLFLO VVEKS (Single), Uovent Gaiden 

■ » strain, splendid mixed variety, large plants, 50, 2s. 6d. 
100, 4s., free.—OASBON A SON, Millfleld, Peterborough. 

'TUBEROSES, double American, deliciously 
A scented white flowers ; for cultural directions. Ac., see 
Gardening of Nov. 10, 1SS3, page 405 Strong roots. 6 for 
3s., 12 for 5s., free.—JAaBON and SON, Millfleld, 
Peterboroug h. 


OEMS for the botanist and all lovers of the 
U beautiful and curious. All in stock now. and sent by 
first parcel post, free —K ILMISTER, Seedsman. Biighton. 


I ILIES OP THE VALLEY, Berlin Flowering 
J-J Crowns. 5a. 6d. per 100, 50 for 3s , 25 for la. 9d. The 
same strain for planting 3i 6d. per ICO. Blue Hepaticas, 
34. 6d. per 100, 59 for 2a. Cnristmas Roses, fine clumps, per 
dozen, 2a. 6i. Double Diiaies, with finely variegated foliage 
per dozen, 1x6 a — KILMISTER^Seedaman. Brighton. 

[TARDY ORCHIDS, moetly native species, 

i-i- require shade and moisture but no protection ; wLl do 
welt in co‘d greenhouse : — Ladvs Blipper (Oalceolus), each 
6d., Htilleborine fid., Buiteifly 4tL, militaris 6d., Spider 4d., 
laxiflora 6d . Fly 4d Oypripudiutn srec»ablJe. Is. 6d. Twelve 
interesting British species, 3 a 6d.—KILMISTER, 8eedsman 
Biighton. 


I ILIUM HARRISI, the new and scarce Ber- 

U muda Lily, true, Is. 6d -and 2« 6d.; speciosum rubrum, 
6<J.; album, la. ; fezovitzianum, la 6d.; tigrinum plenum 
and splendent 9d. ; inartagon, fid.; longiflorum 4d. ; tigers, 
28 6d. per dozen ; auratum, 6cL, 9d., and Is.; cbalcedonicum, 
Is ; bulbiferum, 6d.: twelve sorts, including types of each 
group, 5s —KIL^I-TRR, Se edsman. Brighton 


ANEMONE SVLVeSTRIS, eacli 4d.; anen- 

Dina, perdoz , Is. 6<L; bland*, fid. each ; nemorosa plena, 
3d; paltuata, 4d. ; Pulsatilla, 6d.; r&nunculoidts, Is. fid. 
dozen ; Bteliata, Is. dozen ; French Giant mixed. Is. dozen, 
59 for 3 j. 6d.. 10*» for 6s. CL; single scarlet, ICO for 4a. 6A. 
50 for 2 j. 6d.—KILMISTER. Seedsman, Brighton 


GLADIOLUS BREN CHLEVENSIS, fineroots, 

LT la. 6d per 25. per 50 2s. 9d.. per 100 5s.: The Bride, 2*. 
duz«n; summer-flowering hybrids, in mixture, per doten 
Is. 6d.; hybrids of Gandavensis late flowering, a fine strain 
ready shortly, 12 good sorts with names 2a. fid • in mixture,’ 
per dozen, Is. fid ; per 59, 5 s. Cd.; per 100. 103.—KlLMIaTER, 
Seedsman, Brightou. _ 


SPLENDID W hite ami Pink Double Pieonies, 
W with names, Is. each; the doubleflowored Meadow 
Rweet (3pira>a Ulmaria plena), 6<L each; the red flowered 
Soinot pairnata, 6d. each; purple flowered Christmas Koie 
|H. purpuraaoena), fid.; Amaryllis formosisaima, lovely crim¬ 
son flowers, fid.; Day Lilies, tiava. fulva and l>um rrtieri, 
64. Arum crlnitum and dr-tcunculus, extraordinary plants, 
64. Iris Kcempferi, very choice strain of hybrid*, iu mix¬ 
ture. 9cL Homed, green-flowered, and Wild Tulips, 2d.— 
KTLMl-iTER. Ropd°rn«ii. North Rriffh^o". 


T WRN i Y-fiiV J3i fine Evergreen anfl f lowering 
Shrubs from 3 ft. to 4 ft. high. in great variety, for 
7s. 63.. carefully pocked ou rail.—O. SHIIi.lNG, Nurseries. 
Winch field. Hant s. 

PUPRESSUS LAWS0NIANAT^"V^“fine 

v-f trees of this handsome and useful Conifer, 44 feet to 5 
feet high. 12e. dozen ; Japanese Evergreen Privet. 2 feet, fia 
100; Laurel, 18 inches to 24 inohea, 20 a 100.—O. SHILLING. 
Nurseries, Winohfield. Hants. 


£25 IN FRIZES FOR 

Lnxton’s Evolution Pea, 

Laxton’s John Harrison Bean, 

Luxton's Girt ford Giant Searlet Runner, 
Lnxton’s Sandy Prize Onion. 

ORDER AT ONCE, as Stocks are short. 
Particulars post free from 

THOMAS LA XTON, Seed Grower, Bedford. 

fJUT I LOWERS.—Three button-holes for per- 
V * onal decoration, carefully packed per return, 1 a Box 
of Chrysanthemum blooms, Jb. ; Camellias, two for Is a.l 
post free.-WM. SANDERS. Tbe Gardens Leek” Stiffs.’ 

PHRYSANTHEMUM CUTTINGS, from 300 

y selected varieties, la. per dozen, free; rooted cutties™ 
Ptr dozen. free.-WM. &ANDKK8, The Gardens. LeX 
fetaffordshire. * 


PHOICE CHRYSANTHEMUMS,and howto 

v grow them to perfection. For full particulars of suc- 
ceauful culture of Chrysanthemums for exhibition, see 
N. Davis s Catalogue, poat free one stamn; or with sample 
dozen cuttings voiy finest varieties, for 1 a 2d.; 25 for 2a. 3d • 
6l) for 4 a. ; ICO for 7». 6d. My selection, all guaranteed distinct 
ana true to name For purchaser's own selection and new 
varieties, see catalogue as above. N. D. can refer to many 
or the leading exhibitors in all parts of the country as to 
the correctness and quality of his plants and cuttings, which 
are acknowledged by hundreds of testimonials to be the beat 
and cheapest in the trade.-N. DAVIS, 66, Warner 
Road, Camberwell, London, 8.E. 

,T U. STEVENS HORTICULTURAL 

natural history sale 

ROOMS 13, Klnir Street, Oovout Oavden. London. E«c»- 
bllghed 1780. Sales by Auction nearly every day. Catalogues 
on application or post free. 

VVER* MAN IIId OWN TINKER.-Solder- 

CO ‘^ton 0 BiraUnBham 0 * 1 ” P0,t ' ?lL - TI1 ' i ’ KTT ' 8 -'M> 


QJIEENHOUSE GLAZING.—Bickley’n Patent 

“. Horizontal Saoh Ban are, aa To.tlmoulalaprove.tho be«t 

L “‘- **■ ■*>» No -». "“>n> 


WADE & CO, 

G-LARR MEBCHANTS 
„ 7. KINO 8TRRET, LIVfR?OOL. ’ 

Polifhed and Rough Plate. Sheet and Ornamental Window 
Glaes, etc. Small squares of sheet gla«s, suitable for green¬ 
house*, at special prices Carriage paid to all parts. Green- 
id. Wholesale and ii 


houses designed and erected. 


a and tor export. 


Glass l Glass! I Glass 111 
pMEAPEST HOUSE IN THE TRADK.- 

'xHsfore Bivins your order .end lor prtora Irom WILLIA M 
OHTLER. wholesale GIsm Merchant and dealer in ereiy 
kind ot Glau Iqr Hortioultural Purnor.e,, 335. h,i mra er Lari/ 
Birmingham. Aii giaoa uuppUed ot English manufacture! 
Kstanliphea J852. 


TJ USSIA MATS for protection from frost, 
AU Rani a fibre lor tying, Tobacco Ololh, Netting. Canva* 
ko.—Immense stock at MARENDAZ AND KIHHERH 9 
Jnmpii Rtreet. Coven t Garden 


T EAN-TO KOOE GREEN HO USES.—12 ft 

ir. 1^? 8 ’ . £9 • , 15 “ fcy 8 ft, £10 ]&,. ; 15 ft. by 10 ft.. 

^ an ,I rta . u , on : price lists free.- 

A. P. JOHNSON, Horticultural Builder . Wilmingion, HuU. 

QREENHOUSES >OR THE MILLlblT-. 

^ Portable Spau-roor Villa Greenhoiue, 10 feet by 7 fret. 
£4. Lean-to, 75s. ; Paiton Span-roof. 100s.: Lean-to, 95s- 
The Amateur, EOs. ; Conservatory, 13 feet by 4 feet, £7. com- 
p ete ; no extra charge for stages, eto. Orer 3000 eroeted in 
all parts of the kingdotm Bee press opinions. Drawings, 3d. 
animate* given for Horticultural BuUdlngn.-yorkshiio 
HprticulturaMVorks, Wmdhill, Bhipley, Yorkshire; and 
High Street. Wood Green. London. 


(IRLUNUOUHE AND HOT-WATEK HEAT. 
7 \ PPAB ATU8 for £6, that will grow 3)0 pUnts, 
also Cncnmbers and Melons l dear the oost iu one season. 
Send throe Btamps for Catalogue of greenhouse and heating 
apparatus from 6s.—Horticultural Works, Wood Greru. 
London. 


PARCELS POST FREE. - Six Christmas 

■L Rosea, 2b. 6d.; twelve Gladiolus, la 3d.; three Virginia 
Creepers, la. 3d.: aix Fern-leaf Acacias, la. 3d.; three Libo- 
niaa, la. 6d.; three variegated Elder, la. 3d.: carefully 
packed.—C. BHILLING, Nurseries, Winchfleld. Hants. 

CUX HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSES in 

beat sorts, named, atreng, free, Ss. 9d.—O. 8HLLLINU, 
Nurs eries, Winchfleld, Hanta. _ 

A SPAKAGUS PLANTS.—Orders now booked 

-tJ. for extra Btrong plants of Connover’a Colorsal, at 3i. 
per 100. Please order early.-C. SHILLING, Nuraeriea, 
Winchfleld. Hants 


Got .gle 


UU ANTED, Three Camellia Plants, with about 
* » 18 inches atpm, in pots, for planting out. Best sortn 

only. Perfect health. Red, white, and rose. Specimen of 
bloom and full paiticulars to J. H. MARTIN, Minia Villa. 
Bradpole Road, Biidport. 


■yiRGIN CORK.—Handsome Pieces, lightest. 

J therefore cheapest; 112 lb . 18a. 6d.; 56 1b.. Up 6d ■ 
28 h.. firl -WATMfW * WOTT. r ca ’ tT' L *' * 


281b., 6s 6d.—WAT80N 4 BCUlL, 
Street, London, E.0. 


Lower Thames 


POULTRY VVIKE NETTING, Galvamaeil, 

Westminster. Price Lists on application. 


HOCOA-NUT FIBRE REFUSE.—Best quality, 

yJ as BUDrilled to thp nrinHnnI \’Hvro n <meen..j .L_. 


Ainivn, uiubo, oo 3 ., nee iu r; 

FOULON, 32, 8t. Mary Axp. 


Loam and Peat. A.* 


CRUSHED BOXES! CRUSHED IMXXES!! 
For Vino Borders and Grass Lands. 

BONE MEAL FOR FLOWERS. 

Best quality at Lowest Prices. 

Apply—The Bone Crushing Company, limited, 

Holliday's Wharf,-bow-Common, London, e. 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Dsc. 29, 1883, 


NOW REACT. 


GARDEN ANNUAL, 

Almanao, and Address Booh 

For 1884. 

PRICE ONE SHILLING-, 

Post free Is. 3d. 

This is the most complete and accurate Yearly 
Reference Book for the use of all interested in 
Gardens yet published. The alphabetical lists 
of all branches of the Horticultural Trade have 
been corrected up to date. The lists of Gardens 
and Country Beats have been very carefully 
revised, while the list of Gardeners is entirely 
re-written, and the Post Towns added with tht 
greatest care and attention, and now forms the 
most complete list ever published. The Garden 
Annual may be ordered through all Booksellers, 
Nurserymen, and Seedsmen. 

THE GARDEN” AND “GARDENING 
ILLUSTRATED " OFFICE: 

37, SOUTHAMPTON STREET, 
Covent Garden, London, W.C. 


TTENDER S PETUNIA.—This strain is un- 

JJ. rivalled. The Bingles are nearly all beautifully mottled 
and Btiipedin lovely shade* of colour. Double seed pro¬ 
duce* a good percentage of double flowers, which are fre¬ 
quently fa rin advance of named varieties; qingle. Ss. per 
packet; double, 3 j 6 d. RENDER'S BALSAM:J, the finest 
strain offered “ Ba'nams of fine quality have been sent up 
from the nurseries of Meagre. Hinder A Hons, of Plymouth. 
—Gardener's Magazine, Ju'y 30,1882. “Hender A Sons'strain 
poasesBall the good qualities of the beat type of double 
flowera."— Gardeners’ Chronicle, July 21. 1883 Eight varie¬ 
ties, separate, 2s. 6 d. per packet.—RENDER & SONS' 
Nursery, Manpam e ad. Plymouth. _ 

pLIMBERS. — Honeysuckle (red), Virginian 
.yj Creepers, Ampelopsia Vcitchi. Rosea. lTiea, Jafminer. 
Cotoneasters. "Hop Dlauts, Clematis 6 a. per doz Our assort¬ 
ment.—FREEMAN, Norwich. 

HJANT RED CURRANTS.—Good bushes, 2s- 

VX per doz. La Vereaillais**, also La Rfttive, prodigious 
bearers ; Black Naples, and White Butch 6 do/f n. assorted, 
carriige paid in England.—FREEMAN A FREEMAN, 
Norwich. _ 

nPHE “NORWICH” GREENHOUSE is port- 

J- able, well made, and serviceable. It ia easily erected in 
half an hour. Price includes stage and all necessary fittings 


GARDEN REQUISITES. 


Painted 1 coat 
and glass sent, 
ft. ft. £ a. d 
8 by 6 .. 5 10 0 
10by 6 .. 6 15 0 
12by 6 .. 9 15 0 



Painted 3 coats 
and glazed, 
ft. ft. £ b. d 
8by5.. 6 10 0 
10by5.. 8 0 0 
12 by 6 . .12 2 0 


Packing case, 15 b. 

8 PAN-ROOF HOTJSE 8 lame as above, for Prices see 
Catalogue. 

NE 8 T OF SIX HANDLIGHTS, to cover 15 square feet, 
made diminishing sizes, painted three coats, 21 -oz. glass 
Can be had either in span-roof or lean-to pattern, £115s. 





CUCUMBER FRAMES, 21-oz. glass, painted three ooata ; 
2-light frame, 8 ft. by 6 ft., £3 4s. 6 d.; cases 4a., to be allowed 
when returned. The above all carriage paid to nearest Rail¬ 
way Station. Illustrated Catalogue free on application. 

0. FRAZER, Horticultural Builder, Palace Plain, Norwloh 
FOR GENTLEMEN, GARDENERS, AND COTTAGERS. 
—“A new departure in matters horticultural. Down¬ 
right common sense ."—Review 

P RUNING and TRAINING IMPROVED. - 
Illustrated. By John Simpson, author of the Society 
of Arts’ “Report on Fruit Culture at the Paris Exhibi¬ 
tion, 1878; describes new and hitherto unrecorded methods 


One hundred plates, mixed (no duplicates)... 

Fifty „ 

Twenty-five „ „ „ ... 

One dozen „ „ „ ... 

„ „ Stove and Greenhouse Plants 

„ „ Bulbous Plants. 

i, „ Shrubs. 

„ „ Orchids. 


Specimen Plate, post free, 8d. 


ENGLISH FLOWER GARDEN 

AND DICTIONARY OF FLOWER GARDEN PLANTS. 

Now Ready (760 pp), with over twelve hundred and eighty Illustrations, Medium 8vo, 15s. 

THE ENGLISH FLOWER GARDEN: 

ITS STYLE AND ARRANGEMENT. 

Followed hy an Alphabetical Description of all the Plants best suited for its 
embellishment; their Culture and Positions. 

BT W. HOBINBON, 

With the co-operation of many of the Best ldowcr Gardener,. 


EBAY, Albemarle Street; and all Booksellers. 


Digitized by 


r^MCBEAY, Alb: 

Go gle 



BEAUTIFUL 

COLOURED PLATES OF FLOWERS 

For Screens and Scrap-hooks. 

Drawings by the best flower painters, finely reproduced in colour, and representing the best coloured 
illustrations of new, rare, or beautiful garden plants now published. 


... 15s. Od. post free. 
... 9s. Od. „ 

... 5s. Od. „ 

... 2s. 6d. „ 

... 2s. 6d. „ 

... 2s. 6d. „ 

... 2s. 6d. „ 

... 2s. 6d. „ 


PEAT, LOAM, SILVER BAND, PREPARED 
COMPOST, RAFFIA FIBRE, TOBACCO CLOTH, kc. 

Quality THE BEST in the Market IMr . 

(All Sacks included.) 

Peat, beat brown fibrous 4 s. fid. per sack; 5 sacks for % 

Peat, beet black fibrous 3e. 6 d. „ 5 sacks for S 

Peat, extra selected Orchids.. ,, ,, 5s. 01 uer asrk 

Loam, best yellow fibrous •• ., 

Prepared Compost, best ..f Is. ML perbwfcM 

Mould .( lucki taetotat) 

Peat Mould . ) 

Silver Sand (coarse) .. ..1*. 3d. per bnaheL 

Raffia Fibre, best only .lOd. per lb 

Tobacco Cloth, finest imported .. ,. 8 d. lb.;28 lbs.,IDs. 

Tobacco Paper ,, (spdcialitd).. 8 d. lb.; Elba.,Ilk 

Sphagnum Moss, all selected.. 2s. per bush., 6 s. per eack. 

Cocoa-nut fibre Refuse, sacks, la. 6 d. each ; 10 sacks, 13a.; 15 
Backs, 18s.; 20 sacks, 23s.; 30 sacks, 30s. ; truck load, free on 
rail. £2. Limited quantities of G special quality granu¬ 
lated in sacks only, 2s. fid. each (2 prize medals). Terms, 
strictly cash with order. 

UHTJBB, ROUND, & OO., 

Wwt Ferry Road. MUlwall, London, E 
HARDEN REQUISITES.—Cocoa-nut Fibre 

VJ Refuse, 4d. per bushel, 100 for 25s.; truck (loose), 
Light Brown Fibrous Peat—Es. 6 d. per sack, 5 sacks 25i, 
racks 4<L each. Black Fibrous Peat-5s. per sack, 5 sacks Zb., 
sacks4d each. Coarse 8 ilver Hand- Is. 9d. per bushel, 15a. half 
too, 26s per ton ; in 2 bushel bags. 4d. each. Yellow Fibrous 
Loam, Peat Mould and Leaf Mould, Is. per bushel Scliagoum 
Mors. 83 6 d. per sack. Manures. Garden Sticks, virgin 
Cork, Tobacco Cloth. Russian Mats, etc. Write for free 
Price List —H. G. SMYTH. 21, Goldsmith s Street, Drury 
L^ne (lately called 17a, Coal Yard). 

Genuine Garden Requisites. 

AS SUPPLIED TO TEE ROYAL OAK- 

■to. DEN 8 , the leadingGentrv, and Florists of the United 
Kingdom. Cocoa-nut Fibre Refuse, best only, 1 b. 6 d per 
sack; 10 for 13s. : 15 for 18s. ; 20 for 22a.; 30 for SUt, 
sacks included. Truck, containing more than two ton*, 
free on rail. 33 b. Selected Brown Fibrous Peat, 5s. per 
eack ; 5 for 22 b. 6 <L Black Peat, 4s. 6 d. per sack: 5 fox *&. 
Coarse Silver Band, la. 6 d. per bushel; 14s. half ton; 25s. 
per ton. Yellow Fibrous Loam, Leaf-mould, and Feat- 
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4d. each. Fresh Sphagnum, 80 . 6 d. per eack. Mamma, 
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Prepared Compost, Fertiliser, kc. Best TOBACCO CLOTH, 
8 d per lb.; 281b., 18s. 8 PECIALITE Tobacco Paper. 1M. 

E ;r lb.; 28 lb., 21s. Price List on application.—W. ALB¬ 
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by Gow'iu fishmonger, one minute from Bread Street Station) . 

GARDEN REQUISITES 

Peat, Loam, Silver Sand, Cocoa-nut Fibre Refuse. 
Tobacco Cloth, Paper, and Rope, Ac., Ac. 
Superior quality at exceptionally low prices. 

a <L 

Feat, best black fibrous, from.. 4 6 per sack. 

Peat best brown fibrous .. ..6 0 H 

Peat, specially selected for orchids .. .. 6 0 „ 

Loam, yellow fibrous.1 0 per both. 

Leaf-mould, best.. .. .. 10 „ 

Peat-mould.. .. .. .. .. .,10 

Silver Sand, coarse .16 lt 

Raffia Fibre, best .. .. .. .. ,, 0 S per lb.* 

Tobacco Paper, Cloth, and Rope, from .. 0 6 „ 

Cocoa-not Fibre Refuse.1 6 per bag. 

„ per truck load of about two tons 35 0 

Sphagnum Moss.. .. 4 6 per bag. 

Virgin Cork.18 0 per evt 

The trade supplied on wholesale terms. 

W- "W EBBBR, 

84, Glengarry Road, East Dulwich, SB. 


pOCOA-NUT FIBRE REFUSE, Is. per bag, 

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URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






















































GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. V. 


JANUARY 5, 1884. 


No. 252. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 

A SCOTTISH EXPERIENCE IN HARDY 
FLOWER GARDENING. 

While reading the pages of Gardening Illus¬ 
trated, I have often been instructed by the 
experiences of hardy flower growers in the south, 
while conscious at the same time of the great 
difference in my own experience as to many 
plants reputed hardy in England, which are not 
so north of the Tweed. For the benefit of 
northern readers who may be anxious to cultivate 
the many rare herbaceous plants which are in- 
iroduced to their notice, my own experience may 
be useful. Our first difficulty, on reading an 
Hnglish catalogue of herbaceous plants, is to 
believe that there are so many varieties in 
existence in the south, while the second difficulty 
is—why are so few to be seen in gardens in the 
colder north ? Here and there, indeed, are fine 
collections to be found, carefully grown by old- 
fashioned gardeners wise enough to follow the 
wisdom of their predecessors, and independent 
enough not to bow the knee to the modern Baal 
of floriculture, viz., the bedding out system. 
These collections are mostly out of the ordinary 
amateur’s reach, being in out-of-the-way country 
districts or quiet sea-coast gardens, where the 
conditions of growth are as favonrable to hardy 
and scarcely hardy plants as the florists of Eng¬ 
land enjoy as far south as London. Indeed, the 
Island of Bate in the Frith of Clyde is as superior 
in climatic conditions to Glasgow and its neigh¬ 
bourhood as are the midlands of England at their 
best compared to Glasgow. 

Locality is the key by which we get at the 
usefulness to ourselves of any communication on 
hardy plant culture in these columns, and, unless 
correspondents indicate their district, we, in 
Scotland, must gang warily indeed to follow any 
hint successfully. The Scots beginner must not 
infer from this that all the advantages as to 
growth and climate are on the south side of the 
Island, and so become discouraged at the outset, 
[or many varieties luxuriate in the north that 
only just live in the south. If the Rose of old 
England is finer, ours lasts longer, owing 
to a lower temperature; while the Pansies are 
so well suited to onr moist, cool climate, that 
while our southern florists usually lose the finer 
show varieties in hot seasons, oars are thriving, 
and a Pansy show in Glasgow in midsummer is 
a treat indeed. In the south, the watering-pot 
is half the labour very often, whereas in the 
north it is only on sandy soils, and in very rare, dry, 
hot seasons that it is much needed. 

In the year 1870 I took a garden three miles 
south of Glasgow, and as there were no flowers 
in it whatever, bat lying in a very rough state, I 
got an old friend to give me a “ day’s plough¬ 
ing,” as we'say here, about the middle of May, 
and got it levelled and well dug over. Oblong 
beds, 3.} feet wide, and of various lengths, 
were formed, and the whole sown with an¬ 
nuals, except a bed reserved for Antirrhi¬ 
nums. In August the bloom was very fair, 
if it did not last long, and by the end of 
October all was cleared off and the borders 
edged with Box. The soil is a rich, sandy mould, 
10 feet deep, and being beside a river the drain¬ 
age is perfect. In November, a friend who grows 
hundreds of Roses to perfection, selected two 
dozen for me, such as Madame Rothschild, Sena- 
tenr Yaisse, John Hopper, Countess de Chabril- 
lant, Gloire de Dijon, &c. These filled one bed 
22 feet long by 31 feet broad. Another bed of 
the same dimensions next the river wall was 
with Phloxes and other common herbaceous 
plants of the district, as Achillea rosea, Funkia 
lanoeolata, deep blue Delphiniums, Iberis, 
iconics (deep red). Thyme, Balm, and Mint, 
kith a few Daffodils, Narcissi, Orange Lily, 
frown Martagon Lily, &c. Then a friend sug¬ 
gested Crocuses, and a few hundreds were got 
jnd planted 4 inches deep, and nearly touching 

zh other, but quite close to the Box edging. 


These Liliums were all planted nearly 10 inches 
Stilled withPhloxes and other common herbaceous I deep, and stood the hardest winter uninjured. 

* * " “ - -- - ”— 1 Of medium height, the fine doable Pyrethrums, 

Mont Blanc, Gloire de Stalle, Mons. Barral and 
Progress, I have not seen surpassed. A florist 
here had tried Pyrethrums, but they all died 
with him, but mine have come np every year 
stronger and finer. For lasting long in bloom 
and for medium height, as well as individual 
excellence as flowers you never tire of, these are 
the finest herbaceous plants I know for a small 
garden. 

The Aquilegias glandulosa and chrysantha 

a , „ „ . did well, but the former only lived a year, and 

arm the colder blue and white. A few Snow-1 evidently require to be renewed from seed, as I 


. l a y twelve blue, then three yellow, then twelve 
, c Shite, then three yellow, then twelve striped, 
’, ken three yellow, and then twelve blue again, 
fcd bo on, dividing each sort with yellow to 


drops in clamps of twelve completed the plant¬ 
ing for that season, and they flowered in Feb¬ 
ruary, while the Crocuses were very effective in 
March. In April, while visiting friends at the 
coast, I got some Hepaticas, Auriculas, double 
Primroses, and laced Polyanthns, and all, being 
lifted with earth, did well. I put in two dozen 
Gladioli, a few Anemones and Ranunculuses, 
planting 3 inches deep, and manuring the two 
last richly. Next I got a cold frame and set it 
under a north hedge, filling the bottom with 6 
inches of rough engine ashes and 8 inches of 
leaf-mould and sand. It was sown with Stocks, 
Asters, Zinnias, &e., to fill up the borders. 
About the second week in April the Roses were 
wellcutdown to a good bud growing to the outside 
of the bush, and 6 inches, or at most 10 inches, 
from the ground. The Crocus Grass was tied in 
bunches and left to wither, when it was easily 
pulled off by the hands and a dressing of sand 
and earth thrown over to put a skin upon the 
border to look fresh again. Next I dug in a load 
of rotted cow manure in the empty beds, raising 
them several inches, and the Rose bed got as 
much as I could- dig and tread in. As the 
bulbs and Phloxes came up I top dressed them 
with a good sprinkling of the manure, and 
covered over with a layer of new soil to make 
all uniform. 

Daring that summer the garden looked like 
the pattern in vogue around, the Roses being 
very fine in July, annuals very fair in August, 
while an odd hardy perennial bloomed now and 
again. In September the Gladioli were good, 
but in October all bloom was over. From the 
seed time in April labour was incessant. No 
sooner were the seedlings up than it was 
watering, prickiDg out into boxes, airing, 
shutting close for frosty snaps at night, trans¬ 
planting, watering, staking up every night and 
morning. There was little time to enjoy the 
garden itself, although the work was health 
giving, and to an amateur florist the work is 
quite half the pleasure of a garden. Indeed, it 
is a poor garden, with a gardener to be pitied, 
where all the work is done and not a little to do 
always. Yet for all the labour and care, the 
result of the bedding out system in confined 
gardens is very little indeed, only a month or so 
of bloom and then borders of black earth the 
rest of the year. Seeing that all bulbs— 
Crocuses, Lilies, Anemones, Ranunculuses, 
Gladioli, &c., seemed to flourish so well, I 
obtained some early Tulips for one bed, Lilium 
umbellatum, L. tigrinum, &c., for placing in the 
centres of the borders, so as to break the flatness 
of the whole. Then it was that I resolved to 
cultivate hardy plants exclusively, and having 
seen a few gardens where perennials were largely 
grown, I thought to have flowers all the year 
round, so set about getting the names of hardy 
plants and free-growing bulbs. A few could be 
got in Glasgow, but rarer kinds were not in 
stock, and for these I sent to Worcester. The 
nurseryman selected over a dozen Phloxes, which 
grew very strong in my sandy soil, enriched as 
it was with old manure, and the flower spikes of 
Oberon, La Perle, coccinea, &c., were very fine. 
Of Delphiniums—Belladonna, M. Legros, Gtoire 
de St. Mandf, and finest of all, Madame Henri 
Jacotot, quite changed the look of the garden. 
These tall subjects made a grand show at a 
distance, along with Poppies (Papaver bractea- 
tnm), Anemone vitifolia, Veratrum viride. Cam¬ 
panula (coronta, C. persicifolia, and C. Van 
Houttei, with the Liliums interspersed, as L. 
tigrinnm, auratum, lancifolium, roseum, &c. 


i 


Google 


have tried several plants with a like result. 
Spirasa palmata thrives, and its fine pink coral¬ 
like flowers and handsome foliage show well. 
The Michaelmas Daisies are hardy growers, as 
Aster Amellus, longifolius formosus, along with 
the very fine Erigeron speciosa snperba. The 
Dodecatheons Meadia, Jeifreyanum, and gigan- 
teum, are a great improvement on the old 
Canadian Cowslip known here. These thrive well, 
and their unique shaped flowers are as great a 
treat in their way as is the Dielytra spectabile 
when that is spared by the late frosts, which is 
about once in three years. Lychnis chalcedonica 
flore pleno and the twin brother of it, the double 
white, are very showy, though the white is not 
so permanent, dying off in some years, so it is 
best to put in cuttings. The single scarlet 
Lychnis is, perhaps, as fine as any tall plant we 
have of like colour, and it is a sure grower. 
Monarda didyma is good, sweet-scented, and 
very curious in form, and increases well too, bat 
I have lost it twice, so a cutting in the frame 
secures it. The Rockets are nearly extinct now, 
and it is a pity, as no finer flower can be grown. 
The old Scotch variety is rare, but by far the 
best sort, being dwarfer and more compact in 
the spike than the French white, which is often 
sold as the true Scotch however. The purple is 
pretty, but the crimson is grand and seldom seen 
now a days, the reason being that it dies off 
frequently, like the double Scotch white, and 
must be propagated by cuttings in October or 
November, say every second year. A small 
maggot is often to be found in spring curled up 
in the leaves of the Rocket, and these should 
be picked off or washed with soap-suds 
several times and then the plant watered over 
with clean water. 

Of low growing plants, Orchis foliosa 
and maculata are very fine, and if strong roots be 
planted 5 inches down in old manure, with peat 
and sand and some virgin soil of a fibrous nature 
as from rotted grass “ felt,” grow vigorously. 
These Orchises are travellers, and do not come 
np each year in the same place to an inch or 
two where planted, so a replanting every year or 
two years keeps up their size, especially of the 
maculata, or Kilmarnock variety as we call it. 
Ourisia coccinea is a little gem, and should be. 
allowed to wander freely, with a hand-light over 
it in winter to insure finer and more numerous 
flowers. , Fankia Sieboldi variegata is a fine 
plant for foliage, and with Pulmonaria officina¬ 
lis alba (or Joseph's coat) and the Polemonium 
variegatum and variegated Golden Cress, 
brightens the space between dark green plants 
wonderfully. 

I did not get these plants all at once, but 
when anyone takes a real herbaceous fever, it 
lasts a long time, and the stock is being always 
increased as attention is called to it in Gar¬ 
dening, or at flower shows, or from friends who 
wish to confer a growing pleasure by sending 
any rare specimen, and many such I am happy 
to acknowledge receipt of. My borders have 
not been dug for seven years; all that has been 
done is to scatter in winter some old, very old, 
manure round the plants, then another year the 
charred debris from a great wood fire, but al¬ 
ways in spring, about May, smooth over with 
leaf-mould, sand, or virgin soil. To show how 
much has been added to the soil in this manner 
in thirteen years, the Crocus now lie 18 inches 
deep that were planted 4 inches only, yet every 
year these Crocus bloom better than ever, being 
now a solid belt of flowers 8 inches wide from 
the Boxwood. Crown Imperials and other 
bulbs are in like case, and seem to like it too. 

Of low growing bulbs, Scilla peruviana 
cceruiea is very beautiful with its circlet of star 
flowers, but I can never bloom it two years in 
succession, and always get a new bulbinOctober; 
Anemone fulgens comes under the same ban. 
Narcissus bicolor Horsfeldi is very hardy and 
good, the original bulb I got from Worcester 
years ago being now quite a large clump with 
lots of bloom. The hardy Cyclamens live, but 
do not flower freely. Leucojum vernum is a 
gem of very early spring, with a delicious scent. 
The Scilla sibirica is a beautiful blue dwarf, and 
the Dog’s-tooth Violets, planted it la Crocus next 
the box, look superb, and require no culture but 



498 


GARDENING. ILLUSTRATED 


[Jan. 5 , 1884 . 


“wholesome neglect," till they increase with 
years and need division. Winter Aconites are 
good lor a yellow, but small and often un¬ 
appreciated, owing to being so early, and a wet 
season wastes them. The Hoop Petticoat Nar¬ 
cissus is very much finer than some of the larger 
Narcissi, but is very seldom seen here. Of 
autumn bloomers, the Colchicums, single and 
double, white and pink, are even in November 
very pretty, but are improved by growing Stone- 
crop or Thymus Corsica as a carpet, as the leaves 
of the Colchicums come up in spring, and 
die down, leaving the blooms to appear in 
September destitute of even a Grass, and so 
rain and wind are apt to batter them down. 

Lilies. —Perhaps the finest single bulb, dwarf 
or tall, from which I have had the most bloom in 
autumn, is Lilium tigrinum i'ortunei. For over 
a month in October and November its grand 
spikes of large, bright red and black spotted 
llowers have been quite a feature every 
year. The bulb was planted between Apple 
bushes and left alone these five years. Evidently 
the partial shade of “the woods” suited its 
habit, and seeing the good result in this case, I 
tried auratum in a similar position, and 
succeeded even in shade to flower it in August 
for two years, but the auratum has a trick of 
going off every third year with me in any 
position. The same can be said for the double 
Tiger Lily, one of the finest but most difficult 
to get in the markets hereabouts. After it 
blooms two years it seems to weaken off just 
ere the pods expand the third year, and if not 
lifted then, it fails utterly the fourth year. 
However, the Tiger Lilies can be propagated 
easily by taking off the little black bulbs from 
the axils of the leaves all up the stem, and 
sowing in a box and transplanting out; these 
flower the third season. The scarlet Martagon 
or chalcedonicum is a very hardy Lily, and likes 
stiff soil, and if planted near a dark green shrub 
the fine colour is seen to more advantage, but 
the small number of flowers is a drawback to it, 
there being three usually. The White Martagon 
is equally easy to grow, but it flowers in a great 
spike of many blooms, and is much more rare 
here. L. testaceum has flowered every year, and 
keeps increasing in height too. L. candidum is 
one of the finest, but I have found it one of the 
worst to flower. Thinking it was in the bulbs 
the defect lay, I got specimens from Worcester, 
Gloucester, and several other places, and one 
from a friend here, who grows and flowers them 
every year, even in soil as light as my own, but 
though all lived, only one flowered in five years. 
This season, however, a new start seemed to be 
made, as nearly all flowered, both those in clay 
soil and sandy soil, where I had tried to coax a 
flower somehow, by varying soil and site when I 
planted them some years ago. L. longiflorum is 
also irregular in flowering, but beautiful when it 
does so. From an esteemed friend at the coast, 
Mr. D. McLean, Shandon, Gareloch, now, alas! no 
more, I got a L. giganteum, and planted it 
4 inches deep in fine rich soil, with peat, sand, 
and leaf-mould. It sent up a stem the second 
year 8 feet high, with leaves growing less in 
size to the top, where seven large trumpet 
flowers of pure white with a red tongue down 
the inside made a noble Liiy indeed. The bulb 
broke off into several smaller ones the following 
year, and it is just likely one of these may flower 
next year. On the Gareloch shore my friend 
grew them magnificently and far stronger than 
I managed to do, and there it was quite 
hardy, but I have always covered mine a 
little in winter. I saw one in a greenhouse 
this year at the coast very fine, but it is far 
too seldom grown considering its value. 
The common Orange Lily (croceum) has sent up 
with me a double stem with seventy-three 
flowers on it, and umbellatum one with forty- 
eight, making these commoner kinds very much 
more to be esteemed ever since. ThiB autumn I 
have lifted some dwarf Apple trees and formed 
a new Lily border with careful earth, peat, sand, 
leaf-mould, old manure, and virgin soil, and 
planted a new lot entirely, including L. Hum- 
boldti, Martagon dalmaticum, Szovitsianum, 
pardalinum, californicum, Thompsonianum, 
elegans. alutaceum, ice. Of course, I shall cover 
some of these with Cocoa-fibre and bell-glasses 
till established, as I have not seen any of them 
here, and so have no local experience to go by 
as a guide. In fact, a gardener of the highest 
excellence advised^me always when I got a new 
plant to nurse ft a winter wit^ a hand-light, or 


ic j’Ta’^iiyer ^|i 


put it in a pot in the frame, no matter whether 
it came iu early spring or autumn, and if it was 
fit at all to plant it out in May, if it was fine 
weather, and tend it specially until it flowered 
in the best bit of the border possible. By so 
doing, I have insured many plants flowering the 
same summer after receiving them; and it is 
reasonable that plants coming from a warmer 
climate to this colder one ought not to be 
planted out in the open at once, for many 
nurserymen grow their youDg stuff under glass 
iu pots, and to get such in March or April, and 
put out in the border to weather rains, frosts, 
chill easterly winds, Ac., is simply to kill them 
right away. 

Since the year 1870, 1 have had a great over¬ 
flow of the river on two occasions, when all my 
borders were washed over by the “spate” at least 
a foot deep. Last February the garden looked 
like a sea-beach after the tide had receded. A 
layer of sand “-inches deap overlay all the beds 
and walks, and a few good plants were washed 
away or rotted into the heart afterwards. Thanks, 
however, to my non-digging, the soil was firm 
and held together, or my losses might have been 
very serious. One result was very pleasing : all 
the slugs seemed to have been washed out of 
their hiding places under leafy plants, Box 
edgings, Ac., and really I think the overflow of our 
little Nile has been beneficial on the whole. The 
fine purple Groundsel, Senecio pulcher, never 
recovered from the flood, however, its large 
succulent leaves rotting away. A lady florist 
here flowered a plant of it this year, and her 
specimen stood out all the previous winter, so I 
have got another plant from Worcester, and have 
potted it in the cold frame to try, try, try again. 
The Bog plants seemed to enjoy the flooding, as 
Cypripediums spectabile and Calceolus flowered 
well, and yet I have in former years lost two 
plants of the former by frost I thought, and this 
third specimen has been a reward of perseverance, 
indeed, sending up three fine stems. Did the 
L. candidums flower in consequence of the water 
I wonder ? The question of giving lots of room 
to every plant is truly a vexed one, which can 
only be settled by every grower according to the 
nature of the soil, style of garden, and method 
of culture he adopts. At first I gave plenty of 
space, but found in a hot season that the sandy 
soil got parched, and vigorus subjects like 
Echinops ritro, Lythrums, Actoa spiccata, Ac., 
flagged very much and noeded water. Latterly, 
as my stock increased both in variety and Bize, I 
found crowding (actually overlapping each other) 
to do much better, and when visitors remark on 
the too much in too little earth style I practise, 
I want to be shown any plant that looks like 
dying in consequence, or those of other people 
in the reverse style which grow better. For in¬ 
stance, in one bed 9 feet by 3.J feet, I have 
dozens of bulbs and plants all very close, only 
observing that if a deep (10 inches down) L. 
testaceum is in the centre, a surface rooting 
Phlox is next to it, then a deep planted Martagon 
album comes next, with a surface rooting Dra- 
cocephalum next it again, and so on. On each 
side lower growing plants are placed, as a Statice, 
a Lady’s Slipper (on the shady side, growing in 
peat and covered with Moss), a Narcissus 
Horsfeldi, a Primula denticulata, and so varying 
every plant, and with peat soil in one place, 
yellow loam in another, sand for a bulb, or a 
Zauschneria califomica in another, and just 
when planting arranging colours and times of 
blooming so as, if possible, always to have a 
succession of flower as well as contrast of colour 
on all sides of a bed. Again, where plants are 
ata greater distance andafreeinchor two vacant, 
I plant out in April Pansies from the frame. Car¬ 
nations, Pinks, Ohelone mexicanas, Ac., to change 
the effect each year. The Pansies grow very 
well thus treated, being shaded during summer 
as the plants overhead fill up, and if one gets 
affected with wireworm, the vermin can be 
localised better, and one’s whole stock is not 
likely to die off as if all were in one bed. To 
grow Pansies well, they should be planted in 
new soil every year without fresh manure. If 
manure be added at planting, it is apt to fer¬ 
ment, as a wise friend of mine argues, and this 
is at once a breeding nest for the wireworm, but 
my friend adds some broken charcoal below the 
plant, which is almost certain to forbid fermen¬ 
tation, and so his Pansies grow like strong Straw¬ 
berry plants with lots of bloom. Auriculas, 
double Primroses, single plants of annuals come 
in the same way, and hence the borders are 


always aglow with something, and there is no 
patch of earth visible for the sun to suck out the 
moisture and wither off the plants. l!y adopting 
this plan with one border where the earth is only 
a few inches deep atop of the river wall, I never 
lose a plant. For 20 feet there is hardly an inch 
of earth visible in this bed, and even such a we* 
subject as the Funkia grows well in it. Of 
course, this border is objected to as being con¬ 
fused by those who can go into fits of artistic 
rapture over a line of white Candytuft with 
a line of red earth showing between the ncu 
line of blue Lupine and so on. 

For large gardens or public parks the 
ribbon system is very showy, and people like it, 
but no sane man or true lover of nature in all 
her wonderful varieties of colour and form has 
any personal feeling to such ribbon displays a» 
the intelligent florist experiences when looking 
at a Narcissus Horsfeldi, a Lilium giganteum, or 
a Cypripedium spectabile. Somehow, in the 
latter instance, one feels as if introduced to a 
personality which one can get to know and study 
over with pleasure all the year. The single plant 
is a single picture, full of detail and dominated 
with a character, whereas the ribbon of white 
might be chalk or calico for aught one cares 
However, he is a “ wee ” lover of flowers indeed 
whose delight in flowers does not embrace all of 
nature's works, as Solomon knew (and enjoyed I 
trust) every plant “ from the Cedar of Lebanon 
to the Hyssop that springeth out of the wall ' 

To see the Prince’s Street Gardens, Edinburgh, 
in August, or the Queen's Park, Glasgow, is a 
sight which any florist can enjoy, and which 
even the parks of London or the Birkenhead 
Park cannot equal, for site lends aid to the gar¬ 
deners of the two former, which is made the 
most of, and in Edinburgh, from the Mound, 
Castle Hill, or market winter garden, the gorgeous 
masses of colour in “ stare ” of the first floral 
magnitude, or cursing “ lines of beauty,” yield 
“a joy for ever.” But in small gardens, of which 
the modern villa garden is the type, very little is 
possible of that wealth of colour we see in our 
parks. 

Annuals, to be effective as masses of colour, 
must have space, and we small garden people 
can only afford two or more little beds for these, 
and in a wet season where are they ? Between 
Liliums or herbaceous plants, single specimens 
of good annuals or biennials, as Cyanus, Mari¬ 
gold, Scabious, Aster, Zinnia, Wallflower, or 
best of all, Sweet Williams, fill up very nicely 
and cover the bare earth, while really yielding 
better flowers than the same sorts grown in 
patches ever do. Grown thus, annuals become 
as herbaceous plants for the time, and enhance 
the variety of bloom and colour in a small 
garden, while the frame, which has wintered 
Pansies, Auriculas in pots, with rare Primula;, 
rosea, cashmeriana, and a Lobelia cardinalis, 
it may be, is vacant, and as many annuals can 
be raised in it as may be required, always 
leave a few in the frame, so as to keep it 
bright and from being an eyesore of black earth 
in July and August, as hiding the box is 
impossible. 

Flowers all the year. —As the floral year 
has now ended, it may be well to indicate the 
hardy flowers, which, beginning to bloom, say, oa 
November 1, continue to succeed each other 
until the same time next year. That this is 
possible in Scotland many doubt; that it is * 
fact, even in a small garden, I have proved for 
several years. First is the great Christmas Ko«, 
Helleborous niger maximus (or altifolius by 
some) ; a plant of it from Messrs. Smith, of 
Worcester, has invariably flowered about the co l 
of October for some years, and lasts till Cbnsf- 
mas and after. The old variety, H. niger, begin; 
to flower usually on Christmas-day, and Ira* 
only failed to yield a bloom on that day twice in 
thirteen years, and when frost was excessive 
those two winters. In January, H. atrorubens 
succeeds and lasts till the winter Aconite; 
appear. Then the Snowdrops in February just 
linger until the Crocus in thousands tempt the 
bees on a sunny day with their first flute of 
honey. Ilepaticas—double pink, single white, 
and double blue, and the tine single angnlosa— 
follow, with Dog’s-tooth Violets and Scillas in ■ 

March; whilst Daffodils, Primroses, especially the 

double Lilac and white (which, every mild day 
or two from November, send up an odd bloom 1, ; 
the laced Polyanthus, Sharpe s Double ditto, Grape n 
Hyacinths, Auriculas, Ac., fill np, with bedding 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


499 


Jan. 5, 1884-1 


i 


Hyacinths, the month of April. May awakens 
the “ sleeping beauty ” of Anemone fulgens, 
Narcissus Horsfeldi, the sweet-scented Wall¬ 
flowers, and the rapid growing Crown Imperials, 
with modest Pansies clothed in purple velvet, 
and their younger sisters the Belgians of every 
hue and tone of colour in combination ; the 
.Saxifrages granulata and large and lovely pink 
crassifolia, with pyramidalis, as fine as any green¬ 
house plant, 37 inches high by 15 inches broad 
at the base. By the end of May the early Tulips, 
Dae Van Thol, Proserpine, Iveizerkroon, and 
Vermilion Brilliant, pass the fiery flame to the 
Rhododendrons blandyanum, Michael Waterer, 
and the lovely white, Lady Emily Cath- 
cart, while dwarf fruit trees are glowing 
iu Apple blossom in the background. In 
June crowds of herbaceous plants elbow each 
other for one’s notice from Daisies, Spiraea 
japonica, Lilium urnbellatum, Globe Ranunculus, 
Solomon’s Seal, Forget-me-nots, Caltha palustris, 
Dielvtra spectabile, Pyrethrums (single and 
double), and all the showily attired heralds of 
Flora that usher in the queenly Roses of July. 
Early Phloxes, especially the pure white, Miss 
Robertson, with Pinks, Carnations, Liliums cro- 
ceum and candidum, with Gladiolus cardiualis 
and Colvillei, accompany the Royal Rose in a pro¬ 
gress of beauty to the golden gates of August. 
Then the Delphiniums, Aconites, Tritoma, Liatris 
spicata. Anemones vitifolia and japonica, 
Liliums auratum, tigrinum, Martagon album, tes- 
taceum, and many-hued Iris, make a garden gay 
indeed. The single and double scarlet Lychnis 
and beautiful white Campanula pyramidalis, 
Achilleas Ptarmica, rosea, Eupatoria give help 
to the Phloxes, and Solidago ambigua warms 
with bright yellow the various colours around.' 
September and October are rich with odd blooms I 
of Roses, Pansies, autumn Crocus, Liliums For- j 
tunei and roseum, Gladioli, Harpalium rigidum, 
Helianthusmultiflorus flore pleno, Clematis Jack- 
manni and Mrs. Quilter, Aster amellus, Erigeron 
speciosa superba, with an odd Sweet William, 
lasting till frost cuts all down. The last named 
is a magnificent variety, brought to perfection 
by my old friend, Mr. Wm. Campbell, of Dunoon, 
after ten years’ careful culture. I have tried all 
the finest known sorts, but this is by far the 
finest for depth of colour, smooth or rose-edged 
petals, with pure white centre and lacing, with 
enormous heads of bloom, and is truly a strain to 
be grown by everybody. Although the half of 
the summer blooming varieties are not enumer¬ 
ated in the foregoing pages, sufficient has been 
noted to show what a small garden, as regards 
actual breadth of earth can do, and so be a large 
field of flowers all the year round, giving 
pleasure and healthy exercise at a very small 
cost in cash, considering the interest one receives 
from it. 


As to the labour of working such a hardy style 
of gardening, it is comparatively little, as you 
can either do much or little, as the weather or 
the mood indicates. If a Lilium roseum, say, 
has been grown a few years and got too large 
for its place, after the flower stems wither, lift 
out the bulbs and put in new soil, or change the 
locality, which is better. 

If Phloxes grow well, lift and split into bits 
of two stems each; add rich earth and replant 
what is wanted, giving away the increase to 
those who may wish it, and thus spread the 
beautiful over a wider area, and if accident 
bereaves you of a variety, it can be recovered 
again. To throw away the overplus is a crime 
when many bare gardens are around, and the 
niggard bouI who cannot give, as Nature has 
increased his stock, is no man, if maybe a 
florist. “There is that giveth and ytt in- 
creaseth,” and whenever I see one afrai iogive 
away some precious plant lest it becomes com¬ 
mon with his neighbours, then sure as fate, that 
favourite child oE the garden dies. That man 
may have flowers in his garden, but he has not 
got any flowers in his heart; “ thoughts of God 
earth planted,” and by-and-by the garden even 
refuses to do well, as flowers, like children, seem 
to know those who love them, and thrive accord¬ 
ingly- When I hear people complain of their 
wardens not doing well, I ask if they give away 
any, and usually the answer is, “No, I cannot 
afford it.” For many years I have given away 
armfuls, and find every season that this thinning 
out is all a garden needs, as I have no wholesale 
and digging of borders—to do so is to 
destroy, not to increase. Whenever a specimen 
Sets crowded or shows we^neSs, lift it i 


any young shoot and plant in fresh soil and site 
too. When a friend gets a “ Paddy’s cutting,” 
i.c ., a bit with a root, a little manure or leaf- 
mould put in to fill up the space is all the cul¬ 
ture needed in most cases. As to weeds I rarely 
see any, there being no room for them; just in 
November I scatter a sprinkling of sand over all, 
and if I see any grass seedling I remove it then. 
In summer the work is to stake up tall subjects 
before they get windblown, and after withering 
cut off the stems to a few inches from the 
ground. In autumn some mulching of old 
manure over the roots of Rhododendrons, Roses, 
Phloxes, Liliums, and strong feeders is bene¬ 
ficial, and in April, when the Roses are pruned, 
is easily forked in or covered over thinly, with 
a skin of new earth to make all neat. To many 
this is exercise enough, and to the hardy garden 
far better than digging with a spade, which 
cuts all the young rootlets, from which flower 
and increase come. Besides, jt does away with 
the “jobbing man,” who too often knows nothing 
about herbaceous plants, especially if he is of the 
young school, but whose mission is simply to 
dig, to the extermination in a season or two, of 
all bulbs and rare plants you possess. Give 
these people the outer world of vegetables to 
double dig at, but reserve to yourself the care 
of the herbaceous plants. 

In conclusion, I will name a few plants, some 
of which have been treated of in Gardening of 
late, but which I have to reckon as failures or 
partially so. 

A very fine one is the Gladiolus cardinalis. On 
our sea coast gardens at Dunoonit grows grandly, 
and is quite hardy in stiff clayey soils even. I 
have tried many plants at different seasons, but 
if they flowered once it was all. Phygelius 
capensis lives, but does not flower here, so also 
with the Pampas Grass, Gunnera scabra, and the 
Alstrcumerias psittacina, &c. The A. aurea suc¬ 
ceeds however. Wulfenia carinthiaca grows well, 
but never has flowered. Even the alpine gem, 
Gentiana acaulis, is very shy to give one of its 
exquisite deep blue bells. Primulas japonica, 
cashmeriana,and denticulata may live for a year 
or more, and flower too, but ultimately die. At 
Kirn, Mr. Wilson grows these in a wet clay 
border, where they are like giants for foliage 
and flower. Auriculas slowly go the same way 
here, where the dampness of the river, added to 
a wet season like this, kills them off. Mimulus 
sometimes stands a winter, and sometimes not, 
so a cutting of the fine sorts, W. C. Cowan, 
Gaiety, and Lord Beaconsfield, placed in the 
frame, preserves them. Yucca gloriosa does not 
do well here as it does at the coast, but Y. fila- 
mentosa thrives and flowers. Even some Roses 
like Souvenir de la Malmaison and La France 
die in hard seasons. However, even hardy sub¬ 
jects go off unaccountably even with the utmost 
care and knowledge of their habits, but if a 
joung plant is taken off, it often will live while 
the mother plant dies. To cover over with old 
leaves or straw, and place a bell glass on top to 
keep all close, and allow to remain until the 
Gladiolus cardinalis, Gunnera scabra, Eucomis 
punctata, Tritonia aurea, Tritoma uvaria, Ac., 
show signs of life, I find the safest. Where a 
glass cannot be used, an old basket or even loose 
straw alone is sufficient. In short, every grower 
must experiment so far, a3 I find plants hardy 
a mile away on a higher level, which I lose in 
winter. Soil, situation, high or low lying lands, 
a south exposure, drainage,&C., affect each garden 
differently, but I have found a plant which 
failed once or twice succeed at last if once it 
got hold. Get the plants from a good healthy 
source; prepare the ground thoroughly and en¬ 
rich well, allowing it to lie over a season ere 
planting in it rare plants ; protect all doubtful 
subjects for a season, and never expect too much 
for the first year, as all herbaceous and bulbous 
flowers, with few exceptions, resent shifting, and 
must take to the soil ere yielding good results. 
If the foregoing desultory remarks assist any 
who contemplate a return to the old garden 
flowers of our fathers, or has shown Northern 
florists what succeeds or what requires care to 
do so even in a very small space (about thirty 
feet by forty feet), even though it is done by 
adopting a garden of “ two storeys ” kind of 
idea, then we will thank the Editor for allowing 
so much space to a “ Scottish experience in hardy 
flower gardening.” Alexander Sweet. 


Vol. I. “ Gardening ” U out ol print, and we are 
therefore unable to further aupply either separate ooplei 
or bound volumea. 


CROWN IMPERIALS. 

That old inhabitant of our gardens the Crown 
Imperial may be very appropriately classed 
among these worthy old garden plants that have 
been somewhat neglected, though they are still 
found in cottage gardens in all the glory of 
their vernal brightness, decked with their 
coronets of red, orange, or yellow flowers. 
There are handsome showy varieties of it, both 
double and single. It is not necessary to enume¬ 
rate the names of the assumed varieties; suffice 
it to state that, as far as real points of difference 
are concerned, they may be summed up in the 
single red and the single yellow, with the large 
flowering forms of these two, and the double 
red and double yellow varieties. For effect the 
single flowers are certainly to be preferred to the 
double ones, though the last-named are much 
dearer and scarcer ; for it would seem that the 
double flowers frequently run back to the single 
form. The flowers of the Maxima red and 
Maxima yellow, as the large-flowering varieties 
are designated by the Dutch growers, are nearly 
half as large again as the ordinary single flowers, 
and this not the result of a higher cultivation 



Well-grown Crown Imperial. 


or a stronger development, but an abiding cha¬ 
racteristic of the plants. The Crown Imperial 
may be grown and flowered in any loamy soil 
forming a flower border; but to do it full justice, 
and to ensure a fine bloom, it should be planted 
in a deep rich soil well drained. If the soil is 
not rich it must be made so by the addition of a 
good dressing of well-decomposed manure. The 
stems send out, just above the bulbs, a large 
number of young strong roots. At that stage of 
their growth the plants will be benefited by a 
top-dressing of decayed manure placed close to 
the stems; in fact, a good coating of manure of 
this kind can be laid about the plants daring the 
winter, as it will give them a little protection 
during severe frosts. The Crown Imperial is one 
of those plants that, when once planted, require 
to be let alone and remain undisturbed for years. 
Strong bulbs do not always flower the first year 
after planting; they appear to require to get 
thoroughly hold of the soil, and then the suc¬ 
ceeding year they throw up strong flower-spikes 
crowned with their showy circlets of pendent 
bell-shaped blossoms. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


Gorse. —Though one of the commonest, this 
is also one of the most ornamental of evergreen 
flowering shrubs. The tufted picturesque shape, 
deep green leaves and shoots, and brilliant yellow 
flowers render this plant a favourite with most 
people, and we can well excuse Dillenius for 
being in a perfect ecstacy of delight when he 
first saw our commons covered with its golden 
flowers. Linnaeus lamented that he could 
hardly preserve it alive in a greenhouse; and 
Gerard relates that in Poland there was not a 
branch of it growing, except some few plants he 
sent, which were most curiously kept in the 
fairest gardens. It is usually found growing on 
dry, rocky, or stony places, and though of ? 



500 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED [Jan. 5, m 


hardy constitution is frequently killed in severe 
winters. The double flowered variety is one of 
the most gorgeous plants during summer, being 
literally one mass of bloom, which, in bright 
sunny weather is very conspicuous and beauti¬ 
ful beyond description. The Irish Furze is a 
very luxuriant upright variety with soft spines. 
It flowers in October, and is useful as a hedge 
plant.—A. W. 

Fungus on evergreens.— The name of 
the fungus which causes the thick sooty-looking 
coating on your evergreens is Capnodium Footi. 
J edging from the frequency with which exam¬ 
ples of it are now sent to us, this fungus appears 
to get commoner every year. It is also grown 
on the foliage of some deciduous trees and her¬ 
baceous plants. It is very frequently accom¬ 
panied by scale insects. This fact has caused 
some (including one of our American correspon¬ 
dents) to say the scale insect is the cause of the 
fungus. The fungus undoubtedly grows with 
greater luxuriance where the excretions of scale 
insects are present, but it is quite able to hold 
its own without them. We advise the destruc¬ 
tion of the infected leaves as far as possible, the 
destruction of scale where present, and good clean 
gardening.—W. G. 8. 

10781.— Climber for north wall.— 

“ J. B.” inquires if Ampelopsis Veitchi is a suit¬ 
able climber for a north wall. It will cover it 
quickly, and the present is a good time to plant, 
but it will not have the beautiful colouring in 
autumn for which it is so justly prized, as the 
amount of colouring depends entirely on the 
intensity of the sun’s rays that shine on the 
foliage in summer, and on a north wall it would 
keep quite green. Therefore 1 should say a good 
evergreen climber would be preferable. Some 
of the Euonymuses, or small-leaved Ivies, would 
be effective all the year round, while the 
Ampelopsis would be bare nearly half the year. 
—J. Groom. 

10787.— Transplanting Box.— The Box 
trees may be safely transplanted at once, as 
Box is a tree that forms an abundance of fibrous 
roots, and, if carefully lifted, there is no fear of 
the result being satisfactory. The main point 
is, in lifting the tree, to begin taking out the 
soil far enough from the stem to work quite 
under the ball of roots without cutting them, 
and to have a hole large enough for them to be 
spread out in without cramping them up. Tread 
in firmly, and stake securely.—J.G., Hants. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Extracts from a Garden Jiic.ry — January 7 
to January 12. 

Sowing a few rows of Little Gem Peas close to a south 
wall. Repotting plants of Calceolaria anren floribunda 
into 8-inch pots for spring flowering. Putting in cuttings 
of Nasturtiums and Heliotropes. Putting in Vine eyes. 
Planting remaining fruit trees. Putting in plants to 
force for stands and cut flowers; also another batch of 
Asparagus. Putting Asparagus tops over Peas Just peeping 
above ground to keep off sparrows, and to ward off frost; 
owing to the lightness of this material, the Peas grow 
right through it. Painting Apple and Pear trees with 
three parts lime and one part soot, mixed with water to 
the consistency of paint. Digging Rose borders; also 
land for succession Peas. Sowing a border of Parsley, 
Parrots, Radishes, Alexandra and Paris Cos Lettuces, and 
Waicheren Cauliflower in frames. Potting some Tuberoses 
and placing them in heat to force. Putting in cuttings 
of Coleus, Crotons, and more Alyssums ; also a little 
Musk in slight heat weekly. Nailing Roses on walls. 
Putting some red worsted over Peas that are coming up 
tl keep off birds ; also sooting Gooseberries for the same 
purpose. Finishing pruning Gooseberry trees. 

Putting in cuttings of Ageratum and Solanum caps!- 
castrum. Getting all Roman Hyacinths in flower into 
greenhouse. Putting Kidney Potatoes into hampers 
to sprout. Cleaning scale off Camellias and one or two 
other plants. Making up hotbed for tree Carnation cut¬ 
tings Loosening shoots of Peach trees on wall ready 
fir pruning. Clipping Privet hedges. Digging vacant 
ground. Sowing Advancer and Laxton's Alpha Teas, 
Long-pod Beans, some Dutch Turnips, and Melons. Pot¬ 
ting Mrs. Pollock Pelargoniums. Shaking out and re¬ 
potting Daturas and Krythrinums. Putting in more 
cuttings of Salvia patens, Fuchsias, Nepetas. Alyssum, 
Agathiea, Achyranthes, and Coleus. Planting Seakale for 
forcing; also Potatoes as fast as they are ready for 
planting. Tying pillar Roses. Forking amongst Goose¬ 
berry trees, giving them a sprinkling of guano. Removing 
suckers from fruit trees. Sowing Golden Feather Pyre- 
thrum, Centaurea argentla, and more Mignonette in pots. 
Potting Kalosanthes Into large 3-inch pots in very sandy 
soil, and placing them on Bouth side of greenhouse. 
Putting and basketing Dendrobiums. Striking cuttings 
of Dracmna termlnalls in strong bottom heat Planting 
more Potatoes in pits ; also Ash-leaved Kidney and 
Myatt’B under Peach wall. Liming and sooting the Goose¬ 
berries and Currants. Sowing Cyclamen seed and putting 
it into cutting pit: also Auricula teed and putting it into 
greenhouse; likewise a few Tripoli pnlon seeds In beat, 
and Red and White Cole-7 order glut an a manure bed. 
Potting Gardenias. , {iiv>. Mb tWfl^halr Ferns, and 


putting them into 3-inch pots. Totting some autumn- 
struck Fuchsia cuttings. Layering Tree Carnations. 
Nailing Apricots. Covering Celery with straw to pro¬ 
tect it from severe frost. 

Glasshouses. 

Gardenias. —There are few, if any, flowers 
held in greater estimation or that are more diffi¬ 
cult to produce during the depth of winter than 
Gardenias, for even where there is a large 
stock that have been especially prepared for 
blooming at this season, and with plenty of heat 
at command, they open very slowly without sun. 
The best means in order to have these flowers in 
winter is to get the crop of buds well forward in 
autumn, to keep the plants with their heads 
close up to the glass in a light house where there 
is a good supply of heat at command, being 
careful not to give too much water at the roots, 
or to keep over much moisture in the atmos¬ 
phere, and not to uBe bottom-heat, as any of 
these conditions are sure to cause the buds to 
fall off a little before they should open. G. 
citriodora deserves a place wherever delicately- 
scented flowers are liked ; small and in appear¬ 
ance unlike others of the family, it is much 
easier to have it in bloom through the winter 
months where there is sufficient heat to induce 
the flowers to open; it takes up very little room 
and is a profuse bloomer. 

Bougainvillea glabra. —This, the freest 
flowering and most easily managed of the Bou¬ 
gainvilleas, can be had in bloom early if plants 
with well ripened wood are at hand. Where 
they have been dried off so as to cause the leaves 
in a great measure to fall, the plants may be cut 
in, removing the small shoots that are too weak 
to produce flowering growths, and shortening to 
a convenient length the strongest; after this, if 
the ball of earth is very dry it will be best to 
soak it for several hours in a vessel of tepid water 
large enough to admit of the ball being covered. 
This Bougainvillea requires plenty of root room; 
if too much confined the quantity of flowers will 
be proportionately limited; consequently, if 
larger pots are needed they should be given be¬ 
fore the plants are started, but in this caee there 
must not be any disturbance of the roots. Where 
no potting is required, manure water should be 
given as soon as growth has fairly commenced. 
A brisk heat is necessary to get it to move 
freely at this early season, but with 65° in the 
night and a rise by day proportionate with the 
weather it will be in flower in about ten weeks, 
and when started at this time and kept going in 
a temperature as above indicated it will bloom 
three times before the season for again putting 
it will have arrived. 

Camellias. —Where these have not yet had 
their annual cleaning by sponging the leaves and 
removing any scale insects that may exist on 
the shoots, it Bhould at once be attended to. In 
the neighbourhood of towns, where the atmos¬ 
phere is charged with soot, they are greatly 
benefited by having their leaves sponged two or 
three times a year. If the plants are turned out 
in beds—and still more so when grown in pots 
or tubs in conservatories, where some warmth is 
kept up during the winter—especial care must be 
taken that the atmosphere, as well as the soil, is 
not allowed to get dry, or the buds are sure to 
drop; this is particularly the case with the white 
varieties, which are more easily affected in this 
way than the others. Where any large plants of 
inferior kinds exist that it is intended to graft 
with better sorts, they may now be headed down 
and grafted. Many of the numerous ways in 
which grafting is performed will answer, but if 
the plants are large and the stems a considerable 
length before branching out, they may be cut 
down 8 inches or 10 inches above the collar and 
cleft-grafted, putting in four or six, binding the 
stock round so as to keep the scions in their 
places, surrounding the whole with ordinary 
grafting clay, after which they may be placed in 
a house or pit where a little extra warmth is 
kept up. Camellias succeed best when grafted 
thus eariy, before the sap is about to rise, as if 
the work is deferred too long the flow of sap is 
such as to often prevent the grafts taking. 

Conservatory.— After the clearing out of 
Chrysanthemums from conservatories, there is 
often some falling off in the display. This 
should be remedied by having ready to take 
their places such plants as come into bloom either 
naturally at that time or with a little forcing. 
For this purpose there are few things better than 
thedifferentvarieties of winter-flowering Salvias. 
These, combined with Camellias, forced Lilacs, 


Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, Cyclamens, Priam- 0 
las, double and single, early sown Cinerarias, 
pot Mignonette, EpacriBes, Correas, Genistas, 
and Azaleas, will, if grown in sufficient 1 
quantities, keep up a display little inferior to 
that which may be looked for later on. It is 
well, in particular, to urge the claims of 

Azaleas for conservatory decoration in the 
two dull months, December and January,during 
which time there is no more difficulty in having 
them in good blooming condition than there is 
later on, provided the plants have been properly 
prepared by having their growth made early and 
their buds set, but this cannot be done by 
turning the plants out-of-doors to set their buds 
when the growth was partially made the summer 
previous. To have them in good blooming order 
in winter they must be kept tolerably warm 
under glass through the summer, so that their 
buds are plump and big, looking as if they were 
ready to burst by the middle of September. 
Managed thus there will be no difficulty 
experienced in getting the flowers to open freely 
in a moderate heat in November. In this way 
there is no forcing in reality required, such as 
would cause the blooms to come soft in texture, 
making them of little use for cutting. Medium- 
sized plants are best for the purpose, and they 
should never be stopped, but be allowed to grow 
(as they will do if kept clear from insects) a 
little loose and vigorous, which admits of half 
the flowers they produce being cut with a fair 
length of wood attached to them, a way in which 
they are of much more use than when the growth 
is stumpy and Bhort. 

Fuchsias. —Young plants struck from cut¬ 
tings at the latter end of summer, and that have 
been kept on growing slowly in an intermediate 
temperature, will now require larger pots, for if 
ever they are allowed to become at all cramped 
for want of pot room, they will not move freely 
afterwards; such as have occupied 5-inch or 
6-inch pots may be moved into others 2 inches 
or 3 inches larger, using good tarfy loam with 
a little leaf-mould, some thoroughly rotten 
manure, and Band in proportion to the greater or 
less quantity which the loam naturally contains; 
but Fuchsias do not require the soil to be quite 
so open as some other quick-growing plants do. 
Pot moderately Arm, but not so much so as in 
the case of some things of a more permanent 
character; pinch out the points of the shoots lo 
induce a close, well-furnished condition. Some 
varieties require less attention in this respect 
than others, being naturally disposed to branch 
out without stopping. A well-grown Fuchsia 
should, when in bloom, present a dense mass cf 
pendent shoots drooping from a single stem, each 
clothed with healthy foliage and flowers. This 
state can he secured in these autumn-struck 
plants in a way that it is difficult to accompli® 
with old specimens, or with later spring-struct 
stock, although the latter make nice small ex¬ 
amples, but for large conservatories, where site is 
an object with a considerable portion of the oc¬ 
cupants, autumn-struck plants are the best 


Bedding plants.—I t is now time that ary 
lants that are required in quantity, and of which 
le stock is limited by reason of restricted apsro 
>r wintering, should be started into active 
rowth for the production of cuttings. Coleus, 
■esines, Alternantheras, and variegated Pelar- 
cniums are among those that we have now so to 
art, and of the kinds to be raised from seed the 
illowing are now being sown, viz., Cannae, Cei- 
tureas, Ferdinandas, Grevilleas, Solanum. 
erulas, and Ghamtepencee; all are sown in 
ad covered with glass till germination has takes 
lace; bottom heat required 65°, top heat iO ■ . 
; is too early as yet to sow such quick grown? 
inds as Castor-oils, Hemp, and Maize, because, i 
>wn now, the pots get so full of roots that the 
lants get stunted before planting out time, 
annas that were lifted and wintered in she™ ., 
lay now be divided into single crowns, and bo 
otted in small pots and started into growth, but 
le slower the growth is excited the mere 
ibustly will the crowns come up. Dahlias, too, 
>rts that are required in quantity, should be a 
ice placed in heat; they produce cuttings non 
eely when planted on a bed of leaves in the 
ropagating pit. Cocoa fibre refuse or leaf-** 
just as good to plant them in as the best sou ■>. 
lat can be got. The single varieties are now ao <« 
uch to the front that everyone will he ex--; 
;cted to have them, and new is the time to set 
vout their production. Violas, Calceolarias, ; 



Jan. 5, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


501 


Gaaphaliums, Echeverias, and Sempervivnms in 
cold pits have suffered this season from damp 
more than they usually do from frost, and to 
prevent further mischief in this direction they 
should be frequently picked over, and every 
particle of decayed foliage removed, the surface 
soil stirred to hinder Mobs formation and prevent 
a soared state, and air should be freely given 
whenever the weather is fine and unaccompanied 
by a frosty air. 

Flower Qarden. 

Abutiloks. —Amongst these the best bedders 
are Due de Malakoff. which has very large flowers, 
in colour like those of the old striatum; Boule de 
Neige, white; Lemoinei, sulphur-yellow; and the 
variegated kinds Darwini variegatum and Thom- 
soni variegatum. The two last are effective as 
“ dot ” plants in large masses of Pelargoniums or 
dart-leaved plants used for the sake of their fo¬ 
liage, and they are almost equally well suited for 
passing by themselves, but still better for plant¬ 
ing thinly over entire beds, and using either 
Violas, Verbena venosa, or Verbena Purple King 
in the interstices, the whole forming one of the 
finest “ shot silk "bed arrangements that can be 
conceived. The preceding kinds are the most 
effective when used singly either as centres or 
eqai-distant over large beds of naturally dumpy¬ 
growing bedding plants. All the kinds are best 
propagated in autumn ; they strike readily in a 
frame if afforded a bottom heat of 65°. As soon 
as struck they should be taken out and wintered 
in store pots in a cool house or pit, and at the be¬ 
ginning of February be potted off singly in good 
loam, and be grown on sturdily till planting out 
time at the end of May or early in June. 

Fruit. 

Orchard houses. —If the roots of the early 
trees were in a satisfactory condition when 
forcing was commenced, the blossom-buds will 
now be swelling fast, and the earliest kinds will 
be ready to expand. When this stage has been 
attained fumigate the house to destroy any 
green-fly which the gentle warmth may have 
brought into existence, otherwise it will prove 
extremely troublesome, and do serious mischief 
to the crop before the later kinds have set their 
fruit. Pay particular attention to watering and 
stringing with tepid water until the blossoms 
begin to expand, and avoid wetting the trees 
luring the time they are in flower, but on no 
account allow the roots to suffer for want of water. 
Allow the temperature to range from 50° to 55° 
on mild nights, with a little air, to 60° or 65° on 
fine days, with an increased circulation, and 
impregnate the flowers with a camel-hair pencil 
about noon when the house has reached the 
maximum and the atmosphere is dry. Where 
the trees have been removed to the open air from 
later houses to make room for other subjects, 
preparations must now be made for replacing 
them under glass, as, owing to the mildness of 
the season, the bads on many of the Peaches, 
Plums, and Cherries are now getting forward, 
and, unless they are protected with nets or care¬ 
fully watched, small birds in wooded districts 
will soon destroy the most prominent, smd, of 
coarse, the most valuable flowers. If cleansing 
and painting has been delayed, get it done at 
once ; examine each tree as it is drawn out of 
the plunging material, wash the shoots with 
strong soapy water to free them from scale, scrub 
the pots, and see that the drainage is satisfac¬ 
tory. If space is limited, Pears may be left out 
till next month. In the final arrangement of the 
trees. Peaches, Nectarines, and Figs should 
occupy the warmest part of the house, Plums, 
Cherries, and Pears the coldest; but choice kinds 
of the latter will be improved by removal to a 
Iwarm, airy situation when the fruit is swelling 
[and ripening. If pot Strawberries are grown in 
Orchard houses, they should be placed on shelves 
bear the glasss, where they can be well syringed 
gid have the full benefit of light and solar heat 
Vegetables. 

All Ashtops and early varieties of Potatoes 
ould now be exposed to the light. The main 
jject is to keepthem back ; longwhite growths 
>t only ■weaken the tubers themselves, but have 
tendency to invite disease. The more robust 
id wood-like stems our Potatoes have, the less 
e have to fear from disease. Later varieties 
til also be greatly benefited by exposure and 
tming over, that is, the stock for next season's 
fknting : those used for food should never 1 o 


Broccoli, cutting close to the surface of the 
ground all heads that are showing, and stack 
them up close together in a shed. In this way 
they last for a very long time in the best possible 
condition at this season. It is a fact that cannot 
be too widely know that 4° of frost on Broccoli 
or Cauliflowera not only spoils their colour, but 
also their flavour; therefore be not caught 
napping. Digging and trenching all land as it 
becomes vacant should be proceeded with, and 
at this season, when families assemble together, 
give the garden an extra clean up. The weather 
being still mild, supplies in the forcing depart¬ 
ment are abundant without much trouble. Our 
winter Tomatoes are looking well, and we get 
from ten pounds to twelve pounds a week of very 
good fruit—a valuable addition to our esculents. 
Cucumbers are doing well. Keep the shoots 
thin, the house shut and not too damp, and 
success is sure to follow. Of Asparagus, Seakale, 
and Rhubarb keep up plentiful supplies, as 
formerly directed, and at the same time use your 
own discretion in the matter. Mustard and 
Cress, Tarragon, and Chervil all now want 
attention. These things, though small, are of 
great importance; so keep up good stocks of all 
by sowing and replanting. 


sitjected to light. Look over^ejnar^r^ 


HOUSE AND WINDOW GARDENING, 

FINE LEAVED BEGONIAS. 

What an excellent room plant is the old Be¬ 
gonia Rex. For many months at a time, with 
ordinary care, it will endnre the atmosphere of 
a warm sitting room, provided only that gas be 
not used. Unfortunately, it is a plant so fre¬ 
quently and cleverly imitated, that the success¬ 
ful grower is only too apt to be greeted, as the 
writer has often been, with an expression of sur 
prise that his plants are real. In spite of that 
little drawback,, this species and some of its 
varieties are so well worth growing for certain 
purposes and positions, that a brief reference to 
their culture may be of use. To begin with, 
these fine foliaged Begonias, though generally 
grown in the warm moist air of a stove, are more 
hardy than is often supposed, and are perfectly 
amenable to culture in any structure, whether 
room or greenhouse, where they can be kept safe 
from actual frost, but in the latter case they 
must be chosen from a stock that has been well 
hardened off. It cannot be too strongly insisted 
upon that plants taken from a stove must be 
gradually inured to a change of temperature. 
Neglect of this needful and, as one would sup¬ 
pose, very obvious precaution is a frequent source 
of failure and disappointment. For this reason 
plants should be obtained in early summer, that 
there may be more chance of their being accli¬ 
matised to such temperature as can be accorded 
to them. 

Begonias of this type, unlike most of those of 
the tuberous section, dislike bright snnshine, but 
it is a mistake to think that they do not thrive well 
in light. Where it is possible to give them a 
position out of the direct rays of the sun, as, for 
example, on brackets close to a light window, 
the growth is shorter and more sturdy than 
when they are placed against the back wall of a 
room or corridor; but in room gardening 
we are often obliged to make the best of posi¬ 
tions not in every respect suitable, and these 
useful Begonias adapt themselves in many 
ways to such circumstances. It is best to grow 
them in small well-drained pots, in a compost of 
loam and peat, with a good sprinkling of road- 
grit or coarse sharp sand to keep it open. Bnt 
the one essential point in their successful culti¬ 
vation in the house is the due regulation of 
meusture. TMb is always a matter of difficulty 
with plants which are used for room decoration, 
and deserves careful consideration. It is not sim¬ 
ply moisture at the root, which is comparatively 
easy to provide for, but the keeping up of a cer¬ 
tain dampness of air about a growing plant, 
which will help to replace the moisture that is 
being continually given off from the surface of 
the leaves. With Begonias, the effect of want 
of sufficient moisture is to cause the edges 
of the leaves to crack, turn brown, and shrivel, 
which spoils their beauty. By some it is said to 
be better, if possible, to avoid wetting the foliage 
by syringing overhead, though this is sometimes 
necessary, to get rid of unavoidable dust. The 
question is how to arrange, especially in a sitting 
room, for this needfnl degree of dampness. 
When plants are grown on a flat surface, such as 
table or stand, the best plan is to have a zinc 


tray to fit it, filled with pounded oharcoal kept 
constantly wet, upon which to stand the pots. 
From its purifying properties, charcoal is the 
best material to use for the purpose, as it prevents 
the upleasant damp fustiness which is apt to aril e 
from sand or gravel soddened with moisture. 
When, on the other hand, the plants are to be 
placed against the wall of a sitting-room, the 
carved oak brackets, made on purpose to contain 
a pot, and lined with tin, which are sometimes to 
be met with, look exceedingly well, and are large 
and strong enough to contain similar plunging 
material. Some contrivance of the kind will be 
found very conducive to the healthiness of Bego¬ 
nias and other pot plants, which me apt to suffer 
from the dry air of a heated room. Begonias of 
the Rex class are especially well adapted also 
for planting amongst Ferns in the wired peat 
walls, which are now coming into more general 
use, for the purpose of utilising the brick ends 
and sides of greenhouses, which must be always 
more or less unsightly. Thera they lend a 
grace of colour and contrast of form not to be 
rivalled, while they ask far little indulgence 
beyond freedom from frost, and in such positions 
it is easy to supply all the moisture required. 

For windows reaching to the floor, a low 
basket-stand, with a wooden framework slightly 
raised from the ground on castors, is one of the 
best designs. Its shape, whether oval, or octagon, 
round or oblong, must depend on the space it is 
intended to occupy. In such a stand it is easy 
to sink a moveable tray, three inches in depth, 
to hold the damp substratum of charcoal recom¬ 
mended above, aud groups of plants might be 
arranged to fill it with the best effect. A charm¬ 
ing winter combination for a basket of this kind 
may be suggested as follows:—For the centre, a 
fine bold group of the common white Arum, beau¬ 
tiful alike in foliage and flower, springing from 
an under-growth of these broad-leaved Begonias, 
the spaces round the outer edge to be filled in 
with alternate plants of the Creeping and the 
Dodder Saxifrage. Snch a combination would 
possess the advantage of unity of tone in the 
colour of the foliage with diversity of form, and, 
if well arranged, might give infinite pleasure, 
and present, at the same time, few cultural 
difficulties in a room with a light window where 
no gas is used. But, as an experienced corres¬ 
pondent lately wrote (December 15th, No. 249), 
whose truthful words I can most heartily endorse, 
no one can have this enjoyment “ without the 
constant care, attention, and watchfulness, that 
only the true lover of flowers dreams is necessary, 
if one wishes to keep plants alive and flourish¬ 
ing in London,” or, as it sorely may be added, 
anywhere else. 

The Arum Lily. 

Questions having been asked quite recently 
(10775 and 10782) concerning the culture in 
rooms of the white Arum (Calla sethiopica) and 
the creeping Saxifrage (S. sarmentosa), both of 
which have been suggested above for a plant group, 
we may pass on to say a few words about each. 
The Arum is everywhere acknowledged to be a 
first-rate window plant; and having grown a 
considerable number of them for a variety of 
purposes, I know that none are more easily 
managed. Its former name of Calla has been 
displaced in more recent years by that of 
Richardia mthiopica, by which the plant is now 
generally spoken of, but the pretty old English 
title of Nile Lily is descriptive, if not botanically 
true. In the last century it came into cultiva¬ 
tion chiefly from its excellence as a “ candle¬ 
light” plant, being much used for the decking of 
apartments on the occasion of grand routs and 
similar entertainments, just as now it finds 
favour for church decoration; but see it where 
one may, a well-grown plant is sure to excite 
admiration. Nile Lilies are very accommodating 
as to their time of blooming, and should, there¬ 
fore, be so cultivated as to induce them to flower 
in winter. It was formerly the practice to allow 
them to dry off after blooming, but it is now 
found to be a better plan to give them only a 
short resting time for a month immediately after 
flowering, during which they ought to be com¬ 
paratively dry, and then to keep them in a 
growing state throughout the summer. In my 
own garden recently a plan has been tried, 
suggested by the experience of a friend, which 
has resulted in such complete success that it is 
worth putting on record. About the end of May 
or early in June, the plants having by that time 
had sufficient rest, are tamed out, all small 
suckers are removed, and the main growths are 


502 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


("Jan. 5. 1884. 


repotted, either singly or two or three in a pot, 
according to circumstances. The pots are then 
placed close together in a sheltered spot out-of- 
doors, and entirely plunged in a bed of good 
stible manure. An occasional soaking in dry 
weather is all the attention they require during 
the summer months, but before there is any risk 
or frost, the pots are removed into safe quarters. 
No further repotting is necessary, but the plants 
are then kept standing in pans of water. The 
only other precaution taken is to keep the 
foliage free from green-liy, which is easily done 
by gently sponging on its very first appearance. 
With such treatment the broad, deep green 
leaves are almost as ornamental as the great ivory- 
white spathes which are thrown up in succession 
duringtho winter. When Nile Lilies are growing 
vigorously, a drop of water hangs at the point of 
each leaf, showing the rapidity of absorption going 
on, so that an abundant supply at the roots must 
on no account be neglected. It is obvious that 
a country garden is not absolutely necessary for 
such a mode of summer treatment, as a temporary 
frame might be made for the purpose out of an 
old tea chest standing in the sunny corner of a 
London area. The objection to growing Nile 
Lilies in a stand without other plants to form an 
undergrowth, is the great length of their leaf 
shafts, which tower upwards like slender pillars, 
and spread out their arrow headed capitals at a 
height of 3 feet or 4 feet It is on this account 
well to associate Begonias with them, for, with 
a little ingennity of arsangement, these may be 
so placed as to interpose the broad bucklers of 
their leaves to hide unsightly pots, and to take 
away in some degree from the bare ungainliness 
of the lower part of the stems of the Arums. 

Tub Cheeping Saxifrage (S. barmentosa). 

This is an old favourite as a basket plant, and 
is almost always suspended, to allow of its 
numerous runners hanging over the sides of the 
pot. This plan answers well in certain positions, 
such as a verandah or glass-covered corridor, 
but it is nevertheless true that the runners are 
terrible dust-traps, and it is almost impossible 
to keep the plants in presentable order for any 
length of time in a room. In consequence of 
this, it is better for some positions to make a 
practice of removing the runners, which has the 
advantage of throwing greater vigour into 
the crown, and of making it produce 
many more flower stems. The white flowers 
flecked with pink, though not showy, are 
numerous and quaintly irregular in form. 
They grow in branching panicles, and accord 
charmingly with the red brown stems and 
rough mottled leaves. This Saxifrage is a native 
of China, and has long been a favourite inmate 
of cottage windows. It is not so hardy but that 
it iB grateful for shelter during winter. 
During the summer, however, it is all the better 
for being placed in a shady corner out-of-doors, 
where, being a moisture loving plant, it can 
never become very dry. It is freely propagated 
by the plantlets which grow in numbers upon 
its runners. These potted singly in small pots 
soon become fine plants. Many people would 
think it a pity to sacrifice the crimson pendants, 
which are, undoubtedly, a distinctive feature of 
this Saxifrage, and Buch a practice is not 
to be advocated except under adverse 
circumstances, but for the purpose of filling- 
in a plant stand it will be found to answer 
well. No plant has, perhaps, received a greater 
number of popular names than this. Bear's Ear 
(which it shares in common with the Auricula), 
Old Man’s or Aaron’s Beard, Wandering Jew. 
Sailor Plant, Strawberry Geranium, and Mother 
of Thousands (more often applied, however, to 
the Ivy-leaved Toad-flax) are all familiar in one 
country place or another in connection with it. 
Were it not that familiarity, according to the 
proverb, is apt to breed contempt, this Saxifrage 
would take higher rank than it does in public 
esteem, for it is a beautiful plant. The Dodder 
Saxifrage (S. cuscutiformis), a closely allied 
species also from China, is much less common, 
and is somewhat more tender than the last, 
though it succeeds under the same treatment. 
It is smaller in all its parts, with the exception 
of its white flowers, which are individually larger, 
but not so abundant. Its dark green leaves are 
most beautifully reticulated with white, and its 
crimson dodder-like runners are not so rampant, 
neither do they produce plant lets in the manner 
of the Creeping .Saxifrage. This species is propa¬ 
gated by curiousjittle many cornered pink tubers, 

Go gle 


which are produced in considerable numbers 
upon the roots, and it is altogether a very de¬ 
sirable miniature variegated plant. The soil 
best suited to both species is Bandy loam and 
leaf-mould. 

To plant lovers, therefore, who have a light 
and airy window, I commend the above com¬ 
bination for a window plant stand. An area, if 
no better accommodation offers, will give out- 
of-door standing room for most of them during 
the summer, and if it be so arranged that the 
plants, when in their winter quarters, can be 
placed on a surface continually kept moist, the 
effect of the dry atmosphere of a heated room 
will be in great measure counteracted. 

_ K. L. D. 

INDOOR PLANTS. 

Eplphyllum trunoatum— This beau¬ 
tiful winter-flowering plant is well adapted for 
the amateur’s greenhouse or conservatory, as it 
comes into flower at a time when flowers of any 
kind, and especially of brilliant colours, are very 
scarce. It requires no great amount of arti¬ 
ficial heat to grow it to perfection, and, like the 
majority of plants of a succulent nature, requires 
but a small pot to grow a large plant. It does 
not require —in fact, is better without—frequent 
repotting or root disturbance. The stock on 
which I find it grow best is the Pereskia, and 
pieces of this potted in 3-inch pots quickly 
make good stocks. As soon as strong enough, 
take a sharp knife and make an incision in the 
bark ; then take off a side shoot of the Epiphyl- 
lum, cut off the outer skin from the base, 
and slip it into the place prepared for it, bind¬ 
ing it on with soft matting or cotton. It will 
soon unite and commence to grow away freely. 
If intended to form dwarf-standards, one or two 
graftB, put in at about a foot high, is all that is 
required to form a good head, but if for a pyra¬ 
mid, several may be put on up the Btem, and for 
this purpose some of the strongest growing 
Cactuses make good stocks, as they are stiff 
enough to stand without any support, while the 
Pereskia needs staking. The plants may also 
be grown as dwarfs on their own roots, and in 
this way they look well in hanging baskets, as 
the blossoms look far best when the plants are 
elevated well above the line of sight. A com¬ 
post of fibry turf, peat, and old mortar rubbish 
suits this plant well, and a light shelf close to 
the glass is the best position for it; a little 
extra heat when making its growth is beneficial, 
but at other periods it does well in a conserva¬ 
tory or ordinary greenhouse,— James Groom, 
Gosport. 

Chrysanthemum cuttings —The best 
enttings are those that spring from the base of 
the plant, or what may be termed root-suckers, 
but if the plants are kept in a close warm house 
they draw up weakly, and are soon spoiled. The 
best plan is to take them off the parent plant 
directly they are large enough, and dibble them 
round the edges of pots, or in pans or boxes, 
and place them in a frame close to the glass, 
where they soon strike root and keep dwarf and 
sturdy, and by February they will be nice little 
plants, fit for potting off singly. Their sub¬ 
sequent treatment must be regulated by the 
means at command, and above all the purposes 
for which they are required, but the most 
natural form of growth is the most pleasing, for 
anything that is unnatural can only have a 
short-lived popularity at the best. I find that 
if grown in pots or planted out, the Chrysanthe¬ 
mum only needs stopping once to insure a dwarf- 
branched plant to begin with, but if the enttings 
are sturdily grown from the first, and the young 
plants in all stages of growth kept close to the 
glass until they will stand fully exposed in open 
position, that the work of stopping is not 
needed half so much as if the young growths 
get drawn and weakly, for in this case they 
retain the traces of a weakly start until the 
end of their existence, and my idea of a good 
Chrysanthemum is not of the ideal florists’ kind 
with one flower to each shoot, but every shoot a 
perfect truss of flowers. As regards general 
usefulness, there can be no two opinions as to 
the merits of natural shaped plants, grown 
sturdily and freely, with all the flowers that arc 
produced on them until they bloom in all their 
varied shapes, colours and sizes.— J. Groom, 
Gosport. 

Potting off bedding Geraniums.— 

Where autnmn struck enttings have been kept 


in boxes thickly together, it is advisable to get 
them transferred to single pots at the earliest 
date possible, as if left until they are in active 
growth in spring they get drawn up and weakly, 
and even the very smallest pots arc better than' 
leaving them in boxes. For strong growing 
kinds large 3-inch pots are the best, and for 
variegated kinds of weakly habit 2-inch pots 
answer well. Light sandy soil that has been kept 
under cover, bo that it is in a nice dry friable 
condition, should be provided, and when the 
plants are potted set them in an intermediate 
temperature, and water with a fine rosed pot to 
settle the soil about the roots, but until they are 
well established they must be very carefully 
watered, only giving enough to keep the foliage 
from flagging. As soon as the roots have taken 
full possession of the new soil, the plants may be 
transferred to a cold house or pit, as the sturdier 
they are grown the better, and where any spare 
lights are available, the plants may be set out in 
temporary frames early in March, and covered 
with mats at night when frost prevails, the 
object being to get well hardened growth, a» 
plants that have been forced into a soft watery 
growth before they are planted out, never make 
satisfactory growth afterwards, as it takes them 
the greatest part of the summer to get over the 
check they experience when first planted out. 
while those that have been well hardened off 
before planting start away into active root and 
top growth at once, and soon fill the beds — 
J. G., Hants. 

10810. — LUium auratum.— “Liiinm 
wished to know tho best means to prevent worms 
from injuring Lily bulbs in pots. In the first 
place .care must be taken to have no worms ia 
the compost used for potting. Worms are 
generally found in the manure, especially if well 
rotted, which it ought to be When mixing com¬ 
post I always commence with the manure, fr* 
chopping it up fine in a barrow, and then I pat 
a small quantity (just sufficient for the purpose) 
of fallen or dust lime to it, and mix it well 
amongst it, which kills all the worms, large ami 
small. It is then mixed up with the soil, Ac. Tk> 
soil can be easily gone through by tunic, 
it over a few times and picking them out. I 
have seldom a worm many of my pots of Lilians 
after doing as above, although in the outside 
garden I have more than my share of them, the 
garden being an old one. Whenever the pot* 
are placed on the floor, either in or out of the 
greenhouse, always stand them on a piece of 
wood. I keep a few pieces about 8 inches square 
for that purpose. If “ Lilium ” will do as ebov* 
I think he will keep the pots free from wonm. 
Some will, no doubt, recommend soot, but it it 
an article that needs using with very great care, 
especially by novices.—P. Rainfobd, 

10793.— Coleuses. —There is no difficulty ia 
wintering Coleuses if a temperature of 60 3 caa 
be maintained, for in a good brisk temperature, 
and kept up close to the glass, they are even 
more beautiful in winter than in summer 
If “ Bella ” has not got the requisite amount of 
heat, the miserable look of her plants is easily 
explained, for they will grow freely in anj light, 
rich soil. In winter small pots are the led. 
and if a heat of only 50° iB at command, keep 
the plants very sparingly supplied with wutcr, 
as, if they can be kept alive until solar heat in¬ 
creases, they will then soon improve. A> t 
few pots of rooted cuttings will be enough to 
stock a good-sized garden, they may be M 
alive by having a hand-glass placed in 
warmest part of the house, and in this a supplj 
of small Coleuses may be kept alive during th* 
winter. Some of the newest varieties of tht* 
popular plant are very effective by artificial 
light, and for table decorations small phots 
plunged in green Moss look well when fovat 
are scarce.—J. G., Hants. 

10822 .— Spireeaa.— II you want your Spire* k 
flower early, keep in pots indoors, keep moist, *»«f 1 ’ 
liquid manure occasionally. If you do uot , 

inside, they do well planted outdoors in the hemwt* 11 
border.-J. Robertson. 


FRUIT. 

Late Grapes in cool houses.-A g* n 

ral opinion prevails that really late Grape 
to keep in prime condition, fit for dessert aft 
Christmas, require a great amount of fire-hs 
to bring them to perfection, and thus miu 
owners of gardens are deterred from pUotu 
not only the most valuable of market Gripe*, b 



Jan. 5. 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


503 


what is of more importance to many, the only 
varieties that can be kept for mid-winter desserts, 
the very time when home-grown Grapes are most 
appreciated. There is no lack of Vines or 
vineries, bat in nine cases oat of ten Black 
Hambnrghs, or other equally thin-skinned Grapes, 
are planted; and in October and November, da¬ 
ring the damp, moggy weather that usually acom- 
panies the nil of the leaf, these kinds torn 
mouldy and drop off, no matter what precautions 
are taken to preserve them, for although a dry, 
buoyant atmosphere will do much to lengthen 
the season of even these popular summer Grapes, 
it will not make the supply of good sound Grapes 
a certainty after the beginning of December, 


anything like the temperature supposed to be 
necessary for the varieties of Grapes mentioned 
is out of the question. Yet as regards any loss 
from decay I can safely say that there has not 
been a dozen berries cut out of the entire house, 
though it contains a heavy crop of moderate 
sized bunches, i would by no means recommend 
the use of 3-inch pipes in vineries or in any other 
houses, larger ones being better. I merely state 
this to show the possibility of having home¬ 
grown Grapes fit for dessert early in the new 
year with simply ordinary appliances such as 
are available in most gardens. But I may add 
that really late Grapes should have compart¬ 
ments to themselves. There should be no pot 


4 feet to 5 feet long, dig good-sized holes from 
1 foot to 14 feet deep, and tread the soil very 
firm around the base of the cuttings. Shorten 
the tops to about 2 feet high. A partially shaded 
position is the best, and a layer of Cocoa fibre 
or leaf-soil will be beneficial in retaining mois¬ 
ture until roots are emitted. I do not think 
“ B. S.” will have much success with one year old 
wood, as I never found it root so readily as old 
I knotted wood.—J. Gboom. 


LARGE-FLOWERED PLANTAIN LILY. 

■ One of the noblest of hardy plants and of the 
highest utility in beautifnl gardening, whether 
' grouped among summer and autumn flowers or 



Large-flowered Plantain Lily (Funkla graudlflora). 


< 

rt 

r| 


when home-grown Grapes are practically over, 
even in many fair-sized gardens. Now, this is 
intolerableafterthenumberof years daring which 
really good late keeping sorts have been before 
the public, and, where judiciously managed, have, 
done away with the necessity for very early forcing 
After trying and testing most of the late sorts in 
cultivation, I find Lady Downes to be the best 
late black Grape in cultivation, and the true Mus¬ 
cat of Alexandria the best white companion for 
it. As a proof that these can be kept in good 
condition until the new year, I have a vinery 
that is in the usual meaning of the term un¬ 
heated ; it has only a flow and return 3-inch 
pipe in it, and these are a long way from the 
boiler, a saddle one of by no means recent date, 
and which, having to heat a quantity of piping 
besides those in the vinery, are never anything 
more than warm; therefore the maintenance of 

Digitized by CjOOQlC 


plants in such houses, and if this were done there 
would be no difficulty in keeping the fruit sound, 
for that in question had no fire heat at all untii 
many consider it time for late crops to be ripe, 
and then, as has just been explained, heat was 
applied, but in a very mild form.—G. 

10790.— Planting Apple tree cuttings. 
—Lose no time in patting in the branches of 
Apple trees as cuttings, in fact I like to get 
them in as soon after the fall of the leaf as pos¬ 
sible, as the cut portion gets calloused ; ana as 
some kind of Apples form wart-like excrescences 
on the bark, these quickly form roet when put 
into the ground. I find shoots of several years' 
growth form root far better than youngones. The 
best Bhoots I find for the purpose are the lower 
branches of pyramid trees or bashes that may 
be removed with advantage from trees of several 
years'standing with a fine-toothed saw. If from 


used separately in masses, is Funkia grandiflora. 
It iB one of the plants, of which there are many, 
that are brighter in Bhade than in sunlight, hence 
perhaps its best place is in woods and the shadier 
parts of gardens, where its vivid light green leaf¬ 
colouring and pure white flowers may have their 
fuil value seen against darker masses of leafage 
or shadowy places. The Lily-like flowers are 
strongly scented like the white Lily—too strongly 
to be available for use indoors, but the leaves are 
always beautiful in important decorations of cut 
flowers and last long in water. As to flowering, 
this fine plant appears to be somewhat capricious, 
flowers appearing abundantly some years and not 
at all in others. It flowerB best in a warm, sandy 
soil, though the plant has a rather larger develop¬ 
ment in a stiller one. Exposure to very hot sun¬ 
shine is apt to turn the leaves yellow and wither 
them at the edges; this also points to the 

\JMVcR5ITY Or ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


























504 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Jan. 5, 1884 


desirability of placing them in shade lather than 
in bright light. When grown in pots it makes a 
fine greenhouse plant, and will give a supply of 
pure white-scented flowers in autumn. 


SMALL GARDENS AND WHAT TO DO WITH 
THEM. 

In most suburban districts a great point is made 
by the person who has the letting of the houses 
of the fact that there Is a nice garden, or a large 
garden, although as a matter of fact there are 
only a few fods df gfduhrt attached to the house, 
find ^ eVdh then this “ large garden 1 ’ is In two 
portions, one in front and one in the rear of the 
house. Now, to deal with these in anything 
like the manner a really large garden is dealt 
with, is quite out of the question, and therefore 
a few notes on the subject may not be out of 
(flace at this season, especially as now is a good 
time to make afly alterations that may be 
necessary. In the first place a plan or 
Design of the garden should be made to scale, 
the house and its doors, Windows, Ac., being 
accurately marked out, and those windows from 
which the chief view of the garden will be taken 
particularly noted. The positions and extent of 
any established trees should also be accurately 
marked down, as these often have a great amount 
of influence over the plan in which the garden shall 
be laid out. Carefully note the levels of the 
ground, and if more soil Is needed such should 
be marked on a sheet of paper, while if anything 
has to be taken away such should also be marked 
down. Having got the outlines of the place on 
paper, the next thing is to decide on the form 
the garden shall assume when finished, and to 
a very great extent this will depend on the indi¬ 
vidual taste of the owner. In all small places 
formality is sure to be more or less present, and 
it is not possible to have any good effect of the 
nature of a landscape unless other gardens or 
grounds can be made to assist in the matter, 
and it is not often that these can be brought in, 
particularly in the close proximity of towns, 
where the houses are in long rows, and the gar¬ 
dens—we give them this title by courtesy—are 
divided by walls. Generally each plot of ground 
is a trifle wider than the house, and as long as 
the form of the building plots allow, but some¬ 
times the shape is somewhat different. Taken 
as a general rule, only the simplest arrangement 
is possible if the best effect is to be produced, 
and straight lines or easy curves, or sometimes 
both combined, give the best effects in real prac¬ 
tice, although on paper they are not so effective 
as complex 

Geometrical arrangements, which, carefully 
drawn and nicely coloured in with contrasting 
colours, look very pretty on paper, but are 
really very unsatisfactory when worked out on 
Mother Earth. For a small place, simplicity is 
actually a necessity, and as nearly everyone who 
has a garden, let it be ever so small, desires a 
piece of green lawn, a fair percentage of beds 
and borders, and the necessary paths for free 
locomotion, it will readily be seen that very in¬ 
tricate designs cannot well be worked out. At 
the same time it is, of course, within the province 
of the owner of any garden to decide how and 
in what form his garden shall be arranged, bnt 
at the same time he will neither please himself 
nor his friends by adopting an unsuitable design. 

A garden, whether it be large or small, should 
be a place of rest and repose, and make it as 
smart and ornamental as we may, it is yet rest¬ 
ful if we do not go into irritating vagaries in 
planting and design. Having settled the de¬ 
sign, the next thing to be dealt with is the 
actual laying out of the place, and from actual 
practical experience we advise that this be done 
by contract by some trustworthy man conver¬ 
sant with this class of work, and if the plan, 
specification, and contract are properly drawn 
up, the work is sure to be done well, and far 
more cheaply than if done by day work. Care 
should be taken that 

Beds and borders should be quite 18 inches 
deep in good soil when finished, and according 
to the locality, should or should not be manured, 
for while in country places manure is an advant¬ 
age, in towns it is not, one load of maiden loam 
being worth two of manure in a town, as the soil 
is sure to be well charged with carbon and nitro¬ 
genous matters in a very short time, such matters 
being plentifully carried about in theatmosphere. 
All ground for the raeeption of plant| should be 


dug at least 18 inches dee 


; districts 


adequate provision for tbe drainage away of 
superfluous Water should be provided both for 
borders and 
Lawns, which need drainage as badly as the 
borders, becanse where the bottom is wet, the 
Grass does not grow in any form. The soil 
under a lawn should be dug levelly to a depth 
of from 9 inches to 1 foot, and in digging the 
earth should be chopped and broken up fine, and 
if very stiff sandy road scrapings or other friable 
soil should be mixed with it, so that the water 
should not lie on the surface during the con¬ 
tinuance of rainy weather, as snch tends to rot 
oat the finer Grasses. Having got the space dug 
over where the lawn is to be, it should be well 
trodden and compressed to render settlements as 
nnlikely as possible, and should then be chopped 
over and raked smooth preparatory to patting 
down the turf. Good turf from a pasture free 
from weeds should be chosen, and these should 
be cut about an inch thick, 1 foot wide, and 
3 feet long, bnt generally a hundred turves are 
out from a rod of ground. When laid the lawn 
should be rolled and beaten level, and the edges 
cut square and true with the edging knife, which 
is a semicircular blade affixed to a long handle. 

PATHS should be taken ont G inches or more 
in depth and be filled In with brick rubbish or 
coarse gravel, at least 4 inches in thickness, and 
on this 2 inches of fine gravel should be placed, 
and the whole rolled down tight and hard, and 
kept rolled, as in small places there is a much 
greater proportionate thickness of hard material 
necessary to withstand the greater amount of 
hard wear they receive over the paths in larger 
establishments where, owing to the size of the 
place, the traffic is not so much concentrated. 
Good paths are a necessity, as are also 
Edgings to borders, &o., abutting the paths, 
or the Boil will be carried on to the gravel in 
raking, digging, &c., and the tidy appearance of 
the whole garden will be spoiled thereby. 
Amongst the permanent edgings which are 
suited for smoky districts, the hard Staffordshire 
tiles are perhaps the best, as they do not dis¬ 
colour, aud being proof against frost are not 
liable to break or flake away in winter. Where 
live edgings are preferred, Grass or Box may be 
used, and have a neat appearance when well 
kept. In places where the air is free from an 
excess of smoke, Gentians and other low grow¬ 
ing plants planted amongst stones look ex¬ 
cellently well, and are of bnt little trouble to 
keep in good condition. Ivy, too, of the sraall- 
leaved kinds, makes very good and neat edgiDgs, 
and may often be used very advantageously. In 
any case the edging chosen must be such as will 
keep in good condition and have a tidy appear¬ 
ance throughout the year, as on tidy appearance 
much of the interest of a small place depends. 
The 

Walls should be covered with greenery of 
some kind, and in many cases Roses, and other 
flowering subjects would probably be chosen, 
while in others fruits of various kinds would 
have precedence, Morello Cherries, Gooseberries, 
Currants, not to mention Peaches, &c., coming 
well in some places. This is, however, a matter 
in which individual taste must decide, but never 
attempt anything which experienced gardeners 
say will fail. For the general beauty of a gar¬ 
den ordinary walls are not best calculated to 
add anything, but covered with foliage and 
flowers they are certainly passable. In most 
cases, however, live 

Hedges of some kind would be of greater 
value, but owing to the conservative nature of 
the average Englishman, for various reasons 
these are not used. Various Privets, Holly, and 
even Roses of some kinds could be used with 
great advantage, and with ordinary care would 
not need much outlay or after expense. The 
Chinese Privet bears good clusters of creamy 
white flowers, and the Persian Lilac has lavender, 
or what is termed lilac-coloured blooms, while 
Roses can be had in red, pink, blush, white, &o., 
a hedge of Maiden’s Blush being very pretty, 
and forming a good hedge to boot. It is, of 
course, necessary that an iron fence of some 
kind be inside the hedge to keep people from 
rushing through in places where a passage is 
not intended, and this, while much less in cost 
than a wall, is equally as effective. Too many 
Trees of a larger growth should not be used, 
as they are decidedly out of place in a small 
garden, and unless to hide an objectionable 
building, should not be planted. At the same 


time an occasional tree of moderate growth, is 
an advantage at times, as it relieves the monotony 
of a level piece of ground. To secure, however, 
the best results from tbe planting of trees, the 
whole of a large space should be taken in hand, 
but as this cannot well be done with a number of 
small plots, only a few of moderate size, or which 
can be kept of a moderate size by judicious 
pruning, should be planted, and these should 
be of kinds that will thrive in the position they 
are intended to occupy. The choice of 

SHBuns, either evergreen or deciduous, win 
lie in the owner of the garden, bnt a few of 
suitable kinds are an advantage in breaking up 
the monotonous level and sameness which exists 
in almost all small places. Evergreens, like 
Euonymus, Aucubas, and others, which do pass¬ 
ably well in close places, have a good effect both 
in summer and winter, while flowering Currants, 
Lilac, Privet, Dentzias, Weigelas, and other 
deciduous subjects brighten the place with their 
flowers. On this point, however, individual 
taste has to be consulted, as what one would 
esteem as meeting his idea of a nice garden, 
another would consider positively ugly. The 
same will be the case with the spring and 
summer occupants of the garden, for while one 
person will go in almost exclusively for bedding 
plants, another will select hardy herbaceous 
subjects, and others again will go in for a 
combination of the two. The chief thing to be 
done, however, is to select only snch things as 
will thrive and succeed in the position in which 
it is placed, and on this point local knowledge is 
the only safeguard. The 

After treatment of the garden is, of 
course, of importance, and where there is no 
greenhouse, does not need a vast amount of 
labour of a hard nature, constant attention being 
the main point, but at the same time a little 
hired assistance for the rougher work will gene¬ 
rally prove of value. With a light-running 
mowing machine, such as the “ Excelsior," a 
Dutch hoe, rake, short and long-handled shears, 
hammer, and nail bag, and a light bass broom, 
anyone who cares for his garden can keep it in 
good order, or if such would take up too much 
of his time, in mo6t places there are working 
gardeners who will contract for the whole of the 
work at from £5 to £20 per year, according to 
the size of the place, and it will always be in 
good order when this plan is adopted. With all 
small places tidiness is the chief point, and if 
the paths and borders are free from weeds and 
rubbish, and the Grass is kept mown and rolled, 
even if there are but few plants used, a very 
decent appearance can be kept up, and tbe place 
will not be unpleasing to the eye. Where there 
is a greenhouse and perhaps poultry runs, kc., 
the cost of keeping the place will, if hired labour 
is solely used, be much more, but, of course, the 
pleasure of having a clean, tidy place is much 
greater than where dirt and disorder reign 
supreme, the pleasure in a dirty and untidy 
place being almost nil. WALTER J. May. 

Wallon-on-Thamct. 


VEGETABLES. 


EARLY FORCED VEGETABLES AND 
SALADS. 

At no season of the year is there such a general 
desire for vegetable food, and especially for 
salads, as in the early spring, and even in gar¬ 
dens of the most limited dimensions it is sur¬ 
prising what may be done with very simple con¬ 
trivances to meet the demand. A few spare 
movable lights and boards, with leaves, stable 
litter, and some good friable soil, will produce, 
by means of unremitting attention, produots fit 
to set upon the table of a king. 

Potatoes. —Amongst the most generally es¬ 
teemed vegetables are Potatoes of the early 
kidney varieties, and these may be growa to 
perfection in ordinary frames or pits, filled with 
leaves, to give a gentle bottom heat, and on 
this about 1 foot of fine light soil. Three rows 
may be planted to an ordinary light ef a Cucum¬ 
ber frame, in drills about 6 inches deep. Tbe 
tubers of these early varieties of Ash-leaf Kid¬ 
ney (that are the best for the purpose, as they 
make but little haulm, and formgood-sized tubers 
in the least time of any) will now be in active 
growth, and groat care should be taken to pre¬ 
serve the first shoots, r.s they ere the strongest 
and best. It is a good plan to put then) in single 



Jan. 5, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


50 5 


■boxes when stored away, as the shoots then 
keep very dwarf and sturdy, but if stored in 
bulk they draw up weakly, and have to be rubbed 
off before planting. After they are planted, 
ventilate freely on warm sunny days, and cover 
securely at night, and keep the lights pretty 
close when keen winds prevail, for nothing is so 
trying to tender vegetation as harsh winds. 

Asparagus maybe easily forced by means of 
a bottom heat obtained by mixing leaves and 
stable manure together, treading them very 
firmly so that the heat will be lasting. Take the 
Asparagus roots up carefully, and after putting 
3 inches of soil on the manure, spread out the 
roots, placing the crowns as close together as pos¬ 
sible, and cover with from 4 inches to 6 inches 
of light soil, give a good soaking of water, and 
cover the lights securely with hay and mats over 
it until the shoots appear, when light and air may 
be admitted to colour the Grass. Should the 
heat decline before the growth is exhausted, add 
external linings to keep the crowns pushing up 
until the whole are exhausted. 

Seakale may be easily brought forward in 
any darkened chamber or cellar where the heat 
is high enough to promote growth, and the more 
perfectly light and air are excluded, the more 
perfectly white and mild-flavoured will the pro¬ 
duce be ; where any kind of boiler for heating 
glasshouses is in constant use, any large tub or 
box may be set over the brickwork, or main 
pipes, and in this the roots of the Kale may be 
planted as close together as they will stand, 
and by putting in a few every week, and taking 
out the crowns that have been cut, it will not 
take a very large box to supply a family, or 
large flower-pots may be utilised by plunging 
about a dozen roots in the bottom, and filling 
the top with hay or Moss, so as to thoroughly 
blanch the tops, and as a darkened position is 
the best the pots may be set under stages, or in 
positions that are useless for plants making leaf 
growth. 

Rhubarb may be forced in a similar manner 
to the Seakale only that it is not necessary to 
blanch the young growth so thoroughly, as when 
grown in a brisk heat it comes of a beautiful 
pink colour, and is crisp, juicy, and altogether 
superior to that grown in the open air. A few 
large roots lifted and placed in heat is the 
quickest mode of getting a very early supply, 
and if some large pots or tubs are placed over 
some strong crowns and covered with leaves and 
manure they will yield a supply that will last 
until the earliest varieties out-of-doors oome into 
U9e, for Rhubarb starts naturally into growth 
very early in the season, and if only a slight 
covering of litter is placed over the crowns it 
will materially help to forward its growth, as in 
spring the keen winds are far more hurtful 
than frost. 

Carrots are never more appreciated than as 
an early-forced vegetable. A bed of leaves and 
litter on which to set an ordinary Cucumber 
frame is the best position for growing them. Put 
1 foot of fine soil on the leaves and sow the seed 
in drills abont 6 inches apart, or better still, sow 
alternate rows of Radishes, as these will be fit 
for pulling before the Carrots make much top 
growth, and as soon as the young Carrots get 
large enough to use, pull out the largest for use, 
and thereby give more space to those left. The 
short French Horn is the best Carrot for forcing, 
and the best Radish is Wood's Early Scarlet. 

Lettuce and Endive that have been par¬ 
tially grown oat-of-doors may be finished off 
under glass by planting thickly in cold frames, 
and Endive may be blanched by placing the 
plants lifted with a good ball of earth in a dark 
cellar, or In any warm plant house. Chicory 
roots may also be placed in heat, and the young 
blanched tops make excellent salading. Mustard 
and Cress should be sown about once a week in 
shallow boxes filled with light soil. Spread the 
seed evenly on the surface, water with a fine- 
rosed pot, and cover with boards or slates until 
the seed germinates. The produce will be fit 
for cutting in a few days. A few roots of 
Tarragon. Mint, and Chives are of great service 
in the culinary department, and in a gentle 
beat continue to produce green shoots for a long 
period. James Groom. 

Gosport. 

Celery culture made easy.— I believe I 
bave learned the easie/t s?ay to grow al family 
supply of Celery, We ttjgjf^ip ed W Jl^hot¬ 


bed frame, 3 feet by 12 feet, with Celery plants, 
setting them about 8 inches apart each way, 
making 60 plants in the frame. They have grown 
splendidly, and as fast as,they grow we fill in with 
earth, and they blanch nicely. I believe that they 
would have done as well if planted closer, say 100 
plants in the frame. The advantage is that they 
occupy but little space, are not much trouble to 
cultivate, and require much less water than if 
planted in the usual way, with the rows 6 feet or 
8 feet apart, besides a muchlsmaller quantity of 
earth answers for banking up for bleaching, and 
of course less labour. If one has not a hot-bed 
frame, he can set boards round the edges of abed 
in the garden, and manage in the same way. 
Boards 1 foot wide should be used, and very cheap 
refuse timber will answer for the purpose.— Nero 
York Tribune. 


FORCING FRENCH BEANS. 
Throughout November and December French 
llcans have a greater disinclination to grow than 
during any other months in the year, but with 
the chaDge of the day, and the gradual increase 
of light and heat which we will soon experience, 
there will be less difficulty to get them to succeed. 
The present is an excellent time to sow exten¬ 
sively for fruiting in March and onwards. Of 
all French Beans for growing under glass there is 
none to equal Osborn's Forcing. It is the earliest 
of the early and the latest of the late, and, 
farther, it is dwarf and compact in habit, and 
most prolific—all points of the utmost im¬ 
portance in an under-glass Bean. There are 
various ways of sowing the seed and bringing 
the young plants forward, bat modes of doing 
this which might be the best in April or May 
would not answer very well during the shortest 
days. For instance, when the spring is well ad¬ 
vanced, the seed may be sown in boxes, or in 
8 -inch or 10-inch pots, in which the plants will 
bear pods; but if this was done now, many of 
the seeds would be liable to decay before they 
germinated, and the plants would not grow so 
strongly or rapidly as they will if the seed is 
sown in small pots, from which the plants will 
be transferred into larger ones as soon as large 
enough to handle. Our plan at this season is to 
fill a number of 3-inch pots half full of a light, 
rough mixture of loam and horse droppings, and 
to put six or eight seeds into each. The soil is 
pressed down as firmly as possible, and some of 
it placed on the top of the seeds to the depth of 
half an inch or so. They are then placed in a 
house or pit in which the temperature ranges 
about 60°, and here they get little or no water 
until the first leaves are formed and a few roots 
have been made. This treatment prevents all 
damping or decaying, which must be guarded 
against at this season. When sufficiently ad¬ 
vanced in growth to bear and require water, they 
have a plentiful supply, and then they grow 
freely. It is a great advantage to have them 
near the light and in rather a dry atmosphere. 

As soon as the plants are five inches or 6 inches 
high, and have made half-a-dozen leaves each, it 
will be found that the small pots are well crammed 
with roots, and they should then be shifted into 
larger pots. The 8-inch ones are our favourites. 
They should be welldrained, and the potting mix¬ 
ture should consist of rough loam and horse 
droppings. Finesoilis tobeavoided. Afterpotting 
they may be returned to their old quarters, but 
water should be given sparingly until the roots 
have taken possession of the new soil, when more 
must be given. Those who wish to keep up a 
constant supply of Beans should sow a quantity 
every fortnight. We have kept up a fair supply 
by sowing five dozen potfuls at a time, but this, 
of course, must be done according to the demand. 
At times we have placed only one of the small 
potfuls of young plants in the 8-inch one, but 
where space was limited we have put three small 
potfuls into this size. When this can be con¬ 
veniently done it is a profitable way of growing 
them, as a great many more Beans are secured 
from the pots with the most plants than the 
others, and the space required for both is jnst 
about the same. We have generally to grow our 
spring Beans on back shelves in lean-to houses, 
but we would prefer to have them where air and 
light are admitted on both sides, as in such a 
position the crop would be evener. When in 
bloom the llowers should be kept as dry as pos¬ 
sible, as the fruit forms with more certainty than 
when the blooms are damp. We never allow 
any of the growths to fall over the sides of the 
pots, as this checks them j but when any of them 


are so tall or weak, as not to be able to stand 
without support, pieces of birch from old brooms 
are put in to hold them up. Osborn’s Bean does 
not, however, require so much attention in this 
way, as such kinds as Canadian Wonder, which 
cannot be grown without support. As soon as 
any of the pods become large enough to gather 
they should be removed from the plants at once, 
as there is nothing so mnch against the produc¬ 
tion of a long succession of fruit from the same 
plants as allowing some of the first formed pods 
to become old. Liberal quantities of liquid 
manure assist old plants to keep on fruiting, but 
we do not approve of paying too much attention 
to thismatter, as plants are so very easily raised, 
and young vigorous ones are always the most 
fruitful. J. M. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

( Continued from page 472). 

Primula einenBis and r&rtotlM. 

The single and semi-double kinds should b<3 
sown in March or April, according to the 
time they are required to bloom. Cover the seeds 
rather deeper than wonld be necessary with 
many seeds of similar size, as they are slow in 
germinating; indeed the watering often displaces 
the covering before the seeds make a start, and 
consequently they fail to grow, although a 
covering of moss or a sheet of paper would, in a 
measure, obviate thiB. Indeed all seeds will ger¬ 
minate quicker, and with more certainty, if 
covered with something that will maintain the 
thin stratum of Boil which immediately sur¬ 
rounds them in an even state of moisture. But 
the covering should be removed the moment the 
little embryo plants show signs of growth, and 
from this time forward they should occupy a light 
position, though not necessarily in the full blaze 
of the sun, as such a position is unsuitable for ten¬ 
der things. When large enough to handle, prick 
off, and when established, a close frame on a bed of 
ashes in some open situation will suit them ; but 
as the sun waxes warmer iu summer, a position 
screened from its fiercest rays will be necessary, 
or the leaves will lose colour. All the Primula 
family, no matter wbat country they come from, 
have a fondness for shade in hot weather. After 
June the lights may be removed altogether, 
except during heavy rains, and the plants 
should be shifted into larger pots as they re¬ 
quire it. The soil should be light, but not too 
rich—loam, leaf-mould, and peat in equal parts, 
with sand and charcoal to open it, will Buit all 
the family. It is not well to give too large shifts, 
as good-sized plants may be grown in 6-inch 
pots. Never permit the plants to become pot- 
bound till they occupy their blooming pots, 
whatever size that may be. All plants when 
pinched at the root have a tendency to 
bnrst into flower, and in this case such flower¬ 
ing would be premature, as such plants never 
reach the same perfect development as if grown 
steadily on till the flowering point is reached in 
natural course. In October the plants should bo 
moved to a warm greenhouse to flower, and 
must occupy a light position. At all times all 
through the season the watering must be care¬ 
fully done, as if damp lodges about the plants, 
especially at the base of the leaves, decay often 
sets in, and the plants sustain a good deal of 
injury, and sometimes death ensues. But this 
tendency to decay at the bettom of the leaves 
is very often caused by bad management early 
in life. In the first place, the seeds are sown too 
thickly, and when germination takes place the 
little seedlings are left too long, drawing each 
other up in a weakly condition in the seed-pots 
and as a consequence, the little plants have legs 
abnormally long, and these lODg legs are a great 
source of trouble afterwards, very often lead¬ 
ing to deep potting to get rid of them, and 
as often rendering Bticks necessary to keep them 
steady. All this might have been avoided if the 
seeds bad been sown thinly, and the plants 
grown on in a light position unchecked. 

Heeds. 

A few of the best plants bearing the best and 
brightest flowers should be placed on a shelf in 
alight, dry situation to produce seeds. I like to 
select the seed-bearers from the latest sown 
batch which flower in spring. The flowers 
should be daily gone over with the camel-hair 
pencil when they are dry. Unless this be 
diligently followed up, the crop of seeds will be 
small. By saving seeds from the best flowers 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Jan. 5. 1884 


only, a good strain will in course of time be 
originated, which will annually become more 
valuable. It is best to raise young plants 
annually and discard the old ones, as the young 
plants are best and carry the best foliage. 

Double Pbimulab. 

These are very beautiful, and are also very 
valuable for cutting. Some of the newer forms 
liave large flowers, the single pips of which, when 
wired, sire useful for bouquet making. The double 
forms require much the same treatment as the 
single kinds, only, of course, they must be rooted 
from cuttings or by division of the root stock in 
.spring, whereby it will often happen pieces can 
be detached with roots attached. The division 
for the purposes of propagation is usually best 
effected in spring after the principal flowering 
is over. Old plants may be cut into as many 
pieces as they have shoots or crowns, and each 
should be put into a small pot filled firmly with 
very sandy peat, afterwards placing the pots 
in a nice steady bottom heat of 70° or so. They 
must be kept as close as is consistent with an 
absence of damping, as the latter must be 
guarded against. JSut under favourable circum¬ 
stances there is no difficulty in working up a 
stock, and there are no plants more useful for 
winter work. In dividing the plants in spring 
a few of the healthiest and best may be potted 
on as they are, to form specimens and to show 
what the double Primula is capable of when 
grown in a light house near the glass, but 
shaded from bright sunBhine. They should 
be potted in porous soil, such as rough no¬ 
dules of loam and peat, with plenty of sand 
intermixed. With the watering entrusted to 
an experienced and careful hand, the double 
Primula will give very valuable results. In 
winter the plants should occupy a house 
where the temperature never falls much under 
50°. By taking the cuttings early in spring, nice 
blooming plants will be obtained by autumn. 
During the summer a cold frame is the be6t 
place for them, but they should be housed in 
good time. 

The Chrysanthemum. 

This forms one of the chief attractions of the 
cool conservatory in autumn and winter. 
Though they are easily grown, yet, to produce 
handsome specimens clothed to the base with 
healthy foliace, requires skill and much patient 
attention. Some kinds carry their foliage much 
better than others, and when these varieties are 
discovered, it is well to allow such to predomi¬ 
nate in the collection, as good healthy foliage 
adds much to their effectiveness, and the want 
of it is such a great drawback. If Chrysanthe¬ 
mums are expected to attain their highest point 
of excellence as specimen plants, the cuttings 
should be started in November, and none but 
those in robust halth should be selected. Plant 
singly in small pots, and plunge in cocoa fibre, 
or some similar material, in an old hot-bed, 
where there is just sufficient heat to help for¬ 
ward the steady production of healthy roots, but 
not enough to excite undue growth. In this 
position the young plants may be kept through 
the winter just slightly on the move, receiving 
plenty of air in suitable weather, and protected 
with warm coverings during severe frosts, using 
covering enough to keep out the frost, so that 
they at least maybe partially, if not wholly,un¬ 
covered most days when the sun shines. Generally 
speaking, during frosty weather, turning back 
the coverings at the top to let in light will be 
sufficient. Home kinds of plants may be covered 
up and kept in darkness for several weeks at a 
time in winter, without injury, but I do not 
think the Chrysanthemums belong to the number, 
nor is there any necessity to expose them to such 
an ordeal. The great object should be steady, 
vigorous growth, to insure a strong sturdy base, 
with plenty oE healthy roots, and this is best 
accomplished by giving plenty of time 
hence the value of autumn propagation, 
though at the same time it must be conceded that 
spring propagation also produces good results, es¬ 
pecially inthe production of plants for homedeco- 
ration. But following the fortunesof the autumn 
cuttings, by the end of February or beginning of 
March they will be in nice condition for pushing 
on with the increasing daylight. But all 
through their career they must not be permitted 
to get pot-bound till they are in their flowering 
pots. Neither is it wise to give large shifts, as 
this causes gross growth, which proves trouble¬ 
some to keep ^ItM i^boun^^|Tbo leading 


shoots should be pinched at the right time, to 
keep the plants well furnished and bushy. The 
stopping and potting should not be done at the 
same time, as, on the principle of minimising 
the checks, it is best to do the pinching a short 
time (long enough to allow the buds to burst) 
before the potting. The last stopping should 
be given not later than the middle of July, and 
the last shift not later than the 25th of that 
month. 

Summer Management. 

The plants must have plenty of room. When 
placed close together the leaves suffer and 
become a prey to mildew. They should never 
stand so close as to touch each other. All through 
the spring till the middle of May they should 
receive careful attention in watering, ventilation, 
&c., throwing off the lights in the daytime when 
fine; and when the weather becomes settled after 
the middle of May, the plants should occupy a 
sheltered, though at the same time an open 
position, on a coal-ash bed in the open air, 
having previously for the last month or so had 
the lights drawn off them on every favourable 
opportunity. TheyBhouldbe arranged on the bed 
in lines, so that access can be obtained to every 
plant for the purpose of examination. During 
bright weather the foliage of the plants and the 
ashes beneath and around them should be 
sprinkled daily with soft water. On no account 
must this be neglected, as the health, vigour, 
and freedom from insects depends in a great 
measure upon this being done when necessary. 
Water at the roots, too, must be freely given, for 
Chrysanthemums are gross feeders. Provided the 
drainage is free and the compost used rough 
and fibry, it is not easy to over water when 
the plants have become large and bushy. In 
very bright weather they will require water 
twice a day—morning and evening, with a 
sprinkling over the foliage about 3 o'clock in the 
afternoon in addition. 

Liquid Manure 

must be frequently given when the buds are 
showing, and onwards, varying the kind of 
liquid used occasionally, as plants appreciate a 
change of diet sometimes. Scot water is good 
for nearly all plants for a change. A little guano 
occasionally also may be given with the same 
object in view, as may Standee's or any other of 
the artificials. Soot-water, when clear and weak, 
may be syringed over the foliage occasionally. 
It gives a fine, dark glossy character to the 
leaves, and keeps back insects and mildew. It 
can be made by tying up a peck of soot in a bag 
and sinking it into a barrel of water, Btirring it 
daily for a week. Then drop in a lump of lime 
(about a couple of pounds in weight) to clarify 
it. In syringing, use a quart of the liquid to 
three gallons of soft water. It is a good wash 
for Hoses, or any other plant that requires a 
wash. To prevent is better than to cure, there¬ 
fore use it in time, in fact use it for the sake of 
its health-giving properties. 

Training, &c. 

In order to Bhow the blossoms to the best ad¬ 
vantage, it is necessary to afford them support, 
but the stakes Rhould be neat, and not placed 
conspicuously, and the training should be done 
early, so that both flowers and foliage may appear 
in their natural condition, which could hardly 
be if the plants are left too long untrained. To 
obtain fine flowers, the buds must be thinned, but 
not immoderately, for home use, leaving, of 
course, those that furnish evidence of their fit¬ 
ness to survive, and after a little experience these 
can soon be identified. The plants should be 
placed under shelter of some kind before severe 
frost arrives. A glass roof is best, but 1 have 
often kept them securely under a temporary 
canvas screen that could be rolled up in the day 
time and let down at night. The best compost 
for Chrysanthemums is a good holding loam full 
of fibre, especially for the last shift. It may also 
for this shift contain more nutriment in the 
shape of manure. In the earlier pottings, leaf- 
mould or very old hot-bed manure to the extent 
of one-third should be added to the loam. 
Calcined oyster shells may be advan¬ 
tageously mixed with the soil, as not 
only will they keep the soil open, but add 
to its stimulating constituents. Bone dust in 
small quantities may be also used with benefit, and 
when the loam is light and sandy, clay may be 
mixed with it, first drying it, and then breaking 
it up into a fine dust with a hammer, in which 
condition it at once blends thoroughly with 


the loam. I found a great advantage years ago 
in using clay when I cultivated a poor, hungry 
soil. Another valuable stimulant, too, was night- 
soil for Chrysanthemums, Strawberries, Ac., laid 
up until it got mellow and then mixed with the 
soil. For growing various plants which require 
high feeding, its effect was very marked; in fad, 
since that time I have entertained a very high 
opinion of night-soil as a fertiliser. 

Varieties. 

Lartje-flovcered sections; Befiezed and 1 in¬ 
curved. —Dr. Sharpe, King of Crimsons, George 
Glcnny, Chevalier Homage, I’rogne, Venus, Chris¬ 
tine, Prince of Wales, Mrs. Bundle, Princess 
Beatrice, Empress of India, Queen of Eng¬ 
land, White Globe, White Venus, Mr. Glad¬ 
stone, Jardin des Plantes, C. E. Waters, Mrs. 
Haliburton, Mrs. Heale, Hero of Stoke Newing¬ 
ton, Alfred Salter, Mrs. Forsyth, Golden 
Beverley, Lord Derby, Purple King, Lady 
Hardinge, Lady Talfourd, Pink Perfection, Re¬ 
fulgence, Le Grand, Mrs. Shipman, Mr. Bunn, 
Duchess of Manchester, General Ilainbrigge, 
Her Majesty, Guernsey Nugget, Garibaldi, 
Emperor of China, and Hetty Barker. 

Pompones .—These are indispensable for deco¬ 
ration both in the border and for pot cul¬ 
ture, for the greenhouse or window. Very neat 
little plants may be obtained for the latter pur¬ 
pose by striking the cuttings as late as May, and 
growing several plants in a pot, or by layering 
the points of the shoots still later. Prince Victor. 
Antonius, Jersey Gem, Golden Madame Martha, 
Model of Perfection, CedoNulli in various colours. 
Sunset, Crimson Perfection, La Vogue, Bob, 
Fairy, Rose d’Amour, Little Beauty, General 
Canrobert, Mrs. Dix, Adonis, and Surprise. 

Anemom-ftonercd varieties. —Mrs. Astie, Miss 
Nightingale, Perle, Astrea, Marie Stuart, 
President Morel, Aglaia, Astarte, Antonius, Rose 
Marguerite, Regulus, Firefly, Grace Darling, 
Reine des Anemones, and Virginale. This is 
one of the most beautiful sections of Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, and useful as cut flowers. 

Japanese varieties .—Comte de Moray, grandi- 
florum, Peter the Great, Madame Berther Rend- 
atler, Dr. Masters, Bismarck, Fulton, Bend d'Or, 
Elaine, Mens. Lemoine, Thunberg, Yellow 
Dragon, Lord Ileaconsfield, Reine des Beautfe, 
Chang,Nagasaki, James Salter, Viceroy of Egypt, 
Red Gauntlet, La Ensure, Bouquet Fait, La 
Nymphe, The Daimio, Duchess of Connaught, 
Fair Maid of Guernsey, Ethel, Alba-plena, Meg 
Merrilies, Lady Selborne, The Cossack, and 
Wizard. The Japanese section are very beauli- 
ftil for cutting to fill vases. Sea. 

Chrysanthemum fmtescens ami varieties.— 
These are popularly termed Paris Daisies, from 
their single Daisy-like flowers, and a most dis¬ 
tinct and useful class they are for the greenhouse 
and conservatory, or for the border. Indeed, the 
same plants after flowering all summer in the 
border, if not crowded too much, may be lifted 
towards the end of September, potted carefully, 
and placed in a close house for a time, and may 
be relied on to continue blooming till Christmas 
in a light position with just a little warmth; 
and after resting a few weeks, will begin again 
and continue to put forth crop after crop of 
flowers till the end of the year again. Young 
shoots strike freely in spring in a gentle bottom- 
heat, like an ordinary bedding plant, and in 
summer under a handlight or in a frame kept 
close. 

Petunias, Double ahd Single. 

Both classes are very suitable for pot culture 
inthe greenhouse. About the end of January 
place a plant or two of each kind in a tempera¬ 
ture of 55° or 60°, having previously cut back 
any straggling shoots to make the plants more 
compact, and to induce the production of a 
number of young, soft shoots, suitable for cut¬ 
tings. When these are two inches ioDg take 
them off, cutting smoothly, just beneath a joint, 
removing the bottom leaves, and insert the cut¬ 
tings in pots of sandy soil, plunging the pots in 
a hot-bed having a temperature of about 80°. 
The best and quickest way to obtain good planls 
for pot-culture is to dibble the cuttings singly 
into 2.1-inch pots, as when rooted they can be 
potted" on without any derangement of roots, and 
the fewer checks a plant receives the better. Is 
the young plants progress, they should be moved 
into a house and be placed on a shelf in the full 
light, near the glass, and be shifted on into 
larger pots as. required, not over-potting, nor ye’ 



Jan. 5, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


sol 


permitting them to become pot-bound till they 
receive their final shift. Very nice specimens 
can be grown in 8-inc.h pots, and by starting 
early in the season, they should have received 
their last shift by the end of May. During the 
growing season, when the plants are young, 
frequent attention must be given to lay a good 
foundation by stopping the young growth before 
too much progress is made. The right method of 
pinching is to do it when the removal of the 
terminal bud will suffice. If an inch or two 
of the shoot is taken off, there must be a great 
waste of force. Petunias cannot be grown suc¬ 
cessfully without support; therefore, as soon as 
the plants begin to make progress upward, a 
few neat stakes sufficient to meet their needs 
shonld be used to keep the shoots from splinter¬ 
ing off, which they will do if neglected. As soon 
as the flowers show, diluted liquid manure 
may be given two or three times a week. All 
through their lives Petunias must have a light 
position; they are sun-loving plants, and when 
grown near the glass the flowers come brighter. 
The pots should be well drained, as the plants 
will take a good deal of liquid nourishment 
when in full growth and flowering. To obtain 
very large specimens the cuttings should be 
taken in August, kept moving near the glass all 
winter, and pushed on in alightposition in spring. 
They are not particular as to soil. Fibry loam 
in a mellow condition, rather inclined to be 
sandy, enriched with leaf-mould or old hotbed 
manure to the extent of a third part, will do 
them well. 

To raise new varieties recourse must be had 
to seed, and the more carefully the flowers are 
hybridised and selected, the higher the character 
and quality of the progeny will be. Selecting 
alone, without the trouble of hybridising, will— 
has in fact—done much to improve the Petunia. 
Obtain a packet of seed from a good source, and 
sow it in heat in March, prick off the seedlings 
into pans or boxes, afterwards giving each plant a 
pot to itself, and then wait for the flowers to 
come. As each flower opens we can judge as to 
its merits, and either keep or discard it as we 
wish, and by following up this system of selection 
for a few years, a good and improved strain will 
be the result. Petunia seeds are very small, and 
should only be covered lightly, but good seed 
germinates with the greatest certainty in a slight 
hotbed in March, or on a greenhouse shelf with 
a square of glass over the pot. It often happens 
the smallest, weakest plants among a batch 
of Petunia seedlings produce the best 
Mowers, as the stronger plants are frequently 
coarse in habit, with that absence of refinement 
which breed gives in flowers as in all other things. 
Therefore, if the weaklings are discarded a great 
mistake will be made. 

Varieties of Double Petunia :—Crimson King, 
Antagonist, Miria, Alice, Adonis, Ileauty of Ply¬ 
mouth, Mont Tycho, Hibernia, Miss Hender, 
Lord Chamberlain, Marguerite, Talisman. 

Single Petunias:— Elegance, Canned's 
Favourite, Mrs. S. Hibberd, Regularity, Dr. 
Demny, Beauty, Avalanche, Clairvoyant, Mrs. 
A. Maye, Annie Mann, Mrs. H. Canned. 

E. Hobday. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.! 

SINGLE PYRETHROMS. 

10180.—As so many enquiries have lately been 
made respecting single Pyrethrums, it may be of 
service to describe the way in which they may 
be raised from seed. It must not be expected 
that from seed purchased in the ordinary way 
first-class varieties equal to those sold at a high 
figure can be raised in quantity. But from my 
own experience, I know that it is possible to get 
a fair proportion of good useful flowers well 
worth the trouble bestowed on raising them. I 
have been overhauling my stock lately, and I find 
I have secured a large number of plants from a 
single packet of seed purchased last spring. It 
is, however, only right to say tliat I examined 
the plants when in flower once a week, and 
those I thought worth keeping were labelled and 
the colours put to them. Now that the selected 
plants are ready for permanent planting, I find 
that the colours embrace white, red, bright crim¬ 
son, dark crimson, bronze-red, and pale yellow, 
with several intermediate shades, and I confess 
that I am surprised at the sj^e of t he crowns and 
the large number of roots whichthey hat’d made. 


Sowing. —In order to get the plants to flower 
as early as possible the seed must be sown in 
February. A pan 6 inches deep and from 14 inches 
to 16 inches wide is not too large to hold a 
packet of seed. The pan should be well drained, 
and then filled to within an inch of the rim 
with fine sandy soil, which before sowing should 
be well watered. As the seed is rather small 
and thin, it must be covered very lightly with 
fine soil. The pan should then be placed in a 
warm house and kept regularly moist by careful 
waterings from a fine-rosed watering-pot. The 
seed is not long in vegetating, and when the 
young plants have developed four or five leaves 
they should have a light, airy position, so as to 
strengthen the plants with a view to get them 
strong, and to enable one to remove the pan 
into an ordinary' greenhouse temperature early 
in April for a week or two. Early in the month 
of May they should be potted off singly into 
3-inch pots, giving them a rather rich soil, and 
as soon as potted place them in a close warm 
frame or pit, treat them kindly for another 
month, and then harden them off and 

Transplant them in the open ground where 
they are to flower. The position should be a 
rather warm one, the soil rich and deep, and 
broken up into fine particles, that the roots may 
soon lay hold of it. Under such circumstances 
it is surprising what rapid progress they make. 
We flower our plants in a border in the kitchen 
garden, planting them 1 foot apart each way, 
and under the treatment just described, we have 
them well in flower by the middle of August. It 
is possible that a few semi-double flowers may 
he produced amongst them, but those who want 
them will know what to do with them. Our 
purpose is to get the best variety of colours in 
single flowers, which we take care to mark as 
they come into bloom. Inferior ones are con¬ 
signed to the rubbish heap. C, C. 


10788— Winter Honeysuckle.— (Loni- 
cera fragrantissma. — This Honeysuckle is 
now crowded with blossoms, the odour of which 
quite pervades the air, especially in the case of 
plants under glass, a circumstance which proves 
how valuable it is at this dead season when there 
are not many plants in flower, and what are in 
blossom are mostly tender kinds, whereas this 
Honeysuckle is so hardy as to brave all cold and 
frosts and keep on blooming nearly the whole 
of the winter out in the open. To have it at 
its best there it requires, and deserves, the 
shelter of a wall with a southern aspect and a 
sheltered comer. If so favoured, it is surprising 
what an amount of flower may be got from it. 
Although naturally bushy, it may soon be made 
to cover quite a large space by encouraging and 
training up the leading shoots, and from these 
breastwood is formed. It is from this twiggy 
wood the blossoms come, and, therefore, in prun- 
ning, or rather in stopping and pinching during 
the summer, the object should be to have as much 
of this shrubby growth as possible, and the shorter 
and riper it is the better will it bloom. It may 
be readily propagated by means of cuttings or 
layers; the latter root freely if the branches are 
pegged down and covered with sharp, sandy soil, 
as do also cuttingsmadeeither of theripe or green 
shoots inserted in a border, under a hand-glass, 
and if some are put in now they will form nice 
little plants by next autumn.—S. D. 

10790. — Lawn weeds.— With regard to 
Daisies and Plantains on lawns, allow me to say 
that my gardener has adopted the following 
with great success, but as a matter of course the 
means adopted cause much trouble, yet I 
consider the good done amply repays him. A 
man in the first place stretches a line across the 
lawn, and then goes over the intermediate space 
with a sharp knife, cutting off the top of each 
plant until the white root shows itself; he has 
then placed in his hand a lemonade bottle with 
a wire fixed round the top to hold it by, and 
into the bottle, having previously placed in it 
some oil of vitriol or sulphuric acid, he dips a 
stout piece of wire and draws out two or three 
drops of the vitriol, which he places on the top 
of the root and kills it; it never comes up again, 
neither does it break out in any way from the 
bottom. I have tried the lawn sand, which is 
very effective, but it leaves a large bare patch of 
earth which takes some months to recover itself. 
The operation should be performed in the early 
spring when the ground is hard and dry.— 
H. J. B. 


10770.—Huyahe’s Prince Consort Pear 
has proved itself to be so good in every 
way here for several seasons, that I consider it 
worthy of a place in the front rank with our 
best varieties. It is comparatively new, and for 
that reason not so well known or extensively 
planted as it deserves to be. The tree which we 
have of it is growing against a south wall; it 
bears well, so much so, that the crop has to be 
generally thinned—a good fault. It is not a 
very handsome Bear, as when ripe it has a green 
skin and is brown and russetty on the side 
exposed to the sun. It resembles a well-grown 
fruit of Beurre Ranee, and is quite equal to a 
Winter Nelis or a DoyennG du Cornice in flavour. 
It comes into use about the same time as the 
last named sort, viz., November. Those who are 
dubious about planting new kinds of Pear trees 
may safely add this variety to their collections. 
—'W. A. G. 

10799.— Lillum auratum.— In reply to 
the query of “ W. H.” respecting the above, the 
description given by him of the L. auratum 
which he has lately repotted is what he may 
generally expect to find an imported bulb to be 
like after the first season’s blooming. No doubt 
the bulb in question was an imported one. 
Imported bulbs are so long out of the soil or 
ground on the way to this country from abroad, 
that the outside scales go brown and shrivel up, 
although the inner parts of the bulbs keep good. 
Therefore, when they are potted the outside 
scales do not recover, but rot away, leaving the 
bulbs smaller than when first potted. The bulb 
is almost sure to bloom next season. If it was 
watered with weak liquid manure when growing 
to keep up its strength, it ought to have four 
blooms on next season, the bulb increasing in 
size also until it sends up two or three stems. 
Each stem will then form separate bulbs and 
also grow in size. The bulb having no root at 
its base when it was repotted, denotes that it is 
having a rest preparatory to sending out fresh 
roots (which it will do shortly) for next season's 
growth. If the bulb had not been repotted 
until the stem had died down, all the top roots 
would have come away with it on repotting. I 
should recommend “ W. H." to refer to 
Gabdkninu Illustrated of October 20, 1883, 
page 368, for full particulars of “ How to Grow 
Lilies in Pots.”—P. Rainford, Wigan. 

10769.— Caps Gooseberries. — I have 
grown these many years successfully. I sow the 
seeds in heat, and transplant, when about 2 inches 
high, four or six together in a large pot. Give 
plenty of water, and expose to the sun; they 
will grow quickly, flower and fruit abundantly. 
I have now in my greenhouse a plant in full 
bloom and covered with fruit. It is planted in 
a border consisting chiefly of loam, road sand, 
and manure. It is more than two years old, 
is about 8 feet high, and forms a large bush. I 
have gathered quantities of fruit from it, and it 
is full of fruit and blossom all the year round. 
I have grown it easily as an annual in sandy 
soil under a south wall. It is as easily grown as 
a Turnip. It will grow and fruit well in a south 
window, provided there is no gas in the room.— 
C. B. 

10806.— VInoe not breaking well.— One 
great point in getting Vines to break regular 
and fruit well is to get the wood well ripened. 
If sun heat is deficient in autumn, they are the 
better of some fire heat to ripen the wood, 
giving plenty of air at the same time. You may 
lay the canes in a horizontal position as soon as 
they are pruned and cleaned, and tie them up 
when the young growths are about 2 inches long. 
Your Grapes must have turned mouldy through 
a damp atmosphere. Put on a fire occasionally, 
giving air at the same time, and keep the house 
dry.—J. Robertson. 

-The cause of your Vines breaking badly 

may pro bably be traced to too high a temperature 
at starting. I do not bend down the rods of es¬ 
tablished Vines, but so soon as they are pruned 
and dressed, tie them up in their places, and in 
the case of early started Vines, I maintain a 
regular temperature, so far as fire heat is con¬ 
cerned, of 56° by day and night until every bud 
has burst, after which I gradually bring the day 
temperature up to 66°, but always aim to allow 
the night temperature to fall towards morning to 
about 55° until the flowering commences, and my 
Vines break evenly all over the house, Examine 
the border and sea that they do not suffer for 


508 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Jan. 5, 1884, 


want of water. If your Grapes were well 
ripened, and you kept a little air passing 
through the house with a slight warmth in the 
hot-water pipes, your Grapes ought not to have 
decayed. Never keep the house closed in damp 
weather, as is often advised, but keep a 
slight opening in the ventilators, both top 
and bottom, with a nice warmth in the 
hot-water pipes. My Grapes usually shrivel 
up before they decay. This year (1883) on the 
10th of May, I cut for my employer’s table per¬ 
fectly finished examples of Black Hamburgh 
Grapes, and on the same date took in from the 
fruit room Grapes of Lady Downe looking fresh 
and plump.—W. Harris, BamstavU. 

10788.—Show and fancy Pansies — 
The difference between show and fancy Pansies 
is as follows:—The show has a small blotch, 
the fancy a large one—the larger the better. I 
wrote a paper on the Pansy, which 44 J. W.” will 
see if he procures Gardening Illustrated 
far May 6th of the present year. It contains 
full-sized illustrations of a show and also fancy 
Pansy, which show at a glance the difference 
between the two. It also contains the cultiva¬ 
tion, propagation, and points of the Pansy, and 
it is absolutely necessary that every Pansy 
fancier should know the latter, or he cannot tell 
which are good or inferior kinds. — Geo. 
Henderson, Halam Lane, Southwell. 

10797.—Cropping for profit.—If I was 
in 14 Poor Clerk’s ” position, I should be inclined 
to gradually supplant the Potatoes with Straw¬ 
berries, of which I think the following sorts, 
which do well on a gravelly soil, might be 
worth a trial, and need not cost more than three 
or four shillings for a beginning, viz., Vicomtesse 
Hericart de Thury, Marshal Mac Mahon (see 
Gardening, August 4, 1883), and perhaps 
Oxonian, sometimes called Myatt’s “ Eleanor.” 
If successful, the profit would be greater than 
that on Potatoes, the labour less, and the occu¬ 
pation more agreeable.— Amateur. 

10812 .—Planting Vines.—If it is intended 
to grow plants in the greenhouse underneath 
the Vines, one planted every 6 feet will be suffi¬ 
cient. If exclusively for Vines, and planted at 
6 feet apart, you could take two canes up from 
every plant, make 3 feet between the canes. 
But by far the better way is to plaut 3 feet 
apart, and only taking the one rod from each 
root; the latter plan will produce the best 
results. Four easily-managed sorts are Black 
Alicante, Black Hamburgh, Buckland Sweet¬ 
water, and Royal Muscadine.—J. Robertson. 

-Plant the Vines 3 feet apart, and take 

up one rod from each, or 6 feet apart, and take 
up two rods from each, and read GARDENING 
from week to week for advice. I would not ad¬ 
vise you to plant many kinds, but a few good 
ones that are sure to do well, such as Black 
Hamburgh, Foster’s Seedling, and for keeping 
on well into the winter, Black Alicante.—W. 
Harris, Barnstaple. 

10810 .— Small bulbs of L. auratum.— 
In reply to the above query, I should recommend 
« W. H." to pot the small bulbs of L. auratum 
in, say, a 6-inch or 7-inch pot well drained, con¬ 
taining light rich sandy soil, placing the bulbs 
about 1 inch under the surface of the compost, 
and place in the greenhouse or a frame pro¬ 
tected from frost. Probably they will not 
bloom next season, but most probably some of 
them will do so the season following. Surround 
them in silver sand.—P. Kainford, Wigan. 

10313 .—Moving fruit trees.— You will be perfectly 
safe to move the fruit trees again, at once If the weather 
s open, but use the utmost care in doing so, and mulch 
he surface with manure after planting.—J. Robertson. 

Styptic.— John Wylie.— At any good seed shop. 

A Constant Reader.— You will probably get the 
Spineas from Messrs. Veitch and Sons, Royal Exotic Nur¬ 
sery, Chelsea 

Names of plants.—A. B. C. - l,Maranta zebrina ; 

2, Euphorbia splendens; 3, Maranta Maasangeana; 4, 

Cannot name without flowers.- R. If. —1, DayalLla 

Mooreana; 2, Gleichenia raicrophylla.— Omega.— Chry¬ 
santhemum frute3cens ;from seed or cuttings.- r. J. O'. 

—Pandanus utilis. 

QUERIES. 

10861.—Tuberoses decaying.—Will some grower of 
Tuberoses tell me the cause of my bulbs failing to throw 
up blooming Btalks? I planted some four dozen last win¬ 
ter, and placed them in a cold frame until they had pro¬ 
duced their leaves. I then removed them to a house 
moderately heated, fixvf grew well, but] with a few ex 


ceptions there was no bloom. On turBing them out of the 
pots last week, I fiud that all the bulbs, including those 
that bloomed, are decayed, but there are three or four 
offsets to each decayed bulb remaining, but too small 
to hope for bloom next year. I procured the bulbs from 
Van Houtte ; they were very fine and large. The Narcissi 
rots off In the same way. Is it the nature of these plants 
to do so?—O mega. 

10852.—Seeds for Australia.—I want to send a 
collection of seeds to Australia, and in addition to the 
length of the voyage, as the seasons are opposite, the 
seeds might be twelve, eighteen, or twenty-four months 
before being sown. In Gardening of the 22nd insfc., 
page 483, the plan of putting seeds into dry bottles is 
recommended. Would seeds wrapped in tinfoil, ani 
then all the small parcels placed In a glass jar or bottle, 
and well corked, answer equally well ? Seeds in tin-foil 
wrapper would pack much better than a number of small 
bottles, and of course would not be liable to breakage.— 
W. G. C. 

10853.—Culture of the Teazle.—Will someone 
kindly give me the following particulars on the cultiva¬ 
tion of the TeazleAre they still used by cloth 
manufact n rers ? What aril is most suitable for them, and 
does it require any special preparation ? When and how 
is the seed sown, and what quantity per acre ? How is it 
known when the heads are ready to cut ? How many 
times a year are they gathered? How packed ? Are the 
plants annuals? What is the average produce per acre? 
What is about the usual price now per peck ? Any other 
information respecting them will be esteemed by 
G. W. 1). 

10854.— Portable greenhouse.— I am building a 
small greenhouse 10 feet by 6 feet, and being a quarterly 
tenant, I wish to build it so that I can remove it if re¬ 
quired. It will be built of wood and glass, will not be 
fixed to any wall or fence, but will simply rest on about 
six posts sunk into the ground, and fixed with cement, as 
also will be the bottom board all round. Will any of your 
readers kindly tell me if I can remove it without any 
interference on the part of the landlord ; if not, a few 
hints as to how I should build it so that it can be legally 
removed, will very much oblige.—W. B. T. H. 

10855.—Building greenhouses.—Probably many 
of your readers, like myself, contemplate adding to their 
glasshouse accommodation early in the coming season. 
Being a fair mechanic, thongh an amateur, I intend doing 
the work myself, as I could not afford to pay the prices 
charged by builders. In view of this coming work, 1 
have turned my thoughts towards glazing without putty, 
which is so much recommended by some, and I would 
invite the details of their experience in this matter from 
the readers of Gardening, by whom l believe much 
useful information and advice could be given on this 
interesting point.— An Irish Subscriber. 

10S56.—Carnation grubs.—La3t summer I planted 
some Carnations in the open ground; they did well for 
some time, but lately seem decaying. Thinking that the 
damp might be the cause, I took them up, potted them, 
and then discovered that all the plants were infested by 
a kind of yellowish grub, which had deposited their eggs 
right inside the stem, so that the leaves came off. Can 
any reader inform me of the cause of this pest and how 
to prevent it ?— Constant Subscriber. 

10857.—Copings for walls.—I am about to repair a 
garden wall, and want to put on a coping to protect the 
trees from frost. What sort of coping is best, glass or 
wood, that can be removed ? If glass, how should it be 
fixed, and how far project from the wall ? Should there 
be a projection from wall of stone or cement before 
fixing glass, and if so, how far? Is there any fear of the 
drip from coping injuring the roots of the tree ? Perhaps 
some one would kindly give me advice ?— Leo. Sinclair. ‘ 

10858.—Vegetables and Celery. —Will some prac¬ 
tical gardener kindly oblige me (through Gardening) 
with the names of about four of the best Peas I can have 
to supply an hotel through next summer, also two or 
three of the beBt sorts of Celery? What I grew this year 
was very pithy, although reported to be a 44 Bolid celery.” 
I used fowl manure to grow it in.—G. F. T. 

10869.—Marechal Niel Rose not flowering. 
Can any reader account for my Marshal Niel Rose not 
flowering ? It is planted in a pot in a cool greenhouse in 
good soil, and receives every attention, but during the 
three years that I have had it, has produced nothing but 
leaves, though it is a fine healthy plant.— Constant 
Subscriber. 

10860 .—Greenhouse floors—I should be glad for 
a little information about my greenhouse floor. It is all 
cemented and heated with hot-water pipes. I wish to 
grow Sfcephanotis, Clerodendrons, Bougainvilleas, and 
a few other stove plants, and I find that the floor gets 
too dry, and I think it wiU not answer in summer. Size 
of house 16 feei by 8 feet.— Amateur. 

10861.—Fly on Carnations —My collection of Car¬ 
nations in pots (grown outdoors) having been much in¬ 
fested with green fly last year about two months previous 
to blooming, I Bhould be glad if someone would kindly 
state how 1 can prevent a recurrence of the same.— 
Romeo. 

10862 .—Grubs in soil.—Will someone kindly state 
the beat way to destroy (without detriment to the soil) 
leather-coated grubs which have established themselves 
in some turfy loam I procured last spring, and which I 
want to use lor potting Carnations, <ftc.—F ire Eater. 

10863.—Roses in greenhouses.—Will any reader 
kindly say what distance from the glass a Mardchal Niel 
Rose would thrive ? I am anxious to train one to the 
roof of my lean-to greenhouse. Any Information on the 
subject would oblige.—F. S. 

10864.— Vegetables for exhibition —Will some 
reader kindly inform me which are the best five 
varieties of vegetables for exhibition ? Is Celery a vege 
table, as 1 have known it to be disqualified?— Amateur. 


10867.—Tuberoses. —I would like to know how to 
cultivate Tuberoses. Do they require much heat all 
through the process of growing, and what soil is beat?- 
Louisa. 

1036S.— Walnut trees bleeding.— Will anyone 
kindly tell me what ought to be done with a Walnut tree 
which has fissures in the bark from which the asp oozes, 
out ?—Cum BRIAN. 

169.— Ferns for cold greenhous e,—win sonur- 
one kindly give me the names of a lew Ferns (evergreeo) 
British and hardy exotic, suitable for a small cold green¬ 
house ?—A. C. T. 

10870.—Moving Box.— Can this be moved and re¬ 
planted during the winter months ? Can lime be dog 
into a garden containing fruit trees with advantage? If. 
so, in what quantity per acre ?— JUNiua 

10871.—Propagating Daphnes.—Will some reader 
kindly tell me when and how to propagate Daphne 
elegantisslma and Eurya latifolia variegata ?— Daphne. 


CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 

Thomas Kennedy and Co., Dumfries—Forest, Fruit, and 
Ornamental Trees. 

N. Davis, Lilford Road Nurseries, Camberwell, London, 
8. E.—Choice New and Old Chrysanthemums. 

Dickson and Co., 1. Waterloo Place, Edinburgh—Forest 
Trees, Coniferie, &c. 

W. E. Boyce, Yerbury Road, Holloway, London, N.— 
Early-flowering and other Chrysanthemums. 

Hogg and Wood, Coldstream and Dans, N.B.—General 
N ursery Stock. 

W. Beachey, Fluder, Kingskerswell, Devonshire. 
Roses, Violets, Strawberries. 

M. Saunders and Sons, Friars Walk Nurseries, Cork 
Roses, Coniferie, Fruit Trees, Greenhouse and Stow 
Plants, <fcc. 

Carter and Co., High Holborn, London—Vade Mecum 
for 1884. 

W. B. Smale, Fleet Street, Torquay—Vegetables and 
Flower Seeds. 

Sutton and Sons, Royal Berks Seed Establishment, 
Reading—Special List of Novelties in Vegetables, 
Flowers, and Potatoes. 

Waite, Nash, Huggins and Co., 79, Southwark Street 
London, S.E.—W holesale Price Current of Seeds, <fcc. 


, They grew well, but! with 

CjtK glC 


10865.—Fastening Climbers on walls.—I Bhould 
be glad of some advice as to the best ana cheapest way 
of fastening up ClimbiDg Roses and other plants against 
a cemented wall—my house front?—D. 

10866.— Clay soli.— I should be much obliged to 
know if clay is a good thing to mix with a poor, sandy 
soil, and will Rosea thrive in it? —AMATEUR. 


POULTRY. 


Black Hamburghs .—Lincolnshire Fen, 
—These fowls, although excellent layers 
generally, cannot be called winter layers, and 
are not to be compared in this respect to their 
more robust cousins, the Brahmas or Cochins, 
But bear in mind, taking all the year round, the 
Hamburgh will lay a good many more eggs than 
either of these breeds. Therefore, it is expedient, 
if yon hare the room, to keep a few of both 
kinds, so that yon may depend on eggs at all 
seasons. Tou cannot, however, expect many 
eggs in winter, except from pullets of the same 
year, hatched early and well matured by good 
feeding and housing. We consider the Brahma 
to be the best of all for winter laying. The hen 
that layed one egg only is probably an old bird, 
and it is not unusual for such to do this at this 
time of year, and she will probably not lay again 
until spring. We cannot say what causes her to 
get so frequently to the nest, and unless she 
shows signs of being distressed by egg-binding, 
we do not think yon need be alarmed. Your 
feeding is good, only you will find an occasional 
change beneficial, and do not give too mnch of 
maize. Scotch Greys are a very nsefnl kind of 
fowl, and very hardy. They are fair layers, as 
well as good sitters and table fowl. They are 
seldom met with except in Scotland, where they 
are highly prized. They resemble Cuckoo 
Dorkings in appearance, the plumage being 
dappled grey on a lighter grey ground. They 
are of fair size, and no doubt, with a little care¬ 
ful breeding, would become a moat useful all¬ 
round fowl. They would most probably be 
better winter layers than the Black Hamburghs, 
and as you state your run is cold and exposed, 
we should recommend you to give them a trial. 
Erect a shed of some sort to act as a shelter 
from wind and wet in the daytime. No poultry 
run is complete without something of the sort, 
however roughly put up. It also acts as a 
shelter from fierce sun in summer time, which is 
very objectionable to fowls. You mention a 
cross between Minorca and Cochin. We cannot 
say that we ever had any practical experience 
with this cross, bnt should imagine it would pro¬ 
duce very useful birds. The best way would be 
to run a Minorca cook with Cochin hens.— 
Andalusian. 

Minorca and Lantfshan —If any reader ha. tried 
the above cross, I should be glad to know the result, « 
to the appearance and laying qualities of the birds.— 
F. H. _ 

Asparagus Kale —I would feel obliged for inform"- 
tton os to tho cooking of Asparagus Kale. Is It pr-p'-’’ 
to strip off the green and cook the stalka, and is thin the 
season for it ?—As A pi irzT'R. 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. V. JANUARY 12, 1884. No. 253. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


SELECT HARDY PERENNIALS. 

One of the chief reasons why gardening ha3 60 
large a number of devoted followers is doubtless 
its great variety of work, or, if one may so express 
it, manysidedness, not to mention the changes 
anent the varying phases and fashions that in a 
greater or lesser degree take place every year. At 
present Orchids and Chrysanthemums are all the 
rage: last year it was Sunflowers, single Dahlias, 
and Marguerites ; previous to that it was carpet 
bedding; and prior to that succulents, sub- 
tropicals, and Pelargonium, Calceolaria, and 
A'erbena bedding, all the various branches having 
numbers of devoted admirers; and this is as it 
should be so long as space for the expansion of 
gardening ability remains (as it always will) an 
nnlimited quantity. Certainly as regards the 
branch of gardening that forms the subject of 
this paper we seem to be going at express speed, 
for on every hand one hears enquiries for hardy 
flowers, and more particularly for single flowers, 
such as the Japanese Anemones, Rudbeckias, 
Geums, Poppies, Hellebores, Irises, and Lilies. 
This single flower mania is but a passing nod to 
fashion, for every 8pecie3 that helps to make a 
garden cheerful for the longest period will be 
equally highly prized a year or two hence, and 
all who do not wish to be left in the rear in this 
matter would do well to set about making a 
selection (not collection) forthwith. 

Best kinds. —Taking into account length of 
flowering season and showiness or effectiveness, 
the following are the best of the kinds grown by 
us, viz.. Acanthus latifolius, Anemone alpina, 
A. japonica and its white variety, Aquilegia 
chrysantha, A. coerulea, Aubrietia purpurea, 
A. purpurea variegata, Bocconia cordata, Caltha 
palustris fl.-ph, Campanula glomerata alba, 
C. rotundifolia pallida, C. turbinata floribunda, 
Cypripedium spectabile, Delphinium nudicaule, 
Dodecatheon Meadia, Funkia marginata, F. Sie- 
boldiana, F. grandiflora, F. argentea vittata, 
Gentiana acaulis, G. verna, Geum coccineum 
lL-pl.,Geum pyrenaicum, Helianthemums, several 
kinds; Iberis cori folia, and other kinds ; Linura 
luteum, and other sorts ; Lithospermum pro¬ 
stratum. Lychnis chalcedonica fl.-pl., Melianthus 
major, fEnotberamacrocarpa, G^. Youngi, Pieonia 
anemonaiflora, several kinds ; Papaver (Poppy), 
scarlet, yellow, and white kinds; Pentstemons, 
several sorts ; Phlox Nelsoni, P. ovata, Polygo- 
natum multiflornm, P. verticillatum, Potentillas, 
several kinds; Primula cortusoides amcena and 
its white variety, P. denticulata, P. farinosa, 
P. japonica, P. sikkimensis, Pyrethrum nligin- 
osnm, Salvia azures, Saponaria ocymoides, 
Schizostylis coccinea, Silene acaulis, Silene 
alpestris, Spiraea Aruncus, S. japonica variegata, 
S. Filipendula fl.-pl., S. palmata, Thalictrum 
anemonoideSjTritomaUvaria, Veronica prostrata, 
V. pulcbella, and V. rupestris. This list is longer 
than I intended it should be, but there being so 
many good species and varieties, it is diflicult to 
know where to stop or to draw the line. 

As TO CULTIVATION, all the kinds which I 
have enumerated are by no means fastidious, 
but they will fully appreciate moderately deep 
loam and a liberal allowance of well-decayed 
manure, which may be the more readily afforded 
when it is ’ said that if well done at first 
planting, but little further iu the way of culti¬ 
vation will be needed for at least a couple and 
perhaps three years. With regard to arrange¬ 
ment in beds and borders, this, to some extent, 
must be determined by space at command and 
the taste of the planter, for whilst some prefer 
the plants in groups or masses, others incline to 
the single plant and straight line form of 
arrangement, and for a long border having 
formal surroundings, such as statuary, vases, 
clipped shrubs, and the like, this latter plan 
would be strictly in character, and perhaps the 
best, bat even under such circumstances I should 
think twice before adopting the plan once. For 
my own part I certainly prefer 

The gboupinu ahbanokment, and in 
numbers proportionate to the growth and spread 
of the plants; and though I would not adhere 
too severely to the rule of gxquping them in lines 

Digitized by GOOgle 


as regards height.— that is, to begin at the front 
with the lowest, and gradually rise to the back 
of the border—I would take care that there was 
no undue prominence in the front lines by ex¬ 
cluding all that attain a greater height than 21 
feet or 3 feet, whilst, on the other hand, in the 
back lines with the tall growers, I would have 
groups of all except the very lowest. Another 
thing to be studied should be an even or regular 
display of flowers at the same season throughout 
the entire border; groups in duplicate are, there¬ 
fore, a necessity, but the repetition should be at 
as rare intervals as possible. With a view to a 
cheerful winter aspect, the same rule that 
applies to to the .regular distribution of flowers 
over the entire border should be put in practice 
us regards the distribution of evergreen kinds; 
indeed, there is no reason why a few choice ever¬ 
green shrubs should not be used with special 
reference to winter effect, and this would be 
very much enhanced by the farther addition of 
plots of the mossy Sedums and Saxifrages 
planted over Lily and other bulbous clumps.— 
W. W. H. 


RAISING FINE LEAVED PLANTS FROM 
SEED. 

WHEBE sub-tropical gardening is carried out, it 
is a great advantage to utilise as far as possible 
plants that can be readily raised from seed, for 
although many beautiful plants used for such 
purposes are of a permanent character, and 
others are increased by cuttings, there yet 
remains a large class that can easily be increased 
by means of seeds. Sow in heat in J anuary, so 
as to allow time to get np really fine plants by 
the end of May, as if deferred until March there 
is not sufficient time to get them properly estab¬ 
lished in good sized pots, and above all gradually 
hardened off in cool houses preparatory to plant¬ 
ing in the open air. Carefully prepared plants 
soon grow on and form effective beds of groups, 
while late sown ones hurried up to the required 
size languish or make but little progress until 
the summer is too far advanced for them to have 
much effect. I would, therefore, advise im¬ 
mediate sowing of the following valuable aids, 
not only to those who have a good stock of Palms, 
New Zealand Flaxes, Tree Ferns, Sec., to form 
their most striking effects, but also in the case 
of those whose limited amount of glass struc¬ 
tures render it impossible for them to winter 
many of the most suitable plants under glass, 
and who must of necessity rely on plants that 
can be increased by means of seeds. After trying 
most of the varieties iu cultivation, I can strongly 
recommend the following as sure to give satis¬ 
faction :— 

Acacia lophantha. —Seeds of this if sown 
at once in pots or pans of light soil and placed 
in a temperature of from C0° to 70° will germi¬ 
nate quickly; pot the young plants off singly in 
3-inch pots, and after they are well rooted trans¬ 
fer them to G-inch pots, keeping them on shelves 
near the glass, to insure a sturdy, well developed 
habit of growth; thus treated, they will be 
graceful, thrifty plants by the 1st of May, when 
they should be placed in cool quarters, such as 
pits that have been cleared of hardier plants, and 
if exposed as much as possible to sun and air on 
all favourable occasions, will, by the end of the 
month, be fit to take their place in the flower 
garden, where, if planted thinly so that each 
plant stands out singly on a groundwork of 
dwarf carpeting plants, they will hold their own 
in point of effect with many far more costly sub¬ 
jects. 

Acanthus latifolius and A. mollis are in¬ 
dispensable in what are called foliaged gardens, 
and, if treated as above described, make excel¬ 
lent material for purposes of decoration, and 
not the least of their many good qualities is the 
fact that they may be lifted and potted when 
the beauty of the summer garden begins to 
wane, and will be fonnd equally useful for 
indoor decoration in winter, their deep green 
and elegantly formed leaves having a fine effect 
in large vases under artificial light. 

Beet—C hilian or Brazilian—forms a very 
effective edging plant for large beds, the midribs 
of the leaves being brilliantly coloured in many 


various shades, from creamy white to crimson. 
If the seed is sown in pans or boxes in heat, 
and gradually hardened off in a cool house or 
frame, the young plants may be planted out in 
April so as to get well advanced in growth 
before subjects of a more tender character can 
be safely trusted out of doors. In their earlier 
stages of growth they are not very effective, 
but as they attain full dimensions of leaf 
growth, the midribs assume very beautiful 
shades of colour, and as edgings to plants of 
stately habit of growth they are very valuable. 

Cannas in great variety are readily increased 
by seed, called Indian Shot, from the fact of its 
being round like large shot and very hard. If 
kept for any length of time, so as to become 
very dry, it takes a long time to germinate. I 
find soaking it for a couple of days before sow¬ 
ing a great help, or if the hard skin is slightly 
cut with a sharp file it has the same effect; 
otherwise the seeds, although perfectly sound, 
may lie dormant for months. If the young 
plants are potted off singly and grown on in a 
stove temperature, gradually inuring them to 
open air treatment in May, good sized plants 
may be had the first season, but they will not 
attain the dimensions of those from older roots. 
It is, therefore, advisable to either lift and 
preserve the roots, or protect them by external 
coverings in the open ground. 

Centaukeab, such as candidissima, dementi, 
and gymnocarpa, with their beautiful silvery 
foliage, ate readily increased by seed. If sown 
in January they make good edging plants by 
May, and, being of a half-hardy character, may 
be planted early. They form most effective 
contrasts with Coleus or Amarantus melan- 
cholicus. Chammpuce Cassations® and C. dia- 
cantha are very beautiful Thistle-like plants 
with spiny foliage. If treated like the preceding 
as regards sowing and general routine of culture 
they will be found most effective as central or 
dot plants in carpet beds, or as edgings to fine 
foliage plants of a more robust habit of growth. 
Cineraria maritima is another excellent silvery- 
leaved plant which requires the same treatment 
as the Cen'taureas. 

Echevebia metallica and E. m. glauca, so 
useful for edgings, are .readily increased from 
seed. Care in sowing is required, the seeds being 
very minute. The best plan is to press the soil 
very firm, and cover it slightly with silver sand ; 
then spread the seeds evenly on it, water with a 
very fine rose, and cover the mouth of the pots 
or pans with a sheet of glass to prevent too rapid 
evaporation until the seeds germinate, when air 
must be given. 

Eucalyptus globulus. —The blue Gum 
Tree is very effective as a fine-foliaged plant, 
the bluish grey tint being quite unique. It is a 
plant of very rapid growth; seeds of it sown in 
J anuary will produce good plants by the end of 
May. The young plants naturally run up tall 
and erect, and are, therefore, well suited for 
planting at wide intervals in large beds with an 
undergrowth of plants of more spreading habits. 

Melianthus majob has handsome leaves of 
silvery hue, and produces a good effect either as 
single specimens in a large state or as an under 
growth to tall plants in a young state. If sown 
early good plants of it for the latter purpose will 
be produced by the end of May, and if planted 
in pots the work of lifting them in autumn will 
be more safely performed. Ferula communis 
and F. gigantea produce very elegant deep green 
foliage, and if Bown at once and treated as above 
make very handsome plants. These are very 
difficult plants to propagate otherwise than by 
seeds. 

Castoh-Oils treated as annuals are amongst 
the finest plants that can be grown. The seed 
is large, like Beans, and should be sown in 
pots in light, sandy soil in a brisk heat. As soon 
as large enough to handle the young plants 
should be potted off singly into 3-inch pots, from 
which they mav be transferred to 5-inch ones in 
March, and to 8-inch ones in April, so as to have 
large plants by the end of May. If planted in 
rich deep soil they will attain a height of from 
10 feet to 12 feet in one season, with leaves 
measuring nearly a yard across. There are 









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Google 


Original from 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Jan. 12, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


511 


their houses. A true picture is a tout ensemble of 
colours and form proportionately grouped, 
mounted and framed ia the same key j artists 
designing to work on a large scale suit their 
canvas to the subject, but it is not so with the 
occupier of a small garden; he perforce must 
suit the size and selection of his plants to his 
space. The bulk of his garden is often con¬ 
demned beforehand to Grass, probably in the 
form of a lawn tennis or croquet-ground, with 
only a margin round about it available for gar¬ 
dening, and this he often devotes to a row of 
leggy standard Roses alternated with the sub¬ 
jects above mentioned,which are all very beauti¬ 
ful in their way, but out of place in small gar¬ 
dens. I do not care how small may be the 
garden, it can be made truly beautiful and ad¬ 
mirable if people will only discard rectangular 
or geometrical walks and flower beds, turn out 
the Grass, and finally import stones well and 
naturally placed, using a scale of plants of much 
lower habit of growth than those generally 
used. To anyone commencing to cultivate 
a small plot of ground I would say, dig up the 
sods and lay them face downwards in sundry 
heaps in order to form a basis for an un¬ 
dulating surface, so arranged that the very 
narrow walks may wind round such hillocks— 
narrow walks, irregular in outline, and margined 
with as old and weatherworn stones as can be 
found. These stones should be partly buried, 
and should make the pathway vary in outline 
throughout all its crooked and unsymmetrical 
windings ; the largest pieces may be placed on 
the sides of the undulations, the soil dug from 
the miniature valleys being thrown on the sods, 
allowing the stones to appear through, just as 
in railway making'the earth taken from the 
cuttings is used in forming the embankments. 
Shale, broken stones, and ashes may be mixed 
and fitted into the walks in order to secure 
drainage and hinder the growth of weeds. When 
all this is done, the general appearance should 
roughly resemble a model giving a bird’s eye 
view of a picturesque part of the country, the 
walks doing duty for winding lanes devoid of 
walls and hedges, the varying level of the gar¬ 
den representing hills and valleys, and the 
stones denuded rocks and boulders. To com¬ 
plete tbe picture, we will not stultify nature 
herself by planting dwarfed and starved trees 
and flowering plants, but only such as are of a 
low creeping habit or do not grow to an incon¬ 
venient height. Instead of trees we will use 
Retinosporas, such as R. filifera and the varieties 
of R. plumosa, Juniperus Sabina, varieties of 
Thujaorientalis, Thujopsis borealis anddolabrata, 
Skimmia japonica, Daphne ericoides and Meze- 
reum, Osmanthus ilici folios, Griselinia littoral is, 
Gold and Silver Box, and a few of the smaller 
growing varieties of Cnpressu3 Lawsoniana 
These may be planted tastefully on the miniature 
slopes, so as to obtain shelter from the strong 
wind quarter, and in their turn to give shade 
and shelter to such as need it amongst Ranun¬ 
culuses, Lilies of the Valley, Gentiana verna 
and acaulis, British Orchids, Pansies, Anemones, 
Snowdrops, Pinks, Crocases, Hellebores, Narcissi, 
dwarf Campanulas, Scillas, Dog’s-tooth Violets, 
Veronicas, Lobelias, Aubrietias, Arabia, Men- 
ziesias, Sibthorpias, and an innumerable host of 
other " good things.” 

Sedums may be planted amongst the stones 
along the margins of the walks, and Saxifrages, 
such as pyramidalis, nepaulense,Aizoon, Wallace!, 
pectiniata, oppositifolia, autumnalis, cerato- 
phylla, intacta, longifolia,Tazetta,hibernica, pul- 
chella, hypnoides, and atropurpurea, may be 
so disposed amongst the stones on the hillocks 
as to produce quite a charming effect. Semper- 
vivums may be grown in chinks and crevices of 
the stones, filled with earth. Helianthemums 
and Iberises may be so grown as to overhang 
the dwarf rocks. Ivies too might also be used 
very effectively in the same direction. For 
division walls or fences, nothing can surpass 
Ivies, Cotoneaster microphylla and C. Simonsi, 
with climbing Roses, such as Felicite Perpetue, 
or Dundee Rambler, unless the luxury of a hedge 
of H. P. or Tea Roses, be indulged in. For the 
further distances, if I may use the term, I would 
recommend the free planting of Irises and 
ornamental grasses. It may be objected that 
the relative proportions of hill and valley with 
the subjects planted are not in true natural 
keeping, which I admit to some extent, but it is 
choosing the lesser ofytwo evils, for where 
can we find a small garcfen wtohVivenUM dc&st 


idea of the plants and trees being in keeping 
with the whole. Such a scheme as I have roughly 
drafted out gives a perennial garden pleasant 
to look on at all seasons of the year, and always 
offering some item of floral beauty; it requires 
no annual forking over, no scythe nor lawn 
mower, and does not lie with bare earth exposed 
for six months out of the twelve, until the job¬ 
bing gardener appears with his boxes of bed¬ 
ding-out plants, some varieties of which can 
rarely be got to bloom at the same time as others 
intended to form a contrast or harmony of 
colour, coming in as they frequently do in 
monthly parts, and often just in time to be 
caught by “ the early frosts of winter,” existing 
afterwards only as “memories of the past.” 

A miniature perpetual garden, on the other 
hand, always gives us a present beauty along with 
that exquisite expectation known only to those 
who have planted choice bulbs and deciduous 
perennials and wait their annual reappearance. 
True it is that in a miniature garden there is a 
fair amount of stooping to be done in order to 
adequately admire one’s plants, but I have yet to 
learn that the inclination forward of attitude and 
gait acquired in the cultivation and admiration 
of the smaller members of the flower world 
may not be fittingly termed an attitude of de¬ 
votion, gained as it is, Gulliver-like, by finding 
giants of beauty where many see only pigmies. 

Leeds. R. A. H. G. 


1 0764 Lllium Thunberglanum— The 

place is suitable, taking care that the soil does 
not become quite dry, and covering a little in 
very severe weather. A 4-inch pot is, however, 
scarcely large enough for two bulbs if they are 
fair sized ones, and when the pot becomes fall 
of roots we would shift into a 6-inch one. Grow 
during the summer in a sheltered position 
screened from the Bun after midday.—J. C. B. 

10821.—Rosa rugosa.—This forms a bush in a few 
years as large ami of the same form as a large Black 
Currant bush. It will grow in any soil, and large plants 
may be transplanted as easily as small ones. It is per¬ 
fectly hardy.—J. D. E. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 


Glasshouses. 

Keep Heaths, Epacrises, kc., in the coolest and 
freest ventilated portion of the greenhouse, and 
forced shrubs and other flowers. Orchids, &c., in 
the warmest parts. Cut over Chrysanthemums 
that have done flowering, and keep a pot of each 
kind in a frame, if suflicient cuttings have not 
already been obtained. Plant the others in the 
open border, or, if not wanted ont-of-doors, 
throw them away. Re-pot herbaceous Calceo¬ 
larias and Cinerarias as they require it, and 
keep them cool and well watered Fumigate to 
destroy aphis. Keep Mignonette near the glass, 
and stake and tie it as may be necessary. Have 
a good succession of it, Violets, and other plants 
in pots. Regularly train Tropasolums, and give 
them a little manure water if they are making 
good progress. As most Ferns are now in a 
matured state, they are in the best possible con¬ 
dition for dipping in some kind of insecticide 
or fumigating to free them from tbrips and 
scale. Woodwardias and Tree Ferns are very 
subject to black thrips, and the fronds, being 
far away from the eye, often get permanently 
disfigured before the enemy is detected. These 
should be closely watched and fumigated two 
or three times, at intervals of a few days, before 
the young growths start from the crowns. In 
mixed ferneries a lower temperature than is 
frequently given to many of onr most useful 
varieties will often render them insect-proof, or 
nearly so, while the fronds when used in a cut 
state will last much longer than when forced 
and attenuated in a strong heat. Where hardy 
Ferns are grown in the cool house, many of 
them will soon start kito growth, but water 
must be sparingly given for the present, care 
being taken that the balls do not become too 
dry, as, owing to the decomposition of the com¬ 
post, the water is liable to find its way into 
crevices instead of passing through them. 

Fiower Garden. 

Those who wish for plenty of flowers for catting 
during spring and summer will do well to turn 
their immediate attention to the cnltnre, not in 
single plants, but in large groups, of such things 
as Spirtea Aruncus, 8. vennsta, and S. palmata, 
Larkspurs, doable and single Pyrethrums, white 
Lilies, and Fasonies ; also English, Spanish, and 


J apanese Irises, early Gladioli, bine and white 
Scillas, and an abundance of Solomon’s Seal 
for graceful foliage; their culture is extremely 
simple, the secret being deep trenching, good 
soil, ample space, and plenty of water in 
summer. Where stock is limited, old stools 
taken up now and divided, or placed on a gentle 
hot-bed for giving early cuttings, will enable 
the cultivator to produce strong plants for 
turning out in the spring, and when well done 
they will increase in strength and beauty for 
several years without fnrthur trouble. Mixed 
collections should now be looked over and top- 
dressed with a good layer of well-rotted manure, 
leaf-mould, or charred refuse, forking being 
deferred until the spring. Fraxinellas, Lark¬ 
spurs, and others for which slugs have a liking 
may be well dusted with soot or lime, and 
surrounded with narrow strips of perforated 
zinc. Replace old labels, and devote wet days 
to the preparation of Bticks for summer use. 
Soil for potting Carnations andjl’icotees ought 
to be prepared; good turfy, clayey loam 
answers best. Tbe decayed turf should be torn 
to pieces by the hand, carefully inspecting it 
at the same time with the view of destroying 
all the wireworms which it may contain. To 
four parts of loam add one of leaf-monld, one 
of rotten stable manure, and one of sharp sand, 
mixing all together by turning the mass over 
twice; it ought then to be stored in a dry place 
until it is required. 

If the weather is unfavourable for other work, 
stakes may be prepared for Dahlias and Holly¬ 
hocks. Those made of good deal, and painted 
green, last the longest, and look the neatest. 
The part underground and a little above it 
should be dressed with a composition of equal 
parts of tar and pitch laid on boiling hot; even 
charring the part of the stick that is to go under¬ 
ground tends to prevent decay. Pansies and 
Finks in beds will require attention during 
alternations of frost and thaw, as it is at snch 
times they get injured. Dress the surface of 
the beds with dry manure from a spent Mush¬ 
room bed, which is about the best material that 
could be used for preventing injury daring 
changeable weather. Phloxes in pets that were 
raised from cuttings and that flowered last 
autumn, should now be placed, if possible, in a 
greenhouse temperature. Growth will thus bo 
made earlier, and the cuttings can be taken off, 
perhaps a month sooner than it would be 
possible to do if the plants were protected only 
by a cold frame. It is rather too early as yet to 
repot, but that operation might, nevertheless, be 
performed now, if it be likely that the pressure 
of other work would prevent its being done a 
month or six weeks later. The potting material 
recommended for Carnations answers well for 
Phloxes. 

Fruit. 

There are sundry little operations which may 
be done now with advantage, such as labelling 
any trees requiring attention in that way, cut¬ 
ting shreds for nailing, or preparing matting for 
tying, as the case may be ; cutting and pointing 
stakes for newly-planted trees, preparing the 
necessary spring protection for wall trees, and 
repairing netting. The fruit room, too, may be 
overhauled, and all decayed Apples and Pears 
removed. Some of the latter that are specked 
are apt to become mouldy; these should lie 
wiped with a soft, dry cloth. Easter Beurro 
is very subject to this monld, and, to keep it 
sound, it requires to be thus wiped several times 
in the coarse of the winter. Josephine de Ma- 
lines, Ne Plus Mentis, and Easter lleurre are 
our best Pears at this date. New plantations of 
Raspberries may now be made on cool but well- 
drained and deeply-trenched ground, for much 
as its surface roots delight in cool shade in 
summer, a cold nndrained border is decidedly 
objectionable in winter. Where the garden lies 
high and dry the canes may be planted in blocks 
or squares, but in low cold places single rows 
answer best. When single rows get established, 
tightly strained wires feet from the ground, 
and 2 feet on each side from the centre make 
an excellent trellis for tying the canes to, making 
a double low of fruitingwoodfromasinglerowof 
stools, and at the same time allowing the young 
growths to rise np from the centre without 
crowding or interfering with the gathering of 
the fruit. Fresh plantations of Gooseberries 
and Currants may also be made when the ground 
is in a fit stale for working. Where space W 
limited and birds are troublesome, the red kinds 



512 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Jan. 12, 1884 


are very prolific and ornamental when trained 
to leaders and closely pruned as pyramids. Put 
in cuttings, choosing well-ripened growths 1 foot 
in length. Remove the eyes from two-thirds of 
the lower part, and insert firmly to that 
depth in rows 12 inches apart. 

Vegetables. 

A hotbed consisting of three parts leaves and 
one of stable litter should be made up for Pota¬ 
toes, on which place frames, and plant the Pota¬ 
toes at once in about 9 inches of light soil. Fenc’s 
Early Market (round) and the old Ashleaf Kid¬ 
ney are the best kinds for the purpose. A similar 
frame should be put in requisition for Early 
Horn Carrot, and another for Lettuces, Radish, 
and Caulillower. Asparagus should be intro¬ 
duced to the forcing pit every fortnight. The 
crowns now start readily into growth, and a 
great heat is therefore unnecessary. A bed of 
leaves only is the most desirable forcing medium, 
as stable litter taints the Asparagus, especially 
when that material is used without due prepara¬ 
tion, and the same may be said in reference 
to Rhubarb. If the crowns of these be now 
covered with Rhubarb pots, old tubs, or barrels, 
and a bed of leaves made over them, there would 
be an abundant supply till it could be had from 
the open air. Seakale is best lifted and forced 
in any dark, warm situation; a Mushroom house 
suits it well. It should be kept perfectly dark 
and not too warm, or it grows thin or weakly 
It may also be forced the same as Rhubarb in 
the open ground, but preference should be given 
to the system ef lifting it. To keep up the 
supply regularly, fresh roots should be put in fort¬ 
nightly. French lleans are always prized, and 
where there is proper accommodation for growing 
them they can be produced in abundance without 
much trouble. They should be grown in light 
houses or pits where a temperature of 60° can 
be maintained. They are best in 8-inch pots, 
which should have free drainage, and the soil 
should be light, but made firm in the pots. A 
moist atmosphere is indespensable both for the 
well-being of the plants and to keep red spider 
at bay. Sow, to keep up the demand, at interval.- 
of ten days or a fortnight. Syon House and 
Osborn are the two best kinds for pot culture : 
stick them with Birch twigs before they begin 
to flower, and never let the Beans stay on the 
plants an hour after they are tit to gather. To¬ 
matoes (autumn-sown plants or cuttings) will 
now begin to grow freely, and will require a 
warm, dry temperature of from 60° to 65° to 
set the fruit, after which they may be freely 
supplied with tepid guano water, of which if 
well drained they will take a liberal allowance. 
Pot culture and winter forcing of Tomatoes are 
not nearly so mnch practised as they ought to 
be. By many no forced vegetables are more 
valued, and from the present time onwards are 
more easily produced. Lettuces and Endive 
under protection must be kept as dry as possible, 
or they will soon decay ; Chicory and Dandelion 
help to eke out the Lettuces and Endive, and a 
few roots of these should be placed for forcing 
in tile Mushroom house every two or three 
weeks. Mustard and Cress Bhonld be sown 
wsgi riy. 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 


Propagation of Mistletoe. — Being 
naturally slow of growth and multiplication, it 
is not unlikely that the large and increasing 
drafts made on Mistletoe annually at Christmas- 
tide will, sooner or later, result in a dearth that 
will take years to rectify. The following method 
I have adopted with great, success on several 
occasions. The berry should be rubbed gently 
but firmly backwards and forwards on that part 
of the tree to which it is desired to affix the 
plant; the smoother the bark the more certainty 
of success. There is a knack in holding the 
berry in the hollow formed by bringing the first 
joints of the first and second fingers together, 
which is easily acquired with a little practice! 
otherwise the performer may have a difficulty 
in keeping it fast, from its slippery nature. The 
rubbing process should be continued till almost 
all the viscid matter is removed from the seed, 
leaving only enough to keep it firmly attached 
to the bark. If properly performed as regards 
the selection of suitable stocks, and fully ripe 
berries are employed and at the proper season, 
Buccess is almost'a certaintx-l Iri)avc never 
failed in gett.idkatl^Ls) JO of the seeds 


to germinate, the others no doubt being imper¬ 
fect seeds. No incision of the bark is necessary. 
If sown in the latter part of February or March, 
germination commences in a few weeks. The 
first indication of it is the appearance of a dark 
coloured proboscis-like radicle, which at first 
holds itself erect, but, after having attained 
sufficient length, gradually and gracefully bends 
over in the form of au arch and fixes its point on 
the bark. The point, of this radicle then swells 
out, and seems to act as a sucker in procuring 
nourishment for the embryo. If more than one 
radicle proceeds from one seed, they each repre¬ 
sent distinct embryos, and eventually become 
separate plants. Some prefer to perform the 
operation earlier than the date just named, but 
I thiDk it best to delay it till the approach of the 
natural season of growth, and this also allows 
the berries fall time to come to maturity. The 
only stock I have used is the Mountain Ash, 
always preferring the underside of a branch, as 
in that position the seeds are less liable to offer 
temptation to birds, which, I believe, are a chief 
means of failure as regards the propagation of 
Mistletoe; they are fond of the succulent 
matter which surrounds the seeds, and therefore 
this should be nibbed off as already described, 
or some sort of protection should be put over it 
when the seeds are inserted on a tree. There is 



Mistletoe on Apple tree branch. 

a long list of trees on which this parasite has 

been found, chiefly deciduous, such as Apple, 
Oak, Sycamore, Brier, Ash, Lime, Elm, Willow, 
Birch, Poplar, and Hazel, and also the Silver 
Fir. And Loudon makes mention of its being 
found in immense quantities on Finns gylvestris 
in the neighbourhood of Magdeburg. Wedge 
grafting in spring on Apples or Limes is also 
recommended by the former author as being 
sucoessful. This 1 have never tried, but intend 
doing so this spring, and hope to prove the prac¬ 
ticability of it.—J. G. 


EVERGREEN WALL SHRUBS. 

Cratacgus Pybacantha. —Few hardy ever¬ 
green plants excel the Pyracantha. It is so 
thoroughly hardy, that it will thrive in any 
position, and it is not very particular as to 
soil, but the better and deeper the latter is the 
more satisfactory does the plant grow, and its 
dark glossy foliage is always an agreeable sight, 
while its bright red berries when ripe make it 
one of the most effective of wall plants during 
the winter season. It may be raised either from 
seed or layers, but it is so inexpensive to pur¬ 
chase, that it is hardly necessary to wait for 
home-raised plants. It is grown in pots in most 
nurseries, and may, therefore, be planted at any 
time, but perhaps April and September are the 
best months in the whole year to select for plant¬ 
ing it. If received in pots it is necessary to 
thoroughly disentangle the roots befo re planting. 


and to spread them out over a bed of fine soil, 
covering them with the same material after 
planting. Be patient for a year or two; the 
plants do not make much headway the first 
year, and not over much until the third, 
but after that they ought to make vigorous 
shoots, and in a few years cover a moderately 
large space. I have known a strong plant to 
reach a height of 12 feet on a north wall, and I 
think that is about the height it can be reckoned 
to grow. Many do not succeed with the Pyra¬ 
cantha so well as they might do, because it is 
pruned with a total disregard of its requirements. 
The best time to prune it is in February, when 
the berries begin to fade ; those branches which 
have produced fruit should be cut quite ont or 
shortened back as the shape of the tree will 
best admit. Much of the old wood that has 
borne fruit should be removed to make room for 
young growth. If it be borne in mind that the 
plant flowers, and as a result bears fruit ou the 
preceding year’s growth, we have the key to the 
proper system of pruning required. It is a 
common occurrence to sec all the branches at 
the top of the tree well laden with bright red 
berries and none at the bottom, but this need 
not be so to such an extent as it commonly is 
if some of the lower branches were ent away or 
rather shortened back well to induce young 
growth, which will in dne time 
both flower and frnit, and as a 
consequence the tree will hav e 
a better appearance. To pre¬ 
serve the fruit from birds which 
frequently attack it in a most 
determined manner, as early as 
November we have to spread 
over the trees a piece of 1-inch 
fish net, which we do not find 
detracts much from the appear¬ 
ance of the fruit. 

COTQNE ASTER MICROPHYLLA. 
—For covering low wails from 
•1 feet to C feet high in any 
aspect with a dense mass of 
dark green growth there is no 
hardy plant equal to this, and 
it is sometimes very bright in 
appearance, as, for instance, 
when it is in flower in the spring 
and early in winter, when gaily 
clothed with cheerful red ber¬ 
ries. With the aid of a little 
training it adheres close to the 
wall and really gives but very 
little trouble, but if a little 
extra attention is paid to it, it 
may be so trained as to form 
any desired figure on the wall. 
I remember once seeing the 
name of a village very clearly 
shown on the wall of a cottage 
garden by means of this plant, 
the branches forming the let¬ 
ters, and those who know any¬ 
thing of .its accommodating 
character will not consider that any diffi¬ 
cult feat was accomplished, as it bears clipping 
and pruning with impunity. 

C. SiAioNst.—Although this makes a good 
climber for a wall of moderate height, I do not 
consider it equal to the preceding. It grows 
more rapidly, but does not. show such an even, 
close growth. I find that it fruits freely when 
grown as a bush in the open, but it does better 
on a wall, and its berries are acceptable, and 
have a cheerful appearance in the autumn 
months. 

Ceanothus Akubeus.— In the west of Bug- 
land and also in many parts of the south this 
fine plant passes through a severe winter un¬ 
harmed, and when it does so we have few things 
to compare with it, for it flowers freely and the 
leafage is ample. A warm south or west wall 
should be chosen for it. In a good deep soil it 
will reach a height of from 12 feet to 14 feet 
It requires rather careful pruning to induce it 
to flower regularly all over the plant. It is best 
not to prune it until March, and then to nail iu 
a fair proportion of the last year’s wood, and to 
cut out some of the old, as it ia the young wood 
of the previous year that principally produces 
the flowering shoots. It is a plant of quick 
growth, and requires rather a large space in 
which to develop its branches in a proper man¬ 
ner. 

Escallonia macrantiia. -This well-know 

evergreen »|Smite of being grown either in hue 




Jan. 12, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


513 


form or as a wall plant. It is fairly hardy in 
most parts of England, and is not very particular 
as to soil; if not wholly composed of a stiff 
cold clay it does not want any special prepara¬ 
tion made for it. On walls from 6 to 7 feet high 
its flowers look cheerful in summer and its leaves 
have always a bright green appearance. What 
pruning it needs should be done early in April. 
Thin out some of the old exhausted shoots to make 
room for young growth, and shorten back some of 
the growth that is always freely produced near 
the main stem and largest branches. 

Berberis stenophylla —In a position well 
drained and where the soil is rich and deep 
this Barbeny maxes a capital climber. It is 
perfectly hardy and flowers with great freedom 
for several weeks together during summer, when 
it is an admirable subject to out from, as its 
lovely flowers studded thickly on arching lateral 
brandies are capable of being turned to gocd 
account in the deooration of vases, &c. In the 
proper sense of the term it is not at all a creeper, 
nor do I recommend it for walls that are more 
than 8 feet high, but with moderate care it can 
be trained so as to make a beautiful object, as 
its growth is not so formal as the general run of 
creepers. As soon as it goes out of flower is the 
proper time to prune it, and then some of the 
old growth must be removed to make room for 
the young. 

Magnolia geandifloba. —This makes an im¬ 
posing wall plant. In a rich deep soil and in warm 
localities it frequently reaches a height of from 
16 to feet to 20 feet. It requires time to pro¬ 
duce a good size plant, as at first it is of slow 
growth. In all doubtful cases the soil should bo 
specially prepared for it; a hole 3 feet deep and 
! S feet wide should be dug for it, and if there is 
any choice of soil select the top spit of an old 
pasture field, regulating the depth according to 
its composition ; then let it be stacked in a heap 
for six months before using it, and as regards 
the future progress of the plant, it does not ob¬ 
ject to a bit of well rotted manure. About every 
second year we fork in over the roots one or 
two barrow-loads, and the way in which our 
plants grow show that they like it, but our plants 
are large, covering many square yards of wall, 
and reaching a height of II feet. In dealing 
with this Magnolia we find the greatest difficulty 
in keeping it against the wall. For several 
years past we have used large nails 5 inches 
long and strong tar cord; this secures the 
branches firmly. Young plants should not be 
pruned at all, and old plants do not require 
much done to them in that way. It is advisable 
sometimes to cut out a branch where too thick, 
but not otherwise. Plants of this description do 
not like much disturbance at the roots ; there¬ 
fore they should be only planted where they are 
likely to remain for some years, and in a general 
way it is better to plant young and vigorous 
plants than to renovate old ones' They are best 
planted in April, and they should receive some 
protection during severe weather the first year 
after being planted. 

Bboad-leaved Myrtle,— All along the 
south coast, as well as in the western counties, 
this Myrtle will withstand a severe winter on 
warm south walls if protected by frigi-domo 
during severe frost, and few wall plants are more 
appreciated, as old plants flower freely and their 
foliage is always in good condition. It requires a 
good deep soil and should be kept trained close to 
the wall. Here in the west we rarely protect it at 
ail, and it thrives without it. Further south I 
have known it to reach a height of 10 feet in 
warm aspects with no other protection than that 
which has been mentioned, but it was put on 
about the end of November, and allowed to re¬ 
main over the plants until the beginning of 
March. Very little care in pruning will keep this 
Myrtle clothed with foliage from top to bottom. 

BBNTITAMIA FRAGIFERA. —This plant is much 
„rdier than it is supposed to be. We have it 
■ere on a wall with an east aspect, reaching a 
sight 0 f 12 feet. It passed through the severe 
inters of 1880 and 1881 nnharmed without any 
vering, and I think a plant that will endure 26° 
frost with only the points of the leaveB injured 
not likely to suffer much if the thermometer 
■ould K° down to zero. Even last winter we 
‘ erienced 16 ° of frost, and still our plant 
1 as fresh as a common Laurel which stood 


fresh 

Ely a few yards distant. This Benthamia is 
together distinct from any AtHSr evergreen •*» 
Growth is rather stiff, and (^hey(jj a - A 


appearance about the leaves quite different from 
that of any other plant. With us it grows in a 
very luxuriant manner, and although it flowers 
in very warm summers, it has not yet matured 
any fruit. It is not at all particular as to soil, 
but no doubt it would do better on a south wall 
than in any other aspect. I shouldsay it is just 
the plant for those who have glass-covered 
verandahs or balconies, and who may want to 
cover the walls with evergreens. On the Devon¬ 
shire coast the Benthamia may be seen 
occupying positions in shrubbery borders, and in 
warm situations it fruits freely, and is then very 
effective. 

Econymus latifolius.— On warm walls and 
in districts somewhat favoured as to climate I 
believe this Euonymus will prove a very accept¬ 
able plant for walls ranging from 4 feet to 7 
feet in height. It is, in my opinion, the 
brightest of all the Spindle trees. With us as a 
bush in the open border it has grown to a height 
of 5 feet, and I have no hesitation in saying that 
in a climate equal to that in the neighbourhood 
of Taunton it will, in a good soil, reach a height 
of 12 feet. To make room for other plants, I 
quite recently had to remove from a south wall 
a plant of it that had grown to the height of 
8 feet. During the winter months this plant 
was the brightest of all our eccupants of walls, 
and I miss it immensely for cutting from, as 
during the winter it was bright and cheerful, its 
well defined and silvery variegation affording a 
capital contrast to that of the golden Eliegnus 
when placed side by side. E. radicans varie- 
gatus makes a much better wall plant than its 
first appearance indicated. With us, against a 
warm south wall, it has grown to a height of 
10 feet, but in order to induce it to grow up¬ 
wards it required to be planted thickly, and the 
soil must te rather light and of a good depth. 
On our soft sandstone walls it supports itself 
almost as well as the Ivy. J. C. C. 


Pruning shruba. —Pruning, an sometimes 
practised, has the effect to render trees and 
shrubs unnatural and inelegant, by- shearing 
them into cones, pyramids, and other unnatural 
shapes. Every tree and shrub has-a habit of 
growth peculiar to itself, and this peculiarity is 
one of its beauties. If we grune all alike into 
regular shapes, we destroy their identity. The 
pruning-knife, therefore, should be used and 
handled with judgment to lop off straggling 
branches. Shearing may be practised on hedges, 
but never on trees and shrubs. Weigelas, Deut- 
zias, Forsythias, and Mock Oranges flower on 
the wood of the preceding year's growth, and 
hence these shrubs should not be pruned in 
winter and spring, but in June after they have 
finished flowering, when the old wood should be 
shortened or out out, thus promoting the growth 
of young wood which is to bear flowers the 
following season. But Spiraeas, Lilacs, Altheeas, 
and Honeysuckles may be trimmed during the 
winter or early spring, and the branches should 
be reduced only enough to keep them in good 
shape. The old growth should be occasionally 
thinned out, and suckers and root-sprouts re¬ 
moved. The best time, however, for pruning 
all shrubs is when they have done flowering. 
The plumed Hydrangea should be severely cut 
back and thinned early in spring. In pruning 
Evergreens, use the knife occasionally to thicken 
the growth and preserve the shape. This may 
be done in April or May, just before the trees 
start to grow .—Country Gentleman. 

10809 —Treatment of Pyrus japonlca- 
—It is not customary to prune this flowering 
shrub, as the flowers are produced on wood 
made the preceding summer, and mostly on the 
terminal shoots. If pruning is done at all, it 
should be performed as soon as blooming time 
is over, as this allows of a sufficiently long sea¬ 
son for the formation of good, well-matured 
wood. If there is sufficient space for unre¬ 
stricted development, nothing is gained by 
pruning, but, in the case of low walls, the prin¬ 
cipal shoots may be ent back as soon as the 
main crop of flowers is past.—J. C. B. 

Protecting glass houses from snow- 
slip.—I cannot allow the article from *■ C. P.” in 
Gardening, Dec. 22, to remain as it is without 
giving my plan, which I think he must agree 
with me is much better than his. I pnt up a 
lean-to greenhouse against my house, which I 
may say has a slate roof, and before actually 
ATcompleted I had the iron gutter brackets 


lengthened upwards about C inches, and on 
these fastened at the top an iron bar about half¬ 
inch in diameter, and then fastened galvanized 
wire netting. It is scarcely visible ; but it is a 
curious fact that almost everyone who does see 
it asks what it is for. It had not been put up 
a week before we had a high wind, and a slate 
slipped against it, which of course must have 
damaged the greenhouse bad not the wire been 
there. We had lately a heavy fall of snow, but 
the netting effectually prevented any slipping. 
—H. W. 


HOUSE AND WINDOW QABDENING. 

FAILURES IN PLANT CULTURE. 
Everyone who has had practical experience of 
gardening in any one of its many phases is sure 
to be able to recall numerous failures, and, in so 
far as they incite us to fresh efforts, failures are 
good, but they are not pleasant or profitable in 
any other way; therefore it is just as well to 
avoid them if we can. It is an undisputed fact 
that indoor gardening presents many more diffi¬ 
culties than outdoor gardening, for the simple 
reason that it is contrary to nature. The sun 
shines and the rain falls on our borders whether 
we will it or no, and scorching dayB may follow 
each other in succession, but nightly dews re¬ 
fresh the thirsting plants and keep them alive, 
without any effort on our part, until the 
welcome showers arrive or the fresh air circulates 
briskly, and usually prevents any serious damage 
from an undue rainfall. Comparatively speaking, 
then.we reap the reward of nature’s working more 
than of our own skill. Indoors, the case is widely 
different. We have no beneficent influence to 
come to onr aid, and success depends entirely 
on our own exertions to counteract those which 
are adverse. Yet, in spite of the difficulties in 
the way, we like to decorate our rooms with 
growing plants. It is just as well, however, not 
to court failure by making mistakes at the out¬ 
set. One very fruitful source of failure lies in the 
choice of 

Unsuitable plants.— On a cold gloomy day 
in November just past, I saw a row of fine 
healthy plants of Cyperus alternifolius being 
placed in an outside window-box. Passing the 
same way a few days later, the shrivelled leaves 
and withered stems were rustling their melan¬ 
choly dirge in the east wind. This elegant 
Sedge-like grass (being allied to our own British 
Galingale, which is a rare marsh plant very 
locally found wild, but naturalized on the edge 
of ornamental water in some gardens on account 
of its graceful habit), is an aquatic, like all the 
rest of its numerous race. There are about 300 
species inhabiting all climates, as we are told by 
Sir. J. D. Hooker, but those that are cold; there¬ 
fore, we in England have but two representatives 
of the family, and those exceedingly rare. 
Imagine the unsuitability, then, of attempting to 
grow a heat-loving water plant In an outside 
window-box in London in the month of 
November. Cyperus alternifolius is, neverthe¬ 
less, a good room or window plant under certain 
conditions, being well adapted to a warm glass 
case, whence it may be temporarily removed, 
if needed, to be used with the best 
effect for dinner table decoration. During 
tlie summer, or even in a warm room in 
winter, it will last for a considerable time in 
beauty in a light window, provided the pot be 
kept standing in a saucer of water; but where 
it may be seen quite at home is in a warm 
planthouse (as, for example, the Water Lily 
house at Kew), where the pots can be placed in 
a tank. Being a plant of the easiest culture, it 
is propagated by the thousand, and any of these 
winter days in London we may see coster¬ 
mongers' barrows liberally supplied with fine 
grown specimens, evidently just taken from a 
warm glasshouse, slightly hardened off, and sent 
out as good marketable plants, which in all 
probability they are; but it is useless to buy 
them, unless they can be restored to some 
position where they can at least be accommo¬ 
dated with warmth, moisture, and light. 
The above is only one instance amongst 
many of failure arising from an unsuit¬ 
able choice of plants. In the very next 
house to that in which these unhappy Sedges 
met their fate, a row of healthy Hyacinths in 
glasses are placed j ust within the narrow window¬ 
sill. Each glass Is labelled with the name of 
the bulb, while all are evidently cared for, anti 



514 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Jan. 12, 1884. 


one passer-by, at any rate, watches them with 
exceeding interest and pleasure. Knrely in this 
case the wiBdom of nurturing these hardy bulbs 
and marking their daily progress from the first 
appearance of the thick, green cone to the 
gradual development of the sweet, many coloured 
spikes of flower is plain; but here again suita¬ 
bility is one chief element of success. Suppose 
that Tuberoses had been substituted for Hya¬ 
cinths, would there be the smallest chance of 
their blooming under the same circumstances ? 
Scores of such examples pass constantly under 
the notice of anyone interested in the matter; 
and this point of suitability cannot be too much 
studied by those who wish to grow plants succes- 
fully in their rooms. But failure sometimes arises 
even when the plants themselves are chosen with 
care ; and the reason may be generally attributed 
to one or other of the following causes: Want 
of light and air, of proper care and soil in 
potting, of cleanliness, and last, not least, of 
judgment in watering. These may be taken 
under separate heads. 

1. Want of Light and Air 

It has been proved by repeated experiments in 
a hothouse that plants will stretch out in the 
direction—not of the greatest heat, nor even of 
the most air—but of that side whence comes the 
greatest amount of light. Anything, therefore, 
that intercepts light—a muslin blind, for in¬ 
stance, which is so often to be seen placed be¬ 
tween the plants and the glass—is injurious in 
the highest degree, causing spindly growth, a 
yellowish tinge in the foliage, and the persistent 
dropping of half-formed flower-buds. We are 
all ready enongh to acknowledge in general 
terms that light and air are essential to vege¬ 
table no lr es than to animal life, yet we practi¬ 
cally denv it when we place flowers about our 
rooms it any convenient corner, considering 
only whether in this position or that they look 
well, regardless of whether they are likely there 
to thrive well. This, of course, may be done on 
occasion without much harm, but the cultiva¬ 
tor must take care to restore his plants as 
speedily as may be to light, airy quarters, or they 
will soon betray signs of suffering. So much 
is this the esse, that even with plants bought in 
flower merely for the sake of room or dinner- 
table decoration, the difference in the length of 
time during which they will remain in beauty 
will be very perceptible. It gives trouble, no 
doubt, to remove plants daily to an ante-room 
or from one window to another, where they may 
have greater benefit of the morning sun and 
light, but it is regularly done by those who care 
for plants as they ought to be cared for. 

In room gardening, the window is the natural 
place in which to bestow plants, but even here, 
since the light comes only from one side, they 
must be constantly turned, or they will grow out 
of shape. In truth, we cannot fix it in our 
minds too surely, that light is the first essential 
to the well-being of plants in general. A pro¬ 
per supply of air comes next, perhapB, in point of 
importance; and herein lies another difficulty— 
that of giving air without draught. Few human 
constitutions are proof against the chilling in¬ 
fluences of a cross current of air, and just in the 
same way, it may be taken as a rule that there 
are few plants which can bear a draught. Many 
a delicate plant, notably Maiden-hair and other 
Ferns, has been chilled to death, without the 
cause of the catastrophe being even suspected. 
Windows, then, in which growing plants are 
placed should always be opened from the top 
rather than from below. It is an excellent plan 
to set all window plants outside on still nights 
during the summer. By so doing, they reap all 
the advantage of the heavy night dews to re¬ 
fresh, while the cool air strengt hens and hardens 
them. But let us bear in mind that nothing is 
more destructive than a rough wind, which tears 
the young leaves and breaks and twists the 
tender branchesoften beyond recovery. Failures, 
again, often arise from 

2. WANT OF PROPER CAKE IN TOTTING. 

Believe it or not as we may, the careless 
crocking of the pot is one main element of 
failure. If free drainage be not provided for, 
the small body of soil contained therein must 
soon become sour and water-logged. The right 
method of doing this is so constantly repeated 
that it is needless to do more here than to insist 
once again on its importance. The compost 
used for pottiijg must be in-accordance with the 
natural ha/bit of. tim pivnU-li paat-loving species 


must not be potted in loam, nor one which grows j 
naturally on the chalk in peat—and it is gene¬ 
rally a mixture of several kinds of soil. In the 
country, ordinary garden mould will probably 
form its staple, and may be indicated by the 
general term of loam; but this differs in quality 
with each separate garden, and must be mixed 
with various enriching matters, such as leaf- 
mould or well-decayed manures, and also with a 
proportion of coarse road grit, which answers 
better than fine silver sand, especially when it 
is washed and passed through a sieve. The con¬ 
dition of the soil at the time of potting is also 
of importance, for it should be sound and sweet, 
and neither too wet nor too dry. In the country 
—especially in districts where the land is rich— 
it is a common practice for people to borrow 
their potting soil from the mole heaps in the 
fields, and very good stuff it is for the purpose 
when properly prepared. In London or else¬ 
where, if there be any difficulty in getting suit¬ 
able soil, it is better to buy it from a nursery, 
where loam, peat, leaf-mouid, and sand can all 
be obtained in small quantities at a cheap rate. 
This is surely more satisfactory than to use the 
miserable clay with which most London gardens 
are liberally supplied, and in which I lately saw 
some delicate species of British Ferns, brought 
from their native mountains, struggling against 
an unkind fate, and in all probability far on the 
way towards adding another to the long list of 
failures produced by injudicious pottiDg. 

3. Want of Cleanliness. 

The leaves of plants may, so to speak, be called 
their lungs, inasmuch as on their upper and 
more or less on their under surfaces, they possess 
certain pores through which the air passes. If 
these pores are suffered to remain closed by dust, 
or by mildew and honeydew, the plant cannot 
long continue in a healthy state. Frequent 
sponging is the best preventive in the case of 
all plants that will bear it, and can never be 
wrong with smooth hard-leaved species, such as 
Camellias or Indiarubber plants, nor, if gently 
handled, with those of bulbs and tubers, like the 
Arum, the blue African Lily, or Narcissi, but 
these are often brittle and easily torn. Sponging, 
however, does not answer with soft hairy leaves 
nor with those of thin texture. For such, the 
syringe is best, except in cases—Gloxinias for 
example, where the plant dislikes being watered 
overhead. Such plants should only be grown, 
whether in rooms or otherwise, under the shelter 
of glass. In the way of blight, greenfly and red 
spider are the window gardener's worst enemies. 
Aphides, besides being in themselves unsightly, 
soon destroy a plant by sucking out its juices 
and loading its pores with honeydew ; and 
they multiply with incredible rapidity. The 
window gardener should never be without 
a camel-hair brush and a small glass of water 
lurking in a secret corner, to remove the very 
first unwelcome intruder as soon as it appears. 
It is much less easy to guard against red spider, 
which hides at the back of the leaves, disfigur¬ 
ing and causing them to curl. For this pest, 
which is very commonly to be found on window 
plants, constant syringing of the under as well 
as the upper sides of the leaves is the best 
remedy. A wooden tub in which plants can be 
syringed and cleansed is a very necessary part 
of the indoor gardener’s furniture. In syringing, 
caution must be used not to deluge the roots 
while cleansing the leaves. Neglect of such 
daily watchfulness is the cause or many failures. 
But now we come to the difficulty of difficulties, 
and in spite of 

(4.) Want of Judgment in Watering 
being set down here as a most serious source 
of failure, yet even the expert will confess 
that no strict rules can be laid down for 
the guidance of the inexperienced. A pleasant 
sense of fulfilling an easy duty generally 
pervades the mind of the person who 
takes a watering pot in hand, and not one in 
twenty is aware that too much water is more 
dangerous, far, than too little. In point of fact, 
it is safer to put a pair of scissors into the hands 
of a novice, with leave to cut what he pleases in 
a greenhouse, than to trust him with a watering 
pot. One safe rule to follow is this: —Never to 
give water by driblets, but to wait until a 
plant begins to get rather dry, and then to give 
enough to moisten the whole ball of earth and 
roots. Water should also be gradually withheld 
from plants going to rest after flowering. A list 
of such rules might easily be made, but they 


would not fit the requirements of all plants 
under all circumstances, nor, indeed, of the Kune 
plant under different circumstances, and might 
mislead instead of being a help. Perhaps the 
best advice that can be given on this point may 
be thus summed up. That the gardener should 
learn first to look upon watering his plants, not 
as the simplest part, but as one crucial test of 
his cultural skill; and secondly, that ho should 
study the nature and habits of the plants he is 
cultivating, so that he may treat each one accord¬ 
ingly. 

Hints such as these are trite and common¬ 
place enongh. Vet there are always some who 
are learners, and these are often thankful 
for the small stepping stones which help them 
to pick their way safely over some difficulties, 
and which may save them from buying their ex¬ 
perience dearly through some failures. To such 
persons, and not to the initiated, are they com¬ 
mended. K. L, D. 


The window garden in London.-Of 
all the hobbies and recreations that a person can 
take to, this is one from which to derive the 
greatest pleasure, and also as an innocent pas¬ 
time for spare hours; at least, such has been ito 
case with myself. But how to suceeed is the 
problem, which is only solved by experience, and 
that I think I have gained after losing many 
subjects. The list of plants I now give consists 
of those I have found most successful, and from 
this I recommend them, but first would advise 
trying onespecial thing, which I have also tried 
to do and failed to stick to, as every lover of 
flowers will find out themselves. But for those 
who can, I should first recommend the various 
Geraniums, which certainly gives the finest 
show, and may be renewed by cuttings, or 
keeping the old plants, or buying fresh each 
year, which, as they are so cheap, is perhaps the 
easiest, but I prefer the former, as that is part 
of the pleasure. The next, and perhaps the 
easiest, is the Chrysanthemum, which fills the win¬ 
dows with beautiful foliage all the summer, and 
flowers when noce others are to be found; and 
when once a stock is obtained, you have enough 
and to spare for all future time, and very 
pleasing it will be found to start the cuttings 
each spring, and see the happy results. A pretty 
effect is made by planting a box full of Pompone 
varieties. Another favourite gem is the Auricula. 
These may easily be raised from seed, and give 
amusement and certain reward every year. To 
these may be added the Lilies, Ferns, Orchids 
Iris, and for those wlro cannot bear a little 
trouble, the Cactus, which may be put in the 
windows for ornament, and when tired of then 
put away in the cupboard or anywhere else until 
curiosity causes them to be brought out and 
their cultivation gone into again. Each of the 
above after a first expense, rarely costs anything 
more, as a fresh stock can easily be reared each 
season, and plenty to spare, and no doubt if» 
person coaid stick to any one of them, they 
would give even more gratifying results, 1 
myself have witnessed, though I cannot localise 
myself bo effectually; Lilium lancifolinm 
gives grand displays. I have not given any 
hints about the cultivation, as it is so often 
illustrated in the pages of this valuable papet 
but if anyone would like to know how 1 haw 
managed mine, I should be pleased to sdn* 
them, and may just as well hint that I sm linn! 
in a densely populated part, and have only nf 
room to operate in, and should like to oed 
others of my class whose fondness for DowfO 
has not been quite extinguished in these 
of high class civilisation. An exhibition in son# 
local hall of all the above in each of tie# 
seasons, grown bona fuU in windows, and start* 
in every district by someone who has the rc ,,a 
and will, would, I think, be a great boon tr 
many, with the happiest results.—H. SHitT 
Great Titchjield Street, London, IF. 


1 0773. —Oallae in windows.-It is , l nlt . 
possible to bloom this well in a room, but l 
must be grown during the summer in the ope 
air. By the end of June it should be placed i 
the opeD, and about the middle of July all tr 
old soil Bhould be shaken away, and the roo' 
repotted in fresh compost. Grow in a star 
place through the summer, giving plenty * 
water, and place in a cool room about the cried 
of September, removing to a warmer oneat ti 
end of November_J. C. B. 



Jan. 12, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


515 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


THE PERSIAN CYCLAMEN. 

The annexed engraving represents a group of 
very fine flowers of the Persian Cyclamen, drawn 
bv onr artist daring Christmas week in Messrs. 
\ eitch k Son's nursery at Chelsea, and show 
what a valuable plant the Cyclamen is for 
winter decoration, and for supplying cut blooms. 
We have seen larger blooms than those here 


shelf of a moderately-warm greenhouse or con¬ 
servatory will be found to be by no means an 
unsuitable situation for them, and where in 
company with the Chinese Primrose, the Hya¬ 
cinth, and other low-growing winter-flowering 
plants, they can hardly fail to produce a lively 
and pleasing appearance during the winter. 

Propagation. —Cyclamens may be increased 
by offsets or by division, but the easiest and best 
method is by means of seed, and in order to 
keep up a stock as well as having a chance of 


Sowing seed. —The seeds of these plants 
may be sown as soon as it is ripe, or, say, during 
the month of August, in a well-drained pot or 
pots some 6-inches in diameter, filled with light 
and tolerably rich soil. On the surface of this 
the seed should be sown, not too thickly, and it 
should be pressed gently into the soil. Cover 
slightly with silver sand or light soil, water with 
a fine rose to settle it, and a pane of glass should 
be placed over the surface of the pot, while the 
surface of the soil should be some half an inch 



represented, but colour and form are in our 
opinion of more importance than mere size. As 
regards culture, we cannot do better than reprint 
an article from Gardening a few weeks ago 
The many beautiful and sweetly-perfumed 
varieties of the Persian Cyclamen are exceedingly 
desirable for the decoration of the greenhouse 
or conservatory in winter, its time of flowering 
being generally from the early part of October 
until the beginning of March. This Cyclamen 
has also the merit of being of easy culture, and 
the various varieties are possibly never seen to 
greater advantage than when occupying a 
suitable structure, such as a low span-roofed 
pit, entirely devoted to them. As, however, it 
may seldom be convenient to do this!, the front 

TjO glc 


securing improved varieties, it is advisable to 
raise a quantity of seedlings annually; and, as 
a probable means of obtaining the latter desider¬ 
atum, i.e., improved varieties, the seed should be 
saved from selected plants from the best strain, 
which during their time of flowering should be 
isolated from the more ordinary stock. Where 
a variety of extraordinary merit is secured, and 
of which it will, of course, be desirable to 
obtain stock, it is advisable to place it in a 
favourable situation in some structure contain¬ 
ing no other plants of the family, and care must 
be taken to fertilise the blooms with their own 
pollen. From such a plant the seed if properly 
saved will generally be found to produce plants 
tolerably true to the original. 


under the glass. The pots should now be placed 
in a pit or frame. Little water will be re¬ 
quired until the seedlings appear, when the piece 
of glass should be tilted up, and finally alto¬ 
gether removed. When the plants have made 
two or more leaves they should be gently raised 
and pricked into seed-pans in soil similar to that 
in which the Beed was sown. This is possibly 
better, and certainly gives less trouble than pot¬ 
ting singly into small pots, as is sometimes done, 
as the young plants can be wintered in consider¬ 
ably less space. The pans may be placed upon 
the top shelf of a warm greenhouse. 

Potting. —In March the plants should be 
potted singly into 3-inch pots, and should be 
retained in a close, warm atmosphere until they 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





















516 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Jaw. 12, 1884’. 


haTe become somewhat established. They 
should then be placed upon ashes in a cold pit, 
and kept at the same time pretty close to the 
glass, giving air whenever the state of the 
weather will permit. In August, or about the 
time when old plants are beginning to start into 
growth and require repotting, the young plants 
may also be Bln.Led into their flowering pots, 
which in their case need seldom exceed 5 inches 
in diameter, although old and large plants may 
require pots of greater dimensions, and the soil 
need may be similar to that used for Pelargo¬ 
niums and other soft-wooded greenhouse plants. 
After potting, the plants should be kept in a 
minimum temperature of 50°, and the young 
as well as the old plants will generally com¬ 
mence to bloom early in October, or in about 
fourteen months from the time of sowing. If 
kept in a temperature similar to that just 
named, they will generally continue to bloom 
until the following month of March. • When 
flowering is over, they should be returned to a 
cold pit or frame, which will afford the neces¬ 
sary protection until the weather becomes 
sufficiently mild to allow them to be either 
planted out or placed in their pots in a sheltered 
and somewhat shaded situation in the open air, 
but they should not be allow to become alto¬ 
gether dried off. The same plants may be 
grown for an indefinite number of years, al¬ 
though some, preferring young plants, discard 
them after the second or third season. Whether 
the plants after flowering are retained in their 
pots or planted out in the open borders, if the 
decaying flowers are allowed to remain upon 
them, it will be found that they will make an 
instinctive effort to sow, as it were, their own 
seed as it becomes ripe by a peculiar twisting of 
the flower-stalks towards the surface of the soil, 
and when this is observed it may be regarded as 
an indication of the seed being ripe, and then, 
if required, it should be gathered and sown. 

Insects. —Cyclamens do not generally suffer 
from insect pests, but sometimes they are at¬ 
tacked by aphides, and whenever this is found 
to be the case fumigation should be resorted to. 
Their most formidable enemy, however, is a 
small white grub or maggot, the larva of some 
small fly, which not nnfreqnently attacks the 
undersides of the tubers, and if undisturbed 
will continue to feed upon them until little ex¬ 
cept the skin or upper surface is left. Strong 
lime water has been found to be a remedy; it 
either kills the maggots or compels them to 
leave the pots. Soot water is doubtless also dis¬ 
tasteful to the maggots as well as to the fly which 
produces them; but as soon as the time of 
flowering has passed, all infected tubers, as well 
as the soil containing them, should be burned, in 
order to prevent the maggots from attacking 
other plants, which they are by no means un¬ 
likely to do. If the plants attacked are valuable, 
and it is desired to preserve them, then the best 
remedy is taking the tubers from the soil and 
washing them carefully, so as to remove every¬ 
thing like insect eggs or lame. Pot again in 
fresh light soil, using pots no larger than are re¬ 
quired to admit the tubers; place them in a cold 
pit. which should for a time be kept close until 
new roots are formed, which, under such circum¬ 
stances, will not be long in taking place. 

r. G. 


CULTURE OF CYTISUS RACEMOSUS. 
This is an evergreen shrub of easy culture, and 
a plant well suited for the greenhouse of the 
Amateur. When in full flower in the spring it 
will scarcely yield to any other occupant of the 
greenhouse for beauty. Nice little plants 1 foot 
or 1 A feet high, and 1 foot in diameter, can be 
had from cuttings in one year, and these dotted 
along the front line on the stage of a greenhouse, 
or arranged in little groups in different parts of 
the house will be found to be very effective. To 
have nice bushy plants for flowering in spring, 
or say to have plants coming into flower a year 
hence from now, good strong cuttings should be 
taken off early in February and inserted firmly 
in a mixture of leaf-mould, sand, and a little 
sifted loam, and plunged in brisk bottom heat. 
As soon as they are rooted, pot singly into 21- 
inch pots, keeping close and a little warm for 
aoouta week, until they are fairly started. They 
may then be pinched so as to form them into 
bushes. As soon as the 2A inch pole are full of 
roots, shift into 3-inch pots, finishing tho plants 
into pots inches diameter. Keep flinching judi¬ 
ciously all the ti^euq^SeftQlJe^ut never 


pinch and pot at the same time. A good time 
to pot after pinching is when the young growths 
are about an inch long, and never pinch after 
potting until the roots have started to work in 
the fresh soil. The soil best suited for them is 
about three parts of good tnrfy loam to one of 
leaf-mould, with a little sand added just to 
make it porous. The most suitable place to 
grow them in summer is in a cold frame near 
the glass, and remember to turn the plants once 
or twice a week so as not to have them one¬ 
sided. They require plenty of water when grow¬ 
ing, and liquid manure once a week. If large 
plants are wanted, a few should be grown on for 
that purpose; they will soon make specimens 4 
feet or 5 feet high, and 2 feet or 3 feet through 
at the base. The best form to grow large plants 
into is in the form of a dome. Standards, with 
stems 14 feet or 2 feet high, arranged so as to 
have their heads looking out amongst dwarf 
plants, are very effective when in flower. Stan¬ 
dards may easily be formed by running up the 
strongest stem, keeping off the side shoots until 
the desired height be reached, then by pinching 
you will soon form a head. Always after flower¬ 
ing they should be pruned well in. Red spider 
is the only insect that seems to attack them, but 
it can easily be kept off by applying soap and 
water frequently with the syringe. There are 
more indoor varieties of Cytisus all deserving of 
culture, and requiring the same treatment. I 
only mention racemosus, as it is one of the 
best and a good grower.—J. Robebtson, Con- 
denkrwKes. 


Violets in winter. —The Marie Louise 
well deserves the many eulogies bestowed on it 
for its good and free-flowering qualities, espe¬ 
cially as a late summer and early autumn 
variety. The blooms are also very fine and 
richly coloured. The quantity of flowers that 
may be gathered from it from August to Novem¬ 
ber is something enormous ; but for mid-winter, 
when the supply begins to diminish in the case 
of this variety, the Neapolitan is just in its 
glory. Our plants of the last named sort are 
now masses of flowers and buds. This charac¬ 
teristic of the Neapolitan in succeeding the 
other at this season, makes it especially valu¬ 
able ; therefore, an equal quantity of both kinds 
should be grown where a continuous supply is 
required. The Neapolitan is doubtless the more 
difficult to manage, but under good cultivation 
the flowers are equally fine as those of Marie 
Louise. We find a half-shaded, cool, and moist 
border the best position to produce good plants. 
Violets are very subject to red spider, and must 
have plenty of water in hot weather. If there 
is the least suspicion of red spider when the 
plants are lifted in the autumn for placing in 
frames, it is a good plan to dip all the foliage in 
a solution of nicotine soap, as unless thoroughly 
free from that pest the leaves will damp and rot 
off in damp, cold weather when tho frames are 
kept more or less closed. On the other hand, if 
the foliage is healthy, this great evil will be 
avoided. We use ordinary two-light frames 
placed on beds made of leaves and stable litter 
in preference to brick pits, as we find the plants 
remain close to the glass throughout the winter; 
whereas, when planted in brick pits, from the 
gradual subsidence of the material in which 
they are planted, they settle too far from the 
glass. With double mats in sharp weather, and 
manure linings if necessary, it is an easy matter 
to keep the temperature at 45° in the sharpest 
weather, a temperature which suits the Violet 
well. A rise of 5° or 10° should be allowed if 
the sun should shine at this dull season.—W. A. 

Early Hyaolntha.— I have to-day in full 
bloom a magnificent single white Hyacinth (not 
Roman). As I think it is very early for a Dutch 
Hyacinth to be out, it may interest your readers 
to know how I managed. I may say I am a 
bona fide amateur, having no professional assis¬ 
tance whatever, and that eighteen months ago I 
hardly knew a Rose from a Cabbage. I planted 
this Hyacinth with others on Sept. 8 , in equal 
quantities of loam and cow manure, with a 
liberal allowance of sand. I then plunged the 
pot in ashes in a shed; on November 6 th took 
it out of the ashes and put it in subdued light, 
and gradually gave it more until it acquired a 
healthy green hue. I then began to use very 
weak manure water, having until this kept it 
quite dry ; on December 1st I put it in a heat of 
55°, and kept it almost touching the glass, and 
on Christmas Day the flower was as large and 


perfect as any I have ever seen even when not 
forced. I have another Hyacinth that will be 
in flower in a day or two, and several more tint 
will flower during the next fortnight.—F. 

Solomon’s Seal In winter.—When 

forced into bloom under glass the flowers of this 
are whiter than when they expand naturafik in 
the open ground, and the plants form very pvetity 
objects for conservatory decoration at this sea¬ 
son, besides being useful in a cut state, as fro® 
the size and graceful appearance of the sprays, 
they can be employed for large stands or vases* 
which are, as a rule, difficult to furnish satis¬ 
factory at this time of the year. For forcing 
clumps of them they may be potted just as they 
are grown, or the strongest eyes may be selected 
and potted about half a dozen in a 6 -inch pot, 
or if larger specimens are needed, both the 
number of the crowns and the size of the pots 
moy be increased. This latter method is in one 
respect greatly to be preferred, as when potted 
in clumps just as they are grown, the mass is 
often of an irregular shape, which necessities a 
large pot being used in proportion to the size of 
the plant, while when the strongest eyes only 
are taken they do not require so much pot room. 
Treated about the same as its relative, the Lily 
of the Valley, it will succeed perfectly. 

10810 .—Small bulbs of Lilium anra- 
tum.—In the case of small bulbs which aie 
formed from the old specimens, it is better to 
grow them on for a time in pots, as if left in 
the open ground the chances are that they will 
perish in some way, not being of sufficient 
strength to endure the excessive moisture to 
which they are often subjected in our English 
winters. The best way is to put all together in 
44 -inch or 6 -inch pot, according to the number,, 
giving good drainage, and using fibrous peat 
with plenty of white Fand in it. Keep the soil 
moist duriDg the winter, and stand the pots in 
a cold frame or greenhouse until the beginning 
of June, when they should be removed to the 
open air. If when the stems die down in 
autumn the pots are found to be full of roots,, 
shift at once into larger ones, otherwise they 
may remain for another year without distur¬ 
bance. In this way they will come to go.:''. 
sized bulbs in the course of two seasons.— 
J C. B. 

10798.— Plants failing' in the green¬ 
house. — You do not state your case very 
clearly. The form of the house is not stated ; 
nor do you say in what way it is shaded. A 
stove house 2 feet higher on the west side 
would not shade it much until the afternoon. As 
the house is probably a lean-to, and has no 
means of ventilation in the roof, that must be 
provided for in some way. The simplest plan 
would be to causo the top lights to slide. The 
want of ventilation will cause the plants to become 
lanky, and the want of light would make matters 
worse. Then it is entirely wrong to have the 
boiler and furnace under the same roof as the 
plants; thetop of a boiler may be built inside a 
house, but the idea of stoking there cannot be 
thought of. The best thing for you to do would 
be to consult a hothouse builder and hotwater 
engineer. With the scanty information you 
give it would not be safe to advise you.—J. D. E. 

10772.— Roehea falcata.— It is in all pro¬ 
bability want of sun and air that is the cause 
of the plants not blooming. Very few flowering 
plants require so much sun as this, and the 
only right place for it is near the glass in a sunny 
airy greenhouse, where it can get a good roasting 
in hot weather. In winter it should be kept 
quite cool and get but little water, but in sum¬ 
mer, when growing freely, the soil should be 
kept well moistened. Sandy loam is the best 
soil, but this plant, like succulents generally, 
does not need to be repotted oftener than once 
in three years. It flowers best when root-bound, 
and some liquid manure can always be given.— 
J. C„ By fleet. 

10738.— Lilies not blooming. —We have 
known Lilies to fail in the manner described, 
and invariably found that defective root action 
was the cause of it. Probably the soil was too 
retentive, and wo would use lumpy peat alone 
for auratum, and peat and loam i n equal parts 
for speciosum, with a liberal addition of silver 
sand. Give good drainage, and water very 
sparingly until the plants come well into growth. 
Keep under glass until the middle of June, and 
then place in a sheltered position in the open 
air.— J.-C. B. ' ■ w ILLllVUIJW 



Jan. 12, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


517 


10799.— Lilium auratum not growing. 

—It is strange that the balb should not have made 
roots from its base, and this is the cause of its 
decreasing in size. Probably the soil was sour, 
and you will succeed better by using all peat, in 
lumps about the size of a nut, with plenty of 
white sand in it. Give good drainage, just 
covering the bulb, and allowing several inches 
from it to the rim of the pot for top-dressing. 
Keep the pot in a cold frame or greenhouse, 
maintaining the soil just moist until growth is 
well commenced.—J. C. B. 

-As the bulb has decreased considerably 

in size, you cannot expect it to do so well next 
year. Remove the stem with the roots attached 
to it without injuring the bulb. Carefully pot 
it as before. Pot in moderately moist soil, and 
it is best to plunge the pot in cocoa-nut fibre 
refuse in a frame. If the bulb had done well it 
would have been as large again, instead of the 
reverse.—J. D. E. 

10829. —Bedding Pelargoniums and 

Calceolarias.—You ought not to have pinched off 
the tops of the rooted Calceolaria cuttings. 
These top3 ought to have been put in as cuttings 
a few weeks hence. Leave the plants still in 
cold frames, and as soon as you can get cuttings 
take them off, they will strike rapidly in a hot¬ 
bed during this and the two following months. 
The Pelargoniums will do best in a heated honse, 
and the cuttings do best when the pots con¬ 
taining them are placed on a shelf near the 
glass in the same house. They also prefor a dry 
to a moist atmosphere.—J. D. E. 

- There is little chance of the cuttings of 

either the Calceolarias or the Geraniums being 
so far advanced in the spring as to allow of 
cuttings being taken from them. Better keep 
them as they are and buy struck cuttings in the 
spring, or strike them in summer and autumn. 
—P. R. 

10824.— Irises in pots.— If the bulbs were 
potted in moist soil, and are plunged in the 
ground, they will need no more water until early 
spring. About 4 inches of ashes or cocoa fibre 
should, however, be placed over them as a pro¬ 
tection against hard frosts and heavy rains, which 
otherwise sodden the soil. This may be removed 
about the middle of March, and the pots stood 
in a sheltered but sunny situation, where they 
should remain until they are coming into bloom. 
—J. C. B. 

10822.—Spiraeas.—Keep the soil just moist 
only until the plants come well into growth, but 
do not give manure-water at this time of year 
to plants which are resting or nearly so. When 
they have filled the pots with roots and have 
abundant foliage, they should be watered liber¬ 
ally, and should get weak manure-water two or 
three times a week, according to the weather.— 
J. C. B. 

10344.— Roses and Lyoopods.— Lyoopodg growing 
over the surface of the border where Marshal Niel is 
planted will do no harm, but it would be well to take olf 
the Lycopod annually, and work in aome rotten manure 
to aid in giving vigour to the Rose.—J. D. E. 

10839. -Climbing Rosea for greenhouse —The 
three best climbers for a greenhouse are, white, Cliinbiug 
I»evoniensis; red, Cheshunt Hybrid; yellow, ft!ar£chal 
NleL—A. PARKER. 

- Marechal Niel is the best climbing yellow Rose; 

wo should plant Cheshunt Hybrid for a red, and Niplietos 
for white.—J, D. K. 


VEGETABLES. 


PITS AND FRAMES FOR VEGETABLES, 
According to my experience the majority of 
proprietors of moderate-sized (gardens scarcely 
realise the valae of pits and frames, more espe¬ 
cially for forwarding the supply of a few kinds 
of popular vegetables. In large gardens, as a 
rule, we find an imposing array of them devoted, 
in the first instance, to early vegetable culture, 
and later on, according as cleared, to hardening 
oft bedding plants, the summer culture of Cu¬ 
cumbers, Melons, Capsicums, and Tomatoes, and 
the preparation of various kinds of flowering 
plants for the beautification of the houses during 
the winter. Now, if these pits and frames are 
found indispensable in large gardens, it is evi¬ 
dent a proportionate number would be equally 
serviceable in smaller establishments. Some 
years ago I was in this predicament. Tits and 
frames we had in abundance after a fashion, but 
they were literally all to raficeS, the lights-being 
shaky and nearly clear a^glf^s 


brickwork was falling, and the stout woodwork 
was rotten. We commenced our rough repairs 
by glazing some of the soundest of the- lights at 
the expense of the remainder, as we preferred to 
have a few good ones, more especially for the 
earliest crops, rather than a greater number of 
bad ones. The skeleton lights were covered with 
strips of felting, and more of this was employed 
on frames destined to cover some large, rough 
pits, which we constructed with boards of various 
descriptions obtained as best we could. In addi- 
tion to these coverings we found it advisable in 
case of extra cold weather to have a heap of 
rough, dry litter from the stable yard in readi¬ 
ness to throw over the top and sides of the 
frames. Vet in these cobbled-up makeshifts we, 
during two seasons, grew a capital lot of early 
vegetables, some of which frequently figured pro¬ 
minently at horticultural exhibitions, and cer¬ 
tainly have not been excelled by any we have 
since grown in the orthodox fashion. Moreover, 
the rough pits were of great service in rearing 
early plants for the kitchen garden, and we still 
prefer them for this purpose. Now my present 
object is to induce others to attempt early vege¬ 
table culture even with apparently unsuitable 
appliances, or, better still, with good pits and 
frames. It is true they must be prepared for a 
considerable amount of work, but they will be 
amply compensated. It may also, as in my case, 
eventually result in old pits being repaired and 
new pits and frames added. Employers are not 
blind to their own interests, and my advice to 
newly-engaged gardeners is to first merit and 
then ask for encouragement in the shape of^im¬ 
provements. 

Heating material. —At the commencement 
heating material, and this is in considerable 
quantities, will be found indispensable, nothing, 
in my opinion, being better than a mixture in 
equal portions of fresh stable manure and leaves. 
The former alone is apt to become violently hot 
even after careful preparation, and this, besides 
injuring the occupants of the frame, leaves the 
manure in a mouldy state. Leaves alone cannot 
always bo depended upon for retaining heat for 
any length of time. This will be especially the 
case this season, as by no means conld they be 
collected sufficiently dry to prevent rapid decom¬ 
position. Stable manure requires to be well 
shaken up into a heap, to stand for a week or ten 
days according to the weather, when it shonld be 
turned and again allowed to heat for the same 
period. In this manner much of the poisonous 
rank heat will be thrown off, and the manure 
and leaves may then be well shaken up together, 
and in most instances may be used at once— 
vegetables, as a rule, not needing deep hotbeds. 
We usually require three large heaps of heating 
material during the season, the first being now 
prepared, and the remainder according as the 
manure is forthcoming. 

SUITARLE SOILS are not always easily ob¬ 
tained, especially during the first season, in 
sufficient quantities for a large number of frames. 
The following season much of the old material 
is available if freshened up with loam, leaf-soil, 
&c., as the case may be. Our compost is made 
up with old potting soil, old Cucumber and 
Melon soil, leaf-soil and road trimmings, not 
mixed promiscuously, but regularly and care¬ 
fully stored away in heaps, and employed 
according to the requirements of the various 
crops. It is almost impossible to preserve a 
tidy appe,arance where this kind of forcing is 
carried out, and for this reason no garden should 
be without a frame-ground, or Melon-yard, as it 
used to be termed. This, if possible, should 
be outside the garden proper, being then more 
accessible to carts. It ought to be well drained, 
and if sheltered from cold winds, much heat 
will be preserved in the beds that otherwise 
would be quickly blown out. 

Carrots and Radishes, we find, are 
always most acceptable in a young tender 
state. For this reason a sowing is made as 
early in January as circumstances permit, fol¬ 
lowed by another sowing about six weeks later. 
A shallow hotbed is formed about 3 feet high 
at the back and sloping well to the front. A 
shallow two or three-light frame is placed on it, 
and filled to within 9 inches of the lights with 
the shortest of the manure, and on this is dis¬ 
posed about.fi inches of sifted soil, nothing being 
better for this purpose than old potting soil. If 
the manure has been well prepared, there is 
little danger of its over-heating, but should this 


be anticipated, the soil, in this and all other 
cases, should not be pnt on till it declines to 
75°. When the soil is warmed through, drills 
are formed with an angular strip of wood, and 
about 4 inches apart, every alternate row being 
sown with Carrots and the remainder with 
Radishes, the soil being levelled over them. It 
is a great mistake to sow the seed at all thickly, 
as every good seed is certain to germinate, and 
crowding spoils the seedlings, besides necessi¬ 
tating much thinning ont. The frame may 
be kept close and dark till the Radishes, 
which germinate much the quickest, are 
pushing through, after which air must be 
given on all favourable occasions. Both 
the Carrots and Radishes will be benefited by 
having the lights thrown off during the warmest 
part of sunny days, and should be protected 
during the nights. When closing the frame 
early in the afternoon it is advisable to lightly 
damp the surface of the bed. By the time the 
earliest Carrots are fit for drawing, the lights 
may be dispensed with, any light, protecting 
material being substituted in case of frost. The 
best Carrot for all purposes is the Nantes Horn, 
and if some of the sturdiest of the Beedlings 
are reserved and kept watered as required these 
will give handsome roots, invaluable for exhibi¬ 
tion purposes dnring May, June, and July. Of 
Radishes, Wood’s Early Frame is still the most 
profitable early variety, while the French Break¬ 
fast and the new Extra Early Forcing Red and 
White Turnip varieties are quick-growing and 
good in quality. Very little bottom heat is 
necessary for Carrots and Radishes sown later 
than February. 

Potatoes are now being fast planted in pits 
and frames, and where Radishes are in great 
demand these are sown thinly either between 
the rows or over the whole bed. I do not recom¬ 
mend sowing Radishes with Potatoes, however, 
if snflicient can be grown elsewhere. All onr 
earliest seed kidney Potatoes are stored on their 
ends in shallow boxes, and all side shoots either 
rubbed off or picked out with the point of a 
knife, as we prefer to depend entirely upon the 
strong central sprout. Those intended for the 
earlier plantings arc plunged thinly in boxes of 
leaf-soil and placed in a gentle heat to sprout. 
They root strongly into the leaf-soil and can 
easily be moved and planted into the warm soil 
of the pits and frames without experiencing the 
slighest check. Cilazednnheated pits are prepared 
for them by first securing a depth of about 3 feet 
of well-turned heating material; on this is placed 
a layer of short manure, finishing off with a depth 
of 10 inches of compost. Any light soil is suitable, 
but our favourite compost consists of old Melon 
and Cncumber soil and finely sifted old potting 
soil in equal proportions. Out of such a mixture 
we have turned some of the cleanest and best Po¬ 
tatoes we have yet seen, and fin for any purpose. 
The frames we nse for early Potatoes are abont 
27 inc hes deep at the back and 18 inches deep in 
front, and for these the beds are made about 
4 feet high at the back and a foot less in front. 
As it is necessary to have the growth as near 
the glass as possible, we sink the frames into 
the bed to abont half their depth, and otherwise 
prepare them similar to pits. The frames can 
be raised whenever the haulm gets dangerously 
near the glass. Potatoes should not be planted 
till the trial stick, which ought always to bo 
plungedi nto the centre of the beds, can be borne 
comfortably in the hand. The drills are drawn 
with the hand—three to each light, or abont 
18 inches apart—from the front to the back and 
8 inches deep. The tubers are disposed 8 inches 
apart and only slightly moulded over, preferring 
to level the bulk of the soil drawn out abont 
them as they advance into growth. But little 
air is given in the first instance unless the heat 
is very moist. In this case a little air should be 
constantly given. Later on air must freely be 
given whenever the state of the weather permits, 
always guarding against cold winds, the aim 
being to secure a sturdy growth. The soil should 
be kept in a moist state till ripening commences. 
The frames may be closed early in the after¬ 
noons, but it is not advisable to damp the foliage, 
as this may be the means of inviting the Potato 
disease. The earliest crops should be covered 
up every evening, and the later ones whenever 
frost is imminent. We fill as many pi^s and 
frames as we can possibly spare with Potatoes, 
and according as the manure is prepared. Two 
large rough unglazed pits are not filled till 
March. We have tried several varieties of 



518 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[■Jan. 12, 1884. 


Potatoes, but for frames we now rely entirely 
upon Veitch's Improved Ashleaf. Those who 
prefer a round variety should grow either 
Sutton’s First and best or Early Border. We 
tried a few of the latter last season, and have 
formed a high opinion of its merits. 

Pbas are not extensively grown in frames, not 
so much, in fact, as they deserve to be. At one 
time we grew Laxton’s Unique in unglazed pits, 
and by these means secured remunerative crops 
fourteen days in advance of the earliest outside 
pickings. We next grew Laxton’s Minimum in 
addition in a glazed pit and gained another fort¬ 
night. Now the same results are obtained by 
growing American Wonder under glass, to be 
followed by the same variety grown at the base 
of the warmest garden wallR. The latter variety 
is particularly well adapted for this purpose, but 
it has one fault, if I may so term it: it spoils the 
palate for the earliest round-seeded varieties. 
The shallow pits in which they are grown being 
now filled with Strawberries in pots, we sow the 
seed at the present time in boxes of leaf-soil and 
transplant. These boxes are placed on the border 
near the glass of an early Peach house, and be¬ 
fore the plants become drawn are transferred to 
a cooler house. In the meantime a depth of 
about 18 inches of the shortest of the prepared 
heating material is well trodden into the 
pits, and over this is disposed about 9 inches 
of good loamy soil. When warmed through 
deep drills about 18 inches apart are drawn out 
with a spade, much as we would for a Box 
hedge ; the Peas are shaken out of the soil, dis¬ 
persed in a single row about 2 inches asunder, 
and the roots carefully covered. This simple 
plan we find to answer better than several 
others we have tried, as the strong roots with 
their clusters of rootlets are easily preserved, 
and, when carefully planted, take quickly to the 
fresh soil, no appreciable check being given to 
the growth of the plants. Between the rows we 
are able to get a line of early Paris Market 
Lettuces, these being previously sown in a box 
at the same time as the Teas, and are fit to 
dibble out when the latter are. Planted 6 inches 
asunder, they soon fill up their allotted space, 
and, owing to their extreme earliness and 
excellent quality, more than compensate for the 
labour bestowed upon the two crops. A few 
Radishes may also be obtained from these pits. 
Peas require little or no bottom-heat, and no 
protection other than the lights of glazed pits or 
frames or mats where grown in unglazed 
structures. When well established, and not till 
then, they should receive air freely on all favour¬ 
able occasions, and never be allowed to get very 
dry at the roots. They may be grown with or 
without stakes, but we prefer to keep them up¬ 
right with the aid of Birch twigs. Years ago 
we saw what should have been a good pit of 
early Peas spoilt owing to being planted in 
shallow soil over dry mouldy manure which no 
watering would change. It was a good lesson, 
and I have never failed to provide early Peas 
with a bed of short, moist manure for them to 
root into. 


Cauliflowers we grow in a rough pit, pre¬ 
pared in a manner similar to that described for 
Peas. We have now glazed lights for the earliest, 
and prefer them to hand-lights. The plants are 
wintered in boxes, and early in February are 
planted out, about 5 inches apart each way, and 
treated similarly to the Peas. If large heads are 
required, say for exhibition purposes, when these 
are commencing to form it is advisable to water 
frequently with strong liquid manure. The Extra 
Early Forcing varieties are very early, and to 
succeed these we grow the Dwarf Erfurt Mam- 
moth - W. I. M. 


JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 

Preparation of the ground.— This should 
be trenched 2 feet deep during autumn or early 
in winter, ridging it as the trenching proceeds 
so as to expose a large surface to the action of 
frost. Plenty of rotten manure, if at hand, 
should be worked into the soil at the same time, 
as well as any decayed vegetable matter or half- 
rotten leaves, all of which will be found to be 
beneficial as manure. The tubers grow larger 
and are of better quality in ground of a rich, 
loose character than in poor, stiff land. If 
trenched in autumn, fork it over early in the 
new year, or some time before planting the 
tubers, an opejrhtiiJn which enaoleq the ground 


to get dry and in what is termed good working 
order. 

The planting should be done in February or 
March, pr ivided the weather is favourable, but 
it is always advisable to wait until the ground 
is sufficiently dry to prevent it from sticking to 
the feet. Dibble in the sets with a large dibber 
or open a drill with a draw hoe 9 inches deep; 
then stretch a garden line, and plant in rows 
2 feet apart and from 9 inches to 12 inches set 
from set. Procure some tubers of a medium 
size, which may be planted whole, but if large 
cut them in half, and if extra large cut them 
into sets, leaving several eyeB to each. When 
planted cover them over and rake the ground 
level. Hoe frequently between the rows to keep 
down weeds until the stems are tall enough to 
cover the ground. Draw some mould up to 
them when from 12 inchesto 18inches iri height. 

Storing. —As soon in autumn as the stems 
become yellow cut them down, when the tubers 
may be dug up and stored in a dry shed or 
cellar, or, if more convenient, in a pit in the 
ground, covering them with straw and covering 
the pit 18 inches thick with soil, which will pre¬ 
serve the tubers during the winter. When re¬ 
quired for use a few may be taken out of the 
pit at a time, but care must be taken to recover 
the pit carefully each time. If thought fit, the 
tubers may be left in the ground where they 
grew, and a few dug up from time to time as 
may be required, the whole being lifted in time 
for other spring crops. Be careful when dig¬ 
ging up the crop to leave as few in the ground 
as possible, as every small piece grows and be¬ 
comes a source of trouble when small seed is 
sown upon the ground. Artichokes will be found 
to yield the best crops when the tubers are 
planted upon a different piece of ground each 
year, preparing it as previously recommended. 

As FOOD the tubers may be used in a variety 
of ways. They are both wholesome and nutri¬ 
tious boiled and mashed with butter. They are 
also largely used for making soups. When made 
into pies they will be found to have an excellent 
flavour, and by some are highly appreciated. 
Cottagers will find this Artichoke a profitable 
crop, not being liable to any disease either when 
growing or after being harvested. Small tubers 
may be boiled and used as poultry food mixed 
with Barley meal, a kind of food which will be 
found to suit both young or old poultry. If 
more are grown than are required, they may be 
used in a raw state for feeding pheasants. 

_ W. C. 


Potato culture— The plan of culture 
which I have adopted has been very successful. I 
select good Potatoes for sets, and keep them 
throughthewinterfromsprouting. If leftuncared 
for they get so much exhausted by growing out 
before they are pnt into the ground, that it is im¬ 
possible to have a good crop. Very often I see 
Potatoes planted with long sprouts, and in that 
case they are up before they have made roots. I 
also see them planted so much too close that 
neither sun nor air can get through them. I 
plant all my Potatoes about the second week in 
March without any sprouts, i e., if the land is in 
a fit state to receive them ; then both roots and 
sprouts start together, and when just coming up 
if you examine one you will find a large mass 
of roots attached to it. In that case if touched 
by spring frost they have something under the 
ground wherewith to withstand the check. I 
plant early and late kinds all at one time. 
Some plant late ones first and early ones a month 
later, and expect the early ones to be fit for 
table a month before the late kinds. But I say 
put them all in at one time if you want a good 
crop, then the early sorts will be fit for use some 
time before the late kinds. I plant the early 
ones 2 feet apart, and the late 3 feet apart from 
row to row. Any person who follows my practice 
will never fail to have a good crop. I have 
adopted this plan for six years without a failure. 
The crops are, however, heavier some years than 
others.—E. B. 

Turnip-tops. —AVefind these extremelyuse- 
fnl at this time of the year. When sufficiently 
blanched they become remarkably crisp and 
serviceable for kitchen purposes. Planted 
under any suitable greenhouse stage amongst 
sand, leaf-mould, or soil, or in boxes placed 
above the boiler in stokeholes, shading the sets 
or plants from the influences of light, they will 
be ready for cutting in the course of eight or 


nine days afterwards. By planting fortnightly 
| sets and keeping them damp at the root sthey 
may be bad at any time throughout the winter 

months, when other vegetables are scarce.—G.D 
10845.—Rhubarb In frames—If you 
conld make a gentle hotbed under the frame 
and plunge the Rhubarb roots in some Cocoa- 
nut fibre, leaf-mould, or even ordinary soil, the 
roots would soon start. In ordinary frames 
without dung heat, you cannot expect to gain 
more than two or perhaps three weeks,—J. D. E. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(miscellaneous.) 

10821. — Building a greenhouse.-A 

span or half-span greenhouse should be more 
than 7 feet wide. If you could make it 9 feet it 
would be better, as you could then have a stage 
on either side of a central path 3 feet 3inches 
wide, which could also be carried round the end 
or ends. It would be better if the door could 
be in the end, but as the 5-feet walls mark the 
extent of yourgarden, this would not be possible. 
We presume you wish the walls to remain as 
they are, and that the 7-feet wall will be one 
side of the house; on this you most place the 
wall plate on which the rafters will rest. On 
the other side you must build a wall about 3 feet 
6 inches above the ground line ; 3 feet G inches 
more will be glass sashes to open, which will 
bring this side of the house np to the same 
height as the 7 feet wall. This would make a 
Bpan-roof house, which, under the circumstances, 
would be best. The ends would spriDg from 
plates fixed on the 5 feet walls. Perhaps the 
best place for tbe door would be about the 
middle of the house. The stokehole should be 
made at one end ; a ventilator should also be 
formed at each end near the apex of the roof, or 
what would be better, every alternate light in 
the roof conld be made to slide.—J. D. E. 

10807.— Pruning fruit trees.— It is easy 
enough to distinguish between blossom and 
leaf buds. The leaf buds are pointed, and the 
blossom buds are rounded. Apple and Pear 
trees produce their fruits from spurs. Tire 
young wood must be thinned out and shortened. 
Some trees, such as the Peach and Nectarine,do 
not produce spnrs, but bear on the young wood. 
In that case the young wood requires thinning 
out; and unless the shoots are very strong, they 
should not be out back. As a rale, all thesingle 
buds on the young wood of a Peach or Nectarine 
tree are blossom buds; where three buds are to¬ 
gether, the centre one is a leaf bud and the two 
side ones blossom buds. Rivers's “ Miniature 
Fruit Garden ” would give you good informa¬ 
tion.—,!. D. E. 

10786.— Gape Gooseberries— The Cape 
Gooseberry is not, as you appear to 6uppote, 
valuable on account of its fruit. It is grown 
for the sake of its flowers, which, although not 
showy, are numerously enough produced to 
render a well-grown specimen fairly attractive. 
The proper name of this plant is Mai va capensis, 
and it used to be much grown by cottagers and 
others as a window plant, but is now superseded 
by more attractive things. It is of very easy 
culture, demanding a free, fairly rich soil, and 
plenty of air at all times, thriving best in the 
open air through the summer. In its earlier 
stages of growth the strong shoots should be 
stopped to induce a bushy formation.— J. C. B. 

10815.— Tarring hot-water pipes--- 
question whether the pipes were painted with 
ordinary gas-tar; if so, the effects on the occu¬ 
pants of the greenhouse must have been most 
deleterious. Possibly it was Brunswick black, 
as that would give off a strong odour when the 
pipes became hot. The best application is boiled 
linseed oil, mixed with a sufficient quantity of 
lampblack to make it an intense black. Lay 
this on thinly with a brush. It will quickly dry. 
and coat the pipes with a handsome black glare 
both harmless and odourless, and effectually 
prevent any deterioration by rust.—K., Horn.v y 

10819.— Worms In Llllum auratum - 

To keep worms from entering the pots, put in 
the first place a layer of fibrous material on the 
drainage, and on that abont half an inch of soot 
This will keep them oat, at any rate, until tlw 
pots are fuli of roots, and then a worm or t*n 
do no harm, and the soot makes fine food fur 
Lilies. At the same time, by standing the put* 


a 




b 


I 



Jan. 12 , 1884 .] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


519 






on ashes, or on tiles, or something similar, the 
entry of worms will, in a great measure, be pre¬ 
vented. hut nothing is so effectual as soot.— 
J. C. B. 


- In potting, sprinkle over the drainage 

a good layer of soot, making it quite black. This 
will effectually keep out worms and materially 
benefit the blooms also. Always stand the pots 
when out of doors upon ashes, or any hard 
bottom, never upon soil.— Brixton Amatueb. 

10803.— Painting hot water pipes.— 

Tar is the worst thing you could have thought 
of to paint pipes with, and you cannot get 
ordinary paint to remain on over tar. It would 
be best to scrape the tar off, and paint the pipes 
first with red lead, and then give them two coats 
of any colour you fancy of ordinary oil paint. 
Perhaps your plants suffer from an over-heated 
atmosphere; 60° is far too high a temperature 
tor a greenhouse; 45° would be the average 
night temperature in an ordinary greenhouse at 
this season of the year.—J. D. E. 

10831.—SmokeleBB heating apparatus 
—If it can be obtained in his neighbourhood, 
** G. W.” will find that anthracite coal will suit 
his purpose. The only smoke produced will 
be that given off by the wood at the time of 
lighting ; but, when this has passed off, there 
will be no smoke whatever, and scarcely any 
sulphur. An alternative is coke, which is of 
course very nearly smokeless; but it emits a 
good deal of sulphur, although the amount 
arising from so small a stove could scarcely be 
sufficient to become a nuisance.—K., J/omstn/. 

-If “ G. W.” wishes to have an efficient 

heating apparatus, and at the same time to avoid 
causing annoyance to his neighbours, let him get 
one of the independent boilets advertised in 
Gardening, and which have been so well de¬ 
scribed by “ B. W. W.,” and let him burn only 
coke and cinders, and instead of kindling with 
lire-wood and coal, let him use only a shovelful 
of live coal from the kitchen fire.—P. R. 

10828 . — Grubs eating Carnations.— 

The plants seem to be attacked by the same 
sort of maggot that eats the centre of young 
Rose shoots; a “ worm i’ the bud.” The only way 
to destroy them is by crushing with the fingers, or 
picking them out of their retreats with a needle 
or small crochet hook. Those that have the 
centres destroyed will produce flowers from side 
growths, though the said flowers will not be so 
large. The grub is bred upon the plants.—J. D. E. 

10769—Grevillea robusta.—The lower 
leaves of this plant drop as it advances in growth, 
as, naturally, it forms a low spreading tree with 
a clear stem. As the roots have pushed through 
the pot, the plant needs repotting, but not 
before April, using good loam with a little sand 
and leaf-mould. Pot firmly and give ordinary 
greenhouse treatment with exposure to the open 
air from August to mid-September.— J. Corn- 
illLL. 


10812 .— Planting vines.— If you intend to 
grow.plants fairly well under vines, the vines 
should be planted about 5 feet apart. If you 
do not care for the plants, but want to make 
the most of the vines, plant them 2 feet 9 inches 
apart. Half of the vines should be Black Ham¬ 
burgh, and the other half to be equally divided 
between Foster’s White Seedling and Royal 
Muscadine.—J. D. E. 


10836.—Fall for hot-water pipes.—If there is 
scarcely any rise the heated water from the boiler will 
circulate through the flow pipes, but it is not wise to 
make such an arrangement if it can be avoided. We would 
not care to have a leas rise than an inch in 6 feet. The 
more rise you have, the more freely will the heated 
water flow, thus saving fuel.—J. D. E. 


-Any rise, If ever so little, is acceptable, but not at 

all an absolute necessity. Avoid dipping, but have no fear 
of hot-water circulating on a level. *‘J. k. V.” could 
carry his continuation of piping from his greenhouse on 
a level to his fernery without disturbing the circulation, 
connecting at his present fall and return pipes, if that 
end is the highest point now, avoiding dipping deeper, 
making his highest point in future in fernery, with an 
escape air pipe there. Any rise he can afford would be 
acceptable.—J. G. K. 


1083*2.—Plants spindly.—As the plants flowered 
nnd did well In the summer, their present sickly 
appearance can only be accounted for by want of air, as 
the temperature, 50°, is quite high enough. Admit air 
as freely as you can during the day, and if the oven 
over which your house has been built; is heated in the 
morning, air should be admitted as early as possible.— 
J. I>. E. 


10836.— Insects In greenhouse.— As you do not | 
care to fumigate, and a few pla 
aphis, the best way is to dust 



use for this purpose a common twopenny pepper box. If 
the whole plant could be dipped in a solution of soft 
soap, and water at the rate of four ounces of soap to a 
gallon of water, every insect would bo destroyed.— 
J. D. K. 

10848.—Manure water for Tulips, &c—It is 
benellcial to the plants ; apply it weak at each alternate 
watering. It inay be applied when the pots are fairly 
well tilled with roots.—J. I). E. 

10847.— Lilies and worms.—Plant the bulbs In 
hollows scooped out in the bed nnd filled with sand to 
prevent them from touching the rich soil.—P. B. 


Heating apparatus —Milca.— Read the articles 
which have lately appeared in Gardening on the sub¬ 
ject. 

Glass for greenhouse.—Read our advertisement 
columns. 

T. II. Jones.—Not at all uncommon; wo have seen 

much better examples.- A. Howell —Try Veitch and 

Son’s Royal Exotic Nurseries, King’s Road, Chelsea. We 

do not know the price.- Arrandoon. —Read the articles 

which have lately appeared in Gardening on the sub¬ 
ject of heating. 

Auricula.—11 you will write out a brief description of 
your greenhouse, and state what you wish to grow in it, 

no doubt some of our correspondents will help you.- 

Dendron.— You would be most likely to get it at a largo 
seed shop. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents.— A ll communica, 
Hons for insertion should be clearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only aiul addressed to the Editor. 
Letters relating to business to the Publisher. The name 
and address qf the sender is required , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. A nswers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title if the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a sejxirate piece qf paper. Owing to the necessity qf 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day qf publication, it is not jxn.tible to insert queries and 
communications the roeek they are received. Queries not 
aiuneered should be sent to us again. 

Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only 
can be named at one time, and this only when gwd 
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name 
varieties of florists' flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
specialist toho has the means qf comparison at hand. Any 
communication respecting plants or flowers sent to name 
should always accompany the parcel. 

10872.—Utilising hot-water clatern.—Can any 
reader assist me with advice on this subject? The 
cistern is about 3 feet by 2 feet superflclal, and is for 
house supply. It is cased with boiler felt, a plan I 
adopted iu order to prevent loss of heat. The result is 
most satisfactory, aud I only wonder it is not generally 
adopted. The cistern is in au attic, lighted with a very 
small window. There is no ceiling, but the tiles are well 
pointed. Would it be possible to grow a few Mushrooms 
in a box over the cistern, but with no manure ? I have 
heard of Mushrooms being grown in cellars, for instance, 
where I imagine manure could not be used, and in this 
case they would get bottom-heat. If this plan is not 
feasible, could seeds, bulbs, <fec., be started iu this sort 
of hot-bed, aud when above ground removed to a frame 
without risk ? Any hints would be acceptable.—C. A. J. 

10873.—Birds and fruit buds.—Last November ox- 
eyes aud sparrows ate out almost every bud from my 
White and Red Curraut trees (on wall). The ground 
below was strewed with the brown scales off the buds. 
Now this has happened to me for several years running. 
Wonld some reader kindly give me a hint how to destroy 
my enemies, or, better still, preserve the buds? I need 
not add that, of course, there has not been a crop, and 
scarcely any growth. Hence the bushes are stunted- 
looking and ill-grown. The Gooseberry bushes are not 
allowed to go scathless, but they are not quite ruined 
like the Currant bushes. The Blackberries are not 
touched.—S coto. 

10874.—Damp In chimney.—I have a slow com¬ 
bustion stove from which 1s carried a flue, 4-inch cast 
iron piping 18 feet long into a brick chimney 10 feet high, 
with a 6-inch iron chimney on top 12 feet high. I find 
that in the chimney aud flue all the damp condenses, 
and will not allow the fire to draw. Bow can I alter it ? 
If I had earthenware drain pipes for the flue, instead of 
the iron, would it answer better, and not let the damp 
condense, or would it be best to build the stove (boiler) 
into the chimney, and so do away with the flue ?— Per¬ 
plexed. 

10875.—Pruning.—A correspondent In Gardening 
writes an article on pruning. In his article he uses the 
terms " restrictive and extension," as applied to different 
systems of pruning. To a novice like me explanation is 
wanted. Would it be too much to ask “ L. C. K.,” who 
writes the article, to contribute a further article on 
pruning, explaining the two systems ? Such au article 
would come in very opportune at this season of the year. 
—Scoto. 

10876.—Pruning Apple trees.—One of my neigh¬ 
bours having had a very fine crop of Apples this autumn, 
on trees about ten years old. has now stripped off all the 
lower branches, leaving only, as it were, a round head in 
every case. Is this a plan your professional readers 
would advise me to follow in my own case, which is a 
similar one to my neighbour's ?— Blenheim Orangs. 

10877.— Ground glass for roote — Will any 
practical man please state the advantages or otherwise 
of the use of the above for roof of greenhouses or con¬ 
servatories in which are grown chiefly evergreen climbers, 
Ferns, Palms, with few flowering plants ?—Brixton 
Amateur. 

10678.—Moving old Apple tree —Would it be 
certain destruction to a small Apple tree (Golden Pippin) 
advanced In years to remove it from one place to 
another ?—R. A. I 


1G879.—Marechal Niel Rose.— I have a Murl-chal 
Niel Rose growing in a box in my greenhouse, which is 
heated by a slow combustion stove. It is only showing 
two blooms this year, and the foltage turns yellow, and 
drops off. Will someone kindly say liow I should treat 
it ?—A. 13. & 

10680 .—Forcing Mint.—I am putting up a largd 
house for Cucumber growing, mid intend trying Mint 
forcing iu It, and should he glad to know the best way 
both as regards taking up. laying it down, «fcc. Would it 
be best near the glass ?—Anxious. 

10881.— Calla eethioplca In windows.— “ W. R. 
kindly gives Instruction as to what to do with a plant 
having flowered, so as to bloom it again. I want to 
know how to manage a new bulb, when to plant and how 
to manage ?—Vera. 

10882. — Forcing Anemone japonica.— I am 
anxious to force some plants of Anemone japonica alba. 
Will some correspondent kindly tell me when they w ould 
bloom if potted up, say, in February ; also, whether they 
do well treated In this way?—F lokum Amateur. 

10883.—Propagating Thorns and Privet.—Can 
I strike cuttings of Hawthorns and Privet, and when is 
the time to plant them ?—Rustic. 

10884.—Planting Pchizostylls coccinea.—When 
should the bulbs of this be planted to insure bloom in 
autumn and winter?—A. W. 

10885.—Maiden-hair Ferns.—My Ferns in pots are 
fading Indoors. Is it time now to cut them down and 
repot ?—Miles. 


POULTRY. 


TO THE EDITOR OF “ GARDENING.” 

Sir, 1 have read in this week’s issue the late 
experience of “ HeatLerdale ” respecting his 
poultry, and particularly notice that he is “ get¬ 
ting during the present cold weather four eggs 
a day from twenty hens.” Rather poor returns, 
I consider, from such a number of hens, if kept 
for laying purposes. I have only four pullets 
and five last year's hens (one of which being 
lately broody, and another just through the 
moult, have not laid since the end of September), 
and from November 26th- when the pullets 
started laying—up to to-day (December 28th) 
I have received 109 eggs, showing an average of 
3 3 eggs per day. To-day 1 received seven eggs. 
I seem to have about the same accommodation 
for my nine fowls as “ Heatherdale ” has for his 
twenty. I keep the roosting house very clean, 
and cover the floor with sawdust. I also keep 
the run clean, and put lime on the floor. I have 
rcof and front made of light wood shutters, 
which I can put on or take off as weather suits. 
I feed different from “ Heatherdale.” Instead 
of Spratt’s poultry meal in the mornings, I give 
warm soft food made up of barley meal, a little 
bone meal mixed when dry, and kitchen refuse 
when any ; a little sound barley about mid-day, 
and a more liberal supply of same before going 
to roost. They have a constant supply of fresh 
water. The pullets were hatched middle of 
April. They and the hens are Brahma-Dorkings. 
I shall be pleased to know if any reader has had 
snch or better results than I show, under 
similar circumstances. I must not omit that I 
turn my fowls into a kitchen garden—where there 
is part grass—two or three hours a day when 
the weather suits, and I usually have a cabbage 
or two suspended in the run. I got this wrinkle 
from this paper 1 believe. It has certainly 
stopped the habit of feather eating in my case. 

Sunderland. J. H. B. 


Cochin fowls.— Can any reader inform me the 
proper treatment for a Cochin cock, barely two years 
old, suffering from a general depression, and seeming 
also dropsical, got the gout in one foot, but eats 
hearty ? Its gills are very pale-coloured.—N. F. 

Cockatoo losing its feathers.— Can anyone 
give information respecting the treatment for a 
cockatoo losing his feathers, and showing other symptoms 
of IU health ?—Constant Reader. 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 


Nettle beer.— In answer to “ F. H. W. p ” 
to make the electuary mentioned in my recipe 
for making nettle beer at this season of the 
year, the juice must be got from the roots by 
pounding them in a mortar, or the dry roots 
must be grated. Take two ounces of the juice 
or powder, two ounces of loaf-sugar, and six 
ounces of clarified honey. The way to clarify 
the honey is to set it over a slow fire in a con¬ 
venient vessel, putting the sugar in with it. 
Watch it until the scum rises to the top; take 
this off, and then it is clarified. If you wish to 
make a more or less quantity, vary your propor¬ 
tions accordingly. The usual dose of cordial 
electuaries iu from half a drachm to two 



5^6 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED [Jan. 12, \m. 


drachms. Take in the morning, fasting, or at 
night going to bed.—j. W., Aillinr/ton. 

To make Dandelion wine —to every 
ten gallons of water add forty qoarts of Dandelion 
flowers. Boil them fifteen minutes, then strain. 
Add ten gallons more water, put throe pounds 
of loaf sugar to each gallon, together with the 
rinds of thirty-six Seville Oranges and thirty-six 
Lemons, pared thin. Mix altogether, and boil 
twenty minutes. When cool add the juice of the 
Oranges and Lemons Spread some yeast or barm 
on a piece of toasted bread,put the wine into a 
tub, then put the yeasted bread into it to work 
the wine. Put it all into a clean cask next day 
and add six pounds of raisins. Let it stand in the 
cask three months before bottling. This is an 
excellent wine to purify the blood.—G. M. 
STRATTON, Worcester. 

To make Parsnip wine. Emmie .—To 
make 10 gallons of wine, take 30 pounds of 
sliced Parsnips, and boil until quite soft in 10 
gallons of water. Squeeze the liquor well out of 
them, run it through a sieve, and add 3 pounds 
of course lump sugar to every gallon of liquor. 
Boil the whole for three quarters of an hour. 
When it is nearly cold, add a little yeast on 
toasted bread. Let it remain in a tub ten days, 
stirring it well from the bottom every day, then 
put it into a cask. Fill it up every day, as it 
works over. Let it stand twelve months, then 
bottle.— G. M. Stratton, Worcester. 


AQUARIA. 

NOTES ON A GLOBE AQUARIUM. 

The following notes on this subject, from my 
own experience, may be of interest to your 
readers. Like the majority of “ prentice hands’’ 
at aquarium keeping, my first attempts were 
attended, first, with much trouble, in changing 
the water. Sec., then with equal dissatisfaction at 
the appearance of both globe and fish, and ulti¬ 
mately with total failure; but having chanced 
to read an article in which a totally different 
system of management was advocated to that 
which I had adopted, I was again tempted to 
make an attempt. According to the instructions 
given, I procured a large wide-mouthed bell- 
glass (which was recommended in preference to 
the globes usually sold, as exposing a larger 
snrface of water to the air), and had a round 
wooden stand made for its reception, into which 
the inverted glass was fastened by the knob, 
which served as its handle. Having put in 
some well washed silver-sand and pebbles, 
I filled it with water and put it aside for the 
water to become purified by the action of 
light, producing vegetation, and this all ensued 
as described in the article referred to, the 
water gradually becoming turbid and offensive, 
and then as gradually clearing, until it was 
perfectly bright and sweet. I then introduced 
a few small roach, but the process of purifica¬ 
tion had, evidently, not been allowed to proceed 
long enough, for after a day or two, the fish all 
came to the surface, poking their noses out of 
the water, and gasping for breath. These I re¬ 
moved, and another period of rest was given to 
the globe, when, considering the water was 
sufficiently oxygenised, I introduced two minnows, 
two gudgeons, and a newt. These appeared 
perfectly healthy and at home, the water re¬ 
maining perfectly clear, and the fish showing no 
signs of difficult respiration. This state of 
things continued for some time, when one morn¬ 
ing I found the two minnows dead on the 
carpet. At the time I was at a loss to account 
for this, but I have since come to the conclusion 
that they were driven to leap from the water 
by the gudgeons, for having procured two small 
gold-fish, they were so persecuted by these 
pugnacious little gentry, that one died from the 
effects of attacks. 

I then removed the gudgeons, and the gold 
fish and newt now remain in undisturbed posses¬ 
sion of the globe. The water is never changed 
(a little being occasionally added to replace loss 
by evaporation) and is always clear. I have a 
small plant of Yallisneria spiralis growingin the 
sand and pebbles, and feed the newt with a small 
worm once a week, and the gold fish with bread 
crumbs and prepared ants' eggs. I intend to 
add to my live stock shortly, and to all intending 
to set up an aquarium, whether as a globe or in 
a larger form, I would recommend this plan, as 
with a little patience in the first instance, to 
allow the wgte* to purify itself, and become 

Go gle 


capable of sustaining life, it is certain of success, 
and.saves the infinite amount of trouble con¬ 
sequent on changing the water, and removing 
and re-arranging the contents of the glqbe. 

Ed. Beard. 


Bees and snow.— When snow falls, I 
always throw ground charcoal all over the snow 
for 2 feet back from my bee hives. When the 
sun shines, the charcoal presents the reflection 
glaring into the holes of the hives. I have found 
it a good plan as an amateur.—D. H. S. 


RATS AND MICE IN GARDENS. 

The common small water-rat is considered a 
harmless little animal that usually confines his 
operations to the margins of ditches or smal 
running streams; but, like all the species, he is 
endowed with a considerable amount of cunning, 
and, I fancy, he is sometimes guilty of com¬ 
mitting depredations for which he is held blame¬ 
less. I was looking in a neighbour's garden the 
other day when my attention was called to his 
Broccoli and Winter Greens; the bark was in 
many cases completely eaten off all round the 
stems, in some instances the stems were nearly 
eaten through, and of course most of them will 
die. The mischief was done by water-rats that 
had entered^ his garden from a watercourse 
near. I remember a somewhat similar circum¬ 
stance, which for a short time puzzled me 
exceedingly, occurring in a garden I had charge 
of in Norfolk. Many of the Winter Greens had 
been barked, and in some instances the stems 
eaten quite through at the bottom, whilst the 
only indications of the presence of any enemy in 
the immediate neighbourhood were two or three 
small hills, not unlike mole hills, which, on 
examination, were found to be connected with 
an old mole run. I at first thought the mole, 
contrary to his usual custom, bad become a 
vegetarian, and several traps were placed in 
spots most favourable for capturing him; but, 
in the course of a day or two, two of the small 
water-voles or rats were caught. They had by 
some means found their way into an old mole 
run, and had followed it up for a distance of 
200 yards, until they burst through the soft 
earth in the kitchen garden. I was not sorry 
to find I had unjustly accused the mole; for, 
were it not for his disposition to overturn seed 
beds, I should look upon him rather as a friend 
than as an enemy. I think, for his size, there 
is no animal so savage and voracious as 
the common Norway rat; and, if allowed to 
become numerous, the damage they do, both to 
garden and farm produce, is immense. They 
are often very destructive to ripe fruit, are 
especially good judges of Grapes, and, either 
from their acute sense of smell or from the 
possession of some wonderful instinct, they 
always attack the best-flavoured fruit first. If 
choice hothouse fruit is not to be had, they will 
be content with Gooseberries or even Morello 
Cherries, but in all cases I will guarantee they 
will take the best within their reach of both 
fruit and vegetables. Many different plans 
have been suggested and described for their 
destructiom, both in the way of traps and poisons ; 
but in dealing with poisons some experience in 
their manipulation is necessary in order to be 
successful. The best rat-killer I ever knew was 
a Norfolk man. His mode of proceeding was 
simple enough; but the materials he used, and 
his way of dealing with them, was a trade secret 
which he would not divulge. When he first 
looked round a place invested with rats he 
selected his feeding places, and fed them regu¬ 
larly for about a week or eight dayB. The food 
was usually barley or oatmeal, flavoured with 
something to make it especially attractive to 
the rats, and it was always used in a dry state. 
I have seen them running about in the evening, 
just before feeding time, if not quite tame, at 
least divested of most of that fierceness of dis¬ 
position common to rat nature, waiting for his 
coming. When he thought he had drawn all 
the rats together, he laid down the poison, 
which, as far as appearance went, differed in 
no respect from the food he had given them 
previously, and it was a rare circumstances when 
he failed to get rid of all. Of course, where 
rats are not numerous, they may be got rid of 
by carefully stopping all holes in buildings 
with cement, trapping or snaring them in their 
runs, and afterwards filling up their holes in 
the banks or hedges where they come from 


with broken glass, or some material they don’t 
like to work amongst. I have seen phosphorotu 
used for destroying rats with a fair amount of 
success ; it is mixed with flour and sugar in the 
follov/ing proportions i a quarter of an ounce of 
disolved phosphorous, half pound of sugar, and 
the same quantity of flour, made into a paste 
with water, and formed into pills. When made, 
the pills should be kept from light and air, to 
avoid loss of strength, and be placed at night 
in the holes or any place which the rats frequent. 
If not placed in the rats' holes they will be 
safer if laid behind a board or slate, to prevent 
poultry or anything else picking them up. 
There is no difficulty in getting poison that will 
kill rats; the only difficulty is to induce them 
to eat it. Mice, in their small way, are in some 
places nearly as destructive as rats; but where 
a good cat or two can be kept, that is the best 
way of keeping them down. In game-preserving 
districts it is nearly impossible to keep a cat 
as they will wander off after the game; and in 
places where the natural enemies of the mice 
and rats, such as stoats, weasles, hawks, Ac., are 
all destroyed, traps and poison must be resorted 
to almost continually. The common figure of 4 
trap is the very best for setting iu the open air, 
baiting sometimes with a soaked bean, at other 
times, by way of a change, with hard toasted 
cheese or a bit of fat meat. The very best 
mousetrap for buildings is 1'uUinger’s patent: 
I have used no other for several years. It re¬ 
quires no setting, and not often baiting; it is 
not liable to get out of order, and, with care 
will last many years. I have often caught two 
mice at a time ; and, no matter how many are 
caught,fif the trap be cleaned sometimes, and 
a little fresh grease placed in the part of the 
trap they first enter, they never seem to get shy 
or afraid of entering it. It generally happens 
with the majority of mousetraps that when you 
have caught two or three the others suspect 
there is something wrong, and will not go rear 
it.—H. 


■DEACHEY’S LILIES OP THE VALLEY, 

" Giant Berlin variety, magnificent crowns, flower early 
Is. 6d. dozen; fifty, 4 a 6d.; 100, 8a. 6<L ; free,-R W. 
BEAOHEY. Kingakerswell. 


■REACHEY’S POLYANTHUS.-Real riant*; 

" white, yellow, crimson, maroon, laced. Small plank 
li. 6<L dozen; very largo, 3 b 6d. dozen, free. Seed, fin*! 
quality, 6d. and Is. packet.—Kingakerswell, Devonshire. 


■DEACHEY’S BEGONIA SEED.-All who saw 

" my plants in bloom said that they were unequalled 
Finest double, warranted. 2 b. 6<L and 5s. packet; finest single, 
every Colour represented, Ib., Is. 6<L, 2s, 6d. packet. Sov 
from December to May. Instructions printed on each pacta- 
—Kingakerswell, Devonshire. 


REACHEY’S CHRYSANTHEMUMS.-Cut- 

tings, splendid collection, Incurved, Japanese, Pompoue, 
Is. 2d. dozen : rooted plants, 2e. 6d. dozen, free.—E W. 
BEAOHEY, Kingakerswell, Devonshire. 

"REACHEY'S ROSES.—Twelve pew and selwt 

■U varieties, including Helen Paul. Ulrich Brunner. Violet* 
Bouyer 12s. free; strong plants. List.—R. W. BKACUEY, 
Kingakerswell, Devonshire 

■REACHE YS SWEET VIOLETS.-Fm*t 

collection in England. Catalogue, with direction tit 
culture, free.—Kingakerswell, Devon. 

"REACHEY’S PANSIES.—Finest named show 
LJ and fancy, 3a $d. dozen. 8eed, superb quality, la ,1a M, 
2a. (kl. packet. Bedding Violas and Pansies, pUnt-s.li M- 
dozen. Seed, all colours, 6d. and Is. packet All kindsflowrr 
see ds.—R. W. BEAOHEY, Kingakerswell. Devon. _ 

THE CO VENT GARDEN SEEDS.-Send for 
J- Hooper's Catalogue, (Illustrated). 

THE BEST VEGETABLE SEEDS.—Send for 
-A Hoop er's Catalogue, (Illnitrated). 
fPHE CHOICEST FLOVYKR^SEDDsT-Se^ 
A for HOOPER'S CATALOGUE (IHo,lr»t«i). 

L OVV PRICES AND CARRIAGE FREE—■*' 
HOOPER S CATALOGUE (Illustrated). 

HARDENERS AND AMATEURS.—Semi for 

V J HOOPERS CATALOG UE ( Illustrat ed). 


TOVERS OF GLADIOLI. - See HOOPER* 

-U Catalogue, ILLU3TRATED IN 


► IN COLOURS- 


ITOOPER'S CATALOGUE, price 4d„ whicha 

-Li- returned iu the first purchase— HOOPEE # 00-. 
Covent Garden, London _ __ <j 

T° HE LET, for a term of years, large Gli*‘ 

-L houses, Gardens, Cottage, and Orchard in BaiwK 
near three watering places. More land may be had. ted I* 
a tenant willing to invest, advantageous term* will 
offered.—Apply to Mr. GEORGE SHULDON. AbriJff- 
Easei. _• 


TWrUSHROOM SPAWN, beat quality, 4? <*!• . 

per bushel of 20 bricks; two bricks post free taw* , '‘- 
with notes on culture; trade price very low.—J. HU 1 "** 
H unbury Lane, Walton-on-Tham es___ 

OARRIAGE FREE —Novelties. andaUvarie- 
V/ ties Garden and Flower Seeds, best quality, *erf 
12 Gladioli, Is. 4d.; collections, 12 named, 3i„ 4 » ■ ^ ? ' 1 ; 

7s. 6d. The cheapest in tho trade. Carnations, PteWT? 
twelve named, 7a.; six, 3s. Gd., free. Lists free.-D• 
Seedsman, Irvine. 


7 S. y/ e S 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. V. 


JANUARY 19, 1884. 


No. 254. 


HORSE AND WINDOW GARDENING. 

TUBEROUS TROP-EOLUMS. 

It La seldom that a climbing plant can be 
thoroughly recommended for indoor work, but 
where there is a spare east window to be found 
in a cool, airy room, a special feature may be 
made, and charming effects produced by well- 
trained specimens of the three coloured Trophy- 
llower (Tropicolum tricolorum), which, with one 
or two more of its South American companions, 
is so well adapted to window culture that a 
few notes on the different species suitable for 
this purpose may possibly be helpful and in¬ 
teresting. By having a light movable trellis of 
line wire netting, or by straining single wires 
from slight iron rods fixed at the oomers,these ele¬ 
gant climbers have been so grown as to festoon 
the inner framework of a window with their 
graceful leafage and countless brilliant flowers. 
A considerable number of tubers must be at 
disposal, however, to carry out this somewhat 
ambitious arrangement, but a single root grown 
in a 6-inch pot is one of the most easily managed 
of window plants, and one of the most interest¬ 
ing. There is now no more familiar flower 
than the commonNaBturtium; but almost the first 
notice that we find of any of the species is by Par¬ 
kinson, one of the fathers of English gardening 
in the early part of the seventeenth century, who 
writes with enthusiasm about the small-flowered 
Nasturtium (T. minus), the only Bpecies then 
known, as a plant “ of so great beauty and 
sweetness with all, that his garden of delights 
cannot be unfurnished of it." This was, how¬ 
ever, soon Bupplanted by the still more showy 
large-flowered Nasturtium (T, majus), the origin 
of our numerous garden hybrids, which, if 
memory serves aright, received the English title 
of Indian Cress from Gerard, the famous old 
herbalist of Holborn, from the pungent smell 
and taste of its leaves, flowers, and seeds, which 
in this respect are not unlike 'Watercress. Later 
on, to avoid confusion with Nasturtium (onr 
Watercress), the name was changed to Tropaj- 
olum, from the supposed likeness of the 
flower to a “ warlike trophy,” and as it now 
stands we are left free to choose for our familiar 
vocabulary the name which best commends 
itself to our fancy, either from the shield-like 
leaves and helmet-shaped flowers, or from the 
Cress-like taste which more or less distinguish 
all members of the family. It is somewhat 
strange that more of the smaller-flowered 
but singularly beautiful tuberous and peren¬ 
nial species, which are mostly native to 
the same countries, should have been so long in 
reaching our gardens. These are found in abun¬ 
dance in mountainous districts in the Peruvian 
and Chilian Andes, where they run over the 
bushy thickets and hedges, much in the way of 
our own British climbing Corydalis (C. clavi- 
culata), to which they are in some degree similar 
in habit. Five species only were known at the 
beginning of this century, and amongst these 
was our old favourite, the Canary Creeper, or 
fringe-flowered Indian Cress, as it was then 
called (T. aduncum), but during the last fifty 
years many beautiful species have been sent 
home, most of them “ trophies,” at any rate, of 
the botanical zeal and perseverance of Mr. 
Lobb, who collected them in their native habitats 
for the late Mr. Veiteh, of Exeter—a name, past 
and present, to which all gardeners stand much 
indebted. It is to three of these that I wish 
to call especial attention, as they are suitable 
for companion plants, and may all he grown, 
■when attainable, under the same treatment 
(except in one particular to be noticed pre¬ 
sently) and circumstances. Of these, 

TBOPAIOLUM TRICOLORUM, 
the tricoloured Trophy flower, is the oldest 
and best known, and is found on the hills near 
Valparaiso. It flowered for the first time, as I 
believe, in March, 1832, in the Botanical Gar¬ 
dens in Edinburgh, Soon after its introduction 
it became a popular plant, and was grown to 
great perfection by those whom we should now 
call old-fashioned gardeners, with whom also it 
•was a favourite exhibition plant. For some 
reason, however, this popularity waned—it came 

Digitized by GOUgle 


to be reckoned a difficult plant to bloom—and, 
except here and there, in some neglected corner 
of a greenhouse, it was rarely to be met with, 
and still more rarely to be found in good con¬ 
dition. But it lingered on, nevertheless, in the 
windows of a few plant-lovers, who grew it with 
more or less skill, and it is now twenty years or 
more since I made acquaintance with it to my 
great pleasure in just such a position—placed 
on a window-sill and growing in a pot with a 
light “ treillage ” of simple home manufacture, 
which it covered to perfection with its dainty 
leafage and pendant scarlet flowers. From time 
to time, interesting notices of the successful 
treatment of this charming Tropseolum have ap¬ 
peared in the leading gardening journals, and 
within the last year or two its popularity 
has once more revived, a sure sign of this being 
that, whereas the tubers used to be priced in 
catalogues at 5s. and 3s. Gd. each, they can 
now be obtained at Is. Gd. This moderate cost 
brings it more within reach of window gardeners, 
who, as a rule, are not able to indulge in many 
plant luxuries, and it is also one of those tubers 
the perennial duration and steady increase of 
which make the purchase a good investment, as 
surplus stock can always be exchanged with 
brother gardeners. T. tricolorum appears under 
the names of T. Jarratti and T. grandiflorum, but, 
as far as my experience goes, they are scarcely 
distinct enough to warrant the adoption of dis¬ 
tinctive names, and it seems to be probable that 
they are merely varieties raised from seed, which 
all the genus ripen freely under favourable con¬ 
ditions. It has been suggested that T. Jarratti, 
may be distinguished from T. tricolorum by a 
difference in the shape of the tubers. That there 
is a remarkable difference is true—some being 
quite round and others long and pointed, but, 
in my own case, all were the produce of a single 
tuber obtained may years ago. This is a curious 
fact, and one for which, I believe, no satisfactory 
reason has yet been found; but no one unaware 
of it could possibly guess that the tubers be¬ 
longed to the same plant, and even the expe¬ 
rienced eye of a botanist might easily be de¬ 
ceived. Several methods for speedy multiplica¬ 
tion of the tubers have been suggested, snch as 
pegging down the stem, and covering with soil, 
which will cause the production of a new tuber; 
but unless quick increase is greatly desired, 
the stock will be found to double and even treble 
itself every season without further trouble. 
Cuttings, however, are hard to strike, and are 
scarcely worth trying. The next on my list is 

TROr.fiOI.UM BRACHYCKRA8, 

the short-spurred Trophy flower. This pretty 
Bpecies is almost identical in habit and foliage 
with the preceding, but its flowers are yellow, 
and instead of being tubular, resemble more 
nearly, but in minatnre, those of the hardy 
trailing Trophy flower (T. polyphyllum). In 
its native country, abont Valparaiso and Santiago, 
this delicate yellow flowered species is said to be 
one of the most common, and it is there called 
the Partridge flower; but it has never been so 
well known in our gardens as the tri-coloured 
Tropteolam, to which, however, it makes an 
appropriate companion, as it requires exactly 
the same treatment and blooms at the same 
time. Tubers of this species are named in some 
of the catalogues, though they are a little more 
expensive than those of T. tricolorum, but it is 
well worth a trial by those who wish to grow 
pretty and interesting plants not to be met with 
every day. The third species, 

TEOP-fiOLUM AZUREUM, 

the blue Trophy flower, must be spoken of 
with a little more hesitation, as some people 
have found it difficult to bloom at all, and the 
best dark blue variety is not always easy to get. 
It is also much more expensive than the other 
two. Still I cannot forbear from joining it with its 
congeners, because, not only can it be grown 
Bucessfully, but it is also so delicately beautiful 
as to be a subject of pride when the difficulties 
are conquered. 

This species is remarkable besides, in another 
aspect. Tropseolums of all shades of yellow, 
orange, brown, scarlet, and crimson are familiar 


to us, but where these colours prevail, it is not 
often that a blue member of the family is found. 
Hence, perhaps, the great desire to produce a 
blue Rose and a blue Dahlia. A blue Tropsco- 
lum, consequently, was a “ trophy” indeed, 
which its discoverer was, doubtless, proud to Bend 
home. This plant is always associated in my 
memory—as plants will be—with an historic 
spet; Gilbert White’s garden, at Selborne, where 
I first saw it in the possesion of one now passed 
away—Professor Bell—who assured me that 
there was no greater difficulty in his experience 
in blooming this species than the better known 
T. tricolorum Yet it can scarcely be said to 
be so vigorous as either of those just mentioned, 
as it seldom reaches a greater height than five or 
six feet—though this, indeed, may be due to 
some fault of culture—whereas it is probable 
that the other two, all measured, would give 
a length of some fifteen or twenty feet. All the 
species branch freely and must never be topped, 
which would not only be needless, but hurtful. 

Culture. 

There are three points of culture to which 
special attention should be given :— 

1. The time for repotting the tubers is a 
matter of more moment than may be supposed. 
After the experience of some years, I confidently 
recommend that this should be done as soon as 
possible after the foliage dies down, and never 
later than the middle of July. And for this reason. 
After the plants have lost their beauty, the pots 
are generally consigned to some out of the way 
corner. Some cultivators indeed, more careful, 
shake out the tubers, and, wrapping each one in 
paper, put them away in a dry resting place 
until planting time comes round. This is 
variously spoken of as September—late autumn 
—or even spring, but it invariably happens that 
the tubers take the matter under their own con¬ 
trol, and send out, not always at precisely the 
same season, a tiny, wire-like shoot, which once 
set a-going grows with great rapidity, and is so 
fine and dark coloured, that it is very easy to in¬ 
jure it before it is perceived at all, and next to 
impossible to repot the tuber without rubbing it 
off altogether. When this happens, the plant is 
thrown back many weeks before it starts afresh; 
therefore it is better to make a rule of repotting 
the tubers (bnt not before the foliage haR 
naturally completed its growth and withered 
quite away) in the summer in somewhat dry 
soil, keeping the pots under cover until the 
shoot appears, when the pot or pots may have a 
good watering. This plan does not shorten 
the resting season to any hartful degree, and 
answers extremely well. 

2. These Tropaiolumg seldom thrive well in 
the heated atmosphere of the ordinary warm 
greenhouse. From the hilly stations in which 
they are naturally found, we may gather that a 
eool and somewhat moist atmosphere is best 
suited to their wants, and the earlier in the year 
they can be induced to bloom, the more chance 
of the flowering season being prolonged, and the 
greater their value. Failure in their cultivation 
is generally occasioned by growing .them in too 
high a temperature. If the tubers start in 
August, the plants will begin to bloom in 
February, at which early season they are most 
acceptable additions to our early flowering 
plants, whether we grow them in a window or in 
a greenhouse from which frost is excluded. 
Frost they will not stand, but a temperature 
never rising above 45°, or at most 50°, nor 
falling below 38°, just suits them. They are 
impatient of too much sunshine, which Boon 
spoils their bloom, and should be partly shaded, 
and it is for this reason that when grown in the 
house an east window suits them best, where 
they get the morning sunshine and shade in the 
after part of the day. My plants never 
suoceeded better than when I grew them thus 
in an east window, removing them when in 
bloom to an nnheated conservatory. To keep 
the roots cool and at a uniform degree of 
moisture, it will be found of great advantage to 
use double pots. 

3. The last point specially to be insisted upon, 
is the free drainage of the pots. The fibres.tent 
out by the tubers are very fine and delicate. 








522 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Jan. 19, 1884. 


taking up little room, and if several are placed 
in a large pot, a very large proportion of the 
apace should be taken up with charcoal (the best 
draining material for these plants), and the 
rough fibrous portions of the peat placed above 
it. The soil for T. tricolorum and T. brachyceras 
should consist of peat, leaf.mould, and loam, 
with a considerable admixture of sand. T. 
azureum should be potted in sandy peat alone, 
in which its treatment differs from that of the 
others. The effect of stagnant moisture at the 
roots becomes apparent at once in the sickly 
look of the foliage—the plants refusing to grow, 
and speedily dying away altogether. Therefore, 
whether single tubers are grown in small pots or 
many together, the drainage is of the first 
importance. 

Training. 

The more natural the training of these pretty 
climbers the better, and it is a matter of some 
slight difficulty. The first part of the Bhoot 
always remains dark coloured and wiry, pro 
ducing but few leaves ; but as it lengthens, it 
also thickens to a remarkable degree. The 
training should, therefore, begin at the earliest 
moment, and should be kept as low as possible 
until leaves are freely produced, otherwise a 
bare look at the bottom of the trellis can 
scarcely be avoided. Tubers of two years old 
and upwards flower the best, but smaller ones 
should be placed,Jwhen possible, in the same pot, 
for the sake of the leafage. Whatever trellis or 
support may be chosen, it should be placed in 
position as soon as or before the tubers start 
into growth. In some cases, the top of a dead 
bush with slender branching twigs is used, and 
with very good and natural effect when entirely 
covered with the climber, and the clasping leaf¬ 
stalks take very kindly to this simple support; 
but, as a general rule, some arrangement of 
wire is preferred. For the window gardener 
these tuberous Tropseolnms are particularly 
suitable, from the comparatively short time 
they require to complete their season's growth, 
after which they are not cumbersome to store 
away until they start afresh. For the green¬ 
house from which frost only is excluded, no 
plants can be better adapted; and the plant 
lover who has not yet tried them will do well 
to take up these dainty little climbers as a 
speciality, and there is small fear of his being 
disappointed. K. L. T). 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


Ten-week Stocks. —The seed may be 
sown at any time from February to the end of 
April, but, as a rule, the earlier the better. Sow 
in pans or boxes of light, rich soil, scattering 
the seeds thinly and evenly (about four to the 
square inch is sufficiently thick), cover very 
lightly with fine soil, and give a gentle watering; 
after which place the boxes or pans under hand- 
lights or in a frame close to the glass. Keep 
close and shaded for a few days, and when the 
young plants come up, gradually admit air on 
fine, warm days. Prick out to strengthen as soon 
as the young plants can be handled, in pots, and 
place under hand-lights or in a frame close to 
the glass; shade from strong sun, and when es¬ 
tablished give plenty of air on fine days. Plant 
out about the end of April or beginning of May, 
in good rich soil, 1 foot or 18 inches apart in 
groups, beds, Ac., as required. It is an excellent 
plan to pot up a score or so and grow on in small 
pots; these are very handy when coming into 
tlower to replace any with single blooms which 
have shown on the borders and been removed. 
For succession sow in April or May under hand- 
lights, or in a sheltered place on a warm border, 
and plant out when ready. In planting out, 
select, if possible, warm, showery weather, and 
keep the plants well shaded and watered for a 
few days. A few sown in July and grown in 
pots will make nice plants for the greenhouse or 
conservatory in winter. In planting out seedlings 
of Ten-week and other Stocks, it is customary 
with many to plant only the strongest and throw 
away the weaker as useless. This should never 
be done, as the weaker and smaller plants of a 
batch of seedlings almost invariably produce a 
large percentage of double flowers, and the “fine 
plants,” which will be found to have coarse and 
forked roots, will be but too often found to pro¬ 
duce but single flowers. If care is therefore 
taken to select in preference plants of a medium 
size, and having a nice tuft of fine fibrous roots, 


a much larger percentage of double flowers will 
be the result than if the plants are put out one 
and all indiscriminately, or the strongest only 
are selected. 


COMMON AND SWEET-SCENTED 
COLTSFOOTS. 

There is such a resemblance between these 
two plants as regards foliage and style of growth 
that one may be easily mistaken for the other, 
but while one is a desirable plant to have a little 
of in a garden, the other is a troublesome weed, 
difficult to extirpate when once a foothold has 
been obtained. Everybody knows the common 
Coltsfoot (Tussilago Farfara) met with on road¬ 
sides and in waste places, but the sweet-scented 
Coltsfoot, or, to use its more appropriate name. 
Winter Heliotrope, is not so well known, though 
just at the present time there is not a more fra¬ 
grant plant in the outdoor garden, or one that is 
better able to brave our worst winters. It is 
chiefly for the delightful vanilla-like perfume of 
its flowers that it is desirable, a few cut heads of 
its bloom being sufficient to scent a good-sized 
room. Though its foliage so mush resembles 



Common Coltsfoot (Tussilago Farfara), 

that of the common wayside Coltsfoot, its bloom 
is quite different, as may be seen by the annexed 
illustrations. In the common kind the flowers 
are Daisy-like and bright yellow, while in the 
scented one several flower-heads are gathered into 
a dense cluster, which is pale lilac and purple. 
This floral arrangement is common to the genus 
Petasites, to which the plant belongs, though 
besides being known botanically as P. fragrans, 
it is synonymous with Tussilago fragrans and 
Nardosmia fragrans. Like the common Colts¬ 
foot it has creeping underground stems, but the 
plant may otherwise be distinguished by its 
much deeper green than that of T. Farfara. It 
is, moreover, evergreen, while the common Colts¬ 
foot is deciduous. It is a native plant, but, as 
already remarked, its flowers are so welcome in 
the depth of winter that an odd corner should 
be allotted to where convenient, so that a few 
of its sweet-scented blossoms may be cut to mix 
with other flowers. Care must, however, be 
taken not to allow it to take root in any choice 
border, for it is a difficult plan to eradicate, its 
underground stems spreading rapidly and 
widely. A dry bank where little else would 
grow might profitably be devoted to the Winter 
Heliotrope, and if the soil is of a strong loamy 
character, it will produce luxuriant foliage by 
no means unhandsome throughout the year.—G. 

The Verbena. —The decreasing popularity 
of the Verbena is due, I think, to the neglect it 
has received at the hands of those who have 


boogie 


attempted to grow it. If the same i_ 

were bestowed upon it as is given to most bed¬ 
ding plants, the result would be a magnificent 
display of bloom of almost every shade of 
colour. As now is the time for securing Beeds 
I would advise those who intend growing them 
to purchase a packet of Verbena seed of a good 
strain from some reliable firm, and sow at once, 
in a brisk heat. Seedlings invariably produce 
much finer trusses and individual flowers than 
plants produced from cuttings. I saw a bed of 
seedlings grown by Mr. R. Mann (who is one of 
the most successful amateur exhibitors in York, 
shire) last summer, and they were simply 
gorgeous, there scarcely beiog two similar 
varieties in the whole bed. The numerous first 
prizes which have been awarded to him have 
been won by seedling flowers. The soil should 
be thoroughly enriched with well decomposed 
stable manure, and the plants should be kept 
supplied with water if the weather be dry. 
Those who grow for exhibition will, of coarse, 
keep the plants well thinned of shoots and 
bloom, and will also use some light material for 
shading from the mid-day sun, and for protection 
against heavy rains. As the Verbena is a gross 
feeder, frequent doses of liquid mannre 
should be given. As I am a great lover 
of this flower, I thought that a few re¬ 
marks made in its favour might induce 
lovers of flowers who have discarded it 
to give it one more trial; and should they 
give to it that attention of which I am 
sure it is worthy, they will be amply re¬ 
paid.—R. M., Shadwell. 

10837.— Plants under treee.-Of 
the plants mentioned. Periwinkles, Ber- 
beris aquifolium, St. John’s Wort, and tree 
Box, are the most suitable. They will 
thrive even in dense shade, but we do 
not think that Weigelas and Dogwood 
would prove satisfactory; they would 
grow where they were only partially 
shaded, but they like plenty of light and 
sun, and will not flower unless they get 
it. They would be suitable for the edge 
of the wood, or where a little “ clearing" 
or some open space exists. Rhododen¬ 
drons, especially the common ponticnm, 
grow luxuriously in shade, as do Hollies, 
the common Yew, and the common and 
Portugal Laurels. All these will thrive 
in ordinary soil, the great point being to 
well break the ground to a depth of 21 
feet before planting, making, for a strong 
growing plant like the Laurel or Rho¬ 
dodendron, a hole about three feet 
square. Once established they are sure to 
do well, as they get in time well dressed 
with the dead leaves from the trees above 
them. The Hemlock Spruce is, too, u 
excellent tree for undergrowth. Peri¬ 
winkles may be planted 3-feet apart, as 
they soon cover the soil; St. John's Wort 
2 feet apart, tree Box 3-feet apart, alio 
Berberis aquifolium, the remainder to be set 
from 6 feet to 8 feet apart. Planting may be 
done now when the weather is mild.— J. C. B. 

Candytufts. —Candytufts have longranked 
amongst the most popular of annuals, Lr 
they are very hardy, robust in growth, and re¬ 
markably free blooming plants. From the 
Purple Candytuft and what is known as the 
White Rocket, by dint of careful selection, 
several improved kinds have been obtained. The 
purple variety has been subdivided into lilsc. 
purple, and rose, all of which, when true to 
character, sire very pretty, but they have a 
tendency to revert to the original type. The 
finest selection is the crimson. The carmine 
variety supplies a colour until recently unknown 
among Candytufts. The white Candytufts sre 
also very effective, especially the best form o ' 
the Rocket Candytuft. Seed may be sown in 
autumn in light, warm, rich soil, and sufficiently , 
thinned out early in spring, or they may M 
sown in Bpring as early as possible. They mmj 
have good soil if they are to be effective, and 
they must be thinned out at the proper time aro ; 
attended to a little as they make growth. Bwf 
are scarcely early enough to flower in ordinal ,, 
spring gardens, but in the open border where . 
they can be sown in large patches they for® ^ 
bright spots in May and June. Sown in pok , 
too, and placed in a sunny window, they m*** k 

a fine display of blossom during spring and early 
summer.—E, « 

JIVERSltY OF ILLINOIS AT <! 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN P 



Jan. 19, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


523 


Sowing Carnations and Plootees 

—Sow in March or April in pans of rich soil, 
scattering the seeds thinly, and covering to the 
depth of about 1 inch, and place under glass, 
Prick ont on well-prepared nursery beds to 
strengthen, when the young plants have made 
four or five leaves, and plant out in September 
where intended to bloom, or pot up for the 
greenhouse. Those remaining in the open 
ground should have the benefit of a slight pro¬ 
tection in severe weather, and be planted in a 
warm and dry position. A first class strain of 
seed will produce at least eighty per cent, of 
fine double flowers, and the choicer varieties 
should be set aside for propagation by layering 
or cuttings.—W. 

Belladonna Lilies. — To ensure these 
blooming, they must be planted in a bed by 
themselves in a warm situation. Dig the bed 
nearly 3 feet deep, put at the bottom well-rotted 
manure mixed with mould <1 inches deep; upon 
that lay to the depth of 1J feet of loam or com¬ 
mon garden mould, leaf-mould, peat, and sand 
in equal proportions, then place the bulbs nearly 
6 inches apart and fill up with the above com¬ 
post to the surface of the bed. The crown of 
the bulbs ought to be about 5 inches below the 
Burface to secure them from frost.—A. H. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


GREENHOUSE RHODODENDRONS. 
What are commonly known as greenhouse 
Rhododendrons, viz., the various hybrids 
belonging to the Princess Royal section, might 
be with truth described as perpetual flowerers, 
for where numbers of them are grown they are 
seldom without flowers if kept in a somewhat 
higher temperature than that of an ordinary 
greenhouse. Although they will exist therein, 
they neither grow nor flower so freely as when 
kept during the winter in a temperature of from 
50° to 60°. Although, however, their blooming 
season extends over such a long period of time, 
the greater number of their beautiful Sowers 
are produced during the autumn and winter 
months, and, owing to that circumstance, they 
are especially valuable. If the atmosphere of 
the house is not too heavily surcharged with 
moisture the blossoms will remain in good con¬ 
dition for at least a fortnight. They do not 
appear to have any particular season of growth. 
If kept in the temperature just named young 
shoots are even produced more or less through¬ 
out the winter. These Rhododendrons also 
possess the merit of flowering freely in a small 
state, as when only in 4-inch, 5-inch, or 6-inch 
pots every shoot will frequently be terminated 
by a head of blossoms. Not only, too, do they 
flower when small, but, being naturally of a 
short bushy habit, they are well suited for 
structures where more vigorous kinds would 
soon outgrow the space allotted to them. The 
beautiful kinds raised by Messrs. Veitch give us 
great variety in the way of colour, some of the 
latest hybrids being very striking in that respect. 
The varieties of this type which I grow, all of 
which are very distinct, consist of the following, 
viz.. Princess Royal, a rich pink-flowered kind, 
one of the oldest and still unsurpassed in its 
colour, that is, when a good form of it is obtained, 
but I find that plants of it vary a good deal in 
the tint of their blossoms, probably owing to 
some having been raised from seed. Princess 
Alexandria is pure white at first, but after being 
expanded a few days becomes slightly suffused 
with blush; Duchess of Teck is a light buff 
yellow, shaded with roBe; Duchess of Edinburgh, 
bright orange crimson, a very brilliant coloured 
and effective flower; Taylori, rich pink with 
white tube ; this is quite distinct from Princess 
Royal. £ asides these hybrids the beautiful pure 
white jasminitlorum is well entitled to a place 
in any collection; in continuous blooming 
qualities it ranks with the best of its class. 

Thk soil in which I find these Rhododen¬ 
drons to do well is good fibrous peat, with a 
liberal admixture of silver sand and some pieces 
of charcoal, their size varying with that of the 
plants. For those in 10-inch pots pieces as large 
as one's thumb may be used with advantage; 
while for those in fi-inch pots they should not be 
larger than beans. The partiality of the roots for 
the charcoal may be seen by the way in which 
they envelop it. The best time to pot is as soon as 
the plants are out of floweu aad as most of them 
are in that stage during tfrVjrly sun met, 


no better season could be selected for the general 
potting. Be sure that the pots are thoroughly 
clean and well drained ; then pot firmly, and do 
not bury the stems deeper than before. For small 
plants annual repotting is necessary, but when 
larger they may remain some time undisturbed. 
At al l times overpottingmust be strictly guarded 
against. The only insect pests that trouble 
these Rhododendrons are thrips, and they are 
easily kept down by the use of the syringe, 
which will also benefit the plants. 

Propagation may be effected by means of 
cuttings, grafts, or seeds; but I like cuttings 
best. They should consist of the young growth, 
taken off when in a half-ripened condition. As 
the shoot is formed of a tuft of leaves with a 
certain amount of bare stem below, cut it off 
at its base, that is immediately above the next 
cluster of foliage ; in this way the whole of the 
young growth will be removed. Roots are pro¬ 
duced more freely from the base of the young 
shoot than if taken off half-way up. Such 
being the case, if the shoot is not too long, 
leave it in its entirety, but if it is more than 
6 inches it should be shortened, and in that 
case a long slanting cut gives a larger rooting 
surface than a horizontal one. The cuttings 



Winter Heliotrope (Petasites fragrans). 

may be put singly in small pots, which should 
be filled with peat, sand, charcoal, and crocks, 
the two latter broken very small. If put in a 
close case in a temperature some few degrees 
higher than that in which they have been grow¬ 
ing, roots will soon be produced, when air must 
be given by degrees, and the young plants 
hardened off. In this way if attention be paid 
to stopping in their early stages, dwarf plants 
may be produced, without the bare stem com¬ 
mon to those that are grafted. Grafting cer¬ 
tainly possesses one great advantage, inasmuch 
as small shoots that would not be large enough 
for cuttings may be grafted ; therefore for the 
newer kinds it is commonly employed. Side 
grafting is the method generally employed, and 
as the older variety, Princess Royal, is often¬ 
times at hand, it is used as a stock for the 
newer kinds. Seed is the way by which new 
varieties are obtained, and to any one who does 
not mind waiting some years for the fruits of 
his labour, seedling Rhododendrons offer a 
tempting prospect. There is no difficulty in 
obtaining plenty of 6eeds if the flowers are pro¬ 
perly fertilized; when ripe they should be sown 
in pans of light sandy peat, just sprinkling a 
little dry sand over them when sown, not enough 
to cover them, but to partially hold them in their 
places. Either put the pan in a close case in 
the stove, or lay a pane of glass over it, and 
when the seeds germinate give air by degrees. 
The young seedings are very liable to damp off, 
so a sharp look out must be kept, and when any 
symptoms of damping show themselves, prick 
the young plants off into other pans—a very 
delicate operation, as great care must be exer- 


young plants require rather a high temperature 
in their earlier stages, care must be taken that 
they do not suffer from thrips, which will some¬ 
times attack them, even as soon as they become 
visible. H. P. 


Souvenir de la Malmaieon Carnation. 
—This fine variety is not by any meanB so 
well or widely known as it should be, and al¬ 
though occasionally found in good condition, it 
is oftener met with growing with ordinary tree 
or perpetual flowering kinds than otherwise, and 
as the treatment that insures a supply of flowers 
in winter in the case of true perpetual flowering 
Carnations, such as Miss Joliffe, Vulcan, The 
Bride, &c., is enough of itself to spoil all chances 
of success with this grand variety, perhaps 
a few notes on the system of culture, by which 
I have yearly produced not only quantity, but 
quality, may be acceptable to many who attempt 
its culture, but fail from treating it as a true 
tree Carnation. In the gardens at The Grove, 
Gosport, I lately Baw some magnificent plants 
of it in the most robust health in a cold unheated 
orchard house, arid although they showed their 
relationship to the perpetual tree kinds by 
producing here and there a flower-spike, it was 
not more than ordinary border Cloves will do 
if placed under the shelter of a glass roof. 
Souvenir de la Malmaison is a summer flowering 
kind, and does not answer for forcing. A 
lengthened season of flowering may, however, 
be secured by placing a few of the most forward 
plants of it in a house, where plenty of light 
and air is admitted and a gently progressive tem¬ 
perature maintained, and by allowing another 
batch to come on in cooler quarters under glass, 
and by setting the remainder in a shaded position 
as soon as the frost is over to constitute the 
latest supply ; thus a succession may be kept up 
from April to November. At the Grove this plant 
is made a speciality of ; the main stock of plants 
for flowering this year are in pans made to suit 
the wants of this Carnation. They are 14 inches 
in diameter and 8 inches deep. Ordinary flower¬ 
pots of that diameter at top would be too deep, 
as this Carnation is a surface-rooting plant, and 
does not require a great depth of soii. Good 
drainage is, however, of the highest importance, 
and these pans are filled quite one-third with 
potsherds. On the drainage is laid rough fibry 
turf, and the rest consists of rather sandy loam, 
a little rotten manure, pounded charcoal, and 
silver sand. Only one plant is put in the centre 
of the pan when potted in spring, but in August 
when they have made five or six good strong 
shoots these are layered in the usual way ; there¬ 
fore, now to all appearance each pan contains 
five or six separate plants, although in reality all 
are united to the parent plant, and each side 
plant is furnished with quantities of shoots just 
starting into growth. The amount of blooms 
which one of these large plants produces is there¬ 
fore astonishing. As regards the hardiness of 
this variety, I may mention that the whole stock 
was out-of-doors until near Christmas—exposed, 
in fact, to some of the sharpest frosts we have 
had this winter; for, owing to alterations in the 
glasshouses, they could not be got under cover 
so early as usual. I would strongly advise those 
who have failed with this Carnation through 
coddling or forcing it to try it on the cool, airy 
principle. Shelter from heavy rains or severe 
frosts is all that it needs. When in flower it will 
well repay any attention bestowed on it, its 
blooms being nearly as large as those of a Sou¬ 
venir de la Malmaison Rose.—G. 

Dwarf Asters. —There are several useful 
sections of these, not only useful for cutting 
from, but well adapted for small gardens, owing 
to their being capable of cultivation in a smaller 
space than that required for such robust grow¬ 
ing types as Truffaut’s rseony-flowered, the 
Victoria, or Betteridge’s Prize Quilled. Looking 
over a collection of Asters last August, I was 
much struck with a dwarf type known as 
Sutton’s Miniature, a profuse flowering variety, 
very useful indeed for growing in pots. This is 
valuable for getting into bloom early. Dwarf 
Bouquet is a little taller, and this and a good 
strain of the ordinary dwarf German Aster are 
both good types to cut from, because so profuse 
blooming. For growing in pots they are in¬ 
valuable. There is a section of dwarf Asters 
which might be denominated intermediate types, 
averaging from 12 inches to 15 inches in height, 
and which are specially adapted for bedding or 


cised ppt te biqse the tender tissues, As the 1 ribbon borders, Or these the dwarf Chr.vsanthe. 



524 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Jan. 19, 1884. I« 


mum flowered is deserving of all praise, and it 
is one of the best and most useful types in cul¬ 
tivation, the flowers being large and so abun¬ 
dantly produced as to almost hide the foliage. 
The average height is 10 inches, and it is one of 
the characteristics of this Aster to throw out a 
large number of side blossoms that are very 
useful to cut from. The Schiller Aster is a most 
useful form also. This, like the foregoing, be¬ 
longs to the flat-petalled type, growing about 
12 inches in height, of robust constitution, and 
symmetrical growth, yielding a large quantity 
of flowers. As many as from 60 to 80 blossoms 
have been counted on a single plant, and of 
which there are several varieties. A more use¬ 
ful type cannot find a place in gardens. The 
large flowered Rose Aster is a dwarf strain of 
Truffaut's Pteony-flowered Perfection, and this 
also is robust and very fine, and of great value 
in the garden. The dwarf Victoria also comes 
into the flat-petalled group, and is a valuable 
acquisition. Though distinot, it is often con¬ 
founded with the dwarf Chrysanthemum- 
flowered, and the latter is substituted for it. 
All the above are well worth attention for the 
purpose named, viz., cultivation in pots for 
cutting.—R. D. 

Perpetual Carnations.— This is the time 
to look up the old plants and get them in a little 
heat, so as to procure some small Grass for cut¬ 
tings, which should be put in as soon as possible. 
They will strike as easy as Fuchsias in bottom- 
heat during February, March, April, and May. 
Pot olf as soon as rooted, and replace in a warm 
dung bed or pit until well established. Gradually 
harden off in cool frames until May ; then plant 
out in some open place or keep potting on as the 
pots get filled with roots, stopping the plants as 
they may require it. The plants must be lifted 
from the open ground in September and put in 
pots, staked, watered well, and placed in a shady 
place for a few days, then exposed to the sun 
again ; place them under glass before they get 
saturated with the autumnal rains. When the 
pots get full of roots, give weak liquid manure 
once a week. In case the green fly appears, 
apply Tobacco powder or a solution of Quassia. 
Do not let any weeds get among them, or mil¬ 
dew will make its appearance; if it does, then 
apply flowers of sulphur. In the Bpring plant 
the old plants against the wall, or in a row 
across the kitchen garden, and strain a few wires 
across to tie them to, and they will continue to 
flower the whole of the summer. Strike a fresh 
lot of plants every year, as old plants are unpro 
fitable in every form. Some leaf-mould, manure, 
and sand in equal parts, make a good compost 
for them. With very little trouble, they may be 
had in flower al 1 the year round in any ordinary 
greenhouse with a little heat during the winter 
months.—H. 


10843.— Camellias from cuttings— The 
time to insert Camellia cuttings is in August, 
just as the wood has matured. The wood chosen 
should be ofthe current season’s growth, and each 
cutting should have three eyes, and only the 
lowermost leaf, where the cut is made, should be 
taken off. Take a 6-inch pot and half fill it with 
drainage, on which lay some fibrous material, 
filling up to within half-an-inoh of the rim with 
good peat, to which has been added one-fifth of 
silver sand. Let the compost be just moist, but 
not wet, and make it firm by tapping the pot 
smartly on the bench, making the surface firm 
and level. Having first prepared the pots, take 
the cuttings, and, with a very sharp knife, cut 
straight and even through the wood just below 
the lowermost joint, cutting away the leaf close 
to the stem. Then insert the cuttings about a 
dozen together, putting three in the middle of 
the pot and the remainder round the edge, 
finishing off by giving a moderate watering. 
Place in a cold frame in a cool position if pos¬ 
sible, shading from sun, and keeping quite close, 
only admitting air for an hour or so early in the 
morning. Byautumn they will have calloused, and 
should by the middle of September be removed 
to a house where the temperature ranges at 50° 
through the winter, keeping them under a hand- 
light and giving every morning a little air ; or 
they may be wintered in the same way in an 
ordinary greenhouse, but in that case watering 
must be carefully done, keeping the soil con¬ 
stantly moist, but avoiding heavy waterings.— 
J. C., Syjleet. 


Raising email needs 

as those of W 


[tall needs —Small seeds, such 
b *^ia, | jwasionally 


present, especially to the amateur, considerable 
difficulty in inducing them to germinate. This 
arises from the fact that, while it does not do to 
cover such seeds with soil, a very small amount 
of surface dryness is sufficient, when the seeds 
are swelling, to destroy them altogether. 
Covering the pots with Moss or sheets of glass is 
occasionally recommended; but both tend to 
draw up. the seedlings, and not unfrequently 
cause them to damp off. Such being the case, I 
submit the following plan, with which I have 
been very successful in raising hybrid Begonias, 
seed of which is very small indeed. In most 
plant houses may be found pots surfaced with a 
delicate growth of Moss, varying from the condi- 
dition of a green felt to fully-developed Moss. 
On this sow the seeds. The Moss maintains a 
genial moisture, while its fibres retain among 
them the tiny seeds and prevent them from being 
washed down into the soil and lost. A piece of 
turf (peat) kept close and moist under a bell- 
glass also answers the purpose, but air must be 
freely and judiciously admitted as soon as the 
seeds are up.—G. 

10869.— Perns for cold greenhouses' 

—The following are amongst the best of British 
Ferns:—Scolopendrium vulgare crispum, one of 
the handsomest and most free growing hardy 
Ferns in cultivation, forming dense “ bushes; ” 
S. vul. marginatum, undulatum, digitatum, and 
Kelwayi, the latter very distinot and handsome ; 
Polypodium vulgare, P. vul. elegantissimum, 
and Cambricum, the Welsh Polypody—not ex¬ 
celled in grace and beauty by any Fern, British 
or exotic; Lastrea Filix-mas cristatum, a noble 
variety; Lastrea Filix-foemina Fieldiae, Poly- 
stichumangulare proliferum.and lonchitis; Asple- 
nium viride, Ceterach offlcinarnm.and Allosorus 
crispus. These are all beautiful and distinct; 
will do well in a cool shaded house, and most of 
them will retain, thus sheltered, all their fresh¬ 
ness and verdure through the winter. In ad¬ 
dition to these we also strongly recommend the 
very handsome and distinct Japan species, Cyrto- 
miumfalcatum, Lastreaopacaand Standishi.and 
Platyloma rotundifolia, which are quite hardy 
in a cold house; also the Club Mosses, Selagi- 
nella Kraussiana and Browni. If possible, plant 
out in equal parts loam and peat, with some 
white sand to keep it free and open.—J. 
CORNHILL. 

10819.— Dracaenas and Orotona.— Few 
plants demand a larger share of heat and atmo¬ 
spherical moisture than Crotons, and any attempt 
to grow them “cool” will only result in com¬ 
plete failure. Even when resting in winter they 
require a day temperature of 60°, with not less 
than 55 Q at night. In spring, when making 
growth, they demand not less than 65°, with a 
rise of from 10° to 15° on fine days. Plenty of 
light, with shade from hot sun, and a very moist 
atmosphere, are the main elements of success. A 
good compost consists of fibrous loam and good 
peat in equal parts, with plenty of silver sand, 
and good drainage. The beginning of March is 
a good time for repotting, after which for a time 
waterings should be moderate, but when the pots 
get full of roots, liberal supplies should be 
given, as when doing well, Crotons use a large 
amount of moisture. When they have completed 
their growth, which will be by the end of July, 
more air should be admitted to ripen it, but in 
hot weather the foliage should be syringed 
twice a day. Dractenas, such as terminalis and 
amabilis, require a winter temperature of 60°; in 
other respects they are to be treated the same as 
recommended for Crotons.—J. C. B. 

10829.— Geraniums and Calceolarias. 

—The way to quickly raise a stock of Calceolarias 
is to put the plants into a temperature of from 
65° to 60° about the middle of January. As 
the days lengthen they grow very rapidly, and 
the cuttings strike readily in about a fortnight. 
If the convenience of a warm house does not 
exist, the cuttings may be put in a cool house 
in April, but they will not make large enough 
plants for bedding this year. If the Geraniums 
can have about 50° constantly from now on 
they will furnish good cuttings, but they must 
get plenty of air. The strong shoots may bo 
taken off now, and will soon strike in a warm 
bouse.—J. 0. B. 

Sowing Solanums— The plan I should 
recommend is to sow the seed in February, and 
as soon as the plants aro large enough pot them 
off into single pots and grow them on in frames 
elesg to the glass. Ip cyder to secure a dwarf, 


well-shaped plant, the leading shoot must be 
I pinched out, and the side shoots tied down to 
the rim of the pot to form the basis of the future 
plant, but they should not be stopped too late 
in the season, or the berries will not ripen. 
Confine them to 4^-inch pots the first season; if 
a sufficient number of old plants have been 
retained and cut down for the largest specimens, 
they make the best plants the second year. 

108S2.— Plants growing spindly— Too 

much warmth with too little air is the cause; as 
you have an oven underneath the temperature 
rises too high, especially at night. This may 
rot Ferns, but causes such air-loving things as 
Geraniums to draw. Give more air, and if the 
nights are mild leave a chink on at the top all 
night. 50° is not too much by day, but at 
night 45° is enough. If you have no ther¬ 
mometer, get one, and keep rather under than 
over these temperatures. It may drop to 38“ 
at night without harm.—J. C. B. 


THE DOMING WEEKS WORK. 
Glasshouses. 

Oranges. —Where these are treated so as to 
keep them in a healthy, vigorous, thriving con¬ 
dition, furnished with plenty of good deep 
green-coloured foliage, they are amongst the 
most effective and useful subjects that can be 
introduced into a conservatory, beariDg fruit in 
different stages of development for a great 
portion of the year, and producing plentifully 
ffowers alike acceptable for their odour and also 
for cutting. There is one drawback to their 
cultivation—their liability to the attacks of in¬ 
sects, particularly brown and white scale. 
Where the latter exists on large specimens it is 
impossible to keep them in health without con¬ 
tinual attention. Now, whilst they are dormant, 
an effort should be made to get these pests well 
under; they may be altogether eradicated by 
repeated dipping or syringing with strong in¬ 
secticide, but to accomplish this it will often be 
found necessary to sacrifice the flowers for a 
season, as the continued washing with a solution 
sufficiently strong to destroy these most difficult 
of all insects to kill, frequently has the effect of 
stopping the development of the bloom-buds; 
but the loss of a season's flowers will be found 
to be amply compensated for by the improved 
after condition of the plants and the great 
saving in labour. In small conservatories a few 
medium-sized plants of the ordinary sorts of 
Orange will associate well with Camellias, and 
the small-growing Otaheite kind, that fruits so 
freely when not more than 12 inches or 15 inches 
high, will be found suitable for standing in vases 
ou brackets, or other prominent positions in 
either large or small bouses. 

Epacrises.— There are numbers of these 
naturally disposed to bloom in the winter, but 
they flower much freer and fuller if placed in a 
temperature such as conservatories are ordinarily 
kept to at this time. Amongst them are the 
erect-growing varieties of E. hyacinthiflora, can- 
didissima, carminata, and falgens. In the 
more busby-habited kinds the white Lady Tan- 
mure, Salmonia (salmon colour), and Sunset 
(fiery-red), with others of intermediate shades, 
will, if accomodated with the little extra 
warmth, open their flowers much freer than 
when kept cool.and continue blooming for many 
weeks. They are much more generally useful 
than winter-flowering Heaths, on account of 
their being more easily kept in health, giving 
great diversity of colour, as well as brighter 
and more cheerful-looking blossoms, and better 
adapted for cutting. With the erect-growing 
kinds especially it is necessary to considerably 
reduce the preceding season’s growth; conse¬ 
quently, the whole of the shoots have to be 
shortened back, and they may, where cut 
flowers are wanted in quantity, be so treats' 
whilst in bloom. The bushy growers will aht 
bear the knife freely. For the same reason 
there need be no hesitation in cutting their 
shoots when in flower. 

Acacias and Daphnes.—I f plants of Acacia 
armata and Drummondi have made their growth 
early in summer and are well ripened up. the 
temperature of the conservatory will bring them 
on into bloom quickly, and the flowers will last 
longer than if developed iu more heat. Both 
theso Acacias, when they have attained anything 
near the size required, will be benefited by 
tjute-fourtiis of the current spa ,-pug growth 


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Jan. 19, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


525 


being reduced. Daphne indica is another plant 
which should find a place in every conservatory, 
as its presence alone, without the aid of any 
other sweet-scented flowers, is sufficient to keep 
up the most agreeable perfume. Both the white 
and the pink bloomed varieties deserve growing. 
Their agreeable scent is frequently the cause of 
more of their flowers being cut than is consistent 
with the well being of the plants, which cannot 
bear much cutting, unless, in the case of 
individual specimens that are very strong, and 
in this matter the cultivator can always be 
guided by the condition which the plants are in 
at the time. 

Flower Garden. 

Take advantage of dry weather for deeply 
digging and manuring with good rotten cow ma¬ 
nure or leaf-mould beds intended for Anemones 
and Ranunculus, and lose no time in getting 
them planted. Place a little sand about the 
roots, and protect from frost. Look over spring- 
flowering plants, make np gaps, stir the surface 
soil, and secure any that have been loosened by 
frost. If autumn-planted Violas have become 
«' drawn," peg them down, and top-dress with 
rich compost. Calceolarias and Violas in ontting 
frames may now be pinohed to make them throw 
out side shoots before they are lifted and trans¬ 
planted in February. Acacia lophantha, one of 
tho most graceful and effective of sub-tropical 
plants should be sown now in order to have good 
plants for patting out in May. Another fort¬ 
night will be sufficiently early to sow Solanums, 
Ricinus, Wigandias, Ferdinandas, and other free 
growers, as they are apt to get pot-bound and 
stuoted before planting time when sown too 
early. Pelargoniums that were not propagated 
in sufficient quantity in the autumn should now 
receive attention: three cuttings in a 3-inch pot 
make fine plants for turning out into beds with¬ 
out division. They strike freely at this season 
on a dry, warm shelf in a vinery, where there is 
a minimum temperature of 55°. When the 
weather is open trench and dig all beds and 
borders that are vacant, and each bed should 
have manure proportionate to the requirements 
of the plants intended to grow in it. Calceo¬ 
larias, Verbenas, Violas, and all sub-tropical 
plants can scarcely have too much. Pelargo¬ 
niums flower best when the soil is poor, but the 
beds should be deeply trenched with the view of 
resisting drought. Well roll all walks imme¬ 
diately after a thaw ; they will dry off hard and 
smooth, but if left till dry the roller makes little 
impression on them. Complete re-gravelling or 
re-surfacing and turning walks as the weather 
permits, iD order that they may get consolidated 
before a drier period arrives. The same remark 
applies to lawns, which at this season can hardly 
be rolled too much. 

Trees and Shrubs. 

Tho planting of all kinds of deciduous trees 
and shrubs, the buds of which are fast swelling, 
should now be brought to a close as soon as pos¬ 
sible. After planting, all should receive a good 
mulching of half-rotten litter; and if the appear¬ 
ance of this be objectionable, scatter a little 
fine soil over it. Trees should never be planted 
in a hollow, bat on the summit or side of hills. 
In such positions they always look more natural, 
and shew off to better advantage, and help to 
bring out any slight undulations in the ground 
In the most favourable manner. If the weather 
continue mild, Aucubas, Rhododendrons, l)oi, 
and plants of this kind, that always lift with 
good balls of earth, may be moved with com¬ 
parative safety. April is a good month for trans¬ 
planting evergreens, and any choice specimens 
should be left until that time. The ground be¬ 
tween rows of Conifers not intended to be re¬ 
moved this spring should be dug over, but not 
so as to injure the roots. A rough weeding is 
necessary before digging, otherwise the over¬ 
turning of the soil transplants the weeds. Insert 
cuttings of deciduous trees and shrubs in 
sheltered places, such as in narrow borders, at 
the base of walls or hedges, in rows G inches 
apart, and 1 inch or thereabouts between the 
cuttings, whiah should oonsist of last year’s 
wood out into pieces from G inches to 9 inches 
long. Limes, Poplars, Elders, Weigelas, Spirieas 
(suoh as prunifolia), Kibes, Deutziae, Cornuses, 
Buddleas, deciduous Magnolias, Viburnums, 
J asminom nndiflorum, Willows, and many other 
plants may be increased from cuttings ineerted 

jn this way at any time between January and 

Co gfe 


Roses in Pots. 

Tea Roses in pots grown out-of-doors in sum¬ 
mer and treated with the intention of having 
them well furnished with buds in the autumn, 
and then placed in a greenhouse temperature to 
enable the full development of these outdoor 
formed buds without much fire-heat, which they 
will do up to the close of the year, will now 
need to be managed with a view to their doing 
service in a like manner next autumn, for, when 
required to produce flowers in this way there 
should be no attempt' to force them on so as 
to make farther growth and bloom after they 
have borne the first crop; but they ought not to 
be turned out for some time yet into cold frames 
where the soil about their roots will be liable to 
get frozen, unless precautions are taken to pre¬ 
vent this, as such treatment would affect their 
now more or less active roots and interfere with 
the growth they are expected to make during 
the summer. They should be put where there 
is the means of excluding frost, and any pruning 
that may be necessary it is better to carry out at 
once, allowing them to remain here until the 
spring, by which time their young shoots will 
begin to move, and whatever potting is needed 
can be done, and when the season is past for 
any frost likely to injure them, they may be 
turned out-of-doors where they are to remain 
for the summer with their pots plunged in ashes. 
Where there is an attempt to supply Roses all 
the year round, plants thus treated fill an im¬ 
portant place, their bloom coming in before that 
of those subjected to more heat, but if they arc 
to increase in size and vigour, as is desirable, 
they must after flowering, be cared for iu a 
manner different from the rough usage to which 
they are often submitted after blooming. 

Fruit. 

Vines.— All Grapes now on the Vines should 
be cut and stored in a dry room, for if not done 
soon, a recurrence of mild weather will at once 
put the sap in motion, and two evils will be tho 
result, viz., the Vines will bleed by being pruned 
so late, and the Grapes will burst as soon as they 
are put into the bottles of water. When the 
pruning is done, thoroughly cleanse the houses 
and Vines by rubbing off any loose bark and 
painting them with the usual composition, both 
as a preventive against and remedy for insect 
pests. The borders should then be renovated by 
clearing off all surface soil, working it out from 
the roots with hand-forks, and replacing it with 
the best loam that is to be had, with which 
should be mixed a liberal allowance of half¬ 
inch bones and wood ashes or charcoal, tho 
whole being pressed firmly about the roots. For 
the present guard against exciting the Vines 
into activity by keeping the house as cool as 
possible, a month’s real rest being more 
beneficial than two months uncertain rest. 

Hardy fruit. — In pruning orchard trees, 
have every branch clear of its neighbour, and 
so thinned that, when windy, they do not chafe 
together. The long and ugly spurs should be 
shortened back by ontting a few off each year, 
and in this manner gradually getting rid of all. 
Lichen and Moss must be cleared off, and, if 
necessary for its thorough destruction, the 
stems and branches painted with a mixture of 
quicklime and soot. A good dressing of either 
fresh Boil or manure should afterwards be given; 
and if digging amongst the trees be imprac¬ 
ticable, leave it as a mulching over the roots. 
Raspberries should, at the earliest opportunity, 
be thinned out; all the old fruiting canes of 
last year should be cut away, and the new oanes 
regulated, after which give the ground a good 
coat of rotten manure. Gooseberry and Cur¬ 
rant bushes may be pruned and the branches of 
eaoh well thinned out. All kinds are best 
pruned on the spur prinoiple, with the exception of 
Black Currants, and these bear the finest fruit 
on the wood of the previous year. Planting all 
kinds of hardy fruit, when the ground is in 
suitable condition, should be pushed forward, as 
it is desirable that such work should be com¬ 
pleted early. The same remarks apply to trees 
growing too freely, which require root-pruning 
to induco greater fruitfulness, 

Vegetables. 

Early Horn Carrots may now bo sown, but in 
cold positions Carrot Eeeds lie a long time in the 
ground, and under such circumstances it will, 
for very early crops, bo better to cut a wide 
trench, and fill it with warm manure! cover it 
with 5 inches or t( inches of light soil, and pro¬ 


tect it with glass or outer covering. Sow a few 
Wood's Frame and French Breakfast Radishes 
and protect them as suggested. Where an 
autumn supply of Brussels Sprouts is required, 
a box or two should now be sown under glass. 
Plant out from the seed bed autumn-sown 
Cabbages to succeed those planted last Septem¬ 
ber. Stir the soil witli a fork between the rows 
of early Cabbages, selecting a drying day for the 
operation, and afterwards earth them up. Make 
a smalt sowing of Celery, in pans or boxes iu 
heat, for flavouring purposes. When the weather 
is suitable, and the ground in good working 
condition, a portion of the autumn-sown Onions 
should be transplanted. Select for them a piece 
of land that was manured and deeply dug in 
the autumn or early winter; wheel on a 
good dressing of charcc-al dust or charred 
refuse, spread it evenly over the surface, 
and rake or fork it in. Soot also may at 
all times be beneficially applied. Make the 
ground tolerably firm, and put in the plants, not 
too deeply,' 1 foot row from row, and 4 inches 
apart in the rows. Make a sowing of Veitch's 
Autumn Cauliflower in pans in heat. Take np 
the remainder of the crop of Jerusalem Arti¬ 
chokes ; select the best for use; place them in a 
cool cellar or shed, with a little dry sand strewed 
over them to keep them from shrivelling. As 
soon as the surface of the soil is dry enough, go 
over such crops as Spinach, Onions, Lettuce, Ac., 
with the Dutch hoe. The sooner all vacant plots 
of land are trenched or dug the better. Sow 
early Peas in warm sheltered positions; Ring¬ 
leader and 'William the First are suitable; or, 
for small gardens, Tom Thumb or Beck’s Gem 
may be substituted. The dwarf Fan or Cluster 
Bean is a good companion for the Gem Pea ; it 
is very prolific, and occupies little space. A few 
early Potatoes may also be planted in a warm 
position, but unless the means are at hand for 
protecting them when they come up, the chances 
of success are remote. 


BOSES. 

10863. — Boses In greenhouse. — The 
MarGchal Niel may be trained about G inches 
from the glass, and will do very well at that 
distance, although if there is head room, we 
should prefer from 9 inches to 1 foot, as this 
distance allows of a current of air passing 
between the plant and the glass. Iron studs 
with an eye in the end should be inserted about 
every G feet, and stout wire run through from 
end to end, the distance between the wires being 
about 1 foot. If possible, plant out, as a much 
stronger growth is thereby ensured.—J. C. B. 

-Ten inches from the glass is a good 

distance at which to fix the trellis to train the 
Marecbal Niel to. Another subscriber com¬ 
plains that a plant of this Rose in a pot, and 
growing in a greenhouse does not flower, 
although it grows freely enough. The reason it 
does not flower is, probably, because the plant is 
too far removed from the glass, and does not get 
sufficient air.—J. D. E. 

10859. — Bose Marechal Niel not 

flowering.—Probably the wood is not strong 
enough to bear flowers. Very strong growth is 
required in the case of this Rose. The only 
way to bloom this Rose well is to prune back 
hard every year and encourage the formation of 
strong rods, which iu December are shortened 
back to two-thirds of their length. The time to 
prune is after flowering, but in your case we 
would cut in now and leave only two shoots, 
and encourage them to strong growth by giving 
liberal supplies of manure water.—J. C. B. 


ROTATION OF CROPS. 

That moving to fresh soil, if of a suitable cha- 
rater, does tend to benefit a plant, is, I think, 
certain; or, if it is inconvenient to move the 
plant, if the fresh soil can be brought to it and 
placed within reach of its roots, a corresponding 
advantage will be obtained. Sometimes, where 
the subsoil is capable of improvement, the new 
soil suitable for some crops may be found on the 
spot by going deeper down than hitherto. In 
this way vegetables, such as Potatoes, Onions Ac., 
have been grown for many years on the same 
land without any apparent falling off in bulk or 
quality, especially if the 6eed is changed fre¬ 
quently. Though Potatoes and Onions aro largely 
composed of water, yet by reason of their bulk 
1 they cettfliply do take a good deal out ol the ian’t 


526 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Jan. 19, 1881. 


still they do not exhaust it like Cabbages, which 
in most gardens occupy the ground for a much 
longer period. Most of the so-called permanent 
crops would be much improved by more frequent 
removal. Strawberries, all are agreed, are im¬ 
proved by being shifted every three years or so 
on most soils j and I have long been convinced 
that if Raspberries were moved more frequently 
the fruit would be finer and the crop generally of 
.more value. I like to move the plants bodily, that 
is, dig them up as one would dig up any other 
fruiting bnsh or tree, and after discarding the 
oldest stools, plant a selection of the best canes 
on the new site. In this way there is no trouble 
in establishing a Raspberry plantation, for the 
plants have good accumulated roots to begin 
work with; and a mulching of manure when 
the days lengthen will swell the fruit to a good 
size. Rhubarb, Seakale, Globe Artichokes, and 
Horseradish, all usually classed as permanent 
crops, would be better moved at frequent in¬ 
tervals. I like to sow a portion of each annually 
so as to have plants of different ages. This is 
important in the case of Rhubarb and Globe 
Artichokes, giving a successional character to 
the produce as well as adding to its size and 
sncculency. 

Herbs, such as Kage, Thyme, Mint, Ac., often 
occupy the same beds too long, and become 
patchy and unsatisfactory in consequence. In¬ 
deed, nearly all the herbs, especially those in¬ 
creased by cuttings, such as Sage and Mint, will 
be better shifted annually by cuttings planted 
in April and May. The beds when so managed 
always have a close, full appearance, are more 
productive, and suffer less during severe win¬ 
ters than they otherwise would do. And it is 
not uncommon for Sage. Fennel, and Tarragon 
to be much injured by frost when the plants 
remain long enough in one place to get straggling 
in habit. 

Fruit trees on most soils are much benefited 
by having their roots lifted, even if the trees 
cannot be lifted out altogether and moved to a 
fresh site. Though this is a matter of the very 
first importance, scarcely anybody gives it as 
much attention as it deserves. In this repect I 
do not think much progress has been made 
since Bacon wrote recommending the manuring 
oE fruit trees with fresh soil. Then again 

Hardy herbaceous plants of nearly all 
kinds are better for renewal occasionally. Some 
plants, such as Fuchsias, when isolated, seem to 
thrive when left alone. But in the case of 
plants that have to struggle with rivals a re¬ 
newal of soil is one of the best roads to success. 
How very poor the flowers of Herbaceous Phloxes 
become when left on one spot more than two 
or three years. And the same thing occurs with 
Pyrethrnms, Potentillas, and all the class of 
hardy florists’ flowers. A few things chiefly 
having bulbous or tuberous roots do best with¬ 
out any disturbance; for instance, the winter 
Aconite now springing up should occupy a 
position where the spade or fork is never used; 
and the Alstrcemeria and many others dislike 
interference.—C. 


VEGETABLES. 


CULTURE OF HERBS. 

Although herbs of a medicinal character have 
gradually been losing ground in public favour, 
there are many culinary herbs that are still 
indispensable; and as the best season for 
replanting herb beds and making provision for 
the coming year’s supply is at hand, a few notes 
on the culture of such as are really useful may 
not be unacceptable. Herbs are mostly plants 
of easy culture, and only fail when cutting off 
the tops is carried to excess during the dormant 
season, when fresh growth cannot be made to 
keep the roots from perishing. Amongst those 
of a permanent character, of which I have found 
it advisable to have a good supply ready, must 
be named the 


Common and Lemon Thyme.—T hese are 
what may be termed all-the-year-round herbs, as 
they enter into the wants of the culinary depart¬ 
ment both in winter and summer. They are 
readily increased by means of cuttings inserted 
under hand or bell glasses, also by seed ; but, if 
taken in time, division of the roots is the 
readiest way of making good beds quickly, and 
during the month of February, or just as fresh 
growth is starting^s the best time to replant, 
as they strike fresh roots ci-rectlr. aBd soon make 


fine clumps. The best position for herb beds is 
a border close to one of the main kitchen garden 
walks, where they are within ready access at all 
times and seasons. Beds from 5 feet to 6 feet 
wide, with alleys between, and rows of plants 
a foot apart will suit both common and Lemon 
Thyme. 

SAGE, although not so frequently in request as 
the preceding, is a most useful herb, but, being 
of coarser growth, requires more space between 
rows and plants. It will grow freely in any 
good kitchen garden soil, and is readily increased 
by slips or side branches taken off with a heel of 
the old wood attached to them, and dibbled 
deeply and firmly into the soil at this time of 
the year, so as to get rooted before the sun 
shines too brightly; or later in the Beason a 
shaded position must be selected for cuttings, or 
some glass covering must be used to check too 
rapid evaporation. Sage may be readily increased 
by seed that ripens freely in fine seasons ; the 
broad and narrow leafed green varieties are 
those most largely grown, but the red leafed 
Sage is preferred by some, and it is very hardy. 

Mint is a useful herb, being liked both in a 
green and dried state; the young shoots are 
especially valued for mint sauce in early spring, 
and, in addition to the requirements of the 
kitchen necessitating constant picking of the tops 
as long as procurable, both early and late out of 
doors, there is a considerable space of time when 
the supply of green shoots has to be made good 
from the forcing pits. A large stock of roots iB 
necessary in order to insure a supply, and, the 
plant being of a true herbaceous character, its 
roots must have some rest before it starts readily 
into growth again. The best way I have found in 
order to have a good supply all the year round is 
to annually transplant a portion of the stock, as 
the underground roots or stems of the plant 
need fresh feeding grounds, or they soon perish. 
Thecentral portion will usually be barren, while 
a crowd of young growths will be found round 
the edge of the beds, an indication that the 
plants are seeking fresh soil. I find Mint to do 
best in rather light well-drained land, and the 
addition of road scrapings or old mortar rubbish 
is better than manure in stiff adhesive soil. It 
will now be starting naturally into growth, and, 
if pieces of the roots are laid in drills and just 
covered with soil, they will make fine clumps 
for next year’s forcing. Dried Mint is useful in 
winter. It should be cut when the stalks are in 
flower, and carefully dried in a cool airy shed, 
well ventilated, to preserve it from mouldiness. 
Plants cut down will yield a supply of green 
shoots late in the season, while those left to 
mature their growth will be in the best condition 
for early forcing. They must be lifted carefully, 
so as not to break the growing points, and if 
covered with light soil in boxes, and introduced 
to gentle heat a supply of green shoots is readily 
produced. 

Tarragon is of very similar growth to Mint, 
and not only in great request in the kitchen, but 
especially for mixing with salads. It is rather 
capricious as to soil; but when it does not succeed 
in the ordinary kitchen garden soil, I have found 
amixture of old potting material, finely powdered 
brick rubbish and coarse sand, never fail to grow 
it well. If treated exactly the same as Mint in 
respect to cutting, drying, and forcing, a supply 
of both green and dried shoots may be secured 
at all times. 

Sorrel is frequently used as a substitute for 
Spinach. It should be transplanted annually or 
the leaves get very small. The best way, in 
order to secure a continuous supply in summer, 
is to cut off the tops of a portion of the stock at 
intervals of a week, to prevent their running to 
seed, as when this takes place, the supply of suc¬ 
culent leaves soon fails. 

Sweet Marjoram, Winter Savory, Hore- 
hound, Hyssop, Rue, and Fennel should be grown 
in limited quantities. When once established, they 
are not fastidious as to soil or special attention. 
If the beds for them are well prepared at first, 
they will yield a Bupply for three or four years 
without renewal; merely keep them free from 
weeds in summer, and lightly fork in some old 
hot bed manure at this time of year. 

Annual or biennial herbs are of quite equal 
merit to those of a more permanent character. 
First on the list is that daily want of the kitchen. 

Curled Parsley. It is, in fact, only when 
the supply fails that the importance of this 
useful herb is realised. This is the time to make 


preparation by thoroughly cultivating the soil 
intended for its growth. It is a strong rooter 
and gross feeder, and one good plant will cover 
a square yard of soil, and yield a large supply 
of line leaves. Single rows in an open sunny 
position in rich soil yield the best results for 
summer and autumn, if sown at once; for 
winter, sow in July, under the friendly shelter 
of bush fruits or at the base of a wall, where 
the young plants can be easily protected by 
means of straw-thatched hurdles, evergreen 
branches, or similar protections. 

Chervil is a valuable biennial or annual herb 
according to the time at which it is sown, the 
most important being the autumn for the winter 
and spring supply. It is much in request for 
salading, and, in order to keep np a supply in 
summer, frequent sowing is necessary, as in hot 
weather it soon runs to seed. A partially 
shaded position and good soil are the best anti¬ 
dotes to premature seeding. 

Sweet Basil is, perhaps, the most important 
of the true annual herbs. The first sowing 
should be made in pots or boxes in heated pits 
or bouses, as it is tender, and a supply of it can 
only be relied on from the open air during the 
warmest summer months. A bed should be sown 
on a warm border in April, and another in llay, 
for summer use; but, as soon as the nights get 
cold, the supply must be again procured from 
under glass. This herb is highly prized in a 
dried state, and the first sowing out-of-doorf, 
when in full bloom, in J uly or August, should 
be pulled up and carefully dried and preserved. 

Borage is much prized for flavouring wines, 
fcc. It is of easy culture, and its pretty bloc 
flowers make it worth growing, even if not 
required for domestic use, especially where bees 
are kept, as they are especially fond of it. A 
sowing in spring, and another in August, will 
yield a constant succession. 

Corn salad is a useful annual herb. If sown 
in drills 1 foot apart once a month, from February 
to September, it will yield a daily supply. A 
shaded cool border is the best position for it in 
summer, and a dry sloping border for the winter 
supply. Small sowings and often should be 
the rule with this, as with other herbs of rapid 
growth. 

Bush Basil, pot Marigold, pot Marjoram, 
Caraway, and many other useful herbs, may be 
easily raised from seed; bnt, as they are only 
in request in special cases, I need not allude to 
them further than to say that, if 60 wn in March 
or April in seed beds such as are annually made 
for the Brassica family, they will yield a good 
supply without further trouble than that of 
weeding or thinning. 

Watercress is a much valued herb, and, al¬ 
though it can hardly be said to be improved by 
cultivation —for the produce of a clear brook of 
spring water can hardly be exoelled—yet there 
are many places in which these natural condi¬ 
tions are not at command. In that case it bas 
to be cultivated, and very good Watercress may 
be obtained by sowiDg the seed in pans or bores, 
and when large enough, planting ont in cool 
shaded positions, such as the north side of a 
wall, where, if kept constantly moist by copious 
watering, very good cresses are obtainable. 

The Dandelion, I may add, has of late be¬ 
come very popular as a salad herb. It requires 
the same routine in the way of culture as 
Chicory, viz, sow in April in drills, take up the 
roots when fully grown in autumn, and plant in 
a dark warm cellar or Mushroom house. The 
young blanched leaves are excellent for makin; 
up winter salads, and they come in at a time 
when the ordinary supply of out-door materials 
for salading is at its lowest ebb. G. 


Manuring late Brooooll.— Although the 
winter has thus far been very mild, it is never 
safe to get Broccoli too luxuriant in growth 
before the days begin to lengthen considerably, 
for if we do, a sudden visitation of serere frost 
leaves its mark on onr snpply of late spring 
Broccoli, and various are the expedients re¬ 
sorted to in the shape of layering and other 
checks to growth to preserve a crop, the loss el 
which is most severely felt from the scarcity 0- 
green crops that usually prevails in spring. 
After trying various expedients, I can coot- 
dently recommend the following plan, vb- 
pnt out your Broccoli plants early, In pose 
soil, such as between the rows of Potatoes, ® 



Jan. 19, 1884.] 


GARDENIJVG ILLUSTRATED 


527 



Ciiant Marrow; Onions, Trebons or Rousham 
Park Hero; Cauliflower, Eclipse or Autumn 
Giant; Leek. The Lyon; Carrot, Selected Al- 
bringham or Surrey. If the show be in England 
the judges may prefer Brussels Sprouts or Silver 
HiU Turnip instead of the Leek, the latter 
being a vegetable much and justly prized in 
.Scotland for winter use, but its culture in Eng¬ 
land, except in some parts, is rather limited. 
Celery is a doubtful subject, and in an amateur's 
collection may be omitted, especially as the 
number of varieties required is small.—J. 
Thomson, Kcl*o, Scotland. 

-Good Celery would be a strong point in 

a collection of vegetables, and the judges who 
disqualified a collection containing it made a 
pTievous blunder. Potatoes, Peas, French Beans, 
Cauliflower or good Tomatoes would be Abe best 
to add to the Celery. /Good (hicu-oberl would 
also be a strong point.-VUVfJ Vlt 


Spray of Herberts Walltchiana. 

time of sowing, and a succession of crops may 
be ensured by employing a number of the best 

varieties that are known to succeed each other. 
As regards Brussels .Sprouts, spring-sown crops 
cannot be got up and planted too soon. The 
longer the season these have to grow the greater 
will be the crop. Some cultivators realising this 
sow in autumn or in heat (like Cauliflowers), 
but that practice is seldom needful, and the 
plants are apt to run to seed. Under ordinary 
circumstances spring-sown crops should pro¬ 
duce Sprouts by the time they are needed and 
fit to use. They are not wanted particularly 
while summer Cauliflowers are plentiful and 
other summer vegetables abundant, but they 
form the bulk of the supply during the winter 
and spring months. 

10815.—Rhubarb in frames.—Take up 
the roots carefully the last week in October, 
laying them in closely and covering a foot or so 
in depth with straw or some light material. 
Bank up the side of the frame and cover the top 
so that no frost reaches the plants, and you will 


the Berberis proper and the Mahonia, which 
sometimes ranks as a distinct genus. Among 
| the true Barberries a few are really beautiful 
shrubs. The finest, no doubt, is B. Darwini, 
firet discovered by the late Mr. Darwin, in Chili, 
and than which no more beautiful hardy shrub 
exists. This species is now too well known to 
need description. This year it has been very 
beautiful, the mild winter having been favour¬ 
able to it, though even this season it has not 
been so fine as it was in the spring previous 
to the two disastrous winters of 1879 and 
1880, which crippled it severely. Being a 
t native of Chili, it will not stand any great 
I degree of cold, and it is all the better for 
a mild spring. Next to Darwin's Barberry 
in point of beauty is B. stenophylla, the 
long slender branches of which droop 
gracefully on all sides, making the bush when 
profusely laden with blossoms look like a 
fountain of moulten gold. It is, moreover, a 
shrub that is not at all fastidious as to position, 
for it grows in shade as well as exposed, but it 
flowers most freely when in a good light soil in 
a warm sunny situation. It is much hardier 
than B. Darwini, and seldom suffers from severe 
frosts. B. empetrifolia, though a fine shrub, is 
not equal to either of the preceding in point of 
floral beauty, but its habit of growth is elegant 
and it is very hardy. B. dulcis and buxifolia 
are both pretty, but oannot be ranked with the 
first-named kinds, and need only be grown 
where a variety of Barberries is required. The 
common Barberry (B. vulgaris) is really an 
ornamental shrub, and, when in fruit, very 
attractive, the long, drooping racemes of bright 
scarlet berries being produced very abundantly. 
There ere about a dozen named varieties of it, 
all more or less distinct; a selection shou!4 


that they get well established by the time the 
Potatoes are lifted, when if the soil is levelled 
and hoed once or twice in the autumn, this Is all 
the attention they will require, and the soil 
being firm, the growth will be sturdy and dwarf, 
and such plants seldom suffer from even severe 
frost. In February they should be encouraged 
to grow freely by loosening the surface soil and 
giving a top-dressing of rotten manure, or, better 
still, a good supply of liquid manure, for they 
are gross feeders, and being abundant rooters 
they quickly take up the supplies given them, 
and even comparatively small plants in Feb¬ 
ruary, thus treated will yield fine heads in April 
and May, and I may add that in the early part 
of the year liquid manure is frequently allowed 
to run to waste for want of subjects to apply it to, 
and I feel sure anyone giving late Broccoli the 
benefit of it will in future make it an annual 
custom.— James Groom, Ootport. 

10864.—Vegetables for exhibition — 
Assuming that you mean to exhibit, say in the 
month of August or September, in my opinion 
(and you will find many opinions amongst both 
judges and exhibitors), tie best five varieties of 
vegetables nre:-Potitoer,8jboolmastcror Mac- 
num Bonum; Peas, Telephone or Cnlverwell's 


Sowing Cabbage, &o.—It is safe and 
advisable to sow the first outdoor sowings of 
Cabbage in a favourable situation early in 
February, putting in small 'quantities at a time, 
and at intervals of a week or a fortnight till 
April, when sowing oboe a month will be 
sufficient. Some gardeners sow their Broccoli 
twice—about March and again in April—in the 
hope of having a succession of heads during the 
ensuing winter; but we have tried the plan, and 
always found both sowings to come in at the 
same time. We therefore now sow the whole 
crop at once, and as early in March as possible, 
and plant out at the earliest opportunity. The 
latter is a far more important matter than the 


get good Rhubarb in a general way in March, 
much depending, of course, on the season. The 
great point is to lay the roots in early in the 
winter.—J. C. B, 

TREES AND SHRUBS. 


BARBERRIES. 

Though there are upwards of half-a-hundred 
species of Berberis in cultivation, only about a 
dozen amongst them are what may be termed 
really good garden shrubs, for although they 
differ widely in structural peculiarities, many of 
them possess a striking resemblance to each 
other. The genus is divided into two sections 

















528 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Jan. 19, 1884. 


include the white and violet-berried kinds, the 
fruits of which are very beautiful—macrocarpa, 
sanguinolenta, and above all the purple-leaved 
kind (foliis purpureis), a very ornamental shrub, 
the foliage of which is of a deep vinous purple 
hue like that of the Copper Beech, It is a very 
effective shrub when properly grouped, and one 
not often enough met with. 

Quite distinct from any of the foregoing Bar¬ 
berries is B. Wallichiana, a spray of which is 
represented iu the accompanying illustration. 
ThiB species is a remarkably handsome one, on 
account of its compact habit and the fresh, 
deep green tint of its evergreen foliage, with 
which the yellow flowers finely contrast. This 
Barberry is a native of the Himalayas, where it 
was first discovered by Wallich, and introduced 
to cultivation by Messrs. Veitch, through their 
collector, Mr. Thomas Lobb. Subsequently it 
was sent home by Sir Joseph Hooker, and this 
circumstance, no doubt, accounts for the name. B. 
Hookeri, by which it is known in some gardens. 
The name B. Jamesi is also applied to it, but 
we can see no difference between the plants under 
the two latter names and the true B. Wallichiana. 
It is hardy, though liable to be injured by very 
severe frost; it is, however, one that is well 
worthy of general culture. It thrives well in 
ordinary soil and in any position. 

Of the Mahonia section of the Berberis.one of 
the commonest and withal the most valuable, is 
B. aquifolia, than which there are few better 
shrubs, either for a shrubbery or for forming 
dense undergrowth in perpetual shade. It is 
very accommodating, for it thrives almost any¬ 
where. B. fascicularis is much in the same 
way, but showier when in bloom, the clusters of 
yellow blossoms being more numerous. B. 
japonica, also called B. Beali, is a very hand¬ 
some leaved shrub, though rather too tender for 
our climate generally. It should, however, be 
given a place in a shrubbery, as it is so distinct 
from any other, except B. nepalensis, which is 
in the same way, but of much larger growth 
and less hardy. B. Sieboldi is also similar to 
the last two kinds, and, like them, is handsome 
in foliage. B. nepalensis is particularly de¬ 
sirable for planting against a sheltered wall on 
account of the hnge clusters of yellow blossoms 
which it produces in spring amidst the fine bold 
foliage. 


FRUIT. 

STRAWBERRY CULTURE. 

Amongst all hardy fruits there are none that so 
soon repay—and that with liberal interest, too— 
for high cultivation as the Strawberry; more¬ 
over, it will thrive in almost every variety of soil, 
provided the culture is suited to the particular 
kind of soil that has to be dealt with ; yet there 
is a best soil, and all who are fortunate enough 
to have this will find little difficulty in carrying 
out cultural details :— 

Son,.—A deep loam, inclining to clay, or what 
may perhaps he best understood ' by the term 
“ neither heavy nor light,” is suitable for Straw¬ 
berries, but of the two I would prefer that clay 
had the predominance ; and this fact should be 
kept in view in the preparation of other kinds of 
soils. If, for instance, a light peaty soil has to 
be dealt with, it should first of all be trenched 
as deeply as the nature of the subsoil will admit, 
then be given a heavy dressing of well-rotted 
manure, this to be forked in, and then to be well 
consolidated either by rolling or treading, this 
consolidation serving to some extent the same 
purpose as the stiffer loam. All light soils, of 
whatever nature, should be similarly treated. 
The one pre-requisite in regard to heavy soils is 
effective drainage, and deep cultivation is just 
as desirable as on lighter soils, but a manure of 
lighter character may be employed, such as long 
stable litter, spent hops, or vegetable soil. 

Preparation op the plants.— These Bhould 
be had from runners, layered into 3-inch pots 
early in July. A pieoe of turf in lieu of crock 
should be used for drainage, and the pots be 
filled with good loam, which should be well 
finned in the pots and then be plunged between 
the rows of the old plants. Select the strongest 
runners, and secure them on the pots with pegs, 
and keep them well supplied with water. In 
from three to four weeks they will be well rooted 
and ready for planting out, and as soon as this 
is the case the operation should -on n# acoount 
be delayed, otbervfcfcfi ine p.ar.tkjgJtvoot bound 


in the pots, and are liable to be checked in growth 
by the ball getting so dry that when planted out 
new roots have to be made before the plants 
start into growth. 

Planting.—F irst, as to season. Well, any day 
in the 365. But, as with soils, there is also a best 
time to plant, and that is the month of August. 
This, too, is the only season if the mode of pre¬ 
paring the plants advised above be followed; 
and though, of course, it does not follow that this 
is the only successful way, a comparison of re¬ 
sults between this and taking off rooted runners 
that have been simply layered on the ground, or 
the planting out of old forced plants, would soon 
decide waverers in the matter in favour of the 
first-named plan. Next, manner of planting. 
Use trowel and fingers only, making the hole 
sufficiently large to admit of fine soil beiDg 
placed round the roots with the fiDgers; this 
done, use the trowel, and with the handle of the 
same well ram the soil about the roots, and the 
lighter the soil the harder should be the com¬ 
pression of it about the balls of the plants. 
Next, distance apart of plants. This must neces¬ 
sarily be regulated somewhat by the nature of 
soil and sorts grown, but, as a general rule, 2 feet 
apart in the row and 2 feet 6 inches from row 
to row will be ample space, but none too much 
where the ground has been prepared as just 
recommended. 

Varieties.—O f these there are far too many; 
indeed, they are to be had by tbo score, the dif¬ 
ference in many being perceptible in name only, 
or at all events such a trifling difference as not 
to warrant their being grown as distinct kinds. 
After trial of very many kinds, I name two only 
as the best sorts to grow, viz., Vicomtesse Heri- 
cart de Thury and President; these never fail, 
are of first quality, prodigious droppers, good 
growers, arid travel well— properties that are 
alike desirable for the market and for the pri¬ 
vate grower. To aDy that require a greater 
variety I would recommend Keen’s Seedling, 
British Queen, and Sir Charles Napier as being 
the next best kinds. 

General culture.— Mulching is of first 
importance, and should be done as soon as the 
plants are put out with the best manure that is 
to be had. This will render artificial watering 
unnecessary, except in exceptionally dry. hot 
weather; and as winter approaches it should be 
added, too, as a protector to the crowns and sur¬ 
face rootlets, The spring and summer culture 
will be simply to keep the plantation free from 
weeds, and perhaps a matching with clean straw 
or litter as soon as the fruit is set. Isay perhaps, 
because very frequently the autumnal mulching 
gets so washed by the winter and spring rains as 
to make it unnecessary to replace it for the pur¬ 
pose of keeping the fruit clean. As soon as the 
fruit is gathered and the necessary runners have 
been obtained, the plants shouldjbejcleared of all 
runners and dead foliage, the old mulching re¬ 
moved, and be replaced by well decayed manure, 
and this will end all the attention requisite till 
spring time, except it be an occasional weed¬ 
ing. Digging between the rows should never be 
thought of till the plants have to bo dug up, 
which, at the latest, should be after the third 
time of fruiting. W. \Y. II. 


Pear growing for profit.— Allow me to 
offer a few remarks on Pear growing for profit 
from my own experience. I have grown a good 
many sorts of Pears both on the Pear stock and 
the Quince, and also both as pyramids and 
trained horizontally on walls, the branches in 
the latter case being three courses of bricks apart. 
The two most profitable kinds with me on walls 
are Glou Morceau on the Pear and Winter Nelis 
on a south wall on the Quince. I have the latter on 
both stocks on a south wall, but the quantity 
and quality on the Pear stock bears no compari- 
son with those grown on the Quince. The trees 
on the Quince are short-lived compared with 
those on the Pear stock. I am now replanting 
those on the Quince I planted twenty-four years 
ago, while Glou Morceau on the Pear is a model 
of health and fruitfulness; each sort bears so 
freely as to necessitate the fruit beiDg generally 
well thinned, and the summer growth is to a 
great extent, regulated by the amount of the orop. 
It is also left on to keep off the net which is 
always used to protect the fruit from being bird- 
pecked, and remain on as long as possible, 
thereby re larding the ripening. Bergamolte 
d'Esperen is also » good late free-bearing sort. 


For pyramids, I find the best are Doyenne 
du Comice, Louise BoDne of Jersey, Le Cure, Comte 
de Lamy (on the Quince), Huyshe’s Victoria, 
Williams’s Bon Cretien, Duchessede Angouleme, 
Knight's Monarch, and Madame Treyve (ou 
the Pear). I have not gone into the cordon 
system, as it was not the fashion when I 
planted the trees just named. I have nothing 
to say against this way of training, but I am 
still waiting to see the horizontal and pyramidal 
systems surpassed. I have grown Ileum: Clair- 
geau 20J ounces, Doyennfi du Comice 20 ounces 
(shown at South Kensington), both on the 
Quince as pyramids; Easter Beurrfi, Pear stock. 
21 oz.; Glou Morceau, do., 15J oz.; Van Mons 
Leon Leclerc, do., 144 oz.; Chaumontel, Quince 
stock, 14 oz.; Beurre "Ranee, do., 13J oz.; and 
Winter Nelis, do., 84 oz. The above were a few 
of the finest fruits* X weighed of one season’s 
growth, and they only had ordinary treatment, 
as given here. I recommend Glou Morceau 
especially, as it is a good bearer and keeper 
(last year I hadit until April), and I have had 6s. 
per dozen returned from Covent Garden for my 
best fruit of this sort. About three years ago 
last autumn two eminent horticulturists, who 
were making a tour through the south-western 
counties, were surprised at the Pear crops pro¬ 
duced here, and remarked that they had seen 
nothing to equal them that season. My own 
experience is that good crops and fine quality 
depend more upon the culture and a selection 
of the best sorts than on any particular system 
of training. From a pyramid of Doyennfi du 
Comice I was awarded a first prize in the class of 
any sortat South Kensington two years following, 
there being respectively twenty-seven and 
twenty-one dishes against mine. J. E. 

10801.—Pear tree not fruiting.—If the 
tree is planted on a wall facing the west there 
is no reason why it should not bear well, as 
that is the best position for it. Some ten years 
ago I planted two Marie Louise Tear trees, one 
on a wail facing the east, the other on a west 
wall. They both grew equally well and bloomed 
well; but the result was that from the tree on 
the wall exposed to the east we never gathered 
a Pear, while on the other wall we seldom 
failed to get a good crop. In the one case the 
blossoms were sheltered from the east wind, in 
the- other they were exposed to it. It is no 
good to root prune, as you say you have plenty 
of blossoms. You must protect the blossoms 
from frosty winds by hanging some scrim canvas 
in front of them. The best way to do this is 
to get some tall poles. Let one eDd into the 
ground at a distance of about three feet from the 
base of the wall, rest the small end against the 
top of the wall just under,the coping. The can¬ 
vas should be nailed to the top of the wall, and 
also to the poles at the bottom. It need not 
come down quite to the ground. It may be 
rolled up in a few minutes, or let down as easily, 
and must not be kept down when it is not 
wanted, as the trees suffer from close confine¬ 
ment.—J. D. E. 

10806.—Vines not breaking -well.— 

You did right to lay down the canes in a 
horizontal position in November. As soon as 
the shoots have grown about an inch, tie them 
up to their places. The berries decay from two 
reasons, one is that the house where they are 
hanging is insufficiently aired, the other is 
too much moistnro in the atmosphere ; or both 
those causes may be combined. Decaying leaves 
left on the vines is also a fertile source of decay 
in the berries.—J. D. E. 


Slugs.—To destroy these is a difficult matter 
and I confess, although I have adopted the 
following treatment for them, that it is an 
incurable evil, but can be mitigated to some 
extent. The first procedure is in winter, at that 
time during frost. Turn over the frosty surface, 
that is, turn the frozen surface downwards; it 
can easily be done with a stout fork ; apply soot 
then over the surface. In spring, dress the stu- 
face and about the plants with lime and sand, 
distributed with a canister and holes as before. 
In summer when the leafage of beds is too thick 
to apply these dressings, which are also un¬ 
sightly, dear lime water is the best of all, but 
the lime must be fresh and allowed to settle 
before use. It may be used with a watering- 
pot, and will neither disfigure nor injure any¬ 
thing ; if done twioe a week in the evening, it 
will bo almost a curs fur thet j miserable pests. 




Jan. 19, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


THE ENGLISH FLOWER GARDEN. * only fill it with fuel once in two days, and it all the light they can get. Before putting 

This is without doubt the most complete work burns for that period without any further trouble himself to any expense in connection with 
on the flower garden ever published in one beyond just removing any dust which may have these protectors, I think “ L. 8.” should consult a 

volume. In the opening chapters excellent advice collected about the fire bars. I seldom, if ever, practical gardener as to their utility._P.R. 

is given as to designing and planting a flower see an y smoke issuing from the chimney.— , na , R __. ' ' , 

0 - Cowm s 

roweatedmdmd.Jn,, with tbdr height, colooi, .. Qree ^° Uarj ? oop ?T ,f "°I“' '* "I 118 "! ettts lh '° u S h " in, “ tl » 

time of flowerinir and general culture It 13 carefully cemented so as to exclude all damp underground and works upward. Any plant 

is a book that everyone m>=sessiri£r a flower coming n P from below, and the house is other- attacked by this tiresome pest is sure to die or 
garden at all should read attentively It k pro- ™ 13e watertight, “Amateur’ should have com- be rendered useless. It is fond of Carrots and 
fuselv illustrated with excellent Gner^vi of P 1 ?* 6 comman(i over the state of moisture in- these are buried underground with a stick in- 
gardens Dlants Sec ^ ^ sl ^ e * ^ wants more moisture, he can lay a serted into each, the pests may be drawn out of 

b ’ P * few shallow zinc or earthenware pans nnder- the ground with the Carrots, and may thus bo 

~ ~~~ ~ neath the stage, varying the number according destroyed. Carnations should not be planted 

ANSWERS TO QUERIES. t0 the amoaa t of moisture required and the where wireworm is in the ground.—J. D. E. 

- effect produced. He can also syringe the floor 10861—Green fly on Carnations— 

10835—Destroying green fly—Now frequently, and m tins way alone he should be The only way to keep the plants free is to dust 
that there are so many things which may be em- ab \ e *° keep the atmosphere of the house as them with Tobacco powder or dip them in 
ployed for the destruction of green fly on plants moist “ be pleases. In a dry house with a Tobacco liquor at the rate of four ounces to the 
under glass, we do not counsel the use of cemented floor, I have sunk pots of Maidenhair gallon as soon as insects are perceived. Do Dot 
Tobacco fames, except in the case of large * ® rn lb other pots or boxes with Cocoa-nut f or the future wait until the plants are badly 
houses, and when the work can be performed by bbre between, and I have found that the infested, but apply the remedy immediately a 
an experienced gardener. Tobacco smoke is a ns f of U P fr ? m occasional neglect to single fly is perceived, and they will never suffer 

good friend, but at the same time a bad enemy, water sufficiently has been very much reduced. —j, Q t 

and many small growers have had occasion to P® rba P a this plan might suit also with the , ... , , . _ 

rue its use. There are many compositions Stephanotis and other plants which «Amateur ” “ lour plants ^11 now be in frames or under 

which are used in a liqnid form, all of them wishes to grow—P.R. k!^ “ omewh f 0r ®; The right thing to do would 

effectual if judiciously employed, but at the 10866—Olay BOll—Clay acts beneficially wil d^troy^y fl“^w u£n°them“°but if it 

“SllSrS.- handS - when mixed with P° or - sandy soil to Roses, as appears o/them again whTn out of doors! it 

Probably the safest is Tobacco water pouring well as to most other cultivated plants. It must be destroved B by dusting with Tobacco 
boiling water on 4 oz of common Tobacco, greatly increases its power of absorbing and powder—J. D. E 
covering up for a few hours, and then adding retaining moisture. Stiff clavs arc often eom. 

enough cold water to make a gallon of liquid, narativelv rich in nlant fond nlfhmio-b . 10870—Moving Box.—Box can bo moved quite well 

havlnv nrevionslv strained the TnWm lit,,— P a ™ ,uel y Gcb m plant food, although it exists In winter If the weather la open and mild, but there la 

having previously stratnea the I obacco liquor under conditions not readily obtainable by the great risk In most localities of Its being killed by the flrBt 

through a fine cloth. In this the plants are to plants, but when it is thoroughly incorporated ,aTere frost, and particularly by the cold winds of spring, 

be dipped, and in a general way the insects will with a sanrlv soil it U hrooSht to “ >s better to plant It after the frosts are past, bo that 

be killed But diDDing is a dirtv operation .*?“• . 18 brought to a state in the growth may not be interrupted before the roots have 

oe Killed, duo nipping is a airty operation, which its nutritive ingredients obtains a more taken firm hold of the ground.-P. It. 

we therefore council the use P of Tobacco powder “Tmateur^HpralticIwe, tola/the°clay onX I g™w te^r raw by p‘;d t tk l g h ituee"o<, 1 i»" t n 
as being most handy and efficacious. Always surface to be acted on by the frost, after which a " Inch pot. The pota containing the bulbs were plunged 
keep a tin of it at hand, and a mnslin bag, when drv Cdurino- drv March u. ’ In a hotbed; they soon started well and atroDgly, and 

through which the dust can be powdered on the j *■ w larch winds would be a when the plants were too tall for the frame, they were 

to # g d t ! me) fork 11 m well » mixing it with the placed in a greenhouse, where the flowera opened well.- 

leaves, taking care to dust the undersides of soil as he proceeds.—L. C. K. J. D. E. 

them, and the tips of the branches. Theadvan- „ , , .... tk. „_ 

tage of this method is that the antidote is always , , ./“^anonHv^'mnrnv t ^' Dg | ■ b ^ ter tlme to ' “PPly to bulb, m they are 

ready, and as soon as a fly is perceived the plant to permanently improve his light, sandy throwing up their bloom, and until they come well into 

can be dressed and the propagation of the nest 80llth an he proposes, viz , working in clay. It "o'er Its application ia undoubtedly beneficial, causing 
at once checked. It is, also, so safe that any- °ot only makes the soil more retentive of moist- " 10 Br<m Urger 

one may use it, and this much cannot be said of UIe ’ b “ t acts as an absorbent of the various _rin,hs in Th« i„,»w —,w 

any other insecticide. Take care to keep the fe 8 te’nt.mWeri°tw ry « l' 0 vegetatlon ' It mast „ troubleaonw post amo^t Carnaticne. but H iaTot so 
lid on rne tin, as when left open the killing be remembered that siliclous soils have very bad aa wireworm. The best way to get rid of it i» to pick 
properties depart in time. By freely using , e absorbent power. If the clay is of a over the aoll by hand, and should any of them eecape a 
Tobacco nowder green fiv mav be banished loamy character, it is just what is required for search, you must take a light and examine tha 

frt a greenhomie-J C ? B ? hed «■ A UtU. superphosphate of lime added ,^.1%^. 'bon they wff, be found feeding on the 

° would be of great service.—J. W. „ «... 

10873.—Birds and fruit buds.—Personal _ . „ _ , K>83fl.-PaU for Hot-water plpes.-i have re- 

wafohino - rnmhinfd with .in nrcaainriAl tastn nf - You cannot well do anything better cal- cen riy Axed a couple of 2-inch hot-wator pipes. 30 feet 

watching com Dined witn an occasional taste of j t d ^ imDrove a liffht so f, th * hv ^ flow and the same return, and have given 3 inches rise 

gunpowder will do.much to keep these robbers u , b y adding in that Jength-that is, l inch in every 12 feet-and the 

off, but this is not always convenient or profit- cla ^ c ?. 1C ’ D . ut tne cla ^ 8b0al d be pulverised by pipes heat readily to the furthest end with that rise.— 
able. A good scarer is as follows. Cut from a s P rea ^ in & it out over the ground for several j- G., Penman, Northumberland. 
piece of tin, zinc, or wood, a good representation montbs *. a8 then it will crumble to pieces, and — 

of a cat aa if iff the act of leaping after some- InR ^” >e 1Q timately incorporated with the natural Cape Gooseberry — IT. N. C.— Apply to some good 
thing j touch this np with a bit of old far of 60 ! ! ' Th , r ? e iac , hes of , cla T mixe< I with the top ™ at * “ 10 calture llav0 be0 “ k lv en durtng 

anv kind, a few bristles, and so on, a3 much like 8 P lt ' would work wonders, and with plenty of ‘ 

a genuine one as possible. I have seen a stuffed dang would enable you to grow Roses well— sh f‘ n S le Pyrethrums.-S. Jf.-At any good aeed 
one pressed into the service. Suspend your I>. ‘ 

dummy from the centre of its back by a short-Some sorts of clay might be injurious, It l^iTchoose, ^!un» 8 |w“t ultimate r™dts win*ba°oh! 

piece of black elastic, about 3 in. long. This will but good clay loam would bo the very best thing tained by wide planting. You can crop hi between for 

cause it to rise and fall. Now procure a supple to mix with light, poor sandy soil for Roses_ two or three years.-(?. H. If.—If you try it you will 

fitiok wood Ash nlant is best fix firmlv in tbo TDK find out for yourself better than we can tell you.-. 

stick—good Ash plant is best, nx hrmly in the J. D. h. CWstor.-Meaara Barr and Son, 12, King Street, Covent 

ground in a slanting position towards the trees, 10855 _ G-lazinir without nnttv r G » rden 1 Mr- w »re, Hale Narm, Tottenham; Messrs. 

f -Te n t a io P ^ Ce or f mo°re al Tnd hang “ topol ^ '^tsby biding ^ 

the sRck fhe w^d will do the rest Now wateh £L P ^ e ' ^^^^nlrr.-Xothlng now nor rare, Indeed rather 

the result The more you have of them the For upright work it wi l probably be ~~t 

memer, but one to each tree would be enough; neC essary to put a brad immediate^ below the blrJ dealera or otber tradesmen. 

shift their position occasionally, and there are edge of each overlapping pane, but for any »f. Domlney .—Try Me«srs. Barr* Son, 12, King Street, 

not many birds can stand the swoop, of pass, moderate slope this may be dispensed with, and OpiM.—J-. C.-Try Messrs. Canueli & Sons' 

I have seen birds sit and watch them for hours, a brad above the overlap on each side and * ' 

Xe by D -J T g °F Dearer B01ae Apple trees another pair about the middle of the pane wi.l 

' be sufficient. In the above method putty is not mean the old White Lily (Lillum candidum)? 

10831—SmokeleBS heating apparatus, dispensed with altogether, but very mnch less is _ 

—I can assure “G. W.” that he need have no used than if the old way of fixing the panes QUERIES 

fear of his neighbour and himself being annoyed were followed] and it will be found that the '* _ 

by the smoke from his greenhouse fire if he burns bedding of the panes adds much to their losso—Flowers from spring to autumn.—I 
coke. I use coke and breeze for mine, and was security.—J. M. shall be obliged if Borneo! your readerawlll give methelr 


10S86—Flowers from spring 
shall be obliged If some of your readei 


g to autumn.—I 
lerswill give methelr 


little smote me lire crives oir ir “(t w seta «• . , * • ■ ~ . j ~~ »*i,ao > uu » uivuinuo 

I nn a hftflHno’ annawitiiH T mnnM ctrnnfylvr 'advlon fasten a long glass eash, about 3 feet broad, of 12 fo«fc from the fence*. Between the walks anil fences 
up a heating apparatus, I would strongly advise to the to of tl]e wall> and eloping from it at an ar ° bed8 # la ^et wide. Right through the centre of the 
him to have a coil boiler and hot-water pipes. I anc i e 0 f about 45° Anv tradesman ran nnf if <farden * ,roin we8t to eafit « 18 a Graa0 WRlk » with flower 
have one myself, and it is one of the most per- “ gl ® fuffif Lid • Rr bed f on , «? ch 8ide 6 feet wide - The entrance to the 

fort little affadrs one could noasihlv wish for T 8 ? . afe it .°? n tak *n down again without garden is in the west fence opposite this grass walk. 
tect 111 _ ra ne Gou i q p ossibly wish tor. I interfering with the wall. There can be no ad- 11,6 bed * on each side of the entrance between the gravel 


* The English. Flower Garden,f 

London ; John Murray, 


L_ I vantage, unless it be that of cheapness, in usincr ^ a,ha f£ (1 tho ,0n ®°> wb * ob l,0 P fl dGWI1 the^ fence to 
rl’ I 00 ♦*««« lii* .a. F . . . ® the walk, are ured for flowers, so are the beds on each 

v wqoc] $Jnne, as fruit oth©T pjftqts, requirp 1 jdde of the firaM V9 Ue. The 50U’s stiff ami rather clney 


530 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Jan. 19, 1884 


but works fine In dry weather. I am anxious to try what 
can l)e done by seed sowing, instead of preserving 
bedding-out plants, and if the garden is full of flowers 
I shall be satisfied The garden is near the Bea and subject 
to wind.— amateur. 

10887.—Chrysanthemums not flowering:.—A 
woman in ©ur village had a very largo Chrysanthemum 
covered with pure white flowers. She sent me a young 
plant taken from the root in the autumn of 188?. It 
grew with extraordinary rapidity, and threw off two 
suckers, which also grew so fast that by Christmas, 
1882,1 had three large plants, but neither that winter nor 
this has one of the three produced a single flower bud 
Can anyone explain this? I followed as closely as 
possible the directions given in GARDENING, having 
them planted out against a south wall during the 
summer, repotted in August, and brought into the house 
in October, where they have since been in window sills. 

I stopped some of the branches, as they were growing 
too high for our rooms.—M. B. 

10888.— Lilium auratum.—In the summer of 1882 
I planted out two Liliam auratum bulbs which had been 
grown in pots. They were out all winter, and last 
summer one bore thirteen magnificent flowers, the other 
threw up two stems and bore twenty flowers. I have not 
disturbed the bulbs at all, ooly covered the spot with 
Cocoa fibre. Will some experienced Lily grower Bay 
whether I ought to have lifted the bulbs and given them 
new soil or feeding of any kind, and if so, whether it is 
too late to do so now ? This winter has been so mild as 
yet, that I fear the bulbs may be starting, as the young 
growth was above ground last year long before our 
frosts were over. So much for their hardiness so far 
north as Edinburgh even.—W. 

10889.—Pots V. planting: out.—Many plants are 
recommended from time to time suitable for cool-houso 
purposes, such as Camellias, the lovely Lapageria, and 
beautiful Tlumbago Capensis, and so on, of which it is 
Bald they do better planted out than in pots. The former 
is not always practicable if a concrete floor, or convenient 
where a tenant is only such for a limited time. I want 
to ask if someone will define where to draw the line. For 
instance, if I pot a plant from a 6-inch pot to a large box, 
tub, or 14-inch pot, will that be equivalent to planting it 
out? Or is it simply overpotted ? If so, what is the differ¬ 
ence or effect on a plant in giving it a large body of soil 
in pot, or the game space, restricted, in the ground?— 
Brixton Amateur. 

10890 .— Primulas.—Living In a rather smoky town in 1 
the county of Durham, and close to the sea. I am not 
successful with my Primulas. My seed is the best that 
can be bought, and I follow the instructions laid down by 
the authorities. All goes well until my young plants are 
in the cold frames and in 3-inch pots. After that they 
make little or no progress, do not All the pots with root9, 
and have a trick of breaking into flower before either the 
plants or flower trusses are of any size. I do not want 
them to flower until they have got into 5-lnch or 6-inch 
pots, and are well furnished specimens Something 
must be wrong in my treatment. Will some reader 
experienced in such matters kindly point out what i — 
Perseverance. 

10891.—Planting small garden.-I have lately 
taken a small garden about eight yards square, and being 
a novice in gardening, but wishing to make my Bmall 
piece of ground as useful and productive as possible, I 
should feel grateful if any reader could give me an idea 
as to the best and most useful vegetables to plant therein ; 
also varieties and times for planting? I should like to 
start as early as possible, so that I can have early and 
successive crops, and thus make the most of roy ground 

1 may mention that the soil is good sound stuff, and will 
grow anything. A small portion of the gardeu is 
shadowed or overhung by a Mountain Ash tree What 
would bo the best thing to plant under it?—C ottager. 

10892.—Law as to greenhouses-1 am about 
putting up a small lean-to greenhouse, 10 feet by 6 feet, 
wood and glass only, which will lean against the back of 
my house, of which I am a quarterly tenant. A friend 
tells me that if the district surveyor sees it, which he is 
most likely to do, he will make me pull it down, and put 
in 18 Inches at least, of brickwork, which would make the 
place a fixture. Can any reader tell me if such is the 
case, and give me the law on this point? I may add I 
have the stuff all cut out ready to go up, but hesitated 
upon being told the above. Any Information would 
greatly oblige.—ONK IN DOUBT. 

10893.—Rats In fernery.—My fernery is literally in¬ 
fested with rats. How shall I get rid of them ? They will 
not go into a steel trap. I have tried “ Hunter’s vermin 
killer " laid on buttered bread. These are taken away by 
the rats during the night, but ‘ ‘ still they come.” Mounds 
are made in the soil as big almost as rabbit burrows, and 
the plants and rare ferns are nibbled off and left spread 
like fallen trees. It is really disheartening. I cannot 
tell how to proceed to dislodge or destroy them, and 
would be thankful to learn somethiug in this matter.— 
Fanny Fern. 

10891. - Saving: Primula seed.—I have got a good 
strain of Primulas, of which I am anxious to save as much 
seed as possible. I put aside last year some plants for 
seed, bnt only got a very few seeds. I have put aside 
again a few dozen plants, and I hope I shall be more suc¬ 
cessful. I have them on the greenhouse shelf about 

2 feet from the glass. Will someone tell me the best way 
to get the seed ? Do the flowers want to be fertilised in 
any way? Any information will oblige.—G. P. R. 

10895.—Mildew on Vines.—What can be done to 
Vines which for several years have mildew on the leaves 
soon after they appear, and which spreads to the Grapes 
soon after they are formed? The bunches are of fine 
size, hnt the Grapes never come to 1 heir proper size or 
ripen, but are covered with a kind of nearly white sub¬ 
stance, looking like dust or mildew. The Vines are 
planted in an outside border, and are about eighteen or 
nineteen years old.— S. H. F. J. 

10896.—Cucumber culture.—I am intending to set 
apart a hothouse for this purpose, and should be grateful 
if some practicat^carr»’spondent cnnld give me the 
following Information. If Abe i 'M^un under tbe 
bed, is it necasiar\to well, an ttie bottom of the 

bed ? If the bed i??piclptlirecMy,'A^^ Che return 


and the flow pipe carried along the back on a level with 
the Boil, would manure be required? What is the best 
compost for bed ?—Jack B. 

10897.— Compensation for Improvements. — 
Does the Agricultural Holdings Act, 1883, give an outgoing 
tenant of a garden the right to charge the Incoming 
tenant for the unexhausted manure in the land as well as 
the crops? I have planted a few yards of Strawberries and 
a quantity of Rose trees. Can I compel the incoming 
tenant or landlord to pay for them when I leave 1 An 
answer will oblige.—CONSTANT READER. 

10898 —Hollies shedding: their leaves. -Can any 
one tell me the reason why the Holly trees are sheddtng 
tlielr leaves at this time of year? They seem falling 
everywhere in this part of the country, and are quite 
green aDd fresh-looking, not faded, when they fall. Is 
it the mild season, and will the trees be likely to suffer ? 
Hollies grow well here -in Lancashire—and attain a great 
size.—B. C. 

10899 —Onions failing:.—For some years past I have 
been rather successful in growing Onions, of which I 
have had two sorts—Reading and Brown Globe This 
year both have been a failure, as they did not attain half 
the usual size, and the flavour is so strong that they are 
not fit to cook. What was the cause of this, and what Is 
the remedy 7-LITTLEJ0HN. 

10900.—Lily of the Valley not growing'.—I 
have planted a number of fine imported crowns five in a 
pot, using peat, loam, and silver sand. I have put them 
in a greouhouse kept at 60° to 60° ; they have been in 
pots now eight weeks, but have not made a start yet. 
Can any reader give me some idea why they do not grow? 

J. S. 

10901.—Forcing Grapes. -Could I givo my vines a 
little heat to start them in February until about April or 
May, and then leave it off gradually ? What heat is re- 
required, and would it hurt to keep bedding plants or 
Chrysanthemum cuttings in the Vinery ?—G. H. M. 

10902 — Ornamental fernery.—I should be glad for 
suggestions as to forming anornamental fernery, with rock- 
work, in a small house attached to a largo conservatory. 

It will have good light and air an well as heat, and will 
be about 20 feet by 11 feet. Should the glass used be of 
a green tint ?—W. F. G. 

10903.—Plants losing their leaves.-Can anyone 
tell me why the plants I keep in a living room lose 
their bottom leaves? Dendrobiums and Nicotiana afflnis 
suffer most, and Primulas slightly. I so netimes use the 
gas in the room. The plants grow well, and look otherwise 
healthy. -T. H. B. H. 

10904.—Starting Vines.—I have a Bet of houses, 
vinery being first; the pipes have to pass through that 
house to the others, and although ventilators are kept 
wide open, I cannot prevent the Vines starting. After 
they have started, is it advisable to allow them to go on 
slowly or close the ventilators, and put them into heat, 
say 65 Q ?—Vino. 

10905.—Cinerarias. —I have some Cinerarias with 
young shoots sprung from the base; some of them are 
2 inches or3 inches long. Is this the time to take them from 
the old plants and put them into separate pots? How 
should they be taken off ? The plants are coming into 
flower. I did not raise them from seeds, but got them 
from a nursery.—R. S. 

10906.—Plant for hanging basket —Can anyone 
kindly recommend me a plant that would grow in a 
hanging basket in a drawing room window ? The room is 
a very warm one, and this particular window is kept 
constantly open at the top for ventilation, so that there 
must always bo a stream of cold air against the plant, 
except at night. —M. B. 

10907.— Rosea in greenhouses —I wish to make 
a speciality of Roses, so as to have flowers all the year 
round. Can any reader give me instructions how to 
treat the trees in pots and on walls so as to have flowers 
at a given time? I have two houses, one cool the other 
hot. I should be glad to know of a book on the subject. 
-ROSE. 

10908.—Briers from seed —I should be much obliged 
for auy information as to where Drier seeds can be pro¬ 
cured ; also time and manner of sowing and after treat¬ 
ment ; also how and when to make Drier cuttings, their 
.after treatment and manner of budding.—A London 
AMATEUR. 

10909. — Culture of Christmas Rosea. — My 
Christmas Roses bloom profusely, but the blossoim are 
small and the stalks short. Any information as to the 
best mode of cultivation so as to remedy these defects, 
will be thankfully received.—F. H. 

10910. — Obellscarla pulcherrima — Will any 
reader kindly give me some information regarding this 
plant? I know nothing of it but the name, and wish to 
learn more particularly whether it will grow in a fairly 
open suburban garden?—T. J. Weaver. 

10911.—Roses for greenhouse.—I have a Gloire 
de Dijon and MarCchal Nlel Rose in a large greenhouse, 
and have plenty of room for two more—other sorts. 
Will Hybrid Terpetual Roses do, as I have plenty of 
them ? If so, what are the best sorts ?—A. B. C. 

10912. —Nicotiana afflnis —Will plants of Nicotiana 
afflnis, which bloomed well last summer, and have been 
saved in pots through the winter, do well next summer 
if planted out in May or June?—Q. Q. 

10913.— Chry3a nth9mum3 outdoors. — Kindly 
give some directions for the culture of ChryHanthemums 
iu a garden with good aspect. Should they be cut down 
now?—M. C., Dublin. 

10914.—Late Chrysanthemums.—Will someone 
kindly furnish the names of a few Chrysanthemums, in¬ 
curved, reflexed, Pompones, also Japanese that flower 
late?—X. Y. Z 


10917.—Smilax.—I have had brought over from 
America four plants of Smilax, now about 9 inches high. 
Can any reader of Gardening give me instructions as to 
cultivation?—B. A. 

10918. — Hotbed for Cucumbers. — Will some 
readers kindly inform me how and when to make a hotW 
for Cacutnbers, and must I its© cow or horse manure ? 
—8., Didsbury. 

10919.—Echeveria metallica.—Will some reader 
please say how this plant is propagated, and the best 
compost for it, with general treatment ?-T. C. M. 

10920. —Potting Tulips, &C.—In potting Tulips and 
Daffodils, should the neck of the bulb be visible above 
the soil, aa with Hyacinths ?— Kirkby. 

10921.—Knol Kohl.—Would someone kindly give 
me instructions as to the cultnreof Knol Kohl, the time 
for sowing, gathering, <fcc. ?—W. N. C. 

10922.—PI ok Dahlia.— What is the name of the 
best single pink Dahlia?—S. M. 

10923.—Sulphate of ammonia.—Is this good to 
apply to Hyacinths and Cinerarias ?—£. A. B. 

10924. — White Grapes.—I want a few White Grip a 
Vines for ray Vinery. Which are the best sorts?— k. K. 

10925.—Cider Apples.—What are the best sorts lot 
the South of England ?—A. STRONG. 


CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 

William Bull, King’s Road, Chelsea—Select Flower and 
Vegetable Seeds, Lilies, and other BulbB. 

C. Fidler, Readiug, Baras-Seed Potatoes. 

R. W. Bedell, The Nurseries, Wellington, Surrey—Midget 
Catalogue of Plants and Flower Seeds. 

Lalng and Co, Forest Hill, London—New Plants, 
Begonias, and Seeds. 

OrmiBton and Ren wick, Melrose—Vegetable and Flower 
Seeds. , . 

Little and Ballantyne. Carlisle—Spring Seed List. 
Edmund Philip Dixon, Hull—Garden and Farm Seeds. 
Kelway and Sons, Langport, Somerset—Garden Manual 
for 1884. 

W. Piercy, 89, West Road, Forest Hill, London—Early or 
Summer-flowering Chrysanthemums. 

C. Dunwick and Sons, 146, High Street, Ryde, Isle of 
Wight—Seeds, Potatoes, Ac. 

DicKson and Robinson, 12, Old Mlllgate, Manchester- 
Select Vegetable, Flower Seeds, &c. 

Sutton and Sons, Reading—Amateur Guide in Horticiil- 
culture; also Pocket Calendar for 1884. 

James Backhouse and Sons, York—Garden Seeds, Ac. 

W. Tordgood, 68, Above Bar, Southampton—Amateurs' 
Guide to Kitchen and Flower Garden. 

William Paul and Sons, Waltham Cross, Herts—Vege¬ 
table, Flower, and Agricultural Seeds. 

Austin and Me Aslan, 16, Buchanan Street, Glaagow- 
Garden Seeds, Llliums. Gladioli, <fcc. 

Jacob W. Manning, Reading Nursery, Mass—Fruit Tree3, 
Ornamental Trees, Hardy Shrubs, Ac.; also Hardy 
Herbaceous Plants, Ferns, and Lilies. 

John K. King, Coggeshall, Essex-Garden Manual for 
1884. 

The Lawson Nursery Company, 1, George IV. Bridge, 
Edinburgh, and 108, Southwark Street, London—Gardeu 
Seeds, Ac. 

B. 8. Williams, Victoria and Paradise Nurseries, Upper 
Holloway, London—Flower, Vegetable, and Agricul¬ 
tural Seeds. 

BEES. 

The careful apiarian will at this time study 
the hive maker’s price lists, with the view of 
ordering early all hives and appliances he may 
require during the coming season. By doing so 
now, he is likely to be better served than in 
the height of the season. 

Neighbour’s improved cottage hive 
possesses many practical advantages, and is of 
easy management; it is neatly and strongly made 
of straw. The circularlower compartment ha> 
three windows with outside shatters. Inside 
one window a small thermometer is fixed, 
correctly indicating the interior temperature 
of the hive, an appendage of great use to 
the apiarian. The hive rests on a stout wooden 
floor board, out of which is formed an alighting 
board. A hoop of wood is attached to the 
bottom of the hive, which gives it great dura¬ 
bility as well as being a preventive to moth 
and dampness. The top is also of wood, haring 
openings to receive bell glasses or section boie?, 
in which to obtain pure white combed honey 
The whole is protected by a straw hoop-boon 1 
cover, which closely fits the top of the stock 
hive, and is surmounted by a ventilator.by which 
the temperature of the supers may’ be regulated 
Itis secured to the hive by meansof thumbscrew, 
which allow of its easy removal for inspection 
of progress of work in the supers. Placed upon s 
stand amongst the shrubs in the garden, it pre¬ 
sents a very pleasing and rustic appearand 
The hive for the more scientific apiarian is 
bar-fra me hive, of which there are many varietk*- 
One of the best is, doubtless, 

Abbott’s combination, or longitudinal hi”-', 
in which the frames run parallel to the hire 
front, instead of at right-angles to it, which iff* 


10915.—Heating apparatus.—I want practical ad- 
vice how to effectually prevent frost and damp In a lean- 
to greenhouse, 10 feet at back, 17 feet long, 8 feet wide? 

—Milks. 

10916 —Cutting back Fuchsias. &c.— Should the I 

branchesot fuchsias. Pelargoniums oad lotonias be cut hitherto been the usual position of 'theta**- 
back before repotting or after, and how long between \ * , . P ^ .. c 

eact) operation?- J 5 , 4 . B. 1 Tb? advantages of hmjpg the frames plafM 



Jan. 19, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


531 


across the hive are that any number can be 
placed next the entrance for the use of the bees, 
n dummy board at the rear enclosing them. 
Then when the brood nest is formed, a pane of 
queen-excluder zinc can take the place of the 
dummy board, in the rear of wiiich sectional 
boxes can be placed, and the whole closed up 
at the back with a division board. By 
these means surplus white comb honey is 
obtained in the body of the hive. The 
worker bees pass through the excluder zinc 
(which confines the queen to the brood chamber) 
and deposit their surplus stores in the section 
boxes. It is well known that bees, as a rule, 
store all surplus honey as far as possible from 
the entrance of the hive, so that section honey 
can often be obtained in this way, when it is 
found impossible to induce the bees to work in 
sections on the top of the hive. The increased 
length of the combination hive from front to 
rear, permits of both store department and brood 
chamber being made of any desired size, to suit 
the requirements of seasons and localities. It 
will also be necessary to lay in a store of 
appliances, such as sections, comb foundation, 
extractor, uncapping knife, honey jars, feeders, 
travelling crates, veil, Sea. Such a host of 
appliances are brought out in connection with 
the bar-frame hive, that it is no wonder the bee 
keeper of the old school becomes alarmed at the 
list, and clings to his straw skep and brimstone 
pit with increased tenacity, feeling that at any 
rate his way does not involve much outlay, be 
the returns what they may. But fortunately for 
him there is a middle course, there is a stepping 
stone to modern bee keeping and the bar frame 
hive; it is the improved straw hive, flat topped, 
having a hole 3 inches in diameter, protected 
with queen-excluder zinc, upon which can be 
worked sectional boxes, and pure white comb 
honey obtained. This stepping stone has un¬ 
fortunately been almost entirely ignored by the 
promoters of advanced bee keeping, who have 
for years been trying to induce the skepist to 
jump from his skep and brimstone pit to the bar- 
frame hive at one bound. At last, however, it 
is beginning to be acknowledged that to make 
haste slowly is the greater wisdom, and that 
when the skepist has been taught to drive his 
bees, when he takes his honey, instead of killing 
them, and to obtain the honey in a more inviting 
form, it will then be time to introduce to his 
notice the greater advantages of the bar-frame 
hive. S. S. G. 


Propolleatlon of frames.— I have four 
improved cottage hives and one wooden bar- 
frame hive. Its measurement is 12 inches high, 
15 inches wide, and 17 inches deep. The bars 
are made of wood, which have had the combs 
built in them, but the bees fastened them to the 
side and the top. I could not remove any of 
them. I should like “ S. S. G.” to tell me how 
the frame should be fixed. The bar-frame hive 
I paid one guinea for; the bars inside are one 
inch and a quarter broad, and half an inch be¬ 
tween each bar. I drove the bees from it in 
August.—D. H. S. [On the approach of winter 
bees Beal np every small crack and crevice about 
the hive with propolis, a resin-like substance ob¬ 
tained from the Horse Chestnut and the dif¬ 
ferent kinds of Pine. When frame-ends are 
accurately cut, it insures them being always 
in the right position, and the use of propolis by 
the bees is in great measure avoided. “ D. H. S.” 
will, however, find but little difficulty it parting 
the frames if he passes a stifi-bladed table 
knife between them. If the side bars are pro- 
polised to the hive, it is a more difficult matter. 
There should always be a full quarter inch pas¬ 
sage between the side bars and the sides of the 
hive, for if the space is less, the bees will fill it 
up with propolis, and all the advantages of a 
“ moveable comb hive ” be lost.—S. S. G.] 

WALL NAILS, GARDEN LOOPS, EYES, 

¥v to, best quality. Small quantities delivered free, 10s. 
per cwt. Special quotations for [larger lots. M»kera of 
Garden Furniture.—KETLEY.GLENDAY, k GO., Corpora¬ 
tion Street. Birmingham. 

WAKE S NEW SINGLE DAHLIAS of 1883, 

V Y including the beautiful striped and edged vars.. which 
were so much admired last season, Is. per packet; vara, of 
1882, 6d.—W. COAD, Mannamead, Plymouth. 

S "THONG AUTUMN~SOWN PLANTS.— 

Cauliflower, September-sown, sample 60. Is. 9d.; 120, 3e. 
Cabbage, Kale, or Borecole, Brussels Sprouts, Onions, Let¬ 
tuce. Endive, 4a. 60. 9d.j 120, Is. 3d. Herbs, twenty best 
■varieties, 30, 2a. 6d.; 120, 7s. ; carriage paid. Any quantity 
supplied ; write for special quotations for large quantities, on 
rau or carriage paid; list on application. — EDWARD 
LEIGH, Wrotham Farm, Dunsfold, Godalmicg. 


Brocaded Silk Handkerchiefs 

DIRECT FROM THE LOOMS. 

Buy from the manufacturers and save trvoprofits. 
500,000 sold in 1883, and 50,000 
Testimonials received. 

R. TH0MP80N * CO. beg to thank the readers of this 
paper for their support, and to announce th«t since they lirst 
commenced to offer ttoeir beautiful Handkerchief to the 
public, they have supplied them to the Queen's Palace at 
Windsor down to the humblest cottage in the land. Not 
content with this success, we shall not be satisfied until every 
person in t he United Kingdom has purchased one of our beauti¬ 
ful Handkerchiefs. They are richly brocaded in designs ot birds, 
flowers, ferns. &o.. and may be had in thirty different colours, 
including the latest. They are a choice present for a lady or 
gentleman, useful for the neck or pocket; size 28 inches 
square, while the softness, elegance, and delicacy of them 
make them preferable to the finest cambric, and for durability 
they cannot be surpassed. A list of Testimonials forwarded 
to any address on receipt of one Btamp. 


COUPON 


Addre&ti.. 


We guarantee to send one handkerchief as advertised 
above on receipt of P.O.O. for Is. or 13 Btamps ; 2 for 2<. 
or 24 stamps ; 6 for 5s., or 60 stamps ; 12 for 9s., or 103 
stamps Money to be returned if goods fail to meet 
approval. 

Signed THOMPSON 4 CO. 


P.O.O. TO BE MADE PAYABLE TO 

R. THOMPSON & CO., 

COMMERCIAL BUILDINGS, STOCKPORT. 


A MATEUR’S GUIDE and select Catalogue of 

Vegetable and Flower Seeds, Potatoes, Gladioli, and 
other bulbs and flowers for spring planting, with concise, re¬ 
liable instructions for their successful cultivation, both for 
eihibition and ordinary use ; new edition, entirely re-written 
and brought down to the present date ; now ready, gratis and 
f ree b y pos t.—8TUART h MEIN, Kelso, Scotland. _ 

T7EGETABLE SEEDS of the choicest quality, 

V Bent free by parcels post or rail to any part of the king¬ 
dom and in any quantity. All the leading novelties usually 
offered at very high prices can be obtained by amateurs In 
smaller quantities at cheap rates, while in every case the true 
article will be supplied—STUART 4 MEIN, Kelso, Scotland. 

T7LOWER SEEDS—Oar noted strains of Asters, 
L Stocks, Antirrhinum. Marigold. Mimulua, Pentatemon, 
International Prize Cockscomb, and many other choice 
flowers of which we make a speciality have taken hundreds of 
first prizes throughout the country, and have reoeived the 
highest praise for quality by the whole press. Special direc¬ 
tions for growing and exhibiting are given in our Amateurs! 
Guide for 1884.—STUART 4 MEIN, Kelso, Scotland. 


DOTATOES.—Our catalogue contains all the 

A beet varieties for exhibition and table use, and includes 
the best of the new sorts shown during the past year. Henry’s 
First Early is a grand new Potato now being sent out, and 
is the earliest of all, splendid quality and heavy cropper ; 
3s. 6tL per peck: collection of 6 show varieties. 1 lb. each. 
3s. 6d„ free.—*TUART * MEIN, Kelso. Scotland. 


HLADIOLI, LILIES, TIGRIDIAS, TUBE- 

R08E3, and many other choice flowers for planting 
both outside and inside during the spring months, form part 
3 of our Amateurs’ Guide. Our stock of Gladioli is one of 
the largest In the kingdom, and lovers of these gTand 
flowers will be glad to learn that moBt of the newer sorts 
ate reduoed in price about 50 per cent, prises : per dozen. 
4s , 6s., 9a., 12s., 18a„ to 30s., free.—STUART 4 MEIN, 
Kela o, 8c ot laud. 

•"PHE LYON LEEK. — This splendid show 

•4 variety has again taken numerous First Prizes through¬ 
out the country during the past jear. It mature* early and 

B ows to an enormous size, the blanched part being from 
inches to 20 inches in length, and over 3 inches in diameter, 
firm and solid as the finest Celery, and aa white as enow. 
The true variety can only be obtained in packets bearing our 
name. Price Is. 6d. each. Trade supplied.—STUART 4 
MEIN, Kelso, Scotland._ 


EXHIBITION ONIONS-—Amateur’s collection 

JJ of the most noted varieties of Onions, including the 
true Rousham Park Horo. Excelsior. Trebon's, Banbury Im¬ 
proved. Warminster, and Walker’s Exhibition, six varieties, 
per collection. 2s. 6d. and 5s. ; each variety, per packet. 64. 
and Is.—STUART 4 MEIN. Kelso. Scotland. 


GEO. COOLING & SON, 

M Merchants 

IB A T II. 


Seed Department: Specialities. 

Cooling’s Ne Plus Ultra 
Dwarf Bean, 

The earliest and most productive forcing variety in 
existence. In sealed pints, 2a. 6d., post free 2s. 9d. 

Cooling’s Leviathan Cos 
Lettuce, 

The beat variety to sow now; an improved variety of 
Bath Cos, grows to an immense sfze and very hardy, por 
packet, Is., post free. 

Cooling’s Improved Tele¬ 
graph Cucumber, 

A splendid variety, the best for early work, invaluable 
for the market or private grower ; in packets, Is 6d. 
and 2s. 6d., post free. Veitch’s Tender and True, extra 
fine stock, per packet, Is. 6d. and 2s. 6d., post free. 

Cooling’s Improved Broad 
Windsor Bean, 

The largest and bi oadest variety of Bean In cultivation 
per quart, Is. 

Cooling’s Superb Single 
Dahlias 

Have been awarded First Prizes wherever exhibited ; the 
strain is undoubtedly one of the finest extant. 

Per pkt. 

Finest mixed seed, saved from upwards of 
60 new and beautiful kinds _ .. 6d , Is., & la Gd. 

White Queen (true) .6d. <fc Is. 

Paragon „ 6d. & Is. 

Scarlet „ 6d. Is. 

Yellow „ .. .. M M Gd. & is. 

Excelsior, a grand new variety which comes true from 
seed, colour rich velvety black, flushed bright crimson; a 
grand novelty, la. 6d. 

Cooling’s Prize Pansy, 

Splendid show and fancy varieties saved from a splendid 
collection, per packet, Is. 

Cooling’s imported Asters, 
Stocks, Wallflowers, &c., 

Are unrivalled. Full particulars in new Illustrated Seed 
Catalogue, gratis and post free. 


EXHIBITION PEAS-—Amateur’s collection 

AJ of tin best new varieties, including Evolution, Paragon, 
Duke of Albany, Telephone, Bruoe Findlay, and Culver- 
well's Giant Marrow, six varieties, per collection, 2s. 6d. and 
5«.: each variety, per pajket, 6d. and Is—STUART 4 MEIN, 
Kelso, Scotland. 


TJXHIBITION FLOWER8.—Superb striped 

AJ French Marigold. Is.; Orange and Lemon African 
Marigold, 6<L each; Antirrhinum, 6d ; Pentbtemon, Is.; 
Mimulus, extra. Is. ; International Prize Cocksoomb, Is and 
2s. 6d. ; Victoria Aster. Is., 2s. 6d.. and 5s.; Prize Quilled 
Aster, Is. and 2s. 6d. ; Giant Tree Ten-week Stock. Is and 
20-60. • Balsam, Is. and 2a. 6<1. ; Begonia, Is. and 2s. 6d.- 
8TUART 4 MEIN, Kelso, Scotland. 


OTOTTS MONARCH RHUBARB.—We offer 

strong roots of this gigantic variety free by Parcels Post 
at 2s. 6d. each. The stalks are about 3 feet in length and over 
4 niches in diameter at the bass, weighing 5 lb. to 7 lb. each • 
flavour exquisite, and keeps long fit for use; an excellent 
variety for jam, and the finest of all for exhibition.—STUART 
4 MEIN, Kelso, Scotland. 



MAGIC LANTERN, 7s. 6d_, includes 38 

J ictures of “ Qulliver's Travels.” Larger 
Os. 6d., £1 Is., to £10 10s. Catalogue 
of Magic Lanterns and 6000 slides, 4 
stamps. Catalogue of CONJURING 
TRICKS, 4 stomps. Catalogue of 
MODEL STEAM ENGINES. 4 stamps. 
Millikin and Lawley's MAGAZINE OF 
NEW INVENTIONS, Preeente. Toy* 
Games, Jokes, and Fun. KING CHRISTMAS. Grand 
Christmas Number, 2000 Engravings, Is.; pest free, 16 steams. 
MILLIKIN 4 LAW LEY, 165, STRAND, LONDON. 


faery Deplrat: Specialities. 

GEO. COOLING <fc SON have many thousands of 
Roses of all descriptions suitable for Bpring planting 
they will be pleased to forward post free their Nursery 
Catalogue, which contains a full descriptive list, aud 
also of Clematis and climbing plants, fruit trees, ever¬ 
greens, shrubs, &c. 

Choice Rose Trees. 

One dozen beautiful varieties of bush Roses suitable for 
the villa garden, free by parcels post for 9s. ; extra 
strong and hardy plants and choicest kinds ; 30 equally 
choice free by rail for 21s., 50 for 35s., 100 for G0S. 

Standard Roses, 

The best varieties, straight stems and large handsome 
heads, per dozen, 15s. Gd. ; one hundred, £5 10s., all 
carriage free. 

Marcchal Mel, Glome de 
Dijon, Devoniensis, 

and other extra large climbing Roses with long 
for immediate effect, 2s. 6d., Ss. Gd., and 5s. each. 

Grape Vines. 

Strong planting canes, 3s 0d. and 53. each ; extra strong 
fruiting canes will each bear three to six bunches with 
ordinary cultivation the first season, 7a. 6d. and 10s. 
each. List of varieties on application. 

Trained Fruit Trees for 
Walls, &c., 

true to name, well rooted, and carefully trained, com¬ 
prising all the most popular varieties of Peaches, Nec¬ 
tarines, Apri- ots, Cherries, Plums, Apples, Pears, &c. 
Descriptive catalogue p t free. 


GEO- COOLING & SONS, 

Seed Merchants and Nurserymen, 
BATH. 






GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 



B.S.WILLIAMS 


OWN 

NOVELTIES IN SEEDS 

FOR 1884. 

POST FREE. 

The followingNoreltiea nre ncir being offered, and they are fat in 
advance of anything hitherto off,red in their r<*/wrt*r« efasw*. 

Per packet—s. d. 

Cyclamen gigantemn roseum •• •• • • ‘3 

Cyclamen penicum Crimson Kin* ., •• •• 3 

Dianthu* chinensla Heddewigi Brilliant .. •• 1 

Lnoulia gratiuima .. .. •> •• •• 2 

Primula ainenala flmbriata Rote Queen .. .. 3 

Melon, Baaing Park Hjbrid.. .. •• •• 2 

Tomato, William* Ne Plua Ultra .. .* •« • 


ILLUSTRATED SEED CATALOGUE 

irOH. 1884= 

Ha* note been poated to ail cunt-mera , another copy will be 
foneirded gratia and poet free on apjdieation to any rho may 
not yet have received a e»j>y 


[UPPER HOLLO WAY, LONDON ■ N. 


PLANTS AND FLOWERS FOR SPRING. 

JOHN H. LEY, 

NURSERYMAN, WOODSIDE GREEN, S.E., 
can aupply, in remarkably fin* sample*, the following Bulba 
and Plan** for sn-ing planting and greenhouse uccoration, 
and for the produiiiou of early flowers. Clean and healthy, 
aud. aa regard* gre-'iihouae plant*, grown in a low tempera¬ 
ture to ensure safe travelling. 

Greenhouse Plants. 

12 Azalea niolU*, full of bud* .. .. •• • 

12 Qardeui* florida, fire to eight bud* set, 5-inch pot* 

12 „ three and four bud* set „ 

12 Tree Carnation*, showing dower. 

12 Hue harm amazonica flowering bulb* ., .. 

12 Amaryllis, enormous bulbs, G-iucb pot* .. . 

12 l toraa. six finest sorts . 

12 Tea Rosea. be?t sorts, strong 
12 Arabs*. Palm*. Dracana*, Ac., for table .. 

12 Maidenhair Feres, strong ,. .. .. • • 

(Ail above established in 3 inch pots). 

Hardy Plante. 

12 Carnations and Piootees, named sorts.3s. 

12 Fyrctbrums, single or double . 

12 Phlox, named sorts.’*• 

12 Campanula*, six Ane*t sort* .” 

12 Delphiniums, named Iclump*) .. .6a 

12 Ivies, gold, sliver, and fiaely oerrated.&•. 

12 Dsutzia gracilis for forcing .6s 

12 Potentillas, dirtinct .. .. .. • • •• •• «- 

12 Creeping Veronicas aud Phlox, for rockwork .. 4a 

12 LUlum tigrinuin *plendt?ns. 10 Inches round .. 6 j. 

12 Lady Fern*. crested sorts .. . • ..**• 

12 Rosea, H P. a, very flue sorts, ani plants .. #. 

Small Greenhouse Plants. 

The following are all first rate plant*, in sunll pots, tit to 
pot into 5 insb pota directly, to make fine plant* m a fow 
months _ 

12 Dracaenas, all distinct sorts .» 

12 Adlantums „ ..$*• 

12 Maranta*. Alocuias, EucharU, Ac.6s. 

12 Orchids, all distinct .. .. .. .. • • _•• *U. 

100 stove and greenhouse plants, seventy-five fine sorts lu. 
100 „ ,, Ferns „ .. 

10 a hardy horbaceoui and ronkwork plants,hundred sorts 21*. 
All packagtM gratia Jett cut with order Liberal allowance 
of plant* to pay carriage 

J. H. LEY, Royal Nursery,Woodside Green, S.E. 

Five minute* from Woodside Station, 8.E R ; and ten 
minutes from Norwood Junction, L B A 8.C.R___ 

1 O MAIDEN-HAIR FERNS for 6s. 12 di«- 

IrW tinct sorts. Farleyexise, 8t Catherine, cultratum, 
cuueatum. braeiliense. curvatum. lunulatum. and many 
others. Any sort* not desired exoluded. In 3 luch and 
4 inch pot* Hamper gratis for cash.—J. H. LEY. Royal 
Nursery, Woodside Green. fl.K. 


21s 

184. 

9s. 

J2s. 

21s. 

4k 

a is. 
15*. 
21s. 
12s. 


oc STOVE AND GREENHOUSE FERNS, 

rw»J 10s. 64 A most select collection of 25 distinct, rare, 
aud beantif ut sorts in 3-lnch pots, fit for 6-lnch at once, aud 
will make tine specimens before summer. Hamper gratis^for 
c**h. Over 100 sorts at same rat*.—J. H. LEY, Royal Nur¬ 
sery, Woodtlde Green. 8.K. 


IQ SWEET-SCENTED GREENHOUSE 

JL *w PLANTS, 6s. Htephanotis. Eucharis. Rondcletia. Jaa- 
mmums, 3 sorts; Olero Jen iron, Anthurium. Ac. Hamper 
gratia for caih.—J. U. LEY, Royal Nursery, Woodside Green, 
8 E. 


RYBEB k 50H’8 


CHEAP! 


NEW 
CATALOGUE 




FLOWER SEEDS Our hp’cLUilite. 

Over One Hundred Varieties of Hrccnhousc Seeds, 
with Interesting Notes, &C..&C. 


From 


Stocks 


VEGETABLE SEEDS 

At prices studiously kept low. 

NOVELTIES in Flowers & Vegetables 

allsee dscarria^ 


An Interesting Catalogue ! with Good, Sens'ble 
Notes, Ac , GRAT IS in all Applicant* who enclose 
a Penny Stamp to cover pottage, 


RYDER & SON , M 


SALK, 

ANCHESTER. 


T ILIUM AURATUM, the queen of Lilies.— 

Ll Fine plump bulbs ; importation Just to hand ; per pair, 
Is. 6(1 : per half dot, 4s. Extra fine bulb*, per pair. 2*. 6d : 
per half dozen. 6*. 6d Also a few Lilinm narriai. the noted 
ouw Lily, at 3s 6d. per bulb ; one of the loveliest of leoeot 
introduction*: oarriage paid, with cultural note.—RYDER 
A BON, Sale, Manchester 

o TUHKROUS BEGONIAS, very nioe sound 

0 conns free per paroels post for 3s. 6d , 12 for 6*.. grownby 
one of th* most noted growers In Europe. This is an excellent 
time to start into growth to produce exhibition plant* early 
in the reason. Few amateurs know the beauty of these 
superb greenhouse plant*.— RYDER A BON, Hale, Man¬ 
chester. 

TJWARF ROSES AT CLEARANCE PRICES. 

1 J —The ground being urgently required, we offer the 
remainder of our stock of fine dwarf H. P. Roses, la exhibi¬ 
tion varieties at per half-dozen. 3* Gd.; per dozen, 6s. 6d. : 
per 25.12s 6d.; carriage free: most carefully packed, and 
guaranteed to arrive safe. We do not keep second-rate kinds. 
Have received this season very many flattering testimonial*.— 
RYDER A SON, 8ale. Manchester 


6 GLOXINIAS, very sound little roots, free per 
post fo i 2*. Gd., 12 for 4«. Seedlings from seed saved 
from the superb new kinds offered by Mr. William Bull, are 
just showing signs of growth and will make grand plant* this 
summer. Seed from Mr. Bull s renowned collection at 7tL 
per packet, free —RYDER A 80N, 8alr, Manchester. 


O LD GARBAGE ROUE.—We have eeenred a 

few plants of this immense sweetly scented, old-fashioned 
favourite, taoh Is.; Marshal Niel. fin* plant*, Is. 61. 
Gloire de Dijon, Is. each ; Red Gloire de Dijon. Is. 6d. each . 
Hwtet Briers, 9d. each. Also a few hardy To* Roses suitable 
for a south wall, at 1* each AM are carnage free. .Satis¬ 
faction everywhere.—RYDER A SON, Bale, Manchester. 


1WTARECHAL NIEL ROSES on own roots 

-Lid- 4 feet to 5 feet high — We have secured a stock of tine 
plants In pots from another grower fully as tall above the 
pot* as above, and some, indeed, taller. The pot* are now 
full of roots; the plants should be put into larger not* at 
ouce. Will repay directly for trouble and expense, lief ides 
recommending for pot culture, we also note how useful these 
will be to plant permanently in border to climb up roof of 
conservatory. Rent in pots, carefully packed in hamper and 
T ut on rail here, at 8a. each, 5s. Gd per pair, 15*. per half- 
dozen. Customers at very great distance can havo thuae 
plants shaken out of pot*, carefully packed, and free per par 
cals post at 3s. 6d. each.—RYDER A HON, Kale, Manchester. 


(Jan. 19, 1884. 

NTOVHLTY, 

ABU NDANCE PEA, 

For Small Gardens. 

ENORMOUS CROPPER, 

FROM 60 TO 100 PODS 
on each Vine. 

Sow Seeds 6 inches apart. 

Half-pint, sealed, 2a. 6d. 

Full description, with aketch, on application to 

HOWCROFT AND WATKINS, 

SEEDSMEN, COVENT GARDEN, LONDON. 


PEACHEY’S LILIES OF THE VALLEY, 

JD Giant Berlin variety, magnificent crowns, flower *arb, 
1*. 6d. dozen; fifty. 4«. 6d. ; 100, 8*. 6<L; free.-R. W. 
BEACHEY. KingakereweLL 

PEACHEY’S POLYANTHUS.—Real giants; 

dJ white, yellow, crimson, maroon, laoed. Small plants 
Is. 6d. dozen ; very large, 3* 6d. dozen, free. Bead, fiiMSt 
quality, 6d. and 1*. packet.—Ktngskerswell, Devonshire. 

saw 

_ay plant* in bloom said that they were unequalled. 
Fiuest double, warranted. 2s. 6d. and 5*. packet; finest ilnrl*. 
every colour represented. 1*., la. Gd., Is. 6d. packet. Sow 
from December to May Instruction* printed on each paokst. 
—Kingsk era well, Devonshire. 


PEACHEY’S BEGONIA SEED.-A11 who i 

D my plant* in bloom said that they were unequal 


PEACHEYS CHRYSANTHEMUMS.-Cufc- 

JD tiags, splendid collection. Incurved. Japanese, Tomponc, 
Is. 2d. dozen ; rooted plants, 2s 6d. dozen, tree.—B. W 
BEACHEY. Kingsk*rawed, Devonshire. 

B EACHKy .i hoses:—T welve new ud (elect 
varieties, including Helen Paul, Ulrich Brunner. VWette 
Bouyer 12* free: stroug plant*. List.—R. W. BEACHEY, 
Kingakerewelt. Devonshire 


F 1ACH E Y S SWEET VIOLETS.-Fia«t 

collection in England. Catalogue, with directions fsc 
oultur**. free.—Kingikerswell, Devon. 


T3EACHEY 8 PANSIES.—Finest named «ho* 

-L) aud f imy, 3s Gd. dozen. Beed, superb quality. 1*. Is. 6d, 


.IklitV 1 

1 kinds 


Is. 6d. 


2*. Gd. packet Uedding Violas and Pansies, pi 
dozen. Seed, all colours, 6d. and Is. packet Ail 
se eds.- R. W BKACI1KY. K. , r *kerew ell. Devon. _ 

7„ CJ COLLECTION of vegetable seeds 

/ O' Utl. contains a* follows ; 1 qt Poas of sorts; 1 
ut. Broad Brans. 1 p«, French Beans of *ort*, fox Carrot, 
2 os onion. 1 oz Parsnip. 1 os Muvtard. 1 ox Cress 1 o*. 
Tu-nlp, 2 oz Radish and liberal packet* each of Cabbage, 
L'auhtl iwer. Broccoli, davoy, Kale. Parsley. Celery. Oocmn 
her. Marrow, Brussels Bpronta, a r d Tomatoes. Oaril»*e 
free 7a Gd. Half quantity, 4* Hundreds of Tsrtimooiali 
for our seeds.—0. SHILLING, Seedsman Wtoehlleld. 
Hant*. _ _ ' r 

T Wofc.^CE HEI: racket.—F low* is 

of finest quality AJ1 from from best strain*. Cannot 
besurpaaied. German Asters, Ten-week Stock, single Dahlia*. 
Tuberous Begonia Baleain. Sweet Pea*. Carnation Acacia. 
Fern* C^rjsauthemmn. Cineraria, Primula. Niootlanaafflnis, 
Lobelia, Petunia. Salvia, Gloxinia*. Oiclamen, Oileu*. Cal 
c?olaria. Musk Verbena. Zinnias Ornamental Graesss 
Is worth aud upwards post free —0. 8H1LLING, 8*sd»- 
rna j. Wiochfleld. Hant* FLOW 

12 SEEOS [lost (i.e 1 j 30.1 h6it mi.litf onlj Otria 
and Flower Seed Catalogue gratis —TURNER, Wetherty. 
Yorks _ -- 

JOHN PIGG0TT. 

Pirate send Jor Price IActi, poet free. 

GARDEN HOSE. 


1.) CARNATIONS AND ITCOTEES, named 
1 ht sorts. Gs. Strong plant* in 4 In ah pots, grown lu open 
ground all summer, fit for foroing or garden at once*, Red 
brae's Bride. Souvenir du la Malinaison, Parity, Prince of 
Orange, and other*, distinct llsx gratis, or sent out of pots 
by parcels post if di sired. —J. H. LEY, Royal Nursery,Wuod- 
alde Green. 8 R._ 


ROSES.—SPECIAL OFFER. 

Standard H.P.'s, 10*.; Bosh H.P.'*, 6*.; Mo*a,5«.; Bush Tea- 
scented and Noisette, 8a.; Climbers. «a. per dozen Our selec¬ 
tion. First-rate plant* and boat varieties, Cheaper per 100— 
A. MOFFAT A BON. Botauio Nurseries, Biggleswade. Bed*. 

Digitized by Google 


A MATEUR’S FRIEND is now ready for 18S4, 

A and will be sent, post free, for three stamps. 

N> w Catalogue of cuttings is now ready foi 1884, all the 
choicest Chrysanthemums. Fuchsia*, Geraniums, Abutiloos, 
Ac. post free for threw stamps. 

New Catalogue of plants i* now ready for 1884 It contains 
all the choioest Chrysanthemum*, single Dahlias, Kuchmas— 
all the choicest In commerce, -single and double Geraniums, 
Abutilons, k c . post fr>-e for three stamp*. 

Chrysanthemums. 12 choice incurved varieties. 2*. Gd.; 12 
choioe Japanese varieties. 2* 6<L ; 12 choice Pompons, 2s Gd.; 
12 varieties for summer flowering. 2*. 6<L, 14*. per 100 , cuttinin 
half-price. 

Fuchsias, 12 choice double varieties, 3*.; 12 choioe single 
va ietlea, 3*. ; 12 choice varieties for bedding, 2s. 6d.; cuttings 
half-prici 

Geraniums of sterling merit, 12 choice aiugle varieties, all 
recently new. 6* : 12 choice varieties, 4*. ; Li varieties for 
winter dowering. 4* ; 11 choice double varieties, all recently 
new, 6s ; 12 choioe varieties, 4*. ; choice selection, 20*. per 
1U0; cuttings half-price. 

A tmtUons. 12 choioe varieties. 4*.: 6 choice varietlea, 2s. 6<L: 
3 choioe varieties, Is. 6d ; cuttings ha!f-prioe. 

Flower seeds. Genuine seed* in peony packet* sod upward* ; 
100 packets, 7a ; tt> packets, 4a ; 12 packet*, la, post free. 

J. JAMES. Florist and Seedsman, South Knighton, Leicester 

i ' 



60 feet f 1-ply Hose, with Fittings 1, 2» 1 

complete, 20s. 9d. 

Fitting No. 3, to go on any tap, from 

Patterns or Hosg bent on AtpucatioS, 

AU paroela over 10*. carriage free to any part ej 
la ltd, Scotland, Ireland , or Walca. 

115.116. and 117. Cheapside, London. 

A ccidents i—(U. Comhiii.—N o mu u mb 

from accident* I Wiso men in*ore against 
Accident* by land or water injured apalutt by RAlLWk* 
PASS BN OERS* ASSURANCE COMPANY. -Appl/tf 
Clerks at the Railway Stations, lb* Local A^rnt^M'- 
Grnnd H->Ll llulldingsl Charing Cross, or at U-* 
Office. 4. Cornhfll, London.— Willi aj*J.Vi*n, Secrvtzh 

NIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 






































































GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED 


Voi. V. 


JANUARY 26, 1884. 


No. 255. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

( Continued from pajc 507.) 

Tree Carnations. 

These are so sweet and beautiful in winter, 
especially for catting, as to be quite indispen¬ 
sable. They are easily grown, too ; a loamy soil, 
enriched with old cow dung, and sharpened 
with road grit, suits them well, and the way to 
procure plenty of flowers is to propagate plenty 
of plants annually, and plant them out in a bed 
of loam, lifting and potting in September. Thus 
a lot of young plants will always be coming on. 
The older plants may also be turned out into the 
bed of loam for two or three months in summer 
with advantage. It causes numerous shoots to 
break away, and to obtain plenty of flowers 
there must be a free growth. Cuttings or pipings 
putin early in spring, if well attended to, will 
make nice blooming plants by the following 
winter. The points of the leading shoots, or 
even the side shoots, will make good cuttings, 
and if inserted in pot) of sandy soil plunged in 
a mild bottom-heat any time daring spring, will 
quickly root, when they Bhould be potted off and 
grown in a close frame for a time. Cuttings 
will also root under a handligbt, or in a frame, 
any time during summer and autumn in a shady 
spot with more certainty even than in heat in 
spring. And snch plants, with the longer season of 
growth which the early start gives them, make 
grand plants the following year. Tree Carna¬ 
tions are easily raised from seeds, and with a 
good strain, the number of single or worthless 
flowers is very small. I saw last antnmn 
a batch of seedlings that had been raised 
from a packet of seeds purchased from a 
London bouse which contained superb flowers 
in pretty well a dozen different shades of colour 
between crimson, white, and yellow, their value 
for cutting being very great, the cost of the 
seeds being repaid manyjtimes over by the value 
of the cut flowers—La Belle, Prince of Wales, 
Exquisite, White Swan, Prince of Orange, 
Irona, La Favori, Covent Garden Scarlet, Souve¬ 
nir de la Malmaison, Duke of Wellington, Proser¬ 
pine, Princess Christian, Favourite, aud Miss 
Jolliffe are good varieties. Some of the best 
growers, such as La ISslle, for instance, are 
quite at borne trained on a wall in a light 
house, and they flower so freely in such a posi¬ 
tion, becoming, in fact, valuable climbing plants. 

Greenhouse Annuals. 

The Balsam — A mistake is made in sowing 
these too early, before other things, of which 
such numbers are now annually required, are 
sufficiently out of hand to permit of justice 
being done to them, and if such things ae 
Balsams and Cockscombs are starved at the 
beginning, the Balsam at least never gets over 
it. If sown about the first or second week in 
April, pricked off when large enough to handle 
and grown on close to the glass, nice buvhy 
plants will be obtained. In the early life of 
the plant it is important that a good foun¬ 
dation be laid, which can only be done by 
keeping them in a light position near the glass. 
If the pots are partially plunged in a mild 
hot-bed, so that the foliage is near the glass, a 
strong sturdy base will be formed, which may 
afterwards by high feeding be converted into 
very fine specimens. They must never be per¬ 
mitted to become pot-bound till they are re¬ 
quired to flower, and all the first flower buds 
should be picked off Eleven-inch pota will 
suffice for good-sized specimens, as they will 
take very large and strong doses of liqnid 
manure. Abundant ventilation is necessary at 
all times, but especially as they approach the 
flowering period. The syringe may be used 
beneficially on the afternoons of fine days. 

In potting, at every fresh shift an effort should 
be made to sink the plants lower in the pots ; 
this tends to dwarf the plants by burying the 
stems; it also adds to the root force, as the 
buried stems soon throw out roots, which spread 
rapidly and prove most useful. The soil should 
be rich, but not too light. As the roots want 
something substantial to lay hold of, good 
sound loam, rather adhesive, and old hotbed ma- 

Digitizedby GOOglC 


nure, about half of each, will grow them to per¬ 
fection. To save seeds, gather the plants which 
are producing the best marked, the most distinct, 
and most perfect shaped flowers altogether at 
one end of the greenhouse. Usually at the time 
Balsams are in flower there are plenty of 
agencies at work to cross-fertilise without 
taking the tronble to do it ourselves. 

The Cockscomb (Celosia) is not so much 
cultivated as formerly, though when of a good 
strain and well developed there can be no ques¬ 
tion as to their effectiveness. The chief diffi¬ 
culty is in securing seeds of a really good strain, 
as the highly bred plants, which produce the 
largest, best shaped combs, do not produce so 
many seeds as those plants of inferior quality 
and breed. The only thing a would-be-grower 
of Cockscombs can do is to start with the best 
strain he can get, and by a constant and rigid 
selection of his stock and by saving his own 
seeds, he may hope in time to originate a good 
strain of his own, and he will soon find a de¬ 
mand will spring up for his seeds. This is the 
plan adopted by nearly all the best growers, 
and it is a system that may be followed 
with advantage in the case of every plant 
raised from seeds. The old-fashioned hot¬ 
bed made of fermenting materials is the 
best medium for the production of superior 
combs. The genial warmth and the atmosphere 
impregnated with ammonia seems just to suit 
their requirements. The seeds should be sown 
in March or April, and placed in the hotbed 
near the glass. Germination soon begins in the 
case of these seeds, and the closer the glass the 
young plants are kept after they show above 
the soil the better. Prick them off when large 
enough to handle singly in 2.1-inch pots, and 
plnnge again in the bed, as near the glass as 
possible, to keep them short of leg and strong. 
Some growers starve them in small pots to 
cause an early development of the comb, and 
then select the best and grow on rapidly. Tbis 
may suit those who cannot depend upon their 
seeds being good, and who have but limited 
space. But the best results are obtained by 
liberal treatment all through their existence. 
Good foliage cannot be had on the starving plan. 
The plants should continue in the hotbed till 
the combs are full grown, and then be taken to 
the greenhouse, where they will continue in 
perfection for a long time if no damp is per¬ 
mitted to lodge on them. 

The Pyramidal Cockscombs, with their 
long, feathery flower-spikes of different colours, 
are exceedingly ornamental ; indeed, this 
race has in a very great measure super¬ 
seded the old-fashioned Cockscomb, as surer 
results are obtained with less difficulty, and 
besides, there is a grace and beauty about the 
waving plumes of drooping yellow and crimson 
flowers that is absent from the stiff, awkward- 
looking, old-fashioned combs ; and although 
strain or breed has here also some influence, 
yet there is less difficulty in securing seeds of a 
good strain. A hotbed is the best position for 
the young plants in all their stages, though it is 
not so indispensable in this case as in the other 
section, as they will succeed in a genial tempera¬ 
ture near the glass without bottom-heat. For 
succession, sow a few seeds at intervals from 
March to the middle of June. They may be had 
in small pots for room decoration, or they may, 
if grown in a stove temperature with abundance 
of heat, moisture, and pot room, be quickly 
formed into handsome specimens 5 feet or 6 feet 
high, perfect cones of waving colour. Each plant 
should have one stake in the centre, to which the 
main stem should be tied, but no other training 
will be necessary, as the plants look best when 
the feathery side shoots are permitted to fall over 
gracefully. The plants intended for winter 
blooming should not have a lower temperature 
than from 55° to 60°, as they soon die if placed 
in a cool house, but when they have warmth they 
continue growing and retain their freshness 
nearly all winter. The soil should be rich, but 
it must be porous to allow the liberal suppliesof 
water (which the plants will need) to pass 
freely away. Turfy loam, six months oat, mixed 
with an eqnal portion of leaf-mould, with sand 


and charcoal enough to keep it open, will grow 
them to perfection. Save seeds from the hand¬ 
somest plants only. 

Mignonette. —Fill a number of 3-inch pots 
in April with light, rich soil, and into a slight 
hollow made in the centre of the pot with the point 
of the finger drop four or five seeds, cover them 
lightly, and place the pots in some warm position 
under glass. When the young plants appear, 
remove all but the strongest, and grow on near 
the glass. Each plant will require a small stake 
to support it, and to which its main stem should 
be tied regularly as it advances in growth. As 
fast as the roots occupy the soil shift into larger 
pots. As the days lengthen, a deep, cool, rather 
damp pit will be the best place for them, giving 
plenty of ventilation. All flowers should be 
pinched off as they appear till the autumn, and 
the required shape should be given to the plants 
as they progress in growth. The pyramidal 
form is the most natural, aDd requires the least 
amount of training. Keep the main stem pro¬ 
ceeding upwards, and allow the side Bhoots to 
spread out horizontally, pinchiDg a strong shoot 
where necessary. The Standard form is ac¬ 
quired by leading np the central stem to the 
required height, and pinching all side shoots 
to within an inch of the stem till the requisite 
length of stem has been secured; then by pinch¬ 
ing the leading shoots canse the npper buds to 
break strongly and form the bushy head. Very 
large-headed plants may require to be supported 
by a wire framework to prevent the shoots when 
large and weighted with blossom from breaking 
off. These elaborately trained specimens, if not 
allowed to produce seed, will last more than one 
year, but neat young pyramidal plants of one 
season's growth are the most satisfactory on the 
whole. When Mignonette is planted in a border 
of good soil in a conservatory, and not allowed 
to produce seeds, the plants assume a perennial 
character and grow to a large size; become 
shrubs, in fact, with hard ligneous stems. 

Another way of growing Mignonette for win- 
ter and spring blooming is to sow the seeds 
thinly in G-inch pots early in August, placing 
the puts in a cool frame. The soil should 
be rammed firmly in the pots, and be kept just 
moist, the seeds being sown all over the surface 
and lightly oovered. The soil should be two- 
thirds loam and one-third old manure; when 
the young plants are half-an-inch high, thin out 
the weakly ones leaving about half a dozen at 
regular intervals about the pot. The plants 
should be placed in tbs greenhouse in October, 
and encouraged to grow by placing them on a 
shelf near the glass. 

In addition to the annuals just named, there 
are others which are worth attention for pot 
culture in the greenhouse. Browallia elata bears 
a neat little light blue flower, freely produced 
all over the plant, which rapidly forms neat, 
dense bashes. Sow the seed in April, prick off 
and pot on till they occupy 6-inch pots, which 
will be found large enough to carry nice little 
specimens. Pinch in at first till a bushy habit 
has been induoed. Scbizanthus retusus and 
others are very useful when well done; they 
are best sown in autumn, and grown on steadily 
through the winter, pushed on in spring till 
large plants are obtained, when their chaste 
beauty will be sure to please. Dwarf Scabious 
are very useful for pot culture, especially for 
late blooming. Sow in the spring, shift on in 
summer with all flowers pinched off, and place 
in a greenhouse temperature in October. The 
flowers are valuable for cutting. 

PnLOX Drummondi is well worthy of pot 
culture ; five or six plants in a 3-inch or 6-inch 
pot, pinched and staked to correct their tendency 
to straggle. The plants should not be starved 
and neglected when yonng. The Everlastings— 
Rhodanthes, Acrocliniums, and Globe Amaran- 
thus—are all valuable when well done as pot 
plants, and are not difficult to grow. 8ow in 
spring in light rich soil in a hotbed, and after 
they are pricked off return the pots to the bed 
again, standing them on the surface without 
plunging them near the glass. The large- 
flowered Mimulus are also useful as pot plants, 
but they dislike bright sunshine; shade aud 






534 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Jan. 26, 1884. 


damp, in a cool situation, after they are fairly 
started, are the conditions under which they 
succeed best. Other annuals might be cited as 
adapted for pot culture; in fact all the neat- 
habited annuals may be so employed, but I do 
not want to make these papers unnecessarily 
lengthy. 

Mlacellaaeoua Greenhouse Plants. 

To describe minutely the culture of every plant 
commonly grown in a greenhouse would take 
up a deal of space, and at the same time in¬ 
volve a good deal of useless repetition. In the 
preceding chapters I have endeavoured to treat 
somewhat fully most of the principal families 
of both hard and soft-wooded plants, but out¬ 
side these are a vast cumber of beautiful plants, 
some of which are found—and deservedly so — 
in all gardens, and these we could hardly pass 
over without a brief notice. Aponogeton dis- 
tachyon, a pretty free-flowering aquatic, bearing 
violet-scented (Hawthorn) flowers,can be grown 
in a pan of water in the greenhouse in the 
greatest perfection. Pot in loam and plunge the 
pet in the pan of water. I have seen it grown 
in an earthenware pan snch as is commonly 
used in country places to hold milk. Keep the 
pan full of water by adding more as it evapo¬ 
rates. 

Abutilons. — These have lately undergone con- 
si lerable improvement, and the newer varieties 
are well worth looking after for pot culture. 
Among the best older kinds is Boule de Neige, 
the white flower3 of which are valuable at all 
seasons, The whole family are easy to propa¬ 
gate and cultivate. Cuttings of the young shoots 
will strike freely in spring and summer in 
bottom.heat. At the latter Beason a close frame 
or hand-light will suffice. The following are 
good varieties : Canary llird, Anna Crozy, 
insigne, miniatum, elegantissimum, Vesuvius, 
delicatum, and Yellow Prince. 

Erythrina Crista-galli (Coral plant).— 
This is a very showy and useful old plant for 
summer blooming. Afterwards when the wood 
is ripe it may be cut back and the roots be 
stored away under the stage out of the way, 
and kept nearly but not quite dry till the growth 
comes away again in spring. Soil.—Turfy loam 
enriched with old manure. May be planted in a 
group on the lawn or in the sub-tropical garden 
in summer. 

Kalosanthes.— A race of very showy plants 
bearing bright scarlet flowers, for the most part 
on the ends of stiff, erect, rather succulent 
shoots. Cuttings of the young shoots may be 
inserted in sandy soil in epriog and summer in 
gentle heat, or in the summer they will succeed 
in the greenhouse or frame, but the spring is 
the best time to propagate. Pot off when rooted, 
and pinch back when necessary to form a base. 
After a bushy habit has been formed, let the 
shoots grow up to ripen and perfect flowers. 
Cuttings rooted in spring if grown freely during 
the summer, pinched occasionally to create a 
dense habit, and wintered on a shelf near the 
glass, should flower freely the following spring 
and snmmer. Sometimes in order to create 
nice little specimens quickly, the cuttings are 
shifted on without being potted off. Turfy loam 
with a third part of leaf-mould and some sand 
and charcoal will make a suitable compost. The 
heads of bloom being heavy, should have neat 
supports placed to them before the flowers 
open. 

Rich ardia -ETHiorit’A is a most useful winter 
and spring flowering plant, with fine bold 
leaves; should be divided and planted out in rich 
soil in May, where a good supply of water can 
be had. They are often planted in trenches, and 
in dry situations the plan is to be commended ; 
should be lifted and potted in September. If 
the plants are well attended to, they may be 
grown always in pots, but should occupy an 
open situation all summer. I don't think it is 
advisable to keep these and similar things in the 
shade; they want sun to ripen their growth ; let 
them at the same time have plenty of water. 
The Richardia is, in fact, an aquatic. I have had 
it planted out round the edge of a pond, where 
it grew and flowered abundantly, and the winter 
never injured it. Of course, the water was deep 
enough to prevent the roots freezing. They are 
continually throwing off offsets, so there is no 
difficulty in working up a large stock. 

. riparium are 
ul>for winter 


Eupatorium ^jatytATUM and 1 
best for pots, 


um ODtytATUM and E 
s, and are jrort.user 


blooming. The flowersof odoratum are white and 
sweet scented, and are borne in large clusters in 
profusion for several months in the dull season. 
Cuttings of the young shoots should be inserted 
in spring in bottom-heat. When the young 
plants are potted off, pinch freely to induce many 
shoots to burst forth and create a bushy habit. 
About the end of May, plant out in a warm, 
sunny border, not in over-rich soil, following up 
the pinching till the end of July, all growth 
afterwards being left to form flowers. Lift and 
pot in September before frost comes. Keep in 
the shade for a few days, sprinkling often to 
keep up the foliage till the roots get into action. 
House in October. When the flowering is over, 
give less water for a time, then prune hard back 
and plant out again in May. Eupatoriums may 
undergo this process of cutting hard back and 
planting out for many years, until they become 
immense bushes, and are exceedingly valuable 
for winter flowers. Stevia Lindleyana and 
others, too, is a very fine useful family fora cool 
greenhouse in autumn and early winter, and may 
be treated as recommended for Eupatoriums. 

Veronicas are very useful autumn plants, and 
so easily rooted and grown that more need not be 
said about them. They are valuable town plants. 
Blue Gem, Imperialis, Mdlle. Claudine Villar- 
moz, Creme et Violet, and Le Gloire de Lorraine 
are amongst the best. Cuttings rooted early in 
spring will make nice blooming plants by 
autumn if well cared for. 

Rogieba gratissima is a valuable plant for 
winter, so valuable, indeed, that duplicates should 
be obtained of it. To ensure a floriferous habit, 
get the growth made early by growing it in spring 
in an intermediate house, cool down and place in 
the open air for a month towards the end of 
J uly, taking under cover before the frost comes. 
It bears large panicles or clusters of rose or 
blush coloured flowers, in appearance not unlike 
a Laurnstine, but more refined in effect. Makes 
an excellent standard trained to a single stem 
2 feet or 3 feet high, l'ot in loam and peat 
of fibry nature. 

Luculia gratissima is a very deserving plant, 
and although briefly noticed in the aiticle on wall 
plants, for which purpose it is well adapted, it 
is also a grand plant for planting in a border 
as a central object. Its immense trusses of rose- 
coloured sweet-scented flowers will be a special 
feature for several months in winter. It should 
be pruned hard back when the flowering is over, 
as the plant has a tendency to become leggy 
without serere pruning. It does well in peat and 
loam, and requires abundance of water when 
growing and blossoming. It does not take 
kindly to pot culture, and is not very easy to pro¬ 
pagate, although good propagators succeed with 
young shoots taken off with a heel under a bell- 
glass, and it may easily be increased by layering. 

Hydrangeas, when grown in pots, are 
exceedingly useful for greenhouse or room 
decoration. They are easily propagated ; the 
young tips of the shoots are often rooted in 
small pots after the flower bud at the end of 
the shoot has been developed, and thus a little 
plant in a small pot may be made to produce a 
monster truss of flowers. Excellent bushes 
covered with flowers may be had in 6-inch pots. 
Rich loam suits them best, with a propor¬ 
tion of old manure, although they are not par¬ 
ticular as to soil. Some growers aim to make 
the plants produce flowers with a blue tint, and 
to this end use peat impregnated with iron, or 
mix iron filings with the soil, or use water that 
contains iron in solution. 

Statices are useful and interesting plants, 
and possess this advantage, that the flowers may 
be cut and dried, and in that state are very use¬ 
ful, keeping their colour a long time. Cuttings 
should be inserted in sandy loam in a warm, close 
pit, or under a bell glass in a warm greenhouse. 
When rooted pot off singly, keeping close for 
a time till established, then move to an airy 
greenhouse. Soil, equal parts of peat and loam, 
with some sand and crushed charcoal to insure 
porosity. The pots must be well drained, as 
the plants require a good deal of water. All 
blossoms should be picked off plants intended 
for exhibition till the first week in February, as 
this ensures a good head of bloom when 
wanted. Holdfordi Frosti and profusa are good 
varieties. 

Salvias. —The tender sages are among the 
most showy of autumn and winter plants for 


the greenhouse. For the most part geod-sized 
plants may be obtained from cuttings in the 
same season, and therefore it is needless to save 
the old plants, except a sufficient stock to pro¬ 
duce cuttings, which should be struck like 
Verbenas in Match, potted off, and either shifted 
as they require more space, or else be planted 
out in the border in light, sandy soil, occasionally 
pinching in the strong shoots arid supplying 
them with water in dry, hot weather if they seem 
to need it. In September lift carefully and pot, 
using as small pots as the plants can be con¬ 
veniently put into, keeping them in the shade 
for a short time, and housing before the frost 
comes. The following are good varieties:— 
Salvias l’itcberi, splendens Brnanti, Bethelli, 
rutilans, coccinea, grandiflora, tricolor. 

The plants I have in these shoit notes briefly 
referred to may bo regarded as representative 
types, and it will be difficult indeed to find any 
soft-wooded plants that will not submit to the 
treatment of some of the sections. 

E. Hobday. 


HOUSE AND WINDOW GARDENING. 

CYCLAMENS IN WINDOWS. . 

At one time I considered the Cyclamen unfitted 
for window culture, but from what I have lately 
observed I have been induced to change my 
opinions on the subject. I do not find that the 
Cyclamen cares much to have a circulation of 
air round it in the winter time. It is a plant 
that is very sensitive to cutt ing winds or chilling 
draughts of every kind, but at the same time it 
cannot exist long in health in the confined at¬ 
mosphere of a constantly heated apartment, as 
therein the leaves soon become drawn, and the 
plant generally so enfeebled, that it loses the 
power to throw up its blooms, which perish be¬ 
fore they can emerge from the bud state. The 
proper place for this plant is a cool room, where, 
as is often the custom, a fire is lighted now and 
then just to air it and dry out damp. If Ibe 
window is light and the aspect fouthor east, the 
plant should do well, and throw up its blooms 
strongly and freely. From time to time it is 
advisable to take the plant out and well syringe 
or sponge the foliage, at the same time exer¬ 
cising care that no water falls down into the 
heart of the plant, as a few drops will suffice to 
cause decay in the bloom buds. Watering must 
be conducted with great care during the dead 
of the winter, and when the temperature is 
maintained at alow degree. The soil should be 
allowed to become almost dry, though by no 
means dust dry, and sufficient water is to be 
given to thoroughly moisten (he ball of soil. 
Plants in windows should always stand in a 
saucer, and water enough should be given to 
cause some of it to pass off through the drainage 
hole, which must be emptied away immediately. 
On the return of bright days more water must 
be given, and the foliage should never be 
allowed to droop for want of it. Generally 
speaking, Cyclamens are potted in too hold¬ 
ing a soil, and that is one reason why the roots 
are apt, when the plant comes into the hands of 
an inexperienced person, to suffer. The soil 
should be light and sandy, so that it cannot ocme 
into a sour close condition.—B. 


NOTES ON WATERING WINDOW PLANTS. 
Watering is a main feature in plant culture, 
and rather difficult to explain in writing. If 
the plant is too dry, the roots, as a matter of 
course, cannot attract sufficient moisture to 
counterbalance the evaporation which takes 
place through the leaves, consequently the plant 
droops, or as gardeners term it, “ flags." Again, if 
the plant is watered too freely, the soil around its 
roots becomes sodden and impervious to the air, 
the leaves turn yellow, and the whole plant gets 
debilitated aDd out of health. From this it 
will be seen that an equable state of moisture 
is desirable ; but practice, together with habits 
of observation, will soon teach the right system 
to adopt in this branch of plant culture. A wet 
soil is totally unfit for plant growing. A plant 
standing twenty-four hours in water is often 
irreparably injured. A Hyacinth, to be Bure, 
will live one season in water; but all the 
matter which goes to make up the flower is pre¬ 
pared the year before—and, after floweriog, tho 
bulb is exhausted and almost worthless. A good 
soil for plant growing, therefore, is not one 
which will hold water, but one in which water 


B 

t> 

b, 

i 




Jan. 26, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


535 


will rapidly pass away. The soil itself ought to 
be composed of minute particles, through which 
air spaces abound. The water must be just 
enough to keep these particles moist, and the 
air in the spaces is thus kept in the condition of 
moist air. The roots traverse these air spaces, 
and it is really therefore moist air which the 
roots of the plants require, and not water. 

If it were water simply which plants wanted, 
we should cork up the bottom of the hole in the 
flower-pot, and prevent the water getting away. 
Instead of this we try to hasten the passing of 
the water through as much as possible, by not 
only keeping the hole as clear as possible, but 
often by putting pieces of broken material over 
the hole to act as drainage. A plant will gener¬ 
ally be the healthiest, therefore, which wants 
water the oftenest. This will show that there 
are plenty of air spaces, and that the roots are 
making good use of them. If it does not often 
want water, it is in a bad way, and more water 
will make it worse. How often to water, then, 
will be according to how easily the water passes 
away. If, when you pour water on earth, it dis¬ 
appears almost instantaneously, it would be safe 
to water such plants every day. There are 
several methods which may be adopted in order 
to determine when a plant requires water, viz.: 
—By the general appearance of the soil, or 
feeling it with the finger. Tapping the pot with 
the knuckles. The pot has a sharp hollow 
sound or “ ring " when the earth it contains is 
dry, and a dull, heavy “ thudding " sound when 
moist. Take a pot of dry soil, and one recently 
soaked with water, and try this experiment. 
By lifting the pots and testing their weight, 
wet soil being of course much heavier than the 
same quantity when in a dry state. Fill two 
■■ pots with soil, water one only, and then lift them 
both for comparison. A little practical experi- 
a. ence will soon enable any one to tell when 
plants are dry by each or all of the above 
methods. 

Always use soft (i.e., rain or river) water in 
preference to that from wells or springs. In 
towns where water is supplied by the corpora¬ 
tion, expose it to the sun in a wide tub or other 
vessel for a day or two before using it for your 
plants. Never use cold water. Water for plants 
should be equal in temperature to the atmo¬ 
sphere of the room, case, or frame in which they 
are growing. Never water a plant that is already 
wet; but when a plant is dry, give it sufficient 
o to moisten the ball thoroughly. When the 
compost gets very hard and dry, the pot may be 
3 plunged in a pail of water, and allowed to re¬ 
main until the air-bubbles cease rising to the 
surface. If a plant is growing, and the pot is 
well drained, it is nearly impossible to water it 
too freely. Plants require water less frequently 
during dull, damp weather than is the case 
during the heat of summer, when the sun is 
powerful and the light intense, and they are sub¬ 
ject to more air. 

Water for Byringing or sprinkling should be 
pure, and quite free from mechanical impurities, 
as chalk or lime. Muddy water leaves spots 
and patches of dirt on the leaves after it has 
evaporated, and necessitates their being sponged 
clean. 


10881.—Oalla sethlopioa In windowB. 

—“Vera" wants to know how to manage a new 
i' bulb of this Lily. If “ Vera ” is in possession 
of such at present, by all means pot it at once 
in the compost previously stated, and keep it 
indoors and water very sparingly until it is 
well established. But to grow the Calla to 
perfection and bring about its true tropical 
character it should be potted or planted out 
about the end of May or early in June, fully ex- 

I posed to the sun. Keep it well supplied with 
water when it gets into active growth, which 
will be about the middle of July. If planted 
out, pot up early in September, taking care to 
get a good ball of roots. Water at once 
thoroughly, remove to a warm room, and sprinkle 
water over its foliage once or twice a day, 
for about ten days, when it will be established. 
Should it not show signs of flower before the 
end of November, keep it cooler rather than in¬ 
crease the temperature as the days shorten, as 
by so doing it will get what may be termed 
a resting period, and will flower much stronger 
in spring when the warm weather sets in.— 

, ! W. B. -> I | 

J Digitized by GOOgle 


THE COMING- WEEK’S WORK. 


Glasshouses. 

Examine Cinerarias, Calceolarias, and Pelar¬ 
goniums particularly, in order to see that they 
are free from aphides, for if a single plant be 
infested by them, they will spread in all direc¬ 
tions, giving immeasurably more trouble than if 
prompt means were taken to destroy them as 
they appear. There are many hard-wooded 
plants, such as Boronias, Polygalas, Tetrathecas, 
and Aphelexis, upon which aphides will live, 
although they do Dot thrive, and yet upon such 
plants, especially Aphelexis, they are much more 
difficult to kill than when upon plants for which 
they have a greater liking, so much so, that 
Tobacco smoke, when applied in strength and 
sufficient quantity to destroy them on soft- 
wooded plants, has next to no effect on them. 
In such cases nothing equals a couple of wash¬ 
ings with good strong Tobacco water, allowing 
it to dry on the plants and not washing it oil, as 
is sometimes recommended ; this will generally 
be sufficient to kill not only the mature insects, 
but also their eggs. A few Gloxinias and Achi- 
menes should now be started; pot the Gloxinias 
in good loam, to which add some sand and leaf- 
mould. Achimenes are best treated as follows:— 
Get some seed-pans, drain them, and let 
the soil used consist of three parts sifted loam 
and one-fourth of leaf-mould and sand. By 
using material of this description their roots do 
not get broken when shifting them into the pots 
in which they are intended to bloom. They will 
be ready for potting when they have grown 
2 inches. Both Gloxinias and Achimenes Bhould 
be accommodated with a temperature of not less 
than from 60° to 65 at night, with a rise of 6° 
or 8° during the daytime. Till they commence 
to grow and push leaves they must receive no 
more water than will keep the soil slightly 
moist; they are apt to rot if too much be given 
them. 

Pbepaisation fob potting —It is now time 
to see about potting some of the earliest started 
stove plants, and soil should at once be prepared. 
In all cases not only ought it to be in a medium 
condition as to moisture—that is, neither too 
wet nor too dry—but it is a matter of great im¬ 
portance that previous to use it should be so 
warmed as to bring it up to something like the 
temperature of the house in which the plants 
are growing, for to place a body of cold material, 
in the way in which it is frequently done, in 
contact with the roots, has a most injurious and 
stagnating influence on them ; but in thus pre¬ 
paring soil, great care should be taken that it 
is not overdried, as experience points to the fact 
that when soil is placed in close proximity to a 
heated surface whereby it becomes too dry, the 
essential elements of fertility are dissipated. To 
look thus narrowly at what might be termed by 
many trivial matters may seem unnecessary, yet 
it is attention to small details of this kind that 
makes the difference between complete or partial 
success. Where no convenient place exists for 
warming the soil, it may be put into boxes and 
placed over the hot-water pipes. If a calcula¬ 
tion be now made as to something like the quan¬ 
tity of peat and loam that will be needed during 
the next month or two in the repotting, it can 
with advantage be at once so far prepared by 
breaking it np with the hand, not sifting it, and 
reducing it to different sizes, in proportion to 
the large or smaller description of plants that 
require shifting. 

Caladiums and Poinsettias.— It is desi¬ 
rable to start these at two different times, by 
which means a portion may be had late in the 
autumn, with handsome, healthy foliage, at a 
time when the earliest grown plants have lost 
their colour. In potting it is well to consider 
whether large or small examples will be the most 
useful, for in no case is it advisable to over¬ 
crowd the pots, as, where this occurs, the leaves 
will not acquire their wonted size. They will 
succeed in either loam or peat, but the foliage 
possesesmore substancewhen grown in loam than 
in peat. Plants of these Poinsettias that have 
done flowering should receive no more water at 
present; they should be stowed away in any 
place where there is an intermediate temperature 
for some time, until they require to be started 
again into growth. 

Abdi 8IA9 are most useful when compara¬ 
tively small and fully furnished with leaves to 
the bare. Any that are getting too large and 


that hare lost their foliage should now be 
headed down and put into a brisk heat, where 
they will at once make several shoots. When 
these have attained a few inches in length, all 
but one can be taken off with a heel and 
struck. They will make good small plants much 
quicker than seedlings. The stools may then be 
partially shaken out, repotted, and grown on 
with a single stem, a way in which they look 
much the best. 

Amabyllises, Ac.— Where a good stock of 
these is grown it will be better to have them in 
succession than in bloom all together. A few of 
those that completed their growth earliest in the 
autumn, more particularly the deciduous species, 
if now subjected to a brisk heat, will push up 
their flowers quickly. The soil should receive a 
good soaking of tepid water, or, if the plants be 
plunged in a moist bottom heat, and water bo 
supplied in the usual way, it will be sufficient. 
Plants of Eucharis amazonica that have been 
rested with a view to coming into flower after 
those earlier started should be brought into the 
warmest end of the house, and if possible 
plunged in bottom heat, and if they are strong 
and in good condition, they will at once push 
into bloom- Imantophyllums, although more 
correctly greenhouse subjects, are very effective 
for general decoration brought into flower earlier 
than usual by the application of more heat. 

Cool Obchids. —The greater portion of the 
spring and early Bummer-blooming Odonto- 
glossums will now be pushing up their flowers, 
and continuous watchfulness will be necessary 
to see that these do not become a prey to slugs 
or cockroaches ; the latter sire not usually so 
troublesome here as in the warmer quarters 
afforded by the hotter houses, where they in¬ 
crease faster and find more congenial hiding 
places, but the slugs and snails need to be un¬ 
remittingly sought after, for, even if destroyed 
until there is no trace of any remaining, there 
are others that eoon find their way into the 
houses, come into existence from eggs already 
deposited there, or that get in with the potting 
or other material from time to time introduced. 
Such species as O. citrosmum, O. hastilabium, 
0. Phalsenopsis, O. vexillarium, and O. Roezli 
will need keeping in a warmer position than the 
least heat-requiring kinds. Masdevallias which 
have not yet completed their growth must have 
sufficient water to keep their roots thoroughly 
moist, for their requirements in respect to mois¬ 
ture are almost equal to those of real aquatics, 
and, provided the material in which they are 
grown is of a nature to allow the water to pass 
freely through it, the growths are generally 
finest where the most water is used. 

Flower Garden. 

Cabnations and Picotkes.— It ought to be 
well known that these do not seem to be in a 
dormant state, even at mid-winter. If the 
weather be mild they make root and slowly de¬ 
velop leaves. DuriDg frost so intense as to crust 
the soil in the pots growth either above or below 
ground must be suspended. Growers of these 
flowers do not give them that amount of atten¬ 
tion which they require during the winter months, 
and which is especially necessary in February: 
the plants sometimes begin to spindle for bloom 
the first week in this month; these will be early 
blooms, and, if the weather be mild, such plants 
should be carefully repotted into their blooming 
pots. The main collection will not be ready for 
potting until the end of the month. Have all 
the plants thoroughly cleaned before potting 
them ; dead and decaying leaves are unsightly, 
and must be carefully removed ; even in the 
best-managed collections they are to be found. 
If sparrows are numerous and short of other 
food they will peck the tender points out of the 
plants ; if so, it will be necessary to place a net 
over them as the best precaution, No trace of 
aphides should be allowed on the plants at this 
date; it is very dangerous to fumigate the frames 
after active growth has commenced. 

Dahlias and Hollyhocks.— If a Inrge 
stock of Dahlias is required the roots must now 
be placed in heat after they have either been pot¬ 
ted singly, or a number of roots placed together 
in suitable boxes. The best place is a forcing 
house, where the tempera: ure ranges from 60° 
to 55° at night. They may be placed over the 
pipes in Vineries or Peach houses, and started 
with them. The shoots start well and healthily 
over a bed of leaves or tan with just a mild heat- 
See that the leaves of Hollyhocks placed in heat ed 



536 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Jan. 26, 1884. 


houses do not become infested with red spider; 
injury is often caused by it before the discovery 
is made. Seedling or common sorts that were 
planted out in the autumn must not be quite 
neglected. If the plants have been mulched 
round the roots, this forms a safe hiding place 
for slugs, which will eat the leaves, and it is also 
very desirable to rnn the hoe through the ground 
if it is moderately dry. While fr03tslast nothing 
can be done. 

Phloxes, Ac.— Start the shoots of Phloxes in 
pots into growth in order to obtain early cuttings. 
The heat of a greenhouse will cause a very early 
growth. Shoots about 1 in. long may be slipped 
off and placed singly in very small pots. They 
will soon form roots, and grow away freely with 
a little bottom-heat.. Those in beds cannot re¬ 
quire any attention until the weather is more 
favourable. Pyrethrums, Delphiniums, &c, in 
beds, will be putting forth their very tender 
leaves as soon as the frost will allow them. See 
that they do not receive any injury from birds. 
The plants may be lifted and divided if it be 
necessary to increase the stock. 

Fruit. 

It is important that the pruning should be 
completed as soon as possible, for, to say the 
least, it seems unnatural to prune when the 
buds are expanding, and such an operation 
carried on then must tend, in some degree, to 
produce constitutional derangement. As regards 
neglected orchard trees, many would be the better 
for having their root and stem suckers removed, 
cankered branches cut off, and other branches 
thinned out, together with any long spurs, in 
order that the trees may have a chance of re¬ 
newing their vigour by the production of new 
wood ; any trees that are affected with Moss or 
Lichen should be splashed over with a mixture 
of soot and lime, a simple but sure remedy. A 
liberal surface dressing of either fresh soil or 
manure should afterwards be given, and even 
the first season the fruit will be so improved as 
to well repay the outlay. Autumnal planting 
of fruit trees is always'preferable, but if not 
done let all be in readiness for doing such work 
as soon as the state of the soil permits ; planting 
when the soil is in a sodden state is ruinous, no 
matter how well drained the soil may be. For 
obvious reasons, in stiff or clayey soils the 
plants should be raised a few inches above the 
ground line, but in light or gravelly soils they 
are best planted on a level with the surface, care 
being taken that in neither case the stems are 
buried too deeply. 

Vegetables. 

All other things being equal, a well-drained 
and deeply-trenched garden will yield double 
the produce of an undrained and badly-culti¬ 
vated one. The first neither suffers from wet 
nor drought. The crops can be got in at the 
proper time, and they require but little cultural 
attention afterwards, and that little is the more 
expeditiously accomplished owing to the work¬ 
able state of the soil in almost all weathers, 
consequently the crops are finer and earlier 
matured, whilst in a garden of an opposite 
character, seed sowing has to be deferred 
through the unkind state of the soil, and this 
late sowing, coupled with the slow progress 
made by reason of the water-logged ground, and 
the difficulties of culture through the ground 
getting hard and baked by the first dry weather, 
tends to show the economy there is in deep 
trenching and effective draining, a large pro¬ 
portion of which may be done in weather when 
it is not practicable to do aught else. No excuse 
should be attempted for the neglect of such a 
duty; moreover, an earnest determination to 
accomplish it will bring its own reward in the 
form of assured success. After a few early I’eas, 
Beans, and Carrots have been got in on a warm 
border, space for the main crops of Onions and 
Parsnips will require attention ; both of these 
flourish best if sown as early in February as cir¬ 
cumstances permit. Drill culture is greatly 
preferable to sowing broadcast for all kinds of 
kitchen garden crops. The space apart of the 
drills for Onions should be at least 12 inches, 
and for Parsnips 15 inches. The ground for 
Onions cannot be too highly manured or deeply 
trenched, but previous to sowing it should be 
rolled to make the surface firm. Parsnips, on 
the other hand, cannot have the soil too open, 
and the manure for these should be buried 
rather deeply, for no matter how much so they 
will search it out. ^.Surface manuring for these 

Digitize-: b> CjO glC 


has a tendency to the production of forked or 
malformed roots, so that it is better not to 
manure at all in soils of good or medium quality 
than to have it immediately under the top spit. 

Pus and Fbames. 

Fresh stable manure, sufficient to make a good 
bed for one or two light frames in which to 
raise Cucnmbers and similar plants, as well as 
for making beds for Radishes, Potatoes, and 
early Carrots, ought now to be got together; it 
is well to mix the manure with as much bulk in 
leaves, a3 when thus mixed it does not heat so 
excessively, is ready to use sooner, and keeps its 
heat better than when manure only is used. 
The material for these beds, whether it is 
manure alone or mixed, must be shaken, thrown 
into a heap , and watered if necessary. lathis 
state let it remain for five or six days, then turn 
and shake it, an operation which ought to be re¬ 
peated a second time in a similar way soon 
afterwards. Rhubarb that is growing must 
have plenty of water, for if neglected at all in 
this respect it will not come nearly so strong as 
if properly attended to. Seakale roots after 
being forced ought to be put in sand or ashes; 
if there be a scarcity of young roots for 
planting some of these will do when the time 
arrives for putting them in. A little Lettuce 
and Cauliflower seed should now be put in 
in boxes and placed in a house or pit in which 
there is a little warmth, if not in a coid frame 
in a sunny situation where, when the plants are 
up, covering material can be used for protection 
if required. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 

HYACINTHUS CAN DICANS IN POTS. 
Tiie culture of this plant in the open air has 
been frequently alluded to, but seldom has it 
been recommended for pot culture, a purpose for 
which it is admirably adapted. I grow it 



largely in pots expressly for embellishing the 
conservatory throughout July, August, and 
September—a season when plants like this 
Hyacinth are wanted. My plants range from 
2 feet to G feet in height, and carry on each of 
their stout, erect stems, waxy white bells from 
two to three dozen in number. Specimens like 
these intermixed with flowers of brighter hues, 
such as those of Lobelia cardinalis, Gladioli, 
which flower about the same time, produce a 
fine effect otherwise unobtainable. The flowers 
of this Hyacinth, in my opinion, rival those of 
the Tuberose and white Lapageria in purity and 
substance, and they emit a delicate perfume, 
and few plants possess such an elegant style of 
growth. My plan is to pot the bulbs, say about 
three in a G-inch pot, at intervals of a week or 
so throughout February and March, using good 
turfy loam mixed with a liberal supply of sharp 


white sand and well decayed leaf-mould. I 
place the bulbs about 2 inches below the surface 
and pot firmly. Until growth begins to appear 
water is withheld, except just enough to keep 
the soil from becoming dust dry. The pots are 
placed in a cool pit or frame heated at night 
only to keep out frost. After the leaves appear 
water is applied, gradually at first, but after¬ 
wards with a liberal hand, and this is the only 
treatment the plants receive until they come 
into flower, when they are removed to the con¬ 
servatory, where they remain in perfection for 
about three weeks. The three chief conditions 
needful in order to ensure successful culture are, 
plenty of light, plenty of air, and an abundance 
of water when once the plant has got fairly into 
vigorous growth. After the flower-stems and 
leaves have decayed, the bulbs are shaken ont of 
the soil, the offsets removed for propagating 
stock, and the old bulbs stowed away in a cool, 
dry place in dry soil in boxes until potting time 
comes round again in February. The reason 
why I pot at intervals is to afford a succession of 
bloom. G. 


RAISING GLOXINIAS FROM SEED. 

No one who has not been in the habit of raising 
seedlings of those plants can form any idea how 
much more vigorous they are than those raised 
from cuttings; and for merely decorative pur¬ 
poses they are far superior. Several years ago 
I saved seeds from a flower of great substance, 
and of a peculiarly rich dark crimson colour, that 
had not, so far as I was aware, been crossed 
with any other variety; but the seedlings pro¬ 
duced flowers of all shades of oolour between 
crimson, purple, and white, but not one like the 
parent; in this respect they are very variable. 
The plants we have now in flower were raised 
from seed about three years ago, and the largest 
are in 9-inch pots ; some of the bulbs are up¬ 
wards of 6 inches in diameter, and if we could 
have spared room to have given them a shift into 
12-inch pots, the plants might by this time 
have been much larger. Of course, I do not say 
the flowers are equal to those of the best-named 
varieties for exhibition purposes, but many of 
them are large and very pretty. I am, however, 
only speaking of them as decorative plants for 
winter. I like the erect-flowered kinds best, for 
they are more useful for cutting. The seeds 
should be sown in February or March in well- 
drained pots, In peat and sand; All the pots to 
within half an inch of the top; press down 
firmly, and make the surface quite smooth with 
the bottom of a small pot, giving at the same 
time a good watering. Sow the seeds thinly and 
evenly over the surface, and Bcatter over it a 
little silver sand. To check evaporation, and thus 
obviate too much watering, place on the top of the 
pots a little clean Moss. The seeds are so small 
that heavy waterings, would be likely to carry 
them down so deep as to prevent their growing; 
but by giving the pots a good watering before 
sowing the seeds, and a thin covering of Moss 
afterwards, very little water will be required 
till the seeds gemmate. As soon, however, as 
the seedlings are up, the Moss must be removed, 
and, when they are large enough to handle, prick 
them off into small pots, and grow them on in 
the stove or a warm pit shaded from sunshine, 
shifting them into larger pots when necessary. 
They will begin flowering about July or August: 
but if the object is to grow them for winter 
flowering, pinch off all blooms till October, when 
a few flowers may be obtained the first winter. 
About March gradually withhold water, and 
allow them to go to rest. In treating them as 
winter-blooming plants, of course they are at rest 
the principal part of the summer, therefore early 
in June they are moved out of doors, and laid 
on their sides in some partially shaded 
corner. And I find this cool treatment 
seems to agree with them, for the rest is more 
perfect, and when housed about the end of 
September, they have started into growth and 
are ready for potting. The second season, if ! 
well managed, many of the plants will measure J 
from 1 foot to 2 feet in diameter. In potting J 
them after the first year use a richer compost. 
We always use, for large bulbs, about a sixth p 
part of thoroughly decayed manure with the 2 
peat, and a liberal proportion of sand and small * 
lumps of charcoal to keep the soil open. When gi 
in full growth supply them freely with water, n 
and maintain a moist atmosphere, and when in » 
flower, water them twice a week with weak ij 
clear liquid manure. There is no difficulty in < 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



Jan. 26, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


537 


entirely changing their period of flowering by 
resting them in snmmer, and so having them in 
flower from November till March, and that, too, 
without any special forcing, but by simply re¬ 
versing their period of rest; but, as I previously 
stated, I find seedlings much more manageable 
in this respect than plants raised from cuttings, 
and there is a strength and vigour of constitu¬ 
tion about them that nothing seems to injure. 
Xhrips will attack them, and, if not stopped at 
once, will destroy them; the best preventive is 
a moist atmosphere, without absolutely dashing 
much water over the foliage, with mild Tobacco 
fumigations occasionally, whether insects are 
visible or not. Any one who has a few named 
varieties should select three or four of the most 
distinct, and cross them, save the seed, and give 
the ^seedlings a trial against the older kinds. 
Seeds of Gloxinias may also be purchased from 
most of our principal seedsmen. II. 


Culture of the Erica —The Erica must 
be considered one of the most valuable of all 
. the greenhouse plants; and there is no other 
family of plants so dissimilar. Were aDy per¬ 
son restricted to cultivate only one genus of 
plants, X feel assured the Erica must stand 
before all others for beauty, variety, delicacy, 
and succession of bloom ; in fact, it is only de¬ 
ficient of one thing, viz., that sweet scent that 
is so much sought after. There is, indeed, an ex¬ 
ception to this, for Erica odorata rosea has a 
most delightful scent. Their culture, too, is 
not so difficult as is thought • by some. My 
mode of growing the Erica is simply as follows : 
Supposing I purchase some small plants from a 
nursery, say in 3|-inch pots, in the month of 
February, they may then be potted into 5-inch 
pots, well drained with'potsherds and charcoal, 
covered over with pieces of turfy peat. The 
peat used is broken to pieces with a spade, but 
not put through a sieve, and is well mixed with 
broken stones or small potsherds. Ity mixing a 
portion of charcoal with the peat the plants so 
treated far surpass in growth any in which the 
charcoal is omitted. In potting, I always put 
alternate layers of peat and stones, or charcoal, 
being particular to keep the collar of the plant 
slightly higher than the level of the soil. After 
the plant is potted I place it on an airy shelf 
in the greenhouse, but water them with great 
caution for the first few weeks after potting, 
and do not allow any current of air to fall on 
them for the first few weeks, but keep the tem¬ 
perature of the house low by opening either 
the top or bottom lights, but not both at the 
same time; after a few weeks they will begin 
to grow freely, and may be exposed to as much 
air as possible. If intended for specimen plants 
a frame or pit will suit them well, where the 
lights can be drawn off at all favourable oppor¬ 
tunities, and after the month of May I always 
take off the lights at night when there is no 
sign of rain, as the dew appears to greatly im¬ 
prove their growth, and when the suu is very 
hot I put on the lights, tilt them up back and 
front, and shade them for a few hours during 
the middle of the day. In brief, all that I find 
necessary to grow Cape Heaths to the greatest 
state of excellence is rough, sandy peat, stones 
or crock), charcoal, plenty of pot room, the 
same amount of attention in watering as all 
other plants necessarily Tequire, all the light 
and air that can be given in their growing 
season, avoiding, if possible, fire heat by night; 
also I advocate a liberal application of the 
pruning knife.— C. Smith. 

Culture of Tuberoses.— The bulbs may 
be potted from January to June, but only a 
few should be reserved for tlie last-named 
period. From those potted in June we have bad 
flowers at Christmas, but from some cause or 
other we lost more than half of them in conse¬ 
quence of the buds turning yellow; but as one 
llower at that season is worth half a dozen in 
September, the time at which we had the bulk 
of the plants in flower, we had to be content. 
Anyone wishing to secure a few flowers at 
Christmas should place the bulbs, after being 
potted, in a frame, covering them over with 
2 inches or 3 inches of ashes or Cocoa nut fibre; 
a wooden shutter over them will be better than 
glass. Glass must be heavily shaded and well 
ventilated, the object being to retard them as wel I 
as to protect them from rain. When they start 
into growth raise 'hem ont of the material in 
which they are plunged, bat, they may remain 

Digitized by GO glC 


in the glass-covered frame until the temperature 
falls below 50° at night. When once started 
they must be pushed briskly on. They will re¬ 
quire a temperature of from 55° to 60° to enable 
ttem to expand their flowers in November and 
December. It is best to place one bulb in a 
4-inch pot, using soil consisting of three parts 
loam and one leaf-soil/with a sprinkling of sand, 
pressing it firmly round the bulb, which should 
be inserted half its depth in the soil. Ib 
is seldom that Tuberoses require water¬ 
ing until they start into growth; even 
then it must be judiciously applied. 

Over-watering has been productive of 
more failures than anything else. When 
once the flower-spikes are visible, tne 
plants must not be allowed to get dry, 
and they will be benefited by applying 
stimulants in a liquid form, which I prefer 
to using organic matter in the compost. 

It is seldom they all flower; one or two 
out of every dozen invariably fail with 
me as well as with others who have 
grown them largely. Bottom heat of from 
GO 0 to 70° will assist in reducing failures 
to a minimum, and it should be applied 
in the shape of a hotbed; thus the top 
heat can be kept comparatively low, say 
from 50° to 60°, and the bottom heat can 
be regulated by renewing the linings. 
Plunged in a moist hotbed, they seldom 
require water until they have grown 4 
inches to G inches. As sorts I have no 
partiality for one more than the other, 
and both Italian and American will be 
found good, i.e. t if bulbs are procured 
from a re 1 : able source. Tuberoses are 
subject to red spider, but in some houses 
they may be grown without a trace of 
it. When it makes its appearance water 
is the best remedy, applied by means of a 
syringe. The surface of the leaves being 
smooth, the insects are readily washed 
off.—W. P. 

Old Fuchsias. —Where these have 
been resting under stages, or in any out- 
of-the-way places, no time should now 
be lost in getting them started again 
into growth, as it is a mistake to leave 
them in such positions until they have 
wasted their strength in making weakly, 
blanched shoots that have to be cut off 
before any growths fit for forming cut¬ 
tings can be expected. The plan we adopt 
is to set the plants in as light a position 
as possible, where the temperature is 
about 60° degrees, cutting out any dead or 
weakly shoots, and topping the straggling 
branches back to where the wood is pretty well 
ripened. The soil is kept moist, and an 
occasional syringing overhead given on fine 
sunny days until the young shoots are about an 
inch long, when the roots are shaken clean out of 
the old soil, and immediately repotted in clean 
pots and fresh soil, the compost we use being the 
top spit of an old pasture, a little thoroughly 
rotten manure, and silver sand enough to keep it 
open. The plants are then returned to a moist, 
genial temperature, ranging from 50° to 60°, 
where they make sturdy shoots, the points of 
which make excellent cuttings, which if grown 
on briskly make nice bushes by the autumn. If 
required to be grown into large specimens the 
flowers must be kept pinched off, and the plants 
shifted’into larger potsjbefore the roots get much 
crowded until the desired size is attained. Then 
set them in the position they are to flower in, 
and give copious supplies of liquid manure, and 
few plants in the whole range of those cultivated 
for their flowers can excel, or even equal, the 
Fachsia. —J. Groom. 

Pot ting-off cuttings. —Many plants ac¬ 
quire a weakly habit from being confined too 
long in the cutting-pots. The moment the roots 
have pushed from the roughly callused wound 
is the best time to pot and start each pot on its 
separate existence. The importance of this is 
too often overlooked, and valuable time is lost. 
When the roots are loDg and matted together, 
it is impossible to disentangle them without the 
plants receiving a severe check. If potted of! 
when the roots are not more than \ in. long, 
there will be very little disturbance of growth. 
The saving in time, if much potting has to be 
done, will be considerable. It may not be always 
possible to carry out this plan exactly at the 
right moment, but it is well to bear it in mind 
as the right practice.—H. 


Vegetables. 


WHITE DUTCH OR CASE-KNIFE KIDNEY 
BEAN. 

This is a very vigorous growing variety, attain¬ 
ing a height of 9 feet or more; stems green 
and thick ; leaves very large, of a deep green, 
crimped; flowers large, white, passing into Nan¬ 
keen yellow, and forming long bunches. Pods 



The Case-Knife Kidney Bean. 

straight, sometimes undulating on the sides, 10 
inches to 12 inches loDg, and containing eight 
or nine Beane each, numerous, produced in suc¬ 
cession for a long time, especially when the 
first are gathered green. Beans white, shining, 
kidney-shaped, very like those of the naricot de 
Soissons, but more regular in shape and one- 
third less in size, seldom exceeding three-fifths 
of an inch in length. They ripen very slowly. 
The young pods may be used as green Haricots. 
The Bean, when used fresh from the pod, is one 
the best; it is also very good when dried. This 
is certainly one of the best varieties. The only 
objection to it is that it requires very long 
stakes when growing. The Germans cultivate a 
great number of sub-varieties of it, characterised 
chiefly by having broader and straighter pods, 
but, notwithstanding numerous trials, we have 
never found any to surpass or even to equal the 
variety here described. It is the most tender 
and also the most productive.— 1 'd mo r In'a "Lcs 
Plantes Potagires.” 


AUTUMN-SOWN ONIONS. 

Wheee new Onions are wanted earlier in spring 
than can be had from seed sown now or daring 
the next two months, there is no better way of 
seenring them than by sowing seed in the 
autnmn, getting a good batch of young plants 
up then and cultivating them well in spring. It 
is the Tripoli and Rocca varieties which we 
prefer for this work. The seed is sown early in 
September, the plants are about 3 inches or 4 
inches in height in November, and they do not 
grow much more until now. We have had them 
larger than the sizes just named at this time, 
but we do not like them too tall, as if we have 
a mild winter and spring and the plants very 
forward, many of them are almost sure to run 
to flower, and that spoils the bulbs. When on 
medium size the weather liais no influence of 
them; they transplant well, start off in a free 


NA-C 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Jan. 26. 1884 


631 


growing state, and not five per cent, of them 
will fail to produce fine bulbs. The white ones 
always bulb first, then the yellow ones, and 
lastly the red ones. While sowing in autumn 
we always study to do so in good, well-manured 
soil, and as we sow in rows we allow one plant 
to remain every 10 inches or so apart, and lift 
all the others for transplanting at this time. 
Those that are undisturbed bulb first as a rule, 
but those which are taken up and replanted 
make the finest specimens. For this reason I 
would always transplant those intended for ex¬ 
hibition, or any which I wanted to be of an extra 
large size. 

Deeply duo, well manured land is the 
only kind which will produce a really fine crop. 
Liquid manure or other artificial feeding may be 
given when the bulbs are forming, and this 
assists their development, but properly prepared 
land is the main secret of success, and as this 
should be seen to before any planting takes 
place, it will be understood that this is an im¬ 
portant operation in connection with Onion cul¬ 
ture at the present time. The best autumn-sown 
Onions I have ever seen were grown on a piece 
of ground which was trenched 2 feet deep in 
January, and just before planting early in 
February another trench was taken out at one 
end. This was 18 inches wide and 8 inches deep. 
Into this a quantity of manure was emptied and 
spread out in a solid layer 6 inches deep. The 
soil from the next trench was thrown on the top 
of this, levelled and trodden down, and the 
whole piece was gone over in the same way, 
when it was ready for planting, and the crop 
was an unusually heavy one. It may be remarked 
that the manure came from a closet, and was 
mixed up previously to being dug in with a 
quantity of old Mushroom bed manure. This 
mixture suits Onions admirably, and all anxious 
to excel with their Onion crop should use it. 
Probably it might not be convenient to treat all 
the Onion ground in this way, but part of it for 
any special purpose might be done so. 

Another way which applies to all Onion 
ground at this time is to have it trenched as 
before, and then dig in a heavy coating of 
manure in the ordinary way. A dressing of soot 
may also be given at the same time to kill or 
ward off worms, but lime and manure should 
never be put on together. Salt is usefnl for the 
same purpose, and I often put a thin sprinkling 
of it over the manure before turning it on to the 
Onion ground. It is a bad plan to dig the soil 
when very wet, and it is a still worse practice to 
plant under such conditions. A dry day, and 
when the soil will not adhere to the feet, are the 
best conditions for getting in Onions. The 
ground being ready, the next thing is to plant. 
No drills or anything should be drawn for this 
crop; on the contrary, the plants should be 
merely pnt in on the level surface. Fifteen 
inches between the rows and 10 inches between 
the plants is a suitable distance at which to put 
them in. In taking the plants up from the seed 
rows they should be very carefully drawn out, 
and if this cannot be done without breaking the 
small roots, especially those close to the base, a 
fork should be used for easing them out of the 
soil. In planting we use a dibble, and the roots 
are let well into the ground, but the bottom of 
the plant is not covered more than 1 inch with 
soil. This is made very firm to prevent shaking, 
and planting is completed. Under favourable 
weather growth soon recommences, and the 
Dutch hoe is run through them from time to 
time. If planted now many of the bulbs will be 
of fair size by May, and then the worst of them 
may be drawn up for use, allowing the strongest 
and best formed to remain for later use or 
exhibition. Where the latter object is in view 
large quantities of liquid manure should be 
given during drought, and if the weather is too 
wet to apply this, a little guano may be put 
round each bulb, to be washed to the roots by 
the rain. Altogether the autumn-sown Onion 
crop is a most profitable one in spring. C. 


Early Carrots. —Now, and for the next 
three weeks, is an excellent time for making a 
small hotbed fpr raising a few Early Carrots. 
A gentle warmth, sufficient to cause the seeds to 
germinate freely, and to give the plants a fair 
start, is all that is needed. When the heat 
declines apply a lining of fresh manure. Thin 
out to 4 inches apart, ventilate freely on all 
favourable occasions, and juicy, tender little 

Digitized by GOOgle 


French Horn Carrots will be ready just at a time 
when variety in the vegetable list is sorely 
needed.—C. 


VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION. 

I RECENTLY saw the question asked when Peas, 
Broad Beans, French Beans, Cos and Cabbage 
Lettuces, Autumn Giant Cauliflower, and early 
Cabbages should be sown to come in for exhi¬ 
bition about the end of August; and the ques¬ 
tion is an important one, especially to those 
who do not keep up a constant succession of 
such things. Years ago I had some difficulty 
as regards this matter, but it was soon over¬ 
come, as I kept a book in which was noted 
down the date when everything was sown 
throughout the year; an empty line was left 
under each entry, and this was filled up with the 
date when the crop reached maturity. From 
this I could always learn the time when our 
crops would be ready from date of sowing, and 
I found the plan to be of the greatest advantage 
in many ways. From repeated observations 
noted down at the time one can tell almost to a 
day when any crop will be ready, and I always 
work accordingly when shows or any special 
object is in view. In some seasons the time 
when crops are fit for use may vary a little, but 
never more than a few days or a week at most, 
and allowance can easily be made for this. 
Some districts, too, are earlier than others, 
and this may have to be taken into consider¬ 
ation as well as the character of the soil. In 
light, well-drained material many crops ma¬ 
ture earlier than in cold, wet soil, but to meet 
and deal with these variations I would advise 
all interested in the subject to begin using 
their note-book at once, and follow the 
plan just indicated closely for a season at least. 
The following dates may, however, safely be 
taken in the meantime as approximate guides. 
Peas take from fifteen to sixteen weeks from the 
date of sowing to be fit for use; Broad Beans, 
fourteen weeks ; French Beans (runners), seven¬ 
teen weeks; dwarfs, 12 weeks ; Lettuces, twelve 
weeks; giant Cauliflowers, twenty-two and 
twenty-four weeks; earlier kinds, fifteen and 
eighteen weeks ; Cabbage, sixteen weeks ; Beet, 
eighteen weeks; Brussels Sprouts, twenty-four 
weeks; Carrots, sixteen and eighteen weeks; 
Celery, twenty-two weeks; Cucumbers, eight 
weeks; Leeks, twenty-four weeks; Onions, 
twenty-six weeks ; Parsnips, twenty-eight weeks; 
Potatoes, eighteen and twenty weeks; Radishes, 
six weeks; Salsafy and Scorzonera, twenty-four 
weeks; Savoys, twenty-seven weeks; Spinach, 
five weeks ; Tomatoes, eighteen weeks; Turnips, 
eight and ten weeks; and Vegetable Marrows, 
fourteen weeks. With the exception of Cucum¬ 
bers, Tomatoes, and Vegetable Marrows, the 
whole of these dates apply to plants which have 
been raised exclusively in the open ground, but. 
Celery, Cauliflower, and Leeks may have some 
slight assistance from being sown near the base 
of a wall or some Bnch place. Readers will 
doubtless be able to fix their dates of sowing 
from the above memoranda. For instance, if I 
wanted Peas for exhibition by the end of August, 
I would sow the seed the first or second week in 
May, and sooner or later according to circum¬ 
stances. J. M. 


GARLIC AND SHALLOTS. 

Garlic, with very little attention, will pro¬ 
duce a crop almost anywhere. When we first 
began to grow it we bought two pounds of it 
from a seedsman, and in a few years we might 
have had several hundredweights from this 
small quantity, so quickly does it increase. At 
first the bulbs were planted singly, but by the 
end of the season they appeared in large clusters, 
and it is these offsets which are kept for use in 
the kitchen, or part of them may be reserved for 
planting again the following spring. About this 
time the ground for the reception of the bulbs 
should be moderately rich and free in texture. 
We never make a special plantation of this, but 
put in 100 or so of roots between the fruit trees 
on the border which edges our walks in the vege¬ 
table department. Here we never fail to get a 
full crop, and we consider such a position suit¬ 
able for Garlic culture. The bulbs are put in 9 
inches apart each way, and as each one is put in 
the soil with a blunt pointel dibble,a little river 
sand is placed round to prevent it from decaying 
should the soil be very wet after planting. Hoe¬ 
ing is all the after culture given until fresh 


bulbs have been formed and are fully grown, 
when they are all taken up and harvested like 
Onions. During the growing season we have 
had to take up some for use, but as a rule we 
avoid doing this by always having a few bnlbs 
in store. In planting now we do not insert every 
one, but keep as many as we can in reserve, and 
these keep the kitchen supplied until those that 
are growing are almost ripe. 

Shallots are treated throughout in almost 
the same way. We plant them on the same day 
as the Garlic and on the same piece of ground. 
The Russian Mammoth is the best variety we 
possess, and by selecting the finest bulbs for 
planting the crop is much better than taking 
any size or kind for this purpose. As Shallots 
require more space in which to develop them¬ 
selves than the Garlic, the roots should not be 
put in closer than a foot apart, and for very fine 
bulbs we have sometimes given more space than 
even that. In planting, the crowns of the bulbs 
are left above ground, and a handful of sand is 
put round every one of them. When planted 
about this time they will be well forward in 
growth in March, and all will be ready for har¬ 
vesting in June or J uly. We have always found 
them to keep best when drawn up from the soil, 
spread out on the surface for a week or ten days 
in the sun, and then stored away in a dry, airy 
loft, room, or shed. After that, as the time 
may allow, the withered tops may be drawn 
from them, and the clusters are divided, and 
each bulb has all the dry, rough material re¬ 
moved when they are ready for use. C. 


Best soil for root crops.— Because 
ParenipSj Carrots, Beet, Salsafy, and other root 
crops are supposed to be finest when they run 
freely and well into the ground, some cultivators 
think that the soil cannot be too loose and open 
for their successful culture, but this is contrary 
to my experience, as I invariably find that the 
best-shaped, cleanest, and handsomest roots 
come out of the firmest soil. True, some roots 
willrun an astonishing distance downwards in a 
loose soil, but eighty per cent, grown under such 
conditions will be furnished with an unusual 
quantity of superfluous fibres,and many of them 
will be forked and have loDg thong-like tails. It 
wonld, indeed, be a difficult matter to find out 
of a large number a dozen of the same shape 
and size, and while many of them will be worth¬ 
less for the kitchen, very few will be fit for 
exhibition. It would be otherwise were they 
grown in the firmest of soil; indeed, if more 
attention was given to this point superior results 
would in many cases be secured. In digging 
or trenching land for these crops, it is, of course, 
impossible to make it very firm then; but as 
soon as the seed has been sown and covered in, 
firming the ground should be commenced. It 
should be trodden or rolled over several 
times, and as soon as the young plants can be 
seen in the rows the soil should be again firmly 
trodden down on each side of them,and the same 
thing should be repeated at thinning time and 
afterwards if necessary. This will cause the top 
growth to be very compact, and it has the same 
effect on the roots, the result being robust, 
clean, fibreless produce. I am acquainted with 
an amateur who grows the finest parsnips I have 
ever seen, and all his best roots sire grown so 
near the pathways in his garden that the soil 
which surrounds them almost forms part of the 
walk, and when the other roots named are 
treated after the same fashion the result is in 
every way satisfactory. Our finest Onions and 
Turnips, too, are produced in the hardest 6oil. 
and sound, well-formed bulbs of the Irghest 
quality can, I feel assured, only be raised on 
firm land. Many Onions are inclined to grow 
with a very long, thick neck, and seldom pro¬ 
duce any bulb worth speaking about; this is 
caused by the soil being loose ; thick necks are 
never found in any great numbers in a piece of 
Onions grown on firm ground. As soon as Onion 
seed is 60 wn a heavy roller should be taken 
several times over the ground, and plenty of 
after-treading will be beneficial. Our biggest 
and softest Tnrnips are grown on loose toil, 
but the best shaped, most solid, and finest 
flavoured ones come off the firmest gronDd. In 
short, wherever high-class roots are desired, firm 
soil must be one of the main points in their cul¬ 
ture.—J. M. 

Sowing Carrots. —Perhaps more lamen¬ 
table failures occur in Carrot-sowing than is 


Jan. 20, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


539 


any other crop. Carrot reed lies long in the 
ground before germinating at any time, and, if 
the soil happens to be cold for the season, as 
likely as not it will rot. We have often heard 
of cases, both in the north and south, of crops 
being sown three times without success. In the 
north, April is soon enough to sow main crops ; 
but seed may be sown till the middle of June in 
emergencies, and later if the Early Horn 
varieties are used. 


FRUIT. 


MANURING FRUIT TREES. 

TnE time to apply manure to trees, in order to 
increase the weight of the crop, is a subject about 
which some diversity of opinion exists, but it is 
exceedingly desirable that the matter shoald 
be better understood. I am not speaking of the 
kind of food to be given to plants. It is well 
known that too much manure, especially if given 
in a liquid state, produces an exuberance of 
foliage at the expense of fertility. We know, for 
example, that the rankest stalk of Wheat does 
not always produce the best ear. Patches of 
corn in a crop where perhaps an excess of manure 
has been given, by accident or otherwise, often 
show this. If plants had more sunshine and heat 
this effect would not be so apparent, because 
under such circumstances, the foliage is better 
able to elaborate the food ; but a dull sky and 
a low temperature destroy the advantages of 
manuring to a very large extent in the case of 
all plants. Observations of this kind have led 
cultivators to conclude that it is wrong to apply 
manure to fruit trees when they are young, or 
before the fruit begins to swell. To take 

The Vine as an example, the almost univer¬ 
sal practice not along ago, and one still common, 
was to apply manure in some form or other only 
after the fruit had set and stoned—a stage at 
which it has half completed its growth. I have 
known numbers of instances in which this rule 
was held to in the strictest manner. Although 
the Vines were not particularly vigorous, they 
never received any top dressing or liquid 
manure till the Grapes were thinned; after 
which one or the other was given in quantity, 
but without, in any single instance, producing 
fruit either of remarkable size or extra quality. 
The Grapes never were large, either in bunch 
or berry. It is admitted that manure ap¬ 
plied in the latter stages of growth exerts 
some influence in increasing the size of the 
fruit; but after a bunch of Grapes is set, one 
cannot add to the number of the berries, or alter 
their structure. Manuro may cause the berry to 
swell out to the extent of its framework ; but in 
order to have big bunches and big berries, we 
must first have strong shoots and strong buds, 
and these will to a certainty produce fruit with 
a capacity to swell under the application of 
manure. The older one grows in experience the 
more strongly this conviction is forced upon one. 
True, we can produce a too rank growth easily 
by applying manure in excess before the 
flowering period, but that only proves we are not 
to manure freely before that period. I am pretty 
sure that manuro given to trees at the middle 
period of growth does more good to the next 
year's crop than to the present one. It is well 
known that those who are ambitious to raise 
sensational bunches of Grapes act on the 
principle of feeding to build up a large frame¬ 
work both in bunch and berry. The fact that 
not a few of such cultivators have overdone it in 
the end, so far as the permanent well-being of 
the Vines are copcerned, is no argument against 
the system. Weak Vines, with poor small 
leaves, always produce small fruit, and vice 
versa. A bunch of Grapes that is going to be 
large is large from the time the flowers push out 
from the bud; the flowers are also large, and 
the berries large sis soon as they are set, and 
they fill up quicker. 

The Strawberry affords another excellent 
illustration of the truth of this. The size of 
the Strawberry depends principally on the 
number of pips or seeds produced. No fruit is 
so quickly benefited by feeding, for the berries 
can be swollen up to excess by means of liquid 
manure applied even after they are set, causing 
the seeds to stand quite far apart in the flesh ; 
but the berry with the most pips will always be 
the biggest, and the number of the pips entirely 
depends on the vigour of the plants and the 
strength of the crowns, which in turn depend 
on the feeding the plants have received the 

Digitized by GOOglc 


previous year. This is the secret of Strawberry 
culture, and particularly in forcing. To have 
prize fruits, the grower must not quite depend 
on the common plan of giving guano water or 
some other liquid to the plants after the fruit is 
set. If his flowers are not large, his berries will 
not be large either, and this is certain always. 
Fruits that are poor and little at the beginning 
never grow into big ones. We must first lay 
the foundation and fatten afterwards. 

Method of manuring. —There is a very 
great difference between rich borders that are 
also deep and those which are shallow. The 
former induces the production of roots that 
penetrate deeply into the rich compost, with 
the result that strong growth is produced that 
never ripens sufficiently. A rich and deep 
soil simply predisposes the trees to that gross 
habit of growth which deep soils always en¬ 
courage, and which in our climate cannot be 
matured. There is no occasion for borders 
being deep as well as rich, and it would be far 
better in many instances if the manure was nsed 
as a top-dressing more than as a component 
part of the border. Both Vines and Teaches 
root readily near the surface of the border that 
is frequently top-dressed, and so do Apples and 
Fears. Trees on dwarf stocks are naturally in¬ 
clined to root near the surface, and the best 
cropsareproduced from trees that are frequently 
top-drersed with manure to induce surface- 
rooting. Mulching in this way should form a 
main feature of the culture of all dwarf trees, 
but it must be practised regularly, because top- 
dressings of that kind are Eoon dissipated, and 
soon perish ; unless they are renewed often, the 
roots that have been formed on the surface be¬ 
come exposed and dried up, to the injury of the 
crops and trees. 

With dwarf surface-rooting stocks, like the 
Taradise and Quince, annual mulching should be 
practised regularly or not at all, as without top- 
dressings and mulchings of the surface, the roots 
will hide themselves under the soil and remain 
covered. It is only when they are encouraged 
to the surface by top-dressings that they become 
exposed ; but that is only when such manures as 
rotten litter and the like are employed, and 
which, being light and perishable, soon decay 
and disappear. Dressings of pure soil mixed 
with manures are best. Vines, Peaches, Apples, 
Pears, &c., in shallow, well-drained borders 
should be manured in autumn instead of in 
spring, say about September or October. The 
trees may be gross and growing tco strongly, but 
the cause of that is almost sure to be deep rooting 
in a strong or rich soil. Provided the roots are 
not allowed to go down too deeply, it has yet to 
be proved that any amount of rich surface dres¬ 
sings has the least influence in producing a too 
gross or unfertile growth. It is certain, for ex¬ 
ample, that a Pear or Apple tree would hardly 
ever need to be root-pruned if it grew in a position 
where the roots could not penetrate more than G 
or 9 inches below the surface. Under such cir¬ 
cumstances you can hardly over-manure the roots 
of a tree, nor produce, by such means, those gross 
shoots which are so frequently seen on trees in 
deep borders. In root-pruning trees I have 
always noticed that it was the deep thong-like 
roots which were the cause of gross shoots; at 
all events, where we find the one we always 
find the other. Allowance is, of course, here made 
for climate, for a too gross root action in a dull 
cold climate can never produce a fruitful habit 
in trees. The southern grower, who enjoyB more 
sunshine and a higher temperature, may manure 
more than the cultivator in the north, who has 
to contend with duller skies; but local circum¬ 
stances of this kind must be left to bo dealt 
with at fruit grower’s discretion. When it 
is seen trees are in good health and vigour, 
manure is not needed, and the size and colour 
of the foliage will always indicate the state of 
the tree in that respect. Mulching is, however, 
always safe and advisable in the case of trees in 
orchard or fruit houses, and in the oase of bare 
borders outdoors, but the mulching may consist 
of either poor or rich materials, as may be need¬ 
ful. Short grass will make an excellent mul¬ 
ching when it is not desirable to apply anything 
stronger. 

When to manure. —Vines, Peaches, orchard 
house trees, and fruit trees outdoors, as well as 
all small fruits, are best manured in autumn 
about October. Many cultivators realise this 
now, and practice accordingly. Manure put on 
early gets washed down to the roots by the rains, 


and is there when it is wanted and the trees 
begin to grow. When put on in spring, especially 
as a top-dressing above the roots of trees deep 
in the soil, It is too long before they experience 
the benefit of it. The only way that Vines or 
Peaches established in borders can be manured 
by solid manures, which are better than liquid 
manures for encouraging surface rooting, is by 
top-dressings, bnt it is not much use applying 
these unless they can be placed near the roots at 
once. This makes the greatest difference possible, 
for when the top-dressing is placed near the 
roots they lay hold of it at the same season, and 
are proportionatelysoon benefited by it; whereas, 
if much inert soil, the accumulations from former 
additions to the border, lie between it and the 
roots, they will never touch it, and barely feel its 
influence. Do not pile dressing upon dressing 
unless the roots are there, and when they are not 
plentiful on the surface go after them till they 
are found. Scratch the soil carefully off Vine 
and other indoor fruit borders till the roots are 
just visible, and then apply the manure, putting 
a little common soil, perhaps an inch or two, be¬ 
tween the roots and the manure if it- be fresh, 
and afterwards cover the top-dressing with a 
thin layer of loam, to prevent offensive smells 
and loss by exhalation. Apples and Pears ontdoors 
should be treated in the same manner; but when 
the roots are already close to the surface there is 
no occasion to lay them bare. It is much better 
to manure trees periodically in this way than to 
make borders in which much manure is mixed 
with the soil throughout its depth, unless it be a 
shallow border, only as has been said before, the 
practice must be continued regularly.—S. W. 


Winter dressing fruit trees.— Where- 
ever fruit trees are much subject to the attacks 
of aphides, scale, Moss, or Lichen, a suitable 
winter dressing will be beneficial. For the 
eradication of Moss, fresh lime is the best and 
cheapest material to apply; it may be dusted on 
when the branches are slightly damp, or it may 
be applied in a liquid form through the syringe 
or garden engine. In either case a fourth part 
of soot may be added to it. Soot in any shape 
is a capital stimnlant for fruit trees, and might 
with advantage be much more extensively used 
than it is, either as a top-dressing to the roots or 
as an insecticide. When applied in a liquid 
form, it should be strained just previous to being 
used, through a piece of canvas, otherwise the 
syringe or engine may be rendered unserviceable. 
For the destruction of scale and aphides, 
Gishnrst compound, in the proportion of eight 
ounces to the gallon, may safely be used dissolved 
in soft water. The common and, as I think, the 
best plan is to thicken the liquid compound with 
lime and soot and a couple of good handfuls of 
sulphur per gallon, till it has the consistency of 
ordinary paint, and then put it on all the 
branches of the trees with a soft brush, rubbing 
it well in on the old wood, but passing over the 
young shoots with a lighter hand, so as not to 
disturb any of the buds, drawing the brush along 
in the direction of the buds only without any 
reverse action. It has been stated that" to 
simply wash the branches of the trees with the 
liquid compound without any thickening 
ingredients would have the same cleansing 
effect. I have tried both ways, and the conclusion 
at which I have arrived is that the thicker 
mixture has a more lasting and beneficial effect 
Ilian the thin one, and as one can be applied 
nearly as quickly as the other, and there is not 
much difference in the cost, I should recommend 
a continuance of the old system.—H. 

Grapes for cool hougea.— There is no 
better general Black Grape for a cool house than 
the Black Hamburgh, but better keepers are 
found in Lady Downes and Black Alicante. 
Neither of these, however, can be grown per¬ 
fectly in a cool house ; they must have heat and 
good culture, or their crops will be valueless. 
There can be no two better general cool house 
Grapes than the Buckland Sweetwater (White) 
and the Black Hamburgh, and hardier ones will 
only give inferior fruit, whilst other kindswill be 
perchance too tender. One of the most impor¬ 
tant elements in successful Vine culture is 
found in the constitution of the border for the 
roots. Some soils are naturally deep and allu¬ 
vial, and in these the Vine thrives without much 
trouble ; but in the majority of cases it is 
necessary to trench the soil 4 ft. deep, to place 
in the bottom G in. of rubble for drainage, and, 
removing the sour clay or gravel subsoil, add 



540 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Jan. 2G, 1884. 


enough of fresh loam or well-decayed manure 
to raise the border 1 ft. above the surrounding 
soil. For a border—say G ft. wide and 12 ft. 
loDg— a bushel of crashel bones and several 
bushels of wood-ashes may be added with ad¬ 
vantage, and be well mixed with the soil before 
ihe young Vine3 are planted. Well-established 
yoang Vines should be secured for planting, and 
ihese should be cut back within 9 in. of the 
ground just before the buds start into growth 
borne long manure spread over the border will 
protect the roots from the sun for the summer. 
The first year’s growth should reach to the top 
of the hou e, and this the following spring may 
be cut back to one-third of the length, and in 
two years more the top of the house will be 
reached.—1). 

Borders for fruit trees.—If hardy fruit 
growing in many parts of the country is to be 
attended with anything like success, greater 
trouble than has hitherto been incurred will have 
to be generally gone to in the preparation of the 
ground. In this northern climate (Durham) it 
is out of the question under ordinary circum¬ 
stances to attempt reach cultivation out of doors; 
but, even with Peaches, a good deal could be 
done to insure success. If, for instance, as much 
care wa9 exercised in making a border as is the 
case with them under glass. Peaches ru’ghfc even 
here be grown on opjn walls. In the first place 
thorough drainage is wanted to warm the bor¬ 
der, and this should be done by at least one good 
drain being made down the middle of it. This 
diain shoal 1 be as deep as it is practical to make 
it—from 6 feet to 8 feet would benooe too mueb. 
Drains are often rendered almost useless by too 
►hallow. They then only take off surface water, 
while the subsoil still lies cold and damp—the 
greatest enemy to fruit trees. If this drain 
could be filled up to within 2 feet of the surface 
with rubble, so much the better. The border 
tJhnuld next be thrown out 2 feet deep; and if 
the soil is unsuitable for the trees, let it be en¬ 
tirely removed. In the bottom place about a 
foot deep of rubble, which may consist of stone, 
broken bricks, or some such porous material, 
and cover this over with rough ashes, to prevent 
the roots from sinking down to the soil below; 
next make up the border with suitable soil 2 
feet thick at the bick and 18-inches at the front 
on a border, say, 9 feet wide. For Plums, Pears, 
Uuerries and Apples, a border made on this prin¬ 
ciple would also pay the labour and expense be¬ 
stowed on it. lly the trees standing high and 
dry, the wood would bo better ripened, less 
damage would be done by frest, and a more 
certain crop would be the result. A great deal 
can also bo done in the training of wall trees to 
help their fruitfulness; for instance, the branches 
b'iouI 1 not be placed too closely together, nor 
should they be allowed to be over-crowded with 
spars; thus there would not be too much foli¬ 
age to shade the forming fruit buds from the in¬ 
fluence of the sun and air. The.main thing, how¬ 
ever, is to have the trees dry and warm at the 
roots; and to insure this, the border should be 
wall drained and not too deep.—A.M. 

Digging amongst Raspberries. — 
These, like Strawberries, are often much weak- 
e led and injared by the spade or fork, as being 
surface rooters, they cannot be dug amongst 
without the principal feeders being destroyed, 
and therefore the ground should never be dis¬ 
turbed beyond what is absolutely necessary for 
keeping weeds down. The way we manage is to 
give a good dressing of half-rotten manure, 
which we put on immediately after the canes 
are thinned out and re9taked and tied, and as it 
lies the greater part of the winter, the juices 
get washed out and enrich the soil for the plants. 
During spring and summer the manure is of 
equal or even greater service by the shade it 
affords, thus preventing evaporation, which is of 
great importance to Raspberries, as they require 
mach moistnre when swelling and ripening their 
fruit. A mulching, in a great measure, secures 
this for them, especially when pat on early, as 
then tha rains are kept in the ea r th instead of 
being drawn out by the sun and wind in the 
spring. Many who grow Raspberries are much 
put to for stakes to support them, and various 
are the plans adopted to do without them, one 
of the best being to bring half the canes of one 
plant over to the other, so that they meet and 
form an arch by bending and interlacing or 
tying the tops, This keep) them stiff and erect, 
and another good way is to strain a strong piece 

Digitized by GOO<^lC 


of galvanised wire down the sides of the rows, to 
which the Raspberries may be made fast by a 
tie. What I prefer, however, are iron rods, 
which, though a little dear at first, are the 
cheapest and best in the end, as they last for an 
indefinite time.—S. D. 

1078(5.— Cape(Jooaebsiries.— Popular 
names are sometimes misleading. The delicious 
fruit known as Cape Gooseberry is neither a 
Gooseberry nor a native of the Cape. It is 
Physalis peruviana (or edulis), a near relative 
of the old-fashioned hardy perennial Winter 
Cherry (P. Alkekengi), but it is a greenhouse 
shrub, and though it will grow and flower for 
one season out-of-doors, it will not ripen fruit 
under ordinary circumstances in England. I 
have, however, seen it in Devonshire planted in 
a Vine-border, and trained over the low front 
wall of the Vinery (outside), where it bore 
abundance of fruit. 1 believe it is extensively 
grown as a dessert fruit in New Zealand. — 
J UXIA. 

-I do not think “ J. C. B.” is correct in 

his statement that the Cape Gooseberry is not 
valuable on account of its fruit. In point of 
fact the fruit makes one of the very best pre¬ 
serves. I am expecting to receive come very 
shortly from the Cape, where I lived several 
years, and if “ J. C. B ” could give me a call and 
taste the same, I think he would acknowledge 
that it was very valuable in that form.—E. I 5 ., 
Sudbury. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


DAY LILIES. 

(ITEMEROCALLI8 ) 

These hardy bulbous plants possess several dis¬ 
tinctive qualities which render them very 
desirable, not the least of which is their frag¬ 
rance. The first to flower is II. Dumortieri, 



lleme.ocallU Hava, shewing habit of gr„ur.h. 


which blooms early in June. Its flowers are 
somewhat smaller than those of most of the 
other kinds, and are oraDge-coloured, streaked 
on the outside with red. Succeeding it in flower 
is the canary yellow-flowered H. flava. It makes 
a showy and attractive plant. Resembling the 
latter in colour, and expanding its flowers a little 
later, is H. gramminea, which has the narrowest 
foliage of all. It is sometimes called II minor, 
but the former is tha accepted name in gardens. 
The pretty yellow flowers of this kind are excel¬ 
lent to cut, as they last loDger in that state than 
the others. The last to flower, and also the 
noblest of the species, is the coppery-red 
flowered II fulva, with its several varieties, the 
principal of which is disticha, which produces 
more flowers on a stem than the original, but of 
the same colour. Then there is the double- 
flowered form, which is considered the best for 
border purposes, at the flowers continue in per¬ 
fection a much loDger time. The variegated¬ 
leaved variety, known as II. Kwanso variegata, 
is probably a form of 11. fulva, and a highly 
ornamental plant it is when fully developed and 
the variegation well marked. The Yellow Day 
Lily (II. flava), which we now figure, makes an 
excel’ent pot plant. It can be grown to per¬ 


fection in a cold frame or greenhouse. Deep 
rich soil and a warm border suits the Day Lilies 
perfectly. The annexed engraving was pre- 



Double Day Lily, Hoaicr.callis fu'.vu flore-pljno. 


pared from flowers gathered in Mr. Barr's 
nursery at Tooting, last summer, where quite a 
field of them, so to say, was in flower. 


HARDY FLOWER GARDENING. 

The interesting information given by Mr. Sweet 
in the number of Gabdesiko Illustrated 
for January 5th, under the heading of Scottish 
Experience in llardy Flower Gardening,” is so 
complete in its way, that in reply to the often 
repeated question “ IIow am 1 to begin a col¬ 
lection of Hardy Flowers ? " I shall feel disposed 
in future to lend this article as the best answer 
[ can give, as it would be difficult to tell more 
in the space. If, however, Iventure to comment 
upon a few of Mr. Sweet's remarks, it is because 
comparison of experience in these ma'ters 
always tends to mutual improvement. The ad¬ 
vantage the climate of Glasgow has over that of 
the north-west of England is that the seasons 
are better marked : winter is sure to be winter, 
and if summer is not always as bright as the 
summer in tho south-eastern counties of Eng¬ 
land, the longer days do something to compen¬ 
sate for the difference of latitude, and the soil 
is less likely to be dried up. Many gardeners 
give us much information about hardy plant*, 
but say nothing of the soil and situation of their 
garden, but Mr. Sweet tells us all we want to 
know. It is, therefore, very instructive to find 
that he succeeds -with so difficult a plant as 
Ourisia coccinea, for, in spite of trying all the 
directions given in gardening journals, I have 
never been able to succeed with this plant., nor 
have I ever seen it doing well in any garden for 
long together. The crowns scon become dwarfed 
and crowded, the leaves stunted, and no flowers 
are produced, in spile of change of situation and 
soil. Leucojum vernum also seems to require 
a combination of conditions not often supplied. 
I have planted hundreds of it, but it never does 
well in my garden, in Cheshire, and several of 
my friends have made the same complaint. 
However with Orchis foliosa and O. maculata I 
do well. I observe that Mr. Sweet recommends 
plantingthcm with old manure, but Mr. Webster, 
of Llandegai, near Bangor, who has paid es¬ 
pecial attention to the cultivation of hardy 
terrestrial Orchids, thinks manure injurious to 
them. I am inclined to think that he is right, 
as it stimulates them into too early growth, and 
causes the foliage to be browned by late severe 
frosts. For the Orchids named deep planting, as 
advised by Mr. Sweet, in a small pocket of coarse 
sand, surrounded by rich open soii with a 
cool subsoil; ar.d with a top dressing of leaf- 
mould, which should be renewed annually, will 
be found successful. It is remarkable that 
O. foliosa, though a native of Madeira, is per¬ 
fectly hardy in Scotland, and even increases 
faster in cultivation than most of our native 
kinds. It is found in its own country with 
many shades of colour, and I have offered a 
reward, through afriend who lives in the island, 
for a white-flowered variety, which I hope will 
some day be met with. As for O. maculata, the 
variety called “ superba,” or the Kilmarnock 
Orchis, is certainly a very fine form ; but endless 

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Jan. 26, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


541 



shade, both oE colour and marking of leaf, may 
be selected where O. lati folia and 0. maculata 
grow in company, and if the strongest growing 
plants are chosen they will be found to retain 
this character in cultivation. They may be 
transplanted safely when in liower, if kept wet 
and never allowed to flag. 

Narcissus bicolor Hobsfieldi deserve.% the 
preeminence amongst the Ajax or Trumpet 


flowers capriciously, perhaps from atmospheric 
causes. I have several hundred bnlbs in all 
kinds of soil and situations, and they do best 
amongst the Gooseberry bushes of the kitchen 
arden, where the soil is old rich loam. Hum- 
oldti is an uncertain Lily, which in some 
seasons flowers very well in my loamy borders, 
but it seldom makes any increase. L. par- 
dalinum in peat, with damp day beneath, in- 


of it by always keeping some plants in a cold 
frame through winter. Severe winters kill the 
crown, though I have never known the roots 
killed, and they alwayB send np shoots again 
from below before the end of the summer. T1 et'e 
shoots, however, will not flower the first year, 
and are liable again to be killed if the winter 
is hard, but no plant is more easily divided, as 
every piece of root, if potted, will break into a 
shoot. If a flowering plant is divided at Iho 
end of autumn into five or six pieces, and each 
kept in a large pot protected through two 
winters and planted out when sixteen months 
| old in April, they will all flower, but after such 
mild winters as the last two, I find all the plants 


Daffodils, which Mr Sweet gives to it, but he 
should grow by the side of it N. maximus, bulbs 
of which are imported from Holland every 
autumn at twopence eavh. The flower is quite 
as large, though not as stout as that of Horsfieldi, 
and the colour a uniform bright golden yellow. 
Emperor is another distinct and good variety, 
but is still high priced. Obvallaris and nanus 
are favourites for earliness of flowering. All 
these belong to the single trumpet section. 

Crown Imperials doing well show a sandy 
soil and a well drained subsoil. I never cm 
persuade a Crown Imperial to flower in Cheshire 
where the subsoil is clay. 

Lilies, Mr. Ware tells us in his catalogue, 
cannot be expected all of them to thrive in the 
same soil. None of the Tigers will do with clay 
beneath them, but the Martagons and Colchicums 
seem to enjoy it. Mr. Sweet is sure to succeed 
in the sandy soil with L. elegans and the Thun- 
bergiannm section, which do so well at the Hale 
Farm Nursery, but which I labour in vain to 
grow. As for L. candidum, none of us can tell 
the exact conditions which suit it. In many 
gardens it fails completely, and in others it 


Fbwcrs of Diy Lilies (Hemerocallis). ] n. fulva ; 
2, U. tlavA. Drawn in September lost. 


creates like a weed. I ihall be happy to offer 
Mr. Sweet the selection of a dozen of my best 
plants as a prize as soon as he succeeds in 
flowering L. Tbompsonianum in the open air. 
To do this is an horticultural puzzle. 

Senecio pulciier being a native of the tem¬ 
perate parts of 8. America, where it does not 
get severe frosts in winter, does better in Corn¬ 
wall and Devonshire than in the colder parts of 
our islaud. I manage to keep up a large stock 


flower, though left to themselves out in the beds. 
1 think Mr. Sweet is mistaken in speaking of 
Anemone vitifolia, which is a tender Himalayan 
species, seldom surviving an English winter out 
of doors ; but there is a well known hybrid 
between vitifolia and japonica, commonly 
known as Honorine Jobert, which is quite hardy. 
A few words about Primroses, many of which 
Mr. Sweet complains are only biennial in his 
garden. They are in so many others, where they 
make vigorous growth. The large root stock 
makes so tough a lump of substance like cab¬ 
bage stalk at its summit, that the shoots die of 
strangulation. Still I never see finer Primula 
japonica than I can grow of all colours in my 
garden as two year old plants. All Piimroses 
may be raised in abundance if the seed is sown 
as soon as it is ripe, but if stored it often comes 
np very slowly and sparingly. P. japoDica with 


Digitiz 


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542 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Jan. 26 , 1884 . 


mecomesup o£ itself round the plants, where I do 
not allow the soil to be raked. Some of the 
Himalayan Primroses, P. purpurea, P. Stuarti, 
and the P. nivalis of Turkestan, defy all efforts 
to make them happy in England, and the 
varieties of P. denticnlata are so precocious in 
their attempts to flower before spring, that the 
flowers are always spoilt, and the plants there¬ 
fore worthless except for growing in frames ; 
but P. rosea in spring, and P. capitata in 
summer and autumn, are real gems. I will with 
pleasure send Hr. Sweet seedlings of any of 
these, if he will send me his full address to 
Edge, near Malpas. I should also like to send 
him seed of some of my best Columbines, as 
Columbines generally do well in Scotland, and 
he mentions only two. They thrive best in any 
waste corner, if the Boil is rich. I have also an 
early white Phlox, called Lady Napier, which I 
should like him to try by the side of Miss 
Robertson, as with me it is far superior ; but it 
is possible that it gets better attention as an 
old favourite, and it would be tested more fairly 
in a strange garden. 

Monarda didyma is often lost, not I think 
because it is tender, for it is a native of the 
North Western States of North America, where 
it often gets 70 degrees of frost, and where my 
son found one with pure white flowers last year, 
but failed to bring it home alive. The cause of 
losing is leaving alone. Every autumn I pull 
off a side piece and plant it in a new place and 
in new soil; the situation should be sheltered 
and the soil moist. Whether it exhausts the 
soil, or the young shoots get so closely matted 
that they cannot emerge, I find the plants dis¬ 
appear generally after two years. 

Cypripedium spectabile is equally hardy 
with the last, and a native of the same country, 
but it does not very readily establish itself, and 
though it does not mind a cold winter, it likes a 
hot summer, but hates drought. A border with 
a wall on the south, and a shelter on the north, 
and a deep moist open soil mixed with abun¬ 
dance of leaf-mould are the conditions under 
which it thrives. Both this and C. pubescens 
are more easily grown than the native C. Cal- 
ceolus, which does best amongst rocks. 

Gentiana acaulis is a plant for which no 
treatment can be prescribed which ensures 
success, and there are more gardens in which it 
fails than in which it succeeds. Looking healthy 
without flowering is a common complaint, and 
I have tried many plans with it. Making a hole 
about 2 feet deep to contain about a peck of 
broken stone, to come within six inches of the 
surface, and treading in good stiff loam, into 
which the plant must be pressed very tightly, 
and a position in full sun, has produced the best 
results. I hope Mr. Sweet will try many other 
Gentians, some of which thrive under entirely 
different conditions. G. septemfida, of which I 
shall have this year a large stock of seedlings 
for distribution, is about the best. In con¬ 
clusion, let me say that I find growing these 
choice herbaceous and Alpine plants from seed 
the most satisfactory way of ensuring a plenti¬ 
ful and healthy stock of them. 

C. WOLIiEY Dod. 
HJge Hall, Malpas, Cheshire. 

WINTERING FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
ABOUT London we have had what may be 
termed an open winter, one that has been upon 
the whole favourable to florists’ flowers. Never¬ 
theless, let the winter be what it may, there are 
always some who cannot Bteer their collections 
of florists’ flowers through it without heavy 
losses in the way of Auriculas, Pinks, Carna¬ 
tions, Pansies, and some other flowers. May I 
be allowed to state that we have scarcely any 
losses amongst our florists’ flowers during 
winter ? It may, therefore, be of service to 
those who cultivate these plants to know how 
we keep our collections intact. 

The Auricula is still stated to be a difficult 
plant to keep through the winter, and difficult 
to manage even in summer. Nothing can be 
further from the truth. If the plants receive 
water when they ought to be dry, or suffer from 
lack of water when they require it, and withal 
are allowed to become a prey to green-fly, they 
will die, as any other class of plants would do. 
During November, December, and J anuary very 
little water is required. They should be placed 
in frames in an open, airy position early in 
October, but befpre placing them there, the 

Digitized by GOOglC 


frames and pots should be made clean, and air 
ought to be freely admitted both by night and 
day, unless very severe frosts should set in. 
Remove dead and decaying leaves once in ten 
days. Water merely to prevent the plants from 
becoming dust-dry, but never during frosty 
weather. 

Carnations and Picotees.— Of these we 
have wintered a large collection this year out 
of doors exposed to all the vicissitudes of the 
weather, but this is not the treatment which 
they ought to receive. All the choice varieties 
ought to be planted in small pots about the 
month of October, so that they may be wintered 
in cold frames and be freely exposed to the air 
like Auriculas. Here, again, cleanliness is a 
matter of vital importance. Green-fly does them 
much mischief, and if not destroyed will cripple 
them, so that they will not produce any full- 
sized well marked blooms. We look over our 
plants about twice during the winter months to 
remove decayed leaves, and, if necessary, to stir 
up the soil in the pots. It is a good plan to 
fumigate them twoor three times during winter, 
whether there is green-fly on them or not. They 
require rather more water at the roots than 
Auriculas. Carnations and Picotees, I need 
scarcely say, are quite hardy dpring the severest 
frosts. We never cover the glass ; keeping the 
frames close in winter, covering with mats 
during frost, and watering when the plants do 
not require any, is the cause of disease and weak, 
spindly growths. The pots in which the plants 
are wintered had bet tor be too small than too 
large. 

Pinks. —In ordinary well-drained garden soil 
these pretty sweet-scented flowers will stand 
the winter in the open ground, and require very 
little attention. They must, however, be well 
established before severe winter weather sets 
in ; it is necessary, therefore, to plant them in 
September. I generally prepare the ground 
early in that month by trenching it about 
18 inches deep, and if the plants can be set out 
6 inches apart from the middle to the end of 
the month they will succeed admirably. The 
beds should be raised, say, from 3 inches to 
6 inches above the level of the paths. The 
plants root, firmly into the ground before cold 
winter weather sets in, and they are not so 
easily thrown out by alternate frosts and thaws 
as late-planted ones are. Pinks are sometimes 
eaten off in winter, and one is sometime puzzled 
whether it is rabbits or the leather-coated grub 
that does the mischief. Both feed after dark, 
and a few turns round at night with a good 
lamp will discover the depredators. Although 
the plants are comparatively safe in the open 
ground, a cautious florist will not trust all his 
plants there; and besides, some varieties are of 
a more delicate constitution than others. It is 
a good plan to put one or two pairs of each 
variety. A single pair should occupy a 3-inch 
pot, so that they may be wintered in a cold 
frame the same as Carnations. Those wintered 
in frames may be planted out in the open 
ground in March. I fancy, however, that those! 
planted in autumn produce the most perfectly- 
laced flowers. 

Pansies. —These require treatment very simi¬ 
lar to that usually given to the Pink, but they do 
not seem to winter in the open borders quite so 
well, although the losses are unimportant if the 
plants are put out early; still, as a matter of pre¬ 
caution, it is best'to place a plant or two of each 
variety in pots and winter them in frames. It is 
a good plan to cover the surface of the beds after 
the plants are established with dry, fine soil, to 
which a liberal portion of powdered charcoal has 
been added. Let this be spread thinly and 
evenly over the surface, and the plants should be 
pegged down to it to prevent their being injured 
by wind. Seedlings, in the shape of strong 
autumn plants, make a grand display, and not 1 
per cent, of them are injured by severe winter 
weather. Wireworm will sometimes do much 
damage both to Pansies, Pinks, Carnations, and 
Picotees. The Pansy also likes rich soil, and 
prefers cow manure to all others. 

Hollyhocks. —The choicest varieties in some 
instances are not so easily propagated as Dahlias 
and Roses ; but in general there is not a great 
deal of labour required to keep the collection 
intact. The plants should be potted into 6, 7, 
or 8-inch pots in autumn, or be planted out in 
cold frames. The main thing is to protect them 
from too much wet. Early in February cuttings 


should be taken from the stools and potted in 
sandy soil, placing them in a gentle bottom heat 
in the forcing house. Autumn-struck cuttings 
ought to be wintered either in a cold frame or 
near the glass in a cool greenhouse, or in any 
house from which frost is excluded. They 
may be potted on into larger pots any time 
during this month. Strong seedlings planted in 
the open ground in September generally stand 
well duriDg the winter in the open ground. If 
planted about 3 feet apart they will flower very 
strongly during the ensuing season. J. D. 

Culture of Polyanthuses.— Now, when 
the Polyanthuses are bursting into life and 
beauty, it may be well to make a few remarks 
on their cultural requirements. The finer forms 
do not grow very freely. Indeed, they must be 
classed amongst what may be termed difficult 
plants to manage; and it is only by importing 
plants occasionally from a northern district that 
collections in the south can be maintained 
intact. What is most trying is the hot, dry 
weather that generally occurs in June, July, ami 
August. Our plants are put out into the open 
ground early in May, or as soon a9 the flowering 
period is over. They are planted in a shady 
place, and in good rich yellow turfy loam, 
brought from Primrose districts, but with all 
our care their most desperate enemy, red spider, 
makes sad havoc amongst them—many varieties 
being so debilitated by it, that they succumb 
altogether during the following autumn and 
winter. At present our plants are in their 
flowering pots and pushing satisfactorily ; they 
must be kept in frames and well aired, the lights 
being drawn off whenever the weather is at all 
favourable. They are generally in flower before 
the Auriculas, and in order to maintain them in 
beauty as long as possible they must be shaded 
from bright sunshine; but as soon as the sun 
passes off them the shading should be removed. 
They also succeed best when the frames in which 
they are growing have their backs placed to the 
south. If there is any trace of green-fly upon 
the leaves It ought to be removed now by fumi¬ 
gating the frames, as it injures the flowers to 
fumigate when they are in full beauty. The 
Polyanthus lasts in flower longer than the 
Auricula, for, besides the centre truss, there are 
usually three or four side trusses which come in 
later, causing the plants to last in flower for six 
weeks at least. It is usual for those who make 
a fancy flower of the Polyanthus to remove the 
side trusses, allowing the centre one to remain, 
and also to thin out the pips to five or seven of 
the best only; but to treat a Polyanthus in this 
way destroys the natural character of the plant. 
One of the best amateur growers in the north of 
England told me that he never grew Polyan¬ 
thuses two years in succession in pots. His plan 
was to plant them out in borders as soon as the 
flowering period was over, and they were rot 
potted again until they had made two seasons 
growth. His time for potting was the first week 
in August, and I have also potted them at that 
time and found them to succeed admirably. 
The potting material should contain more loam 
in proportion to the other ingredients than tbe 
compost recommended for Auriculas. When 
they are potted the north side of a wall or fence 
seems to be the best place for them ; they may 
be protected with glass lights until they are 
established, but they are best in the open sir 
until frosts Bet in. They should also be aired 
very freely during the winter months—D. 

“ A Scottish experience in hardy 
flower gardening.”—I have read with intere-t 
Mr. Sweet’s account of his experience in hardy 
flower growing, and as I know the place well, 
and have often looked at and admired his gar¬ 
den plots from the old bridge above, I am able 
to say that he has not given an exaggerate J 
account of his success. But there are sotre 
special features of situation and soil that ought, 
in fairness, I think, to be more noticed thru 
they have been. The garden is situated xt 
a point where the river suddenly change? its 
course as well as its character. From beirg a ; 
Highland stream on a small scale, with swift ; 
currents and rapids and waterfalls, it all at i 
once, after passing through the picturesque old 
bridge, becomes a lowland river, with loop 
reaches of still water and beds of loam and , 
gravel, and sloping banks. The place where it r 
makes its last tumble over the rocks, and where ij 
M r. S.’s garden is situated, is surrounded on a 
I hree sides by well-wooded eminences at a suf- £ 

I 



Jan. 26 , 1884 .] GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


543 


ficient distance to admit plenty of light and air, 
and yet to give perfect shelter from the pre¬ 
vailing south-west winds of the district, as well 
as from the cold northern breezes, and it is only 
towards the east—the direction in which the 
river flows at that point—that it can be said to 
be in any way exposed; but even in that quarter 
it is sheltered by the bouses of the village and 
the trees which are about them. A more favour¬ 
able situation for a flower garden I scarcely ever 
saw, and it does Mr. 8. credit that he has taken 
advantage of such a site. From the fact that 
there is a steep retaining wall next the river, I 
imagine that the soil, which he describes as a 
rich sandy mould, is partly “ forced," or made up 
artificially, but whether this is the case or not, 
it is probably composed of river silt mixed with 
the leaves of the Oaks, Ashes, Elms, and 
Hizels, which line the river sides for miles up, 
and this mixture of loam and vegetable matter 
has accumulated on the bank after passing 
through the bridge. The subject of suitable soils 
in favourable situations is an interesting one, 
and is well worth the attention of amateurs who 
are looking about for garden ground, and who 
are not tied down to one particular spot.—P. R. 

Plantain Lilies (Funkias) — Few hardy 
perennials are more ornamental and showy than 
Plantain Lilies, as not only have most of them 
very beautifnl foliage, but they bear a profusion 
of Lily-like flowers, the spikes of which are 
exceedingly useful for cutting, as they look 
well and last long in water. Besides being so 
fine and effective for borders, many of them 
make capital pot plants, the best for which pur¬ 
pose are the variegated-leaved sorts, such as 
F. ovata aorea variegata, F. ovata glancescens 
variegata, F. ovata undnlata anrea, F. ovata 
maculata, F. ovata argentea, and F ovata elegans. 
Any of these, taken up and forced, make a splen¬ 
did show in a greenhouse, as does also F. Sie- 
boldi, which has magnificent leaves that are 
very striking on account of their colour, which 
is of a bluish metallic green, with a glaucous 
hue pervading the surface. Planted out in deep, 
moist, rich soil in a shady position, this peculiar 
hire is intensified, and plants of this Funkia 
form noble objects in the hardy fernery, or near 
the margins of ponds, in either of which posi¬ 
tions they look quite at home by associating well 
with the various surroundings. The best for 
growing for the sake of their flowers are F. sub- 
cordata grandifiora, which blooms in the 
antnmn, spathulata speoiosa. Fortune!, and the 
different varieties of ovata, the latter being 
very free and affording plenty to cut. The 
time to propagate and plant Funkias is from 
now to a month or so onwards, as they are jnst 
beginning to grow, and may with safety be 
taken up and divided to almost any extent. 
The way to effect the division is to either dig up 
the plants to be operated on and pull them apart, 
or, by the use of a sharp trowel or spade, cut 
clean through the crowns where they stand, 
seenring to each portion a prominent eye with 
plenty of root. The plants so obtained can then 
ba distributed about in the borders according to 
their strength, or planted out in rich soil some¬ 
where to grow on for lifting and cultivating in 
pate. When required for this purpose they 
Bhould be potted in the autumn or winter and 
stood in cold frames to come gradually on and 
fit them for forcing, which needs to be done 
slowly if the foliage is expected to be of good 
texture. To get the variegation fine the plants 
mnst have plenty of light, which may be afforded 
by keeping them well up to the glass, and it may 
be necessary also to keep them freely supplied 
with water and liquid manure.—S. 

The Cardinal Lobelia (L. cardinalis 
falgens).—This is such an extremely pretty and 
useful plant for the flower garden, when under 
liberal treatment, that it is quite invaluable, 
especially for a mixed style of gardening, where, 
in addition to bedding plants, biennials and 
perennials are largely employed. From the 
latter part of July until far into autumn no 
plant can surpass it in brilliancy ; its handsome 
foliage also is always strikingly effective. We 
winter our plants in a cold pit, where they re¬ 
main until early in March; they are then placed 
in a little warmth, when, as soon as the side 
shoots have grown 2 inches or 3 inches, they are 
divided into single plants, and returned to the 
quarters whence they came until well rooted, 
when they may be gradually hardened off, and 
finally planted out from the middle to the end 

DisituM by Google 


of April. A considerable advantage over 
ordinary bedding plants is thus gained, the 
plants being out of hand a month earlier, by 
which space and labour in watering at a very bnsy 
season are saved. If treated as a herbaceous 
plant, and left in the bed or border from year 
to year, this Lobelia throws up too many flower¬ 
ing stems, which do not attain the height, 
vigour, or luxuriance of plants that have 
been divided and reitricted to a single shoot, 
The beds chosen to receive them arc broken up 
2 feet deep, and well enriched with good rotten 
manure. They require plenty of room, and 
should be planted not less than 16 inches 
asunder, in order to allow the lateral shoots to 
fully develop, as it is from these laterals, after 
the main stem has finished flowering, that a 
brilliant and continuous display will be ob¬ 
tained. I was much pleased with some beds of 
this plant which I saw last season. They were 
planted with standard variegated Acers (slightly 
pruned) in the centre. The Lobelia came next, 
and the edging was Tagetes pumila. The bril¬ 
liant flowers and dark foliage of the Lobelia, 
mingling with the green and white of the Acers, 
was very rich and pleasing. These Lobelias were 
in the most robust health, from 4 feet to 6 feet 
in height, and well furnished with lateral shoots 
one mass of flower.—W. A. 

Propagating Hepaticas. — These are 
among the brightest and best of hardy early 
Bpring flowers, and they may be grown in any 
garden where a deep moist rather light soil 
can be afforded them. It is the nature of the 
Hepatica to strike its roots down deeply; con¬ 
sequently plants of it seldom succeed in a shal¬ 
low soil, and never in a dry, hot one. The 
hardest frost or the most searching cold does 
the plants no injury ; if they die, it is iuvariably 
from some cause over which the cultivator has 
control. The way Hepaticas are chiefly increased 
is by division of the roots, and in this way they 
are readily propagated, and immediately after 
blooming, just when the plants are actively ea- 
gaged in the production of leaves, is the best 
time for the operation. If well rooted, single 
eyes will make good plants by the following 
season, and they should be planted in a bed of 
deep and rather light loam, which should bo in 
a position accessible only to the morning sun. 
Cultivators of the Hepatica recommend that the 
plants should be parted not oftener than once in 
three or four yeais, as frequent divisions are apt 
to weaken them and cause some to die. 
Hepaticas are plants which will also repay the 
trouble of raisiug from seed, as thereby a great 
variety of colour is gained. The seed does not 
germinate till the following spring, bnt it 
should be sown when ripe. Turfy loam mixed 
about half-aud-balf with Cocoa-nut fibre is the 
best compost for sowing all such seed as will 
have to remain a long time in the pans; this 
compost does not become sour or consolidated. 
The pans may be placed in any cool frame or 
greenhouse, and the soil must be kept just moist. 
They should not be exposed to the sun, but 
should have a moist shady place so as to prevent 
the soil having to be often watered. Strong es¬ 
tablished plants of Hepaticas in pots will flower 
earlier than similar plants in the open border, 
and at a time when all kinds of flowers are 
scarce. It is well to have some under glass, as 
they are thus kept from rain and frost, and pre¬ 
serve their freshness and beauty for a long time. 

Ixlas, Sparaxls, and Tritonias. —For 

culture in the warm border, or to grow on in 
pots for the greenhouse or conservatory, these 
plants cannot be surpassed, to say nothing of 
them in a cut state for vases to adorn and light 
np the dwelling-room. They have most lovely 
colours of nearly every shade, being most rich 
and soft, and which will hold their own against 
the costly Orchids that require houses for their 
cultivation, and these three require only cold 
frames to shelter them in winter, and which, 
when grown and seen, will leave nothing to be 
desired, and I will now give a few plain 
remarks as to their wants, ice. First, then, I 
would mention that all three of the plants 
mentioned can be planted out on a warm border 
of flue, rich, mellow soil, that has been well 
worked by frequent diggings, and also enriched 
with manure, but owing to the Ixias making 
early growth, they require to be protected from 
spring frosts and cold, cutting winds ; but this 
can be done by putting borghs of Spruce, Fir, or 
Yew round the plants; but if cold pits or frames 


can be had, I would much rather grow them in 
pots, and by the end of April plant them out in 
the warm prepared border. If you have no 
frames to spare, plunge the pots in a good 
depth of ashes under a wall, for if yon keep 
them in pots to bloom in the conservatory, they 
will make a brilliant show. A rich, mellow 
loam, enriched with rotten cow manure and leaf- 
mould, and some sharp sand to keep the soil 
open, will suit them well, not forgetting to pro¬ 
vide thorough drainage in the pots. The Sparaxis 
are equally beautiful, but are more dwarf and 
have a different time of flowering, but the shades 
of colour are brilliant and striking. Lastly, the 
Tritonias are very fine, are taller than the pre¬ 
ceding ones, having much larger flowers, which 
either as a pot plant or in a cut state for vases, 
Ac., are most beautiful, the soft colours varying 
from orange to orange scarlet, bright orange, and 
white suffused with rose.—W. C. Leach, Fine- 
shade Abbey. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


10873.— Birds and fruit trees.—" Scoto" 
need not seek to destroy the sparrows for the 
sake of the buds on the Red and White Currant 
bushes. I will tell him how to preserve them. 
Choose a day when tne bushes are wet after a 
shower of rain, take some fresh slaked lime, 
then throw it over the bushes with your hand 
(not tied up in a bag) taking care to give a good 
dnsting. You need not be afraid of injuring the 
buds with the application. Dust as soon as tho 
leaves are off in the autumn, and again if the 
lime gets washed clean off, and the birds make 
another attack before the buds burst in the 
spring. We have hundreds of sparrowsjround 
the garden here, tut they don’t care for the lime 
and buds.— North Yorkshireman. 

-To prevent small birds eating the 

buds of Gooseberry and Currant trees, take 
some balls of knitting wool, either black or 
white, twine the threads loosely and many times 
among the branches. This mast be done in the 
autamn immediately on the fail of the leaf. I 
have found it an unfailing cure, so much so 
that when a bash is missed it is sure to suffer. 
Cut the wood of your bushes well back, so as to 
promote a strong growth of young shoots, and 
the trees will become themselves in a year or 
two.— Farmer’s Wipe. 


Indigent Amateur ,—If you look well over our 
advertisement column*, we think you will find you/ 
wants can be supplied at less than half the cost jou 

mention- D. K .—Take them otf if they become ton 

numerous and are not wanted to support the Vine shoots. 

- S. if.— At any respectable seed shop. Bead cur 

advertisement columns. 

Box .—It would be most unfair to leave at a moment’s 
notice, and it would also be unlawful to remove cuttings, 
Ac., without permission, but such things can generally 
be amicably settled if there is a will to do so 

John Page.— Try Messrs. Veitch and Sons, Royal 

Exotic Nursery, Chelsea.- Sam Warburton.—We do 

not know to what list you refer.- Portchebter.—\\u 

are unable to answer your query. 

Elsie.— Pereskia stocks can be obtained of many of 
the florists who advertise in our colnmns They are 
used for grafting different varieties of Cacti on. The 
Smllax can be got at most good plant nurseries. 

G. II. E .—At any hardy plant nursery. 

Name of plant. — R. F. Rendcl— The Winter 
Cherry (Physalis AlkekeDgi). 


QUERIES 


Rules for Correspondents .—All communica¬ 
tions for insertion should be clearly and concisely written 
on one side qf the paper only and addressed to the Editor. 
Letters relating to business to the Publisher. The name 
and address of the sender required, in addition to any 
nom (le plume to be used in Use paper. Aiistoers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title qf the query 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity qf 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day qf publication , it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the xcetk they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to u* again. 

Naming plants .—Four plants, fruits, or flowers only 
can be named at one time, and this only when good 
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to nanus 
varieties qf florists' flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
specialist who has the means qf comparison at hand. Any 
communication respecting plants or flowers sent to name 
should always accompany the parcel. 

10920.-Badly-managed greenhouse.—will any 
correspondent take the trouble to advise me under the 
following circumstances T I have a greenhouse about 
10 feet by 12 feet, sunk 2 feet under ground, and a half¬ 
span roof. In front is a brick wall raised 2 feet abovo 
ground, and behind another wall about 9 feet high ; on 
these walls the roof rest*. It is partly shaded by trees, 
but gets the sun from about ten o'clock in the morning 



544 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Jan. 26 , 1884 . 


till three o'clock in the afternoon. A Vine Is trained up 
the roof, and it la heated by a tire-place outside, which 
oommunlcate3 with a flue running all round the house. 
In this house the leaves of some Ferns get covered with 
black mould, some go white, and all shrivel up; the 
leaves of Geraniums turn yellow and drop off, also those 
of Arum Lilies. The growth of everything is weak and 
spindly. The only things that seem to do well are 
Cinerarias, Cyclamens, and Primulas. It is ventilated 
by two lights in the wall in front and two in the wall 
behind. The plants are well watered, and the house 
ventilated frequently. Can anyone oblige me by pointing 
out what it Is that is wrong in the management?— 
Rusticulus. 

10327.—Epiphvllums in London.—I should con¬ 
sider it a great favour if someone would tell me if I 
could in this part of London (Stoke Newington) succeed 
in growing Kpiphyllums and make them bloom during 
December ana January in our greenhouse, the night 
temperature of which is about 40°, but it does occa¬ 
sionally fall to 35° In very severe weather ? I should add 
that the structure is very light, and very much exposed 
to the weather, both sunshine and frost. We succeed 
well with Azaleas, Arums, Ferns (such as Lastreas, 
Fuchsias,Rplrwas, ifcc., but not,with Heaths. Primulas, 
Cyclamens, Camellias (drop their buds), Genistas, Ac. How 
cin Kpiphyllums bo increased? Can they be grown on 
own roots from sllp3?—A Youthful Amateur. 

10923.—Violets not blooming.—Violots grow, but 
do not bloom in my garden, although I have manured 
them, and lilned them, and given them leaf-mould and 
fresh soil, brought plants of all sorts, single and double, 
from other gardens, and placed them in all situations 
warm and shady. The white Violet grows and blooms 
in the hedgerows of cottages near, but no wild purple 
Violets are seen near, and no sweet Violets of any sort 
are seen growing wild in our hedgerows away from cot¬ 
tages or their sites. My garden is in Devonshire, about 
the centre of the county, and is upwards of 6.0 feet above 
sea level. Has this height anything to do with it ? I 
think that it must, as Violets bloom in profusion in the 
village gardens very much below us.— Hbsket. 

10929.—Beds of hardy flowers.—I have read with 
very great interest Mr. Alexander Sweet’s paper on 
“Hardy Flower Gardening” January 5, and would take It 
as a great favour if he or someone else would advise a 
lady amateur what to do with five small beds cut out in 
Grass, that are a great trouble under the present bedding- 
out system. They are on a narrow terrace opposite the 
windows, and run parallel to the avenue. From their 
peculiar position, I think tall-growing p’unts would not 
be suitable; at th3 same time, I would like to plant 
them with something that would be permanent. A few , 
hints would be most gratefully received.—N orth of 
IRELAND. 

1C930.—Tomatoes in Vineries.—Would someone 
give me advice on the following case? I have a large 
Vinery in which the Vines are planted 6 feet apart, 
trained with a single stem. There is nothing on the 
back walL What will be the most prolltable thing to 
plant it with ? How would Tomatoes do, or how will it 
answer to plant it for supplying cut llowers, and what 
will be the best things to plaut for that purpose 1 The 
house is upwards of 200 feet long, heated with hot water, 
so that I can supply heat or not at discretion.—L ove 
apple. 

10931.—Syringing plants.—I have a greenhouse 60 
feet away from the house. I have thought of obtaining 
an iodiarubber tube, and by means of a ready mode of 
attachment to the kitchen water tap, and by the aid of a 
fine rose at the other end of the tube, to syringe Vines, 
Rose trees, Camellias, *c. Would such syringing be 
beneficial or injurious, seeing that the water would come 
direct from the pipes, without any exposure to the air ? 
The water Is obtained from a large reservoir on the ad- j 
jacent hills in a sandstone district, and Is conveyed to us 
through iron pipes,-J. W. C. 

10932.—Pig lice in greenhouse.—I built a small 
greenhouse, about sixteen months since, and it is built 
in a corner whore the other tenaut kept pigs. My green¬ 
house is lufested with insects of a bright, glossy colour, 
and if touched they jump. 1 find that they are breeding 
very fast. I want to know if they are really pig lice, 
and, if so, what I am to do to destroy them 7 I have 
tried Boft soap, soot, and lime, well mixed with cold 
water, but they are still there. I am puzzled what to do. 
Any hints on the subject will be kindly received.— 
A. A. H. 

10933.—Roses in London areas—I live in 
Islington, and have an open area in front of the house 
below the level of the road. I have a rectangular box in 
the corner, 4 feet by 2 feet Could I grow a Gloire do 
Dijon Rose and a Honeysuckle up the front of the house, 
and would the Rose bloom ? I cannot claim to be even 
an amateur at gardening, as I have not started yet, but 
taking in Gardening I think I could learn ^enough to 
rear a few llowers. If someono could furnish the infor¬ 
mation I require I should be very grateful—J. S. 

10934—“Old Man”or “Southern-wood.”—For 
nearly three years past I have read, with great interest, 
the weekly numbers of Gardenin’ a as they have appeared, 
but have not yet met with any notice of the old-fashioned 
and sweet-scented favourite “Southernwood "(7) or 
“Old Man.” I shall feel glad if some reader may deem 
It worth while to state how the plant is grown and propa¬ 
gated, as I am sure that the plant is a popular one, 
especially amongst humbler classes.—J. G. W. 

10935.—Lily of the Valley.—My Lilyof.the Valley 
under a wall facing south has been very poor both In 
flowers and foliage for some years. They have had a 
top-dressing of manure at the end of each winter, but 
beyond this I believe nothing has ever been done to 
them Ought they to be moved? What aspect suits 
them best 7 If moved, how deep and in what soil should 
they bo placed ? When is the best time to move them, 
and what attention do they want generally 7 —Ttilk 
Boy. 

10936.—Rose election, 1883.—I should be greatly 
obliged to Mr. Walters, Burton on Trent, or any 
other reader, if he will kindly give the election list of 
1383 of Hybrid Ferpetual Roses, and also say if A. K. 
Williams Is not rather difficult to j.row, as those I have 
tried rnaVe a poor attempt to grow for a few weeks and 

Digitized by GOOgle 


then die off ? The election of 1882, as given by “ Mr. 
Walters," appeared to be greatly appreciated by many 
other readers of Gardening besides— Sam. 

10937.—Tomatoes from seed.—Will any reader 
kindly give some information on growing Tomatoes from 
seed ? I wish to grow some for planting out in the open, 
and should like to get them well forward before doing so, 
bo that there might be a prospect of ripening some fruit 
on the plants. 1 should like to know when and how to 
sow the seed, the kind of soil and treatment, best time to 
plant out, and best kind to grow for this purpose?— 
W. B. 

10938.—Belladonna Lilies.—I shall be much obliged 
for directions as to the cultivation of Belladonna Lilies, 
both under glass and out of doors. I tried some bulbs in 
a glass house last spring. On their withering up I planted 
them under a north wall in a garden where they have 
thrown out shoots, and seem healthy. Is It safe to leave 
them there ? My garden is very sunny, and has a dry 
limestone soil, and I find it very difficult to grow Lilies. 
—Gertrude. 

10939.—Sowing 1 annuals.-Having no glass in my 
garden, I should bo much obliged if any reader would 
kindly give me directions with regard to sowing annuals, 
such as Asters. Scabious, Zinnias, ifec., in cold frames. I 
should bo glad to have full directions from the time of 
sowing in boxes or pans, until they are ready to be 
planted out, and also the amount of water, air, and light 
they require.— Amateur. 

10940.—Turnip top3.—We are desirous to have 
Turnip tops, and although risked to do so year after 
year, our gardener has never succeeded in providing any. 
We should be thaukful for information as to the right 
sort of Turnips to sow and subsequent treatment. What 
is meant is honest green outdoor Turnip tops, not 
blanched greenhouse ones.—R. W. 

10941.— Gardening for profit.—A clerk, possessing 
some knowledge of outdoor kitchen gardening, will be 
glad to bo informed whether he can easily cultivate 
land which would produce sullicient cereals, fruit, and 
vegetables for the requirements of his own family, and 
surplus to Bell or exchange for clothing and other things 
that cannot be grown. In what country would such a 
scheme be most easily workable?— Scribe. 

10942.—Planting Potatoes.—A piece of waste 
ground along the railway, say one-fifth of an acre, is in¬ 
tended to be planted with potatoes. I may say the ground 
is surrounded with trees. Would it bo profitable to go 
to the expense of £2 10s. for Beed Potatoes, and two or 
three loads of dung, at 3s. per load ? I may say the toil 
is considered good.—A. C. 

10943 .—Pruning: roots of standard Roses.— 
Being about to shift some standard Rose trees that have 1 
bien in their present position for some few years, and I 
doubtless have a good quantity of roots, will someoue 
enlighten me as to the pruning of the roots before re¬ 
planting ? I may mention that the removal will take 
place as soon as I get the information.—H. P. 

10944.—Treatment of Justlclas —Will someone 
kindly tell me how to treat a Justicia 7 It Is about 3 feet 
high. The tips of the large leaves are all dying, and last 
year the heads of bloom fell off when just about to opeu. 
What soil should I use for potting ? It is in a greenhouse 
with only heat sufficient to keep out frost.—N. S. B. 

10945.—Rose Cellpe Forestler.—Will some reader 
of Gardening give me the probable reason of this Rose 
not flowering? It make3 good growth in a bed with 
Hybrid Perpetuals and Teas, which all flower well. I 
have now had it three years, and have OHly had one 
small flower.—S am. 

10946.—Club-rooted Cabbage, &c.—For the last 
two or three years the greater part of the green stuff In my 
garden (Cabbages, Sprouts, Ac ) has turned out to be 
club rooted, although puddled at time of planting. What 
is the reason, and what is the remedy ? The ground is 
now roughly dug.— Elmhurst. 

10947.—Pruning: Vines.—I have a Grape Vine 
(white) ten years old, has borne fruit several years, last 
year only three bunches. I think I pruned it wrong. 
Shall I let it remain this season until the bunches show 
before I prune it ? Iam sure there are too many canes 
in now.—IIiTTi rK. 

10948.—Ants ia Rose beds.—Would some reader 
kindly give an effectual way of removing ants from Rose 
beds ? I have tried soot, sulphur, flr tree oil, Ao., with¬ 
out mnch success. I would also like to know if charcoal 
is good for colouring roses, and how it should be used ? 
—A Reader. 

10949.—Plants for vinery.—Will any reader of 
Gardening tell me what I can grow In a back border of 
a cold lean-to vinery through the summer months for 
profit, without doing harm to the Grape Vines overhead ? 
Will Tomatoes do, if so, what kind ?—W. J. E. 

10950.—Coronllla not flowering—I have some 
plants of Coronllla. Kindly say why the Coronllla will 
not flower? I have tried it potbouod and otherwise, and 
put it outside In summer, and yet, though healthy, it 
will not flower.—II. Tu. 

10951.—Brussels Sprouts —Is it of any use trying 
to grow Brussels Sprouts in a garden, the top soil of 
which is moderately good mould for about a spade deep, 
and the subsoil stiff clay ? A few directions will oblige. 
—A. G. P. 

10952. -Hoya carnosa.—I have three Hoyacamosa 
plants four years old, they grow, but have never 
flowered. Eow am I to proceed to get them to flower ? 
—Hittitr. 

10953. — Propagatic g Rhododendrons. — Can 
Rhododendrons be increased by cuttings ; If so, at what 
time should the cuttings be taken, and what treatment 
should they receive ?—J. B 

10954.—Insects on fruit trees.—I have found seme 
insects under the bark of some Apple Trees, which have 
become very unhealthy, ulcers forming ou the branches 
like canker. Could tho Insects be the cause of it?— 
W. W. 

10955 —Repotting: FdCbeias, &c.—In shaking out 
old Fuchsia*, Gtranlumi, and Chrysanthemums, must I 
take away all the soil before repotting ?—IIlTTITB. 


10956 —Propagating Bullruehes.—Can anyone 
Inform me of the best means of propagating Bullruehes, 
as I want to have some in a small pond? Is it possible 
to grow them from seed ?—K. D. P. 

10957.—Position for Fraxinella —What is the 
proper place for the Fraxlnella dictamnus ? Should it 
be in the sun or in a shady place? Is it fastidious as to 
soil ? Any information will oblige.—D. 

10958. Cutting down Chrysanthemums —I 
have some nice Chrysanthemums just going out of bloom. 
Ought I to cut them down or leave the old wood for 
another year ?—lady Dorothea. 

10959.—Potting 1 old Fuchsias.—I have some very 
flue old Fuchsias. I have had them under the greenhouse 
stage some time. Will they want potting in fresh soil, 
and what other treatment do they require ?-Aubert. 

10960.—Lilies In limestone soil.—I am desirous 
for suggestions as to the treatment of Lilies in a dry 
limestone soil. Mine is a sunny garden. I have also a 
north wall.— Gertrude. 

10961.—Oxalis out of doors.—Is it safe to grow 
Oxalis versicolor, Ac., out of doors, with covering of 
coal ashes in winter, or does the species do l>est under 
glass ?—Gertrude. 

109G2 —Best single Roees.—Will some of your 
readers be kind enough to furnish a list of the beat single 
Roses to grow, with their colours, and give an opinion as 
to whether they are really worth growing.—N kmo. 

10963— Flower pots.—Will someone please state 
the various sizes iu which flower pots are mode, and the 
number of each size to a cast 7—STOPEERT. 

10964.—Bulbs for glasses.—I would like to know 
if there are any other bulbs beside* Hyacinths that can 
be grown in glasses.— Elsie. 

10965.—Planting Pampas Grass.—Will someone 
kindly inform me the right time to plant roots of Pampas 
Grass ; also the best method of planting?—R uthro. 

10960.—Palms in pots. —What Is the best kind of 
manure water to use for Palms growu in pots, and what 
time of the year la best for re-potting them ? -B. 

10907 — Arbutus.—What U the best plan of raising 
the Arbutus from berries ?—E. O’B. 

10968.—Single Dahlias—Name wanted of best 
single pink Dahlia.—S. M. 


POULTRY. 


Poultry for profit .—Constant Reader — 
On a piece of ground 13 yards by 10 yards, yon 
could keep a ecore of birds well. By the Silver 
I’heasant Fowl we presume you mean Silver 
Hamburgbs. You have been rightly informed 
as to their wonderful laying properties, but as 
you require a good laying and table fowl com¬ 
bined, we cannot recommend your keeping 
Hamburghs. They are very small, and are not 
so hardy as many other kinds. Another serious 
drawback consists in their propensity for wan¬ 
dering into neighbours’ gardens. They will fly 
over almost any fence, in fact, just like Phea¬ 
sants, and small runs require to be covered 
over with wire netting in order to keep them 
within bounds. We should recommend you to 
try Plymouth Rocks. They are very fair layers 
all the year round, besides being capital table 
fowl. They are hardy, standing confinement 
well, and are easily kept within their own run. 
Soaked bread is not bad food for fowls, but is 
greatly improved by working in as much barley 
or other meal as will make it into a dry crumbly 
mass.— Andalusian. 

Poultry diseased. — I have a poultry run, 
half an acre in extent, consisting of good grass, 
with a good fence around, and capital house 
with plenty of perches. X keep 50 hens (prin¬ 
cipally pallets) and 3 cocks. The last few days 
I have noticed some of them with an eye very 
much swollen, which I attributed to their fight¬ 
ing, but have found to-day some quite blind in 
both eyes, and on examination the eyes were 
closed, very much swollen, with pus about them. 
I should be glad to hear what the disease is, and 
what treatment they require. I have also two 
or three which hang about the house. They 
take little notice of food, and make a slight 
noise in their throat as though they had some¬ 
thing fast in it. I have to-day fastened up in a 
separate house the suffering ones. I just add 
that the above fowls I bought three weeks ago. 

I feed on wheat, dari, and Indian com, with 
scalded Indian meal occasionally, and am 
getting five and six eggs a day.—J. D. 

Fowls dying.— W. Durant .—Your fowls 
have been overfed, and are suffering from liver 
disease in consequence. Yon state yon give 
them boiled lights, chopped np, every mid day. 
This is too often. Twice a-week is plenty, it 
over stimulates and deranges the stomach. Too 
had better give the remaining birds a slight 
aperient, such as half a grain of calomel per 
head every other day, for a week or ten day? 
Mix it np in the soft food. If any show signs of 
being ill, ?ep»ra‘e from th« others, and after 
givi ig the apeiient feed for a few days on mil 




GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. V. 


SOME GARDEN FRIENDS AND FOES. 
Window gardeners, as well as those who 
undertake the charge of their own Bmall green¬ 
houses, should be more than usually on the alert 
during this mild weather to check the spread of 
green-fly. The early days of the year through¬ 
out January and February are always well em¬ 
ployed in getting rid as much as possible of 
this, one of our worst enemies, for now there is 
comparative leisure before the bu6y season of 
seed sowing, and the repotting of B’erns and 
other plants begins to make demands on our 
time and attention. It is probable that if 
amateur gardeners were more acquainted with 
the life-history of some of our common insect 
plagues, we should be better able to resist their 
attacks, while at the same time, we should get 
a glimpse of the wonders of a world about us, 
of which the majority, much to their own loss, 
know little or nothing. Gardeners, as a rule, 
do not aim at being entomologists; but even a 
smatteiing of knowledge is of some practical use, 
if it enables us to distinguish between our 
insect friends and foes. There is no question 
at all, however, about the place we assign to the 
aphis or green-fly. It is unmistakeably a foe, 
and we wage nnceasing war against it, and yet 
many of us would find it hard, as in the case of 
many another common thing, to explain the 
reason why. A plant infested with aphides 
looks sickly, it is true, and the mass of living 
green creatures, clustering on the shoots, or 
leaves, or flowers, is in itself repulsive ; but it 
is difficult to realise that an individual aphis 
has any special power of inflicting injury on the 
plant upon which it is found, and so it goes on 
exercising its threefold power of mischief under 
our very eyes until, not nnfrequently, we 
suddenly wake up one fine day to find that the 
evil is almost beyond remedy. This destructive 
power lies, first of all, in the singular pumping 
machine which the insect possesses, by which 
it sucks out and lives upon the juices of the 
plants. It requires sharp eyes to detect it with¬ 
out the aid of a lens, but every aphis is provided 
with a hollow beak cr proboscis, furnished with 
certain thread-like suckers. This beak is longer 
or shorter according to the nature of the feed¬ 
ing ground of the particular species. In the 
case of a large dark-brown aphis which is found, 
though rarely, upon the bark of the oak, the 
beak is so long that it is folded beneath the body, 
and appears like a tail at the other side, and is 
strong enough to enable the insect to penetrate 
the crevices of the rugged bark, in order to 
reach its food. Be it long or short, however, 
the proboscis is specially adapted to the nature 
of the plant to be tapped, and is furnished, be¬ 
sides, with a set of cutting bristles, for the pur¬ 
pose of sawing or lancing the spot on the surface 
of the leaf to which the aphis is about to affix 
its snckers. It is supposed that the irritation 
thus produced encourages an additional flow of 
sap to the wounded part. The action of pump¬ 
ing, being once begun, never ceases on the part 
of the aphis (except when on the move to a new 
pasture) during the whole course of its life, 
which lasts probably about six weeks, though 
occasionally it may be prolonged. For, unlike 
other insects with which we are familiar, it has 
no resting time, during which, as a chrysalis, it 
passes from one stage of its existence to another. 
Thus it is easy to understand that even a few of 
these insatiable pumpers would drain the sap, 
which is the life, more quickly than a plant 
could elaborate a fresh supply. 

But the capabilities of our enemy, alas, do 
not cease with her powers of suction. I say 
“ her ’’ advisedly, for every individual aphis (with 
comparatively few exceptions) becomes literally 
a mother of millions. Wingless or winged, in 
every stage of its life, each one continues to 
produce countless broods of young, so that it 
has been computed by those who have made 
the subject a special study—“ that from one egg 
only 729,000,000 aphides would be produced in 
seven generations, taking thirty as the average 
of each brood, twenty being the minimum and 
forty the maximum; so that if they all lived, 
everthing on the face of the earth would be 
covered with them.” For in spite of this ex¬ 
traordinary rate of multiplication of living 

Di 9 i. iz «lS» GOUgk 


FEBRUARY 2, 1884. 


broods, certain of the creatures, in preparation 
for the winter, do lay eggs. Late in autumn, 
these being more frost proof than the living 
insects, are deposited by twos or threes together, 
and hidden in the axils of the leaf-buds of the 
chosen plants, in order to ensure the perpetua¬ 
tion of the species in the spring. The eggs, 
which in most cases are black and shining, like 
grains of gunpowder, are not very easy to 
discern; but the shoots of Rose bushes and 
other shrubs in the open air are likely places in 
which to find and to destroy them, for every egg 
destroyed is, in so far, a benefit to humanity. 
In the greenhouse I have never succeeded in 
finding a trace of eggs. Possibly the maternal 
instinct is strong enough to make the insect 
aware that her progeny will need no shelter to 
enable them to shift for themselves, and 6he 
flies away to deposit her eggs in other feeding 
grounds convenient for the hatching out of new 
queen aphides destined to be the founders of 
new colonies elsewhere. For in the aphis com¬ 
munity it appears that the insects hatched from 
the eggs take the highest rank as progenitors of 
the race. When we consider that a young aphis 
at a few days old is capable of reproducing 
itself at the rate of eight or ten (to be quite within 
the mark) in a single day, it ceases to be sur¬ 
prising that these terrible pestB should commit 
the ravages that they do. For be it remembered 
that the dreaded Phylloxera of the vineyards, 
and the fly which despoils our own hop gardens 
and many of our field crops, are neither more nor 
less than different species of aphis. The second 
and most formidable power if mischief which 
belongs to the tribe is to be found, assuredly 
then, in the incredible rapidity with which they 
increase. We are all familiar with the two forms 
of aphis life, the wingless and the winged. 
These are merely variations in the same family, 
for it is a singular fact that when the supply of 
sap in any particular plant infested by aphides 
begins to run short, wings are developed by the 
next brood in order that they may be able to 
remove to fresh feeding grounds, there to re¬ 
commence their work of suction. 

Considerably more than a hundred different 
species of British aphides are known to natural¬ 
ists, and have been minutely described and 
carefully illustrated; and they are named prin¬ 
cipally from the plant on which they feed, and 
to which they seem specially to belong; but 
there are certain trees and shrubs, for example, 
the Oak, the Willow, the Fir, and the Currant 
bush, which are infested by several distinct 
species. We are chiefly concerned at present 
with those which attack our garden and house 
plants, many of which are identified with their 
own peculiar species. One very common kind 
is the Rose aphis, which is so hardy as often to 
survive an ordinary winter ; another exclusively 
attacks the Honeysuckle, and in the greenhouse 
Pelargoniums, Cinerarias, and malvaceous plants 
have each their particular visitant. Cineraria 
growers, especially, are well aware of the mis¬ 
chief caused by aphides to their favourite plants; 
and from the drooping and early decay of the 
leaves, which cannot altogether be accounted for 
by mere depletion, it has been inferred that this 
species may possess some peculiarly poisonous 
quality. Certain families of plants, however, 
seem to be exempt or nearly so from these in¬ 
sects. Amongst those so reckoned may be men¬ 
tioned the various kinds of Iris, of Fumitories, 
and of Gentians; but I have myself found 
aphides, though not in great numbers, on some 
greenhouse Irids, eg., I. chinensis. From personal 
observation, it seems to me that zonal Pelargo¬ 
niums of the kind old-fashioned folk used to 
call the cloth-leaved, and some succulent plants 
such as Cacti and Mesembryanthemums, are 
more free than most plants from their attacks. 

The literature relating to the aphis tribe is of 
great scientific as well as practical interest, as 
we may surmise from the voluminous writings 
on the subject for the last 150 years, but still 
there remain questions to solve with regard to 
their structure and habits, and many differences 
of opinion exist. One of these puzzles has been 
as to whether honeydew is or is not the work of 
aphides, but naturalists are now pretty well 
agreed upon this point, and a very troublesome 


No. 25tt. 


and mischievous work we gardeners find it to 
be. By the aid of a magnifying glass anyone 
can see for himself the two nectaries, or siphons, 
at each side of the body by which this sweet 
secretion is distributed—much to the satisfac¬ 
tion, doubtless, of their particular friends the 
ants, whose attentions to aphides (which have 
been facetiously called their milch cows), are 
sober facts and not fiction. Aphides harbour 
chiefly—to carry out the instinct of concealment 
which more or less belongs to all the species— 
upon the under surfaces of leaves. Consequently 
the upper surfaces of those below them receive 
the sweet sticky deposit, which chokes their 
pores and effectually prevents healthy evapora¬ 
tion. After a time, if remedial measures are 
not promptly taken, the honeydew becomes 
blackened by a fungoid growth of the nature of 
mildew, which is both unsightly and very inju¬ 
rious to the infected plant 

But the balance of power is, after all, not 
wholly on the Bide of the aphides A host of 
enemies, other than man, is ranged against them ; 
and in waging our own warfare, we must take 
care not to destroy our friendly allies together 
with our foes. It would be impossible here to 
mention a tithe of them; but there are four 
common to gardens and greenhouses with which 
every one who possesses either should be 
familiar. Most of us know these better as 
perfect insects than in their earlier states of life; 
and in fact, it was on account of being on one 
occasion caught by an entomologist in the act 
of destroying a friendly grub, that the writer 
first began to take an interest in garden friends 
and foes. There is often to be seen in our 
greenhouses about nightfall, in the months of 
May and June, a beautiful green “ moth" (fir 
so we are apt to call all winged nocturnal in¬ 
sects) which blunders with a weak, uncertain 
flight against the plant9, or takes refnge in shel¬ 
tering corners of the rafters. She has four 
large gauzy wings, a green body, and bright, 
shining eyes, on account of which she receives 
her popular name of “Golden Eye.” She is not 
a moth at all, but a lace-winged fly, and when 
we find her in our plant-houses she is probably 
on the look out for a suitable leaf on which to 
fasten her eggs. She is much more particular, 
however, about the neighbourhood of the leaf 
than about the plant upon which it grows, for 
should she meet with one set in the midst of a 
crowd of aphides, there she makes ready to 
deposit some ten or twelve eggs. These may be 
recognised at once, for each white egg is poised 
on the top of a slender white stem which is 
made fast to a rib, or sometimes to the edge, of 
the leaf. In due time, the lid of each egg is 
pushed open and the grub comes down his lad¬ 
der to find himself at once in the midst of his 
food. For this greyish brown grub is a famous 
aphis hunter, and seizes them by his powerful 
mandibles and devours them—a dozen at a meal, 
until he is, in entomological'anguage, full fed, 
and ready to go to sleep iu his cocoon for the 
second stage of his history. But during his 
active life he has the strange habit of hiding 
himself under the skins of his victims, which he 
tosses over his head as soon as he has done with 
them, and there they stay, held fast in place by 
certain fork-like bristles, intended for the pur¬ 
pose, so that he is often mistaken for a bit of 
grey lichen, or fluffy dust. If aphides should 
fail, he will make shift with a caterpillar or two, 
and will even fall upon his own kin when con¬ 
venient ; but ferocious as he is, he is our friend 
and must be spared whenever we chance upon 
him. 

Another friendly "aphis lion"—a name 
coined, by the way, for these useful grubs nearly 
a hundred and fifty years ago by the French 
naturalist RGaumur—belongs toa 1 wo-winged fly, 
which has the general appearance of, and is, in 
fact, often mistaken for a small species of wild 
bee. It is more correctly known by the popular 
name of the hawk-fly, from its quivering, darting 
motion which recalls the hovering of a kestrel 
poised on the wing. These, unlike the lace- 
wings, fly only by day, and delight in bright, 
warm sunshine; and the hum in the air on a hot 
summer morning may safely be attributed in a 
measure to the multitude of hawk-flies which are 





546 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Feb. 2 , 1884 . 


<1 ai ting hither and thither, hovering between 
while) on their outspread wings while they hum 
their short lives away. There are a great num¬ 
ber of different hawk-flies, and in their earliest 
state they are very commonly to be met with in 
our greenhouses. The grub is a semi-trans¬ 
parent, leech-like creature, varying in colour 
according to species from bright green to pale 
brown, with a stripe down its back of a darker 
shade. It may readily be distinguished by the 
way in which it anchors itself by its tail to a 
leaf or branch, and elongates its body as it 
seizes an aphis with its trident-armed head. It 
then raises itself in the air, and, stretched out 
in this attitude, it voraciously sucks its victim 
dry, and, casting away its empty skin, makes 
ready to devour its next neighbour. When it 
ceases to feed, it hangs itself up on a branch 
or leaf-stalk; its skin becomes bard and dry, 
and we may often find it in the form of a 
brown Pear-shaped drop awaiting the moment 
of exit as a perfect fly. Wild beast in miniature, 
as it is, we must spare it, no less than the lace¬ 
wing. Next in crder come the ladybirds — 
almost the only insects which children are tradi¬ 
tionally taught to respect — and these arc 
amongst the most deadly foes of the aphis, for 
both in the larval and perfect state aphides con¬ 
stitute their chief food, rill over the world these 
little scarlet-coated beetles are held sacred as the 
friends of mankind, witness their continental 
names of Vachesa Dien (God's Kine), and Madon- 
nine or Uestioline del Signore, which, being freely 
translated, is none other than our own familiar 
lady-cow or lady-bird. The grub is lead coloured 
or slate-grey, with a few yellow or red spots. It 
is rather more than a quarter of an inch in 
length, having six legs, and is even more for¬ 
midable as an aphis destroyer than the perfect 
insect itself. We meet with it generally in the 
form of a little dark grey roundish lump, firmly 
glued to a leaf by its tail, round which is loosely 
hanging the remnants of the former skin ont of 
whish it has wriggled. It is then in its chrysalis 
state, but soon emerges as a hard winged lady¬ 
bird. Let ns encourage them by all means, 
especially the large seven-spotted species, which 
is one of the gardeners’ best friends, being able 
and willing to clear a Pelargonium or a Rose 
bash of aphides at the rate of thirty or forty in 
an hour. 

Last and least in size, but not in nsefnlness, 
is a minute ichneumon fly which lays its eggs in 
the living aphis. Strictly speaking, there are 
many different species, all doing the same work, 
but we will take one as the type. This parasitic 
fly pierces the aphis and deposits a single egg in 
its body, and the careful observer may see tiie 
mother ichneumon running over tiie backs of 
the doomed aphides to select one which has not 
already been made a victim. If we miss seeing 
this, we constantly meet with the effects of its 
work in the hard brown case which is all that 
remains of the foster-aphis after its tormentor, 
full winged, takes its flight, and if we use a 
magnifying glass, the round hole of escape 
through which it passed out of the dried shell 
of the aphis will be plainly visible. It seems 
scarcely credible, but it is, nevertheless, a fact, 
that in this nineteenth century science has not 
been able to devise remedial measures on a 
grand scale against a plagae of aphides, which 
are able to supersede or improve upon the 
natural check put upon their increase by the 
above named and other innumerable insect foes 
But Nature's hand holds the balance true. As 
to our greenhouses and pot plants, we may con¬ 
sider ourselves, with regard to aphides, masters 
of the situation, so long as the good old adage— 
“ Prevention is better than cure ”—remains our 
maxim. K. L. D. 

Liquid manure.—To prepare a strong 
liquid manure, fill a tub with water, into which 
throw fresh cow manure, pigeon’s or fowl's 
manure, scraps of flesh offal, guano, bone-dust, 
&o , either one or more of these matters may be 
used. The vessel should not be covered, but the 
air should be allowed to have free access to the 
liquid. It should also be stirred up from time 
to time. As soon as fermentation sets in, it is 
ready for use It should be poured through a 
sieve into the watering-can, and applied to the 
plants in the morning or evening. It is advis¬ 
able to dilute this with more water if it should 
be too concentrated, aB then it is injurious. Ex¬ 
perience and observation of its effects will soon 
5each whether it is.top strong or not. Liquid 


manure such as described, if used at the proper 
time, is one of the best means for securing a 
luxuriant growth and bloom. Soot may also be 
mixed (put in the tub in a canvas bag) with 
advantage.—D. R. 


DOUBLE JAPANESE PINK. 

This is a double form of Dianthus Heudewigi, 
named atropurpurens fiore-pleno. It is an excel¬ 
lent summer flowering plant, and is best raised 
from seed every year. Seed may be sown in a 
warm house or frame in February or March, and 


boogie 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 



Double Japanese Pink 
{Diauthns Eeddevrigi flore-pleno). 

the plants be pnt out after being duly hardened 
off in May, or the seed may be sown in April in 
light soil in the open air, where the plants are | 
intended to bloom. For supplying cut flowers, 
no better plant could be grown by owners of 
Bmall gardens. 


NOTES ON CHRYSANTHEMUM CULTURE. 
Tiie time has now arrived when intending 
growers should be busy amongst their plants. 

Striking cuttings.— Insert four cuttings 
in a 3-inch pot, in a compost of equal quantities 
of Cocoa-fibre and ordinary soil, with plenty of 
silver sand. Water with a fine rose, and plunge 
the pots up to their rims in Cocoa-fibre in a 
frame, or place in a greenhouse and keep them 
shut up close for a few weeks, which keeps them 
from flagging. Cover the lights well in frosty 
weather. As soon as they show signs of having 
rooted, a little air Bhould be given in the day¬ 
time in favourable weather, but if the plants 
are intended for exhibition the cuttings should 
now be rooted and ready for potting, and this is 
done as follows—Shake the cuttings out of the 
cuttiog pots and repot singly into 3-inch pots, 
using a compost of loam and leaf soil, with 
enough silver sand to keep it porous. They 
should then be placed in a frame and be kept 
shut up close for a few days, then give air on 
every favourable occasion. It should now be 
decided whether the plants are to be grown to 
obtain exhibition blooms, specimen plants, 
greenhouse or outdoor cultivation, and as the 
culture is slightly different, I will take first the 
mode of culture to obtain 

Exhibition blooms. — The young plants 
should be carefully attended to as above directed 
until early in April. They should then be potted 
into 6-inch pots and stood in a sheltered position 
out-of-doors. They will be ready for their 
final potting early in June into 8^-inch pots, 
which size will be found quite large enougli to 
bloom the plants in, and the soil for this fioal 
potting should consist of three parts good loam 
and one part well decayed manure, with a good 
sprinkling of sand. A handful of bone dust 
and a little soot to each pot will be of great 
benefit. The plants should now have stakes pnt 
to them, and be stood on ashes in a sunny 
position. As the plants grow they should 
receive plenty of clear water and be syringed 
overhead at least twice a day daring hot wea¬ 
ther. The plants will (about July) throw out 


side shoots, and fTom three to six (according to 
the variety) should be retained, and all others 
pinched off. On these shoots the flower buds 
will appear (which will be about September), 
and if good exhibition blooms are desired they 
must be disbudded, i.e , there will be seen at the 
end of each stem a cluster of buds, and the 
centre one should be left and all others taken 
off with the point of a sharp knife. It is cow 
time to commence to give manure water, which 
should be given weak at first, increasing the 
strength till the buds show colour, when it 
should be gradually withheld. The plants 
should also have occasional waterings with soot 
water. If the plants are wanted as 

Specimen plants, or for greenhouse 
decoration, proceed as follows As soon 
as the plants are established in 3-inch 
pots, pinch ont the top, and they will then 
throw ont side shoots; they should then 
be potted into 6-inch pots. When the 
shoots are abont 4 inches long, again 
pinch them ; they should then be placed 
in their blooming pots, and if the plants 
have as many shoots as desired, they 
should not again be pinched, but if more 
shoots are desired, continue pinching 
until the required number of shoots are 
obtained. But to have the plants in bloom 
by November, they should not be pinched 
after the beginning of June. Stand in a 
sunny position, and treat as above directed 
for exhibition blooms. About the end of 
September the plants (if intended for 
specimen plants) should be trained into 
shape, and to do this, put one stick in the 
centre of the pot and tie a shoot to this, 
then put four more sticks at equal dis¬ 
tances around the centre stick, and tie a 
shoot to each stick and so continue until 
the shoots have each a stick to them. In 
tying, care should be taken to bring the 
end to top of stick, and in finishing, the 
shoots should be brought to the rims of the 
pots. If the tying is carefully and evenly done 
the plants will.appear in the form of a hand¬ 
some bash, with leaves covering the rim of the 
pot. If wanted for greenhouse decoration, 
treat as above directed as to pinching, Ac, 
but the plants will only require two or three 
sticks to keep the stems from getting broken. 

Another form in which to growthem is as stan¬ 
dards, for which the cultivation is as follows:— 
The cuttings when rooted should be potted 
singly and grown on in a warm house until the 
required heightis attained, then stopthem They 
will then throw ent shoots, and a few of those 
near the top should be retained, and all others 
pinched off. Pot on as above directed, and 
when placed in their blooming pots they should 
have a strong stake put to them, the 6tem 
securely tied, and be stood in a sunny position 
outdoors. Now procure a hoop about feet or 2 
feet in diameter, and tie two sticks across it. 
This hoop should now be tied securely to the 
stake to which the plant is tied, and three more 
sticks shonld be tied to the hoop and inserted in 
the soil at equal distances apart. This will keep 
the hoop secure, and when the plants are housed 
these supports can be cut away. Attend carefully 
to stopping the plants as soon as a shoot attains 
4-inches. The after culture as to manure, kc , 
is as above directed, care being taken I to train 
the plants regularly over the hoop, so that by 
the time they are housed they will appear like a 
well-grown standard Rose tree. 

Outdoor culture.—P roceed as follows: 
Pot off cuttings, place in cold frame, and pinch 
as above directed. Plant out-of-doors in well- 
prepared soil in the month of March, bnt care 
should be taken only to plant ont varieties that 
flower early, because if the late varieties such 
as Princess Teck, Ethel, and others are planted 
out and frost Bets in early, very little bloom 
may be expected ; but to remedy this, a good 
selection of 

Early-flowering varieties shonld be 
planted, and these are becoming largely grown, 
especially in the more northern parts, as they 
may be had in flower from June to November, 
and are very useful for outdoor cultivation. If 
cuttings are struck in May and grown on in 
pots, they will make nice plants for the conser¬ 
vatory. Care should be taken to carefully look 
after 

Insects, especially earwigs, as these do great 
injury to the plants. If the plants get infested 
with green-fly, a dusting with Tobacco powder 


/ 


Fkh. 2, 1881] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


547 


;> 

t 


early &i the morning when the dew is on the 
plants, will soon get them clear. 

Housing thk plants. —About the first week 
in October the plants should be taken into the 
greenhouse or placed under some temporary 
covering to protect them from wet weather and 
frost, but plenty of air should be given on all 
favourable occasions. After flowering the plants 
should be cut down and placed in a frame or 
other place safe from frost, when cuttings will 
shoot up and can be treated as above directed. 

Uoliotcay , London. W. B. Boyce. 


Tropaaolum tuberosum.— This is one 
of the best climbers for covering a wall or 
trellis. The cultivation is very simple, the 
soil most suitable for it being a sandy loam. If 
it is planted in rich soil, and manure is added to 
it, the chances are that you get a splendid dis¬ 
play of foliage 1 but very little bloom : if, on the 
contrary, the soil is poor, and the tubers have been 
well started in pots previous to placing them in 
their quarters, they will produce flowers in abun¬ 
dance. I purchased a tmrer from a nursery in 
January of last year, and at once potted it and 
placed it in the greenhouse until the weather was 
sufficiently mild, when I planted it against a 
wall having a south aspect. It soon made good 
progress, and continued to Sower in a splendid 
manner until October, when I found it had 
covered a space of twenty feet. In December 
I lifted the root very carefully and found I was 
the possessor of 35 tubers, some of them being 
larger than the one which I planted. All the 
plants require while in full growth is plenty of 
water at the roots.—W. H. S. 

Ueaembryanthemums —Sow in March 
in a gentle heat in light, porous soil; prick off 
when large enough into pots, pans, or boxes: 
harden off and plant out in Slay. They will com¬ 
mence flowering almost immediately. They are 
well adapted for planting on rockworb, &c. I 
remember visiting a garden a good many years 
ago where all the broad walks were lined with 
Portugal Laurels in tubs, and the tops of the 
tubs were planted with Mesembryanthemum 
tricolor. The growth was full and dense, and 
overhung the Bides, and when the sun shone, 
and the flowers were open, the effect was quite 
unique.— H. 


GLORY OF THE SNOW. 
(Chionodoxa Lucili^:.) 

This pretty spring-flowering bulbous plant is 
now so plentiful that every one should grow it. 
It makes a neat and handsome little bed by 
jtself, and for early flowering in pots it is a 



Glory of the Snow (Chionodoxa Luriliar) 


gem among hardy bulbs. The Chionodoxa 
Lucilise is, in fact, the finest addition that has 
recently been made to our list of hardy spring- 
flowering dwarf bulbous plants. Its habit at 
once reminds one of the two-leaved Squill 
(Scilla bifolia), as it rarely develops more 
than a pair of leaves. The blossoms, from five 
to ten in number, are produced on gracefully 
arched stems, from 4 inches to 8 inches high, 
and are each nearly 1 inch across, star-like in 
form, and of a beautiful blue tint on the out¬ 
side, gradually merging into pare white in the 
centre. As to the hardiness of Chionodoxa 
Lneili® there can be no doubt?, as it has with- 

C.o gle 


stood several trying winters with impunity, and 
flowered freely during March and April. It 
appears to seed freely, and may, therefore, be 
rapidly increased. It will grow freely in any 
good garden soil that is not too heavy and 
damp. 


Propagating Clematises. —The usual 
method of propagating these is by grafting a 
young shoot on a piece of root of the common 
kind, that is so far as concerns the ligneous 
species, the herbaceous ones being of course in¬ 
creased by division. Those for which grafting 
is employed can also be multiplied by means of 
cuttings made of the half-ripened wood put in 
during the summer months; but the most suc¬ 
cessful way of striking them, if the plants are in 
pots, is to put them in a growing temperature 
about February, when the young shoots will 
push forth in abundance, but in a somewhat 
weakly condition. These Bhoots if taken off 
readily strike root. The principal thing to guard 
against is damping off; but when once they have 
formed roots the danger in this direction is then 
over. When struck the cuttings must be allowed 
to have more air than hitherto, and as soon as 
possible they should be potted off. The advan¬ 
tage of striking thns early is that a long season 
of growth is thereby secured, and for the same 
reason grafting should be performed with sis 
little delay os possible. For stocks take strong 
fleshy roots of the common Traveller’s Joy 
(C. Yitaiba), or of C. Flammula, aDd cut them 
up into lengths of from 4 inches to 6 inches, 
leaving as many of the small fibres attached to 
them as possible. The scions must be youDg 
shoots of the current year, and should not be of 
too great a length; a couple of well-developed 
leaves and a pushing bod will be sufficient. 
Split the top of the stock, then cut the scion in 
the form of a wedge, and insert it in the cleft por¬ 
tion, being careful not to bruise the tender 
succulent scion, and also observe that the cut 
parts fit perfectly together. Then tie firmly, and 
the operation is finished. The grafted root 
must now be potted in a small pot, sufficiently 
deep to cover the whole of the point of union. 
Then plunge the pots in a propagating case 
where there is a little bottom heat, but before 
doing this give a good watering to settle the 
soil. As the succulent shoots are very liable to 
damp off if moisture be allowed to condense too 
freely on them, a little air may be given when 
necessary, bnt on no account allow them to flag; 
indeed, if possible, it is better to dispense with 
the air except when the lights are taken off, 
which should be done every morning, in order to 
remove condensed moisture. As soon as a union 
has taken place, which will be perceived by the 
centre bud starting, air may with safety be 
given, and the plants quickly hardened off; 
when necessary they should be shifted into 
larger pots. Early propagation in the case of 
these plants is very desirable; if the cuttings 
are taken from plants ‘grown under glass, the 
rootB Bhould be taken under cover for a few 
days, just to put the sap in motion. After a 
time the scion frequently pushes forth roots of 
its own in addition to those of the stock upon 
which it is grafted. The greenhouse C. indivisa 
also does well grafted in this manner, besides 
which half ripened shoots are not difficult to 
strike. T. 

Grubs in Carnations— Having myself 
lost many valuable Carnations from the attacks 
of a maggot beginning its depredations at the 
tops of the plants, and then eating its way 
down the stems right into the ground, I have 
watched with considerable interest the questions 
and answers which have appeared in these 
columns from correspondents who, like myself, 
have Buffered the loss of highly-prized favour¬ 
ites, for I am one of those who love Pinks and 
Carnations, and consider them second only to 
the Rose itself. I believe that this “ grub ” is 
the wireworm in its first stage. The egg having 
been deposited by the wireworm beetle just in¬ 
side the crown of the plant, amongst the young¬ 
est and tenderest leaves, is in time hatched 
there, and then begins to feed and work its way 
down the plant, thereby converting the stem 
into a hollow tube, leaving nothing inside but 
finely pulverised debris, utterly ruining the 
plants, if they are layers in pots, in cold frames. 
Larger plants in the open ground, although 
severely injured, are not generally killed, but 
throw out side shoots after the main stem has 


been eaten away. This pest cleared off the 
whole of my Sweet Williams last winter, at 
which season it is most active. After the larva 
has eaten down the stems, it goes into the ground, 
where I presume it attains the size and form 
of the full-grown wireworm. The worst of it 
is, the mischief is done before its presence is 
detected. There are, no doubt, some of your 
readers who could give us a full and scientific 
account of this plague.—W. J. W. 

The Lady Fern (Athyrium Filix-focmina). 
—Ihis is one of the most elegant and vigorous 
of British Ferns, perfectly hardy even on the 
exposed rocky mountains of Scotland, while in 
the western isles, in company with Sphagnum, 
Drosera, and small leaved Ivy, it carpets the 
surface of the ground in the most beautiful 
manner imaginable. As a pot plant in the 
window, or planted out in the shady portions of 
the area, in any good soil, this plant grows luxu¬ 
riantly if protected from direct Bnnshine, which 
gives to most Ferns a rusty appearance. If a 
few pieces of sandstone or similar material are 
placed round its roots, so much the better, as 
they retain moisture, and keep the ground 
round the roots in a cool condition. In most 
country lanes this Fern may he had for the 
trouble of collecting it, while any nurseryman 
can supply innumerable varieties of it, some 
dwarf, some with cross-shaped piunas, some 
crested, and others depauperated in the most 
wonderful manner.—F. 

10882.— Forcing Anemone japonica. 

—By placing the plants under glass you will 
certainly bring them into bloom at an earlier 
period, but in any case they would not be very 
early, as this Anemone is naturally a late autumn 
flowering plant. Tlants that bloom naturally in 
spring are those which are commonly forced, and 
not those which do not flower until summer. But 
Anemone japonica is well worthy of good pot 
culture, and is very useful thus treated for green¬ 
house or window decoration.—B yfleet. 

10909.— Christmas Roaes.— It is climatic 
vicissitudes that cause the blooms to come 
small ; it is only now and then in very mild 
winters that they develop in full beauty in the 
open. For this reasOD, many cover them with a 
handlight from November onwards, leaving a 
little air on constantly. Then the blooms come 
large and fine. Even a pane of glass laid on four 
bricks will do; it is not heat, but protection, they 
need.—J, C., Byfleet. 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 
Glasshouses. 

Febns. —Those who have collected spores 
(seeds) should now sow them on peat. Break 
the peat into pieces about the size of Peas, and 
prepare a few well-drained 3-inch pots by 
filling them to within half an inch of the rim 
with peat. Set them on an even surface and 
give them a thorough watering. The spores 
should be carefully sown while ihe surface of 
the soil is damp. The pots should then be set 
in a shady part of a warm house or room. The 
pots should be placed in a pan containing one 
inch of water, which must be replenished as it 
evaporates. The surface of the soil in pots 
must not be watered, as the capillary attraction 
from the water in the pan will be sufficient. 
Each pan, which should contain about a dozen 
pots, should then be covered with a bell glass, 
and kept close until the surface of the soil 
becomes green, when a little ventilation will be 
required. Such kinds as the following are best 
adapted for raising in rooms :—Pteris cretica 
albo-lineata, P. serrulate, P. tremula, P. umbrosa, 
Folystichum mucronatum, and the various kinds 
of Lomaria and Lastrea that thrive in a green¬ 
house temperature. 

Camellias that have bloomed Ehould now be 
placed in a growing atmosphere, and any 
repotting should now be done. The soil best 
adapted for the Camellia is a mixture of fibrous 
peat and loam in equal portions, with a liberal 
quantity of sand and broken crocks. All the 
plants should now be examined, and any of the 
commoner kinds that do not require repotting 
should be top-dressed, but disturbing the sur¬ 
face-roots of choice hard-wooded plants should 
be avoided. Calceolarias, Francoas, and all her¬ 
baceous plants may reeeive liberal shifts. The 
autumn-blooming Heaths should now be 
breaking freely, and if they need larger pots 



548 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


| Feb. 2 , 1884 . 


they should now be repotted. Overcrowding 
should be avoided now that the plants are 
commencing to grow, and during mild weather 
ventilation Bhould be applied freely night and 
day. 

A batch of Pinks from cold frame should now 
be got forward. The best kinds for forcing are 
Lady Blanche, Derby Day. Lord Lyons, Anne 
Boleyn, and Ascot. Moysotis (both white and 
bine), also the different kinds of early Primulas 
and Anemone fulgens, should be forwarded 
gently in heat. Azaleas that are past dowering 
should be placed in a moist atmosphere, and 
kept well syringed so as to induce them to break 
freely. Double Primulas that are past their 
best should be divided for propagation. A 
safer method, however, ia to place a little very 
candy soil about the base of the plants; in this 
they will soon form young roots, and the old 
stools can then be divided without any loss from 
damping off. These Primulas are so useful and 
so beautiful, that they amply repay any labour 
bestowed on them. 

Flower Garden. 

Hoses should be planted during the present 
month, as the season for active growth is near, 
aud the later the planting is deferred the greater 
will be the loss, and growth weakly. Boses 
delight in a rich, deep loam, well broken, and 
with an admixture of manure. After planted 
thus, a top dressing of manure annually will 
suffice to keep them in a vigorous condition for 
several years. They are somewhat impatient of 
being disturbed at the roots, therefore digging 
or forking the beds should be done carefully. 
Dwarf kinds are iu every respect much better 
adapted for beds than standards—in fact, the 
standard form is little likely to induce persons 
to grow Roses at all, on account of its unnatural 
appearance. If a proper Itose garden is imprac¬ 
ticable, a well arranged bed or border entirely 
devoted to their cnlture will prove far more en¬ 
joyable than double the cumber of plants indis¬ 
criminately dotted about the grounds. 

Habdv Plants —Anemones and Ranuncu¬ 
luses may' cow be planted in the beds that were 
manured and deeply dug some time ago. Her¬ 
baceous Phloxes are extremely useful and 
free-Bowering plants, and make very effective 
groups. Irises are again becoming deservedly 
popular, for besides the gay oolours of their 
blossoms which enliven the open borders, they 
are very effective and serviceable in a cut state. 
Other usefnl plants are the Evening Primroses, 
the large yellow flowers of which are very showy. 
Beds wholly of one kind, or edged with a dwarfer 
growing kind, are amongst the simplest of the 
many ways of disposing of the host of really 
good herbaceous plants that one seldom sees 
except in mixed borders, where the strong¬ 
growing too frequently overrun the weaker 
kinds, but which, arranging them according to 
height, would both show to advantage. 

Lawks. —Any operation in connection with 
lawns should be completed forthwith. If suf¬ 
ficient good turf is procurable, that is decidedly 
the quickest and best way, but on a large scale 
sowing with lawn Grass seeds is the best sub¬ 
stitute. If the land has been trenched and 
allowed to subside it should now be well 
raked, and the seed sown evenly over the fine 
surface, raking it in and rolling frequently 
afterwards, in order to get a smooth, even surface. 
If showery weather follow, the seeds will 
quickly germinate, and as soon as the Grass is 
sufficiently high it should be cut with a scythe. 
In places where there are many trees and 
shrubs isolated on the lawns, it is impossible 
to dispense with the scythe, as the mowing 
machine cannot safely be worked round them 
without great risks. Mowing machines needing 
repair should be seen to at once, to as to be 
ready when required. On mild days the lawn 
should be swept so as to remove worm casts, 
and also a heavy roller passed over, as the 
smoother and firmer the surface the better for 
mowing. In some places Daisies, Dandelions, 
Docks, &c., are very troublesome on lawns, and 
the best remedy is to draw them out by the 
root, for although various remedies are said to 
be effectual for their removal, none are so effica¬ 
cious as drawing them out of the soil entire, and 
then sowing some good lawn Grass seed, covering 
it with fine mould and a dressing of soot and 
wood ashes. 

Auriculas and Polyanthuses. — Those 
who have seeds of Auricula should sow them at 

Digitizes by GOOgle 


once, so that good flowering plants may be ob¬ 
tained for next season, whereas, if the sowing is 
deferred, not so many flowering plants will be 
obtained. If the seeds are sown now, it is best 
to use a small shallow pan, well drained, filled 
nearly to the top with soil, and the surface inch 
of soil should be fine and sandy. The seeds 
should be just covered over with fine soil, and a 
square of glass placed over the surface, so as to 
leave a space between the soil and the glass. 
The pans should be plunged in a gentle bottom- 
heat, but there ought to be but little atmospheric 
heat. Seedlings of Polyanthuses, too, are very 
desirable, and the plants make a fine display in 
the open borders. Still, the named varieties, 
when well managed, seldom die off from any 
cause excepting the attacks of red spider or 
green-fly, which so debilitate the plants that 
they succumb to a severe winter. 

Fruit. 

Melons— In order to secure a few extra 
early Melons, some of the strongest plants may 
be selected from the first sowing for special 
treatment in the hottest and in other respects 
best adapted compartment at command. Im¬ 
proved Victory of Bath, Eastnor Castle, Read's 
Scarlet, and Turner’s Gem still occupy the front 
rauk when flavour becomes the test of value; 
moreover, they are good growers, free setters, 
and manure their fruit early. For this kind of 
work the grower must have full command of top 
and bottom heat from pipes, plenty of light, and 
a good supply of sound Oak leaves or tan. The 
beds and pots having been prepared as directed 
in my last, and planted in the compost recom¬ 
mended, train up the trellis, and allow the 
leaders to grow without stopping them until 
they begin to throw out Bide shoots, which will, 
under generous treatment, show fruit at the 
first joint. When four female blossoms on each 
plant can be secured for fertilisation, the 
leaders may be pinched out, and as soon as a pair 
of nicely-balanced Melons can be seen swelling 
away evenly together, everything in the way of 
lateral growth must be kept constantly pinched 
and thinned out to prevent overcrowding, care 
being taken that all the stem leaves are pre¬ 
served, as a means of securing the rapid flow of 
the sap and immmnity from canker at the joints. 
When fairly in growth ply the syringe freely, 
give food iu proportion to their strength, 
and allow the heat to range from 70° to 90° by 
day from Bun and fire-heat combined. 1'lants 
intended for pits and frames should be stopped 
at the third or fourth leaf, and allowed to break 
again before they are removed from the nursing 
frame to the hills. Guard against making the 
hills or ridges large at first, as the soil is liable 
to scald. Slake frequent sowings for succession 
in pits and houses, always bearing in mind that 
plants for training up to and over a trellis must 
be potted on and encouraged to make a vigorous 
vine; while plants for ordinary beds require 
stopping as soon as they get well into rough 
leaf, and that, in either case, sturdy young 
plants are more valuable than older ones that 
have become cramped and pot-bound. 

Habdv fruit.— It is well to be prepared for 
the worst weather, therefore let coverings be in 
readiness for protecting wall trees. Peaches, 
Apricots, and Pears all need protection to ensure 
their safety ; next to glass, movable blinds are 
the best protectors, but where 1 hese cannot be 
had, netting. Yew branches, twiggy Birch sprays, 
bracken, or finely woven straw screens are good 
substitutes. Plums and Cherries are hardier 
than the kinds above named, and bear a few 
degrees of frost without injury ; but even to 
these slight protection should be given. If the 
state of the soil admits, all planting should be 
completed, as also should every other operation 
that necessitates the disturbance of the roots, so 
that any newly formed roots may become 
established in the fresh soil before there is any 
risk of their being checked by drought. With 
the exception of Figs, all other fruit trees may 
now be pruned, and those against walls, before 
they sue retrained, should be well syringed with 
soapsuds, the walls also, as a preventive against 
green and black fly. This application will not 
kill the scale, and so for this pest the trees 
require to be painted over with a strong solution 
of soft soap and sulphur, or with Gishurst at the 
rate of six ounces to each gallon of water. As 
soon as all bush fruits are pruned, it iB a good 
plan to splash them all over with a mixture of 
lime and soot, which is distasteful to small 


birds, which do much injury at this season ; and 
at the same time it cleanses the trees of Moss 
and Lichen. Point over all the ground amongst 
bush fruits, and then apply surface mulching of 
manure, but it should never be dug in. 

Kitchen Garden. 

The remains of spent crops, such as Cabbages 
or Brussels Sprouts, should be cleared off, and 
preparations made for other crops. Make new 
plantations of Horseradish, Jerusalem Arti¬ 
chokes, Rhubarb, Garlic, and Shallots. Tansy, 
Tarragon, and Eome other herbs should have 
their crowns divided, and fresh plantations 
made, if necessary, with the divisions. Some 
Chives for early use may likewise be protected; 
also some Parsnips and Jerusalem Artichokes; 
in fact, the two latter should be lifted together, 
the first to be stored and the room given to 
o’her crops, the last to be re-planted. Turn 
manure heaps at the same time, saving the 
roughest litter for protecting vegetables and 
for covering frames. If any of the winter 
Cucumber plants are to be kept in bearing 
through the summer, the surface roots should be 
encouraged to make their way over the tops of 
the pots into good friable, turfy loam—somewhat 
heavier than that used through the winter— 
placed on tiles to prevent the roots from striking 
directly into the bed of leaves. Succession com¬ 
partments now in full bearing will require gene¬ 
rous food, constant attention to stopping, and 
the entire removal of useless spray, from 
which clean, handsome fruit cannot be expected. 
If not already done, turn out the first set of 
spring seedlings before they become pot-bound, 
and train up sticks to the trellis without stop¬ 
ping. Pinch the points out of others intended 
for pits and frames, keep them near the glass, 
and give another shift into larger pots, in pre¬ 
ference to planting out, before the manure beds 
are quite ready lor them. Keep sowing a few 
seeds to make up losses, as well as for succession, 
as it is always better to have plants to throw 
away than to feel the want of them. CoUect 
Oak, Beech, or Spanish Chestnut leaves for 
future use. Just now they are in fine condition 
for harvesting, and if protected from wet they 
will keep sound until next autumn. 


TRBB8 AND SHRUBS. 


TREES ANDSHBUBS FORTOWN GARDENS. 
HAVING lately been desired to prepare a list of 
trees and wall shrubs suitable for a town garden, 
it has occurred to me to submit it to the readers 
of Gardening, some of whom may throw further 
light on the matter, and thus benefit myself and 
others. The garden, or rather small park, in 
question is in a mild locality near the sea. Al¬ 
though quite a variety of things is recommended 
in this list, the most reliance will be placed on 
Hollies, Acnbas, Ivies, and Yuccas, in bold beds 
and masses Low Ivy edgings will also 
be employed near the grass verges with advan 
tage. What is especially desired is the use of 
perfectly liardy free growing plants, which, when 
once well planted, will give but little further 
trouble as to keeping, and increase in effect year 
by year. To this end good bold beds and groups 
or masses of Yuccas, Ivies, Hollies, Aucubas, Ac, 
are recommended rather than mixed beds or 
borders of shrubs of the usual kind, in which all 
things do not grow well alike, and the stronger 
eventually overcome the weaker. It is proposed 
to cover existing dead tree trunks each willi 
some one distinct kind of green or golden Ivy. 
Bare walls are likewise to be covered with Ivies 
of various kinds—Cotoneasters, golden winter 
Jasmines, and Ampelopsis Veitchi, the more 
sunny and sheltered nooks being reserved for a 
Magnolia or two. Wistaria, Aristolochia Sipho, 
Clematis, Almonds, Cydonia japonica, Colletias, 
common Passion Flower, and other wall shrubs 
and plants. It is particularly recommended that 
the plants be selected from some bleak, cold, 
northern nursery, as experience proves that those 
grown in warm sheltered country places in the 
best of soil and climate rarely grow well, even if 
they exist, when brought into town gardens; 
reared in adverse circumstances, they acquire s 
robust constitntion, which enables them to holt 
their own amid town smoke and dust. 

In shrub culture one must ever bear i* 
mind that by their permanently occupying It* 
same spot for years the principle of crop rotation 
is suspended, so that manure is often needfb. 
especially when the plant has to contend wiffi 



kb. 2 , 1884 .] 


GARDENING illustrated 


smoke and dost. A good top-dressing of well- 
rotted manure and bnrnt rubbish—better still 
leaf-mould— is beneficial applied in autumn. 
This forms a substitute for Nature’s own leaf¬ 
dressing in their native woods. During hot 
summer weather also all newly planted shrubs 
and trees are the better for a mulching of rotten 
manure or leaf-soil over their roots. This serves 
a doable purpose; the rains wash down its 
manurial elements, and it mechanically acts as 
a wet blanket, thus preventing the evaporation 
of earth moisture. 

Lime dressings (not magnesian) are bene¬ 
ficial to all newly dug ground, that in unplanted, 
especially in towns. It may be crushed and ap¬ 
plied to bare ground fresh from the kiln and at 
onoe dug in. Apart from its direct manurial 
value it also aids in the liberation of organic 
matter, which lies crude and useless in old plots 
of uncultivated soil. Old mortar and lime rub¬ 
bish mixed with calcined rubbish of all kinds 
and a small proportion of agricultural salt form 
a valuable manure, and easily prepared. A 
broadcast sprinkling of freshly burnt lime, ap¬ 
plied at night or on wet eveniDgs is death to all 
slugs on which it falls. On plots occupied by 
shrubs or flowers the plan is to slake the lime, 
applying it when cool after pulverisation. 

Shrubs for walls.— Ivy in variety.—There 
are about twenty good distinct varieties of Ivy 
of the green-leaved type invaluable for bare 
walls in town gardens. Hedera algeriensis, H. 
palmata, H. cordata, H. pedata, H. canariensis, 
H. Helix aurea (golden Ivy), n. digitata, H. 
Hsegneriana, H. dentata, H. nepalensis. The 
common Irish Ivy (H. canariensis) makes very 
nice low edgings on Grass near walks, and is 
often so used with good effect in the public 
gardens of Paris. After the common golden 
few variegated kinds are effective in towns. 
Magnolia grandiflora (Exmouth variety) is in 
sheltered places a node wail shrub, even if so 
be that it does not bloom. The Exmouth 
variety, known by the under surface of its 
leaves being densely covered with red tomeutum, 
i3 the best. Wistaria sinensis.—Deciduous, but 
still a noble wall shrub effective from April until 
November. Ampelopsis Veitchi (Japan Creeper). 
—Deciduous ; during summer and autumn one 
of the neatest and most effective of wall plants. 

A great advantage it possesses over the Virginian 
Creeper is that it requires no nailing, clinging 
lightly and flatly to the wall surface by its own 
tendrils. Good for bare walls and sunny gables. 
A. hederacea (Virginian Creeper) is good for 
walls in summer and autumn, when it becomes 
highly coloured. Jasminum nudiflorum (golden 
Japan or Winter ’Jasmine), on walls near Ivies, 
yr near the red-benied Cotoneaster Simonsi, 
produces its golden flowers through the winter 
months, one of the best and brightest of all 
winter bloomiDg shrubs, and it does well in 
towns if well planted in good rich soil. Cydonia 
japonica (Japan Quince) on asunnywall bears a 
profusion of scarlet flowers daring winter and 
spriDg. It is nearly evergreen. Colletia cruciata 
and C. ferox are singular hardy wall shrubs 
worth trial. Pyracantha japonica (Fire Thorn). 
—This species and also its variety, P. crenulata, 
from the Himalayas, are red-berried evergreen 
shrubs, well suited for bare walls in town 
gardens. Escallonia macrantha.—Bright and 
cheerful in winter, dark glossy leaves, and 
clusters of red flowers. Although perfectly 1 
hardy in exposed places near the sea, it well ; 
deserves wall shelter in town. Aristolochia 
Sipho.—Large cordate leaves, effective foliage ' 
on a wall. Cotoneaster microphylla is a good 1 
wall shrub, evergreen, with white flowers 1 
and red berries. Clematis Jackmanni (purple ' 
ClematU) —For sunny walls a good hardy free- j 
blooming variety. Poultry netting of galvanised 
wire nailed to the wall affords a ready base on 1 
which to train and tie its growing shoots. C. 
montana is a white flowered species, blooming 
in spring. 

Evergreen shrubs.— Hollies, green, gold, 
and silver variegated.—Of all town shrubs those 
are the hardiest and best, and by no means slow 
growing if manured with rotten leaf earth every 
year, as they soon exhaust the ground near their 
boles. Aucuba japonica, one of the most cheer¬ 
ful of afl town shrubs in winter. Apart from 1 
the glossy foliage, if male plants be planted | 
here and there among the common female kinds, 1 
their red berries are an additional attraction. 
Euonymns japonicus, E. j^wif. aureus, E. j lati- 
folins.—Ail fresh glos=y-lfcvve<^B^rnls^of dense 


habit. Of town shrubs they are of the best of Hawthorn he should get a supply of ripe 
Oarryaelliptica, a grey-green shrub bearing cat- seeds, or haws, in the autumn, and sow them at 
kins during the winter months, well worth trial once in beds 4 feet wide, overing the seed 
in a sheltered position, or even the protection of about one inch deep, and if Eown thinly thry 
a wall. Portugal Laurel, gloomy leafage. Com- may remain until fit for plaitiDg out peima- 
mon Holly, far more bright and effective. Quer- nently, which may be after two years’ growth • 
cur Ilex (Evergreen Oak).—Good for shelter Privet is best struck from cuttings. Strong 
belts or as isolated specimens. Lanrnstinus.— well ripened shoots of the preceding season’ 
The best form is a shining-leaved variety, with growth should be cut into lengths of abont on fc 
pure white flowers. 30° of frost kills this. Ber- foot and planted in rows, in a partially shaded 
beris fasciccilaris hybrida. Good llerberis for position, where they will make nice little bushes 
walls in sheltered positions. Yuccas are most by the autumn, when they should be lifted and 
distinct and effective in leafage and blossom, and replanted at wider intervals if not required for 
plants make handsome clumps on the turf in forming hedges, for as they form abundance of 
sheltered positions, or as isolated specimens near fibrous roots they may besafely removed atalmost 
angles or corners of grass plots. Perhaps they any time of the year, and when grown into large 
show best, however, massed together in large bushes, a good hedge or screen m iy be very 
beds or groups in sheltered positions on grass, quickly formed if well established plants are 
Y. gloriosa and Y’. reenrva are both noble large kept in stock.—J. G., Hantt. 

growing kinds. Y. flaccida is a dwarf, but ex--Thorns are not propagated from cut- 

tremely free bloomiDg species. Rhododendrons, tings: they do not strike readily, and they are 
planted in peat and leaf-mould, are effective, 8 o easily obtained from seeds, which should be 
but they often require renewal in town gardens, gathered now, storing them in sand until next 
Deciduous shrubs, Ac.—Clematis Vitalba March twelvemonths, and then bow them in 
(the common Travellers Joy) may well be used the open ground. The best way is to bury them 
for draping tree trunks, fences, railings, Ac., and in a flower-pot until that time, covering the top 
is a rampant grower. Pyrus floribunda, a free- to keep out vermin and heavy rainfall. Privet 
flowering species, bearing rosy clusters of Apple strikes readily, taking shoots of last season's 
blossoms in Bpring. Cratmgus Oxyacantha var. wood with four joints, and inserting them in 
Paul's Crimson (double red Thom)..—Both this frames in a north border, but this, too, is easily 
and the common Hawthorn flower well in towns, raised from seed, sowing in March in the open 
Almond.—The white, blush, pink, and rosy air.—J.C. B. 
varieties of the common Almond are perhaps ■ 


gu. 


the best and most satisfactory of all early A 'RT U1Q 

blooming town trees. Cherry—The double- 

blossomed Cherry is also well worth a place. H0W T0 GROW RADISHES. 

Lilac (Jiyrmga vulgaris).—A showy flowering , , . . , 

bush in spring. Its bare and dark-coloured An all-tbe-year-round supply of tender, sweet, 
wintry aspect is a drawback. Laburnum (Cytisns well-grown Radishes may be produced with 
Laburnum) —The Scotch variety is the best and ?> ore ease aDd less attention than arc necessary 
flowers well in open town spaces. Beech.—The for many crops. Variety in the way of sorts has 
purple or copper-leaved varieties may well be 

planted, their yonng leaves contrasting well ,-s.. 

with the Laburnum when it, is in bloom, A v ; 

Forsythia suspensa and F. viiidissima—Yellow - ■ jjSlft ^ ■ S’ 

flowered wall shrubs, deciduous. Magnolia con- 

spicua and M. Lennfi.—Two showy species, apt vJU-oCl ■' 

to Buffer from late spring frosts, but very effec- J 

tive in mild seasons, and worth the shelter of a jwvc! V 

wall. Sambucus niger var. aureus (golden- 

leaved Elder.—Quick growing golden-leaved 

bush, producing bright effects during summer. 

Contrasts well with dark Hollies. Buddleai , Kjfc. 

globosa.—A distinct and effective deciduous M B ta".' 

flowering shrub, sometimes called the Orange mi''WL-W: ? 

Bush, from its golden ball-like flower-heads. g it BE \ 

Willow.—Some kinds do well, especially the 

silver-leaved; the golden shoots also of the / If- jg 

golden Willow are most effective in winter ran- < /f i W r\ 

shine, and there is a variety with crimson $ '! 1 V % 

tinted shoots which is far more striking than •/ £ ’ 1 I ■ \ 

the common Dogwood as a plant for winter ■ / e ; i V 

colour effect. Salisburia adiantifolia (Gingko (/ f £ { i B i 

or Maiden-hair Tree); either as a standard i / l j \ - \ 

tree on the turf or on a wall, this plant is j! j f / ; V j I 

most effectire and distinct from anything else, l j • \ 

leaves like those of a gigantic Maiden-hair Fem. \ j j IB I \ i 

A good specimen has existed for many years in j / , j 

the Chelsea Botanic Gardens.—W. ( / i 1) | I j N. 

Pyracantha not fruiting. — I have a ; 

Pyracantha which has been planted four years ' 

against a north-west wall. It has never berried. 

A fair quantity of flowers appear in the season, . „__ „ , 

bat they always “ go off into dust and drop. 

Can any reader say what is the reason, and if 

anything can be done to secure a crop of the much to do with a constant supply, some 
rich and beanlifnl Bcarlet berries, for which this kinda moat Stable for spring, others 

climber is so famed ? In reference to a para- for summer, and others again for winter. It 
graph in last weeks Gardening on Cotoneaster WO uld be no heavy or unattainable undertaking 
Simonsi, I may remark that the writer, *‘J. C C.,' sen( j Radishes to the table every day in the 
did scant justice to this beautiful shrub. With y ear f rom three sorts, but as seed is cheap and 
me it is quite a unique and attractive feature var i e ty interesting, a few more will be alluded 
in my winter garden, being laden with beautifal following remarks. Early in spring 

berries during the miserably dull months of our lon „ growing Radishes become ready for use 
English winter, and only losing its berries when SOODer than Turnip-rooted ones, but for sumtr e 
the bnght and lengthening days of late spring and winter the Turnip radishes are the best, 
fade away into summer; moreover, it is an The Early Long Frame Radish is an excellent 
accommodating shrub, not particular as to soil, one f or a crop, and no doubt many of the 
may be kept symmetrical by pruning, is an readers of Gardening will have proved this in 
" evergreen ’ nine months out of the twelve, and the cgiBe of Wood’s Early, one of the best frame 
a f,k ar( ty as a Conifer. When planting a Radishes in cultivation. The French breakfast 
shrubbery plot or border, do not forget the k j Dd j 8 olive-shaped, and a variety of great 
writers encomium of Cotoneaster Simon&i,— merit; in fact, the best spring and summer 
W. J. S., Wellingborough. Radish which we possess, and should be grown 


Long Frame Radish. 


to do with a constant supply, some 


W. J. S., Wellingborough. 


10883. — Propagating Thorns and by everybody_Thered and.whiteTurnip kinds 
Privet.—If “ Rustic ” wants to get up a stock a*© useful, and some of the newer varieties, 


550 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Feb. 2 , 1884 


which are of many forms and ooloure, are inter¬ 
esting additions which may probably in time be¬ 
come standard varieties. The Long White 
Naples is hardy, bat in flavonr it is not so good as 
some others. The Black Spanish is, as its name 
indicates, black in colour externally, but pore 
white within, and very sharp and hot in flavour. 
This is so much the case, that few would grow it 
a second time. I wonld, in short, avoid it alto¬ 
gether and grow the China ltose for winter 
use. This variety is undoubtedly the best of 
all winter Radishes ; it bulbs freely late in the 
autumn, is of a beautiful rose colour, will with¬ 
stand the most severe weather, and will remain 
in good condition from November until March 
or April. To secure a constant supply of spring 
and summer Radishes seed must be sown fre¬ 
quently, but not so in winter, as one good patch 
of this will meet all requirements. The Cali¬ 
fornian Mammoth now being introduced for 
winter use is too large and coarse to be generally 
acceptable. 

Cultivation.— There is no advantage in 
securing great quantities of large-sized roots. A 
small and constant supply of crisp, delicately 
flavoured bulbs should be the only aim. The 
earliest will be had from a hotbed or from under 
some glass protection. It is seldom we grow a 
special frameful of Radishes, but secure all we 
want from frames planted with other crops. In 
Jannary and February we are frequently making 
up beds of manure and leaves for forcing 
l'otatoes, Carrots, &c., and amongst these are 
sown a few Radishes. When the Potatoes, for 
example, are planted in rows 15 inches apart, a 
row of Radishes may be sown between, and they 
will be ready for use and cleared off before the 
Potato crop in any way interferes with them. In 
Carrot frames the same thing may be done, and 
sometimes a Radish seed is dropped in here and 
there amongst the Carrots, as they will push up 
and be cleared off before the Carrots require 
much top room. Thus young spring Radishes 
are obtained without any special outlay or extra 
attention ; many, however, who try to grow 
early Radishes in this way make mistakes. One 
of these is sowing the seed too thickly. Under 
such circumstances, when the plants come up 
they are a mat at top and bottom, and when 
this is the case useful roots are never formed. 
Thinning out some of the plants as soon as they 
can be handled is one way of avoiding this, but 
it is a wasteful way ; the better plan is always 
to sow thinly. One Beed every 6 inches or so 
will give a much finer crop and better results 
altogether than close sowing. Many doubtless 
wonder why their Radishes do not all bulb, but 
allowing them to grow too close together is as a 
rule the cause of this. Many are most particu¬ 
lar, too, in getting their seeds in and the crop 
brought to maturity, but after the usable part 
of it has been gathered neglect follows, and 
where Radishes have been raised in a Potato or 
Carrot frame it is no uncommon thing to see 
worthless Radish tops overshadowing every¬ 
thing by the time the other crops should have 
been at their best. Cultivators should always 
be particular in clearing out all the Radishes 
as soon as they become too old for use, and any 
which do not bulb early may be thrown away 
altogether. 

Early Radishes. —In making up a special 
bed for early Rrdishes, a very shallow bed of 
fermenting material is sufficient; about 1 foot 
in depth is enough, and 6 inches of soil should 
be put on the top of this. They bulb fastest at 
this time of I he year in a moderately rich sandy 
mixture. The seed Bhonld be sown broadcast, 
very thin, and it should not be covered more 
than half an inch deep. The earliest seed may 
be sown in frames in January and February, 
but in the latter month and throughout March 
seed may also be sown along the base of a south 
wall or in any sheltered snnny spot. Here the 
rule as to thin sowing should also be observed; 
in fact, this must be kept in mind throughout. 
When the little plants appear at first in the 
colder months of spring a Blight protection will 
favour their free growth. A few branches or 
some similar covering is all that is needed. 

Summer Radishes. —From April onwards 
throughout the summer select spots need not be 
chosen for Radishes, as they will do almost any¬ 
where, their only requirements being a firm, 
rich, cool soil. Without this, especially in sum¬ 
mer, the roots will become hot and stringy 
before they are well -developed, and the period 

Digitized by CiOOglC 


of their usefulness will be very short. In 
general culture some may prefer having the seed 
in rows; others may sow broadcast, and good 
Radishes may be had in both ways. At no time 
should the seed be put more than half an inch 
below the surface, and the soil should always be 
trodden firmly over it, as this induces the plants 
to bulb quicker and better than when in loose 
material. Dates of sowing and quantities to 
put in at each time cannot be given to suit all; 
on the contrary, every cultivator must be guided 
by his own requirements in this respect. 

Winter Radishes. —We are never without 
Radishes; our rule is to sow a small quantity 
of seed every three weeks from the middle of 
January until the beginning of September, when 
we stop all sowings and dealings with the sum¬ 
mer varieties, and devote one good large piece 
of ground to the China Rose for winter. This 
sowing is made on a south border which may 
have been previously cleared of Potatoes or 
some other crop. The seed is put in in rows 
15 inches apart, in order that plenty of air and 
light may be admitted to them in winter, and 
if the young plants come up too close they are 
thinned out to (i inches apart. Under this treat¬ 
ment a uniform crop of useful bulbs is the re¬ 
sult. We generally gather some of these by 
the end of October, when they are no larger 
than filberts, but at present they are as large 
as pigeons' eggs, very crisp and well flavoured. 

J. M. 


10896.— Cucumber Culture.— If the bed 
is not very wide, say between 1 ft. and 5 ft, a 
flow and return 3-in. pipe would be sufficient for 
bottom heat. If the bed is about 3ft., a return 
pipe would give enough heat for the bottom of 
the bed. No fermenting material will be re¬ 
quired. The best compost is good turfy loam, to 
which has been added some leaf-mould and 
rotten stable manure. You ought to have suffi¬ 
cient piping to keep the temperature of the house 
up to 60° or 65°.—J. D. E. 

Potato seta. —Cutting out the most promi¬ 
nent eyes from the crown of potato sets is by 
many practised with the idea of getting larger 
tubers for their crop—but not so many of them 
—this may do for round varieties that send up 
too many Bhoots, but for any of the kidney 
kinds, and especially early ashleafs and similar 
kinds, I like to preserve the first shoots intact, as 
they do not pash out successive crops of shoots, 
like the round kinds do.— J. G. 

10918. -Hotbed for Cucumbers.—Stable manure 
mixed with leaves make a good, tl not the best, hotbed. 
Cow manure Is not auitable. The bed may be made 
at once. — J. D. K 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


CULTURE OF THE FUCHSIA. 

Few plants are easier to cultivate than the 
Fuchsia, and they make charming plants either 
for outdoor or greenhouse cultivation. As the 
month of February is the time to prepare the 
plants for summer blooming, to assist amateurs 
I give the following cultural directions :— 

Striking cuttings.— Cuttings should be 
taken off when about 2 inches long and inserted 
around the sides of pots (well drained) in sandy 
soil; they should then be placed in a gentle hot¬ 
bed, or warm greenhouse, and covered with a 
bell-glass to keep them moist, care being taken 
to keep them shaded from the snn. Or several 
cuttings may be inserted in a box, and covered 
with a square of glass. When rooted they are 
ready for 

Potting off Bingly into 3-inch pots. Keep 
them close and Bhaded for a few days. As soon 
as the plants are about 4 inches high, they 
should be stopped, i. r.’ , the top should be pinched 
off. This will cause the formation of side shoots. 
Stakes should now be put to the plants, and the 
shape of the plant should be decided upon. If 
it is desired that they should be grown as pyra¬ 
mids (which is the best form in which to grow’ 
them), the leading shoot should be trained 
upright, and when it has grown about 8 inches, 
it should be stopped again. From this stopping 
another shoot should be trained upright, and all 
the side shoots should be stopped at every 
4 inches to 6 inches. Care must be taken to 
repot whenever the roots reach the sides of the 
pots, for as soon as they become pot-bound they 
begin to show bloom, and they should be in their 
blooming pots before they show bloom. Another 


good form to grow them is as a standard. To 
grow them thus they should, after receiving 
their first potting, be placed in a warm house 
and grown on without any stopping until they 
get to the required height. They should then 
be stopped, which will cause them to throw out 
shoots, and a few of the uppermost shootsshould 
be left j all others must be pinched off. These 
shoots should in their turn be pinched when 
they have made about 4 inches growth, and 
trained regularly until the proper Bhape is 
attained. 

Soil. —The soil for potting should consist of 
equal parts good fibrous loam and decayed 
manure, or leaf soil, with plenty of silver sand, 
care being taken to well drain the pots. Atten¬ 
tion should at all times be paid to shading from 
bright sun, and the plants should be syringed 
overhead when the house is closed to cam e a 
moist temperature (in which the plants thrive 
best), and also to keep the plants from getting 
infested with red sdider, which sometimes ap¬ 
pear if the plants are kept in too dry an atmos¬ 
phere. When the pots are filled with roots and 
showing their flower buds, they should receive 
weak liquid manure about twice a week. 

Insects.—C are should be taken to look care¬ 
fully after insects, and as soon as a plant is at¬ 
tacked it should be lightly dusted with Tcbacco- 
powder, and the insects will soon disappear. 

Treatment after flowering. — After 
flowering, stand in the sun ont of doors and 
gradually withhold water. They can then be 
put away during the winter in some place safe 
from frost, and about February be placed in a 
warm temperature. As soon as they begin to 
break, remove a few inches of the soil, and top 
dress with some fresh, and if a little artificial 
manure is added, it will greatly assist the plants 
in the formation of shoots. I may here add that 
I have found Smyth’s blood and bone manure 
an excellent manure for Fuchsias, and always 
top dress with it myself, as above directed. 
About one teaspoonful should be used to a plant 
in a -H inch pot, well stirred in, and then a good 
watering shonld be given. It can be procured 
of Mr. Smyth, 21, Goldsmith 8lreet, Drury 
Lane, who advertises in this paper. 

llollorray, London. W. E. Boyce. 


Plants damping off—A mild winter 
often causes greater destruction amongst half- 
hardy plants in cold pits or houses than a frosty 
winter. Frost may be kept out by warm cover¬ 
ings. Straw in any form is an excellent pro¬ 
tector when kept dry. Straw mats, or hurdles 
lined with straw, or light wooden frames covered 
with it, are some of the forms in which it may 
be cheaply and effectively employed. But damp 
comes from no one knows exactly where, and iB 
difficult to guard against. It rises up out of the 
ground; it comes in through the walls and 
cracks in the glass if there are any. It makes 
the plants look delightfully, almost pretema- 
turally, green at first,Then little brown spots ap¬ 
pear round the edges of the leaves, old wonnds 
decay and become gangrenous and mildewy, the 
bottom leaves fall, and when this stage is 
reached, if something is not done, and that 
qnickly, the whole collection becomes a mass of 
rottenness. Wood ashes in a dry dusty state 
are good to drop in among plants suffering from 
damp in cold pits, so also is dry dusty peat; 
and if a dry day comes, lift the plants out, 
pick them carefully over, put an inch of dry 
ashes in the bottom of the pit, and set the pot 
on this dry bed. This will do more to banish 
damp and restore health than anything else that 
can be done. Ventilation may do much, but in 
a mild, wet winter something besides careful 
ventilation is needed to keep plants from damp¬ 
ing off which are dog up from the border, or 
even soft cuttings struck in August. Then, 
again, most people, especially if at all enthusi¬ 
astic about flowers, are apt to aim at too much. 
Planting too many cuttings in a pot and placing 
the pots too close together is one of the causes 
of damping off; it prevents all circulation of 
air, and as a consequence in such places the 
damp settles and works its will.—H. 

Narcissus dublus, when forced, is, I find, 
a very early flowering variety, coming into bloom 
early in January, when flowers are as a rule in 
much request. It is a clear white variety, and 
very sweetly scented. Five bulbs in a 6-inch or 
7-inch pot make a fine mass, as each bulb sendi 
up two or three good spikes of bloom.. If potted 


Feb. 2 , 1884 .] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


551 



in October, and plunged in asliee out of doors, 
they will push up strongly by the middle of 
November, and if removed to an intermediate 
house they will be in fall flower by the first 
week in January.—J. G., Hants. 


LACHENALIAS. 

The annexed woodcut represents an unusually 
fine Lachenali called L. pendula. It is the 
best of the known Lachenalias, though some 
of the varieties of L. tricolor are not far 
behind it either in richness of colour 
or size of bloom. The late Mr. Nelson 
produced what is really a handsome 
and quite distinct addition to culti¬ 
vated kinds, viz., L. Nelsoni, a seed¬ 
ling from L. aurea and L. luteola, both 
of which are varieties of L. tricolor, 
as is also what is known in gardens as 
L. quadricolor. For garden purposes, 
however, they are all sufficiently dis¬ 
tinct to warrant ns in retaining the 
old names, names, too, which are 
specially serviceable in distinguish¬ 
ing the one from the other, as they 
are descriptive of the colours of each 
kind. L. pallida and some of its va¬ 
rieties, and L. orchioides, a prettily 
marked species, are others of the 
genus deserving of cultivation. Like a 
good many bulbous plants from the 
Cape, Lachenalias are winter flower¬ 
ing. They are so easily grown and 
flowered, and require so little fire 
heat, that no one possessing a cool 
greenhouse or even a frame need 
hesitate to add a few of them to 
their collection. Grown in pots, they 
look well in the front row on a stage 
or on a shelf, while planted in sus¬ 
pended wire baskets they make effec¬ 
tive objects when in flower for hanging 
in conservatories. As to treatment, 
we pot daring September and Octo¬ 
ber six bulbs in a 6-inch pot, in soil 
consisting of two parts loam, one 
part well decomposed manure (that 
from an old hotbed answers well), one 
part sand, and a dash of dry wood 
ashes. This compost should be nsed 
in a fairly dry condition ; the bulbs 
should be placed about inches below 
the surface on a little layer of per¬ 
fectly dry sand ; they may then be 
left in the potting shed or any con¬ 
venient place without water for about 
three weeks; by that time root action 
will have commenced, after which 
gradual watering should begin. A good 
plan is to examine a pot or two pre¬ 
vious to using water in order to see 
if rooting has taken place. After that 
an abundance of light and air is the 
most important requisite ; when the 
flower-spike can be first seen nestling 
down amid the foliage, an occasional 
watering with weak liquid manure 
will be beneficial. After flowering 
let them still enjoy full sunlight, 
and as the foliage turns yellow 
gradually withhold water; thus by the 
time the bulbs are ripe the soil will 
be dust dry. They should then be 
turned out of their pots and placed 
in a dry cupboard or drawer, there 
to be left until the potting season 
comes round again. 


prevented from flowering in a small state under 
the best conditions. Some people pinch the 
first flowers off in order to give the plants a 
better chance to grow to a large size, but I do 
not think this is desirable.—J. D. E. 

- These will not prosper nor fill their pots 

with roots in a cold frame at this time of the 
year, even ip the south of England. To do eo 
they require artificial heat, namely, a tempera¬ 
ture of 45° by night, and from 60° to 65° by 
day. We have had a tine show of Primulas in 
bloom in an unheated conservatory all the sea¬ 


1 0894 — Savin g Primula seeds. 

—The flowers require “ Betting," or 
very few yield seeds. On fine morn¬ 
ings in March, take a camel-hair brush, and, 
moistening the point with the lip, take the pollen 
from the anthers and smother the stigma with 
it. On a shelf near the glass is a good posi¬ 
tion, and admit plenty of air on mild days. 
There they may remain until the seed is ripe, 
giving plenty of water, but no liqnid manure, 
and never wetting the foliage, as this causes them 
to run to leaf.— J. CORNHILL. 

10890.— Primulas.— Probably the potting 
soil you use for your Primulas is too close. They 
have a tendency to stop growing and flower 
prematurely if the loam is too heavy. Use a 
1 iberal proportion of good leaf-mould and sand 
iu the compost. Chinese Primulas cannot be 

Digitized by 


Flower spike of Lachenalla pendula. 


in 6-inch pots you must put them into 7-inclr 
pots; when these are well filled with roots, 
repot again, using pots two inches or so wider. 
Even if the plants would do as well put into 
such large pots as you propose, it would be 
undesirable to do so.—D. E. 

- It is not strangle that you should regard 

as somewhat paradoxical the advice so often 
given to avoid overpotting, and to plant out in 
borders under glass. It would naturally appear 
that there could be but little difference 
between planting out and shifting into a large 
pot, and that the needs of plants 
would be about equally met by both 
methods. And so they are, only that 
a body of soil contained in a close 
receptacle is very much more liable 
to become sour than the optn soil, 
the drainage is not so free, and 
the conditions are altogether of a 
more artificial nature. Therefore it 
is always betler when practicable 
to give Bmall shifts, as the roots 
can then quickly occupy and utilise 
the new before it can come into an 
unfit condition for them. The only 
important exceptions to this rule 
are climbers, which cannot well be 
moved when in position, and aB 
they are geneially strong-rooted 
and of rapid growth, they are not 
so likely to suffer from over- 
potting. The great point is to give 
good drainage, and to be very care¬ 
ful in watering for the first year or 
so until the roots reach the sides of 
the pot or tub.—J. C., Byfleet. 


son, but we saved the seed in May, and the 
plants were in their blooming pots before the 
summer weather was passed. Moreover, we are 
in the south of England, where the climate is 
much milder than in the county of Durham.— 
L. C. K. 

10889.— Pots v. planting out.— A plant 
growing in a 5-incli pot may be planted out in a 
prepared border with advantage. Planting the 
same out in very large pots would not be equiva¬ 
lent to planting it out. The soil in the pots 
would become sour before it became permeated 
by the roots; this does not happen with the bor¬ 
ders, Plumbago capensis, Camellias, and 
Lapagerias do well in pots, but if they are now 


A LASTING HOTBED 
The following description of a hot¬ 
bed refers to the plan which we 
adopt in order to secure a crop of 
early Cucumbers, and as it has been 
in use here for many years I have no 
hesitation in recommending it. I 
Bhould, however, state at the outset 
that it iB not adapted for gardens 
where fermenting materials ate 
limited. We nse a three-light frame 
1 2 feet long and 6 feet wide and of 
the ordinary depth. As a founda¬ 
tion for this frame a pit is dug out 
2 feet deep and 2 feet larger in 
every way than the frame. A drain 
is connected with the pit to carry 
away any water that may accumu¬ 
late there, for it is indispensable 
t hat the materials forming the bottom 
of the hotbed should be kept free 
from any excess of moisture. Brick 
piers are provided in the pit to sup¬ 
port the frame; for a three-light 
frame four piers back and front are 
necessary ; the piers are 1 foot 
square and about 6 inches higher 
than the surrounding level. A piece 
of plank projecting 6 inches inside 
the frame and of the same length as 
the frame is then placed on each 
line of piers. On these planks the 
frame rests, and when put in position 
there it remains ; there is no sinkirg, 
nor is it placed, like the ordinary hot¬ 
bed, high np in the air where the wind 
has so much power as to considerably 
reduce the inside temperature when 
most wanted. When once such a pit 
is formed and the piers 1 uiititwill last 
for many years without icqniring any 
attention ; and as I have had to grow 
early Cncumbera under all sorts of 
conditions, I must Bay that by this plan earlier 
crops are secured, and the work is accomplished 
with less trouble. 

Preparing the fermenting materials.— 
We nse fresh manure from the stables, prepared 
in the ordinary way by placing it in a heap and 
taming it over once a week until it gets 
thoroughly heated, when it is fit for nse. Before 
the frame is put on the pit is filled np to the top 
of the piers with the hot manure; the planks are 
then placed on the piers, as has already been 
stated, and the frame is pnt in its place. To 
support the soil in which the plants are grown, 
boards must be provided to fit the inside of the 
frame; these rest on the projecting sides of the 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 




552 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Feu. 2, 1884. 


planks. Our boards are 7 inches wide and 
2 inches thick, and we find that good Larch 
boards will last for a period of ten or twelve 
years. Thus it will be seen that after the 
fermenting materials sink away from under the 
boards, which they do long before the season is 
over, the bed of soil remains intact, and suffers 
nothing because of the outside linings, which 
are above the level of the surrounding ground. 
The construction of the bed may now be said to 
be complete, and all that is wanted is to keep 
up a regular temperature inside. 

Linings.— Supposing operations for the pro¬ 
duction of early Cucumbers or Melons are com¬ 
menced at the beginning of the new year, the 
heat supplied by the manure in the pit will suf¬ 
fice with just a thin lining outside to keep np the 
temperature for three or four weeks, but as soon 
as the heat declines in the frame the linings must 
be attended to, the thickness applied depending 
upon the heat required. We make our linings 
4 feet wide all round the frame ; we do not like 
thin linings through which every puff of wind can 
blow. The manure for the linings does not require 
much preparation. If very long and dry, as 
brought from the stables, we place it in a heap 
and turn it over once. We never turn the old 
linings, but simply add to them as the heatin’the 
fiame declines, and by commencing early in Jan¬ 
uary, and by putting out small plants raised from 
seeds sown and placed in the stove a month 
before that time, we have in favourable years 
been able to cut Cucumbers as early as the 
8th of March. It is, however, only right to 
say that we have wooden covers to place on 
the linings; they are 4 feet wide and made 
of feather-edged boards nailed to cress-pieces, 
and there is not a doubt that these covers 
conGnc the heat and compel it to enter the frame 
However, we experience but very little ditfi- 
caity in keeping up the temperature to 70°. 
and far less steam is generated in a bed 
of this description than in a common hotbed. I 
should hardly like to say how many thousand 
cuttings are struck in our frames during the 
first three months of the year, but this I may 
sty, that we find it superior to the propagating 
pit for succulent cuttings. We find it necessary 
sometimes during a spell of cold weather in 
May, when the linings have reached the top of 
the frame, to remove a portion of the old lining 
altogether and substitute some well-prepared 
hot manure. This soon revives the heat, and the 
bed will then go on through the season without 
any further attention, if , if confined to the 
growth of Cucumbers. 

The depth op soil placed in the frame is 
abont the same as would be placed on a hotbed 
made in the ordinary way ; but as the soil is 
supported by the boards, it is not difficult to 
understand that whatever may be planted out 
ia the bed will require more water to keep it in 
a satisfactory condition as regards moisture 
than when the soil rests on the fermenting 
material, as is the case in a common hotbed. 
At first sight the details jnst. given may appear 
prohibitive, but, speaking from a lengthened 
experience of the management of hotbeds 
generally, I can freely assert that the plan here 
given will, if carefully worked out over a series 
of years, bear favourable comparison with any 
other with which I am acquainted.—C. C. 


FRUIT. 

PROFITABLE FRUIT CULTURE. 
Although not what may be strictly termed a 
market grower, I have good experience in fruit 
growing districts, and number among my personal 
friends several practical men who not only are 
successful fruit growers, but who are particularly 
good judges of what kinds and varieties are 
most profitable. I venture, therefore, for the 
benefit of intending planters, to offer a few 
observations of my own. Competition, it appears, 
owing mainily to the extensive imports, is now 
very keen, and it is not entirely a question, 
when selecting, as to which varieties are most 
proliGc, but which sell the most readily. With 
this end in view, the intending grower at the 
outset should frequently visit the markets and 
ascertain, as far as practicable, what is most in 
demand at the different seasons, the best method 
of sending, and other serviceable details. The 
friendship of a salesman is especially valuable, 
not only then, butlater on when the orchards are 
in full bearing, as these men know I better than 

Digitizer by GO glC 


anyone what should be grown, how to send the 
produce, and when best to push the sales. It 
will be found that there are three very Important 
agencies in connection with the success of a 
fruit grower, and which should not be lost sight 
of by beginners, viz., suitable soil, favourable 
position, and convenient locality of the orchard. 

Soil and Position. 

Not a little depends upon the natural soil 
of the intended site. A shallow surface soil, 
with perhaps a gravelly subsoil, is altogether 
unsuitable, as the majority of fruits that 
ought to be grown succeed only on a 
comparatively strong and deep soil. To 
double dig this, however, on a large scale is 
almost out of the question; but a well-horsed 
subsoilcr will do much to break up and 
eventually improve the hitherto unbroken sub¬ 
soil. If naturally retentive of moisture and 
imperfectly drained, then by all means resort to 
artificial draining ; bat rapid Bballow draining 
must be guarded against, or this may prove 
nearly as injurious as stagnation. As a rule, 
the subsoil only requires draining, and this both 
deeply—say about 4 feet—and at wide intervals 
—say about 20 feet, or midway between each row 
of trees. This, with good outlets, will insure 
the requisite slow, but certain, percolation of the 
surface water through the whole depth. With 
regard to a favourable position, as a rule, I 
should prefer to plant an orchard on a gentle 
declivity, with a S.S.W. inclination, and would 
provide a belt of Spruce or other Firs to afford 
further shelter from easterly winds, which so 
frequently greatly injure our orchards. If a 
comparatively light soil prevails, then I should 
prefer a level, but not low-lying position for an 
orchard, avoiding land in proximity to a stream, 
which inevitably contributes to, if not the sole 
cause of, late spiiog frosts. We not only are 
anxious to secure a good "blowth.'as an 
abundance of bloom is suggestively termed by 
the natives of some of the western counties, but 
like to avoid the great anxiety prevailing in low- 
lying districts till a good set is secured. 

Locality. 

More than is at first apparent depends upon 
commencing fruit growing for profit in a favour¬ 
able locality, and this, to deserve the designation, 
should be in the neighbourhood of a large pro¬ 
vincial town, or within comparatively easy dis¬ 
tance of London. After a fair experience in 
more northern districts, I can safely assert that 
better crops on an average can be secured in the 
more favoured southern counties, and there is a 
greater certainty of effecting better sales in 
London than elsewhere, not excepting even such 
important towns as Manchester, Liverpool, 
Leeds, Nottingham, Sc c. Kent, Surrey, Sussex, 
Essex, Herts are all available for the production 
of, and each does contribute largely to, the re¬ 
quisite supplies of fruit. The sontli-western 
counties are all highly favourable for fruit cul¬ 
ture, hut the bulk of the produce must be sent 
to a great distance to secure profitable prices, 
the demand in such towns as Bristol, Batb, 
Southampton, Portsmouth, &c., apparently not 
being extensive. At times fruiterers in these 
important towns can give good prices for a 
moderate quantity of fruit, and it may be best 
to let them have it. As a matter of fact, how¬ 
ever, many provincial fruiterers are in close 
business relations with London market salesmen, 
and from them procure the bulk of their choicest 
fruits. At times the fruiterers find it necessary 
to send mnch snrplus fruit to tbe salesmen, and 
this does not improve the “ returns ” of the 
growers. Another advantage attending the 
proximity of an orchard to a large town is the 
certainty of being better served by the railway 
companies, and in this case the produce will be 
delivered quickly and well. 

What should be Grown. 

There are certain kinds of fruits that invari¬ 
ably prove profitable, and which may safely be 
planted in large quantities. Of these, the most 
in demand are Damsons, kitchen and preserving 
Plums, kitchen Apples, black and red Currants, 
Gooseberries, Strawberries, and Morello Cherries. 
As will be seen, nearly the whole of the fore¬ 
going are applied to two or more purposes, being 
either fit for dessert, making into jam, or for 
cooking. Damsons are also largely employed in 
the production of a dye, while Plums are fre¬ 
quently bought up wholesale for various pur¬ 
poses. Kitchen Apples, notably the early sort s 


sometimes sell very readily j besides they are 
available before the heavy foreign supplies rerch 
our shores. Black and red Currants are ex¬ 
tremely popular fruits, and I an informed on 
good authority that the former are largely ex¬ 
ported ; added to this they seldom fail to bear 
well. Gooseberries give two chances, being 
oftentimes very profitable when sold in a green 
state; besides, this insures the thinning of heavy 
crops, and thereby greatly affects the quality of 
those left to ripen. Strawberries are an expen¬ 
sive bnt at tbe same time remunerative crop, as 
when sent in good condition they find a ready 
sale (at least such is my experience in the metro¬ 
politan markets, to which I ought perhaps to 
state my remarks have especial reference). 
Standard trees of Morellos when planted in 
Ibe middle of an orchard seldom fail to bear 
heavily, and a remarkably pretty sight they 
present. Dessert Cherries occasionally prove 
extremely profitable, but are a glorious un¬ 
certainty nevertheless. Applesgenerally, Pears, 
Filberts, and Raspberries, each in their turn, 
prove profitable, and may well be grown in 
limited quantities, the aim being to have as 
many chances as possible. At times, though sel¬ 
dom of late years, there is a glut of Apples in 
the market, many sending in large quantities to 
avoid storing, and in this case, probably, tbe 
“returns” are nil. If properly stored, and this 

19 no easy matter, the American and Canadian 
supplies spoil the markets, and, strange to say, 
our Transatlantic brethren better understand 
what sorts are the best adapted tothe workand 
prove most saleable. Neither do they risk 
failure be sending inferior or mixed samples. 
All their fruit are even in s'ze, bright in 
colour, and, in addition, whether rightly so or 
or not, are considered adapted to either culinary 
or dessert purposes. Here lies the secret of their 
undoubted success in finding good markets, and 
their tactics should be imitated by wonld-be suc¬ 
cessful fruit growers In this country. That is to 
say, a few only really good sorts should be grown, 
bat the bulk of the trees should be of varieties 
adapted for either purpose, and if highly coloured 
so much the better. When sending, keep the very 
small fruits back, or, at any rate, in separate 
sieves, as they tend to spoil the samples, and 
binder the sale accordingly. Pears are not to be 
depended upon, bnt a few rows may occascnally 
prove profitable, none more so than “Williams,'’ 
as the costers and others easily abbreviate 
Williams’s Bon Chretien. Raspberries seldom 
fail to crop heavily, bnt they travel badly, and, 
as a rule, have to be sold locally. Filberts and 
Cobs only succeed in rich, loamy soils, such, for 
instance, as will grow good Hops. In Kent 
they are particularly well managed, and in a 
good season more thin eon>i>ensate for the 
labour bestowed upon the orchard. They are 
either disposed between the widely-planted rows 
of Apple trees or are alternated with the Apples. 
They are not allowed to grow at random after 
the manner of the Hazel in hedgerows, but are 
trained similarly to Red Currant bushes, only 
much taller, or, as some prefer, Bimilar to a 
dwarf Apple tree with a clear centre, and are as 
closely pruned, with the exception of retaining 
a quantity of spray-bearing catkins to provide 
pollen for the proper fertilisation of the appa¬ 
rently insignicant, but most important, fertile 
flowers. 

Arrangement ok Orchards. 

A good arrangement, of which I for years have 
had an insight into, might well be adopted by 
others. The orchard comprises all the kinds of 
fruit I have mentioned, with the exception of 
Strawberries, these after the first seven years 
being grown quite clear of all other crops All 
the Apples, Bears, Plums, and Cherries are grown 
as standards, the lines as a rule beiEg formed 
with one sort, running through a length of about 

20 feet apart, the trees in the lines being the same 
distance asunder. All the available space between 
the trees each way is rather thickly planted 
with Gooseberries, Currants, Raspberries, and 
Filberts—large breadths, each containing severs! 
thousand plants, being thus worked in. When 
the standard trees had grown considerably and 
the bushes become crowded, half of the latter 
were removed and planted in a new orchard. 
On the same farm numbers of Damson trees 
were planted almost in the hedgerows and ate 
doing well; and if a new hedge thoald be re¬ 
quired (and they are sometimes serviceable in 
preserving a path or restricting a right of road!, 



Peb. 2, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


553 


these are formed of either Gooseberries or 
Currants. Every foot of ground is thus utilised, 
and should be in every case. Many of the trees 
I have seen planted or have assisted to plant 
were “ miserable scrags," and these are preferred 
to vigorous and more attractive looking trees. 
Being probably grown on a poor soil, the change, 
instead of being injurious, proves highly bene¬ 
ficial, and the trees soon get established aud 
grow freely. It is advisable to stop the lower 
branches, but as they materially assist to swell 
the stems, they should on no account be removed 
till this is accomplished. 

Trees infested with American blight should by 
no means be planted, as this pest is not easily 
eradicated, and if allowed to spread quickly 
ruins an orchard. Experienced men are always 
anxious to procure trees true to name, but are 
doubly solicitous with regard to the possibility 
of having American blight sent to them. They 
would destroy these infested trees rather than 
plant them. In planting, unless the young cul¬ 
tivator has secured the services of a trustworthy 
and experienced foreman, no dependence what¬ 
ever should be placed upon untried workmen. If 
left to the latter, the chances are the trees and 
bushes will be both mixed and badly planted. 
A spit taken out with a spade, the roots of a 
bush thrust in, aud the soil returned without 
breaking and trodden in, will not answer in an 
orchard, if it does sometimes for nurserymen. 
A good-sized hole should be dug, the bottom 
made firm, and on this the roots, previously 
trimmed where bruised or unequal, may be 
evenly disposed aud surrounded with well 
broken up soil. Deep planting, although it saves 
stakes (I know of no other reason why people 
should plant deeply), is simply ruinous. If the 
soil be poor, it should be enriched at the com¬ 
mencement, and all well-established trees and 
bushes on any soil well repay for annual and 
biennial top-dressings with fresh manure. Very 
seldom do market growers resort to root-pruning. 
This is rendered unnecessary by simply with¬ 
holding the knife after the trees are once 
framed out. Let alone, they soon fruit abun¬ 
dantly, and all that is necessary is to occasion¬ 
ally shorten back straggling shoots and to thin 
out where crowded. The bushes are annually 
pruned. 

Varieties. 

A selection of varieties that have been found 
profitable in a southern county is as follows : — 
Of Apples— Keswick Codlin, MankaCodlin, Lord 
Suffield, Red Quarrenden, King of the Tippins, 
Duchess of Oldenburgh, Hawthornden, Cellini, 
Cox’s Orange Pippin, Blenheim Orange, Warner's 
King, Reinette du Canada, Fearn’s Pippin, Jolly 
Beggar, Stirling Castle, and Sturmer Pippin. 
Pears—Williams's Bon Chretien, Louise Bonne of 
Jersey, Dnchesse d’Angouleme, Crassane, B.eurrt- 
Diel, Hacon's Incomparable, Hazel, Beurre 
d’Aremberg, and Bearrfi Ranee. Plums—Early 
Rivers, Victoria, Orleans, Green Gage, Coe’s 
Golden Drop, Pond’s Seedling, Washington, and 
Mitchelson's. Cherries—May Duke, Bigareau, 
Black Tartarian, Elton, Red Jacket, Kentish, 
and Morello. Gooseberries —Whitesmith, Early 
Sulphur, Crown Bob, Red Warrington, Golden 
Drop, and Lancashire Lad. Of Red Currants— 
ltsby Castle and Red Dutch ; White Currants— 
White Dutch; and of Black Currants—Lee’s 
Prolific and Black Naples are preferred. Straw¬ 
berries—Alice Maud, Vicomtesse Hericart dc 
Thury, President, Sir J. Paxton, Dr. Hogg, Bri¬ 
tish Queen, and Eleanor are all largely grown 
for the markets, though, as a rule, the growers 
depend upon three varieties, and which form a 
good succession. I ought not to omit mention¬ 
ing that the Damson largely planted by those 
in the secret is the Cluster or Crittenden Prolific. 

Fbuit Grower. 


10895.—Mildew on Vines.— From the 
age of the Vines as stated, it is probable that 
the cause of the mildew is that the roots have 
found their way down into a close, wet subsoil. 
A renovartion of the border, with drainage, is 
therefore recommended as the most likely way 
of stopping the tendency to mildew. Bnt in 
addition the whole of the Vines above ground 
should be carefully washed with Gishurst or 
other parasite-destroying composition, and 
further, after the buds have broken and vege¬ 
tation is in progress, the Bboots onght to be 
syringed with sulphur water, or have flowers of 
sulphur blown over them with a sulphurating 
bellows; and this to be repeated two or three 

Digitized by GOOgle 


times daring the growing season. By following 
the method last mentioned, I have for several 
years kept all my Vines, both indoor and outdoor, 
entirely free from mildew.—J. M. 

- The mildew would not be so bad if the 

roots were in a well-drained border. See if the 
drainage is right. You ought now to strip off 
all the loose bark from the Vines, then paint 
them with the following mixture: To two quarts 
of warm rain-water add half pound flowers of 
sulphur, four ounces of soft soap, and half pint 
of Tobacco liquor; stir this well together and 
paint the Vines with it. As soon as mildew 
appears, paint the hot-water pipes with flowers 
of sulphur, and dust the leaves with it.—J. D.E. 

10876. — Pruning Apples. —“ Blenheim 
Orange ’’ inquires if it is advisable to prnne off 
the lower branches of Apple trees, so as to form 
round-headed trees. Well, it is very difficult to 
give a correct answer without knowing all the 
circumstances of the case, bnt as a rule it is not 
advisable to cut off large branches from old 
trees, as the wounds heal up much more slowly 
than in the case of young trees, and unless new 
bark grows over the cut parts, the wood soon 
dies, and, rotting away, soon causes the decay 
of the stem, and eventually of the entire tree, 
and as the tree carried a fine crop of frnit last 
year, I should decidedly advise that no more 
pruning than is absolutely necessary be given 
them, for there can be no question bat that 
pruning is a necessary evil in some cases, and 
the less it is practised the better.—J. Groom. 

-We do not understand why yonr neigh¬ 
bour ont away the lower branches of his trees, 
unless they were too crowded or he wished to 
have them on taller stems. Yon will gain no¬ 
thing by so doing; on the contrary, there will 
be a loss of bearing wood. The Apple is natu¬ 
rally a low spreading tree, and does not require 
to be trimmed up.—J. C. B. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

(Continued from page 507). 

The Rose House. 

Few plants yield better results for painstaking 
culture beneath a glass roof than does the Rose. 
The time will come, I hope and think, when 
every villa garden will have its rosery under 
glass. In the suburbs of towns, where the Rose 
dwindles and dies in ihe open air, poisoned by 
the vitiated atmosphere, a fair amount of success 
may be obtained by building a house for their 
culture. And no matter how hnmble and primi¬ 
tive the structure may be ; so long as the plants 
are sheltered from the imparities in the air, they 
will grow and flourish. I have seen good Roses 
growing in a turf pit, rudely constructed by a 
town amateur, where in the open air the Rose 
failed to grow; but 

The Best Ki.nd ok House 
to grow a succession of first-class blossoms in 
is a span-roof, not too large nor too curtailed in 
scope, but high enough to allow a covering of 
Teas and Noisettes to be spread under the roof, 
yet at the same time the roof should be near 
enough to the plants in the centre bed to pro¬ 
duce vigorous growth. A good size for a 
rosery nnder glass for a moderate sized garden, 
would be 30 feet to 36 feet long, 16 feet wide, 
and 9 feet high to the ridge. A well made 
border, 3 feet wide, should ran all round the 
sides next the wall, and a raised bed or pit 
should occupy the centre. The faster growing 
Teas and Noisettes should be planted close 
to the wall, and be allowed and encouraged to 
ramble over wires placed 6 inches or 8 inches 
beneath the roof, spanning the path at intervals 
of 6 feet or bo. I would have iron arches 
formed of a single stout rod, on which should 
be trained the Blower growing Teas and hybrid 
Teas, whilst the bed or pit, which should be 
from 2 feet to 3 feet deep and filled with 
leaves, should contain a collection of Roses in 
pots. Such, then, should be 

The Arrangement of the House. 

The pots should be plunged in the bed of 
leaves, which should be damp enough to ferment 
mildly. Anyone who has grown Roses in pots 
plunged in a bed of leaves in a house or pit 
otherwise unheated, mast have been struck by 
the vigorous growth and robust blossoms which 
this treatment never fails to produce, as well as 
the absenoe of insects, which are often such a 


nuisance on Roses in spring, especially if their 
wants are not promptly met. The soft, genial 
atmosphere which is produced by a mildly 
fermenting bed of leaves has a marvellous effect 
upon the growth of the Rose, as in fact it has 
upon all vegetation. 

The Soil for Roses 

mnst not be too light. A mellow, tnrfy loam, 
enriched with about a third of its bulk of decayed 
manure, is beat. The best way to prepare it will 
be to cut the loam (the top 3 inches or 4 inches 
including the turf from an old meadow) early 
iu September, if possible, and lay it in a ridge- 
Bhaped heap, with the manure placed with it in 
alternate layers. When prepared in this way, 
the manure may be fresh, though it should be 
free from litter. The heap will ferment a 
little, and become blended and in fine condition 
for use in the course of three or four months. 
It will only then require chopping down with the 
spade to fit it for use. The border should have 
a layer of drainage in the bottom, and then be 
filled in 2 feet in thickness with the prepared 
compost; and when sufficiently settled the 
Roses may be planted, wbioh, if turned ont of 
pots, may be done at any season of the year. 
As regards the central bed in places where 
leaves cannot be obtained, it may, perhaps, be 
advisable to give up the idea of a bed of fer¬ 
menting materials, as manure alone would be 
unsafe to nse. Cocoa fibre as a plunging ma¬ 
terial has its advantages, especially as regaids 
neatness in appearance and regularity of tem- 
peratnre and moisture. On no account should 
too many plants be crowded intotbe house, as 
the result will be disappointing. 

Roses in Pots. 

If the plants have to be purchased, se'ect 
them not later than the first or second week in 
December. Have them home at once. Shorten 
their roots a little, and also shorten back their 
longest shoots—not to prune them finally, bnt 
just to relieve the heads a little. Pot them 
according to size in pots suitable for them, 
using drainage in the bottom, as we should do 
for Geraniums or such like plants. Then plunge 
the pots in a bed of leaves or litter in the open 
air, and if frost comes before the plants are 
moved into the house scatter a little long litter 
over the tops of the pots also. 

The first year, thongh the house may be un¬ 
heated, yet it will be better if a 4-inch How and 
return pipe are taken round the house to keep 
out severe frOBt, or the heating apparatus may, 
if desired, be employed to force the blooms on 
in spring, starting it gently about Chriatmas. 
During the time the plants in pots are plunged 
in the open air, the roots will not be Idle, as may 
be ascertained if we turn a plant out of its pot 
and examine its condition. And just previous 
to taking the plants in the honse the pruning 
should be completed. In order to get a good 
base to build upon during the immediately 
succeeding and following summers, the plants 
should be cut rather hard back, cutting out all 
weakly growths, and shortening the main sheets 
to some 5 or C inches. If started gently, 
all the dormant eyes will break, and plenty of 
wood forfaturense will be obtained. Especially 
will this be the case if the leaf-bed can be had 
to plunge in. In buying the Roses, it should be 
ascertained that all have been budded close to 
the ground. Careless budders sometimes, to 
save themselves from liaviDg to bend tbeir backs 
so much, stick the buds in several inches from 
the ground. Such plants should be discarded, 
aDd none bnt those springing directly from the 
ground taken. These, when planted or potted, 
should have the stock, whether Brier or Mannetti, 
buried beneath the soil. This will ultimately 
place the plant on its own roots, as the base 
of the budded Rose when in contact with the Boil 
will form roots. Through the growiug season, a 
moist, genial atmosphere must be maintained, 
using the syringe daily (twice on fine days) 
over the foliage of the plants. The roots must 
be kept In a moist, healthy condition, giving 
liquid manure when the blossom buds show, 
to enable them to develop into large and hand¬ 
some specimens. I have already referred to the 
necessity for the plants to stand thinly. One 
handsome, well-grown plant will give more satis¬ 
faction than a dozen drawn-up, weakly things 
will do. No amount of cultural skill can 
produce handsome pot Roses without they have 
plenty of space, i s., the loaves of one plant 
must not touch those of its neighbour. The 



554 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Feb. 2, 1884. 


plants from the central bed maybe moved to the 
open air in October, or earlier if required, and 
the exposure will have a resting and ripening 
tendency, and during the autumn a grand Chry- 
santhem show may be had in the central bed. 
Hoses and Chrysanthemums may in this way be 
linked with each other, as the latter will en¬ 
dure a smoky atmosphere better than the Rose, 
though Roses will take no harm in the autumn, 
when growth is completed, if they are housed 
again before the buds begin to move. 

Insects and Diseases. 

Roses are more easily kept clean under glass 
than in the open air. Fumigation with tobacco 
will make short work of the flies. Mildew must 
be met, if it makes its appearance, with a dres¬ 
sing of sulphur, either in a dry or a liquid form. 
A genial atmosphere and healthy root action are 
the best antidotes for insect pests, or for diseases 
of any kind. 

The second year the potting should be done 
in autumn, using the same compost as has been 
previously recommended, giving the strong 
plants a liberal shift. The weakly ones, after 
being reduced, may perhaps go back into the 
same sire again. The pruning should be less 
severe, as we want the plants to increase in 
size - to, in fact, form handsome specimens; and 
the strong flowering wood may be left in Borne 
cases a foot long, at the same time keeping the 
plant symmetrical and well balanced, for if the 
plant pashes upward too fast the base will 
become weak. As the plants grow, especially in 
succeeding years, a little training wilt be neces¬ 
sary, as the heavy flowers will require support 
to prevent them falling over and sustaining 
damage. A few neat, light stakes will answer 
the purpose very well, but no more should be 
used than are needed, as sticks do not add to 
the charms of the Bor e. 

Standard Roses in Pots 
are longer lived than in open air, and if not 
too tall, are very useful. Especially is it desi¬ 
rable to have a few standards to mix with a 
collection of dwarfs. They take off the same¬ 
ness, break up the monotony as it were, and 
add to the interest of the collection. Though I 
Btarted this paper with a description of an ideal 
house, yet Roses may be grown successfully 
under any kind of glass roof, and I hope I have 
not said anything likely to deter anyone fond of 
Roses from beginning their culture even within 
the smoke radius, either planted in beds or 
altogether in pots under glass. Experience 
teacheth knowledge, and there are many little 
matters which only experience can teach. Diffi¬ 
culties are Btrewn pretty freely in everyone's 
path, and it is by surmounting these difficulties 
that the most valuable experience is gained. 

Boses on their Own Roots. 

In forming a collection of Roses for culture 
under glass, it is best to buy the strongest and 
best budded plants, selecting the most robust 
varieties for pot culture. In after years cuttings 
will be rooted of the most suitable kinds, and the 
collection may ultimately be got upon their own 
roots if it be so desired. A good deal may be 
said on both sides of the question, end I do not 
feel called upon to argue it out now. As regards 
Pruning Pot Roses, 

as a rule, all shoots which are not strong enough 
to carry blossoms are best cut clean out, and 
the stronger shoots should be so regulated as to 
show a fair proportion all over the plants. Only 
in this way can well balanced bushes be grown 
The flowering wood should be shortened back in 
proportion to strength, and as plants under 
glass mature all their buds, there is no fear of 
cutting off all the blossoms, even if the shoots 
are shortened back considerably. In pruning 
Teas, the same system of cutting away weak 
shoots should prevail; but as Teas are more ex¬ 
citable, and do not altogether cease growing, the 
shortening back should be to ripe wood, but no 
further; and so long as there is space to fill, the 
leaders may be laid in nnshortened. 

VARIETIES. 

I append a short list, from which, as a matter 
of course, it is inevitable that many good and 
suitable varieties are omitted. 

Tea Botes. —Adam, Anna Oilivier, Belle Lyon- 
nalse, Cheshunt Hybrid, Catherine Mermet, 
Devoniensis, Duchess of Edinburgh, Homer, 
Isabella Sprout, Madame Faloot, Madame 
Dravy, Marie Van Houtte, Niphotos, Rubens 

' 


Morie, Safrano, Souvenir d’un Ami, and Qloire 
de Dijon. 

Noisette Roses .—Celine Forestier, Lamarque, 
Janne Desprez, La Biche, Miss Gray, Bonquet 
d'Or, Ophirie, and Solfaterre, 

Hybrid Perpetuate .— Abel Carriere, Alfred 
Colomb, Annie de Diesbach, Annie Laxton, 
Baroness Bothschild, Beauty of Waltham, Cap¬ 
tain Christy, Charles Lefebvre, Countess of Ox¬ 
ford, Dr. Andry, Due Descazes, Duchess of 
Bedford, Duchess of Orleans, Duchess de Val- 
lembrosa, Duke of Edinburgh, Emily Laxton, 
Emilie Hausburg, Etienne Levet, Francois 
Michelon, Glory of Waltham, Harrison Weir, 
John Hopper, La France, Hippolyte Jamain, 
Lonise Dazzens, Louise Peyrocny, Madame Al¬ 
phonse Lavallee, Madame Marie Finger, Mar¬ 
quise de Castellano, Monsieur E. Y. Teas, Mrs. 
Baker, Prince Camille de Rohan, A. K. Williams, 
and Jules Margottin. This list might be much 
extended, as any vigorous grower may be added 
to it. 

Bourbon, Roses .— Baronne Gonella, Emotion, 
Reine Victoria, Queen of the Bourbons, Souvenir 
de la Malmaison. 

Moss Roses .—Madame Landean, Mr. W. Panl, 
Salet, Lanei, and Little Gem. E. Hobday. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(miscellaneous.) 

10874.— Damp In chimneys— Does the 
pipe lead from the chimney in a horizontal 
direction ? If so, the cause of the fire not draw¬ 
ing might be easily accounted for. Heated air 
rises readily in a perpendicular pipe or flue, as 
the upward pressure is greater than the down¬ 
ward, the difference being equal to the 
difference of the weight of the heated air 
and an equal volume of air at the tem¬ 
perature of the atmosphere at the came 
place and level. But when the direction is 
horizontal, if the pipe or flue be full of heated 
air, there is no greater tendency to motion in one 
direction or the other, especially on a still day 
when there are no natural currents, and a 
still day in winter is generally a damp day. 
Gardeners generally, in such circumstances, viz., 
where houses are heated by horizontal flues, 
when lighting their fires commence with 
some materials of combustion anch as wood 
shavings. Then they put on small wood, and next 
larger wood, thereby keeping up a good flame 
till a draught is secured, viz, till the cold 
air in the upright flue or chimney is replaced 
with hot. An air-tight door at the bottom of the 
perpendicnlar chimney allowing some combus¬ 
tible material to be ignited in the flue, and the 
door closed on it, would give an upward current 
of air, and cause the Are to draw. I would ad¬ 
vise “ Perplexed,” if his iron pipe is horizontal, 
and he tries the above mentioned expedient and 
it fails, to carry his pipe upwards as high as 
practicable in a perpendicular direction, and 
conneot it with an opening in the chimney with 
a piece placed horizontally. If this be not con¬ 
venient, he might remove the stove to the 
chimney.—L. C. K. 

10900.— Lily of the Valley not grow¬ 
ing—It may be useful to “ J. S.” ia the future 
to know how I grow the Lily of the Valley. It 
must be remembered that this subject is a gross 
feeder. I find it do best planted in half-rotten 
manure from a hotbed and half turfy mould. 
The crowns may be placed as closely in the pots 
as you can put them. As soon as potted they 
should be plunged in a hotbed and covered with 
Cocoa-nut fibre, but as I do not keep hotbeds 
goiDg at this time of year, I manage as follows. 
I get a box deep enough to contain a 4 j-incli 
pot and partly fill it with Cocoa-nut fibre; I 
then place in it the pots of Lily of the Valley, 
and cover all over with the plunging material. 
I then put box and all npon the hot-water pipes 
in the greenhouse. Here they remain until 
they have made some considerable growth, when 
they are gradually lifted from their warmer 
quarters to the staging. When supplied with a 
little manure water, they flower well.—W. C. 
Cowley, 

10903— Plants losing their leaves— 
I am not surprised that “ J. H. B. H.” should 
find his plants lose their leaves when brought 
into his rooms. I could never get them to do 
satisfactorily in snch places. I remember seeing 
In a cottage window a simple contrivance which 


I thought was good. When the lights in the 
room were lighted, the blind (which was not 
made of wood) was drawn over the plants 
which stood on the window-sill, and in this way 
a great deal of the bad air, which is so in¬ 
jurious to plant life, was warded off. There 
may be lots of people who do this, but the idea 
is new to me, and is, I think, worth a trial by 
those who go in for window gardening.— 
Wm. C. Cowley. 

10877.— Ground glass for roofs.— There 
is no advantage 'gained by using ground glass 
for plant houses, as in the case of Ferns and 
plants which love shade from sun, the ordinary 
horticultural glass can be shaded in summer, and 
in winter, when the days are dull and short, 
they can enjoy the full light, which in our 
climate is never too much at that time, even for 
such things as dread the sun most. A practical 
gardener wonld never think of having a plant- 
house glazed with ground glass, as by so doing 
he would deprive himself of the means of 
growing any great variety of plants in the same 
structure.—B yfleet. 

10885.— Maiden-hair Ferns.— When the 
fronds turn brown cut them off, as they are then 
of no further use to the plant. The right time 
to shift is just as the new fronds have pushed 
out of the crowns. In repotting use good 
fibrous peat, with plenty of white sand in it; 
pressthe fresh compost infirmly round the base, 
and water very carefully until growth is being 
fairly made. But repotting is not absolutely 
necessary, as Ferns will do well in the same pots 
for years if well matured when growing. We 
have some Maiden-hairs four years in the same 
pots, and they do well.—J. C. 11. 

1091G.— Cutting back FuchBiae, &c. 
—In all such cases as “E. A. 11.” enquires 
about, the plant should be cut back first and 
allowed to throw out sheots, aud show signs of 
active growth before being repotted, the rea¬ 
son being that when a plant is cut back it 
receives a check, and if, before it has recovered 
itself, it receives another check from repotting, 
it might prove fatal. First cat the plants back 
as much as necessary, and then, when they have 
well sprouted, repot in sweet soil, and they will 
be very much benefited by the change.— W. C. 
Cowley. 

10905.— Cinerarias.— These ought either to 
be in bloom now or showing for bloom. If they 
are in that stage, it wonld be best to leave the 
young growths that are starting from the base 
as they are nntil the plants have done flowering, 
when you may cut the old stems off, and take 
the cuttings at any time during the summer 
months.—J. D. E. 

-The young shoots which spring from the 

base of the plants may be taken off at once with 
as much "heel ” as possible, and will strike in a 
warm house under a handlight, but taking them 
off now is liable to have an injurious influence 
on the blooming of the plants. The best way is 
to cut down the stems when the blooms fade, 
and remove them to a cold frame in a cool 
aspect, taking off the cuttings in August. But 
unless they are named varieties you wish to 
perpetuate, it is not worth while to adopt this 
means of increase, as Cinerarias are so easily 
grown from seed.—J. C. B. 

10873.— Birds and fruit buds.— I would 
advise “ Scoto ” to adopt the same plan that I 
have for several years practised with success, viz ; 
about the first week in December take some fine 
cotton (black or white) and twine it among the 
branches of the Currant and Gooseberry trees. 
The birds, when they alight upon the trees, will 
touch the cotton, and it will frighten them so, 
that “ Scoto ” may make Bure of the security of 
the fruit buds.—G. M. Stratton, Worcester. 

10917.— Smllax. —If yours is the Smilax so 
much grown in America for decoral ive purposes, 
it will grow in ordinary greenhouse temperature, 
shading from hot sun, giving plenty of water 
when growing, and syringing freely in hot 
weather. Pot in fibrous loam with a little leaf- 
mould and white sand, and beep in the warmest 
place in the house.—J. C. B. 

10906— Plant for hanging basket - 
The situation is an unfavourable one, but the 
Wandering Jew Saxifrage wonld do very well 
there. It is one of the best plants in cultlvatios 
for window baskets, thriving in either a cool or 
warm room, and presenting a very graceful 
appearance when doing well. It is, rnoreovtr. 



Feb. 2, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


655 


of qui. k growth, and is pretty whether in or out 
of b'o:m.—J. C. B. 

10838.—Litllum auratum —Your treat¬ 
ment, so far, is all right. When they are estab¬ 
lished in soil suitable for them, they may be left 
undisturbed for several years. Let them alone 
this year also; and if you wish to dig them up 
for the purpose of dividing the roots, you ought 
to do it as soon as the leaves become yellow : 
they will have made considerable growth by this 
time.—J. D. E. 

10901.—Forcing Grapes.—It would not do to start 
a Vinery with heat in February and leave It off in April 
and May : the nights are very cold in thoss two months, 
and the Vines would be certain to receive a considerable 
check. Youmight leavo off the heat about the end of June. 
Bedding plants and Chrysanthemums could be kept iu 
the Vinery.—J. D. E. 

loss?.—Chrysanthemums not flowering — 
The treatment of the plants up to a certain potnt was all 
right, but they ought not to have been taken into a 
dwelling house until the buds were set and showing 
colour. After they were taken indoors you seem to have 
stopped the branches ; doing so would pinch the tlower- 
buds off.—J. D. E. 

10916.—Cutting back Fuchsias, &c.—It is best 
to cut back these, also Pelargoniums, Ac., before re¬ 
potting them, but you must allow them to start into 
growth before they are repotted. They should be done 
as soon as the growths have started half an inch or so.— 
J. D. E. 

10900.—Lily of the Valley not growing.—The 
reason the crowns have not started Is owing to the fact | 
that they have not had sufficient heat yet. Yon nmst 
wait patiently some time longer, unless you can put 
them into a warmer house, where they would soon start 
into growth with the aid of a little bottom-heat.—J. D. E 

10911.—Rosea for greenhouse.—Any variety of 
Hybrid Perpetual Rose would do in a greenhouse. One | 
of the very best is La France, and a good dark variety is 
Duke of Edinburgh Good growers and free blooming 
varieties should always be selected for pot culture.— 
J. D. E. 

10904.—Starting Vines.—After the Vinos have 
fairly started it would be best to close iho ventilators, 
rather than to keep Ihc Vines back by keeping them i 
open. 60 ° would be better than 65° until the time that 
the bunches are fonned.—J. D. E. 

10924 —White Grapes —The best white Grape3 are 
Fosters White Seedling, Eucklinu Sweetwater, and 
Royal Muscadine —J. D. E. 


Mushroom culture —Would Mushroom culture 
pay where manure is cheap ?— Novice. [Fes, if well 
carried cut. " Mushroom Culture,” by W. Robinson, will 
(five you much information on the subject. It may be had 
from our office by applying to the publisher. 

Vol- V. of Gardening.— When did Vol. V. of 
Gardening commence, ani when will it be concluded ? 
—W. C B. [It commenced, in March last, and will end in 
February neat). 

T. J .—“ The Kitchen and Market Garden,” Crosby 
Lockwood and Co. “The English Flower Garden,’ 
37, Southampton Street. Covent Garden; and “Fruit 
Culture under Glfua” (Thompson's), Blackwood and 

Sons, London and Edinburgh- Charles R. Hainilton. 

Messrs. Veitch and Soni, Royal Exotic Nursery, King’s 
Road, Chelsea. 

D. D.— Try Messrs. Veitch and Sons, Royal Exotic 
Nursery, Chelsea. 

Name of plan R. if.— Gairya elllptica. 


QUERIES 


Rules for Correspondents .—All communica¬ 
tions for insertion should oe clearly and concisely written 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. 
Letters relating to business to the Publisher. The name 
and address of the sender w. reouired , in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should always bear the number and title qf the yncry 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day of publication , t‘< is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 


Naming plants. —Fourplants, fruits, or floicers only 
can be named at one time, and this only when good 
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name 
varieties of florists' flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums , 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
specialist who has the means qf comparison at hand. Any 
communication respecting plants or dowers sent to name 
should always accompany the parcel 

10969.—Uses of greenhouses.—Will some of your 
readers kindly give me advice under the following cir¬ 
cumstances :—I have recently taken possession of a house 
that has large accommodation in the Bhape of glasshouses 
attached. No. 1 is a span-roof, 23 feet by 12 feet, heated 
by slow combustion stove. No. 2 a lean-to, 23 feet by 
9 feet, unheated, facing north-east. No. 3 a lean to, 10 
feet by 9 feet, heated from kitchen beneath, and fully 
exposed on two sides, viz., east and south, to sun. No 4 
a lean-to, 36 feet by 3 feet, facing south, but unheated. 
In Nos. 1 and 2 are Black Hamburgh Vines, covering the 
e reater portion of roofs.;No. 3 is empty. No. 4 has a Passion 
Flower growing against the wall. I want to know what 
la best and cheapest for me to stock them with, as 1 have 
neither much time nor ca*h to spare, yet want to make 
aome use of my opportunity.— Enquiring Amateur. 

10970.—Colour in vegetable julcee. — Iu the 
cour*® of last autumn I was struck by a curious exudation 
of juice from a gourd or seed vessel (the seed vessel stalk, 
not the seeds) of Vegetable Marrow, its colour being a 
beautiful vermilion; and lately I have chanced to see 
the water In which some Jerusa^m Artichokes Imd |e^ 


boiled, which, when cold, was a beautiful emerald. As 
neither of these colours appear in the uncooked vege¬ 
table, there must be some chemical reason, which I 
should be glad to have explained, if you will be so kind 
as to do so. Of course, 'he Artichokes were cut off clean 
from the stalks and washed, then cooked in a white- 
lined sxucepan.—A Constant Reader. 

10971.—Pelargoniums and Cyclamens.—I have 
a large Pelargonium potted up lost September. It has 
been kept since iu an unheated greenhouse iu a south 
area, temperature between 45 9 and 60It has 
apparently done well hitherto, aud been growing slowly, 
bat now the leaves are getting spotted with mildew. 
What can I do? I give air on mild days. Iu the same 
house I have two Cyclamens, one of which put out a few 
flower buds about six weeks ago, but they have not 
grown much ; the other has small leaves on long stalks, 
and no flower buds. Is it likely to flower later, or uot, 
and what can 1 do to it ?—L. D. 

10972—Young ‘Grape Vines.-Will some reader 
please instruct me now to manage my Vines ? I have 
four in a small half span-roofed house. '(hey are one 
year planted this winter, and started In growth a fort¬ 
night. I did not want them to do so for a month. I 
leave a little air at night and day. The house is heated by 
hot-water, and I cannot shut off all the heat. I cut them 
off level with the stage. They have two and three leaders 
each. Must 1 take off two, and what heat should they 
be kept at; and should the front light be opened or not? 
I have Camellias, Azaleas, and bedding plants in same 
house.—J. W. 

10973. -Ferns in Wardian case.—I have a 
Wardian case which is 3 feet long, 15 Inches wide, and 
3 feet high, in which I have had all sorts of British Ferns 
growing, but never succeeded in making a good show. 
They grow spindly and weak. I have Nephrolepia 
exaltata and a Palm, both of which are growing well and 
seem iu good health. The case is in the kitchen, and the 
temperature always from 50 Q to 65°. I think of taking 
out the British Ferns and stocking it with exotics. Any 
hints as to the sort of Ferns which would be best, would 
be very acceptable —Lover of Ferns. 

10974.— Arranging heating apparatus.— I shall 
be glad if any reader will kindly give me advice under 
the following circumstances I have built a greenhouse 
33 feet loDg by about 8 feet wide, and wish to grow 
Tomatoes aud Cucumbers principally. I am going in for 
a hot water apparatus, and am at a lots to know ho w to 
arrange the pipes. There is a pit in the front. Would it 
be advisable to have a pipe under the pit and one out¬ 
side, or would it be beat to have both outside, along the 
front of the house, or by side of path?— Tomato. 

10975.—Green fly on Roses.— I have a Gloire de 
Dijon Rose in my greenhouse which covers half the roof 
(10 feet by 12 feet). It Is infested with green fly. I have 
syringed with soft soap—2 ounces to a gallon of water. I 
notice the young shoots and some of ths buds (already 
formed) are withering up. Is this caused by the soft 
soap, and should I wash off afterwards with water ? I 
was recommended this recipe for green fly and mildew. 

I am quite free from mildew this year.—W. B., Staly- 
bridge. 

10976.— Arches for climbers.— I have five arches 
with Roses and Honeysuckles trained over, but they are 
spoilt by every gale of wind. They are constructed with 
old gas piping, three quarters of an inch in diameter, 
for uprights, and for the half circles, a very stout wire, 
such as is sometimes used for clothes lines. The ends of 
the wires are inserted in the piping. Will some reader 
of Gardening tell me how I can construct some arches 
which will be durable, but inexpensive ?-Plum. 

10977.— Building a garden wall —I have a large 
garden, which I am going to enclose with a brickwall 9 
feet high, in which to grow fruit. I am about buying all 
the materials myself, and engaging a bricklayer to build 
the wall. Can any reader tell me what quantity of 
bricks, sand, lime. Ac , I shall have to buy for 16 rods of 
brickwork, and what is a fair price to pay the bricklayer 
per rod for building same, and what the cost of mate¬ 
rials? -Brick Wall. 

10978.—Treatment of Violets.—Last February I 
planted violet roots on a south border under shelter of 
shrubs. They flourished, and spread, and seeded, but 
did not flower. In November they were full of bud, aud 
were then green and healthy. Now there is not a leaf on 
them, though the buds remain. How can I treat them ? 
I think worns have done the mischief, as a great deal of 
gravel from the path is drawn into the bed.— Roatfi. 

10979.—Plants for greenhouse —I have just 
erected a small greenhouse, 12 feet long, 5 feet wide, 
which is 18 inches high in front to 7 feet at back, 5 feet 
high from ground level. I shall be very glad if some 
reader would siy the best assorted plants to grow in it, 
and whether a Vine would do well. If so, must it be 
planted outside the house and passed underneath ? Can 
I grow some Cucumbers ? I have now a few Geraniums 
and Ferns In the house.—S t. Kildas. 

10980.— Camellia buds not opening.—I have 
two Camellias in a cold greenhouse, which are in bud. 
and have been so for about two months and a half, but 
they seem at a standstill and will not flower. I water 
them about every four or five days, and give them air In 
moderation to the state of the weather. Will some 
reader kindly tell me the reason why they do not flower? 
—T. W. 

10981.—Primulas damping off.—Will you be kind 
enough to reply to the following question:—Why do 
Primulas, when they have just commenced to show for 
blossom (and up to that time have appeared quite 
healthy), begin to damp off? I have raised several nice 

{ tlants, and one by one they shed all the leaves. What 
s the preventive ?—C. K. F. 

10982.—Nicotlanas and Dahlias.—Last summer I 
purchased a small plant of Nlcotiana aftluia and potted 
it In a 3-inch pot, which it has Ailed with healthy roots. 
Will it still bloom, and when should I repot it? Do 
siugle Dahlias succeed well iu a cool greenhouse ? When 
should the seed be sown, and what treatment do they 
require ?— Neophyte. 

10933 .—Aiiamanda Hendereoni.—I should be 
glad to know it the above perfects its seeds in this 
country; also the description of the seed pods. Any 
tnrormation will oblige.— st. Brides. 


1C934.—Cineraria leaves curling.—Can anyono 
tell why the leaves of my Cinerarias curl up ? They have 
been iu a cool house all the winter, and properly shifted 
Into larger pots as required. They show well for bloom, 
but each leaf is quite curled up. If there is any enre for 
this, I shall be very glad to know of it.— Ivy Lodge. 

10985.—Foxgloves not blooming.—In the spring 
of 1882 I grew some Foxgloves from seed obtained from 
a good florist. The plants are large and healthy, but 
have never flowered. Will someone say how they should 
be treated this spring ? They are against a south wall.— 
Roatii. 

10386 —Camellias for profit.—I am thinking of 
putting up a house in which to grow Camellias for profit. 
Would Tomatoes or Roses trained under the roof over 
the Camellias injure them during the summer months, 
or is there any other profitable crop to be grown iu such 
a house ?—F. 3. 

10937.—Manure for Verbenas.—I intend trying to 
grow Verbenas, but as I cannot procure well-rotted 
stable manure, as recommended, to enrich the soil, will 
someone kindly tell me if any of the artificial manures 
will have the same effect?— Alice. 

1098S — Planting Strawberries. — Would any 
correspondent inform me how mauy Strawberry plants 
are required for one acre of land with the ordinary spaces 
between each row, the best time to plant, and the cost ?— 
VBRU3. 

10989.—Window plants. —Will some reader be 
kind enough to give me the names of a few good window 
plants, free bloomers, that will stand the winter 
without fire, not including Fuchsias and Geraniums? 
Windows face south-east— Yorkshike. 

10990 —Climbing Roses.—I wish to plant Cheshunt 
Hybrid and Celine Forestier Roses. Will some reader 
inform mo as to how these will do on a south wall In the 
open air? Failing these, please name two m jre as good 
that will do. — Yellow. 

10991. — Hardy Grasses.—Will some practical 
gardener kindly give a list of hardy ornamental Grasses, 
and specify whether they are annual or perennial ? The 
seed catalogues do not give these particulars regarding 
Grasses.— Hill House. 

10992 —Double glazing—Would double glazing 
add much to the heat of a small full-span greenhouse, 
and if bo, should the sides and ends be double glazed, as 
well as the roof? Size of house, 15 feet by 1U feet.— 
Mount Falcon. 

10993.—Plants and Giehurst compound.— 
Noticing scale on Statice profusa, I dipped the plant in 
a warm solution of Glshurst. The leaves have all 
shrivelled, and it looks as if it were going to die. How 
should I treat it?—W. C. B 

10991 —Edging tllea.—I should be glad of any infor¬ 
mation about tiles for edging borders in a small suburban 
garden, the best sort, where to be obtained, and the co3t. 
—E S. 

10995.—Garden Roses.—Will some reader name 
four of the beat Perpetual Roses and two of the best 
hardy Tea Rosea? Will Marechal Niel and Niphctos 
do as window plants?— Duke of Connaught. ^ 

10998.—Wbat is an Orchid ?—What peculiarity in 
structure or functions, or both, fixes a plant as a member 
of the family of Orchids ?—Random. 

10997.—Propagating frame—Will any reader 
kindly describe the arrangement of a propagating frame 
to be heated artificially ?—Av.roe. 

10998 —Grafting Cherry and Plum trees — 
Will any practical gardener inform me when is the bes 
time to graft Cherry and Plntn trees ?— Anxious. 


POULTRY. 


Choioe of breed as winter layers.— 

This is the chief consideration with many 
poultry keepers, and when the exorbitant prices 
asked by dairymen for really fresh eggs be con¬ 
sidered, it is not to be wondered at. But the 
great mistake made is in supposing that when 
once you have obtained possession of a flock of 
fowls which are a well known winter laying 
kind, you will have nothing further to do than 
to feed well, house well, and pick up the eggs. 
It is the hatching of hardy chickens early in the 
year, and successfully rearing them and pusliing 
them on to rapid maturity by constant attention, 
which will alone insure a supply of eggs during 
the next winter. Old birds will never pay for 
their food in winter time, and generally stop 
laying as soon as moulting commences, and do 
not recommence until spring weather makes its 
appearance. Therefore, the only way to proceed 
is to sit eggs from good hardy parents, judiciously 
mated, about February, and not later than the 
beginning of March. The pullets, if properly 
attended to, will commence to lay about 
September or October, and continue to do so 
right through the winter. A correspondent 
writing from Fife complains that he has Brahma 
pullets eight months old which have not laid 
yet. We are not surprised at this. His chickens 
were not hatched until about July, and con¬ 
sequently were not matured before winter set in, 
which checked them, and they will in all pro¬ 
bability remain in the same backward state until 
spring brings more genial weather, and enables 
them to make a fresh start. But had he hatched 
them early in the year, they would have bad all 
the spring and summer months to grow and 
mature before winter set in, and so would not be 
much afiectedby the cold and wet of t hat season. 


556 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Fbb. 2, 1884. 


He also keeps Plymouth Bocks, and is satisfied 
with them, but does not state their age. These 
birds are good winter layers and well able to 
stand cold weather, besides which the chicken 
are very hardy and feather qnickly, which is 
very desirable if required to be hatched early in 
the year. The Brahma, however, we consider 
the best of all as a winter layer, that is to say, 
early hatched pullets of the same year. Old 
birds are no better than other breeds. We are 
asked whether Brahma-Dorkings and Brahma- 
Leghorns are good winter layers. They would 
no doubt prove very good layers of good size 
i-ggs, and would be most useful as sitters. In the 
latter cross, if a white Leghorn cock be mated 
with light Brahma hens, the result would be some 
very handsome and useful birds. Other good 
winte rlaying sorts are the Cochins, Dominiques, 
Scotch Greys, Langshans, and Houdans (the 
latter if kept under very favourable circum¬ 
stances). But none of these breeds will come 
up to expectations unless batched early and 
properly cared for. —Andalusian. 


BIRDS. 

Food for canaries. —We are canaries, 
and, at the present time, we get sufficient food 
at a time to last several days (in self-supplying 
hoppers). We want something different at 
breeding time, and we should be glad if some 
reader of this paper would give directions for 
makiDg a food to be used dry so that it shall not 
turn sour, as we are left pretty much to our¬ 
selves, and do not wish to have to fall back 
upon seed to feed our young ones on, as we had 
to do a few times last season. We also give a 
very cordial invitation to anyone who answers 
our query to call upon us and hear us sing, or 
watch us feed our young with the food which 
we know our master will prepare for us as soon 
as he knows how.— Canaries. 

Goldfinch not Binging —I have had a 
goldfinch for three years, and since his last 
moult he has left off singing, and he keeps his 
beak open as if gasping for breath, and 1 don’t 
think he eats so well as he used to. I feed him 
on canary seed and rape seed mixed, and a little 
hemp seed. Sometimes he flicks the seed out of 
his mouth, as though he could not swallow it. 
Can anyone tell me what is the matter with him 
and the remedy, and oblige ?— Carolus. 

Keeping canaries.— Could any reader tell me 
where Is the best place to keep canaries! I keep my 
bird la the bedroom, because the kitchen chimney smokes, 
end the bird doos not seem to like it. I have not a hen 
bird yet, but shall have in a few days. Shall I put them 
both together at ODce ? 1 have not bred canaries before, 
and should like to kuow something about it. —AU3TBR, 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 


How to oook Asparagus Kale— Wash 
and trim the purple tops off the Kale, tie it in 
bunches, and put it into plenty of boiling water 
with a teaspoonful of salt. When it is quite 
tender lift It out, drain the water well from it, 
and send it to the table with plain melted batter. 
When fashion is not studied, it is best served up 
like Asparagus, viz., upon a piece of toasted 
bread. Time, eighteen or twenty minutes—less 
if required crisp. Another may :—Trim and wash 
the Kale well and put it into boiling water, into 
which a handful of salt has been put. Boil it 
ten or twelve minutes, drain it well, put it into 
a saucepan with as much good brown gravy as 
will nearly cover it, stew it for ten minutes or 
until quite tender, and send it to table very hot. 
Or boil the vegetable in salt and water,and when 
it is dished, pour over it plenty of rich white 
sauce. Kale in season from January till April. 
—G. M. Stratton, Worcester. 

To smoke dry baoon.— When the bacon 
is properly cured, haDg it up iu the chimney 
corner (if you have one), not too near the fire. 
Make a fire upon the hearth with any kind of 
wood that will make a good smoke, stop up tte 
chimney occasionally for a few minutes daily, 
let the bacon remain for a few months, till well 
dried, then take it down and put it in a box 
with a few inches of malt dust under and over 
the bacon, and the bacon will be of excellent 
flavour. Keep the box in a dry place.—G. M, 
Stratton, Worcester. 

Vinegar for plckllnsr-—Will any reader kiudly 
oblige me with a really gooa recipe for making vinegar 
I hat would do for pickling? Having a small garden. I can 
have the vegetables, but nod purchasing vinegar Is rather 
expensive, where economy haa to be studied. Uan wine 

Digitized by GOOgle 


be made from beet-root, has It any taste, and how la It 
made?—A. widow. 


Pigeons dying.— Would some reader kindly (ell 
me the reason my pigeons die ? Just as they should he 
learning to peck, a yellow skin comes on the beak. A i> 
information will oblige.—C. B. 


Ooke for heating. —I have been much 
interested in the correspondence in your valu¬ 
able paper about heatiDg small greenhouses, and 
especially in the able article in last week's issue. 
There is, however, one point which I consider 
has not been sufficiently insisted on, viz., the im¬ 
portance of having whatever fuel is used 
broken very small. I believe half the failures 
in the use of slow combustion stoves to be due 
to the neglect of this. Perhaps some of your 
readers would find my experience useful. Last 
spring I erected a span-roof house 12 by 8 feet, 
and commenced heating it with one of the D 
shaped, or saddle on end boilers. I soon found, 
however, that in my hands, owing to the small 
amonnt of fire space, it wonld not burn more 
than six hours without attention. The begin¬ 
ning of this winter I added to my glass a small 
lean-to stove-house 8 by 5 feet, outside the 
door of which I placed an independent 
cylindrical boiler, with an extended hopper 
or top feeder. I have 3-inch pipes running 
from the boiler through both houses, with 
valves to shut off the heat from my cold house 
when necessary. During my early experiments 
I was much troubled as to the question of fuel, 
but came to the conclusion that coke broken 
very small was tbe best thing, and that the 
s nailer it was broken the better it burnt, and 
the longer the fire lasted without attention. 
Now came my difficulty, as I found it rather a 
serious undertaking haviDg every scuttleful of 
coke used broken by hand. I was lucky, how¬ 
ever, in finding the very thing I needed in the 
fuel Bold by the British Patent Coke Co., who 
send out their coke washed free from sulphur 
and broken walnnt size. With this fuel I make 
up my fire twice a day—at nine in the morning 
and again at four in the afternoon. This lasts 
well till nine the following morning. I have 
often been too busy to attend to the afternoon 
stoking, but bare always found the fire alight 
at tbe end of tbe twenty-four hours, with a good 
body of heat. Lately I happened to run short 
of the patent fuel, and had to fall back on some 
coke supplied for domestic use by one of the 
Gas Companies. I immediately noticed a dif¬ 
ference. Owing to the size of the coke It used 
to swell and stick in the top of the boiler, and 
my fire would go out unless I stoked it more 
frequently. I think the result of my experience 
shows that half the battle iu the successful use 
of small slow combustion boilers, consists in 
having whatever fuel is used broken very small, 
certainly not bigger than walnut size. I hope 
these remarks may be of some use to your 
readers.—M. K. C. S. 

Arrangement of hot water pipes — 

I have often thought of saying something to 
readers of Gardening touching the arrange¬ 
ment of hot water pipes in greenhouses, Ac. 
On this subject there is a very great amonnt of 
misconception. Take, for instance, an inquiry 
in this week’s Gardening. “ Will some ex¬ 
pert,” asks ‘ J. E. V.,’ “kindly tellmewhat is the 
lowest gradient upward that will secure a suffi¬ 
cient flow for hot water in 4-inch pipes ? Will 
an inch rise in 6 feet do, or may I venture upon 
less than this ? There is already a very good 
rise in the pipes nearest the boiler. My enquiry 
relates to a proposed continuation of the piping 
to the fernery after it has passed through my 
greenhouse.” Evidently the querist has got 
hold of the notion so common even among hot 
water engineers (who ought to know better) 
that there ought to be a gradual rise to the 
point farthest from the boiler, and then a fall 
back iuto it. But why a gradual rise to the 
farthest point ? My advice is, get to the high¬ 
est point as near to the boiler as you can. And 
the reason for this is plain if people will only 
take the trouble to think. The water imme¬ 
diately after leaving the boiler begins to cool, as, 
in fact, we want it to do, and cooling water 
ought to be allowed, if possible, to go down hill, 
as in this way the circulation is assisted. If you 
have 200 feet of piping, and the highest point is 
at the end of the firet 100 feet, then, though the 
water is gradually parting with its heat, you 
force it all that distance up-hill; there is a 
struggle between the water which is cooling 


(which the force of gravitation would send back 
to tbe boiler), and that which has just left the 
boiler. But get to the greatest height (and I 
need not say that the greater this is the better) 
at once, and then the water which is cooling is 
all working (so to speak) in one direction snd 
the circulation is increased. This is so plain 
that I baldly need say more. But I have proved 
it. I may add, as well. I heat a greenhouse of 
about 36 feet by 7 feet (with a bay in addition) 
from my kitchen boiler, but until I altered my 
pipes so as to bring my gradients into con¬ 
formity with tbe principle I have just laid down, 

I did little good. Now I have no trouble.— 
Cantab. 

Ventilating greenhouses.— We have 
from time to time had valuable bints and in¬ 
structions upon the management of greenhouses, 
but there is oDe subject I should like to see 
dealt with in a more exhaustive article, and that 
is “ Ventilation.” During the late wild and 
damp weather my flowers, Geraniums especially, 
have suffered much from being kept shut up. 
I was told in foggy and damp weather to keep 
the house closed and not to put on any heat till 
after it was over, unless there was frost, and 
then for the purpose of drying the bouse. 
Several experienced persons have told me this, 
but, surely, the position of the honse must make 
all the difference. A friend of mine cannot get his 
house moist enough because it is built on pillars 
10 feet above garden level, while mine, which is 
built on a hard garden path, would be better if 
drier. We have just bad three days of heavy 
foggy weather, and the thermometer at 50°. 
Now I did not like to open the windows for fear 
of letting in the damp, nor did I like to put on 
heat, for fear of running the temperature up and 
making my cuttiDgs still more spindly than they 
are now with the mildness of the season. The 
consequence was on the fourth morning when I 
went in everything looked bilious. The leaves 
were yellow, mildew was rampant, and it smelt 
like a vault. If some experienced reader 
would write on this matter I am sure it would be 
a boon to many amateur readers. I suppose the 
size of the house makes a great difference, and 
the number of plants it contains. Mine is ODly a 
small one, 11 feet by 6 feet, and is quite full of 
all sorts. A short time back an interesting 
description was given by a correspondent as to 
how he grew Camellias, Ac., in an nnheated 
house, stating he only put on beat three times 
last winter. Surely, such houses as these must 
have a damp-proof flooring.— Chiswick. 

Gas lime as a manure.— The lime used 
in purifying gas is a good material for improving 
cold, heavy land, and it has the effect of killing 
wireworm and other insects. Four tons to the 
acre is the quantity usually applied. In some 
cases it is dug in as soon as it is put on the land; 
in others, left during the winter, but in all cases 
it should be spread immediately, for if allowed 
to remain in heaps, nothing will grow where 
they have been for some time. It cannot be 
used with safety as a surface dressing to cropped 
ground. It may be used in old garden ground 
with advantage, but it must not be put near the 
roots of frait trees in its fresh Btate.—E. 


ASP AE AIGU S 

FOB FORGING, strong crowns wbtefc will produce many 
heads, 3s. dozen, IS'. 5d. 100. 
SE3AKALBJ, 

FAMOUS FORCING ROOTS. 2a. 6d. dozen, 16a. IOC. 

RICH ARD SMITH & Co., Worcester. 
TWOPENCE PER PACKET.-Flower seeds 

J- of finest quality: all from the be»t atrains; cannot • * 
surpassed. German Aster, Ten-week Stock, single Dahlia. 
Tuberous Begonia, Balsam, Sweet Pear, Carnation, Araaa. 
Perm, Chrysanthemum,Xrtner&i la, f rmul a N iootianaaffini*. 
Is. worth and upwards post free.—O. SHILLING, 
man, Winchheld, Hants. 


rp WO PENCE PER PACKET.-Choice flower 

JL seed*—Lobelia, Petunia, Salvia. Gloxkia, Co'eus, C4- 
oeolarin. Musk, Verbena, Zinnia, Ph'ox Drummoodi wraci.- 
flora. Golden Feather, Godetia, Canary Creeper, Pan-?, 
Mignonette, Variegated Maize. Laveud.r Tortnia Convol¬ 
vulus major. 8emitive Plant, Qiant M-mulua. Edelwcus. 
etc , cannot be sur paw cl. Is. worth and onwards poet free. 
—C. SHILLING, Seedsman, Wmchfleld. Hants. 


flENUINE VEGETABLE SEEDS at moderate 

prices p^et free — Sunrise Paae. la. quart ; Broad 
Beans, 6d. quart; Early Horn C»rrot, 4i. ounce; 

Ocion, 6& ounc-r; Mrgoum Bonum Onion, Is. ouoo-t; 
Cabbage, Is. o-anoe; Celery, Cauliflower, Cucumber, Toauk\ 
Melon, Lettuoe selected stoaks io Id., 3d., and 3d. pkte 
suit all buyers. Hundred* of testimonials. —O. SHILLlFd. 
Seedsman, Winehfield, Haute 


flOLLKCTIONS of Vegetable and Flower Seels 

VJ from Is to 10*. 6<1, io suit all Try f hem All cxrrafe 
free —O. SHILLING, Seodanian, Winccddld. Hants. 


GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED. 


Vol. V. 


THE GARDEN OF THE FUTURE. 
Within the last few years a great revival has 
taken place in all Ihat concerns taste, and every 
day that passes forces npon ns the conviction 
how necessary it is to bring every thing con¬ 
nected with our daily life and our indoor and 
outdoor surroundings more into conformity 
with the principles of art. An artistic thing 
harmonises with everything, and is in itself a 
“ joy for ever," and nothing gives more of this 
feeling than a house that is in harmony with 
its position, and a garden that is not only in 
harmony with the house to which it belongs, 
bnt which is a garden in the proper sense of the 
word, i. e.,a collection of cultivated, beautifully 
tended flowers. 

Nowhere is purity of taste (the avoidance of 
all shams, of everything unreal and meaningless) 
more necessary than in our gardens and pleasure 
grounds. Some of the stately homes of Eng¬ 
land have their terrace gardens planned to 
harmonise with the architecture ; and lovely 
and quaint are some of the old Dutch gardens, 
surrounding houses that were old in the time of 
Queen Elizabeth. The most part, however, of 
the country houses of England have a character 
of their own, stone built houses, of no great 
architectual merit, bnt unpretending and solid, 
teUing by their grey weather-beaten appearance 
of years of strife with the elements. Sur¬ 
rounded by longsweeps of lawn, and set about by 
ancestral trees, they have a beauty of their own. 
Of late years this has been too often spoilt, the 
beautiful lawn dotted over by some horror of a 
consumptive Bhrub, or cut op by beds of 
wonderful sizes, shapes, and designs, filled with 
the vulgar alternative of Calceolaria or Geranium 
— Geranium cr Calceolaria, with an edging or 
two of Lobelia or Perilla thrown in. Well may 
it be if we are not further called upon to‘‘admire’’ 
the ribbon border, in all its dreadful unin¬ 
teresting length. Then the border round the 
house, the few stunted Roses, the inevitable 
Virginian Creeper, the poor scarlet Geraniums, 
all suffering of drought, and dust, and absence 
of good nutritions soil. 

Let us suppose all has changed, as it will be 
when we have realized what constitutes beauty. 
If the house resembles those we have last de¬ 
scribed, and is not of the ornamental cottage 
order, it will probably be our first duty to re¬ 
move all the straggling creepers and shabby 
Hoses ; they can never thrive. We will suppose a 
neat flagged path under the windows. We will 
also pull np all little bushes, and fill up all beds 
that prevent our eyes from dwelling lovingly 
on the long stretches of greensward upon 
which the morning and evening shadows play. 
And then our garden I Where shall that be 1 
You see these shrubberies, backed in the dis¬ 
tance by tall trees f They are on one side of 
the house, and face south-west. Then, having 
done away with our red Geranium and yellow 
Calceolaria abominations, we will make our first 
effort at a grand herbaceous border. We are 
lucky that it is sheltered from the north-east, 
and also that the Yews and Rhodondendrons 
will make such a background to our flowers. 
In the time of planted-out gardens we were 
able to enjoy their so-called beauty for the space 
of perhaps six weeks—from July to September. 

Again, after much labour and expense, we had 
a “ spring garden,” which delighted us (or not, 
according to the weather) from April to the 
last week in May, when our lovely Pansies, 
Aubrietias, Silenes, Wallflowers, and most of our 
late Tulips were ruthlessly dragged up to make 
way for their summer rivals. Now, seeing our 
gardens as they will be in the future, and as 
they were years ago in the past, we venture to 
predict a much increased delight—a constant 
succession of beauty, flowers for each season, 
even under the snow, when we scrape it away 
to find our Christmas Roses, our few pale 
Violets. 

And now as to the practical part of the work. 
Two things must be well impressed. First, that 
the ground be so deeply trenched that all 
straggling surface roots from the neighbouring 
trees and shrubs are cut off, and the ground 
itself well enriched with leaf-mould ; and 


FEBRUARY 9, 1884. 


secondly, that, onoe planted, no such implement 
as a spade should come near our herbaceous 
border. Nothing is more fatal than the autumn 
diggings to which our borders are exposed. 
Hundreds of plants are missing every year from 
borders that are dog. Of late years the gardener's 
energies have been concentrated on his rows of 
tidy cuttings and plants for his much loved 
summer bedding out, and any labourer has been 
thought good enough to turn on to the poor 
herbaceous border. When we are told that such 
and such plants have “ died," we may be pretty 
sure that the right expression would be "destroyed 
by the spade.” Therefore, it is above all necessary 
that it should be understood that no spade or 
Dutch hoe be allowed. In the autnmn, a light 
forking over with a small fork after dead 
rubbish has been cut off and cleared away, and 
then a sprinkling of good short manure over the 
whole bed. This will be dragged down by the 
worms into the soil during the winter. What re¬ 
mains can be raked off in the spring, the ground 
being then again gently forked and raked 
smooth. By this means none of the bulbs will 
be destroyed, the beauty of the garden much in¬ 
creased, and the expense lessened, as the border 
will not reqnire re-furnishing. 

Turning now to the flowers which should com¬ 
pose the garden, I will mention that second to 
nothing in effect would be the introduction in 
the extreme backgrounds of some clumps of 
newly imported auratum Lilies. These Bhould 
be planted among the smaller shrubs, as they 
like the grateful shade to the young spikes 
during the hot summer months. I saw some 
grown like this (the second year), and they were 
a sight to remember. Each clump had thrown 
np half a dozen stalks, perhaps five feet high, 
covered with thirty or forty large blossoms, per¬ 
fuming the whole air. Amongst the tall flower¬ 
ing plants in the background of the border, I 
will mention Solidago canadensis or Golden 
Rod, Rudbeckia Newmani (like small Sun 
Fowers, deep yellow, large maroon eye) Phloxes 
of all sorts, remembering always that these 
flower equally in the wettest season; Polygonum 
Larpentie, with its fine large foliage and small 
white flowers ; Michaelmas Daisies, the larger 
blue sort amongst others ; Lychnis cbalcedonica, 
with its bright scarlet flowers, and growing 4 
feet high ; and the shorter Lychnis dioica rubra 
plena. The grand herbaceous 8unflowers, 
giganteus, and the smaller very donble one, 
mnltiflorns ; of course, a group or two of Holly¬ 
hocks (not a stiff row !) and Dahlias ; of these 
last, the Cactus sort is the most striking, Glare 
of the Gardens being very effective. Foxgloves 
must not be forgotten, nor Campanulas, notably 
the grandis and grandis alba. I may also 
mention these: —Alstrccmeria chilensis, Ane¬ 
mone japonica alba 'and A. Honorine Jobert, 
Delphinium grandiflorum, Dictamnns, Gaillar- 
dia picta (yellow and red, very beautiful), all 
the tribe of Irises, Malva Morensi, Lilium can- 
didum, L. cbalcedonicum, Lobelia cardinalis, 
Mnscaria botryoides, Pyretbrum carnenm, Salvia 
patens (a fine valuable blue-), Spirma palmata, 
Fuchsia gracilis, Tritoma Uvaria, Pteonia alba 
superba and Veronica amethystina. 

Coming down to the plants of shorter growth, 
and which should therefore be kept in front, I 
will mention, over an 1 above the well known 
ones, snch as coloured Daisies, Pansies, Pinks of 
different sorts (including Clove Pinks, Pheasant’s- 
eye, fimbriata major and Mrs. Sinking), Prim¬ 
roses, single and donble, and Wallflowers, 
brown and yellow, and a host of others, the 
following : — Alstrcemeria versicolor, Aqnilegia 
glandnlosa, A. cccrulea, A. californica, Armeria 
cephalotes, Erica carnea, Mimnlus, mixed, 
Myosotis azorica, (Enothera marginata, Primula 
amocna, Senecio pulcher, Verbena venoea, 
Hepaticas in variety, Gentians, Polygonum 
Ilrunonis, Potentillas and Veronica repens, 
Achilleas (both Millefolium rosea and Ptarmica), 
Alyssum saxatile, Anthericums of the three sorts, 
namely, Liliago, Liliastrum, and variegatum, 
Antirrhinums, Armeria alpinagrandifiora. Aster 
alpinus, alpine Anricnlas, Cheiranthus or alpine 
Wallflowers, Geum coccineum, Harpalium 
gridinm, the Hemerocallis, both flava and folva 


No. 257* 


(Day Lilies), Honesty, Iberis, Pentstemons, Plum¬ 
bago Larpentae, Rockets, Sweet Williams, Trol- 
lius europams, Violas, and many others. 
Amongst these can be planted, deep down and 
with plenty of sand round their roots, all sorts 
and varieties of bulbs, beginning with the 
double and single Snowdrops, and going on 
through all tiie varieties of Daffodils, Hyacinths, 
Narcissus,Tulips, Crown Imperials, and Crocuses, 
and ending with the ever beautiful tribe of 
Lilies. Always should it be remembered that 
these bulbs should be planted deep enough so 
that the light autumn forking does not hurt 
them. There is no doubt that all herbaceous 
plants look best in large masses, one enormous 
plant having a far finer effect than several 
smaller ones of the same sort planted at inter¬ 
vals. Of course the roots are apt to run too 
much together, so that each year there will be 
work for the gardener in taking them up, sepa¬ 
rating the roots, and replanting in a clump, 
through keeping each root a few inches apart. 
Most annuals are better sown in a little 
heat, pricked out into boxes, and then placed 
where they are intended to flower; and 
this answers particularly well in this sort of 
garden, as they can be pricked in over the place 
where the spring bulbs flowered. 

There are few country houses that could 
not have a garden of this sort, but the ex¬ 
tent of these herbaceous borders must depend 
upon the formation of the pleasure ground. 
No good can be done if the border does 
not face south, and is not sheltered. If this 
garden is, from the absence of these conditions, 
or other causes, an impossibility, then, sup¬ 
posing the house not to be a cottage, have a 
small garden away from the house in some shel¬ 
tered spot. If it requires fencing, have rustic 
wood, not iron. Make your beds of convenient 
shape to work in—no fantastic ones ; have paths 
between them for use, and then begin on the 
same principle, your smaller plants in front, 
your larger ones behind, backed by all manner 
of flowering shrubs. Let your rustic wood work 
be covered with creepers, and then your garden 
will be a blaze of colour in a green leafy setting. 

As I began, so let me end. Let ns no longer 
expend our energies on red beds edged with 
yellow, yellow beds edged with red. Let us 
forget that any one ever admired such atrocities. 
Let us go back to the days when a garden was 
what it should be, namely, a careful and cared 
for collection of flowers snitable to our country 
and oar climate. G. 


A SCOTTISH EXPERIENCE OF HARDY 
FLOWER GARDENING. 

In answer to “ P. R ," I have to say that as I in- 
tended writing an article on Scottish hardy 
fruits (if the Editor could allow a small space 
for that from my rusty pen), and as a descrip¬ 
tion of conditions of soil, site, and exposure to 
winds, comes more under that heading than 
nnder that of flowers, I purposely said little on 
the subject, especially as I consider that the ad¬ 
vantages of site in summer are counterbalanced 
by the disadvantages in winter. To illustrate, 
allow me to tell a story. An old Lord of the 
Supreme Court of Law, walking over the Pent- 
land hills in winter weather, saw some sheep 
standing npon a windy knoll, and remarked to 
the shepherd that he would have taken shelter 
in a “ lown hollow,” had he been a sheep. “ My 
Lord," said the herd, with that independence of 
opinion which marks the old Scotsman of the 
rural classes, •• bad you been a sheep, yon would 
have had • mair sense.’ ” Of course, the frost is 
keener in a hollow than on an exposed hillside, 
as anyone can test just now by observing how- 
hard the roads are in the hollows, and bow soft 
they are on the higher portions after a night’s 
slight frost. So it is with my garden. Insnmmer 
the heat is much higher than on the higher 
bank above, but in winter the frost sits in the 
hollow mnch keener, and when my neighbours 
around can dig their gardens, mine is ice bound, 
as “ P. R.” can prove for himself ere the spring 
is out. He is not to judge from the elevation o’ 
the auld brig, but come in and receive a hearty 
welcome. 


Google 



558 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Feb. 9 1884. 


As to the tide-borne riches he credits the 
growth to, it is chiefly imaginary I fear. The 
proprietor informs me that his father built the 
wall in the year 1812, and raised with ordinary 
earth the garden level several feet. Since 1 
became a tenant the laird very considerately 
rebuilt the river wall, lest my garden would be 
washed away altogether, not added to, as “ P. R.” 
would believe. What now comes over the raised 
wall, and because of the increased height, filters 
slowly off, leaving pure sand only, as can be 
proved by him at once, as last month I had a 
“ second deluge,” and lost some of the earth on 
the high bed and gained some inches of sand 
over walks and all the rest lying lower. Two 
or three hundred “ tallies ” also were swept off, 
so that is a loss and a confusion grievous to be 
borne by A. Sweet. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


RAISING PRIMROSES FROM SEED. 

G AUDEN'IN' {} friends have often complained to 
me that they cannot raise choice kinds of Prim¬ 
roses from seeds that they buy. The fault is 
probably more often in the treatment than in 
the seed; but it is true that the soed of some 
kinds keeps badly, and the vegetation, if it takes 
place at all, is slow in proportion to the time the 
seed has been kept. I think I have never failed 
to raise Primrose seed, if I have got it fresh from 
the plant and sown it as soon as ripe. My 
advice, therefore, is, obtain where possible a 
healthy flowering plant of the kind you wish to 
grow, let the seed ripen, and sow it as soon as it 
is ripe. Still I have raised many very good and 
choice Primroses from bought seed, though I 
own I never feel confident of being able to do 
so. It requires more patience, and the crop, 
when it appears, grows more slowly. I have 
never yet had any kind of Primrose which has 
ripened seed with me from which I could not 
get a plant to flower within a year of the time 
of the flower from which the seed was obtained. 
Perhaps some of the readers of Gardening 
Illustrated, who have not had much experi¬ 
ence in raising from seed, may like to have the 
whole process described. I have given up trying | 
to raise small seeds of anything, even Migno¬ 
nette, in the open ground. My cold, wet soil 
abounds so with worms, slugs, beetles, and 
similar pests, that the seedlings are eaten off as 
soon as they appear. I sow in pots, or square 
pans a foot wide and four inches deep, well drained 
and filled to within half an inch of the rim with 
fine soil —the usual potting mixture—neither too 
stiff nor too light. We call it one-third loam, 
one-third sand, and one-third riddled peat or 
leaf mould. Learned disquisitions about the 
soil-requirements of this or that plant only 
puzzle and frighten those who wish to be gar¬ 
deners. The materials above mentioned generally 
contain all that plants can want. If you can¬ 
not get leaf-mould, add a spoonful of wood- 
ashes, and if you cannot get good loam add 
a spoonful of lime or powdered old mortar, 
and mix them well with the soil; they 
may do good, and will do no harm 
Having made the surface of the soil level and 
pressed it down tolerably tight, especially in the 
corners and edges, sow the seed, if new, more 
thinly than if old; a thin crop is mere easily 
treated than if thick. Do not put soil over the 
seed.butdraw anything like the edge of a wooden 
garden label lightly over it, which will settle 
the seed sufficiently into the soil, which 
should be quite dry before sowing, and watered 
with a fine rose directly after, and never again 
be allowed to get quite dry. Some gardeners 
advise watering (he soil before sowing, but I 
never practice it. The pan, or pot, may then be 
put into a cold frame, close to the glass, or out- 
of-doors, with a piece of loose glass over the 
top; but it must be shaded if the sun is hot 
upon it. I never raise Primrose seed of any kind 
in artificial heat, which would tend to make the 
seedlings weak and drawn. Care must be taken 
that worms may not be able to crawl into the 
pots or pans from below. Standing on slates 
sprinkled with coarse sand to prevent the drain¬ 
age of the pot being obstructed, is a good plan. 
The glass over the top prevents the access of 
small beetles, which, under the name of “ flies,” 
often eat up small seedlings. 

Primrose seed sown as soon as it is ripe, which 
is generally in June, often sprouts in a week, 
but that which is bought or saved till spring 

Digitizes by GOUgle 


may take several weeks, or even months, insome 
cases even a year or more. The longer it takes to 
come up, the more difficult the seedlings are to 
deal with. The surface of the pan must also be 
kept clear of Moss and Lichen, which is no easy 
matter. Whether the crop is thick or thin, it is 
better to transplant the seedlings into a pan of 
fresh soil as soon as they are large enough to 
finger conveniently. Daring summer, the best 
place for these pans is under a north wall. 
The plants should be frequently watered, and, 
when large enough, be again transplanted to a 
store bed. My best store bed for all Primroses 
I have is two feet wide, under a wall facing 
north-west; the soil, which is artificial, and 
deeply dug—leaf-mould entering largely into 
its composition—is raised a foot above the 
ground level, and kept in by stones. In every 
transplanting, Primrose seedlings should be 
buried above the base of the leaves, and, as 
they grow, small' rich dressings of soil and 
manure may be put over them. If protected 
from slugs and such vermin, none will 
fail. All these rules apply to Primroses in 
general, but some kinds are far more eaBy to 


frame. Still I have had occasionally very fine 
trusses on sheltered parts of the rockery, and 
when raised from seed there will be plenty for 
every kind of experiment in dealing with them. 

Edge Hall, Maljias. C. Wolley Dod. 


Early Primroses.—It really appears as 
though we were going to have no winter again 
this year until the spring. The weather here is 
abnormally mild, even for Devonshire. During 
the first 18 days of January we have only had 
one very slight frost. This is the more remark¬ 
able, as the atmosphere, too, has been unusually 
calm nearly the whole time. At the present 
moment it is still and dry, though slightly hazy ; 
the temperature is about 50°, and the air is re¬ 
sounding with the notes of thrushes, blackbirds, 
and other feathered songsters. In the open gar¬ 
den Violets and Primroses have been floweriDg 
nearly the whole autumn and winter. I enclose 
for your acceptance a few of my hybrid Prim¬ 
roses, mostly seedlings. Amongst them you will 
find a nearly blue one, a seedling of last year. 
To me it is a novelty, possibly there may be 


others existing equally blue, but I have never been 
raise than others, and there are many of which able to sec one or raise one, so far, until the pre- 


I have never been fortunate enough to obtain 



Striped seedling Polyanthus. 

seed. Besides the many forms of Primula veris, 

I raise nearly every year F. rosea, P. denti- 
culata in many varieties, P. japonica, P. Sik- 
kimensis, P. farinosa, P. capitate, and two 
three alpine forms of the Auricula¬ 
leaved, or viscosa class, of which the names 
are hard to determine. All these ripen seeds 
readily; and as many of them vary much in 
merit, care should be taken to select the best 
flower heads to save from. I have never been 
successful with hybrid Primroses, properly so 
called, either raised by others or by myself; 
but I have found very great benefit by dusting 
pollen into the flowers with a camel-hair brush 
I take the brush on a bright, dry day, and dab 
it down into the flower heads which I have 
selected for seed, and then mark them with a 
bit of scarlet wool. I find at least three or four 
times as much seed in a head of P. capitata, so 
treated, as on one left alone. In my strong soil 
many kinds of Primrose flower for one or two 
seasons, and then become useless either for divi¬ 
sion or flowering again; so crops have to be 
raised continually. Rome few kinds can be 
divided successfully. Such are P. rosea, P. cor- 
tusoides, P. involucrata, which can easily be 
pulled to pieces; P. japonica and P. denticulata 
may be cut up with a knife if each piece of 
crown has a piece of root, and they are easily 
kept in this way if any particular variety is 
worth perpetuating; but seedlings at two years 
old make the best plants. I am sorry to say 
that I find the European Alpine Primroses not 
very satisfactory in the open air; they do better 
if wintered and allowed to flower in a cold 


sent time.—R. W. Beachey. [The Primroses 
were very pretty, possessing rich and 
varied colours, and one was, as Mr. 
ISeaohey remarks, nearly blue.— Ed ] 

10829.— Commencing hardy 
flower gardening.—If “ North of Ireland " 
will get the five small beds deeply dag 
at once—weather permitting, as working 
wet earth is a mistake—she will be able 
in March to begin planting with peren¬ 
nials. The centre bed might be made into 
a rockery, if any gnarled tree stump can 
be got, the older the better, to form a 
suitable base to work upon. Built about 
with rough stones of all colours, sizes, 
and shapes, it could be gradually planted 
with dwarf rock plants, of which the 
variety is great, as may be seen by writ¬ 
ing for a catalogue to any of the adver¬ 
tisers in Gardening. Sednms, Saxi¬ 
frages, Sempervivums, Ajugas, Armerias, 
Caltha palustris. Campanula carpatica, 
Funkias Sieboldi and undalata variegata, 
Ac., Hepaticas, Helianthemum Fireball, 
Hutchinsia alpina, Iberis, Lychnis Vis- 
caria flore-pleno (a real gem), Lithos- 
permum prostratum (another beauty in 
deep blue), Mimulus cupreus. Gaiety and 
Lord Beaconsfield Myosotis, Phlox setacea, 

1‘rimroses rosea, amiena, the doubles and 
singles all colours. Vinca minor, and here 
and there a white Pansy like Mrs. Felton, 
and a yellow like Robert Cowan, also to 
help effect, will make a rockery and 
no mistake, always blight. Bulbs can 
be interspersed, Dog’s tooth Violets, 
Snowdrops, Ac,, planted, however, in 
October next, as the time is past this season. 

If the aforenamed fist is not sufficient to choose 
from, then a royal Fern, a Hart’s-tongue, or any 
smaller varieties, of which many used to be 
common enough in the north of Ireland the last 
time I had a holiday there, wifi enhance the 
beauty of the Tockery, and shade Hepaticas, 
Pansies, Ac., from burning sun. For the two 
beds on each side a selection from the above list 
can be made, only observing to balance colours 
on each Bide of the centre bed, and if the beds 
at each end be planted in fines, as with rows of 
Houseleeks, Arabia lucida variegata, Daisies, 
red and white, with a Yucca in the centre, say, 
a very pleasing dwarf arrangement, which will 
last long and increase yearly, will be made. If 
the line form be chosen, an outside row of 
Golden Feather, raised from seed sown in a cold 
frame in March, sets off the Grass finely, or 
Cerastium tomentosum, if white, be preferred. 

Of course no plants are permanent year after 
year without a little care, such as lifting and 
separating into single crowns the Daisies, Prim¬ 
roses, Ac , every year or second year as the in¬ 
crease requires. Bulbs of Narcissi, dwarf 
Lilies, Crocus, Ac., could be planted in rows, and 
SedumB, Ac., above, would double the effect and 
lengthen the blooming season, but the withering 
Grass of these bulbs is objected to, and to out it 
off too soon hurts the next year’s bloom.—A 
Sweet. J 

- A permanent garden at little cost or/ 

trouble may be made of your five beds by plants 
ing in the centres Rose trees, Mezereoyaa, 
Fuchsias, and Chrysanthemums, then, accordiing 


JANA-CH/ 



Feb. 9, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


5 59 


to height and colour, Phloxes, Lychnis, Ladies’ 
Ruffle, Globe Ranunculuses, Japan Anemones, 
Rockets, and tall flowers. Between each plant 
put tufts of Narcissi and Daffodils, Iris, white 
and Martagon Lilies; and round the borders, 
Crocuses, Snowdrops, Anemones, Primroses, and 
Polyanthuses. In May sow over or round the 
bulbs seeds of Mignonette, Saponaria, Nemo* 
philla, &c, and in snmmcr fill all vacant spots 
■with Asters, Stocks, Geraniums, and Calceolarias. 
The same soil and aspect will suit all those 
hardy plants.—M. C., Dublin. 

A London garden.— 1 live in Rotherhithc, 
and I think every one must know that this is not 
a promising field for horticulture, yet, thanks to 
Gardening, I have been able to change a 
wilderness into a perfect paradise, at least it is 
so to me. When I first took my house the plot 
of ground which I call my garden was full of 
Docks, Chickweed, and other weeds, which, I 
think, would puzzle a botanical student to 
classify, and all the gardens to the right and 
left were not much better. I thought this might 
be somewhat improved, but having lived in a 
city warehouse the best part of my life, I had 
but very little idea how to make a start. In 
passing a bookstall, I saw Gardening exposed 
for sale, and bought it, and as fortune would 
have it there was an article on “ Town Garden¬ 
ing. ’ I followed out all the instructions given 
there, first rooting up all weeds, and then trench¬ 
ing the ground and laying it out in beds, which 
I made as simple as possible. I then gave it a 
good dressing of Salmon’s garden manure, which 
I found both clean and inexpensive. This was 
in August. I then left it until October, when I 
turned it over again. I then studied your ad¬ 
vertisement columns, which, by the bye, I have 
found almost as interesting as the other matter, 
and selected from them a quantity of bulbs for 
spring flowering. I planted them as directed, 
and I cannot tell you the pleasure it was to my¬ 
self and family to watch their gradual growth 
from the time they first peeped above the ground 
until they flowered, and I know our garden was 
the envy of the neighbours. The success I had 
with bulbs made me aDxious to have a good 
show in the summer, and as I constantly consulted 
Gardening, I knew the proper time to sow 
seeds of hardy annuals, which I bought for two¬ 
pence a packet from an advertiser in Garden¬ 
ing. I sowed the first lot in boxes indoors, and 
soon had a lot of seedlings, which were ready 
for planting out as soo* as the bulbs were 
cleared off. I only chose the hardy kinds, 9uch 
as Mignonette, Clarkia, Godetia, Tom Thumb 
Nasturtiums, Stocks, Pansies, Zinnias, French 
Marigolds, Snapdragons, Candytuft, Malope, 
Dwarf Convolvulus, Nemophila, Indian Pinks, 
and one or two others. Perhaps the result of this 
mixture would not have pleased a lover of 
order, but it pleased me, as we had our garden 
one mass of bloom the whole of the summer. 
I have this last autumn planted about 600 bulbs, 
including Crocus, Tulips, Hyacinths, &c,, and I 
see a whole host of them are just out of the 
ground, and I hope to have a better show this 
spring than I had even last. I send you this 
merely to show what may be done even in a 
London garden with a little trouble.—J. S. 

10934.—“ Old Man ” or Southernwood. 
—This 41 old fashioned and sweet scented 
favourite,” is I think already popular with the 
humble classes. My first remembrance of it is 
seeing sprigs of it in the hands of rustic maids 
going to church. A 6inall twig of it, begged from a 
cottage garden, was grown and propagated in the 
followingprimitive manner. Itwasputinto water 
until fibres (roots we called them) developed at 
the end, then placed in earth. It has grown 
into several mighty bushes; they are free of 
growth, and very woody. Perhaps it is not 
known by all that a decoction of this plant 
applied hot is a sovereign remedy for rheuma¬ 
tism.— Vera. 

- I do not think that 44 J. G. W.” should 

have any trouble in growing this plant; it is a 
great favourite, and is very suitable for growing 
in pots outside on the window-sill in a smoky 
town. In Glasgow, at the Working Men’s Flower 
Show there are always prizes offered for this 
favourite plant grown outside at the windows of 
dwelling houses. As to its cultivation it is very 
simple, any good soil suits it, and after it is 
planted it seldom requires much attention. 
A little pruning, so as to make a nice plant, 
is all that is required. W^en young plants 

Digitized by (jOOQlC 


are wanted, take off a few slips or cattiDgs about 
the middle or end of May ; take off the lower 
leaves, and dibble the cuttings into light sandy 
soil in a frame, and if they are covered with 
glass, they will strike quickly, but if they are 
dibbled in any shady place in the garden, they 
will strike very readily.— Albert, Glut gun:. 


SATIN FLOWER. 

(SISYRINCIUUM GRANDIKLOBUM.) 

Who would imagine on seeing this charming, 
yet fragile, flower in a cut state that it is hardy 
enougli to withstand the cold rains of February 
or the winds of March ? The plant is altogether 



The Satin Flower (Sisyrinchium grand! (lorum). 


more slender and graceful than any other open 
air plant with which we are acquainted. Its 
Rush-like foliage, growing erect and tufty, has 
doubtless suggested its popular name of Bush 
Lily, a name which to some is easier remembered 
and more euphonious than that given it by 
botanists. When well and fully grown, it is 
from 12 inches to 15 inches high. The flower- 
stems are intermingled with the foliage, and are 
about the same height. The blossoms are 
usually borne in pairs produced on slender stalks 
drooping out of the membraneous sheath called 
a spathe. One flower usually expands a day or 
so before the other, and if the stem is ent just 
as the first flower begins to open, the second one 
will succeed it as if it were still on the plant. 
Interesting as the plant is in the open border, it 
seems almost a pity to leave such delicate beauty 


to the mercy of the weather; and as the flowers 
last long in perfection when cut, it is best to have 
a few in a vase indoors where their beauty can 
be thoroughly enjoyed. We have said it is a 
hardy plant, but the term hardy is subject to 
conditions, for in some localities, particularly if 
the soil is surcharged with water in winter, 
it will succumb to hard frosts. In light soils it 
is perfectly hardy, but even under such circum¬ 
stances the plant seems always grateful for a 
little protective mulching during winter, such as 
short litter or Bracken. Its normal flowering 
time is in April and May, but already it is in 
bloom in some gardens, probably on acconnt of 
the prevailing mildness. Though pretty now, 
the plants will be more beautiful in the course 
of a few weeks when the days become warmer. 

Varieties. —There are two forms of this 
plant, the one supposed to be the typical dis¬ 
tinguished by its very fine vinous-purple blos¬ 
soms, the other called the alba or white variety, 
having flowers of spotless white, save the gold- 
tipped tufts or stamens. It is a hard matter to 
say which is the more beautiful. Both are 
charming kinds and worthy of the attention of 
every flower lover. In both the petals exhibit a 
transparency seen in few other flowers, and cer¬ 
tainly in no other hardy plant. The form and 
size of the flower are shown in the accompany¬ 
ing woodcut. This is not a new plant, having 
been introduced so far back as 1826. It is a 
native of that tract of country in the vicinity of 
the Columbia River which was explored by the 
botanical collector, Douglas, and it was by him 
it was first sent home. 

The culture of this plant is simple. It 
likes a good friable soil, such as may be found 
in most kitchen gardens. Some say it likes a 
shady place, but I have always seen it do best in 
the open in full exposure, but it is best to shelter 
it from strong winds in some way, as they tear 
and knock the plants about so badly. To pro¬ 
pagate it the plants should be lifted in autumn, 
and the tufts pulled carefully into as many 
pieces as are required, always leaving a suffi¬ 
ciency of roots on each piece to start it into 
growth. The pieces should be planted imme¬ 
diately in light soil, placing a little sand around 
the roots in order to induce the formation of 
new rootlets. Fibrous rooted plants such as 
this is require careful handling when propagated, 
for the roots soon suffer. Some grow this plant 
well in pots for greenhouse decoration in spring, 
and a very pretty plant it is for the purpose. 

O. 


Hinta on stoking. —Although the winter 
has been thus far very mild, we cannot ex¬ 
pect to escape the severities of spring, that are 
usually far more destructive to vegetation than 
the severest mid-winter frost, for then far greater 
precautions are taken to guard against it. But as 
soon as the snn begins to shine brightly, and 
the days to lengthen, the fires are let out, and 
sharp sudden visitations of frost, such as we get 
after bright days in March, are especially de¬ 
structive by reason of the sun’s rays bursting out 
fiercely, thereby causing sadden fluctuations of 
temperature. It is not necessary for plants 
grown in a genial temperature to be actually 
frozen to receive injury, and the only way to 
guard against such damage is to maintain a 
gradually progressive temperature by having 
the heating apparatus in readiness for any 
emergency, and I find that despite the un¬ 
doubted improvements that have taken place in 
boilers, stoves, and heating apparatuses gene¬ 
rally, the manner in which they will perform 
their task depends more on the stoker than any¬ 
thing else. In the first place, see that flues, 
chimneys, and ashpits are kept clean, for unless 
the fire burns brightly, there will be but little 
heat, and to ensure this the stoking irons must 
be long enough to reach to the back of the 
boiler, so as to beep that from being choked up 
with dust and ashes. The fnrnace bars should 
be wide enough apart to let the ashes freely 
through when stirred with the poker. The fire, 
when started, should have a good draught by 
pulling the damper out, but as soon as the pipes 
are hot, and a good fire burning, pnt the damper 
in at least three-fourths of its length, to prevent 
the too rapid escape of heat up the chimney. In 
fact, clean flues, a bright fire free from dust, and 
attention to regulating the amount of draught by 
the damper, are the main points of good stoking 
—James Groom, dotport. 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 





GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Feb. 9, 1884. 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. in any vacant spaces between Rhododendrons, 
- Kalmias, or Azaleas, for as these shrubs 

Glasshouses. flower early in the season, they are compara- 

W IIeke the different soils have been properly tively bare and uninteresting in autumn, unless 
aerated, the potting of stove plants should now provision is made to supply floral beauty by 
be commenced in earnest. Epiphyllums done means of the bulbs just named. Lilium auratum 
flowering should receive a slight pruning, which and similiar varieties, and Gladioli of various 
will induce them to break freely. Any plants kinds are quite at home in such positions ; in 
of Eucharis that have recently bloomed, and fact, the shelter afforded them in their early 
which have overstocked their pots with bulbs, stages of growth more than compensates for any 
should now be shaken out and the bulbs overcrowding at the root to which they may be 
separated. These should be repotted into good- subjected, as they both flourish under similar 
sized pots, placing eight or ten bulbs into each conditions, and the bulbs will yield a fine dis¬ 
pot, and the pots should be plunged in a mode- piny °f flowers in autumn, which, when backed 
rate bottom-heat, which will materially assist in by the deep green foliage of the Rhododendrons, 
giving them a good start. Gloxinias, Achimenes, will repay the small amount of labour necessary 
Caladiums, and Gesneras should now be started. f° carry this useful branch of gardening into 
As soon as the Gesneras begin to develop their effect. 

foliage, they should be removed to a shelf or pit, Auriculas —Now that the weather is favour- 
wbere they can be kept free from being syringed able, the surface dressing of these plants should 
overhead, as this quickly disfigures their foliage, be seen to without delay. It will be necessary 
One of the most useful spring-flowering stove to see that the glass is kept clean ; mats or other 
plants is Gloneria jasminiflora. This is now coverings become dirty, and so does the glass, 
showing its trusses of bloom, and will be assisted When air is admitted, tilt the lights on the side 
with a little clear soot water. opposite that from which the wind is blowing; 

Ferns —The stronger-growing kinds should after the plants start into growth they are in- 
now be taken in hand for repotting and propa- jured by cold winds blowing directly upon them, 
gation it more stock is required. Varieties See that all plants that have become dry at the 
having creeping rhizomes can now be parted roots during the winter have a thorough soaking 
with safety, and a large stock may quickly be of water, and afterthis they must not beallowed 
worked up. The Gleichenias will require the to become very dry. In every collection there 
greatest care in parting them, as it is useless to will be a number of small plants; these must be 
cut them up in small pieces and expect to esta- repotted when the larger specimens are surface 
blish them. In propagating these the best plan dressed. They ought not to have a large shift; 
is to place a few pots round an established it is much easier to err on the side of over than 
plant, and on these the rhizomes can be pegged under pottiDg. The offsets ought also to 
till established. Seedlings make the best plants, be removed when the plants are surface dressed, 
hut spores are not so free in germinating as Pot choice sorts singly in very small pots, and 
those of most kinds of Ferns. Those who desire the more common varieties six or eight offsets 
to raise Gleichenias from spores should sow in a 0-inch pot. If the pots are plunged in 
them on nodules of clay, and not submit the Cocoa-nut fibre refuse under a close hand-glass, 
seed-pan to more than an intermediate tempera- they require but little attention, seldom needing 
ture. I have seen many seedlings of G. Speluncm, any water. 

G hecistophylla, and G. dicarpa raised in this Hollyhocks —Continue to propagate as pre- 
way. The old fronds will now begin to discolour, v j OUB ]y recommended, until stock enough has 
and must be gradually removed as young ones j,een obtained. Plants that have been obtained 
develop. The temperature of Ferneries may now f rom cu ttings last season should now be potted 
he slightly raised, and more moisture maintained ; ato i ar g er pots, and this ought to be done 
in the atmosphere. before the roots have been too much confined. 

Greenhouse plants. —Autumn-blooming Look over the old stools in cold frames, and re¬ 
kinds of greenhouse plants, Buch as Cassia, move dead leaves, give air freely, removing the 
Witsenia, Habrothamnus, Ophiopogon, Ac., should lights entirely on fine days. Pansies that have 
be got into free growth as early in the season as been wintered in 3-in. pots and have not been 
possible. These should now receive liberal shifts, repotted should be seen to at once. The stems 
and be placed in the warmest positions in the are generally very long, and in that case they 
house. Cytisuses, Coronillas, and Correas going should be pegged down to the surface of the 
ont of flower should now be trimmed into shape, 80 il in the pots. We have wintered our entire 
and should receive a thorough cleansing with the collection in pots and boxes this year, and when 
syringe. The different varieties of Agave, the weather is favourable the plants will be put 
Yucca, Draciena, and other fine-foliaged plants, out into beds in rich well-worked soil. Surface- 
should be placed in favourable positions for dress Polyanthuses in pots in the same way as 
their development. Aspidistra lurida variegata has been already recommended in the case of 
should now be divided; it is one of the most Auriculas ; those in beds should also have a 
useful room plants grown, as it stands dust and surface dressing consisting of equal parts cow 
dry atmosphere better than most plants. Another manure and good loam free from wireworm, 
sowing of Mignonette and other annuals may (lover the stems up to the point where young 
now be made, including among the latter Cen- roots are being emitted. If the weather should 
taurea Cyanus minor, which will yield a quantity continue favourable, let Ranunculuses be planted 
of flowers early in the summer. ou t in the beds previously prepared for them. 

Flower Garden. The surface should be level and a trifle higher 

Pansies and Violas make beautiful beds than the alleys between. In the soil, which 
either in distinct colours or mixed, and in the should be loose, make a drill exactly 2 in. deep, 
latter case, if seeds are sown at once, they will and plant each small tuber so that the crown 
produce good plants for a late display. Both is H in. below the surface when the ground is 
Pansies and Violas delight in a moist, rich, deep made level. The rows should be 6 in. apart, 
soil, cow or sheep manure being especially suit- and the tubers 4 in. or 6 in. asunder in the 
able for them, and when liberally supplied with rows. 

proper food few plants make a display for so Fruit, 

lengthened a period as they do. Carnations, Thin Grapes as soon as they are large enough; 
Picotees, Cloves, and Pinks, also make beautiful thin and stop Bhoots also, and regulate growth 
bed or border plants, and Pinks, when well es- generally. Tie np to the wires such Vines as are 
tablished, make excellent edging plants even intended soon to be started, but leave undis- 
without bloom, as their leaves are of a pleasing turbed such as are to be permitted to come 
tint when seen in a mass. naturally into growth. Sprinkle plenty of water 

Delphiniums, such as D. formosum, make on the paths and on other bare surfaces, in order 
striking beds and backgrounds for mixed to maintain a moist atmosphere. Cucumbers 
borders, and the Columbines, such as Aquilegia an< l Melons sown last month will now be 
coerulea, are likewise extremely attractive as sufficiently strong for planting out. Keep up for 
well as useful for furnishing cut flowers The them a steady bottom-heat, either by means of 
mixed or herbaceous border is a useful addition hot water or fermenting material, and water 
to any flower garden, providing as it does a them with tepid water. Sow a few more seeds 
home for plants that do not conform to training, for a later crop. 

and if judiciously planted always contains some- Hardy FRUIT. —All arrears in pruning and 
thing that is interesting. Such borders should nailing may now be brought to an end. Peaches 
now be re-arranged, dividing the plants that and Nectarines should, however, be kept drawn 
are getting too large, and filling up vacancies away from the walls until the buds become 
with new varieties. Plant Lilies and Gladioli prominent, but not so mnch so as to render 


them liable to injury under the operation of 
rearrangement. These and Morello Cherries 
are generally left until last, and being 60 
liable to the attacks of green and black fly, the 
washing of the wood with a solution of Giahuret 
compound should be completed forthwith. The 
time is now approaching for placing some kind 
of protection over Apricots during the time 
they are in flower. In low-lying gardens it is the 
practice with some to retard the opening of the 
blossoms by letting down some kind of covering 
during bright Bunshine, but judgment is re¬ 
quired, as an excess of shade makes the flowers 
tender. Whatever material is used, it should be 
arranged for removal from the front of the trees 
in mild weather. A very good protection may 
be secured hy placing broad projecting boards 
on the coping stones, and dropping therefrom 
two ormore folds of fishingnet, which may be kept 
clear of the trees by means of light poles planted 
in the ground 3 feet from the base of the wall. 
Materials of this kind do not impede light and air, 
are easily fixed, and do no injury to the trees. 
The best of all protectors are narrow glass lights 
in lieu of boards, which should be ready for put¬ 
ting up when the first flower opens, but on no 
account should they be allowed to remain over the 
trees after danger from frost has passed away. 
If the pruning of Gooseberries, owing to the 
depredations of birds, has been deferred, it may¬ 
be completed at once, and the trees may be 
dusted over with soot and lime, or, better still, 
they may be syringed with a thin wash of the 
same previously passed through a fine seive to 
secure freedom from impediments to the use of 
the syringe. If fruit trees intended for grafting 
have not been headed back, lose no time in the 
removal of the branches. Take off grafts and 
keep them in a cool, shady place. 

Vegetables. 

With the exception of a few second early Peas 
Broad Beans, Carrots, Lettuces, and Radishes, 
the sowing of all else—no matter how favourable 
the weather may become — would be best 
deferred another fortnight; but to relieve the 
pressure of work at seed sowing time, all trans¬ 
planting operations may be proceeded with now 
as opportunity offers and weather permits. The 
following are some of the operations which it 
will be desirable to get off hand forthwith :— 
Remove the mulching from Globe Artichokes, 
and make good blanks with offsets from the 
larger stools, after which deeply dig and manure 
the ground. If new plantations are to be made, 
deep tilth is indi^ensable, and the plants 
should be from 4 feet to 6 feet apart, according 
to the nature of the soil. Jerusalem Artichokes 
are amenable to mnch the same treatment, and 
the sooner they are planted the better. A deep 
sandy soil gives produce of the higest quality, 
and to soils of an opposite character coal ashes 
can scarcely be used too liberally in order to 
ensure clean tubers of good quality. 

Dig and manure ground for Rhubarb, and 
make good blanks; new plantations should be 
made by planting single crowns only, and though 
the produce by the antumn will be usable, none 
shonld be pulled the first season, as such a check 
hinders its full development the following year. 
The roots that have been lifted for forcing this 
season, if planted early, make good plantations 
for open-air produce next year, subject of oourse 
to the conditions before named. 

Lift all Asparagns roots intended to be forced 
this season; the remaining plantations shonld 
then be very lightly painted over, in order to 
break down the winter’s mulching, and incor¬ 
porate it with the soil. A good dressing of salt 
at this season would prove very beneficial, ex¬ 
cept where the soil is of a tenacious character; 
and if applied to all such soils, it should be in 
dry weather only. Where new plantations are 
in contemplation, if the ground has not already 
been prepared, it should be done at once by 
trenching as deeply as the nature of the soil 
admits of, and working in an abundant supply 
of manure in layers between each layer of soil 

Planting should not be done till the plants 
have pushed through the soil, which, at the 
earliest, will probably not be till April. When 
planting, the ground should be formed into 
shallow ridges, and the lines for the plants 
shonld be formed in the hollow, 3 feet apart and 
2 feet plant from plant; they should be covered 
to a depth of 4 inches, and as growth progresses 
the ridges should be gradually levelled over the 
roots. The space between the plants may to 
some seem unreasonably great, but with the cnl- 


)igitized by 


Google 


UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Feb. 9 , 1884 .] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


561 


tnre here recommended such will not be found 
to be the case in the second year of growth, 
and though the practice is not to be commended, 
the space between the rows may the first season 
be utilised for a crop of Lettuces or Radishes. 
In order that the ground may be prepared for 
other crops, Parsnips should now be dug up 
and layered in sand in a cool shed. Celery may 
also be dng up and heeled in thickly at the foot 
of a north wall, and the ground may be trenched 
Tor the main crop of Peas or Potatoes. Plant 
out August-sown Onions, and fill up gaps in the 
autumn-planted Cabbage plots. In the forcing 
department see that supplies are kept up by 
methodically introducing fresh relays of forcing 
roots. Sow successional lots of Radishes, and 
Lettuces, Celery, Cauliflower, Coleworts, and 
llrussels Sprouts, if not yet sown, should have 
immediate attention, and any of these ready to 
prick ont should be done before the roots get 
matted together. Cauliflower plants in pits and 
hand-lights should have full exposure in mild 
weather, and forcing pits containing Potatoes, 
Asparagus, Carrots, Radishes, &c., should be 
afforded abundance of air whenever the weather 
is favourable. 


10935.— Lily of the Valley.— The position 
you have chosen is too hot and dry. The native 
habitat of the plant is moist valleys or woods, in 
partial shade. They will grow in almost any 
kind of soil if planted in a moist shady place, 
and the plants will do well in the same place 
for a quarter of a century without suffering any 
diminution of vigour. A thin dressing of a com¬ 
post comprising equal parts loam and old manure 
should be placed over the crowns annually. I 
knew a gardener who grew a set of plants for 
thirty years in the same pots without repotting 
them, and they never failed to flower annually. 
—J. D. E, 


ROSES. 

THE BOSE ELECTION, 1883. 

10936.—This was restricted to the later intro¬ 
ductions, and should be of value to those 
who can only limit themselves to a few of the 
newer Roses. There were 30 voters, viz., 20 
amateurs and 10 nurserymen. The Roses to be 
named in this election were all to have been 
introduced iu 1877 or subsequent years. Of 
the thirty-six varieties tabulated, 5 date from 
1877; 8 from 1878; 7 from 1879; 6 from 1880; 
7 from 1881; and 1 from 1882, this being 
Merveille de Lyon, likely to become very 
useful when more known. Of course, in this 
election, the Roses introduced first had the 
better chance, being more generally appreciated, 
bnt possibly some of the newer and later sorts 
may be equally appreciated when there has 
been more time for proper trial to be made of 
their qualities. The list is as follows:— 


No. 

Name of Rose. 


Year In¬ 
troduced. 

No. of 
Votes. 

1 

Alfred K. Williams 


1877 . 

30 

2 

Madame Gabriel Luizet 


1877 . 

30 

3 

Countess of Rosebery 


1879 . 

30 

4 

Duchess of Bedford 


1879 . 

29 

5 

Duke of Teck 


1880 . 

28 

6 

Madame Marie Verdier 


1877 . 

25 

7 

Harrison Weir 


1879 . 

25 

8 

Charles Darwin . . 


1879 . 

24 

9 

Pride of Waltham . 


1881 . 

24 

10 

Mrs. Jowitt. . 


1880 . 

22 

11 

Madame Lambard . 


. 1877 . 

20 

12 

Violetta Bowyer . . 


1881 . 

19 

13 

Mrs. Laxton . 


1878 . 

19 

14 

Innocente Pirola . . 


1878 . 

18 

15 

Etoile de Lyon 


1881 . 

18 

16 

Madame E. Verdler 


. 1881 . 

17 

17 

Ulrich Brunner . . 


. 1881 . 

17 

18 

Catherine Soupert. . 


. 1879 . 

16 

19 

Madame Isaac Periere 


. 1880 . 

15 

20 

Egeria. 


. 1878 . 

14 

21 

Lady Sheffield 


. 1881 . 

13 

22 

Rosier!ste Jacobs. . 


1880 . 

12 

23 

Helen Paul. . 


. 1881 . 

11 

24 

Merveille de Lyon. . 


. 1882 . 

10 

26 

Madame Ducher .. 


. 1879 . 

9 

26 

May Quennell 


. 1878 . 

8 

27 

Constantin Fretiakoff 


. 1877 . 

8 

28 

Mrs. H. Turner . . 


. 1880 . 

8 

29 

Madame Welch . . 


. 1878 . 

8 

30 

William Warden . . 


. 1878 . 

8 

31 

Madame A. Jacquier 


. 1879 . 

8 

32 

Mary Pochin 


. 1880 . 

7 

33 

George Baker 


. 1881 . 

7 

34 

Barthelemy Joubert 


. — 

6 

35 

Souvenir de V. Verdier 


. 1878 . 

6 

36 

Alfred Dumesnil . . 



. 6 


There were in all ninety-six Roses nominated 
by the thirty electors. Lady Mary Fitzwilliam 
(1882) was named four (imps, and this Rose, a 
Hybrid Tea, is likely tofbe a good aldkiin. * 
Besides the newer varieties as ''exhibition 


flowers, an election of Roses as garden flowers 
was also carried out with the following result as 
to the best 30:— 


1 Globe de Dijon .. 25 

2 La France .. .. 23 

S Jules Margottin .. 19 

4 General Jacqueminot 19 

5 Souvenir de la Mai* 

malson .. ..19 

6 Cheshuut Ilybrid .. 10 

7 Bottle de Nelge .. 16 

8 Duke of Edinburgh.. 15 

9 John Hopper.. .. 15 

10 DupuyJamain .. 14 

11 Dr. Andry .. ..12 

12 Celine Foreatler .. 12 

13 Marie Baumann .. 11 

14 Alfred Colomb .. 11 
16 Mdme. Victor Verdler 11 
10 Charles Lefebvre .. 11 


17 Mar. de Castellane .. 11 
IS llaroune de Roth¬ 
schild .. ..10 

19 Scnatsur de Valsse.. 10 

20 Prince Camille de 

Rohan .. ..10 

21 Mrs. Bosanquet .. 9 

22 Fisher Holmes .. 9 

23 Homere .. ..9 

24 Charles Lawson .. 9 

25 Common Moss .. S 

, Besuty of Waltham 7 
- Princess Louise Yic- 

( toria .. .. 7 

28 Marie van Uoutte .. 7 

29 Duke of Connaught.. 7 

30 Houquet d'Or .. 0 


It must give intense satisfaction to all lovers 
of the Rose to see old Gloire de Dijon at the 
head of the poll. For all garden purposes it 
has no equal, blooming early and late, very 
hardy, has grand foliage, and is most useful in 
any situation. 

As to A. K. Williams, certainly about here we 
find it delicate, and a doubtful grower ; its con¬ 
stitution, at present, is not of the strongest, but 
this may improve. The blooms, when at their 
best, are of course snperb in shape and colour, 
but last season I had not much success with 
this Rose. My plants at present, however, look 
promising for the coming season, except that, 
being very excitable, they are much too forward, 
and I fear the effect upon them of bad weather, 
which we are sure to have later on. Of the new 
Roses, I should give the first place to Duchess of 
Bedford, a really grand Rose in every way ; and 
then I would place Countess of Rosebery, one 
of the hardiest and most useful Roses we hk*e. 
Madame Gabriel Luizet is very fine, but I cannot 
call it Perpetual. It is, nevertheless, a great 
favourite, and will remain so. Duke of Teck 
is bright in colour, but thin. The new Rose (Lord 
B\ Cavendish) sent out this year by Mr. Ily. 
Frettingham, of Beeston, near Nottingham, will 
be found still brighter in colour. Madame Isaac 
Peri&re will be a great favourite, and most 
useful as a pillar Rose. Amongst the new Teas, 
how lovely are Madame Lambard, Innooente 
Pirola, and Madame Welch. The former, too, is 
fairly hardy, and useful out of doors. I must 
close these few hasty remarks. Before doing so, 
however, I must say how indebted we all are.to 
Mr. Joseph Hinton, of Warminster, who so 
kindly conducts these Rose elections. It must 
be a very tedious business, but jet a labour of 
love to further the interest of the queen of 
flowers. To those desirous of learning further 
particulars of these elections, I would say, obtain 
the “ Rusarians’ Year Book ” for this and past 
years, which, in addition to giving this informa¬ 
tion, tells the history of the shows, the weather, 
and provides much instruction as to Roses gene¬ 
rally. The price is one shilling, and it is con¬ 
ducted by the Rev. H. H. D’Ombrain, the inde¬ 
fatigable joint-secretary of the National Rose 
Society. All lovers of the Rose should take in 
this useful and official record for the year. It 
will be seen that, in making up these remarks, I 
have ventured to avail myself of Mr. Hinton’s 
paper to a large extent, bnt I know he will for¬ 
give me. William Walters. 

Burton-on- IVent. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


Propagating hardy Azaleas.— The 
common hardy Azaleas may be propagated from 
seed, bnt the usual custom is to layer those 
varieties which it is desired to perpetuate. For 
this purpose the young clean shoots which spring 
from [the base of the plant are bent down into 
the soil, nicking the wood with a sharp knife, 
and keeping the shoots in place by means of a 
stout peg. During the summer, shoots are 
emitted, and the plant is removed from the 
parent stem in the autumn. Seed should be 
sown in March in well-drained pans of fibrous 
peat, placing them in a cold frame. Cover the 
seed very thinly, and place a pane of glass and 
a piece of paper on the pot; keep the soil moist, 
bnt do not water heavily. As the seedlings 
appear, gradually expose them to the external 
atmosphere, and finally place them where, 
towards the latter end of the summer and 
autumn, they get the full benefit of sun and air. 
Winter them in a cool frame, and plant out the 
following March in well-prepared soil. I have 


omitted to mention that as soon as the seedlings 
are large enough to handle they should be 
pricked out into other receptacles, keepingthem 
rather close until they have struck fresh roots. 
When planted out they should be well watered 
during the first year in dry weather.—J. 

Planting Holly hedges.— Hollies suc¬ 
ceed best when moved in April or May, and dull 
weather, if possible, should be chosen for the 
operation. August and September are also 
favourable months for transplanting Hollies. 
The ground intended for the line of hedge 
should be trenched from 18 in. to 21 in. deep, 
and from 3 ft. to 4 ft. wide, turning ont bad 
subsoil and stones, and replacing them with rich 
soil or fibry turf well chopped np and inter¬ 
mixed with the original soil in the line of fence. 
The plants should be from 12 in. to 18 in. high, 
bushy and well rooted, and planted just clear 
of one another. Of course smaller plants will 
succeed equally well and cost less money, but a 
longer time must elapse before the hedge will 
be a sufficient fence against cattle, fas. If the 
weather and soil be dry when planting, wash the 
soil in amongst the fibres with a liberal soaking 
of water; finish off the planting by adding a 
thick layer of litter, Bracken, or any rough 
herbage over the roots; this will prove a sure 
safeguard should a dry summer follow after 
planting. All the attention that is necessary 
for two or three years is to keep down weed 
growth about the necks of the plants. When 
the latter have become fairly established, and 
have made vigorous growth, their sides may 
be slightly trimmed, encouraging a broad base 
and narrow wedge-like top. Holly hedges 
should not be topped until they have attained 
the desired height necessary to form the desired 
fence. 

Propagating Ivy.— Ivies naturally layer 
themselves as they trail along the ground, and, 
in that case, all that is needed is to cut the 
runner across with a spade, lift it carefully with 
its rootlets attached, and transfer it to its new 
situation. In layering Ivies artificially, select 
good shoots, stretch them out on the ground, 
place small pots under their joints at intervals 
of about 15 in. or 18 in. apart, cut the joints 
half-way through and in a longitudinal direc¬ 
tion for about ]jn. ; then peg these joints into 
the pots, which"should befilled with a sandy com¬ 
post placing some sand about the incision, and 
cover the joints over with the ordinary soil to 
the depth of 1 in. or 2 in. By doing this early 
in the spring, and pinching ont the point of the 
shoot after it begins to grow, layers thus treated 
will be found to be pretty well rooted by 
autumn, when they may be separated, and 
wintered in frames if badly rooted, but if well 
rooted, a sheltered place outside will suit them. 
When very badly rooted they may be left uncut 
till spring. Ivy may also be layered in the ordi¬ 
nary way without the aid of pots. 


HOUSE AND WINDOW GARDENING. 

Soil for window boxes.— In preparing 
a window box for filling with soil, put a good 
large flat crock or piece of broken tile over each 
hole, and then cover the bottom with about 
] J inches of crocks, bricks broken small, or 
ballast; on this a layer of old spent Hops, or 
littery half-decayed manure, and fill np with 
soil. The best soil for this purpose is two parts 
of good fibrous loam or decayed turf, aud one 
part each of leaf-mould and well-rotted manure, 
with a little crashed charcoal and sand added. 
But any good garden soil will do if not too fine 
or rubbishy, mixed with a good proportion of 
old decayed manure; the leaf soil is not 
absolutely necessary, but have fresh country soil 
if you can get it. Make the soil pretty firm, 
especially at the bottom, and set the plants out. 
the smallest in front (outside) and the taller 
ones behind. Give a good watering to settle the 
soil, and the box is complete. 

Winter vases. —I have been so glad 
myself of bints in Gardening, that I thought 
I would mention how useful the scarlet seed-pods 
of Iris foetidissima are for vases in winter. It 
grows wild in the south, but I never see any in 
the north. I brought some plants with me, and 
they are doing well, and the bright seeds 
arranged with the dark green leaves look so well 
in vases against the wall, and last some months. 
Also, pets of variegated Aspidistra lurida, with 
1 Pteris trends Fern in it, look pretty.—I,. A. N 





562 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Fbb. 9 1884 


FRUIT. 

HOW TO GROW RASPBERRIES. 

Owing to the number of gardening journals, 
and the immense variety of subjects treated of 
in each, one finds it difficult to think of any¬ 
thing new to say on any branch of gardening, 
and of fruit culture in particular. Not that I 
think for a moment that perfection of culture of 
any plant or fruit has yet been attained, bat 
what I mean is some mode of writing on a sub¬ 
ject that shall not be a repetition of anything 
that has been previously written, and yet shall 
tend to advance the culture of whatever is being 
written about. To my mind, the only way of 
ensuring this is to record only one's own 
practice, but not to be so full of self as not to 
read and appropriate hints, &c., given by others, 
even on subjects that possibly we think we know 
sufficient about. Applying this rule to Rasp¬ 
berry culture as practised by myself, I have to 
say that a deep loamy 

Soil inclining to clay is best, but it should be 
well drained, for though the plant luxuriates in 
a cool soil, anything like stagnation or sourness 
ii soon perceived by weak and badly matured 
canes. This description of soil being the best, 
it follows that the various descriptions of soils 
that have to be made available for their growth 
must be treated from this standpoint, which 
means that sandy and gravelly soils should 
have an addition of clay, or, lacking this, a 
greater quantity of well decayed manure, and be 
made firm by rolling or treading; on the other 
hand, clay and soils of a tenacious nature should 
have a liberal quantity of old mortar rubble, 
charcoal, or burnt soil intermixed, and if manure 
at all be used when trenching, it should be in 
the form of half-inch bones, a manure that in 
such soils will last for years. 

Planting. —Early in November it the best 
time, as then the plants get a firm hold of the 
soil before there is any danger of dronght, from 
which they suffer if planting be delayed till 
February or March. Position and distance apart 
of plants must to some extent be regulated by 
numbers of other small fruits that have to be 
grown in kitchen gardens, and modes of cropping 
the same. I find the best aspect and form of 
growing them to be in straight lines running 
from north to south, the said Tines being ar¬ 
ranged as divisional lines for forming the prin¬ 
cipal quarters of the kitchen garden into 
convenient portions for cropping. By this 
arrangement the plants take up but little space, 
as cropping can be done within a yard of the 
stems, and if this space be annually re-covered 
with a thick layer of stable Utter, as it should 
be, by way of mulching to the roots, it forms a 
convenient alley each side of the row forgetting 
at the vegetable crops. The distance from plant 
to plant in the row should be 15 inches, and the 
mode of 

Training be to strained wires, fixed to stout 
poles, say about 8 feet long, which should be 
driven into the ground 3 feet; this will leave 5 
feet for the height of the topmost wire, which 
should be secured to the poles by small staples; 
three other wires equidistant, beginning at 
2 feet from the ground, make a most perfect 
fence, the canes to by tied either in upright or 
in oblique form to the wires with matting or 
yellow Willow. This latter form is generally 
adopted where there is a tendency to over-luxu¬ 
riance in growth, and doubtless does to some 
extent cheek the current of the sap, and tends 
to the production of better lateral shoots, par¬ 
ticularly at the lower half of the canes. The 
bundling together of innumerable canes to a 
single polo, under the impression that time is 
saved by using sneh supports, is a mistake; the 
plan here recommended is carried out just as 
quickly, and finer fruit and more of it is a cer¬ 
tainty, in addition to the ease with which it can 
be protected from birds. 

Varieties. —These are not nnmerons, and 
thero is such a sameness about most of the kinds 
that if they were weeded down to about four 
sorts no one would be the pjorer for the reduc¬ 
tion. The best for general culture are Fastolf 
and the old Red Antwerp, and the best autumn 
bearer ia Belle de Fontenay. The canes of this 
latter variety, and of all autumn fruiters, 
should bo closely cut down at the winter prun¬ 
ing, and as soon as the new growths have at¬ 
tained a foot in height, the weakest should be 


thinned out till the canes that are left .have at 
least 9 inches clear space each. 

General culture. —Surface dressings of 
manure are of first importance, and application 
twice a year is not too much. viz., of good 
rotten manure in autumn, and a supplementary 
addition of long stable litter in spring to Berve 
both as a mulching and a path; no watering 
will then be needed, even in the driest weather, 
and the plantation will continue in a productive 
state for several years. The first symptoms of a 
change of ground being needed will be seen in the 
production of smaller fruit and weakly canes of 
a blackish green colour; when these appear, 
make new plantations at once. Digging imme¬ 
diately over the roots is very injurious, and 
should never be resorted to, except to remove 
Couch Grass and other troublesome weeds or 
portions of roots that have formed suckers a 
long way from the original stools. In pruning, 
if the cones are well ripened, they may be left 
almost full length, that is, if there is plenty of 
training space; or they may be cut to such length 
as there is to be filled, but bear in mind that to 
overcrowd them with the expectation of getting 
a greater quantity of fruit will tend in the 
opposite direction.—W. W. 


PRUNING. 

10875..—The best way, perhaps, to explain the 
difference between the restrictive and the exten¬ 
sion system of pruning will be to consider them 
in reference to standard fruit tree culture. Here 
the widest divergence between the two systems 
obtains ; here exists the distinctive characteristic 
of the restrictive method, and here also the 
follower of the extension system can carry out 
its principle in its greatest entirety. The 
restrictive method (in the division of fruit 
culture under consideration), as taught and 
practised by Mr. Rivers, consists of the pinching 
in of the young shoots in summer, pruning them 
back in winter, with occasional corrective root 
pruning; whilst in the extension system, as 
inaugurated by Mr. Simpson, there is no6ummer 
pinching, and no more winter pruning than is 
necessary to secure a good form to (lie tree—to 
remove overcrowded shoots and those that are 
misplaced or cross each other. The first-mentioned 
system aims at securing fruitfulness by pinching 
and pruning of the shoots, together with root 
pruning; the latter, as far as ia compatible witli 
the afore-mentioned conditions, seeks to obtain 
the same end by allowing of the free extension 
of its parts. Fruit culture under the former 
system is only adapted for the miniature garden. 
Here the amateur might amuse himself with his 
pioching8 and primings. The adopter of the 
miniature system has one advantage. If he gets 
his trees of the nurseryman of the proper size, 
they will most of them bear fruit the next year 
after planting, as the removal acts like a severe 
loot pruning, but how long afterwards they will 
retain their fruitfulness depends upon the treat¬ 
ment they receive, and nponother circumstances. 
But if fruit culture is ever to become a profit¬ 
able investment to the English farmer, he must 
not resort to the restrictive method. About 
fifteen years ago a gentleman bought an 
establishment and made it his residence, a few 
miles from where I reside. His gardener 
was a great advocate of the restrictive 
system. The gentleman ordered from Mr. 
Rivers a collection of pyramidal fruit trees, 
as near as I could guess about 100 in number. 
Some were planted in the borders in the kitchen 
garden, the others were made a plantation of in 
another place. In the kitchen garden were two 
old healthy looking apple trees. One was a 
Keswick Codlin, the other a local variety. Two 
years ago the present gardener told me he got a 
much larger crop of apples from these two trees 
than he did from all the pyramidal trees on the 
establishment. The pyramidal trees were 
duly attended to after the orthodox plan of the 
system, but the two old trees never had any 
other attention paid them than to yearly relieve 
them of their load of fruit. These old trees had 
flourished under the auspices of the "Let alone 
system,” pure and simple. In the Keswick 
Codlin the branches were greatly crowded, whilst 
the local variety had a very ungainly habit, and 
the branches were nearly borne to the ground 
with their load of fruit. These defects would 
have been remedied if they bad been pruned in 
accordance with Mr. Simpson’s teaching. From 
I the foregoing I think it will appear evident that 


if hardy fruit culture is in this country to become 
a profitable branch of industry, it must be by 
adopting the extension mode of culture. The 
trees should be on the free stock, when, with 
comparatively unrestricted growth, they would 
soon attain to a large size. They should be 
selected from the best bearing varieties (which 
include also the best in other respects in culti¬ 
vation), and of these should be only retained 
those that are found to be suitable to the soil in 
each case. Tne soil should be deeply trenched, 
and drained and manured where required. If 
natural shelter does not exist, it should be secured 
by surrounding the plantation by quick growing 
trees.—L. C. K. 


Freeing Orchards from Moss.—An 
effectual plan of freeing orchard trees from 
Lichen is to burn sulphur under them; the 
fumes will kill all vegetable growth and also 
insects, and cause the bark to become bright 
looking and polished. The way to use the sul¬ 
phur is to have some old cracked garden flower 
pots, or anything of that kind that will hold fire, 
which should be made with charcoal, so as to 
keep burning steadily; on this throw a handful 
of sulphur every few minutes, and keep the 
pots moved from tree to tree, placing them on 
the side from which the draught sets in that the 
smoke may be carried right through the tops. 
The best time to apply the sulphur is during a 
still day when the air is heavy. Of coune it 
will not do to burn sulphur after the buds are in 
a forward state, as then it would injure them ; 
but so loDg as they remain closed in their scaly 
coverings they are safe, and the sulphur fumes 
will not do the least harm. We have been using 
them against our walls, and not only have they 
cleaned the trees, but the bricks are completely 
freed from all moss, and have quite a new look. 
Fears and Plums that had scale on them throw 
it off, and since we have fnmigated Peaches and 
Cherries outside, we have little or no trouble 
with either aphis or spider, and the saving in in¬ 
secticides, time, and labour is something con¬ 
siderable. Sulphur may be got in any quantity at 
3d. per pound, and a man or boy with several pots 
to attend to can soon get over a number of trees. 
I have no doubt that the asphyxiators adver¬ 
tised so extensively some time ago for driving 
rats, &c , out of their holes, would answer for 
smoking trees, as the fumes of the sulphur 
could, with one of them, be more concentrated 
and driven wherever required. I am going to 
use a common fumigator with bellows for our 
standard Rose stems, as they are mossy, and a 
puff or two from it will at once put them right. 
Lime is also a good thing for eradicating Lichens 
and Moss from trees, but to be thoroughly 
effectual, it must be got quite fresh, and then 
slaked in a tub with water, when it may be 
Byringed on, if made to the consistency of thin 
paint, in which state it will adhere tightly and 
cover the branches. Borides being so highly 
beneficial to trees and bushes by destroying the 
Moss, lime keeps off sparrows and bullfinches 
from the buds, which they cannot eat when so 
coated, but which they often, when not pro¬ 
tected, peck out and leave the trees bare. This 
is almost sure to be the case near towns or 
farmhouses, where sparrows abound, and I have 
in such places seen bnsbes of Gooseberries and 
Cnrrants quite spoiled.—S. 

Fruit trees in hedges.—In some por¬ 
tions of Kent, notably at Cuxton and Bush, near 
Rochester, many of the hedgerows are planted 
at short intervals apart with Damsons, which 
thrive luxuriantly, and produce heavy crops of 
this desirable fruit. Many of the cottagers in 
the above named districts make sufficient from 
the Damsons cultivated in this way to pay the 
rent of their house and garden. In planting 
new hedges, tho trees may be very easily intro¬ 
duced ; they should be planted about 10 yards 
apart for Damsons and 12 yards for cider Apples. 
Wherever the Damson will succeed preference 
should be given to it, as the Quickset will thrive 
better under it than under the Apple, and there 
are very few stone fruits which are more in de¬ 
mand or more profitable than Damsons. A moBt 
excellent hedge may be formed by planting the 
Cherry Plum (Prunus Myrobalana). It will suc¬ 
ceed in almost any soil, grows quickly, is 
perfectly hardy, and thoroughly proof against 
cattle. It is a most suitable stock for budding 
or grafting Damsons and many varieties of 
Plums upon, so that by using Uris for a hedge, 



Fe«. 9, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


663 



the owner has only to have Damsons budded or 
grafted upon it at whatever distance apart he 
may think proper, and await the result, which 
will far exceed his expectations.—F. H. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


CULTURE OF CORREAS. 

Thebe belong to what are known as hard-wooded 
New Holland plants. They are comparatively 
little grown now-a-days, but they were at one 
time to be found in every good greenhouse. They 
are not difficult to cul¬ 
tivate, and they yield a 
profusion of Fuchsia-like 
blossoms during the 
dullest months of the 
year. Correas do best 
when grafted on the 
old Correa alba. From 
August to the end of 
October is the time for 
grafting these plants, 
using for stocks plante 
about eighteen months 
old, and for scions 
healthy young pieces. 

Side-grafting low down, 
with the top of the stock 
left on till the graft is 
united and growing, will 
be found to answer best. 

A frame in which the 
temperature is about 60° 
and moist will suit the 
grafts, which in about 
Bix weeks ought to be 
united and ready for har¬ 
dening off, after which 
a winter temperature 
of about 45° to 60° 
will answer perfectly. 

In April they may be 
potted on, using soil con¬ 
sisting of two parts peat, 
the other equal quanti¬ 
ties of loam and leaf- 
mould, and plenty of 
sand. A growing tem¬ 
perature of about 65°, 
with sunshine, will be 
suitable, increasing it 
as the summer advances 
till the end of June, by 
which time, if attention 
has been paid to pinch¬ 
ing, the plants ought to 
have become useful little 
bushes, and may be 
gradually inured to an 
out - of - door situation. 

Winter them in a tem¬ 
perature of from 40° to 
45°, and keep the atmos¬ 
phere as dry as possible, 
or Correas will suffer 
from damp. In April the 
■boots may be shortened 
in a little, and the 
plants potted in a mix¬ 
ture of peat, loam, leaf- 
mould, and subjected 
to the same treatment as 
that during the previous 
summer. If judiciously 
pinched when young, 
they will be found to 
require very little sup¬ 
port from stakes, one in 
the centre being all they need for the first three 
or four years. Scale infests Correas, and may 
be destroyed by dipping them in strong Tobacco 
water, and by giving them heavy syringing. 


STANDARD FUCHSIAS. 
Doubtless the maximum amount of utility and 
beauty of which the Fuchsia is susceptible may 
be best obtained by planting it out, and training 
it in single rods along the bars or rafters of plant 
houses, spur-pruning close in annually, vine 
fashion, while as a pot plant the most beautiful 
form it can be made to assume is certainly the 
not-too-formal pyramid. Still, standards have 
their uses, and well grown with handsome heads 
on stems varying in height, they are especially 
suitable for the embellishnfent of lef.y cetMrv* 


shoots thus left must also be pinched above each 
pair of leaves until a sufficient number has 
been obtained to form a symmetrical head. The 
same plants may be grown many years in suc- 
succession by cutting the old wood well back, and 
shaking out and repotting in the same size pot 
each spring. Old dwarf plants also having 
straight stems may be easily in one season con¬ 
verted into very good standards by trimming up 
the stems; when they break, train up the 
strongest upright shoot, and remove all others. It 
is important that the supporting stake be strong 
and sound at the bottom, as should that give 
way, the weight of the 
falling head will in¬ 
stantly Bnap the stem.— 
A. M. 


Renovating Camel¬ 
lias.—It Is not one of 
the easiest matters to 
bring Camellias that 
have got into a badstate 
of health into good con¬ 
dition, and only time 
and patience can do so. 
In the first place, pro¬ 
cure some clean flower¬ 
pots of the same di¬ 
mensions as those con¬ 
taining the plants, some 
broken crocks for drain¬ 
age, and some fine peat 
mould, mixing with it 
quite one fourth of coarse 
river sand. Then turn 
a plant carefully out 
of the pot, and with a 
pointed stick work a- 
way as much of the old 
soil as possible. When 
the roots appear to be 
at all decayed, cut a- 
way the diseased part 
with a sharp knife, but 
be careful not to injure 
in any way such fibres 
as may appear healthy. 
It is probable that a 
considerable amount of 
the old mould will come 
away, as it often hap¬ 
pens that when unsuit¬ 
able composts are em¬ 
ployed, or if the pots are 
too large, or watering is 
carelessly practised, that 
the roots never enter 
the fresh mould when 
the plant is shifted, 
and the compost, in¬ 
stead of imparting fresh 
life and substance to the 
plant, proves a source of 
disease and decay, so 
that unless removed the 
roots cannot regain their 
normal activity. Hav¬ 
ing proceeded thus far 
the next thing to do is 
tore place the plant in a 
pot; choose one that 
will just contain the 
roots, and, taking care 
that it is well drained, 
place a few pieces of 
rough mould on the 
drainage.and fill in round 
the old ball with the 
fine soil, tapping the pot 
down smartly on the bench, but not ramming 
the compost either with the fingers or with a 
stick, but pressing the surface quite firm. Be¬ 
fore repotting, however, well sponge each leaf, 
for the health of a Camellia much depends upon 
the foliage being maintained in a clean state. 
The middle of March is a good time to perform 
the work, and the soil should be moist, but 
not too wet, as it may then be worked «wa; 
more easily. Be careful also to use the fresh 
compost in a moist condition, so as to avoid 
heavy waterings after potting. 1'laoe the plants 
altogether in one part of the house, water gently, 
shade from hot sun, syringe them in warm 
weather twice a day, and keep them rathre 
close, but giving air in miid weather. They 
should not be pruned the first year, as every 
,eaf is of importance. The first season they 

URBANA-CHAMPAK3N 


tones. These structures are often a source of 
much vexation when attached to large mansions, 
inasmuch as there muBt nearly always be a dark 
side. In their erection architectural harmony is 
of course, and properly so, the first considera¬ 
tion, but the result is a house ill-adapted for the 
healthy growth of anything except Ferns, Palms, 
or Camellias. Place well-grown plants of any of 
the usual decorative subjects in it, and they 
quickly deteriorate. Perhaps the most satisfac¬ 
tory method of dealing with such houses is to 
employ for the shaded part plants of a dwarf 
evergreen character, chiefly Ferns, that will 


Group of Correas. Drawn January 12, 1884. 

maintain a permanent undergrowth, as it were, 
! so as to hide the pots, and among which flower- 
| ing plants can be grouped or interspersed at all 
seasons. Here standard Fuchsias might be in¬ 
troduced with the best effect, their graceful 
drooping heads of bloom rising above the sur- 
j rounding foliage, at once attracting attention. 

| As regards culture, if kept growing during the 
summer in a genial temperature, and shifted 
into larger pots as required, all the stronger 
growing sorts may be in two seasons made into 
handsome specimens. In the formation of 
; standards it is only necessary to allow the 
' leading shoots to grow without stopping 
j until the desired height for the stem is 
| reached, pinching off all the side growths as 
[ they appear, and leaving five or six at the top 
to form the nucleus of the future hend. The 















504 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Feb. 0, 1884. 


will not make a strong growth, but they will 
make good roots, and will go away freely the 
following spring. We would not repot again 
next year, but would allow them to get 
thoroughly established before shifting them on 
into larger pots.—B. 


10867.— Culture of Tuberoses.— Having 
prepared the compost, which should consist of 
fibrous loam and about one fifth leaf soil and 
thoroughly rotten manure in equal parts, with a 
dash of silver sand (be sure not to use rank 
dung, better do entirely without it than employ 
it unless at least one year old), well drain some 
6-inch pots and fill up to within 2 inches to 3 
inches of the rim, according to the size of the 
bulbs. Give the pot a tap or two on the bench, 
which will make the soil firm, and then having 
placed the bulbs therein, fill up with soil so that 
about half an inch of space is left for watering. 
Now if you want to get your bulbs into flower 
early, put the pots into a warm house, and if pos¬ 
sible pluDge them in a bed of fermenting 
material. It is in the early stages of growth 
that Tuberoses require great care, they are so 
easily injured by over-watering ; therefore the 
Boil should be kept just moist only until the 
plants come into active growth. The best way 
is to see that the compost is nicely moist when 
using it, not wet, but so damp that little or no 
water is required after potting. I always find 
that when dry soil has been used there is a diffi¬ 
culty in bringing it to just the desired point of 
wetness, and one never seems so sure in water¬ 
ing as when one starts with the compost almost 
or quite as moist as it is desirable to have it. 
When the bulbs are fairly in growth they should 
get a light position, or they will draw up spindly 
and the blooms will come small. Air, too, they 
must get more or less on fine days, for although 
Tuberoses like a moist atmosphere, they would 
become much enfeebled if grown constantly in 
a very confined place. On fine days, when the 
sun has gained considerable strength, the plants 
should be well syringed morning and afternoon, 
and when the pots get full of roots they should 
be liberally watered, never letting them feel the 
want of moisture. There is this peculiarity 
about Tuberose culture, that the bulbs are quite 
as susceptible to injury when in full growth 
from want of water as they are when fresh potted 
from too much ; and it is a want of knowledge 
of this which causes many failures. Although 
warmth is necessary for the production of early 
bloom, Tuberoses may be grown quite well in a 
cool house, potting in March. Two good bulbs 
may be put into a 6-inch pot, or if smaller pots 
are preferred, one bulb may be put in a l.J-inch 
pot.— Byfleet. 


Notes on Chrysanthemums. — The 
present being a very good time for striking the 
Chrysanthemum, 1 should like to make a few 
remarkB on the culture of this most usefnl and 
beautiful of autumn fiowers, thinking it might 
be useful to young beginners in growing them. 
The first as to striking. Get as many pots ready 
as you require varieties ; that is, to have each 
variety in a separate pot. If you require five or 
six of each variety, a middle 3.1-in. pot will be 
large enough to strike them inj placing them 
around the side of the pot. The soil for striking 
them in should consist of sandy loam and leaf- 
mould, or a little very rotten manure, and sand 
enough added to make it porous. Place a large 
crock in the bottom of the pot, and a little of the 
rough soil over it, then fill the pots with the mix¬ 
ture of soil, press down firmly; now the pots are 
ready. The next question is the cuttings. Prepare 
them in the ordinary way, but don’t choose the 
dwarf, stunted looking cuttings; take those that 
look like making a free growth and sue pushing 
up freely. These stunted ones, as I call them, are 
apt to bring imperfect foliage and flowers. In 
putting the cuttings in, make the hole the right 
depth, so that the cutting may rest on the 
bottom of the hole ; press them down firmly, 
and water, then place them on a shelf in a 
greenhouse, or, if not convenient, in a cold pit 
or frame, beep them moist, and when they have 
taken root they will soon make wood (or growth). 
When they have made four or five leaves, take 
out the point of the 6hoots very carefully, so as 
not to injure the foliage. This will cause them 
to break with four or five shoots. When they 
begin to break their buds or shoots, pot them oil 


singly into large Ljig pots, and 
keeping them mqgst ip ^ col.' 





>w them on, 
or pit, 


giving them plenty of air in mild weather. Some 
of the largest plants put into 6-in. pots, using 
good turfy loam and manure.— G. Bbown, 
Snodland. 

10019. — Echeveria metallioa. — The 

easiest way of propagating this is from seed, 
which should be sown either in warmth from 
now until May, or after that time in a cool house 
or frame. The seeds are extremely fine, like dust 
indeed, and the only way to get them up well is 
to fill the pot with fine soil to within quarter of 
an inch of the rim, make the surface firm but not 
hard, and very level, watering sufficiently to 
moisten it through; then coat it with dry 
silver sand; sow the seeds thereon and press 
them in gently, which will cover them suffi¬ 
ciently ; place the pot where it cannot dry out 
quickly, and be careful never to allow the sur¬ 
face to become in the least dry. When the 
young plants appear, move them to the full 
light, and when large enough to handle, prick 
them out in 6-inch pots or pans. Grow during 
the summer in a light airy greenhouse, potting 
singly into small pots when large enough, using 
sandy loom and giving good drainage. In the 
course of a couple of years they will come into 
6-inch pots, and in these they may remain for 
two or three years, as they blcom best when 
root-bound. Well grown, they flower freely 
in winter and early spring, and are very ornamen¬ 
tal. A cool greenhouse in winter suits them 
best.— Byfleet. 

10894.— Saving: Primula aeeds. —The 

seedsmen have considerable difficulty in saving 
seeds from the best strains, and as the quality 
improves, the difficulty becomes greater year by 
year. As a consequence, the packets become 
smaller and cost more money. The flowers 
ought to be fertilised by taking the pollen from 
the anthers of one flower with a small camel-hair 
brush, and placing it on the stigma of other 
flowers. Some of them are what the florists 
term “ pin-eyed.” In that case the stigmas pro¬ 
ject from the flowers; others are “ moss-eyed,” 
in that case the anthers fill the mouth of the 
tube. The “ moss-eyed ” flowers are fertilised 
by thrusting the small brush through amongst 
the anthers, and the pollen will drop on to the 
stigmatic portion of the flower beneath. At this 
time of the year a cool greenhouse is almost too 
damp and cold for the flowers to set well; they 
would do better in a heated house with good 
ventilation. It is right to keep the plants near 
the glass.—J.D.E 

10950.— Ooronilla not flowering:.— For 
some wee ks I have had both Coronillas and Gen istas 
covered with bloom. They live in a cold verandah, 
and never have artificial heat. After flowering 
I trim them in, and cut off all seed-pods. In 
April they are turned out where they have a 
slight shelter from the wind, but where they 
get plenty of sun and have only water to keep 
them up. In June they are repotted and well 
watered every day and given manure water once 
a week. At the end of September they are put 
into the greenhouse until there is again room 
for them in the verandah. The blooming never 
fails. Has “ H. T. H.” kept his plants in too 
warm a house ?—A. H., Calmer Rectory. 

10926.— Plants failing: in greenhouse 

—In a house where Cinerarias, Primulas, and 
Cyclamens do well, it is very difficult indeed to 
say why Geraniums, Callas, and ordinary Ferns 
fail without seeing the house. The Fern fronds 
might shrivel for lack of water at the roots, or 
from the heat of the flue, but the same causes 
would injure the rest of the plants. I can only 
surmise that the plants not doing well are too 
far removed from the glass, or have been in¬ 
jured by the flue. Are they free from green-fly ? 
—J. D. E. 

Sparmannla africana has again become 
very popular, and most deservedly so, for it is a 
very distinct and beautiful flower, and especially 
well adapted for button hole bouquets, as in this 
way the single flowers can be picked as they ex¬ 
pand. The outer petals are of a rich satiny 
white, and contrasts well with the maroon 
centre. It is a plant of the easiest culture, 
growing freely in any light, rich soil, and in a 
warm moist house it will make very fine plants 
in one season. Young plants struck from cut¬ 
tings in spring and grown on without stopping 

I are very ornamental, the foliage being very 
handsome ; and young plants clothed from base 
to summit with fine, healthy foliage, and sur¬ 


mounted by a mass of these pretty flowers, look 
extremely well in vases at this season for indoor 
room decoration.—J. G. H. 


VEGETABLES. 

SOWING SEEDS. 

Nothing is more against the ultimate success of 
a crop than sowing or planting when the soil is 
in a pasty condition. In large places where 
work under glass can be forwarded by all hands 
in wet weather, and the same can be done in the 
kitchen garden when a favourable chance occurs, 
the ill consequences of working wet soil are not 
so liable to be encountered as in small gardens, 
as although many may take delight in attend¬ 
ing to their frames or small conservatory, few 
will, I apprehend, take to the digging and crop¬ 
ping of the kitchen garden, this beiDg mostly 
left to a “jobbing man.” This useful indivi¬ 
dual has generally his time fully taken up at 
this season, and to meet all demands must push 
on with his work at each place, let the weather 
or consequences be what they may, hence dis¬ 
appointing results. Strange to say, however, 
these are hardly ever attributed to gardening in 
wet, but are, as a rule, put down to bad seeds or 
some such plausible cause, but, from experience 
and close observation, I am convinced that very 
few crops indeed fail from bad seed, especially 
if obtained from a reliable source, but failures 
are continually happening through mismanage¬ 
ment in sowing and planting, more particularly 
during wet weather. For the sake of experiment 
we have sometimes sown a short row of Teas very 
early in the season, when the ground was very 
wet, and the result was invariably the same, 
viz., failure, few plants showing above ground, 
and such as did struggle through were never 
robust, and always deficient in fertility. On the 
other hand, seed sown in dry ground and in dry 
weather, always grew luxuriantly and bore pro¬ 
fusely. Let the ground only be dry and get the 
seeds snugly in, and it matters little what kind 
of weather may follow for a time. It is a common 
desire to get all seeds and plants in early, but 
this, in many instances, is disadvantageous. 
Many kinds of seeds sown under favourable 
conditions early in April with the soil in 
suitable order will be almost certain to 
give a supply as early and come to ma¬ 
turity as soon as those Bown in January 
or February in wet, retentive soils. I have 
known Onions sown in January irrespective 
of weather beaten by those sown two months 
later when the crop was harvested in Septem¬ 
ber. I attach the utmost importance to having 
the ground in the very best of order for the re¬ 
ception of seeds, and I have a decided objection 
to anything like kitchen gardening during wet 
weather. We have no fixed dates for sowing 
anything ; the weather alone is our guide. Some 
years we have had a good patch of spring Onions 
from seeds sown by the middle of January, and 
at other times not a seed has been got in until 
the middle of March, but in the end the crops 
were about equally good, thus showing the ad¬ 
vantage of waiting for fine weather. Consider¬ 
ing the number of wet days which we have had 
lately, I fear many will be tempted to put crops 
in now when the soil is really not in the best 
of condition for sowing. In all such cases I 
would certainly bespeak patience. In wet 
seasons, changeable weather, or showery times 
it is an excellent plan to dig or fork and sow or 
plant as that goes on. A long piece may be 
turned up to-day with the intention of cropping 
it to-morrow, but a wet night may follow and 
prevent this being done for days, and even 
weeks, when the soil will have lost the sweet, 
mellow surface which it possessed when first 
moved, and it may be necessary to dig again 
before the crop can be got properly in the 
ground. In cropping and digging at the same 
time, I would begin, say, with early Potatoes. Let 
an opening be taken out at the end of the 
border or piece of ground, and plant one row 
very near the end, then as every 18 inches or 
2 feet of the ground is turned over, make a 
notch in the opening and put in another row, 
and so on to the end. Rows of plants may also 
be planted in this way, and seed beds may be 
formed whenever sufficient ground has been 
turned over to give the desired width. Lastly, 
if a stock of dry soil can be secured, covering 
overall seeds with it in a wet season wiU be a 
great benefit to them. During winter, or indeed 



f'kr. 9, 1884.] GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


565 


t hronghoat the whole season, we never throw 
away any of the old soil which accumulates in 
our potting shed; on the contrary, it is all 
sifted and put away in an odd shed to be kept 
dry for covering vegetable seeds. When drills 
are opened, 1 inch or 2 inches deep, we hardly 
ever fill them again with the ordinary soil, but 
use this material from our store heap, and as it 
generally contains a good deal of sand, leaf soil, 
and well decayed manure, the young seedling 
push freely through it and thrive remarkably 
well in it, more especially in wet seasons.—J. M. 


DOUBLE CROPPING. 

It is a time-honoured practice with many to 
occupy the soil with two distinct crops, one of 
which is intended to be cleared off by the time 
the entire space is required by the other, or most 
important crop. Thus Radish seed is frequently 
sown thinly along with Onion seed, and the 
Radishes are generally cleared off before the 
seedling Onions have made much progress, while 
the gradual withdrawing of the Radishes tends 
to loosen the soil, and benefits rather than other¬ 
wise the Onion crop. In some parts of the 
country cottagers invariably plant the Mazagan 
or some other Broad Bean between the rows of 
Potatoes in their gardens, and the Beans do not, 
as a rule, prove injurious to the development of 
the latter crop. But in addition to this the 
cottager entertains a belief that the presence of 
the Beans tends in some way to mitigate the 
virulence of the Potato disease. Summer 
Spinach is also frequently sown between the 
lines of Peas, as in the early stages of their 
development the necessary space between the 
lines is not required, and by the time this is the 
case what may remain of the Spinach crop may, 
if the weather is dry, be used with advantage as 
a mulching for the Peas, or, if cleared off, the 
space between the lines may be forked or 
dug over, bearing the soil to the right and to 
the left, so as to give increased depth of mould 
to the roots of the Peas. Celery is mostly 
planted in trenches, and the soil thrown out of 
them forms ridges, which, when levelled on the 
top. form excellent stations for Cauliflowers, 
Lettuces, or any crop of quick growth, which 
may be cleared away by the time the soil is 
required to mould or earth up the Celery. The 
increased depth of surface soil afforded the roots 
of plants occupying these ridges induces a rapid 
and exceedingly succulent growth in such gross 
feeding plants as the Lettuce, consequently 
some of Ihe finest summer Lettuces are thus 
produced. 

This system op chopping may with 
advantage be followed in the case of winter 
Broccoli, which not unfrequently during severe 
winter, is entirely cut off by frost, a serious loss, 
as during early spring, the period when Broccoli 
is expected to come into nse, culinary vegetables 
are, as a rule, seldom plentiful. The process 
mostly practised with the view of preventing the 
destruction of this crop is that known as laying, 
an operation effected by removing a portion of 
soil from one side of a row and pressing the 
plants dowu until they assume a somewhat 
horizontal position. The stems are then covered 
with soil taken from the side of the next line of 
plants, and so on until the entire plantation is 
laid down. The stem is found to be the most 
vulnerable part of the plant, hence the necessity 
of protecting it in some way, and a covering of 
soil is mostly found to have the effect of 
preserving it from the effects of very severe 
frost. The operation, at the same time, gives a 
Balutary [check to the plants, rendering them 
less susceptible to the injurious influence of a 
very low temperature than when in vigorous 
growth. On some light and poor soils, however, 
this check has also the undesired effect of 
inducing the plants to produce heads of smaller 
size than would otherwise be the case, and on 
this account the precautionary process of laying 
the plants down is frequently omitted, while by 
adopting the following plan the stems are pro¬ 
tected and no check whatever is given to the 
development of the plants. The winter sorts of 
Broccoli intended to come into use during the 
following spring should be planted in lines, say 
4 feet or 6 feet apart, and between the lines 
should be planted at the same time lines of 
■Walcheren Cauliflower, Veitch’s Autumn Giant 
Cauliflower, early Savoys, or Coleworts, which 
should be all cleared off by the middle or end of 
November, when the winter sorts should be at 

Digitized by GOOgle 


once moulded up close to the lower leaves, and 
in a manner similar to that practised with 
Celery. They thus sustain no check, and at the 
same time the stems are effectually protected, 
and the trench thus formed between the rows 
tends to keep the soil in a dry and healthy con¬ 
dition. Plantations of winter Broccoli thus 
treated generally produce heads of the finest 
quality, and are seldom greatly injured during 
even the most severe winters. G. 


To grow Jerusalem Artichokes.— 

I have grown the above for years with the 
greatest success, by deeply digging into the 
land a good dressing of manure about January. 
Lay the land up rough at the same time, and 
during the last week in February lay on 3 inches 
of coal-ashes, finely sifting them first; then 
prepare yourself with Artichokes about the size 
of hens' eggs. Commence to plant the same as 
if planting Potatoes, only that yon must plant 
them 2 feet apart in the row, and 3 feet from row 
to row. I myself put two sets in a place. 
From the same piece of land I have had good 
returns four years in succession by this method. 

I believe the Artichoke is of a watery substance 
naturally, as I have 'grown it [on heavy soil and 
light soil and always found it the same. I may 
say if the land is sandy—say two thirds—no 
coal-ashes will be required. I find that nipping 
the tops out of the plants when they are about 
3 feet high, gives me better returns and quality. 

I dig my crop in January, and put them in a 
heap with 4 inches of soil to cover them till 
planting time. The largest then are picked out 
for use, the next size for planting, and the small 
ones are given to the pigs, or are sown in a drill 
by themselves; but that depends on circum¬ 
stances. Nothing more is done to get a good 
crop, unless it is to keep the hoe well at work in 
the summer to keep down weeds.—W. B. 

10930.— Tomatoes in vinery.— Tomatoes 
would do well on the back wall with the vine 
rods 6 feet apart. They could either be grown 
in pots or planted out. White Camellias, or in¬ 
deed any sorts of Camellias, would do well in 
such a position, and would beabontas profitable 
as anything else. The blooms would have to be 
cut before you started the vines, and the moist 
warm atmosphere which the vines required 
would just suit the Camellias, as they would then 
begin to make their growth.—J. D. E. 

10940.—Turnip tops.—The seeds should be 
sown in June or early in July, and the plants to 
be thinned out to about 0 inches apart. In 
November they will be of a useful size for 
cooking. Those intended for tops may either 
be left where they are or be planted out on 
another piece of ground. They will attempt to 
flower in the spring, but the tops must be cut 
off when they have grown about 6 inches in 
length of stem, and these are the “honest 
green Turnip tops.’ It is ridiculous to think of 
putting them in a greenhouse.—J. D. E. 

10912. — Planting 1 Potatoes. — Seven 
bushels of Potatoes will be quite sufficient to 
plant a fifth of an acre. At three shillings a 
bushel they would cost a guinea. We bought 
ten bushels of really good Champions for cook¬ 
ing for twenty shillings, six weeks ago. Why 
should you spend £2 10s. for seed ? If the 
ground is too much shaded with trees, the Pota¬ 
toes would not succeed well, but it is worth 
while to try if the soil is good.—J. D. E. 

-I might say that the quantity of seed 

Potatoes needed to plant half an acre of ground 
must depend upon the size of the seed and the 
with between the rows. From 15 to 18 bushels, 
however, will usually plant such an extent well. 
As to the advisability of planting Grass land with 
Potatoes, knowing well the tendency of pasture 
to breed| wireworm, we should prefer some other 
crop for the first year; but if Potatoes are 
planted, the turf should either be taken off first 
and be burnedbefore ploughing, or it should be 
buried deeply. The better plan would be to 
half trench the ground, turning in the turf 3- 
inches deep, then upon that 12-inches of soil, 
and ploughing afterwards for the planting. No 
doubt some manure, quite a moderate dress¬ 
ing, would improve the crop, as also would 
some good patent Potato manure or guano.—D. 

10051.—Brussels Sprouts.—As the top soil of your 
garden is moderately good mould, with s clay subsMl. 
this will do well for Brussels Sprouts. Dig In a good 
dressing of rotten stable manure now; sow the seeds 
early In March ; prick them out a few inches apart, and 
then plant out permanently 2 feet apart—J. D. E. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 

( Continued from page 554 .) 

The Fernery. 

No garden of any pretensions is complete now- 
a-days without its fernery under glass, where the 
beautiful species of exotic Ferns may be gathered 
together for the sake of comparison, and for 
the beauty which Is always present in their 
manifold forms of leafage. In the construction 
and arrangement of the house, thereisabundant 
scope for the exercise of taste and skill. There 
ik no class of plants which submits so readily to 
such a variety of dissimilar conditions as Ferns 
will, and the question of temperature has less 
significancy in their case than with most plants. 
It is true that to grow some species care must 
be exercised, but many of the so-called stove 
Ferns will succeed in a warm greenhouse, and 
all the greenhouse species will flourish in a 
warm house. Even hardy Ferns will acquire a 
freshness of frond under glass which does not 
always belong to them in the open air. I am 
acquainted with a lady who is very fond of 
ferns (all ladies are, I think), but the lady 
I am thinking of has the love which only an 
intimate acquaintance with them can give, and 
which is acquired by personally attending to 
their wants and studying their habits and 
characteristics. And she possesses that most ex¬ 
cellent trait of character (which is, I think 
more often found in women than men) of takiDg 
nothing altogether for granted, but, by experi¬ 
ment, finding outthingsfor herself. Itis wonder¬ 
ful what a number of pet theories have been 
exploded by the use of persistent experiment. 
Some great man or great woman utters some¬ 
thing, and forthwith it becomes a gospel which 
everybody accepts, without taking the trouble to 
test it, and it gets handed down as a text from 
generation to generation, till some hard-headed 
idiot runs his head against it, and then it 
collapses like a house of cards. This lady has 
only a greenhouse, but it is a good sized one, 
and being a lean-to, it possesses a stage ranged in 
shelves one above the other against the back 
wall, and on the stage and on a shelf along the 
front she grows her Kerns in pots. She has 
gathered together many species, both stove and 
greenhouse, and the two seem quite at home 
together. In fact, this was one of the matters 
on which she never sought advice. She had been 
told so many times that such and such a Fern 
required a high temperature which she had found 
succeed well in her greenhouse, that at last 6he 
paid no regard to what she heard, but simply 
went on her own way, occasionally making 
mistakes, but on the whole satisfied with her 
success. I have referred to this to show how 
accommodating Ferns are on the whole. 

Shade for Ferns. 

Most of the species are generally considered 
to do best in a shady position. To a certain 
extent this is true, but I am convinced that more 
shade than is necessary is frequently employed, 
especially if we want any of the fronds for 
bouquet making or to mix with flowers, or if we 
wish at any time to move the plants out of the 
house in which they grow, which most people do 
at some time or other if they are grown in pots. 
The fronds grown in the shade in a high tem¬ 
perature heavily laden wilh moisture are of no 
use for cutting, nor yet are the plants grown 
under such conditions of any use for decorating 
the rooms for a ball or party, for the least blast 
of cold air shrivels up the delicate flimsy foliage 
almost immediately. 

In constructing a fernery, we must first take 
into consideration what is our aim and object. 
If we want plants to be moved into the rooms, 
or fronds for cutting to mix with flowers, they 
must have plenty of light, and as low a night 
temperature as is consistent with health. If, 
on the other hand, we simply want to enjoy the 
plants as they grow without thought of removal, 
then the natural system of arrangement is 
decidedly the best. In snch a case, pots and 
tubs may be dispensed with. The fernery 
should be as large and as lofty as the means 
will admit, for no fernery will contain a repre¬ 
sentative collection that does not include some of 
the Australian Tree Ferns, and these will require 
a considerable amount of space upwards and 
laterally, for their fronds are far-reaching. In 
the natural fernery the outline of the beds 
and borders will have an picturesque a surface 
as can be given in a limited space, and the 



GARDENING ILL UNIRATEI) 


[Fun. !), 1884. 


560 


■winding paths will Ue formed of some sober 
coloured material; cement will be very appro¬ 
priate. The Tree Ferns may be grouped in the 
gullies or indentations, and the lower growing 
species on the banks, which may be aided by 
naturally grouped rockwork. This arrangement 
will give more head room for the tall species, 
and will bring the small things more into notice. 
Mosses and other creeping things will fill up bare 
space, and cover all with a living natural growth. 
In making the borders drainage is essential, and 
it will add much to the interest of the house if 
a quiet pool can be introduced at the base of 
a mound of rock, down the face of which a tiny 
stream might ripple. There should be no bare 
walls visible; in some way they should be 
clothed with suitable vegetation. Virgin cork is 
sometimes used for this purpose, but its chief 
fault is its lack of permanence. I have seen 
clinkers and large pieces of hard furnace coke 
covered with cement, used with good effect; and 
there are creeping plants, such as Ficus repens 
and others, that will cover quickly anynaked wall 
with living greenery, and which will cling in a 
natural manner without aid. 

The Culture op Ferns in Pots. 

This is not attended with any difficulties 
more than will be found with ordinary plants. 
If tho fronds arc required for cutting, which in 
most gardens some of them are, I have generally 
found that aproportionoE loam gives strength and 
substance. Indeed, some kinds do bestaltogether 
in loam, and for greenhouse Ferns, especially for 
plants which are required to possess a good 
development for furnishing corridors, rooms, 
&c., and which must at the same time be grown 
in a limited sized pot. loam as turfy and 
fibry as it can be had furnishes the best 
food. It may be lightened with peat or 
leaf-mould, if too heavy, and sand and charcoal 
dust will be useful if it lacks porosity, for in no 
case must stagnant water linger in the soil. It 
may be taken without saying that the pots 
mast be clean and well drained, and the soil in 
a healthy condition when used. The ball of 
the plant must be neither wet nor dry. The 
best season to repot is in spring, jnst before or 
about the time growth begins. At this season 
Ferns may be divided, may in fact be ent up 
into little bits, and begin life afresh in the 
smallest, of fragments, though in such cases 
a close moist shady place will be of great value 
to encourage early root action, without which 
some may, perhaps, perish before the returning 
wave of life reaches them. Though tho general 
potting should bo done in spring, yet young 
growing specimens may be shifted on any time 
during summer. 

Ferns in Baskets. 

This is an excellent way of growing all the 
naturally trailing or drooping species ; indeed all 
Ferns will grow as well in baskets as in pots, 
but it may not be either convenient or ex¬ 
pedient to have too many in baskets. Still, a 
few to hang about the house will add to its ap¬ 
pearance, and they are very useful to move into 
the house to hang up in the hall and corridors, 
&c., on party nights. The simpler the form of 
basket used the better, as whatever kind is em¬ 
ployed, none of it should be visible when the 
plant is full grown. We make our own baskets 
of different sizes, to suit the different objects we 
have in view, due weight being given to the re¬ 
quirements of the plants. When the baskets are 
made at homo, the cost is very small, as wire is 
cheap, and a handy man, after a little practice, 
can make them on wet days, the only tools re¬ 
quired being an implement to cut the wire and 
a pair of pliers to bend it in the right direction. 
Two sizes of wire are used, one stout to form 
the ground work of the basket, and the other of 
lighter substance to bind all together, and after¬ 
wards a coat of paint is given to preserve it 
from rnst. 

Varieties. 

I give below a selection of names of Ferns 
which may be successfully grown in a night 
temperature not exceeding 50° in winter ; in 
severe weather a drop to 45° or even 40° will 
do no harm. 

Tree Ferns. 

Ahophila australis, A. exceisa, Cyathea 
dealbata, C. medullaris, Dicksonia antarctica, 
1). squarrosa, Cibotium princeps. 

General Collection. 

Adiantum aBSimile, A. concinnum, A. ennea- 
tum, A. decorum, A. Farleyense, A. formosum A. 

Digitized by GOOgle 


gracillimum, A. hispidnlum, A. reniforme, A. 
Sancttc Catharine, A Betnlosum, A. venustum, 
Anemidictyon phyllitidis, Asplenium alatum, 
A. balbiferum, A. caudatum, A. Colensoi, A. 
divaricatum, A. diversi folium, A. flaccidum, A. 
Fabianum, A. lucidum, A. laxum pumilum, A. 
Veitchianum, Cheilanthes elegane, C. farinosa, 
Cyrtomium falcatum, Davallia canariensis, D. j 
elegans, D. polydactyla, I). Fijiensis major, D. j 
Novai-Zealandiie, D. tenuifolia stricta, Didy- 
mochlama truncatula, Doodia aspera multifida, 
Doryopterin palmata, Gloichenia, circinata 
glauca, U. flabellata, G. Mendeli, G. rupestris, 
Goniophlebiuru ncpultum, Gymnogramma buI- 
phurea. The gold and silver Ferns require for 
the most part rather more heat, but I have 
grown the species above named in a low tem¬ 
perature. Hymenophyllum crispatum, H. 
dilatatum, H. flexuosum, H. Tunbridgense, H, 
Wilsoni, Todea pellucida, T. superba, T. Wilke* 
siana. The two last named generas require a 
close shady situation to do them well. They are 
usually grown with a glass case or frame in the 
shade. Lastrea aristatavariegata, L. deeomposita, 
Lomaria gibba crispa, L. falcata, Lygodium 
scandens (climbing Fern), Neottopteris austra- 
lasica, N. nidas, Nephrodium molle corymbi- 
ferum, Nephrolepis davallioides furcans, N. 
exaltata, Onychium lucidum, Phlebodium 
aureura, Platycerium alcicorne, PJatyloma 
falcata, P. rotundi folia, Poly podium effusum, P 
pectinafcum, Pteris arg-yrrea, P. cretica albo- 
lineata, P. scaberula, P. serrulata cristata, P. 
tremula, P. longifolia, Woodsia Veitchi, Wood- 
wardia radicans, W. r. cristata. 

Club Mosses. 

Selaginella apoda, S. argentea, S. chinonsis, 
S. denticulata, S. d. variegata, S. Douglassi, S. 
formosa, S. hclvetica, S. japonica, S. Martensi, 
S. Schooti, S. stolonifera, S. viticulosa, S. 
Wildenovi. E. Hobday. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

10931.— Syringing plants.—Water used 
as you suggest could not do the plants any harm, 
but as a rule during the summer months, it would 
be much cooler than the atmosphere of the hoose, 
and it would not do the plants so much good as 
syringing them with warmer water would. I 
would not care t o syringe vines at all ; but if it 
is necessary to do so to keep down red-spider, 
the water ought to stand over the hot-water pipes 
a few hours (or even in the warm atmosphere of 
the honse) before using it.—J. D. E. 

10917.— Pruning Vines.— You have doubt¬ 
less allowed the young wood to become too 
much crowded, but it will not do to leave it as 
| it is. Select the strongest young wood, and 
cut it back to two or three good eyes. Any 
very strong young growths may be left 2 feet 
or 3 feet long. In future train up young wood 
from near the base of the rafters, but the rods 
should be at least 2 feet 6 inches apart —J. D. E. 

10S90.—Primulas. — I have seen Primulas do the 
same thing a8 thoso described that were potted too 
hard and in rather stlif soiL When potting you should 
use plenty of leaf mould—at least one-third, and two- 
thirds good turfy loam, with sand added to keep it 
porous, but not coarse sand. You should pinch off the 
flowers until you have them In their flowering pots.—J. 
Robertson. 

10937.—Tomatoes from seeds — Yon must not 
plant out Tomatoes until all danger from frosts are over, 
and that will not be until the end of May. You might 
sow the seeds in heat about the first of April, and grow 
them on singly in pots until it is time to plant them out; 
by the end of May they would be good sized plants.— 
J . D E. 

10939.— Sowing annuals.—The kindB named could 
be sown any time from the middle of March to the 
middle of April, in cold frames. They would not re¬ 
quire much water, but after tho plants come through the 
ground give them plenty of air and light, and prick them 
out 2 inches or 3 Inches apart as soon as they are large 
enough.—J. D. E. 

10943.—Pruning roots of standard Roses.— 
Dig up the Roses with as many roots attached as pos¬ 
sible. All the pruning they require is to cut off any 
damaged roots. Any very long, thick, hare roots may be 
ent back a little, but save every small fibrous root pos- 
sible.-J. D. E. 

10924.—Whit© Grapes—One of the best white Grapes 
is Muscat of Alexandria, but to do it well it requires a 
little more heat than most others. A few other good 
white Gropes are Buckland Sweetwater, Foster’s Seed- 
Hug, Raisin do Calabrica, Royal Mnacadine, and White 
Tokay.— J. Rcuertson. 

109*>8 —Violets not blooming.— The fact of the 
Violets being 600 feet above the sea level can hardly be 
the cause of failure, as we are 560 feet and hare had a 
profusion all winter.—A. H., Colmer Rectory. 


10916.—Cutting back Fuchsias, &c.—Cut back 
first, and repot after the plants have made about 1 inch 
of growth.—J. R. 

10949.—Plants for vinery.—See auswer to corre¬ 
spondent 1C930. 


Cucumbers in frames .—Young Gardener. — You 
will find numerous exhaustive articles on the subject in 
the present volume of Gardening. 

Beehives.—3f. K. Try Messrs. Neighbour and 
.Sons, High Uolbom, London. 

R. F.— First got together a few people interested and 
form a committee. Then get some of tho schedules of 
prizes, Are ,bailed by other fociet ics—of which there are.no 
doubt, plenty near you—and select from there schedules 
such portions as may bo suitable to your particular case. 
A lengthy article on such a subject is scarcely suited to 
our pages. 

C. T .—From any large seed shop.- Fragcli.— 

Strawberries may be mulched now.- L. S —Try Messrs. 

Win. Paul and Son, the Nurseries. Waltham Cross, 
Herts.- A Reader .—We know of no such book. 

O. S. 8.— Probably the plant has been allowed to be¬ 
come dry at the root at some time, and the.leaves have 
turned rusty in consequence. 

J. J. Cates.— No doubt the flower has come green 
owing to ita being out of its natural season. 


QUERIES. 


Rules for Correspondents.- AU comtmcnica 
turns Jor insertion should be clearly and concisely i critten 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the Publisher. The name 
and address of the sender is reauired , in addition to any 
nom de plume fo be used in the paper. Am wen to Queries 
should alicat/s bear the number and title of the atlery 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day of publication , it is not jxu^dble to insert queries and 
co'mmunications the week they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

Naming plants. —Four plants, fruits, or flowers only 
can be named at one time , and this only tthen good 
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name 
varieties of florists’ ftoioers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
specialist who has the means of comparison at hand. Any 
communication respecting plants or dowers sent to nanu 
should always accompany the parcel. 

1 999.—Beetles destroying Strawberries.— 
Last year I had a beautiful bed of strawberries of twenty 
square yards. All the fruit was destroyed in the night, 
as it began to change. All tho seeds were picked off by a 
small beetle about three-quarters of an inch long. At 
first it was thought that mice had done the mischief, but 
on lifting up the litter the beetles were seen by scores. 
In the spring the bed wss well cleaned, all the dead 
leaves were raked up and burned, and a Dutch hoe run 
down the rows, then a covering of long farmyard manure, 
and the spring rains washed it clean for the fruit to lay 
on. This spring I am thinking of giving the beds a 
dressing of lime, soot, and a little Peruvian guano, will 
guano hurt the plants, or what is best to be done under 
the circumstances?—(J. W. 

11000.—Moss manure—Can anyone give me particu¬ 
lars about using moss manure ? We have had moss litter 
used in the stable over threo months, and wo have it 
cleared completely away every month. Is that which is 
tw o or three months old fit to use now for manuring the 
kitchen or flower garden ? How deep a bed is it necessary 
to make of it for Melon and Cucumber frames. I intend 
trying the sunk bed as recommended a few weeks ago in 
Gardening, and my bed will be dug out in a clear space 
in the orchard. Ought I to put a larger proportion of 
leaves with it, a3 it is calculated to be seven times 
stronger than the ordinary straw manure ?— Debrez. 

licoi.—Manures for top dressing.—Will some¬ 
one give an opinion as to the use of artificial and other 
manures as a top-dressing for Roses which are well 
established in a naturally good Rose soil, the beat time 
to apply it, and how long the various manures lued are 
supposed to take in reaching the roots ? I have tried fat 
farmyard manure, guano, poultry dung, bone dust, and 
Clay’s fertiliser with good results, but all, except the 
last named, appeared to be a long time before acting 
upon the plants. 1 have heard of a mixture of blood and 
bone dust highly recommended, and should like to know 
what growers of Roses think about it.—J. L. 

11002.—Bruseels Sprouts failing*.—My Brussels 
Sprouts this year are a failure. Instead of being nice solid 
Sprouts, they are blown or open, like the growth of the 
head. Where is the mistake Is it in the seed, season, or 
is it my error in culture? I sowed in April, planted out 
in June, having well manured the ground with stable 
manure. My garden is in Devonshire, soil good and 
2 feet to 3 feet deep, southern aspect, and walled in. 
Would someone kindly enlighten me on tho above sub¬ 
ject ?-X. Y. Z. 

11003.— Window plants.—I have Geraniums and 
Fuchsias growing in my parlour window. I possess a 
cold frame and a home-made propagator. When I cut 
down ray plants, must I place them and the cutting* st 
once into the propagator? If so, whnfc heat should I 
maintain, when should I remove to cold frame, aoJ 
when to thoir old quarters, tho parlour window ? Ought 
tho old plants to be root pruned and re-potted prior to 
being moved Into the propagator? Any additional hint- 1 
would be highly appreciated.—HiBinNlA. 

11004.—Ferns.—I have two Maidenhair Ferns. When 
I first got them, two years ago, they were very buy, 
with splendid foliage. Soon after they -withered, leaf bj 
leaf, until not on® was left. Could anyone teU me 
to do with them ? I have studied every book on Ferns I 
can procure, and act accordingly, but all is of no avail 
They won’t grow higher than au inch or two. Cook 
some reader kindly tell me how to treat them ?—U 
JMpfhflnrfc I ■ .1 y\r II I |k|/\|c at 



Feb. 9, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


507 


11005.—Cape Gooseberry preserves.—I should 
like to ask readers of Garbkning to give me any address 
where I could obtain real preserve of the Cape Goose¬ 
berry'. I have often tasted it in perfection in a shooting 
box in Sootland, but that was privately sent from 
Madeira. 1 am not now able to obtain the exact address 
it was sent from. Is there any place in England where 
it can be obtained ? I quite agree that it is the best pre¬ 
serve (for certain tastes), as yonr correspondent, “B. P., 
Sudbury," says.—H erbert E. Hull. 

11006.—CoroniUa withering.—Will any reader 
kindly tell me what I am to do with a Coronilla ? I have 
a very handsome plant, which has been doing well until 
quite receutly. when suddenly all the new leaves drooped 
and withered, and now there is not a leaf remaining. I 
have no greenhouse, but through the winter have kept it 
in a warm room. BeiDg quite a novice I should be very 
grateful of any advico as to watering, <fcc.—A Londoner. 

11007.— Early Strawberries.—I have a lot of 
Strawberry plants in pots. They aro last year's runners, 
have good roots, and nice crowns of leaves showing up. 
They are on a shelf in a cold greenhouse, where they get 
plenty of light, also sun when it shines. How ought I to 
treat them to get a good crop of Strawberries early ? 
Would it be well to water them with manure water! 
Any information will greatly oblige.-- Perni»ale. 

1100S.—Eplpbyllums —Can any reader advise me 
as to ihe treatment of Epiphyllum truncatum, having 
several plants under my charge which are not doing 
satisfactorily ? They are at present in a small stove, 
which is used as a Cucumber house, at a temperature of 
from 65° to 70°. I Bhall bo glad of auy advice in the 
matter.- Constant Reader. 


11009.—Pansies, seifs.—What am'I to understand 
by a self Pansy ? I have bought several, and looked in 
many catalogues, but in each case dad blotches mentioned. 
Again, I am told by a person who has fifteen distinct 
single coloured varieties that a blotched Pansy is not a 
sell Names of a few distinct pure colours without blotch 
and where to obtain such that they cannot be disputed, 
will oblige.—K ell Top. 

11010.—Potting Geraniums.—La*t August I took 
some Geranium slips and put them in a box pretty 
thickly. They arc nearly all still looking green, but the 
leaves sre very small and the stalks spindly. I keep them 
in a warm room Ought I now to put them into separate 
pots? Would it be of any consequence if all the clay 
falls off the roots when transplanting?- Fragola. 

11011 —Dielytra spectabllis —How can I keep 
through the winter and preserve from the frosts a plant 
of Ditlytra epectabilis, which is now a few inches above 
ground in t he open air ? Last year, when almost beginning 
to flower, it was cut down to the ground.—FRAGOLA. 

11012 .—Clematis from seed.—I shall feel obliged 
if some reader will give me Information respecting 
raising Clematis from seed. I bought two packets of 
seed last year and sowed It in a pot in my greenhouse, 
but did not get one plant. What I want- to know is, what 
heat they require? Any other hints for raising them 
will also oblige.—CLEMATIS. 

11013.—Manure for Broccoli.—Will Mr. Groom 
be kind enough to explain, with reference to his sugges¬ 
tion of the application of liquid manure to backward 
Broccoli plants, what kind of manure he would recom¬ 
mend to those who have no supply on hand, and of what 
str ength, and how often it can be applied with advantage ? 
-G. F. Y. 


11014.—Sparrows and Peas.—I wish to know a 
remedy for getting rid of sparrows. I cannot preserve a 
cooking of Peas. They come in flocks, robbing the fowls 
of their food. Have tried poisoned wheat, but, having 
two or three blackbirds, do not wish to destroy them. 
Nets lost summer were useless, ns they worked a way 
under them.—C. S. L. 

11016 — Asters.—Will some reader kindly say what is 
the distinguishing points of difference between French, 
German, and China Asters, and if such names as quilled, 
Chrysanthemum flowered, Pansy flowered, &c., come 
under any of the named classes? If so, what kinds 
belong to each nationality mentioned?—W. G. W. 

11016 .—Shrubs for shady place —I have a very 
shady piece of ground, twenty yards long and three yards 
wide, in front of a particular window. Will small shrubs 
(if so what sort), Winter Roses, and Forget-me-nots grow 
and bloom in the shade? Any suggestions will oblige.— 
CATO. 

11017.—Roses not flowering.—I have some Roses 
which bloomed last summer, bat only slightly, not at all 
satisfactory. Could someone tell me whether it is better 
to move them, as the soil they are In is only two feet 
deep, on a bed of gravel? What soil is best for them?— 
CONSTANT READER. 

11018 .—Canker-worm in Carrots and Parsnips. 
—My crops of Carrots and Parsnips are yearly spoiled by 
canker-worm. What could l do by manuring, or other¬ 
wise, to remedy this in future? Would soot or lime 
water do any good ? I manure with rotted stable manure 


—J. D., Devon. 

11019.—Flowers In succession.—I have just 
planted a bed of Ranunculus and Anemones, and am 
puzzled about what would best succeed these plants 
when their bloom is over. I should be glad of informa¬ 
tion if anyone will kindly give it.—E nquirer. 

11020.—Propagating frame.—Not being able to 
procure stable manure for making a hotbed without 
much difficulty, 1 shall feel obliged if some readere would 
inform me of an easy and inexpensive way of making a 
[ji| propagating frame about three feet square.—J. B. 

1102L—Straw manure.—In what quantity should 
this be put on a meadow kept for hay ? Is it liable to 
breed worms? Any personal experience of it as manure 
would greatly oblige, as shortly I shall have nothing 
else.—B uds and Blossoms. 

11022.—Arum Lily not flowering.—I have an 
Arum Lily that has thrown up a bloom stalk, but it does 
not open properly, and evidently will not. Would some- 
*4 one kindly tell me why ? The plant stands in water and is 
~ in a warm house.—FLORA. 

11023.—Flowering Eucharis.—After being dried 


j 1 ind repotted in peat and loam, and put again in heat, 
ought Eucharis amazonica to have^a great deal or very 


little water to make them flower f—F lora 


rf—F lora 

I __ rv i \ n \r% 


11024.—Climber for cool house.-Can auy corre¬ 
spondent tell m« of a good flne-leaved climber (coloured 
or variegated) which would do well in a cool conserva¬ 
tory where there ia no sun (aspect north-east), tempera¬ 
ture to 45 w ?—Edith. 

11025.—Ardisias not berried.—I have a flue plant 
of Ardisia, but the red berries are few and very small. I 
should be glad to know the cause and the treatment that 
must be used to make the berries larger and more 
plentiful ?—F. B. 

11026.—Pruning Roses —Would it injure Scotch 
Rose trees to cut off straggling branches, should 
common Rose trees be pruned as closely as the Hybrid 
Perpetual*, and when should all Roses be pruned ?—A 
Constant Reader. 

11027. —Dividing Chrysanthemum roots.— 
What is the proper time to divide Chrysanthemum 
plants, and should the young plants that were planted last 
June be divided as weU as older plants ?—A Constant 
Reader. 

11028.—Clay for rockery.—W r iH clay make a good 
foundation for rockery; if so, should 1 mix anything 
with it to assist drainage ? The rockery would be prin¬ 
cipally for hardy Ferns.—C ato. 

11029.—Treatment of Anthuriums.—Will any 
reader kindly give best treatment for Anthuriums, both 
flne-leaved and flowering, soil, time of potting, and the 
best stimulant?—C onstant Reader. 

11030. — Garden Chrysanthemums. — Kindly 
give directions for treatment of garden Chrysanthemums, 
and say when and how to propagate them in a green¬ 
house by tops or slips.— M. C. 

11031.—The Winter Cherry.—I should be glad of 
any information respecting the Winter Cherry (Phy sal is 
Alkekengi), what time of year to plant, where to pro¬ 
cure seed, &c.—R. F. Rendkl. 

11032.—Lilies.—Is theLilium Harrisi of the Exlmium 
species an outdoor plant or a greenhouse one, and when 
is the right time for plauting Liliurn auratum out-of- 
doors ?—Dover. 

11033.—Culture of Celeriac.— I shall be obliged If 
anyone who grows Celeriac will tell me its merits, 
culinary uses, and culture ?—W. F. Asbridge. 

11034.—Moving Wallflowers.—I have two beds of 
Wallflowers where I sowed the seed. What is the best 
way to move them ?- Fragola 

11035.—Winter Cherries (Solanums). —How should 
these be treated to colour the berries, and during the 
resting and flowering seasons?— Edith. 

11030 —Culture of Heaths.— What is the best 
method of growing Heaths? Can they he grown in a cool 
greenhouse, or in a temperature of 40° to 46°?—Ei ITH. 

11037.—Tuberous Begonias.—Wanted, the names 
of six best tuberous-rooted Begonias, naming colour of 
each, including best double pink one.—W en A. 

11038.—Propagating Cacti.—Will someone kindly 
advise me as to the best time to strike cuttings of Cacti, 
and what is the best soil for them?—C onstant Reader. 

11039.—Celeriac.—How should seed of Celeriac be 
sown, and how should the young plants be treated.— 
G. L 

11040.—Mealy bug.—Would Bomone kindly tell me 
how to get rid of mealy bug ?— Subscriber. 


CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 

Henry Middlehurst, 11, Manchester Street, Liverpool— 
Vegetable and Flower Seeds. 

Henry Cannell and Sons, Swanley, Kent—Illustrated 
Floral Guide for 1884. 

P. J. Kanes, The Nurseries, Kells, Co. Meath—Amateur's 
Annual and Garden Seed Catalogue. 

Wm. Samson and Co., 8 and 10, Portland Street, Kil¬ 
marnock—Spring List of Seed Plants, Ac. 

Isaac Brunnlng aud Co., 3, Regent Street, Great Yar¬ 
mouth—Vegetable and Flower Seeds. 

W. Smith and Son, 18, Market Street, Aberdeen—Seeds 
Plants, tfcc. 

Liverpool Horticultural Company, 11, Hardman Street, 
Liverpool—Vegetable and Flower Seeds. 

E. J. Jarman, Chard, Somerset—Vegetable, Farm, and 
Flower Seeds. 

Samuel May, 29, Ilpperhead Row, Leeds—Flower Seeds. 

Stephen Brown, Weston-Super-Mare, Somersetshire— 
Seeds. 

J. R. Pearson and Sons, Chilwell Nurseries, Nottingham 
—Illustrated Floral Guide, Garden and Flower Seeks. 

John Forbes, Hawick, N B.—B’orest and Fruit Trees, 
Roses, and General Nursery Stock. 


Reviving cut flowers.— Hot water will 
often revive faded flowers, even when every 
petal is drooping. Place the stems in a cap of 
boiling-hot water; leave them in it until each 
petal has become smoothed out, then cut off the 
coddled ends and pnt them into milk-warm 
water. Coloured flowers revive sooner than 
those that are of a snowy whiteness, as the 
latter turn yellow. A cool room is best adapted 
to keeping flowers fresh. They will wilt quickly 
in badly ventilated rooms, especially if filled 
with Tobacco smoke. Each flower as it fades 
should be taken away, or it will cause the others 
to decay. 

Slugs and rare plants.— Put cabbage 
leaves at intervals of from i ft. to C ft. apart on 
the beds, sprinkle a pinch of bran under each 
leaf, and reverse them every morning when 
destroying the slugs. Look especially after 
Crocuses, some of the Liliums, and small Helle¬ 
bores, as these latter are eaten into the earth 
before one can see that the plant has started 
into growth.—B. 


B E E Si 

SEASONABLE NOTES. 

So mild has been the present winter, that now, 
at the end of January quite a large number of 
hardy flowers are in bloom, and the bee garden 
is bright with the flowers in full blossom of 
Borage, Arabia, Wallflower, Limnanthes, Snow¬ 
drop, Crocus, tec. 

Stores —The bees have consumed a large 
proportion of their winter stores, having been 
kept in a state of activity by the high tempera- 
tnre, which has risen on many dajs to 50°. 
Stocks should be carefully examined, and where 
necessary fed with sugar cake, otherwise great 
will be the lamentation in a few weeks over 
starved stocks. There should still be sealed food 
in at least four frames, 3 inches or 4 inches down 
from the top. Sugar cake may be placed on the 
top of the frames, under the quilt, where the 
bees will consume it as needed, or frames filled 
with sugar cake may be placed at the sides of 
the cluster. In straw hives it may be inserted 
in the feed hole at top. Syrup must not yet be 
given, as the consumption of this watery food is 
at present likely to cause dysentery. When the 
bees of some hives are seen flying abroad, while 
the rest of the hives in the apiary are in a state 
of repose, the former will in all probability be 
found to bo very low in the store department, 
almost at starvation point, being forced out by 
hunger in the vain search for food. Any bars of 
honey combs preserved from last summer, will 
now be very valuable to supply to hungry stocks. 
They should be slightly warmed before intro¬ 
duction into a hive, or the temperature of the 
hive will be much lowered. Breeding will soon 
commence, and the consumption of stores in¬ 
crease at a still greater rate ; in fact, the most 
critical period in the bee keeper’s calendar is 
near at hand. As the brood hatches out, the in¬ 
equality between the internal demand and the 
external supply is so great, that none but well- 
stored colonies can bear up against it; hence, 
the reason of stocks dying off in spring. 

Dampness in hives.— Carefully guard against 
dampness at this season. Sometimes the 
chippings of the combs, dead bees, and other 
rubbish which collect on the floor board, will be 
found mouldy, and the hive damp, and in an 
unhealthy state in consequence. All causes of 
dampness (which is a deadly enemy to bees), 
must be removed as soon as discovered. When 
the hive sides rest on the floor board, the wet 
often draws under them and spreads over the 
hive; this may be obviated by having the hive 
sides made to fit outside the floor-board. Straw 
hives should always have a wooden hoop sewn 
to the lower edges, and the covering bo 
sufficiently large to throw the rain quite clear of 
the floor-board. 

Bees’ enemies. —The blue titmouse will con¬ 
sume a large number of bees at this season if 
not warned off. He will take his stand on the 
alighting-board, and tap with his bill at the 
entrance till a bee appears, when he instantly 
snaps it np and flies off with it to a bough of a 
tree, or some other convenient place,where, after 
killing his victim, he, before swallowing it, care¬ 
fully removes the head, sting, legs, and wings. 
He will thus destroy six or seven bees in ten 
minutes. The remains of his dainty repast may 
frequently be found on the tops of the hives. It 
is, however, only when its natural food fails that 
it becomes a bee eater. In summer, when there 
is abundance of insect food, it seldom visits the 
apiary. Its depredations can be put a stop to by 
covering the hive front with a protecting wire 
screen like a fire-guard. Mice will sometimes 
take np their winter quarters in straw hives and 
destroy a quantity of comb, and rob the bees of 
their stores. Entrances should be so contracted 
that mice cannot enter, which may be done by 
cutting pieces of wood to fit the entrances, in 
each of which cut a small doorway, about 
quarter of an inch in height, and one inch in 
length. ITiis will allow ample room for the 
traffic of the bees, and at the same time maue 
the entrance of mice impossible. Another way 
is to drive two or three nails into the floor-board 
close to the entrance. A slug will sometimes 
find its way into a hive (being very partial to 
sweets), but is soon put to death by the bees, 
who, however, being unable to remove the body 
from the hive, wisely cover it up with propolis, 
to prevent the ill effects of putrefaction. 

Boxnorti. , — r - , —,, - 8. S. G. 



568 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[F«b. 9, 1884. 


POULTRY. 


Rearing and feeding.— I am always 
very much interested in reading anything con¬ 
cerning poultry breeding and feeding which 
from time to time appears in this paper. 

Sunderland" Beemr to think he has done 
much better than “ Heatherdale.” I consider I 
have done even better than 41 Sunderland,” and 
as he will be pleased to know if any reader has 
had as good or better results than himself, I 
will with pleasure, and your permission, give him 
some of my results, and the way I treat my 
poultry. 1 have all my life been much in¬ 
terested in poultry breeding, and latterly I have 
taken a considerable amount of trouble to pro¬ 
cure some of the best breeds of the day. I have 
a yard leading into a small shrubbery, but not a 
scrap of green grass in it. At one end of the 
yard I have a small aviary, in which I keep 
about five Minorca hens and a cock, of Hopkins’s 
strain, and at the end of the shrubbery I have 
another small run wired off, in which I keep the 
same number of Andalusians, and in the yard 
or open run I have got a variety of good pure 
breeds, consisting of brown Leghorn pullets, 
Houdan, dark Dorking and grey Brahma pullets, 
and four bens of a good cross breed for mothers 
in the spring, and am running a pure Minorca 
cock and a pure light Dorking cock with them. 

I consider if all goes well I shall have a 
good supply of eggs all next autumn and winter, 
and some good table fowls as well. From about 
twenty-eight hens and pallets I have had an 
average of eleven eggs per day from the end of 
October until now, which I consider a good 
supply when so many are moulting and several 
of the pullets not come on for laying. My plan 
of treatment is to give them all a good meal of 
warm soft food in the morning, but not directly 
they are let out, such as kitchen scraps of boiled 
vegetables, Sec , made thick with barley meal and 
stuffs, which is better than all barley meal, and 
just after this, their first meal, I give them a 
little mixed corn, consisting of wheat, barley, 
oats, maize, and buckwheat, and any green 
food the garden will produce. At midday I give 
them any odd bits or bones, &c , to pick at, and 
about 3.30 I give them as much of the good 
mixed corn as they will eat, as it is a long time 
till next morning. I keep ashes and sand mixed 
together on the floors of their roosting places, 
and every morning rake up their droppings, so 
that the places are always clean and free from 
fleas, &c. I give them straw for their nests, 
not hay, as the latter is more likely to breed 
vermin. It is a very common thing for people 
to let their poultry houses get in a very filthy 
state, and also feed the fowls with cheap food 
and no change, and then wonder their fowls 
don’t lay. My plan is, feed them well on the 
best food, and as regular as you can, and keep 
their places clean, fit for any one to go into. It 
will well repay you, as you will go in and out 
with pleasure, and always find some eggs in 
their nests more or less. If “ Sunderland ” and 
“ Heatherdale ” will only treat their poultry 
after my plan, I will warrant them to have goed 
returns all the year round. It has been a very 
common thing for people to say to me, who 
have generally three or four times the number 
of fowls that I have, " Whatever do you do to 
make your fowls lay so well ? Mine don't lay at 
all.” My advice is, get some good breeds, and 
do them well. I shall be pleased to know if any 
reader has had even better results than I show 
under similar circumstances, or can suggest any 
improvement in my system of poultry keeping 
and feeding. I am|not so fortunate as “ Sunder¬ 
land "in having a kitchen garden with part grass 
to run my fowls in.—E. J. 

Keeping poultry.— Perhaps some reader 
of Gardening might be able to give me a word 
of advice about the best fowls to keep for laying 
purposes. I have an open space of several acres 
on which they can run, a large and well fitted 
house, and plenty of fresh water. What variety 
is best for producing eggs ? How can the hatching 
of chicks be regulated so as to have some laying 
all the winter season ? How many hens ought 
to be given to one cock ? On what should they 
be fed all the year round ? Is it desirable to 
keep a few ducks in the same house with the 
hens f How often should they be fed during the 
day ? Some directions as suggested by the 
foregoing questions will help an amateur.— 
J. M. C. 


THE FINEST STRAINS OFFERED. 

HENDER’S PETUNIAS. 

Single need produces nearly all striped and rrottled flowers 
of lovely colours. Doubles beautifully fringed. 

Single, 2 j. per packet; Double, 3s. 6d 

HENDER’S BALSAMS. 

Eight varieties. sep uate. 2s. 6d. 

HENDER k SONS, Nursery. Plymouth. 


lV/rARVEL.— The new violet-f cented seedling 
1YL Pansy, continual bloomer, great note.ty, 6d. each, or 
not lew ttaau one d *en. 5 j *1.-1 he Norfolk Chromdf ,. in 
r«oort of Nor'olk and Norwich Hor ioultural show, June. 
1883 niy». “ Mr Rowland, of St. Clements Hill, showed a 
basket of violet-econted seedling Panama (purple) which p r- 
ftimed the whole tent, and ought to prove a little fortune to 
the lucky cultivator."—H. ROWLAND. Clarence Nurseries, 
fct Clements Rill. New Patton, Norwich. 


'DRIER SEED, saved from sturdy Briers, for 
D pose budding, Is. per okt.; Mercury used, an e r cellent 
vegetable, la. per pkt.; Cress aeed, extra large curled leaf 
mild, excellent for salads. ML per pkt.; Parsley a^ed.Giant 
Curled, well adapted for garnishing, 6d. per pkt ; Brompton 
Stocks, plants 18 inchei high, warranted double, ; 

Foxgloves, large plants. Is. doz, all free —J. W. ANDER- 
SO N. Gardener. Lon * S utton, Lincolnshire _ 


ftHOICE FLO WEE SEED3, 18 packeta, in- 

U eluding 0 hard. Perennials, with cultural direct ions, in 
pictorial packets, free, lor Is. 6<L ; Single Dahlia, named, or 
la choicest mixture. Primula, Caxeolari*. Cineraria, Stocks, 
Asters, and all other seeds in Sd„ 6d , and Is. packets. Lists 
free.—J. SYLVESTER. Idle, Bradford. 


TAPAOER1A ROSEA KUPlKBA, heal toy 
tin .11 i.'ants, li. 61 each ; Lllmm g'gartcum, ( esh seed 
(growth 1813) offered ot the above mijestic special, at Is, 
U 6d and 2s tj.i. per packet; Primula stneosis fimbriata 
Chiswick Red. 1 b„ Is 6d. per picket; put free; cash with 
Order.-JOHN LEMAN, Olantigh Nursery, Pudding Lane, 
Oh ! g veil R tw. Eisex . 


TR1SH ANEMONES.—Now i- the time to sow 
J- for autumn and winter ti ,wen Seed saved from the 
beat strain in the world, tamo aa shown by ua at Manchester 
last May. single, mixed finest colours, le. bi. and U. 6d. pkt ; 
d“uldA mixed, extra colour a, 2a 6d. pkt Full imt notions 
as to soil manure, preparation of Broun i. time to sow, et j., 
with each I'iicket.—RODGER. MoCI.BLI.4ND jko OO . 

N ewry. T « __ 

jypAW’ri accurate self registering THERMO- 


_ METER, for garden, 

pi reels post, Is 3d-—MAW, £ 
F.W. 


reenhouse, or frame. Is. 
Haylaida Road, London, 


T)UFL»AKd, Lombardy and Balsam Hire a, 8yca- 
X more, Limes, from 13 feet to 18 feet high, 90s. per dozen, 
free on nil at Tu'te Hill station.—HoPKINti A CO., 
Houndsditch. 


DEEDS of Beautiful Climbers.—12 varieties 

O for garden decoration. 2s. fid. ; 12 for greenhouse. 3s. M.; 
or six of'eaoh, 3e. Bee linta, fiee.—J. SYLVEaTKR. Idle, 

Bradford. ________ 

flHOICE VEGETABLE fcEEDS.—12 most 
\J useful, Is. 2d., free ; collections also. 2s 6d., 6a., 7a. 6d-, 
«n1103 . including Pea* and Beans ; quality unsur pa s s ed — 
j. SYLVE STER. Idle. Br adford. _ 

TUBEROSE THE PEARL. — A beautiful 

X dwarf variety, splendid roots, three for Is. 6d. ; 5a. per 

doz • Lily of the Valley, Giant Berlin crowns, all sore to 
flower, 25, 2a.; 100. 7s.. all free-J. SYLVESTER. Idle, 
Bradford.___ 

fllANT COCKADE RANUNCULCJS.-Plant 
\J at once: flowtrs as double as the finest Rose, 25 roots, 
2 l 3d.; Persian, all colours 50, Is 9d.: 100, 3a. 6d.; Turban 
same price ; Anemones, double and single, fulgens. apennlna 
*c from 6d to 2s 6d. per doz.: 80. all kinds. 3s. 6d., all 

fi ee.-J. 8YLVE9TER Idle, Bradford. _ 

T APAOERIA ALBA (true), 18 inches, 7s.; 

XI 30 inches. 9a.; 60 inches, 12s. 6d. each. L. roaea, 12 to 

18 Inches, 1*. 4d. ; Aquilegia glanduiosa. true blooming sire, 
throe Is. 3d. : Deutzla gracilis, six Is. Id. ; do. double, four. 
Is. ■ Honeysuckle. Bcarlot, do. white, four. Is. 2d.; Paui 
flora, four. Is. 2d ; Silrer Ivy. three. Is. ; Vinca elogantia- 
sima. mx. Is ; aU frea —HENRY A OO. _ 

inn ORNAMEN T A L FLOWERING 

1UU SHRUBS and CONIFERS, from 6 inches (o 
3 feet, carriage paid. 7a. ; half lot, 4a. : including OupreMua, 
juuipera. Pinna, Picea, Holliea, Berberis, 4o.—HENRY A 
n O-- Holmar Nursery, Aroersham, Bucks. _ 

KTOVELTIES from Mexico and the Cape.- 
Xl Pancratium caribseum, do. spectabile, two. Is. 3d.; 
Begonia diversicolor argentea, do do. rubra, two, la. Zd.: 
Cyolobothere flava. three, la. 2d.; Mills biHore, three, Is. 2d.; 
Ornithogalum gracilis, pure white, splendid novelty, mardy, 
forces well, lasts in bloom 6 weeks, two, Is.; six. 2s. 6d.; or « 
doz.; Hyaclnthus candlcans, six, la. Id.; Ohriatmas Roses, 
six, is. Sd.; all free.—HENRY A OO., Holm ex Nursery, 
A me rah am, Buoks. _ 


P IS K.EMPFERI (the Japanese Clematia-like 

flowered Flag Iris).- Unbloomed seedlings from finest 
named kinds in great variety of this, the most magnificent of 
the Iris tribe, quite hardy, with flowers b *nchea to 8 inche* 
in diameter. We hold a large stock, and offer Btrong-bloom- 
ing plants at the very chsap rate of 2s. per dozen, 10a. per 
100, 75*. per 1000. LILIUM*: Candldum, white, 3s per 
dozen ; Grooeum. orange, 2s. 6<L per dozen; Chalcedonicum, 
scarlet (Turk'a-cap), 5s. per dozen ; all hardy and extra large 
home-grown blooming bulbs, much superior to dry imported 
bulbs.* OWN-ROOT ROSE8: Nice well-rooted blooming 
ilants. with shoots 18 Inches to 30 inches Iona, of Hybrid 
Perpetuals and Teas found to suooeed best on own roots, 
7s 6d. per dozen. All carriage and packing free for cash 
with ordav. Catalogues, dt scribing all the best varieties, 
f ree __j. BURRELL A CO , Rose Growers and Nurserymen, 
Howe House Nurseries. C ambrid ge__ 

TDAHLIA JUAREZI 

(THE CACTUS DAHLIA). 

Brilliant scarlet Oactu*-llke double flowers, splendidly 
effective for the garden. Plants from seeds of this beautiful 
variety sown in spring will commence blooming in July, and 
continue in flower until killed by the frost. Ohot:e new 
seed per packe t. Is. 6(L, post free. _ 

ZD.A.TSTI'EJLS BROTHBES, 
Royal N orfolk Seed Establishment, Norw ich. 
THE COVERT GARDEN SEEDS.—Send for 

X Hooper’s Catalogue (i llustrated ). 


QEE HOOPER’S CATALOGUE for the best 

O vegetable seeds (illustrat ed). 



T OW PRICES and Carriage Free. — See 

Jj Hooper'. Catalogue (illustrated). 


CEE HOOPER’S CATALOGUE for the choicest 


O flower seeds (illustrated). 


GARDENERS AND AMATEURS. 

vT Hop tier's Catalogue (illustrated)._ 


—Send for 


T OVERS OF GLADIOLI. 

XJ loguc (illustrated In colours)^ 


-See Hooper’s Cata- 


HOOP EE’S CATALOGUE, price 4d., which is 

Xl returned in the first purchase.—HOOPER k OO., 
Covent Garden, London 


PHRYSANTHEMUM CUTTINGS from 300 
VJ selected vars ; 12 var*., a pair of eaoh for Is. 2d ; rooted 
cuttings, Is. 3d. doz.-W. PUtiEY, High Street, Chichester.^ 


•* T SOWED yonr Little Queen Cos Lettuce last 
X February in gentle heat, and was cutting them outside 
before I transplanted my spring sown.” Jefferies’ Little 
Queen Cos Lettuce. Is. per packet. Very early, very heavy, 
very sm a’l —JNO. JEFFERIES k SONS, Ciren cester. _ 


MEW ZONAL PELARGONIUMS,2j. per doz. 
Il not to be surpassed at any prioe, in 2C0 select sorts, 
not named. Is. dozen; Fuchsias, is. dozen, are a treat; 
Cucumber seeds, 25 is. ; H&brothamnus^lumbago. FuchBia 
splendens, and Red Gloire, 6d. each.—W. WOODHOUSE, 

Ru ssell R oad. Leyton, E s sex _ _ 

WANTED, a largo plant of Magnolia for wall. 
II Any height above 6 feet.—8end price to E. J. DAY 
Banwell Castle. Somerset. _ 


MEW double white Herbaceous Phlox, Alpha, 
li the finest flower in cultivation, 5 j. 6i. free. Stook 
limited.—O. KING, Florist. Eldon House, Kensington Road. 
Bed land, Bristol. I 9529 


TUSSILAGO FRAGRANS (the winter Helio- 

X rope), see Gardening. No 254; strong crowns. 8d. 
per dozVfree.—Rev. J. Q«AVK8, S tonyfoid, Oo. [Kilkenny. 


SCOTCH 
SPECIALITIES. 

ENGLISH GROWERS 

Should always remember that the BEST RESU LTS we 
obtained with Seed trom a LATER DISTRICT. 

The following ipecialitie. having all been lavedipcdally 
for me IN SCOTLAND, by moat reliable and experienced 
growers, trom the purest atocka and beet strains to cul¬ 
tivation, are certain to give great satisfaction, and both 
for general and exhibition purpotea are not to be excelled. 

per ox.—a. d. 

BEET, Priie Stock . 10 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS, extra _ .. 

BBOOCOU, Grange’s Early . 

Addison's Midwinter 
,, Gordon'! Lete.. — — 

CABBAGE, Dwarf York. 

„ McEw&n’s, true .. .. ... 

extra early. The earliest 

of all Cabbages . 

CURLED GREENS, extra fine „ 

LEEK, Musselburgh, true .. .. ... 

Henry's Prize, true, unsnrpaased for ex¬ 
hibition, per packet 6<L 

PARSLEY, Edinburgh prize . 

SAVOY, extra fine stock. 

TURNIP, Golden Ball, hardier, finer in texture, 
and superior in flavour to the English 
saved . 

FLOWER SEEDS. 

per packet—a. d 

AURICULA, Alpine .la A " ■ 

MARIGOLD, African Lemon . 

„ Orange .. .. — 

„ French striped .. .. .. 

J D begs special attention to this strain of 
'French Marigold, which has been saved by 
a celebrated Amateur Florist who took up¬ 
wards of 20 first prizes during the past year 
at the leading shows in Scotland, where Ma¬ 
rigolds are said to be shown to perfection. 

PANSY, choice, show. - 1»- * 

fancy.• #. •• .. la. « 

” Saved from myflne collection of named 

varieties. 

POLYANTHUS, Q old-laced, extra 

STOCK, East Lothian, Scarlet, true 
Purple, „ 

” ” White .. 

Crimson „ 

” Ml gaved from Two-year-old plants. 
SWEET WILLIAM, extra line. 

FREE PER POST. 


0 4 


Pansy SEED, best possible quality ; sow now 
X for summer end autumn blooming ; seed saved from 
fine collections, 7 L end Is. packet, post free.-EDWARD 
HALL. Florist. Methley Perk. Leeds 


TOR SALE, Buttons’ Reading Hero Potatoes, 
X £6 per tou ; delivered free within 12 mile*.—Apply to 




*6 per i 
, NOTT, 


Aldbury Farm. Cheabunt. 


6 

0 t 
0 C 
1 0 


1 0 
1 I 

1 0 

1 0 
1 o 

0 6 


JOHN D0WNIE, 

SEEDSMAN, 

144, FRINGES ST., EDINBTJBSH. 


*S ,e 












GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. V. 


FRUIT. 

CULTURE OF PEACHES AND NECTARINES. 
These are rightly becoming more popular, pro¬ 
prietors of comparatively small gardens es¬ 
pecially becoming alive to the fact that these 
delicious fruits can be both easily and profitably 
grown. It is a general complaint that mid-season 
Grapes have of late years greatly decreased in 
value, and that those who have been in the habit 
of selling their superfluous bunches find a 
material falling off in the income thus derived. 
On the other hand, Peaches and Nectarines, 
whether they ripen early, mid-season, or late, 
still realise remunerative prices—at least such is 
my experience, and that, too, in a provincial 
town ; a few trees may, therefore, well replace 
some of the Grape Vines where these are grown 
to excess. It will be found that they may be 
grown with or without fire heat, in any shape 
and in almost any form of house. They will 
succeed trained to the back walls of lean-to and 
half-span houses, while more may be trained to 
semi-circular trellises in the front of the house; 
or a trellis may be dispensed with and the trees 
grown as standards or bush-shaped. They will 
thrive admirably and ripen fruit in abundance 
when trained to trellises fixed at right angles 
with the front or across the house, and are 
equally satisfactory grown under widely planted 
Grape Vines ; in fact, I should say, and 1 do not 
speA without experience, that the most profit¬ 
able fruit house would be a combination of 
vinery and Peach house. At the same time too 
much muBt not be expected of them, and a little 
judgment should be exercised when planting. 
I was recently consulted as to what was the 
matter with some Peach and Nectarine trees on 
the back wall of a vinery, and I bad to insist 
upon the necessity of growing fewer Vines, or 
the growth of the Peaches could not possibly 
ripen. Strong rods furnished with spars about 
6 inches apart and disposed 3 feet asnnder are 
too close even for Grapes alone, but by thinning 
out the rods and spurs so as to bring the 
former about 5 feet apart, the weight of Grapes 
grown need not be greatly diminished, while the 
quality would be much improved, and a good 
crop of Peaches and Nectarines might thus be 
easily secured. 

Planting Peaches and Nectabines in 
houses at present, unless exclusively devoted to 
them, is not advisable, especially if the trees 
have to be purchased. We usually plant the 
young trees when first received against an open 
south wall, and enconrage them by mnlching, 
syringing, and watering, as required, to form 
handsome treee well furnished with bearing 
wood. They are transplanted into the houses in 
autumn when in full leaf. At this time root 
action ia most vigorous, and moving, when care¬ 
fully performed, only interrupts this for a time. 
Our trees are thus well established before the fall 
of the leaf, while the growth ripens thoroughly 
under glass. Young trees brought in from the 
open walls last antumn are now in full bloom, 
and we shall crop them rather heavily, or they 
will grow more luxuriantly than is required. If 
I wished to rapidly cover a wall or trellis in a 
heated house I should unhesitatingly lay in the 
requisite |amount of lateral growth which the 
strong early shoots inevitably develop, as these 
wonld ripen and fruit freely the following season. 
Honses have been filled in an extraording short 
short time by simply avoiding the use of the knife. 
Artificial fertilization, in the case of early 
and second early Peaches and Nectarines, I 
have always thought advisable, and since the 
introduction of the new and very early large- 
flowered varieties, such as Early Eeatrice, 
Hale’s Early, and Early Alexander Peaches, and 
Lord Napier and Pine-apple Nectarines, it has 
become absolutely necessary. Botanists rightly 
inform us that the more showy the bloom the 
greater the certainty of indifferent fructification, 
and that is really the case with regard to large- 
tiowering Peaches and Nectarines, which under 
glass must be artificially assisted, and where at 
this time of year is assistance to come from if 
not from those to whose care the trees are 
entrusted ? Such good ol(J varieties a? Royal 

Digged by GOOgle 


FEBRUARY 16, 1884. 


George, Violette Hative, and Rellegarde Peaches, 
and Elruge, Balgowan, and Downton Nec¬ 
tarines, with their closely-packed and pollen¬ 
laden stamens, might be set by means of the 
air circulated by the heated pipes or a breath 
of wind, and probably a smart tap of the 
branches is oftentimes sufficient to secure a set; 
but the case is different where the stamens are 
widely apart, as in the large-fiowered kinds. 
Even, however, with the free setters we ought 
always to feel assured of a good even set, and 
if the result is great quantities of small fruit to 
remove, that is better than an insufficiency, or 
perhaps a sufficiency disposed in inconvenient 
positions. A worse season than this for setting 
early Peaches and Nectarines we could not have, 
yet I find we have abundance of fruit swelling 
on all the above-mentioned large-fiowerit g 
varieties. This was t fleeted by simply passing 
a rabbit's tail, tied to a stick, lightly over all 
the fully expanded blossoms about the middle 
of each day. By fully expanded blooms I mean 
those with anthers covered with golden pollen, 
and this, being in a dry state, is easily passed 
on to the moist stigma of the pistil. Varieties 
deficient in pollen are fertilised with that of 
those abundantly laden, and by these means a 
generally good set is secured. I am aware that 
the use of the rabbit's tail is not original, but 
of the many methods which I have tried, in¬ 
cluding the introduction of a hive of bees, it 
proves the simplest, and on the whole most 
satisfactory way of doing what is desired. A 
camel-hair brash was at one time preferred 
for the purpose, but though sure in effect, it is 
Blow in operation. As a rule we only fertilise 
those flowers that are placed in a position 
favourable for the production of large-sized 
highly-coloured fruit. All other flowers are 
rubbed off. I um an advocate of and practice 
Disbudding early, and follow this np care¬ 
fully in order to dispense with the knife as much 
as possible. To defer disbudding till the fruits 
are as large as Peas I consider altogether a 
mistake. Peaches and Nectarines break freely 
throughout any length of young growth, and by 
disbudding early, leaving those buds only where 
we require a shoot to lsy in for fruiting next 
season, and those where a fruit is to swell we 
naturally insure for ourselves a good start. The 
latter I term “ fruit swellers," and they are 
stopped early, leaving about six good leaves. 
When disbudding, should the fruit’Dg wood be 
weakly, with probably a wood bud at each 
extremity, the growth from the latter is allowed 
to extend for a short time, when it is stopped at 
about the fourth joint, and this is sufficient to 
swell the fruit, while the stopping strengthens 
the otherwise weakly shoot starting from the 
base. In the case of medium-sized and well- 
ripened growth, this being shortened to about 
12 inches and at a triple bud, the leading shoot 
is allowed to extend, while another is preserved 
at the base and eventually laid in. Long, well- 
ripened shoots we frequently lay in to a length 
of 30 inches, and these are disbudded so as to 
have three branches to lay in—one at each end 
and one in the middle. It will be seen we do 
not lay in mnch growth—in fact, crowding is 
avoided—nothing, to say the least, being gained 
by it. Most of our young growth is laid in on 
the npper side of the main branches, thus mnch 
simplifying the training, but occasionally it is 
advisable to depart from this rale rather than 
have a blank. Hard and fast rales, as regards 
training, are not now-a-days so strictly observed 
as they used to be. Wbat little pruning we find 
necessary is completed in the autumn, and before 
the foliage is off. Fbuit Grower. 


10947.— Pruning vines — Do not leave 
the pruning until the vineB show the bunches, as 
you propose, or you will make matters worse. 
They should be pruned at once. Prune back to 
within two eyes of last season's growth, and to 
make Bure do not disbud them nntil the bunches 
show. If the two eyes break and the lowest 
one shows a good bunch, mb off the npper shoot 
altogether. You should get some practical gar¬ 
dener to show yon how to prune and disbnd 
them — J. Robertson. 


No. 258. 


10972 — Young Grape vines.— Yon do 
not say the diatance apart at which your vines 
are planted. They ought during last season’s 
growth to have made strong canes, which wonld 
produce fruit this year. If they are planted less 
than three feet apart, one cane will be sufficient 
to train np from each. If wider you must train 
up sufficient shoots to allow a cane to each 2 
feet 6 inches or 3 feet. In a house 18 
feet long there wonld be room for seven canes at 
2 feet 6 inches apart and 1 foot 6 inches 
from each end of the house, but I would not 
plant more in a 20 feet bouse. I would prefer 
having the canes 3 feet apart.—J.D E. 


VEGETABLES. 


COLLARDS (COLEWORTS). 

These are most useful vegetables, and always to 
the fore, even when other varieties ate killed or 
damaged by frost. Useful, however, as they are, 
they are, as a rule, but seldom grown either by 
amateurs or cottagers, while with market 
gardeners they form one of their principal winter 
crops. The Rosette is the best kind for early 
crops, as it forms compact heads early in the 
autnmn.and keeps in good condition forsome time 
afterwards. The hardy green Colewort seldom 
hearts like the Rosette, the leaves being loose and 
more spreading, and it is somewhat less tender 
when cooked. It ia, however, very hardy, and 
will be found to be a desirable sort to grow for 
winter and spring use, and it seldom runs to 
seed. 

Cultivation.— Ground that has been cropped 
with Peas comes in well for this crop, and some¬ 
times an old Strawberry bed which has been de¬ 
stroyed after the fruit has been picked, deeply 
trenched and well manured, will be fonnd to 
produce good crops of Coleworte; the ground, 
being well rested, will be sure to produce plants 
free lrom club. The ground for this crop should 
be deeply trenched if not done for the previous 
crop. Let the soil be moved from 2 feet to 2j 
feet in depth, working into it plenty of rotten 
stable manure as the trenching proceeds. If not 
trenched it mast be deeply dug, so that the 
manure may be buried well down, which encour¬ 
ages the roots to ran deep in search of food and 
moisture, an important consideration especially 
in hot dry weather. Thus treated, they will 
require to be but seldom watered, while crops 
growing upon ground slightly dug will be 
suffering from want of moisture. Ground for the 
seed beds will often be fonnd to be dry and hard; 
when dug, should such be the case, give its good 
watering through a coarse-rosed watering-pot the 
day previous to sowing the seeds, otherwise they 
seldom germinate until rain comes. This course 
of treatment will be found better than frequent 
waterings after the reed is sown, as waterings 
form a hard crust difficult for the seedlings to get 
through. Two sowings should be made, the 
produce from which will carry one through the 
winter, furnishing a good supply from the time 
late Cabbages are finished till the early crop is fit 
for use. After thoroughly preparing the ground, 
the first sowingshould be made in the second week 
in May, using the Rosette, which will come in 
early in the autumD. The second or main crop 
should be sown in the second or third week in J nne 
to come in in good time for winter use. Sow some 
soot and lime upon the beds as soon as the seed¬ 
lings appear above ground, which will prevent the 
roots from clubbing. When large enough piepare 
a piece of ground and prick them into it 4 inches 
apart, when they will grow short and stocky be¬ 
fore being planted in their permanent quarters. 
Dust occasionally with soot, which will help to 
destroy insects, which often injure the yonng 
plants, eating their hearts out, when they will 
be found to be of but little use. When large 
enough to plant out and the ground is ready for 
them, plant in rows 12 inches apart and 9 inches 
plant frem plant. Hoe fieqnently between the 
rows to keep down weeds, and if thought de¬ 
sirable hce into the ground deeply seme arti¬ 
ficial manure, which will he found to be beneficial 
to the growth of the plants; or liquid manure 
may be applied with success, using it once a 
week when the plants are in full growth. 







570 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Feb. 16, 1884. 


Earth up slightly to keep them firm at the 
roots, when little more will be required until 
the crop is fit to cut. 

Varieties. —Use, as I have said, the Rosette, 
an early hearting variety, which produces finely 
flavoured heads when cooked, and also the Hardy 
Green Colewort, a hardy variety, which produces 
medium sized heads, which are very useful as 
winter greens. V?. C. 


RAISING ASPARAGUS FOR FORCING. 

I like youDg plants best for forcing; they seem 
more vigorous, and require lest heat to start 
them than older ones. Where much Asparagus 
has to be forced it is best to make the raising of 
the plants for forcing a separate affair, distinct 
from the beds or trenches kept to supply the 
table in spring. The ground for sowing the seed 
should be prepared now by manuring and deep 
digging or trenching. If the soil is of a clayey 
character, it must be opened, either by adding 
something to it, or by burning a part of it. The 
latter plan is not adopted so often as it might 
be, though there is no better—or, may I add, 
cheaper—way of warming and opening up 
heavy, cold clays. Six inches of the ashes from 
burnt clay spread over the surface will have a 
lasting effect, rendering land difficult to cul¬ 
tivate, and upon which some things only 
lingered, fertile and capable of carrying every 
crop usually cultivated in a garden. The roots 
of Asparagus plants have not the power of 
making their way in heavy, unworked soil; they 
are gouty looking, and lack the penetrating 
power of the roots of most plants. Hence the 
importance of thoroughly breaking up the soil 
and making it light by mixing with it plenty 
of burnt or charred earth. The seeds should be 
sown thinly in March when the land is in a well 
pulverised condition. Sow in drills 1 inch deep, 
and. instead of dropping in the seeds all along 
the drill, place them in little patches 1 foot 
apart, 3 seeds in a patch. The drills should be 
3 feet apart. When the young plants are up, 
and it can be seen which are taking the lead, 
take away all the plants but one, leaving, of 
course, the strongest. There is an advantage 
in having a power of selection, as some seeds, 
and the plants springing from them, possess 
more power from the first than others. A 
little artificial manure is a help if we are con¬ 
tending against time ; either guano or super¬ 
phosphate may be employed, scattering it along 
the drills when the seeds are sown. The first year 
nothing but cleanly culture will be necessary. A 
row of Lettuces or Spinach may be grown be¬ 
tween the rows in summer, and in winter they 
should receive a mulching of good manure, and the 
spaces between the rows should be forked up 
roughly, though not, of course, to injure or expose 
the roots. Under very liberal culture, three-year- 
old roots from the seeds may be forced; and plants 
that have not been transplanted usually have 
the strongest crowns, as they have grown on un¬ 
checked. There are several ways of forcing, 
but scarcely anybody who has secured good 
strong Asparagus can fail to make it grow. A 
steady temperature at the roots of about 75°, 
with some 10° less in the atmosphere (whioh 
should be of a genial character) will grow 
Asparagus of the best quality. Where there is 
plenty of strong roots, the best plan is to make 
up gentle hotbeds of leaves and manure in 
succession. Place the roots as thickly as they 
will stand on the top, and cover with 2 inches or 
3 inches of light, rich soil. Place in the centre 
of the bed a stick, to tell the temperature, and 
mat up the frame till the heads of the At paragus 
are pushing through. The frame must then be 
uncovered daily, and air must be given on mild 
days. Asparagus may be forced in pans, pots, 
or boxes, and these may, until growth has com¬ 
menced, be placed in the Mushroom house, as 
light is quite unnecessary till growth appears 
above ground. Weak, tepid manure water should 
be given when necessary ; and at least a soak¬ 
ing should be given when the roots are placed 
in the frame, in order to settle the soil around 
them. The first batch that is forced in the au¬ 
tumn should have the tops cut off early, in order 
to send the plants to rest. E. 


10930.— Tomatoes In vineries. —Unless 
the vines are a long way apart, so that the light 
can penetrate freely to all parts of the house. 
Tomatoes will do but>little good, for they are 
sun loving subjects, aud|ir make 


plenty of leaves but very little fruit, and I 
should decidedly advise " Love Apple,” or any¬ 
one similiarly situated, to utilise back walls of 
vineries for the growth of flowers, as many 
most beautiful plants grow freely in a shade 
more or less dense, but very few fruits are satis¬ 
factory unless they get the benefit of direct sun¬ 
light. As regards the best plants for shaded 
walls, I may mention Camellias, that are sure to 
repay the trouble they entail as well as. any 
plant grown, either for the use of a private 
family or as a market crop ; and if the vines are 
6 feet apart Roses of the Tea and climbing 
sorts, such as Marechal Niel, Gloire de Dijon, 
and similar sorts, would prove a remunerative 
and safe investment. But the Tomatoes I should 
advise being grown by themselves in narrow 
span-roof houses, or pits, planting a row of 
plants along each side and training them up close 
to the glass, keeping the shoots thin and evenly 
distributed. This is a good time to commence 
their culture by sowing the seed in a gentle 
bottom-heat, such as a Cucumber frame, and as 
soon as the plants are large enough plant out in 
position at once, running them up with sipgle 
stems, and as they make little side shoots pinch 
out the points beyond each bunch of fruits. As 
regards varieties, I find Hathaway's Excelsior a 
good reliable kind, also the Conqueror, and 
Yicks’s Criterion. Do not give over-stimulating 
soil or manure water until the crop is swelling, 
but after that they will require liberal top dress¬ 
ings and plenty of liquid food to keep them in 
good health, and with plonty of heat, light, and 
liberal treatment few plants are so productive 
as the Tomato.— James Groom, Qotport. 

- If the Vines are far apart and trained 

with single stems. Tomatoes should do well 
enough on the back wall. Do not plant them 
out, but grow them in 10-inch pots. When 
potting into the fruiting pots, do not use any 
drainage, but instead use half-rotten manure. 
Make up a ridge along the bottom of the wall of 
rotten manure and turfy loam in equal parts 
2 feet wide and 6 inches thick, on the top of 
this place the pots. The roots after filling the 
pots will soon run into the ridge of soil, and 
liberal waterings with manure water will keep 
them going all summer. They will fruit better 
in that way than if planted out. If you wanted 
flowers, Camellias would do well planted out in 
a prepared border, also the red and white Lapa- 
gerias, Heliotrope, Tea Roses, Hoya carnosa, 
Abutilons, Fuchsias, Luculia gratissima, Habro- 
thamnus elegans, and the common Myrtle. 
With fair management, you may have a good 
collection of flowering plants on the back wall 
of your vinery.— J. Robertson. 


HOUSE AND WINDOW GAEDENING. 

PRIMROSES FOR POT CULTURE. 

A very interesting communication on the 
“ Window Garden in London ” appeared in a 
recent number of Gardening (January 12th, 



Primula rosea. 


No. 263), which goes far to prove, with others 
of the same tendency, how much public atten¬ 
tion is being directed at the present time to this 
subject in every possible aspect. Window 
gardening in London is, no doubt, one of the 
hardest of all gardening knots to untie, but such 
letters Berve to show that there are persons who 
find pleasure and recreation in successfully 
untying it. I should like to be permitted to 
l touch upon one point in the letter referred to, 
in which the writer says, speakir g of Geraniums 
I thus grown, that " they may be renewed by 


cuttings, or keeping the old plants, or buying 
fresh each year, which as they are so cheap is 
perhaps the easiest, but I prefer the former, as 
that is part of the pleasure." Again, with refer¬ 
ence to Auriculas, it is said, “ These may easily 
be raised from seed, and give amusement and 
certain reward every year.” I cannot help 
thinking that herein lies the secret of success¬ 
ful indoor gardening jn towns. 1. That the 
gardener should take a delight in the trouble 
involved, and 2, that plants to be grown in a 
window should be reared in or about a window, 
and should not be translated from the luxuries 
of the glasshouse to the bare necessities of 
plant life in a dwelling room. We are all glad 



Common Primrose (Primula vulgaris). 


to shirk, if may be, the patient waiting for re¬ 
sults, hence the temptation to buy plants “ all 
a-growing, all a-blowing,” to what end those 
who are in the habit of doing it can testify. 
Reasoning from analogy, common sense would 
seem to indicate that those who truly desire to 
grow a few flowers as well as circumstances will 
permit, should rear them from the first in the 
atmosphere and position in which they have to 
remain. If ttiis be done with intelligent care, 
a certain amount of success must surely follow. 

I watch daily with as great an interest as the 
captive watched his precious plant which grew 
up, unlooked for, in a crevice of his prison wall, 
a minute seedling which sprang up spontane¬ 
ously in a flower-pot standing in an ordinary 
London window. It has known no other cir¬ 
cumstance of light, or warmth, or air, and it 
grows. I see no difference in its progress, so far, 
from that of hundreds of other seedlings which 
I have raised and watched, and there Beems 
to be no reason why it should not continue to 
thrive. 

The above mention of Auriculas suggests 
that a passing notioe may be useful of some 
others of the same family, viz.. Primroses, with 
special regard to their capabilities as window 
and pot plants. Naturally, 

Our native Primroses come first on the 
list. Early in the year as it is, clumps of wild 
Primroses, in bloom, abound in Covent Garden, 
and are carried about the streets, and we see 
them in balconies, in window boxes, in areas— 
everywhere bringing a breath of spring with 
them, which cannot but be welcome. But con¬ 
trast a clump as it figures in the window with 
the same growing in the mossy bank, or wild 
wood, from whence it has been taken. Its leaves 
are broken, its flowers and buds, brought a little 
closer to the eye, are seen to be rent and 
soiled, and it has the folorn look of a plant torn 
from its home. For it has been moved at a 
wrong time. Two months ago it might have 
been lifted with impunity, and would then 
have been able to recover itself, but the ruth¬ 
less digging up of plants in flower can never 
be attended with real success. Primroses of all 
sorts, with few exceptions, can be readily raised 
from seed, and seedlings make, in due time, 
shapely plants, which, with a fair allowance of 
care, will flower profusely, having none of the 
ragged appearance of the roots grubbed np out 
of season. Take for example those called hybrid, 
or by some 

Polyanthus Primroses, which are merely 
coloured forms and variations of our native 
species. Their peculiarity consists in the first 
flowers cf the clump being borne on single 
stalks like ordinary Primroses, while, later on 


Fes. 16, U84.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


571 


the flowers grow in umbels, like those of the 
Oxlip or Pol) an thus. A small packet of seed of 
a good Btrain (far too much for a window gar¬ 
dener to sow at one time, but it can be shared 
with a friend) will give an infinite variety of 
form and colour, from the darkest ohocolate 
through crimson to pink, with every shade of 
yellow and lilac. For those who possess the 
luxury of a glazed window box, no flowers could 
be more seasonable or more suitable in these 
first early months of the year. The shelter of 
the glass will keep their bright colours pure and 
free from London smuts, and give them just so 
much protection from wind and weather as they 
need to prolong their beauty. For this purpose 
Hybrid Primroses will be found more satisfactory 
than the Chinese Primulas commonly used, 
which are tender, and require a certain amount 
of heat to make them thrive. These coloured 
Primroses have the advantage of being perfectly 
hardy, therefore they are just as suitable when 
the window box happens not to be glazed as 
when it does. 

Seedling plants raised early will bloom the 
first season, but are at their best the second 
year; and they give very little trouble. Every 
raiser of Primroses knows from experience that 
the seed, to ensure quick germination, should be 
sown as soon as ripe, for if it remains unsown 
until the spring, it is apt to come up by fits and 
starts, and a good deal of it will probably lie 
dormant for a whole year. It is not always pos¬ 
sible, unfortunately, to procure it so soon as 
it is ripe, but it should be sown with as little 
delay as may be, very thinly, in a small, well 
drained seed-pan or pot. Should a bell glass or 
tumbler, or even a bit of broken pane be at band, 
it will be well to place it over the seed pan, as 
it is important to keep the surface of the soil 
always moist. The pot being set inside the 
window, in due time the seedlings will appear, 
and for a window gardener, a pan of Primrose 



seedlings may be as interesting as a whole gar¬ 
den, for it is pretty to watch the gradual develop¬ 
ment of the miniature crumpled leaves. By and 
by, when large enough to handle, they must be 
pricked off, either singly or three in a pot, as 
most convenient. As soon as the young plants 
can bear it, as much air as possible should be 
admitted, or on every suitable day they may be 
placed outside on a window ledge or balcony. 
The plants must be shifted on as they require 
it into larger pots — the largest need 
not be more than a 6-inch size. All through the 
summer, they should be placed in a moderately 
shady place outside, and kept carefully watered, 
as all Primroses dislike drought. In the winter 
and early spring, the first buds will begin to 
show, and if it should be preferred to bloom 
them indoors rather than to place them in the 
window box, a cool room should be chosen where 
a fire is not constantly burning, and where gas 
is not used. For Primroses are hardy things, and 
resent a close, dry temperature. It is true that 
none but those who have a gardening instinct 
strongly developed will care to take so much 
troub e, but it is presumed that all whp care to 
read a gardening paperihave that instiiipl ; n some 
degree. It was only the krther dayitllakJ wa> 


told of a London bred Primrose, which had been 
given to a friend as a sample of what can be 
grown in the heart of the busy metropolis. But 
suburban window gardeners will find the raising 
of Primroses an easier task, possibly, than the 
Londoner, especially where there is a bay-window 
at command in a cool room, which, if rightly 
managed, is as good in its way as a small green¬ 
house. There are four species of Primroses which 
may be tried as window plants, with a fair pros¬ 
pect of success. 

Primula VEETICILLATA.— This, which is 
known as the Abyssinian Primrose, is a yellow- 
flowered species, very distinct on account of 
the white meal which covers its entire foliage, 
and gives it a silvery or frosted appearance. 
Though it is too tender to bear our English 
winters, it should be allowed plenty of air. It 
stands out of doors with me throughout the 
summer. The plant should be watered at the 
root, and not from above, otherwise the some¬ 
what succulent bases of the leaves are apt to 
damp off, which soon affects the whole plant. 
The pot should stand in a saucer, which should 
be supplied with water when required. The fact 
of its growing naturally on the banks of rivulets 
seems to point to the need of moisture at the 
root, but water must not be allowed to stand in 
the saucer for more than half an hour at a time. 
This species succeeds best as a pot plant, and I 
can remember a record appearing some years 
ago in one of the gardening journals of its suc¬ 
cessful culture in a London window. It is easily 
raised from seed, and seedlings, well cared for, 
make the finest plants. 

Primul a Sieboldi. —This fine Primrose grows 
wild in Japan, but is said to be also a favourite 
plant for cultivation by the Japanese. Though 
perfectly hardy, it is better adapted for pot cul¬ 
ture than for growing in the border, for two 
reasons. After blooming, the leaves die down, 
and it disappears entirely, and in that dormant 
condition its root stock is very apt to be 
turned up and thrown away as worthless. 
Also, the texture of its hairy leaves and 
large drooping flowers is so thin that they 
are easily disfigured by rough weather, 
and need the shelter of an unheated green¬ 
house, or frame, or window. On the other 
hand, itvery soon gets drawn up and weak, 
if coddled in any degree, therefore it must 
' be allowed as much air at all times as 

possible. There are many beautiful hybrid 
varieties of this handsome Primrose. The 
type has large rosy-purple flowers, shad¬ 
ing off to white towards the centre of the 
petals, which are deeply notched; but 
pure white, lilac, and deep rose colour 
are to be found amongst the named seed¬ 
lings that have been raised. For, like 
moBt others, Siebold’s Primrose may be 
readily raised from seed, but in this in¬ 
stance the window gardener will, on the 
whole, find it more satisfactory to buy a 
plant or two of distinct colours, when 
in bloom, so that he may bo sure of get¬ 
ting those best worth the trouble of cul¬ 
ture. For Siebold’s Primrose Is not a 
fugitive plant, but, with proper care, will 
prove a good stand-by friend, again and 
again returning to welcome anew each 
spring-tide, and increasing in strength and 
beauty with every year. The root stocks, which 
are easily broken up, will require dividing and 
repotting every second year; and make fine 
specimens when eight or ten crowns can be 
allowed to a medium sized pan, which is rather 
to be preferred to a pot, as these plants are 
inclined to be surface rooters. The white 
varieties are, perhaps, not quite so robust in con¬ 
stitution as the coloured. When the leaves die 
down, as they will soon after flowering, the pots 
may stand out-of-doors where they can be 
sheltered a little from the drenching rains. A 
rough box filled with coal-ashes, in which such 
resting plants may be sunk during the summer, 
will be found useful. 

Primula denticulata. — This Himalayan 
species, so named from the indented edges 
of its leaves, is another charming plant for 
pot culture, and can be successfully raised 
from seed. Its pale lavender coloured flowers 
in vigorous specimens form a round head of 
blossom, almost as compact as a Cowslip ball. 
It is perfectly hardy, but blooms so early in the 
year that it is grateful for shelter. P. denticu¬ 
lata is one of those plants which may become 
too robust, and often does so when grown in 


the open border, a fact well known now to 
cultivators, who are returning to the old custom 
of growing it in pots. For this Primrose is by 
no means a novelty, though it seems to have 
taken out a new lease of life as a border plant 
wi thin the last few years. When restricted at 
the root, and under good cultivation, it makes a 
most desirable greenhouse or window plant. 
After flowering, the leaves gradually turn yellow 



and die off, and there remains a dormant bud in 
the centre to develop into the next year’s plant, 
which must not be suffered to perish for want 
of water during the heat of summer. But of all 
Primroses, perhaps the most popular at the pre¬ 
sent moment is 

Primula rosea, another beautiful Hima¬ 
layan species of comparatively recent intro¬ 
duction. Its bright pink flowers and com¬ 
pact habit give it a character of its own, 
unlike that of any other Primrose, and it is 
so hardy and dwarf that it is little affected 
by weather. Its culture is very Bimilar to that 
of the last named, but if in anything it differs, 
it is in succeeding better planted out than when 
grown in a pot; nevertheless, it is quite 
amenable to pot culture, as I have proved. Being 
a true child of the mountain, it is more im¬ 
patient of shelter than any other hardy Prim¬ 
rose with which I am acquainted, a point 
which should be borne in mind in its treatment. 
As yet this Primrose is not much known, but it 
is sure to become popular in time, as it can be 
raised from seed, and seed can now be easily 
obtained. 

These four species of Primroses being very 
distinct one from the other, are all well worthy 
of cultivation in the same garden or window. 
The three first are the best adapted for indoor 
culture; and, in consideration of its dwarf 
habit and extreme hardiness, the rosy Primrose 
might be tried by an intelligent gardener in an 
outside box, either in a window or balcony, with 
fair hope of success. It is not as yet common 
enough to have had many experiments tried 
with it, and it is very possible that this alpine 
gem may rebel against London fogs, but every¬ 
where in all parts of the country one hears of 
its successful cultivation. As to soil, all the 
above Primroses do well in a rather stiff loam, 
with good drainage, to prevent them from get¬ 
ting waterlogged. Wherever Auriculas will 
succeed, these Primroses can also be grown, and 
the chances are that the gardener who once 
takes to their cultivation will remain all his days 
a Primrose lover. K. L. D. 


BOSES. 

10990. — Climbing Boses.— There are 
many Boses which would do well on a south 
wall in the open air. The following I can with 
confidence recommend, viz :—Climbing Devoni- 
ensie (Tea), creamy white; Belle Lyonnaise 
(Tea), deep canary yellow; Gloire de Dijon 
(Tea), buff shaded salmon ; Cheshunt Hybrid 
(Hybrid Tea), cheriy carmine ; Mdlle. Mathilde 
Lenearts (Tea), bright rose shaded white; Heine 
Marie Henriette (Hybrid Tea), red Gloire de 
Dijon; Madame Berard (Tea), buff or fawn 
colour, light salmon tint,; Madame Isaac 
PeriJre (Hybrid Bourbon), vivid carmine, large, 



5/2 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Fbb. lti 1884 


new, and very fine ; Celine Forestier (Noisette), 
pale yellow. It is a difficult matter to select the 
best two ; much depends upon the locality and 
the fancy of the planter as to colour, but Gloire 
de Dijon and Cheshnnt hybrid would succeed 
well almost anywhere. The new Rose Madame 
Isaac Peri6re will be a great favourite when 
more known. The sooner Roses are planted now 
the better ; it is getting late to do any good the 
coming season.— William Walters, Burtmi- 
on-Trent 

10995.— Garden Boses. — The following 
four Hybrid Perpetual Roses will do well where 
Roses can be grown at all:—La France (satin 
pink), General Jacqueminot (ssarlet crimson), 
Boule de Niege (white), Duke of Edinburgh 
(velvety crimson). For two hardy Teas plant 
Gloire de Dijon and Homcre. Madame Lam- 
bard, too, is very beautiful and pretty hardy. 
Several of the Teas of the Gloire de Dijon 
type are useful to plant out of doors, for in¬ 
stance,Madame Berard (buff), Madame Trifle 
(fawn), and Reine Maria Pia (rose colour, new). 
Marechal Niel would not give satisfaction at all 
grown as a window plant; in fact, to so try it 
would be to court failure. Niphetos might pos¬ 
sibly bloom shyly, providing the window was 
suitable, and gas excluded from the room, but 
gre it attention is required to grow ordinary 
plants at all well in the windows of dwelling- 
rooms, and I fear it is too much to expect Roses 
to do any good in such a situation.— William 
Walters. Burton-cm-Trent. 

10933.— Rosea in London areaB.—It is 
useless to attempt to do any good with Roses in 
London. If any variety would grow, it is the 
beautiful Gloire de Dijon, but though you might 
just keep it alive, it would never produce any 
flowers worth having. London smoke and fog 
is simply death to Roses, and much farther out 
than Islington growers are one by one obliged 
to give up the attempt. The Honeysuckle, too, 
is a very doubtful subject in such a position. A 
white Jasmine would far better repay your 
trouble, and fortheRose substitute a good vigorous 
growing Clematis, such as Jackmanni. If you 
do not euoceed with these, even the Virginia 
Creeper and the common Grape vine will alweys 
grow and flourish, and after all they are very 
pretty.—B. C. R. 

10976.—Greenfly on Boeee.— The soft soap win kill 
the irreenfly If you can reach them with It, hut that 
would he difficult in your case. The cleanest and best 
way would he to fumlgato with Tobacco smoke. Soft 
soap doea Injure the flower buda.—J. D. E. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 


shading on sunny days, and they should now be 
occasionally dewed over with the syringe. 

Flower Garden. 

Preparations for summer decoration will now 
need attention. Pelargoniums wintered thickly 
in cutting pots or boxes will require increased 
space ; where crowded together until they are 
planted out, they become weakly and drawn up 
compared with those that are potted off singly, 
and by stopping the leading shoots as soon as 
the plants get well rooted the growth of side 
branches is encouraged, and one good plant 
managed in this way will be found to be more 
satisfactory than treble the number indifferently 
grown or badly rooted. We sometimes dispense 
with pots, and use as a substitute rough Moss 
in which a handful of rich Boil is tied round the 
roots. The plants are then set on the floor of a 
house or pit, and a little light soil is worked in 
amongst them, and kept moderately warm and 
moist. Into this they Bpeedily root through the 
Moss, and may then be transferred to some tem¬ 
porary shelter to be hardened off, finally plant¬ 
ing them with the Moss and the ball of roots 
entire. Calceolarias that bare been kept in cold 
frames through the winter will also be benefited 
by more space ; the best plan to ensure well- 
rooted plants is to spread a layer of from 4 in. 
to G in. of soil on a hard foundation of coal 
ashes, which confine the roots to the soil. If 
transplanted now about 6 in. apart each way, 
and the leading shoots are pinched out, they 
will make good bushy plants by April, when 
they should be finally planted in the position 
which they are to occupy; for unless well rooted 
early in the season. Calceolarias often prove a 
source of vexation by going off ju3t as they 
ought to be coming into flower. By following 
the plan jnst named, however, and keeping them 
at all times as hardy and exposed as possible, 
we find them to be trustworthy free-flowering 
plants. The sort which we like best is Golden 
Gem, a dwarf variety with large massive golden- 
yellow heads of flower that are produced in 
abundance as long as any flowers are to be found 
out-of-doors. 

Lobelias, Verbenas, Alyssums, Tresines, Petu¬ 
nias, and similar plants will now strike freely in 
a brisk moist heat, and as soon as they are well 
rooted they should be moved to lighter and more 
airy quarters to harden preparatory to trans¬ 
planting into boxes, pits, or frames. When the 
latter are available, and the lights can be drawn 
entirely off them during mild days, the work of 
hardening plants is reduced to a minimum. In 
the case of 


Glasshouses 

A very interesting collection of Ferns can be 
formed by means of hardy kinds alone. Where 
these are grown in pots, and have been protected 
during winter in frames, they will now be fast 
swelling up theircrowns, and should be repotted 
before their growth is much advanced. The fine 
crested varieties of Lastrea Filix-mas and the 
beautiful forms of Athyrinm Filix-faemina are 
not easily surpassed by the finest exotic kinds. 
Some of the hardy North American kinds, such 
as Adiantum pedatum and Onoclea sensibilis, 
deserve a place in every collection. The deli¬ 
cate varieties of Cystopteris and the beautiful 
Polypodium cambricum are better for the pro¬ 
tection of a frame in winter. The stove and 
intermediate kinds must now be shaded on 
sunny days, and a humid atmosphere maintained 
in the houses containing them. Ventilate 
cautionsly, as cold draughts act very injuriously 
on the young and tender fronds. Two very 
valuable soft-wooded plants for flowering at this 
season are Eupatorium Wendlandi and Salvia 
gesnerieflora. These should now be assisted 
with weak liquid manure to fully develop their 
fine heads of bloom. A good batch of the 
dauble-flowered Petunias should now be started 
in gentle heat for early summer decoration. 
Mimuluses must now be divided and started in 
frames. The best of these are the varieties of 
M. cupreus and M. moschatus Harrieoni. Hy¬ 
drangeas that have formed their trusses of flower 
must be kept well feil till the blossoms are ex¬ 
panded. Pot off Chrysanthemums, and keep 
them gently moving in cold frames. A late 
batch of cuttings of these should now be In¬ 
serted ; they will prove useful for decoration in 
the autumn. Keep the general stock of hard- 
wooded plants well ventilated.. Vopng plants 


in free growth T?i 




iy>a light 


Sub-tropical gardening, potting off seed¬ 
lings of Castor-oilplants, large-leaved Solanums, 
Cannas, Centaureas, and other fine foiiaged 
plants will now need attention; they must be 
kept close to the glass to insure dwarf well-fur¬ 
nished growth, and should be shifted into larger 
sized pots as they require it, for unless they sire 
fine plants by the first of June, there is little 
chance of their attaining very large proportions 
before the season is over. All beds intended for 
this class of plants should be heavily manured 
and deeply cultivated in winter, and in spring 
forked over with steel forks; they will then be 
in good condition for planting. If 
Carpet bedding is adopted, a large stock of 
Coleus Verschaffelti and its improved variety 
must be propagated ; also Alternatheras and the 
golden-leaved Mesembryanthemum cordifolium 
must be put in at once. Others, such as Eche- 
verias, Kleinias, and Sempervivums, which form 
such distinct and qnaint-lookiDg beds, or which 
are so largely used for edgings, as in the esse of 
Echeveria glauca, will now need dividing. The 
majority of this class of plants strike freely 
from leaves with the growing bud or eye at the 
base left intact. Echeveria metallica makes a 
good centre for dwarfer varieties ; any plants of 
it getting too long in the stem may be cut off 
and inserted as cuttings in light soil and kept 
moderately dry until rooted. Any of the Sedums 
that form such pretty carpets under the above- 
named class of plants may be pulled to pieces 
and dibbled in thickly in light dry soil on a 
sloping bank or border, in order to ensure a good 
supply by planting time, and the same treatment 
will ensure a good stock of that invaluable green 
carpet plant, Mentha gibraltarica. All dried-off 
roots of Cannas, Dahlias, Salvias, Gladioli, &c., 
should at once be removed from their winter 
quarters and planted or started in gentle heat 
according to the supply required. Seedling 


plants should be pricked off as soon as they are 
large enough to ensure a dwarf steady top 
growth and a corresponding mass of healthy 
fibrous roots. 

Fruit. 

Plums andChebries. —Few subjects makea 
better return for the exercise of patience through 
the early stages than I’lums and Cherries when 
grown under glass, a maximum of air at all 
times when it is not freezing, with a minimum 
of fire-heat, being the most important points in 
their management. Indeed, so easily are they 
excited into the most beautiful sheets of bloom, 
that it is a matter of surprise they are not more 
generally cultivated for their flowers alone. By 
the time theee instructions appear many of the 
early kinds will have unfolded their blossoms, 
when, like all other stone fruits under artificial 
treatment, they will require careful fertilisa¬ 
tion, with a constant supply of air, the atmos¬ 
pheric moisture being regulated by external 
conditions. It is important that the house should 
be liberally supplied with fresh air, with just 
sufficient fire to keep it in motion, and as night 
comes on the temperature may sink to about 
45° when the weather is cold, and 50° when 
mild, bnt in the event of a return to sharp frost 
the flowers will be quite safe at 40°, with the 
ventilation considerably reduced and a corre¬ 
sponding reduction in the supply of moisture. 
For culture under glass the best dessert kinds 
only should be planted or potted. 

Vegetables. 

Main crops of Onions, Leeks, Parsnips, Carrots, 
general crops of Peas and Broad Beans are the 
more important crops that should be got in as 
early as conditions ate favourable. As soon as 
the digging of all vacant plots is finished, let 
each be marked for cropping, and if seeds cannot 
be then sown the ground may perhaps be in good 
order for planting out Cabbage, autumn-sown 
Odious, Lettuces, early Potatoes, and Cauli¬ 
flowers. The latter require rich well-drained 
ground, and to be planted in deep drills, as they 
are thereby partially sheltered from cutting 
easterly winds, generally so prevalent in March, 
and from the effects of which a little protection 
should be also afforded to l’eas by earthing up 
and staking them on the windward aide with 
evergreen boughs as soon as they emerge from 
the soil. As a rule, Peas are sown much too 
thickly in the row, and the rows are too close 
together. If the seed can be depended on, 3 in. 
asunder is sufficiently thick. As to distance 
row from row, that must depend on the average 
height which the kinds of Peas grown attain, 
but plenty of space should alwayB be afforded, 
and a crop of Radishes or Spinach may be grown 
in the central space between each row. 

Potatoes Bhould be planted in but limited 
quantities yet, and only in positions where they 
have natural protection, or where protection can 
be expeditiously applied, but all the seed tubers 
Bhould be laid out in single file either on floors 
or tables in cool sheds or rooms, that the sprouts 
may be developed sturdily. A little dry Cocoa- 
fibre refuse scattered amongst them conduces to 
root formation. Thin ont Carrots, prick out 
Lettuces, Celery, Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, 
and Coleworts, and make successional sowings 
of all these in the open air, but on a bed of 
leaves and litter to afford a little bottom-heat; 
in such a position a first sowing of Broccoli, 
Cottager's Kale, and Savoys should also now be 
made. Rhubarb will now come away freely by 
simply covering over the crowns with pots and 
just sufficient leaves or litter to keep the frost 
out of the ground. The crowns of Seakale in 
the open ground intended to be forced should at 
once be covered thickly with finely-sifted coal 
ashes, and the only attention required will be to 
occasionally examine them to refill the crevices 
in the ashes which are sometimes made through 
the quick growth of the Kale. French Beans 
will now bear most abundantly if sown in pits, 
bnt bottom heat, say 60°, is essential, and a top 
heat ranging from 65° to 70° with plenty of 
humidity. It is also time to make a sowing for 
outdoor culture of Tomatoes and Capsicums, in 
order that the plants may be strong for planting 
out early in May. 


Soot water for plants —The best and 
cleanest way of using soot water is to procure an 
old tub or barrel and Bink it half way into the 
ground. If it holds 36 gallons so much the 
tetter, although if only a few plants aie grown, 


Feu. 1«, 1884.] 


GARbEJVlJSTG ILLUSTRATED 


S/.i 


* 


one of smaller dimensions will suffice, or even 
an old earthen pot will do. To make 9 gallons, 
tie np 1 peck of soot in an old canvas or any 
other bag, place in the tub, and fill up with soft 
water; stir the bag about occasionally with a 
stick for three or four days, then drop in a 
lump of lime, about 1 lb., to clarify it. The same 
proportion of soot may be used toa less or greater 
quantity of water. If the bag of soot is well 
stirred it may suffice fora second brew. As it 
is best to give it weak and often, the lime may 
be omitted if desired.—H. 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


Propagating Heaths, Aoaolas, and 

Cytisus.—Heaths of the soft-wooded sec.ion, 
such as hyemalis, Willmoreana, gracilis, Ac., 
may be propagated either in the spring or in the 
late summer months. If plants are introduced 
into a gentle warmth early in the year, they will 
furnish plenty of cuttings by April. These 
should be taken off, about I inch in length, withj 
a very sharp knife, and should be trimmed with 
a small pair of scissors, so that they may be in¬ 
serted to about half their length. Well drain 
some 4-inch or 6-inch pots, filling them quite 
one-third full of crocks, on which place some 
fine fibrous peat, finishing off np to the rim with 
dry silver sand. Tap the pot a few times on the 
bench, in order that the soil and sand may settle 
firmly in its place, thus obviating all danger of 
its sinking when watered. Then set the pot in 
a tub of water, allowing it to remain there until 
the moisture rises up through the sand. As soon 
as superfluous water is drained away, the cut¬ 
tings may be inserted, a gentle watering given, 
a bell-glass placed over them, and the pot 
plunged up to the rim in gentle bottom-heat. 
After attention will consist in wiping the inte¬ 
rior of the glass every morning, and watering 
when needful. The foliage should, however, 
never be sprinkled. Pour a little water around 
the glass; the sand will absorb enough to keep 
it moist. As soon as signs of growth are per¬ 
ceived, the glass must be tilted a little, gradu¬ 
ally increasing the amount of air given until 
the glass can be entirely removed. Damp is a 
great enemy to these tender cuttings, and must 
be watched for, and the slightest sign removed 
before it has time to spread. Care must also be 
taken never to allow the sun to shine upon them. 
Propagation may also be effected in August, as 
soon as the wood is ripe, proceeding in the same 
manner as recommended for the spring cuttings, 
but placing the pots in a cold frame until Sep¬ 
tember, when they should be placed in a house 
which can be maintained at 50°. The so-called 
hard wooded Heaths are also best increased at 
this season, but in their case the pots should be 
plunged during the winter in a tan bed. Most 
of the Acacias strike readily from cuttings of 
the half-ripened wood, treating in the manner 
recommended for Heaths. If placed in a tem¬ 
perate house, they will form roots by March. 
The Cytisng is also increased in the same man¬ 
ner, but does not make root so readily as many 
kinds of hard-wooded plants.—B. 

Fuchsia Mrs. Marshall.—Fuchsias are 
not so much grown for spring dowering as they 
should be, but I am sure that anyone seeing the 
fine healthy little plants in 4^-inch pots which 
are brought into Covent Garden during the 
spring months would be ready to acknowledge 
their value for decorative purposes at that time 
of year. Some kinds lend themselves better 
than others to this method of culture, and pro¬ 
minent amongst them is Mrs. Marshall, which 
evinces such a tendency to flower in early spring, 
that even in a cool greenhouse it will come into 
blossom at a time when the generality of 
Fuchsias are but fairly started into growth. The 
flowers thus obtained, however, are produced 
from wood made the preoeding autumn, for this 
Fuchsia, if kept moist at the roots all the winter, 
holds all the autumn-made foliage, so that the 
oung wood remains green and full of sap, and 
ads form again soon after the new year. It 
may, indeed, be regarded as an evergreen winter- 
flowering variety. Only requiring a constant 
temperature of from 50° to 55° to bloom with 
freedom at that period of the year. This Fuchsia 
is much liked by market growers, owing to its 
floriferous, compact-habited nature and the ease 
with which it may be brought into flower in 
winter and spring. The'’foliage top,j being 
ample and of a pleasant f^atk o. 'gree^ the 


flowers are Bhown off to the greatest advantage, 
and there is but little difficulty in furnishing 
young specimens with leafage to the rim of the 
pot—an important consideration in the case of 
plants of any kind grown for market, or, indeed, 
for decorative purposes generally. For winter 
blooming cuttings should be struck late in 
spring, growing the young plants along freely 
all the summer, but not allowing them to flower, 
and shifting for the last time in July, so that 
i he pots get full of roots by the late autumn. 
I’iants of this description will bloom well at 
Christmas in a light, airy intermediate house, 
and if kept cool all the winter will come into 
flower nicely in March, April, and May in an 
ordinary greenhouse temperature. It would be 
well if raisers of Fuchsias would take in hand 
varieties such as this, which require but little 
inducement to flower early in the year. We 
should then probably secure a race of fine free 
winter-blooming kinds, the value of which can 
be scarcely over-estimated.—B. 

Abutilons in winter.— There are now 
many fine varieties of this useful plant, the 
greater portion of which flower during winter, 
thus furnishing cut flowers for indoor purposes, 
and forming graceful decorative plants for the 
greenhouse and conservatory. The earliest in¬ 
troduced species were somewhat straggling in 
habit and shy bloomers, but this cannot be said 
of a host of hybrid varieties, all of which are 
everything that can be desired in these respects, 
being dwarf and compact as well as profuse 
and continuous flowerers. They are also all 
plants of easy culture, and will succeed in any 
compost which may be suitable for the Pelar¬ 
gonium or other soft-wooded plants. They are 
all easily increased by cuttings, which may be 
inserted either during early autumn or in spring, 
placing the pots containing them in a close 
atmosphere on a mild bottom-heat. Possibly 
the best method of securing suitable plants for 
blooming in winter is to plant out in suitable 
soil, in the open air, early in June, well-esta¬ 
blished, healthy young plants, which will re¬ 
quire little attention during the summer months 
beyond watering during dry weather. Such 
plants should be carefully taken np and potted 
early in October, and after being kept somewhat 
close for a short time, they will continue to 
bloom throughout the winter if placed in a warm 
greenhouse or similar structure. Existing 
varieties of these plants produce flowers of 
various shades of colour, and as hybrids are in 
this family easily obtained, each successive 
season adds to their number. The following 
are the names of a few which will be found 
worthy of a place in any collection of winter 
flowering plants, viz., A. Thompsani, an old 
variety, but still worth growing on account of 
its ornamental foliage and pretty flowers, which 
are not, however, produced in sufficient abund¬ 
ance. The following are of more recent intro¬ 
duction, viz., Boule de Neige, a very free flower¬ 
ing variety, compact in habit, and with flowers 
pure white ; Seraph, also a very fine white 
flowered variety, La Gr41ot, pale pink with rich 
purple veins ; and Lady of the Lake, also a fine 
pink flowered sort; Orange Perfection has 
flowers of a deep orange colour, and the blooms 
of aurea globosa are of a rich golden yellow. 
In addition to these there are also now in the 
trade many other meritorious varieties of this 
graceful plant.—G. 

Acaoia from seed. —Acacia lophantha is 
a plant of singularly graceful habit and outline, 
and one that is particularly well adapted for 
windows, as there it shows off its elegant foliage 
to the greatest advantage. Not only is it good 
for either of these purposes, but it forms an ad¬ 
mirable relief to the flatness and general unifor¬ 
mity of others on a stage when set so as to show 
clear above them ; and half-a-dozen used in this 
way do much to give a finished look to any 
house in which they may be used. By sowing 
annually in spring, plants of this Acacia may 
be had with straight, single stems furnished 
with leaves down to the pot, and when in this 
condition they are exceedingly ornamental. 
The seeds, being somewhat hard, are rather slow 
in germinating, but in this they may be hastened 
by soaking them for twelve hours or so in warm 
water, after which they should be sown in sandy 
soil and placed in a Cucumber frame or warm 
greenhouse. A rich, light loam suits them best 
to grow in, and 6-inch pots are quite large 
enough for the first season, but if extra-sized 


plants are required ihey may be had by liberal 
shifts and feeding them well with manure 
water.—W. 

10929.— Eplphyllums in London.— It 
would be almost useless to attempt to bloom 
these plants in winter in a temperature of 40° 
at night. They need the warmth of a stove, or 
at least £0° more than this to expand their 
blooms at all satisfactorily. Town air, if not 
very bad, does not seem to affect them much, 
but heat is indispensable. Epiphyllums can be 
grown on their own roots from cuttings, which 
strike easily ; but to make anything like plants 
it is necessary to graft them on the Pereskia 
stock. It is not surprising that Heaths, 
Primulas, and Cyclamens do not flourish in your 
locality, for these are easily injured by a smoky 
atmosphere, but you ought to be able to succeed 
with Camellias, as, with ordinary care and clean¬ 
liness, they will do very well almost anywhere ; 
and Genistas also should do better, though they 
are sure to flower late.—B. C. E. 

10979.— Plante for greenhouse.— You 
want to do too much in your small house. It 
will be better to drop the idea of growing Cu¬ 
cumbers in it. Vines you may grow, as they 
will do well enough over the plants, but the 
plants will not do so well under the vines. 
Besides Ferns and Geraniums, you may grow a 
few Azaleas and Camellias, Genista fragans, and 
Epacris of sorts, all the spring bulbs, principally 
Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, Ac., the pretty 
Deutzia gracilis. Dielytra spectabilis, Lily of 
the Valley, a pot or two of Solomon's Seal, 
Spiraea japonica, Vallota purpurea, Cinerarias, 
and Fuchsias. Of course there are numbers of 
other plants that you might fancy when you see 
them in other people’s gardens. Plant the vine 
outside of the house.—J. D. E. 

10969.— Potting old Fuchsias. —The 
first thing to do is to prune them, and this 
should be_done at once, as they will soon be 
breaking." Prune the wood made last year back 
to two eyes, and cut entirely away every weak, 
sprayey shoots. Water very moderately only 
when the soil becomes quite dry; and When new 
shoots an inch long are made, shake away all 
the old soil and replace in a pot just about large 
enough to contain the roots. Water moderately 
until the plants come fully into growth, and 
then more freely, and when the pots get full of 
fibres, shift into larger pots. From the latter 
end of June they do well in the open air.— 
J. C. B. 

10966.— Palms In pots. —Almost any kind 
of liquid manure may be used for these. Some 
growers use the strong animal or blood manures 
very successfully, but a solution of real Peruvian 
guano is very good, so is the ordinary liquid 
stable manure diluted to a safe strength, though 
Palms will take it as strong or stronger than any 
other plant with the best effects. Palms should 
be repotted in early spring, just as they are 
commencing a fresh growth; and after this 
operation keep them in as warm, close, and 
moist an atmosphere as possible while fresh 
growth is being made.—B. O. R. 

10900.— Lily of the Valley not growing. 
—They did not grow because the temperature 
was too low. If forced in midwinter, they re¬ 
quire quite 70°, and properly thby should be 
plunged in bottom-heat. If you can arrange for 
placing a handlight over the flow-pipe where it 
comes out of the boiler, yon would get a larger 
amount of heat for them. They require but 
little water until in full growth, and a small pot 
should be placed inverted over the crowns until 
they are several inches through the soil. If 
yon cannot get this warmth, they will come on 
in time, and will flower better than if forced 
along quickly.—J. C. B. 

10944.— Treatment of Justlolas.— Turfy 
loam and peat in eqnal parts, with a little sand 
added, would suit yonr Justicias. The tempera¬ 
ture is far too low for them, which I have no 
doubt is the cause of the leaves dying and heads 
of bloom falling off. It must be remembered 
they are stove plants, and should have a tem¬ 
perature just now of no less than 55° to 60°. 
Pay careful attention to watering; they do not 
require much at present. — J. Bobektsok. 

10980.-Camellia buds not opening. — These 
plants remain a long time in bud before the flowers open. 
If they are really at a standstill,ft Is difficult to say what 
is the reason. There are some varieties the buds of which 
seldom open well You should grow the double white, 
flmbriata, iinbricatu, and other free opening varieties. 
—J. D. IS 



574 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Feb. 16 1884. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


BEDDING PLANTS FBOM SEED. 
Amatuer gardeners will now be making pre¬ 
paration for filling their flower beds and borders, 
and as many very beautiful summer flowering 
plants are readily increased by means of seed, a 
very large quantity can be raised without the aid 
of heated glass structures, as a warm pit or 
frame to start the seed into growth, and some 
frames for growing on and hardening off the 
stock, will be sufficient, for a fair sized garden, 
and there is no need for any flower pots, as the 
yonng plants do far better in pans or boxes. I 
like wooden boxes about 3 inches deep, and of 
any size most convenient for storage. In many 
places empty boxes may be bought of grocers, 
fishmongers, and other tradesmen, cheaper than 
they can De made. In this locality, boxes in which 
herrings have been sent from the north are 
largely utilised for growing bedding plants in, 
as they can be purchased for is per dozen, or 
Id. each. A Cucumber frame set on a bed of 
leaves and stable litter to create a gentle bottom 
heat will be just the place for starting seeds 
into growth, and by the aid of external cover¬ 
ings of mats, and by shutting np the frames 
early in the afternoon so as to make the most 
of the sun heat, a rapid growth will be ensnred. 
After getting the frame in order for their recep¬ 
tion, prepare the boxes for the seed by putting 
a layer of rough potsherds at the bottom, and 
then some of the roughest soil, finishing off with 
an inch deep of finely sifted sandy soil moder¬ 
ately dry;press it down firm, and it is ready for 
the seed. Then water it with a fine-rosed water 
pot, and sow the seed by spreading it evenly on 
the surface, and sift just enough fine soil overitas 
will cover it. Any very minute seeds such as those 
of blue Lobelia must not be covered with soil, 
but a sheet of glass laid over the box to 
prevent evaporation until the seedlings are 
np will be found of the greatest service. 
The following list includes only well tried sorts 
that are sure to give satisfaction, and may be 
extended or curtailed according to the demand : 
—Ageratum: Imperial Dwarf (blue). Ama- 
rantus : Globe in several varieties. A. melan- 
chollcus ruber, beautiful foliage. Asters : 
China, German, and Pyramidal. Dahlias: 
Single varieties from seed, flower well in au¬ 
tumn. Dianthus chinensis, or Indian Pink, 
in many varieties. Gaillardia picta, a beau¬ 
tiful plant that keeps on flowering until very 
late in autumn. Godetias, in several varie¬ 
ties, suoh as The Bride, Lady Albemarle, are 
beautiful and continuous bloomers. Heli- 
chrysums make a beautiful show in the garden 
if the seedlings are raised early, and the flowers 
keep well for winter decoration if gathered and 
kept quite dry. Lobelia speciosa, and the 
dwarf, tufty growing varieties, are indispensable 
in the flower garden for edging beds and borders. 
If sown at once in heat and pricked off as soon 
as large enough, they will make nice plants by 
the middle of May. Marvel of Peru make a 
very pretty bed if sown early, and get on to nice 
plants by May. Maurandya Bnrclayana is 
well adapted for garnishing the edges of vases, 
or rustic beds and baskets, being of a trailing 
habit of growth. Mimulus of the large spot¬ 
ted varieties is an excellent plant for damp, 
shaded beds or borders, having beautifully spot¬ 
ted flowers. Nasturtiums, or Tropmolums, if 
sown under glass so as to get good sized plants, 
soon make a brilliant display ; the dwarf sorts 
make good beds, and the trailing varieties look 
well on fences or rustic work, such as root or 
rock work. The Tom Thumb and Crystal 
Palace varieties are the best for beds. 
Petunias have been so greatly improved that 
seedlings of either tho single or double varieties 
may be relied on to make splendid beds. Perilla 
nankinensis is very nseful for its dark bronze 
foliage, contrasting well with variegated leaf 
Geraniums, or other silvery-leaf plants. Pyre- 
thrum, or Golden Feather, especially the lace- 
leaf kinds, makes a pretty edging if sown early 
and pricked off in cold frames. Salvia patens, 
one of the most lovely blue flowers in cultivation, 
is easily raised from seed, and may afterwards 
be perpetuated by its fleshy tubers or roots lifted 
and kept from frost. Stocks of the ten-week 
kinds, and dwarf intermediate, Bhould be sown 
under glass, and planted out in April to make a 
good display. Tagetes signata pumila is well 
deserving of a little shelter under glass to get 
forward plants. laceups flowering jontinuously 


in all kinds of seasons, even after ordinary bed- 
ders are over. Verbenas, both of the best 
named kinds and the very useful small flowered 
V. venosa and V. pulchella, are readily raised from 
seed,and of late years they have been more satis¬ 
factory than those raised from cuttings, that die 
off from some disease that has rendered their 
culture impossible in many places where they 
used to be largely grown. Zinnia elegans is 
such a beautiful flower that it ought to be in 
every garden; bow early under glass, prick off 
in boxcB and harden off, and finally plant out in 
April or May. The necessity of planting gar¬ 
dens with a repetition of Geraniums and Cal¬ 
ceolarias, when so many beautiful plants of 
even more easy culture are at hand, is one of the 
things that are not easily accounted for, except 
that of overcoming established customs, how¬ 
ever bad they may be.— James Groom, Ootport. 


Bedding Calceolarias.— Few have been 
more tried tnan I have been to get Calceolarias 
to suoceed in a satisfactory manner when 
bedded out in the flower garden in summer. In 
hot, dry weather such as that which we ex¬ 
perienced in the summer of 1870, the plants 
died off after being planted in a very mysterious 
manner. Strong, healthy plants, apparently 
thriving and full of vigour in the morning, 
would look in the evening as if a blast of scorch¬ 
ing wind had passed over the beds and singled 
out here and there a plant on which to expend 
its fury. Under such circumstances the only 
consolation I had was to know that I did not 
Buffer alone, for in gardens widely apart the 
same thing occurred. I do not, moreover, re¬ 
member that the reason for their so suddenly 
dying was ever clearly explained, and I make 
no attempt to do so. I am glad to say that 
during these last five years I have been more 
successful, and as I have altered my way of pre¬ 
paring the plants, that may have something to 
do with it, as may have also the comparatively 
cool, damp summers that wc have lately had. 
Cuttings are put in under handlights and in 
cold frames in October, and are protected during 
winter from severe frost. Early in Maroh we 
prepare a position under the north side of a high 
wall. We make the ground fairly rich, and are 
careful to break it up well with a fork, and as 
our land is heavy we place on the surface 
2 inches of sifted material from the potting 
bench, a mixture which contains all kinds of 
soil, and in many cases a great deal of sand. It 
is really a valuable mixture for such a tender¬ 
rooting plant as the Calceolaria, which evidently 
likes it, for our plants commence to make new 
growth in it soon after they are planted. We 
plant out about 9 inches apart every way—a 
distance which gives room for the plants to 
branch out from the main stem and become 
bushy. I should have stud, however, before that 
we make a point of taking off the top of every 
plant a fortnight before they are taken out of 
the cutting frames, so that by the time they are 
planted out on the north border side shoots are 
already bursting out at the axils of the leaves, 
and if we get a very mild growing time through 
the month of March we generally top them once 
more about the middle of April. In order to 
protect the plants while undergoing preparation 
before being bedded out we construct a tem¬ 
porary framework and cover it with mats when 
there is any appearance of frost. This night 
protection is continued np to about the third 
week in April, after which no further shelter is 
needed ; but it must be understood that we are 
in the west of England. Early planting has 
been frequently recommended as the best means 
of preventing Calceolarias from dying off; but I 
doubt its efficiency, and in but few places is it 
practicable, for spring gardening has become so 
general that it is quite the end of May and 
sometimes later before the flower beds are ready 
to receive their Bummer occupants. Of this I 
feel certain that it is unwise to plant out Cal¬ 
ceolarias in very bright weather, the roots being 
liable to get scalded by the hot dry earth. 
It will always pay to wait for a dull day on 
which to plant, a remark which refers more 
especially to plants prepared as I have advised, 
by growing them in a north aspect. It is on this 
particular point that I base my present success. 
I—O. C. 

Notes on annuals.— The majority of the 
best annuals prefer a light rich soil; if grown in 
too rich a soil they assume a coarse leafy growth. 


and do not flower freely. The ground should be 
well dug two spits deep, and some well-rotted 
manure or leaf-mould added. The spring- 
floweriDg sorts should be sown early if possible, 
or they do not make their full growth before 
flowering. The ground should be rather dry 
when the work is done, and a time should be 
chosen when tho glass has been steadily going 
down for several days. In small gardens, and 
where time is limited, some barrowfuls of earl h 
may be laid in a dry place in winter, and if the 
weather is not dry enough for sowing, 9 inches 
or so of earth may be dug out, and dry earth sub¬ 
stituted, and the seed sown in that. The larger 
seeds may be covered with 1 inch, 2 inches, or 
3 inches of earth, but the seeds of some are very 
minute, and will not germinate if covered 
deeply; for these the soil should be fine, and 
chopped Moss, or a piece of window glass, should 
be placed over them to prevent evaporation until 
the plants appear above ground. If severe 
weather Bhould follow sowing, an empty flower¬ 
pot inverted over the clumps will protect from 
injury. As soon as the plants can be handled 
they should be thinned, one or two plants of the 
dwarfer sorts, and one of the larger kinds only 
should be left; the plants will then grow 
vigorously and flower freely. Some upright 
kinds, which carry their flowers in a bunch at 
the top, require stakes, but, as a rule, annuals 
well grown can take care of themselves. Very 
few annuals flower throughout the summer. 
Where a snccession of bloom is wanted, succes- 
Bional sowings should be made in pots kept in a 
shaded but airy part of the garden j these may 
be transferred to the beds when others have 
finished blooming. 

Protecting alpine plants.— Growers of 
alpine plants on a small scale, who have, like 
myself, vainly tried many ways of protecting 
them from sings in winter, may like to hear of a 
simple and infallible method of doing 6o. Sur¬ 
round the plant with a ring of perforated sine 
(as repeatedly recommended in Gardening 
Illustrated). This is useful, but certain plants 
are only safe in an impregnable fortress, pro¬ 
vided by placing a piece of glass on the zinc 
ring. This is hardly less valuable as a protec¬ 
tion from excess of moisture in wet weather, can 
easily be removed on fine days, and at all times 
admits air freely. Can anyone tell me how to 
save Primula farinosa? Every plant has failed 
in health after a time, and appears to be eaten 
off at the root. P. scotica is apparently goiDg 
off in the same way, but no other plant (includ¬ 
ing several kinds of hardy Primulas) suffers, 
though quite close to the victims, and some, such 
as Dianthus alpinus, said to be veiy liable to 
the attacks of wireworm. Can peat soil be the 
cause ?— Aeron, 

Marvel of Peru. —Sow in March or April in 
pans or boxes, place in a mild hotbed, or in a 
sunny place in a greenhouse or room window. 
When the plants have made four leaves, pot off 
into 6-inch pots, keep in a shady place and safe 
from frost until bedding plants are put out, 
when they may be planted in the open ground, 
and will bloom the first year. The roots should 
be lifted when the leaves die, and stored in sand 
in a dry place during the winter. They may be 
planted in the open ground in May or June, but 
it is, perhaps, safest to start them in pots indoors. 
A light, rich, well drained soil suits them 
best-.—J. 

Christmas Rosea. —I bought some plants 
of Christmas Hoses about the middle of 
December from a nursery. They had a quantity 
of pinkish buds at the root when bought. The 
gardener said these were bloom buds, and the 
plants would be in bloom in three weeks. I 
potted the plants and placed them in the window 
of a cool room facing north-east. I have had no 
flowers, and the bloom-buds are now throwing 
up leaves. Should the plants be planted out in 
the garden, or is there still a chance of bloom 1 
—IQNIS FATUUS. 

Kerrla japooloa. —This in some places is 
sadly neglected. It is a most useful plant for 
the wild garden. 1 well remember the grand 
appearance of some planted in an out-of-tbe 
way yard, a very hot, dry sandy situation, against 
a south wall. They were left to grow as they 
liked, except that a few of the dead pieces were 
cut out. They retained their beauty the greater 
part of the summer. It is a plant that deserves 
to be planted more extensively than it is.—E. 



Frb. 16, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


675 


HARDY P.EONIES. 

These are among the most showy and attrac¬ 
tive flowers of the garden daring the months of 
Jane and July, and too much cannot be said in 
their praise. They possess an exquisite perfume 
similar to that of Tea Roses, and their large, 
handsomely-formed flowers possess a striking 
variation of oolour, varying from the deepest 
crimson to the purest white. 


that their flowers are obtained by gTeat vigi¬ 
lance and care. Not so with Paeonies, with 
which when once planted all is done. Each suc¬ 
ceeding year adds to their sire and beauty. The 
foliage is rich and glossy and of a beautiful 
deep green colour, thus rendering the plants 
very ornamental even when out of flower. 


places Paeonies would grow luxuriantly; the 
colour of their blooms would, in many cases, be 
even more intense, and they would last much 
longer than flowers fully exposed to the sun. 
They may therefore be made useful as well as 
ornamental even in small pleasure grounds, al¬ 
though the proper place for them is undoubtedly 
the fronts of large shrubberies, plantations, or 
by the sides of carriage drives. Where distant 



Hardy Double Pioony. Sketched iu Mr. Stevens's garden at Byfleet last summer. 


I 


Hardiness. —The first point in favour of 
Fieonies is their perfect hardiness. It may be 
truly said of them that they are •• hardy as an 
Oak.” In the severest climates the plants require 
no other protection than that which they afford 
themselves. Then their vigorous habit and 
healthy growth, freedom from all diseases and 
insects, are important arguments in favour of 
their cultivation. GrowersxjWtosea know pell 

Digitized by ^jQ| 


lavuui ua 

now well 


Position. —The double forms of the herba¬ 
ceous Pteony rank among the best of hardy 
borders or ghrubbery plants, although they are 
somewhat neg'ected — probably owing to the 
fact that they are so large that in small gar¬ 
dens they occupy too much room. There sire, 
however, generally to be found, even in gardens 
of limited size, spots so much shaded that 
scarcely any flower will thrive in them. In such 


effect is required no plants so admirably answer 
the end, sis their size and brillianoy render them 
strikingly visible, even at long distances off. 
Planted on either side of a Grass walk, the 
effect which they produce is admirable, especially 
in the morning and at or nesir sunset, and when 
planted in masses, as, for instance, in beds in 
pleasure grounds, they are invaluable for light¬ 
ing up sombre nooks. Qp ||_|_||SJ0IS AT 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 









S/6 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Feb. 16, 1884. 


Soil and Planting. —Herbaceous Peonies 
succeed in any soil and in any position, but a 
Rood moist loam, particularly when enriched by 
the addition of cow manure, is the soil best 
suited to them. They can be planted at any 
time of the year, but from October to April is 
the best. Take care to have the ground well 
prepared for their reception by manuring and 
trenching it to the depth of about 3 feet, and on 
no account should they be planted nearer than 
4 feet apart in each direction. They must not 
be expected to flower well before the second or 
third year after planting. Open-air culture 
renders the plants robust, and they do not re¬ 
quire to be shaded from the sun until they 
flower, when some slight shade prolongs and pre¬ 
serves the delicate tints, and also enables the 
flowers to become more thoroughly developed 
than they would otherwise be; watering the 
lants judiciously now and then, as soon as the 
uds are well-formed, with liquid manure also 
greatly benefits them. It is likewise, of course, 
neoessary, when the tufts have become very 
strong, and have impoverished the soil, to 
separate and transplant them on fresh ground. 

Varieties. — The majority of the newer 
varieties appear to be of Continental origin, a 
circumstance owing, no doubt, to the climate 
there being more favourable for perfecting the 
seed ; hence the greater Dumber of the sorts 
bear foreign name. Without making a long list 
of the best varieties we append an enumeration 
of a few of the most distinct. Among the best 
white kinds are Alba sulphureq, Candidissima, 
Marquise de Lory, Nivea plenissima, and Queen 
Perfection. Of pinks—Souvenir de l'Exposition, 
Oberlin, Madame Lemoine, Louisa d Estrees, 
and Dr. Bretonneau. Of crimsons—Ambroise 
Verschaffelt, Henry Demay, Souvenir d’Auguste 
Miellez, Victorie d’Alma, and Augustin Dhour 
Such sorts as the following would fill up, as it 
were, the intermediate shades in making a re¬ 
presentative selection, viz., Eugene Verdier, 
Madame Calot, Madame Serret, Triomphe de 
Paris, Prince de Salm Dyck, Madame Vilmorin, 
and Gloria Patrice. All the above grow to much 
the same height, about 3 ft., and thrive well in 
any ordinary garden soil. All the varieties 
appear to have sprung from the old P. offici¬ 
nalis and its varieties, and more particularly 
from the Anemone-flowered kind (anemonsc- 
flora), the flowers of which have an outer row of 
large or guard petals enclosing numerous small 
petals. 


Petasites fragrans.— Your correspond¬ 
ent, “ G.” (page 622) is, I think, in error in 
describing this as a British plant. Its native 
country is Italy, where, strange to relate, it 
remained in obscurity until early in the present 
century, when M. Villan, of Grenoble, was 
attracted by its fragrance at the foot of Mount 
Pilat, whence he brought it to perfume the win¬ 
ter gardens of the continent. It first cast its 
odour on British shores in 1806, and became 
known as Tussilago fragrans, or the “ sweet- 
scented Tussilage.” Of the genus Petasites we 
have but one native species, the common Butter¬ 
bur (P. vulgaris), which isfrequentlymetwithin 
wet meadows and beside watercourses, where its 
large leaves—of ten more than two feet broad, 
supported on long purplish footstalks—give 
quite a tropical appearance to the spot. Its 
flowers, like those of the common Coltsfoot, 
appear in March, and are withered and gone 
before the leaves spriDg up. This early flowering 
of the Butter-bur, says Sir W. Hooker, “ has 
induced the Swedish farmers to plant it near 
their beehives. Thus, we see in our gardens 
the bees assembled on its affinities, P. alba and 
fragrans, at a Beason when scarcely any other 
flowers are expanded.”— F. Martin. 

—— In an account of PetaBites fragrans, in 
Gardening, January 19, there is an error. It 
is not a native, though I believe it grows freely 
about Torquay. The native Petasites—Butter 
bur—is Petasite vulgaris. The Coltsfoot is not 
a Butter bur. The fragrant Butter bur is a 
native of Italy, introduced in 1806. I have seen 
it growing near Nice.—S. K. D. 

Hardy flowers. —I have read with much 
interest the articles both by Mr. Sweet and also 
by Mr. Dod. The portion of the latter gentle¬ 
man's article which was of most internet to me 
was this : “ It is remarkable that Orchis foliosa 
is found in its own-pountry with .many shades 
of colour, and I hive ofieiart a .reward (through 


a friend) for a white-flowered variety,” and so 
on. Now I may say that I never paid very much 
attention to the Orchis until reading Mr. Dod’s 
article in Gardening. But I am indeed very 
proud to think that I am the possessor of such a 
scarce plant, and shall now prize it very much. 
The bloom is pure white, and the foliage is 
green, with no spots on it, rather lance-shaped. 
I grow also a purple one, and have been often 
complimented that they were as good as 
Hyacinths, the bloom-heads measuring from 
6 inches to 7 inches in length. The white- 
flowered variety has a scent which reminds me 
very much of the Hawthorn, and it will afford 
me the greatest pleasure to forward to Mr. Dod 
the blooming spike this season when I get 
it. Orchises are very plentiful in this dis¬ 
trict in their wild state in the bogs and on the 
railway banks. Very little interest is taken in 
them by the florists of the district.— John 
Forrest, Balmoral Gardens, Bathgate (N.B.) 

10957.—Fraxinella—It is Dictamnus fraxi- 
nella you mean, commonly called the Fraxinella, 
a fragrant-leaved hardy flower of great worth, 
and very attractive when well grown. It will 
flourish in ordinary garden soil in a sunny as¬ 
pect, but likes beet good loam, and if the natu¬ 
ral staple is light it would be well to add some 
stronger soil to it, as well as some good rotten 
dung. The great important point in the culture 
of this plant is to thoroughly prepare the Boil 
for it and leave it alone, as it much dislikes 
removal, and vigour is easily maintained by 
means of annual top dressings of short manure. 
It attains, when thoroughly established, a height 
of some 3 feet or more. Before planting deeply, 
stir the soil — 2 feet will not be too much— add¬ 
ing the manorial or other ingredients. Plant 
when the ground is tolerably dry, and make the 
soil firm round the roots.—J. C. B. 

10934.—" Old Man’ or Southernwood. 
—This plant belongs to the Wormwood family 
(Artimesia), and in addition to the above names 
is also known as Lads’ Love. “Y. G, W.” is 
right in describing it as a popular plant among 
the humbler classes, as in this locality, at least, 
there is scarcely a cottage garden that does not 
contain a bush of this fragrant plant, and the 
cottager’s nosegay is never considered complete 
without a spray or two of “Old Man." It is cul¬ 
tivated on account of its glaucous, feathery 
foliage and strongly aromatic soent. Slips or 
cuttings put in in spring strike readily, or if any 
of the lower branches touch the ground the 
plant will propagate itself, as in this position 
they root freely, particularly if the soil be a 
sandy one, in which the plant delights to grow. 
—J.Martin. 

10935 —Lily of the Valley.— Your Lily 
of the Valley would do far better behind a wall 
having a north aspect; it would also do well on a 
west aspect. It likes a good, rich loam to grow 
in, but it will grow in most garden soils, and 
also likes a shady place. Dig the piece of 
ground intended to be planted two spades deep, 
working in plenty of good, rotten manure, and 
plant at once if the weather is favourable. It 
will do for years without much attention, only 
keep the bed free of weeds.—J. Kobertson. 

10910. — Obelisoaria puloherrima. — 
This will do very well in any good garden soil 
in a villa garden. Stir the soil before planting, 
add a little rotten manure, and mulch with 
some more. It is a good plant, and worthy of 
good cultural care. Plant about the middle of 
March if the plant has been under glass, other¬ 
wise the sooner the better.—J. C. B. 


Making cuttings. — With most soft- 
wooded cuttings, it is immaterial whether their 
bases are cut over directly underneath a joint or 
not. All cuttings should be put in immediately 
they are severed from the parent plant. To let 
them flag is a certain loss of substance which 
they can ill afford at this time; 6-inch pots are 
the most convenient for propagation; when 
larger are used the Boil in the centre does not 
derive so much benefit from the bottom-heat as 
that in the small size. Where space will allow, 
the larger-sized cuttings root more readily in 
small 2£-inch pots than in any other. Little 
drainage is needed in cutting-pots, as their occu¬ 
pants are not long in them ; they should always 
be filled with a mixture of which at least half is 
sand and half some epen material. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(MISCELLANEOUS.) 

10955.— Repotting plants. —In repotting 
old Fuchsias, it is customary to shake away all 
the old soil, as they, being in a state of rest or 
but just starting into growth when this opera¬ 
tion is performed, do not suffer any check thereby, 
and the roots get the advantage of being sur¬ 
rounded with entirely fresh food. First fram e 
them, then allow them to start into growth, and 
then when the soil is nearly dry work it away 
completely from the roots and replace in a clean 
pot just large enough to contain the roots, shift¬ 
ing into a larger pot later on. All plants which 
quite lose their foliage in winter may be 
operated on in the same way, also such as are cut 
back hard after blooming, such as Bouvardias 
and Pelargoniums. Geraniums, on the contrary, 
should not be thus treated, as they are only to be 
shifted when growing, and the working away of 
the soil would entail the destruction of many 
good feeders. In fact, all plants which are re¬ 
potted during the growing time should have 
their roots as little disturbed as possible, not 
breaking the ball, but merely removing a little 
of the top soil and the drainage Chrysanthe¬ 
mums are better grown from cuttings every year, 
and if put in now in a oool house under a hand- 
light will root quickly, and the old plants can be 
put out in the open ground.—J. C. B. 

10969.— Uses of greenhouses.— House 
No. 1, at present planted with vines, might be 
left as it is, at least until you ascertain what is 
the quality of the fruit produced, and whether 
it would be desirable to renew the borders or re¬ 
plant with new vines. House No. 2, lean-to and 
unheated, facing north-east, would scarcely be 
adapted to grow Grapes. They would be very 
late, and could not be expected to ripen well. 
Such a house would be well adapted to grow 
Camellias and Hardy Ferns. It would nlse be 
useful for retarding plants. No. 3 would do well 
for flowering plants. Flowers could be grown in 
No. 1 to a certain extent, also in the other houses 
and frames, and a show of flowering plants could 
be kept up in this house. No. 4 is more of the 
nature of a Peach case, a narrow glass erection 
to protect fruit trees, such as the Peach and 
Nectarines, from frost when in flower. I would 
advise planting it with Peach and Nectarine 
trees on the back wall, and grow various kinds 
of hardy and half-hardy flowers on the front 
border.—J. D. E. 

10971.— Pelargoniums and Cyclamens. 

—The cause of your plants not doing well is the 
damp and stagnant state of the atmosphere of 
an unheated house. Pelargoniums particularly re¬ 
quire the air around them to be in an almoBt con¬ 
stantly moving or buoyant state, and can never 
be grown well in a house without hot water 
pipes, which, of course, cause a constant move¬ 
ment in the atmosphere. Moreover they never 
succeed so well in a sunk house, that is, in any 
structure more or less beneath the the surface of 
the ground (as a greenhouse in an area must of 
course be), as in one built quite above the ground, 
and consequently drier and more airy. The cause 
of the Cyclamen becoming drawn and weak may 
in part be traced to the same source, and partly 
to the house being sunk so low, when the leaves 
and flowers become drawn up towards the 
light above. Your only chance in a house so 
situated is to keep all such plants on a shelf 
where their tops will be nearly touching the 
roof-glass.—B. C. K. 

10887.— Chrysanthemums.— You do not 
say at what period the plants were stopped. 
Probably they were pinched back too late to 
enable them to form buds. In future, do not 
stop after the last week in July or first week in 
August, then if the plants are liberally treated 
they will be sure to flower well. The young 
shoots which are now coming from the base of 
the plant will strike readily in March, and 
when rooted should be potted Bingly, stopping 
them when they have made some 4 inches of 
growth, and pinching back the lateral shoots 
later on when they are some 6 inches long. They 
will probably need stopping three times by 
August, and this will give good bushy specimens. 
—J. C. B. 

10892.— Law as to greenhouses. - 
Seeing no reply to “ One in Doubt,” 1 gladly 
give my experience. I had a span-roof green¬ 
house erected 16 feet by 9 feet, placed on loo« 
bricks—no mortar—this preventing its beitf 


Feb. IS, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


the landlord’s property—wooden panels running 
round to the height of staging. The Metropolitan 
i'.uilding Act does not allow any woodwork, ex¬ 
cept for glazing. The builder having notice to 
remove the panels and replace them by brick¬ 
work or glass, the latter has been done. I 
wished to eover over the heating apparatus, and 
had woodwork made, but, of course, I could not 
use it, being compelled to have either bricks or 
galvanized iron. Had I previously known the 
requirements of the Metropolitan Act, I should 
have been spared much trouble and useless ex¬ 
pense.—R obin Hood. 

10931.— Syringing plants. —By no means 
syringe the plants with water which has not 
for some hours been exposed to the atmosphere. 
Water coming from a distance, and which has 
lain some time in pipes, would sure to be some 
degrees colder than the house, and sprinkling 
overhead with it would sure to cause a chill, 
and the habitual use of snch would be a certain 
obstacle to success in plant culture under glass. 
Your best way would be to have a tank or large 
tub in the house, connecting this with the water 
supply, and then you would get plenty of water 
for watering and syringing at the temperature 
of the house, and you would find a good syringe 
far handier than the hose for a moderate sized 
house. It is only in large lofty structures that 
a hose is needful, or of any great service.— 
J. C. B. 

- It would not be advisable to carry out 

yonr plan. As arule, all plants like to be syringed 
with water of the same temperature as that in 
which they are growing. Therefore, the water 
direct from the pipes would be injurious to the 
plants.—J. Robertson. 

10974. —Arranging heating apparatus.— 
If you only intend having one pair of pipes— 
flow and return—along the honse, they should 
certainly be placed just outside the pit, along¬ 
side of the footpath, and as low down as possi¬ 
ble. Cucumbers—at least for a summer crop- 
do not absolutely require bottom beat if the 
drainage is good, and even if they did, one pipe 
along the bottom of the bed would not be of 
very ranch use; there should be a pair at least. 
Nor would one pipe, even if a 4-inch, warm an 
8-feet wide house sufficiently. But with the 
pipes placed as I have recommended, Cacum- 
hers would do well in the summer time, and 
the house be quite warm enough for ordinary 
plants during the winter season.—B. C. B. 

10940.—Turnip tops.— If the Turnip tops 
are to be served np as a green vegetable, I 
may say I have succeeded well with them in the 
following manner. When I clear my plot of 
swede Turnips, I cut the Turnip from the top 
and insert the top back into the ground, in the 
hole from which I drew theTnrnip. It requires 
very little trouble, as it very readily strikes root 
round the bottom of the neck, where the Turnip 
was cut off, and in the spring I gather the young 
shoots. When they get a fair size they make a 
splendid dish cooked in the same way as Kale. 
None other than swede Turnips will do for this 
purpose.—A llwood. 

-Any kind of Turnip, if sown the last week 

in June, and thinned to 1 foot apart and allowed 
to remain, will produce plenty of tops at the 
proper time, say February and March. Snowball 
is a capital sort for every purpose. The ground 
must be rich.—H. Arundel. 

10893.—Rata In fernery.— Take fresh 
bread, butter, and sugar, and knead them up 
well. Cnt into pellets, and strew them in the 
rats’ runs, leaving water to drink easily acces 
sible. They will eat these. Do the same next 
night, adding, however, arsenic. The result 
next day will be very apparent. Also place 
tarred stones in the holes from which the rats 
issue, or, catch a rat alive and give him one or 
two dabs of tar; let him go thus. He will seek 
his comrades, but they will fly from him, and 
disappear from the neighbourhood.—M. W. R. 

10943.—Root pruning Roses— There is 
no need to shorten the roots at all—the more 
roots they have the better. Take the plants up 
carefully, so as to preserve all the roots, and 
plant again directly, mulching with some 3 
inches of manure. Stake them well as soon as 
planted, choosing a dry mild time for moving. 
Tread the soil well in round the roots, and water 
well in dry weather.—J. C. B. 

1091G.— Cutting back plants.— Neler 
prune in or pinch back ju« befofk or (dui 


diately after repotting. Either allow the lateral 
shoots to make an inoh or so of growth, or wait 
nntil the roots have taken well hold of the new 
soil. Shifting entails a check, and when stop¬ 
ping the shoots is done at the same time, the 
plant is doubly checked, and often does not com¬ 
pletely recover.—J. C. B. 

10926.— Plants damping off —From the 
description given, your plants are suffering from 
damp. You say they are well watered. I am 
sorry to hear it, for had you kept them for the 
last three months on a dry diet instead of moist, 
which would have allowed the plants to rest, 
they would now be repaying you by the leaves 
looking sound and healthy, instead of turning 
j ellow and dropping off.—A. N. 

10984.— Cineraria leaves ourllng.— This 
is nsnally caused by greeDfly. Mildew will also 
cause it, but not so much as green fly does. 
Fumigate the plants to destroy the green fly, 
and dust with flowers of sulphur for mildew. 
See that the plants are not exposed to cold 
draughts of wind, but let them be near theglazs 
and be rather freely aired.—J. D. E. 

10883. — Propagating Thorns and" 
Privets.—CuttiDgs of Privet put in either in 
autumn or spring root as readily as Willows. 
Use young shoots of the previous summer's 
growth. Thorns are best propagated from the 
heads which contain the seed.— J. Martin. 

«S6.— Camellias for profit.—Tomatoes and Roses 
could be grown under the roof and over the Camellias 
during the summer mouths, and would not be injurious 
to them. It would not do to heat the house before the 
Camellia blooms were gathered. A few vines might be 
grown over them. The Tomatoes would be as profitable 
as anything.—J. I). K. 

10971.—Pelargoniums and Cydamens.-The 
plants are Battering from the effects of a damp over-close 
atmosphere. You cannot maintain i uch plants In health, 
or even In life, In an unheated greenhouse. This has 
been an exceptionally mild winter. Give as much air 
as you can, and be careful not to spill water about.— 
J. D. E. 

10965.—Foxgloves not blooming. —The plants 
sown In spring of 1832 ought to have flowered well last 
season ; as they did not do so, and the plants are strong, 
they will be sure to flower daring the following season. 
They grow naturally and well in shady places. Perhaps 
their position again at a south wall is too hot for them.— 
* D. E. 

J10974.—Arranging heating apparatus.—To grow 
Tomatoes and Cucumbers In winter, j ou will require a 
flow and return 3-Inch pipe underne tth the pit for bot¬ 
tom heat, and two 4-Lnch pipes— a flow and return out¬ 
side the pit, for the purpose of heating the atmosphere 
of the house.—J. D. E. 

10987 .—Manure for Verbe ias.— Could you not 
obtain leaf or vegetable mould of any kind, at both are 
excellent for Verbenas ? (Inano Is an excellent manure, 
but should not he applied very thickly— a small handful 
belngenough for a square yard of ground.- J. D. K. 

10988 —Planting Strawberries.—July, August, or 
September are the best months to plsnt In. The plants 
should he 2 feet apart, and at that distance 10.690 plants 
would be required to plant an imperial acre.—J. D. F. 

10981 .—Primulas damping off—This Is ctused 
by a too low damp atmosphere during the winter months. 
If the plants were In a rather dry atmosphere of about 
50' they would not damp off.—J. D. E. 


James Austin.—Get two or three vols. of GARDENING 
Hi.ustratkd, and we think you will have all you re¬ 
quire ; price 7s. (id. each from our office. - Fitzreel — 

Mr. Ware, Hale Farm Nurseries, Tottenham, Loudon. 

Sam Hyde.—Tram any large seed house, auch as 
Carter's, Sutton’s, Webb’s, See. - An Amateur. —Sub¬ 

mit It to some good seed merchant. 

Miles.— Apply to Mr. Warhnrst, 83, Hlghgate Road, 
London, N. 

James Boyson. —Kindly repeat your query. 

Names of plants — M. S. C.—Speclea of Scllla, pro 

bably; cannot name without flowers.-S’. A. Brenan 

—Pittosporum nndulatum, Hellettorus atrorubena ; Gala* 
mintha grandifora Is a distinct plant from Betonica 
granditlora. — E. Anderson. —Iris fictidlsaima, called the 

Gladwin.- Miss Deyrrz. — LimnanthuB Douglas!.- 

J. Jones .— Lomarla glbba - Harry Friend.— Daphne 

lndlca rubra.-IF. S. Lucas and T. L.— Next week. 


QUERIES. 


middle of October, when there had already been a snow¬ 
storm. Also the mother plant, which flowers so profusely, 
has never been out at all. remaining all the year round in 
the cottage window, so that taking them in too soon can 
hardly be the cause of my Chrysanthemums not flowering: 
and as I did not stop the branches later than July, and 
then only the top ones, that can hardly explain the utter 
absence of flower buds. Can “ J. D. E. ” or anyone else 
say whether there are plants which never flower ? If so, 

I would get rid of these three large ones which take up 
so much room ; or is it possible that they are of some de¬ 
licate variety which will not bear beiDg planted out-of- 
doors at all T—M. B. 

11048 —Gladioli bulbs.— Last vear I planted a lot 
of Gladioli, and when they were fairly in bloom I cut 
off the flower spikes, and mulched round the bulbs with 
rotten manure about 3 inches thick and kept them well 
supplied with soft water until the leaves began to turn 
yellow, after which I gave no more water, but left them 
to ripen, my object being to get good large bulbs for this 
year; but when 1 lifted the bnlbs, instead of there being 
one large bulb as I hoped, there were three small ones to 
eachjWhich I fear will be of no use for flowering this sea¬ 
son. Will someone kindly inform me how to prevent the old 
bulbs forming a number of small ones, as 1 wish to make 
them form only one every year, which will bloom well 
the following season.—S icnarf. 

11044.—Hybridising flowers —Suppose two Cycla¬ 
mens, the one with stout dwarf foliage and covered with 
flowers, the stems of which rise only just above the 
leaves, though in themselves the flowers are poor, and 
another with lanky flower stems and leaves, but the 
flowers themselves are extra good. Now, say 1 want to 
cross these two so as to get the fine flowers on the dwaif 
plant (in the next generation of course). Firstly, is it 
possible by system ? Secondly, how is it to be accom¬ 
plished ? That the results are got we know, but are they 
obtained through skill and system, or la it merely that 
one excelling plant is picked out hero and there for 
seeding and these crossed promiscuously ? If anyone can 
help me in the above, I shall be very much obliged.— 
P. KEENE. 

11045.— Hibiscus syriacus.— I have an Hibiscus 
syriacus ; it is about a yard high and fourteen years old. 
It was mown in a pot until three years ago, when it was 
planted in the ground. Sinco then it has grown very 
little, and, although it has flowered as freely as usuul, 
the blossoms are smaller. The soil Is soiuv laches higher 
up the stem thau it was when the plant was in the pot. 
Is this the cause of its not growing T If so, how shall I 
remedy it ? I also desire to take some cuttings of the 
Hibiscus, and should feel obliged if someone will tell me 
how to take the cuttings, which season of the year is 
best, and if they will root most freely in a pot or in the 
ground. The only thing like glass I have at iny dis¬ 
posal is a window with a south aspect.—S outh ska. 
Amateur. 

note.— Chrysanthemums changing: colour.— 

I gave a description of Chrysanthemums changing colour, 
and I am doubted as to the fact. 1 can only say I have 
been here thirteen years, and the flowers have stood on 
a south wall all the while. When I came they waru 
vellow, white, and pink; the last two years they 
have all boen one colour—a dark pink, something 
the colour of claret. The flowers are fine, but 
the change of colour I can say is a fact. I have now 
taken them up, and transplauted some of them. Has 
anyone ever heard of this before ? I also have some 
handsome double yellow tulips. I want to know if they 
are left In the ground all tbo year round, if they will 
deteriorate ?—TliER field. 

11C47. — Potatoes scabby.— Two years ago last 
autumn, when I first came here, l found the garden had 
been very ranch neglected, in fact it was a bed of weeds 
and couch grass. It took me nearly all the first summi r 
to clean it; but last spring I dressed It with good stable 
manure, and planted It with Potatoes. I had a good 
crop of fair sized tubers, but nearly all the Borts were 
very scabby, so much so, that I eould not have exhibit) d 
any where if I had wanted to have done eo. Can ai y 
reader ted me the cause and remedy ? The soil is ligl t 
■and.—J. C. 

11048.—Hyacinths In water.—On the 12th Nov. 
last I plsceu in glasses two Hyacinth bulbs, viz., Norma 
and Grandeur a Merveille, and they stand at a window 
facing west; the water in the Norma glass continually 
gets quite thick in appearance, and so otfensive in smell 
that it is scarcely bearable, and accordingly has to be fre¬ 
quently changed, whilst the water In the Grandeur a 
Merveille glass is always perfectly clear. Can anyone 
tell me what 1 b the cause of the exceedingly unpleasai t 
smell which emanates from the one glass, and the means 
t j remedy it ?—J. 3. 

11049 — Cropping: a grarden.—Attached to a house 
1 have lately taken is a piece of ground about eighty 
yards from north to aouth, and twelve yards from east 
to west. It has not been properly cultivated for some 
years, but I am anxious to muke the most of it. The 
soil is good, and, judging from the market gardens about, 
will grow anythiug. Can any reader tell me if fish offal, 
of which I can obtain an almost unlimited quantity, 
would be good as manure, and how should it be applied, 
and to what crops?—AN IGNORAMUS. 

11050.—Orubs in new soil— My garden (small 
villa) was lost year planted for the first time in virgin 
soil. Almost everything, both flowers and vegetable, 
was devoured at the roots by grubs or insects ; hardly 
anything beyond a few perennials and annuals did any 
good. Con I destroy such insects by any dressing without 
destroying or disturbing perennials, Roses, Conifers, <fec. ? 
I have dug the ground well, and all that ib to be seen la 
a large grub of the caterpHlar species.— Would-be 
Flower Grower. 

11051.— Currant and Gooseberry trees.— I have 
a few small fruit trees, Gooseberry, black aud white 
Currant, in my garden. They yielded fairly last year, 
but have not had much attention bestowed upon them 
for some years. Would any reader kindly tell me what 
I could do to them now to make them good producing 
trees this summer? Is this the time to prune them ?— 
Tyro. 

11052.—Solanuma and Heaths. — I should be 
much obliged if any reader wouio advise me how to 


11041.—Compost for potting:.—Will some reader 
help a novice by telling him how to mix a good potting 
soU, say principally for Fuchsias aud Geraniums. I 
have endeavoured to follow the instructions sometimes 
laid down in Gardening of getting old sods and well 
rotted horse manure. I have been successful so far as 
the sods go, but the manure troubles me. I have had 
some several weeks under cover to dry, but it seems to 
be as wet as the first day I put it under cover. I then 
put some in a riddle on two bricks on the greenhouse 
flue. This was more than a fortnight drying, but then 
it formed itself into hard lumps, and I could not rub It 
tine between the hands like I could the old sods. I am 
wrong somewhere, and would be thankful to an rone 
who would help me out of my difficulty with a few hints 
on the repotting of my Fuchsias and Geraniums, with 
the beat time to begin.—A Novicb. 

11042.— Chrysanthemums not flowering.—I 

am obliged for “J. D. E.*s ’* answer to my question 10887._____, 

But the plants were not taken into the house until the I treat the Winter Cherry after the berries begin to dry 



678 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Feb. 16, 1884. 


up. Can the plant bo preserved tor next year, and how ? 
Also I should be grateful for any hints as to the treat¬ 
ment of Heaths after they have finished blooming. 
Mine seem to droop, although I give them plenty of air 
and a fair supply of water.— Clapham amateur. 

11063.—'Tomatoes in frames, &c.—Will someone 
tell me how 1 can successfully grow Tomatoes in an or¬ 
dinary frame with wooden sides ? Would they grow along 
the ground like Cucumbers ? Also can I grow and ripen 
them in a small lean-to house, which could not be alto¬ 
gether given up to them ? Would it do to plant them in 
pots, and train them Against the back wall ?—F. 

11064.—Single Dahlias.—Last spring I had a packet 
of single Dahlia seed, from which 1 raised some splendid 
varieties. Borne of them grew very strong, and formed a | 
great many tubers, and as I should like to make as many 
of them aa I can this year, I would be glad to know if 
each tuber will make a plant if I take it off the stem and 
pot separately.—J. C. 

11065.—Planting Vines.—Will yon kindly givo me 
the following information! I have a hip-roofed house 
24 feet by 10 feet, facing south, with an inside border 
6 feet wide, heated with hot water. Would,Black Ham¬ 
burgh Grapes do well in that space ? 1 could have 

t feet 6 inches or 3 feet of soil in border, and will Vines 
that were forced last year in pots do for planting, or 
must I have young ones f—C. C. 

11056. — Double Pyrethrums.—Some of your 
advertisers and contributors speak of i hese as flowering 
at all times. 1 have always for seven years had 
abundant bloom ou six varieties, for the month ending 
June 7, but not a flower at other times. Do the varieties 
differ in this respect! This year 1 shall be absent in 
May and June. How can I cause my plants to delay 
flowering till July 1 ?—E. E. H. 

11057.—Lime and slugs —About six months ago I 
obtained a large cask full of fresh lumps of quiok lime ; 
it has been kept in a dry room out oi reach of damp or 
wet, but it has all fallen to a fine white powder. Will 
some reader (who can speak from experience^ kindly say if 
It will kill slugs, <fec., if spread over and around plants, or 
is it useless for this purpose now that it has fallen to a 
powder 7 —Siomarf. 

11058.—Cutting do\*n Indlarubber plant.—I 
have an Indlarubber plant which is becoming too tall, 
growing very vigorously at top, and leaf after leaf drop¬ 
ping off below, Bhould 1 cut it down, and when? If it 
is cut down, should anything be done to prevent it 
bleeding, which it does if even a leaf comes off. What 
could 1 do to keep it bushy and dwarf 7 —Harcourt. 

11069.—Arum Lillee.—I have Borne Arum Lilies; 
they bloom every year, but I seldom have more than one 
blossom from each plant. How shall I treat them to 
have more blossoms each season. The plants are very 
healthy and are in bloom now. They are in a south 
window and get plenty of sun. 1 have no other glass.— 
SOUTHSEA AMATEUR. 


lioeo.— Spiraea p&lmata. — About three months 
since I put into pots three roots of this plant, which had 
been In the open ground since August last and had ap¬ 
parently made no growth. Was I right or wrong in so 
doing ? They have now lost the two or three leaves they 
once possessed, but I believe them still to be alive at the 
roots. What course of treatment should I now adopt?— 
F. 8. 

11061.—Frame for raising eeeds, &c —Having 
do opportunity for a hotbed, 1 should be glad to know if 
there is any plant-case or frame heated by paraffin or 
the like, which can be used effectively out-of-doors for 
the purpose of raising seeds and starting half-hardy 
be lbs, or which can be managed inside a large garden 
frame. I have no greenhouse.—A. J. 

11062.—Coke for heating.-Will “ M. R. C. S,” 
who wrote In Gardening, February 2, about coke, 
kindly tell me where 1 can get the fuel sold by the 
British Patent Coke Company ? I find that the ordinary 
coke cskea and sticks round 'he top of my stove during 
the night, does not fall, and the fire is out in the morn¬ 
ing?— Bedford. 

11063.—Good Apple district—Will any reader of 
Gardening oblige me with the name of the district in 
Oxford or Berkshire where the best Apples are grown ? 
I notice some very fine in colour in the London market 
from these counties—better even than those from 
counties with a higher repute for apple culture.—J. 
Bartrop. 

11004—Flowers for bouquets.—I would esteem 
it a great favour if any reader would kindly favour me 
with the names of, say a dozen, of the best hardy and 
half-hardy annuals for bouquet making for market pur¬ 
poses ; also the name of a few herbaceous plants best 
adapted for the same purpose.—O ne Interested. 


11005.—Cinerarias drooping.—I have many well- 
grown Cinerarias with large and good foliage, but many 
of them, as soon as they bloom, begin to droop and fall 
over, the flower stems apparently having no strength. 
r Tbe pots are well drained, and the plants have been 
well fed with manure water. Can anyone suggest the 
cause of failure in the blooms ?—Rode. 

11060 —Fruit trees from cuttings—In a recent 
number of Gardening I saw an article on “ Apple trees 
from cuttings.” Could I take the branches from an old 
Apple tree in my garden in the same manner ? I have also 
A Plum tree, part of which is dead ; could that be simi¬ 
larly treated ? Any information will oblige.—W. F. B. 

11007.—Worms In manure.—The leaf mould and 
manure 1 have are so infested with worms (many of them 
very small) that I should be greatly obliged for any advice 
as to getting rid of them. I want to use it tor potting 
purposes. - R, H. R. 


11068.—Border of annuals.—I wish to plant a 
ribbon border with annuals. The border Is two feet 
wide and twenty live yards long, sloping a little to the 
path facing south. Would any reader of Gardening 
kindly tell me the three best sorts to sow, when to sow, 
and what quantity of seed it wtll take ?— Amateur. 

11009.— Propagating- Gardenias. —Will some 
reader please instruct me how to propagate Gardenias? 
1 have six nlee plants Just read* to flower ; they are in a 
•iove the temperature of whfcli ranges from 70° to 76°. 

r iv ,w wm 


11070.—Pen tetemons—Can anyone give me dura¬ 
tion, colour, height, and flowering months of the two fol¬ 
lowing plants, seeds of which have been sent me from 
California, viz., Fentstemon azureus and Fentstemon 
spectabiiis?—W. T. H. 

11071.— Propagating Honeysuckles.— Can Loni- 
cera fragrantlsslma, the Honeysuckle now blossoming 
out-of-doors, be increased by cuttings taken now, and 
should the cuttings be from old or new wood ? Would 
layers succeed better ?—R. H. 

11072—Temperature. — What temperatures are 
generally meant by gentle heat, brisk heat, and the 
ordinary temperature of a hot bed, as I want to raise 
various plants by means of a propagator ?—T. W. 
Kirby 

11073.—Sparrows.—I Bhould be much obliged if 
anyone would tell me how to catch or get rid of sparrows. 
We have hundreds. They eat everything thoy can get 
at in tne garden, mix with the fowls and eat quite half 
their grain.—C. 8. L. 

11074.—Passion flowers not flowering.—Some 
Passion flowers in pots climbing the face of an east wall 
in conservatory will not flower. The plants were repotted 
last spring, but they flowered neither before nor since. 
What can be done ? Rode. 

11076.—Cucumbers In frames.—will someone 
kindly inform me how to treat Cucumbers in a frame, 
from the making of the hotbed in spring till the plants 
are killed by frost in autumn ?- G. G. 

11076.—Orchids.—I have had given me a few bulbs 
of Cyrtopera squalida, am told it is a lovely cool Orchid, 
but 1 have no directions for its potting or growing. Will 
someone kindly tell me this 1 —Orchid Novice. 

11077.—Planting potatoes.—I propose planting 
some of Button’s Fifty-fold Potatjcs in a small kitchen 
garden. How far apart would it be best to have the 
rows?—W m. Cross. 

11078.—Ants In greenhouse.—How can I get rid 
of ants from my greenhouse ? They have got into the 
cracks in the floor, and into the border, and bite away 
the blossoms of my plants ?—A. G. 

11079.—Jasmine cuttings.—Is this the time of 
year to put in cuttings of Jasmine, and will they strike 
in a cool greenhouse ? I shall be glad of any Information. 
— J. A. B. 

11080.—Ferns and Azaleas without peat.—I 
should consider it a great favour if someone would tell 
me if 1 could grow Azaleas, Camellias, and Ferns suc¬ 
cessfully without peat mould.—W. J. R. 

11081. — Annuals among evergreens.—What 
hardy early annuals can 1 sow to thrive and look gay in 
a shady place among evergreens exposed to north-west 
winds?—M ixes. 

11082 .—GraBS under trees.—I am much troubled 
with grass under trees not growing in consequence of 
the drip therefrom. I do not wi*h to cut down tne trees ; 
how could 1 improve the grass ?—JS. W. C. 

11083.—Improving pasture—The grass in afield 
close around my house has got very foul and rank ; what 
method could I adopt to Improve it, ^otherwise than by 
cropping or digging ?—E. W. C. 

11084—Dutchman's pipe (Ariafcolochla Sipho) — 
Will someone kindly Inform me where this plant can be 
obtained, when to plant out, and give any information 
in reference to its growth ?—EXON. 

11086.—President Garfield Tomato —Is this an 
early, free-bearing kind, and is this variety considered 
amongst Tomatoes in the same light as Telegraph among 
Cucumbers ? S. WANS. 

llO80.-GrubM in Paris Daisies.— Can anyone tell 
me how to destroy a grub which gets In mv Paris Daisies ? 
It is similar to the Celery grub, and gets into the leaf in 
the same way.—A Lover of Flowers. 

11087.—Sowing Anemones —When ought the seed 
of Anemones to be sown, and where (».*., in frame or 
otherwise), and when should the plants be put out ?— 
F. 8. 

11088.—Erigeron aurantiacum.—Having got a 
packet of seed of this plant, will some reader acquainted 
with its growth kindly Inform me the exact process to 
adopt in order to rear it with success ?—F. 8. 

11089.—Peas and mice.—Will someone kindly 
suggest a remedy to prevent Peas being destroyed by 
mice after they are sown? Traps are of no use. Could 
the Peas be dipped in any poisons ?—E. Robinson. 

11090 —Patent coke.—“ A Constant Reader " would 
thank “ M. C. V. 8." If he would give the address of the 
British Patent Coke Company. 

11091.—Wire for Peas.—I have several yards of gal¬ 
vanized wire netting,2-inch mesh, and 1 yard wide; could 
it be used for Peas?— Inquirer. 

11092.—Propagating Plum trees.—How can I 
propagate the Myrobella Plum, which is used for hedges ? 
—Rbldnao. 

lie93.—Indelible ink.—Can anyone give me a 
formula for making indelible ink for writing on zinc 
labels?—RELDN ac. 

11094.— Plants for window box.— What flowers 
will grow well in a window box, aspect north-east, in 
Westmoreland, climate wet T — Kirkby Lonsdale. 

11096.—Ribstone Pippin.—Will some reader in¬ 
form me, through your paper, if Ribstone Pippin Apple 
will bear well grown as a dwarf ?—R. P. A. T. 

11096.—Staking young trees.—Advice as to best 
method of staking and tying up young trees, and what 
material to use, would oblige,—E. W. C. 


Woodlice. —The only way in which we rid 
Mushroom houses of these pests while the beds 
are in bearing is to trap them and kill them, 
which may easily be done by the use of a num¬ 
ber of small flower-pots with a piece or two of 
boiled Potato in each as a bait, and a loose wisp 
of straw or hay as a shelter to the woodlice 
when they crawl in to feed. The pots should be 
examined every morning, and the woodlice 


emptied out into boiling water, or killed in soils 
other way so as to prevent their escape. Fowl! 
are very fond of them, and if carried to them a&4 
thrown down they will soon eat them all up. 
Woodlice only harbour and breed in dry places, 
and all parts of the house where these are 
should have boiling water poured occasionally <ja 
them ; if it does not reach all it will drive theia 
out and force them into the traps. When tie 
house is again clear, and before any fresh beds 
are made, it will be advisable to fumigate by 
burning sulphur, and if the door is kept cfe 
shut, the smoke will force its way into all the 
cracks and crevices, and settle accounts wi'h 
the woodlice, so that the next start may be made 
with a clean bill of health.—S. 


POULTRY. 


Fowls not laying. —I was much surprised 
to see in “ Andalusian’s ” answer to “ W. 
Currant,” in Gardening, that it is better to 
under than overfeed poultry, and I should like 
to ask for a little information. We keep Anda¬ 
lusians and a few odd hens for sitting, aboat 
twenty, but they do not lay very well. They are 
not shut up, but roam about where they like. 
Until this winter we have been without eggs 
from September till January, but this winter we 
have had two or three eggs a day. They are fed 
on soft food in the morning, and corn, either 
barley or Indian corn, in the winter at night, 
and in the middle of the day any scraps col¬ 
lected from the luncheon-table, with beer poured 
over them. I have always thought they were 
not fed enough to make them lay, but two Ply¬ 
mouth Rock pullets hatched last May have cot 
begun yet, though they look bo well and red, 
and one has gone into the nest several time? 
and left without laying, and the opinion is she 
is too fat! They always seem anxious for 
their food, and as they walk about I cannot set 
why they should be fat, as I always believed it 
useless to expect eggs in winter if hens are not 
very well fed. We find the old hens begin to 
lay earlier than the pullets, though the Anda¬ 
lusians seldom lay regularly. The soil is sandy 
and dry, and many people think that is the rea 
son why the hens do not lay well. Barley 
seemed to have a good effect upon them this 
winter, but I know of some Brahma pallets 
hatched about a fortnight after our "Rocks 
which have begun to lay, and they are shut tp 
and well fed. Brahmas never lay at all hardly 
with us, and it is no good keeping them. Only 
three or four eggs a day seem so few now fron 
sixteen hens and pullets.—L. A. N. 

Fowls giddy. —We have a Cochin China 
cock, seemingly in good health, feeds well, and 
look fat, but gets attacks of apparent giddiness; 
the least touch he will fall forward —seems to 
lose all power of control over his limbs. I hardly 
know how to account for the symptoms, or trial 
treatment to give. Can anyone kindly assist 
me. The birds are kept in a somewhat confined 
space, no grass run for them, but sand, Bikes, 
Ac. We feared it may be from want of more 
room and sun, but the others do not seem to 
be affected, and the hens lay very well.—E. 
Wheeler. 

Gapes In chickens.—I *hall feel obliged IX yon or 
any of your correspondents will inform me what v3i 
prevent chickens or young turkeys having gapes or bea-’I 
worms in their wind pipe? Any recipe as a prevent!” 
will be esteemed a favour by—H. R. 

Poultry moulting.—I Bhould be pleased to t* 
informed whether Brahma birds hatched the end af 
February or early in March would be likely to monlUb 
following autumn. —A Constant Subscriber. 

Eggs milky.—Will someone tell me the cau-H 
my hens’ eggs beiDg particularly milky and liquid aktfl 
the white part, even when well boiled?—E. M. H. 

Best ducks for laying.—Would someone kicily 
tell me what kinds of ducks are most profitable U 
laying ?—A C. 


Food for oanarles.— The only food It 
young canaries, besides the hard boiled egg at i 
soaked bread, is rapeseed which has been jflJ 
boiled, the water strained off, and the sed 
washed with a little cold water to take off a:y 
acid. Strain this water also off and give the kH. 
Plantain in full summer lasts well, Chickwod 
and Groundsel also.—A. Lohg. 

Budgerigars unhoalthy.-I hare two bode* 
gars which do not eeem at all well. They mope ir: •' ] 
up their feathers. Their for d Is canary Med. I ] 
he thankful for any Informatics respecting them *111 
ibey breed In ao aviary or breeding cage 7—Boimsarat. 




GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED 


Vol. y. 


ROSES. 

PROTECTING AND PRUNING TEA ROSES. 
Tea Robes are not only the most delicately 
beautiful and fragrant of all Roses, but likewise 
the most sensitive. They shrink from contact 
with severe frosts, and rush forth to welcome 
early sunbeams with equal alacrity. Hardly has 
the sun shone upon Teas with any heat than 
they begin to grow, and welcome the warmth 
with peeping buds and unfolding leaves. Such 
is the present state and dangerous condition of 
many of our Teas. Their early excitability has 
placed them at the tender mercy of March weather; 
and what cultivator has not painful memories of 
what that means! How best to fortify the 
plants to bear the coming strain is now the most 
trying of all problems to rosarians. To leave 
them alone is one method, and probably once in 
a dozen times it may answer. Last season was 
one of those exceptional springs, when those who 
either pruned their Teas in winter, or not at all, 
reaped an early and beautiful harvest, for in 
most localities even the early buds escaped de¬ 
struction. But it is dangerous to confide in the 
genialities of March; for once it is genial, it it 
harsh, stern, and destructive a dozen times. The 
majority of Teas have had more or less protec¬ 
tion. Already, on the 20th day of February, 
not a few of the plants have grown through it, 
having made from 1 inch to 3 inches of growth. 
What is to be done under these circumstances i 
Probably the best course is to remove the pro¬ 
tection and cut off most of the more forward 
shoots, thin out all weakly and superfluous 
growths, and retain a little protection. The 
latter can hardly be too slight and thin. Spruce 
or Yew boughs or Fern fronds are the best pro¬ 
tective materials. The effect of slight screens is 
twofold ; they keep out the heat as well as the 
cold, thus avoiding the two extremes that cause 
the destruction of Tea Roses. It must also be 
admitted that they shut out the light if used 
in excess, and that deprivation of light leads 
inevitably to weakness. Bnt, on the other hand, 
it is possible to screen out a good deal of heat 
and cold from our Roses without obscuring the 
light very seriously; it is astonishing what 
flimsy screens suffice to baulk the heating 
power of sunbeams and check the energy of 
radiation. 

Besides, the screen may be so akilfully disposed 
as to give it a maximum of protective with a 
minimum of obsenrative force. To this end it 
should crown the plants rather than closely en¬ 
velop them. So placed, plants may be protected 
without being sensibly weakened, the lower buds 
being as much as possible still exposed to the 
light. To ensure this twofold purpose, however, 
no merely haphazard mode of protection will 
suffice. On the contrary, the material used must 
be nicely adapted alike in quality, quantity, and 
position to the objects aimed at. The difficulty 
and delicacy of these needful adjustments of 
protection have decided not a few rosarians to do 
without it. In mild springs like these they run 
heavy risksof failure. They.however, trust mostly 
for safety in the knife. The more and earlier the 
V growth of these Tea Roses, the more severely they 
out them back. There is a double advantage in 
this; the lower they cut, the more dormant the 
* buds left, and consequently the longer they will 
be in breaking. Some carry this severe pruning' 
s - so far as to cut Teas back almost to the growing 
line. This latter plan answers well for late bloom, 
as Teas on their own roots mostly respond to 
this severe surgical challenge with a vigorous 
output of suckers or crown stems, that grow with 
vigour and bloom profusely. But such slashing 
pranings are more like recipes for the rejuvena¬ 
tion of exhausted Roses than the rational treat¬ 
ment of plants already in existence. The waste 
s- of time and material involved is too great for 
ri general adoption. 

The time for pruning Teas is hardly yet, un¬ 
less in exceptional seasons, snch as this promises 
to be. Towards the middle or end of March 
most Teas may be pruned and wholly uncovered 
without serious risk. This season the com- 
„ promise here recommended of immediate 
pruning and partial re-covering seems the best. 

Digitize, by GO glC 


FEBRUARY 23, 1884. 


method of treating Teas running wild in the end 
of February. Permit me also to state that Mare- 
chal Niel, being altogether a special Rose, is not 
included in any of these suggested methods of 
pruning Teas. F. 


The Rose election. —I am sorry that Mr. 
Walters, of Burton-on-Trent, did not give more 
particulars of the “ Rose election,” reported in 
a recent number of Gardening. I shall be very 
glad to hear more on the subject, and to learn 
how Mr. Hinton, of Warminster, collects the 
suffrages. I have very little fault to find with 
the first list, the new Roses since 1877 ; but the 
second list, the best older Roses, is past my 
comprehension. To estimate Jules Margottin 
and General Jacqueminot at If), Marie Bau¬ 
mann, Alfred Colomb, Marquise de Castellane, 
and Madame Victor Verdier at 11, Senateur 
Vaisse at 10, and Fisher Holmes at 9, is what no 
fellow can understand. To calculate Cheshunt 
Hybrid at 16 and Marie Van Houtte at 7, and 
not even name Catherine Mermet, Souvenir 
D’Elise, and Souvenir d'un Ami in the whole list 
of 30 Roses, is another puzzle, which almost indi¬ 
cates a necessity to extend the franchise in the 
empire of the queen of flowers.—K. W., Boston 

HOUSE AND WINDOW GARDENING. 

MESEMBRYANTHEMUMS AS WINDOW 
PLANTS. 

Few people now a-days care to grow Mesem- 
bryanthemums. Perhaps the name, consisting of 
almost two-thirds of the alphabet, is too long 
for most of us; or, it may be, that a certain 
obstinacy in this class of plants in refusing to 
flower, except under special treatment, is the 
reason; but somehow or other the tribe has 
slipped out of fashion, and when I offer plants 
or cuttings of these interesting and showy suc¬ 
culents to any friend, I am quite prepared to 
hear that they are declined with thanks. And 
yet indoor gardeners with a sunny sonth window 
to spare, could scarcely do better than to choose 
Mesembryanthemums as subjects of their care. 
Especially are they suited to those busy 
people who have fragments only of leisure 
time; for their wants, though imperative, are 
few, and a little neglect now and then does 
them no harm. But first, in the interest of 
fellow gardeners, let a simple English name be 
suggested which will meet our everyday wants, 
and save us from the Greek polysyllable, which is 
a puzzle to many. The name of Fig Marigold, 
ordinarily given to the genus, has always seemed 
to me a somewhat clumsy rendering of the 
flower, and one which, after all, gives no very 
distinct clue to its individuality. But by revert¬ 
ing to an old name, and with the change of a 
single letter, we get a simple translation which 
seems to answer every purpose. For Mesem- 
bryanthemum, once on a time, used to be written 
Mesembrianthemum, or Noon Flower, in allusion 
to most of the species opening under thefull blaze 
of the sun at mid-day ; and it was not until a 
later date that Dillecius (excellent botanist and 
etcher of plants that he was) did ns the ill- 
tnm of changing the “ i” into a “ y", in reference 
to the position of the fruit. We may not stretch 
the point too far, for the flowers of some species, 
once open, remain open until they fade. A few 
greet the early morning, and a few more are 
evening and, indeed, night-floweriDg. These 
are but exceptions to the rule, however, and I 
venture to suggest a return to the old character¬ 
istic name so suitable to the majority, as a good 
and simple way out of the difficulty. Noon-flower 
for the nonoe, then, let it be, and if it fit the 
gardener's fancy, the name is easy to bear in 
mind, and has a respectable origin to boot. The 
greater number of 

Noon-Flowers 

come to us from the Cape of Good Hope, where 
they grow in company with other succulent 
plants, in sandy, arid soil, for which they are spe¬ 
cially adapted by their peculiar self-supporting 
habit. But they are by no means confined to 
South Africa, for we hear of them in Egypt, in 
Australia and New Zealand, on the Californian 


No. 259. 


coast, in the neighbourhood of San Francisco, 
in Southern Europe, and lastly, in the Scilly 
Isles, where many of the genus are quite at home. 
Amongst the 300 species, or thereabouts, known 
to cultivation, it is not surprising to find much 
diversity of character—in duration of life, in 
branch, and in flower. Accordingly, there are 
annual, biennial and perennial Noon-flowers. 
There are Noon-flowers that creep and root at the 
joints, while others are stiff and upstanding 
there are shrnbby species with branching, woody 
stems, and species with no stem at all. The 
singular variations in the form of the leaves 
alone make the tribe an interesting one to study, 
to say nothing of the brilliant, many-hued 
flowers—rose-coloured, yellow, bronze, purple, 
and white, which, under good cultivation, are in 
the best species produced in greatabundance, and 
are remarkably attractive. Several species are 
tolerably hardy out-of-doors under certain con¬ 
ditions. If, for instance, these hardier sorts 
are planted on the top of a dry, sunny wall, they 
will often survive a mild winter, and what words 
can describe the beauty of a crumbling wall 
clothed in snmmer with such drapery as this 1 
There are records extant that fifty years ago in 
a Dorsetshire garden, one of the grandest and 
hardiest of Noon-flowers (M. rubiocinctum, or 
red-edged M), with dark crimson flowers 
3 inches across, might be seen blooming in the 
greatest profusion upon an old wall. A nearly 
allied and beautiful species —the Scimitar-leaved 
Noon-flower (M. acinaciforme), with purple 
flowers, was figured in the Botanical Magazine 
some years ago, from specimens sent from the 
Scilly Isles, where they are naturalised in similar 
situations. But there remains an open field for 
experiments in this direction, which it is to be 
hoped may one day be carried out. Unless 
under exceptional circumstances of climate, 
and soil, or position, however, Noon-flowers as 
a rule do better when cultivated in pots, for 
planting oat in the ordinary border induces a 
too luxuriant growth of leaf and stem at the ex¬ 
pense of flower. As window plants they succeed 
remarkably well. Many years ago, in driving 
through a country village, I saw, standing 
alone, in the upper window of a small cottage, 
a large and most beautiful plant in full bloom, 
which I have never forgotten. It was the 
notable Noon-flower (M. spectabile), covered 
with countless rose coloured blossoms qnite two 
inches across, and all wide open in the snmmer 
sunshine. Never since have I seen its equal, 
yet it was only a cottager who owned it, with 
no sort of advantage over her neighbours, save 
the sunny window in which it grew. But it 
supplies a hint as to treatment which Bliould 
not be overlooked. Noon-flowers should be 
grown apart from other plants, not only because 
they require a special treatment, bnt for another 
reason. According to “ Haworth,” a great 
authority on their cultivation, the succulent 
leaves of these plants possess a power of absorp¬ 
tion to so great a degree, that the moist exhala¬ 
tions from the leaves of other plants are apt to 
be highly injurious to them. Whether this be 
so or no, it is certain that they never succeed 
better than when grown apart by themselves in 
the dry air of a warm sunny window, close to 
the glass, for the greater part of the year. 

The Soil 

which best suits them is a light, well drained 
sandy loam, which need3 no farther enrichiDg. 
otherwise, even in pots, they are likely to go 
more to leaf than to flower. Neither should 
they be over-potted. For most kinds the pots 
known as 32's (4 inches by 5 inches inside mea. 
sure) are the most convenient, but some of the 
smaller species do better in 60s (2-in by 2J-in). 
It is well to mix a few small broken sherds with 
the compost used, for the roots of Noon-flowers 
seem to have a special attraction either to the 
sides of the pot or to the bits of earthenware 
which they may meet with in the soil. At all 
times Noon-flowers should be grown in full ex¬ 
posure to the sun. There is no fear with ordi¬ 
nary attention of their being scorched or dried 
op, for they cannot be too much roasted, which 
goes to prove that however great the power of 
absorption of moisture from the srirounding 




580 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Fbb. 23, 1884. 


air may be, the natural check upon evaporation 
mast be equally great. On the other hand, a 
cold, damp aspect will soon cause decay and 
death. I once tried to grow a small choice col¬ 
lection ot succulents in a north window, but 
though they existed, they neither throve nor 
bloomed until they were removed to a more 
favourable aspect. Noon-flowers need no more 
water than will keep them from shrivelling. It is 
impossible in their case, as in others, to lay down 
any positive rule as to watering, but the fleshy 
leaves and stems contain so much sap that an 
over supply of moisture distends their cellular 
substance already fully charged beyond its 
capacity, and the plants literally die of dropsy. 
Yet they require some water in proportion to 
the state of the weather and the size of the pots 
in which they are growing ; and an occasional 



Tic Great Yellow Noon-flower 
(Mestmbryaiithcmum pomeridisnum). 


application of soot-water is of benefit. One 
rule is of some importance. Cold water should 
never be given to succulent plants of any kind, 
and it should not only be “ off the chill,” but 
perceptibly warm to the hand when used. 
During the winter, water may be withheld alto¬ 
gether, unless the plants show signs of distress 
by a wrinkled appearance. The taller shrubby 
species require more water than those which are 
stemless. The latter, such as the Tiger-chap 
Noon-flower (M. tigrinum) and its allies, or the 
curious Dumplins (M. truncatellum and others), 
should never be watered over-head, as moisture 
lodging in the axils of the leaves causes speedy 
decay. 

Almost all Noon-flowers are readily increased 
by cuttings. The succulent species strike more 
freely than the more woody kinds. Cuttings 
should be taken from the young growths, and 
must be laid aside to dry fora day or two before 
potting. May is, perhaps, the best month for 
this purpose, but they are very accommodating, 
and will strike with tolerable readiness at any 
season, except, perhaps, in the dead of winter. 
A young stock should always be kept up, and as 
the old plants wear out, which they mostly do 
in about three years, they should be thrown 
away to make room for younger specimens, 
which are more shapely, and, in most species, 
flower more freely. For three or four months 
during the summer, the pots should be placed 
out-of-doors in full exposure to sun and air, 
which, in the case of all succulent plants, has a 
more beneficial effect in inducing free bloom¬ 
ing than any other part of their treatment; but 
a warm sheltered position must be chosen, and 
if under a wall so much the better. The pots 
should be set upon slates, as the plants are 
injured by being allowed to root through into 
the border. They must be removed to the 
shelter of the window or greenhouse not later 
than September. Many species, though not hardy 
enough to bear our winters out-of-doors, on ac¬ 
count, probably of damp, more than cold, only 
need protection from actual frost, and like 
plenty of air on fine genial days, even in winter. 
Kept dry at the roots, and covered with mats in 
a cold frame, they will bear even a few degrees 
of frost without injury. The Noon-flower tribe 
is less liable to the attacks of insects than other 
classes of plants, bnt slugs and snails are par¬ 
ticularly troublesome in making holes and 
otherwise disfiguring the juicy leaves, and should 
be guarded against, especially while the pots 
stand out-of-doors. There are not many 
Anhtjal 8psoi*s 

which are worth growing. The best known b 


the Ice plant, which is used for the garnishing 
of dessert dishes. Two varieties, if not species, 
of Ice plants are common in our gardens. The 
older and smaller of these is M. crystallinum, 
which was named by Haworth the Diamond 
plant; but a kind larger in all its parts, and 
somewhat less incrusted with glistening points, 
is very general, and is perhaps the true M. 
glaciate or Ice plant of Haworth, and it is this 
which I usually find to be the product of a packet 
of seed. Two other annual species, however, 
are well worth growing. . M. pomeridianum, the 
great yellow Noon-flower, which opens at mid-day, 
as its name implies, produces its handsome lemon 
coloured flowers, which measure three inches 
across, throughout the summer. Single plants 
of this species will cover a considerable space, 
and it is admirably adapted for clothing a bare 
dry rockwork in a sunny exposure. As an edging 
for a border, I have found it somewhat too coarse 
growing, but a very wet season spoiled the suc¬ 
cess of the experiment. M. tricolor is a small, 
close growing species, of very different habit, 
with charming pink and white flowers, with a 
dark centre, about the size of a shilling. It 
takes up but little space, and is useful as a 
carpeting plant. Neither of these open their 
flowers, however, except in bright sunshine. 
Annual species can only be raised from seed, 
which should be sown in March in gentle heat, 
if possible, and planted out, after all danger 
from frost is over, in the beginning of Jnne. "With 
such treatment they succeed better than when 
confined to pots, and are finer in every way, 
but seldom ripen seed. 

Perennial Species, 
some of the finest of which have already been 
alluded to, make better pot plants, and there 
are many more to add to the list. Closely allied 
to the notable Noon-flower (M. spectabile), are 
two others equally beautiful and of similar 
dwarf Bhrubby habit, differing from it chiefly 
in the colour of their flowers and in the manner 
of growth of their leaves which are more or less 
arranged in bunches on the woody stems. These 
are M. amcenum and M. conspiouum. Both are 
showy species, with cylindrical pointed leaves 
and large flowers, which are rosy-lilac and dark 
red respectively, and which expand at noon on 
bright days and go on blooming for some weeka. 
The flowers open for several days in sneoession, 
but gradually lose the power of closing again as 
they approach maturity. Young plants bear 
the finest flowers, but under the treatment 
which suits them, old plants become splendid 
specimens,like that in the cottage window before 
mentioned. Cuttings should be put in early in 
spring, and strike without difficulty. Neither of 
these, as far as my experience goes, is hardy, but 
they succeed admirably in a sonth window, 
where they may be secured from frost during 
the winter, or in a greenhouse. 

Another group of Noon-flowers consists of 
those of upright woody habit, and may be re¬ 
presented by several extremely fine and free- 
bloomiDg species. In this section are found 
some of the hardiest of the genus, requiring no 
artificial heat, and as much air as possible at all 
seasons when there is no danger of frost. The 
first of these to flower is the Golden Noon-flower 
(M. aureum), which sometimes begins to bloom 
as early aa February, and continues to open its 
flowers until October. It is to be distinguished 
by the purple centre of its bright yellow 
flowers and the red-iipped points cf its 
leaves. M. aurantiacum, of very similar 

habit, is more bronze than orange in its colour¬ 
ing, and there is also a pore white sort, which 
for want of a better name I label as M. album, 
but whether it is merely a variety or a species I 
am unable at present to say. White flowers are 
somewhat rare thronghont the tribe. One of 
the oldest and, at the same time, one of the 
most hardy of Noon-flowers known to cultiva¬ 
tion, is M. glaucnm, with large and very beantifnl 
lemon-coloured flowers. This Bpecies would be 
likely to succeed well if planted on a wall if it 
could be induced to survive the winter, for I 
have noticed that old plants bloom more freely 
than young ones. It is decumbent in habit, and 
in old specimens will fall over the side of the 
pot and turn up its blossoms to the sun. There 
are others belonging to this group of Noon- 
flowers which are yet more beautiful and inter¬ 
esting, such as M. variabile, with flowers of vary¬ 
ing shades of yellow; M. versicolor, with flowers 
which change colonr in the ourse of the ds.y , 


and M. striatum, with striped flowers, a species 
which used formerly to be grown by the thou¬ 
sand, but these are not now so easily to be met 
with. A favourite and distinct species of another 
class, M. inclaudens, does not answer to the 
name of Noon-flower, for its purple blossoms 
remain open day and night. This is one of the 
most familiar of the kinds now in cultivation, 
remaining to ns as a relic of other days when 
these interesting plants were considered more 
worthy of attention. Another fine species is 
M. lacerum, with large rose-purple flowers which 
also do not close when the sun goes down. It is 
a tender sort, and more impatient of cold than 
most of the others. The gem of my own small 
collection is, perhaps, the very dwarf shrubby 
M. polyantbon, a veritable Noon-flower, with 
small bnt numberless bright purple blossoms, 
almost dazzling to look upon in broad suDligbt. 
It seems to succeed best when renewed by cut¬ 
tings every year, set thickly in large shallow 
pans, in which they may be allowed to flower. 

For the sake of those who like to cultivate 
curiosities of plant life, the following should 
not be omitted. They form a series of what 
Sir J. D. Hooker has aptly termed “ vegetable 
oddities." M. tigrinnm—the Tiger-chap—re¬ 
presents a number of stemless Noon-flowers, with 
singular boat-shaped leaves, beset with sharp 
reenrved teeth, which resemble in no slight de¬ 
gree the gaping jaws of a ferocious wild 
beast. These are named according to the 
number and vicious look of their leaf-teetb, 
after various animals, eg., the cat, the fox, the 
weasel, the mouse, etc. The flowers of all this 
section are yellow, and open about 5 o'olock in 
the afternoon. Another set of stemless Noon- 
flowers are the Dnmplins, ranging from the size 
of an apple in M. truncatellum, the great dotted 
Dnmplin, to that of a tolerably large button, in 
M. nuciforme, or nut-shaped M. These are also 
mostly yellow flowering, bearing a solitary blos¬ 
som in the centre of the fleshy lamps, which, in 
their case, do duty for leaves. These curiosities of 
nature require a dry, warm position close to the 
light, either in a warm window or planthouse, 
with very little water, especially during the 


! 



Three-coloured Meaembryanthemum (M. tricolor). 


winter, and are interesting by way of variety; 
but enough has been said to put ns in mind of 
the existence of a race of plants which haw 
been too long and most undeservedly neglected. 

K. L.D. 


Ivy for indoor decoration.— DnringA* 
winter months when flowers are scarce Ivy come 
in moBt opportunely for the decoration of apart¬ 
ments, vases, &c. Long slender Bprays of tbi 
small leaved wild English Ivy that run ore 
wooden fences or in hedgerows, make excelled 
material for garnishing, either by themselves M 
in conjunction with other sprays of shrubs « 
trees. For instance, large vases may be mes 
effectively filled with Ivy alone by using tie 
long trailing sprays of these small leaved Mr* 
for covering the stems and falling carelw? 
over the edges of vases, while the centres nf 
be filled with Irat e pieces of older growth of * 




Fed. 23, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


581 


large leaved Irish kind that is covered with 
black shining berries, and some of the varie¬ 
gated kinda are most striking when contiasted 
with the dark leaves and berries of the old wea¬ 
ther beaten foliage of the mature shoots. In 
mixed decorations the Ivy is of great assistance 
for garnishing or fringing the edges of vases 
filled with a mixture of Vincas or Periwinkles, 
the brozny foliage of Berberis Aquifolium, the 
feathery shoots of some of the most graceful 
Conifers, a few plumes of Pampas Grass, or the 
half opened pods of the Gladwinlris, shewing its 
brilliant coloured berries, and shoots of Hollies, 
both berried and variegated. In these days, 
when indoor decoration of some kind or other 
are so eagerly sought after, it is far better to 
make the best use of such hardy materials as are 
abundant and within our reach, than to have a 
1 meagre display of flowers that are forced into 
flower in high temperatures, and therefore are 
but very transient in their duration. If Ivy 
were not so plentiful it would be far more highly 
prized, for a spray of the wild woodland Ivy is 
the perfection of what is needed for personal 
decoration.—J. G., Hants. 

Ferns in wardian case.—I have a case 
3 ft. long, 2 ft. deep, and 3 ft. high, with a span 
roof. It will stand in a southern aspect on a 
landing, and I wish to grow Ferns in it. Will 
some reader kindly tell me the kind of Fern I 
am most likely to succeed with ? The door of the 
landing is of ground glass, and the sun does not 
reach the case exoept during the months of July 
and August. Could I grow such as Pteris 
scaberula, P. serrulata, and Adiantum setulosum 
in cocoanut shells suspended to the roof ? Any in¬ 
formation likely to bring about successful results 
will oblige.— Amateur, 


should be potted singly and grown on in a cold 
frame, and they come in very useful to make a 
fresh plantation in April or May. New varie¬ 
ties are largely produced annually. In Scotland, 
as well as on the Continent, the raisers are 
always busy, and perhaps there is some reason 
to think they are multiplied a little too fast. 
We can scarcely advise cultivators to trouble 
much about raising seedlings, but there is 
always a peculiar pleasure in doing so, though 
the results may not be such as might be de¬ 
sired. Borne care is required in raising seed¬ 
lings, and a cold treatment is the best. Self- 
sown seed will lie in the soil all the autumn 
and winter, and grow up into plantB in spring. 
— It. 

Striped Polyanthus.—I observe in a 
recent issue of Gardening an engraving of a 
striped seedling Polyanthus. With this you 
will receive a flower of one which flourished in 
a country garden in Morayshire, N. B., more 
than forty years ago. I liked it, and have care¬ 
fully preserved a plant of it. By its side used 
to grow in luxuriance the splendid Auriculas 
Grand Turk and Blue Admiral. Where are they 
now 7 For years and years I have searched for 
a plant without success. No alpine of the 
present day is, in my opinion, equal to them. 
Is my Polyanthus the same as the seedling 7— 
H. M. M. [The Polyanthus sent was very 
pretty, but not so good as regards size and 
substance as the striped flowers raised from seed 
of the present day.—E d.] 

The Auricula. — Having grown a good 
many Auriculas from seed, and also kept up a 
stock of my best seedlings by slips, I may be 
excused in giving my opinion on some of the 


11022.—Arum not flowering.—It is not 
an uncommon occurrence in the depth of winter 
to see the above throw up its flower spathes and 
remain unopened for several mon ths, owing to the 
want of light and heat. If “ Flora ” will take 
the Arum out of the water, and add a little 
patience, it will open its flowers all right. Al¬ 
though it is an aquatic, it is better in the dark 
days of winter to keep it out of water when 
grown as a pot plant, especially if in a window, 
as the water is apt to become stagnant and turn 
the mould sour.—W. K. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


i Tall herbaceous Phloxes.—There is now 

\ an immense variety of Phloxes, and when an 
admirer of these most useful hardy flowers gets 
a catalogue containing a list of very nearly one 
hundred varieties, he is naturally enough some¬ 
what at a loss what to select; and it is not 
always wise to leave the selection to dealers, for 
they make up a select collection according to 
the varieties they have in stock, and what they 
can best supply. When looking over a fine and 
select collection at Messrs. Sutton & Sons’ 
y rortland fload Nurseries, at Beading, last 

{ August, I jotted down the names of the follow¬ 
ing varieties as being especially fine and well 
deserving of being included in a select collec- 
5 tion : Coccinea, rich crimson-scarlet, very effec- 
J. tive'; resplendens, bright rosy scarlet, very fine ; 
| Boule de Feu, bright fine red, striking in colour ; 
f Madame Guldenschuch, rosy violet, with 
scarlet and purple centre, very fine; Roi de 
Saumon, rich rosy salmon, very effective; 
Souvenir de Berryer, deep lilac mottled with 
0 white, distinct and pleasing; Czarina, one of 
the very best white varieties, extra fine; Madame 
Manuel, very pretty; Bichard Wallace, rosy 
scarlet, extra fine form ; Monsieur Marin Saison, 
jlred, suffused with orange, crimson centre, very 
ft striking ; Madame Mouisset, bright rose, suffused 
^ with carmine, crimson centre; La Candeur, 
t white, fine form; and Dr. Masters, rosy salmon, 
very fine. These were growing in well culti- 
vvated soil in the open ground, and had thrown 
■ap strong growths, so that each plant produced 
1 -a few spikes of very fine flowers. It is in this 
jWay a bed should be grown, but I would suggest 
fithat young plants be raised from cuttings about 
Lonce in three years, so that at intervals of that 
vtime beds may be renewed. And as improve 
foments are made in old varieties, these Iasi 
' should be rejected and the new forms substi¬ 
tuted for them. Fine young plants can be 
^formed by making cuttingsof the young growths 
thrown u p in autumn, or by taking out fresh 
tooted shoots at that season ft the year. ' ru '~" 




■gn> 



The Tiger-chap (Mesembryanthemum tigrinum). 


characteristics of this plant. The best time to 
propagate from slips is the first week in August, 
displacing the shoots with the finger, taking 

care not to injure the parent plant. The slips, 
being placed in small pots containing a suitable 
compost and afforded slight protection, will be 
well established before winter, and by spring 
they will have attained a good growth. The 
best method to obtain Auriculas from seed is to 
select some of the best sorts, young and healthy 
plants, and remove them to an exposed place 
where they will get plenty of sun and air, pro¬ 
tecting them from excess of rain. When the 
seed is ripe it should be gathered, and it may 
be sown in pans about the first week in March. 
When the seedlings are strong enough to handle, 
prick them out in a spare frame or sheltered 
border to stand the Bummer. The following 
characteristics distinguish a good or fine Auri¬ 
cula, viz., the stem should be long and erect, 
tube round, and of a yellow hue, foot stalks 
strong and elastic, the petals round at the 
edges, the eye round and white, the exterior 
with a ground colour, being uniform and rich; 
the green margin must also be in proportion to 
the ground colour; the flowers on the truss 
should stand boldly out, without the least ten¬ 
dency to overlap.— Kirkton. 

How I grow Violets.— As I have been 
very fortunate in growing and flowering Violets 
during the winter, even without the help of a 
frame, perhaps a few hints to the readers of 
Gardening who have not been so successful 
may be useful. The Neapolitan I find does best 
for winter flowering. After the flowering 
season is over, I always make it a rule to dig up 


the old bed, and after nicely dividing the roots 
replant them into a fresh piece of ground that 
has been got ready for them. A half shady 
border in the kitchen garden is a suitable place 
for them, and from these plants I look for my 
winter supply, as I find they flower much better 
than runners taken during the early summer, 
which latter, of course, are better for a later 
spring supply. By planting the bed about 4 feet 
wide and setting the plants 9 inches apart, they 
can be protected by small Fir boughs placed in 
the ground and made to meet at the top, which 
answers very well during sharp weather ; during 
the summer a good dressing of rotten leaves is 
beneficial to them. I have even during this 
winter been able to pick not a few, but a fair 
supply of flowers. I hope others who have not 
been successful with their Violet beds will try 
the above plan, which will, I am sure, well repay 
the trouble.—J. W. 

Snowdrops. —Besides the common Snow¬ 
drop (Galanthus nivalis), of which there are 
several varieties, there are two other distinct 
species, both of which are now in flower. 
The first of these is the Crimean Snowdrop (G. 
plicatus) the flower of which is soarcely to be 
distinguished except by its larger size from the 
ordinary kind, but its much broader leaf curling 
back at the edges serves at once to mark it as a 
different species. It is an old and long known 
inhabitant of the Caucasian mountains and the 
region thereabout, but has only come into notice 
in this country within the last five and twenty 
years, from being associated with memories of the 
Crimean war. The other Snowdrop is a com¬ 
paratively new species found in the mountainous 
district about Smyrna, and is named after its 
well-known introducer—G. Elwesi. To the un¬ 
learned, the difference consists wholly in the 
distinct green markings on the petals, which are 
plainly enough to be seen on comparison with 
others, and it is also a fine large-flowered kind. 
Both species are very interesting and should be 
grown in considerable numbers. When in a situa¬ 
tion that suits them, the distinctions may be ob¬ 
served at a glance ; but to prevent disapoint- 
ment, it may be as well to state that the 
differences are not so apparent that they would 
immediately attract the attention of an un¬ 
practised eye.—K. L. D. 

The earliest Daffodil —The introduction 
of a new and very early-flowering single Daffodil 
is a boon to all Daffodil lovers. Perhaps it 
would be more correct to say the recovery of an 
old species, which it is reported to be, but at 
any rate, there are blooming in a glass on my 
table specimens of a very lovely flower of a 
pale, soft, sulphur colour, which may surely 
claim to be the earliest of the season. They 
were gathered in Mr. Barr's nursery at Tooting, 
where at the present time some thousands of 
this charming Daffodil are in process of being 
planted. These have lately beeu received from 
South Europe, but large numbers of flowers 
have already been cut from bulbs planted last 
year. In general appearance this Daffodil 
nearly approaches our native N. pseudo Narcis¬ 
sus, but it blooms fully a month earlier, and is 
quite distinct from that species, since it is 
almost, if not quite, self-coloured.—K. L. D. 

Sweat Peas. —I am surprised that anyone 
should find that they cannot make Sweet Peas 
answer by sowing them in pots and turning 
them out in the open air when well up. Perhaps 
they have used heat in raising them, or perhaps 
they have disturbed the roots in turning them 
out. Of course, in many places Sweet Peas will 
come up well if sown in the open ground, but in 
many others, town gardens especially, they are 
very apt to be eaten by slugs, whereas a good 
potful, C inches high, would escape their ravages. 
The beginning or middle of February is quite 
time enough to sow them, and they may be 
placed in the window of any room where there 
is not much heat. When the unprotected kitchen 
garden Peas are being staked is the time to 
plant them out, and care should be given to 
watering them.—A. P. 

TropsBOlum speoioaum.—After two or 
three failures we have succeeded in growing this 
Tropseolum in the south of Ireland and on a dry 
gravelly subsoil. It has established itself on a 
part of the rockery which is partially shaded in 
summer by a Sycamore. As few summer plants 
grow on this shaded bit of rockwork, it can 
come up when it pleases (by no means always 



582 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Frb. 23, 1884. 


in the same spot), and scramble over anything 
it can lay hold of. It looked especially pretty 
last summer climbing up the tall flower-stalks 
of Campanula pyramidalis. It receives no par¬ 
ticular treatment; the soil is not rich, but a 
top-dressing is annually given. Once the 
plant is established it should be left undis¬ 
turbed. This Tropieolum grew well against the 
houBe amongst Ivy on a north wall, but. dis¬ 
appeared last year, probably killed by Blugs.— 
C. M. O. 

11009.— Pansies, “3elfa.”— A self-coloured 
Pansy is one that is of one colour only, except 
the blotch. This must be darker than the 
ground colour, and the clearer it is cut round 
the edge the better it is. Of course, if you get 
a Black Pansy, it is not possible to have a blotch, 
for the simple reason that there is nothing 
darker than black. This is the only exception 
to the rule, but a dark Pansy may have white 
eyebrows. This will not disqualify it from being 
a “ self ” There may be some bedding Pansies 
without any blotch Of these I have no know¬ 
ledge, as I only grow the very best that I can 
get for competition. I will give the names of 
some of the best show “seifs ’’ that I know. 
Durl:: D. Malcolm, Artemus, James McKay, 
Peter Lyle, J. P. Barbour, A. Watt, Kev. J. 
Morrison, Mauve Queen. White: Mrs. Dobbie, 
Mrs. Cadzow, and Silverlight. Primrose: Miss 
L. H. Bowie. Blue: Sunny Park Rival. Yel¬ 
low : Gomer, Lizzie Stewart, William Crochart, 
and G. Macmillan. These can all be trusted to 
hold their own in good keen competitions.— 
TnoiiAS H. Davis, Southwell. 

- A self Pansy is one having one colour 

only, either black, purple, plum, puce, or any 
other dark shade, blue, yellow, white, &c. All 
Pansies used for exhibition purposes have 
blotches. A self should be of the same shade 
throughout, not lighter in one place than 
another. The denser the blotch the better. In 
very dark seifs the blotch is bid by the darker 
body colour. There are some self Pansies with¬ 
out a blotch, but they are only intende 1 for 
bedding out purposes, and would deserve to be 
disqualified if shown on an exhibition stand.— 
George Henderson, Southwell. 

- There are white, yellow, and dark- 

coloured seifs of various shades of colour. Most 
of the dark seifs have a yellow eye. The white 
and yellow seifs have dark centres. It would be 
difficult to find any without this. A few of the 
best are the following: Deerh: Black Bess, A. 
McNab, Robert Patrick, and William Dean. 
Yellow : Celestial, George Rudd, King Koffee, 
Mrs. Hayter, and New Guinea. I do not know 
any white varieties but what have blotches. The 
best are Alpha, John Pope, Mrs. Laing, Miss 
Tyrwhitt, and Mrs. Hobbs.— J.D. E. 

The winter Heath.— Standing in the 
early spring sunshine before a spreading mass 
of Erica carnea, I cannot help wondering that 
it is so seldom seen in even the best of gardens, 
public as well as private. There is a white 
variety, but I prefer the pink one with its dark 
brown cluster of anthers thrust outside its little 
flisk-shaped bells. It lasts long in a cut state ; 
its sprigs and slender sprays of rosy pink 
flowers are useful for bouquets, and it is as 
hardy as a bit of the granite rock beside which 
it nestles. Perhaps this is one reason of its 
having gone through the “ middle ages ” of 
neglect.—P. 

Hardy Oyolamens.-- Amongst the few 
flowers which bloom naturally out of doors at 
this season, the varieties of Cyclamen Atkinsi 
should not be overlooked. In Mr. Barr’s experi¬ 
mental grounds at Tooting, some small beds 
planted in Grass at the foot of a fine Elm, and 
covered at the present time (February 7) with 
crimson flowers just peeping up through the fine 
s Dreading foliage, serve to show bow good the 
t ff-.ct might be if these lowly plants, singularly 
beautiful both in leaf and blossom, were suit¬ 
ably made use of in our gardens. There are 
several varieties, which range in colour from 
white to crimson.—K. L. D. 

Clematises.—C. Honda is one of the most 
charming plants imaginable, its beautiful white, 
single. Anemone-like blooms lasting for a month 
or six weeks at a time. At a place in Norfolk 
one was planted against an Apple tree standing 
in the pleasure ground. It climbed all over the 
top of the tree, and when in bloom was a sight 
not soon *o rbe rorgotten, IIovj beautiful it 


would be in the wild garden climbing about 
everything with which it comes in contact. C. 
Flammula is another lovely old plant for the 
wild garden, climbing about, as it does, on every¬ 
thing it can get hold of; it is so useful for cutting, 
too, for lighting up bouquets or vases in rooms, 
or for the hand.—E. S. 

11034. — Moving Wallflowers. — The 

best time to move these is October. They may 
be moved now, but it will hurt them for flower¬ 
ing ; the trusses will be much smaller and not so 
many of them. We always find it best to sow 
the seed in April, transplant in June, 9 inches 
apart. Of course they want looking to in water¬ 
ing until they are established, which will be in 
about ten days, unless the weather is very dry, 
when they must be treated accordingly. A damp 
day is always preferred for transplanting. We 
discard the old plants every year, although we 
have seen old plants bloom fairly well in poor 
soil for several years in succession, but in good 
soil the young ones are undoubtedly the best.— 
W. R. 

11011. — Dlelytra epectabilis. — We 

adopt the following method of protecting this 
plant with success : Mulch in the autumn with 
manure ; when the crowns show in spring, cover 
lightly with dry fern (straw or hay will do) 
When they are about 6 inches high we get 
branches of spruce and stick them around each 
clump. The branches are about a yard high, 
and we put about three or four to each clump. 
The above method we find is also equally good 
in breaking cold cutting winds from tender 
plants in spring, which are very often more 
destructive than frost.—W. R. 

Lobelia Swanley Blue.— I find for all 
purposes this is the best Lobelia; the colour is the 
finest soft blue imaginable, habit dwarf and 
bushy, flowers almost twice as large as those of 
any other variety. Last summer, when all others 
were completely wretched, this one with me was 
fresh as when planted. It is also a good one to 
keep through the winter, and it can be propa¬ 
gated freely.—H. Le Maont. 


THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. 

Glasshouses. 

General w ork.— Chinese Primulas required 
for Beed should not be burdened too much ; 
therefore reduce the quantity of flowers on each 
plant to one or two trusses, according to the 
strength of the plants. Hyacinths and Tulips 
should be kept as cool as possible, and in light 
houses. Lachenalias are now blooming pretty 
freely ; keep them near the glass and treat them 
liberally. Statices should be repotted and kept 
in the warmest part of the greenhouse. Save 
seeds of Solanum capsicastrnm ; cut down the 
old plants and use the young shoots for cuttings. 
Repot and remove for the same purpose the 
suckers of Calla aethiopica. Cut off the ends of 
the branches, and thin plants of Veronica 
Andersoni ; then start them into growth. Kalo- 
santhes coccinea should be repotted in a com¬ 
post of good loam and some thoroughly decayed 
manure. Cut back Bouvardias that have done 
flowering, and use the young shoots for propa¬ 
gating. Cut back, repot, and start into growth 
some plants of the Lemon-scented Verbena. 
Repot and stake choice Petunias, and sow some 
seeds in light soil in gentle heat for conserva¬ 
tory decoration; the surplus may be economised 
for bedding purposes. Mimuluses of the finer 
varieties, as well as Musk, may be potted in two 
parts loam and one of decayed manure, with 
some sand ; they soon grow and form neat 
flowering plants. Wire baskets containing the 
latter, and also others planted with Saxifraga 
sarmentosa, may now be made up either for the 
window or for suspending from the roof of the 
greenhouse. 

Azaleas. —Any of these that have been 
forced should, directly they have ceased bloom¬ 
ing, be placed where they will begin to grow ; if 
put now in a cold house the growth, which the 
heat to which they have been subjected to bring 
them into flower will have excited, will receive 
a check, and the plants will be injured. Be very 
careful to see whether there are any thrips upon 
them ; should these be found, give a good wash¬ 
ing with Tobacco water. 

'Cinerarias and Calceolarias —Cinerarias 
will now be pushing up their flower-stems. 


and will be benefited by using altogether 
liquid manure of a moderate strength; this 
treatment will be found of greater efficacy to 
the plants than giving it in a stronger state 
alternatively with clear water. If tome of these 
late-sown Cinerarias be removed to a frame 
placed where it will not be directly under the 
influence of the sun, the supply of these useful 
flowers will be considerably prolonged ; all the 
protection they will now require can be given, 
should a little frost occur, by shaking some 
litter round the sides of the frame, and covering 
the lights with a couple of mats. Herbaceous 
Calceolarias, that have now filled their pots 
with roots and are pushing up their flower-sterns, 
will have their blooming capabilities much in¬ 
creased by the continuous use of liquid manure: 
these should be in a warmer place than the 
Cinerarias, and a vigilant look-out kept to see 
that aphides do not get established upon either 
of them. 

Chrysanthemum cuttings struck at the end 
of the year will by this time be well rooted and 
hardened off; they should be at once moved 
into fi-inch pots, using ordinary loam made rich 
with one-third rotten manure and leaf-mould in 
equal proportions, to which a little sand has 
been added. It will be necessary todecide upon 
the desired shape of the plants; in most cases 
it is advisable to adopt two or three forms, but 
the fiat, Mushroom-headed fashion should never 
be followed. The most generally useful for de¬ 
corative purposes are plants with a dozen or 
more shoots, ultimately' trained with just as 
many stioks as will support them. All plants 
intended to be grown thus should, at the time 
of potting, have the points pinched out to in¬ 
duce them to break several shoots; this shape 
will be found the most suitable for the medium- 
sized, freest-flowering of the large varieties, and 
also for the Pompones. Many of the large 
kinds that produce the finest individual bloom- 
are not capable of being seen in their best form 
if many flowers be allowed each plant; for or¬ 
dinary purposes, six or eight will be enough on 
each; for growing in this way, the plants must 
be al-o stopped now to cause them to form three 
or four shoots. Amateurs who are disposed to 
attempt the production of a few of the fins-: 
flowers may do so by only allowing each plan; 
in a 9-inch or 10-inch pot to carry from one to 
three flowers; these will be found very effectivr 
when in bloom if arranged in the greenhouse 
amongst the dwarfer growers, relievirg the ev;c 
surface, which is justly held objectionable in > 
stage filled with Chrysanthemums of nearly th« 
same height. To grow them in this way the 
young plants now potted should not be stopped 
at all, but simply trained to a single stem all 
through the season, allowing it to branch out in 
the summer near the top to as many shoots si 
it is destined to carry flowers. 

Stove plants. —Bougainvilleas and Alla- 
mandas started last month reduce, repot, and 
train before the young growths get too far ad¬ 
vanced. Cut back later plants for succession ad 
encourage the bnds to break before they sra 
disturbed. Encourage Clerodendrons and train 
the past year’s growths regularly over the trellis 
on which they are intended to bloom. If young 
stock of any of the above is wanted, fine yooeg 
shoots taken off with a heel when 4 inches to 
8 inches long will strike readily in bottom-beat 
of 80° to 90°. Use peat and silver sand, and pot 
the cuttings singly in small pots. Pot tbe 
earliest Caladinms, and place a few more ro<o; 
in heat, also Alocasias, using clean pots or pans 
plenty of crooks, fibrous peat. Sphagnum, ad 
dry cow manure. Start a few more Gloxinia*, 
reduce those introduced last month, aDd repel 
in rich, light compost. Where last year’s sro- . 
lings have been grown through the winter, i!*f 
will now be coming in very useful, and will nil 
repay all the care that can be bestowed cp~ 
them. Feed the winter-flowering Begonias sith 
good liquid, as every joint gives a Ilona. 
Where cut flowers are inconstant demand, d* 
old B. nitida alba and B. n. rosea should lea- 
tensively gTown where they have plenty d 
moisture and head room. Shorten back oi as 
down Lucnlias, and put in cuttings, using s!-d> 
sturdy bits with a heel in preference to or** 
sappy growths. Cuttings of the beautify 
Euphorbia jacquiniseflora should be pm 1°-| I 
Young growths are difficult to strike, bctwtj 
year’s stems cut into 2-inch lengths and ins*'*'* 
up to the top bud strike as freely as Yerbee* 



Feb. 23, 1884.] 


gardening illustrated 


Flower Garden. 

General Work. — The replenishment of 
flower beds from oor reserve stock must now 
occupy attention; all spring-flowering plants 
may be transplanted with impunity according to 
convenience. Severalof the autumn-sown annuals, 
too, may be transplanted from their winter beds 
to where they are required for blooming, and to 
fill up vacancies between perennials. Holly¬ 
hocks and Foxgloves from last year's sowings 
should now be transplanted permanently in good 
rich soil; indeed, a spadeful or two of well- 
decayed manure mixed with the soil in each hole 
is an important addition. Ivy, Jasmines, Clema¬ 
tises, Honeysuckles, Oratrcguses, Magnolias, and 
similar plants on walls should be thinned or 
pruned, if necessary, and neatly trained. Form 
edgings of the variegated Queen of the Meadow, 
Arabia, Polemonium, Grasses, Daisies, Golden 
Feverfew, Euonymus radicans, Santolinas, &c. 
Some of these, such as the Golden Feverfew, are 
only fit for spring gardening when saved from 
the previous year's sowings, and to be replaced 
again in April or May from spring-sown plants 
which do not so readily run to seed during the 
summer and autumn months. Various kinds of 
flower seeds should now be sown for early bloom¬ 
ing, but the main crop of hardy annuals is best 
sown in the first week of April. 

Stocks. —Some annual Stocks should now be 
sown in small pots, dropping half-a-dozen seeds 
into each ; these ought to be stood on a slight 
hotbed, or in a house where there is a little 
warmth, being careful cot to over-water the 
seeds before vegetating, or the young plants 
when up until they have acquired some strength, 
a3 they are extremely liable to damp, the best 
preventive of which is to keep them as close to 
the glass as possible directly they appear above 
ground. If well attended to and a little more 
root-room allotted to them as they require it 
previous to planting out time, they will flower 
in advance of later sowings. 

Pansies in Pots. —If the plants have not yet 
been potted into their blooming pots, no time 
ought to be lost in doing so. They do well in a 
compost of good turfy loam, four parts ; rotten 
cow manure, one part; leaf-mould, one part; 
and a little river sand added to keep the soil 
open. The plants must be placed very near the 
glass in cold frames, the Pansy being impatient 
of the restrictions of a heated structure. Admit 
air freely, and see that the plants are kept free 
from insect pests. Green fly attacks the plants 
when in confinement, and slugs are particularly 
fond of half-opened flowers or tender young 
leaves. 

Dahlias. —If Dahlia roots have not yet been 
put into a house where there is a gentle heat, 
they ought now to be placed there, as previously 
recommended. There is plenty of time yet if a 
large stock of plants be not required, and it is 
very undesirable to force on the growth in too 
much heat. The cuttings should be taken off 
when they are 2 inches long, and each cutting 
should be placed in the centre of a 21-inch pot, 
and the pots should be set close together in a 
frame or pit over a bed where there is just a 
gentle bottom-heat. The slender cuttings form 
roots most quickly. Very stout cuttings will 
remain a long time before they do so. When 
the small plants begin to grow they must be 
removed from the bed and be placed near the 
glass, and when fairly rooted may be potted in 
5-inch pots. It is not nocessary to start pot roots 
for a month yet; if started too early the plants 
become pot-bound or drawn up weakly before 
the time for planting-out. 

Hollyhocks. —These are not so easily pro¬ 
pagated as Dahlias; the cuttings take longer to 
form roots, and are more liable to damp off 
instead of forming roots at all. When the cut- 
tings have formed roots, they should be potted 
into 5-inch pots, keeping the plants near the 
glass in a house where there is a little heat. In 
two weeks after potting the plants will hare 
rooted sufficiently, so that they may be trans¬ 
ferred to a cold frame. Keep the frame rather 
close at first, and use mats on frosty nights; 
afterwards give air freely. Such plants will 
flower well, and usually produce better spikes 
than autumn-struck cuttings. Autumn-struck 
cuttings wintered in small pots should now be 
potted into larger pots. If the plants become 
pot-bound they seldom give satisfaction. 

Carnations and Picoteks.— Those in pots 
require attention. Many of the weakly varieties 

Digitized by (jOGglC 


will dieoff during the winter if they are exposed 
to the atmosphere of our large cities without a 
glass protection ; and one advantage which the 
grower of these flowers, and also of Auriculas, 
possesses is, that they can be grown in smoky 
cities almost as well as in the free air of the 
country. The lights should be removed every 
day when the weather is fine. See that perfect 
cleanliness is maintained in the frames, remove 
all decaying foliage, and destroy green fly by 
brushing it off, dipping the leaves in soft soapy 
water, or, if practicable, the frames may be 
fumigated with Tobacco smoke. A gentle 
shower of rain will do good if the plants are 
nearly all dry, for they are not usually all dry 
at once, and it is not wise at this season to 
allow rain to fall on plants that are sufficiently 
wet. The leaves should not be allowed to remain 
wet very long ; tilt the lights and allow the air 
to circulate amongst the plants afterwards. 
Many are troubled with sparrows eating the 
hearts out of the plants. If they attack Car¬ 
nations in frames, these must be kept from them 
by stretching a net over the plants in such a 
way that it does not touch them. 

Lawns. —Where new lawns are intended to be 
made, the ground should now be cleared of all 
superfluous trees and shrubs, and the soil should 
be trenched over, turning all rough material into 
the bottom of the trenches, and making the 
whole perfectly level, smooth, and firm by means 
of rolling and raking. The seed should be sown 
in the latter half of this month. 

Fruit. 

No time must be lost in making up arrears in 
planting fruit trees where unavoidably delayed, 
always bearing in mind that tall or heavy trees 
liable to be rocked by the wind should be well 
secured to stakes. If possible, the soil should 
be dry enough to admit of being rammed firmly 
without becoming adhesive, and every tree 
shsuld be well mulched with good half-rotten 
manure. The nailing or tying of Peaches in 
most places may now be proceeded with. Pro¬ 
tecting materials will, of course, be in readiness 
for placing over the different kinds of trees as 
the flowers begin to open. Where time admits, 
stone fruit trees on old walls should be well 
washed, after they are nailed, with strong soap, 
suds, to which a few handfuls of sulphur may be 
be added with advantage. Look over new 
Strawberry beds where the ground will bear 
treading upon ; make each plant firm in its place 
and fill up all vacancies. Mvlch with manure 
as a protection from drought, and sow a little 
soot between the rows where slugs are likely to 
become troublesome. If grafting is anticipated, 
see that all the stocks are headed back, and have 
everything in readiness for use when the sap 
begins to rise, as nothing is gained by undue 
haste. The most successful orchard grafters 
place three-year-old wood on large trees, and 
work at their calling up to the beginning of 
May. Examine Figs on open walls, and if 
heavily covered with straw or fern, remove it 
piecemeal, as much damage often follows sud¬ 
den exposure of the young shoots to bright sun 
and keen morning frosts. Keep a sharp eye on 
Plums and Cherries when the buds begin to 
swell, and drop fishing-nets from the coping to 
protect them from bullfinches. 

Vegetables. 

In cold gardens the greatest mistake that one 
can commit is early sowing, as it frequently 
leads to the production of weak irregular crops 
or complete failure, for which the seedsman 
is sometimes unjustly blamed. Fill up and 
mould early Cabbages and make an extensive 
plantingon good ground for the main crop. Trans¬ 
plant autumn-sown Onions, and dress them with 
wood ashes and soot. Sow Parsnips, also Eroad 
Beans and Peas, for succession. Give the latter 
plenty of room, and sow Spinach between the 
rows. Mould and stake early kinds, and pre¬ 
pare a warm border for dwarf Marrows now 
hardening off in frames. Make another sowing 
of Carrot, Turnip, Radish, and Parsley on a warm 
border. Plant Cauliflowers under cap glasses, 
also in deep drills on south or west borders, and 
protect with short Yew branches. Fill up 
Lettuce beds, stir the soil frequently, and dress 
with wood ashes. Take care of the weakest of 
these and the Cauliflowers, as they are. invalu¬ 
able for succession. 

Potatoes. —Few crops'are of more importance 
than the Potato crop, and means should, there¬ 


*83 


fore, te taken to obtain it out-of-doors as early 
as possible, for although Potatoes grown in pits 
and frames are very acceptable, still, unless 
brought on in such places very slowly, they are 
rarely equal in quality to those grown in the 
open air. If there exists a good south wall, this 
will no doubt be occupied with fruit trees; but, 
without in any way interfering with these, a row 
of Potatoes may be grown at the foot of the wall 
that will come in, with a little care, a fortnight 
earlier than they can be grown without protec¬ 
tion, even in a sheltered border at a greater 
distance from the wall. Fork the ground over 
15 inches wide from the wall, not going so deep 
as to injure the roots of the trees, UDd if the soil 
be poor, add a little rotten manure; then open a 
trench 8 inches from the wall and 4 inches deep, 
drawing the soil forward. Take some Potatoes 
that a short time back were prepared by sprout¬ 
ing, reduce the sprouts on each tuber to two, and 
in planting cover them with the soil very care¬ 
fully, so as not to injure them ; 9 inches will be 
far enough apart, as they will be taken up as 
soon as large enough for use. Where there does 
not exist a wall that can be taken advantage of 
in this way, a few square yards of a warm, sunny 
border should be selected ; this should have the 
assistance of a temporary frame made of light 
boards, with strips of wood nailed across, bo as 
to admit of being covered at night with mats 
when the crop appears above ground, which it 
will before spring frosts are over. Crops thus 
produced will be found to be well worlh the 
labour bestowed on them, as Potatoes raised in 
this way will come in after those that have been 
grown in frames are used, and before thoBe in 
the open ground that have received no protection. 
Potatoes in frames must receive plenty of air on 
all occasions when it is not absolutely frosty, or 
they will become drawn. The lights should be 
raised at both ends, so as to let the plants have 
air equally all over. 

Forced veoetables — Sow a few Tomatoes 
at once in a moderate hotbed, or prepagate by 
cuttings from old plants saved in pots during 
the winter; plants from these cuttings fruit 
earlier than from seedliDgs. Rhubarb will soon 
be obtained abundantly from the open air, i e , 
if a forkful or two of litter be placed over the 
crowns ; but a few roots for succession may stilt 
be taken indoors. Protect Lettuces in frames 
from wet, and plant some out as convenience or 
weather may permit ; sow some seeds for suc¬ 
cession. Sow a few Capsicums in boxes, and 
pot them off siDgly, or prick them off when 
they are fit to handle. Sow some Celery seeds 
in a gentle heat. Sow some New Zealand 
Spinach in a brisk temperature for summer and 
early autumn use. Thin Carrots in frames ; keep 
them dry and shelter them from rain, but expose 
them freely in favourable weather. 


TREES AND SHRUBS. 


Early Rhododendron (R. pnecox).— 
In the nursery at Tooting, until lately ! n the 
occupation of Mr. Parker, there were, on the 7th 
of this month, several pretty little bushes of this 
early-flowering Rhododendron in the open 
ground, completely covered with fully developed 
rosy buds, which were only awaiting a gleam of 
sunshine to expand. It is a matter of some 
surprise that this handsome Bhrub, blooming as 
it does in the earliest days of spring, should not 
be more often met with than it is in private 
gardens. It is true that its flowers are not so 
large as those of many others of the species, and 
also that they are apt to be somewhat injured 
by severe frosts, but this mishap is likely to 
happen to other hardy spring flowers (e.g , Myo- 
sotis dissitiflora, which is, nevertheless, always 
to be found in a good garden), and is worth 
risking for the sake of enjoying its rosy flush of 
bloom so early in the season, when, as at pre¬ 
sent, the weather permits. Shrubs such as this 
and R. ciliatum are particularly well adapted 
for blooming in nnheated greenhouses, where 
they may receive just so much protection as is 
needed to preserve the beauty of their flowers in 
severe weather. The small size at which they 
bloom renders them all the more useful for 
plant structures of modest dimensions.—K. L. D. 

Early Rhododendrons—I think the 
following case of very early flowering of a 
Rhododendron may be interesting to some of 
your readersAt St. Anne's School, Streatbam 
Hill, clone to the gate, is a Rhododendron which 



584 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Feb. 23, 1884. 


was in fall flower on February 26, 1883, and 
was this year in flower on January 29.— George 
Harrison, StreatKavi Hill 


INDOOR PLANTS. 


Late flowering Chrysanthemums.— 

Those are amongst the most valuable of flowers 
at Christmas and the New Year, and I find the 
best for this purpose are the popular Japanese 
kinds, such as Ethel, Sarnia, and many of those 
loose petalled kinds that are so admirably 
adapted for forming floral wreaths, sprays, and 
bouquets. To get the longest season possible 
from the Chrysanthemum, those varieties that 
are naturally of a late habit of flowering should 
be kept back as late as possible, by keeping 
them out-of-doors until danger of severe frost 
compels their being taken under cover, which 
will not be until the majority of the show Chry¬ 
santhemums are in full bloom, and then they 
should be placed in a cool airy house, such as an 
orchard house, with plenty of side air on at all 
times, for if the blossoms are kept dry, there is 
not much fear of frost reaching them, and they 
will open slowly, and be beautifully clear and 
bright. It is a singular fact that only a few 
years ago these beautiful kinds of Chrysanthe¬ 
mums were but very little in request, and 
looking through some old volumes of The Florist, 
I find a writer describing some Japanese varie¬ 
ties that had been exhibited at some of the 
meetings of the Royal Horticultural Society 
as poor weedy things that would soon go out of 
cultivation. But, happily, this prophet was 
entirely in the wrong, for not only has the 
Chrysanthemum increased in popularity every 
year since that date, but the Japanese varie¬ 
ties in particular, are true gardeners' friends, for 
by extending the season when flowers that re¬ 
quire no heated structures to bring to perfec¬ 
tion are available, it helps him through the 
most trying, and dullest, and most sunless 
period ; and doubtless we shall get the Chrysan¬ 
themum season to embrace the greatest half of 
the year ere long.—J. Gboom, Gosport. 

Abutllona as out flowers —Few plants 
that I have ever tried can equal the Abutilon for 
continuous flowering, for at the axil of every 
leaf they make flowers are produced, and their 
drooping bell-shaped flowers are very useful in 
many kinds of indcor decorations, and especially 
for forming wreaths and bouquets. I’robably 
the best of all kinds in cultivation, and certainly 
the most useful I have ever tried, is the well- 
known pure white kind called Boule de Neige. 
Last autumn I potted a quantity of young 
plant in pots 12 inches in diameter, using a very 
rich compost of rotted turf and hotbed manure, 
and only ha'f filling the pots with soil to 
allow for top-dreasing, so as to keep up healthy 
vigorous growth, as I find, if kept up near the 
glass, there is no fear of their being too 
vigorous in growth. When the shoots are loosely 
tied to wires stretched about 1 foot from the 
glass, and the temperature has been kept at 
about.55°, and soot water has been freely used 
from the time they had got well hold of the 
soil, I can safely say that each plant has 
produced some hundreds of flowers, which are 
not only much larger, but the footstalks are 
much longer than they sue usually seen, thus 
increasing their value as cut flowers. The 
foliage too is very ornamental, being exceedingly 
large and of a deep green colour. It is not so 
much the rule as tire exception for a gross habit 
of growth to result in abundance of flowers, as 
foliage is far more frequently produced at the 
expense of the flowers. But such is not the 
case with the Abutilon, and I can confidently 
recommend the above plan to anyone wishing for 
really good all-thc-year-round flowers, as I can 
safely say that the Abutilon is the best I have 
yet tried, and Boule de Neige is the best variety. 
—James Groom, Gosport. 

Scented-leaved Geraniums. — While 
zonal, bicolor, and tricolor Geraniums are such 
favourites, it is to be feared that some of the 
good sorts in other classes are being overlooked. 
When one comes to making up a bouquet in 
winter, a few leaves of the sweet-scented sorts 
work in very agreeably, especially the Rose, 
Lemon, and Pennyroyal. In addition to the 
fragrance of the leaves, they are also quite 
showy when well grown. For instance, Lady 
Plymouth is a variety of the common Rose 
Geranium, with the • leaves distinctly varie- 

Digitized by CjCOglC 


gated with white, the contrast in colour being so 
decided that it could scarcely fail to attract 
attention. Then there is Apple-scented, Balm- 
scented, Citron, Nutmeg, Peppermint, Orange, 
Myrrh, and (perhaps the grandest of all in ap¬ 
pearance at least) the Fern-leaved. This is a 
splendid plant, with the leaves so finely cut that 
they appear more like a mass of green silken 
fringe than veritable leaves. The plant is a 
strong, vigorous grower, but not coarse and 
straggling like the old Rose Geranium.—II. 

Construction of a fernery.— I have 
carefully considered Mr. Hobday s interesting 
article in Gardening as to the construction of a 
fernery. There are one or two points I would 
feel much obliged if he would kindly explain, 
viz., 1. Is it desirable to use Hartley's patent 
glass for the roof, to prevent the sun’s rays 
injuring the delicate fronds, or is cathedral or 
Kew pale green glass better ? 2. Is it necessary, 
in planting on rockwork, to keep the deciduous 
Ferns distinct from the evergreen sorts, so as to 
water the one without wettiDg the other, or will 
both bear winter watering ? I find many Ferns 
grow well in pieces of Willow or Apple tree 
wood hollowed out, with a drainage hole. Cork 
baskets do not seem to agree with them.—G.P. 

11008.— Bpiphylluma.— The cause of your 
Epiphyllums not succeeding is probably that the 
soil has got into a soddened state. Examine 
the drainage, or shake them out totally, and re¬ 
pot in two parts good fibrous loam, one each of 
peat and leaf mould, with the addition of sand 
and charcoal to make the whole gritty. Give 
them little water at the roots until they are in 
active growth, damp over head on bright days; 
also give a little stimulant when in active 
growth. When the growth is completed expose 
them to the full rays of the sun, but avoid their 
roots being scorched, which can be easily accom¬ 
plished by placing the pots into one a size 
larger.—W. R. 

-Epiphyllum truncatum or bicolor, grafted 

on Cereus speciosissimus, will do better than 
if grafted on the Pereskia, and be more 
likely to stand in a greenhouse. I once had a 
plant of the bicolor variety about 4 feet high 
and 3 feet wide, and it bloomed profusely in 
December and January, but I grew it in a stove. 
The plant is well worthy of attention, as it comes 
at a season when flowers arescarce.— Gardener. 

1 1004.— Ferns falling.— You do not say 
what treatment you have given to your Ferns, 
nor do you say whether they are in the window, 
greenhouse, or stove. Probably your plants were 
taken from a warm, moist stove, and you placed 
them in a cool, airy house or window. The result 
of that treatment would be to cause the fronds 
to wither; another set of fronds should have 
been thrown up after this, more hardy than the 
first. They will succeed iu a window or green¬ 
house with care, but it is impossible to give you 
any more information until you state what the 
treatment has been.—J. D. E. 

11023.— Euoharla not flowering. — If 
the plants have been quite recently potted, they 
must not have water too freely at first, or else 
the new soil will become sodden, and the roots 
will not work into it. When in full growth, they 
are vigorous growing plants and take a consider¬ 
able supply of water. As a general rule, after 
the resting period the plants ought to be watered 
cautiously at first, and then more freely as they 
show flower.—J. D. K. 

11022. — Arum Lily (Oalla) not 
flowering.—If the plant is in a warm house, it 
ought to be watered freely, but I would not let 
it stand in water. To do these plants well, they 
require good treatment the previous season. 
Indeed, there is no better way than to plant 
them out in rows in June, as Celery is planted, 
and water them freely. They make strong 
flowering crowns that way.—J. D. E. 

11086.—Oulture'of Heaths.—These are cool green¬ 
house plants, requiring plenty ol air and to be placed In 
a light position. Pot them In sandy peat with plenty of 
drainage. They greatly dislike a close atmosphere and 
artificial heat.—J. D. E. 


Ventilating greenhouses. — I quite 

agree with what “ Chiswick ” says on this sub¬ 
ject, as I think it is very important. I will now 
state bow I have managed this winter, but only 
being an amateur, I cannot give much advice. 
My greenhouse is about 20 feet by 8 feet. It 
was a Cucumber-house; but there is a stage put 
over the bed, about 3 feet from the floor, with a 


flow and return 4-inch pipe almost close to the 
stage, with other stages and shelves fixed at 
convenient places, and the house is full of 
Geraniums, some for flowering, and I should 
think about 2000 cuttings, all looking pretty 
well ; but I have lost a few, as almost everyone 
does, and during foggy weather I found it best 
to have a little heat, and open the ventilators at 
the top and not at the bottom. The house stands 
at the top of the garden, with a gradual slope, 
so the floor, which is only the natural soil, is 
about level with the top at the back of the 
house, and 15 inches below at the front. I have 
not had a great deal of fire this winter, only just 
enough to keep them on the right side—I should 
think about two days out of seven on the 
average. I have the following kinds:—Mr. Pollock, 
Beauty of Canlderdalc, Wonderful, Master Chris¬ 
tine, Doctor J. Denny, Mrs. Upton, Vesuvius, 
Aurora, Shah, Jem Mace, Lafayette, and a few 
others, but I find that Vesuvius and Aurora are 
the strongest plants, and do not damp off so 
much as the others.— Shah. 


USES OF GREENHOUSES. 

109C9.—Something depends upon the construc¬ 
tion and internal arrangement of the homes, so 
that, in the absence of information on this 
point, very precise directions cannot be laid 
down. But, from the particulars given, I should 
recommend the houses to be arranged as fol¬ 
lows :—House No. 1 will do capitally to pre¬ 
serve almost all kinds of bedding plants through 
the winter, such as Geraniums, Fuchsias, 
Heliotropes, Verbenas, etc., so make a point 
next autumn (if you cannot put anything into 
it sooner) of filling it with «ld plants, arid 
cutting, or “ store ” pots of the above, that is, 
presuming the house to enjoy a fair amount of 
sunshine through the winter months, otherwise 
a good result cannot be expected. Maintain a 
temperature ranging from 40° to 50° on an 
average, and admit air freely whenever safe. 
This will keep the plants healthy, and at the 
same time afford the vines a thorough rest Such 
plants as Genistas, Heaths, Epacris, etc., and 
even Cinerarias and Calceolarias, which are 
easily raised in any quantity from seed, would also 
do well as long as the vines were leafless. They 
would be mostly nearly or quite past flower¬ 
ing by the time the vines broke into growth, 
and the bedding plants would be moved into 
frames, etc , to be hardened off. Daring summer, 
while the vines are in leaf, the fewer other 
plants in the house the better, though a few 
Camellias and Azaleas might find room, and 
would enjoy the shade. No. 2 is a more diffi¬ 
cult one to deal with. Facing north-east, the 
vines would naturally be very late, both in grow¬ 
ing and fruiting, and in the absence of artificial 
beat it is problematical if the Grapes would 
ever ripen properly. It is difficult to say what 
woald do in such a house, that is in the way of 
plants, except a few hardy, or nearly hardy 
Ferns. It would be a splendid place for late 
Cinerarias, etc, and for Zonale, Fuchsias, etc. 
in summer, if it were not for the vines, but the 
heavy shade would not suit them at all. No. 3 
seems to be suitable for a conservatory. It 
should therefore be furnished with Zonal, 
Geraniums, Abutilons, Begonias, Petunias, 
Fuchsias, and other sun-loving plants for the 
summer season, and with some of the above, 
with Primulas, Hyacinths, etc., for the winter ; 
in fact, it wonld suit the whole race of ordinary 
greenhouse plants. No. 4 seems to have been 
constructed on purpose to bloom a collection of 
Chrysanthemums in ; anyhow, it could not be 
more suitable for the purpose. Cuttings of these 
can be bought very cheaply now, either rooted 
or not rooted, and if grown on in pots out-of-doors 
through the summer, and brought into the house 
in October, they will furnish abundance of 
flowers until January for a very small cost. 
When these are over a good batch of Roses in 
pots might take their place, and give a fine lot 
of early flowers. Carnations in pots. Auriculas, 
and even Hyacinths and Tulips, if not wanted 
very early, would also be very suitable occu¬ 
pants for Euch a house, and would keep it gay 
nearly all the year round. Climbers of many 
kinds may, of course, be introduced into bouses 
3 and 4, bnt it is not well to plant these 
too thickly, especially if clOEe foliaged or ever¬ 
green, or the plants beneath suffer. Marechal 
Niel and other climbing Roses could be planted 
out in No. -1 house, and if keptclean and healthy 



Feb. 23, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


585 



The KliUUnny Blackberry. 


would produce an enormous quantity of bloom 
at very little cost, either of money or labour, 
beyond the first expense of planting. 

B. C. B. 


PRUlT. 


AMERICAN BLACKBERRIES. 

The small-fruit branch of the Ro*e family is 
assuredly entitled to respect when it is re¬ 
membered that the Blackberry is the blackest 
sheep in it. Unlike the Raspberry, the drupes 
cling to the receptacle, which falls off with them 
when mature, and forms the hard, disagreeable 
core when the berry is black but often only half- 
ripe The bush is, in truth, what the ancients 
called it—a Bramble, and one of our Highland 
wild cats could scarcely scratch more viciously 
than it if treated too familiarly; but with 
judicious respect and good management it will 
yield berries as large and beautiful as those on 
the Kittatinny spray 
here portrayed. It 
would seem that Na¬ 
ture had given her 
mind more to Black¬ 
berries than to Straw¬ 
berries, for, instead 
of merely five, she 
has scattered about 
150 species up and 
down the globe. To 
describe all these 
would be a thorny 
experience indeed, 
robbing the reader of 
his patience as com¬ 
pletely as he would 
be bereft of his clo¬ 
thing should he lite¬ 
rally attempt to go 
through them all. 

Therefore, I shall 
merely name the two 
species which have 
furnished our few 
really good 


V AK1KTIE8. 


They are Bubus 
villosus, or High 
Blackberry, to be 
found everywhere in 
thickets, fence rows, 

Ac., and R. canaden¬ 
sis, or lew Black¬ 
berry or Dewberry, 
an inhabitant of 
rocky and sandy soil. 

In America there are 
innumerable varie¬ 
ties, since Nature 
produces wild seed¬ 
lings on every hill- 
side, and not a few 
Beeds have been 
planted by horticul¬ 
turists in the hope 
of originating a prize 
berry. Nature ap¬ 
pears to have had the 
better fortune thus 
far, at least as far as 
we can judge, for our best kinds are chance seed¬ 
lings found growing wild. It is not so many years 
since the Blackberry was regarded as merely a 
Bramble in this country, and people were content 
with such fruit as the woods and fields furnished. 
Even yet, in Borne localities, this supply is so 
abundant as to make the cultnre of the Black¬ 
berry unprofitable. But a number of years 
since Mr. Lewis A. Seacor led to better things 
by observing on the roadside, in the town of 
New Rochelle, Westchester County, New York, 
a bush flourishing where Nature had planted it. 
This variety took kindly to civilisation, and has 
done more to introduce this fruit to the garden 
than all kinds together. Mr. Donald 6. Mitchell, 
in his breezy out-of-door book, “ My farm at 
Edgewood," gives its characteristics soadmirably 
that I am tempted to quote him: “ The New 
Rochelle or Lawton Blackberry has been des- 
pitefully spoken of by many; first, because the 
market fruit is generally bad, being plucked 
before it is fully ripened ; and next, because in 
rich clayey grounds, the Briers, unless severely 
cat back, grow into 
forest, with all the juii 


i a tangled, unapproachable 
juicer ex^aty'ei jn; wood 


But upon a soil moderately rich, a little gravelly 
and warm, protected from winds, served with 
occasional top-dressings and good hoeings, the 
Lawton bears magnificent burdens. Even then, 
if you wish to enjoy the richness of the fruit, 
you must not be too hasty to pluck it. When 
the children say, with a shout, ‘ The Blackberries 
are ripe I ’ 1 know they are black only, and I can 
wait. When the children report, ‘ The birds are 
eating the berries ! ’ I know I can wait. But 
when they say, ‘The bees are on the berries,’ I 
know they are at their ripest. Then with bas¬ 
kets we sally out; I taking the middle rank, and 
the children the outer spray of boughs. Even 
now we gather those only which drop at the 
touch ; these in a brimming saucer, with golden 
Alderney cream and a teupfon of powdered 
sugar, are Olympian nectar; they melt before 
the tongue can measure their full roundness, 
and seem to be mere bloated bubbles of forest 
honey." 


qualities. The plant is an upright and very 
vigorous grower, and exceedingly productive if 
soil and culture are suitable. Its leaves are 
long-pointed, “ finely and unevenly serrate." The 
season of fruiting is medium, continuing from 
four to six weeks if moisture is maintained, 
Both of these varieties are derived from Rabus 
villosus. 

In contrast is the next best known sort—Wil¬ 
son's Early, having many of the characteristics 
of the Dewberry, or running Blackberry, and 
therefore representing the leoond species 
named R. canadensis. Whether it is merely a 
sport from this, or a hybrid between it and the 
first-named or High Blackberry, cannot be 
accurately known, I imagine, for it also was 
found growing wild by Mr. John Wilson, of 
Burlington, N.J. Under high culture and with 
increasing age the plants become quite erect 
and stocky growers, but the ends of the canes 
are drooping. Frequently, however, they will 
trail along the ground 
and root at the tips 
like the common 
Dewberry. The fruit 
is earlier than that of 
the Kittatinny, and 
tends to ripen alto¬ 
gether in about ten 
days. These advan¬ 
tages, with its large 
size and firmness, 
make it a valuable 
market berry in New 
Jersey, where hun¬ 
dreds of acres have 
been planted, and 
where it is still very 
popular. Throughout 
the North and West 
it has been found too 
tender for cultivation 
unless protected. In 
flavour it is inferior 
to the Kittatinny or 
Sny der. For many 
years the great desi¬ 
deratum has been a 


PERFECTLY HABDY 

Blackberry, 


Notwithstanding this eloquent plea and truth¬ 
ful statement, the Lawton is decidedly on the 
wane. It is so liable to be winter-killed, even 
with the best of care, and its fruit is so unpala¬ 
table in its half-ripe condition, that it has given 
place to a more successful rival, the Kittatinny, 
discovered in the forest near the moun¬ 
tains in Warren County, N J., whose In¬ 
dian name has become a household word from 
association with this most delicious fruit. In 
finding it Mr. Wolverton has done more for the 
world than if he had opened a gold mine. Under 
good culture the fruit is very large, as will be 
seen by a glance at the accompanying engraving, 
rich, sweet, and melting when fully ripe, but 
rather sour and hard when immature. It reaches 
its best condition if allowed to ripen fully on 
the vines, but the majority of pickers use their 
hands only, and no more think of making nice 
discriminations than of questioning Nature 
according to the Baconian method; they gather 
all that are blaok or nearly so; still if this half- 
ripe fruit is allowed to stand in some cool dry 
place for about twelve hours, Kittatinny berries 
may be had possessing nearly all their luscious 


and this want has at 
last been met in part 
by the Snyder, a 
Western variety that 
seems able to endure 
without the slightest 
injury the extremes 
of temperature com¬ 
mon in the North¬ 
western States. I 
have followed its his¬ 
tory from Nebraska 
eastward, and I have 
never heard of its 
being injured by 
frost. It originated 
on Mr. Snyder’s farm, 
near La Porte, Ind., 
about 1851, and iB 
a very free, upright, 
exceedingly vigor¬ 
ous and stocky 
glower, a true child of the B. villosus. It 
has, however, one fault—it is not quite large 
enough to compete with those already described. 
On moist land, with judicious pruning, it could, 
however, be made to approach them very nearly, 
while its earlinees, hardiness, fine flavour, and 
ability to grow and yield abundantly almost 
anywhere will lead to an increasing popularity. 
For borne use, size is not so important as flavour 
and certainty of crop. It is also more nearly ripe 
when first black than any other kind that I have 
seen; its thorns are straight and therefore less 
vicious. I find that it is growing steadily in 
favour, and where the Kittatinny is winter- 
killed this hardy new variety leaves little cause 
for repining. 

As Reqards Culture, 
in most instances I think more difficulty would 
be found in making a Blackberry die than live. 
It does best on light soils and in sunny expo¬ 
sures. The partial shade and moist, heavy land, 
in which the Raspberry luxuriates, would pro¬ 
duce a rank growth of canes that winter would 
generally find uoripened and unable to endure 
the frost. Warm, well-drained, but net dry land, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 











586 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


0'kb. 23 1884 


therefore, is the best. On hard, dry giound the 
fruit often never matures, bnt becomes mere 
collections of seeds, hence the need in the pre¬ 
paration of the soil of the deep ploughing and 
the thorough loosening, if possible, of the sub¬ 
soil. Anyone who has traced Blackberry roots 
in light soils will seek to give them foraging 
room. Neither does this fruit require the fer¬ 
tility needed in most instances by the Raspberry 
It inclines to grow too rankly at best, and de¬ 
mands mellowness rather than richness of soil 
More room also should be given to the Black¬ 
berry than to the Raspberry. The rows should 
be 6 feet apart in the garden and the plants 
3 feet apart in the rows. As generally grown, 
they require support, and maybe staked as Rasp¬ 
berries. Very often cheap posts and wire trellises 
are employed, and answer excellently. Undei 
this syBtem they can be grown in a continuous 
and bushy row, with care against over-crowding. 
The ideal treatment of the Blackberry is manage¬ 
ment rather than culture. More can be done 
with the thumb and finger at the right time than 
with the most savage pruning shears after a 
year of neglect. In May and June the perennial 
roots send np vigorous shoots that grow with 
amazing rapidity until from 5 feet to 10 feet 
high. Very often this summer growth is so 
brittle and heavy with foliage, that thunder¬ 
storms break them off from the parent Btem just 
beneath the ground, and the bearing cane of the 
coming year is lost. These and the following 
considerations show the need of summer pruning. 
Tall, overgrown canes are much more liable to 
be injured by frost; they need high and expen¬ 
sive supports. Such branchless canes are by no 
means so product ye as those which are made to 
throw out low and lateral shoots. They can 
alwayB be made to do this by a timely pinch that 
takes off the terminal bud of the cane. This 
stops its upward growth, and the buds beneath 
it, which otherwise might remain dormant, are 
immediately forced to become side branches 
near the ground. It is thus seen that by early 
summer pinching the Blackberry may be com¬ 
pelled to become as low and bushy a Bhrub as 
we desire, and is made stocky and self-sup¬ 
porting at the same time. Scbibneb. 


VEGETABLES. 

DOUBLE CROPPING. 

I BEAD with interest a correspondent’s note 
under the above heading, bnt I cannot 
exactly endorse some of his views. I think it 
to be a mistake to expect two crops to grow and 
come to perfection at the same time on the same 
piece of land. It is true the young seedlings do 
not at first occupy all the ground allotted to 
them; but I am of opinion that to fill the 
interspaces with a quick-growing crop robs the 
other crop of necessary nutriment, checks 
the growth of the plants at the most critical 
period of their existence, and is of more detri¬ 
ment to the principal crop than can be made up 
by what is obtained by the secondary one. 
When making the earliest planting of Potatoes, 
I have planted rows of LettHce between the 
ranks which have been ready to come away 
before the time to earth-up the Potatoes ; but I 
have found that the Potatoes, when compared 
with those that were not so treated, were injured 
by the practice. Doubtless, many readers of 
these pages have been witness to damage done 
to growing crops by their being ohoked with 
weeds, or from their remaining too long before 
being thinned. I remember once I commenced 
to weed and thin a bed of Carrots. I did a 
part that day, but the remainder I did not (from 
press of work) finish till some considerable time 
afterwards. Those I first operated on kept a 
long way a-head of the rest all the season, both 
in size and healthy appearance. One evening 
near the end of August, some years ago, I saw 
two men on two contiguous plots of allotment 
ground sowing Turnip seed. Between three and 
four months after I was again in the same field. 
I noticed that whilst on one plot the Turnips 
were as large as one’s fist, those on the other 
were a complete failure. Upon inquiry I ascer¬ 
tained that the reason of this difference was 
that the occupier of the first plot, as soon as the 
young Beedlings were in their second leaf, 
weeded and thinned them to their proper dis¬ 
tance, whilst the other man did not do so till 
some . considerable time afterwards. With 
teepee to the planting of Beans between rows 

Digitize t ([jO glC 


of Potatoes, the reason with many for doing 
so, I believe to be that Beans pod much better 
when growing singly than when planted 
in beds (if planted under shade of trees they 
will often not pod at all). But this fault could 
be remedied by planting in single separate rows. 
Besides the extra treading the land gets when 
gathering the beans where they are scattered 
over a large space (and this is a matter of some 
consequence during wet weather where the land 
is stiff), many are of opinion that the damage 
the Beans do to the Potatoes by robbing them of 
light and nutriment quite counterbalances the 
advantage derived from the yield of Beans. 
Many years ago I made a trial to ascertain what 
damage really was done by the practice in ques¬ 
tion to the Potato crop. In four or five ranks of 
a plot of Potatoes in the open field I planted 
some Beans rather thicker than is the usual 
practice, so that I might getmore positive results. 
When the Potatoes were lifted I measured those 
from the ranks in question against an equal 
number of ranks close alongside. I found that 
there was some considerable difference, more 
than I bad anticipated. The result of the ex¬ 
periment quite convinced me that there was no 
advantage to be derived from the practice. 
Although it appears to be a delusion to suppose 
that two crops can be profitably grown at the 
same time from one piece of land, yet often¬ 
times a season can be saved by planting the 
second crop so that it can be establishing itself 
whilst the first is finishing its growth. This 
scheme answers best with the llrassica tribe, 
which seems not to have great objection to hard 
ground. Many gardeners thus plant Cabbage, 
Broccoli, Ac , between the ranks of Potatoes, and 
when the latter is fit to be lifted they dig them 
out between. This last season I saw a fine crop 
of Savoys that were planted between every al¬ 
ternate row of Onions. I once saw a very good 
crop of Potatoes that was planted between the 
rows of a standing crop of Broccoli. When the 
latter was cleared away and the former appeared 
above ground, the soil was forked between. But 
there is not much in this last-mentioned case to 
recommend it. L. C. K. 


Blanching Seakale is by many con¬ 
sidered to be a costly undertaking, requiring a 
regular set of forcing pots, fermenting material, 
Ac. Now, although these appliances are requi¬ 
site for forcing Seakale before its ordinary 
season of growth in the open ground, owners of 
gardens need not be deterred from growing this 
delicious vegetable, for it is of such easy culture, 
and the growth can be blanched very easily pro¬ 
vided good roots are available. For instance, the 
roots can be lifted and forwarded in any warm 
cellar or other dark place, or they can be covered 
to exclude the light, and a lengthened season 
thereby secured during which Seakale can be 
enjoyed, but it can be easily blanched where it 
is grown by covering the crowns with ashes, 
sand, or, in fact, any material that excludes the 
light and through which it can push its way as 
growth progresses. In this locality Seakale 
grows on the seashore, and it is blanched by 
heaping up the shingle or sea sand to the height 
of about one foot, and directly it is seen break¬ 
ing through the surface it is ready for use, and 
large old crowns of many years’ growth produce 
the finest Seakale I ever saw by these simple 
means. Although it does best by the sea¬ 
side, it may be grown to great perfection in any 
kind of soil or situation, thanks to its strong 
rooting, vigorous habit; and considering the ease 
with which it can be prepared for use, it ought 
to be grown much more generally than it is — 
James Gboom, Qosport. 

McLean’s Little Gem Pea.— 
This i9 unquestionably one that commends itself 
to owners of small gardens, as it takes but little 
room, and requires no sticks, and anyone con¬ 
versant with town gardens knows what an ex¬ 
pensive crop tall Peas are, for tall Peas must 
have tall stickB, and these are costly, and not 
always procurable, and when not in use they are 
difficult to store away. Then there is the ques¬ 
tion of space, for in gardens of limited area only 
a small space can be allotted to each crop, and 
the space occupied by Peas is usually out of 
all proportion to the returns in the way of crop. 
But now there are varieties of dwarf habit of 
growth that really produce fine crops of good 
large pods. I fed sure that they will eventually 
become the main crop for amateur gardeners. 


and Little Gem is one of the very best on the 
list.—J.G., Bants. 

Early Turnips. —This is a precarious crop, 
for as a rule they run to seed so quickly, in fact, 
if sown unreasonably early the majority of them 
run up to seed without making a bulb at all. 
This is, doubtless, owing to the sudden checks 
they get to growth, when hot days in spring 
are followed by sharp frosts at night. I have 
sown in February, and a successional crop in 
March, and the second sowing has usually done 
far best, and been readyforusequiteassoon; and 
in mild seasons like the present it is very tempt¬ 
ing to get seed sowing pushed forward while the 
soil is in such good condition, but from repeated 
trials I can confidently recommend patience; 
only sow in limited quantities at present, and 
wait until March is well in before sowing the 
main crops of any kind. We may escape the 
winter, but the spring is the try ing time.— J. G., 
Hants. 

Vegetable crops between fruit 
trees.—Excellent examples of good culture may 
be seen in market gardens, in which Rhubarb 
and other vegetables are planted beneath the 
orchard trees, but an orchard proper should, 
after the trees become established and when 
the necessity of root-pruning is not likely to 
occur, be sown down with Grass seed or laid with 
turf, which can then be annually eaten off and 
manured by sheep, frequent digging and stirring 
of the soil amongst fruit trees being often more 
njurious than beneficial. 

Edgings for a kitchen garden.— Sow 

in a small bed some Moss Curled Parsley in 
August, and about April 1 prick it out along the 
edges of the walk 1 foot apart, and two rows 
instead of one. Behind it sow a drill, or, better, 
sow in boxes Dell’s Beet, and plant it out as soon 
as it is ready. These two common but all- 
important plants give the vegetable quarters a 
dressed appearance.—G. 

11002 —Brussels Sprouts falling.—Ton should 
low the Sprouts a mouth or six weeks earlier. They 
require the whole season to form good substantial plants. 
But you ought to try and obtain a better strain of seeds. 
As you cultivated them well, they ought in some cuses to 
have formed good heads.—J. D. E. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(miscellaneous.) 

10887. — Manure for Verbenas. —The 
best substitute for stable manure is guano, 
which is in reality a natural manure greatly 
concentrated. One pound of guano is equal to 
about thirty pounds of ordinary farmyard 
manure. It must, however, be always under¬ 
stood that stable manure acts in a mechanical 
as well as a chemical manner, forming a suitable 
substance for the roots of plants to run in, and 
keeping up a supply of moisture. If yours is a 
sandy loam, the best thing you can do is to apply 
the guano at once, working it in with the soil as 
much as possible. Most of the nutritious salts 
are absorbed by the soil and are taken up in a 
more natural way than if applied later on in tbe 
liquid form. If given as a liquid manure to 
Verbenas, in soil that has not been made rich 
with stable dung for Borne time, it often stimu¬ 
lates the plants to make a growth which tho 
soil cannot maintain, the plants Hag, and receive 
a check which is fatal to successful cultivation. 
Leaf-mould or good peat would be of great 
service as well, especially where stable manure 
has not been applied for a year or two. A rich, 
sandy loam is best suited to Verbenas. If we 
want to grow Verbenas, and do not possess a 
suitable soil naturally, we must try what we can 
do artificially, and imitate nature as nearly as 
possible. We mix our mould differently to suit 
various plants in the potting house, and why not 
in the open border 1 First find what soil the 
plant likes best, then try to procureit naturally, 
if not, artificially.—J. W. 

10762 and 10902.— Ornamental Ferner¬ 
ies.—I have looked ia vain for an answer to these 
queries, but I suppose tbe reason of no reply is 
that to make ferneries satisfactory is a speciality, 
and those who are experienced in such are not 
likely to attempt instructing the public, nor 
could they do so very well, as it requires con¬ 
siderable practice to make them ornamental, or, 
I should use a more appropriate term, and say 
picturesque. It cannot be taught in writing, to 
be up to tbe taste of. the time, as it should be 
formed to look as if tbe stones, ice, are natural 


pRB. 23, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


687 


to the spot or site, not as if shot out of a cart in 
a rough heap. Some like to show numerous pin¬ 
nacles or tier upon tier of enclosures. The 
proper way is for rock and ferns or other plants 
to form a pleasing whole, or a picturesque spot. 
To make u e of a vulgar saying, “ every cobbler 
to his stall.” Your correspondents, “Broad¬ 
water ” and “ W. F. O.." had better apply to one 
or more experienced in such work who advertise 
in the gardening papers. It will be more to their 
advantage, even if only to have professional 
advice. In practice, a man accustomed to the 
work goes direct at it, and places the stones for a 
certain effect at once, while the novice is fumb¬ 
ling about, trying effects one way and another 
and then very likely produces a bit of what is 
justly termed cockney rockery, made pretty, 
perhaps, with a medley of odds and ends of 
various colours; but nothing like nature.—J. P. 

10926.— Badly managed greenhouse. 

—I do not quite understand what is meant by 
a “ half span-roof ’’ house, but whatever the 
construction may be, it is evident that there is 
too much stagnant moisture in the house from 
some cause, yet, if this is the case, why Cinerarias 
should flourish and Ferns get mildewed, is a 
mystery. As a rule. Ferns will stand and do 
well with an amount of stagnant moisture that 
would ruin most plants. Are there no ventila¬ 
tors in the apex or highest point of the roof ? 

If not, by all means construct some, and in any¬ 
thing but really mild and genial weather, use 
these in preference to the back and front open¬ 
ings, as a through draught of air is not, as a 
rule, conducive to the health of most ptants. 
Ferns in particular. If there are at present only 
solid beds, replace these in whole or in part 
by open stages, made of slate battens, about 
1 inch apart, which will afford a freer circula¬ 
tion of air round the plants. But if, after all, 
certain plants flourish better than others, why 
not grow only those that will succeed. It is a 
common thing to find houses in which, do what 
you will, one class of plants never do any good, 
while another succeeds admirably. This is very 
noticeable in large establishments, where there 
are a number of houses of different construction, 
—B. C. R. 

19999. — Beetles destroying Straw¬ 
berries.—I once knew an instance of beetles 
destroying Strawberries in the same way as 
yours have been injured ; but could hear of 
nothing to destroy the beetles except hand¬ 
picking, which is almost out of the question. A 
good dressing of soot might check or destroy 
the pest; lime might do good, and certainly 
would do no harm. Guano causes the plants, in 
some instances, to run too much to leaf. I 
would very strongly advise you to propagate 
young layers in July next in small pots. Plant 
them out in well trenched and richly manured 
soil as soon as you can after the first of August j 
w ith good management they will bear a large 
crop of fruit the following season. It is a great 
mistake to allow Strawberry beds to become too 
old ; and as yours is infested with beetles, it 
would be better to cnt them up and burn them. 
—J. D. E. 

11014.— Sparrows and Peas. — It is 

illegal to put down poisoned wheat to destroy 
sparrows. You must find out their breeding 
grounds and destroy the nests every two weeks. 
We have taken nearly 100 eggs and young birds 
at a time. Those that do escape may be caught 
in traps of wicker work ; they get in by a hole 
in the top, but cannot get out. Only the young 
birds will go in; very rarely an old one is 
caught.—J. I). E. 

_Food laid down to fowls attracts sparrows 

and I consider it impossible to get rid of them ; 
that is my experience. I bought Pea-guards, 
and do not remove them till the Peas are up 
4 inches or so, then the sparrows do not touch 
them. These Pea-guards look as if they would 
last fifty years if stored away when not in use, 
and they occupy but little room. I see them 
advertised in Gardening and sold in London. 
—V. 

11000 —Mobs Manure —This is most ex 
cellent manure for the flower or kitchen garden. 
It may be used for digging into the ground as 
soon as it is taken out of the stable. I would 
advise putting two cartloads of leaves to one of 
the Moss litter for hotbeds. Make the bed 
4 feet high in the front, and 4.j feet at the back 


the first heat is over, and for this the beds must 
be above ground.—J. D. E. 

Patent coke.— “Bedford,” “A Constant Reader,” 
and others, will find the address of the British Patent 
Coke Co. in the advertisement columns of this week’s 
(Feb. 7) Oardkniso. The advertisement, however, does 
not mention that the coke is sold broken in three sizes, 
No. 3 being the smallest. I have found No. 2 Bize the 
most suitable for small boilers.—A. Borin. 

11030.- Garden Chrysanthemums —November 
and December arc about the best months in which to 
put in cuttings in the greenhouse. As it is now late 
in the season, they would be better in a hotbed. Get the 
cuttings off with a portion of root attached, and they will 
succeed on shelves near the glass in greenhouse if a hot¬ 
bed is not available.—J. D. K. 

11089.—Peas and mice-—For several years 1 was 
pestered with mice at my I’eas, but last year, being re¬ 
commended by a friend, I soaked them the night pre¬ 
vious to planting in paraffin oil, which does not in the 
lease prevent the Peas growing, but the mice, not liking 
the oil, will not touch them.—W. J. 

11007.—Early Strawberries.-Weak manure water 
at each alternate watering would be of great advantage. 
You have done the best you can for the plants, unless 
you have a warmer house to tut them in. They ought 
always to be placed near the glass. - J. D. E. 

no-27. —Dividing Chrysanthemum roots. — 
March is a good month to divide these for out-of-door 
culture, but those that were divided so late as June last 
may be left for another year. Thin out the growths If 
they are too numerous.—J. D. £. 

11013.—Canker worm in Carrots.—We find hot 
lime the bes*! remedy for canker-worm in CarrotB; it 
should be applied immediately it is slaked at the rate 
of about three tons to the acre, and well worked into the 
soil —J. E. S. 

11011 .— Dielytra spectabllls.—You cannot protect 
this plant effectually other than by placing a hand glass 
over it. Last year the exceptionally cold weather in 
March waa the cause of much injury to such plants.— 
J. D. E. 

11019. — Flowers In succession. — To succeed 
Ranunculus and Anemones there are few better flowers 
than Stocks and Asters. Any other dwarf annuals could 
be planted.—J. D E. 

11021.—Straw manure, well rotted especially, is an 
excellent dressing for Grass land ; It should be applied 
now, and well spread.—J. E S. 

11016.— Shrubs In the shade. — Few, if any, 
flowering shrubs will thrive in the shade. Why not try 
Lilies of the Valley ?—J. E. S. 


Erin _it la a kind of fungus. Soap and water Is the 
best remedy. Keep the plant in robust growth, and they 

will be less liable to be affected.- Bner -We cannot 

say unless some of the large Rose growers will supply 
you. 

Constant Reader.- Mr. Ware, Hale Farm Nurseries, 
Tottenham; Mr. Barr, 12, Klug S.reet, Covent Garden, 
or any good hardy plant nuisery. 

Names of Plants.— J- Broicn.—l, Selaginella cceala 
arborea ; 2, Coccoloba platycladon ; 8, Geanera oblongata ; 
4 Alonsoa incisa.- St Hildas -—C*nuot name, speci¬ 
mens insufficient.- T. L- 1, Pteris quadriaurita ; 2, 

Adiantum formosum ; 3, Davallia canariensis.—— U. A. 
Ricks. — Santolina incana — 11. 77i —The shrub is 

Enonymus japonicusanreo-maculatus ; other is a species 
of Malva — Eta.—l, Selaginella viticutoaa; 2, Stenoch- 
leuna scandens; 3, species of Blechnum; 4, Adiantum 

formosum.- Exon —3-nd specimen when in tlowtr. 

- Constant Reader.— I, Priuula denticulatn; 2, Spar- 

mannia afneana: 3, Goldfuasla lsophylla.- A. Keen.— 

2 Guaphalium Innatum ; please send better specimen of 

others- S. A. Brenan. —Apparently Cistus satrif-dlas 

The Eupatorium-like plant la apparently an Ageratuni 

Mesembryanthemum, name next week.- Uncle Jeff. 

—1, Dalechampit Roezliana ; 2, Centropogon Lucyanus ; 
3, Begonia glaucoplijlla aplendens; 4, Clerodendron 
Thomson!. 

QUERIES 


It is necessary to a< 



ung when 


despair of getting anything to flower In December and 
January in this part (Btoke Newington), w ith my limited 
heat.—Y outhful Amateur. 

11098 —Early Seakale.—When I was a boy I re¬ 
member having Seakale In November, and we had no 
appliances for foicing beyond the common Seakale pot 
heaped round with stable manure. Having now a gar¬ 
den of my own, I have endeavoured to get Seakale as 
early as we had it then, but do not know how it can be 
done, seeing that the Seakale plants had not shed their 
leaves by that time. 1 shall therefore be much obliged 
if someone will tell me how ScaKale may be produced in 
November or even December—whether by cutting off 
the leaf at some early period and leaving the stalk to 
drop off, or by some other method ?—M. K. 

11099.—Cut flowers for profit.—I ain thinking of 
growing Camellias, &c., to supply cut flowers for market, 
and shall be gl%d to know the names of tw o or three or 
the most profitable kinds, aud the value of the blooms. 
Are Ghent and mollis Azaleas lit for the same purpose, 
and what is the value of the flowers? I should also 
like to know their treatment. Are Begonias 
(tuberous), Gloxinias, and Fuchsias of any value ? If so, 

I Bhould be glad of a list of hardy plants for the same 
purpose. All information on this subject will much 
oblige —A Beginner. 

moo.—Marechal Niel Rose.—I have four Mare- 
chal Niel Roses in pots In my greenhouse, with about 
a dozen other varieties, but the Marechals do not do 
well; ihe young leaves hang dowm in a very limp way; 
the plants teem to lack vigor; there is no signs 11 
mildew ; the ventilation is good ; heat duriug day from 
60 0 to 60°, during the bight about 45”. Other Rosea 
in house show tine bloom and look healthy. Is this 
caused by too much watering and syringing? Perhaps 
someone will give me a little advice.—B reckley. 

11101.—Mulching fruit trees.—During a visit to 
east Sussex I noticed that in several orchards the old 
trees were surrounded at the base to a distance of about 
6 feet with old hopbines. I was informed by one person 
that he tried it on the recommendation ol a gardener, 
who stated that it invigorated old trees. Can ai.y 
reader tell me whether there is anythiug in this? It 
does not appear to me an efficient substitute in any way 
for trenching round trees of long standing, whoso toots 
have penetrated poor soil.— Barham House. 

11102 —Narcissus tenulfolius not flowering.— 

I potted the bulbs of this last August In soil consisting 
of two parts loam, one peat, one rotten cow dung, and 
one sand. I plunged the pots in ashes in a cold frame. 

I give air all the day and shut up at night. In November 
I placed them in the greenhouse near the glass ; theie 
they still remain. 1 water them every three or tour 
days Will some reader kindly tell me the reason why 
they do not bloom?—W. R. 

11108.—Flowers for stand —I have an ornamen¬ 
tal flower stand with a t ! n case fitted in It nearly a yard 
long in which to placo flowers, and shall be glad to knew 
what will be the best plants to put in at this season to 
flower a little later on, with directions as to soil, Ac.? 1 
have seen the same boxes have a succession of spring and 
summer flowers. I am inexperienced, but wish to cul¬ 
tivate flowers. Also, can I get Arum Lilies now to 
flower shortly,—A. T. 

11104 —Camellia buds falling off —Can anyone 
tell me the reason of my Camellia buds turning brown 
and falling off? The tree is one of the old double white, 
clean and healthy, grows freely, and seta a number of 
budB. It is plauteu out in a conservatory facing west, 
trained on wire so as not to touch the wall, which Is the 
back of a chimney, the heat of which is about 66 g to 6i»°. 
The tree has been supplied with liquid manure until 
this last week.—A Reader. 

11106 — Fly* on Tomatoes —Will someone kindly 
tell me the name of some insect which develops into 
little white winged flies? They were first bred with me 
upou some Tomato cuttings kept over the winter. In 
apite of frequent smokings, which cost a deal more than 
the value of the fruit, they succeeded in almost destroy¬ 
ing the crop, what little fruit was left being render* d 
disgusting by them. The fly is pure white, flying iu the 
sun like a swarm of midgets.—E ta. 

11106.— Heating greenhouse.— My house is 20 feet 
by 12 feet, and is heated by a small saddle boiler. 
18 inches by 12 Inches by 11 inches. Along the front cf 
the house is a bed for Cucumbers 3 feet wide, with a 
4-inch flow and return pipe for bottom-heat, and a flow 
and return of the same size for top heat, but 1 cannct 

B et enough bottom or top heat. Will someone please say 
' the boiler is too Bmall or the piping not euough ?— 
T. 8. D. 

11107.—Lichens on houses.-My house (in North¬ 
umberland) is covered with red Staffordshire tiles, which 
I am verv anxious to see covered with the beautiful 
coloured Lichens that one sees growing over the red- 
tiled roofs in the south and west of England. Will any 
correspondent tell me how it would be possible to trans¬ 
plant the Lichen, and would it flourish at all in this 
part of England ?—A. M. O. 

11108. -Flowers for cottage garden —Having 
taken a cottage in the country, ana not knowing any tbiDg 
about flowers, will someone kindly advise me what to 
plant In my garden, so that 1 may have some flowers 
this summer? 1 have no greenhouse; therefore, 1 wish 
to know what seeds are the best to sow, and will they do 
sown in the open at once ? Any information will oblige. 
— COTTAGER. 

11109. — Stopping or pinching. — In growing 
Fuchsias and Geraniums for exhibition, the advice we 
cet is to keep stopping or pinching them until withiu 
six weeks of the show. I would like to know what is 
meant by stopping or pinching. Are we to merely take 
the flower on, or are we to take the centre out of the 
shoots?— Nisbit. 

11110.—Culture of Sunflowers.—What amount of 
Sunflower seed would be required to sow one third of an 


Rules for Correspondents.— AW communwa. 

Hons for insertion should tw clearly and concisely 
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. 

Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER fhe ™ 7 ™ 
and address qt the sender ^ required, in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in tAe paper. Arwwm 
should always bear the number and title Of 
answered, ft hen more than one query usent 
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
da u qf publication, it is not possible to i men «txme* < 
communications the week they are received. (Queries 
answered should be sent to us again. 

Naming plants .—Four plants, fruits, or flowers only 
nan be namSd at one time, and this only when good 
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name 
varieties of florists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias, Oeramums, 

Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
medalist who has the means of companion at band. Any 

communication respecting plants or flowers sent to name 

should always accompany the parcel. 

11097.—Plante to bloom at Christmas. — l feel 
much Indebted to “ B. C. B." hr Ml hnsmeto my 
question, and should feel obliged If he would further tell 
me whether I had better throw away the beautiful 
EnlDhyllum I now have when done blooming, or what X 
should do with it 1 would rather destroy It than waste 
time over attempting impossibilities. Could I, when the 

buds are formed bring it into ® 1 icre.’ when should it be sown, will Sunflowers trow 

chance of its buds opening! I have dUcoi| j,y t j, e >ea , si, ,1 do they require any peculiar cultivation 


insect on the Kplphyllum, iu shape like a email wood¬ 
louse. What is this 1 Is it likely to Bpread to the other 
plants! What could I grow in heat named ( 40 °) to 
bloom at Christmas ? The few things I have seen 
named in Gardknino I cannot get, vlx., Oxalis versi¬ 
color, Iris stylosa, and Crocus Imperati. I am nearly in 


-Eva. 

Hill.—Sowing seeds of Honesty.-Can any 
reader give me Information as to the culture cf the 
common Honesty, the time of sowing, also if it can be 
flowered in winter ?—Derby. 



588 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Feb. 23, 1884. 


11112 .— Disbudding Rosea.—I have a Marshal 
N’iel Bobo against a south-west wall, that was moved last 
autumn twelvemonths. It bore only one flower last 
summer, but now has several buds, which, of course, 
would be spoiled by frost. Ought the buds to be cut off 
at once ? will it then be more likely to bloom at the 
proper season?- M. A. C. 

11113. — Bigmonla not flowering.— I shall be 
obliged if someone will tell me the best treatment for 
Bignonia unguis, and say whether It is a stove or green¬ 
house plant. It appears now to be somewhat at rest. 
So far I have not been able to get more than two or 
three blooms on it daring the year, and that has been 
about May.—H. C. T. 

11114.—Soli for' perennials.— How can I best im¬ 
prove the soil in a flower garden iu which perennials are 
to be grown? It is a Btlff clay, and as I am just about to 
move my plants into it from the garden I am leaving, 
In which the soil Is a light free loam, I fear for their 
health.—!'. L. 

11115.—Coltsfoot In shrubberies.—Can any 
reader tell me an effective way of getting rid of 
sweet-Bcented Coltsfoot, which has taken possession of 
my shrubberies and become a dreadful nuisance, killing 
in the course of time all tho shrubs it comes in contact 
with ?— Pbrplbxkd. 

illlfl.—Renovating old Camellias.—I have two 
Camellias about 5 feet high, but they are very old. 
straggly, and weak. Would it strengthen them and 
make them better plants if I were to cut them back and 
repot them? The buds drop off just before opening. 
—W. W. 

11117. — Nicoti&na atropurpurea. — Can any 
reader kindly give me information as to the culture of 
Niootiana atropurpurea grandiflora, particularly re¬ 
specting the raising of the seed ? The plant is classed in 
my tradesman’s catalogue as a hardy annua).—Mrs. 
Brown. 

11118 —Habrothamnus not flowering.—I have 
had a plant of Habrothamnus for more than a year, but it 
hamot flowered. 1 shall be thankful to know the proper 
treatment for it, and whether stopping it would prevent 
it from flowering ?—Erin. 

11119.—Treatment of Phcenocomaa —I should 
be obliged if anyone who grows Phoenocoma prolifera 
Bsrnesl will tell me the treatment of this plant. 1 have 
purchased n specimen, and I am told by growers that It 
is difficult to manage.—D. W. 

11120 .—Plants for shaded greenhouse—I have 
a greenhouse fixed between two high wails where little 
or no sun reaches. Can anyone tell me what climbers 
and Ferns will grow beat without artificial heat?— 
P. A. B. 

11121.—Mistletoe berries.—I am desirous to 
attempt cultivating the Mistletoe, as described in gar¬ 
dening a few weeks ago, but do not know where to ob¬ 
tain ripe berries for the purpose ; can any reader inform 
me ?—E. K. B. 

111 * 22 .—Seeds for juveniles.—Will someone give 
me a list of seeds suitable for pot culture, to distribute 
among school children, to be at their best at the latter 
end of July ?— STUDENT. 

11123.—Worms in lawns.—What had I best do with 
my lawn laid down last year ? Nearly all the Grass has 
gone, and the ground is covered with worms in all stages 
of development.—B. V. 

11124.—Erica hyemalis.— I am desirous of knowing 
how to treat this plant when it has ceased flowering for 
the season. Should it be placed in a greenhouse (mode¬ 
rately heated) and watered occasionally ?—S. S. A. 

11125.—Pish as manure.—Is the refuse from a 
fishmonger’s good manure for vine borders, or generally 
for a garden ; also what soil and treatment is the best 
for Maiden hair Ferns?—N ero. 

11126.—Primulas and Cyclamens.—How should 
Primulas and Cyclamens be treated after flowering?— 
Ignoramus. 

11127 .—Dahlias and Salvias from seed.—Will 
any reader kindly give directions for raising single 
Dahlias and Salvia patens from seed?—Mrs. Brown. 

11128.—Grafting Rhododendrons.—When is the 
right Lime of the year to graft Rhododendrons, Accra, 
<fcc. ?—G. W. H. 

11129. — Sempervlvum tabuleeforme from 
seed.—Will someone tell me how to sow seed and treat 
young plants of the above ?—A Constant Subscriber. 

11180 .—Melons in frames.—Will anyone give me 
plain directions how to grow Melons in a frame? Cu¬ 
cumbers are quite successful.—J. A. C. 

11181.—Gas-light and plants —Will the glare of 
gas do any harm to plants inside a greenhouse ? The 
smell cannot get in.—N ovice. 


BEES. 


SEASONABLE NOTES. 

Brood raising.— From now till the end of 
March is a very critical time in the apiary. The 
bees are aroused to activity on mild days by 
the appearance of the early spring flowers. The 
store of honey and pollen obtained from them, 
although limited, is sufficient to stimulate the 
bees to raise brood. The brood at first occupies 
a small circle in the centre of the cluster ; this 
circle is gradually enlarged, and brood circles 
are commenced on the adjoining combs. Should 
cold weather return at this stage, the bees will 
again condense to a small compass, and leave 
much of the brood uncovered, which will, in 
consequence, perish. This being so, it is not 
wise for the present to encourage the activity of 
the bees. By shading the hives, they should be 
kept aa quiet as possible. When, however, it is 

Digitized by GOOgk 


found that breeding has actually commenced in 
a hire somewhat low in the Btore department, 
stimulative feeding should commence and be 
carried on till there is a sufficient natural supply 
of food, for when a colony rearing brood finds 
tbat stores are nearly exhausted, the queen dis¬ 
continues, laying and thebees destroy the eggsand 
larvse. Stimulative food should be made in the 
proportion of three pounds of sugar to two pints 
of water, boiled together for a few minutes, and 
a tablespoonful of vinegar added. It should be 
given slowly, beginning with about three ounces, 
and gradually increasing to about half-a-pound 
per day, according to the increase of the colony. 
This applies to stocks that are short of natural 
provision. Colonies having a good store of sealed 
food will not need stimulative feeding. In their 
case it will be sufficient to slice off the caps of 
some of the honey cell. The bees will remove the 
honey from the uncapped cells and store it in 
empty ones, and, with the addition of artifi¬ 
cial pollen, brood raising (weather being favour¬ 
able) will be carried on. 

Bee-feedkrs —Stimulative food is supplied 
to the bees by means of a feeder, of which 
there are several kinds. A verygoodone consists 
of a glass jar with ground edge, covered with a 
tin cap, which is inverted on a wooden block 
prepared to receive it. The tin top is pierced on 
one side only, with five holes. The wooden block 
contains a diaphragm, one-half of which is com¬ 
posed of perforated zinc, and the other half of 
plain zinc. When the pierced side of thetin topis 
overthe perforated side of the zinc diaphragm, the 
bees have access to all the holes, but by simply 
turningthe bottle round, the supply of food may 
be reduced or cut off altogether, the index pin 
attached to the tin cap showing at a glance bow 
many holes the bees have access to. For rapid 
feeding a simple and good way is to bore a hole, 
about two inches in diameter, in a small square 
block of wood about an inch and a-half thick 
Fix a piece of perforated zinc over the hole, 
place the block of wood, with the perforated 
zinc at the bottom, over the hole in the top of 
the hive. Put the feeding syrup into a common 
wide-mouthed pickle bottle, covering the mouth 
with a piece of muslin doubled, or cheesecloth, 
and insert the mouth of the bottle in the block of 
wood, allowing it to rest on the perforated zinc 

Artificial pollen. —When natural pollen 
is not to be obtained in sufficient quantities for 
brood raising, the bees will eagerly collect pea 
flour if provided for them, which is found to 
answer the same purpose. A little sprinkled into 
the Crocus flowerB will give the bees a taste for it, 
when it may be placed near the hives in a tray, 
or old skep, in a sunny corner. If a little chaff 
or a few shavings be sprinkled on the pea flour 
so as to partly cover it, it gives the bees a foot¬ 
hold, and prevents them being smothered in it. 
Natural pollen is the fertilising dust of flowers, 
which is gathered by the bees, and transformed 
by tbem into food upon wbioh to feed the 
iarvEB. When numbers of bees are observed 
returning to the hive with it in little coloured 
loads attached to their bind legs, pea flour need 
not be supplied. Water is used with the pollen 
in feeding the brood, so that when bees aie ob¬ 
served seeking water in the early spring, it may 
be concluded that breeding has commenced in 
the hive. They often venture out for water during 
inclement weather, become chilled, and are 
unable to return to the hive. It is, therefore, well 
to provide water close at hand, with some Bmall 
pieces of wood or cork floating in it, on which 
the bees may alight, so prevent drowning. It 
is advantageous to have large plantations of 
early honey and pollen-yielding flowers in the 
neighbourhood of the apiary (such as yellow 
Wallflower, Arabis, LimnantheB, Crocus), that 
the bees may have something wherewith to fill 
their honey bags whenever a mild day calls 
them out, and when as yet there is nothing to 
be obtained in the fields. 8. 8. 6. 

Boxnorth. 


Ligurian bees.— Will •* S. 8. O." kindly 
say what advantages Ligurian bees bare over 
blacks, and also when would be the proper time 
to introduce a Ligurian queen into a bar 
frame Live of the blacks ?— Old Sambo. [The 
chief merits of Ligurian bees, in contrast with 
black bees, are their queens being more prolific, 
their swarming earlier, Working earlier and 
later in the day, being more courageous in self- 
dofence, and gathering honey from plants which 


are not frequented by black bees. Upon these 
points there iB, however, some difference of 
opinion among advanced bee keepers, some pre¬ 
ferring the English black bee, beiDg of opinion 
that although Ligurians may gather more honey, 
yet they consume more in the rearing of much 
useless brood, and consequently do not store 
more surplus honey than the blacks. Probably, 
however, the introduction of Ligurians has im¬ 
proved our race of black bees. A Ligurian queen 
may be introduced to a colony of blacks during 
spring, summer, or autumn. At the end of the 
honey harvest is a very good time, as the risk of 
successful introduction is considerably less when 
there is abundance of brood and young bees in 
the hive.—8. S. G.] 


POULTRY. 


Oroes-tored poultry.— Some time since, 
seeing so mnch written in Gardening concern¬ 
ing the merits of various crosses, I determined 
to try a few practical experiments for myself, 
the results of which, as given below, although 
not up to my expectations, yet tend to show that 
much may be done by careful selection of 
breeds. One poultry-keeper strongly advocated 
a cross between Hamburghs and Minorcas. I 
therefore mated some black Minorca hens with 
a silver spangled Hamburgh cock. Now I was 
perfectly aware that both these kinds were es¬ 
sentially laying kinds and but indifferent table 
birds. Therefore I was not at all surprised that 
the produce proved good layers, but poor table- 
fowl. The pullets layed on an average, for the 
first twelve months after commencing to lay, 
130 eggs each. This I consider good, taking the 
yeai right through. Although I did not keep 
the produce of each hen separately, yet I feel 
certain that some of them laid individually 
more than 200 eggs apiece, but of course the 
average is the only fair way of reckoning, as there 
are sure to be some black sheep in every 
flock. The appeaiance of the birds was 
rather good, but, like in all crosses, varied 
very much, for while some were perfectly 
black throughout, most of them had grey 
hackless wings and tails, the reft being more 
or less black. They nearly all had the rose-combs 
of the Hamburgh. They were sprightly and 
graceful in form, and proved excellent foragers 
after insects and grubs in the field in which I 
kept them. Taken altogether I did not consider 
them A bad speculation. The eggs laid by them 
were of fair size, but very few were of a brown 
colour, which I think is a very desirable point, 
not only for one’s own table, but when sent to 
market, as most buyers give them the preference. 
But I was not satisfied with them when killed 
and placed on the table; they were small, and 
the chickens did not seem to lay on flesh quickly, 
but still what there was of it was white and firm 
and of excellent flavour. I next tried a cross 
between Malay and Hondan, a cock of the for¬ 
mer to hens of the latter, and am still keeping 
this kind with very good results, both as layers 
and table fowl, often killing young cockerels at 
six months old weighing six or seven pounds, 
with small bone and flesh firm and of good 
grain. There is no doubt but that the Malay 
cross greatly improves the quality of the flesh, 
aud if large parents be chosen I do not know a 
better cross for producing birds for the table. I 
cannot, however, say they make such good 
layers as the Hamburgh-Minorca cross, although 
they have proved themselves anything but in¬ 
different in that respect, and moreover their eggs 
are for the most part large and of the desirable 
brown colour. I believe it is the correct thing 
not to breed from fowls already crossed, but my 
plan is to breed from such, every year intro¬ 
ducing a few pure bred cockerels of both sorts. 
I will not say it is so good, but it saves a deal of 
bother, and the pure bred cockerels help to keep 
the cross very nearly as good both in appearance 
aid stamina as the original birds. I may men¬ 
tion that I keep about seventy fowls, so require 
ten or a dozen male birds, and every autumn ob¬ 
tain from breeders three or fonr pure bred birds 
of large size, which although pure are not good 
enough for exhibition, beiDg faulty in some 
fancy point; but as long as they are large, vigo¬ 
rous birds, they answer my purpose well, and are 
to be bought for little over killing price. I 
should advise anyone having a field or orchard 
to try the Malay-Houdan cross as being a good 
all-round fowl.— Cross-bred. 



GABDENING ILLUSTBATED. 


Vol. V. MARCH 1, 1884 No. 2C0. 


HARDY FLOWER GARDENING IN 
SCOTLAND. 

Whkk I gave my experience of hardy (lower 
growing in Scotland, I meant to stimulate 
others to begin flower culture and assist be¬ 
ginners here, many of whom, unknown to me, 
had come to see my garden and ask how to 
proceed so as to get like good results. I have 
been amply repaid by the kindly way in which 
Mr. Wolley Dod has commented npon, while 
supplementing, my remarks on various flowers, 
while the readers of Gardening have received 
much benefit, I trust, from the comparison of ex¬ 
perience furnished them as to herbaceous plants, 
especially from the fuller knowledge and riper 
experience on a large scale which Mr. Dod 
brings to the subject. For myself, I thank him 
for the kindness of his expressions upon my 
maiden effort in writing on flowers; and for 
many florists here, I can say that his remarks 
will be very carefully laid to heart and practised 
in several gardens this season, and we will 
eagerly look for a continuation of the subject 
from so genial and practical an authority. And 
yet we wonder also at some plants yielding 
indifferent results in Cheshire, as we always 
believed it to be a finer locality for flowers than 
our more northern 

Renfrewshire. 

We seem better off here on the whole, as the 
weather seems not so different in the two 
counties, and we have all the advantages of 
excellent Boil, which is quite half the battle in 
all flower growing. Of course, a good frost is 
better for all hardy plants than a frost by 
night and a thaw by day kind of weather. 
Therein, I think, liesmy failure to grow Auriculas. 
My nearness to the river causes the humid air 
along the banks to freeze on the leaves of the 
Auricula even from a very slight frost at night, 
which again easily melts by day with the least 
sun, thus causing the foliage to damp off, 
weakening the plant, and so making it pine 
away. These flowers do well with my neigh¬ 
bours further removed from the river (and at 
the sea coast they are robust growers), so all I 
can do is to keep a few select sorts in pots in 
the cold frame, or out of pots, as with alpines, 
and under glass all do well. The Ourisia 
occoinea is a singular instance of fickle flower¬ 
ing in Cheshire, as here it grows in light soil, 
but is allowed to overrun the boxwood on to the 
walk, whereas, at the coast, the soil is stiff and 
wettish clay, and yet it flowers under both condi¬ 
tions, and with a bell glass its blooms are doubly 
profuse. 

With regard to the Orchis macnlata, Mr. 
Campbell, of Dunoon, the veteran herbaceous 
grower from whom I received it, told me that 
it could be lifted nearly every year after flower¬ 
ing and ripening, and replanted with lots of 
old, very old manure—mark, as black as peat and 
as fine as rich leaf-monld. He said the big 
spikes would lessen in size if not well fed, and 
certainly the blooms were immense and quite a 
show to see in July in his garden. Singular 
to say, the late Captain Gardner, of Islay, spoke 
to me (years before these Orchis were in 
fashion) as to their beauty. While a boy at 
sea fifty years before, and thinking fondly of 
“ Islay, Green Islay,” many a time this Orchis 
was a feature of bis dreams of home. So one 
J uly he and I wandered over the mosses of Islay 
behind the “ big Strand,” and got a dozen beau¬ 
tiful specimens for his garden, which he culti¬ 
vated with great taste We did look for a pure 
white variety, suchas Mr. Dod so much desiderates, 
of O. foliosa, but we only got cream whites, but 
with some friends to help, we hope to find a 
pure white yet. I fear from what Mr. Dod says 
as to Lilium Thompsonianum, that I have no 
chance of winning the tempting prize he offers 
for that feat, though the leaves of my plant 
look very healthy even as I write. Yet, after 
the success I have had (and I had L. Krameri 
in pod once just before frost set in, though the 
bulb failed the following year), who knows but 
Thompsonianum may bloom with the aid of a 
warm summer ? 

We will bear in mind the complete directions 
he gives as to Senecio pulcher; the plant is 


expensive at present, but when we know how 
easily it can be propagated, its culture will soon 
extend. As to Anemone vitifolia, I did mean 
Honorine Jobert, one of the grandest autumn 
plants I know. The mistake of calling it viti¬ 
folia is common, I Bee, to several catalogues. 
Evidently the nurserymen confound the two, 
both being white, and vitifolia being half hardy, 
is so rare, that no comparison can be made. The 
Primulas so courteously offered from Mr. Dod’s 
famous garden, I will indeed value and seek to 
grow to the best of my possibilities. I saw F. 
nivalis doing well here in a friend’s garden, but 
my effort! to grow it failed, as it followed its 
half brother the Auricula, and damped off at 
each trial. P. amcena grows finely outside, and 
the beautiful Polyanthus family do very well. 
I have Polyanthus George Fourth, but do not 
feel confident of it, as from the estimation 
some writers like Mr. Brockbank have of it, I 
fear if my plant is indeed of the royal family 
after all. This spring I will send a bloom to 
anybody that can settle the identity of it with 
pleasure. We have a seedling called Sir Walter 
Scott, very much superior, which I will also send 
gladly, just to see if noble old “ Waverley ” is 
not the kingliest after all. To Bee it in the 
open ground and in pots in a frame in Mr. 
James Litster's garden at Kirn, is a treat, and 
he has grown it for years, when it was lost else¬ 
where, and has never seen a better Polyanthus 
in all his experience. He grows it to great 
perfection, along with many fine old-fashioned 
flowers, especially one ivory white wood Hya¬ 
cinth with large bells, quite as fine as any 
spring flower we have, and a worthy companion 
to Narcissus Horsfeldi and Scilla peruviana. 

If the white Phlox, referred to by Mr. Dodd 
as Lady Napier, is finer than Miss Robertson, 
we will carefully grow it, as Phloxes here are 
quite a speciality. There is one, also a dwarf 
grower, which was found in a chance garden and 
unnamed, but which goes under the title of 
Sweet’s white Phlox; but though far stronger 
in habit than any other early sort, the white is 
suffused in some seasons with a flush of pink. 
I found a white Monarda in Mr. Johnstone’s at 
Cumbcrnanld, but fear if it is of the true 
didyma order, but with fat culture we will see 
what is in it. I tried Cypripedium pubescens 
from a local nursery, but it never showed at all; 
so as to its hardiness 1 can say nothing. I had 
a fine specimen of C. Calceolus from Messrs. 
Smith, of Worcester, which did well last year, 
and I will anxiously look for it this season, and 
take Mr. Dod’s hint as to “growing it amongst 
rocks.” There is a very rare single yellow 
Paeony which I got from Mr. Campbell, and it 
is rather a delicate contrast to its showy kindred 
in deep red and double white. It is said to be 
in Mr. Ware's nursery, but is not advertised 
anywhere. 

The Morina longifolia should do well in my 
deep Boil, but it has failed a dozen times. Even 
young seedlings fade slowly off. It does well 
around mein similar sandy soil, and ripens seed 
too, so I blame the dampness off the river for 
my want of success with it. I have also tried 
Amaryllis belladonna, but it will not flower, so 
it must go off to a friendly greenhouse, as it 
evidently is unhappy here, “out in the cold 
ground,” and to retain a plant under such 
depressing conditions and see it miserable is 
what no florist can enjoy. There is a stately 
subject 7 feet high, quite a free grower here, 
with leaves a yard long, with a stem like a pole, 
and a great spike of small yellow flowers; in 
fact, a giant for the back border. It was brought 
from Belgium by Mr. Andrew Robertson, along 
with many other enrioos plants which still 
grow vigorously in his old garden. The name 
he got with it was Cineraria macrophylla, but I 
understand it is known in the south as a 
Ligularia. 

Fob Large Gardens. 

Where a stately plant like the foregoing can 
be grown and appreciated, an even bolder 
subject, the Heracleum giganteum, or Cow 
Parsnip, should be obtained, as it looks like a 
palm with its broad serrated foliage, rising 
10 feet high nearly, and 5 feet through. I saw 


it years ago in Princes Street Gardens, Edin¬ 
burgh, where it quite harmonized with its 
snrroundings, and did not seem to mind the 
smoke “ o’ auld Reekie.” I got some seedlings 
last year very kindly sent me, which I have 
planted in favourable positions by the river¬ 
side, and they are all thriving, and promise this 
year to rise to their reputation. They are 
biennials of course, and need deep soil, and 
lots of moisture and feeding. For back borders, 
the Foxgloves are very effective, especially N. 
Campbells' hybrid, a large white with brown 
spots, which do well in any situation, and last 
long in flower; of course, they are biennials 
also, but seed themselves with me. The Ver- 
bascums mix well with the Foxgloves, and 
give a character to a strong back border with 
their long stout spikes. The yellow and cream 
white I have, and the dwarf one, purpurcum, 
which flowers for weeks. For three years I 
have tried to flower Iris Ksempferi, but without 
success, ODly they are robust, and with a hot 
season likely enough to succeed. Another 
biennial which I never see noticed in Garden¬ 
ing. and which should be in every border where 
velvety crimson flowers are admired, is 
Murray’s double dark Sweet William, and as it 
does not seed it must be propagated by cut¬ 
tings, which are produced in abundance, and 
strike even in the open ground. It is very 
dwarf, and for ribbon borders it is a rare 
beauty on account of its free flowers of great 
richness in colour. 

Paisley. 

has the credit of raising it, as well as other good 
things; intact, Paisley’s reputation isblown(with 
blossoms) over all the floral world. Our vener¬ 
able clergyman informs me that when the rage 
for Carnations, Pinks. Pansies, and other florists 
flowers was at its height, forty years ago, the 
nurserymen of London always visited Paisley 
to obtain the latest novelties from the keen 
witted artisans, who then, as now, were enthu¬ 
siastic in flower growing. In fact, Paisley never 
seems to have gone in for the worship of the 
“golden calf" like other towns, but has been 
full of ideas in art, science, and literature. 
Poets were as numerous as its streets, and its 
naturalists and botanists were always quite a 
circle. Lately the generosity of the families of 
Coates and Clarke have been most widely heard 
about, but still around the grey old town flowers 
are keenly cultivated by rich and poor, and 
visitors from the south who wish to see flori¬ 
culture at its best in Scotland must go to 
Paisley. A farmer friend of mine here tells me 
that forty years ago, when Mr. Murray was 
curator of Glasgow Botanic Gardens, every new 
flower in the country was sent to him usually 
and proved by careful culture as to its capa¬ 
bilities. One of these was Pentstemon Mur- 
rayanum, the finest thing of the kind my friend 
ever saw, and he himself was our best florist 
and most successful competitor at all West of 
Scotland shows for many years, so there is no 
one more capable to express an opinion on the 
subject. Mr, Feddie says the Pentstemon was 
difficult to keep in winter, and though adver¬ 
tised, it seems nowhere to be grown. I have 
bought seed of it and failed to raise it, for 
the seed is common if plants are rare. If any 
reader can certify as to its existence I will be 
much obliged. I have Chelone mexicana akin 
to it, and I have seen here Pentstemon Torreyi, 
but Murrayanus is far denser in the spike than 
these, I understand. From Mr. II. Robertson, 
of Thornhillbank, I have received P. Cameroni; 
not the first good thiDg I have to acknowledge 
from him either. I have P. digitalis too, but 
have just missed flowering it through frost. Of 
late a new taste has developed for old-fashioned 
flowers, one of which is the Matricaria inodora 
fl.-pl. I sought this for years, as I had a remem¬ 
brance of seeing it in our old home garden when 
a boy. Originally, it was found by Mr. Muir, 
sixty years ago, just where Austin and M’Aslan’s 
nurseries are at Coplaw Hill, now almost a part 
of Glasgow. Mr. William Nielson, late gardener 
to the old College, says it was lost, and found 
again growing wild by a little girl, who gave it 
to Mr. A. Hill, late of the Southside Park here, 


Google 





5i»0 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[Mahch 1, 1884. 


from whom all that is now grown was obtained. 
It was also said to be found wild in the Mearns 
parish, so it must have been more common at 
one time than it is now, as I never could see a 
plant of it wild anywhere around. The name it 
goes by here is the Double Horse Gowan. 
Another old plant has risen into favour, viz., the 
old Pot Marigold, under the name of Calendula 
officinalis (Meteor). Iremember, thirtyyears ago, 
my father growing this self sowing annual, so it is 
no new discovery. I recovered it at Shandon 
some years since, and never want seedlings of it, 
as the seed is very hardy, but it is better to 
select the best flowers for seed as it runs out, 
and it is better to have a variety of deep yellow 
and light tipped ones as well. I trust a careful 
eye will be kept all over the country for rare and 
good plants, as I find myself often, in out-of-the- 
way gardens, seeing curious subjects which seem 
utterly unknown in neighbouring parishes, or 
even duly appreciated by those growing them. 
Could we get our intelligent young men to in¬ 
terest themselves a little in gardening, instead 
of devoting all their time to football and cricket, 
or, worse than all, standing idly by while others 
enjoy these healthy and muscle-developing ex¬ 
ercises, why then, much would be gained flori- 
culturally. Certainly, for pure enjoyment and 
easy bracing exercise, a taste for flowers is one 
of the best possible recreations, as well as the 
most varied, which is open to almost all of ns. 
For the thin, sallow clerk, confined all day long 
in a close office with unwholesome gas burning 
for hours, or the busy warehouseman, kept 
worrying with customers' uncertain tastes over 
counters, a little wild flower and fern coliesting, 
which leads into Nature’s fair valleys and breezy 
braes, or an hour's quiet gardening at home, 
would refresh the weary workers in the arith¬ 
metical wildernesses of our cities :— 

“ The world Is too much with us—late and soon. 

Getting and spending we lay waste our powers: 

Little we see in Nature that is ours; 

We have given our hearts away, a sordid boon !" 

There is a selfishness to be deplored, and it is 
manifested by people who should know better, 
as the moment they enter a garden, or come upon 
a floral paradise in some woodland retreat, their 
first instinct is to pluck everything, and where 
they found a blooming dell to leave it a flower- 
less waste. This is not the love of flowers—not 
a true enjoyment of their beauty, as a few hours 
in the hand make them limp and joyless to see. 
To gather a flower is one thing, to strip a garden 
as I have too often seen done, is quite a different 
thing. The vandalism of summer visitors at 
the coast and highland glen is so vexing to the 
lover of Nature, that it is high time all florUts 
at heart should help to put it down. To see the 
wholesale Fern extermination in July, carried 
on every wherein “ Nature's sanctuaries," is what, 
if not checked, will soon destroy whole species 
altogether in our Islands. Pulled up by the 
roots, by people who do not know how to culti¬ 
vate them —for if they did they would not take 
them when in the full growth of the season—is 
certainly a reflection upon the educated classes. 
All through the summer in our streets barrow- 
loads of our rarest Ferns are hawked about, very 
few of which can possibly survive such un¬ 
natural treatment, where the roots are exposed 
to the sun just when the plants require all the 
nourishment they can get. To pluck a specimen 
for an herbarinm, or carefully lift a plant with 
earth, no one could object to, but wholesale 
plundering and waste of the riches of Nature's 
beauty is very regrettable indeed. On the 
other hand, I have known real lovers of flowers, 
take seeds and sow them in some favourite 
haunt and return to see them bloom, feeling a 
satisfaction of heart at having aided the charm 
of the dell by a new beauty. To these people 
to see was to possess in full all that could be 
theirs, and to leave what others might see also 
was a second pleasure. To know the times and 
seasons for seeing certain flowers, to learn all 
about the various herbs in the garden of Nature, 
their qualities and virtues is true pleasure and 
instruction. To discover and leave blooming the 
curious Sun-dew on some mossy upland, or find 
the Holly Fern in some rocky crevice shaded 
from the sunshine, is object enough to the bota¬ 
nist for a country ramble. 

“ Oh I bonny are our greensward hows 

Whar thro* the birks the birny rows; 

And the bee bums ami the ox lows, 

And sail wlDrts rusle ; 

And -shepherd lads on snnny knows, 

Blaw the blythe fusle." 

Disitizsdty Google 


Again, just to see aome rare Lilium, or to con¬ 
vey some garden gem to an appreciative friend 
at a distance, is sufficient to direct the steps of 
the florist on a summer’s evening, not to speak 
of holding converse with a kindred spirit. For 
never yet have I found the true lover of flowers 
either an ignorant man or a fool. Hither the 
reverse is the fact, indeed, as the kindliest 
hearts and wisest heads of my acquaintance, not 
to say the shrewdest and most ready witted, the 
most sensitive and art loving of men, are all 
florists at heart. The man who understands the 
ways and habits of flowers, understands not a 
little of sympathetic human nature. The man 
who can contemplate the mystery of the vital 
principle at work in forming, colouring, and 
sustaining a flower, and yet be unable to look 
through Nature to the God of Nature, is a very 
poor creature, surely, of the “ Peter Bell" type. 


1 Flower in the crannied wall, 

I pluck you out of the crannies,— 

Hold yon here, root and all, in iny hand. 
Little flower—but if I could understand 
What you are, root and all, and all in a'l, 
I should know what God and man is.” 


For the love of the beautiful in flowers, even 
the statesman take3 a holiday, and the soldier 
can, for a season, torn his sword to a plough¬ 
share. The clergyman, who visits on mercy's 
errand, where “ the poor are hovell’d and hustled 
each sex like swine," can betake himself to the 
old manse garden, rich in old-fashioned Bweet- 
scented flowers, and get his spirits refreshed and 
his eye restored to a smile of hope in all things 
here below, where in Nature all is fair and un¬ 
sullied. The busy merchant, hardened by the 
world’s buying and selling, returns at evening to 
his Orchids and Ferns, and feels once more akin 
to mankind. The doctor, weary with the suffer¬ 
ings of the afflicted, finds a new interest among 
his flowers and rare plants, which for a little 
hide the pained faces from his weary sight. In 
the beauties of Nature the eager student can 
outrival the flowers of classic thought, and find 
again the wholesome eye where his overmuch 
study had only brought the “ jaundiced eye,” 
from dead controversies. Even the poor, pinched 
artisan, the Ishmael of depressions in trade, can 
find a little oasis in the desert of life, where, 
with his Pansies, he is for an hour, every weary 
day, above strikes and lock-outs. There, too, the 
delicate mother can breathe sweet breaths, the 
stirring boy learn to labour with his hands, and 
the roses of the household gather the fair sisters 
of the garden. Alexander Sweet. 

Cat heart. 


OUTDOOR PLANTS. 


NOTES ON PANSIES. 

In looking over Gardening Illustrated for 
February 9th I find another correspondent en¬ 
quiring about the properties of Pansies (seifs), 
and this in addition to the various other en¬ 
quiries that have appeared from time to time, 
and the answers thereto, show that although the 
Pansy is probably more extensively grown than 
any other florist flower, yet a thorough and 
accurate knowledge of its classification and pro¬ 
perties is bnt little known id general, and even 
the illustrations that have appeared convey but 
a poor idea of itstrae character, and are far below 
the standard required and already attained by 
many varieties in actual cultivation at the 
present time. I will, therefore, try, to give as 
clear a description as I can of the classes and 
properties of the Pansy. The show Pansy is 
divided into three classes, viz., seifs, yellow 
grounds, and white grounds. The flower in all 
cases should be perfectly round, and the petals 
thick, wide, and overlapping each other, and the 
bottom petal should be sufficiently wide to reach 
to the outer edge of the side petals The 
colours in all cases should be dense, bright, and 
well defined, not streaked or blotchy at all. 
Selfs should have the yellow eye in the centre of 
the flower, and be quite solid, the blotch sur¬ 
rounding the eye also quite solid and rather 
wider than deep, and around this blotch is the 
class colour, as white in white seifs,yellow in 
yellow seifs, and black, bine, or purple in dark 
seifs. Some very fine dark seifs will have a little 
shading of blue around the blotch, but they are 
not as a rule disqualified on this account. Yel¬ 
low grounds have the eye and blotch same as for 

I seifs, then the ground colourorfield, which must 
bethesame shade of yellow in thesideand bottom 
petals alike; then, after the ground colour, comes 


the belting, which must completely surround 
the outer edge of the flower, without any 
patching or breaking, and must be solid. 
All the properties in the white gronnd class 
are the same as in yellow grounds, the only 
difference being the ground colour, white instead 
of yellow. Those who say a Pangy with a blotch 
is not a self are in error.asthedensity and shape 
of the blotch in every class forms a very import¬ 
ant feature in the estimation of all Pansy con¬ 
noisseurs. Certainly there are a few dark seifs 
that do not show the blotch plainly, but even 
these are deeper and brighter near the ey e than 
in any other part of the flower. There is yet 
another class of Pansies of which I have not 
spoken before, viz., class 4—fancies, which are 
even more popular and more extensively grown, 
I believe, than the show varieties. They are 
commonly called the Lady's Flower, I presume 
from their very singular and attractive appear- 
ance. These as a rule are larger and coarser 
than the Bhow varieties. The blotch of these 
should cover quite two-thirds of the flower, and 
be well defined, dense, and the colours bright 
and clear; and whatever the colours* of the 
the other portions of the flowers may be, they 
should be bright, clear, and well defined, the 
flowers Bhould be circular in outline, the petals 
thick and overlapping each other, the bottom 
petals as wide as the flower, and its upper edge 
should be in adirectline from theeyeto the outer 
edge of the side petals. Of course there are 
many fine varieties that do not possess all these 
properties, bnt the nearer they come up to it 
the better. S. Shepperson. 

Prosjmt Souse, Bcljier. 


THE WINTER HELIOTROPE. 

Public attention seems to have only been 
attracted to Petasites fragrans of late years, but 
from my childhood I have been in the habit of 
seekiDg its deliciously scented blossoms every 
year. In the sonth and west of Ireland it 
flowers much earlier than it does on this nort hern 
coast—the end of January and early in Feb¬ 
ruary being the period doling which it is in full 
flower. The name “ Petasites " is derived from 
a Greek word, signifying “a little hat,”owiDg 
to the shape of the individual blooms, which do 
resemble a little comical hat, with an upturned 
brim. The plant is now so widely distributed 
over Ireland, that it may be regarded as quite 
naturalised, but it certainly is not indigenous. 
Whether it be so in Italy, as your correspondent, 
F. Martin, says, I cannot say ; but it certainly 
grows indigenonsly in the east, whither it 
was brought by pilgrims, it having been con¬ 
sidered a specific against the plague. The 
roots, leaves, and sterna, all pounded together, 
were used both as external applications and 
decoctions were prepared from them. The 
roots are fleshy, long, and creeping, and almost 
impossible to eradicate when they once take 
possession of a spot which suits them, as is the 
case with all the Tussilagea. The roots are hot 
and bitter in flavour, and have a strong resinous 
smell, and every artist knows how valuable are 
all the varieties when in the full beauty of 
their grand summer leafage, as foregrounds for 
some swampy bit of wa-te or woodland. The 
colour I should never think of calling “ flesh 
colour,” at least, flesh of that tint could never 
be seen in a sound living being. It is a dull and 
dingy lilac or lavender, but its odour, coming at a 
time when odorous wild flowers are not to be had, 
makes it invaluable. It is too strong for a 
room when fires and lamps are in full sway, bnt 
in halls and corridors, or wafted in from a 
conservatory, it is delicious. It was formerly 
called the Plague flower, and grows in this 
neighbourhood in four separate localities, where 
it certainly was never cultivated within the 
memory of man. P. alba, the common Bur¬ 
dock, and the common Coltsfoot, are everywhere, 
and most welcome, at least to me, whether 
their great green leaves lie unruffled or are 
furled by the wind eo as to ehow the silvery 
under-surfaces. Maby C. N. Munster. 


11054— Single Dahlias.— You must not 
treat the Dahlia tubers as you propose. If you 
break them off separately they may not start at 
all. The right thing to do now would be to 
place the tubers in a box, and cover over the 
roots with cocoa-nut fibre reruse, leaf-mould, or 
even ordinary garden soil. If you could put t he 
box into a forciug house or a hotbed, the shoots 



591 


March 1 , 1884.] GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


would soon start from the crown; when they 
are 2 inches or 3 inches long they mu3t be taken 
off as cuttiDgs, and they would soon form roots 
in a hotbed, or better still with a little bottom- 
heat in a forcing house. If you have no means 
of starting the tubers in heat or propagating 
cuttings, let the tubers start and then divide the 
plant into three or four pieces by splitting it 
down the crown, leaving a shoot on each por¬ 
tion.—J. Douglas. 

11042.—Chrysanthemums not flower¬ 
ing.—You evidently possess some very peculiar 
variety of Chrysanthemum. I have grown tens 
of thousands, and never knew any one variety 
that refused absolutely to flower. If you have 
room for one variety only, grow Mrs. Handle; 
or, if you prefer the Japanese type, Lady Sel- 
borne. I would not stop them after May in the 
future.—J. D. E. 


THE COMING WEEK'S WORK. 


Gdasshouaea. 

Hard-wooded Plants requiring repotting 
should be attended to at once, and afterwards 
kept for a time in the closest part of the green¬ 
house. They should not be watered for some 
days after being potted, bat the atmosphere 
should, if possible, be somewhat damp. Clim¬ 
bers of various sorts should be thinned and tied, 
taking care in thinning to provide for a free dis¬ 
play of flowers rather than a gross production of 
wood. 

Soft Wooded Plants —Attend well to Fuch¬ 
sias, Geraniums, and Calceolarias, as these play a 
conspicuous part when early spring plants are 
over. Keep Fuchsias well stopped in and en¬ 
couraged with manure water as soon as their 
pots are filled with roots. Be careful not to 
use it too strong, however, as when that is the 
case it does more harm than good. In tying 
Geraniums use just sufficient sticks to support 
them and no more; as soon as their flowers are 
formed give them weak manure water once or 
twice a week. When Achimenes have made 
C inches of growth pinch out their points, to in¬ 
duce .them to break and grow stocky, and tie 
them out sufficiently open to allow the light to 
act on their bottom leaves, otherwise these will 
turn yellow and drop off. It is time now to 
make provision for next autumn and winter’s 
display, by making a sowing of Primula and 
Cineraria seed; also by striking a batch of 
Euphorbia jacquinueflora, Hydrangeas, and 
Poinsettias. Some experience difficulty in 
striking this Euphorbia; if the young shoots are 
taken off with a heel when from 4 inches to 
G inches long, and inserted in silver sand, in a 
moderate heat, covered with a bell glass, very 
few will fail; but if the cuttings are made from 
a joint in the ordinary way the greater number 
will not succeed. Give attention to such plants 
as Deutzias, Spirreas, and similar things that 
have been forced; for if neglected now they 
will not flower satisfactorily next winter. It is 
the best practice to cut all the old wood out of 
the Deutzias, depending on young shoots from 
the base of the plant for next year’s bloom. 
Another batch of zonal Pelargoniums should 
now be potted for summer flowering. The 
double kinds should also now be started in a 
gentle heat. A good batch of Lobelias of the 
fulgens type should be potted in rich soil in 
small pots. These shifted on through the sum¬ 
mer and kept to single stems will make fine 
plants for conservatory decoration in autumn. 
Keep up regular sowings of annuals, including 
Mignonette, for pot culture, taking especial 
care that the latter never suffers from drought. 

Flower Garden. 

Herbaceous plants may now be cut down; 
top-dress with light manure or charred refuse, 
which will give a neat appearance, and defer 
forking or picking over until bulbs and other 
underground occupants have made an appear¬ 
ance. Place herbaceous Lobelias which have 
been wintered in frames or boxes in gentle heat; 
when fairly started, pull them to pieces and pot 
the offshoots singly in small pots, return them 
to a close frame, and harden off when well 
rooted. Calceolarias, being almost hardy, resent 
coddling. If too thick, lift and replant them 
on a sheltered border where they can have 
slight protection. Use equal parts of leaf- 
mould and new loam as a compost; pinch 
closely when in growth Yind water liberally. 

D t VjO glc 


Propagate cuttings of split-up roots of blue 
Salvias and single Dahlias. 

Sow seeds of Dahlias and herbaceous Phloxes 
in pans of light soil, keeping them close and 
warm to bring them forward. Make up a small 
hotbed for Golden Feather Pyrethrum, which 
may be sown broadcast. For choice annuals 
plunge small 3-inch pots close together, fill 
with light soil, sow thinly, and protect them 
from heavy rain. Mignonette, Stocks, and 
Sweet Peas treated in this way come in useful 
for early cutting. Tush on the propagation of 
all kinds of tender bedding plants; pot them 
off when ready, and grow on without a check. 
Propagate blue Lobelias by cuttings and 
division of the roots. A variety under the 
name of Brighton is one of the best for general 
purposes. If not already done, pot off Geraninms 
and keep them in a warm house until thoroughly 
established. All seeds from which flower garden 
plants are expected should be sown about the 
present time. This also applies to Asters, as 
these are very often sown too late to give them 
a chance of blooming before being cut off by 
frost in autumn. 

Climbing plants now beginning to grow 
will need pruning, training, and a general look¬ 
ing over. Jasminum nudiflorum and Garrya 
elliptica are at present conspicuous amoDg wall 
plants; the former is covered with bright yellow 
blossoms, and the latter witli long pendulous 
catkins. Bulbs of Gladioli should be replanted. 
Sweet Peas and many other annuals should be 
sown where they are to flower, but anything 
choice or rare had better be sown in pans or 
boxes, and transplanted after all danger of 
severe weather is past. 

Rosea. 

PRUNING. — For ordinary purposes Roses 
should not be pruned too severely, as numbexs 
of flowers are generally more acceptable than a 
few exceptionally large ones. It may be taken 
as a safe rule that the stronger the natural 
growth of the variety, and the more vigorous the 
state of the individual plant, the less pruning 
needed, for the obvious reason that a plant in 
this condition is calculated to support a greater 
number of shoots with a proportionately larger 
crop of bloom than one that is weaker, either 
by accident or the less vigorous habit of the 
sort. In all cases it is advisable to remove com¬ 
pletely out from their base the whole of the 
weak, thin wood, the produce of last or previous 
seasons. These weak growths tend to crowd 
the plants, keeping out both sun and air. With 
Roies that are naturally weak growers it is 
necessary to prune to fewer eyes than in the 
case of the streng ones, otherwise, if left too 
full, the flow of sap is directed to the formation 
and support of a much greater number of shoots 
than are ever strong enough to bear flowers, to 
the manifest detriment of those which are. All 
the Tea varieties must be pruned very cautiously, 
leaving their strong growths without further 
interference than being somewhat shortened; 
but with these, likewise, it is advisable to thin 
out all the weak shoots. With the weakest 
growers of the Teas also leave the strongest 
shoots a considerable length, but reduce the 
number proportionate to the natural strength of 
the variety and the more or less vigorous con¬ 
dition the plant happens to be in. 

If not already done, all standard and half¬ 
standard Roses should be gone over, and where 
any broken or doubtful stakes exist they should 
be renewed. The whole stock ought to be re¬ 
tied every spriug, and for this there is nothing 
better than good tar twine, not low-priced in¬ 
ferior material that will give way before the end 
of the year. The larger the heads the stouter 
the supports should be, as will be obvious from 
the greater hold the wind has on them. In every 
garden each plant should be named, or half the 
pleasure derivable from seeing them when in 
flower is lost by those who are equally fond of 
Roses, but who do not know so much about 
them; consequently all that require it should 
have fresh labels attached to them. For ordi¬ 
nary cultivators nothing is better or neater in 
appearance than zinc labels written on with in¬ 
delible ink. 

Shrubbery. 

Many varieties of shrubs that have been 
allowed to get into an unsightly condition by 
overcrowding may with advantage be headed 
down to within 2 feet or so of the ground; 
common and Portugal Laurels especially will 


be much improved by this, and will soon form 
good heads. Ivy on walls covering arbours, 
or any similar structures, should now be cut. 
Great advantage in yearly cutting Ivy is that 
the leaves, which annually decay and fall off, 
are all cleared away at once, and although the 
Ivy thus stripped of its leaves for a few weeks 
looks bare, still, when the work is done at this 
season, just as growth is about to commence, it 
shortly becomes clothed with new foliage of the 
most beautiful green. The present is a good 
time for planting Ivy. If the soil bo deficient 
add as much as will bring it up to I foot in 
depth at least, to which dig in 4 inches of good 
rotten manure. With suitable preparation Ivy 
wdl make more growth in a single season than 
it would in three seasons in poor, shallow soil. 
The planting of deciduous trees cannot be tco 
speedily finished now for the season; evergreens 
may be transplanted later. Coniferous trees, as 
a rule, transplant very well in the spring time. 
In planting, preserve the roots as entire as 
possible, and do not bury them more deeply 
than is necessary; stake snob as require support. 
Instead of roughly filling in the soil, it should be 
well and carefully worked in amongst the roots 
with the hand, and a good soaking of water at 
planting time has also an excellent effect in 
settling the soil about the roots. 

Lawns. — These should be swept, rolled, 
and, if necessary, mowed. Where they are 
covered with Moss it should be raked off, a 
top-dressing of finely-sifted soil applied, and 
some Grass and White Clover seeds sown at the 
same time. The top-dressing should be equally 
spread, raked smoothly and level, and then 
well rolled. Should the lawn be thinly covered 
with Grass, although free from Moss, a top¬ 
dressing of good soil, with some guano mixed 
with it, and also a sprinkling of Grass and 
Clover seed, will greatly renovate the turf. 
Before applying it, however, go over the surfaco 
with an iron-toothed rake, so that the old and 
new soils may the more readily unite; soot, salt, 
or guano applied alone in rainy weather is also 
productive of excellent results. If the edges 
of lawns or Grass walks be well rolled before 
trimming them, that operation can be more 
neatly and accurately done. Turfing of lawns 
may still be performed, but the sooner such 
work is finished now the better will the Grais 
stand the summer's drought. In the absence of 
turf, seeds may be used, but in that case a long 
time elapses before a thick, close carpet can be 
formed, and continuous attention in the way of 
mowing is requisite. We always sow on a dry, 
still day, working the soil down afterwards very 
fine with iron rakes, and giving a light covering 
of fine rich soil. In order to make a good lawn 
the soil needs very careful preparation the sea¬ 
son preceding that of sowing, as if it be full of 
seeds of weeds it is useless sowing fine Grass 
seeds and expecting a good lawn, as the strong¬ 
est growers overpower the weaker ones unless 
very carefully eradicated early in the season. 

Walks. —Good sound dry walks should always 
be aimed at, but above all things do not mul¬ 
tiply them unnecessarily, as more gardens are 
spoiled by too many walks than the reverse. The 
edgings should now be put in order, and the 
surface of the walks rendered firm by frequent 
rolling. Where good binding gravel is procu¬ 
rable it is easy to form good walks, but where it 
is not many expedients have to be adopted. We 
find clinkers from furnaces to make excellent 
drainage, covered with broken stone, laying on 
the top fine stone or chippings from the quarries; 
after these are are well solidified by rolling, a 
layer of shell gravel or fine shingle makes a 
soft and pleasant surface that looks bright and 
clean at all times. Box edgings may now be relaid, 
and any gaps in existing ones filled up ; stakes 
should also be driven in at the corners to protect 
the edging from being trodden down. 

Fruit. 

All planting or removal of trees should be 
completed at once, or else be deferred till the 
autumn ; pruning, nailing, and tying should now 
be brought to a close ; but if the trees and walls 
have not had any dressing, as a preventive 
against the attacks of aphides, they may safely 
be syringed with soap-suds till there are indica¬ 
tions of the blossoms opening. It will now be 
safe to uncover Fig trees that were matted for 
the winter. Very little pruning will be neces¬ 
sary if summer stopping or pinching out of the 
points of the new growths has been done ; but 




592 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 1 , 1884 . 


should this not have been the case, it will now 
be necessary to thin out all the bare or budless 
Bhoots, and those that seem the most immature. 

Vines in the open air should now be pruned 
by catting out all the old gnarled rods or long 
spurred wood, retaining as much of the new 
wood as can conveniently be laid in without 
overcrowding, as this produces the finest and 
most fruit. As a matter of course, the close or 
short spur system of pruning presents a better 
appearance, but in this only consists its supe¬ 
riority. 

Strawberries will now require attention. 
First go over them with the hoe, stirring the soil 
between the rows. If there be any small weeds 
it will destroy them, and if any of larger growth 
they must be removed. After this the Straw¬ 
berries should at once receive their spring dress¬ 
ing of stable manure. That which has lain 
together a few weeks will be in the best order. 
This should be put on 2 inches thick, the whole 
of the ground between the plants being covered. 
The manurial portion will get washed in with 
the rains, the straw will be left quite clean, and 
in a condition for keeping the fruit from getting 
soiled with heavy rains. If applied at once, there 
is plenty of time for the straw to get thoroughly 
cleansed and sweetened by exposure to the 
weather. In this respect it will be just as good 
as the new straw that is sometimes placed on 
just before the fruit is ripe, and it has the ad¬ 
vantage of actiDg as a manure just at a time 
when it will benefit the crop, and serve as a 
mulching, which prevents the undue evapora¬ 
tion from the soil of the moistuie stored up 
during the winter, and of which these shallow 
' surface-rooting plants stand so much in need 
whilst the crop is swelling. Nothing can be 
more unsuitable than the mulchings of Gra's 
mowings sometimes used. These are naturally 
cold, in addition to which whatever seeds are 
in them will germinate, filling the ground with 
grass, which is much more difficult to deal with 
in a fruit garden than annual weeds. 

Orchard houses. —Unheated orchard houses 
must be retarded in order to escape injury 
from spring frosts when the trees are in flower ; 
but with a flow and return pipe along the front 
of a lean-to and all round a span-roof, steady 
progress may be encouraged, as a very moderate 
apparatus will maintain a temperature of 40° 
in frosty weather, and keep the atmosphere in 
motion when damp and foggy. As the sun 
gains power, water must be given in greater 
quantities, and good syringing will play a very 
important part until the flowers open, when the 
stems and floors only must receive moisture. The 
best time for the present to water the trees is 
early in the morning, but when the fruit is set 
and the growth rapid, the evening will be pre¬ 
ferable. Warm soft water is best for the 
roots, and it should always be used for syring¬ 
ing, as it is free from calcareous matter, which 
disfigures the woolly coat of the fruit. A suit¬ 
able temperature for a mixed collection of fruit 
trees may range from 40° to SO 3 at night, and 
run up to 60° by day; but a lower temperature 
with a dry atmosphere will do no harm. Smok¬ 
ing just before the flowers open must not be 
neglected, and fertilisation will, of course, re¬ 
ceive unremitting attention. 

Vegetables. 

Peas. — A diligent look-out must be kept on 
Peas that have been sown out-of-doors and are 
now about breaking through the soil, to see that 
they are not eaten by sparrows, for if these 
birds discover them just as they get above 
ground, they will frequently destroy a whole 
crop in a few hours. A little soot dusted over 
them when damp will preserve them from in¬ 
jury so long as it remains, but being liable to be 
washed off by the rain, it is better to use the 
white threads as suggested in a former number 
for bush fruits. Make another sowing of good 
second early kinds. Where suitable sticks are 
plentiful, tall kinds are the best to sow at this 
period of the year, as they bear longer than 
dwarf sorts, or such as are of medium height. 
Where tall varieties are grown, always give 
plenty of room ; there should be not less than 
5 feet between the rows, as to crowd them is the 
reverse of any gain, for without sufficient air 
and light the pods never fill as they ought. 
Directly the earliest Bowings are staked, a line 
of Spinach should be sown between the rows. 
This will be ready^fqr use and ^lie ground 


gm 


ly for use and the g 

Go gle 


cleared before the Peas are fit to gather, and it 
will in no way interfere with their growth. 

Seakale, the crowns of which were covered 
with a few ashes as recommended early in the 
winter, should now have about 10 inches of this 
material placed over them, as they will shortly 
begin to grow, and, so treated, will blanch per¬ 
fectly and be found superior to any forced Kale. 
When of sufficient size to use, all that is required 
is to remove the ashes, cut the young shoots off 
at the tops of the crowns, and subject them to 
a slight washing, which will free them from the 
ashes. The stools may remain where they are to 
make growth for another season; they will need 
no further attention except the keeping of the 
ground free from weeds, and cutting out the 
flowering stems which will be pushed up daring 
the summer. 

Onions. —The main crop of Onions should be 
sown as soon us the land is sufficiently dry, but 
on no account if it be so wet as to adhere to 
either the tools or the feet. In pointing 
in the surface surface-dressing of manure spread 
over the ground do not let it be too deep, or the 
young plants will be too long in getting their 
roots into it. With this, as with almost all 
other vegetables, the system of growing in rows 
should be recommended. It affords such great 
facilities for thinning the crops, for the use of 
the hoe in destroying weeds, and for keeping the 
surface stirred (by which the ground is aerated 


sponge the leaves with soap and water, after¬ 
wards washing them by pouring water on them 
for a few minutes through a fine-rosed watering- 
pot. I repeat this operation afterwards about 
once a week, except during hot weather, when 
t> e windows are kept opeD, when it requires it 
twice. When the pots are getting full of roots, 
they want water about once a week. I never 
give larger than 7-inch pots, but when tho¬ 
roughly pot-bound I give soot water or liquid 
manure. I have used this Palm as a centre¬ 
piece in a bay window, surrounding it with 
Begonias, Harrison’s Musk, Golden-leaved Fuch¬ 
sias, Mimuluses, Petunias, &c. I have grown 
the following kinds of Palms also in windows, 
but they never gave me such credit as the one 
just alluded to:—Areca Baueri, Chamierops For- 
tunei, C. humilis, Seaforthia elegans, Thrinax 
parviflora, Kentia australis, and Corypba aus¬ 
tralis. These species, when grown in a green¬ 
house and with plenty of pot-room, are of large 
size when fully developed, but by managing 
them in the way above described, their growth 
is kept within bounds. G. H. 



Kentia Canterburyana. 

and made open for the descent of rains, and the 
loss of moisture by evaporation in dry weather 
is prevented). The use of soot should not be 
omitted, especially in old gardens where the 
land is at all light, for in these the ravages of 
the Onion grub are most felt. The lighter the 
land is, naturally, the more solid it ought to be 
made. Then mark out the rows 1 foot apart and 
half-inch deep. After sowing, draw the soil over 
the seeds with the back of the rake. Tread the 
ground thoroughly, and finish by rolling. 


HOUSE AND WINDOW GAEDENING. 

PALMS IN WINDOWS. 

I HAVE grown the Palm called Kentia Can- 
terburyana, of which the annexed is a good 
illustration, in my sitting-room window, and 
although they have usually come to me in a 
very healthy condition from a nurseryman's 
greenhouse, they have soon increased in healthi¬ 
ness and hardiness. I receive the plants in 
5-inch pots, with three leaves. In spring I shift 
to a 7-inch pot. I use for pottmg ordinary 
garden soil, free from worms, leaf-mould, Cocoa- 
nut fibre, coarse silver sand, and brioks broken 
to the size of Horse Beans in about equal parts. 
I keep the plants slightly shaded from the sun, 
but give all the light and sir possible. After 
potting I give no water till tbe soil is quite 
dry, and the pot sounds hollow when rapped 
with the knuckles; then 1 place the pot over 
I head and ears in a bucket of soft water, and 


INDOOR PLANTS: 

Fuchsias in winter— I have had a Fuch¬ 
sia in flower lor about a month, and another one 
coming into flower; they are in 5-inch pots, and 
have been in flower off and on all the year, bnt 
never without foliage. The temperature is 
from 40° to 60° in the daytime, and at night 
from 30° to 10°. I seldom light a fire, 
unless the temperature is at 39°, when I 
shut the house for the night about nine 
o'clock. I may add that I give plenty of 
air. Sometimes one of the ventilators is 
open from 9.30 in the morning to 6 or 
half-past 5 in the afternoon. All the 
other plants are doing well. Should I 
repot the Fuchsias or give them a top 
dressing 7 I have Geraniums and other 
plants in flower in the same honse. The 
Geraniums have been in flower from 
June last.—R. S. 

On repotting plants. — I would 
caution amateurs against over-potting, 
for if the drainage is good a plant is 
much more easily kept in good health 
in a pot tolerably full of healthy roots, 
if well supplied with moisture, than sur¬ 
rounded with a mass of inert soil. Of 
course, when it is desirable to grow large 
specimens of rapid growing and rooting 
plants like the Coleuses, Fuchsias, Gera¬ 
niums, or similar soft-wooded plants, 
they must be kept regularly shifted; bnt 
in the case of hard-wooded plants shifting 
into large pots is a matter requiring both 
skill and care. I have frequently shaken 
plants out of their pots that have never 
« rooted into the new soil, but were kept 
alive by the old ball of roots. When it is 
desirable to get up large specimens, if the 
plants are at all pot-bound, the outer roots 
should be carefully loosened from the ball, 
for if shifted into a solid mass it frequently 
happens that the new and old soils never be¬ 
come firmly united, and more harm than good 
is the result.—L. 

Lobelia in pane— The old Lobelia speci- 
osa produces an exceedingly pret ty effect if sown 
in pans and thinned out to 2 inches apart. If 
sown in March, by the end of July the plants 
will form in this way perfect cushions of blue; 
the mixed kind is the best, as the various shades 
from the palest blue to the darkest violet are 
charming in their variety. Pans are preferable 
to pots, as they allow a much larger surface of 
colour, and the Lobelia will completely cover 
the sides. When it begins to get seedy, clip it 
over with a pair of scissors, remove to the green¬ 
house, water with a little liquid manure, and it 
will soon be in full beanty again.—J. C. 

11058.— Cutting down Indiarubber 

plants.— Leave the Indiarubber plant alone 
until later on, then cut cff the top just below 
the joint, leaving two full grown leaves above, 
which tie np with a piece of bass so that they 
meet. Put the cuttings into a pot to strike in a 
warm place under glass. When the parent 
plant forms a new top, do the same thing until 
it becomes the height you want it. To prevent 
the stem bleeding, melt sealing-wax and drop it 
thickly over the wound.- A. N, 

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 



March 1 , 1884 .] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


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TREES AND SHRUBS. 


EDWARDSIA GRANDIFLORA. 

All the Edwardsias are very ornamental, and 
well deserving of more attention than they 
generally receive ; so rarely, indeed, do we meet 
with them in gardens, that they may be fairly 
l iaised among neglected plants. They are all 
mare or less tender, and even the hardiest of 
them will only succeed under the protection of a 
wall with a warm, sunny aspect. By far the 
most desirable of them is E. grandiflora, a deci¬ 


duous shrub of from 6 feet to 10 feet in height, 
indigenous to New Zealand, and introduced into 
this country so long ago as 1772. In its native 
habitats it forms a spreading bush, and in some 
districts occurs in such abundance as to form a 
prominent feature in the landscape, especially 
in spring, when covered with graoeful pendulous 
clusters of golden-yellow flowers. As seen under 
favourable circumstances in this country, it is 
a distinct-looking, denBley branched shrnb, with 
handsome pinnate leaves, producing flowers in 
great profusion in April or May before the leaves 
are fully expanded. Like all the other species, it 
grows freely in almost any kind of soil, but it 
prefers such as are deep, rich, and at the same 
time dry, the latter condition, owing to the plant 
having a tendency to make late autumn growths 

Digitized by Goosle 


being of great importance, inasmuch as under 
such circumstances it is enabled to ripen its 
young shoots thoroughly before winter seta in, 
and thus escape the injury which they would 
otherwise sustain from severe frost. From its 
i free habit of growth, and the abundance of its 
twiggy branches, as well as from its great 
patience under the pruning knife, this fine shrub 
is admirably adapted for walls or such other 
buildings as it is desirable to have clothed with 
foliage ; and to those who are making a selec¬ 
tion of plants for such a purpose, I cannot too 
highly recommend it, even although it should be 


necessary to protect it somewhat from the rigom a 
of exceptional winters, or in very exposed 
localities. H. F. 

Propagating Japanese Privet and 

Garry a elliptica.—Both of these plants may be 
readily increased by means of layers or cuttings. 
Garrya elliptica, however, succeeds best from 
layers, although cuttings placed in sharp sandy 
soil under a hand-light in a shady position root 
freely. Layering should not be practised in the 
case of Privet unless as a means of extending 
game covers, as cuttings strike readily and pro¬ 
duce the best specimen plants. The end of 
August is the proper time to insert cuttings, the 
temperature of both earth and air being then 
about equal.—A. D. \V. 


FRUIT. 

DAMSONS AND BULLACES. 

These valuable fruits are but coldly looked 
upon in private gardens, for they are considered 
common, or only in the next stage to wild indi¬ 
genous fruits of our hedgerows, and accordingly 
they are relegated to some out of the way 
comer, where nothing else will grow ; and as 
to any pruning or manuring, well, it is too 
much to expect it, when the choice tender fruits 
monopolise it all. Now, I should like to point 
out the fact that a fruit tree is valuable or 
the reverse, according to the crop of fruit it pro¬ 
duces, and certainly a good crop of DamBons or 
Bullaces returns more profit to the owner than 
the choicest Peach, Pear, or Cherry trees that 
were ever planted, simply because the Damsons 
are hardy enough to defy our inclement springs, 
while the tender fruits suffer more or less in the 
majority of seasons, and although I should by 
no means counsel the abandonment of tender 
varieties when suitable shelter can be given, I 
should certainly advise owners of 
gardens to insure a supply of the 
commoner hardy culinary and pre¬ 
serving fruits first, and then, going 
higher in the scale, buy as many 
choice dessert fruits as they have 
room for. It is usually said that 
Kent is the garden of England, 
and dwellers in other counties seem 
to think that Kent must enjoy a 
monopoly of good soils and 
climate. From several years’ ex¬ 
perience in the centre of a large 
fruit-growing district, I am fully convinced 
that what is done there could be done elsewhere 
if the same means were adopted, and one of the 
secrets of the success of Kentish fruit culti¬ 
vators is that they have given up trying to grow 
varieties that fail year after year, and go in 
solely for such things as yield crops with but 
slight variation every year, and Damsons and 
Bullaces are extensively grown in nearly all 
large fruit gardens, for being very hardy they 
make good shelter, and when planted in outside 
rows break the wind from more tender 
varieties, but they are tended just as carefully 
as the choicest kinds. Clean straight-stemmed 
young trees of the most prolific kinds only are 
planted, staked, and pruned, and the soil 
manured about their roots, with the result that 
the crop of Damsons and Bullaces is one of the 
most remunerative of the whole of orchard crops, 
and in private gardens they would be invaluable 
in lengthening the season during which fresh 
fruit fit for culinary purposes can be procured, 
as they hang on the trees after other varieties 
of the Plum tribe are over, and for preserving 
the large kinds of Bullaces and Damsons are 
invaluable. The following varieties are the 
ones held in highest esteem, viz.: The Crit¬ 
tenden or Cluster Damson, a variety that bears 
most astonishing crops; Cheshire or prune 
Damson, a large late kind ; White Bullace, or 
by some called the White Damson, a very useful 
dessert fruit, coming in when other sorts are 
over; Shepherd’s Bullace, a large round fruit 
that under good cultivation are quite equal to 
Plums; in fact, for preserving, they are the 
substitute for Greengages, and the enormous 
crops of these that are grown in the locality of 
Maidstone would hardly be credited except by 
actually seeing the trees with props under all 
the main branches to keep them from breaking 
down by reason of their weight. I do not know 
of any way more likely to increase the fruit crops 
in amateur’s gardens than by advising that they 
plant the above varieties without delay. 

Gosport . James Groom. 

Oape Gooseberry — 19 it possible that 

two varieties of this Gooseberry are described 
by different correspondents ? There is now 
living in this town an old Cape colonist who has 
in his garden some half dozen Cape Gooseberry 
bushes. The seed was obtained from his son in 
Cape Colony, and was sown in a frame in Novem¬ 
ber, 1882, and planted out in May, 1883. I saw 
the bushes in October, and they were about the 
size of Currant trees, and at a distance looked 
something like them. They then had fruit on 
them. The fruit is smooth skinned, about the 
size of a Gooseberry, and each enclosed in a 
loose papery capsule. He tells me he gathered 
enough for a large pudding which he had on 

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


Edward ala gramllflura. 















GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March 1 1884 


I 


504 


Christmas Day, and that in the Colony the fruit 
was brought into the towns in large quantities 
by the aborigines, and retailed from fourpence 
to a shilling a quart. The garden in which his 
bushes are gets very little sun, and is exposed on 
the north and north-west. The bushes are now 
cut down and the stools covered with ashes.— 
Tomato. 


RENOVATING OLD FRUIT TREES. 

It is more the rule than the exception for fruit 
trees to become unfruitful after a few years, and 
for them to be grubbed up and destroyed long 
before the period of usefulness ought to have 
ended, for a fruit tree is not such a transitory 
thing as to need replacing every few years. 
Under good culture they ought tolast many years, 
and certainly the produce of mature aged trees 
is quite equal, if not superior in flavour, to that 
produced by young trees. Before one proceeds to 
grub up trees as worthless simply because they 
do not bear good crops, I would unhesitatingly 
advise the trial of remedial measures, and in the 
first place I would look to the roots, for if they 
are in good condition the top growth will soon 
show a marked improvement. Open a wide 
trench, and gradually work down under the roots, 
which will probably be found in trees that have 
been long neglected to be almost destitute of 
fibrous roots near the surface, but long thong¬ 
like roots running down into the poor subsoil; 
these must be got out and brought up to the 
surface, shortening them back to where they are 
sound, and covering them with good fresh soil, 
Buch as turf or top-spit soil from a pasture, for 
(his contains the most congenial food for the 
tender rootlets that will soon form in abundance. 
Cover the surface soil with half-rotten manure 
to keep the soil of an equable degree of heat 
and moisture, and to give soluble food as the 
nutriment gets washed down by heavy rains. 
Then look to the top growth of branches, for I 
find thattrees wear out from over extension and 
over restriction of branches, but from the latter 
cause most speedily. For instance, in many gar¬ 
dens we find fruit trees of various kinds cropped 
in so bare that not a scrap of young wood is 
left at their annual shearing, and consequently 
the tree gets into a stunted, unfruitful state. 
The best remedy for these is to allow a good lot 
of young wood to extend at will for a year or 
two, and then select the most promising and 
fruitful shoots for forming the outline of the 
future tree. Thus a tree that has been cropped 
down may be converted into a fruitful I’yramid 
or Rush Tree, the most natural form being the 
best. I have many trees thus treated perfectly 
wreathed with blossom buds simply through 
letting the wood extend ; while on the close re¬ 
strictive system they only produced leaves. 
Trees that have been allowed to extend without 
any check whatever until they cease to make 
any new growth, are equally benefited by 
shortening some of the main branches back 
considerably, and they will soon form a new 
head of fruitful branches. It is somewhat sin¬ 
gular that the only way of keeping many sorts 
of Apples fruitful is by annually shortening 
the leading shoots a little, which has the effect 
of keeping up a moderate growth that is con¬ 
genial to fertility. A happy medium course 
between the extremes of extension and repres¬ 
sion is unquestionably the best to ensure a long 
series of years of fertility. — J. Groom, Qotpcrt. 


HINTS ON STRAWBERRY CULTURE. 

I find that the Strawberry plant in nine cases 
out of ten cannot come to perfection for want 
of room. The way to grow good Strawberries 
is to give the plants plenty of room, then we 
can manure, clean, dig, water, and gather with¬ 
out injury to the crop. I will give my plan of 
cultivating and managing the Strawberry, which 
I have found to answer well, having taken 
several prizes at the leading shows for size, 
flavour, and varieties. 

Preparation of the soil and plants.— 
About the middle of October I double dig the 
ground two spits deep, and well mix with the 
soil as I proceed plenty of well-rotted manure. 
I leave it as rough as I can for the frost to 
sweeten and pulverise dnriDg the winter. In the 
Bpring I dig it lightly over, and plant the ground 
with early Potatoes, which I keep working 
among, and keep all weeds down until they are 
fit to dig. I dig the Potatoes as soon as they 

DigitteM by GOOgle 


are ripe, and I keep the ground free from weeds 
until it is time to plant my Strawberry runners. 
During the summer I look round and see if 
any friend of mine has got the kinds I want 
(if I have not any old roots of the kind myself), 
and I ask him to save the first plants that grow 
upon the runners next to the old plant, by 
pinching the other part off throwing all 
the strength into the young plant as Boon as 
they are rooted. About the first week in August 
I take them off the old plant, trim them, and 
plant them firmly in the ground, not so deep as 
to bury the heart, or the plant will take several 
weeks to recover itself. Take your garden line, 
strain it across the bed to be planted, cut two 
measuring sticks a yard each (I plant a yard 
apart each way) and plant the first row, then 
strain the line the reverse way of the bed, and 
plant the same as the other row so as to have 
the rows in straight lines whichever way you 
look at them Continue in the same way till 
you have planted as much ground as yon intend 
to plant. To utilise the ground you may plant 
three or four rows of winter Onions between 
each row of Strawberry plants; also the next 
spring you can plant a few Radishes. Keep the 
ground clear of weeds, and cut off all runners 
that make their appearance as fast as they grow. 

Summer treatment.—As soon as the plants 
begin to flower, get some short straw (or litter 
from the stable is best) and place it along 
between the rows (some use tan which is very 
good for the purpose), taking care not to injure 
the plants. If the weather Bhould be dry and 
hot, give the bed a good soaking with liquid 
manure. Do not let it touch the foliage or 
fruit, or it will do serious injury. After the 
fruit is gathered, rake off all the straw,clear the 
weeds off, and lightly dig a little manure down 
the centre of each row. Do not dig near the 
plants or you will injure the roots. You may 
the second year plant a fresh plantation down 
the centre of each row; the fourth year you may 
dig all the old roots of the first planting up, 
manure well where they grew, and replant with 
young plants, so keeping your bed in good 
bearing for any number of years. 

Best sorts to plant. —Sir Joseph Paxton, 
handsome, early, good flavour, great cropper, 
travelsiwell, and a good constitution, also forces 
well; President, good cropper, superior flavour, 
and firm, and will travel better than most other 
varieties, good colour; St. Marguerite, juicy, 
sweet, firm, and of large size ; Oxonian, a good 
old sort. G. M. Stratton. 

Worcester. 


11051. — Currant and Gooseberry 
trees.—As the trees bore a crop of fruit last 
year, they will do so again this year. It is get¬ 
ting rather late now to prune them, but if the 
wood is too much crowded I would do so. The 
right time to prune is November or December. 
If they have been neglected for some years, a 
good dressing of rich manure would be very 
beneficial to them.—J. D. E. 

110GG.—Fruit trees from cuttings.— 
You cannot propagate Apple and Plum trees 
from cuttings, with the exception of a variety 
of Apple termed the Burr Knott. This may be 
propagated from cuttings. It is a fairly good 
Apple, but not one that can be recommended 
for general culture. It is better and easier in 
every way to graft Apple trees, and raise Plums 
by budding on suitable stocks.—J. D. E. 

Ground bones for vines.— American Grape growers 
affirm that the very beat results have been obtained from 
the use of ground bones as manure for vines. Bones 
contain a large proportion of phosphate ol lime, which 
enters largely into the composition of the Grape. Bone 
manure 1 b stated to he the best vine fertiliser and sn 
almost certain preventive of abortive Grapes. 

11026.—Planting vines. — You hnd better have 
young vines. Black Hamburgh vines would do well in a 
border such as you propoao.—J. D. E. 


Making a hotbed—The quantity of 
manure required for a hotbed depends upon 
the size of the frame er box to be used. For 
ordinary requirements, the heap of manurewhen 
finished should stand 1G inches outside of the 
frame or box all round. Care should be taken 
to let the edge of the frame rest well into the 
heap of manure. When pig manure is used, Bn 
equal quantity of horse manure should be used. 
Pig manure is best for hotbeds when obtained 
from animals fattening—that from those which 
have been grazing on commons and roadsides is 


full of undigested seeds of weeds, and should net j 
be used until these have been destroyed by : 
frequently turning over the manure-heap. 


VEGETABLES. 

Gutting Potato Beta.—I formerly had 
an idea that medinm-sized whole Potatoes were 
best to plant, but recent experiments bave 
shaken my confidence in planting whole Pota¬ 
toes. I believe that large ones, cut into single 
eyes, will furnish a better return than planting 
whole tubers; moreover, and this is of some 
importance, the crop will be fit to dig at least a 
week earlier, a circumstance for which a reason 
is not far to seek, inasmuch as one strong stem 
from each set is better than a cluster of weakly 
ones ; the former will produce on the average 
from four to six good-sized tubers, whilst the 
latter will yield a host of small Potatoes, in ad¬ 
dition, perhaps, to one or two good-sized ones. 
The crown eyes are better and more prolific 
than those produced on the sides of the tubers. 
—W. 

Spring Cabbages. —These will now be 
starting into rapid growth, and all gaps caused 
by blind plants, or any that may be running up 
to seed, should be made good from the store 
bed; then lightly fork the soil up between the 
rows, or stir it deeply with hoes. A little short 
rotten manure spread between the rows will be 
of great benefit, especially if the soil was at all 
exhausted at planting time by previous crops, 
for the Cabbage delights in plenty of rich food; 
indeed it is one of those vegetables that can 
hardly have too rich a soil. 4Ve usually cut the 
hearts of the Cabbages when they are wbat may 
be termed only three quirters grown, and then 
take a crop of Sprouts off the stumps.—G. 
Broad Beans. —In dry districts where Rroad 
Beans were sown about the beginning of the 
year, they will be now above the ground, and a 
second sowing should be made; this crop also 
likes heavy soil. Sow more Radishes, raking in 
the seed, it not being necessary now to cover it 
with litter. See that the litter is removed alto¬ 
gether from the second sowing as soon as up, 
for after this time the frost is Dot likely to be 
sufficiently severe to injure them. Sow a little 
Mustard and Cress every fortnight in well 
manured ground. To have this youDg and 
tender it is necessary to sow often. 

Lettuce should also be sown on the richest 
piece of ground available—a little of the Cab¬ 
bage variety (Tom Thnmb) as well as Cos ; the 
former will be sooner fit for use and precede the 
erect-growing kinds. Rows for the latter should 
be 15 inches apart; the others will do a third 
less. In sowing, the best method is to drop the 
seeds, half a dozen together, in patches as re¬ 
quired to be grown: afterwards thin them out 
to a single plant. If the weather be mild, a 
portion of those that have been wintered in 
frames should be planted out in a sunny, 
sheltered position ; but do not risk the whole, as 
the weather after this time is sometimes so severe 
as to seriously affect them, especially after a 
winter like the present, when every kind of 
vegetation has been kept continuously soft and 
growing. Take them up carefully with a trowel, 
so as to preserve the roots as far as possible from 
inj ury. Give some water as soon as planted, and 
if the days be sunny or the nights cold, place a 
small flower-pot over each plant for a few days, 
but not pressed down so closely as to exclude 
the light. 

Guoumbers. —Sow seeds and strike cuttings 
for succession in frames, and keep a supply of 
warm oompost for earthing up plants which 
were turned out last month as soon as the roots 
begin to show on the surface. Attend to linings 
round pits and frames before the heat is spent 
Keep up a good supply of fermenting material 
for this purpose, and turn the back and front 
linings alternately. Cover well with dry mats 
at night, and leave a little air on until they are 
removed at daylight. 

Broccoli. —A sowing should now be made 
of Broccoli for autumn and winter nse ; it is 
better to sow a little now and again later or 
It frequently happens that,in a very mild winter, 
the plants intended for late nse come in earlier 
than they are wanted, leaving a blank which 
the second sowing will fill up. The followirc 
kinds will afford a succession: Backhouse 




March 1 , 1884 .] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


!>95 


White, Snow's Winter White, and Williams’ 
Alexandra ; these, with Waloheren and Autumn 
Giant Cauliflower, which two latter, with good 
management, will keep good till Christmas, will 
be found to last until late in the spring. 

11053 —Tomatoes in frames—Toma¬ 
toes can bs grown very satisfactorily in an 
ordinary frame. In the first place, make a tem¬ 
porary trellis, which should be at least one foot 
below the under side of the sash. A very simple 
trellis, and one that will serve its purpose quite 
well, can be easily made by driving a post into 
the ground at each corner of the frame; to these 
fasten a rail top and bottom. To these rails can 
be naiied lengths of wire netting, Ac. But a 
much Bimpler and more satisfactory plan is to 
nail laths at intervals of about 6 inches to the 
rails. This forms a capital trellis, and one 
which can easily be taken down when the frame 
is needed for other purposes. If the plants are 
to be grown in pots, they should be plunged to 
the rim. This keeps the roots cool and moist, 
and is a great saving in watering. A better 
plan would be to take out a hole and fill it up 
with some good fresh loam and plant the Toma¬ 
toes in this. The trouble in connection with 
them would be thus reduced to a minimum, and 
the results would be more satisfactory. Toma¬ 
toes can easily be grown in a lean-to house by 
training them up the back wall, provided they 
get plenty of light and air, as they object to 
being kept too close and warm.— Caledonian. 

-The Tomato is an upright growing 

plant, and might not do well pegged to the 
ground like Cucumbers. They do well in pots, 
and trained either to the walls or rafters of a 
house. They would succeed well against the 
back wall of a lean-to.—J. D. E. 


ROSES. 

11001— Manure for Roses. —If you want 
to apply a manure as a topdressing which will 
reach the roots of Boses in a short time, you 
must be guided by the solubility of the manure 
in water. Coarse bone dust is (till decomposed) 
insoluble; I should not, therefore, apply it as a 
surface dressing, but, if incorporated with the 
soil, it is perhaps the most permanent of all 
manures, giviog off phosphates slowly for years, 
Blood is more suitable, beiDg more readily 
soluble, and a great stimulant. The blood and 
bone dust manure that is so popular is perhaps 
more decomposed. It certainly is a valuable 
manure, and seems to show its effect in a few 
weeks. Superphosphate of lime is a grand 
manure for Roses; it is made by dissolving 
bones in sulphuric acid. As your soil is rich, I 
should be inclined to apply nitrate of soda, 
which, beyond being a good manure in itself, 
acts as a flux, enabling the roots to take up 
nutrition from the soil. Either nitrate of soda 
or soot show their effects on plants more quickly 
than any manure I know. I cannot fix the pre¬ 
cise time, as so much depends on the weather, 
the state of growth the Roses are in, Ac. Never 
apply very soluble, stimnlatirg manures during 
the resting period — J. W. 


THE VILLA GARDEN. 
(Continued from page 566). 


succeed very well if grown ou stages, and every¬ 
thing should be as near the glass as possible, 
for the ripening process so necessary for the 
production of flowers cannot be carried on with¬ 
out abundant light. 

Soil and Potting. 

All stove plants will grow in peat and sand, 
but most of the soft, rapid growing things will 
be improved by having a proportion of loam—a 
large proportion I might have said. It steadies 
them, builds them up more firmly, and they 
flower better for it, and the more fibre the soil 
contains the better. Therefore, both peat and 
loam should be used before the fibre decays, 
say within six or nine months after being placed 
in a heap Wherever a good collection of plants 
are kept, and if it is wished to keep them up lo 
the mark, a good stock of both peat and loam 
must be laid in annually, and it is very short¬ 
sighted policy to do this grudgingly, for they 
form the basis of all good plant culture. 
The fibre in the soil has a beneficial 
mechanical action betides the food which, 
in its slow decay, is supplied to the 
plants just as they need it. The soil, after the 
fibre has decayed, may be as rich, but the plants 
will not do so well in it. Everything in con¬ 
nection with plant growing must be clean and 
sweet; the pots, if not new, mast be well 
cleaned with a hard brush; the drainage materials 
must also be free from all impurities, and, if 
needful, they also should be washed. If there 
is any earthy or deleterious matter among the 
sand, washing will remove it. These are little 
thiDgs, but they have an important bearing 
upon successful work. The general potting of 
stove plants will take place in the spring, usu¬ 
ally in February or March, as this is the time 
when most things begin to waken into new life 
Young growing specimens will, of coarse, need 
shifting on during summer, but for the most 
part the repotting of large plants will take 
place in spring. Very many of the bright- 
flowered soft plants, snch as the Jnsticias, Poin- 
settias, Bouvardias, Ac, tray be rooted from 
cuttings in spring and grown to a flowering 
size in one season, but the cream of stove- 
flowering plants, the Allamandas, the Dipla- 
denias, the Ixoras, Bougainvilleas, Cleroden- 
drons, Francisceas, Gardenias, and Imantophyl- 
lums are things of slow er growth, which, when 
they attain specimen size, are va uable ; there¬ 
fore, every pains she uld be taken to keep them 
in health, because w hen once a large specimen 
of either of the plants named above gets cut of 
health, it is difficult to recover it. It is a com¬ 
mon practice to give most of the plants named 
above root warmth by plunging them in the tan 
bed. It is true root warmth corresponding to 
the temperature applied to the branches is a 
necessity, but a plant standing on a stage in a 
heated honse is relatively in a right condition 
for making healthy growth. I grant that bottom 
heat does give a fillip to growth, in the same 
way as a slimnlant in the morning may im 
part for a short time a little extra haste to the 
movements of a man, but results in no perma¬ 
nent good The best flowered Allamandas, 
Dipladenias, and Clerodendrons I ever Baw were 
standing on abroad shelf over, but not touching, 
the hot-water pipes, the branches being trained 
to the wires under the roof. Light to this class 
of plaDt is more essential than bottom-heat. In 
the potting, as far as possible all exhausted soil 
should be removed, the drainage ample to 
carry off surplus water, and the soil, which must 
be rough and fibrous, should be rammed in 
firmly. Any little pruning that may be neces¬ 
sary, such as cutting back unripe shoots or 
thinning weakly ones to concentrate the strength 
upon fewer outlets, should be done now. The 
Bougainvillea should be spnrrrd hardback; few 
people prune these enough, and that is the i eason 
why the flowers are so thin. I have an old 
plant of B. glabra growing in a pic, and every 
spring, about February, after it has done bloom¬ 
ing, I cut it back to the old thick branches, just 
as one would spur in aVine. Immediately it bursts 
forlh in the wildest luxuriance. Shoots 5 feet 
or G feet long are developed in a very short time, 
from these laterals spring, and both main shoots 
and laterals are in the summer and autumn ore 
mass of flowers. In pruning all this class of 
plants, cat well into ripened wood. Expose the 
young shoots to all the light possible by train- 


The Plant Stove. 

Many of the beautiful old flowering stove plants 
have disappeared to make room for foliaged 
plants, in accordance with a prevailing fashion. 

Doubtless the fashion will change again, and 
the flowering plants will come into favour. 

There is hardly a more beautiful sight than a 
stove filled with flowering plants in winter, for 
without naming Orchids (which will be referred 
to separately), there are numbers of plants 
which, in a night temperature of 60° or 05°, will 
produce a brilliant display. The best kind of 
house for stove plants is a span or half-span 
roof, not too lofty, but otherwise it may be as 
roomy as means and circumstances will permit. 

If convenient, it may have a pit in the centre 
filled with tan or leaves ; not that I wish to lay 
much stress on bottom heat, but the genial at¬ 
mosphere which is caused by fermenting materi¬ 
als, if the fermentation be in a mild form, is bene¬ 
ficial. The pots need not be plunged in the bed, 
or at least only sufficient to steady them. But ing near the glass without any shade, and there 
most of the best flowering stove plants will need be no fear as to blossoms. 


Roof Climbers and Wall Plants. 

If the honse is lofty enough, a few creepers 
may be permitted to trail over and about, but 
they must not be allowed to grow too dense, or 
the plants beneath will suffer; in point of fact, 
if we want to grow really first-class specimens, 
the roof climbers must be trained very thinly, 
bat there may always be space found for one 
or two choice thiDgs, snch as the scarlet Passion 
Flower (Passiflora princeps), Stephanotis flcri- 
bnnda, Jasminum giacillimum, Thunbergia Har- 
risi, Pergularia odoratissima, and one of the 
Allamandas. Handsome foliage may be had by 
planting Cissns discolor or C. porpbyrophylla. 
Where the stove is a lean-to, the back wall 
should be covered with creeping plants, either 
planted out in a narrow border or else grown in 
pots, but the former way is the best, as the 
plants, having more root room, attain a better 
development. I have seen the night-blooming 
Cerens (C. grandiflora) flower well trained near 
the glass on the back wall of a stove. Bougain¬ 
villea glabra flowers well at the top, or if in a very 
light bouse, as low down as the wood ripens. 
Rondeletia speciosa major makes a good wall 
plant. The Hibiscus in several forms will cover 
a large space in a comparatively short time; the 
variegated variety,Cooperi.isa rapid growtrwhen 
ODce fairly established, and has a chaste appear¬ 
ance; its large single crimson flowers, too. are 
showy. One or two of the Ficuses, snch as bar- 
bata and lepens, may be used to cover daik 
corners, and a very useful amount of bright 
colour, as well as blooms for cutting, may be ob¬ 
tained by planting Euphorbia fnlgens in a warm 
house in a light rich border. 

Basket Plants. 

These will find a place in some part of the 
house. If it be lofty, the baskets may barg 
over the path, as then the drip from them when 
watered will not injure anything beneath. 
Among other things that are useful for filling 
baskets may be named Achimenes (various) ; 
,-Eschynanthus in several kinds are handsome 
pendent plants of a permanent nature. Aga- 
lmyla Staininea.Cissus discolor.and Epiphyllums 
do well in baskets, and are not much trouble to 
keep in health. Hoya bella is a very elegant 
little basket plant, should be grown in rough peat 
and watered carefully. The little elegaLt 
trailer, Manettia bicolor, dees well in a basket, 
and its flowers are more numerous when in the 
full light. Panicum variegalum Is a very desi¬ 
rable Indian Grass to have in quantity to drape 
the base of the baskets, using another plant to 
fill in the centTe. The Panicum has a handsome 
drooping variegated growth. Russelia juncea is 
an old plant with veiy elegant habit, and it 
succeeds well in a basket. The stove aqua¬ 
tics form an interesting addition to the stove, 
even when grown on a small scale. A very small 
tank at one end, or in a corner, will suffice for an 
interesting group of Water Lilies, of which 
Nympbsea eoerulea (blue Water Lily), oyanea, 
devoniana, and rubra maybe cited as suitable 
species. I have seen them successfully grown 
in a No. 1 pot placed in a corner of the stove, 
surrounded by a mound of rockwork covered 
with creepers. The holes in the bottom of the 
pot had been securely stopped ; some rough loam 
and peat had been placed in the bottom, and 
the Lilies planted therein. The Sacred Bean 
(Nelumbium speciosnm), the Lattia leaf plant 
(Ouvirandrafencstralis), and other aquatics may 
be grown if there is space. 

Resting Plants. 

Though there is no positive or total rest for 
anything in this world, there must be a partial 
cessation from active work to ghe the plant 
time to gather up its forces for a renewed effort. 
Thus the Allamandas, Clerodendrons, and all 
that class of plants, when exhausted from flower¬ 
ing, must be allowed to go to rest by withholding 
water and lowering the temperature. The 
Eucharis, Gesneria, Gloxinia, Imantopbyllnm, 
and others of a like nature, will not flower 
effectively if rest be withheld. It is true the 
evergreen section must not be dried off in the 
same manner as is customary with those which 
cast off all their foliage and start anew from the 
base, but rest they all must have. Even those 
plants such as the Poinsettia, Euphorbia fulgene, 
Justicia, Scutellaria, Tbyrsacanlhus, Ac., which 
can be grown into flowering size from cuttings 
in a few months, flower all the better for under¬ 
going a resting process in a lower temperature 
after the growth is made, before the stimulus of 


Google 



50(5 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[March I, 1884 


extra warmth is applied to bring out their blos¬ 
soms. This shows how much there is to learn 
about the life history and the habits of growth 
of every plant we cultivate, and how impossible 
it is to do more then generalise within the 
limits of a small treatise. E. HOBDAY. 


ANSWERS TO QUERIES. 


(miscellaneous) 

11011.— Compost for potting—Fuchsias, 
Geraniums, and such-litre greenhouse plants are 
so easily grown, that aDy detailed instructions 
are almost superfluous. As you have rotted 
turf, that would be the staple material, leaf- 
mould should be added, and some rotted stable 
manure. You can easily break up the lumps, 
by using a cinder sieve. It is a good time now 
to repot the Fuchsias : the Geraniums also may 
be repotted now, but it is better to pot them in 
October. As a rule, young plants may be re¬ 
potted whenever they require it. If your loam 
j < heavy, some sand should be added to it, 

J. D. E. 

- For repotting plants of nearly all kinds, 

I take the soil from underneath the grass along¬ 
side tbe high road. I have tried many sorts, 
but find that the best —A SON OF Adam. 


11050.—Crub3 in new soil.—Evidently 
the destruction is caused by the grubs which you 
find in the soil. Gas lime would kill them, but 
it would also kill the plants. It can only be used 
on fallow ground. I judge the ground is what 
gardeners call the leather-coated grub. If so, it 
feeds at night. You will find them by the aid 
of a good lamp. Boot laid round the roots of 
the plants might be useful.—J. D E. 

11089 —Peas and mloe.—Take a flower¬ 
pot and cork up the bottom hole. Then about 
three parts fill it with Peas, and sprinkle three 
or four teaspoonfulls of King's carbolic dressing 
well over them. Stir up with a stick until 
they are thoroughly coated with the dressing. 
Some sand or powdered lime mixed with them 
makes the process of sowing more easy. Mice 
will not go near them.—J. D. E. 

10931. — Southernwood. — Cut back 
the shoots of the Southernwood to withiD, say, 
half an inch of the branches towards the close 
of each year. You will get strong bushy plants, 
well-rounded, and not likely to split with every 
breeze of wind. Under this treatment I find 
that the bushes not only live longer, but im¬ 
prove with each successive cutting.—J. S. 

10971 .—Pelargoniums —I have kept fifteen Pelar¬ 
goniums several years without glasshouses. I keep 
them in a moderately dry cold ro >m with plenty of air, 
but free from frost, and do not give them much water. I 
cut them back and repot them once a year, and they are 
covered with bloom about June. lias “ J. D. K. tried 
this plan ?—A son OF Adam. 

i 1091.—Wire for Pea?—Strong laths 4 feet long, 
wove through the netting 3 feet apart, and put 9 inch©* 
or 10 inches Into the ground each side of a row answers 
well for Peas of the dwarf kind. After you have gathered 
the crops, pull up laths with the netting and keep under 
cover, and they will last for years.-J. H. B. 

liC93.-Indelible ink—Rub the zinc labels with 
sand i ap?r, and write upon them with an ordinary pen 
dipped in a solution of acetate of copper and sal amra> 
nlac,which the druggist will make up for you.—T elling- 
ton Manor. 

_Take 30 parts of verdigris, 30 of sal-ammoniac. 8 

of lamp black, 8 of gum arable. and 800 of water ; dis- 
s live the j:uin in water, and pour it over the other ingre¬ 
dients. well mixed and reduced to powder. A quill pen 
should be used for writing. —R. J. 8. 

_The following is a recipe that was given to mo 

and which 1 always use—blue stone dissolved in water. 
I get a bit about the size of a nutmeg, put it into a glass 
ink bottle, cover it with water, and let it stand for a 
day or so. I should Ike to know If “ Reldnae ” haB tried 
it. I forgot to say that I find new zinc better than old. 
—Ink. 


11048 —Hyacinths in water.—Empty out the foul 
water and replace it at once with clean rain-water of 
■■me temperature as that poured away, attach a piece 
of lead wire to a pkee of wood charcoal, and put it into 
the glass. The charcoal will keep the water pure.— 
J. H. B. 

_There can be no reason why the water In one 

glass should become foetid while the other is not. Ex¬ 
cept that there may be decay iu the bulb charcoal 
placed in the water will be the means of keeping it from 
becoming offensive.—J. D. E. 

nose —Double Pyrethrums.-To obtain anything 
like a good succession of bloom of these you must grow 
seedlings Propagatod plants flower during the month 
of May and Jane. They might mve a lew stray blos¬ 
soms later in tho year, but nothing like a good head ol 
bloom.— J. DOPSIA9. 

110«5 — Cinerarias drooping — You have given 
■hem too much manure water. That Is doubtless the 
ctuse oi their falling. At this time of tho year water 
mint he Elven with caution ; and weak manure water 
In a clear state at each alternsto watering.—J. D. E. 


Google 


11060 —Spiraea palmata. — You did quite right 
with the plants if you want them to flower In pots. They 
die down to the ground In winter. It is a herbaoeous 
plant, and the time for it to start into growth has not 
yet arrived, unless you put it into heat.—J. D. K. 

11043. — Gladioli bulbfl.—You cannot prevent a 
large bulb of Gladiolus forming three small ones, but 
the three small ones are likely to give you good strong 
flower spikes. The largest bulbs do not always produce 
the best spikes.—J. D. E. 

11078 — Sparrows—Keitreli or sparrow-hawks, or 
cats will greatly assist to rid you of the raids of the 
sparrows, that is If your chickens aie protected by wire 
netting.—J. H. B. 

11067.— Lime and sluga.— The lime that has fallen 
to a powder would do to kill slugs. In fact that is the 
state in which it ought to be used. It Is not so lasting 
nor so effective as aoofc.—J. D. E. 

11067.—Worms in manure.—You must mix some 
soot with the leaf-mould and manure ; that will destroy 
the worms, and it is also a valuable Biimulant for most 
plants —J. D. E. 

11074.—Passion flowers not blooming—Hardy 
Passion flowers will only bloom against a southern wall. 
—A. N. 


Malmaison Carnations.— Will someone kindly 
tell me where I can procure tbe Bhallow flower pots for 
growing these Carnations in that were mentioned in 
Gardening Illustrated of January 19?—H. L. E. 
[From any good pottery. Try Mr. Mathews, Weston-super- 
Mare ) 

TelUngton Manor.— They are very useful for pro¬ 
tecting plants in spring, but they are not so good as 
well-made frames, and certainly are not good substitutes 
for greenhouses. 

Ros*.— At any good hardy plant nursery.- E. Mar¬ 

shall.— From any of the florists who advertise in our 
columns. 

Mrs. Loch. —You will find the address of tho British 
Coke Company In our advertisement columns. 

Names of planta.— Constant Reader.— 1 Masde- 
vail la tovareniis ; 2, Odontoglossum Cervantesi; 3, On- 

iridium Forbesi; 4, O. unguicalatum.- Cottager.— Send 

a twig, or wait until it flowera.— Brixton Amateur.— Sela- 
giu'.lia cteaia — W. P., York.— Apparently Fuchsia cordi- 

folia.- Dublin.—\, Send when in flower; 2. Begonia 

nitlda.- Tidmarsh. —Acacia pubescens.-IF. Arding. 

—Anemone stellata.- S. S. J.—Species of Acacia.- 

W. F.— Species of Phyllocactus.- Inquirer.—I, I resine 

Herbsti; 2, Crassula Sieboldi variegata • 3, Chrysanthe¬ 
mum Hallerl; 4, Cytisos raeemoeus. We name but four 
plants at one time. 


QUERIES 


Rules for Correspondents. —A U communica 
Hons Jor insertion should be clearly and concisely written 
on one side qf the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR. 
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name 
and address qf the sender u required, in addition to any 
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries 
should alu>at/8 bear the number and title qf the curry 
answered. When more than one query is sent each should 
be on a separate piece qf paper. Owing to the necessity qf 
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the 
day qf publication , it is not possible to insert queries and 
communications the teeek they are received. Queries not 
answered should be sent to us again. 

Naming plants. — Four plants, fruits, or flowers only 
can be named at one time, and this only when good 
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name 
varieties of florists’ flotcers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, 
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a 
specialist who has the means qf comparison at hand. Any 
communication respecting plants or flowers sent to name 
should always accompany the parcel. 

11132.—Fish as manure.— I can obtain with 
little trouble a considerable quantity of fish cleanings 
and oyster shells. ^Containing as the former do large 
quantities of phosphate and nitrogenous compounds, 
they muft be valuable as manure, i suppose the best 
way to fit them for use would be to mix them with earth 
or charred rubbish, but should be glad to know how long 
they should be kept before using, and for what crops the 
compost would be specially suitable. My soil is a stiff 
clay loam, containing naturally no lime; would it be 
better to bury the oyster shells as they are, or calcine 
them on the rubbish Are.— Tomato. 

11133.—Palms.—I bave a large number of fan¬ 
leaved Palma distributed through my living-rooms. 
They have done well since November, but they are now 
rapidly dying off. What treatment is necessary to their 
successful cultivation under the conditions named? 
Should they be repotted? If so, in what soil? 
Should they be occasionally placed out-of-doors on flue 
days?—A non. 

11184.-Stove plants in vinery. -I want to know 
what stove plants I could keep in an early vinery from 
December 1 to April. My vinery is started early In 
January. Or could I, by doing away with some of the 
vines, use it as a hothouse entirely ; also, what climbers 
or plants are best to plant agninstback of wall of vinery ? 
No stage in centre.—N emo. 

11136.—Fruit growing in California.—Perhaps 
amongst the numerous readers of Gardbnino there are 
some who have been to California. I am thinking of 
going out there fruit fanning—Oranges and Raisin 
Grapes - and any information as regards the best locali¬ 
ties, outfit—in fact, anything bearing on the subject— 
1 shall be most grateful for-A Pilgrim Father. 

11136.— Roe© leave© dropping oft.—A Marechal 
Niel planted lost October outside the house and brought 
in the same as a vine, lost all its leaves at once, but 
sprouted again beautifully in January. Now the leaves 
are all curling and dropping without any cause, as far as 
can be seen. Can anyone explain as to what is best to 
be done ? Do the roots want watering ? They are under 
gravel, and tho house Is a cool one.—O akleigh. 


11137—Law respecting fences.—I should be glad 
if any reader could inform me if there is any recognised 
rule or law with regard to the regulation of hedges and 
trees. On the south side of my garden the hedge is some 
20 feet high, and completely keeps out the noonday ran. 

I think the hedge belongs to my neighbonr, and he 
objects to my lowering it. Any information will oblige. 
—Perplexed. 

11138.—Variegated Ferns.—I am wishing to make 
a collection of Ferns, both stove and greenho lae, and 
want a complete list of all the kinds that have variegated 
foliage, like Pter's argyrea. I do not mr&n the gold and 
silver Ferns, but those with two distinct colours on 
their upper surface. Perhaps someone who makes this 
class of plants a speciality would help me.—C. H. B. 

11139.—Ants and earwigs.—Will anything pr* 
vent ants and earwigs from crawling up to an Apricot 
tree on a wall? I can never ripen the fruit owing to- 
their eating into it. Something might perhaps be done 
now before it blossoms, but whatever be done, must be 
above, below, and on both sides, or it will not be 
effectual.—Y. B. 

11140.—Timber trees with effective foliage — 
Can any reader tell me what timber trees I can plant 
which will have effective foliage In autumn ? Subsoil 
clay. They should be timber trees, as they are to replace 
Elms on glebe land. What is tbe scarlet Oak?— 
Ohlreit. 

11141.—Mushroom culture.—I shall be glad to 
learn, through Gardening, if diluted liqnid hone manure 
is more suitable than pure water for moistening manure 
heaps when too dry while preparing for making outdoor 
Mushroom ridges. The opinion of a practical Mushrooai 
grower will be welcome.-J. H. B. 

11142.— Agapanthus In rooms — I have three 
planta of Agapanthus umbellatus which I wish to grow for 
the present in a room with a large sunny window and a tire 
throughout the day, moving them into the garden when 
summer comes. Can I do this ? Any hints as to culture 
will be thankfully received.—W. E. 8. 

11143. — Double-yolked duck eggs —Win any 
reader of Gardening tell me why my ducks are 
continually laying double-yolked eggs? They are fed 
once a day on Indian corn and barley, are young, and 
have the run of a field in which there is a pool. — Salo¬ 
pian. 

11144.—Flowering the Euchaiis.-I have a very 
large potful of Eucharis amazonica, which flowered very 
freely in October and November, since when It has been 
kept marly dry ; how can I bring it into flower about 
May ? It has not lost its leaves, and I would prefer not to 
repot it.—N emo. 

li 146.-Climber for warm fernery.— My lean- 
to fernery faces north-west, with greenhouse tempera¬ 
ture. Will someone kindly recommend two or three 
climbers which will flower with little or no Bun?— 
Hants. 

11146 —Treatment of Ficuses.—What soil and 
treatment are best suited to these plants? I have several, 
but they all die off Is it because they have too much 
water ? They are kept In the hall and In living-rooms — 
Anon. 

11147.— Fertilisation of soils.— Can any reader in 
form me where I can find an account of a Mr. George 
Reid's experiments on cereals and the fertilisation of 
barren soils, conducted under the auspices of the late 
Emperor Napoleon III. ?—B. M. 

11148.—Peeony not flowering.—Some five [or six 
vears ago I bought two roots of white Froony ; it comes 
up strongly, but nover flowers, though close vo a red one 
which never fails to bloom well. Can I do anything to 
induce the white one* to do the same ?— M. J. 

11149.—Freeing Grass from Moea-My lawn has 
become so mossy that it is iniDossible »o use the mowing 
machine. Can any reader recommend me a cheap way 
of making it respectable? Our soil is of a sandy nature. 
T. 8. R. 

11160. -Hops as manure.— I have a quantity of 
hops which came out of Burton ale casts ; could I use 
them for manure, or what purpose could I put them to ? 
I have a greenhouse.—A ubert. 

11161 .—Maize for the flower garden —Would 
any reader kindly oblige with information upon the cul¬ 
tivation of Maize for the flower garden 7 Which is the 
better of the two, American or Indian 7—C. C. WHITE. 

11152.—Dwarf Carnations.—I find but little men¬ 
tion of dwarf Carnations; do they require stakes, and are 
the flowers as good as those of the taller variety ? Any 
further information will be esteemed.— Swansea. 

11163.—Dwarf Tomatoes.—Where and when can 
I procure seeds or plants of dwarf Tomatoes? What sized 
pots should be used? I propose to grow the plants under 
glass. What soil is best adapted for them ?—H. C. 

11164 —Frame Cucumbers.—What is considered 
the best variety of frame Cucumber for general culture, 
and likewise the best kind of Strawberry 7 —Young 
Gardener. 

11166.—Grass for shady place -Will any reader 
inform me if there is any grass seed that can be recom¬ 
mended to be sown on a plot of groand on which the sun 
never shines? -W. M. 

11156.—House for Roses.—What is the best form 
of house to build for growiag Tea and other delicate 
Roses—should it be a lean-to or not, and is it necessary 
to heat it ?—F. O. G. 

11157.— Mistletoe on Apple trees — Can yon 

E lease inform me if Mistletoe is considered Injurious or 
armless to Apple trees ?—P. B. 

11168 —Mushrooms without spawn.—Will a 
heap of horse manure produce Mushrooms without first 
being spawned 7 —Querist. 


Remedy for Insects. —Having bad con¬ 
siderable experience in the use of insecticides. 
I am quite satisfied that nicotine soap snrpasse* 
any other; I use it in the proportion of 3 ounces 
tol gallon water, warm, and have always found 
the black thrips thoroughly exterminated in one 



March I, 1884.] 


GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


597 


syringing. It also leaves the plants quite clean 
and glossy in appearance. 1 am speaking more 
particularly of Azaleas, Myrtles, &c. For vines 
I have recommended it to my neighbours, who 
in all cases have nsed it with Buccessfnl results. 
I should recommend it in all instances for vines 
at the strength of 6 ounces to 8 ounces to 1 gallon 
of warm water.—H. H. 


BEES. 

SEASONABLE NOTES. 

Stocks will now in many cases be growing very 
light in stores as well as decreasing in popula¬ 
tion, although they may a short time since have 
appeared heavy and well to do. This arises from 
increased consumption of stores as spring draws 
on, and, on account of scantiness of income, 
insufficient brood being reared to keep pace 
with the decrease of population consequent on 
the dying off of the old bees. 

General management. — Feeding should 
now begin with colonies that are short of stores, 
having through the mildness of the past 
winter consumed the food that should have 
carried them well into April. In feeding needy 
stocks now, the feeder should be placed on the 
hive at night and removed in the morning, for 
if feeding takes place in the daytime, unnatural 
excitement is kept up, which is not well so soon 
in the season. Hives should now be examined 
and their exact condition as to stores, brood, 
presence of queen, Ac., ascertained. To 
thoroughly do so it is best to remove the hive 
and floor-board from the stand, and transfer 
bars of comb and bees to a fresh hive placed 
upon the old stand; as each comb is removed 
the queen can be looked for. If, after careful 
examination, the stock is found to be queenless, 
it Bhonld be united to a colony having a fertile 
queen. It is a stroke of good management to 
equalise stocks as breeding increases, by giving 
weak colonies frames of brood from stronger 
ones, and putting frames of comb foundation 
in place of the brood comb3 removed. Thus in 
a few weeks weak colonies can be made up, and 
enabled to take full advantage of the first honey 
flow. A weak hive can also be made strong by 
enlarging the brood nest. A comb containing 
a small quantity of brood is put into the place 
occupied by a comb containing much, or a frame 
of empty comb is placed in the centre of the 
brood nest, the brood nest being contracted by 
the division boards, so as to crowd the bees into 
small space. If this be accompanied with gentle 
feeding, and the gradual enlargement of the 
brood nest as the bees increase in numbers, the 
colony is stimulated to raise at this season much 
more brood than they would if left to them¬ 
selves. Frequently the inoome derived from 
early spring flowers is sufficient to carry the 
bees on in safety. When, however, the state of 
the weather precludes full advantage being 
taken of nature's offerings, assistance must be 
given with artificial food in proportion to the 
condition of each colony. 

Robhers. —Great care should be taken in 
feeding not to let there be any syrup spilled 
about the outside of the hive, or bees of other 
hives will be attracted, and robbing and fight- 
ing the result. When a hive is under Biege, a 
great deal of excitement about the entrance is 
observed, and the robbers are seen flying 
rapidly round the hive and hovering in front of 
the entrance before alighting, and on doing so 
are seized upon by the attacked bees, who use 
their utmost endeavours to prevent their entry 
into the hive, and numbers of dead and dying 
bees are seen on the ground in front of the hive. 
Colonies weak in numbers generally suffer most 
from pillage; a strong stock will sometimes 
attack and destroy several weak ones and trans¬ 
fer all the stores to their own hive. When a hive 
is found to be attacked by robbers, the entrance 
must be contracted so that one bee only can 
enter at a time. This will enable the inmates 
the better to defend themselves, and the attack 
—if it has not been going on long, will, in all 
probability, be put a stop to, but if this be not 
successful, the entrance must be closed entirely 
till night, taking care to provide ample ventila¬ 
tion meanwhile. 

Straw hives. —Examination should now be 
made to ascertain the condition of straw hives, 
which may be done by turning them up after 
giving a little smoke at the entrance in order to 
drive the bees up amongst tl^ combs. Where 

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found to be short of stores they should be fed 
with a bottle feeder placed over the crown hole. 
All floor boards should be scraped and cleaned, 
and when found to be at all damp, clean dry 
boards should be substituted, and larger and 
more substantial coverings provided. All hives 
should now be kept as warm as possible to ob¬ 
viate any chance of the brood becoming chilled 
by the cold easterly winds we usually have in 
the early spring. Binding hay-bands round 
straw hives is a great protection from cold. 

Boxworth. S. S. G. 


Sugar cake for bee3.— Wanted, full and plain 
directions for making sugar cake for bees, how to make 
it stiff enough without becoming grainy.—R. 


POULTRY. 


CHICKENS. 

It is not at all too early to think about hatching 
such hardy sorts as Brahmas, Cochins, Plymouth 
Kocks, Dominiques, Scotch Greys, and a few 
more, especially as the weather remains mild 
and open. The first item to be seen to is the 
stock. To ensure strong healthy chicken the 
parents must be likewise, and in full vigour. 
We always recommend pulletsmated with a two- 
year old cock not related to each other. Suffi¬ 
cient attention to the proper selection of stock 
birds cannot be over-rated where strong healthy 
chicken be desired, and it is but time and money 
thrown away to endeavour to successfully rear 
early hatched chicken except from good and 
judiciously mated stock birds. In too many in¬ 
stances the old strain is bred from year after 
year, mated indiscriminately, without importing 
any fresh blood or weeding out any which ap¬ 
pear small, unprolific, or otherwise objectionable. 
The consequence is that the flock slowly but 
surely degenerates. Deformities and want of 
size are sure to follow this system, while disease 
creeps in unopposed. Nothing is easier than to 
exchange a cockerel or two every season with 
some neighbouring poultry keeper, or even to 
buy them, as they are generally to be bought at 
a little over killing price in the autumn, valuable 
fancy specimens of course excepted. Intending 
breeders,should remember that during winter 
and early spring fewer hens should be allowed 
to each cock in order to ensure large per cent- 
ages of fertile eggs. With Brahmas, Cochins, 
aud such like, four to one is quite enough. Eggs 
intended for hatching purposes should be 
gathered up from the nest as soon as possible 
after having been laid, in order to prevent their 
becoming soiled and greasy, which often 
seriously interferes with the successful egress of 
the chicken from the shell. Nothing is so good 
for storing the eggs as a board pierced with 
holes, in which the eggs are to be placed large 
end downwards. This position is now generally 
acknowledged to be the best for hatching pur¬ 
poses, as it prevents the air-bubble from spread¬ 
ing, which greatly injures the vitality of the egg. 
As regards the length of time which sitting 
eggs may be kept without injury, ten days or a 
fortnight is not too long, although long enongb, 
but they have been known to keep unimpaired 
for three weeks or more. Place the store board 
containing the eggs in a clean, dry, and mode¬ 
rately warm position. The next item to be 
thought of is the broody hen, and here early 
hatched pullets are again useful, as unless a hen, 
has been laying during the winter, of course it 
is impossible for her to get broody during that 
time. Do not be afraid of sitting young hens, 
they make just as good mothers as older birds. 
When the hen is observed to be broody it is best 
to let her sit on her accustomed nest for a day or 
two until the desire is firmly established. In 
the meantime, the nest should be made in some 
secluded part, and if possible in a separate 
building from the remainder of the birds. At 
this time of year plenty of soft stTaw must be 
allowed. A nest is always best made upon the 
bare ground, and a few loose bricks placed 
around is sufficient to keep the straw together. 
To this, after placing the eggs therein, the 
broody hen must be removed. This is best 
done at night, and although some hens 
often prove very obstinate, yet most will be 
found in the morning quietly sitting in the 
fresh nest. But Borne will take to no other nest 
than their own, and had better be left alone. In 
selecting eggs for sitting, medium size ones are 
the best, while very large or very small ones 
must be discarded, likewise those possessing 


any deformities in shape. As regards the oft 
mooted theory of distinguishing the sex of the 
egg before the chick is hatched, we maintain it 
is impossible. The hen dnring the process of 
incubation should be fed regularly and supplied 
with clean water ; in fact, it is best always to 
have both before her. At the end of eight days 
the eggs may be examined to test their fertility, 
the best plan is cut a hole the shape of an egg, 
only a little smaller, in a piece of cardboard 
about six inches square. Into this thrust the 
egg and hold before a bright light. Clear, and 
consequently unfertile, eggs will be detected in 
a moment and may be thrown away, while those 
presenting a dark cloudy appearance should be 
replaced under the hen, and will, bar accidents, 
produce chickens. It is a good plan to sit two 
hens at the same time, so that after the ex¬ 
amination and the removal of any clear eggs, 
the whole may, if not too many in number, be 
placed under one hen, and a fresh batch given 
to the other. If during the time of incubation 
the eggs become foaled by breakage or other¬ 
wise, the others must be carefully washed in lake 
warm water, and replaced under the hen, in a 
fresh clean nest, as soon as possible. As regards 
moistening the eggs, we do not advise it in 
winter time, unless the atmosphere be very dry, 
when, dating the last seven or eight days, a little 
warm water should be poured round about the 
nest and a little sprinkled over the eggs. Under 
favourable circumstances hatching commences 
on the evening of the twenty second day. 

Andalusian. 


Liver disease. —This disease begins with 
a closely confined-space and sloppy food, and 
when once firmly established is incurable. The 
first appearance is generally a wasting away of 
the flesh, drooping comb, and a sickly, yellowish 
look; droppings have an unhealthy appearance, 
and are not of the usual quantity ; the appetite 
varies; some days the bird will eat as well as 
ever, the next it will not taste any kind of food, 
bnt it always shows a great desire for water. 
To those who wish to treat this disease—and in 
cases where the bird is valuable and has not been 
ill long it may be advisable to do so—we advise 
the administration of a grain of calomel every 
other day; feed on soft food, given in a crumbly 
state, which we have so often mentioned; re¬ 
move the water dish after the fowl has drunk in 
moderation, and give a little grass cut down in 
small shreds with scissors, or fresh vegetables. 
Take care the vegetables are not stale, and do 
not let any lie about the run to decay there. 
Warmth is essential, and we need not add 
cleanliness as well. Care in feeding and housing 
will often do much where the attack is slight. 
Cochins and Brahmas are most subject to liver 
disease, and often die suddenly from the rup¬ 
ture of a large blood vessel in the neighbourhood 
of the liver. The oavity of the bowels will be 
found full of blood, the liver very soft and 
easily broken down, and most probably pieces of 
cheesy matter in its substanoe varying in size 
from a millet seed to a horsebean.—P. 

Feather-eating. —This vice, disease, or 
whatever it may be called, is Beldom or ever 
found where fowls are kept in a natural state. 
Feather-eaters are not to ba found where the 
birds have plenty of exercise and green food. 
The closely confined run, where birds are fed as 
a cow in a stall, and the meat pnt down in a 
trough, and the fowls have not to scrape and look 
for it, is the abode of feather-eaters. There is 
nodonbtof this, for about a farmjard where 
fowls have full liberty this vice is never seen; 
and here we may remark that although some 
hens may be seen going about during summer 
almost bare, this does not result from feather- 
eating, but from mange or loss of feathers, which 
we will treat of presently. This bad habit is 
often contracted in chickenhood, and when once 
fairly begun it is scarcely possible to cure them 
of it. Dosing them with medicine is of little 
use. Give the birds more exercise, plenty of 
green food, and clean cold water, and if this 
does not succeed kill the offending one. When 
one is discovered feather eating, have her re¬ 
moved at once, or the others will also form the 
bad habit. Cocks, as a rule, are seldom given to 
feather-eating, but will often stand still and let 
the hens strip them. Spanish are the most sub¬ 
ject to this disgusting habit, and we believe the 
French breeds are also very much addicted to 
it.—P. , 



GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 


[AI ARC'H 1 1884. 



Leg weakness— Cockerels of such breeds 
as the Brahma or Cochin are very much troubled 
with leg weakness, which first makes itself appar¬ 
ent by the birds sitting or squatting down on the 
ground. It generally happens when the bird is 
from four to six months old. No medicine is 
required. Feed liberally on good sound food, 
and give amongst their soft food in the morning a 
good quantity of bone dust, and when the bird 
^rowi older and stronger the weakness will wear 
off. The cause is the birds out-growing their 
sti ength and a deficiency of bony matter. The 
bone-dust is a capital bone-foiming material, 
and should be in the hands of every breeder of 
poultry. Gout and Rheumatism. —Old birds are 
generally the sufferers from these diseases. The 
first symptoms are a swelling of the joints at the 
hocks and contraction of the toes. The bird loses 
the use of its legs, and rests the weight of its 
body on the first joint of the leg, is unable to go 
about, and if he does so, totters a few steps and 
then squats again. He will eat well, although 
not able to get about, and will even sit and 
crow all day without moving from the spot. If 
taken when first noticed Ufere is a chance of 
care, but if the disease has oeen allowed to run 
for some time there is no hope. On the first 
symptoms appearing, remove the bird to a warm 
house, bathe the legs in warm water, tying them 
them up afterwards with flannel: feed on soft 
food, amongst which put a good quantity of 
cayenne pepper; give cooked meat in moderation, 
and attend to the warmth of the patient. Only 
heat and careful attention to the feeding will 
bring back the use of the limbs.—P. 

Broody hens. — H. Gee — We are most de¬ 
cidedly of the opinion that the produce of a 
Houdan cock and white Leghorn hens would go 
broody occasionally, although not so frequently 
as many other kinds. If two non-sitting varieties 
be crossed, the produce will, with very rare ex¬ 
captions, prove sitters, therefore we cannot re¬ 
commend cross-bred fowl if you object to their 
becoming broody. Among the pure-bred 
varieties which never desire to sit, are the fol¬ 
lowing :—Leghorns, Andalusians, Polish, Ham- 
burghs (all fiue varieties), Spanish, Houdaos, 
Minorcas, Sultans, and one or two more. We 
should say the cross mentioned (Houdan-Leg- 
horn) would prove a very good one for laying as 
well as moderate table fowl.— Andalusian. 

Keeping poultry. — I would advise 
“ J. M. <J.” to keep Hamburgh fowls, which are 
as good as any for lading purposes, and although 
their eggs are small they are exceedingly rich. 
The nature of the run will suit them admirably, 
us they dislike confinement, and pick up a con¬ 
siderable amount of food when they have a 
good place for wandering. I have kept the 
golden pencilled for some years on a similar 
run, and have no wish to change. They are, 
however, non-sitters; therefore, it is necessary 
to have a brood hen or two of a different sort. 
My pullets lay at six mouths old, consequently, 
if hatched about March or April, they commence 
laying about the same time the old hens are 
moulting. I find one cock with from twelve to 
s : xteen hens do exceedingly well. My fowls 
are fed early in the morning on soft food 
(birleymeal with scraps occasionally) Spratt's 
food at mid-day, and before going to roost with 
corn, wheat, barley, or buckwheat, but mode¬ 
rately only. If kept too well it interferes with 
laying. A change of food is good for them, but 
do not mix it, otherwise they pick out what they 
prefer and waste the rest. Maize is too fatten¬ 
ing. I do not keep ducks, but suppose there 
could be no objection to them in the same house 
with the fowls. —G. F. C. 


BIRDS. 

Food for young canaries.— A pair of 
Norwich canaries that I had in 1883 reared suc¬ 
cessfully five nests of young ones. Having 
plenty of eggs from my own fowls, I fed them 
on eggs boiled hard. Without removing the shell, 
I cut the egg through the middle, and gave them 
half at a time in an eggoup. They had nothing 
else, except mixed seed, canary, rape, and millet. 
If this is too expensive, chop a third part of an 
egg boiled bard very small, and then take a 
piece of stale bread or sponge cake, and rub it 
between the hands, letting it fall upon the 
chopped egg ; then mix both well together. Don’t 
use more bread than will leave the food coloured 
with the egg, and fairly rich. I have found this 

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answer very well, and keep sweet from 7 a.m. 
to 7 p m. Some years ago I tried soaked bread 
and egg mixed together unsuccessfully.— 
Floreat Rugb^ea. 

Goldfinch not singing. — Caroline .—The 
bird, no doubt, has caught cold after moulting. 
Try some flax seed and maw seed, hard boiled 
egg, and white bread which has had hot water 
poured upon it, and has been pressed as dry as 
can conveniently be done. I have kept birds for 
years, and found the goldfinch hard to cure when 
thus attacked. Give plenty of green food. 
Thistle, Groundsel, Chickweed, Plantain-heads, 
and, if possible, Thistle-heads and Knapweed- 
heads. Keep in a cheerful place.—A. Lono. 

Keeping canaries.— Austin — Keep the 
birds in a warm, light room, near a window if 
possible. If the mate you mean to give the hen 
has not had any companion, it would be better 
to put the two cages close together, and let the 
birds make acquaintance through tbe wires, as 
sometimes they fight, and are killed. They 
should build in April with moss and down, which 
is put into the cage. A small square box is 
fastened to the wires for them to build in.—A. 
Long. 

Training parrakeet.— Ihaveasmall ring¬ 
necked parrakeet, a young bird, and should be 
grateful for hints as to feeding, taming, and 
teaching it to talk, is sand the best thing for 
the bottom of the cage 7 The bird has a habit 
of bringing up its food—hemp and canary seed 
—half masticated, then eating it again. Is this 
a habit of parrakeet. 7 — 0. L. A. 

Canary without feathers.—Would some reader 
tell me what to do with my canary ? It sings nicety, 
but It has scarcely a feather on Its body; it is very 
lively; it is fed with canary and hemp seed.—C laka. 


AQUARIA. 

Having read many communications in Garden¬ 
ing on the above subject, and more particularly 
one from Mr. Beard, January 12th, whose ex¬ 
perience is totally at variance with my own, I 
have taken the liberty of troubling you, hoping 
my experience may be of use to tome of your 
readers, who complain of failures. Your corres¬ 
pondent, Mr. Beard, does not state the size of his 
aquarium, nor how long he has had it. But 
judging from Ms own words—“ I filled it with 
water and set it aside,” etc., it must be a very 
small affair, and what might answer in that ease 
would not for a larger one, well stocked with 
fish. 

About two years ago I was fortunate enough 
to come into possession of a large shade inverted 
on a wooden stand, so determined to settle by 
personal observation the questions that were 
being agitated in Gardening at that time, as to 
whether snails were really beneficial in aqnaria 
or, otherwise. One correspondent btrongly ad¬ 
vocated their use. Another declared that they 
were not only of no use, but that they actually 
destroyed the plants. As I had no snails, and 
was strongly impressed by the arguments against 
them, I tried to do without them. I first put in 
several qnarts of silver sand and gravel washed 
as clean as possible, and planted ten good plants 
of Vallisneria spiralis, then eight gallons of 
water, and allowed it to stand ten days for the 
plants to root a little. 

I then bought six fish of various kinds and 
different sizes; two of the smallest died in less 
than a fortnight, two of the others I have living 
yet, and one I accidentally killed a month ago. 
In about two months from planting and filling 
my aquarium, theglass was covered with vegeta¬ 
tion and the water so muddy that it was impos¬ 
sible to see what was in it, and on emptying it 
I found the plants were covered with slime, and 
appeared to be dying off. Thinking that the 
silver sand might have something to do with it, 
I carefully washed it all out of the gravel, and 
used for other purposes and tried again. This 
ended exactly as my first attempt had done, and 
a third did not mend matters. A fourth trial 
seemed likely to be a success ; but having read 
ia Gardening how a correspondent managed 
to keep his clean by means of a cloth on the 
end of a stick, I tried it, and it resulted in a 
mixture like dirty green paint. I was now 
thoroughly tired of filling and emptying, so I 
allowed it to remain in that condition for some 
time, and it would have been in the same state 
now, had not a friend why calle 1 in remarked 


that I had a fine aquarium, but neglected it 
sadly. I told him my troubles, and he seemed 
surprised to manage an aquarium without 
snails and mussels. Acting on bis advice, I 
bonght a dozen snails and mussels, and since 
that time I have had a maximum of pleasnre 
with a minimum of labour. I have to clean it 
ont abont twice a year, and I have never heard 
of one yet that did not require clear sing sfcme- 
times; and I presume ) onr correspondent, 
“ E. B.,” has to perform this operation at times, 
particularly if he in creates his stock of fish. 
Will he kindly say bow long he hag tried bis 
system, and what is the size of his glass 7 

I feed my fish regularly, and they will take 
worms from my hand readily, and even allow me 
to touch them. I cleaned it out last on the 
23rd August, and it now contains nine fish 5 
inches to 7 inches in length, as many snails, 
and two large mussels, 30 plants of Vallisneria, 
and upwards of 10 gallons of water, which is as 
clear as it was on the day it was put in. The 
snails creep up and down the plants, keeping 
them perfeotly clean, and a bright, healthy 
green colour pervades the whole interior. Last 
year two or three of the plants flowered, which 
added greatly to the attractiveness of the 
aqnariom. 

I may say, in conclusion, that my aquarium 
stands in a window with southern aspect, bat is 
shaded during the hottest part of the day. 
Tench and carp have proved to be the best fish 
with me, and I have had more success with large 
than with small ones. Dace and minnows have 
a natural tendency lo leap out of the water 
during the night, and I have lost six fine fish 
since Christmas through this propensity, and 
should recommend a gauze cover to be placed 
over the aquarium at sunset. I shall be glad if 
some reader will give a list of plants suitable 
for a moderate sized aquarium, “ flowering ones 
preferred,” as I am fitting up one to cor. tain 30 
gallons of water for the reception of gold fish, 
and should like a varitly of plants. 

Manchester. WILLIAM BURTON. 


Starting an aquarium —I have lately bought an 
aquarium 4 feet long, 18 inches broad, end 18 iuches 
deep. Aa 1 have not had much experience, shall be 
glad to have any sugges.ioni on the subject.—<v Los 
stant Header. 

Fieh ponds In gardens.—Can any reader give me 
practical Information on the management of ponds in 
gardens, in which water-plants are grown, for geld fieht 
—O. H. 

Cement for aquarium.-W hat cement ia best to 
prevent an aquarium, which ia made of wood and glass, 
from leaking —W. P. 


THE HOUSEHOLD. 


To make' a good cheap vinegar.— 

Put eight gallons of clear rain-water into a tub, 
add tbree quarts of treacle, stir U.e mix¬ 
ture till well mixed, then put it into a good 
strong clean cask, shake it well two or three 
times, spread three tablespoonfuls of yeast on 
a piece of toasted bread, put it into the barrel, 
place the cask in a warm place, put a piece of 
paper over the bung hole to keep the dust out, 
let it stand for fifteen days; then take a sheet 
of brown paper and smear it well with treacle, 
tear it into narrow strips and put it into the cask; 
this is the “ mother” or life of the vinegar ; ready 
in about six months ; the longer it is kept the 
more acid it gets.— G. M. Stratton, Worcetter. 

Vinegar for pickling.— Pat ! I 1 .- of 
coarsest brown sngar to 1 gal. of cold .resb 
water, mix well, then put a little yeast on to a 
piece of toast, and lay on the liquid ; stir well 
for a week, then cover the vessel with brown 
paper, in which holes have been made with a 
pin, keep in a warm place, and in about four 
months' time you will have good strong vinegar. 
—H. 

Eggs milky.— Tbe white of a new-laid egg 
is always milky, which is considered the beauty 
of it. The secret of boiling an egg well is to 
have enough of water to cover it, and it must 
be quite boiling before the egg is put into it. 
Place the egg in a spoon, and do not let it go 
till it is safely landed at the bottom of the 
saucepan, as a cracked egg is very disagreeable. 
A new-laid egg takes five minutes ;' a stale on. 
four.—A. N. 

Tainted meat.—Will anyone be good enough to tell 
me whether a weak solution of Condy's fluid may be 
eafely used as a wash for meat which might be a little 
taiuted or muaty ?— M. J. 


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